Messages in AquaticLife group. Page 1 of 1.

Group: AquaticLife Message: 20234 From: Karen Millett Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20235 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: 125 gal. Aquarium for sale Little Rock, AR
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20236 From: Al Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Live Plants Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20237 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20238 From: Karen M Smith Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20239 From: Teresa Ayers Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20240 From: Chad Plum Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20241 From: Teresa Ayers Date: 1/2/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20242 From: Tiffany Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: snail looks like its dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20243 From: Tiffany Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20244 From: Esther Souverein Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20245 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20246 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20247 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: snail looks like its dying..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20248 From: jeanie Date: 1/4/2007
Subject: new to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20249 From: Al Date: 1/4/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20250 From: dcasey Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: New to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20251 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: New member =O)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20252 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: new to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20253 From: big_mama_kab Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Hello, I just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20254 From: big_mama_kab Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20255 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20256 From: Melissa Laing Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20257 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20258 From: Rich Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I just joined
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20259 From: ahorseofcourse66 Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20260 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20261 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20262 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20263 From: callie143 Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20264 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20265 From: ahorseofcourse66 Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20266 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20267 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20268 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20269 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20270 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20271 From: Ash Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20272 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20273 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20274 From: Chad Plum Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20275 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20276 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20277 From: fyre_thetoymaker Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: New to the group wanted to do an intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20278 From: habskahuna Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20279 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20280 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20281 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20282 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20283 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20284 From: fyre_thetoymaker Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20285 From: callie143 Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20286 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20287 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20288 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20289 From: habskahuna Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20290 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20291 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20292 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20293 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20294 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20295 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20296 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20297 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20298 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20299 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20300 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20301 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20302 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20303 From: ronno971 Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Ordering fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20304 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20305 From: Wendie Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20306 From: habskahuna Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20307 From: missheidismom Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20308 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20309 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: New Member Introduction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20310 From: Joseph Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20311 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20312 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20313 From: figueroa_sean Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20314 From: Karen Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20317 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20318 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20319 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20320 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20321 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20322 From: missheidismom Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20323 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20324 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20325 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20326 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20327 From: callie143 Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20328 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20329 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20330 From: callie143 Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20331 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20332 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20333 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20334 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20335 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20336 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20337 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20338 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: New to Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20339 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20340 From: Joe Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20341 From: Joe Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20342 From: jeanie stone Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20343 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20344 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20345 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20346 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20347 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20348 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20349 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Question please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20350 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20351 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Fish 'n Flush Toilet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20352 From: joe t Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20353 From: Karen Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish 'n Flush Toilet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20354 From: missheidismom Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20355 From: Izabela Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20358 From: Bharath Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20359 From: Will Griffin Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Cycling Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20360 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cycling Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20361 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Perfect water paremeters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20363 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Parrot Cichlid Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20364 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20365 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20366 From: Joe Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cycling Tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20368 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20369 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20370 From: cmcferin Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20371 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20372 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20373 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20374 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20375 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20376 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20378 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Alien Alert: Shrimpy invader raises big concerns: Science News Onli
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20379 From: Chris Mcfearin Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20380 From: fishing_reich Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20381 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20382 From: snerticus Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Water quality: wells and tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Water quality: wells and tap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20384 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20385 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20386 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20387 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20388 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20389 From: Carol Harrell Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20390 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20391 From: Julie Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20392 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20393 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20394 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20395 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20396 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20397 From: jane parry Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20398 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20399 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20400 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20401 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Freshwater algae - interesting type
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20402 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20403 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20405 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20406 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20407 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20408 From: Carol Harrell Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20409 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20410 From: Joe Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20411 From: jfazio Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Evaporation/diatom filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20412 From: Joe Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20413 From: iowakoi Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Koi pond and water garden design
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20414 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Air pump timing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20415 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20416 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20417 From: jules27au Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Silver Dollar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20418 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20419 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Betta Fish Food.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20420 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: snails for cold water?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20421 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20422 From: Nicole Tan Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20423 From: Walden Nida Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20424 From: Nicole Tan Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20425 From: Julie Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20426 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20427 From: wildkids3@yahoo.com Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20428 From: iowakoi Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: The best Food for bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20429 From: Cory Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Update on Snails in Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20430 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20431 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20432 From: figueroa_sean Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20433 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20434 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20435 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20436 From: Joe Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20437 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20438 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20439 From: Kevin Batey Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20440 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20441 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20442 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20443 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] I lost both tanks due to power outage caus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20444 From: guppielover Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: help with guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20445 From: aclaar877 Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Air pump timing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20446 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Update on Snails in Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20448 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20449 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20450 From: habskahuna Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Update on Snails in Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20451 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20452 From: jett07002 Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20453 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20454 From: NHSNOLA Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20455 From: Bharath Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20456 From: Wendie Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20457 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20458 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20459 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20460 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20461 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20462 From: Aka Jacky Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20463 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20464 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20465 From: untamedgame Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Jack Dempseys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20466 From: jjudy1957 Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20467 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20468 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20469 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20470 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20471 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20472 From: Julie Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Pumps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20473 From: Ash Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20474 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pumps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20475 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20476 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20477 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20478 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20480 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20481 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20482 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20483 From: gail hopkins Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Pumps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20484 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20485 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Research Channel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20487 From: snerticus Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20488 From: imawaterholic Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: goose problem - help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20489 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Crossocheilus latius (was ~ Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae e
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20490 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20491 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: goose problem - help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20492 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20493 From: tom Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: fish disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20494 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: fish disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20495 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20496 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20497 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Algae Eating Cyprinids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20498 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: white stuff growing on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20499 From: joe t Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20500 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Crossocheilus latius (was ~ Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae e
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20501 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Algae Eating Cyprinids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20502 From: the_penguin01748 Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20503 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20504 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20505 From: idamanman Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20507 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20508 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20509 From: ssnutrino2 Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20510 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20512 From: quietari Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Freshwater plants...maybe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20513 From: Aaron Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater plants...maybe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20514 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20515 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20516 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20517 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20518 From: Kevin Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20519 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20520 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20521 From: trtlehead13 Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Looking for anyone who knows about native/non-native species of fis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20522 From: tom Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20523 From: Lee Bean Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20524 From: quietari Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20525 From: snerticus Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20526 From: quietari Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Air pump timing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20527 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater plants...maybe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20531 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: 3rd time seeing the link
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20532 From: wildkids3@yahoo.com Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Tangs....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20533 From: hollyberrys Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: New to Board Hello everyone
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20534 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20535 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20536 From: a fried Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20537 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20538 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20539 From: hollyberrys Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20540 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20541 From: Kevin Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20542 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20543 From: jett07002 Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20544 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20545 From: Kevin Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20546 From: kelly renee roberts Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: hi checked out all the photo albums!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20547 From: steve Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20548 From: Aaron Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Special Notice ~ email backlog
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20549 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20550 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20551 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20552 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20553 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20554 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20555 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a questi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20556 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20557 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20558 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20559 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a que
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20560 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20561 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20562 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20563 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20564 From: Lisa Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20565 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: My sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20566 From: Lisa Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Photo regarding sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20567 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20568 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20569 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a que
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20570 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20571 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20572 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20573 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20574 From: steve Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20575 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20576 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20577 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20578 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20579 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20580 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20581 From: alive_in_indy Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: New
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20582 From: dmctjc Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Biowheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20583 From: mikewarr2 Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20584 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Hi Mike Re: Re: My sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20585 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20586 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20587 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20588 From: Wendie Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20589 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Wendie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20590 From: Aaron Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: picture format (JPEGs only).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20591 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20592 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20593 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20594 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20595 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20596 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20597 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20598 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20599 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Betta William
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20600 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Betta William
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20601 From: Lisa Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20602 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20603 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Betta William
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20604 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20605 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20606 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20607 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20608 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20609 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20610 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20611 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20612 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20613 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20614 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20615 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20616 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20617 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20618 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20619 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Hi Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20620 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20621 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20622 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20623 From: AquaticLife Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Are you on the Map?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20624 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20625 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20626 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20627 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: thanks Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20628 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20629 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20630 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20631 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20632 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20633 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20634 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20635 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20636 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20637 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Betta Care
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20638 From: quietari Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20639 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20640 From: joe t Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: LFS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20641 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: More questions. Please help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20642 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] thanks Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20643 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: If this works...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20644 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: My tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20645 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20646 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20647 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20648 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20649 From: steve Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20650 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20651 From: Kherveen Shibchurn Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. More Answers for Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20652 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20653 From: chess_boxin7 Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Two 55 Gallon Tanks for sale in Chicago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20654 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20655 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Two 55 Gallon Tanks for sale in Chicago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20656 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20657 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Thankyou Kherveen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20658 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20659 From: Pickles Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20660 From: Bob Straley Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Info on best freshawater setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20661 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20663 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Info on best freshawater setup
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20665 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20666 From: steve Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: freshwater fish problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20667 From: Loki Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20668 From: Loki Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20669 From: xenopuszoo Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Streptomycin Anyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20670 From: Lisa Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20671 From: Lisa Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20672 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20673 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: fry tank setup and spong filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20674 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20675 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20676 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20677 From: quietari Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Freshwater Flounder question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20678 From: jfazio Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20679 From: quietari Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20680 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater Flounder question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20681 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20682 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20683 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20684 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20685 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20686 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20687 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20688 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20689 From: steve Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20690 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20691 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20692 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20693 From: Julie Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20694 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20695 From: steve Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20696 From: Julie Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20697 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20698 From: Pickles Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Marine Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20699 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Marine Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20700 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20701 From: steve Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20702 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20703 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20704 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20705 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20706 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20707 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20708 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20709 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20710 From: Pickles Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: more fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20711 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: odd happenings in tanks..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20712 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20713 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: odd happenings in tanks..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20714 From: Kevin Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20715 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20716 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20717 From: steve Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: cool
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20718 From: steve Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: cool
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20719 From: mellowtipi Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Will Koi eat guppies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20720 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Will Koi eat guppies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20721 From: AquaticLife Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: New poll for AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20722 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/6/2007
Subject: My Tanks / + suggestions for my new 2?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20723 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/6/2007
Subject: From Canopy to Coral Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20724 From: jfazio Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20725 From: jfazio Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: My quarantined gouramis/pet shops/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20726 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20727 From: arindamk Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: First Saltwater Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20728 From: Julie Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: From Canopy to Coral Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20729 From: quietari Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20730 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: From Canopy to Coral Reef
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20731 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: My quarantined gouramis/pet shops/fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20732 From: Shannon Nelson Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20733 From: Aaron Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20734 From: jfazio Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20735 From: milind korday Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20736 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20737 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20738 From: steve Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20739 From: quietari Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20740 From: salth2odunce Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20741 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Automatic Fish Feeder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20742 From: shanbar6 Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Easy Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20743 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20744 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20745 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20746 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20747 From: mkorday Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: do salvini and convict chichlids will stay together as a community
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20748 From: milind korday Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: chichlids food for convict/salvini
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20749 From: Rob" Fortwaynefish" Renfro Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] chichlids food for  convict/salvini
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20750 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20751 From: Andreas Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20752 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20753 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20754 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20755 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20756 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20757 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20758 From: steve Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20759 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20760 From: Rob" Fortwaynefish" Renfro Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20761 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20762 From: Karen Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20763 From: tommy thompson Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20764 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20765 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20766 From: Kevin Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20767 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Hardware Play Sand - Safe For Aquarium? River Rocks from Hardware S
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20768 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20769 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20770 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20771 From: sbmack7 Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20772 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20773 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: clown loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20774 From: angel Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware Play Sand - Safe For Aquarium? River Rocks from Hardwa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20775 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20776 From: steve Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20777 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20778 From: snerticus Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20779 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20780 From: mikewarr2 Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Lighting needs for non-planted aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20781 From: cody adams Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20782 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20783 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20784 From: Leslie Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Saltwater group (& hi!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20785 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20786 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting needs for non-planted aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20787 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20788 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20789 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20790 From: steve Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20791 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20792 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20793 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20794 From: snerticus Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Axolotl?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20795 From: snerticus Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20796 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20797 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20798 From: cody adams Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20799 From: sbmack7 Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20800 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20801 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20802 From: Izabela Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20803 From: Chad Plum Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20804 From: AquaticLife Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Axolotl?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20805 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20806 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20807 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20808 From: mandyhorsley_2000 Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Pictures from tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20809 From: Izabela Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Fish "slapping" water surface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20810 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20811 From: quietari Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20812 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20813 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20814 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20815 From: Chad Plum Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20816 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20817 From: chris topher Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20818 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20819 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20820 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Saltwater group (& hi!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20821 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20822 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20823 From: hank voss Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20824 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20825 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20826 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: FW: TFSRI "Deuces Wild" Annual Fish Auction, Sunday March 11th
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20828 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20829 From: hank voss Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20830 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20831 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20832 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20833 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20834 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20835 From: Karen M Smith Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20836 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20837 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20838 From: Patti M Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Newbie with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20839 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20840 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20841 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20842 From: Patti M. Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20843 From: hank voss Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20844 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20845 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20846 From: Patti M. Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20847 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20848 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20849 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20850 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20851 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20852 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20853 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20854 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20855 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20856 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20857 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20858 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20859 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20860 From: Sarah Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20861 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20862 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20863 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20864 From: Izabela Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20865 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20866 From: Izabela Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20867 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20868 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20869 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20870 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20871 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's Crayfish comme
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20872 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20873 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's Crayfish c
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20874 From: Kevin Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Diagnosis Help - Dark Grey spots-
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20875 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:~ Mike's Crayfish comment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20876 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20877 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20878 From: Wendie Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20879 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20880 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20881 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20882 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20883 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20884 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20885 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20886 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20887 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Angel Plague WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20888 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Looking for fish now!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20889 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20890 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Answers for newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20891 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20892 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20893 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20895 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20896 From: Kevin Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20897 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20898 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20899 From: Aaron Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Aquapet is Going Out-of-Business
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20900 From: micheal03us Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: my neons are weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20901 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: (tank volume calculator) Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20902 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Here is a very good guide for beginners & others interested.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20903 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20904 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20905 From: joe t Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20906 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20907 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20908 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20909 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20910 From: Leonard Vasbinder Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20911 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20912 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: OT - Just a plea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20913 From: Patti M. Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20914 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20915 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20916 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20917 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20918 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20919 From: Rich Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: (tank volume calculator) Newbie with another question!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20920 From: steve Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20921 From: steve Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20922 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20923 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20924 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20925 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20926 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20927 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20928 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 40
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20930 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20931 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20932 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20933 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20934 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20935 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20936 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Guide.net Thanks Wendy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20937 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20938 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20939 From: Izabela Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: OT - Just a plea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20940 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20941 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 40
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20942 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20943 From: Hanson Choa Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: how to breed a black ghost fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20944 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Emperor 400
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20945 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20946 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20947 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20948 From: mandyhorsley_2000 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: New pics
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20949 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20950 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20951 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20952 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: how to breed a black ghost fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20953 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20954 From: snerticus Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: OT - Just a plea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20955 From: hank voss Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20956 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20957 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......(LFS & Online discussion) Decided Emperor 400 Bio-
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20958 From: jett07002 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20959 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: tropical (ich?) treatment
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20960 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20961 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: yahoo groups down time
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20962 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20963 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20964 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20965 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: yahoo groups down time
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20966 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20967 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20968 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20969 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20970 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20971 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20972 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20973 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20974 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20975 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20976 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......choices of LFS over online stores
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20977 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: who has yahoo messanger here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20978 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20979 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20980 From: steve Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20981 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20982 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20983 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20984 From: Patty Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20985 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20986 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: (Bettas) Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20987 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20988 From: steve Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20989 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish information for Traci, et al (was Angel fish spawned a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20990 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20991 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20992 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: (Bettas) Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20993 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20994 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20995 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20996 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20997 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20998 From: Aaron Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: LFS vs Online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20999 From: Aaron Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: LFS Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21000 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21001 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21002 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21003 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Quarantine tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21004 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21005 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21006 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21007 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21008 From: Jason Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21009 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Tips on taking care of your tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21010 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21011 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21012 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Dale and Graham are stars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21013 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21014 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21015 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21016 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21017 From: steve Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21018 From: steve Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Arowana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21019 From: Jason Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21020 From: Pickles Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Arowana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21021 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21022 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21023 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21024 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21025 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21026 From: freidafish Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: can tx of ich cause flex?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21027 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21028 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: can tx of ich cause flex?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21029 From: joe t Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: can tx of ich cause flex?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21030 From: Farscape Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21031 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: 1977 Dynaflo Power Filter 150
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21032 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21033 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21034 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21035 From: hank voss Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: 1977 Dynaflo Power Filter 150
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21036 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21038 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21041 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21042 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21044 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21045 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21046 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21047 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21050 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21051 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21053 From: freidafish Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: ich be gone
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21054 From: Kevin Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: White film on my driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21055 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21056 From: VALENTINA Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21057 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21058 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21059 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21060 From: Cicak Man Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21061 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21062 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21063 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21064 From: Valentina Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21065 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21066 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21067 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21068 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21069 From: Wendie Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21070 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21071 From: Patti M Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21072 From: Patti M. Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Aquarium Sizes Tables
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21073 From: Jessica Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21074 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21075 From: whjordan83 Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Planted Aquarium Filtration
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21076 From: Aaron Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Are you on the Map?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21077 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Aquarium Filtration
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21078 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Are you on the Map?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21079 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21080 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21081 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21082 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21083 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21084 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21085 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21086 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21087 From: dansant5 Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21088 From: quietari Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Aquarium Filtration
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21089 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21090 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21091 From: joe t Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: about tanks, etc.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21092 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21093 From: Jason Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21094 From: dansant5 Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21095 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21096 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Angelfish Fighting????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21097 From: Cory Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21098 From: steve Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21099 From: Jason Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21100 From: AquaticElf Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21101 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21102 From: Birkenhead Blue Bus Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Getting Started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21103 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21104 From: mantid666@yahoo.com Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Discovery Channel - Message from a friend!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21105 From: Wendie Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21106 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21107 From: steve Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21108 From: rick linboom Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21109 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started (now OT - Joke)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21110 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started (now OT - Joke)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21111 From: steve Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21112 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Aquarium Videos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21113 From: Rich Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Videos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21114 From: Patti M Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21115 From: Patti M Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21116 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21117 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21118 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21119 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21120 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: A simpler way to get started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21121 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21122 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21123 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21124 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21125 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21126 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21127 From: AquaticElf Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21128 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21129 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21130 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21131 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21132 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Noisy Emperor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21133 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21134 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21135 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21136 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21137 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21138 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21139 From: steve Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21140 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21141 From: dylan aldred Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21142 From: whjordan83 Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Aquarium Software
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21143 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21144 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21145 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: hikari products link
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21146 From: rsv2007mkv varanai Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21147 From: Nimish Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21148 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21149 From: steve Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: hikari products link
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21150 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21151 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21152 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21153 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21154 From: Ken Keegler Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21155 From: deborahgd14 Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Angelfish Fighting????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21156 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21157 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21159 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21160 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Angelfish Fighting????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21161 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21162 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21163 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21164 From: Patti M. Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21165 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21166 From: Pickles Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21167 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21168 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21169 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21170 From: Pickles Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21171 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21172 From: Patti M. Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21173 From: Pickles Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Some Groups not receiving email messages
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21174 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21175 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21177 From: Aaron Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Movies & TV shows w/ Aquariums (New Blog)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21178 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21179 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21180 From: Martin VanderWal Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21181 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21183 From: Pickles Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21184 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Cori's...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21185 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21186 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21187 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21188 From: Wilma Duncan Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21189 From: larry Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: just got cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21190 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21191 From: dylan aldred Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21193 From: harryfisherman Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Breeding questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21194 From: armitaget Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Also - strange helping behaviour...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21195 From: armitaget Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21196 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21198 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21199 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21200 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21201 From: joe t Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21202 From: armitaget Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21203 From: Terri Armitage Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21204 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21205 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21206 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21207 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Temperature Conversion Chart
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21208 From: armitaget Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21209 From: Peaches Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21210 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21211 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21212 From: armitaget Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21213 From: Patti M. Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: I got guppies! LOL!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21214 From: Angsuman Chatterjee Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21215 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21216 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21218 From: Kevin Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Is my tank going to break?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21219 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21220 From: ijustwannalearn83 Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Starting my first ever salt water tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21221 From: Peaches Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21222 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21223 From: Kevin Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21224 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Some new updates to the photography museum...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21225 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21226 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Starting my first ever salt water tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21227 From: joe t Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21228 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Fish in the News
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21229 From: armitaget Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21230 From: snerticus Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Fish on the homepage?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21231 From: snerticus Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21232 From: joe t Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21233 From: dansant5 Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: lighting - warm color
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21234 From: Kevin Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: lighting - warm color
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21235 From: Jessica Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21236 From: j.langrish Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Contents of marine tank avaliable
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21237 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21238 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21239 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21240 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21241 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21242 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21243 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Having trouble cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21244 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: someone tell me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21245 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21246 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21247 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21248 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21249 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21250 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21251 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21252 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21253 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21254 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21255 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21256 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21257 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21258 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Having trouble cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21259 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21260 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21261 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21262 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21263 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21264 From: unclesticknick Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Cleaning River Sand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21265 From: dansant5 Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Yamato Green, was Re: lighting - warm color
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21266 From: dansant5 Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: lighting - warm color
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21267 From: Jessica Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21268 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Nebie with Lionfish and Clowns
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21269 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Nebie with Lionfish and Clowns
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21270 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21271 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21272 From: Karen Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21273 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21274 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21275 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21276 From: Rich Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21277 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21278 From: Karen Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21279 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21280 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21283 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21284 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21287 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21288 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Amazon sword plant dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21289 From: quietari Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21290 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21291 From: schroedel2003 Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: glofish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21292 From: harry perry Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21293 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Hydra!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21294 From: Pickles Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Hydra!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21295 From: schroedel2003 Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21296 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21297 From: Patti M. Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21299 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Ich update...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21300 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ich update...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21301 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21302 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21303 From: Eileen Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Hello--KY--I'm new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21304 From: Elaine Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hello--KY--I'm new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21305 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ich update...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21306 From: Rich Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hello--KY--I'm new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21307 From: rjtroon Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21308 From: Patti M. Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Nemo Update
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21309 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21310 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21311 From: Richard Troon Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21312 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21313 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21314 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21315 From: quietari Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21316 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21317 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21318 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21319 From: Richard Troon Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21320 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21321 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21322 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21323 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21324 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21325 From: Pickles Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21326 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21327 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: New fish: Flower Horn Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21328 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21329 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21330 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21331 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21332 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21333 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: OT Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21334 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: It's almost Spring
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21335 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21336 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21337 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21338 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21339 From: joe t Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21340 From: miss_america_ohio Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21341 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21342 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21343 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21344 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21345 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21346 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21347 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21348 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21349 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21350 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21351 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21353 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21354 From: gorsford Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21355 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21357 From: gorsford Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21359 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21360 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21361 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21362 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21363 From: Joseph Reid Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: stunt growth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21364 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Shirley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21366 From: David Kershaw Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21367 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21368 From: miss_america_ohio Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21369 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Breed mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21371 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Breed mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21372 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21373 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Breed mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21374 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21375 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21376 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21377 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21378 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21379 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21380 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21381 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21382 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21383 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21384 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21385 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21386 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21387 From: Pickles Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21388 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Help!! My Roomate's molly is acting weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21389 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help!! My Roomate's molly is acting weird
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21390 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21391 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21392 From: Alex See Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21393 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21394 From: micheal03us Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: my white cloud is acting strange
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21395 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21396 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21397 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21398 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21399 From: Don Young Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21400 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21401 From: Don Young Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21402 From: gorsford Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: question: buying freshwater plants online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21403 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: YAY! LFS Job!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21404 From: glaucus25 Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21405 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: YAY! LFS Job!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21406 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21407 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish (NOW U.S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21408 From: Cina Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21409 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21410 From: Memrie Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: HI!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21411 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21412 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: HI!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21413 From: dansant5 Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21414 From: dansant5 Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21415 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21416 From: Debbie Swick Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: YAY! LFS Job!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21417 From: John Hawley Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Petition from a hobbyist in Southern California
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21418 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21419 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21420 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21421 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: HI!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21422 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21423 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21424 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21425 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21426 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21427 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21428 From: Don Young Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21429 From: Don Young Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21430 From: jennahook Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: PLEASE HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21431 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP/Try this
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21432 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21433 From: coryswalter Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Betta Buddies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21434 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21435 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Buddies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21436 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: feeding question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21437 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21438 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21439 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21440 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Petition from a hobbyist in Southern California
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21441 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21442 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21443 From: Aaron Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21444 From: Jenny & Wayne Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21445 From: Stefanie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Need Help with Reef Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21446 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21447 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21448 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21449 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Need Help with Reef Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21450 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: feeding question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21451 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Buddies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21452 From: Kevin Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Which new tank to buy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21453 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Which new tank to buy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21454 From: IceHockeyMom Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: NEW email address
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21455 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21456 From: Karen Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21457 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21458 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21459 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21460 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Which new tank to buy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21461 From: John Hawley Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: The Jr Challenge, support the AKCA, KOIUSA, and our hobby....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21462 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21463 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21464 From: Michelle Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: something wrong with my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21465 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21466 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21467 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21468 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where I co
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21469 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21470 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21471 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21472 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21473 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21474 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21475 From: nader Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Lion fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21476 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21477 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: something wrong with my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21478 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21480 From: Chris Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Please can some one tell me what type of plant this is?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21481 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Lion fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21482 From: Memrie Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21483 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21484 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21485 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21486 From: iowakoi Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Spring pond start up tips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21487 From: Memrie Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21488 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21489 From: Karen Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21490 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21491 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21492 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21493 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21494 From: gorsford Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21495 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21496 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21497 From: Alex See Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21498 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21499 From: emadore57 Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21500 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21501 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21502 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21503 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21504 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21505 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21506 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21507 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Where is everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21508 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21509 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21510 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21511 From: jane parry Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21512 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21513 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21514 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21515 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21516 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21517 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21518 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21519 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21520 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21521 From: Alex See Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21522 From: dylan aldred Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21523 From: snerticus Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick - Marine, though
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21524 From: Memrie Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21525 From: Judith Downing Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Lucy Survived!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21526 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21527 From: jane parry Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21528 From: susanne_mischelle Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: compatability question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21529 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: compatability question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21530 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: compatability question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21531 From: Memrie Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21532 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21533 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/26/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21534 From: Memrie Date: 3/26/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21536 From: azariamum1 Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost knif
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21538 From: whjordan83 Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21540 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21541 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21542 From: Memrie Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Holding onto fry?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21543 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also gh...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21547 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21549 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21559 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21560 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21561 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21562 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21563 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21564 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21565 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21566 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21567 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21568 From: azariamum1 Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21569 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21570 From: gorsford Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Any one in San Diego?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21571 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21572 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21573 From: milind korday Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21574 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21575 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21576 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21577 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?/ elephant nose....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21578 From: Barb Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21579 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Eclipse Catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21581 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Spring in the pond.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21582 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21583 From: Will Griffin Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: New Tropical Fish Breeders Web Sites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21584 From: Rich Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21585 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21586 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21587 From: Rick Rattie Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?/ elephant nose....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21588 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21589 From: Judith Downing Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Spring in the pond.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21590 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21591 From: quietari Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Sea Co2 Reactor 500
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21592 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21593 From: Barb Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21594 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21595 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21596 From: Wendie Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21597 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21598 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21599 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21600 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21601 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21602 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21603 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21604 From: Roxanne Brown Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21605 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21606 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21607 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21608 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21609 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21610 From: Aaron Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Claws
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21611 From: Aaron Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Claw Original Post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21612 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21613 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21614 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21616 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21617 From: Snerticus, but you can call me Snert Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Aquariums - MORE than just for keeping aquatic critters!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21618 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21619 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21620 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21622 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21623 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21624 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21625 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21626 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Red Claws
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21627 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21628 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21629 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21630 From: Kevin Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21631 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21632 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Raising PH
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21633 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21634 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21635 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21636 From: Patti M Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Adding 2nd fish to FOWLR tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21638 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21639 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21640 From: Memrie Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21641 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21642 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21643 From: Barb Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21644 From: Patti M. Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Coralife Contact Info
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21645 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21646 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21647 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21648 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21649 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21650 From: Cina Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21651 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21652 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21653 From: ANIL CHHIBBA Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21655 From: Nimish Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21656 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21657 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21658 From: Alex See Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21659 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Anyone has been SDTFS San Diego Tropical Fish Society's meeting??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21660 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: How long does it take for mollies to be mature?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21661 From: Memrie Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: How long does it take for mollies to be mature?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21662 From: Memrie Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone has been SDTFS San Diego Tropical Fish Society's meeting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21663 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21665 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21666 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21667 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21668 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21669 From: Kurt Johnston Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: ACLC Anniversary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21670 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21671 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21672 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21673 From: Paul Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Need advice on a new tank mate for an oscar tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21674 From: Don Young Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Question on New Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21675 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21676 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Need advice on a new tank mate for an oscar tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21677 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21678 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21679 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21680 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question on New Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21681 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question on New Fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21682 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21683 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21684 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21685 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21686 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21687 From: Memrie Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: New fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21688 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21689 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21690 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21691 From: Aaron Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21692 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21693 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21694 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21695 From: Cina Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21696 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21697 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21698 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21699 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21700 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21701 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: trying to change my whole name from coming up
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21702 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21703 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21704 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: molting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21705 From: Memrie Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21706 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: moderators
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21707 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21708 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21709 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: how do you get members for a new group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21710 From: Aaron Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: New Group Colors and Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21711 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: New Group Colors and Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21712 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21713 From: harry perry Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C/It works
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21714 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C/It works
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21715 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: New Group Colors and Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21716 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21717 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: the new picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21718 From: Kevin Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Anyone Near NYC have Shrimp for sale?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21719 From: Snerticus, but you can call me Snert Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21720 From: Memrie Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21721 From: EAR Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21722 From: Pickles Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21723 From: gorsford Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: I've got my molly babies !!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21724 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21725 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21726 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21727 From: EAR Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21728 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21729 From: quietari Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone Near NYC have Shrimp for sale?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21730 From: DB1RDMAN@WMCONNECT.COM Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1805
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21731 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21732 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21733 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21734 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21735 From: Wendie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21736 From: jett07002 Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Digest Numbers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21737 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Numbers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21738 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21739 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21740 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21741 From: iheartcine Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: New Pond Owner Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21742 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: AZ Gardens and Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21743 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21744 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21745 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21746 From: Kevin Batey Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21747 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21748 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21749 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21750 From: tisdiz Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21751 From: Dawana Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21752 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21753 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21754 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21755 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: need advice , was thinking of breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21756 From: iheartcine Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21757 From: Chad Plum Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: need advice , was thinking of breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21758 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21759 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: need advice , was thinking of breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21761 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21762 From: larry Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: my poor corys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21763 From: mkorday Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: my poor corys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21764 From: Memrie Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21765 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21766 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21767 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21768 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21769 From: joe t Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21770 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21771 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21772 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21773 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21774 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21775 From: iowakoi Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Dividing plants for Spring
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21776 From: iowakoi Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: What to do if your plants arrive in the cold
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21777 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21778 From: David Kershaw Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21779 From: Chad Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: coco worm not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21780 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21781 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21782 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21783 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21784 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21785 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21786 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21787 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21788 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 4/15/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21789 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/15/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21790 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21791 From: quietari Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Striped Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21792 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21793 From: Brian W Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21794 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 4/17/2007
Subject: Re: coco worm not sure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21795 From: quietari Date: 4/17/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21796 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Black algae problem answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21797 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21798 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21799 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21800 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21801 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21802 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21803 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21804 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21805 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21806 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21807 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21808 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21809 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21810 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21811 From: DAN Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21812 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21813 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21814 From: iowakoi Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Ever wondered how much energy your pump is using?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21815 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21816 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21817 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21818 From: Memrie Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21819 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21820 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21821 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: The pic of the front page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21822 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21823 From: Alex See Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21825 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21826 From: Aaron Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: The pic of the front page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Microscope Imaging Station
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21828 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21829 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21830 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21831 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21832 From: angel Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21833 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21834 From: Memrie Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21835 From: Memrie Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21836 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21837 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21838 From: EAR Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21839 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21840 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21841 From: Mr I'm So Cool Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21842 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21843 From: akdsl1 Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21844 From: harry perry Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon/Filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21845 From: Memrie Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: A difficult birth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21846 From: EAR Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: A difficult birth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21847 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21848 From: Linda Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Koi Pond Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21849 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21850 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: The pic of the front page
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21851 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21852 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: lenny on yahoo messenger i cant my other email to come up so
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21853 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21854 From: Linda Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21855 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21856 From: Ash Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21857 From: ronno971 Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21858 From: Memrie Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Any clue?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21859 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21860 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21861 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21862 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21863 From: Subeer (Josh) Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Hi everyone..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21864 From: susan Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Hello, I am new to the group, Just wanted to say Hi :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21865 From: susan Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Q: about blood parrots, any experts here?!!!! Susan/Michigan-USA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21866 From: quietari Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Hi everyone..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21867 From: quietari Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21868 From: Roxanne Brown Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Parrot's Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21869 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21870 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21871 From: bmt1brain Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: butterfly koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21872 From: Aaron Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21873 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21874 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: butterfly koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21875 From: jules27au Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Cat Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21876 From: DAN Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Substrate for a planted aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21877 From: Chad Plum Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: butterfly koi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21878 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21879 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21880 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21881 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Substrate for a planted aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21882 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21883 From: Jessica Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21884 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21885 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21886 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21887 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21888 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21889 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21890 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21891 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21892 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: lenny are you online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21893 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21894 From: Memrie Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21895 From: harry perry Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21896 From: Karen Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21897 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21898 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21899 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21900 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: I did the 50% water change
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21901 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21902 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: I do have real plants in there
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21903 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21904 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21905 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21906 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21907 From: Larry Nave Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21908 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21909 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21910 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21911 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21912 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21913 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21914 From: Julie Roughley Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21915 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21916 From: joe t Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21917 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21918 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: whats a pwc
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21919 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: New, with a few questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21920 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21921 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21922 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21923 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21924 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21925 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21926 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21927 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21928 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21929 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21930 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21931 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21932 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: I did clean the gravel on the bottom of my tank tonite
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21933 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: real plants in a new 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21935 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21936 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: whats a pwc (partial water change)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21937 From: friendtoallfish Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: cleaning a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21938 From: Kevin Batey Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a new 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21939 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21940 From: Jessica Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21941 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21942 From: Memrie Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21943 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21944 From: Jessica Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21945 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21946 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21947 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21948 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21949 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21950 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Free goldfish, needs a good home
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21951 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: MY TESTING ON MY 10 GALLON NOW
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21952 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: LENNY YOU ONLINE to answer that question about the 250 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21953 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Its a whisper 10 power filter that came with my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21954 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21955 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: cleaning a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21956 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Question: pump size for tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21957 From: harry perry Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21958 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21959 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21960 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21961 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: LENNY YOU ONLINE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21962 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21963 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21964 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Help female swordfin is dying!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21965 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: re female swordfin fish has died :-(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21966 From: c j Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Help female swordfin is dying!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21967 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21968 From: politazazn Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: I hope this isn't inappropriate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21969 From: harry perry Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer/again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21970 From: Jerry Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21971 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Powerhead Questions?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21972 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21973 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21974 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21975 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21976 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: DO YALL WANT TO GO AHEAD AND VOTE ON THE PHOTOS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21977 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: DO YALL WANT TO GO AHEAD AND VOTE ON THE PHOTOS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21978 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Powerhead Questions?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21979 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21980 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21981 From: EAR Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21982 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21983 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Powerhead Questions?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21984 From: coryswalter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21985 From: coryswalter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21986 From: bmt1brain Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Sucker fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21987 From: bmt1brain Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: feeder goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21988 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Sucker fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21989 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21990 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21991 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21992 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Sucker fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21993 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: feeder goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21994 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21995 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21996 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21997 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21998 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21999 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22000 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22001 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22002 From: harry perry Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank./Jessica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22003 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Tank repair
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22004 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22005 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22006 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22007 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: feeder goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22009 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22010 From: Jessica Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Thanks everybody for your help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22011 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22012 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22013 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22014 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22015 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22016 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22017 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22018 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22019 From: joe t Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22020 From: joe t Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22021 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22022 From: Chad Plum Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22023 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22024 From: Chad Plum Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22025 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22026 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22027 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22028 From: Peaches Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Vacumn Question (Python)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22029 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22030 From: Peaches Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22031 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22032 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22033 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22034 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22035 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22036 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22037 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22038 From: joe t Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22039 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22040 From: Kevin Batey Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22041 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22042 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22043 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22044 From: Jerry Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22045 From: Suzi Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22046 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22047 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22048 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22049 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22050 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22051 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22052 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22053 From: Jerry Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22054 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22055 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22056 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22057 From: Memrie Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22058 From: dmctjc Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22059 From: dmctjc Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Angel community tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22060 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22061 From: Jerry Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Angel community tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22062 From: DB1RDMAN@WMCONNECT.COM Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Digest Number 2020 - [SPAM] ???????????????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22063 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22064 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2020 - [SPAM] ???????????????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22065 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22066 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22067 From: Memrie Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22068 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22069 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22070 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22071 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22072 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22073 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22074 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22075 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22076 From: Jerry Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22077 From: Peaches Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22078 From: EAR Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22079 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22080 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22081 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22082 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22083 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22084 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22085 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22086 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22087 From: Peaches Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22088 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22089 From: minnesotagal866 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22090 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22091 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22092 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22093 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22094 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22095 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22096 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22097 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22098 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Angel community tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22099 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22100 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22101 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22102 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22103 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22104 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22105 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22106 From: Laurie Brown Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22107 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22108 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22109 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22111 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22112 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22113 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22114 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22115 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22116 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22117 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22118 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22119 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22120 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22121 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22122 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22123 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22124 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22125 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22126 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22127 From: Memrie Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22128 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22129 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22130 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22131 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: there is a picture of the orange algea in this folder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22132 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: there is a picture of the orange algea in this folder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22133 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22134 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the orange s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22135 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: THANKS FOR RESPONDING GERALD
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22136 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22137 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22138 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22139 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22140 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22141 From: Peaches Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis Please formgive my lateness in respondi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22142 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22143 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22144 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22145 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22146 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22147 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22148 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22149 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis Please formgive my lateness in respondi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22150 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22151 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22152 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22153 From: coryswalter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Building an aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22154 From: Laurie Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Newbie to the group!!! Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22155 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22156 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22157 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: the orange stuff in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22158 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie to the group!!! Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22159 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Yes i am going to call my water company
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22160 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22161 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22162 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22163 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22164 From: Julie Roughley Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22165 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22166 From: Rich Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22167 From: Richard Haley Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22168 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22169 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22170 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22171 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Yes i am going to call my water company
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22172 From: Wendie Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22173 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22174 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22175 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22176 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22177 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22178 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22179 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22180 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22181 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22182 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22183 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22184 From: Laurie Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Hi Mike, thanks for the response
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22185 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22186 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22187 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22188 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22189 From: Antony Dalton Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22190 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22191 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22192 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22193 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22194 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: right now the ammonia is .65
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22195 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Thank you so much Gerald and Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22196 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22198 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22199 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: right now the ammonia is .65
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22200 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22201 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22202 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22203 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Fish groups in Arkansas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22204 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22205 From: Peaches Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish groups in Arkansas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22206 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish groups in Arkansas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22207 From: rv4342 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Saltwater Equipment For Sale
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22208 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Equipment For Sale
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22209 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22210 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22211 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22212 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Questions about gravel/sand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22213 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22214 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22215 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22216 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22217 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Question: Gravel vs. Sand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22218 From: hank voss Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22219 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22220 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22221 From: hank voss Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22222 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22223 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22224 From: Rich Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22225 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22226 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22227 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22228 From: tipzandtrikz Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Background, Background, Background For profesional Photography
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22229 From: vanina120460 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: stains on aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22230 From: Laurie Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22231 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: stains on aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22232 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22233 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22234 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22235 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22236 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22237 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22238 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22239 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: real plants in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22240 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22241 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22242 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: light timers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22243 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22244 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22245 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22246 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22247 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22248 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22249 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22250 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22251 From: Laurie Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Used tank cleaning info
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22252 From: Jessica Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: What else to put in my tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22253 From: Laurie Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22254 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22255 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22256 From: cmcferin Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22257 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22258 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22259 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22260 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22261 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22262 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: What else to put in my tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22263 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22265 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22266 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22267 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22268 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22269 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22270 From: chrisrnuttall Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22271 From: chrisrnuttall Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22272 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22273 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22274 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22275 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22276 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22277 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22278 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22279 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22280 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22281 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22282 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22283 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22284 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22285 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE K
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22286 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22287 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22288 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22289 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22290 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22291 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22292 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22293 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22294 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22295 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22296 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22297 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22298 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22299 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22300 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22301 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22302 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22303 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22304 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22305 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22306 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22307 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22308 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22309 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22310 From: Wendie Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22311 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22312 From: Keri Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22313 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Melafix and Primafix (was :RE: [AquaticLife] Fungus)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22314 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22315 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22316 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22317 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22318 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22319 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22320 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22321 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22322 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22323 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22324 From: Mary Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22325 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22326 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22327 From: Wendie Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22328 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22329 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22330 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22331 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22332 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22333 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22334 From: Wendie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22335 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22336 From: Memrie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22337 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22338 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22339 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22340 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22341 From: Wendie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22342 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22343 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22344 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22345 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22346 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22347 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22348 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22349 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22350 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22351 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22352 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22353 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22354 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22355 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22356 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22358 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22359 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22360 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22361 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22362 From: harry perry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus/Try this
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22363 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22364 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22366 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22368 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22369 From: azariamum1 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: help! loss of colour in silver shark plus fish deaths
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22370 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22371 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22372 From: Wendie Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22373 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22374 From: Erica Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: betta and african dwarf frog?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22375 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22376 From: Wendie Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22377 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22378 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22379 From: Erica Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22380 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22381 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22382 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22385 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22386 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22387 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22388 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish/Bettas in jars, a dilema
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22389 From: larry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22390 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22391 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22392 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22393 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22394 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22395 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22396 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22397 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22398 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Posts, to all.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22399 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22400 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22401 From: marla Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: hi and help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22402 From: David Greensmith Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22403 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help..../crawfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22404 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Bettas, petitions, and the term "rescue"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22405 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22406 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22407 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22408 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22409 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22410 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22411 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22412 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22413 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22414 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22415 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22416 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22417 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22418 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22419 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22420 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22421 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22422 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22423 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22424 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22425 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22426 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22427 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22428 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22429 From: marla dewitt Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help..../crawfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22430 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22431 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22432 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22433 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22434 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22435 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22436 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Bio Wheel filter, and HOB in general
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22437 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22438 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22439 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22440 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22441 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22442 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22443 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22444 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22445 From: rachelfloand4 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22446 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22447 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22448 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22449 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22451 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22452 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22453 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: A question about skimmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22454 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22455 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22456 From: cichlidtanks Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22457 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: carbon or no carbon (was:How much oxygen do you need in a ten gall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22458 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22459 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22460 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22461 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: carbon or no carbon (was:How much oxygen do you need in a ten
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22462 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22463 From: Paul Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22465 From: larry thielen jr. Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22466 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22467 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22468 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22469 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22470 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22471 From: christian_girl77 Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Great macroalgae website
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22472 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22473 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: A question about skimmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22474 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22475 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22476 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Why it's important to change often the pad in a Maryland Filter (
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22477 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22478 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22479 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22480 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22481 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22482 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22483 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22484 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22485 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22486 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22487 From: ronno971 Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Maryland filter pad question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22488 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22489 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22490 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22491 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22492 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22493 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22494 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22495 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22496 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22497 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22498 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22499 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22500 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22501 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22502 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22503 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22504 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22505 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Pleco was RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22506 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco was RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22507 From: David Greensmith Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22508 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22509 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22510 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22511 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22512 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22513 From: larry Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: worried about my yellow lab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22514 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22515 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22516 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22517 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22518 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22519 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: The family is growing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22520 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22521 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22522 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22523 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22524 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22525 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my yellow lab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22526 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22527 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22528 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22529 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22530 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22531 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22532 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22533 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22534 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22535 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22536 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22537 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22538 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22539 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22540 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22541 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22542 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22543 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22544 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22545 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22546 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22547 From: larry thielen jr. Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my yellow lab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22548 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22549 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22550 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22551 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22552 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22553 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22554 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22555 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22556 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22557 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22558 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: who are the moderators in here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22559 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22560 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22561 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22562 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: LENNY WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22563 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22564 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22565 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22566 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22567 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22568 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22569 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22570 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22571 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Nation bashing or cultural slams
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22572 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: new topic, pleco foods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22573 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: new topic, pleco foods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22574 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: new topic, pleco foods
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22575 From: harry perry Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22576 From: c j Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22577 From: L Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: I thought this was suppose to be a fish GROUP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22578 From: Jessica Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Memphis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22579 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22580 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: This is so childish, come on guys!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22581 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22582 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Gerard Problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22583 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re:
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22584 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: I think mr. Thomson is making a personal afair of this,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22585 From: joe t Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22586 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22587 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22588 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22589 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22590 From: anne carrera Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: bicher
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22591 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22592 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22594 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22595 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22596 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22597 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22602 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22603 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Memphis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22604 From: c j Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22605 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22606 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: message to Raymond and Cali
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22607 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22608 From: Jessica Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22609 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: stealing email addresses Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22610 From: Aaron Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22611 From: c j Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22612 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22613 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22614 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: YA I DO THINK EVERY MESSAGE SHOULD BE MODERATED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22615 From: Aquatic Life Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22616 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Aquatic Life moderators
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22617 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Aquatic Life moderators
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22618 From: Aaron Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Have a Great Weekend!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22619 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22620 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re:
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22621 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22622 From: c j Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22623 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Lenny.....I need some help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22624 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22625 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22626 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Are goldfish hard to care for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22627 From: EAR Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22628 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22629 From: Laurie Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Guppys & Glow fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22630 From: WRZ Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: OFF TOPIC ~ Re: WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22631 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: puffer fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22632 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: I need some help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22633 From: Aaron Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: OFF TOPIC ~ Re: WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22634 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22635 From: Erica Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: African Dwarf Frog health
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22636 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: I need some help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22637 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22638 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Questions about tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Are goldfish hard to care for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22640 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22641 From: Laurie Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish/ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22643 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Are goldfish hard to care for?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22644 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish/ Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22645 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: koi & crickets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22646 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22647 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22648 From: Memrie Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22649 From: jett07002 Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22650 From: Jessica Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22651 From: Jessica Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Update on my puffer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22652 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22653 From: Salmarcus@aol.com Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22654 From: c j Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22655 From: c j Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22656 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22657 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22658 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Where can I order parrot cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22659 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22660 From: Todd Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Sick Eibli
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22661 From: Rich Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Re: Where can I order parrot cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22662 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog health
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22663 From: tammy carnevale Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22664 From: Beth Brownell Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Eibli
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22665 From: jett07002 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22666 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog health
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22667 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22668 From: codysmom2b Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: outside of tank cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22669 From: Jessica Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22670 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: ID a photo.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22671 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22672 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22673 From: codysmom2b Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22674 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22675 From: johnnydigital30 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: where can i buy fresh water shrimp and lobsters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22676 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: ID a photo.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22677 From: Jessica Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22678 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: ID a photo.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22679 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22680 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22681 From: coryswalter Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22682 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22683 From: thomaslx Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Remove Backgrounds From Photos For Best Results
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22684 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22685 From: ceriff Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: New Texas Local Web Site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22686 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22687 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22688 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22689 From: Debbie Swick Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22690 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22691 From: ashleynorthup Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22692 From: Jessica Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22693 From: livehermitcrabs Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22694 From: livehermitcrabs Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22695 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22696 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22697 From: Blue fish Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22698 From: Just ask me Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Coral Broadcast Spawning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22699 From: Just ask me Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Indonesian fisherman nets ancient fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22700 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: wanted your unwanted snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22701 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22702 From: Memrie Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: wanted your unwanted snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22704 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22705 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Used Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22706 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: hermit crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22707 From: Andrew Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: hermit crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22708 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22709 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22710 From: tammy carnevale Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: unwanted snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22711 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: wanted your unwanted snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22712 From: Sue Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22713 From: Memrie Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22714 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22715 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22716 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22717 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22718 From: T. Craig Morton Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22719 From: Wendie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22720 From: Laurie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs? Wendie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22721 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22722 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22723 From: Wendie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs? Wendie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22724 From: quietari Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22725 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22726 From: Bart Williams Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Reef Tank -MOVING SOON- HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22727 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22728 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22729 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22730 From: EAR Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22731 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22732 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22733 From: Bart Williams Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22734 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22735 From: Jessica Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: hermit crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22736 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22737 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22738 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22739 From: Just ask me Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Cannibalism in a Fish species allow individual to specialize
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22740 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22741 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22742 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22743 From: ashish63bose Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: stains on aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22744 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22745 From: Barb Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: corydora eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22746 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22747 From: Betty Lou Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22748 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22749 From: iowakoi Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: 2 frogs fighting over flies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22750 From: Betty Lou Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22751 From: boncarles Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: 50 gallon on second story?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22752 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: 50 gallon on second story?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22753 From: Memrie Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22754 From: Just ask me Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Man says he captured Loch Ness A sea monster on film
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22755 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: 50 gallon on second story?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22756 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22757 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22758 From: Pat Jellison Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22759 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22760 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22761 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22762 From: jaywaltondrawin Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Fish Shows...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22763 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re:
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22764 From: EAR Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22765 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22766 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22767 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Shows...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22768 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22769 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22770 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22771 From: MECDALE Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: WATER CHANGES?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22772 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: WATER CHANGES?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22773 From: sue Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22774 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22775 From: Betty Lou Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: my new clown loach (for snails)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22776 From: c j Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: my new clown loach (for snails)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: WATER CHANGES?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22778 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22779 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22780 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22781 From: Memrie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22782 From: T. Craig Morton Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22783 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22784 From: sue Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22785 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22786 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22787 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22788 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Bitterlings and Pingi Logsucker
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22789 From: Memrie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22790 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: Bitterlings and Pingi Logsucker
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22791 From: Just ask me Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Shark Cartilage Shows No Benefit As A Therapeutic Agent For Lung Ca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22792 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22793 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22794 From: Jessica Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22795 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22796 From: Jessica Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22797 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22798 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22799 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22800 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22801 From: Just ask me Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Birth of Baby Beluga whale video clip
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22802 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: couple questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22803 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22804 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22805 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22806 From: Sue Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: salt water tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22807 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22808 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: couple questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22810 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22811 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Question about recommendations for FW tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22812 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: salt water tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22813 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22814 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: couple questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22815 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Update on power loss in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22816 From: land_shapes Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Update on power loss in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22818 From: pinkviolin1346 Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22819 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22820 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Powerhead for 55 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22821 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22822 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22823 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22825 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Marine Fish Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22826 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22827 From: hank voss Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22828 From: Laurie Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Feeding Saltwater Eels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22829 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22830 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22831 From: John Hawley Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Atlantis Fish Flake Food Voluntary Recall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22832 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22833 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22834 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22835 From: me Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22836 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22837 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22838 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22839 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22840 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22841 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22842 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22843 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22844 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Saltwater Eels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22845 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22846 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Saltwater Eels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22847 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22848 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22849 From: land_shapes Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22850 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22851 From: hank voss Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22852 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22853 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22854 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22855 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22856 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/8/2007
Subject: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22857 From: Francina Martinez Date: 6/8/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22858 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22859 From: Just ask me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Genes of sea Sponge reveals the origins of Nervous System
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22860 From: Just ask me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Sea Turtle Eating a Sponge
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22861 From: EAR Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Sea Turtle Eating a Sponge
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22862 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22863 From: me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22864 From: hank voss Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22865 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22866 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22867 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22868 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22869 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22870 From: hank voss Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22871 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22872 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22873 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22874 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22875 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22876 From: Andreas Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22877 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22878 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22879 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22880 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22881 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22882 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22883 From: Paul Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22884 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22885 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22886 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22887 From: Paul H Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22888 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22889 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22890 From: Venus Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Second Nature Whisper Power Filters 3 (model 3B)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22891 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22892 From: Pickles Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22893 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22895 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22896 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Fish Food Recall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22897 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Second Nature Whisper Power Filters 3 (model 3B)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22898 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22899 From: me Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22900 From: land_shapes Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22901 From: iluvnoni2002 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plant fo
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22902 From: me Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22903 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22904 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22905 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22906 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22907 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Snails In Fish Diets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22908 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22909 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22910 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22911 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22912 From: Paul H Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22913 From: Arthur Strange Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: For Sale: Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazines 1978 Vol. 1 to 1
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22914 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22915 From: Wayne Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Food Recall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22916 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: python
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22917 From: Paul Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22918 From: Antony Dalton Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: moisture and evaporation question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22919 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: moisture and evaporation question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22920 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: test run - underwater camera
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22921 From: me Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22922 From: Barbara Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22923 From: coryswalter Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Saltwater Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22924 From: Sonia cantin Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22925 From: bigechillin Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22926 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22927 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22928 From: Just ask me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Clown fish and sea horse breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22930 From: hank voss Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22931 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22932 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22933 From: jett07002 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22934 From: me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22935 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22936 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22937 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22938 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22939 From: hank voss Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22940 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22941 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: acrylic aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22942 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22943 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22944 From: me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22945 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: acrylic aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22946 From: Pickles Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22947 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22948 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plant
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22949 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22950 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22951 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22952 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22953 From: Judith Downing Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22954 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22955 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22956 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22957 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22958 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22959 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Shrimp Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22960 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22961 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22962 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22963 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22964 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22965 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22966 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22967 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22968 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22969 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22970 From: Blue fish Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22971 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22972 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: My freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22973 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22974 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22975 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22976 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22977 From: Bethany Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22978 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22979 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: My freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22980 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22981 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22982 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22983 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22984 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22985 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22986 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22987 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22988 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22989 From: jett07002 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22990 From: coryswalter Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Need Saltwater Clairification
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22991 From: jett07002 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22992 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22994 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22995 From: Bethany Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22996 From: arty1pat@aol.com Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22997 From: Bethany Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22998 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22999 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23000 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23001 From: Jessica Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Need Saltwater Clairification
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23002 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23003 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23004 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23005 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23006 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23007 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Need Saltwater Clairification
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23008 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23009 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23010 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23011 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23012 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23013 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23014 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23015 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23016 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23017 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23019 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23020 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23021 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23022 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23023 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23024 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Found new info on ph problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23025 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23026 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23027 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23028 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Found new info on ph problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23029 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23030 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Found new info on ph problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23031 From: wongyowmings Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: any malaysian here from selangor
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23032 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23033 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23034 From: jett07002 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23035 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23036 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23037 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23038 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23039 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23040 From: Paul H Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23041 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23042 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23043 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23044 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/17/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23045 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 6/17/2007
Subject: Discus issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23046 From: Bethany Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23047 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23048 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23051 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23052 From: Francina Martinez Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23053 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23054 From: kira.hayes Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Hello From CT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23055 From: land_shapes Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23056 From: moondancr Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23057 From: Paul H Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23058 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23059 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23060 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Hello From CT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23061 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23062 From: hank voss Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23063 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Panting fish!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23064 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Filter Maintenance
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23065 From: Judith Downing Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23066 From: Dan Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23067 From: land_shapes Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23068 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23069 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Maintenance
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23070 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23071 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23072 From: moondancr Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23073 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23074 From: Peaches Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23075 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23076 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23077 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23078 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23079 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23080 From: Peaches Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23081 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Panting fish!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23082 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23083 From: moondancr Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23084 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23085 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23086 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23087 From: Debbie Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23088 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Hello From CT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23089 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23090 From: moondancr Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23091 From: Allie Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23092 From: EAR Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23093 From: Nedra Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they aggr
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23094 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23095 From: Dave Roberts Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23096 From: Leslie Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23097 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23098 From: Nedra Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how about ju
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23099 From: Andreas Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how abou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23100 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23101 From: Debbie Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23102 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23103 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how abou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23104 From: me Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23105 From: rick linboom Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23106 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23107 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23108 From: Memrie Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Out of the mix/OT
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23109 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23111 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23112 From: Debbie Swick Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23113 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23114 From: Janette Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23115 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23116 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23117 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23118 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23119 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23120 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23121 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23122 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23123 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23124 From: missbella.blue Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23125 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23126 From: Pickles Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23127 From: daphnia79 Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Does anyone give me information about the company that I can buy Da
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23128 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23129 From: lulu_rocks_socks Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Does anyone else have an african clawed frog?!?!?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23130 From: Aaron Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have an african clawed frog?!?!?!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23131 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone give me information about the company that I can bu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23132 From: aparadecti24 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23133 From: kstringer1974 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Looking to start first saltwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23134 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23135 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23136 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to start first saltwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23137 From: chris nuttall Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby bristlenose catfish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23138 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23139 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23140 From: April Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to start first saltwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23141 From: April Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23142 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23143 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23144 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23145 From: Antony Dalton Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Looking to start first saltwater tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23146 From: kiran Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23147 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23148 From: joe t Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23149 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23150 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23151 From: April Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23152 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23153 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23154 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23155 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23156 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23157 From: EAR Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23158 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23159 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23160 From: Jessica Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23161 From: Alex See Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23162 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23163 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23164 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23165 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23166 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23167 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23168 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23169 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23170 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23171 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23172 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Re: what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby bristlenose catfi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23173 From: iowakoi Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Warning to dog owners that let their dogs swim in ponds and lakes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23174 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby br
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23175 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Aureatus might have babies :-D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23176 From: harry perry Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23177 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23178 From: Alex See Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23179 From: harry perry Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical./Try this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23180 From: Allie Forst Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23181 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23182 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23183 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical./Try this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23184 From: jett07002 Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23185 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23186 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23187 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: (Off Topic) ~ Happy Birthday USA! ~
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23188 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23189 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23190 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23191 From: arindamk Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Corraline Algea Seed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23192 From: charger9069 Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23193 From: tmoore668@charter.net Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23194 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23195 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23196 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23197 From: Memrie Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23198 From: Memrie Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23199 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23200 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23201 From: Jessica Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Mexican Turbo Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23202 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23203 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: Mexican Turbo Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23204 From: jim_jan_now Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: 50 gallon fish tank and stand for sale in NJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23205 From: Jannine Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23206 From: whjordan83 Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23207 From: Patti M Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Trying to find link to post.......
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23208 From: Patti M Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Trim.....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23209 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: water test after restarting the pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23210 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Moss wall...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23211 From: Jessica Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: Mexican Turbo Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23212 From: Memrie Date: 7/7/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23213 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/7/2007
Subject: Re: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23214 From: Antony Dalton Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: overflow return help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23215 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23216 From: Pickles Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23217 From: wantvws Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: It's been two years and I'm almost ready to set up my first tank..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23218 From: Memrie Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23219 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: amonia test
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23220 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23221 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 Gallon Tank--WAS: Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23222 From: idgie62 Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23223 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 Gallon Tank--WAS: Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23224 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23225 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam video
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23226 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam #2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23227 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam video FINALLY uploaded
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23228 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23229 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23230 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23232 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23233 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23234 From: whjordan83 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23235 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23236 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23237 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23238 From: anil abraham Date: 7/11/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23239 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/11/2007
Subject: Deciding on fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23240 From: Just ask me Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Jellyfish Population Explosion Leads To New Use For Waste Creatures
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23241 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Deciding on fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23242 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Deciding on fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23243 From: Debbie Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Question about setting up a 30gal saltwater tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23244 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Question about setting up a 30gal saltwater tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23245 From: Vitae Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23246 From: Mat Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23247 From: Billy Rowe Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23248 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23249 From: Hero Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Water Parameter for spiny lobster?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23250 From: hamrad45 Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: How much food is too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23251 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23252 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23253 From: Hamrad Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23254 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23255 From: Billy Rowe Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23256 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23257 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23258 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23259 From: Alan Henney Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Need help w/ crab ID
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23260 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23261 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23262 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23263 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23265 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23266 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23267 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23268 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23269 From: ribron32 Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: New to group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23270 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: New to group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23271 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23272 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23273 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23274 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23275 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23276 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23277 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: neat lil site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23278 From: iowakoi Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Using plants to control algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23279 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23280 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23281 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23282 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23283 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23284 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23285 From: EAR Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: neat lil site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23286 From: rick linboom Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: neat lil site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23287 From: JFazio Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: 2 fish that don't look right
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23288 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Question about Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23289 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23290 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23291 From: wantvws Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23292 From: wantvws Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23293 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23294 From: Melanie Gordon Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23295 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23296 From: Foxtrotter Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Sexing Koi/Comets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23297 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Sexing Koi/Comets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23298 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23299 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Fungus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23300 From: jakesmomma06 Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23301 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/17/2007
Subject: couple questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23302 From: Foxtrotter Date: 7/17/2007
Subject: Re: Sexing Koi/Comets
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23303 From: Heather Date: 7/18/2007
Subject: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23304 From: Heather Date: 7/18/2007
Subject: Need a link to a fish disease site!!! ASAP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23305 From: Farscape Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23306 From: Allie Forst Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23307 From: Debbie Swick Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23308 From: Heather Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23309 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23310 From: Hez Lat Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23311 From: Leslie Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Heaters for small tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23312 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23313 From: quelchjulie Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Hi im new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23314 From: Kandyce Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Need some help with plants....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23315 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23316 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23317 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Need some help with plants....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23318 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Heaters for small tanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23319 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23320 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23321 From: Snert Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23322 From: Wendie Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23323 From: April Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23324 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23325 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23326 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23327 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23328 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23329 From: Pickles Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23330 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23331 From: Bridget Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23332 From: Bridget Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23333 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23334 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23335 From: Farscape Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23336 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23337 From: Bridget Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23338 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23339 From: Pickles Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: (7/21): Natural Balance Botulism Recall Alert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23340 From: Peter H Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23341 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23342 From: ÐJ §téþhèñ Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23343 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23344 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23345 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23346 From: Vitae Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23347 From: Vitae Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23348 From: Charles Muether Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23349 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23350 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23351 From: kstringer1974 Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23352 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23353 From: Chad Plum Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23354 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: pond cam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23355 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23356 From: Paula Brown Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23357 From: Vitae Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23358 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23359 From: Blue fish Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: View latest videos of Marine animals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23360 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23361 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23362 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23363 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23364 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23365 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23366 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23367 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23368 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23369 From: Debra Melton Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23370 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: after deliberation
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23371 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: after deliberation
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23372 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: pond log
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23373 From: elementkid65 Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: is anyone else here in australia, queensland, sunshine coast,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23374 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23375 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/28/2007
Subject: success - live webcam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23376 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Any one from New Orleans area?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23377 From: Phil Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23378 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23379 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23380 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23381 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23382 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23383 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23385 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23386 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23387 From: William Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23388 From: Pickles Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23389 From: Jim Pat. Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23390 From: EAR Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23391 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23392 From: hamrad45 Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23393 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23395 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: beautiful morning
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23396 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23397 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: underwater cam - still photos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23398 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23399 From: Pickles Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23400 From: Pickles Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23401 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23402 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23403 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23404 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: e-mail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23406 From: Jim Pat. Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23407 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23408 From: Beth Lucas Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23409 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23410 From: Blue fish Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23411 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23412 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23413 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23414 From: barbie4527 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: What is best water to use??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23415 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23416 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23417 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23418 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23419 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23420 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23421 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23422 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23423 From: lseldin Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23424 From: K. T. Kinnavy Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Help identifying a fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23425 From: Francina Martinez Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23426 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23427 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23428 From: April Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23429 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23430 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23431 From: William Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23432 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23433 From: Antony Dalton Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23434 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23435 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: thanks for the suggestion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23436 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23437 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: thanks for the suggestion
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23438 From: barbie4527 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23439 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23440 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23441 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23442 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23443 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23444 From: lseldin Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23445 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23446 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23447 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23448 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23449 From: Rob Steele Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: air pump recommendation
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23451 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: air pump recommendation
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23452 From: Just ask me Date: 8/3/2007
Subject: New rare Glass Sponge Reefs found
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23453 From: Nedra Jansen Date: 8/3/2007
Subject: Heat Wave In Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23454 From: Blue fish Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23455 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: I've got a question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23456 From: Pixiey Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: New here & after information about tetra's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23457 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23458 From: harry perry Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's/Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23459 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's/Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23460 From: peakholee Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23461 From: harry perry Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand./Try this
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23462 From: Pickles Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23463 From: Pickles Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23465 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23466 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23467 From: cara Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23468 From: Todd Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: how to keep a brackish water tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23469 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23470 From: cara curry Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23471 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23472 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23473 From: cara curry Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23474 From: Eugene Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23475 From: Debra Melton Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23476 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23477 From: adrian lara Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23478 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: how to keep a brackish water tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23480 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23481 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23482 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23483 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23484 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23485 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23486 From: Paula Brown Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Snails/Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23487 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23488 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23489 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23490 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23491 From: harry perry Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas/Pearly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23492 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23493 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23494 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23495 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23496 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23497 From: Julie Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: reef keeper??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23498 From: Ronny Immekus Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23499 From: Jessica Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23500 From: Kate Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Help needed on a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23501 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails/Loaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23502 From: detbaskball Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23503 From: William Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23504 From: Vitae Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23505 From: barbie4527 Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23506 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23507 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23508 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23509 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23510 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23511 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23512 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Helpful links for pond owners
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23513 From: wcnida Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23514 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23515 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: plant identification help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23516 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23517 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23518 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23520 From: William Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23521 From: Jess Cook Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Hi group, I am new and have a question about Discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23522 From: Pickles Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23523 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: Black furry algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23524 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: new to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23525 From: Jess Cook Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: new to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23526 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23527 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23528 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23529 From: lseldin Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23530 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23531 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23532 From: Debbie Swick Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23533 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23534 From: nrstype2004 Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23535 From: nrstype2004 Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23536 From: Kate Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23537 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23538 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23539 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23540 From: Rich Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23541 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23542 From: Wendie Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23543 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23544 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23545 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23546 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23547 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23548 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: New to the group- Looking for advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23549 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group- Looking for advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23550 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23551 From: taner yildiz Date: 8/15/2007
Subject: hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23552 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group- Looking for advice
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23553 From: quelchjulie Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Ram Eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23554 From: kate hardy Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23555 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23556 From: crabbarat Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Crabs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23557 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23558 From: Aaron Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23559 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: New with Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23560 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23561 From: christian_girl77 Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Great website for buying Macroalgae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23562 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23563 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23564 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23565 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23566 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23567 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23568 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Question from a New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23569 From: Kate Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Update on planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23570 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23571 From: William Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23572 From: Aaron Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Update on planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23573 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23574 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23575 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23577 From: surot_swarovski2002 Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: newbie philippines
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23578 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23579 From: kate hardy Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23580 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: garra pingi and Calcium Bento
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23581 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23582 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Update on planted tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23583 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23584 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed on a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23585 From: ljjh68 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Aquarium Supplies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23586 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Platy bullying problem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23587 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: breeding bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23588 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23589 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Supplies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23590 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23591 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23592 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23593 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23594 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23595 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23596 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Supplies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23597 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Lethargic New Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23598 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23599 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23600 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23601 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23602 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23603 From: hazlet3738 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Help with Silver Dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23604 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Lethargic New Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23605 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Light Usage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23606 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Lethargic New Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23607 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23608 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Help with Silver Dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23609 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23610 From: kate hardy Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23611 From: kate hardy Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23612 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23613 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23614 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23615 From: bethmlucas@cox.net Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23616 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23617 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23618 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23619 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23620 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23622 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23623 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23624 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23625 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23626 From: ipartyforfun Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23627 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23628 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23629 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Fish Stores in the DC Area?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23630 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23631 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23632 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23633 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23634 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23635 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23636 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23637 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23638 From: mkorday Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Help with Silver Dollars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23640 From: Debra Melton Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23641 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23643 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23644 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23645 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23646 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Stores in the DC Area?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23647 From: Antony Dalton Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: RO units and water storage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23648 From: Just ask me Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Elephantnose fish see with their chin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23649 From: jett07002 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Wher did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23650 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23651 From: Jim Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23652 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23653 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23654 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23655 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Petco Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23656 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23657 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Petco Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23658 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23659 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23660 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23661 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23662 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23663 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23665 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23666 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23667 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23668 From: Aaron Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: cherry shrimp glosso
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23669 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23670 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23671 From: Aaron Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Where did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23672 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23673 From: jett07002 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23674 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23675 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23676 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23677 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Petco Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23678 From: kate hardy Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23679 From: kate hardy Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23680 From: Jim Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23681 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23682 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23683 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23684 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23685 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23686 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23687 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23688 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23689 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23690 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23691 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23692 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23693 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23694 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23695 From: Hamrad Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23696 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23697 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23698 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23699 From: Aaron Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: FISH.xls
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23700 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23701 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23702 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: FISH.xls
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23703 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: New file uploaded to AquaticLife
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23704 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23705 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23706 From: William Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23707 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23708 From: kate hardy Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23709 From: kate hardy Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23710 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Pleco I.D....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23711 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23712 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23713 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23714 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23715 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes & Catching Guppies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23716 From: William Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23717 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23718 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23720 From: anne carrera Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23721 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: OT: The Salmon Dance
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23722 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Fish I.D. Please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23723 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Pond Plants Needed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23724 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23725 From: anil abraham Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23726 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23727 From: Francina Martinez Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23728 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23729 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: RO units and water storage
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23730 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Help with sick and dying fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23731 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23732 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23733 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Er...dumb question?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23734 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23735 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23736 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23737 From: kate hardy Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23738 From: Ro Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: New Blog
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23739 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23740 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23741 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Possible ich - now what?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23742 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23743 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23744 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23745 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23746 From: kate hardy Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23747 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23748 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: pond plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23749 From: Jim Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23750 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23751 From: Aaron Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23752 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23753 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Directions for the Master test kit?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23754 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Directions for the Master test kit?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23755 From: kate hardy Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23756 From: kate hardy Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23757 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23758 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23759 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23760 From: William Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23761 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23762 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23763 From: azariamum1 Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: Anyone on here in adelaide south australia wanting to sell/swap chi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23764 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23765 From: Outsource Techndu Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: New to this groups---Hello All
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23766 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: New to this groups---Hello All
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23767 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23768 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23769 From: jules27au Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23770 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23771 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23772 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23773 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23774 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23775 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23776 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23778 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23779 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23780 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23781 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23782 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23783 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23784 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23785 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23786 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23787 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: "Netiquette WAS: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23788 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23789 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23790 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23791 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: mollie with popeye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23792 From: barbie4527 Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Scarlet leg hermits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23793 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: mollie with popeye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23794 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet leg hermits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23795 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23796 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23797 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23798 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23799 From: gorsford Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Shrimp babies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23800 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp babies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23801 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp babies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23802 From: barbara thomas Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet leg hermits
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23803 From: poul wehner Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: recomendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23804 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23805 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23806 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23807 From: ~Kristy~ Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23808 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23810 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23811 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Dying Fish Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23812 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23813 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23814 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23815 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23816 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Questions about ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23818 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23819 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23820 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23821 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23822 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23823 From: Jim Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Filter Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23824 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23825 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23826 From: quietari Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: mormyrid question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23827 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23828 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23829 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23830 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23831 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: desert gobies...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23833 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23834 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23835 From: Veronica Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23836 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23837 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23838 From: William Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23839 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23840 From: quietari Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23841 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23842 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23844 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: Violet gobies...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23845 From: Debbie Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23846 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23847 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23848 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Cartoon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23849 From: ~Kristy~ Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23850 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23851 From: hamrad45 Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23852 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Cartoon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23853 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23854 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23855 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23856 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23857 From: Debbie Swick Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23858 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: canister filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23859 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23860 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23861 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23862 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: canister filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23863 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23864 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: canister filter question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23865 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23866 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23867 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23868 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23869 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23870 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23871 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23872 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23873 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23874 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23875 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23876 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23877 From: quietari Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23878 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23879 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23880 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23881 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23882 From: Sam Palermo Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23883 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23884 From: rick linboom Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23885 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23886 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23887 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23888 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23889 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23890 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23891 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23892 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23893 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23894 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23895 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23896 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23897 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23898 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23899 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23900 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23901 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23902 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23903 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23904 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23905 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23906 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23907 From: Ro Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Websites worth visiting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23908 From: Glen Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23909 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23910 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Websites worth visiting
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23911 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23912 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23913 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23914 From: Glen Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23915 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23916 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23917 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Can some one tell me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23918 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23919 From: harry perry Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23920 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23921 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23922 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Free Tanks and Equipment (was -Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23923 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23924 From: William Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23925 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23926 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23927 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23928 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23929 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23930 From: gracefullnature52 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23931 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23932 From: Jim Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23933 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23935 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23936 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: New tank disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23937 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23938 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: how can i grow green hair algae and get rid of the blue and brown a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23939 From: Alex See Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23940 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23941 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23942 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: What do you suggest
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23943 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23944 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23945 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23946 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23947 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23948 From: William Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23949 From: Julie Quelch Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23950 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23951 From: vishwanath preetham Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23952 From: babyangelsdaycareabilenetx Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23953 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23954 From: idgie62 Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23955 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23956 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23957 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23958 From: poul wehner Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23959 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23960 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23962 From: Lauren Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Goldfish not eating, sitting on the bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23963 From: gorsford Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23964 From: hamrad45 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Guppies died again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23965 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Can some one measure for me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23966 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Can some one measure for me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23967 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23968 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Python System
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23969 From: William Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Python System
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23970 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23971 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23972 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Found the tank I want for a good price!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23973 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23974 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23975 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23976 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23977 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23978 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Guppies died again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23979 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23980 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Python System
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23981 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23982 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23983 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23984 From: Blue fish Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23985 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23986 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23988 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23989 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23990 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23991 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23992 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23993 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23994 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23995 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23996 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23997 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23998 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23999 From: William Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24000 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24001 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24002 From: Emilie Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24003 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24004 From: Emilie Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: ...questions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24005 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24006 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Back from Australia and new photos!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24007 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Planted Tank Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24008 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24009 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24010 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24011 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24012 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24013 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24014 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Tank Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24015 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24016 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24017 From: William Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24018 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24019 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Tank Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24020 From: Wendie Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24021 From: Alex See Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24022 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24023 From: iowakoi Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Fall in the pond/ predators
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24024 From: Alex See Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24025 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24026 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24027 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24028 From: gorsford Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: What make a bulb a good fresh water plant bulb?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24029 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24030 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24031 From: jett07002 Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24032 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24033 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: What make a bulb a good fresh water plant bulb?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24034 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24035 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24036 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24037 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24038 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24039 From: ming yeung Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24040 From: Ro Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24041 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24042 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24043 From: gracefullnature Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24044 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24045 From: Grace Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24046 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24047 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24048 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Schooling fish question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24051 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24052 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24053 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24054 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24055 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: overcrowding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24056 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: overcrowding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24057 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: update to changing substrate and a new question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24058 From: hank voss Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24059 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: green spot algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24060 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: green spot algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24061 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24062 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24063 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24064 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24065 From: John Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24066 From: Kevin Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24068 From: Kevin Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24069 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24070 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24071 From: Ro Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24072 From: Ro Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24073 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24074 From: gorsford Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24075 From: ming yeung Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24076 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24077 From: ming yeung Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24078 From: Alex See Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24079 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24080 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24081 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24082 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24083 From: Alex See Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24084 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24085 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24086 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24087 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24088 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: new member intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24089 From: Belinda Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24090 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24091 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: New Here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24092 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24093 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Aquarium Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24094 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Book
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24095 From: snowy80829 Date: 9/21/2007
Subject: sick pond goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24096 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/21/2007
Subject: Re: sick pond goldfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24097 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24098 From: Jim Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24099 From: William Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24100 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24101 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24102 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24103 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24104 From: Larry Nave Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: New Dilema...Koi...Lenny any thoughts?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24105 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24106 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24107 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24108 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24109 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24110 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24111 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24112 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24113 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24114 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24115 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24116 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24117 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24118 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24119 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Bargain deals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24120 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Bargain deals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24121 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24122 From: Kevin Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: update on my sick girl beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24123 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: update on my sick girl beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24124 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: update on my sick girl beta
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24125 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24126 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24127 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24128 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24129 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24130 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24131 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24132 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24133 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24134 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24135 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24136 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24137 From: Ro Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Bargain deals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24138 From: gorsford Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24139 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24140 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24141 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Airstone Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24142 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24143 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24144 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24145 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24146 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24147 From: Zinfin Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Best fish to breed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24148 From: Alex See Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24149 From: William Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Best fish to breed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24150 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24151 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Anyone ever heard of www.tfdfish.com??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24152 From: ming yeung Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: less brown algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24153 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Best fish to breed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24154 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24155 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone ever heard of www.tfdfish.com??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24156 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Re shipping cherry shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24157 From: Alex See Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24158 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Question about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24159 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24160 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24161 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24162 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24163 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24164 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24165 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24166 From: Kate Conrow Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24167 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24168 From: Kevin Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24169 From: Beth Lucas Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24170 From: Kevin Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24171 From: dmctjc Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24172 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips/ sick fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24173 From: Vinni Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: DIY Stand Plans
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24174 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: DIY Stand Plans
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24175 From: poul wehner Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: DIY Stand Plans
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24176 From: Jim Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Cremecicle Mollys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24177 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Cremecicle Mollys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24178 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24179 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24180 From: jett07002 Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Cremecicle Mollys
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24181 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24182 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24183 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24184 From: Vinni Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24185 From: Vinni Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24186 From: jules27au Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24187 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24188 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24189 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24190 From: J & J Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24191 From: Vinni Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Does this deal sound too good ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24192 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24193 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24194 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24195 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24196 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24197 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: tank stand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24198 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24199 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24200 From: iowakoi Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Dealing with wildlife associated with ponds- mink, herons, and more
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24201 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24202 From: barone922 Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24203 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24204 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24205 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24206 From: poul wehner Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24207 From: Julie Roughley Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24208 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24209 From: Kristen Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: New to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24210 From: 1 nice Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24211 From: Andreas Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24212 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24213 From: 1 nice Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24214 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: New to group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24215 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24216 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24217 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24218 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24219 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24220 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24221 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24222 From: Vinni Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24223 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24224 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24225 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24226 From: Ro Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24227 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24228 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24229 From: Vinni Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: CO2 Bulkead Fittings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24230 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24231 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: CO2 Bulkead Fittings
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24232 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Freshwater Stingrays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24233 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Freshwater Stingrays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24234 From: gorsford Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Worms and bugs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24235 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24236 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24237 From: Alex See Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24238 From: gorsford Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: How to determine sex of Green puffers?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24239 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: How to determine sex of Green puffers?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24240 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24241 From: Andreas Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24242 From: Emilie Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: fiddler Watermelon crab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24243 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Chemical or not to chemical...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24244 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Chemical or not to chemical...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24245 From: Jim Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24246 From: Andreas Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: fiddler Watermelon crab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24247 From: kstringer1974 Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: fiddler Watermelon crab
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24248 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Purigen filter insert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24249 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24250 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24251 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24252 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24253 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Chemical or not to chemical...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24254 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24255 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24256 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24257 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24258 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24259 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24260 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24261 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24262 From: joshualevy Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Silicon Valley Aquarium Society's Yearly Auction is Oct 6 in San Jos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24263 From: friendtoallfish Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: repairing a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: repairing a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24265 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: repairing a tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24266 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24267 From: Francina Martinez Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24268 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24269 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24270 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24271 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24272 From: harry perry Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!/The Great Blue Heron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24273 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!/The Great Blue Heron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24274 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24275 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24276 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24277 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24278 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24279 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24280 From: thats albert fishs pelvis! yow! Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24281 From: Amalthea Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24282 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: flourecent light size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24283 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: flourecent light size
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24284 From: surot_swarovski2002 Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: aquarium hobbyists
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24285 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24286 From: Jim Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24287 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24288 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24289 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24290 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24291 From: kstringer1974 Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24292 From: William Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24293 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/8/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24294 From: muskie4817 Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Brackish tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24295 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Brackish tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24296 From: mvsoap Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24297 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24298 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Brackish tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24299 From: Antony Dalton Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24300 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24301 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24302 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24304 From: graphics & Fish Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24305 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24307 From: Bill Lane Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: newest newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24308 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24309 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24310 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24311 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24312 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24313 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24314 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24317 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: newest newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24318 From: jaysen223 Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: suppliers in nyc
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24319 From: Vinni Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24320 From: Kristen Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Breeding pair of red devil cichlids for sale
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24321 From: Kristen Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24322 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24323 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24324 From: mail.bwuk2003 Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Recommended Book for Koi Ponds
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24325 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24326 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24327 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Pond fish disappeared! Update!!! :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24328 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24329 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: New member with 5 pond system Intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24330 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24331 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24332 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Opinions?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24333 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member with 5 pond system Intro
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24334 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24335 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24336 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24337 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24338 From: harry perry Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but/ Too quick to judge????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24339 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but/ Too quick to judge????
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24340 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24341 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24342 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24343 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24344 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared! Update!!! :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24345 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Unusual Newt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24346 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Unusual Newt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24347 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24348 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24349 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: I need help with this filter...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24350 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24351 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24352 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24353 From: gorsford Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue, Ody
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24354 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24355 From: Vinni Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: DIY CO2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24356 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24357 From: hank voss Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24358 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24359 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24360 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24361 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24362 From: camillenmx Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24363 From: sneha_pre Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: hI
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24364 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24365 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24366 From: jules27au Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Frustrated Owner..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24367 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24368 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24369 From: rmp052690 Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24370 From: inoudo2 Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24371 From: Julie Roughley Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24372 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24373 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Fish size reference source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24374 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24375 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24376 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Help for a sick Rainbow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24377 From: Steve Biondi Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help for a sick Rainbow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24378 From: Camille Collins Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24379 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24380 From: Camille Collins Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24381 From: jasondanielrobert Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Bloated Angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24382 From: John Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Australian Rainbow Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24383 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24384 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Bloated Angelfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24385 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Australian Rainbow Help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24387 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: What kind of fish is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24388 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Supplies are coming today!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24389 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Re: Supplies are coming today!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24390 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24391 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: Supplies are coming today!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24392 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: What kind of fish is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24393 From: CP Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Waterfall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24394 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: Waterfall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24395 From: jviswakula Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: New Memeber
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24396 From: nkahnert Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: help, yellow algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24397 From: daniel_balaj Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24398 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: Re: help, yellow algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24399 From: chris nuttall Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: is it white-spot, velvet or both?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24400 From: Blue fish Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: View latest videos of Marine animals
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24401 From: coryswalter Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: Freshwater to Saltwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24402 From: chris nuttall Date: 10/21/2007
Subject: Re: is it white-spot, velvet or both?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24403 From: bobbyhayden Date: 10/21/2007
Subject: Announcing GiveaDamForSalmon.org and a nationwide comment campaign!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24404 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: What kind of fish is this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24405 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Question please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24406 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24407 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24408 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24409 From: William Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24410 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24411 From: crazycritterz5 Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24412 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24413 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24414 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24415 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24416 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24417 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24418 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please (now about Easy Balance from Tetra)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24419 From: Andreas Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24420 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24421 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Don's pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24422 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Kudos Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24423 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24424 From: 1 nice Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: why
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24425 From: Jim Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Has anyone seen anything like this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24426 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24427 From: Jim Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24428 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24429 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: why
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24430 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24431 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24432 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Don's pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24433 From: jett07002 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Kudos Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24434 From: Ella B Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24435 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24436 From: Francina Martinez Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24437 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24438 From: habskahuna Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24439 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24440 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24441 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24442 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24443 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24444 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: QT tanks -was Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24445 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24446 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24447 From: aclaar877 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: For Sale: Discus / Clown Loaches St. Louis, MO
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24448 From: marty7448129 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: My redtail catfish..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24449 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: My redtail catfish..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24450 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24451 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24452 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24453 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24454 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24455 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Wonderful online store..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24456 From: siricheeri Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Wonderful online store..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24457 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: QT tanks -was Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish fr
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24458 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24459 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24460 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24461 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24462 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24463 From: Amy Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24465 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24466 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24467 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Python Cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24468 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24469 From: William Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24470 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24471 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24472 From: Poul Wehner Date: 10/26/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24473 From: habskahuna Date: 10/26/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24474 From: Jennifer Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24475 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24476 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24477 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: ba kharid hamster shadi ra be khane avarid*new*, 10/27/2007, 11:00 p
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24478 From: kl_whitney Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Found the PERFECT tank for me @ walmart
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24479 From: kl_whitney Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24480 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Found the PERFECT tank for me @ walmart
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24481 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24482 From: Zinfin Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24483 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24484 From: poul wehner Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24485 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24487 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24488 From: Jennifer Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24489 From: nice6669 Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24490 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: worried - Very Large Bodied Female Guppy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24491 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24492 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24493 From: William Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24494 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24495 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24496 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24497 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: worried - Very Large Bodied Female Guppy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24498 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24499 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24500 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24501 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24502 From: thechocolategoldfish Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24503 From: Beth Lucas Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24504 From: Vinni Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: stocking advice / thoughts
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24505 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24506 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24507 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24508 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24509 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24510 From: Jennifer Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Fake Plants vs Live Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24511 From: harry perry Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Fake Plants vs Live Plants/Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24512 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Lighting Problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24513 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24514 From: Kate Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24515 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24516 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24517 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24518 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Problems
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24520 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24521 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24523 From: thechocolategoldfish Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24524 From: Lee Ann Peavy Brigham Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24526 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24527 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24528 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24529 From: jett07002 Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Fake Plants vs Live Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24530 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24531 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24532 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24533 From: Foxtrotter Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24535 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site Getting a little of
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24536 From: William Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site Getting a littl
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24537 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24538 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24539 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24540 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24541 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24542 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24543 From: deberhardt85 Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24544 From: Cynthia Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24545 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Happy Halloween!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24546 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24547 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24548 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24549 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24550 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24551 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24552 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24554 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24555 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Happy Halloween!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24556 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24557 From: William Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24558 From: Eric Roberts Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24559 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24560 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24561 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24562 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: HOB Use on Planted Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24563 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24564 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24565 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24566 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24567 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24568 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24569 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24570 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24571 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24572 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24573 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24574 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24575 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24577 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24578 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24579 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24580 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Shipping Fish online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24581 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24582 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24583 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24584 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24585 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Inter breed question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24586 From: Cynthia Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24587 From: Tricia Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Dojo question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24588 From: Wendie Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: Dojo question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24589 From: pinkvock Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: total alkalinity and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24590 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24591 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24592 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24593 From: ipartyforfun Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24594 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24595 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24596 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24599 From: Phil Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24600 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24601 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Silly question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24602 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24603 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24606 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24608 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Happy 5 Year Anniversary to the #1 Yahoo Fish Group!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24609 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Happy 5 Year Anniversary to the #1 Yahoo Fish Group! (take 2)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24610 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: Goldfish and platies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24611 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish and platies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24612 From: April Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: New 20 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24613 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/8/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24614 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 11/8/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish and platies?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24615 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24616 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24617 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24618 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24619 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24620 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24622 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Photo Upload
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24623 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24624 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24625 From: William Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24626 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24627 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24628 From: William Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24629 From: Kristen Date: 11/12/2007
Subject: Actinic Lights?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24630 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/12/2007
Subject: Re: Actinic Lights?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24631 From: coryswalter Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Betta Behavior Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24632 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24633 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24634 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24635 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24636 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24637 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24638 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24639 From: Terri A. Randall Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Setting up new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24640 From: nice6669 Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: walleye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24641 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24642 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24643 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24644 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24645 From: benchu81 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24646 From: benchu81 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24647 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24648 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24649 From: Terri A. Randall Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24650 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24651 From: Carmen H Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24652 From: hendralim27 Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: caridina sp orange (mandarine)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24653 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24654 From: Kate Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: 5 gallon planted project
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24655 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: CLEARLY LED'S
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24656 From: bmp Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Introducing myself (new member)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24657 From: William Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: 5 gallon planted project
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24658 From: Terri Randall Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: CLEARLY LED'S
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24659 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24660 From: bardia_salemi Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24661 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24663 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24664 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24665 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24667 From: kstringer1974 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24668 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24669 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: 5 gallon planted project
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24670 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Bio Wheel attachment for Cannister filters???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24671 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24672 From: hamrad45 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Cleaning aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24673 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: African Dwarf Frog ~ Balloon like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24674 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Plants in Malawi Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24675 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Cleaning aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24676 From: Carmen H Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24677 From: ljjh68 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog ~ Balloon like
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24678 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Cleaning aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24679 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24680 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24681 From: Zinfin Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24682 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24683 From: Carmen H Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24684 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24685 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Plants in Malawi Tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24686 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: ADF w/ Bloat? ~ Adding Salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24687 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24688 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24689 From: bmp Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24690 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24691 From: William Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24692 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: An idea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24693 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24694 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24695 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24696 From: harry perry Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae/Try this
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24697 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24698 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24699 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24700 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24701 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24702 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24703 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24704 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24705 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24706 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24707 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24708 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24709 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24710 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24711 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24712 From: sigit_18786 Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: help to identify
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24713 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24714 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24715 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24716 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24717 From: Eric Roberts Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24718 From: Scott Schulz Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Geophagus as companion for Chocolate Cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24719 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24720 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24721 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24722 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24723 From: Carmen H Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24724 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24725 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24726 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24727 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Fluidized Bed Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24728 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24729 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24730 From: William Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Geophagus as companion for Chocolate Cichlids?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24731 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24732 From: Poul Wehner Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24735 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: hospital med tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24736 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24737 From: William Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24738 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: MONSTER FISH TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24739 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24740 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24741 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: MONSTER FISH TANK
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24742 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Streptocephalus sirindhornae or fresh water artemia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24743 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: joint adhesive
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24744 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24745 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24746 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: joint adhesive
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24747 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Home-Made Fish Food
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24748 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24749 From: William Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24750 From: Zinfin Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24751 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24752 From: April Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24753 From: Carmen H Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24754 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24755 From: Rakaryan Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24756 From: Heather Vock Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24757 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24758 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24759 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: joint adhesive
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24760 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24761 From: kobymonkey Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24762 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24763 From: Beth Lucas Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24764 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Moonlight Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24765 From: Rakaryan Date: 11/28/2007
Subject: Re: Moonlight Gouramis
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24766 From: Nimish Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: I am now Back
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24767 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: I am now Back
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24768 From: Melissa Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: New Member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24769 From: judy_be Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24770 From: Nimish Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24771 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24772 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: I am now Back
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24773 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24774 From: Angela Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24775 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24776 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Goldie listing to her sides and sitting on bottom a lot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: Goldie listing to her sides and sitting on bottom a lot
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24778 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24779 From: Beth Lucas Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24780 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24781 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24782 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24783 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24784 From: iluvpetfish Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: In Response to Angela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24785 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24786 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24787 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24788 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24789 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24790 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24791 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24792 From: Daisy Crazy Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24794 From: Debra Melton Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24795 From: nice6669 Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: need help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24796 From: kathy wells Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: need help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24797 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24798 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24799 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24800 From: William Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24801 From: crazycritterz5 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: New Filtration system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24802 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24803 From: Poul Wehner Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24804 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24805 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: My new canister
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24806 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24807 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24808 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24810 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24811 From: kelly Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Hi Im new to the group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24812 From: William Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Im new to the group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24813 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24814 From: iowakoi Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: What's going on under the ice in your pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24815 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24816 From: Angela Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] In Response to Angela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: In Response to Angela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24818 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24819 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24820 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24821 From: Kevin Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: beta question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24822 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: beta question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24823 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24824 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: beta question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24825 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24826 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24827 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24828 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24829 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24830 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24831 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24832 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24833 From: kobymonkey Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24834 From: nice6669 Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24835 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Sea Salts
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24836 From: William Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24837 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24838 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24839 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24840 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24841 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24842 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24843 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24844 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24845 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24846 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Eco Aqualizer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24847 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24849 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Eco Aqualizer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24850 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Sissy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24851 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24852 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Sissy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24853 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Sissy, B-Ionic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24854 From: ronald canlas Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: shrimp prices
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24855 From: Carmen H Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: shrimp prices
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24856 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24857 From: Angela Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24858 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24859 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24860 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24861 From: Angela Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24863 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24864 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Sissy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24865 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24866 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24867 From: Cezare Almeda Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: new member from manila
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24868 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24869 From: bmp Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: new member from manila
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24870 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24871 From: cezarealmeda Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: new member from manila
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24872 From: Daisy Crazy Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24873 From: Paula Brown Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Cichlid Disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24874 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Cichlid Disease
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24875 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24876 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24877 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24878 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24879 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24880 From: rcdtrc Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Piranha
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24881 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (bulb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24882 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24883 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24884 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24885 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24886 From: mkorday Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Piranha
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24887 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24888 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24889 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24890 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24891 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24892 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Marsha's CBS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24893 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24894 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Clown ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24895 From: William Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24896 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24897 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24898 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24899 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (bulb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24900 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24901 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24902 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24903 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24904 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24905 From: marsha w. Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24906 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24907 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24908 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Light question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24909 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24910 From: phebe_1981 Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Breeder severums
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24911 From: judy_be Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: glass of acryllic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24912 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: glass of acryllic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24913 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Brown Diatoms and Light
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24914 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24915 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24916 From: Ungers Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Problem with my Tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24917 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24918 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: glass of acryllic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24919 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Brown Diatoms and Light
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24920 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24921 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Problem with my Tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24922 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24923 From: Antony Dalton Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: strange sight...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24924 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24925 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24926 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24927 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24928 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24929 From: wil Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: new to group w new NANO cube
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24930 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24931 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24932 From: Carmen H Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24933 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24935 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24936 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24937 From: bmp Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24938 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24939 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24940 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24941 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24942 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: PETA (non fish)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24943 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24944 From: siricheeri Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24945 From: Daniel R. Jackson Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24946 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24947 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24948 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: PETA (non fish)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24949 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24950 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: PETA (non fish)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24951 From: Robert Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24952 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24953 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24954 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snail
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24955 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24956 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24957 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24958 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24959 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24960 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: NEW!!!! [AquaticLife] New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24961 From: rahj_dg Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Pop eye in Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24962 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24963 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24964 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Aquarium Picture on Main Page- Thank You!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24965 From: rahj_dg Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24966 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Picture on Main Page- Thank You!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24967 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24968 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: new to group w new NANO cube
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24969 From: Kate Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Scarlet Badis and photos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24970 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24971 From: iluvpetfish Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Happy Holidays! Pic Of My First Tank...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24972 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24973 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24974 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Happy Holidays! Pic Of My First Tank...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24975 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24976 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet Badis and photos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24977 From: bmp Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24978 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24979 From: bmp Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic/so sorry but the offer has expired
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24980 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24981 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24982 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24983 From: bmp Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24984 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24985 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet Badis and photos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24986 From: alien8mipussy Date: 12/14/2007
Subject: red sea salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24995 From: wil Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Nano packs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24996 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano packs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25001 From: Angela Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Floating snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25002 From: Carmen H Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: Floating snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25003 From: Angela Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Floating snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25005 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25006 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25008 From: Ungers Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Little Tiny Worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25009 From: sagirkennel Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: My Holiday Miracle/off topic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25010 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25011 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25012 From: sagirkennel Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Aliens salt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25013 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25020 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: OFF Topic Posts wil be deleted
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25021 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Yahoo! Terms of Service
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25022 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Why is it allowed?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25024 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Floating snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25025 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25026 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: My Holiday Miracle/off topic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25027 From: kvnunger Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25028 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25029 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25030 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25031 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25032 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post (Lenny)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25033 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post (Lenny)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25034 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25035 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25036 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25037 From: ASK DONT TELL Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25038 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25039 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25040 From: Kelley Lee Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Question?? about sick Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25042 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Saltwater Sump question
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25044 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25045 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25046 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Question?? about sick Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25047 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25048 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25049 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25051 From: Dave Roberts Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25052 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25053 From: Joeseph Schmoe Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Answer to fish question..Re: [AquaticLife] Sorry if I offended a
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25054 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Answer to fish question..Re: [AquaticLife]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25055 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25057 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: The Nano guy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25058 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25059 From: Farscape Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Question?? about sick Oscar
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25060 From: bmp Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: I delete all posts with this: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowe
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25061 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Off topic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25063 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25064 From: William Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25065 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25066 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25068 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25069 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25070 From: jett07002 Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: I agree!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25071 From: Colby Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25072 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Pet Store Frustrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25073 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25074 From: William Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25075 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25076 From: camdog@sbcglobal.net Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Question about Albino catfish and babies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25077 From: Colby Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25078 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25079 From: aaron102272 Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: FisHighway
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25080 From: Debra Melton Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Albino catfish and babies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25081 From: Zeke Barber Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: FisHighway
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25082 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25083 From: ipartyforfun Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25084 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25085 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25086 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25087 From: hank voss Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25088 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25089 From: hank voss Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25090 From: Eric Roberts Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25091 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25092 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25093 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25094 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25095 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25096 From: texaslonghorns81 Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25097 From: Angela Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt res
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25098 From: bmp Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25099 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25100 From: Michael Date: 12/23/2007
Subject: anyone in this group live near me in McHenry County, IL?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25101 From: texaslonghorns81 Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25103 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25104 From: steve Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: was thinking of the melochromis arturus cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25105 From: bmp Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25106 From: bmp Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25107 From: Christina Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Intro.........
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25108 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: fire bellied frogs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25109 From: Tricia Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: For Your Christmas Enjoyment - Some Videos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25111 From: Bill Lane Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Merry Christmas - Something Different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25112 From: Rick McElveen Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Please help - my Beta's gill is swollen ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25113 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: Merry Christmas - Something Different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25114 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: Please help - my Beta's gill is swollen ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25115 From: steve Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25116 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25117 From: milind korday Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25118 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25120 From: bmp Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25121 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Help with sick female guppy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25122 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25124 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25125 From: bmp Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25126 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25127 From: pinkvock Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: ugf
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25130 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25131 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25133 From: William Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25134 From: Christine Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25135 From: Vanessa Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25136 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25137 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25138 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25139 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25141 From: William Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25142 From: pinkvock Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25143 From: Kevin Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25144 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25145 From: Melissa Walker Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25147 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25148 From: Carmen H Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25149 From: Brian Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: HI getting a tank agin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25150 From: Carmen H Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: HI getting a tank agin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25151 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: HI getting a tank agin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25152 From: Vanessa Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25153 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25154 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25155 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: changing flters...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25156 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25157 From: Kevin Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25158 From: joe t Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25159 From: hamrad45 Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Platys: Growth rate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25160 From: Melissa Walker Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25161 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: changing flters...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25162 From: Vanessa Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25164 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25165 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lenny - I have a question as to what something is in your last p
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25166 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25167 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lenny - I have a question as to what something is in your last p
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25168 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25169 From: Kevin Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25171 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25172 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25173 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25174 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25175 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25176 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25179 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: can t really judge my H2O readings right now
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25180 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25183 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: cichlid dancing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25184 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25185 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25186 From: William Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25187 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25188 From: Kevin Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25189 From: joe t Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25190 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25191 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25192 From: William Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25193 From: Kevin Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25194 From: Farscape Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: cichlid dancing
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25195 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25196 From: H. B. Pattskyn Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: New Member - new to aquarium gardening!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25198 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Happy New Year!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25199 From: bmp Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: New Member - new to aquarium gardening!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25200 From: William Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25201 From: Diane Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: how do i get rid of snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25202 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: happy New Year!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25203 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25204 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Aquarium Lighting for Cichlid Freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25205 From: ToPaSiO D.V. Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25206 From: diane none Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25207 From: Robert Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?



Group: AquaticLife Message: 20234 From: Karen Millett Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!
Happy New Year to you and everyone here.
Karen.
>
> From: "Rich" <mantid666@...>
> Date: 2006/12/31 Sun PM 04:09:48 EST
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!!!!!!
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYBODY. READ ABOUT YOU NEXT YEAR.
> RICH
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20235 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: 125 gal. Aquarium for sale Little Rock, AR
I had a few hits off the last time I posted this so I wanted to give it
one more shot before I move. I hope that's OK.

125 Gal. Oceanic. Glass hoods, wooden stand, leak free aquarium and all
the needed supplies.
$300 cash

Includes two beautiful blood parrots (who really need a good new home),
2 angels, 1 kissing gourami.
1 AquaClear 110 filter, 1 Eheim 2270 canister, 1 Bio-Wheel 90
1 Ebo-Jaeger Heater
Gravel 2-3" coverage
3 lighting strips w/ 160 watts total.
Java moss and lace java fern.
Air pumps, air stones, hoses, etc....
Python gravel vac, food & water treatments

Located in Cabot, AR just north of Little Rock.

Pictures under 130 fresh in the photo section.

Email moorealtitude@... if interested and for more pictures.

Thanks,
Leslie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20236 From: Al Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Live Plants Question
Hi Everyone and Happy New Year, I received a pack with two bulbs in it
from Wally Worlb You drop them into the Aquarium and they grow into a
nymphaea and lilly plants. Has anyone used these and are they ok to
use. Thanks, Al
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20237 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
As far as bulbs go... With my experience you have to sit them in there just right to get them to grow... It takes some time... If you're not sure which way to sit them eventually your fish will knock them around to the right way...


----- Original Message ----
From: Al <mcconnell63@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 1, 2007 2:55:42 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Live Plants Question

Hi Everyone and Happy New Year, I received a pack with two bulbs in it
from Wally Worlb You drop them into the Aquarium and they grow into a
nymphaea and lilly plants. Has anyone used these and are they ok to
use. Thanks, Al




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20238 From: Karen M Smith Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
I ujsed them in my Betta tanks a few years ago. They were great.

Al <mcconnell63@...> wrote: Hi Everyone and Happy New Year, I received a pack with two bulbs in it
from Wally Worlb You drop them into the Aquarium and they grow into a
nymphaea and lilly plants. Has anyone used these and are they ok to
use. Thanks, Al






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20239 From: Teresa Ayers Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Jim

Where are you at in Ohio?

Teresa
----- Original Message -----
From: jim
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Strange things living in my aquarium


---hi teresa,,, i had a similar looking group of slug like critters
come in on some live rock or in the sand i seeded the cycle with,,,
kept an eye on them as they grew,,, at least one was a conch of some
sort,,, lasted about a year till the hitchiker crab grew big enough to
eat it ,,, got to about the size of a nickle,,, regards,,,Jim
--- by the way ,, i'm in Ohio too

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Teresa" <trayers2001@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
> no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20240 From: Chad Plum Date: 1/1/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
Jim and Teresa where are both of you at in Ohio? I am in Hilliard.

Chad


Teresa Ayers <trayers2001@...> wrote:
Jim

Where are you at in Ohio?

Teresa
----- Original Message -----
From: jim
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Strange things living in my aquarium

---hi teresa,,, i had a similar looking group of slug like critters
come in on some live rock or in the sand i seeded the cycle with,,,
kept an eye on them as they grew,,, at least one was a conch of some
sort,,, lasted about a year till the hitchiker crab grew big enough to
eat it ,,, got to about the size of a nickle,,, regards,,,Jim
--- by the way ,, i'm in Ohio too

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Teresa" <trayers2001@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
> no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20241 From: Teresa Ayers Date: 1/2/2007
Subject: Re: Strange things living in my aquarium
I live by Bryan OH.
Teresa
----- Original Message -----
From: Chad Plum
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 01, 2007 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Strange things living in my aquarium


Jim and Teresa where are both of you at in Ohio? I am in Hilliard.

Chad


Teresa Ayers <trayers2001@...> wrote:
Jim

Where are you at in Ohio?

Teresa
----- Original Message -----
From: jim
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Strange things living in my aquarium

---hi teresa,,, i had a similar looking group of slug like critters
come in on some live rock or in the sand i seeded the cycle with,,,
kept an eye on them as they grew,,, at least one was a conch of some
sort,,, lasted about a year till the hitchiker crab grew big enough to
eat it ,,, got to about the size of a nickle,,, regards,,,Jim
--- by the way ,, i'm in Ohio too

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Teresa" <trayers2001@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone
>
> I have these snail-slug looking things in my salt water tank and have
> no idea what they are. I just know they seem to keep multipling
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20242 From: Tiffany Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: snail looks like its dying..
i've had my snail for over 6 months. he was in a tank with regular tap
water. 2 weeks ago i bought a new tank and put in some type of water
conditioner. i did just as the directions said. my new fish seem to be
doing great, but my snail stopped moving about 3 days ago. it doesn't
come completely out of its shell. i took it out of the tank and into
regular tap water. it then stuck its "oxegen tube" and took in some
air. (its in about 1 inch of tap water so it can reach out for air) i
know its alive. but it wont come out and stand on its foot. and i
haven't seen it eat either. do you know whats wrong and how i can
correct it before its to late? i had planned to by another snail, but
now i'm afraid to without knowing whats wrong with this one.
Thank you,
Tiffany
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20243 From: Tiffany Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
i found it!! its called a Caecilian Worm. i asked the local aquarium
store and then looked it up and confermed with photos. the guy at the
store said they aren't available right now due to declining numbers.
guess it'll have to wait. good luck little buddies!
Thanks everyone for your help!!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> do you have more of a description of this fish do you look into the
Ropefish is it snake like very little info to go by to help you out
>
> dwand4kids <donhelms@...> wrote: I have a dragon goby.
It's grayish/blue. It's eyes are really small
> (they're almost blind), not large. It spends most of it's time
> hiding, and I've never seen it at the top of my aquarium, much
> less "climbing" out of it.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joe mihalich" <joemax@> wrote:
> >
> > it is called a dragon goby
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@> wrote:
> > >
> > > about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was
> either a
> > > very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any
> fins.
> > just
> > > a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of
the
> tank
> > > and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was?
> i've
> > > looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything.
> your
> > > help would be so much apreciated.
> > > thank you.
> > > Tiffany
> > >
> > > ps: this is my first aquarium.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20244 From: Esther Souverein Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Hi Al, a Happy New Year to you too!



When I use Nymphea bulbs, I just let them lie on the bottom of the tank
until they sprout tiny thin roots. Most bulbs I used had started sprouting leaves on the other side by then, but these are also tiny in the beginning.

Then you know which side is up and which side to put under the gravel!

Be sure then not to bury the bulb wholly, always keep the bit on top where the leaves come out of clear from gravel. Works for me!



Greetings, Esther.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20245 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Amphibian,%20Caecilian%20Worms.htm
I found this. It looks like a hagfish. Hope its nothing like a hagfish. It they are disturbed they turn water into slime.


----- Original Message ----
From: Tiffany <spoild313@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2007 1:02:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what is this fish called??

i found it!! its called a Caecilian Worm. i asked the local aquarium
store and then looked it up and confermed with photos. the guy at the
store said they aren't available right now due to declining numbers.
guess it'll have to wait. good luck little buddies!
Thanks everyone for your help!!

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ ...>
wrote:
>
> do you have more of a description of this fish do you look into the
Ropefish is it snake like very little info to go by to help you out
>
> dwand4kids <donhelms@.. .> wrote: I have a dragon goby.
It's grayish/blue. It's eyes are really small
> (they're almost blind), not large. It spends most of it's time
> hiding, and I've never seen it at the top of my aquarium, much
> less "climbing" out of it.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "joe mihalich" <joemax@> wrote:
> >
> > it is called a dragon goby
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@> wrote:
> > >
> > > about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was
> either a
> > > very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any
> fins.
> > just
> > > a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of
the
> tank
> > > and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was?
> i've
> > > looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything.
> your
> > > help would be so much apreciated.
> > > thank you.
> > > Tiffany
> > >
> > > ps: this is my first aquarium.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail. yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20246 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: what is this fish called??
Just read thier discription. They are an amphibian not a fish.


----- Original Message ----
From: Tiffany <spoild313@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2007 1:02:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what is this fish called??

i found it!! its called a Caecilian Worm. i asked the local aquarium
store and then looked it up and confermed with photos. the guy at the
store said they aren't available right now due to declining numbers.
guess it'll have to wait. good luck little buddies!
Thanks everyone for your help!!

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@ ...>
wrote:
>
> do you have more of a description of this fish do you look into the
Ropefish is it snake like very little info to go by to help you out
>
> dwand4kids <donhelms@.. .> wrote: I have a dragon goby.
It's grayish/blue. It's eyes are really small
> (they're almost blind), not large. It spends most of it's time
> hiding, and I've never seen it at the top of my aquarium, much
> less "climbing" out of it.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "joe mihalich" <joemax@> wrote:
> >
> > it is called a dragon goby
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Tiffany" <spoild313@> wrote:
> > >
> > > about 10 years ago my mom bought a worm looking fish. it was
> either a
> > > very dark grey or it was back. i dont remember it having any
> fins.
> > just
> > > a big smile and large eyes. it used to climb out the back of
the
> tank
> > > and we'd have to throw it back in. anyone know what this was?
> i've
> > > looked and looked on the web, but i cant seem to find anything.
> your
> > > help would be so much apreciated.
> > > thank you.
> > > Tiffany
> > >
> > > ps: this is my first aquarium.
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail. yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20247 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/3/2007
Subject: Re: snail looks like its dying..
Well some snails do go into a dormant stage. I would check the ingredients of the stuff you put in. If there is any copper that would be the problem as copper kills inverts.


----- Original Message ----
From: Tiffany <spoild313@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2007 12:56:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] snail looks like its dying..

i've had my snail for over 6 months. he was in a tank with regular tap
water. 2 weeks ago i bought a new tank and put in some type of water
conditioner. i did just as the directions said. my new fish seem to be
doing great, but my snail stopped moving about 3 days ago. it doesn't
come completely out of its shell. i took it out of the tank and into
regular tap water. it then stuck its "oxegen tube" and took in some
air. (its in about 1 inch of tap water so it can reach out for air) i
know its alive. but it wont come out and stand on its foot. and i
haven't seen it eat either. do you know whats wrong and how i can
correct it before its to late? i had planned to by another snail, but
now i'm afraid to without knowing whats wrong with this one.
Thank you,
Tiffany




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20248 From: jeanie Date: 1/4/2007
Subject: new to group
HI ALL , I HAVE A 180 GAL SALT REEF TANK GOING NOW FOR ABOUT 8 WEEKS !
IT DOING GREAT RIGHT NOW BUT DO HAVE SOME QUESTIONS I WILL POST AT A
LATER DATE ! IS THERE A LOT OF SALT TAKE PEOPLE HERE? HAVE A GREAT NEW
YEARS AND HOPE TO TALK TO SOME OF YOU IN THE FUTURE!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20249 From: Al Date: 1/4/2007
Subject: Re: Live Plants Question
Hi Esther, I am going to put the blubs in the tank tomorrow and see
what happens. I have a new 10 gal. tank and I went to petsmart
Thanksgiving week to buy my fish. I have a pair of balloon belly
mollys, 2 female rasboras and 2 neons. I think the neons are m and f.
I want to buy one male rasbora and that will complete the tank. So
far so good, all the fish are happy and look healthy. Al


>
> Hi Al, a Happy New Year to you too!
>
>
>
> When I use Nymphea bulbs, I just let them lie on the bottom of the
tank
> until they sprout tiny thin roots. Most bulbs I used had started
sprouting leaves on the other side by then, but these are also tiny
in the beginning.
>
> Then you know which side is up and which side to put under the
gravel!
>
> Be sure then not to bury the bulb wholly, always keep the bit on
top where the leaves come out of clear from gravel. Works for me!
>
>
>
> Greetings, Esther.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20250 From: dcasey Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: New to group
Hi, my name is Denise and I live in Pritchett Colorado... Yes, down in this sad part of Colorado where the storm has hit us very very bad..... anyways, I just set up my 55 gallon during this storm... It looks great.... I would have liked to try salt water.......Too bad we have to travel so far to get fish....Not much around these parts except Wal-Mart which is 1 1/2 hours away... gee... not much of a selection...... ha
Looking forward to reading all your posts!!!
Happy New Year to you all!!

Denise
End Of U Ranch
end_of_u_ranch@...
www.endofuranch.com (website)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20251 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: New member =O)
HI ALL!

My name is Maria. I live in Washington. The kids and I have a Betta, a
Fire-Bellied Toad living with a Goldfish and Feeder Guppies, several
large Goldfish, and a tank of ever multiplying feeder guppies. We were
just given a 55 gallon tank that I would love to start a salt water
community in. Right now it has a leak that needs repaired, and I am
searching for a stand for it. I would appreciate any advice for
starting the tank.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20252 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: new to group
You can go here too.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Saltwater_Fish_and_Reef_Aquariums/?yguid=267323422


----- Original Message ----
From: jeanie <springs_gal2000@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 4, 2007 8:33:47 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] new to group

HI ALL , I HAVE A 180 GAL SALT REEF TANK GOING NOW FOR ABOUT 8 WEEKS !
IT DOING GREAT RIGHT NOW BUT DO HAVE SOME QUESTIONS I WILL POST AT A
LATER DATE ! IS THERE A LOT OF SALT TAKE PEOPLE HERE? HAVE A GREAT NEW
YEARS AND HOPE TO TALK TO SOME OF YOU IN THE FUTURE!




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20253 From: big_mama_kab Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Hello, I just joined
My names Raquel, I live in Northern CA. I recently purchased some Fire
Bellied Toads and this was the only group thats active came up in my
search. I was wondering if anyone here has them?

Looking forward to getting to know the group.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20254 From: big_mama_kab Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
Hi Maria!
I just joined also. Its funny, I just posted asking if anyone has any
FBT's. I just got 4 of them about a week ago and I LOVE them! I forgot
to mention earlier that I also have a Betta named Tartar Sauce & 2 of
my boys have Bettas as well.
I am going to modify my tank for the frogs this weekend, as I got some
ill advice from the pet shop I bought the frogs from. What kind of
setup do you have?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
<mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
>
> HI ALL!
>
> My name is Maria. I live in Washington. The kids and I have a Betta,
a
> Fire-Bellied Toad living with a Goldfish and Feeder Guppies, several
> large Goldfish, and a tank of ever multiplying feeder guppies. We
were
> just given a 55 gallon tank that I would love to start a salt water
> community in. Right now it has a leak that needs repaired, and I am
> searching for a stand for it. I would appreciate any advice for
> starting the tank.
>
> Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20255 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New to group
How is the post office in your part? Have you looked into online shopping?


----- Original Message ----
From: dcasey <end_of_u_ranch@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2007 10:17:08 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to group

Hi, my name is Denise and I live in Pritchett Colorado... Yes, down in this sad part of Colorado where the storm has hit us very very bad..... anyways, I just set up my 55 gallon during this storm... It looks great.... I would have liked to try salt water....... Too bad we have to travel so far to get fish....Not much around these parts except Wal-Mart which is 1 1/2 hours away... gee... not much of a selection... ... ha
Looking forward to reading all your posts!!!
Happy New Year to you all!!

Denise
End Of U Ranch
end_of_u_ranch@ rural-com. com
www.endofuranch. com (website)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20256 From: Melissa Laing Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
you might want to check out the group of
FroggieFriends they mostly have African Clawed Frogs,
but I know I've seen a few posts for FBT's so someone
might be able to help our there.
Melissa

--- big_mama_kab <bigmamakaboose@...> wrote:

> Hi Maria!
> I just joined also. Its funny, I just posted asking
> if anyone has any
> FBT's. I just got 4 of them about a week ago and I
> LOVE them! I forgot
> to mention earlier that I also have a Betta named
> Tartar Sauce & 2 of
> my boys have Bettas as well.
> I am going to modify my tank for the frogs this
> weekend, as I got some
> ill advice from the pet shop I bought the frogs
> from. What kind of
> setup do you have?
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com,
> "mi_vida_muyloca"
> <mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
> >
> > HI ALL!
> >
> > My name is Maria. I live in Washington. The kids
> and I have a Betta,
> a
> > Fire-Bellied Toad living with a Goldfish and
> Feeder Guppies, several
> > large Goldfish, and a tank of ever multiplying
> feeder guppies. We
> were
> > just given a 55 gallon tank that I would love to
> start a salt water
> > community in. Right now it has a leak that needs
> repaired, and I am
> > searching for a stand for it. I would appreciate
> any advice for
> > starting the tank.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20257 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I just joined
Well had them in the store. Personally I had a pac man frog he was awesome. Use to feed mine mice. What type of tank do you have and how is it set up. Tell us more if you dont mind. So have you tried to search yahoo groups under frogs or toads or amphibians?


----- Original Message ----
From: big_mama_kab <bigmamakaboose@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2007 3:31:03 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello, I just joined

My names Raquel, I live in Northern CA. I recently purchased some Fire
Bellied Toads and this was the only group thats active came up in my
search. I was wondering if anyone here has them?

Looking forward to getting to know the group.




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20258 From: Rich Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I just joined
Hi Raquel, I have 2 fire bellied toads & a newt. They are in a ten
gal. tank that is half land & half water with a few rocks & plastic
plants. I feed them live crickets that I get from the petshop.
Sometimes you can hear them making barking sounds.

Enjoy,Rich












--- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "big_mama_kab" <bigmamakaboose@...>
wrote:
>
> My names Raquel, I live in Northern CA. I recently purchased some
Fire
> Bellied Toads and this was the only group thats active came up in
my
> search. I was wondering if anyone here has them?
>
> Looking forward to getting to know the group.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20259 From: ahorseofcourse66 Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Sick tank, HElp?
I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for over a
year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a problem
with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss weight
and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she hasn't
much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank are
home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the tank
more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested water
and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20260 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member =O)
We have a ten gallon tank. We have an in-tank filter that mounts on
the inside wall. We have gravel on the bottom, with a hill so the
toads can get out of the water. We also have a large rock for them
to get out, too. I had a philodendron plant in there, also. The
toads would climb all over it. It loved the water and did great for
a while, but I think it wasn't getting enough light. We took that
out.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20261 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Just wondering if you have a heater? Or possibly your pump is
failing? It may be a problem with faulty equipment? Or did you add
any new decorations to the tank about the time this started
happening?
You could also be over-medicating them, that is a common mistake. Or
under feeding?

Just a few ideas.

Maria



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ahorseofcourse66"
<ahorseofcourse66@...> wrote:
>
> I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for
over a
> year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
> filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a
problem
> with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
> this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
> week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss
weight
> and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
> raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she
hasn't
> much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank
are
> home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
> several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the
tank
> more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested
water
> and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20262 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
When you test and everything checks out OK, what exactly are the results
that you get?
You mention treating for parasites...why do you believe they had/have
parasites? Have you noticed any white poop coming from them? (If so
you have to feed them parasite med food, water treatments won't work.)
Do they have white spots on them?
When you clean the filter...how are you cleaning it? Under tap water,
tank water?

Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ahorseofcourse66
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2007 11:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sick tank, HElp?



I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for over a
year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a problem
with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss weight
and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she hasn't
much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank are
home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the tank
more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested water
and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20263 From: callie143 Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
I was wondering how many fish you have in the tank. Do you have a way
to tell what your water parimeters are? Ammonia, Nitrite, etc?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ahorseofcourse66"
<ahorseofcourse66@...> wrote:
>
> I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for over a
> year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
> filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a problem
> with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
> this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
> week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss weight
> and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
> raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she hasn't
> much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank are
> home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
> several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the tank
> more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested water
> and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20264 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Have you tested the water? I would suggest a 20% water change every
week, rather than 10% every other week.

Do you condition the water before you put it in your tank? Does the
water conditioner take care of both chlorine and chloramines?


> I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for over
a
> year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
> filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a problem
> with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
> this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
> week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss weight
> and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
> raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she hasn't
> much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank
are
> home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
> several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the tank
> more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested water
> and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20265 From: ahorseofcourse66 Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Yes I treat new water for chlorine and chloramines and I also put in a
stress med. when I add new water. My water test results always come
back normal for everything and I have had it tested by the local pet
store also and its normal. My tank heater works fine and I check the
temp of tank everyday to make sure the water temp. stays the same.
SOmeone asked if I have noticeds white poop and yes I have. ONe of my
male mollies that acts sick one day and fine the next has had white
poop. Is this a sign of something? I treated for parasites because
that is the only thing I could find that my fish are showing some
signs of having. I have in the past feed parsite food but they don't
eat it very good and it didn't seem to help. SO do you think I need
to feed parsite food also? Thanks for all the replies. Mick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20266 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
One of the problems is that you have stated twice already that your
water parameters come back "normal". In order to help a diagnosis, we
need actual numbers for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature and
hardness.

The fish you have mentioned--guppies and mollies, are fish that come
from water with a certain hardness, and brackish water, and though they
can survive in many different types of water, the addition of salt or
some other agent providing a certain amount of hardness to your water,
if it does not have it, would quite possible help your situation.

Right now, my guess is that there was some change in the water at the
time your fish started to die. We need to determine what that might have
been and give you steps to be able to rectify it. Normal means different
things to different people. Normal water parameters for an African rift
lake cichlid are far different than those for a neon tetra.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ahorseofcourse66
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 1:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Sick tank, HElp?

Yes I treat new water for chlorine and chloramines and I also put in a
stress med. when I add new water. My water test results always come
back normal for everything and I have had it tested by the local pet
store also and its normal. My tank heater works fine and I check the
temp of tank everyday to make sure the water temp. stays the same.
SOmeone asked if I have noticeds white poop and yes I have. ONe of my
male mollies that acts sick one day and fine the next has had white
poop. Is this a sign of something? I treated for parasites because
that is the only thing I could find that my fish are showing some
signs of having. I have in the past feed parsite food but they don't
eat it very good and it didn't seem to help. SO do you think I need
to feed parsite food also? Thanks for all the replies. Mick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20267 From: Leslie & Dane Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Yes white poop means internal parasites. This might be why they become
lethargic. Crush the medicated food into almost a powder, they will
have an easier time eating it. Also, do not feed them for 24 hours
prior to giving them the medicated food so they will be hungry to enough
to eat it. Then feed it to the them as their only food for 3
consecutive days. Don't interrupt this diet or it won't work.
After 3 days of medicated food, resume their normal diet (which should
consist of several different types of food and not just one type) then
repeat the medicated food diet after 21 days.

Jungle makes a food called Pepso but it's usually in pellets so would
need to be crushed for small fish.

Send us your test results in numbers also...ammonia, nitrites, nitrates,
pH

~Leslie

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CabotWomensClub/?yguid=239407322>
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ahorseofcourse66
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 12:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Sick tank, HElp?



Yes I treat new water for chlorine and chloramines and I also put in a
stress med. when I add new water. My water test results always come
back normal for everything and I have had it tested by the local pet
store also and its normal. My tank heater works fine and I check the
temp of tank everyday to make sure the water temp. stays the same.
SOmeone asked if I have noticeds white poop and yes I have. ONe of my
male mollies that acts sick one day and fine the next has had white
poop. Is this a sign of something? I treated for parasites because
that is the only thing I could find that my fish are showing some
signs of having. I have in the past feed parsite food but they don't
eat it very good and it didn't seem to help. SO do you think I need
to feed parsite food also? Thanks for all the replies. Mick







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20268 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: New member
Good afternoon,

I just joined the list and wanted to say hello. I have 4 small
freshwater tanks: 1) 20G with tiger and green barbs, black tetras,
hatchets, a pleco, pictus, and several shrimp, 2) a 15G tank with 3
goldfish of sorts, 3) a 10G with neon tetras and fancy shrimp, and a
4th tank that I use to grow algae on pieces of wood to feed my
shrimp. I have had tanks all of my life, but only recently picked it
up again. All of my tanks are heavily planted...

...which leads me to my first question: What light source should I be
using for my 20G tank? I currently have a light with one 10k light
and an actinic light... about 130 watts total. I only use the 10k
light, and my plants are starting to show some brown spots. This is a
new light for me. I replaced a broken standard fluorescent fixture
with this new one. Any suggestions?

Thanks! and looking forward to the list,

Ryan
Andover, MA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20269 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Hello,

I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting back into
it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting up. I
am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of the
tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not sure
whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure on
the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this from
your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,

Anna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20270 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: New member
The brown spotting may not be due to the lighting situation. The leaves
may be getting old, and so long as they re being replaced by new growth,
you should not have to worry. If you are not getting new growth, then
there is a problem. The 10K light is probably giving you enough
light--you did not mention the wattage of the bulb, just a total wattage
of the unit. You may need to look at adding some fertilizer for the
plants.

I notice that your tag says you are from Andover. It is a small hike,
,but may be worth your while to look up the Boston Aquarium Society,
which meets at the Boston Aquarium (actually on the boat at the dock the
last time I was there). They have a number of good plant people as
members there. Look them up on the web.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ryan Scott Bardsley
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 4:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member

Good afternoon,

I just joined the list and wanted to say hello. I have 4 small
freshwater tanks: 1) 20G with tiger and green barbs, black tetras,
hatchets, a pleco, pictus, and several shrimp, 2) a 15G tank with 3
goldfish of sorts, 3) a 10G with neon tetras and fancy shrimp, and a
4th tank that I use to grow algae on pieces of wood to feed my
shrimp. I have had tanks all of my life, but only recently picked it
up again. All of my tanks are heavily planted...

...which leads me to my first question: What light source should I be
using for my 20G tank? I currently have a light with one 10k light
and an actinic light... about 130 watts total. I only use the 10k
light, and my plants are starting to show some brown spots. This is a
new light for me. I replaced a broken standard fluorescent fixture
with this new one. Any suggestions?

Thanks! and looking forward to the list,

Ryan
Andover, MA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20271 From: Ash Date: 1/6/2007
Subject: Re: Sick tank, HElp?
ive never heard of underfeeding before...
is there adequate air filtration. you may want to invest 10 bux and get a small air pump and air stone to add to your current setup.

Re: Sick tank, HElp?
Posted by: "mi_vida_muyloca" mi_vida_muyloca@... mi_vida_muyloca
Sat Jan 6, 2007 4:00 am (PST)
Just wondering if you have a heater? Or possibly your pump is
failing? It may be a problem with faulty equipment? Or did you add
any new decorations to the tank about the time this started
happening?
You could also be over-medicating them, that is a common mistake. Or
under feeding?

Just a few ideas.

Maria

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ahorseofcourse66"
<ahorseofcourse66@...> wrote:
>
> I have a small 10 gallon in my bedroom. It has been set up for
over a
> year. I change water about everyother week at least 10% and clean
> filter when needed. For about the last 4 months I have had a
problem
> with fish dieing off and on. I keep mostly mollies and guppies in
> this tank. They seem to act like they don't feel good for about a
> week and then die. They act like they have no energy and loss
weight
> and seem to have a hard time breathing. I have a female mollie I
> raised and she looks like her tail just kinduf drops and she
hasn't
> much energy when it coms to swimming. Most of the fish in the tank
are
> home raised and the bought fish in the tank have been in it for
> several months. I have noticed no fungus and I have treated the
tank
> more than once with Jungle parasite tablets. Also have tested
water
> and everything checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Mick
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20272 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and an XP3
with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the XP3 is
less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer). I’ve only
had them a couple of months, so I won’t know if Eheim’s claim is true for a
couple of years (I hope).



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 6:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter



Hello,

I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting back into
it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting up. I
am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of the
tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not sure
whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure on
the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this from
your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,

Anna





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20273 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20274 From: Chad Plum Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Hello Donna

I have owned an Eheim for 15 years and it still work great. I have tryed other I will always stick with Eheim for my canister filter and Aqua Clear for my hang on filter. For a 125 I would get a Eheim 2217 run about $150 but like I said Eheim do last the 2217 is rated for up to 160 gal and is perfect for a 125. I have them on a 120 saltwater and on a 150 freshwater I do have an extra filter on the 150 because I just like to have the extra filtration.

Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@...> wrote:
Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20275 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Yes, they are equally quiet, easy to install and clean. Very similar setup.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 10:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter/Donna



Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20276 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
I have the Eheim Ecco because it was easier to maintain. It was under $90.
But I have also heard the Ecco’s are less well made than some of the other
Eheims.



If it’s not easy, I won’t do it. So I’d rather have an “easy” one and have
to buy two over the course of 15 years.



The only reason I didn’t buy two Ecco’s is that their max capacity is 90
gallons, and I wanted double filtration on my 125G. So I went with the XP3
for second filter and I’m very happy. I would buy another.



(I do already have two Ecco’s…I’ve had a smaller one on my 38G tank for over
a year now.)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chad Plum
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007 12:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter/Donna



Hello Donna

I have owned an Eheim for 15 years and it still work great. I have tryed
other I will always stick with Eheim for my canister filter and Aqua Clear
for my hang on filter. For a 125 I would get a Eheim 2217 run about $150 but
like I said Eheim do last the 2217 is rated for up to 160 gal and is perfect
for a 125. I have them on a 120 saltwater and on a 150 freshwater I do have
an extra filter on the 150 because I just like to have the extra filtration.


Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@ <mailto:cotton50girl%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com>
wrote:
Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail. <http://mail.yahoo.com> yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20277 From: fyre_thetoymaker Date: 1/7/2007
Subject: New to the group wanted to do an intro
Hello there,

I have two aquariums as listed below:

55 gallon: I have 2 five inch green terrors I believe are both males,
I am looking for a new home for them because they are getting really
mean towards each other and 2 senegal bichirs both I believe are
females. One is 9 inches and the other is 7 inches. The bichirs are my
babies and all in the tank are carnivores.

39 gallon: It has a 5 inch Oscar and a 4 inch spotted ocolet(sp?)
catfish. The Oscar won't let anyone or anything near or bother the
catfish at all.

I am looking forward to learning a lot more as the time goes by.

sandi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20278 From: habskahuna Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
I've been running a Rena XP3 on my 90g for 6 years+ and I *love* it.
I'm also running 2 XP1's on smaller tanks with similar success. One is
running on a paludarium set-up that has a significant rise from the
filter to the top of the tank, then down to the water and it does it,
no problem.
I've never tried the Ehiems but their reputation is solid.
I tried Fluvals...the first one leaked at the seal and flooded my
living room, so I exchanged it...second one did it again...

There is now an XP4, I'd vote for that one.

Carmen


> Hello,
>
> I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting back
into
> it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting up.
I
> am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of the
> tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not sure
> whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure on
> the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this from
> your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,
>
> Anna
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20279 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Thank you Carmen and everyone who has replied to my question on which
cannister to go with for my new aquarium. Now I must decide, Fresh
water fish or Salt???

Anna


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "habskahuna" <eskielists@...>
wrote:
>
> I've been running a Rena XP3 on my 90g for 6 years+ and I *love*
it.
> I'm also running 2 XP1's on smaller tanks with similar success.
One is
> running on a paludarium set-up that has a significant rise from the
> filter to the top of the tank, then down to the water and it does
it,
> no problem.
> I've never tried the Ehiems but their reputation is solid.
> I tried Fluvals...the first one leaked at the seal and flooded my
> living room, so I exchanged it...second one did it again...
>
> There is now an XP4, I'd vote for that one.
>
> Carmen
>
>
> > Hello,
> >
> > I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting
back
> into
> > it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting
up.
> I
> > am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of
the
> > tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not
sure
> > whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure
on
> > the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this
from
> > your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,
> >
> > Anna
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20280 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Urgent Help Needed...
I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new platies
last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for - half
on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the little
buoy thing yesterday afternoon, and took out the carbon filter pad.
I was adding the 2nd tablet when I came home from work today and
subsequently found 3 dead fish - 1 danio (who really didn't look good
this am), 1 albino cory (apparently healthy original resident from
August) and 1 chinese algae eater. The latter two were as active as
usual this AM when I turned the light on. My other danio is really
struggling, think he'll pass tonight, but I just can't help him - I
can't cause harm to any living thing intentionally. The 2 new
platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to be fine.
The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
level - possibly even elevated slightly, but not really extreme for
his waking time - up and down up and down!

I don't want to lose any more of these critters - what am I doing
wrong - this was suppose to help them!!! Do I need to find another
LFS to get my stock? I rarely see dead animals in their tanks.

Well, I am going to turn off the light AND filter now. I don't want
Mr Danio to end up stuck in the intake like his little buddy did
should he lose his fight. It might me a good rest for him in his
little struggle. I'll peek in on them at 4am when DH gets ready for
work...

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20281 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Lifeguard
for those who are not familiar with this "new" product

http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20282 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
First of all DON'T turn off the filter. Instead, tie a piece of pantyhose or
fine mesh over the intake to prevent fish from getting stuck.

2nd of all you said the tank has been going since august, but are you sure
the ammonia and nitrite levels are okay? If you have added many fish
recently you might have had an ammonia spike. You need to stop adding fish
until you figure out what is wrong. If ammonia or nitrite are present,
reduce feeding and increase water changes until levels drop to 0. Add
zeolite in bags to absorb ammonia.

How often and how much of the water are you changing? Do you have a gravel
vacuum?

Algae bloom usually indicates an excess of nitrate, which means your tank
has too much ammonia. How much and how often are you feeding, and how many
fish do you actually have in the tank?
Emily


On 1/8/07, Betty Lou <mommykline@...> wrote:
>
> I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
> water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
> most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
> getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
> bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
> pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
> bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
> added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
> This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new platies
> last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for - half
> on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
> Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the little
> buoy thing yesterday afternoon, and took out the carbon filter pad.
> I was adding the 2nd tablet when I came home from work today and
> subsequently found 3 dead fish - 1 danio (who really didn't look good
> this am), 1 albino cory (apparently healthy original resident from
> August) and 1 chinese algae eater. The latter two were as active as
> usual this AM when I turned the light on. My other danio is really
> struggling, think he'll pass tonight, but I just can't help him - I
> can't cause harm to any living thing intentionally. The 2 new
> platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to be fine.
> The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
> grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
> and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
> other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
> level - possibly even elevated slightly, but not really extreme for
> his waking time - up and down up and down!
>
> I don't want to lose any more of these critters - what am I doing
> wrong - this was suppose to help them!!! Do I need to find another
> LFS to get my stock? I rarely see dead animals in their tanks.
>
> Well, I am going to turn off the light AND filter now. I don't want
> Mr Danio to end up stuck in the intake like his little buddy did
> should he lose his fight. It might me a good rest for him in his
> little struggle. I'll peek in on them at 4am when DH gets ready for
> work...
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20283 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
After searching for the active ingredient that was listed way down in
the description of the product, I did find something a could actually
access, and so can all of you who are interested. You will need to
register, but the registration is free, however, you can get the
abstract without registering. The link is:
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7014781.html

This does not look like something I'd want to put in my tank. At a
quantity large enough to do what the patent claims, I am thinking it
would not be good for the fish. At the quantity used in the product, I
suspect it does no good. I'd suspect that any good that may come from
use may come from fillers, and not the product. Jungle is famous for its
use of salt in medications.

It also appears that even in the small quantity does, it will have an
adverse effect on your bacterial colonies that make for the biological
cycle that helps you maintain the fish in your tank. They urge you to
use their bacterial product after the use of Lifeguard.

For those of you who have read this post, but not done the research, the
active ingredient is to be used as a water purification method for
drinking water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lifeguard

for those who are not familiar with this "new" product

http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20284 From: fyre_thetoymaker Date: 1/8/2007
Subject: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
I have been harboring thoughts on that volcano set up that they show
in the movie "Finding Nemo" and I would love to find one probably
without all the lights but natural looking. But for some reason
everywhere I look doesn't carry them, doesn't have them, or never
heard of anyone that did. Online or offline it is driving me nuts.

I am thinking about creating one myself with a clean 16 ounce soda
bottle, some rocks and silicone that I have left from when I reglued
my 55 gallon tank. If anyone has any ideas or a site that may be able
to help I would be most grateful.

I also want to make a cave type covering for my Oscar, he didn't fit
into the tree trunk he has in his tank right now and doesn't seem to
like the light when he is resting. Might use the same kind of set up
with creating something for him ... not sure yet, but like I said
above any ideas would be helpful to say the least.

I do not want to harm the fish in my tanks nor hinder them at all.

Thanks in advance, sandi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20285 From: callie143 Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
I was thinking about this post all night, and wondering how things
were going there.

I also have a ten gallon, it's my oldest tank, and therefore close to
my heart.

I'm certainly no expert, but I'm wondering if this tank is overloaded,
or at least was, until you started losing some of it's residence? (Man
that sounds cruel, sorry, didn't intend for it to be)

Do you have test kits at home? Even just a kit for Ammonia, and
Nitrite would be helpful. I know you said the LFS tested your water
parimeters, but it doesn't take much to have a spike in ammonia -
which, as I'm certain you know is deadly for the fish.

Personally, I agree with another poster about NOT turning off the
filter. If it were me, I'd put in a fresh filter, and stop treating
for algae right now. Also, I'd do a 20 to 30% water change each day,
making sure the water is treated before adding, of course. Getting
something to absorb the ammonia, like the other poster said, would
also not hurt a bit.

You don't say how big your current residence are, but I'm guessing
they are all about 1 1/2 inches long. It sounds like you currently
have 3 Platies, a danio that might not have made it through the night
and a cory left?

That's probably the limit for a ten gallon tank and might even be
pushing it. I know some people have managed to have that many fish in
a ten gallon - with weekly water changes of 20% or so, but it would
not be hard to have a water problem creep up also.

As I said, I'm no expert, just an avid hobbiest, who's been through
many ups and downs of my own. Just sharing my own experience. I know
how frustrating is can be to put so much time, effort, and devotion
into your tanks, only to have a death occur. Especially if you'd had
the residence for a while. Frustrating!

I certainly hope your other fish made it through the night, and you
find a solution.... Keep us posted!

Callie in Indiana


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...> wrote:
>
I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our bedroom

I brought home 2 new platies last night
took out the carbon filter pad.
found 3 dead fish - 1 danio
1 albino cory
1 chinese algae eater.

The 2 new platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to
be fine.The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
level -
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20286 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
My amonia levels were nil at the LFS, and I added one male platy that
day - one week later the other two lady platy. The test strip I did
last night after discovering all of this, the nitrate and nitrites
were both a perfect match for the the lowest color, meaning a zero
reading. I had just done a 30 water change before going to get the
lifeguard and the 2 ladies (a whim purchase) (about 24 to 36 hours
before I found the dead fish)

Mr Danio is still hanging on by a thread - I hope he goes before I go
to work, or I will be thinking about him all day. The three platies
and the big fat Mr Catfish all appear to be in wonderful shape this
am. Two of the three platies ate well this am - the third is still a
little shy when I approach the tank - but she is still trying to
settle in - she did find a morsel or two on the flower before Mr
Catfish got ahold of it. Mr Catfish is cleaning up after everyone
even as I type. He is a good custodian! I do have to remember to
adjust the amount of food now since he is my only bottom feeder...

Steve, are you suggesting then that I discontinue the Lifeguard, and
put my carbon filter back in to get rid of the residual? Should I
try another health product?

I really feel like a murderer - I actually broke down in tears last
night, but I so enjoy watching everyone swim about. and they are so
relaxing to me, especially now that they are in my bedroom.

Haven't seen Mr Danio recently, perhaps its time for another fishy
funeral. Type at you all later - thanks for the help!

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
> water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
> most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
> getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
> bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
> pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
> bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
> added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
> This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new
platies
> last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for -
half
> on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
> Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the
little
> buoy thing yesterday afternoon, and took out the carbon filter
pad.
> I was adding the 2nd tablet when I came home from work today and
> subsequently found 3 dead fish - 1 danio (who really didn't look
good
> this am), 1 albino cory (apparently healthy original resident from
> August) and 1 chinese algae eater. The latter two were as active
as
> usual this AM when I turned the light on. My other danio is really
> struggling, think he'll pass tonight, but I just can't help him - I
> can't cause harm to any living thing intentionally. The 2 new
> platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to be
fine.
> The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
> grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
> and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
> other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
> level - possibly even elevated slightly, but not really extreme for
> his waking time - up and down up and down!
>
> I don't want to lose any more of these critters - what am I doing
> wrong - this was suppose to help them!!! Do I need to find another
> LFS to get my stock? I rarely see dead animals in their tanks.
>
> Well, I am going to turn off the light AND filter now. I don't
want
> Mr Danio to end up stuck in the intake like his little buddy did
> should he lose his fight. It might me a good rest for him in his
> little struggle. I'll peek in on them at 4am when DH gets ready
for
> work...
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20287 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
As a numbers person (accountant) and not a chemist, sorry but this is
a foreign language to me - Hopefully it will mean something to
someone tho!

When you say it does no good, are you meaning no effect, or negative
effect??

Thanks

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> After searching for the active ingredient that was listed way down
in
> the description of the product, I did find something a could
actually
> access, and so can all of you who are interested. You will need to
> register, but the registration is free, however, you can get the
> abstract without registering. The link is:
> http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7014781.html
>
> This does not look like something I'd want to put in my tank. At a
> quantity large enough to do what the patent claims, I am thinking it
> would not be good for the fish. At the quantity used in the
product, I
> suspect it does no good. I'd suspect that any good that may come
from
> use may come from fillers, and not the product. Jungle is famous
for its
> use of salt in medications.
>
> It also appears that even in the small quantity does, it will have
an
> adverse effect on your bacterial colonies that make for the
biological
> cycle that helps you maintain the fish in your tank. They urge you
to
> use their bacterial product after the use of Lifeguard.
>
> For those of you who have read this post, but not done the
research, the
> active ingredient is to be used as a water purification method for
> drinking water.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Betty Lou
> Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 8:41 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Lifeguard
>
> for those who are not familiar with this "new" product
>
> http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20288 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Lifeguard appears to be a water purification chemical. It takes no
prisoners when eradicating bacteria, which includes your beneficial
bacteria. Personally, I would not use it. If you discontinue your use of
the product, do place the activated carbon back in your filter to help
rid the water of it. Change the media once a week, along with your water
change (at least 25%) for 4 weeks, then remove the remaining carbon. You
really do not need it unless there is an indication that you should,
such as removing a medication from your water.

I am presuming that you are using actual activated carbon here, and not
some cartridge that may have carbon in one of the inserts or a carbon
impregnated foam block. Carbon does get used up, and there is no way to
determine when the carbon you have in your water path is used up and
will start releasing toxins back into your water.

If you would like to try a prophylactic solution to your problem, use
salt at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water, or just under 2
teaspoons for your 10 gallon tank. To maintain the salt level,, prior to
a water change, add water to your tank to its normal level. Remove the
amount of water you normally do for a water change. Replenish the salt
with an amount that will equal the 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water. If
you change 2 gallons of water, you would need to add the equivalent of
2/5 teaspoon of salt (just under 1/2 teaspoon). Don't worry too much
about being precise--a little more this week, a little less next will
not upset anyone.

Only when you have a firm diagnosis of a disease or parasite that may be
affecting your fish, should you use a medication, and it should be one
directed at that problem specifically. Follow the full course of
treatment recommended by the manufacturer or vendor on the label to
ensure removal of the problem.

As another member has mentioned, the algae bloom would indicate that
there was (is) a problem in your tank. There are two things that affect
algae growth that you have any control over-light and food. If you do
not have live plants in your tank, you can safely reduce the amount of
light without harming the fish. The food is nitrogenous in nature, or an
over abundance of phosphates, or a combination of the two. Nitrogenous
waste is usually in the form of nitrates, the end product of the
biological cycle. This compound can be used by live plants (and algae)
as a food source, which removes it from the water column, or by water
changes. Phosphates usually come in with your tap water, and are a bit
harder to deal with, since removal of water means replacement of water
with the phosphates in the water. It can also arrive via the diet of
your fish, in the form of various manufactured foods. In this case, a
reduction in feeding and/or a change of diet would help with the
phosphate level.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 5:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Urgent Help Needed...

My amonia levels were nil at the LFS, and I added one male platy that
day - one week later the other two lady platy. The test strip I did
last night after discovering all of this, the nitrate and nitrites
were both a perfect match for the the lowest color, meaning a zero
reading. I had just done a 30 water change before going to get the
lifeguard and the 2 ladies (a whim purchase) (about 24 to 36 hours
before I found the dead fish)

Mr Danio is still hanging on by a thread - I hope he goes before I go
to work, or I will be thinking about him all day. The three platies
and the big fat Mr Catfish all appear to be in wonderful shape this
am. Two of the three platies ate well this am - the third is still a
little shy when I approach the tank - but she is still trying to
settle in - she did find a morsel or two on the flower before Mr
Catfish got ahold of it. Mr Catfish is cleaning up after everyone
even as I type. He is a good custodian! I do have to remember to
adjust the amount of food now since he is my only bottom feeder...

Steve, are you suggesting then that I discontinue the Lifeguard, and
put my carbon filter back in to get rid of the residual? Should I
try another health product?

I really feel like a murderer - I actually broke down in tears last
night, but I so enjoy watching everyone swim about. and they are so
relaxing to me, especially now that they are in my bedroom.

Haven't seen Mr Danio recently, perhaps its time for another fishy
funeral. Type at you all later - thanks for the help!

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
> water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
> most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
> getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
> bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
> pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
> bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
> added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
> This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new
platies
> last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for -
half
> on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
> Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the
little
> buoy thing yesterday afternoon, and took out the carbon filter
pad.
> I was adding the 2nd tablet when I came home from work today and
> subsequently found 3 dead fish - 1 danio (who really didn't look
good
> this am), 1 albino cory (apparently healthy original resident from
> August) and 1 chinese algae eater. The latter two were as active
as
> usual this AM when I turned the light on. My other danio is really
> struggling, think he'll pass tonight, but I just can't help him - I
> can't cause harm to any living thing intentionally. The 2 new
> platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to be
fine.
> The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
> grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
> and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
> other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
> level - possibly even elevated slightly, but not really extreme for
> his waking time - up and down up and down!
>
> I don't want to lose any more of these critters - what am I doing
> wrong - this was suppose to help them!!! Do I need to find another
> LFS to get my stock? I rarely see dead animals in their tanks.
>
> Well, I am going to turn off the light AND filter now. I don't
want
> Mr Danio to end up stuck in the intake like his little buddy did
> should he lose his fight. It might me a good rest for him in his
> little struggle. I'll peek in on them at 4am when DH gets ready
for
> work...
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> http://www.yourquietretreat.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20289 From: habskahuna Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
For anyone considering using this, keep in mind the warning...
"Not suitable for scaleless fish, invertebrates, or newly set up tanks."
That will include most (all?) catfish and loaches, and snails, and ???
Sounds like serious stuff, don't think I'd be interested unless it was
a last resort...
Carmen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@...> wrote:
>
> for those who are not familiar with this "new" product
>
> http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20290 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
I AM a murderer!!! - I did read that but didn't realize that the cory
and possibly algae eater would fall into that category.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "habskahuna" <eskielists@...> wrote:
>
> For anyone considering using this, keep in mind the warning...
> "Not suitable for scaleless fish, invertebrates, or newly set up
tanks."
> That will include most (all?) catfish and loaches, and snails,
and ???
> Sounds like serious stuff, don't think I'd be interested unless it
was
> a last resort...
> Carmen
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@> wrote:
> >
> > for those who are not familiar with this "new" product
> >
> > http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20291 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: New to the group
Well I am new to the group as well. I am right now in the process of
breeding my fist pair of Betta's. We are both very excited for the
process to begin. We currently have one tank going in the house it is
a 20 gallon set up for the breeding of the Betta pair. Within in the
next few days we are going to being assembling something for the
hopefull fry to live in.
Any advice on raising the new babies? I have done alot of reading and
feel I am pretty prepared for the event.
Wish me luck
Adrian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20292 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
I am not familar with the volcano you mention however I have seen several
articles where PVC pipes were used with silicone, gravel and rocks to make
caves for cichlids. You may be able to use a medium to large size funnel and
cut off the snout to use as your base for the rocks, gravel, sand and
silicone. You would probably need to sand the plastic funnel so the silicone
will adhere. You could use the plastic lid off a coffee can cut to fit the
base of the volcano with a hole made to run airline from an airstone to a
pump. Just a thought....

On 1/9/07, fyre_thetoymaker <fyre_thetoymaker@...> wrote:
>
> I have been harboring thoughts on that volcano set up that they show
> in the movie "Finding Nemo" and I would love to find one probably
> without all the lights but natural looking. But for some reason
> everywhere I look doesn't carry them, doesn't have them, or never
> heard of anyone that did. Online or offline it is driving me nuts.
>
> I am thinking about creating one myself with a clean 16 ounce soda
> bottle, some rocks and silicone that I have left from when I reglued
> my 55 gallon tank. If anyone has any ideas or a site that may be able
> to help I would be most grateful.
>
> I also want to make a cave type covering for my Oscar, he didn't fit
> into the tree trunk he has in his tank right now and doesn't seem to
> like the light when he is resting. Might use the same kind of set up
> with creating something for him ... not sure yet, but like I said
> above any ideas would be helpful to say the least.
>
> I do not want to harm the fish in my tanks nor hinder them at all.
>
> Thanks in advance, sandi
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20293 From: Karen Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
maybe a small clay flowerpot with bottom removed siliconed to a bubble
disk with silicone flowing down the sides and sprinkle some crushed
gravel or sand onto the wet silicone then paint with black plasti-dip
(Walmart or ACE hardware.)The bubbles would come out of the hole in
bottom. You could also add one of those underwater lights inside the
pot to make the bubbles red.

I know the plasti-dip is saltwater safe. I coated pipe cleaners with it
and made fake sponges and gorgonia. They were in a marine tank for
over a year but I tore that tank down so no pics.
buggers
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20294 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
The cory is not a scaleless fish, and your algae eater probably is not either.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 12:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Lifeguard

I AM a murderer!!! - I did read that but didn't realize that the cory
and possibly algae eater would fall into that category.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "habskahuna" <eskielists@...> wrote:
>
> For anyone considering using this, keep in mind the warning...
> "Not suitable for scaleless fish, invertebrates, or newly set up
tanks."
> That will include most (all?) catfish and loaches, and snails,
and ???
> Sounds like serious stuff, don't think I'd be interested unless it
was
> a last resort...
> Carmen
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou" <mommykline@> wrote:
> >
> > for those who are not familiar with this "new" product
> >
> > http://www.junglelabs.com/pages/details.asp?item=TT101
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20295 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: trouble finding an underwater bubble volcano
http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18494/si1380086/cl0/zoomedmistymountainvolcanofogger





On 1/9/07, fyre_thetoymaker <fyre_thetoymaker@...> wrote:
>
> I have been harboring thoughts on that volcano set up that they show
> in the movie "Finding Nemo" and I would love to find one probably
> without all the lights but natural looking. But for some reason
> everywhere I look doesn't carry them, doesn't have them, or never
> heard of anyone that did. Online or offline it is driving me nuts.
>
> I am thinking about creating one myself with a clean 16 ounce soda
> bottle, some rocks and silicone that I have left from when I reglued
> my 55 gallon tank. If anyone has any ideas or a site that may be able
> to help I would be most grateful.
>
> I also want to make a cave type covering for my Oscar, he didn't fit
> into the tree trunk he has in his tank right now and doesn't seem to
> like the light when he is resting. Might use the same kind of set up
> with creating something for him ... not sure yet, but like I said
> above any ideas would be helpful to say the least.
>
> I do not want to harm the fish in my tanks nor hinder them at all.
>
> Thanks in advance, sandi
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20296 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
I leave my fry in the 20 gallon spawning tanks, and let the father rear
them. He will eat the weak and malformed fry, and some of the unlucky
ones, as well. But for a home hobbyist, that isn't a bad thing, as
having 400 fry to rear can be quite overwhelming. Make sure the air
above the tank is humid, with a lid to the aquarium is best. If you
cannot do that, saran wrap with a couple of holes for air exchange will
work stretched across the tank top. Temps need to be in the 80-83
range for optimum fry health and humidity. Betta fry are quite
tiny...the smallest fry I've ever seen. To feed them I take a hard
boiled egg yolk, crumble it into some water, stir well, seive it into a
spray bottle and spritz the top of the water a few times a day. I also
have dense growth in my fry tank, riccia fluitans is their favorite
infusoria growth plant.

Once the fry are hatched I do daily water changes, about 20% at a
time. this helps the fry grow more quickly. To keep from sucking them
up into the hose, I use a small air line hose and put it inside a used
sponge filter so I can get water, but not fry moving through it. Since
the fry need to be fed several times a day this helps keep the water
cleaner, too.

And don't be discouraged if the fish seem to be plotting to ruin your
plans. I've had my best laid betta breeding plans skewered by
uncooperative pairs many times.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20297 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
I would get the emperor 400 instead of the penguin. They are better
constructed and just work better. I have 2 150 gal tanks and each of them
have 2 emperor 400's. These are also planted tanks, so the combo of the
tanks and the plants keep my tanks crystal clear. Besides just filtering the
heck out of the water, it also gives me a redundant filter in case one
fails. I have had 2 of them for about 3 years now and I am just now having
to replace the impellers on the older ones. The newer Emperor's also come
with a mid-level intake. What they used to use just as a coupler between
the tubes now has slots and a cover to control the level of intake, so you
now get bottom of the tank and midlevel intake from one filter. For those
of you who have older Emperor filters, they can be ordered...or if you are
really nice to the CSR at Marine Labs...they might even do a warranty
replacement on them and send them to you free hehehe.

I had a canister filter(I think it was an Ehiem), but I found it to be too
much work to maintain and it was louder than the HOB's (I also like the
trickling water sound as the water goes over the Bio-Wheels). Granted it
was an older canister I got for free from someone, so I am sure the canister
design has improved...I just like the HOM Emperors better.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Saturday, 06 January 2007 17:03
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter



Hello,

I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting back into
it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting up. I
am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of the
tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not sure
whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure on
the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this from
your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,

Anna






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20298 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
stop the chemical warfare and put some plants in there to compete with the
algae. Algae is only really aesthetically unpleasant and really is not
harmful to the fish. Even a bacteria bloom may not be bad if the fish are
healthy. Algae and bacterial blooms will clear themselves out as the
conditions that triggered the blooms are removed or dissipated. When you
add chemicals to the water, it does stress the fish out and can cause them
to have weaker immune systems. So can moving them around Also...if they
are hanging out at the top...it could be that they are not getting enough
oxygen. Try putting a bubbler in there. How is the water temp?

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Monday, 08 January 2007 19:38
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Urgent Help Needed...



I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new platies
last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for - half
on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the little
buoy thing yesterday afternoon, and took out the carbon filter pad.
I was adding the 2nd tablet when I came home from work today and
subsequently found 3 dead fish - 1 danio (who really didn't look good
this am), 1 albino cory (apparently healthy original resident from
August) and 1 chinese algae eater. The latter two were as active as
usual this AM when I turned the light on. My other danio is really
struggling, think he'll pass tonight, but I just can't help him - I
can't cause harm to any living thing intentionally. The 2 new
platies, one from a week or so ago, and other cory seem to be fine.
The new ladies are exploring all corners of their new home and
grouping with the male in whaht I consider a good behavior pattern,
and feeding. Danio just hanging/skimming at the top, and the
other "Mr Catfish" as my 7 yr old calls him, is at usual activity
level - possibly even elevated slightly, but not really extreme for
his waking time - up and down up and down!

I don't want to lose any more of these critters - what am I doing
wrong - this was suppose to help them!!! Do I need to find another
LFS to get my stock? I rarely see dead animals in their tanks.

Well, I am going to turn off the light AND filter now. I don't want
Mr Danio to end up stuck in the intake like his little buddy did
should he lose his fight. It might me a good rest for him in his
little struggle. I'll peek in on them at 4am when DH gets ready for
work...

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquie <http://www.yourquietretreat.com> tretreat.com






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20299 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/9/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
For me that was the issue...when you had to clean them...putting them all
back together was a PIA (I did not find assembly to be easy) and then once
you had them together you had to reprime them.


Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Sunday, 07 January 2007 09:13
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter/Donna



Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20300 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
25% Water change last night, carbon in the filter, 2 more platy
deceased this am and remaining cory and platy not well - didn't even
act like it was feeding time when I turn on the light, so I skipped
this am - they were fed last night, and I can feed tonight if need
be. I figure I will probably have an empty tank tonight. I am going
to contact the makers of Lifeguard to let them know that this
happened, and see if they will do anything. Not that I expect them
to care, but it doesn't hurt to ask - especially since I followed
their directions to the letter. I am just depressed about this whole
thing. It says right on the box "May be used as a preventative when
adding new fish", which is what I did. To Prevent what, the fish??

For the Rev. to answer your questions... 6 inch bubble stone placed
at Thanksgiving and running 77/79 degrees (F).

I think what I am going to do since I will most likely have an empty
tank tonight is to dump it, clean it, add totally new gravel, cycle
it (when would I add live plants in this restart cycle?) and
basically start fresh. There is another fish store a little further
away, but I think it might be prudent to go the distance when the
time comes to buy the plants and fish (after the re-cycle is
complete).

Do I need the light and heater on when I cycle it, or just the filter?

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20301 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter
Hi Eric,

Thank you for your input on this. I haven't set up my tank yet so
still open to all suggestions.

Anna


Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> I would get the emperor 400 instead of the penguin. They are better
> constructed and just work better. I have 2 150 gal tanks and each
of them
> have 2 emperor 400's. These are also planted tanks, so the combo
of the
> tanks and the plants keep my tanks crystal clear. Besides just
filtering the
> heck out of the water, it also gives me a redundant filter in case
one
> fails. I have had 2 of them for about 3 years now and I am just
now having
> to replace the impellers on the older ones. The newer Emperor's
also come
> with a mid-level intake. What they used to use just as a coupler
between
> the tubes now has slots and a cover to control the level of intake,
so you
> now get bottom of the tank and midlevel intake from one filter.
For those
> of you who have older Emperor filters, they can be ordered...or if
you are
> really nice to the CSR at Marine Labs...they might even do a
warranty
> replacement on them and send them to you free hehehe.
>
> I had a canister filter(I think it was an Ehiem), but I found it to
be too
> much work to maintain and it was louder than the HOB's (I also like
the
> trickling water sound as the water goes over the Bio-Wheels).
Granted it
> was an older canister I got for free from someone, so I am sure the
canister
> design has improved...I just like the HOM Emperors better.
>
> Eric
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
> Sent: Saturday, 06 January 2007 17:03
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
> I have been out of the hobby for some time and am not getting back
into
> it. I have a 125 gallon aquarium I am in the process of setting up.
I
> am planning on using two Penguin Bio wheel 350's on the back of the
> tank but would also like to use a cannister filter. I am not sure
> whether to purchase a Rena Cannister filter or an Eheim, not sure
on
> the models of each either. Does anyone here have advice on this
from
> your own personal experience? Thank you in advance,
>
> Anna
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20302 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Oh Betty, I am so sorry to hear of the loss of your fish. Please
though, don't blame yourself. Those products out there; how are we
to know which are good and which are bad? Whenever I talk to people
in the pet stores, I get different answers. It is confusing and frustrating.

I recently conquered my long term (over 3 week) algae bloom problem,
which I've read does not cause health problems in the fish; you just
can't see them too well. Anyway, my aerobics instructor sent me home
from the gym one day last week with a system 1 diatomaceous earth
filter that took all of the algae out, leaving me able to finally see
all of my fish in the crystal clear tank. I cannot say enough about
that filter. And this was after being sent home from pet store after
pet store with all kinds of chemicals to remove it. I would
recommend this system 1 just to have on hand. There is also the
Vortex, which I think, after doing some research, is even better than
the system 1 in that it can be left on the tank indefinitely (vs for
4 hours at a time). Nevertheless, it works!

Like me, you too will figure out what's best in caring for your
fish. In the meantime, we're human so please don't be hard on
yourself. E-mail after e-mail from you has indicated only one thing;
you're doing your very best to be a good fish mommy! The next time
around you'll be even better at it, just like me. :-)

Be happy, be well.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!



At 08:38 PM 1/8/2007, you wrote:

>I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
>water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
>most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
>getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
>bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
>pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
>bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
>added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
>This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new platies
>last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for - half
>on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
>Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the little





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20303 From: ronno971 Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Ordering fish online
Hello everyone,

I am interested in ordering discus online and am a little nervous
about having such pricey fish shipped to my house. Is this process
usually safe and dependable? Does anyone have any suggestions before
ordering? If anyone knows of any reputable places online that would
also be very helpful.

Thanks for you help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20304 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Ermm...when you are concerned about water quality, the LAST thing you
want to do is turn off the filter overnight.

Are you testing the water? What are the results. Don't say 'the water
tested fine'. We need to know the actual numbers and what you tested
FOR. Are you testing for ph, nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia?

HOW are you testing? Often taking it into the store for testing isn't
effective as they will just use the little dip strips that you could
buy and use every day yourself for less than five bucks. I got one of
the test kits with the vials and chemicals...kinda fun to use and more
accurate than the dip strips, and I can keep an eye on the levels day
by day, so that I can nip problems in the bud.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20305 From: Wendie Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
Hello,
I have all my fish - various types - shipped in from Mark at Anubias Designs. Only
had one problem and those were replaced immediately. I've been dealing with
Mark over a year now and he's gotten me species that are extremely hard to get as
well as extremely hard to ship. I have nothing but good things to say about him and
he has a good selection of Discus from time to time. Something different than the
normal types.
Wendie


----- Original Message -----
From: ronno971
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:26 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ordering fish online


Hello everyone,

I am interested in ordering discus online and am a little nervous
about having such pricey fish shipped to my house. Is this process
usually safe and dependable? Does anyone have any suggestions before
ordering? If anyone knows of any reputable places online that would
also be very helpful.

Thanks for you help!!!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20306 From: habskahuna Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Really? I am away from home and on really slow dial-up, so I can't do
a lot of research from here, but the first few pages that came up when
I googled say that they are indeed scaleless, and I've always heard
that they are...
Either way, I would still advise caution using anything this extreme...
And Betty Lou, I would certainly not feel guilty! It may well have
been that the disease got them, not the meds. Sadly, by the time we
notice illness, it's often too late to fix it :-(

Carmen



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The cory is not a scaleless fish, and your algae eater probably is
not either.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20307 From: missheidismom Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: A Newbie
Hello Everyone,

I'm Maxine from Evans, GA, and I'm brand new to the aquarium hobby.
It's been three weeks now since I started my 10-gallon freshwater
aquarium, which contains three gouramis (a dwarf, a three-spotted,
and an opaline) and two lonesome little tetras.

I am getting concerned because the nitrogen cycle does not seem to
be kicking in, even though I've been adding Stability per the
directions on the bottle. The ammonia is at the "dangerous" level
(80 ppm). Last night I added a tablet of Ammonia Clear to the water.

I guess I can preamble all my questions with "was it a mistake
to . . . " as follows:

Was it a mistake to:

- Start with five fish for this small aquarium?
- Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
- Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
- Add Ammonia Clear to the water?

I'm using a Tetra kit, which came with a heater and filter. (The
filter has a mechanical filter cartridge and a biofilter sponge.)

Do these fish just have to endure the high ammonia levels until the
nitrogen cycle kicks in? They seem healthy and active. They gobble
up their food quickly (I'm trying not to overfeed them). The tetras
were timid at first, but they are starting to swim out more among the
gouramis.

Please pardon these elementary questions, but I know I'm not the only
beginner in the group.

Thanks,

Maxine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20308 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
> Was it a mistake to:
>
> - Start with five fish for this small aquarium?

Yes. I suggest a no fish cycle, or get a fish with a breathing
labyrinth, like a betta, to start it off...and only one fish for a
while

> - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
> slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?

Yes.

> - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
> beneficial bacteria dwell there)?

Yes

> - Add Ammonia Clear to the water?

Erm...not sure about that one, but probably, yes.

I would add a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water at the moment to
help offset the amonia problems, and yes, the fish will just have to
deal with the levels till they cycle through...which may lead to a
die off. Do not panic and start throwing chemicals at the tank.
Just mark it up to experience, let the cycle move through, and then
start again...adding one larger fish, or groups of smaller fish at a
time. Tetras need a school of about five or six to flourish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20309 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: New Member Introduction
Hi All,

My name is Sean Figueroa, I live in Southern California.

I've got about 8 years "real" experience with freshwater fish (i.e. when I started researching and learning about the fish I am keeping instead of just going to the pet store and picking pretty fish ), though I've been keeping fish tanks of some sort most of my life. About 4 months ago I began my adventure with marine tanks.

I've currently got:

100g Planted Freshwater Community (Mollys, Plattys, Tetras, etc...)
24g AquaPod Nano Reef (LPS and Softies, Skunk Cleaner and Peppermint Shrimp, 1 False Perc Clown, 1 Bangai Cardinal, 1 Purple Firefish, 1 Mural Goby - and my clean up crew)
1.5g Dwarf Puffer Species Tank
3g Pico Reef (just added my clean up crew)
120g Will be a reef, but I am still buying equipment


My aquatic history...
I recently got back from Hong Kong where I visited the Hong Kong Aquarium Plaza. Seeing the absolutely beautiful planted pico tanks there inspred me to try my hand at them; thus the 1.5g Dwarf Puffer species tank. My 100g Planted FW tank was purchased for a couple of Koi that out grew their previous 30g home. In (what seemed like) no time at all they out grew my 100g tank and I ended up giving them to a friend with a very large pond, I get to visit and they are doing very well. With my Koi gone I decided to give the tropical side a try and am very happy with my community of fish (including a small - 10 - school of neon tetras).

I've always been interested in Marine tanks (especially the beautiful reefs...), but due to the "they are a LOT of work and nearly impossible to keep" lines I'd heard from just about everyone (including LFS owners); I never really had the courage to start one. After extensive research I decided to pick up the hobby with a Nano Reef. The Nano Reef, I feel, gives the keeper a much more intimate view into reef keeping than a larger reef. They are also more challenging (due to the smaller body of water) and I figured if I could keep a Nano I'd be able to move onto a larger reef with confidence. That said, I came across an incredible deal for a 120g drilled for saltwater tank at my LFS that I just could not pass up... So, along comes my opportunity to dive into larger tank reef keeping as well. :) At seeing how much fun I've been having with my Nano and buying equipment for my 120g my wife got a little jealous... So we went out and got her a 3g Picotope for her to keep. We are working on it together, I'm teaching her what I've learned so that she can be a good reef-mommy.

And that's about it...

I very much look forward to learning from, and sharing knowledge with everyone!

Sean



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20310 From: Joseph Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
You want to find places that have good guranties on shipping the
specimens. www.liveaquaria.com has a good one.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ronno971" <ronno971@...> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am interested in ordering discus online and am a little nervous
> about having such pricey fish shipped to my house. Is this process
> usually safe and dependable? Does anyone have any suggestions before
> ordering? If anyone knows of any reputable places online that would
> also be very helpful.
>
> Thanks for you help!!!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20311 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on Filter/Donna
Not an issue with the new ones…power filter vs canister, same # of parts to
take apart and reassemble, and they prime themselves.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rev. Eric Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 1:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter/Donna



For me that was the issue...when you had to clean them...putting them all
back together was a PIA (I did not find assembly to be easy) and then once
you had them together you had to reprime them.


Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Sunday, 07 January 2007 09:13
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Setting up 125 Gal. Aquarium need advice on
Filter/Donna

Hi Donna,

Did you find that both cannisters were easy to assemble and easy to
clean? It sounds like they are both very similar to one another.
Thanks,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have both on my 125G, an Eheim Ecco with 90 gallon capacity and
an XP3
> with 120 gallon capacity. I like them both, my impression is the
XP3 is
> less expensive, but the Eheim is better made (will last longer).
I've only
> had them a couple of months, so I won't know if Eheim's claim is
true for a
> couple of years (I hope).
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20312 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
I’ve never done discus, but I’ve ordered from a variety of sellers, both
private on Aquabid and online retailers. I usually like to be home to
receive the order, or my adult children have called me and I ran home once
when I was working closeby.



They come in with some fin damage (mbuna are fighters), but they heal right
up in the quarantine tank.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ronno971
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ordering fish online



Hello everyone,

I am interested in ordering discus online and am a little nervous
about having such pricey fish shipped to my house. Is this process
usually safe and dependable? Does anyone have any suggestions before
ordering? If anyone knows of any reputable places online that would
also be very helpful.

Thanks for you help!!!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20313 From: figueroa_sean Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Sounds like your tank is going through a cycle. Unfortunately after
the ammonia spike you're going to see a nitrite spike. Both are toxic
to your fish, so you will probably see some die off during that period.

If possible, I would recommend taking the fish back to the pet store
and seeing if they can hold them for you until you complete your
cycle. Some of the smaller local stores will do this, but if you got
them at a chain (i.e. PetCo or PetSmart) you may not have this option.

You may try Biospora, though I've heard mixed reviews on the product.
Another option would be to get a bio wheel or some filtration media
from an established tank and let it sit in your tank for a while to
help kick off the bacteria colonization.

Good luck, let us know how it works out...

Sean

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "missheidismom" <aquamaxine@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I'm Maxine from Evans, GA, and I'm brand new to the aquarium hobby.
> It's been three weeks now since I started my 10-gallon freshwater
> aquarium, which contains three gouramis (a dwarf, a three-spotted,
> and an opaline) and two lonesome little tetras.
>
> I am getting concerned because the nitrogen cycle does not seem to
> be kicking in, even though I've been adding Stability per the
> directions on the bottle. The ammonia is at the "dangerous" level
> (80 ppm). Last night I added a tablet of Ammonia Clear to the water.
>
> I guess I can preamble all my questions with "was it a mistake
> to . . . " as follows:
>
> Was it a mistake to:
>
> - Start with five fish for this small aquarium?
> - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
> slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
> - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
> beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
> - Add Ammonia Clear to the water?
>
> I'm using a Tetra kit, which came with a heater and filter. (The
> filter has a mechanical filter cartridge and a biofilter sponge.)
>
> Do these fish just have to endure the high ammonia levels until the
> nitrogen cycle kicks in? They seem healthy and active. They gobble
> up their food quickly (I'm trying not to overfeed them). The tetras
> were timid at first, but they are starting to swim out more among the
> gouramis.
>
> Please pardon these elementary questions, but I know I'm not the only
> beginner in the group.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Maxine
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20314 From: Karen Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ordering fish online
I have had bettas shipped to me from Thailand with no problem. Just pay
attention to the weather at the time of shipping and buy from an
experienced source.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Urgent Help Needed...
Diatomaceous earth filters are not meant to be run full time. They are
used mainly for "polishing" the water in the tank, giving it that
"crystal clear" look that so many people desire. They are meant to be
only run for a few hours at a time, and to remove debris that is too
small to be captured by normal filtering methods. It is foolhardy to try
to use them for any length of time, or for any other reason. They will
clog far faster than a normal filter, and are not as easy to maintain.

I do own a Vortex, but I seldom use it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Urgent Help Needed...

Oh Betty, I am so sorry to hear of the loss of your fish. Please
though, don't blame yourself. Those products out there; how are we
to know which are good and which are bad? Whenever I talk to people
in the pet stores, I get different answers. It is confusing and
frustrating.

I recently conquered my long term (over 3 week) algae bloom problem,
which I've read does not cause health problems in the fish; you just
can't see them too well. Anyway, my aerobics instructor sent me home
from the gym one day last week with a system 1 diatomaceous earth
filter that took all of the algae out, leaving me able to finally see
all of my fish in the crystal clear tank. I cannot say enough about
that filter. And this was after being sent home from pet store after
pet store with all kinds of chemicals to remove it. I would
recommend this system 1 just to have on hand. There is also the
Vortex, which I think, after doing some research, is even better than
the system 1 in that it can be left on the tank indefinitely (vs for
4 hours at a time). Nevertheless, it works!

Like me, you too will figure out what's best in caring for your
fish. In the meantime, we're human so please don't be hard on
yourself. E-mail after e-mail from you has indicated only one thing;
you're doing your very best to be a good fish mommy! The next time
around you'll be even better at it, just like me. :-)

Be happy, be well.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f
207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!



At 08:38 PM 1/8/2007, you wrote:

>I have been loosing fish one by one recently, I thought it was the
>water quality, but that tested "well", except that it is cloudy -
>most likely algae bloom, when I took a sample to the LFS. After
>getting a good report for that, I moved the 10 gal aquarium to our
>bedroom - the darkest room in the house even without the drapes
>pulled. We have kept the drapes pulled this week to try to get the
>bloom controlled along with 16 Algae destroyer drops every 3 days (
>added some yesterday AM before I went to get the other treatment.
>This was last Tuesday that I moved it. I brought home 2 new platies
>last night and half and preventative as it says it is good for - half
>on a hunch that I may have a bad bacteria I also bought some
>Lifeguard All In One Treatment. I put the first tablet in the little
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lifeguard
Technically, that is correct. I think I may have found one of the
references you mention in about.com, not a real good reference area,
IMHO. Corydoras, and other members of the Callichthyidae family as well
as the Locicariidae are armored catfish, that have bony plates other
than scales, however, they are not subject to many of the "rules" for
scaleless fish nor are members of any scaleless group of fishes.

The first point brought up in the about.com article is that salt is not
to be used with Corydoras in the tank. This is false. Corydoras can
withstand the use of salt when it is used as a curative, though they may
not do as well in a tank that uses salt as a prophylactic. The basis for
this "rule" is that many Corydoras come from salt free waters, which is
very soft and acidic. Water that does not have much in the way of
buffering capability.

Yes, dial-up is slow when compared to the speeds afforded by broadband
connections. However, when it is the only thing you have, you make do
with what you have. I remember connecting to bulletin boards at 300 baud
(approximately 300 bits per second), and learning some wonderful stuff.
Of course, it was no substitution for printed material, except for the
latest news, and the same holds today, even when I am connected through
a 10 megabit line at my office. It just means I can find the baloney and
the good stuff faster.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of habskahuna
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Lifeguard

Really? I am away from home and on really slow dial-up, so I can't do
a lot of research from here, but the first few pages that came up when
I googled say that they are indeed scaleless, and I've always heard
that they are...
Either way, I would still advise caution using anything this extreme...
And Betty Lou, I would certainly not feel guilty! It may well have
been that the disease got them, not the meds. Sadly, by the time we
notice illness, it's often too late to fix it :-(

Carmen



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The cory is not a scaleless fish, and your algae eater probably is
not either.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20317 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/10/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
I prefer to do a fishless cycle in my tanks, but, since you already have
the fish. . ..

Addressing your questions (I've taken the liberty of numbering them):

1. The real mistake was starting with that small a tank. You should have
gone with the largest tank you can afford and have space for. The
reasoning behind this is that it gives you, and your fish, a much larger
room for error, and as a novice, you will make errors. I do not like
your selection of fish. You have three fish (the gouramis) that are, or
will become aggressive, in that tank. You also have two tetras--you do
not mention the type, that very likely come from very different water
than the gouramis. The gouramis, for sure, can take more abuse that the
tetras, most likely. You do not mention the present size of your fish,
but two of the gouramis will outgrow your tank--the three-spot and the
opaline. Again, not knowing the tetras you have, I cannot say, but
likely they are fish that will stay relatively small.

2. A weekly water change of up to 25% would be sufficient. It will not
interrupt the establishment of your cycle, and give the fish fresh water
to fouls <g>.

3. Absolutely vacuum at least 1/4 of the area of the substrate during
your water changes. This will help prevent the establishment of
anaerobic bacteria that can cause harm to your fish by the by products
of the work they do.

4. Do not add Ammonia Clear to the water. It is of an unknown chemical
composition, and may not make ammonia available to the bacteria you are
trying to establish. The only product that I know that works to
neutralize ammonia, yet leave it available for the start (or
continuation) of the nitrogen cycle is now markets by Hikari under the
label Ultimate or, if Ultimate is more than you need, ClorAm-X. Read the
bottle carefully as it affects the results for certain test kits, such
as ammonia test kits using Nesslar reagents.

Get yourself a good book or two about keeping fish. I'd recommend the
Baensch Aquarium Atlas as your first book. You can find it on Amazon if
your local retailer does not carry it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of missheidismom
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 12:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A Newbie

Hello Everyone,

I'm Maxine from Evans, GA, and I'm brand new to the aquarium hobby.
It's been three weeks now since I started my 10-gallon freshwater
aquarium, which contains three gouramis (a dwarf, a three-spotted,
and an opaline) and two lonesome little tetras.

I am getting concerned because the nitrogen cycle does not seem to
be kicking in, even though I've been adding Stability per the
directions on the bottle. The ammonia is at the "dangerous" level
(80 ppm). Last night I added a tablet of Ammonia Clear to the water.

I guess I can preamble all my questions with "was it a mistake
to . . . " as follows:

Was it a mistake to:

- Start with five fish for this small aquarium?
- Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
- Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
- Add Ammonia Clear to the water?

I'm using a Tetra kit, which came with a heater and filter. (The
filter has a mechanical filter cartridge and a biofilter sponge.)

Do these fish just have to endure the high ammonia levels until the
nitrogen cycle kicks in? They seem healthy and active. They gobble
up their food quickly (I'm trying not to overfeed them). The tetras
were timid at first, but they are starting to swim out more among the
gouramis.

Please pardon these elementary questions, but I know I'm not the only
beginner in the group.

Thanks,

Maxine
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20318 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Cynthia,

With regard to this question you answered,:

> - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
> slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?

Yes.

Exactly how does doing proper maintenance inhibit the establishment of
the cycle?

Also, how does:

> - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
> beneficial bacteria dwell there)?

Yes

Affect the cycle. Even with an undergravel filter, it does not, and is a
good maintenance practice.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A Newbie


> Was it a mistake to:
>
> - Start with five fish for this small aquarium?

Yes. I suggest a no fish cycle, or get a fish with a breathing
labyrinth, like a betta, to start it off...and only one fish for a
while

> - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that may
> slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?

Yes.

> - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
> beneficial bacteria dwell there)?

Yes

> - Add Ammonia Clear to the water?

Erm...not sure about that one, but probably, yes.

I would add a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water at the moment to
help offset the amonia problems, and yes, the fish will just have to
deal with the levels till they cycle through...which may lead to a
die off. Do not panic and start throwing chemicals at the tank.
Just mark it up to experience, let the cycle move through, and then
start again...adding one larger fish, or groups of smaller fish at a
time. Tetras need a school of about five or six to flourish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20319 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
It slows down the cycle, which, if you are trying to populate a tank
right away, is a mistake. It won't HALT the cycle, but it does slow
it down. I've been experimenting on my new tanks, using a cycle
product vs no cycle product, doing water changes vs no water
changes...etc... The quickest way to get a cycle to move through and
become stabil is to use an old filter from an established tank, use a
cycle product, and do not change water or vacuum till the cycle is
completed. After that, business as usual is fine.

> Cynthia,
>
> With regard to this question you answered,:
>
> > - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that
may
> > slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
>
> Yes.
>
> Exactly how does doing proper maintenance inhibit the establishment
of
> the cycle?
>
> Also, how does:
>
> > - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of
the
> > beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
>
> Yes
>
> Affect the cycle. Even with an undergravel filter, it does not, and
is a
> good maintenance practice.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20320 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Of course, come to think of it, I've been thinking of better as a
faster cycle...but it could very well be that the faster cycle is
harder on the fish. Not sure...Which is worse, prolonged bad
conditions? Or faster fluctuations?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20321 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: cO2 systems
What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought one
and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the plants
won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
are at work.

Thanks
Adrian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20322 From: missheidismom Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Steve, Cynthia, and Sean -

Thanks for your helpful comments.

I could no longer bear to expose these fish to such a high ammonia
level, so I changed 25% of the water this morning. That reduced the
level, but there still is ammonia in there for the bacteria to feed
on . . . if they would only come!

I have also ordered a Penguin filter with a bio-wheel, thinking that
the tank could use a more efficient filter and one that accommodated
the bacteria better. Now the question is, when it arrives, do I just
mount it on the tank and let both filters operate for a while?

The three-spot gourami is about 3 inches long; he is the largest of the
three and the boss of the tank. He chases the other gouramis around,
especially at feeding time, but he doesn't bother the tetras (a serpae
and a red-eyed). So far, no fin-nipping or other injuries, though.

I purchased these fish from a LFS, where they said this collection
would get along fine and would not strain the system. I was concerned
about the tetras not being in a group and did ask about that.

My plan is eventually to have a tank large enough for a collection of
(adult-sized) gouramis. Maybe the 10-gallon tank could then house a
couple small schools of tetras.

Wish me luck. I am enjoying this group very much.


Maxine






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Of course, come to think of it, I've been thinking of better as a
> faster cycle...but it could very well be that the faster cycle is
> harder on the fish. Not sure...Which is worse, prolonged bad
> conditions? Or faster fluctuations?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20323 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
Why do you leave the light off in the tank while you are at work?

And C02 systems do make a difference in the growth rate of many
plants. I just use the pop bottle with yeast and sugar and an air tube
for mine, and I don't do it often. But the purchased systems look a
lot better

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20324 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought
one
> and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the
plants
> won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
> are at work.
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
>
When I had freshwater (I miss my planted tanks) I used the DIY 2 Litre
pop bottle CO2 version with good results. Can you use a timer to let
your tank have a good light cycle?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20325 From: Karen Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought
one
> and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the
plants
> won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
> are at work.
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
>
When I had freshwater (I miss my planted tanks) I used the DIY 2 Litre
pop bottle CO2 version with good results. Can you use a timer to let
your tank have a good light cycle?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20326 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
While that amount of fish shouldn't really strain the system, it should
not be used to jump start a system. I leave my tanks fish free for two
weeks to a month before introducing them, a few at a time.

Not sure what you should do, now. If it were me, I think I'd get
another tank and cycle that one normally, while doing daily water
changes on the current tank. Then move the fish over to the cycled
tank once it's done, and let the small tank cycle, too.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20327 From: callie143 Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
I'll just throw this in here and then wish you luck.

Recently I moved a betta and a couple of cories from the small 2.5
gallons I had rec'd them in to a larger 10 gallon. Knowing full well
that there was going to be a 'cycling issue' I used the rock from the
old tank, plus put their old filter in the tank along side the new
filter. (the old filter was not near big enough to handle the 10g.)

I was hoping that this would really speed up the cycling process. But
everytime I took measurements there was still ammonia out the roof.
It was so off the charts that I was doing a 20% water change every day.

This went on for about three weeks without change... which made me
suspect the testing kit I had was not accurate. (it had no exprired,
and I'd used this brand before) So I got another kit.

Sure enough - the tank had already cycled. The test kit was faulty.

Moral of the story I suppose is to trust your instincts, and that test
kits can be defective. All the inhabitants survived their 20% daily
water changes with no ill effects that I can see. But what a pain for
all involved...

Good luck with yours - I hope for a fast cycling as well. It might
not hurt to check around and see if there is someone in your area that
might have some established media to speed things up that they could
give you.

I keep an extra 2in x 3in simple sponge filter in my 30g tanks filter
for just this purpose... That way when I decide to get another tank
(and I will, I'm addicted) I can use this extra sponge to speed up
cycling as well... or keep it to use in the small 2.5 as a hopital
tank, should the need ever come up.

BTW - I have 5 serae tetras and a dwarf pearl blue gournami in a tank
(along with other fish) and there has never been a problem with
comapatibility.)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "missheidismom" <aquamaxine@...>
wrote:
>
> Steve, Cynthia, and Sean -
>
> Thanks for your helpful comments.
>
> I could no longer bear to expose these fish to such a high ammonia
> level, so I changed 25% of the water this morning. That reduced the
> level, but there still is ammonia in there for the bacteria to feed
> on . . . if they would only come!
>
> I have also ordered a Penguin filter with a bio-wheel, thinking that
> the tank could use a more efficient filter and one that accommodated
> the bacteria better. Now the question is, when it arrives, do I just
> mount it on the tank and let both filters operate for a while?
>
> The three-spot gourami is about 3 inches long; he is the largest of the
> three and the boss of the tank. He chases the other gouramis around,
> especially at feeding time, but he doesn't bother the tetras (a serpae
> and a red-eyed). So far, no fin-nipping or other injuries, though.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20328 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
I did that as well and really didn't notice a difference from when I had it
and when I didn't in the health of my plants. I have 2 55 gallon tanks that
are planted and the plants do quite well just of the CO2 given off by the
fish. I also use a timer to keep my tank lights on from 7am to 11 pm.
Timex makes some good small and cheap digital timers that are great for this
purpose. I just plugged in a power strip (a multi-plug adapter could work
too) into it and plugged in my lights into it.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2007 12:31
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cO2 systems



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought
one
> and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the
plants
> won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
> are at work.
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
>
When I had freshwater (I miss my planted tanks) I used the DIY 2 Litre
pop bottle CO2 version with good results. Can you use a timer to let
your tank have a good light cycle?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20329 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
If one does a fishless cycle, no water changes are necessary. However, with fish in the tank, one does need to do water changes to remove other waste products that will affect the fish. It will also lessen the amount of nitrogenous wastes in the tank the fish need to deal with during the establishment of the cycle. I do not believe that it will prevent the establishment of the cycle or slow it down, unless the bacteria are peaking to handle the ammonia or nitrite load in the tank. That point can be established by taking regular water samples and testing them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of cynthia brennemann
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 10:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A Newbie

It slows down the cycle, which, if you are trying to populate a tank
right away, is a mistake. It won't HALT the cycle, but it does slow
it down. I've been experimenting on my new tanks, using a cycle
product vs no cycle product, doing water changes vs no water
changes...etc... The quickest way to get a cycle to move through and
become stabil is to use an old filter from an established tank, use a
cycle product, and do not change water or vacuum till the cycle is
completed. After that, business as usual is fine.

> Cynthia,
>
> With regard to this question you answered,:
>
> > - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that
may
> > slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
>
> Yes.
>
> Exactly how does doing proper maintenance inhibit the establishment
of
> the cycle?
>
> Also, how does:
>
> > - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of
the
> > beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
>
> Yes
>
> Affect the cycle. Even with an undergravel filter, it does not, and
is a
> good maintenance practice.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20330 From: callie143 Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
i have my tanks on a reverse rotation. They are off during the day
(in a room that does not get much natural light) and don't go on until
I get home from work - about 6pm. I leave them on all evening and
through the night, turn them off when I get up and ready for the work
the next morning at 4pm.

I've done this for ages, and it's worked out great....

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought one
> and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the plants
> won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
> are at work.
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20331 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
I use a timer on my marine tank, but not my FW tanks, I usually just turn those light on and off myself. The result is a 12 - 14hr photo period for the plants/fish.

I've been thinking about getting a co2 system for my 100g planted tank. How difficult / expensive is a good co2 system? Does anyone have a link to the DIY coke bottle, yeast, and sugar method?


----- Original Message -----
From: Rev. Eric Roberts
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cO2 systems


I did that as well and really didn't notice a difference from when I had it
and when I didn't in the health of my plants. I have 2 55 gallon tanks that
are planted and the plants do quite well just of the CO2 given off by the
fish. I also use a timer to keep my tank lights on from 7am to 11 pm.
Timex makes some good small and cheap digital timers that are great for this
purpose. I just plugged in a power strip (a multi-plug adapter could work
too) into it and plugged in my lights into it.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2007 12:31
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cO2 systems

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought
one
> and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the
plants
> won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
> are at work.
>
> Thanks
> Adrian
>
When I had freshwater (I miss my planted tanks) I used the DIY 2 Litre
pop bottle CO2 version with good results. Can you use a timer to let
your tank have a good light cycle?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20332 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
True. I guess I just prefer a fishless, or one fish cycle to the
vaguaries of a fish load cycle.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20333 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
See I think the person I live with who is a veternarian(sp) is a tad
bit paranoid that the tank light will catch on fire... which is why
we do not leave it on while we are gone during the day. I think I
will try putting it on a timer, to come on at like 6pm and shut off
in the morning, so it is on while we are there. The room gets very
little natural light during the day.

I got a cO2 system at PetSmart for $36. But Dr Fosters and Smith has
tons of them that look very nice also, priced about the same.

Thanks for the advice, I'm gonna keep the light on alot more from now
on!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> I use a timer on my marine tank, but not my FW tanks, I usually
just turn those light on and off myself. The result is a 12 - 14hr
photo period for the plants/fish.
>
> I've been thinking about getting a co2 system for my 100g planted
tank. How difficult / expensive is a good co2 system? Does anyone
have a link to the DIY coke bottle, yeast, and sugar method?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Rev. Eric Roberts
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 10:59 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cO2 systems
>
>
> I did that as well and really didn't notice a difference from
when I had it
> and when I didn't in the health of my plants. I have 2 55 gallon
tanks that
> are planted and the plants do quite well just of the CO2 given
off by the
> fish. I also use a timer to keep my tank lights on from 7am to 11
pm.
> Timex makes some good small and cheap digital timers that are
great for this
> purpose. I just plugged in a power strip (a multi-plug adapter
could work
> too) into it and plugged in my lights into it.
>
> Eric
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Karen
> Sent: Thursday, 11 January 2007 12:31
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cO2 systems
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@> wrote:
> >
> > What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just
bought
> one
> > and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
> > My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the
> plants
> > won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank
while we
> > are at work.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Adrian
> >
> When I had freshwater (I miss my planted tanks) I used the DIY 2
Litre
> pop bottle CO2 version with good results. Can you use a timer to
let
> your tank have a good light cycle?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20334 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Salt Water Tanks
This is definately a beginner question.
I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring time and
I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?

Sorry for the lame question
Adrian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20335 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
No matter what anyone says, I've found my experience and disciplines with freshwater tanks have been a huge boon in my keeping a reef tank. Doing regular water changes, monitoring water parameters, and all the regular maintenance that are involved with freshwater are the same for saltwater tanks.

That said, how difficult the tank is to keep depends on what it is you want to keep. If you plan on doing a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) tank the overall demands are much less than a full on reef system.

You mentioned you wanted to start a "larger salt water tank". Which tank size were you looking for? Were you planning on running a sump (hang on the back or under the tank)? What are you planning on keeping? Just fish? Corals and inverts? If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts your cost will go up dramatically. The lighting and water flow requirements for them are much greater than a fish only tank. If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts, then you'll have to decide which type. Just softies (mushrooms, zoas, GSP - Green Star Polyps), LPS (Large Polyped Stony), or the even more challenging SPS (Small Polyped Stony)? Your lighting and flow requirements will be dictated by which types of corals you intend to keep.

Beyond just lighting there are equipment costs. You'll want a good protien skimmer no matter which type of larger system you are plannign on getting. Nano tanks can go skimmerless as weekly water changes can handle nutrient export, though even a nano can benefit from a good skimmer. If you are planning on keeping more challenging corals and inverts (i.e. clams, anenomes, and SPS) you'll need to dose (calcium and iodine to name just a couple).

Research becomes even more important with SW when you start stocking your tank. There are tons of species of corals, anenomes, and clams that are commonly available that will quickly outgrow even the largest tank. Some corals (some of the LPS - hammer coral, bubble coral, and frogspawn to name a few - come to mind) have long sweeper tentacles that will sting and eventually kill their tankmates, so they need to be placed at a safe distance from neighboring inverts. Some anenomes will wander the tank and sting corals as well.

IMHO there is no tank more beautiful than a well established and cared for reef tank (though I've seen some planted FW tanks that put up a DARN GOOD fight). Do your research, ask questions, and HAVE FUN! :)

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: alsarkozy
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:21 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt Water Tanks


This is definately a beginner question.
I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring time and
I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?

Sorry for the lame question
Adrian





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20336 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Honestly, Brad thinks that a SW tank is partially cruel because the
fish and coral's are captured from the wild. I have been looking at
some tank grown fish on fosters and smith.
At this point in my planning stage, I'm really just looking. I dont
want to purchase a huge 120 gallon and then move into the new house
and have no where to put it. So really until spring time, I'm just
going to try and learn as much as possible before I invest the money.
The only animal in the tank that I would really like is a Snow Flake
eel and a Humu Picasso Triggerfish.

Thanks for the advice. Let me know if anyone wants one of the Betta
babies (assuming everything goes as planned)


Adrian






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> No matter what anyone says, I've found my experience and
disciplines with freshwater tanks have been a huge boon in my keeping
a reef tank. Doing regular water changes, monitoring water
parameters, and all the regular maintenance that are involved with
freshwater are the same for saltwater tanks.
>
> That said, how difficult the tank is to keep depends on what it is
you want to keep. If you plan on doing a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live
Rock) tank the overall demands are much less than a full on reef
system.
>
> You mentioned you wanted to start a "larger salt water tank".
Which tank size were you looking for? Were you planning on running a
sump (hang on the back or under the tank)? What are you planning on
keeping? Just fish? Corals and inverts? If you are planning on
keeping corals and inverts your cost will go up dramatically. The
lighting and water flow requirements for them are much greater than a
fish only tank. If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts,
then you'll have to decide which type. Just softies (mushrooms,
zoas, GSP - Green Star Polyps), LPS (Large Polyped Stony), or the
even more challenging SPS (Small Polyped Stony)? Your lighting and
flow requirements will be dictated by which types of corals you
intend to keep.
>
> Beyond just lighting there are equipment costs. You'll want a good
protien skimmer no matter which type of larger system you are
plannign on getting. Nano tanks can go skimmerless as weekly water
changes can handle nutrient export, though even a nano can benefit
from a good skimmer. If you are planning on keeping more challenging
corals and inverts (i.e. clams, anenomes, and SPS) you'll need to
dose (calcium and iodine to name just a couple).
>
> Research becomes even more important with SW when you start
stocking your tank. There are tons of species of corals, anenomes,
and clams that are commonly available that will quickly outgrow even
the largest tank. Some corals (some of the LPS - hammer coral,
bubble coral, and frogspawn to name a few - come to mind) have long
sweeper tentacles that will sting and eventually kill their
tankmates, so they need to be placed at a safe distance from
neighboring inverts. Some anenomes will wander the tank and sting
corals as well.
>
> IMHO there is no tank more beautiful than a well established and
cared for reef tank (though I've seen some planted FW tanks that put
up a DARN GOOD fight). Do your research, ask questions, and HAVE
FUN! :)
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions!
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alsarkozy
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:21 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt Water Tanks
>
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring
time and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20337 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
SW tanks are not the only ones who can potentially have wild caught fish. Some cichlids come to mind. That said there have been quite a few advancements in propogating inverts and tank breeding fish. IMHO part of being a responsible reef / SW tank keeper is making every effort to purchase tank raised livestock. If you get involved in a local reef club you can even begin "fragging" and trading species with other members from their tanks.

Overall the SW and reef keeping hobby is not even a drop in the bucket compared to other environmental issues that are threatening the coral reefs. It can even be argued that hobbyists have been beneficial (by watching their livestock, learning breeding and reproductive habbits, and then sharing that information). Even though that is the case, we are all ultimately responsible for insuring our hobby is not a destructive one and making responsible purchases.

This is a great book to begin with:
http://www.amazon.com/Conscientious-Marine-Aquarist-Commonsense-Successful/dp/1890087033/sr=1-1/qid=1168549840/ref=sr_1_1/102-4216929-3523305?ie=UTF8&s=books

Have fun! :)

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: alsarkozy
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt Water Tanks


Honestly, Brad thinks that a SW tank is partially cruel because the
fish and coral's are captured from the wild. I have been looking at
some tank grown fish on fosters and smith.
At this point in my planning stage, I'm really just looking. I dont
want to purchase a huge 120 gallon and then move into the new house
and have no where to put it. So really until spring time, I'm just
going to try and learn as much as possible before I invest the money.
The only animal in the tank that I would really like is a Snow Flake
eel and a Humu Picasso Triggerfish.

Thanks for the advice. Let me know if anyone wants one of the Betta
babies (assuming everything goes as planned)

Adrian

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> No matter what anyone says, I've found my experience and
disciplines with freshwater tanks have been a huge boon in my keeping
a reef tank. Doing regular water changes, monitoring water
parameters, and all the regular maintenance that are involved with
freshwater are the same for saltwater tanks.
>
> That said, how difficult the tank is to keep depends on what it is
you want to keep. If you plan on doing a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live
Rock) tank the overall demands are much less than a full on reef
system.
>
> You mentioned you wanted to start a "larger salt water tank".
Which tank size were you looking for? Were you planning on running a
sump (hang on the back or under the tank)? What are you planning on
keeping? Just fish? Corals and inverts? If you are planning on
keeping corals and inverts your cost will go up dramatically. The
lighting and water flow requirements for them are much greater than a
fish only tank. If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts,
then you'll have to decide which type. Just softies (mushrooms,
zoas, GSP - Green Star Polyps), LPS (Large Polyped Stony), or the
even more challenging SPS (Small Polyped Stony)? Your lighting and
flow requirements will be dictated by which types of corals you
intend to keep.
>
> Beyond just lighting there are equipment costs. You'll want a good
protien skimmer no matter which type of larger system you are
plannign on getting. Nano tanks can go skimmerless as weekly water
changes can handle nutrient export, though even a nano can benefit
from a good skimmer. If you are planning on keeping more challenging
corals and inverts (i.e. clams, anenomes, and SPS) you'll need to
dose (calcium and iodine to name just a couple).
>
> Research becomes even more important with SW when you start
stocking your tank. There are tons of species of corals, anenomes,
and clams that are commonly available that will quickly outgrow even
the largest tank. Some corals (some of the LPS - hammer coral,
bubble coral, and frogspawn to name a few - come to mind) have long
sweeper tentacles that will sting and eventually kill their
tankmates, so they need to be placed at a safe distance from
neighboring inverts. Some anenomes will wander the tank and sting
corals as well.
>
> IMHO there is no tank more beautiful than a well established and
cared for reef tank (though I've seen some planted FW tanks that put
up a DARN GOOD fight). Do your research, ask questions, and HAVE
FUN! :)
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions!
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alsarkozy
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:21 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt Water Tanks
>
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring
time and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20338 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: New to Reef
I live in Marina, Calif. I am going to buy a tank and want to have a
reef tank. Would like someone who would answer my question. Email or
phone is good for me! Please help ME!!

Julie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20339 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to Reef
I will do my best to answer any questions you have, feel free to contact me or post in the group. If you haven't read the "Salt Water Tanks" thread you can check that out as well.

As I stated in the "Salt Water Tanks" thread I would hightly recommend this book as a great starting place:

http://www.amazon.com/Conscientious-Marine-Aquarist-Commonsense-Successful/dp/1890087033/sr=1-1/qid=1168549840/ref=sr_1_1/102-4216929-3523305?ie=UTF8&s=books

You should also check out:

http://www.reefcentral.com/

A lot of great information there as well as some very knowledgable members of their forums.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Julie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to Reef


I live in Marina, Calif. I am going to buy a tank and want to have a
reef tank. Would like someone who would answer my question. Email or
phone is good for me! Please help ME!!

Julie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20340 From: Joe Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring time
and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>

Hey Adrian
To answer your question,,Not at all.IMO you just have go slower and
keep a little bit closer eye on your water conditions. Fish only,all
you got to watch is the specific gravity, just remember to top off with
fresh water. preferbly ro/di water.
Check out www.livingreefs.com alot of info there.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20341 From: Joe Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to Reef
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> I live in Marina, Calif. I am going to buy a tank and want to have a
> reef tank. Would like someone who would answer my question. Email
or
> phone is good for me! Please help ME!!
>
> Julie
>
I'll do my best to answer your questions
yotehunter76 @ yahoo dot com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20342 From: jeanie stone Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
I have a 200 gal reef tank , with coral and 15 fish right now , you have to get tests for calcium and alk. but , after 2 - 3 months , you will be wanting to find out how to stop all the coral from growing ! it beautifull and fun , good luck

Joe <yotehunter76@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring time
and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>

Hey Adrian
To answer your question,,Not at all.IMO you just have go slower and
keep a little bit closer eye on your water conditions. Fish only,all
you got to watch is the specific gravity, just remember to top off with
fresh water. preferbly ro/di water.
Check out www.livingreefs.com alot of info there.






---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20343 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Callie,
Excellent idea, I do the same thing. I have around 20 tanks going and several have an extra sponge filter going as I like to start up a tank right away. I never know what I am going to pickup at a fish club auction.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: callie143@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 10:48 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A Newbie



I keep an extra 2in x 3in simple sponge filter in my 30g tanks filter
for just this purpose... That way when I decide to get another tank
(and I will, I'm addicted) I can use this extra sponge to speed up
cycling as well... or keep it to use in the small 2.5 as a hopital
tank, should the need ever come up.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20344 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: cO2 systems
I see that everyone else has told you about the need for light when you
grow plants. You do need about 12-14 hours of light for the plants to do
well, CO2 or no CO2. The use of carbon dioxide has been shown to improve
the growth of plants. One thing to watch, though, is your pH. The CO2
will combine with your water (putting it very simply) and the end result
will be various carbonate products, including carbonic acid, which will
lower your pH. Most use pH as a guide to how much CO2 to
add--surprisingly little will do it for you.

Before you get too caught up in this, you may want to take a few breaths
and do some research on growing plants. The Aquatic Gardeners have a
wealth of information on their site (http://www.aquatic-gardens.org) and
that information will definitely help you. Don't get overwhelmed with
the information, these guys have been at it for some time, and are quite
serious about it. Take little baby steps.

Check the information about lighting, fertilizing (with the growth you
can get with CO2, you will need fertilizer), and CO2 injection.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of alsarkozy
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 12:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cO2 systems

What do you guys think of cO2 systems for aquariums? I just bought one
and am not sure if I just got ripped off or not.
My concern with my newley started planted aquarium, is that the plants
won't get enough light because the light is off on the tank while we
are at work.

Thanks
Adrian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20345 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Adrian,

Do your homework on this and you can fully populate a reef tank or a
fish only tank with captive bred specimens. Live rock is farmed in the
ocean (actually mostly the Gulf of Mexico), many corals are propagated
via a method similar to cuttings from plants, more and more inverts are
captive bred, as are more and more fish. The amount of captive bred fish
is limited, at least for now, mainly due to the pelagic stage many
species go through, but people are working on it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of alsarkozy
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt Water Tanks

Honestly, Brad thinks that a SW tank is partially cruel because the
fish and coral's are captured from the wild. I have been looking at
some tank grown fish on fosters and smith.
At this point in my planning stage, I'm really just looking. I dont
want to purchase a huge 120 gallon and then move into the new house
and have no where to put it. So really until spring time, I'm just
going to try and learn as much as possible before I invest the money.
The only animal in the tank that I would really like is a Snow Flake
eel and a Humu Picasso Triggerfish.

Thanks for the advice. Let me know if anyone wants one of the Betta
babies (assuming everything goes as planned)


Adrian






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> No matter what anyone says, I've found my experience and
disciplines with freshwater tanks have been a huge boon in my keeping
a reef tank. Doing regular water changes, monitoring water
parameters, and all the regular maintenance that are involved with
freshwater are the same for saltwater tanks.
>
> That said, how difficult the tank is to keep depends on what it is
you want to keep. If you plan on doing a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live
Rock) tank the overall demands are much less than a full on reef
system.
>
> You mentioned you wanted to start a "larger salt water tank".
Which tank size were you looking for? Were you planning on running a
sump (hang on the back or under the tank)? What are you planning on
keeping? Just fish? Corals and inverts? If you are planning on
keeping corals and inverts your cost will go up dramatically. The
lighting and water flow requirements for them are much greater than a
fish only tank. If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts,
then you'll have to decide which type. Just softies (mushrooms,
zoas, GSP - Green Star Polyps), LPS (Large Polyped Stony), or the
even more challenging SPS (Small Polyped Stony)? Your lighting and
flow requirements will be dictated by which types of corals you
intend to keep.
>
> Beyond just lighting there are equipment costs. You'll want a good
protien skimmer no matter which type of larger system you are
plannign on getting. Nano tanks can go skimmerless as weekly water
changes can handle nutrient export, though even a nano can benefit
from a good skimmer. If you are planning on keeping more challenging
corals and inverts (i.e. clams, anenomes, and SPS) you'll need to
dose (calcium and iodine to name just a couple).
>
> Research becomes even more important with SW when you start
stocking your tank. There are tons of species of corals, anenomes,
and clams that are commonly available that will quickly outgrow even
the largest tank. Some corals (some of the LPS - hammer coral,
bubble coral, and frogspawn to name a few - come to mind) have long
sweeper tentacles that will sting and eventually kill their
tankmates, so they need to be placed at a safe distance from
neighboring inverts. Some anenomes will wander the tank and sting
corals as well.
>
> IMHO there is no tank more beautiful than a well established and
cared for reef tank (though I've seen some planted FW tanks that put
up a DARN GOOD fight). Do your research, ask questions, and HAVE
FUN! :)
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions!
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alsarkozy
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:21 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt Water Tanks
>
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring
time and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20346 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Re: Salt Water Tanks
Another site to check your homework on.
http://www.garf.org/

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: steve@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 11 Jan 2007 6:59 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt Water Tanks


Adrian,

Do your homework on this and you can fully populate a reef tank or a
fish only tank with captive bred specimens. Live rock is farmed in the
ocean (actually mostly the Gulf of Mexico), many corals are propagated
via a method similar to cuttings from plants, more and more inverts are
captive bred, as are more and more fish. The amount of captive bred fish
is limited, at least for now, mainly due to the pelagic stage many
species go through, but people are working on it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of alsarkozy
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt Water Tanks

Honestly, Brad thinks that a SW tank is partially cruel because the
fish and coral's are captured from the wild. I have been looking at
some tank grown fish on fosters and smith.
At this point in my planning stage, I'm really just looking. I dont
want to purchase a huge 120 gallon and then move into the new house
and have no where to put it. So really until spring time, I'm just
going to try and learn as much as possible before I invest the money.
The only animal in the tank that I would really like is a Snow Flake
eel and a Humu Picasso Triggerfish.

Thanks for the advice. Let me know if anyone wants one of the Betta
babies (assuming everything goes as planned)

Adrian

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> No matter what anyone says, I've found my experience and
disciplines with freshwater tanks have been a huge boon in my keeping
a reef tank. Doing regular water changes, monitoring water
parameters, and all the regular maintenance that are involved with
freshwater are the same for saltwater tanks.
>
> That said, how difficult the tank is to keep depends on what it is
you want to keep. If you plan on doing a FOWLR (Fish Only With Live
Rock) tank the overall demands are much less than a full on reef
system.
>
> You mentioned you wanted to start a "larger salt water tank".
Which tank size were you looking for? Were you planning on running a
sump (hang on the back or under the tank)? What are you planning on
keeping? Just fish? Corals and inverts? If you are planning on
keeping corals and inverts your cost will go up dramatically. The
lighting and water flow requirements for them are much greater than a
fish only tank. If you are planning on keeping corals and inverts,
then you'll have to decide which type. Just softies (mushrooms,
zoas, GSP - Green Star Polyps), LPS (Large Polyped Stony), or the
even more challenging SPS (Small Polyped Stony)? Your lighting and
flow requirements will be dictated by which types of corals you
intend to keep.
>
> Beyond just lighting there are equipment costs. You'll want a good
protien skimmer no matter which type of larger system you are
plannign on getting. Nano tanks can go skimmerless as weekly water
changes can handle nutrient export, though even a nano can benefit
from a good skimmer. If you are planning on keeping more challenging
corals and inverts (i.e. clams, anenomes, and SPS) you'll need to
dose (calcium and iodine to name just a couple).
>
> Research becomes even more important with SW when you start
stocking your tank. There are tons of species of corals, anenomes,
and clams that are commonly available that will quickly outgrow even
the largest tank. Some corals (some of the LPS - hammer coral,
bubble coral, and frogspawn to name a few - come to mind) have long
sweeper tentacles that will sting and eventually kill their
tankmates, so they need to be placed at a safe distance from
neighboring inverts. Some anenomes will wander the tank and sting
corals as well.
>
> IMHO there is no tank more beautiful than a well established and
cared for reef tank (though I've seen some planted FW tanks that put
up a DARN GOOD fight). Do your research, ask questions, and HAVE
FUN! :)
>
> Let me know if you have any other questions!
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: alsarkozy
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 11:21 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt Water Tanks
>
>
> This is definately a beginner question.
> I am doing fine with the breeding Betta area, but kind of want to
> expand my fish keeping abilities. We are moving in the spring
time and
> I was thinking of starting a larger salt water tank.
> Are they much harder to keep then fresh water?
>
> Sorry for the lame question
> Adrian
>
>
>


________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20347 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Newbie!!
I have a chance to buy a 55 gallon tank. It includes a vtru view sump,
Aqua C 2002 EV series, Ebo-Jager 250 watt heater, 2x65 watt Power
compacts Coralife with smart pac bulbs, 225 watt metal halide bulb in
custom enclosure that hangs from the ceiling....I could get all of this
for 200.00 He has told me that I would need 2 more pumps. I am going to
do a reef is all of this got enough stuff for doing it?

Julie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20348 From: Julie Date: 1/11/2007
Subject: Newbie!!
Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a reef..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20349 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Question please
I have a question. I have an undergravel filter with a power head and I was
contemplating on buying laterite (gravel) and some live plants. I had a
stone (kinda like a half of a toy marble the round things) and the flake
foods gets stuck between the stones and the fishes can't get to them. While
if I have a laterite then it wouldn't get stuck on between the rock. Now,
here is my question. Do I need the undergravel filter with the power head if
I use a laterite? Wouldn't the power head suck the laterite? Also, how much
do I need, like 1 inch, 2 inches, etc. What kind of plants do you recommend
that would be good in laterite (something sturdy but not too expensive)? I
was gonna put neons, cardinals, rummy nose, otocinclus, and guppy on the
tank so I would have to feed them flakes and the flakes should stay on top
of the laterite if they have excess food. Could I mix a kilifish or balloon
ram with the neons? I was gonna add feeder shrimps since I saw that they
turn red if they live and eat lots of algae since they are like 15 (live)
for a dollar. I have a filter and a light fixture too. Can I add like
creamscicle molly/sword with the neons?

Thanks,
Rei
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20350 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
55g is my no means too small for a reef tank. I've got a 24g reef that's doing very well. I've also just finished cycling a 3g pico that will eventually house a few coral and a small fish. Do your research, find out what you're able to keep with the equipment you're planning on getting, and go for it. :)

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Julie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 9:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie!!


Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a reef..





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20351 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Fish 'n Flush Toilet
"A whimsical potty that turns your toilet into a nautical wonderland"

http://www.fishnflush.com/

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20352 From: joe t Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
I've been looking at the replies being given about cycling the tank and they all have a combination of some good information about cycling and some not so good - That is, according to me anyway. I am not trying to override anyone, it's just my opinion.

This is the way I would proceed: If I have an urgent need for the tank, I will use a cycle solution to help the process along. If there is no urgent need, I just let the process go on naturally - (meaning no additives, etc.) which is the way I prefer to do it. I let a tank "naturally" go through the cycling stage for AT LEAST a week.
I would not change any water during the cycling period especially if your area water is treated by the water supplier before it is piped to you. If they use chlorine it will fight the development of the bacteria. If they use other additives like chlorimines as well, then that's really a deadly toxic war on the bacterial survival. Yes, there are products on the market to break down the chlorine, etc. but, again, I would only use them when I urgently need the tank. And even when I use these additives, I would wait as long as I could before introducing the fish. The information about using filter media from an already well established tank is a very effective way to break the "new tank syndrome" BUT make sure you are not taking the media from a tank that is "sick". If you do that, you're just introducing the problem into the new tank.

Be careful with your water changes, which I agree should be consistent and often - like say every two weeks about 10%, after the fish have been in the tank. It would really be dependent on how many fish are in the tank and things like that. If you have a lot of fish in one tank, --which really isn't a good idea---, but if you do, then you should change the water often.

Finally, if you are keeping fish with a certain water needs, make sure your new water is of the same ph reading or very close to it. ph bounce - meaning the ph reading is going up and down in a short period of time - is one of the most difficult things for the fish to tolerate. If they are weak it could kill them.


---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20353 From: Karen Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish 'n Flush Toilet
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> "A whimsical potty that turns your toilet into a nautical wonderland"
>
> http://www.fishnflush.com/
>
> \\Steve//
>
wow, easy water changes!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20354 From: missheidismom Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
Thanks again to everyone for your comments and advice.

The three-spot gourami is bullying the dwarf gourami and nipping at
his fins. I'm going to call the LFS and see if they can "board" the
three-spot for a while. Maybe they even offer fishy daycare (can you
tell I'm a doggymommy?). Meanwhile, I'll continue doing 25% water
changes every other day to keep the ammonia from going off the
charts. By the way, at first I used a dipstick style ammonia tester,
and the resultant color didn't really match anything on the chart. I
then got the type with the two chemicals you put in the vial, which
seems more accurate.

I bought an aquarium ornament that hopefully will provide a safe
refuge for the dwarf, but we'll see.

I knew from the get-go that 10 gallons would be too small -- sigh.

Maxine



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> I've been looking at the replies being given about cycling the tank
and they all have a combination of some good information about
cycling and some not so good - That is, according to me anyway. I
am not trying to override anyone, it's just my opinion.
>
> This is the way I would proceed: If I have an urgent need for the
tank, I will use a cycle solution to help the process along. If
there is no urgent need, I just let the process go on naturally -
(meaning no additives, etc.) which is the way I prefer to do it. I
let a tank "naturally" go through the cycling stage for AT LEAST a
week.
> I would not change any water during the cycling period especially
if your area water is treated by the water supplier before it is
piped to you. If they use chlorine it will fight the development of
the bacteria. If they use other additives like chlorimines as well,
then that's really a deadly toxic war on the bacterial survival.
Yes, there are products on the market to break down the chlorine,
etc. but, again, I would only use them when I urgently need the
tank. And even when I use these additives, I would wait as long as I
could before introducing the fish. The information about using
filter media from an already well established tank is a very
effective way to break the "new tank syndrome" BUT make sure you are
not taking the media from a tank that is "sick". If you do that,
you're just introducing the problem into the new tank.
>
> Be careful with your water changes, which I agree should be
consistent and often - like say every two weeks about 10%, after the
fish have been in the tank. It would really be dependent on how
many fish are in the tank and things like that. If you have a lot of
fish in one tank, --which really isn't a good idea---, but if you do,
then you should change the water often.
>
> Finally, if you are keeping fish with a certain water needs, make
sure your new water is of the same ph reading or very close to it.
ph bounce - meaning the ph reading is going up and down in a short
period of time - is one of the most difficult things for the fish to
tolerate. If they are weak it could kill them.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20355 From: Izabela Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
I had a similar issue. My readings were indicating that there was no
nitrite, little nitrates, but the quick dip ammonia kit still showed
a small amount of ammonia. I was doing water changes and then it
dawned on me that maybe something was wrong with the strips. So I
tested my tap water...it read 0.05 ammonia, so I tested bottled
water....same reading. Finally I went out and bought another ammonia
kit, the one with two reagents you add to the water and it showed no
ammonia. My fish are healthy with a weekle water change and no
ammonia. The cycling process does take a while though, and with fish
being in there, water changes have to be don, even if it slows the
process. It's the humane thing to do...just imagine swimming in a
toilet, and no one will flush....yuk!

Izabela

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "callie143" <callie143@...>
wrote:
> This went on for about three weeks without change... which made me
> suspect the testing kit I had was not accurate. (it had no
exprired,
> and I'd used this brand before) So I got another kit.
>
> Sure enough - the tank had already cycled. The test kit was
faulty.
>
> Moral of the story I suppose is to trust your instincts, and that
test
> kits can be defective. All the inhabitants survived their 20%
daily
> water changes with no ill effects that I can see. But what a pain
for
> all involved...
>
> Good luck with yours - I hope for a fast cycling as well. It might
> not hurt to check around and see if there is someone in your area
that
> might have some established media to speed things up that they
could
> give you.
>
> I keep an extra 2in x 3in simple sponge filter in my 30g tanks
filter
> for just this purpose... That way when I decide to get another
tank
> (and I will, I'm addicted) I can use this extra sponge to speed up
> cycling as well... or keep it to use in the small 2.5 as a hopital
> tank, should the need ever come up.
>
> BTW - I have 5 serae tetras and a dwarf pearl blue gournami in a
tank
> (along with other fish) and there has never been a problem with
> comapatibility.)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "missheidismom" <aquamaxine@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Steve, Cynthia, and Sean -
> >
> > Thanks for your helpful comments.
> >
> > I could no longer bear to expose these fish to such a high
ammonia
> > level, so I changed 25% of the water this morning. That reduced
the
> > level, but there still is ammonia in there for the bacteria to
feed
> > on . . . if they would only come!
> >
> > I have also ordered a Penguin filter with a bio-wheel, thinking
that
> > the tank could use a more efficient filter and one that
accommodated
> > the bacteria better. Now the question is, when it arrives, do I
just
> > mount it on the tank and let both filters operate for a while?
> >
> > The three-spot gourami is about 3 inches long; he is the largest
of the
> > three and the boss of the tank. He chases the other gouramis
around,
> > especially at feeding time, but he doesn't bother the tetras (a
serpae
> > and a red-eyed). So far, no fin-nipping or other injuries,
though.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Let's see. First. You are going to change your substrate. Are you going
to leave the original substrate in and add the gravel on top, or are you
going to pullout the old and put in the new?

You are going to add laterite to your substrate to grow plants. While
laterite itself can be a substrate, your plants really will not need
that much. Add some laterite around the area when you plant your plants.
You should be able to find it in a pelletized form that you can more
easily place in the gravel where you need it. If you use the powdery
form, you'll have a bit of a mess on your hands. Laterite is mainly an
iron supplement, and depending on the iron content in your water, you
may not actually need it. There is also a lot of aluminum in it--more
than there is iron. Take a look at the chemical breakdown of your water,
provided by your water company, department, whatever. They will give it
to you, and probably have it posted online on their little piece of web
turf. Then, determine whether you really need it or not. You might
decide also to go with another iron supplement, but you do not want too
much iron in the water, or you could suffer other problems.

The question about the UGF is a good one, and you will get arguments
both ways. If you pull the UGF, what will be providing a home for the
bacteria important to the biological cycle? If you do not already have a
biowheel or something similar, you will want to allow enough time for it
to become colonized with bacteria prior to pulling the UGF, should you
go that route. I do not recall reading anything about laterite use and
UGF's, but if you nose around the web, you may be able to find
something. However, read all such pieces critically to determine if
there is fact or fiction behind it. It can be tough.

With rooted plants, you are probably going to want a substrate depth of
2-3" if not more. Don't be afraid to have places of greater or lesser
depth. Use a bit of the artist in you to create the aquascape. You don't
say what size tank you have as 3" of gravel will look very deep in a 10
gallon, but not very deep in a 55.

Your choice of plants would depend on the type of water you have, just
like your choice of fish. Your choice of characins will not go well with
the guppy, sword, or the molly you mention. The latter two require a
different type of water from the characins. If your water is soft enough
and acid enough, the rams would probably do fairly well with the
characins. Killies will also do well, but a cannot bring to mind any
South American killies that are not annuals (short lifespan), so you
would probably need to get something out of Africa. I'm not familiar
with the shrimp, so I cannot comment on them. The Otos you mention can
be finicky when it comes to diet, so do not be surprised if they do not
do well. It just means you do not have enough of the types of algae they
like to eat. None of the fish you mention are bottom feeders, so it is
likely that any food that makes it to the bottom will stay on the bottom
until you remove it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 6:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question please

I have a question. I have an undergravel filter with a power head and I
was
contemplating on buying laterite (gravel) and some live plants. I had a
stone (kinda like a half of a toy marble the round things) and the flake
foods gets stuck between the stones and the fishes can't get to them.
While
if I have a laterite then it wouldn't get stuck on between the rock.
Now,
here is my question. Do I need the undergravel filter with the power
head if
I use a laterite? Wouldn't the power head suck the laterite? Also, how
much
do I need, like 1 inch, 2 inches, etc. What kind of plants do you
recommend
that would be good in laterite (something sturdy but not too expensive)?
I
was gonna put neons, cardinals, rummy nose, otocinclus, and guppy on the
tank so I would have to feed them flakes and the flakes should stay on
top
of the laterite if they have excess food. Could I mix a kilifish or
balloon
ram with the neons? I was gonna add feeder shrimps since I saw that they
turn red if they live and eat lots of algae since they are like 15
(live)
for a dollar. I have a filter and a light fixture too. Can I add like
creamscicle molly/sword with the neons?



Thanks,

Rei
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
I do not know what you mean by letting the tank cycle "naturally". There
needs to be a source of ammonia, whether you add it yourself or you use
critters to produce it.

If you are using critters, you should be doing regular water changes.
More than ammonia is added to the water when there are critters in it,
and it is important to reduce the levels of those compounds as well. If
you are only doing 10% water changes, you should probably be doing 2 a
week, not once every 2 weeks.

If water is being delivered to you my an entity, whether a municipality
or a for profit company, it will have chlorine or chloramines in it,
except in very rare circumstances. Chlorine can be handed in many ways,
but a water conditioner is the most efficient and easiest way to
accomplish the removal of chlorine. Adding the conditioner to the tank
prior to introducing the new water. The chlorine is neutralized
immediately. The same goes for chloramine treated water.

New tank syndrome happens in some tanks no matter what is done. Yu may
lessen the chance of it by using used material from another tank,
whether it be gravel or filter floss, but it does not eliminate it. The
grey cloudy new tank syndrome is created when bacteria overpopulate the
tank. The green cloudy water occurs when there is more nitrogenous
compounds in the tank than can be handled by the population of the
tank--mainly other plants. When plants are placed in a tank, it takes
them some time to adjust to their new conditions and start growing.
Algae may take advantage of this lull and utilize the compounds the live
plants would otherwise use. Once the plants start growing, they will out
compete the algae, and the problem will go away. In a non-planted tank,
it takes more effort, but the problem can be resolved.

I know a lot of people would rather change the water chemistry than keep
fish that will do well in their water, so it is wise to try to avoid
rapid changes in pH. I've gone into this before on the list, but I'll
say it again in a much shortened form (and I know many are breathing a
sigh of relief). Most fish can withstand a wider range of pH than they
are give credit for. So long s the changes are gradual. This does not
mean they will thrive, but they will survive.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Friday, January 12, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A Newbie

I've been looking at the replies being given about cycling the tank and
they all have a combination of some good information about cycling and
some not so good - That is, according to me anyway. I am not trying to
override anyone, it's just my opinion.

This is the way I would proceed: If I have an urgent need for the tank,
I will use a cycle solution to help the process along. If there is no
urgent need, I just let the process go on naturally - (meaning no
additives, etc.) which is the way I prefer to do it. I let a tank
"naturally" go through the cycling stage for AT LEAST a week.
I would not change any water during the cycling period especially if
your area water is treated by the water supplier before it is piped to
you. If they use chlorine it will fight the development of the
bacteria. If they use other additives like chlorimines as well, then
that's really a deadly toxic war on the bacterial survival. Yes, there
are products on the market to break down the chlorine, etc. but, again,
I would only use them when I urgently need the tank. And even when I
use these additives, I would wait as long as I could before introducing
the fish. The information about using filter media from an already well
established tank is a very effective way to break the "new tank
syndrome" BUT make sure you are not taking the media from a tank that is
"sick". If you do that, you're just introducing the problem into the
new tank.

Be careful with your water changes, which I agree should be consistent
and often - like say every two weeks about 10%, after the fish have been
in the tank. It would really be dependent on how many fish are in the
tank and things like that. If you have a lot of fish in one tank,
--which really isn't a good idea---, but if you do, then you should
change the water often.

Finally, if you are keeping fish with a certain water needs, make sure
your new water is of the same ph reading or very close to it. ph
bounce - meaning the ph reading is going up and down in a short period
of time - is one of the most difficult things for the fish to tolerate.
If they are weak it could kill them.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20358 From: Bharath Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "missheidismom" <aquamaxine@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I'm Maxine from Evans, GA, and I'm brand new to the aquarium
hobby.
> It's been three weeks now since I started my 10-gallon freshwater
> aquarium, which contains three gouramis (a dwarf, a three-spotted,
> and an opaline) and two lonesome little tetras.
>
> I am getting concerned because the nitrogen cycle does not seem to
> be kicking in, even though I've been adding Stability per the
> directions on the bottle. The ammonia is at the "dangerous" level
> (80 ppm). Last night I added a tablet of Ammonia Clear to the
water.
>
> I guess I can preamble all my questions with "was it a mistake
> to . . . " as follows:

Hi Maxine.
Welcome 2 the world of aquarium fish.
Look up my website www.geocities.com/bharath.tonse
U may b in touch for further assistance.
Regards -- bharath
>
> Was it a mistake to:
>
> - Start with five fish for this small aquarium?
> - Change 25-30 percent of the water twice already (because that
may
> slow down the establishment of the nitrogen cycle)?
> - Use a gravel vacuum when changing the water (because some of the
> beneficial bacteria dwell there)?
> - Add Ammonia Clear to the water?
>
> I'm using a Tetra kit, which came with a heater and filter. (The
> filter has a mechanical filter cartridge and a biofilter sponge.)
>
> Do these fish just have to endure the high ammonia levels until
the
> nitrogen cycle kicks in? They seem healthy and active. They
gobble
> up their food quickly (I'm trying not to overfeed them). The
tetras
> were timid at first, but they are starting to swim out more among
the
> gouramis.
>
> Please pardon these elementary questions, but I know I'm not the
only
> beginner in the group.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Maxine
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20359 From: Will Griffin Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Cycling Tanks
I would agree that it is best to let nature take its course and not
add unnecessary additives, or too many additives, unless you
absolutely must do so. I sell some of these products on my various
web sites, but when it comes to dechlorinators avoid them, if
possible, let the chlorine dissapate naturally, and use all additives
and medicines sparingly. The only one of these products which also
dechlorinates I would recommend and I personally use, as may be
needed, is StressCoat, but I do so more as a prevention when adding
new fish I get in from shipments. Prevention is always better than
cures.

Let me address starting just freshwater aquariums here, because this
relates to most new hobbyists. For discussion, let's use the 10
gallon starter as an example.

Let the tank set up and run for a week, with some live plants.
Anarcharis, Cobomba are really excellent choices, because they'll
grow even if not rooted. Vallisnaria is also a good plant to
consider. Rooted plants may not do as well, but as they decay this
helps stabilize the tank, so don't buy an expensive large Amazon
Sword plant. You'll have plenty of organic "hitch-hikers" from live
plants.

The Biozyme aerobic bacteria starter, sold in almost all pet shops,
is a good product, but the amount you need to start the tank is so
little, you'll never use all of it, unless you are starting a large
number of aquariums. If you have a friend with an aquarium, get 1-2
gallons of their water change water, provided they have not had
disease issues with their fish in over the past few months or
longer. A scoop of gravel also works. The live plants will also
help.

After the first week, get just a few starter fish that aren't very
expensive and who are known to be hearty. Do acclimate them slowly,
because if you purchase from a pet shop, chances are that the fish
have recently gone through several hands and water changes, which
creates stress and reduces their immunity. Platys, swordtails and
guppies are very good for starters. White Clouds and Zebra Danios
are also very hearty. Barbs are also pretty forgiving, but here you
have to watch, because of their fin-nipping tendencies, when you add
other fish later. I wouldn't recommend mollies, because they come
from brackish water and if you do not use a little more aquarium salt
than is recommended for most aquarium fish, don't be surprised if you
find yourself with a problem with Ich.

After a couple of weeks or so, if all goes well, add a few more
fish. Male bettas are pretty hardy and the reason I suggest to
consider them as a second group, is because they cost a little more
and you want relatively inexpensive fish as your first fish.

Do get some type of water chemistry test kit, to keep an eye on
things, notably the pH and ammonia levels. As most tap water is
alkaline, you can use a little vinegar (natural additive) to slowly
lower the pH a little bit and this also adds some organics.
Note...you don't need much and as aerobic bacteria cultures take
hold, they will naturally lower pH themselves. So don't try to
achieve 7.0 in a day. Water which has been setting up in a plastic
bucket with some peat moss in the bottom will also be lower pH.
This is what I use for my killifish and I have some that are very
rare and sensitive. Lower pH slowly. Ask the pet shop where you are
buying your fish to let you know what their pH is.

Having some kind of Ich remedy and antifungus agent on hand is also a
consideration, because if you buy from some shops, you do run the
risk of introducing sick or disease fish. Buy fish from a breeder,
local aquarium society member, or local pet shop if possible.
Walmart is not the best place to buy tropical fish. Even with these
medicines I'm suggesting to have handy, use them as directed but
sparingly and keep the light of the aquarium off as much as possible,
if you have to treat the aquarium. This is especially true of
treating Ich.

The best thing you can have on hand is Aquarium Salt. Even
freshwater fish need some salt and the other trace minerals for
health. There are those who say they never use salt, but they aren't
the folks who breed show quality fish professionally, nor are they
those who have raised and bred rare fish for over 40 years. Using
aquarium salt as directed for prevention and treatment, also to
disinfect ornaments and new aquariums, will save you a lot of money
and grief. As I mentioned, I have several sites where I sell fish
and products and you can buy what you like, but I will recommend
getting the aquarium salt, test kits, and a few simple medicines to
have on hand. I can't remember the last time I had to treat a tank
or fish for Ich...I'm sure it was well over 25 years ago.

Per catfish and scavengers, after about 6 weeks or so you can add a
couple of these. Plecos are hardy, but they do grow large.
Corydoras catfish are also an excellent choice and they don't bother
other fish. The reason to wait is that until a tank cycles, you run
the risk of spikes in ammonia, which are heavier ions which
accumulate first at the bottom, thus the catfish are the first to be
effected.

I have more information at http://Aquariums-Info.com and my other
sites, with all of them having free information, notably for those
looking to get started in the hobby. I'm listing several sites,
because from time to time we do get an overload of visitors. Simply
go to the next site, because the basic information about getting
started and common fish is the same on all of the web sites.

Will Griffin
http://Aquariums-Info.com
http://Aquarium-Club.com
http://Aquarium-Fish.biz
http://4Tropical-Fish.com
http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com
http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com
http://Pet-Shops.biz
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20360 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cycling Tanks
I only bring this up because I did not see you mention it. Most water
supplies in the U.S. are now treated with Chloramines, which does NOT dissipate over
time*. You MUST treat for chloramines.
Trust me, I killed a few gorgeous fish by not attending to the Chloramines.
Mike

In a message dated 1/12/2007 9:42:36 PM Pacific Standard Time,
griffin@... writes:
sell some of these products on my various
web sites, but when it comes to dechlorinators avoid them, if
possible, let the chlorine dissapate naturally,
*(not dissipate in any reasonable amount of time that you would want to use
it in.)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20361 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: A Newbie
In the past, when I had my 29 gallon and had ammonia problems, I made ammo
carb bags and set them up either in the filter or next to them by the intake
tube. It did make a bit of a difference.
Vaccuming out the gravel, and frequent water changes made a difference as
well. I know people say, 25% changes but I did almost 50% and added stress
coat. It helped but, too many fish is really the biggest problem. And not having
strong filtration is another. Good luck.



Many blessings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20362 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Perfect water paremeters
I now have added additional BCect, to my 2 tanks. My 90 and my 55, and my
water perimeters have been perfect. Crystal clear. I feed every other day. I am
getting very fond of the filter bags that you physically replace the carbon
every 3-4 weeks. My fish are thriving.
My ClownKnife Fish is getting more aggressive though with my Oscar. I am
thinking about booting him. He looks awesome but, he is just not fitting into
the mix. And my other tank (90) is too filled with smaller fish that he would
eat them.




Many blessings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20363 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Parrot Cichlid Question
I was at our local pet store yesterday and the person that orders the
fish said that he would not order the "orange" Parrot Cichlids because
they are dyed. I have had these fish in the past and in my opinion
they are not dyed. The Red Devil could certainly contribute to the
natural orange color right? Does anyone have any knowledge of this?
Thanks,

Anna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20364 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Rei, Just a quick mention concerning Killifish, especially South
Americans. While West African Killifish could be a nice addition,
there's no reason to pass up the various Rivulus species of South
America which were previously overlooked here. These are not Annuals
and are most hardy, although again, they too prefer slightly acid
moderately soft water, as do the Africans. There are several real
nice ones in the genus. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have a question. I have an undergravel filter with a power head
and I was
> contemplating on buying laterite (gravel) and some live plants. I
had a
> stone (kinda like a half of a toy marble the round things) and the
flake
> foods gets stuck between the stones and the fishes can't get to
them. While
> if I have a laterite then it wouldn't get stuck on between the
rock. Now,
> here is my question. Do I need the undergravel filter with the
power head if
> I use a laterite? Wouldn't the power head suck the laterite? Also,
how much
> do I need, like 1 inch, 2 inches, etc. What kind of plants do you
recommend
> that would be good in laterite (something sturdy but not too
expensive)? I
> was gonna put neons, cardinals, rummy nose, otocinclus, and guppy
on the
> tank so I would have to feed them flakes and the flakes should stay
on top
> of the laterite if they have excess food. Could I mix a kilifish or
balloon
> ram with the neons? I was gonna add feeder shrimps since I saw that
they
> turn red if they live and eat lots of algae since they are like 15
(live)
> for a dollar. I have a filter and a light fixture too. Can I add
like
> creamscicle molly/sword with the neons?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20365 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Hi again,

I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should I
run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another simple
way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just put a
couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it is
filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I am
trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
running. Thank you.

Anna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20366 From: Joe Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a reef..
>


Hey Julie
A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot of
friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to worry
about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to stabilize
your parameters.
I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and upgrade to
the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more attention you
have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cycling Tanks
I would take issue with some of your points, not necessarily in the
order in which they were presented.

"As most tap water is alkaline, you can use a little vinegar (natural
additive) to slowly lower the pH a little bit and this also adds some
organics."

The natural pH of the water varies from region to region in this
country. Perhaps you live in the Chicago area, where the water is
lovingly referred to as liquid rock, and is hard and alkaline. You
certainly don't live near me where the water is softer and more acidic.
Of course the fact that many people receive water from municipal water
supplies rather than their own supplies, twists the equation a bit. Many
water companies raise the pH of the water to try to give their pipes a
longer life. Depending on the buffering capacity of the water, this
increase can be long-term or short term. All the water people care is
that it lasts long enough to get out of their pipes. A common test for
those whose water seems to lose pH value from the tap to the tank is to
let a sample of water from the tap to sit for 24 hours from initial pH
testing to a second test to determine the pH of the water. Anecdotal
evidence reports that the pH can drop more than one full point from
initial testing to the second testing--for example, from 7.5 to 6.5 or
lower.

I would be leery of adding anything meant to adjust the pH of the water,
especially downward. Water has a natural buffering capacity that works
to maintain a certain pH. In order to change the pH, you need to
overcome that buffer. In doing so, you need to maintain the amount of
your additive to keep the pH stable. In overcoming the buffer, you may
"break" the buffer. If this happens, you will experience a "pH crash"
where the pH drops rapidly to a level far below that which you wish to
maintain, perhaps low enough that your fish cannot survive.

I would not add vinegar specifically, other than as an accidental
introduction with vinegar eels, say, which are provided as food for the
fish. I cannot think of any organics that would be helpful that are
within the vinegar (other than the eels <g>) and if one is using a
distilled vinegar (white) there should be no organics at all. One of the
purposes of water changes is to remove organics from the water that have
been added by the presence of your critters and plants.

"but when it comes to dechlorinators avoid them, if possible, let the
chlorine dissipate naturally"

Yes, avoid dechlorinators. In most of the country they will not work
since it is the chloramines that one must remove from the water,
something a mere dechlorinator cannot do. While chloramines do contain
chlorine, it is bound to ammonia, and not removable by a plain
dechlorinator. You would need to use a product specifically designed to
break that bond and then handle the separate components of it. Should
you live in an area where only chlorine is used--as it was around here
until the last few years--then a dechlorinator is the way to go. It is
quick, easy and effective. The normal method of naturally removing
chlorine from a quantity of water is to let it sit out in an open
container for a period of time. It has been shown, however, that this
does not remove all the chlorine, although it does remove a substantial
portion of it. The use of a dechlorinator, following the label
instructions, is definitely indicated.


"get 1-2 gallons of their water change water "

What purpose does this serve? This is water that has a load of Dissolved
Organic Carbons (DOCs), hormones, and other byproducts of fish
respiration and excretion. This is why they are removing it from their
tank. Why do I want to put it in my tank? The only possible good may be
a few nitrosoma and nitrobacter that may have been dislodged from their
resting place during the water change, but certainly no more than would
find their way to your tank else wise.

"Having some kind of Ich remedy and antifungus agent on hand is also a
consideration, because if you buy from some shops, you do run the risk
of introducing sick or disease fish"

Medications of any sort have an expiration date. When and if you do need
a medication, go out and get it. Make sure eh expiration date has not
passed or is near, and use that. No matter where you get your fish, you
do run the risk of disease, this is why we use quarantine tanks for new
fish and keep them for at least three weeks in that tank. If there is a
problem, it gets resolved without harming your other fish, and the
quarantine period starts again when the problem is resolved. After three
weeks of good health, then the fish get added to your main tank.

"Rooted plants may not do as well, but as they decay this helps
stabilize the tank"

In any tank, not many plants will do well when first introduced. It is
just as when you transplant a plant from a pot to your garden. There is
a period of adjustment. The plant may go into "transplant shock" and
take a long time to recover. It is particularly noticeable in a new
tank, since the substrate is nice and clean, and even in the water there
is not much in the way of nutrients for the plants to utilize to grow.
Most aquatic plants actually get most of their nutrition from the water
column and not the roots. The roots merely serve as anchors for the
plants, and do not provide much in the way of nutrition to the plant.
This is very much unlike our terrestrial plants, where the majority of
the nutrition comes through the roots. Also, your choice of plants makes
a difference. Many plants sold as aquatic are plants where part of their
life is spent underwater--when the water body they are found in or near
floods--and part of their life with a portion above the water, or
possibly even high and dry on land. Particularly when you are stating
out, know the plants you are buying. Some plants sold at the LFS--the
mom and pop ones as well as the Petcos and PetSmarts, are actually
terrestrial plants that will do OK underwater for a while, but
eventually will die when the water does not go away.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Will Griffin
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cycling Tanks

I would agree that it is best to let nature take its course and not
add unnecessary additives, or too many additives, unless you
absolutely must do so. I sell some of these products on my various
web sites, but when it comes to dechlorinators avoid them, if
possible, let the chlorine dissapate naturally, and use all additives
and medicines sparingly. The only one of these products which also
dechlorinates I would recommend and I personally use, as may be
needed, is StressCoat, but I do so more as a prevention when adding
new fish I get in from shipments. Prevention is always better than
cures.

Let me address starting just freshwater aquariums here, because this
relates to most new hobbyists. For discussion, let's use the 10
gallon starter as an example.

Let the tank set up and run for a week, with some live plants.
Anarcharis, Cobomba are really excellent choices, because they'll
grow even if not rooted. Vallisnaria is also a good plant to
consider. Rooted plants may not do as well, but as they decay this
helps stabilize the tank, so don't buy an expensive large Amazon
Sword plant. You'll have plenty of organic "hitch-hikers" from live
plants.

The Biozyme aerobic bacteria starter, sold in almost all pet shops,
is a good product, but the amount you need to start the tank is so
little, you'll never use all of it, unless you are starting a large
number of aquariums. If you have a friend with an aquarium, get 1-2
gallons of their water change water, provided they have not had
disease issues with their fish in over the past few months or
longer. A scoop of gravel also works. The live plants will also
help.

After the first week, get just a few starter fish that aren't very
expensive and who are known to be hearty. Do acclimate them slowly,
because if you purchase from a pet shop, chances are that the fish
have recently gone through several hands and water changes, which
creates stress and reduces their immunity. Platys, swordtails and
guppies are very good for starters. White Clouds and Zebra Danios
are also very hearty. Barbs are also pretty forgiving, but here you
have to watch, because of their fin-nipping tendencies, when you add
other fish later. I wouldn't recommend mollies, because they come
from brackish water and if you do not use a little more aquarium salt
than is recommended for most aquarium fish, don't be surprised if you
find yourself with a problem with Ich.

After a couple of weeks or so, if all goes well, add a few more
fish. Male bettas are pretty hardy and the reason I suggest to
consider them as a second group, is because they cost a little more
and you want relatively inexpensive fish as your first fish.

Do get some type of water chemistry test kit, to keep an eye on
things, notably the pH and ammonia levels. As most tap water is
alkaline, you can use a little vinegar (natural additive) to slowly
lower the pH a little bit and this also adds some organics.
Note...you don't need much and as aerobic bacteria cultures take
hold, they will naturally lower pH themselves. So don't try to
achieve 7.0 in a day. Water which has been setting up in a plastic
bucket with some peat moss in the bottom will also be lower pH.
This is what I use for my killifish and I have some that are very
rare and sensitive. Lower pH slowly. Ask the pet shop where you are
buying your fish to let you know what their pH is.

Having some kind of Ich remedy and antifungus agent on hand is also a
consideration, because if you buy from some shops, you do run the
risk of introducing sick or disease fish. Buy fish from a breeder,
local aquarium society member, or local pet shop if possible.
Walmart is not the best place to buy tropical fish. Even with these
medicines I'm suggesting to have handy, use them as directed but
sparingly and keep the light of the aquarium off as much as possible,
if you have to treat the aquarium. This is especially true of
treating Ich.

The best thing you can have on hand is Aquarium Salt. Even
freshwater fish need some salt and the other trace minerals for
health. There are those who say they never use salt, but they aren't
the folks who breed show quality fish professionally, nor are they
those who have raised and bred rare fish for over 40 years. Using
aquarium salt as directed for prevention and treatment, also to
disinfect ornaments and new aquariums, will save you a lot of money
and grief. As I mentioned, I have several sites where I sell fish
and products and you can buy what you like, but I will recommend
getting the aquarium salt, test kits, and a few simple medicines to
have on hand. I can't remember the last time I had to treat a tank
or fish for Ich...I'm sure it was well over 25 years ago.

Per catfish and scavengers, after about 6 weeks or so you can add a
couple of these. Plecos are hardy, but they do grow large.
Corydoras catfish are also an excellent choice and they don't bother
other fish. The reason to wait is that until a tank cycles, you run
the risk of spikes in ammonia, which are heavier ions which
accumulate first at the bottom, thus the catfish are the first to be
effected.

I have more information at http://Aquariums-Info.com and my other
sites, with all of them having free information, notably for those
looking to get started in the hobby. I'm listing several sites,
because from time to time we do get an overload of visitors. Simply
go to the next site, because the basic information about getting
started and common fish is the same on all of the web sites.

Will Griffin
http://Aquariums-Info.com
http://Aquarium-Club.com
http://Aquarium-Fish.biz
http://4Tropical-Fish.com
http://Tropical-Fish-Net.com
http://Rare-Tropicalfish.com
http://Pet-Shops.biz
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20368 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I have been running off well water for 21 years... I do not treat it before it goes in... I have looked into RO water and a few people I hold highly on the fish expert scale have told me that it is better to use well water in most cases than RO water... When the tank needs a top off... We just top it off... When it needs a water change (which is less often than with treated water) we just change the water... I can keep fish in well water that people normally have a hard time keeping alive on tap... In my opinion... You're lucky


----- Original Message ----
From: Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:25:12 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium

Hi again,

I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should I
run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another simple
way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just put a
couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it is
filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I am
trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
running. Thank you.

Anna






____________________________________________________________________________________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20369 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I've never had a problem keeping the fish healthy in well water in
the past, just would on occasion get those unsightly brown algae
blooms but maybe letting nature take its course, that would leave on
it's own.

Anna


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been running off well water for 21 years... I do not treat
it before it goes in... I have looked into RO water and a few people
I hold highly on the fish expert scale have told me that it is better
to use well water in most cases than RO water... When the tank needs
a top off... We just top it off... When it needs a water change
(which is less often than with treated water) we just change the
water... I can keep fish in well water that people normally have a
hard time keeping alive on tap... In my opinion... You're lucky
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:25:12 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> Hi again,
>
> I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
> phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should I
> run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another
simple
> way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just
put a
> couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it
is
> filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I
am
> trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
> running. Thank you.
>
> Anna
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
> http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20370 From: cmcferin Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Anna,

Here are a few links about Parrots that talk about them being dyed:

http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm
http://www.geocities.com/parrotcichlid/general.html

The last link here is talking about how the "Blood Parrot" Cichlid is
a man-made hybrid and not a true species.

http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html

I believe there is some debate over this fish, some very heated debate
depending on where you look. I hope this helps.

-chris

As you said, not all Parrot Cichlids are dyed.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joanna Tomacari"
<cotton50girl@...> wrote:
>
> I was at our local pet store yesterday and the person that orders the
> fish said that he would not order the "orange" Parrot Cichlids because
> they are dyed. I have had these fish in the past and in my opinion
> they are not dyed. The Red Devil could certainly contribute to the
> natural orange color right? Does anyone have any knowledge of this?
> Thanks,
>
> Anna
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20371 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question please
Ray,

Now that you mention them, several Rivulus come to mind. When I wrote my
reply, I just could not get Cynolebias out of my brain, and none of the
Fundulus I could recall were from South America, they are mainly North
American fish, with some ranges extending into Mexico. I did run my mind
through a few other genus names, but never hit upon the Rivulans as I
was thinking about it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please

Rei, Just a quick mention concerning Killifish, especially South
Americans. While West African Killifish could be a nice addition,
there's no reason to pass up the various Rivulus species of South
America which were previously overlooked here. These are not Annuals
and are most hardy, although again, they too prefer slightly acid
moderately soft water, as do the Africans. There are several real
nice ones in the genus. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have a question. I have an undergravel filter with a power head
and I was
> contemplating on buying laterite (gravel) and some live plants. I
had a
> stone (kinda like a half of a toy marble the round things) and the
flake
> foods gets stuck between the stones and the fishes can't get to
them. While
> if I have a laterite then it wouldn't get stuck on between the
rock. Now,
> here is my question. Do I need the undergravel filter with the
power head if
> I use a laterite? Wouldn't the power head suck the laterite? Also,
how much
> do I need, like 1 inch, 2 inches, etc. What kind of plants do you
recommend
> that would be good in laterite (something sturdy but not too
expensive)? I
> was gonna put neons, cardinals, rummy nose, otocinclus, and guppy
on the
> tank so I would have to feed them flakes and the flakes should stay
on top
> of the laterite if they have excess food. Could I mix a kilifish or
balloon
> ram with the neons? I was gonna add feeder shrimps since I saw that
they
> turn red if they live and eat lots of algae since they are like 15
(live)
> for a dollar. I have a filter and a light fixture too. Can I add
like
> creamscicle molly/sword with the neons?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20372 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Without putting numbers to the iron and phosphates, it is hard to say.
Have you had algae problems in the past from this water? A healthy
growth of plants would also help utilize the iron and phosphates. A 125
is perfect to test out your aquascaping skills with the placement of a
god number of plants.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium

Hi again,

I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should I
run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another simple
way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just put a
couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it is
filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I am
trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
running. Thank you.

Anna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20373 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Actually... Letting nature take it's course isn't going to get rid of the algae... But contrary to popular belief... Some algae is good... People tend to get rid of it because they think it's unsightly and disgusting... It actually eats the bad bacteria and chemicals out of your water... As long as you don't let it get overgrown it won't hurt your aquarium... If you let it overgrow then it will choke the oxygen out of the tank... When the algae starts blooming just get an algae scrubber and wipe down the front of the aquarium and any side you may look through... Leave the rest alone... If you're totally sure you want no algae what so ever you can buy a product called Phos-X... It kills out the phosphates that cause algae blooms...


----- Original Message ----
From: Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 10:49:38 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

I've never had a problem keeping the fish healthy in well water in
the past, just would on occasion get those unsightly brown algae
blooms but maybe letting nature take its course, that would leave on
it's own.

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ ...>
wrote:
>
> I have been running off well water for 21 years... I do not treat
it before it goes in... I have looked into RO water and a few people
I hold highly on the fish expert scale have told me that it is better
to use well water in most cases than RO water... When the tank needs
a top off... We just top it off... When it needs a water change
(which is less often than with treated water) we just change the
water... I can keep fish in well water that people normally have a
hard time keeping alive on tap... In my opinion... You're lucky
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@ ...>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:25:12 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> Hi again,
>
> I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
> phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should I
> run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another
simple
> way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just
put a
> couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it
is
> filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I
am
> trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
> running. Thank you.
>
> Anna
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
____________ __
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
> http://tv.yahoo com/collections/ 265
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20374 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Chris,

Thank you for the helpful links. I think it is very unethical to
tattoo fish like they show in these links, and dye them with dots
etc. I didn't realize this was going on in the fish world. I knew
some fish were dyed years ago, but I had no idea they started
tattooing?? Scary, what will be next? I am still not convinced the
orange Parrot is dyed but I certainly could be wrong. It would seem
that if they were dyed, the color would fade as they grew but again,
I am not sure about this. Thanks again,

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cmcferin" <cmcferin@...> wrote:
>
> Anna,
>
> Here are a few links about Parrots that talk about them being dyed:
>
> http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm
> http://www.geocities.com/parrotcichlid/general.html
>
> The last link here is talking about how the "Blood Parrot" Cichlid
is
> a man-made hybrid and not a true species.
>
> http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html
>
> I believe there is some debate over this fish, some very heated
debate
> depending on where you look. I hope this helps.
>
> -chris
>
> As you said, not all Parrot Cichlids are dyed.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20375 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Hi Steve, I haven't used this well water for an aquarium yet, but
where I lived before, I had well water and brown algae bloomed like
crazy though it did not see to affect the fish. I would love to have
some plants, but am planning on either going Saltwater or doing some
variety of Cichlids.

Anna


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Without putting numbers to the iron and phosphates, it is hard to
say.
> Have you had algae problems in the past from this water? A healthy
> growth of plants would also help utilize the iron and phosphates. A
125
> is perfect to test out your aquascaping skills with the placement
of a
> god number of plants.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> Hi again,
>
> I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
> phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should
I
> run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another
simple
> way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just
put a
> couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it
is
> filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I
am
> trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
> running. Thank you.
>
> Anna
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20376 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I like the green algae, I think it gives the tank a more natural
look, but the brown I find unsightly.

Anna

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> Actually... Letting nature take it's course isn't going to get rid
of the algae... But contrary to popular belief... Some algae is
good... People tend to get rid of it because they think it's
unsightly and disgusting... It actually eats the bad bacteria and
chemicals out of your water... As long as you don't let it get
overgrown it won't hurt your aquarium... If you let it overgrow then
it will choke the oxygen out of the tank... When the algae starts
blooming just get an algae scrubber and wipe down the front of the
aquarium and any side you may look through... Leave the rest alone...
If you're totally sure you want no algae what so ever you can buy a
product called Phos-X... It kills out the phosphates that cause algae
blooms...
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20377 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to use RO
water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think about
what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not go to
the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

Hi Steve, I haven't used this well water for an aquarium yet, but
where I lived before, I had well water and brown algae bloomed like
crazy though it did not see to affect the fish. I would love to have
some plants, but am planning on either going Saltwater or doing some
variety of Cichlids.

Anna


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Without putting numbers to the iron and phosphates, it is hard to
say.
> Have you had algae problems in the past from this water? A healthy
> growth of plants would also help utilize the iron and phosphates. A
125
> is perfect to test out your aquascaping skills with the placement
of a
> god number of plants.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> Hi again,
>
> I will be setting up my 125 soon and our well water may be high in
> phosphates and iron. When I fill the tank with the Python, should
I
> run the water through a mesh bag of carbon? Or is there another
simple
> way to filter the water while I fill the tank? Or, should I just
put a
> couple of hot magnums filled with carbon on the tank right after it
is
> filled and will carbon take care of the iron/phosphate problem? I
am
> trying to avoid having excess brown algae develop once the tank is
> running. Thank you.
>
> Anna
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20378 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Alien Alert: Shrimpy invader raises big concerns: Science News Onli
This might be a new food source for those who actually go out and
collect live foods for your fish. You do, however, need to be near one
of the Great Lakes areas mentioned in the article.

http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20070113/fob3.asp

\\Steve//
A closed mouth gathers no feet.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20379 From: Chris Mcfearin Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot Cichlid Question
Glad that I could help, good luck with your fish. Personally, when I
think about these fish and how horribly they were treated, just making
sure they get to a good home makes it where they can at least enjoy
themselves.

Have a good one.

Joanna Tomacari wrote:
>
> Chris,
>
> Thank you for the helpful links. I think it is very unethical to
> tattoo fish like they show in these links, and dye them with dots
> etc. I didn't realize this was going on in the fish world. I knew
> some fish were dyed years ago, but I had no idea they started
> tattooing?? Scary, what will be next? I am still not convinced the
> orange Parrot is dyed but I certainly could be wrong. It would seem
> that if they were dyed, the color would fade as they grew but again,
> I am not sure about this. Thanks again,
>
> Anna
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "cmcferin" <cmcferin@...> wrote:
> >
> > Anna,
> >
> > Here are a few links about Parrots that talk about them being dyed:
> >
> > http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm
> <http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm>
> > http://www.geocities.com/parrotcichlid/general.html
> <http://www.geocities.com/parrotcichlid/general.html>
> >
> > The last link here is talking about how the "Blood Parrot" Cichlid
> is
> > a man-made hybrid and not a true species.
> >
> > http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html
> <http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html>
> >
> > I believe there is some debate over this fish, some very heated
> debate
> > depending on where you look. I hope this helps.
> >
> > -chris
> >
> > As you said, not all Parrot Cichlids are dyed.
> >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20380 From: fishing_reich Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Brown algae
I recently lost a number of fish, including my Chinese Algae Eater, to
an aggressive Melanochromis auratus. I now have brown algae
everywhere in the tank. I'm unsure about introducing a new algae
eater and have been debating the use of an algacide. The tank is only
30 gallons so I don't see the costs of treating the tank to be overly
expensive. I'm looking for some direction. Is there a species of algae
eater that can stand up to an auratus? Is there an algacide anyone
would recommend or steer me away from?

Thanks
Mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20381 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Brown algae
Solve the algae problem with more water changes, feeding less, vacuuming
gravel more and/or less light. Then you won’t need an algae eater!



You could also try lots of plants, although selection is limited by the
mbuna.



There aren’t even many mbuna who can stand up to auratus from what I
understand!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of fishing_reich
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 7:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Brown algae



I recently lost a number of fish, including my Chinese Algae Eater, to
an aggressive Melanochromis auratus. I now have brown algae
everywhere in the tank. I'm unsure about introducing a new algae
eater and have been debating the use of an algacide. The tank is only
30 gallons so I don't see the costs of treating the tank to be overly
expensive. I'm looking for some direction. Is there a species of algae
eater that can stand up to an auratus? Is there an algacide anyone
would recommend or steer me away from?

Thanks
Mark





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20382 From: snerticus Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Water quality: wells and tap
Hi all, haven't posted much since Thanksgiving-ish of last year -
lots of things going on.

I've read posts about well water and tap water being alkaline. My
experience after moving cross country from PA to AZ, is that,
depending on where you live, the quality can vary in HUGE ways.

In PA, my tap water had a pH of 7.0 and was generally great for fish
except for the high concentrations of chlorine and other chemicals.
So I bought a Tap Water Purifier (Aquarium Pharmeceuticals) and it
worked great for making fish water. The well water was also great
for fish, although I'm not sure of the pH of it in PA, but many well
springs had fish in them and I also drank from some of the springs
and the water was delicious and always ice cold!

Now that I'm in Phoenix, the water here is horrible. The pH is
around 7.8 and the dissovled minerals are at concentrations I can't
believe. I have well water now and will not use it to drink or cook
with, let alone use as fish water. It must have high organic
concentrations because right from the tap, it will bubble and the
bubbles will not dissipate. They congregate at the surface and stay
there for a long time. I actually tried using the city tap water
when I first came down here with a betta I brought with me. The
betta did okay, but the water clouded within a few hours and wouldn't
clear up until I changed it again. I started using store water. Now
I use Sparkletts. The well water here will cause brown algae spikes
in containers I use for watering plants, and then will grow green
algae after a while. There have even been reports of high
concentrations of naturally occurring arsenic in the underground
waters around here, so I try to stay away from the well water as much
as possible, except for cleaning purposes. And mineral deposits from
the evaporated water are almost impossible to get rid of. I won't
even try the tap water purifier out here because it would probably
deplete a cartridge after one use - which for me would be only 10
gallons. Back home, a cartridge would last for about 150 gallons.

I really did like the tap water purifier for both fresh and
especially salt water... so I would still recommend it to anyone who
can't afford a RO system. (Although it does take a while to filter
the water.)

I wonder if diluting high pH and mineral laden tap/well water with
distilled would be a viable solution?


Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Water quality: wells and tap
The bubbling noted was from dissolved gas being released from the water.
That the bubbles lasted could be to a high concentration of DOC's, but
if the water was very soft (not what you say, but it may apply to
others) it could cause the bubbles to last for quite a while.

The supplier of the city water must supply you with their water test
results upon request. You may find it posted on their web site. This may
give you an indication of what the water is like from the wells, since
they are probably pulling water from the same aquifer.

Distilled water, itself, should not be used in aquaria. It is water
where everything but the H and the O have been removed, and as such, it
is very corrosive. If you are going to use distilled water, you should
be able to find recipes for creating the type of water you wish for your
fish on the Internet., or, as you suggest, mixing it with your local
water to achieve a certain concentration of minerals content and,
possible, a different pH. I used to have some of those recipes myself,
but I haven't run across them in a long while. If they are no ton one of
my current hard drives, they are probably on one of those I have sitting
on the self to be cleaned up one of these days and wiped before
disposal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 10:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water quality: wells and tap

Hi all, haven't posted much since Thanksgiving-ish of last year -
lots of things going on.

I've read posts about well water and tap water being alkaline. My
experience after moving cross country from PA to AZ, is that,
depending on where you live, the quality can vary in HUGE ways.

In PA, my tap water had a pH of 7.0 and was generally great for fish
except for the high concentrations of chlorine and other chemicals.
So I bought a Tap Water Purifier (Aquarium Pharmeceuticals) and it
worked great for making fish water. The well water was also great
for fish, although I'm not sure of the pH of it in PA, but many well
springs had fish in them and I also drank from some of the springs
and the water was delicious and always ice cold!

Now that I'm in Phoenix, the water here is horrible. The pH is
around 7.8 and the dissovled minerals are at concentrations I can't
believe. I have well water now and will not use it to drink or cook
with, let alone use as fish water. It must have high organic
concentrations because right from the tap, it will bubble and the
bubbles will not dissipate. They congregate at the surface and stay
there for a long time. I actually tried using the city tap water
when I first came down here with a betta I brought with me. The
betta did okay, but the water clouded within a few hours and wouldn't
clear up until I changed it again. I started using store water. Now
I use Sparkletts. The well water here will cause brown algae spikes
in containers I use for watering plants, and then will grow green
algae after a while. There have even been reports of high
concentrations of naturally occurring arsenic in the underground
waters around here, so I try to stay away from the well water as much
as possible, except for cleaning purposes. And mineral deposits from
the evaporated water are almost impossible to get rid of. I won't
even try the tap water purifier out here because it would probably
deplete a cartridge after one use - which for me would be only 10
gallons. Back home, a cartridge would last for about 150 gallons.

I really did like the tap water purifier for both fresh and
especially salt water... so I would still recommend it to anyone who
can't afford a RO system. (Although it does take a while to filter
the water.)

I wonder if diluting high pH and mineral laden tap/well water with
distilled would be a viable solution?


Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20384 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Uh... I use the well water on my marine aquarium also... So you do NOT need RO water... I have fresh, salt and brackish aquariums and all do fine... About the brown algae... When you see some start to bloom... Wipe it down... Don't over feed the fish and that will keep the phosphates down also


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:01:48 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to use RO
water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think about
what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not go to
the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20385 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
;Never said you did need RO for well water and marine. I said probably.
This is because those I have known that have well water do use RO prior
to making the mix. It depends on what is in the water to start. The
originator of this thread mentioned high iron and phosphates. I am not a
marine person, but I believe that I have read that phosphates are
anathema to marine keepers. If this is so, then removal of the phosphate
would be mandated. Whether it is done via a zeolite, via RO, or via
another method, it would need to be done.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FoRTy-TwO
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

Uh... I use the well water on my marine aquarium also... So you do NOT
need RO water... I have fresh, salt and brackish aquariums and all do
fine... About the brown algae... When you see some start to bloom...
Wipe it down... Don't over feed the fish and that will keep the
phosphates down also


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:01:48 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to use RO
water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think about
what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not go to
the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20386 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
My African Rift Lake cichlids love my well water with 7.8 pH and lots of
minerals!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 1:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium



;Never said you did need RO for well water and marine. I said probably.
This is because those I have known that have well water do use RO prior
to making the mix. It depends on what is in the water to start. The
originator of this thread mentioned high iron and phosphates. I am not a
marine person, but I believe that I have read that phosphates are
anathema to marine keepers. If this is so, then removal of the phosphate
would be mandated. Whether it is done via a zeolite, via RO, or via
another method, it would need to be done.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FoRTy-TwO
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 8:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

Uh... I use the well water on my marine aquarium also... So you do NOT
need RO water... I have fresh, salt and brackish aquariums and all do
fine... About the brown algae... When you see some start to bloom...
Wipe it down... Don't over feed the fish and that will keep the
phosphates down also

----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:01:48 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to use RO
water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think about
what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not go to
the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.

\\Steve//





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20387 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Nano/mini tanks?
HI ALL!

So I have been doing research on starting my first salt water tank. I
was given a 55 gallon that I was planning on using. The more I read,
the more I think it would be a good idea to start with a smaller tank.
Could any of you give me some input on this? Would it be better to
start small? Or does it give me more room for error in a larger tank?
I would go very slowly whether I use the 55 or a smaller tank
(gradually adding to it). Is there a good place to go online for deals
on kits? Or for fish supplies? I generally get everything for my FW
tanks at my LFS. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks All!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20388 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
I am of the school to go large on your first tank for the reason you
stated. More water gives you more room for error, whether fresh water or
marine. However, the marine tank becomes much more expensive as you move
up in size, much more so than FW tanks, depending on the type of marine
tank you intend to have. So, be sure you want to go the marine route,
then decide what type of marine tank you wish to keep then determine the
costs. If you can still stomach the costs involved, go for it. If you
can't, rethink what you want to do.

There are a number of good marine sites on the web. See my disclaimer
below for the lack of a listing here.

Disclaimers: I am not a marine person. I have never kept a marine tank.
It is unlikely I ever will keep a marine tank. Your mileage may vary at
any sites I may chose to list or not list.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mi_vida_muyloca
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 2:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Nano/mini tanks?

HI ALL!

So I have been doing research on starting my first salt water tank. I
was given a 55 gallon that I was planning on using. The more I read,
the more I think it would be a good idea to start with a smaller tank.
Could any of you give me some input on this? Would it be better to
start small? Or does it give me more room for error in a larger tank?
I would go very slowly whether I use the 55 or a smaller tank
(gradually adding to it). Is there a good place to go online for deals
on kits? Or for fish supplies? I generally get everything for my FW
tanks at my LFS. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks All!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20389 From: Carol Harrell Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
How lucky for you to receive such a gift!!!! Several years ago I had a salt water tank (55-gallon), but dismantled everything because of a leaky filter system. Absolutely ruined our living room carpet and my husband and less than thrilled, since he saw no use for the tank in the first place. I changed out the tank and went with fresh water - had wonderful luck with it. Since those days the marriage has dissolved and my beloved tank was sold in an auction. One of these days I want to start a reef tank and would like to start with a 20 or 29 gallon tank; so, your question(s) are intriguing to me as well. I look forward to the answers you receive and hope that you won't mind me reading in.

Carol, Missouri



mi_vida_muyloca <mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote: HI ALL!

So I have been doing research on starting my first salt water tank. I
was given a 55 gallon that I was planning on using. The more I read,
the more I think it would be a good idea to start with a smaller tank.
Could any of you give me some input on this? Would it be better to
start small? Or does it give me more room for error in a larger tank?
I would go very slowly whether I use the 55 or a smaller tank
(gradually adding to it). Is there a good place to go online for deals
on kits? Or for fish supplies? I generally get everything for my FW
tanks at my LFS. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks All!!






Carol
[Owned by Booboo (7-yr old, 2# Yorkie), Xena (2-yr old rescued, black domestic shorthair cat), and Gabrielle (2-yr old rescued Ragdoll cat)]



---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20390 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Betta Breeding Help
So this is the first time, I have attempted to breed my Betta's. We
have done everything that has been suggested from all of the reading
we have done. But now we are running into a problem.
Biggie (our male Betta) was introduced to Little Lady and was kept in
a hurricane lamp for about a week now. But Biggie has not blown a
bubble nest. This afternoon we released Little Lady, thinking that
might encourage him to make a nest... and nothing has happened.
What has gone wrong?

Thanks for the help!
Adrian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20391 From: Julie Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Hey Joe!
Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the thank
but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And what
does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking at
fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or NOT
with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!

Julie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> >
> > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a reef..
> >
>
>
> Hey Julie
> A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot of
> friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to worry
> about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to stabilize
> your parameters.
> I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and upgrade to
> the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more attention you
> have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20392 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Nano tanks are great for hospital tanks, IMHO, but little else. The
smallest tank I will even keep a male betta in is a five gallon tank.
Teh larger ones are definately more fun to watch and easier to keep
going once you get them set up
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20393 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
What has gone wrong is that your bettas have obviously not read the
same books you have. LOL. Honestly there is no one single way that is
best to breed bettas. And sometimes things just don't work out, even
for people who think they have it down pat. Sometimes it takes a while
for the bettas to warm up to each other, sometimes they make great
buddies, but never mate, sometimes they decide to kill each other right
away. Some male bettas never blow a bubble nest, and instead spit the
eggs and fry up on top of floating plant masses.

Most often though, when the bettas are not breeding, it is because they
were inadequately conditioned (fed rich foods and kept in very warm
conditions in tannin rich water)

So What is your current setup? Do you have fry food ready? What are
the water perameters, the tank size, the furnishings of the
tank...etc... knowing this will help us to try to narrow things down
for you.


> So this is the first time, I have attempted to breed my Betta's. We
> have done everything that has been suggested from all of the reading
> we have done. But now we are running into a problem.
> Biggie (our male Betta) was introduced to Little Lady and was kept in
> a hurricane lamp for about a week now. But Biggie has not blown a
> bubble nest. This afternoon we released Little Lady, thinking that
> might encourage him to make a nest... and nothing has happened.
> What has gone wrong?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Adrian
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20394 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Ok, as far as phosphates go... Marine aquariums do not need to eliminate phosphates completely because you need live rock to purify your water... Live rock has coraline on it which is forms of algae that eat bad bacteria... If you eliminate phosphates then your live rock will in turn... die... Also... As I mentioned before... Algae is not all bad... That is a wives tale in the aquarium hobby... As far as the iron goes... Coraline also needs to eat minerals such as that... If you're not going to do a marine aquarium... Then the iron and other minerals are not necesary but small amounts aren't going to hurt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20395 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
There is no set number, but, rather, a number of variables when
determining how many fish. First, you need to know the fish you will be
adding to the tank, or want to add. You need to know the species, what
are their habits and the adult size of the fish. Safest way to go it to
base your calculations on the adult size of the fish, then, when
introducing them at a smaller size, they will be able to grow into the
tank, and piece and health will be kept.

If the fish are territorial, you need to know how much territory they
need. You need to know if they defend the territory against all comers
or just against those of their own species. For instance, if a fish
needs and 18" radius for a territory, and only defends against
conspecifics, you may be able to keep two in your tank, but there may
still be minor skirmishes. If the fish takes on all comers, you may be
able to house more fish, but only if they utilize a different stratum in
the water column. However, given the confines of a tank, even this may
not be enough to keep the fish from attacking others in the tank. It
probably would be a trial and error deal to determine if the fish will
get along.

There are other factors that will enter into the equation, but these are
the most obvious ones, the others come under the heading of art rather
than science for the most part. For example, since we do not have
information on how much waste a particular fish of a particular size
will produce for most of the fish we keep, it is not easy to determine
if a particular species really needs more than x number of gallons of
water per fish.

There are a lot of "rules" out there that state how much fish you can
put in a tank of a given size, but they are pretty much worthless. Some
fish will allow you to keep more than the rule you are following, others
(most of the fish) will require more. However if some one tells you that
for this fish you are considering, you can put in so many of them, if
you do not have other fish--pay attention. That person knows what he is
talking about, and does not want to make an immediate sale. That person
wants you as a customer for life--potentially a more profitable
situation. Any one on lists who gives a number, well, their advice needs
to be taken with a grain of salt (or, perhaps, the whole bag of salt).

For two reasons, I'll not be making a specific recommendation. First, I
don't know what you would like to do with your tank, and, second, I am
not a marine person, so my familiarity with marine fish is necessarily
limited.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 5:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!

Hey Joe!
Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the thank
but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And what
does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking at
fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or NOT
with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!

Julie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> >
> > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a reef..
> >
>
>
> Hey Julie
> A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot of
> friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to worry
> about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to stabilize
> your parameters.
> I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and upgrade to
> the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more attention you
> have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20396 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Although the person has not given us any numbers, they are concerned
because they think they are high. If you use that water and a normal
marine mix, those numbers will go higher still and may do a disservice
to the tank. I have known many people who will not use anything but RO
water for their marine tanks because of the problems they have with
their tap water. I also know people who use some RO mixed with tap
water. It really depends on your water and what you need.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FoRTy-TwO
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

Ok, as far as phosphates go... Marine aquariums do not need to eliminate
phosphates completely because you need live rock to purify your water...
Live rock has coraline on it which is forms of algae that eat bad
bacteria... If you eliminate phosphates then your live rock will in
turn... die... Also... As I mentioned before... Algae is not all bad...
That is a wives tale in the aquarium hobby... As far as the iron goes...
Coraline also needs to eat minerals such as that... If you're not going
to do a marine aquarium... Then the iron and other minerals are not
necesary but small amounts aren't going to hurt
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20397 From: jane parry Date: 1/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
It took me over a year to get my bettas to breed. What finally worked was a 10 gallon aquarium with the male in the aquarium and the female floating in separate container in that aqarium. The water needs to be about 82 degrees with no filter or air stone. After the male had blown a nest. I released the female. They mated shortly after that. The mating was very beautiful. The male wrapped himself around the female and after she released the eggs, he collected the eggs and blew them in the nest. The female ate the eggs that the male could not get to. I removed the female as soon as they bred. Four days later, I removed the male. You need to keep the water very clean with daily water changes. The fry need to be fed every 4 hours. I got several fry which grew quickly. After about 4 months. the babies started fighting with each other and I had to separate everyone, even the females. We used every glass, jar and cup in the house. We had 45 bettas.

Good luck. It is difficult to get bettas to bred but it was interesting to watch the process.

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
What has gone wrong is that your bettas have obviously not read the
same books you have. LOL. Honestly there is no one single way that is
best to breed bettas. And sometimes things just don't work out, even
for people who think they have it down pat. Sometimes it takes a while
for the bettas to warm up to each other, sometimes they make great
buddies, but never mate, sometimes they decide to kill each other right
away. Some male bettas never blow a bubble nest, and instead spit the
eggs and fry up on top of floating plant masses.

Most often though, when the bettas are not breeding, it is because they
were inadequately conditioned (fed rich foods and kept in very warm
conditions in tannin rich water)

So What is your current setup? Do you have fry food ready? What are
the water perameters, the tank size, the furnishings of the
tank...etc... knowing this will help us to try to narrow things down
for you.

> So this is the first time, I have attempted to breed my Betta's. We
> have done everything that has been suggested from all of the reading
> we have done. But now we are running into a problem.
> Biggie (our male Betta) was introduced to Little Lady and was kept in
> a hurricane lamp for about a week now. But Biggie has not blown a
> bubble nest. This afternoon we released Little Lady, thinking that
> might encourage him to make a nest... and nothing has happened.
> What has gone wrong?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Adrian
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20398 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
That is one way to do it. I allow the father to rear the fry. It is
much easier on all concerned. I have heavily planted tanks, and I
keep the filter on low, with a sponge wrapped around the intake to
keep from sucking up tiny fry. The sponge also collects infusoria
for fry to nibble on as it ages. You have to rinse it out
periodically, but that's not a big job. Since my tank is heavily
planted and the bettas have a place to hide, I can leave my females
in with my males for quite a long time without them getting nipped up
(usually) I don't float them in jars, I let them out just before I
turn the lights off at night so that they can get a scent of each
other. In the morning they start courting, and usually by that
afternoon there's a bubble nest and a spawn. However, sometimes it
just doesn't work out that way.

I have had four instances in which the female actually helped the
male raise the spawn. The pairs were inseperable. Those are not the
norm, but I encourage it and try to make sure those pairs reproduce
when it happens. Most pairs I have to take the female out
immediately after the male says they are done.

Because the tank is heavily planted, there is plenty of infusoria for
the fry, so I only have to do twice a day feedings. The first week
or so I use egg yolk crumbled into water, strained, and then spritzed
out of a spray bottle on top of the water. AFter that, bbs, powdered
Omega one flake food, powdered freeze dried foods...etc...work for
me. And yes, daily water changes will help your fry to grow much
more quickly. Again, use a sponge filter over the end of the siphon
hose to keep from sucking up fry

When the male raises the fry, you get fewer fry, as the male will
cull or eat all the weak and malformed fry and eggs. The rest he
will frequently mouth and spit out. The antibacterial properties in
his mouth slime help them to fend off fungus and bacteria, so the
remaining fry, though usually there are only 20 or so, are hardy in
the extreme. Also, as long as I keep them with the father, even when
they are adults, there is no fighting amongst them. Once the father
is removed from the equation, they nip around a bit, but are still
capable of sharing the tank. Their fins stay shorter until such time
as they are individually housed, and then grow in to full.

So you see, there are drastically different ways to do it. Find the
way that works for you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20399 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I'd have to agree with Steve here. If you don't know what's in your
well or tap water, I wouldn't use it straight without treating it
somehow, like with my tap water purifier.

If, for some reason, you tried it as an experiment on your salt water
tank and it worked out well, then more power to you and you are
lucky. The reason that I don't use untreated well or tap water, even
if it is good, is what Steve said; whatever is in the water itself
will be added to the salt mix when dissolved. Also, if there is a
trace of a toxic chemical or mineral that you are unaware of (maybe
from leaching in underground or put there by the water company) it
may hinder attempts at growing certain species of coral or inverts,
or even a water quality-sensitive fish - or worse. At least with
treated water, I knew exactly how much of what was going into the
water, and then I could add whatever else I wanted or more of what
was lacking. I was very successful at reef keeping years ago until I
got divorced, then I couldn't keep a salt tank anymore. I wish I
could get back into reef keeping, but until my living situation
changes, I'm stuck with a few nano fresh tanks with inverts...not
bad, but I miss my reef tanks.

If I were to start a reef tank down here, I would use RO water almost
certainly. I already mentioned about the excess arsenic in some well
water supplies out here, and who know what else is in my water. I'd
rather be safe than sorry when it comes to starting a reef tank in
this area of the country. If I won't drink it myself, I'm certainly
not going to put fish in it.

Snert

BTW... I didn't say I had problems with brown algae... I said that in
my containers that I water my plants with I have brown algae in them
from the well water. Since I don't use the well water in my fish
tanks, I don't have a brown algae problem. I don't think I ever had a
brown algae problem, now that you mention it...even back home in PA.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...>
wrote:
>
> Uh... I use the well water on my marine aquarium also... So you do
NOT need RO water... I have fresh, salt and brackish aquariums and
all do fine... About the brown algae... When you see some start to
bloom... Wipe it down... Don't over feed the fish and that will keep
the phosphates down also
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:01:48 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to
use RO
> water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
> water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think
about
> what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not
go to
> the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20400 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I didn't do it as an experiment... I HAVE a marine aquarium running off of well water


----- Original Message ----
From: snerticus <Snerticus@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 9:40:36 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

I'd have to agree with Steve here. If you don't know what's in your
well or tap water, I wouldn't use it straight without treating it
somehow, like with my tap water purifier.

If, for some reason, you tried it as an experiment on your salt water
tank and it worked out well, then more power to you and you are
lucky. The reason that I don't use untreated well or tap water, even
if it is good, is what Steve said; whatever is in the water itself
will be added to the salt mix when dissolved. Also, if there is a
trace of a toxic chemical or mineral that you are unaware of (maybe
from leaching in underground or put there by the water company) it
may hinder attempts at growing certain species of coral or inverts,
or even a water quality-sensitive fish - or worse. At least with
treated water, I knew exactly how much of what was going into the
water, and then I could add whatever else I wanted or more of what
was lacking. I was very successful at reef keeping years ago until I
got divorced, then I couldn't keep a salt tank anymore. I wish I
could get back into reef keeping, but until my living situation
changes, I'm stuck with a few nano fresh tanks with inverts...not
bad, but I miss my reef tanks.

If I were to start a reef tank down here, I would use RO water almost
certainly. I already mentioned about the excess arsenic in some well
water supplies out here, and who know what else is in my water. I'd
rather be safe than sorry when it comes to starting a reef tank in
this area of the country. If I won't drink it myself, I'm certainly
not going to put fish in it.

Snert

BTW... I didn't say I had problems with brown algae... I said that in
my containers that I water my plants with I have brown algae in them
from the well water. Since I don't use the well water in my fish
tanks, I don't have a brown algae problem. I don't think I ever had a
brown algae problem, now that you mention it...even back home in PA.

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@ ...>
wrote:
>
> Uh... I use the well water on my marine aquarium also... So you do
NOT need RO water... I have fresh, salt and brackish aquariums and
all do fine... About the brown algae... When you see some start to
bloom... Wipe it down... Don't over feed the fish and that will keep
the phosphates down also
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Saturday, January 13, 2007 12:01:48 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
>
> If you are going with saltwater, then you probably would want to
use RO
> water to mix the salt with. If you stay with fresh, then, give this
> water a try, and if it does cause problems, then start to think
about
> what you can do to rectify the problems it is causing. I would not
go to
> the expense and effort to cure a problem that I may not have.
>
> \\Steve//
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20401 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Freshwater algae - interesting type
While writing another post, I remembered something about a tiny 1.5 gal
tank I have with a dwarf gourami, some gammarus, and snails. It is one
of those cheap hex tanks you can buy at Walmart or Petsmart. There is
an interesting type of algae growing in it, and it's quite pretty. It
doesn't seem to take over the tank, but it does remind me of the
encrusting algae in my old reef tanks.

It's sort of an encrusting bright green almost chartreuse color. It is
flat and covers the sides of the tank and the substrate and rocks. I
really like it! Does anyone know anything about this type of algae? I
think it developed in a low pH environment, but now the pH is higer due
to some crushed coral I added for the snails. However, I don't take
water parameters in this tank anymore, nor do I filter it, so I can't
be sure of the parameters at this point. It is now more of an
experimental type tank. The gourami seems to be flourishing in it,
though. I guess having that labrynth organ comes in handy for us
fishkeepers sometimes!

Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20402 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Our set up for the Betta's:
We have the male swimming freely in the 20 gallon tank.
The tank has no gravel on the bottom.
We do have running a filter in the tank (which now have learned
should be taken out)
The water parameters are all normal. I'm at work now, so I can't
exactly remember the details. But as of last night, everything
checked out alright. Water temp is around 80 degrees.
The female is in a huricane lamp and has been for about the past
week. Which is inside the males 20 gallon.
There are a few plants in the tank for the female to hide in. With a
styrophome cup on the surface for the male to blow his bubble nest
in.

We did "beef" the fish up before we decided to mate them. For about a
month they were fed bloodworms twice a day. Both fish were purchassed
from aquadbid. They were said to be at their breeding prime and ready
to go.

As for the fry, we are planning them microworms. We do have some and
they are ready to go, once the babies are born.


Let me know if you want any other details.
Thanks
Adrian

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> What has gone wrong is that your bettas have obviously not read the
> same books you have. LOL. Honestly there is no one single way
that is
> best to breed bettas. And sometimes things just don't work out,
even
> for people who think they have it down pat. Sometimes it takes a
while
> for the bettas to warm up to each other, sometimes they make great
> buddies, but never mate, sometimes they decide to kill each other
right
> away. Some male bettas never blow a bubble nest, and instead spit
the
> eggs and fry up on top of floating plant masses.
>
> Most often though, when the bettas are not breeding, it is because
they
> were inadequately conditioned (fed rich foods and kept in very warm
> conditions in tannin rich water)
>
> So What is your current setup? Do you have fry food ready? What
are
> the water perameters, the tank size, the furnishings of the
> tank...etc... knowing this will help us to try to narrow things
down
> for you.
>
>
> > So this is the first time, I have attempted to breed my Betta's.
We
> > have done everything that has been suggested from all of the
reading
> > we have done. But now we are running into a problem.
> > Biggie (our male Betta) was introduced to Little Lady and was
kept in
> > a hurricane lamp for about a week now. But Biggie has not blown a
> > bubble nest. This afternoon we released Little Lady, thinking
that
> > might encourage him to make a nest... and nothing has happened.
> > What has gone wrong?
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> > Adrian
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20403 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
It's been a while, but I remember it took me almost a year to get
mine to breed too. Although when it did happen, I was successful
with the rest of my attempts.

I remember setting up a 10 gal with lots of artificial plants and
some java moss or the like (for the fry to hide in and anyone else
that might need a secure spot). I put the female in the hurricane
lamp for a few days and the male did his thing. I think there was a
bubble sponge filter in the corner, but the bubbles were very slow
and didn't disturb the water very much. The male got used to the
female, flared a bit around her, and I placed a styrofoam half-cup in
the corner where he made his bubble nest. That for some reason
always seemed to work. I let the female out after a few days and the
male chased her around beating her up a bit, but she was okay. He
flared and displayed, then curled around her while she released the
eggs. When this behavior slowed down or stopped, I took the female
out. After the fry hatched, I left the male in for a few days and
then removed him. I would not leave him in the tank much longer than
that until you got used to the breeding process. Then, if you want
to experiment, I would try letting him rear the fry. But since it's
your first time, regardless of what others might tell you - don't
leave the male in. The fry may be fine, but if you're like me,
murphy's law will kick in, and that would be the one time in a
thousand the male decided he liked the taste of babies!

Snert

http://www.snerticus.nstemp.com/FishRoom.html

Here are some pics on an old web site I kept when I lived in PA.
Sorry about the popups! The pic in the center were my spawning
tanks. They worked wonderfully. The room's a mess, sorry 'bout
that! At least I kept my jars sparkling clean! :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> So this is the first time, I have attempted to breed my Betta's. We
> have done everything that has been suggested from all of the
reading
> we have done. But now we are running into a problem.
> Biggie (our male Betta) was introduced to Little Lady and was kept
in
> a hurricane lamp for about a week now. But Biggie has not blown a
> bubble nest. This afternoon we released Little Lady, thinking that
> might encourage him to make a nest... and nothing has happened.
> What has gone wrong?
>
> Thanks for the help!
> Adrian
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20405 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
I'm not trying to start an argument here, I know you have an aquarium
or aquariums running off of well water - you mentioned that already. I
was addressing anyone who may want to use well water for the first
time. What happens when someone, who invariably will use well water
and it fails? It's going to happen sooner or later, and it might even
be me! I may decide what the heck, let's just try this well water and
see what happens. That, to me, would be an experiment.

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FoRTy-TwO <wassergottin@...> wrote:
>
> I didn't do it as an experiment... I HAVE a marine aquarium running
off of well water
>
>
=
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20406 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
If there is silicon, usually available as silica, available in your
water, you are probably seeing a species of diatom. I am pretty certain,
from the description that you provide, that it is diatoms. It may not be
from the tap water itself, but from something in the substrate or other
item in the tank that has been dissolved into the water.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 10:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater algae - interesting type

While writing another post, I remembered something about a tiny 1.5 gal
tank I have with a dwarf gourami, some gammarus, and snails. It is one
of those cheap hex tanks you can buy at Walmart or Petsmart. There is
an interesting type of algae growing in it, and it's quite pretty. It
doesn't seem to take over the tank, but it does remind me of the
encrusting algae in my old reef tanks.

It's sort of an encrusting bright green almost chartreuse color. It is
flat and covers the sides of the tank and the substrate and rocks. I
really like it! Does anyone know anything about this type of algae? I
think it developed in a low pH environment, but now the pH is higer due
to some crushed coral I added for the snails. However, I don't take
water parameters in this tank anymore, nor do I filter it, so I can't
be sure of the parameters at this point. It is now more of an
experimental type tank. The gourami seems to be flourishing in it,
though. I guess having that labrynth organ comes in handy for us
fishkeepers sometimes!

Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20407 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
I was thinking about starting a salt again. last time I did it I was too im
patient and stuff died, Over the past few months I have had a 3 gallon mini
reef with just rock and some sand and coral rubble. I have fed the rock a
mineral supplement and I know there is more I must be feeding it, I just dont know
what.
Maybe I will have some small fish but, I mainly just want to have a reef.
I thought of having a nano tank because I heard that everything is built
into the takn. Filter, skimmer ect. And I really don't know how to run these
things or what they even are.



Many blessings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20408 From: Carol Harrell Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
Nano/Mini tank? Oh, I want to hear more about these. I enjoy watching the live rock, corral, etc. If there is a way for me to have maybe a 10 gallon tank this way, it would be perfect. Any instructions out there????

Carol



Morganawolf1@... wrote: I was thinking about starting a salt again. last time I did it I was too im
patient and stuff died, Over the past few months I have had a 3 gallon mini
reef with just rock and some sand and coral rubble. I have fed the rock a
mineral supplement and I know there is more I must be feeding it, I just dont know
what.
Maybe I will have some small fish but, I mainly just want to have a reef.
I thought of having a nano tank because I heard that everything is built
into the takn. Filter, skimmer ect. And I really don't know how to run these
things or what they even are.


Many blessings
Karen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Carol
[Owned by Booboo (7-yr old, 2# Yorkie), Xena (2-yr old rescued, black domestic shorthair cat), and Gabrielle (2-yr old rescued Ragdoll cat)]



---------------------------------
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20409 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
_Nano Cube Aquarium Kits: 6 & 12 Gallon Nano Cube Aquariums at Drs. Foster &
Smith_
(http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=10677&N=2004+62760)
There ya go

Many blessings
Karen


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20410 From: Joe Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe!
> Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the
thank
> but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And what
> does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking at
> fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or NOT
> with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
> Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
>
> Julie
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
reef..
> > >
> >
> >
> > Hey Julie
> > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot
of
> > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
worry
> > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
stabilize
> > your parameters.
> > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
upgrade to
> > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more attention
you
> > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> >
>
Hey Julie.
How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is and
their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per gallon of
water.
Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set up,
and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory fish;ie
lion fish,puffers.
Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock help
break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds of
live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little critters
like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some fish
eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
source.
Hope this helps out. Joe

Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20411 From: jfazio Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Evaporation/diatom filters
Hi:

My 55 gallon tank loses about an inch of water every 3 days, or so. I've
covered the open areas with foil in the hope of keeping that from
happening, but so far, no luck. Any thoughts on preventing that from
happening and is it okay to simply replenish the water with new water?

Steve, thanks for your help with the diatomaceous earth filters. According
the the aquarium guys website, the vortex can be used more long term than
at least the system 1.

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20412 From: Joe Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey Joe!
> > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the
> thank
> > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
what
> > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking
at
> > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
NOT
> > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
> > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> >
> > Julie
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> reef..
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Julie
> > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot
> of
> > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> worry
> > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> stabilize
> > > your parameters.
> > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> upgrade to
> > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
attention
> you
> > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > >
> >
> Hey Julie.
> How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
and
> their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per gallon
of
> water.
> Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set up,
> and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
fish;ie
> lion fish,puffers.
> Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock help
> break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds of
> live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
critters
> like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some fish
> eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> source.
> Hope this helps out. Joe
>
> Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best help
>
Opps,,made a bad post,,ment to type that the rule of thumb is one
inch of adult fish per 5 gallon of water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20413 From: iowakoi Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Koi pond and water garden design
Now is the time to dream about a new water garden. take the time to
research exactly what you want. The needs of a water garden plants are
varied so knowing what you want is important. We have watergarden kits
that show you how to go about designing the perfect water garden. Check
us out at http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20414 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Air pump timing
What would the effects be of putting my air pump on a timer? I heard
from a friend that it can help the plants absorb CO2 if the pump is
shut off during the evening. Is this true?

Thanks,

Ryan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20415 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Your house must have low humidity in it. If you boost the humidity,
you'll lose less water, but this is not always possible. I keep the
house at around 40% humidity, though it is often higher this winter, and
still lose a lot of water. It is just one of those things you need to
deal with.

You can top off the tank, but, keep in mind that when water evaporates,
it is only the H2O that is removed. Any or all minerals and compounds in
the water remain behind in higher concentrations. Adding water not only
adds the H2O that has gone missing, but these other minerals and
compounds that are already being concentrated.

For most, this would not be too much of a worry. However, overtime it
does buildup in the tank. Just do a small water change every three days
or so, about 10%, and leave it at that. Every so often, do a larger one.
Your fish will like it, and do much better for the little effort
required.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jfazio
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 5:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Evaporation/diatom filters

Hi:

My 55 gallon tank loses about an inch of water every 3 days, or so.
I've
covered the open areas with foil in the hope of keeping that from
happening, but so far, no luck. Any thoughts on preventing that from
happening and is it okay to simply replenish the water with new water?

Steve, thanks for your help with the diatomaceous earth filters.
According
the the aquarium guys website, the vortex can be used more long term
than
at least the system 1.

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20416 From: snerticus Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
That's strange because I use Sparkletts water in all my tanks,
although each of them has a different substrate. One has a flourite
substrate, the other all crushed coral, and this one has a generic
white gravel in it with some crushed coral as well. Maybe it's from
the generic gravel - none of my other tanks have that particular
gravel or that particular algae.

It's quite interesting and doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
Of course, my snails can't eat it, but it's not getting out of hand
at all, which is a good thing. I definitely don't want to get rid of
it at this point.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> If there is silicon, usually available as silica, available in your
> water, you are probably seeing a species of diatom. I am pretty
certain,
> from the description that you provide, that it is diatoms. It may
not be
> from the tap water itself, but from something in the substrate or
other
> item in the tank that has been dissolved into the water.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of snerticus
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 10:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater algae - interesting type
>
> While writing another post, I remembered something about a tiny 1.5
gal
> tank I have with a dwarf gourami, some gammarus, and snails. It is
one
> of those cheap hex tanks you can buy at Walmart or Petsmart. There
is
> an interesting type of algae growing in it, and it's quite pretty.
It
> doesn't seem to take over the tank, but it does remind me of the
> encrusting algae in my old reef tanks.
>
> It's sort of an encrusting bright green almost chartreuse color.
It is
> flat and covers the sides of the tank and the substrate and rocks.
I
> really like it! Does anyone know anything about this type of
algae? I
> think it developed in a low pH environment, but now the pH is higer
due
> to some crushed coral I added for the snails. However, I don't
take
> water parameters in this tank anymore, nor do I filter it, so I
can't
> be sure of the parameters at this point. It is now more of an
> experimental type tank. The gourami seems to be flourishing in it,
> though. I guess having that labrynth organ comes in handy for us
> fishkeepers sometimes!
>
> Snert
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20417 From: jules27au Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Silver Dollar Question
Hi There,

It's magic watching the Aussie Open in Melbourne today, but during a
heat delay I have question..

I have two Silver Dollars in my tank, one of which has developed
orange markings around it's mouth, can any one tell me what this means?

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20418 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type
Silica is one of the more widely available minerals in this world. It
could be in most anything. The lack of water changes in this tank would
cause the concentration of silica to the extent that the diatoms can use
it. Start doing water changes and the silica will decrease as will your
diatom colony, over time.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of snerticus
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 9:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Freshwater algae - interesting type

That's strange because I use Sparkletts water in all my tanks,
although each of them has a different substrate. One has a flourite
substrate, the other all crushed coral, and this one has a generic
white gravel in it with some crushed coral as well. Maybe it's from
the generic gravel - none of my other tanks have that particular
gravel or that particular algae.

It's quite interesting and doesn't seem to be causing any problems.
Of course, my snails can't eat it, but it's not getting out of hand
at all, which is a good thing. I definitely don't want to get rid of
it at this point.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> If there is silicon, usually available as silica, available in your
> water, you are probably seeing a species of diatom. I am pretty
certain,
> from the description that you provide, that it is diatoms. It may
not be
> from the tap water itself, but from something in the substrate or
other
> item in the tank that has been dissolved into the water.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of snerticus
> Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 10:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater algae - interesting type
>
> While writing another post, I remembered something about a tiny 1.5
gal
> tank I have with a dwarf gourami, some gammarus, and snails. It is
one
> of those cheap hex tanks you can buy at Walmart or Petsmart. There
is
> an interesting type of algae growing in it, and it's quite pretty.
It
> doesn't seem to take over the tank, but it does remind me of the
> encrusting algae in my old reef tanks.
>
> It's sort of an encrusting bright green almost chartreuse color.
It is
> flat and covers the sides of the tank and the substrate and rocks.
I
> really like it! Does anyone know anything about this type of
algae? I
> think it developed in a low pH environment, but now the pH is higer
due
> to some crushed coral I added for the snails. However, I don't
take
> water parameters in this tank anymore, nor do I filter it, so I
can't
> be sure of the parameters at this point. It is now more of an
> experimental type tank. The gourami seems to be flourishing in it,
> though. I guess having that labrynth organ comes in handy for us
> fishkeepers sometimes!
>
> Snert
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20419 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Betta Fish Food.
Hi Everyone.

I got some news which I just learnt. I found out from this company
PetsMat Group that they have a good Betta fish food. It is promotes
healty growth of the fish & enhance the colour. The pellets does not
sinks into the tank fast. I am going to get a bottle for my friend as
he has a Betta fish to try out. Would any one of you guys want to try
out? Let me know as I know the owner of the shop keeper.

Nicole Tan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20420 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: snails for cold water?
Would small brown or red ramshorn snails do alright in an unheated tank (67
F)?

I went today to check on my tanks at my parents house (hadn't done a water
change in 3 wk) and the algae in the 55 gal tank has gone nuts in my
absence! I checked the nitrates-20 ppm, lower than they've been in a long
time; I think the algae and plants are doing their job and keeping the water
nice and clean. I am not interested in getting rid of the algae altogether,
and the swords seem to be doing better with the brighter lights. I just want
someone to "trim" the algae. I remove excess floating algae when I go over
there, but I only scrub down the front of the tank (never the back and
rarely the sides). I have one large ramshorn in the tank now, but I think he
needs some help :)

I don't want any more fish in the tank. I have 5 already (bluegills, comets,
and a bullhead).

Thanks!
Emily


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20421 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
I'd like a list of ingredients. My favorite foods so far are from
omega one.

> Hi Everyone.
>
> I got some news which I just learnt. I found out from this company
> PetsMat Group that they have a good Betta fish food. It is promotes
> healty growth of the fish & enhance the colour. The pellets does not
> sinks into the tank fast. I am going to get a bottle for my friend as
> he has a Betta fish to try out. Would any one of you guys want to try
> out? Let me know as I know the owner of the shop keeper.
>
> Nicole Tan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20422 From: Nicole Tan Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
Hi Cynthia,

Will get to you on this once I get a bottle myself. Thanks for responding.


Regards


Nicole Tan Beng Im



----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:35:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Betta Fish Food.

I'd like a list of ingredients. My favorite foods so far are from
omega one.

> Hi Everyone.
>
> I got some news which I just learnt. I found out from this company
> PetsMat Group that they have a good Betta fish food. It is promotes
> healty growth of the fish & enhance the colour. The pellets does not
> sinks into the tank fast. I am going to get a bottle for my friend as
> he has a Betta fish to try out. Would any one of you guys want to try
> out? Let me know as I know the owner of the shop keeper.
>
> Nicole Tan
>




Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20423 From: Walden Nida Date: 1/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Breeding Help
Usually a 5 or ten gallon aquarium works best for breeding bettas. You
should only have four to six inches of water in the tank and a sponge filter
should be used. Regulate the air to the point you are getting one bubble
per second. This will keep the bacteria alive but not disturb the nest, If
you have them use live plants as they will provide food for the young fry
and a hiding place for the female. I feed mainly daphnia to the parents and
the fry. The fry will eat the baby daphnia and when they grow they will eat
the adult daphnia. Bettas are prone to breed with the approach of a
thunderstorm. Female bettas will show bars when they are ready to breed.
Breeding is also encouraged by the addition of tannin to the water, Amazon
Rain, Black Water Extract or Betta Spa will greatly increase you chances.
If they do not breed try adding some cool water to the tank as this
sometimes will encourage them to spawn. I always add salt to my water, as
it will control velvet. I pull my male as I like the large spawns of 100 or
more. Do not change the water at first and after a week add a gallon of
water slowly each day until the tank is full. At this point you can start
water changes. At first change only about a forth of the water. You can
siphon through an air stone and you will not siphon the fry. Use a turkey
baster to clean the bottom of the tank. Watch you ammonia levels and if
they get high do a water change earlier. The ammonia spike is usually
caused by over feeding. You can increase the speed of the air as the fry
grow. I have killed more fry from over feeding than any thing else. Bettas
can eat newly hatch BBS at three days of age and until that point they will
survive on the egg sack.

Wally
Texas Betta Society


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20424 From: Nicole Tan Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Fish Food.
Hi Cynthia,

Just got a bottle of Betta Food. The ingredients are
Premium White Fish Meal.
Krill Meal.
Fresh Prawn Meal.
Wheat Flour, Wheat Germ Meal.
Yeast,
Vegetable Protein.
Fish Oil.
Egg Meal.
Fish Liver Meal.
Lecithine.
B-Carotene.
Astaxanthin.
Stabilized Vitamin.
Minerals.
Regards,



Nicole Tan Beng Im



----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 11:35:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Betta Fish Food.

I'd like a list of ingredients. My favorite foods so far are from
omega one.

> Hi Everyone.
>
> I got some news which I just learnt. I found out from this company
> PetsMat Group that they have a good Betta fish food. It is promotes
> healty growth of the fish & enhance the colour. The pellets does not
> sinks into the tank fast. I am going to get a bottle for my friend as
> he has a Betta fish to try out. Would any one of you guys want to try
> out? Let me know as I know the owner of the shop keeper.
>
> Nicole Tan
>




Send instant messages to your online friends http://uk.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20425 From: Julie Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Hey Joe,
Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish, in
my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the amount
of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for the
rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand? Livesand
cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30 lbs
..HELP!!!!


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey Joe!
> > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the
> thank
> > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
what
> > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking
at
> > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
NOT
> > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
> > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> >
> > Julie
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> reef..
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Julie
> > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot
> of
> > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> worry
> > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> stabilize
> > > your parameters.
> > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> upgrade to
> > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
attention
> you
> > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > >
> >
> Hey Julie.
> How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
and
> their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per gallon
of
> water.
> Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set up,
> and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
fish;ie
> lion fish,puffers.
> Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock help
> break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds of
> live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
critters
> like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some fish
> eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> source.
> Hope this helps out. Joe
>
> Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best help
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20426 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Thanks, Steve! I also wonder whether it isn't those air stones
causing it, too, as they sprinkle little drops out of the top. I
have foil covering the holes where the mist comes out, but it still
must be effecting the water level. The bubblers are all the way down
to the bottom of the tank, too, so that isn't it. Thanks, again! Jeannie

At 09:14 PM 1/15/2007, you wrote:

>Your house must have low humidity in it. If you boost the humidity,
>you'll lose less water, but this is not always possible. I keep the
>house at around 40% humidity, though it is often higher this winter, and
>still lose a lot of water. It is just one of those things you need to
>deal with.
>
>You can top off the tank, but, keep in mind that when water evaporates,
>it is only the H2O that is removed. Any or all minerals and compounds in
>the water remain behind in higher concentrations. Adding water not only
>adds the H2O that has gone missing, but these other minerals and
>compounds that are already being concentrated.
>
>For most, this would not be too much of a worry. However, overtime it
>does buildup in the tank. Just do a small water change every three days
>or so, about 10%, and leave it at that. Every so often, do a larger one.
>Your fish will like it, and do much better for the little effort
>required.
>



Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20427 From: wildkids3@yahoo.com Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Hope it's okay if I respond to this..
We have a 55 g. tank and a 30 g..Due to the fact that liverock is so expensive..We started with just three medium sized rocks and a couple of smaller ones to make caves for the fish..
We have a 10 gallon tank that we use just to cycle rocks..That way we can purchase a couple at a time..cycle them and then put them into the other tanks..
Liverock is cheaper to purchase if you cycle it yourself..
Also, if you have a Petco anywhere near you..their much cheaper on their sand and salt than our LFS's..

Hope,


----- Original Message ----
From: Julie <beachsidejuj@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 10:11:40 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!

Hey Joe,
Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish, in
my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the amount
of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek! ! for the
rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand? Livesand
cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30 lbs
..HELP!!!!

In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@ ...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@ > wrote:
> >
> > Hey Joe!
> > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get the
> thank
> > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
what
> > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was looking
at
> > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
NOT
> > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock system?
> > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> >
> > Julie
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@ > wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@ >
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> reef..
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Julie
> > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and alot
> of
> > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> worry
> > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> stabilize
> > > your parameters.
> > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> upgrade to
> > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
attention
> you
> > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > >
> >
> Hey Julie.
> How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
and
> their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per gallon
of
> water.
> Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set up,
> and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
fish;ie
> lion fish,puffers.
> Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock help
> break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds of
> live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
critters
> like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish . Some fish
> eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> source.
> Hope this helps out. Joe
>
> Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best help
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20428 From: iowakoi Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: The best Food for bettas
I have had serveral bettas that have just loved newly hacthed brine
shrimp. However I've had the beat luck with Hikari Goldfish and betta
Bio Gold. It comes on a neat little card that helps reduce over feeding.
You can get it for just $2.49 at http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com> . If youemail
richdeer3@... <mailto:richdeer3@...> I'm willing to give
you a volume discount if your oder 5 or more. thanks and enjoy one of
the most colorful fish in the world.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20429 From: Cory Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Update on Snails in Tank
I have an update on the snails I brought into my tank from a live
plant. We dipped all we could stand and found a product at our local
pet store called "Had A Snail". It is a liquid, uses 1 drop per
gallon, take charcoal filter out while using. Had to do 2 treatments
several days apart, but we haven't seen any more snails for a while.
This product doesn't harm the fish in the tank, either. Thanks for all
the ideas a while back. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20430 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Evaporation/diatom filters
Don't know if it's possible for you, but you might consider an auto top off system.

Sean


----- Original Message -----
From: ~~JFazio~~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:18 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Evaporation/diatom filters


Thanks, Steve! I also wonder whether it isn't those air stones
causing it, too, as they sprinkle little drops out of the top. I
have foil covering the holes where the mist comes out, but it still
must be effecting the water level. The bubblers are all the way down
to the bottom of the tank, too, so that isn't it. Thanks, again! Jeannie

At 09:14 PM 1/15/2007, you wrote:

>Your house must have low humidity in it. If you boost the humidity,
>you'll lose less water, but this is not always possible. I keep the
>house at around 40% humidity, though it is often higher this winter, and
>still lose a lot of water. It is just one of those things you need to
>deal with.
>
>You can top off the tank, but, keep in mind that when water evaporates,
>it is only the H2O that is removed. Any or all minerals and compounds in
>the water remain behind in higher concentrations. Adding water not only
>adds the H2O that has gone missing, but these other minerals and
>compounds that are already being concentrated.
>
>For most, this would not be too much of a worry. However, overtime it
>does buildup in the tank. Just do a small water change every three days
>or so, about 10%, and leave it at that. Every so often, do a larger one.
>Your fish will like it, and do much better for the little effort
>required.
>

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20431 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
and trunks.
We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
only to lose them this morning.
There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
try to find a way to get them to a home which had
power but when I woke up this morning and checked
them, they were no longer breathing.
I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
to the house and get new tank members once the cold
weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
weather.
Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
power back as soon as possible.

Thank you,
Beth

http://fa.f-realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for two rings at the bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and series characters of Sailor Moon.



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20432 From: figueroa_sean Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
I've got a 24g AquaPod Nano Reef tank which was my introduction to the
saltwater hobby, I've also got a 3g Picotope that I've just begun to
add livestock to as it's recently completed it's cycle.

IMHO Nano tanks give you a much more intimate view into reef keeping
than larger tanks (again, this is my opinion, no offense to those with
larger reef tanks). Since you're working in a much more confined area
you tend to pay more attention to detail (this is based on my
experience with my 100g freshwater and my 24g/3g saltwater - I am
working on a 120g reef tank to test this theory ;-) ).

That said, MUCH more care needs to be taken with a nano simply due to
the smaller volume (like you said there is less margin for error).
The old saying "only bad things happen quickly in a reef tank" holds
much more weight with a nano.

I've found: http://www.nano-reef.com/ to be a very valuable source of
information and guidance.

Honestly if I had it to do over again I would not go with an
all-in-one tank. All of the all-in-ones have their issues (be it
heat, lighting, or insufficient flow) and can benefit from
modifications. For example, with my AquaPod I had to swap out the
stock pump and invert the fan to increase flow/reduce heat. Come the
summer I will probably have to add a second fan. By starting a tank
from scratch you get exactly what you want and do not have to work
within the confines of that blasted hood! ;-)


Happy reefing!

Sean

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
<mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
>
> HI ALL!
>
> So I have been doing research on starting my first salt water tank. I
> was given a 55 gallon that I was planning on using. The more I read,
> the more I think it would be a good idea to start with a smaller tank.
> Could any of you give me some input on this? Would it be better to
> start small? Or does it give me more room for error in a larger tank?
> I would go very slowly whether I use the 55 or a smaller tank
> (gradually adding to it). Is there a good place to go online for deals
> on kits? Or for fish supplies? I generally get everything for my FW
> tanks at my LFS. Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks All!!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20433 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
I feel for you, I truely do. We lost all our fish during our power
outage. WE already have the tanks refilled and even a couple of extra
tanks. We also have heating packs which we can use in case of
emergency. This last time we used boiling water in milk jugs around
the aquariums to keep the water warm enough for survival
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20434 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Beth.....how sad......I know how much my fishies mean to us and you will be in our prayers for all of your family and friends during this bad bout with the weather.....Cory

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20435 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Oh Beth, I am so sorry! I get really attached to my animals, and such a loss
for you must be heartbreaking. The poor little guys ;( It's so sad. You did
your best. There was nothing else you could have done. If you have
houseplants, you can bury the little guys in the houseplants to keep them
with you.

Emily

On 1/16/07, Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
> them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
> power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
> were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
> that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
> and trunks.
> We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
> water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
> only to lose them this morning.
> There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
> night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
> try to find a way to get them to a home which had
> power but when I woke up this morning and checked
> them, they were no longer breathing.
> I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
> to the house and get new tank members once the cold
> weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
> Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
> hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
> my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
> two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
> weather.
> Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
> power back as soon as possible.
>
> Thank you,
> Beth
>
> http://fa.f-realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for two rings at the bottom
> of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and series
> characters of Sailor Moon.
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20436 From: Joe Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe,
> Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish,
in
> my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the
amount
> of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
> pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for
the
> rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
> later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand?
Livesand
> cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30
lbs
> ..HELP!!!!
>
> Hey Julie
No, live rock doesnt decrease the amont of fish you can keep. And
yeah,you start it with less rock,thats what I did with my 30.I wish I
could rock for 5 buck a pound,here it runs 13 bucks a pound.Just make
sure when add rock to an estabilished tank that the rock is cured so
you dant have another cycle.
AS far as sand goes,you can go with the cheeper dry sand,just make
sure its aragonite sand.When you add some rock it will seed your sand
and over time it will become live sand.
Also,you might want check into what is called base rock.Most of the
time you can that for 1 to 2 bucks a pound ,add it a few pounds at
time untill you get close to 50 pounds of it,the just pick up 5 or 6
pounds of the live rock.Before you know it,all the base rock will be
live to,and you'll have a beautiful and happy SW set up.
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Joe!
> > > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get
the
> > thank
> > > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
> what
> > > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was
looking
> at
> > > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
> NOT
> > > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock
system?
> > > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> > >
> > > Julie
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> > reef..
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Julie
> > > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and
alot
> > of
> > > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> > worry
> > > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> > stabilize
> > > > your parameters.
> > > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> > upgrade to
> > > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
> attention
> > you
> > > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > > >
> > >
> > Hey Julie.
> > How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
> and
> > their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per
gallon
> of
> > water.
> > Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set
up,
> > and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
> fish;ie
> > lion fish,puffers.
> > Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> > filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock
help
> > break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> > You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds
of
> > live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> > makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
> critters
> > like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some
fish
> > eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> > source.
> > Hope this helps out. Joe
> >
> > Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best
help
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20437 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Beth, So sorry to hear of this. Just too bad you didn't post this
when you saw them no longer breathing this morning. As its been too
many hours now, they unfortunately can not be revived. Next time if
this ever happens, do not give up on them if they appear not to be
breathing -- resume adding heated water again. While I wasn't there
to see them, what you described of the fish and what you described of
the conditions would seem to indicate that the fish went into a form
of a semi-dormant state, not unlike hibernation, similar to what
other cold-blooded animals (turtles, snakes, etc.) will do in
environs much colder than their norm.

One of my import shipments from Germany arrived in this condition
after being placed in the airline's refrigerator at my receiving
airport, by some clerk who didn't know any better when he saw the
markings on the cartons -- "Live Fish - PERISHABLE". The water was
slightly below 50o F and to look at the fish, for all intents and
purposes they appeared dead (they were not breathing -- at least not
noticeably to anyone expecting normal gill movement). They were like
this for at least 4 hours, as it took me an hour alone to get back
from the airport. After I warmed them up, they slowly but surely
revived and made a complete recovery (didn't even get Ich!). I've
recently heard other similar stories like this also, so it wasn't
just a fluke that they came back -- they can be revived if not stone
cold (32o) and if not left cold for too long, if this is what had
happened to yours. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Beth Brownell
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
> them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
> power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
> were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
> that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
> and trunks.
> We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
> water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
> only to lose them this morning.
> There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
> night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
> try to find a way to get them to a home which had
> power but when I woke up this morning and checked
> them, they were no longer breathing.
> I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
> to the house and get new tank members once the cold
> weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
> Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
> hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
> my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
> two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
> weather.
> Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
> power back as soon as possible.
>
> Thank you,
> Beth
>
> http://fa.f-realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for two rings at the
bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and
series characters of Sailor Moon.
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20438 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Just be careful with adding live rock to an established/cycled tank. Any die off on the rock and you've got yourself a mini cycle. Best way to avoid this is to have the fish store package the rock like they would a fish (in a bag with water), make sure it's cured rock (make SURE it's cured, sometimes a LFS will sell a rock as cured when it's really not), and add it in small quantities.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Joe
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe,
> Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish,
in
> my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the
amount
> of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
> pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for
the
> rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
> later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand?
Livesand
> cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30
lbs
> ..HELP!!!!
>
> Hey Julie
No, live rock doesnt decrease the amont of fish you can keep. And
yeah,you start it with less rock,thats what I did with my 30.I wish I
could rock for 5 buck a pound,here it runs 13 bucks a pound.Just make
sure when add rock to an estabilished tank that the rock is cured so
you dant have another cycle.
AS far as sand goes,you can go with the cheeper dry sand,just make
sure its aragonite sand.When you add some rock it will seed your sand
and over time it will become live sand.
Also,you might want check into what is called base rock.Most of the
time you can that for 1 to 2 bucks a pound ,add it a few pounds at
time untill you get close to 50 pounds of it,the just pick up 5 or 6
pounds of the live rock.Before you know it,all the base rock will be
live to,and you'll have a beautiful and happy SW set up.
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Joe!
> > > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get
the
> > thank
> > > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
> what
> > > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was
looking
> at
> > > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
> NOT
> > > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock
system?
> > > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> > >
> > > Julie
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> > reef..
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Julie
> > > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and
alot
> > of
> > > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> > worry
> > > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> > stabilize
> > > > your parameters.
> > > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> > upgrade to
> > > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
> attention
> > you
> > > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > > >
> > >
> > Hey Julie.
> > How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
> and
> > their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per
gallon
> of
> > water.
> > Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set
up,
> > and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
> fish;ie
> > lion fish,puffers.
> > Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> > filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock
help
> > break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> > You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds
of
> > live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> > makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
> critters
> > like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some
fish
> > eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> > source.
> > Hope this helps out. Joe
> >
> > Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best
help
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20439 From: Kevin Batey Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Hey everybody,

I've been eavesdropping on this topic and know only a little bit about saltwater/reef tanks (I have freshwater and blackwater tanks).

Someone posted that 1 inch of fish per gallon would be within guidelines. I was under the impression that with a marine or reef tank that one inch per gallon would be too much. My impression could easily be wrong - I've never done saltwater.

What do you all think?

Thanks!

Kevin


Joe <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe,
> Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish,
in
> my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the
amount
> of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
> pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for
the
> rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
> later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand?
Livesand
> cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30
lbs
> ..HELP!!!!
>
> Hey Julie
No, live rock doesnt decrease the amont of fish you can keep. And
yeah,you start it with less rock,thats what I did with my 30.I wish I
could rock for 5 buck a pound,here it runs 13 bucks a pound.Just make
sure when add rock to an estabilished tank that the rock is cured so
you dant have another cycle.
AS far as sand goes,you can go with the cheeper dry sand,just make
sure its aragonite sand.When you add some rock it will seed your sand
and over time it will become live sand.
Also,you might want check into what is called base rock.Most of the
time you can that for 1 to 2 bucks a pound ,add it a few pounds at
time untill you get close to 50 pounds of it,the just pick up 5 or 6
pounds of the live rock.Before you know it,all the base rock will be
live to,and you'll have a beautiful and happy SW set up.
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Joe!
> > > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get
the
> > thank
> > > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
> what
> > > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was
looking
> at
> > > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
> NOT
> > > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock
system?
> > > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> > >
> > > Julie
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> > reef..
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Julie
> > > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and
alot
> > of
> > > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> > worry
> > > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> > stabilize
> > > > your parameters.
> > > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> > upgrade to
> > > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
> attention
> > you
> > > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > > >
> > >
> > Hey Julie.
> > How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
> and
> > their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per
gallon
> of
> > water.
> > Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set
up,
> > and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
> fish;ie
> > lion fish,puffers.
> > Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> > filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock
help
> > break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> > You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds
of
> > live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> > makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
> critters
> > like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some
fish
> > eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> > source.
> > Hope this helps out. Joe
> >
> > Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best
help
> >
>






---------------------------------
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20440 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Another quick note on this...

You can cure the rock yourself in a bucket with a small powerhead and heater. Just monitor the water, once ammonia and nitrites are 0 you can add the rock to the tank. This way you avoid any potential problems.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Sean C. Figueroa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!


Just be careful with adding live rock to an established/cycled tank. Any die off on the rock and you've got yourself a mini cycle. Best way to avoid this is to have the fish store package the rock like they would a fish (in a bag with water), make sure it's cured rock (make SURE it's cured, sometimes a LFS will sell a rock as cured when it's really not), and add it in small quantities.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Joe
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe,
> Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish,
in
> my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the
amount
> of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
> pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for
the
> rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
> later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand?
Livesand
> cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30
lbs
> ..HELP!!!!
>
> Hey Julie
No, live rock doesnt decrease the amont of fish you can keep. And
yeah,you start it with less rock,thats what I did with my 30.I wish I
could rock for 5 buck a pound,here it runs 13 bucks a pound.Just make
sure when add rock to an estabilished tank that the rock is cured so
you dant have another cycle.
AS far as sand goes,you can go with the cheeper dry sand,just make
sure its aragonite sand.When you add some rock it will seed your sand
and over time it will become live sand.
Also,you might want check into what is called base rock.Most of the
time you can that for 1 to 2 bucks a pound ,add it a few pounds at
time untill you get close to 50 pounds of it,the just pick up 5 or 6
pounds of the live rock.Before you know it,all the base rock will be
live to,and you'll have a beautiful and happy SW set up.
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Joe!
> > > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get
the
> > thank
> > > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
> what
> > > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was
looking
> at
> > > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
> NOT
> > > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock
system?
> > > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> > >
> > > Julie
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> > reef..
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Julie
> > > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and
alot
> > of
> > > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> > worry
> > > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> > stabilize
> > > > your parameters.
> > > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> > upgrade to
> > > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
> attention
> > you
> > > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > > >
> > >
> > Hey Julie.
> > How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
> and
> > their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per
gallon
> of
> > water.
> > Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set
up,
> > and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
> fish;ie
> > lion fish,puffers.
> > Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> > filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock
help
> > break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> > You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds
of
> > live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> > makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
> critters
> > like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some
fish
> > eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> > source.
> > Hope this helps out. Joe
> >
> > Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best
help
> >
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20441 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
that really sucks...sorry to hear that. Something you may want to consider
is picking up a Uninterruptible Power Supply that is made for
computers...they can run a computer and monitor for 20minutes to several
hours, depending on size. The low wattage of heaters and pumps would go for
quite some time. I am sorry for your loss ;-(

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Tuesday, 16 January 2007 15:44
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice
storm.



And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
and trunks.
We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
only to lose them this morning.
There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
try to find a way to get them to a home which had
power but when I woke up this morning and checked
them, they were no longer breathing.
I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
to the house and get new tank members once the cold
weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
weather.
Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
power back as soon as possible.

Thank you,
Beth

http://fa.f- <http://fa.f-realm.com/> realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for
two rings at the bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/>
yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/>
yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and series characters of
Sailor Moon.

__________________________________________________________
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games. <http://games.yahoo.com/games/front> yahoo.com/games/front





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20442 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie!!
Hey Kevin, good catch!

There's no such standard with marine and especially reef tanks. What you can keep depends on the size of the tank and the species of fish you are looking at keeping (again, research research research!). Some smaller fish require quite a bit of swimming room; the common damsel for example is notorious for being aggressive to tank-mates simply because in the wild their territories span distances much larger than most home aquariums. Even though these fish are extremely hardy and sold as a "beginner" fish, not knowing about the species could cause problems.

Sean


----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Batey
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie!!


Hey everybody,

I've been eavesdropping on this topic and know only a little bit about saltwater/reef tanks (I have freshwater and blackwater tanks).

Someone posted that 1 inch of fish per gallon would be within guidelines. I was under the impression that with a marine or reef tank that one inch per gallon would be too much. My impression could easily be wrong - I've never done saltwater.

What do you all think?

Thanks!

Kevin


Joe <yotehunter76@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Joe,
> Ok, if I have a 50g, then it means I can get 12.5, 4 inch fish,
in
> my tank...but what about the live rock? Does it decrease the
amount
> of fish I can put in the tank? Also, liverock, costs me 6 bucks pr
> pound and 50 pounds of the stuff would cost me $300....eeek!! for
the
> rock alone...could I start out with less liverock and add more
> later? Could I have less liverock, if I also had livesand?
Livesand
> cost $36 per 20lbs at my LFS...Also "regular" sand is, $25 per 30
lbs
> ..HELP!!!!
>
> Hey Julie
No, live rock doesnt decrease the amont of fish you can keep. And
yeah,you start it with less rock,thats what I did with my 30.I wish I
could rock for 5 buck a pound,here it runs 13 bucks a pound.Just make
sure when add rock to an estabilished tank that the rock is cured so
you dant have another cycle.
AS far as sand goes,you can go with the cheeper dry sand,just make
sure its aragonite sand.When you add some rock it will seed your sand
and over time it will become live sand.
Also,you might want check into what is called base rock.Most of the
time you can that for 1 to 2 bucks a pound ,add it a few pounds at
time untill you get close to 50 pounds of it,the just pick up 5 or 6
pounds of the live rock.Before you know it,all the base rock will be
live to,and you'll have a beautiful and happy SW set up.
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Joe!
> > > Thanks so much for responding to my post. I have yet to get
the
> > thank
> > > but will be in the next few weeks. I am going with the Belkin
> > > method..buy it second hand from a really nice guy. I have one
> > > question..with a 50g how many fish can I have in my tank? And
> what
> > > does it mean when it says that a fish isn't reef? I was
looking
> at
> > > fish online and when it said Reef some times it would say NO or
> NOT
> > > with shrimp. Can I do more fish with a livesand, liverock
system?
> > > Thanks ooodles for you offer of help!
> > >
> > > Julie
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe" <yotehunter76@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Ugg, I have been told that 55 in to small of a tank to do a
> > reef..
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Julie
> > > > A 55 is NOT to small for a reef.I have a 30 gal reef,and
alot
> > of
> > > > friends that keep nano 12 gal reefs.
> > > > Of course the bigger you can go with it,the less you have to
> > worry
> > > > about it.Bigger tanks just have more water which helps to
> > stabilize
> > > > your parameters.
> > > > I feel its actually better to learn with small setups and
> > upgrade to
> > > > the larger ones because the smaller your tank,the more
> attention
> > you
> > > > have to give it,which IMHO is what makes this hobby fun.
> > > >
> > >
> > Hey Julie.
> > How many fish you can keep all depends on what kind of fish it is
> and
> > their adult size. The rule of thumb is one ince of fish per
gallon
> of
> > water.
> > Some fish nip or even eat corals if your going for a reef set
up,
> > and some fish specilize in eatting shrimp.Like your predatory
> fish;ie
> > lion fish,puffers.
> > Live sand and doesn't allow you more fish,its just great
> > filtration.The bacteria that live in the sand and on the rock
help
> > break down the waste products from your fish and left over food.
> > You will want to use live sand and i'd suggest 45 to 50 pounds
of
> > live rock,even if your just planing on keeping fish.The live rock
> > makes your tank look more natural,theres all kinds of little
> critters
> > like mysis shrimp,different kinds of pods,crabs,starfish. Some
fish
> > eat the critters that live within the rock so its a natural food
> > source.
> > Hope this helps out. Joe
> >
> > Oh yeah,contact me on yahoo messenger any time, Ill do my best
help
> >
>

---------------------------------
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20443 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] I lost both tanks due to power outage caus
So sorry for your loss, try to stay warm!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Brownell
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 4:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] I lost both tanks due to power outage caused
by ice storm.



And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
and trunks.
We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
only to lose them this morning.
There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
try to find a way to get them to a home which had
power but when I woke up this morning and checked
them, they were no longer breathing.
I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
to the house and get new tank members once the cold
weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
weather.
Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
power back as soon as possible.

Thank you,
Beth

http://fa.f- <http://fa.f-realm.com/> realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for
two rings at the bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/>
yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/>
yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and series characters of
Sailor Moon.

__________________________________________________________
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games. <http://games.yahoo.com/games/front> yahoo.com/games/front





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20444 From: guppielover Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: help with guppies
hi is there someone who can help me,i had 6 female guppies which gave
birth but died two days later,babies died one after the other,now my
remaining femal is pregent,how can i stop them from dying,they are in a
10 gallon planted tank,ph kept at 7.6,tempucher at 74,water changed
every two weeks,help please reguards gloria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20445 From: aclaar877 Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Air pump timing
Well,

At night the plants will absorb O2, not CO2. With a planted tank and
CO2 added, you probably don't need an air pump at all. It will drive
off the CO2 you want for the plants. I have a 55g and 155g planted
tanks with no air pumps. Plenty of oxygen for the fish. If anything,
you can run the air pump for a couple of hours in the middle of the
night, if you're afraid CO2 will get too high during the dark periods.


Andy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Scott Bardsley
<rbardsley@...> wrote:
>
> What would the effects be of putting my air pump on a timer? I
heard
> from a friend that it can help the plants absorb CO2 if the pump is
> shut off during the evening. Is this true?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20446 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
I would check your water chemistry. I have the opposite problem...too many
of them...they are like aquatic rabbits.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of guppielover
Sent: Tuesday, 16 January 2007 19:26
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] help with guppies



hi is there someone who can help me,i had 6 female guppies which gave
birth but died two days later,babies died one after the other,now my
remaining femal is pregent,how can i stop them from dying,they are in a
10 gallon planted tank,ph kept at 7.6,tempucher at 74,water changed
every two weeks,help please reguards gloria






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20447 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: Update on Snails in Tank
The active ingredient in this product is copper sulfate, which will
cause harm, not only to snails, but to other aquatic critters. The do
not use with list includes several critters and a couple of groups, but
certain fish are also sensitive to copper in the water. Also, the
instructions online say to use only in hard water.

Snails are not a bad thing in aquaria. They are normally fairly easy to
keep in check without the use of chemicals. With care in introducing
plants and objects that have been underwater prior to your acquisition,
you can pretty much keep snails out of the aquarium. The methods to use,
however, are not fool proof, and a snail or two will eventually show up.

A product such as this should only be used as an absolute last resort,
so long as you are aware of the dangers of using the product.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 3:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update on Snails in Tank

I have an update on the snails I brought into my tank from a live
plant. We dipped all we could stand and found a product at our local
pet store called "Had A Snail". It is a liquid, uses 1 drop per
gallon, take charcoal filter out while using. Had to do 2 treatments
several days apart, but we haven't seen any more snails for a while.
This product doesn't harm the fish in the tank, either. Thanks for all
the ideas a while back. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20448 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/16/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
My continued prayers are with you this evening for a speedy power
recovery and for trying to keep warm. Thank God you have a
fireplace; hope you have enough wood to keep going. All the best.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Beth Brownell
<spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
>
> And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
> them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
> power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
> were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
> that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
> and trunks.
> We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
> water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
> only to lose them this morning.
> There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
> night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
> try to find a way to get them to a home which had
> power but when I woke up this morning and checked
> them, they were no longer breathing.
> I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
> to the house and get new tank members once the cold
> weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
> Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
> hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
> my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
> two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
> weather.
> Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
> power back as soon as possible.
>
> Thank you,
> Beth
>
> http://fa.f-realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for two rings at the
bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach fans.
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original and
series characters of Sailor Moon.
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20449 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano/mini tanks?
I just wanted to thank you all for the advice. There is so much
information out there it is a bit overwhelming. I think as we already
have a larger tank we will go on with our original plan to use it. Now
we have to start gathering the supplies we will need to maintain it.
And that is a whole other topic!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20450 From: habskahuna Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Update on Snails in Tank
Remember, too, that all those dead snails will decompose and seriously
pollute your tank. Remove any that you can, and be extra diligent
about making water changes for the next little while...

Carmen


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The active ingredient in this product is copper sulfate, which will
> cause harm, not only to snails, but to other aquatic critters.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20451 From: Beth Brownell Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Thankfully, we got two pickup truck loads of firewood delivered to us
last night as we use about fifteen peices within one day and night,
they say it will be another 3 days to 6 days before we are up and
running again.
My mom nearly lost her old cat to the cold, she is taking him and two
other cats to our office which has power and warmth but unfortunely
there was no way to buy a tank and get the tap water decoloranated in
time to save our fish.
Next time, we will be prepared for something like this. I consider
this to be a sad lesson to be learned as I lost my fish.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> My continued prayers are with you this evening for a speedy power
> recovery and for trying to keep warm. Thank God you have a
> fireplace; hope you have enough wood to keep going. All the best.
> Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Beth Brownell
> <spencer_creek_studios@> wrote:
> >
> > And if my LFS was still in town, I might have gave
> > them money to house my 14 fish during our 6 to 10 day
> > power outage here in Camdenton Missouri if the roads
> > were passable totally covered in ice and thick trees
> > that were uprooted by the ice sheets on their branches
> > and trunks.
> > We, my mother and I spent all day yesterday heating up
> > water on the fireplace and adding it to both tanks
> > only to lose them this morning.
> > There was nothing I could do to save my fish. Last
> > night, I told my folks that if they made it, I will
> > try to find a way to get them to a home which had
> > power but when I woke up this morning and checked
> > them, they were no longer breathing.
> > I will be draining both tanks when we get power back
> > to the house and get new tank members once the cold
> > weather is over maybe in Feb or the following month.
> > Both of my parents loved watching my fish swim and say
> > hello to them in the morning. Now it is a sad time in
> > my house because of the loss of my Angelfishes and my
> > two plecos due to the power outage and the cold
> > weather.
> > Just keep us in your prayers and hope that we get
> > power back as soon as possible.
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Beth
> >
> > http://fa.f-realm.com/ Fanfiction Axis. Look for two rings at the
> bottom of the home page Webring Promotion and Webfiction.
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bleachfanscenter/ for all Bleach
fans.
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sailorsenshiocs/ for all original
and
> series characters of Sailor Moon.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
> ______________
> > Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> > Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
> > http://games.yahoo.com/games/front
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20452 From: jett07002 Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Hi Everyone.

Everyone is talking abut all the medications and different potions
they're putting in their tanks to alleviate a problem. Believe me
people, you should NOT be putting all those chemicals in your tank
unless it is absolutely necessary. And believe me, the manufacturers
can use all the fancy names they want. What they are selling is
chemicals. I think any of you would start taking any pill or liquid
you could get your hands on at the first sign of an illness. If you
have your head on straight, you go to the doctor first and find out
what the illness is. Then you fight it with medicine (chemicals) if
you have to. Chances are, as with the common cold, you probably won't
need any medicine at all. Your body will fight it off if you have a
healthy immune system. Same way with your tank. These poor critters
are in an enclosed environment and we, as their caretakers, should be
making every attempt at duplicating where they would normally live to
the best of our ability. You sure aren't doing that by putting all
that crap into the tank when it is not needed.

Be careful and save your money. Be patient. Don't buy stuff you
don't need. All it does is kill the tank occupants and your out a
few bucks you could have used for something else. That's why most
beginners get discouraged and quit. They don't find a constant hassle
any fun. I don't blame them. But they don't realize they are causing
their hassle themselves.

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20453 From: FoRTy-TwO Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Tap water is a lot different from well water... Tap water is treated sewage... Therefore has chemicals in it to clean it that aren't healthy for any aquarium... Well water isn't treated nor is it sewage... It has the same minerals in it that lakes, streams and ponds have... The only mineral you need to worry about is copper and this isn't even for most marine or fresh aquariums... Copper can burn fish that do not have scales... Low levels of copper are ok for those fish but higher levels can burn them because all they have as skin protection is the slime coat... Most fish have scales... This isn't something you need to worry about unless you intend to raise puffers or fish like them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20454 From: NHSNOLA Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Also get a 12V power inverter to plug the UPS into to recharge it in your
car as needed. I did not have a car (flooded) and I only had one UPS during
my two weeks of no power after Hurricane Katrina but it helped save all of
my fish in my three tanks. I still had to do lots of manual work to save
the fish but the UPS definitely helped.

I now have a UPS on each one of my tanks which only run the tanks for about
30-60 minutes but this is all you need to keep the water aerated and the
filters cycled. I was basically running thing the filters for 5 minutes
every hour when the UPS was charged and then manually pouring water through
the HOB's and canisters, every hour, when I did not have any power... when
the UPS would run down. Of course, I did not have the cold to deal with but
I did have 90F+ heat. You should get some thermal wrap material to be able
to wrap the tanks to keep the water as warm as possible and then fill the
milk jugs with hot water and "float" them in the tank to keep the
temperature up. I used frozen two liters and gallon jugs in mine to combat
some of the heat.

The UPS also keeps the tanks running during occasional brown-outs and
protects things from surges.

Lenny Vasbinder
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20455 From: Bharath Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "guppielover" <gloriaashdown@...>
wrote:
>
> hi is there someone who can help me,i had 6 female guppies which
gave
> birth but died two days later,babies died one after the other,now my
> remaining femal is pregent,how can i stop them from dying,they are
in a
> 10 gallon planted tank,ph kept at 7.6,tempucher at 74,water changed
> every two weeks,help please reguards gloria
>
Hello Gloria.
U have 2 siphon and replace one sixth of the water daily.
Open my website www.geocities.com/bharath.tonse
Read Aquarium Fish Care page
Feel free 2 contact me if u have problems.

Regards ---- Bharath
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20456 From: Wendie Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
What is the name of the UPS you use?
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: NHSNOLA
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.


Also get a 12V power inverter to plug the UPS into to recharge it in your
car as needed. I did not have a car (flooded) and I only had one UPS during
my two weeks of no power after Hurricane Katrina but it helped save all of
my fish in my three tanks. I still had to do lots of manual work to save
the fish but the UPS definitely helped.

I now have a UPS on each one of my tanks which only run the tanks for about
30-60 minutes but this is all you need to keep the water aerated and the
filters cycled. I was basically running thing the filters for 5 minutes
every hour when the UPS was charged and then manually pouring water through
the HOB's and canisters, every hour, when I did not have any power... when
the UPS would run down. Of course, I did not have the cold to deal with but
I did have 90F+ heat. You should get some thermal wrap material to be able
to wrap the tanks to keep the water as warm as possible and then fill the
milk jugs with hot water and "float" them in the tank to keep the
temperature up. I used frozen two liters and gallon jugs in mine to combat
some of the heat.

The UPS also keeps the tanks running during occasional brown-outs and
protects things from surges.

Lenny Vasbinder




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20457 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
I am interested in getting a group of Frontosa's for my aquarium (125
Gallong) when it is set up and cycled and have noticed there are quite
a few different types out there. If I want the more blue colored
Frontosa, which kind would I look for? If anyone has any advice I
would appreciate it. I am waiting for my stand to get here and soon
will set this tank up! It is torture seeing it sit empty. Also does
anyone have a good source on Caves/Large Rocks that I could order
from? I am also interested in getting a Synodontis Decorus catfish. I
had one years ago and he was a really neat fish! Thanks in advance,

Joanna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20458 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
Fred.

Go to http://www.apc.com Take a look at the Back-UPS models they offer. It can be a bit tricky to determine which one to use. I have a document from them explaining the difference between watts and VA which may help you determine the right model for your tanks. Send me an e-mail off list and I'll send you the PDF file.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.

What is the name of the UPS you use?
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: NHSNOLA
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.


Also get a 12V power inverter to plug the UPS into to recharge it in your
car as needed. I did not have a car (flooded) and I only had one UPS during
my two weeks of no power after Hurricane Katrina but it helped save all of
my fish in my three tanks. I still had to do lots of manual work to save
the fish but the UPS definitely helped.

I now have a UPS on each one of my tanks which only run the tanks for about
30-60 minutes but this is all you need to keep the water aerated and the
filters cycled. I was basically running thing the filters for 5 minutes
every hour when the UPS was charged and then manually pouring water through
the HOB's and canisters, every hour, when I did not have any power... when
the UPS would run down. Of course, I did not have the cold to deal with but
I did have 90F+ heat. You should get some thermal wrap material to be able
to wrap the tanks to keep the water as warm as possible and then fill the
milk jugs with hot water and "float" them in the tank to keep the
temperature up. I used frozen two liters and gallon jugs in mine to combat
some of the heat.

The UPS also keeps the tanks running during occasional brown-outs and
protects things from surges.

Lenny Vasbinder




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20459 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by ice storm.
APC and TrippLite are tithe tops UPS manufacturers (http://www.apc.com and
http://www.tripplite.com)

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Wednesday, 17 January 2007 18:45
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused
by ice storm.



What is the name of the UPS you use?
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: NHSNOLA
To: aquaticlife@ <mailto:aquaticlife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:37 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I lost both tanks due to power outage caused by
ice storm.

Also get a 12V power inverter to plug the UPS into to recharge it in your
car as needed. I did not have a car (flooded) and I only had one UPS during
my two weeks of no power after Hurricane Katrina but it helped save all of
my fish in my three tanks. I still had to do lots of manual work to save
the fish but the UPS definitely helped.

I now have a UPS on each one of my tanks which only run the tanks for about
30-60 minutes but this is all you need to keep the water aerated and the
filters cycled. I was basically running thing the filters for 5 minutes
every hour when the UPS was charged and then manually pouring water through
the HOB's and canisters, every hour, when I did not have any power... when
the UPS would run down. Of course, I did not have the cold to deal with but
I did have 90F+ heat. You should get some thermal wrap material to be able
to wrap the tanks to keep the water as warm as possible and then fill the
milk jugs with hot water and "float" them in the tank to keep the
temperature up. I used frozen two liters and gallon jugs in mine to combat
some of the heat.

The UPS also keeps the tanks running during occasional brown-outs and
protects things from surges.

Lenny Vasbinder

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20460 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Well said, Joe.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jett07002
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!

Hi Everyone.

Everyone is talking abut all the medications and different potions
they're putting in their tanks to alleviate a problem. Believe me
people, you should NOT be putting all those chemicals in your tank
unless it is absolutely necessary. And believe me, the manufacturers
can use all the fancy names they want. What they are selling is
chemicals. I think any of you would start taking any pill or liquid
you could get your hands on at the first sign of an illness. If you
have your head on straight, you go to the doctor first and find out
what the illness is. Then you fight it with medicine (chemicals) if
you have to. Chances are, as with the common cold, you probably won't
need any medicine at all. Your body will fight it off if you have a
healthy immune system. Same way with your tank. These poor critters
are in an enclosed environment and we, as their caretakers, should be
making every attempt at duplicating where they would normally live to
the best of our ability. You sure aren't doing that by putting all
that crap into the tank when it is not needed.

Be careful and save your money. Be patient. Don't buy stuff you
don't need. All it does is kill the tank occupants and your out a
few bucks you could have used for something else. That's why most
beginners get discouraged and quit. They don't find a constant hassle
any fun. I don't blame them. But they don't realize they are causing
their hassle themselves.

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20461 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
So, when I was living in a town where the municipal water supply came
from wells, they were actually pumping sewerage from the ground? Sorry,
way too holier than thou attitude showing in your message. Well water
can be just as pristine or as vile s any municipal water supply.
Treatment done by the water companies and departments that supply much
of our population with water are done to remove bacteria that is
naturally in the water, and keep it relatively bacteria free through its
trip through the pipes to your home. The water may also be filtered to
remove suspended solids in the water. The pH is increased to help
protect the pipes from the natural corrosiveness of the water. It does
not matter if the water is from a stream, river, pond, reservoir, or
well. Water is tested often at the source, and if it does not meet
certain criteria, the supply is switched to another source. The water in
municipal systems is far from being sewerage.

On the other hand, if you are getting your water from a private well,
and something contaminates the water in that well, you are pretty much
stuck. Heavy usage of manure in a farmer's field can lead to leaching of
nitrogenous compounds into the aquifer upon which you draw. Enough of
this leaching and you have exceeded the EPA guidelines for nitrates in
your water supply. A leak in a gasoline station's underground storage
tank could lead to the addition of petroleum product(s) into the aquifer
and your well. Both have happened, and will probably happen again. The
copper you mention is as likely to appear in municipal systems as it is
to appear in private wells.

Now, don't take it wrong. I like well water at least as much as the next
person. I cannot wait to get home to drink the tap (well) water. It
tastes far better than anything I can get where I now live.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of FoRTy-TwO
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium

Tap water is a lot different from well water... Tap water is treated
sewage... Therefore has chemicals in it to clean it that aren't healthy
for any aquarium... Well water isn't treated nor is it sewage... It has
the same minerals in it that lakes, streams and ponds have... The only
mineral you need to worry about is copper and this isn't even for most
marine or fresh aquariums... Copper can burn fish that do not have
scales... Low levels of copper are ok for those fish but higher levels
can burn them because all they have as skin protection is the slime
coat... Most fish have scales... This isn't something you need to worry
about unless you intend to raise puffers or fish like them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20462 From: Aka Jacky Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: help with guppies
Hi There, My English not so well, but I believe if you have to put some "Water Glass" Those plant growth in water or at water. Those Baby Guppie like to hide at the rooth & that become their food. Hope you guys understand my poor English

Another Things, you have to replace the "Silence Water" which water from pipe, then leave it under sun for 3-4 days. Then that we call it "Silence Water". If u have natural water will be best

Cheers,
Jacky Ang


----- Original Message ----
From: Bharath <bharath.tonse@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, 17 January, 2007 9:52:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: help with guppies

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "guppielover" <gloriaashdown@ ...>
wrote:
>
> hi is there someone who can help me,i had 6 female guppies which
gave
> birth but died two days later,babies died one after the other,now my
> remaining femal is pregent,how can i stop them from dying,they are
in a
> 10 gallon planted tank,ph kept at 7.6,tempucher at 74,water changed
> every two weeks,help please reguards gloria
>
Hello Gloria.
U have 2 siphon and replace one sixth of the water daily.
Open my website www.geocities. com/bharath. tonse
Read Aquarium Fish Care page
Feel free 2 contact me if u have problems.

Regards ---- Bharath






___________________________________________________________
Copy addresses and emails from any email account to Yahoo! Mail - quick, easy and free. http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/trueswitch2.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20463 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
Joanna,
Yo might ask over at
_http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=frontosa&sp-a=sp1002682c&sp-p=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1_
(http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=frontosa&sp-a=sp1002682c&sp-p=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1)

Worth a shot.

Mike

In a message dated 1/17/2007 5:06:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cotton50girl@... writes:




I am interested in getting a group of Frontosa's for my aquarium (125
Gallong) when it is set up and cycled and have noticed there are quite
a few different types out there. If I want the more blue colored
Frontosa, which kind would I look for? If anyone has any advice I
would appreciate it. I am waiting for my stand to get here and soon
will set this tank up! It is torture seeing it sit empty. Also does
anyone have a good source on Caves/Large Rocks that I could order
from? I am also interested in getting a Synodontis Decorus catfish. I
had one years ago and he was a really neat fish! Thanks in advance,

Joanna








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20464 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/17/2007
Subject: Re: Well Water and my New Aquarium
Sewage?

Much of the water in my area comes from Hetch Hetchy reservoir, located in
the next great valley over from Yosemite, hardly what I or anyone would call a
sewage treatment plant!

Much of the other water in my area comes from the California river Delta,
Shasta Dam, Sacramento river etc. Also not a sewage treatment plant.

Mike

In a message dated 1/17/2007 3:56:44 PM Pacific Standard Time,
wassergottin@... writes:

Tap water is treated sewage... Therefore has chemicals in it to clean it
that aren't healthy for any aquarium...





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20465 From: untamedgame Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Jack Dempseys
Anybody interested in jack dempsey babies? They're currently in a 46 Gallon Upright. Once
I feed these last 30 convicts to my jaguars, they'll graduate to the 90 Gallon grow-out
tank. I could use some space if any agressive fish hobbyists would like new critters. I'm in
Santa Rosa, CA. This is for pickup only. Thanks for your consideration. Peace.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20466 From: jjudy1957 Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Joe

Everything.......very well said. I have been raising/breeding fish
for only a couple of years now and I can honestly say that the only
additive I have used is epsom salt. Touche!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20467 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frontosa Cichlids/Caves/Rocks
Thank you Mike, what a great source! I'm glad they recommend Clown
loaches for tankmates with Fronts as I love a group of Loaches in the
tank. They are very entertaining and fun to watch swim in a herd!

Joanna

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Joanna,
> Yo might ask over at
> _http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=frontosa&sp-a=sp1002682c&sp-
p=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1_
> (http://search.atomz.com/search/?sp-q=frontosa&sp-a=sp1002682c&sp-
p=all&sp-f=ISO-8859-1)
>
> Worth a shot.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 1/17/2007 5:06:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> cotton50girl@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I am interested in getting a group of Frontosa's for my aquarium
(125
> Gallong) when it is set up and cycled and have noticed there are
quite
> a few different types out there. If I want the more blue colored
> Frontosa, which kind would I look for? If anyone has any advice I
> would appreciate it. I am waiting for my stand to get here and
soon
> will set this tank up! It is torture seeing it sit empty. Also
does
> anyone have a good source on Caves/Large Rocks that I could order
> from? I am also interested in getting a Synodontis Decorus catfish.
I
> had one years ago and he was a really neat fish! Thanks in advance,
>
> Joanna
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20468 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
We use amquel on our water. That's about it. Tried buying spring
water and distilled water, but testing the purchased water proved it
was no better than our tap, so amquel it is. That, aquarium salt, and
epsom salts pretty much keep our fish healthy.

> Joe
>
> Everything.......very well said. I have been raising/breeding fish
> for only a couple of years now and I can honestly say that the only
> additive I have used is epsom salt. Touche!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20469 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
What is amquel? I have a whole little box of stuff I've been told to use from Cure All to salt to anti-algae to snail killers........It's just confusing!

---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20470 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Amquel is a water conditioner which removes chlorine and chloramines
from my tap water to make it safe for the aquariums.

I never use any of the anti algae stuff, as algae is harmless and can
easily be scrubbed off the side of the tank, if you don't like it,
with a used sponge filter. NOt only that, but it would kill all my
beautiful plants in the aquarium.

I never use snail killers as my fish ADORE squished snail treat on
the side of the tank, and snail killer will also kill my dwarf
aquatic frogs and cory catfish, and cherry shrimp, which I love.

There is no universal cure for everything. The best bet is to get a
really good webpage resource, preferably with pictures, of fish
diseases. Then if your fish seems ill, identify the disease, and
medicate it properly, or at least as properly as you can. PREVENT
the problems before they start by maintaining clean tanks

> What is amquel? I have a whole little box of stuff I've been told
to use from Cure All to salt to anti-algae to snail
killers........It's just confusing!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20471 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/18/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Thank you oh so much for this info......it's great info.....

---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20472 From: Julie Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Pumps
I am looking to buy a pump for my sump...I was told PumpMaster was the
best and with a 55 with a distance of about 4 feet how much should my
gph be??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20473 From: Ash Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
indeed.
I dont even use salt or dechlorinator. if frequent and minor water changes are made, neither are needed.
people often forget that the best antifungal/antiparasite/antianything is the fish's own immune system, which can be kept healthy if the water is clear and clean.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20474 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pumps
The answer you seek should be part of the description of the pump in the
listings you might find. I did a Google on PumpMaster, and did search
some mail order sites, but came up with nothing I could go on (though
the mud pump looked pretty interesting). The number you are looking for
is known as head, and it can vary with the power of the pump, the size
of the return path, and even the number of bends in the return path. A
given pump generally has only one size for the piping or tubing used to
return the water--this would be the inside diameter--and the listing you
would see would be for the height and length of the tubing. For
instance, a 5 foot length rising 1 foot, would have a higher rating than
a 5 foot length rising 4 feet.

Of course, these numbers will assume perfect conditions, which may not
be the case for very long in an applied setting. If you have a filter on
the pump, as the filter becomes clog, the head numbers will be less, as
the tubing and pipe becomes dirty, the numbers will decrease, etc.

The math and physics behind all this are quite interesting if you have
the bent to follow up on them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Saturday, January 20, 2007 11:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pumps

I am looking to buy a pump for my sump...I was told PumpMaster was the
best and with a 55 with a distance of about 4 feet how much should my
gph be??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20475 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Joe-
I have stopped putting treatments in my tank all together. I have yet
to save a fish. I think by the time they get sick enough that you
need to medicate, there is no saving them. (just my experience)
Also, if I do medicate (which as I said I don't anymore) I use a 5
gallon bucket next to the tank with a sponge filter and heater. I
start it with tank water so there is no shock, then everysay switch
out some of the water with clean water. As I said though-that doesn't
work too well as they always die.

Question-
I JUST bought a 3 stage tap water unit. I live in NYC, so I'm sure
there's a lot of junk in my water-it's clean, but by junk I mean
chemicals. it's a 5 micron carbon filter/1 micron carbon filter/DI
chamber. So it's just for DI, not ROm like the aquarium
pharmacuticals tap water conditioner on steroids.
My question is this. I reconsitute the water with RO RIGHT, then I
use seachem Neutral Regulator to get the PH right. that's all I put
in. Is that good, or is there a better thing I should do. i've been
having tank problems for months, and i figured Id start out by using
better water and changing every 2 weeks instead of every 3.
(PS- 55 gal Freshwater planted tank with Carbo-block CO2 system,
driftwood, eheim classic small (running mostly chemical filtration) &
an eheim 2800 running ALL biological)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone.
>
> Everyone is talking abut all the medications and different potions
> they're putting in their tanks to alleviate a problem. Believe me
> people, you should NOT be putting all those chemicals in your tank
> unless it is absolutely necessary. And believe me, the manufacturers
> can use all the fancy names they want. What they are selling is
> chemicals. I think any of you would start taking any pill or liquid
> you could get your hands on at the first sign of an illness. If you
> have your head on straight, you go to the doctor first and find out
> what the illness is. Then you fight it with medicine (chemicals) if
> you have to. Chances are, as with the common cold, you probably won't
> need any medicine at all. Your body will fight it off if you have a
> healthy immune system. Same way with your tank. These poor critters
> are in an enclosed environment and we, as their caretakers, should be
> making every attempt at duplicating where they would normally live to
> the best of our ability. You sure aren't doing that by putting all
> that crap into the tank when it is not needed.
>
> Be careful and save your money. Be patient. Don't buy stuff you
> don't need. All it does is kill the tank occupants and your out a
> few bucks you could have used for something else. That's why most
> beginners get discouraged and quit. They don't find a constant hassle
> any fun. I don't blame them. But they don't realize they are causing
> their hassle themselves.
>
> joe t
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20476 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Snail killer and Algae Killer- Consider throwing them away!

Think about it this way- U're putting something in the tank that is
MEANT to KILL. in the right doses, bug spray won't kill us, but do u
want to breathe it in? Would you put it in batch tub and take a bath
with it. IMHO-they're just bad news.

Also- If snails are every a problem, a bolivian ram (for community
tank) is a GREAT way to get rid of them- And you'll end up falling in
love with the species.
Loaches also work for snails-but remember when using any of the other
things in that box of yours-loaches are scaless fish.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> What is amquel? I have a whole little box of stuff I've been told
to use from Cure All to salt to anti-algae to snail
killers........It's just confusing!
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for earth-friendly autos?
> Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20477 From: Kevin Date: 1/20/2007
Subject: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Hello all,
So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.

check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish

I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!

kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20478 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Hello,

I have some nice pieces of coral and was wondering if it is okay to put
them in my freshwater tank that will have cichlids in it. Thank you in
advance.

Joanna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Looking at the most recent water quality reports (2005) available on the web site, and the water in NYC looks to be very good. The water is slightly alkaline, on average, coming into the system, but has low alkalinity, which means that playing with the pH could lead to a pH crash pretty quickly.

NYC water has the reputation as being the best, or near the best, water of any municipal system. This is often borne out in various surveys of drinking water, and the test reports I looked at certainly bear this out. They are much better than some I've seen.

You can get this report by going to http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/pdf/wsstat05.pdf. If you want to check out the whole site, start at: http://www.nyc.gov/html/dep/html/watersup.html. You will need to check with the water people for more recent results. I do not know their schedule for publishing the prior year results.

Any problem you have with the water may be from within the building itself. If you test the water, and you are not getting results similar to those provided by the water company, start by looking at your plumbing system first. If you are living in an apartment, it may be somewhat difficult to get anything done, but if you are in your own home, then it would be your decision where to go if there is a problem within it.

Now, if you are interested with making your own water, to your specifications, you should be going the RO route or using distilled water, and add the components needed to bring the water to your specifications.

You should be changing water every week at a minimum, at least 10% at a crack, though more may be warranted.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 12:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!

Joe-
I have stopped putting treatments in my tank all together. I have yet
to save a fish. I think by the time they get sick enough that you
need to medicate, there is no saving them. (just my experience)
Also, if I do medicate (which as I said I don't anymore) I use a 5
gallon bucket next to the tank with a sponge filter and heater. I
start it with tank water so there is no shock, then everysay switch
out some of the water with clean water. As I said though-that doesn't
work too well as they always die.

Question-
I JUST bought a 3 stage tap water unit. I live in NYC, so I'm sure
there's a lot of junk in my water-it's clean, but by junk I mean
chemicals. it's a 5 micron carbon filter/1 micron carbon filter/DI
chamber. So it's just for DI, not ROm like the aquarium
pharmacuticals tap water conditioner on steroids.
My question is this. I reconsitute the water with RO RIGHT, then I
use seachem Neutral Regulator to get the PH right. that's all I put
in. Is that good, or is there a better thing I should do. i've been
having tank problems for months, and i figured Id start out by using
better water and changing every 2 weeks instead of every 3.
(PS- 55 gal Freshwater planted tank with Carbo-block CO2 system,
driftwood, eheim classic small (running mostly chemical filtration) &
an eheim 2800 running ALL biological)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone.
>
> Everyone is talking abut all the medications and different potions
> they're putting in their tanks to alleviate a problem. Believe me
> people, you should NOT be putting all those chemicals in your tank
> unless it is absolutely necessary. And believe me, the manufacturers
> can use all the fancy names they want. What they are selling is
> chemicals. I think any of you would start taking any pill or liquid
> you could get your hands on at the first sign of an illness. If you
> have your head on straight, you go to the doctor first and find out
> what the illness is. Then you fight it with medicine (chemicals) if
> you have to. Chances are, as with the common cold, you probably won't
> need any medicine at all. Your body will fight it off if you have a
> healthy immune system. Same way with your tank. These poor critters
> are in an enclosed environment and we, as their caretakers, should be
> making every attempt at duplicating where they would normally live to
> the best of our ability. You sure aren't doing that by putting all
> that crap into the tank when it is not needed.
>
> Be careful and save your money. Be patient. Don't buy stuff you
> don't need. All it does is kill the tank occupants and your out a
> few bucks you could have used for something else. That's why most
> beginners get discouraged and quit. They don't find a constant hassle
> any fun. I don't blame them. But they don't realize they are causing
> their hassle themselves.
>
> joe t
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20480 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
IT will tend to raise the ph of your tank, good if your water has low
ph, bad if your water is already hard and alkaline
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20481 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
The effect that coral will have on your water is to gradually raise the
hardness and pH If you need a higher pH, this will be OK, but if you are
planning on South American cichlids, you may not want the pH higher, and
you may want softer water for them.

The other thing to watch out for is that coral often has sharp, jagged
edges that can cause injury to those fish who may brush up against it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Joanna Tomacari
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 7:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?

Hello,

I have some nice pieces of coral and was wondering if it is okay to put
them in my freshwater tank that will have cichlids in it. Thank you in
advance.

Joanna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20482 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
They can also get some scratches from the coral as well.

In a message dated 1/21/2007 7:27:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
brennewoman@... writes:
IT will tend to raise the ph of your tank, good if your water has low
ph, bad if your water is already hard and alkaline


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20483 From: gail hopkins Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Pumps
Hi Julie, Yea pumpmaster is the best pump for your situation. I have pondmaster pumps on my site http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com . Take a look at the article ABC's of pump selection for more details on selecting the right size. You need to consider the volume of the pond, length to waterfall and the height of the falls. You can also email me directly at richdeer3@... and I'll be happy to help you decide. I also give a 10% discount to forum members that order by email.

Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20484 From: Betty Lou Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
Well, I had talked about dumping the tank and starting fresh after
the lifeguard episode a couple weeks ago. Be careful what you are
thinking.

Yesterday my son decided that the tank needed to be cleaned
apparently, as he dumped scouring powder over my new guppie gals in
their breeding net. Friday night I found some baby fish and not
knowing which of the recently puchased (last Saturday) girls they
belonged to, I put them both into the contraption for observation.

I spent the afternoon filling and scrubbing and draining and filling
and scrubbing and draining and filling some more while hubby went out
to get carbon, filters and a new bio wheel. I got all of the fish
out as quickly filling vases and even a (don't laugh) glass bread pan
as I could but the 2 girls in the observation box took the direct hit
and the top of the box was covered in powder floating on the water
have since succomb to the burns. The new platies are seemingly
unharmed (3 ladies and 1 gentleman), and Mr Catfish also seems not to
have any evidence of burns.

Now I am in the first stages of cycling a "new" tank as anything that
had any amount of bacteria, good bad or other was contaminated. When
I brought home the new residents a week ago yesterday, I also got
a "master test" kit, which includes a test for Nitrite, PH, Nitrate,
and Amonia. I also got one of those amonia alerts that hang inside
your tank. I used as much Reverse Osmosis water as I could, but we
only have about 5 gallons in holding, and it was ice cold, so I had
to compensate with hot softened water to get the conditions
acceptable as soon as possible since I didn't have filters on the
vases or bread pan! I filtered the water for 2 hours with only
plants before adding the fish. All new gravel substrate, and diamond
blend carbon with amonia neutralizer in two corners. I also have a
glass jar with several tablespoons of salt sitting in it to assist
them with any damage which may not be evident.

Things are settling down a little here now that the ladies have
finally passed (I had to give them a chance). My son points to the
tank and repeats no no, so maybe he has learned a lesson from this -
I know I was reminded that he is old enough for mischief and young
enough to not be trusted.

Betty Lou Kline
http://www.yourquietretreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20485 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?
Coral would raise the pH so unless its african cichlids i would say no.

----- Original Message ----
From: Joanna Tomacari <cotton50girl@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 7:57:55 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Coral in Freshwater Aquarium?













Hello,



I have some nice pieces of coral and was wondering if it is okay to put

them in my freshwater tank that will have cichlids in it. Thank you in

advance.



Joanna














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Research Channel
I ran across this interesting web site the other day, and just got a
chance to wander through it a bit. They appear to have a good selection
of lectures available on demand, mostly college level, as well as
offering new ones on a regular basis. There are several ways to receive
the lectures--you may have a cable channel in your area that they appear
on, they are carried by the Dish satellite system (channel 9400 in the
"Basic Package", a simultaneous webcast of the lectures (24 hours a
day), and on demand from their collection (now exceeding 2700 lectures).
You can start at http://www.researchchannel.org

It looks like there are many lectures that you can use to pursue your
interests (overall, not just fishy ones). Looking in the Sciences
section, I did find a few lectures I'll be taking a look at in the near
future including: America's Crayfish
Discover the socioeconomic impact of America's diverse crayfish
population.
America's NonGame Fish
Examine the vital role of nongame fish to our ecology, and the threats
they face daily.
Invasive Species in the Pacific Northwest, Part 1
Invasive plants, animals and insects and the spread of damaging diseases
in the woodland areas of the Pacific Northwest.
Invasive Species in the Pacific Northwest, Part 2
Invasive plants, animals and insects.
Is Science Fiction Science? (301)
Michael Crichton, Octavia Butler, and David Brin delve into what defines
science fiction with CTT host Robert Kuhn.


\\Steve//
It takes 43 muscles to frown and 17 to smile, but it doesn't
take any to just sit there with a dumb look on your face.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20487 From: snerticus Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that the
SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an imitator.
My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear fins.
That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the future.
They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.

My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
comsume some. So maybe you are right....

But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best algae
eater.

Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat much of
it at all.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
> eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
>
> check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
>
> I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
>
> kevin
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20488 From: imawaterholic Date: 1/21/2007
Subject: goose problem - help!
I have an over abundance with seagulls
I bought a product from this website (below) but I am uncertain if it
would be effective with gulls. The mfg isnt sure either
http://www.lakeweeds.eventwebsitebuilder.com/Geese.html

Any ideas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20489 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Crossocheilus latius (was ~ Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae e
It is my understanding that different kinds of fish eat different
kinds of Algae. More importantly is that each type of Algae is an
indicator of a particular parameter being "out of balance".

Last year my tank was very well "balanced" to the point that there was
no algae of any kind for seven or eight months and slowly all the
various Algae eating fish were dying off.

I made the mistake of trying to "save" the few remaining fish by
eliminating the majority of the hornwort in hopes that it would cause
algae to grow so the fish would have something to eat. Oops!

The tank "went into shock" and I was left with a huge mess. More kinds
of Algae in more places than I had ever seen. Frequent moderate water
changes made no difference. I added liquid products that were supposed
to get rid of the algae and they did not work. I have 4 - 65 watt
Compacts on a 55 gallon tank. No CO2. Suddenly sparsely planted. I
turned off 1/2 the lights for several weeks and added an internal 18
watt UV Sterilizer. No noticeable progress.

I got 4 Crossocheilus latius or "Indian Algae Eaters" and they cleaned
the entire tank within a week. I was amazed at how quick they did it
all and how fast they grew over the next few weeks. They are still
very active and entertaining as well.

As far as what the best Algae Eater is, these have my vote, however
there are others that I still like. The Gold oto or Golden Algae
Eater, which is larger in size than the regular oto, is a great
addition. For a large tank, 80 - 100+ gallons, I like a school of True
SAE's - simply because anything smaller seems too crowded for such
large fish and keeping just one seems lonely. For any size aquarium, but
particularly the smaller tanks, the oto's are great workers - they
seem to like each others company - so its easier to have a group of
them because they are smaller than all the others.

I do not care for plecos any more, not even the clown (dwarf) that I
may still have in there, for no other reason than I never see them.

I've never observed the False SAE actually working on any algae, he
just seems preoccupied with defending his territory.

And the Chinese Algae Eaters are out of the question. Those CAE's have
a nasty reputation for a reason.


What other kinds are there?


------------------------------------------------------

from Message #17605

"... at the Albany Aquarium.

The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me. He
reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found out
about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
than
any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
They
are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
the
Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
Algae
Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
Sharks".

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that the
> SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an imitator.
> My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear fins.
> That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the future.
> They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
>
> My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> comsume some. So maybe you are right....
>
> But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best algae
> eater.
>
> Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat much of
> it at all.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
> > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> >
> > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> >
> > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> >
> > kevin
> >
>


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that the
> SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an imitator.
> My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear fins.
> That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the future.
> They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
>
> My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> comsume some. So maybe you are right....
>
> But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best algae
> eater.
>
> Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat much of
> it at all.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
> > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> >
> > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> >
> > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> >
> > kevin
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20490 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Crossocheilus latius
These are the most active Algae Eaters I have ever had. I have 4 of
them that look similar in color and pattern to the "False SAE" that I
also have in here with a True SAE. These 4 are shorter and wider than
the other two.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gracefullnature"
<gracefullnature@...> wrote:
>
> Has anybody seen or kept these?
>
> I saw them for the first time on Tuesday at the Albany Aquarium.
>
> The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me. He
> reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
> was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found out
> about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
> than
> any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
> These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
> Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
> They
> are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
> the
> Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
> Algae
> Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
> these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
> Sharks".
>
> I will be getting several of them on Friday and was just curious if
> anybody knows anything about them.
>
> Thank you
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20491 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: goose problem - help!
No idea. Looks like it could work, at least for a while. I know on
the air force bases we've lived on all bird deterrents have to be
swapped out on a regular basis, as the birds get used to the routine.
I remember one time driving past the runway and seeing the bird cannon
covered with birds. It fired. The birds fluttered about a foot into
the air, and the settled back down on the cannon. Two days later they
had gone back to a local hawker. When the birds started getting smart
about avoiding the hawk, they went to something else.

For the water deterrents, they just used a fine mesh across the top of
the water so the birds couldn't reach the water. That had its'
problems, too, though. They had to have someone on hand to rescue
endangered species from the mesh.


> I have an over abundance with seagulls
> I bought a product from this website (below) but I am uncertain if it
> would be effective with gulls. The mfg isnt sure either
> http://www.lakeweeds.eventwebsitebuilder.com/Geese.html
>
> Any ideas?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20492 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
*holds hand over mouth to prevent unseemly snickering* I am so sorry.
3 years old seems to be a prime age for aquarium disasters, My MIL
showed me a picture of my hubby at the age of three, sitting in their
50 gallon tank surrounded by floating fish. The babysitter went to
sleep and Steve got lonesome without his mom and decided to 'hug the
fishies'

I do feel sorry for the poor fish, though. Even the ones that will
survive the episode. I always keep a couple of cleaned out kitty
litter buckets on hand for just such emergencies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20493 From: tom Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: fish disease
I put in a 38 gallon fish tank not quite a month old yet. I have been
out of the hobby for about 15 years. I had serpas, lemons, black &
cardinal tetras plus two dalmation mollies. All the tetras got a
disease and died. I thought it was ich, they had white spots and the
fins were getting ragged. The mollies are fine. I put in rid ich and I
had no luck with it. I didn't put in a full medication treatment . I
see the mollies trying to scratch themselves once in a while though but
thats it. I since than cleaned out the tank changed almost 50% of the
water put fish tank salt back in got rid of the dead plants. The rid
ich killed those but not the disease. Any suggestions on what kind of
disease it might of been? And when it is a good time to repopulate the
tank? Thanks Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20494 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: fish disease
Hi there tom, they could have one of the following diseases white spot velvet slime higher form of parasite i would suggest you repopulate a few days after you have treated the fish and the tank thanks gloria


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: blokmot@...: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 15:10:41 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] fish disease




I put in a 38 gallon fish tank not quite a month old yet. I have been out of the hobby for about 15 years. I had serpas, lemons, black & cardinal tetras plus two dalmation mollies. All the tetras got a disease and died. I thought it was ich, they had white spots and the fins were getting ragged. The mollies are fine. I put in rid ich and I had no luck with it. I didn't put in a full medication treatment . I see the mollies trying to scratch themselves once in a while though but thats it. I since than cleaned out the tank changed almost 50% of the water put fish tank salt back in got rid of the dead plants. The rid ich killed those but not the disease. Any suggestions on what kind of disease it might of been? And when it is a good time to repopulate the tank? Thanks Tom


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20495 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).

The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only get
them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.

Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check outt
hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.

Kevin



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that the
> SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an imitator.
> My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear fins.
> That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the future.
> They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
>
> My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> comsume some. So maybe you are right....
>
> But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best algae
> eater.
>
> Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat much of
> it at all.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
> > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> >
> > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> >
> > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> >
> > kevin
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20496 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Comet + 3 yr old son + aquarium = disaster!
I was confused the first time I saw the title as I assumed by Comet
you meant the kind of goldfish.

My brother had an episode at a friends house at about that age. They
had a goldfish in a large fish bowl. For reasons beyond everyones
comprehension, he discovered sushi in the "raw food" & "live food"
sense of the term that has only recently become trendy.

Its a good thing your MIL wasn't a Piranha enthusiast as the outcome
may have been entirely different.

Thanks for sharing, laughter is contagious.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> *holds hand over mouth to prevent unseemly snickering* I am so sorry.
> 3 years old seems to be a prime age for aquarium disasters, My MIL
> showed me a picture of my hubby at the age of three, sitting in their
> 50 gallon tank surrounded by floating fish. The babysitter went to
> sleep and Steve got lonesome without his mom and decided to 'hug the
> fishies'
>
> I do feel sorry for the poor fish, though. Even the ones that will
> survive the episode. I always keep a couple of cleaned out kitty
> litter buckets on hand for just such emergencies.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20497 From: Aaron Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Algae Eating Cyprinids
http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/

http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/cyprinid.html

http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/saephotos.html


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
>
> The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only get
> them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
>
> Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check outt
> hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> >
> > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that the
> > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an imitator.
> > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear fins.
> > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the future.
> > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> >
> > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> >
> > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best algae
> > eater.
> >
> > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat much of
> > it at all.
> >
> > Snert
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all,
> > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese algae
> > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > >
> > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > >
> > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > >
> > > kevin
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20498 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: white stuff growing on aquariums
I have some white crusty stuff spreading accross my aquarium hoods. when I go to whipe the stuff off it crumbls into a powder. what is it?
Kimberly


Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20499 From: joe t Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!
Thanks, Steve Szabo, for your answer to Kevin about the NY water. I don't come on line that often, so sometimes I may leave a subject hanging a little. You are right, Steve. I live in New Jersey where the water isn't too bad, but I don't think it even comes close to NY water. Let's put it this way; when my wife and I are at a restaurant, if we're in NY I will drink the water. If we're in NJ we'll order Pellegrino. LOL.

NJ water isn't bad - (according to the water analysis the city sends to it's residents) - but I just don't like the way it tastes. Enough said.

I might just throw in on the advice Steve gave to Kevin saying, if you're in one of those old houses that still have lead pipes, I am sure your fish aren't too happy about that. But I don't think it's bad enough to kill them the way you're describing.

Let me take just a second to advise everyone that I am not an ichthyologist or a marine biologist or anything like that. A scientific mind I do not have. So I am not trying to show everybody how much I know. As a matter of fact, I'm keeping fish for about 50 years or better, and don't know half of what I THINK I know. But I love my fish, and I have never had so many problems as what I've been reading in this group. I never threw all that commercial stuff in my tanks. That's why I authored "All these medications and potions. Oh, MY!!!" Just tried to deliver a simple message.

Now I am not saying that I never used any of those things. I'm saying to know what you're trying to accomplish before you start putting all kinds of stuff in the water.

When it comes to new pumps and RO units, etc. I think I will ask Steve. I am not up on that stuff at all.

A suggestion for Kevin. If you are having so much of a problem trying to adjust your water you're probably "breaking the water's back" is an old term we used to use. By that we meant it is being altered so much it probably can't hold a steady pH. I wrote in reply to someone's question about a month ago, that if you are causing a pH bounce------meaning the pH is fluctuating rapidly----------it is sooner or later (and probably sooner) going to kill your fish. Even a "strong" fish can't take a constant hammering like that.

I would tell, especially beginners, don't try to keep fish that require a totally different kind of water than you have in your area. Learn with fish that can thrive in your area's water. Enjoy them. Get a feel for what you're doing. After awhile you can start branching out to the others.

joe t.


---------------------------------
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20500 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Crossocheilus latius (was ~ Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae e
I remember that post, but I did not mention the Indian Algae eater
because I assume it's almost impossible to come by. And since I've
never heard nor seen the Golden Oto, I ussume it is just as hard to
come by. I only mentioned the SAE's because they were presented to
me to be the best of the regularly available algae eating fish. I
have a Clown Pleco and an Oto in another small tank, and they both
eat about as much algae as my SAE. Don't get me wrong, I know they
eat SOME algae, but I probably spoil them with their pellets and they
just don't have a taste for it until I don't feed them for a while.
I do see all of them grazing, but it doesn't seem like they ingest
much at all. Until my most recent major water change this last week,
the hair algae was out of control in both tanks. I let it overgrow
to see what would happen. Well, I couldn't see anything anymore! so
I got fed up and removed all of it. Now I have crystal clear tanks
again, but no thanks to all those "algae eaters" I have! Spoiled
little varmints.

If you know of places that regularly carry the IAE and the Golden
Oto, let me know.

I kind of thought the Flying Fox was not good at eating algae, and
the SAE was the one everyone raved about, but I also get confused
sometimes with certain groups of fish (like this one obviously!)8o)

Snert

PS. I love my Clown Pleco - he has such an ornery personality. He
hates other fish or inverts anywhere near him and swooshes his tail
in their faces when they get too close to him. Sometimes he comes
out so fast and charges them, only to swish his tail in front of
their face to push them away. Very comical! For some reason, he
doesn't seem threated by my Oto though...


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> It is my understanding that different kinds of fish eat different
> kinds of Algae. More importantly is that each type of Algae is an
> indicator of a particular parameter being "out of balance".
>
> Last year my tank was very well "balanced" to the point that there
was
> no algae of any kind for seven or eight months and slowly all the
> various Algae eating fish were dying off.
>
> I made the mistake of trying to "save" the few remaining fish by
> eliminating the majority of the hornwort in hopes that it would
cause
> algae to grow so the fish would have something to eat. Oops!
>
> The tank "went into shock" and I was left with a huge mess. More
kinds
> of Algae in more places than I had ever seen. Frequent moderate
water
> changes made no difference. I added liquid products that were
supposed
> to get rid of the algae and they did not work. I have 4 - 65 watt
> Compacts on a 55 gallon tank. No CO2. Suddenly sparsely planted. I
> turned off 1/2 the lights for several weeks and added an internal 18
> watt UV Sterilizer. No noticeable progress.
>
> I got 4 Crossocheilus latius or "Indian Algae Eaters" and they
cleaned
> the entire tank within a week. I was amazed at how quick they did it
> all and how fast they grew over the next few weeks. They are still
> very active and entertaining as well.
>
> As far as what the best Algae Eater is, these have my vote, however
> there are others that I still like. The Gold oto or Golden Algae
> Eater, which is larger in size than the regular oto, is a great
> addition. For a large tank, 80 - 100+ gallons, I like a school of
True
> SAE's - simply because anything smaller seems too crowded for such
> large fish and keeping just one seems lonely. For any size
aquarium, but
> particularly the smaller tanks, the oto's are great workers - they
> seem to like each others company - so its easier to have a group of
> them because they are smaller than all the others.
>
> I do not care for plecos any more, not even the clown (dwarf) that I
> may still have in there, for no other reason than I never see them.
>
> I've never observed the False SAE actually working on any algae, he
> just seems preoccupied with defending his territory.
>
> And the Chinese Algae Eaters are out of the question. Those CAE's
have
> a nasty reputation for a reason.
>
>
> What other kinds are there?
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------
>
> from Message #17605
>
> "... at the Albany Aquarium.
>
> The Owner, Guy Oei, was there at closing and showed these too me. He
> reached into the Large Open Topped Plant Tank and the fish
> was "cleaning" his hand within seconds. Guy said he first found out
> about them on a recent trip to Europe. They are said to be Better
> than
> any other Algae Eaters, even the True SAE's which he also imports.
> These Little fish have a Big appetite and seem to prefer the Black
> Algae that grows on the Plants rather than anything on the Glass.
> They
> are very active Day & Night and constantly working even more than
> the
> Oto's. They have a similar body structure to that of the Chinese
> Algae
> Eater, but may not get as large. There is NO known Common Name for
> these Crossocheilus latius. He refers to them as "Algae Eating
> Sharks".
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20501 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Algae Eating Cyprinids
Thanks Aaron, I wondered why my guy doesn't eat much algae! He's a
False Siamensis! He has that almost irridescent light stripe over
the dark one... Man, I gotta have a talk with those LFS people!

Snert



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
>
>
> http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/
>
> http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/cyprinid.html
>
> http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/saephotos.html
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20502 From: the_penguin01748 Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
Hello All,

About 2 months ago I had the heater on a 30 gallon fresh water tank
fail in the on position and cook 90% of the tank. This was a planted,
low light tank with no CO2 or other special bells and whistles.

I lost most of the fish and plants in the hours and days that followed
the melt down.

I then extensively cleaned out the dead plants, did many gravel
vacuumings, and replaced the HOB filter (I hated the old one and this
was a reasonable time since much beneficial bacteria seemed dead.

To replace the filter I ran the new one along side the old one for a
week to salvage any good bacteria I could.

About a month ago I started to restock what seemed like a stable happy
(and mostly empty) tank. I now have a problem with recurring
cloudiness after I feed the tank. This is the exact same food I am
feeding another tank without issue.

Does anyone have any ides or suggestions on what is happening to me,
and how I might correct it? The current stock level is maybe 1/4 inch
of fish per gallon.

I would appreciate any thoughts or help you can offer.

Dave Roberts
Hopkinton, MA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20503 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Kevin, if that picture you posted is correct, then you have what I
have - instead of the standard SAE, you have a False Siamensis, which
is also probably why they don't eat much algae for you either. It
seems to be quite easy to misidentify similar fish! (Maybe this club
should start compiling a guide to identifying aquarium fish - okay,
maybe not. That would be a HUGE undertaking!)

From the links Aaron gave us, the False SAE has a lighter stripe
above
the dark one (as does the Flying Fox) which the True Siamensis lacks;
and it looks to me your "standard" SAE is a False SAE. I wonder what
a real SAE would do to the algae in your tank, especially if the
Flying Fox did such a good job? Maybe you should look around for the
True Siamensis, so you can have all three, and see how each stacks up
to each other when it comes to eating algae! I think that would be
awesome. I'd do it, but I only have two 5 gallon tanks (and a 1.5
gallon) that I don't dare put anymore fish in.

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
>
> The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
get
> them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
>
> Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
outt
> hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> >
> > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that
the
> > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an
imitator.
> > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear
fins.
> > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the
future.
> > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> >
> > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> >
> > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best
algae
> > eater.
> >
> > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat
much of
> > it at all.
> >
> > Snert
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all,
> > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese
algae
> > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > >
> > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > >
> > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > >
> > > kevin
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20504 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
That's the mineral residue from your water as it evaporates...

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sacred Wind Arabians
Sent: Monday, 22 January 2007 17:16
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] white stuff growing on aquariums



I have some white crusty stuff spreading accross my aquarium hoods. when I
go to whipe the stuff off it crumbls into a powder. what is it?
Kimberly

Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breedero <http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps>
o.com/members/MyDreamsheps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20505 From: idamanman Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
I would do a water change maybe 5 or 10 gallons... and without a
doubt ... spend the extra $$ on a good heater!! I have a Whisper 150
watt that works or doesnt so my take 30 gal. is either 68 degrees or
98 degrees...forget anything in between. Maybe use a different filter
system?
Fred




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "the_penguin01748"
<penguinsltd@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
>
> About 2 months ago I had the heater on a 30 gallon fresh water tank
> fail in the on position and cook 90% of the tank. This was a
planted,
> low light tank with no CO2 or other special bells and whistles.
>
> I lost most of the fish and plants in the hours and days that
followed
> the melt down.
>
> I then extensively cleaned out the dead plants, did many gravel
> vacuumings, and replaced the HOB filter (I hated the old one and
this
> was a reasonable time since much beneficial bacteria seemed dead.
>
> To replace the filter I ran the new one along side the old one for a
> week to salvage any good bacteria I could.
>
> About a month ago I started to restock what seemed like a stable
happy
> (and mostly empty) tank. I now have a problem with recurring
> cloudiness after I feed the tank. This is the exact same food I am
> feeding another tank without issue.
>
> Does anyone have any ides or suggestions on what is happening to me,
> and how I might correct it? The current stock level is maybe 1/4
inch
> of fish per gallon.
>
> I would appreciate any thoughts or help you can offer.
>
> Dave Roberts
> Hopkinton, MA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20506 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank
How long does the cloudiness of the water last? How old is the food you
are feeding? How often do you feed, and how much (in minutes until th
efood is gone)?

BTW, you have a number of very experienced fishkeepers within a stone's
throw (so to speak) of you. You should probably check out the Boston
Aquarium Society, since several of them are members, though I can't say
how many actually attend meetings on a regular basis. If you deal with
Uncle Ned's in Milford, there are a number o fhis employees (as well as
Ned, himself) who can help you. I cannot say much about Tropic Isle in
Framingham any more, since a lot of the good people I knew there had
moved on the last time I was there a few years ago (I've been in
Northern Virginia for about 10 years now).

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of the_penguin01748
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 8:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help me re-establish my 30 gallon freshwater tank

Hello All,

About 2 months ago I had the heater on a 30 gallon fresh water tank
fail in the on position and cook 90% of the tank. This was a planted,
low light tank with no CO2 or other special bells and whistles.

I lost most of the fish and plants in the hours and days that followed
the melt down.

I then extensively cleaned out the dead plants, did many gravel
vacuumings, and replaced the HOB filter (I hated the old one and this
was a reasonable time since much beneficial bacteria seemed dead.

To replace the filter I ran the new one along side the old one for a
week to salvage any good bacteria I could.

About a month ago I started to restock what seemed like a stable happy
(and mostly empty) tank. I now have a problem with recurring
cloudiness after I feed the tank. This is the exact same food I am
feeding another tank without issue.

Does anyone have any ides or suggestions on what is happening to me,
and how I might correct it? The current stock level is maybe 1/4 inch
of fish per gallon.

I would appreciate any thoughts or help you can offer.

Dave Roberts
Hopkinton, MA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20507 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Someone correct me if I'm wrong-but I believe we have a miscommunication.

In My diagram, the "REGULAR" Siamensis is what you're reffering to as
a "Standard" Siamensis.

The FLYING FOX" Is the same thing as what you are reffering to as a
REAL SAE



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> Kevin, if that picture you posted is correct, then you have what I
> have - instead of the standard SAE, you have a False Siamensis, which
> is also probably why they don't eat much algae for you either. It
> seems to be quite easy to misidentify similar fish! (Maybe this club
> should start compiling a guide to identifying aquarium fish - okay,
> maybe not. That would be a HUGE undertaking!)
>
> From the links Aaron gave us, the False SAE has a lighter stripe
> above
> the dark one (as does the Flying Fox) which the True Siamensis lacks;
> and it looks to me your "standard" SAE is a False SAE. I wonder what
> a real SAE would do to the algae in your tank, especially if the
> Flying Fox did such a good job? Maybe you should look around for the
> True Siamensis, so you can have all three, and see how each stacks up
> to each other when it comes to eating algae! I think that would be
> awesome. I'd do it, but I only have two 5 gallon tanks (and a 1.5
> gallon) that I don't dare put anymore fish in.
>
> Snert
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> > Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> > DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
> >
> > The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
> get
> > them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> > REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> > flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
> >
> > Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> > them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
> outt
> > hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that
> the
> > > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an
> imitator.
> > > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear
> fins.
> > > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the
> future.
> > > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> > >
> > > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> > >
> > > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best
> algae
> > > eater.
> > >
> > > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat
> much of
> > > it at all.
> > >
> > > Snert
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello all,
> > > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese
> algae
> > > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > > >
> > > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > > >
> > > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > > >
> > > > kevin
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20508 From: Kevin Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Just found the issue- There is a "flying fox" and a Siamensis flying fox"
What I have listed on my site as FLYING FOX is a siamensis flying fox,
technically known as "Crossocheilus siamensis" I should have been
more specific.

The one I called REGULAR Siamese Algae Eater is actually
"Epalzeorhynchus sp. or Garra taeniata"

That said, what is on my site is correct-mostly. It is the way to
tell the difference between a FALSE siamese, and a True "Siamensis
flying fox"





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> Kevin, if that picture you posted is correct, then you have what I
> have - instead of the standard SAE, you have a False Siamensis, which
> is also probably why they don't eat much algae for you either. It
> seems to be quite easy to misidentify similar fish! (Maybe this club
> should start compiling a guide to identifying aquarium fish - okay,
> maybe not. That would be a HUGE undertaking!)
>
> From the links Aaron gave us, the False SAE has a lighter stripe
> above
> the dark one (as does the Flying Fox) which the True Siamensis lacks;
> and it looks to me your "standard" SAE is a False SAE. I wonder what
> a real SAE would do to the algae in your tank, especially if the
> Flying Fox did such a good job? Maybe you should look around for the
> True Siamensis, so you can have all three, and see how each stacks up
> to each other when it comes to eating algae! I think that would be
> awesome. I'd do it, but I only have two 5 gallon tanks (and a 1.5
> gallon) that I don't dare put anymore fish in.
>
> Snert
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> > Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> > DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
> >
> > The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
> get
> > them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> > REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> > flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
> >
> > Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> > them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
> outt
> > hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that
> the
> > > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an
> imitator.
> > > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear
> fins.
> > > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the
> future.
> > > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> > >
> > > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> > >
> > > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best
> algae
> > > eater.
> > >
> > > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat
> much of
> > > it at all.
> > >
> > > Snert
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello all,
> > > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese
> algae
> > > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > > >
> > > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > > >
> > > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > > >
> > > > kevin
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20509 From: ssnutrino2 Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Hi all I am new to this group and I really hope someone out their may
have some advice for me. Let me start out by telling you that I have
been a herptology enthusiast for many many years and somehow turtles
chose me. I have been raising them for the last 6 yrs and unlike my
luck with plants, turtles seem to thrive with me.

So here is my delema...I recently acquired 2 hatchling map turtles.
1 a bit larger than the other. While under observation in my
quaranteen I noticed the smaller map turtle appears to blind or with
a visual birth defect. He has not opened his eyes once in over a
week. The eye sockets aren't sunken in. It looks like either the
eyelids haven't opened or the eyes aren't functioning (very cloudy).
He usually just sits on the floating log I have in there. And I've
only seen him eat small amounts usually during what looks like
frantic swimming.

This is all new to me and I wondered if anyone has any advice on
raising a blind turtle. By the way the tank he's in only has him and
1 other little map turtle and it's a custom 40 L gallon tank with a
floating log, feeder fish and a good filter.

**Any advice would really be appreciated**
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20510 From: snerticus Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
Kevin, since you yourself used the term "standard", I used it in my post
thinking you would understand what I was talking about. Please re-read
your post below. Be it standard, regular, normal, common, true, or just
SAE - I mean Siamese Algae Eater. Your picture of a Flying Fox looks
like a Flying Fox, but your picture of what you refer to as both
"standard" and/or"REGULAR" Siamese Algae Eater is a picture of a False
SAE. Aaron has given some links to help us out, and I've posted two of
them here. (Thank you Aaron!) The first one gives descriptions and
drawings. The second one has pictures. It was from these I found out
that what I thought was my True SAE was really a False SAE, or False
Siamensis (whichever name you prefer).

Descriptions/Drawings - http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/
<http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/>

Pics - http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/saephotos.html
<http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/saephotos.html>

The True SAE has a dark line running right through the caudal fin into
the tail, like the Flying Fox, only it is more washed out and not as
obvious. It also has a pointier nose than the False. The False
Siamensis' line does not go through the tail fin at all, just like your
picture of a "REGULAR".

Also, the moderator has been kind enough to put a pic up of a True SAE
so we can see what it looks like (thank you as well for the pic!).
Notice the line going through the center of the caudal fin.

Snert


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong-but I believe we have a
miscommunication.
>
> In My diagram, the "REGULAR" Siamensis is what you're reffering to as
> a "Standard" Siamensis.
>
> The FLYING FOX" Is the same thing as what you are reffering to as a
> REAL SAE
>
>
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> > > Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding
ALL
> > > DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
> > >
> > > The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
> > get
> > > them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> > > REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> > > flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
> > >
> > > Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> > > them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
> > outt
> > > hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > >
> > >




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20512 From: quietari Date: 1/22/2007
Subject: Freshwater plants...maybe?
Hey everyone, not to disrupt the current stream of fish related topics
(pun intended) i was curious if anyone here had experience with
freshwater aquatic plants.

I have found information is either tailored to people who meet a
minimum threshold of knowledge, or to peoples whose biggest problem is
algae.

I know how to deal with algae, whatever its color and form (without
tankbuddies tyvm), however now that i have to deal with plants, I am
looking for a source to help me identify visible problems with the
plant itself. Mostly discolored\translucent leaves, leaves that grow
with holes in them, and the reason for dying leaves but thriving roots.

Anyways, thank you in advance for reading, and double thanks if you can
help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20513 From: Aaron Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater plants...maybe?
I have a book I really like ~ "Aquarium Plants, the Practical Guide"
by Mr. Pablo Teapot

Also there are many websites in the Links Section here as well

Links > Planted Aquarium Info

http://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "quietari" <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, not to disrupt the current stream of fish related topics
> (pun intended) i was curious if anyone here had experience with
> freshwater aquatic plants.
>
> I have found information is either tailored to people who meet a
> minimum threshold of knowledge, or to peoples whose biggest problem is
> algae.
>
> I know how to deal with algae, whatever its color and form (without
> tankbuddies tyvm), however now that i have to deal with plants, I am
> looking for a source to help me identify visible problems with the
> plant itself. Mostly discolored\translucent leaves, leaves that grow
> with holes in them, and the reason for dying leaves but thriving roots.
>
> Anyways, thank you in advance for reading, and double thanks if you can
> help.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20514 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
I got 10 neons in the tank now but I was wondering if either flying foxes
Are good with other fishes. I had otocinclus before, they are small and do a

Good job but I was wondering if the flying foxes are better cleaners and
Aren't aggressive to other fishes.

THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR

-------Original Message-------

From: Kevin
Date: 1/22/2007 5:24:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!

Just found the issue- There is a "flying fox" and a Siamensis flying fox"
What I have listed on my site as FLYING FOX is a siamensis flying fox,
Technically known as "Crossocheilus siamensis" I should have been
More specific.

The one I called REGULAR Siamese Algae Eater is actually
"Epalzeorhynchus sp. Or Garra taeniata"

That said, what is on my site is correct-mostly. It is the way to
Tell the difference between a FALSE siamese, and a True "Siamensis
Flying fox"





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> Kevin, if that picture you posted is correct, then you have what I
> have - instead of the standard SAE, you have a False Siamensis, which
> is also probably why they don't eat much algae for you either. It
> seems to be quite easy to misidentify similar fish! (Maybe this club
> should start compiling a guide to identifying aquarium fish - okay,
> maybe not. That would be a HUGE undertaking!)
>
> From the links Aaron gave us, the False SAE has a lighter stripe
> above
> the dark one (as does the Flying Fox) which the True Siamensis lacks;
> and it looks to me your "standard" SAE is a False SAE. I wonder what
> a real SAE would do to the algae in your tank, especially if the
> Flying Fox did such a good job? Maybe you should look around for the
> True Siamensis, so you can have all three, and see how each stacks up
> to each other when it comes to eating algae! I think that would be
> awesome. I'd do it, but I only have two 5 gallon tanks (and a 1.5
> gallon) that I don't dare put anymore fish in.
>
> Snert
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> >
> > Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> > Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> > DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
> >
> > The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
> get
> > them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> > REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> > flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
> >
> > Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> > them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
> outt
> > hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> > >
> > > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that
> the
> > > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an
> imitator.
> > > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear
> fins.
> > > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the
> future.
> > > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> > >
> > > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> > >
> > > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best
> algae
> > > eater.
> > >
> > > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat
> much of
> > > it at all.
> > >
> > > Snert
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hello all,
> > > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese
> algae
> > > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > > >
> > > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > > >
> > > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > > >
> > > > kevin
> > > >
> > >
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT

LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20515 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Well today is your lucky day!
I live with a vet. who happens so specialize in exotic animals... who
particularly has a thing for tortoises.
I will pass along the question to him today when he gets into the
office. I know he will have an answer for you!
Remember you have a box tortoise, not a turtle :)

Adrian





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ssnutrino2" <ssnutrino@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all I am new to this group and I really hope someone out their
may
> have some advice for me. Let me start out by telling you that I
have
> been a herptology enthusiast for many many years and somehow
turtles
> chose me. I have been raising them for the last 6 yrs and unlike my
> luck with plants, turtles seem to thrive with me.
>
> So here is my delema...I recently acquired 2 hatchling map
turtles.
> 1 a bit larger than the other. While under observation in my
> quaranteen I noticed the smaller map turtle appears to blind or
with
> a visual birth defect. He has not opened his eyes once in over a
> week. The eye sockets aren't sunken in. It looks like either the
> eyelids haven't opened or the eyes aren't functioning (very
cloudy).
> He usually just sits on the floating log I have in there. And I've
> only seen him eat small amounts usually during what looks like
> frantic swimming.
>
> This is all new to me and I wondered if anyone has any advice on
> raising a blind turtle. By the way the tank he's in only has him
and
> 1 other little map turtle and it's a custom 40 L gallon tank with a
> floating log, feeder fish and a good filter.
>
> **Any advice would really be appreciated**
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20516 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
Ha sorry... for some reason when i read the post orginally I read,
BOX instead of MAP. You are correct in the fact that you do have a
turtle.

It's to early this morning!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ssnutrino2" <ssnutrino@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all I am new to this group and I really hope someone out their
may
> have some advice for me. Let me start out by telling you that I
have
> been a herptology enthusiast for many many years and somehow
turtles
> chose me. I have been raising them for the last 6 yrs and unlike my
> luck with plants, turtles seem to thrive with me.
>
> So here is my delema...I recently acquired 2 hatchling map
turtles.
> 1 a bit larger than the other. While under observation in my
> quaranteen I noticed the smaller map turtle appears to blind or
with
> a visual birth defect. He has not opened his eyes once in over a
> week. The eye sockets aren't sunken in. It looks like either the
> eyelids haven't opened or the eyes aren't functioning (very
cloudy).
> He usually just sits on the floating log I have in there. And I've
> only seen him eat small amounts usually during what looks like
> frantic swimming.
>
> This is all new to me and I wondered if anyone has any advice on
> raising a blind turtle. By the way the tank he's in only has him
and
> 1 other little map turtle and it's a custom 40 L gallon tank with a
> floating log, feeder fish and a good filter.
>
> **Any advice would really be appreciated**
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20517 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
While you're certainly not "off-topic" as turtles are part of aquatic
life, most of the members of this group are knowledgeable primarily
in permanently submersed aquatic life (not reptiles nor amphibians),
such as fish, aquatic plants and snails, etc. We will try to help
you, but additionally you might want to try contacting a herpetology
group.

First of all, hatchling turtles are often subject to blindness and/or
eye problems due to inadequate nutrition (which in part is due to
inadequate or improper environmental conditions). While you seem to
have some experience with these animals in raising them for 6 years
and having them thrive for you, I can't just assume you have enough
knowledge of them to see to their proper care (or else you wouldn't
be here asking), so I'll cover a few items which you may or may not
already know.

Following up on the problem of the turtle's blindness, this is
usually not due to a birth defect, and can be well assumed that it is
a nutritional problem, even though the former is always a
possibility. Your description of his "frantic swimming" points right
to that, especially if his swimming is mostly restricted to the
surface. To start with, your turtles should have more than
a "floating log" to climb out on, they should at least have a
sizeable (12" x 12") raft on which to bask with an easy access ramp.
An alternative to this would be to build up a sloping terrestrial
area at one end of the tank, using smooth pebbles twice as large as
their heads (so they can't ingest them).

The water should be kept clean with frequent partial water changes
and you should use a turtle (sulfa) block, which will help keep the
water on the acid side; this will greatly discourage bacterial
infections. The tank water should be heated to 70o - 72o. You
should have a reptile heating lamp so that the basking area is at
least 85o -- turtles need warmth to digest their food. I'd suggest
trying turtle (repti) eye drops to treat for very possible bacterial
infection. Ophthalmic ointment could be an option here too.

He obviously needs to eat more than just smaller amounts, and feeder
fish which he can't see to catch are certainly not enough. A lack of
vitamins is prime in promoting bacterial diseases of the eye,
especially vitamin A. Try feeding him mealworms, earthworm and other
substantially nutritious foods, not omitting the consideration of
shrimp and/or fresh fish from the supermarket offered as broken up
pieces. Insects are never turned down if you can feed him maimed
houseflies. If necessary, offer him feeder fish while he's on the
raft. Vegetables are a good source of many of these vitamins even if
they are meant moreso for the diet of older turtles; the hatchlings
still do better with at least some in their diet. You could include
Romaine lettuce (NEVER Iceburg lettuce) and possibly zuccini if they
take it. Many of these foods can be offer on "dry land" (raft)
rather than in the water, where he can access them easily, then
cleaning up afterwards. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ssnutrino2" <ssnutrino@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all I am new to this group and I really hope someone out their
may
> have some advice for me. Let me start out by telling you that I
have
> been a herptology enthusiast for many many years and somehow
turtles
> chose me. I have been raising them for the last 6 yrs and unlike my
> luck with plants, turtles seem to thrive with me.
>
> So here is my delema...I recently acquired 2 hatchling map
turtles.
> 1 a bit larger than the other. While under observation in my
> quaranteen I noticed the smaller map turtle appears to blind or
with
> a visual birth defect. He has not opened his eyes once in over a
> week. The eye sockets aren't sunken in. It looks like either the
> eyelids haven't opened or the eyes aren't functioning (very
cloudy).
> He usually just sits on the floating log I have in there. And I've
> only seen him eat small amounts usually during what looks like
> frantic swimming.
>
> This is all new to me and I wondered if anyone has any advice on
> raising a blind turtle. By the way the tank he's in only has him
and
> 1 other little map turtle and it's a custom 40 L gallon tank with a
> floating log, feeder fish and a good filter.
>
> **Any advice would really be appreciated**
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20518 From: Kevin Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
My Crossocheilus siamensis (true SAE/Siameses flying fox/Siamese Fox)
are very peaceful-which should be common as they're listed as a
peaceful community fish.

My "False siamensis", Epalzeorhynchus sp. or Garra taeniata, is also
very peaceful, but doesn't eat the hair algae like the Crossocheilus
siamensis.

Just make sure u get the one with the stripe all the way through the tail.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I got 10 neons in the tank now but I was wondering if either flying
foxes
> Are good with other fishes. I had otocinclus before, they are small
and do a
>
> Good job but I was wondering if the flying foxes are better cleaners
and
> Aren't aggressive to other fishes.
>
> THANKS,
> RAYMOND TREMOR
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Kevin
> Date: 1/22/2007 5:24:51 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
>
> Just found the issue- There is a "flying fox" and a Siamensis flying
fox"
> What I have listed on my site as FLYING FOX is a siamensis flying fox,
> Technically known as "Crossocheilus siamensis" I should have been
> More specific.
>
> The one I called REGULAR Siamese Algae Eater is actually
> "Epalzeorhynchus sp. Or Garra taeniata"
>
> That said, what is on my site is correct-mostly. It is the way to
> Tell the difference between a FALSE siamese, and a True "Siamensis
> Flying fox"
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> >
> > Kevin, if that picture you posted is correct, then you have what I
> > have - instead of the standard SAE, you have a False Siamensis, which
> > is also probably why they don't eat much algae for you either. It
> > seems to be quite easy to misidentify similar fish! (Maybe this club
> > should start compiling a guide to identifying aquarium fish - okay,
> > maybe not. That would be a HUGE undertaking!)
> >
> > From the links Aaron gave us, the False SAE has a lighter stripe
> > above
> > the dark one (as does the Flying Fox) which the True Siamensis lacks;
> > and it looks to me your "standard" SAE is a False SAE. I wonder what
> > a real SAE would do to the algae in your tank, especially if the
> > Flying Fox did such a good job? Maybe you should look around for the
> > True Siamensis, so you can have all three, and see how each stacks up
> > to each other when it comes to eating algae! I think that would be
> > awesome. I'd do it, but I only have two 5 gallon tanks (and a 1.5
> > gallon) that I don't dare put anymore fish in.
> >
> > Snert
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Standard Siamese are different from the flying fox. My standard
> > > Siamese don't eat much algae at all. The flying fox are feeding ALL
> > > DAY LONG (again, mainly on hair algae).
> > >
> > > The guys at my LFS are the one who recommended it. They can only
> > get
> > > them in on occasion-and due to the rarity, and the fact that I see
> > > REGULAR siamese at every place that sells fish, I believe the
> > > flyingfox is the one that is not as common and does a better job.
> > >
> > > Flyingfox aren't that easy to find, but buy a couple when u see
> > > them-Just know that most places sell the regular siamese-So check
> > outt
> > > hat webpage and make sure u know the difference.
> > >
> > > Kevin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > That's odd, the LFS I got my Siamese Algae eater from said that
> > the
> > > > SAE is the best algae eater and the the Flying Fox is an
> > imitator.
> > > > My SAE has yellowish fins, whereas the Flying Fox had clear
> > fins.
> > > > That is, if the LFS was correct. I tend to trust this LFS over
> > > > others, but that is just an opinion, and might change in the
> > future.
> > > > They do hire experienced aquarists to work there though.
> > > >
> > > > My SAE does not do a good job at eating algae, although he does
> > > > comsume some. So maybe you are right....
> > > >
> > > > But then again before I bought the SAE, I did research on the
> > > > internet and found numerous posts that said SAEs were the best
> > algae
> > > > eater.
> > > >
> > > > Now I'm REALLY confused, since my SAE pretty much doesn't eat
> > much of
> > > > it at all.
> > > >
> > > > Snert
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello all,
> > > > > So, I had a BAD hair algae problem. I got some siamensis flying
> > > > > fox-they got rid of it in a couple days!
> > > > > Problem- How can u tell the flyingfox from a regular siamese
> > algae
> > > > > eater? I just put up the solution on my personal site.
> > > > >
> > > > > check out http://www.colormekevin.com/fish
> > > > >
> > > > > I did my best to make it clear. Hope it helps someone!
> > > > >
> > > > > kevin
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
.·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
>
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20519 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Hi..New member needs turtle help!!!
I talked to Brad.
He said it sounds like a vitamin A deficency or an infection. He
would take it to a qualified Herp vet and get it checked out. If you
need help finding one, let me know and we can get you some names.

Best advice Brad could give, is that you need to get it checked out.

Adrian and Brad





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "alsarkozy" <alsarkoz@...> wrote:
>
> Ha sorry... for some reason when i read the post orginally I read,
> BOX instead of MAP. You are correct in the fact that you do have a
> turtle.
>
> It's to early this morning!
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ssnutrino2" <ssnutrino@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all I am new to this group and I really hope someone out their
> may
> > have some advice for me. Let me start out by telling you that I
> have
> > been a herptology enthusiast for many many years and somehow
> turtles
> > chose me. I have been raising them for the last 6 yrs and unlike
my
> > luck with plants, turtles seem to thrive with me.
> >
> > So here is my delema...I recently acquired 2 hatchling map
> turtles.
> > 1 a bit larger than the other. While under observation in my
> > quaranteen I noticed the smaller map turtle appears to blind or
> with
> > a visual birth defect. He has not opened his eyes once in over a
> > week. The eye sockets aren't sunken in. It looks like either
the
> > eyelids haven't opened or the eyes aren't functioning (very
> cloudy).
> > He usually just sits on the floating log I have in there. And
I've
> > only seen him eat small amounts usually during what looks like
> > frantic swimming.
> >
> > This is all new to me and I wondered if anyone has any advice on
> > raising a blind turtle. By the way the tank he's in only has him
> and
> > 1 other little map turtle and it's a custom 40 L gallon tank with
a
> > floating log, feeder fish and a good filter.
> >
> > **Any advice would really be appreciated**
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20520 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
They BOTH have you fooled... The one that you think is the flying fox is
a good algae eater for a while, but will get aggressive in your tank as
it reaches maturity. True SAE's are notoriously difficult to find in
fish stores.. The true SAE has the black band that extends all the way
through the tail, but it does not have the lighter stripe above the dark
band.

The two that you picture are the False Siamensis(with the black band
NOT extending all the way to the tail) and the Flying Fox(with the black
band extending all the way through the tail, but thicker than the true
SAE,and having a lighter colored band above the black on the body) .
Other common imitators are the CAE, or Chinese Algae Eater, which are
the most commonly seen in fish stores, and are not good for algae, but
are great for terrorizing your tanks as they grow older... lol...

Here's a good overview with pictures, that will help tell the SAE's from
their look-alikes...

http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/



The False Siamensis is commonly sold and represented in some older books
as being the same as the real SAE... it is an algae eating barb, however
it tends to lose it taste for algae, like the other two imitators, as it
grows older. Also, all three imitators tend to get more aggressive with
their own species, and even other fish in the tank as they grow older.
However, true SAE's do better in pairs or groups.

There's more on the page that I listed... too much to post here... lol...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20521 From: trtlehead13 Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Looking for anyone who knows about native/non-native species of fis
Hi, I'm a junior in college, and am getting ready to start my thesis
this semester. I am doing it on a survey of the fish and possible
amphibians of the Abacoa Greenway. I was just wondering if anyone knew
about native and non-native species residing in Florida, and even
might be able to help me identify fish if I have a problem doing so.
What I am predicting I will catch the majority of is cichlids. Any
help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20522 From: tom Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
it sounds like the water that is drying on your hood. the water
minerals or if you have hard water the calcium deposits. I used to
get that stuff also.





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sacred Wind Arabians
<kimvoo2003@...> wrote:
>
> I have some white crusty stuff spreading accross my aquarium hoods.
when I go to whipe the stuff off it crumbls into a powder. what is it?
> Kimberly
>
>
> Kimberly
> MyDream Shepherds
> German and Panda shepherds of quality
> http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20523 From: Lee Bean Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <blokmot@...> wrote:
>
> it sounds like the water that is drying on your hood. the water
> minerals or if you have hard water the calcium deposits. I used to
> get that stuff also.
>
>
>
> This is perfectly normal. Its the minerals left behind when your
water evaperates. Its a good idea to take your hood and light
assembly and either take it outside of over a trash can and wipe it
off.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sacred Wind Arabians
> <kimvoo2003@> wrote:
> >
> > I have some white crusty stuff spreading accross my aquarium
hoods.
> when I go to whipe the stuff off it crumbls into a powder. what is
it?
> > Kimberly
> >
> >
> > Kimberly
> > MyDream Shepherds
> > German and Panda shepherds of quality
> > http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20524 From: quietari Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: white stuff growing on aquariums
Do you use an airstone or diffuser that makes a lot of tiny bubbles?
I've had this problem before, and it was the result of my diffuser.
All those hundreds and thousands of bubbles rushing to the top of the
tank would pop, expelling a tiny amount of water up onto the
underside of my hood, where it would eventually dry into a white
powder you describe. For me, the problem needed regular tending to
because the buildup occured on the clear plastic that my lighting
rested on.

As people have stated, its nothing to worry about, just wipe it off.
If the diffuser is the culprit you can always move to a top mounted
filter, allowing the flow of water it causes to the surface of the
water to oxygenate your tank.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Bean" <lee_b10@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <blokmot@> wrote:
> >
> > it sounds like the water that is drying on your hood. the water
> > minerals or if you have hard water the calcium deposits. I used
to
> > get that stuff also.
> >
> >
> >
> > This is perfectly normal. Its the minerals left behind when your
> water evaperates. Its a good idea to take your hood and light
> assembly and either take it outside of over a trash can and wipe it
> off.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sacred Wind Arabians
> > <kimvoo2003@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have some white crusty stuff spreading accross my aquarium
> hoods.
> > when I go to whipe the stuff off it crumbls into a powder. what
is
> it?
> > > Kimberly
> > >
> > >
> > > Kimberly
> > > MyDream Shepherds
> > > German and Panda shepherds of quality
> > > http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20525 From: snerticus Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Siamensis Flying Fox - BEST algae eaters!!!
I do believe that's the third time we've seen that link! 8O)

Anyways, I'm through with this topic.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Loki Wolf <xxwildechildexx@...>
wrote:
>
> They BOTH have you fooled... The one that you think is the flying
fox is
> a good algae eater for a while, but will get aggressive in your
tank as
> it reaches maturity. True SAE's are notoriously difficult to find
in
> fish stores.. The true SAE has the black band that extends all the
way
> through the tail, but it does not have the lighter stripe above the
dark
> band.
>
> The two that you picture are the False Siamensis(with the black
band
> NOT extending all the way to the tail) and the Flying Fox(with the
black
> band extending all the way through the tail, but thicker than the
true
> SAE,and having a lighter colored band above the black on the
body) .
> Other common imitators are the CAE, or Chinese Algae Eater, which
are
> the most commonly seen in fish stores, and are not good for algae,
but
> are great for terrorizing your tanks as they grow older... lol...
>
> Here's a good overview with pictures, that will help tell the SAE's
from
> their look-alikes...
>
> http://www.thekrib.com/Fish/Algae-Eaters/
>
>
>
> The False Siamensis is commonly sold and represented in some older
books
> as being the same as the real SAE... it is an algae eating barb,
however
> it tends to lose it taste for algae, like the other two imitators,
as it
> grows older. Also, all three imitators tend to get more aggressive
with
> their own species, and even other fish in the tank as they grow
older.
> However, true SAE's do better in pairs or groups.
>
> There's more on the page that I listed... too much to post here...
lol...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20526 From: quietari Date: 1/23/2007
Subject: Re: Air pump timing
Generally plants dont want a lot of oxygen in the water, they want a
lot of Co2, and they generally want it when the lights are on, because
its part of the photosynthesis cycle.

Problem is the photosythesis cycle is light+co2= oxygen (okay its
simplistic bear with me) When there is no light, the plant can not use
the Co2 to complete the cycle. So, removing the oxygen source from
your tank will only encourage plant growth if you are doing it when the
light is on, not off.

In general what your friend said is true, because the less oxygen in
your water, the happier the plants have the potential to be. However
if you are introducing a lot of oxygen, and not co2 when the lights are
on, you may have difficulties growing healthy plants.

This is all general and vague commentary, cant really say more until i
know what you have and what you want your tank to be.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Ryan Scott Bardsley <rbardsley@...>
wrote:
>
> What would the effects be of putting my air pump on a timer? I heard
> from a friend that it can help the plants absorb CO2 if the pump is
> shut off during the evening. Is this true?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20527 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater plants...maybe?
I've also had trouble finding freshwater plant care info, but I've got
at least one or two sites that help a bit.
http://www.plantgeek.net and
http://www.aquariumgarden.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20531 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: 3rd time seeing the link
Chuckles... Well... I posted the email right after getting my daily
digest. Which did not yet have the other links posted. The other links
arrived in today's daily digest right along with my post... LMAO...
Great minds and all that stuff...

~grayce
http://www.villadec.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20532 From: wildkids3@yahoo.com Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Tangs....
Is there a secret to having tangs?? We have had two yellow and one mimic now..And they've all died of ick..The damsels, clown fish, mushrooms, ect. are all fine..Only the tangs seem to get the ick..
Are we doing something wrong??



____________________________________________________________________________________
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with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20533 From: hollyberrys Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: New to Board Hello everyone
Hello Everyone,I'm new to this Board so thought I would say Hello.
we have a 55 gal tank with pearlsacale,bristol,oranda,ranchu,lionhead,blackmoor and ryukin,I was into Goldfish many many years ago as a kid and just got back into Goldfish about 8 months ago we are looking for the gold fish called Panda's ,just wanted to drop in and say "Hello" to everyone.
Deborah.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20534 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?


---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20535 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving Angels.......salt is always good when they are sick. the only other suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)


Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20536 From: a fried Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Sounds like a swim bladder problem. It saddens me to say, i have never discovered a cure that actually works.


----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 4:05:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving Angels...... .salt is always good when they are sick. the only other suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

------------ --------- --------- ---
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
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http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20537 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Thanks. I moved him to another tank that I knew was safe as soon as I saw he was trouble. I have added some salt but don't want to change that water too much since those angels are doing well.

Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...> wrote:
I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving Angels.......salt is always good when they are sick. the only other suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20538 From: jane parry Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
He has developed a white slime on his top fin. I am scared that he will not make it. I am worried because I moved him to another tank and I don't want to make my other angels sick. I raised these guys from eggs and they are my babies. He is too sick to move but I am worried about making the other angels sick. Any suggestions?
a fried <quietari@...> wrote: Sounds like a swim bladder problem. It saddens me to say, i have never discovered a cure that actually works.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 4:05:36 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving Angels...... .salt is always good when they are sick. the only other suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

------------ --------- --------- ---
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20539 From: hollyberrys Date: 1/24/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Hello ,Get some Bran that you use to bake bran muffins and feed it to your
Angel Fish it works for swim bladder problems.Start off with a very small
amount , you can also wet it down and feed it that way so it will sink
hope this helps and let us know how things go ,wishing you well
Deborah
----- Original Message -----
From: "jane parry" <jasondanielrobert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] (unknown)


Thanks. I moved him to another tank that I knew was safe as soon as I saw
he was trouble. I have added some salt but don't want to change that water
too much since those angels are doing well.

Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...> wrote:
I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving
Angels.......salt is always good when they are sick. the only other
suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think
the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change
and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his
balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone
have any suggestions?

---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20540 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
I wouldn't try any medications for this, in my past they never have worked. The best thing for me whenever one is sick is to raise the temperature gradually, add salt and no light........try to make the tank as stress free as possible I guess. As long as he never left water, the move should be ok

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] (unknown)


Thanks. I moved him to another tank that I knew was safe as soon as I saw he was trouble. I have added some salt but don't want to change that water too much since those angels are doing well.

Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...> wrote:
I wish I could be more help I never had luck saving Angels.......salt is always good when they are sick. the only other suggestion is medicated food......

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: jane parry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 6:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Help! My kitty must have unplugged the filter on my angelfish tank. I think the nitrates got real high and I lost two angels. I did a rapid water change and everyone is OK now but one. He is on his side and has problems with his balance. It has been over 24 hours and he is not doing well. Does anyone have any suggestions?

---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20541 From: Kevin Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
OK-I give up!

My fish have been slowly dying off for months- and I finally figured
it out. My tank has a nematode infestation.

It started out with a rainbow fish. I noticed it had small red thread
like things protruding from it's vent. I asked around, and everyone
told me it sounded like some sort of worm, but didn't know what to do.
Eventually it died.

Around the same time, other fish were sluggish, eventually stopped
eating and died-no visable worms. Then my Keyhole cichlids got it-
with worms being visible. I treated them for internal parasites, with
no success.

Anyway, now that I'm down to a couple neons, and algae eaters, I'm
wondering what the best plan of attack is.
The neons are beathing heavy (water is perfect), and th eone black
neon is now showing visible worms protruding from the vent.

My Question- What do I do??? Should i wait for the rest of the fish
to die? the medications don't seem to get rid of these nasty little
things. If all my fish do die, will the worms/eggs/baby worms die in
a week without a host, or will they stay in the tank? Do I need to
take the tank, filters, everything apart, bleach the whole system and
completely start over from scratch with new gravel and everything?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20542 From: alsarkozy Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
So another good question for a vet.
Brad says:

I can't find much info on it. My best guess would be that
prescription medications might be more effective, but ultimately if
all fish die off would be best do start with a new set up. Nematode
eggs are very hardy in the environment. Would be hard to elimnate
with bleach or other cleaning agents.

This is the drug he recomends
Fenbendazole (Panacur®). A good parasiticide for intestinal
nematodes. Can be given orally at a dose of 50–100 mg/kg and repeated
in 2 weeks. Also can be used in a gel food at a concentration of 0.2%
(200 mg/100 grams food) and fed for 3 days, repeated in 2 weeks.
This will often control the levels of the parasite, but may never
fully eradicate them. It may need to be repeated every 6 months.


Also he recomends find a good fish vet and consulting with them. If
you need more information on finding one, don't hestate to ask.

Brad and Adrian

Here is a huge bio of the nematode

Nematode Diseases
Nematodes are common parasites of fish and can be especially
abundant in wild species. In some cases the tropical fish is the
definitive host and the nematodes will be found in the
gastrointestinal tract. In other instances the fish is an
intermediate host and the larval nematodes will be seen encysted
beneath the skin, in the musculature or in the coelomic cavity.
Medical treatment of the larval forms is very difficult because these
nematodes are encysted and well protected. Some species of
Eustrongyloides form large cysts just under the skin of tropical fish
and can be removed surgically, especially if the fish is relatively
large. As is the case with other encysted larval helminth parasites,
the disease will usually not progress unless the fish is eaten by the
definitive host.
Gastrointestinal nematodes can be observed on necropsy and ova are
frequently seen on examination of the feces. While the presence of
these parasites may not cause a problem in nature, the stresses of
captivity and shipping may exacerbate any parasitic problem.
Nematodicides such as fenbendazole and levamisole may be incorporated
into food in order to successfully treat these problems.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> OK-I give up!
>
> My fish have been slowly dying off for months- and I finally figured
> it out. My tank has a nematode infestation.
>
> It started out with a rainbow fish. I noticed it had small red
thread
> like things protruding from it's vent. I asked around, and everyone
> told me it sounded like some sort of worm, but didn't know what to
do.
> Eventually it died.
>
> Around the same time, other fish were sluggish, eventually stopped
> eating and died-no visable worms. Then my Keyhole cichlids got it-
> with worms being visible. I treated them for internal parasites,
with
> no success.
>
> Anyway, now that I'm down to a couple neons, and algae eaters, I'm
> wondering what the best plan of attack is.
> The neons are beathing heavy (water is perfect), and th eone black
> neon is now showing visible worms protruding from the vent.
>
> My Question- What do I do??? Should i wait for the rest of the fish
> to die? the medications don't seem to get rid of these nasty little
> things. If all my fish do die, will the worms/eggs/baby worms die
in
> a week without a host, or will they stay in the tank? Do I need to
> take the tank, filters, everything apart, bleach the whole system
and
> completely start over from scratch with new gravel and everything?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20543 From: jett07002 Date: 1/25/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Well, Kevin, I hope that "I give up" was just an expression and not true
intent.
The main problem you have is to figure out where the infestation is
coming from. You said the worms were coming from the fishes "vent".
I presume you mean the anal opening and not the gill?

These things could come into your tank a number of ways. 1) The
fish could have been infested when you bought them. 2) If you like to
treat your fish to a "feast" of live food, you could have introduced
them that way. Personally, I don't trust a worm infestation, they are
hard to get rid of. I would tear the tank down and clean it out. I
know it's a lot of work, but it's the better solution to not cleaning it
thoroughly and finding out you've got the same problem.

No use going through a big explanation. Determine what you want
to do first.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> OK-I give up!
>
> My fish have been slowly dying off for months- and I finally figured
> it out. My tank has a nematode infestation.
>
> It started out with a rainbow fish. I noticed it had small red thread
> like things protruding from it's vent. I asked around, and everyone
> told me it sounded like some sort of worm, but didn't know what to do.
> Eventually it died.
>
> Around the same time, other fish were sluggish, eventually stopped
> eating and died-no visable worms. Then my Keyhole cichlids got it-
> with worms being visible. I treated them for internal parasites, with
> no success.
>
> Anyway, now that I'm down to a couple neons, and algae eaters, I'm
> wondering what the best plan of attack is.
> The neons are beathing heavy (water is perfect), and th eone black
> neon is now showing visible worms protruding from the vent.
>
> My Question- What do I do??? Should i wait for the rest of the fish
> to die? the medications don't seem to get rid of these nasty little
> things. If all my fish do die, will the worms/eggs/baby worms die in
> a week without a host, or will they stay in the tank? Do I need to
> take the tank, filters, everything apart, bleach the whole system and
> completely start over from scratch with new gravel and everything?
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20544 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Are you SURE it is roundworm? Roundworms are almost impossible to get
rid of. Make sure what you are dealing with before treating it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20545 From: Kevin Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
I'm pretty sure it's roundworm. I posted a picture at
www.colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm
<http://colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm>
I looked online for it, and this seems to be the description.
slugishness for a long time, then sometimes showing the red "threads"
from the anal area, an eventually dying.

So I I needed to start all over, I guess that includes all new plants as
well.....

:0( I hope I can find another solution.

Before I got the replies to my post, I picked up some stuff called
PraziPro at the LFS. It says it treats "diseases caused by flukes,
tapeworm, flatworms, & Turbellarians" It's a 5% solution of
praziquantel.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Are you SURE it is roundworm? Roundworms are almost impossible to get
> rid of. Make sure what you are dealing with before treating it
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20546 From: kelly renee roberts Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: hi checked out all the photo albums!!
i like the fish,and the rays are interesting I love marine life
from kelly everyone have a nice day oh i have an aquirium but no fish
yet my favorite fish are angelfish and i love seahorse's.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20547 From: steve Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20548 From: Aaron Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Special Notice ~ email backlog
(*)We are currently experiencing a Groups email backlog. Messages
posted yesterday or today may be delayed or delivered out of order. We
apologize for the inconvenience. Please check the Yahoo! Groups Team
Blog for updates.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20549 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
If the rocks are not reactive with water, you should be OK. Otherwise, and
best, I'd stick with the rocks from the LFS. They will be safe in your tank.



\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question

first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20550 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
that's what my guppies had. Try the levamisole.
Emily


On 1/26/07, Kevin <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> I'm pretty sure it's roundworm. I posted a picture at
> www.colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm
> <http://colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm>
> I looked online for it, and this seems to be the description.
> slugishness for a long time, then sometimes showing the red "threads"
> from the anal area, an eventually dying.
>
> So I I needed to start all over, I guess that includes all new plants as
> well.....
>
> :0( I hope I can find another solution.
>
> Before I got the replies to my post, I picked up some stuff called
> PraziPro at the LFS. It says it treats "diseases caused by flukes,
> tapeworm, flatworms, & Turbellarians" It's a 5% solution of
> praziquantel.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "cynthia brennemann"
> <brennewoman@...> wrote:
> >
> > Are you SURE it is roundworm? Roundworms are almost impossible to get
> > rid of. Make sure what you are dealing with before treating it
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20551 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 1/26/2007
Subject: Re: Nematode/Round Worm Infestation. HELP!
Do a search on aquatic life for "nematodes" and you'll find my thread from a
while back. Try the levamisole before you give up. It was easy to use. Then
feed live foods to push the dead worms through the system.
Emily


On 1/26/07, Emily Tenczar <etenczar@...> wrote:
>
> that's what my guppies had. Try the levamisole.
> Emily
>
>
> On 1/26/07, Kevin <kevin@...> wrote:
> >
> > I'm pretty sure it's roundworm. I posted a picture at
> > www.colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm
> > < http://colormekevin.com/fish/parasite.htm>
> > I looked online for it, and this seems to be the description.
> > slugishness for a long time, then sometimes showing the red "threads"
> > from the anal area, an eventually dying.
> >
> > So I I needed to start all over, I guess that includes all new plants as
> > well.....
> >
> > :0( I hope I can find another solution.
> >
> > Before I got the replies to my post, I picked up some stuff called
> > PraziPro at the LFS. It says it treats "diseases caused by flukes,
> > tapeworm, flatworms, & Turbellarians" It's a 5% solution of
> > praziquantel.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "cynthia brennemann"
> > <brennewoman@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you SURE it is roundworm? Roundworms are almost impossible to get
> > > rid of. Make sure what you are dealing with before treating it
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20552 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you doing
shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?



You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about minerals to
avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For example, avoid
any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them with a wire
brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and then run
them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any soap.



I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks prepared just
this way!



Good luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question



first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20553 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
I would just rinse them off.... I've gone outside and found rocks and put them in my 55 gal. cichlid tank and have had no problems....the only thing to watch out for is something that would make the water acidic...such as bog wood unless your water is like mine ...Im guessing my water is approx. 8.4 out of the tap and I have angels in another tank and for the life of me I cannot lower the PH because of the buffers in the water...

steve <steve01@...> wrote: first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20554 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: hi there new member here with a question
Another thing you can do when you find rocks outside is place them in a bucket of water, add 1-2 teaspoons white vinegar. If the rocks fizz personally wouldn't use them as this will change the ph in your tank, if they don't it won't mess with the ph. After they've passed the "fizz test" I have a big kettle that I boil them in for 10 minutes just to be sure to kill anything bacterial that maybe attached, cool them over night then place them in the tank.

With all the cichlids that live here had to do something as I couldn't afford the $2+ per pound of rock the stores want, after researching how to prepare "found" rocks this method has worked well. Course where I live we have oodles of creeks, rivers and such to look for them.

Shannon

FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@...> wrote:
I would just rinse them off.... I've gone outside and found rocks and put them in my 55 gal. cichlid tank and have had no problems....the only thing to watch out for is something that would make the water acidic...such as bog wood unless your water is like mine ...Im guessing my water is approx. 8.4 out of the tap and I have angels in another tank and for the life of me I cannot lower the PH because of the buffers in the water...

steve <steve01@...> wrote: first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20555 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a questi
Africans like the higher pH, so depending on what your pH is out of the tap,
the Africans could be an exception to the rule about avoiding rocks that
cause vinegar to fizz. You might actually be trying to get those!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shannon Mulberry
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 10:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question



Another thing you can do when you find rocks outside is place them in a
bucket of water, add 1-2 teaspoons white vinegar. If the rocks fizz
personally wouldn't use them as this will change the ph in your tank, if
they don't it won't mess with the ph. After they've passed the "fizz test" I
have a big kettle that I boil them in for 10 minutes just to be sure to kill
anything bacterial that maybe attached, cool them over night then place them
in the tank.

With all the cichlids that live here had to do something as I couldn't
afford the $2+ per pound of rock the stores want, after researching how to
prepare "found" rocks this method has worked well. Course where I live we
have oodles of creeks, rivers and such to look for them.

Shannon

FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@sbcglobal. <mailto:1badmoe%40sbcglobal.net> net>
wrote:
I would just rinse them off.... I've gone outside and found rocks and put
them in my 55 gal. cichlid tank and have had no problems....the only thing
to watch out for is something that would make the water acidic...such as bog
wood unless your water is like mine ...Im guessing my water is approx. 8.4
out of the tap and I have angels in another tank and for the life of me I
cannot lower the PH because of the buffers in the water...

steve <steve01@yahoo. <mailto:steve01%40yahoo.com> com> wrote: first off i
have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first year
or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in them
that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered with
a penplax air pump and mini filter

right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
rock and fish
2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish

and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about 10
tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
half yellow, and 1 bala shark

now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside and
pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all the
bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
water, this would be my first chichlid tank
thanks for the help

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20556 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
thanks for the help there
i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and white
horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them with
other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been reading
on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s help
this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you doing
> shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
>
>
>
> You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
minerals to
> avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
example, avoid
> any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
with a wire
> brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
then run
> them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
soap.
>
>
>
> I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
prepared just
> this way!
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question
>
>
>
> first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
year
> or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
> large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
them
> that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
with
> a penplax air pump and mini filter
>
> right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
> rock and fish
> 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
>
> and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about
10
> tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
> half yellow, and 1 bala shark
>
> now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
> african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
and
> pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
the
> bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> thanks for the help
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20557 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a question
i think the ph from my tap water is low in the 7.2 range i added some
alkaline buffer to the water it is up to about 8.0 now i also added
some instant ocean sea salt mix since i have it on stock anyways for
my saltwater tank was told by a few employees at 1 of the better LFS
in SWPA that the products i am using will work just fine to raise the
PHi still gotta add a lil bit more but not to much more from what i
understand anything above 8 is good for african chichlids

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Africans like the higher pH, so depending on what your pH is out of
the tap,
> the Africans could be an exception to the rule about avoiding rocks
that
> cause vinegar to fizz. You might actually be trying to get those!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Shannon Mulberry
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 10:36 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question
>
>
>
> Another thing you can do when you find rocks outside is place them
in a
> bucket of water, add 1-2 teaspoons white vinegar. If the rocks fizz
> personally wouldn't use them as this will change the ph in your
tank, if
> they don't it won't mess with the ph. After they've passed
the "fizz test" I
> have a big kettle that I boil them in for 10 minutes just to be
sure to kill
> anything bacterial that maybe attached, cool them over night then
place them
> in the tank.
>
> With all the cichlids that live here had to do something as I
couldn't
> afford the $2+ per pound of rock the stores want, after researching
how to
> prepare "found" rocks this method has worked well. Course where I
live we
> have oodles of creeks, rivers and such to look for them.
>
> Shannon
>
> FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@sbcglobal. <mailto:1badmoe%
40sbcglobal.net> net>
> wrote:
> I would just rinse them off.... I've gone outside and found rocks
and put
> them in my 55 gal. cichlid tank and have had no problems....the
only thing
> to watch out for is something that would make the water
acidic...such as bog
> wood unless your water is like mine ...Im guessing my water is
approx. 8.4
> out of the tap and I have angels in another tank and for the life
of me I
> cannot lower the PH because of the buffers in the water...
>
> steve <steve01@yahoo. <mailto:steve01%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:
first off i
> have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
year
> or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
> large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
them
> that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
with
> a penplax air pump and mini filter
>
> right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
> rock and fish
> 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
>
> and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about
10
> tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
> half yellow, and 1 bala shark
>
> now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
> african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
and
> pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
the
> bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> thanks for the help
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20558 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna and those who
have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at least five
females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a little
bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don’t have room
for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species that are blue
with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36” long?



Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I had a 40
gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and they were
killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank, it’s six feet
long so everyone can have his own territory.



Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for every male,
and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question



thanks for the help there
i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and white
horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them with
other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been reading
on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s help
this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you doing
> shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
>
>
>
> You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
minerals to
> avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
example, avoid
> any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
with a wire
> brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
then run
> them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
soap.
>
>
>
> I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
prepared just
> this way!
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question
>
>
>
> first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
year
> or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
> large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
them
> that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
with
> a penplax air pump and mini filter
>
> right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
> rock and fish
> 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
>
> and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about
10
> tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
> half yellow, and 1 bala shark
>
> now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
> african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
and
> pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
the
> bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> thanks for the help
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20559 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a que
the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them to
swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that i
have feeder fish in
here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass with
it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have visited
around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or so
africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little tanks
and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some kind
in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to sell
them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that many in
a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some adults
so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over loaded
tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually not
in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
lol i m nuts i guess
PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30 gallon
tank and they all did well together


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna and
those who
> have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
least five
> females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a
little
> bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
have room
> for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species that
are blue
> with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
>
>
>
> Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I
had a 40
> gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and
they were
> killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank, it's
six feet
> long so everyone can have his own territory.
>
>
>
> Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for every
male,
> and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
with a
> question
>
>
>
> thanks for the help there
> i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
> thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
white
> horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
> have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
> with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
with
> other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
> inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
reading
> on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s
help
> this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you
doing
> > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> >
> >
> >
> > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
> minerals to
> > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> example, avoid
> > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
> with a wire
> > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
> then run
> > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
> soap.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> prepared just
> > this way!
> >
> >
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> question
> >
> >
> >
> > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
> year
> > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in
a
> > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
> them
> > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
> with
> > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> >
> > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with
live
> > rock and fish
> > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> >
> > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
about
> 10
> > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue
and
> > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> >
> > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up
for
> > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
> and
> > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
> the
> > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > thanks for the help
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20560 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
How do the LFS's do it? It is quite simple. With many Africans, severe
overcrowding actually leads to a lessening of aggression. Water changes
are done daily. The water is normally heavily filtered, often by a
central filtration unit. And, as you mention, the fish are not in that
type of environment for a very long period of time.

There is a lot of work, normally not appreciated, that happens in a LFS.
Most of this happens during the hours the store is not open to
customers, though some will do it during slow periods when the store is
open.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question

the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them to
swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that i
have feeder fish in
here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass with
it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have visited
around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or so
africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little tanks
and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some kind
in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to sell
them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that many in
a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some adults
so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over loaded
tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually not
in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
lol i m nuts i guess
PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30 gallon
tank and they all did well together


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna and
those who
> have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
least five
> females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a
little
> bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
have room
> for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species that
are blue
> with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
>
>
>
> Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I
had a 40
> gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and
they were
> killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank, it's
six feet
> long so everyone can have his own territory.
>
>
>
> Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for every
male,
> and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
with a
> question
>
>
>
> thanks for the help there
> i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
> thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
white
> horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
> have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
> with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
with
> other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
> inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
reading
> on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s
help
> this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you
doing
> > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> >
> >
> >
> > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
> minerals to
> > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> example, avoid
> > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
> with a wire
> > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
> then run
> > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
> soap.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> prepared just
> > this way!
> >
> >
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> question
> >
> >
> >
> > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
> year
> > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in
a
> > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
> them
> > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
> with
> > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> >
> > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with
live
> > rock and fish
> > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> >
> > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
about
> 10
> > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue
and
> > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> >
> > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up
for
> > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
> and
> > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
> the
> > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > thanks for the help
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20561 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
I’ve kept 10 of them in a 10 gallon tank during quarantine (3 weeks) as well
with no ill effects. Yes, the fish stores are OK doing it because the fish
are not there long, and they tend to be juvies. Once they become sexually
mature, things change…fast.



There are exceptions to every rule, and the info I provided below was not
meant to be strict rules but instead ideas to give you the best chance of
success. Ray from this group tried to tell me a 40 gallon tank was not the
best for mbuna, but I had to try it, and after a year I found he had given
me good advice.



Try it, and maybe you will be the exception like your friend! Maybe take a
look at Saulosi…dwarf mbuna (3”), not too, too aggressive, males bright blue
with black bars and females yellow-orange. One male, three females. You
will probably have to mail order them. Avoid buying from mixed cichlid
tanks to minimize the chances of buying a hybrid. Have a spare tank handy
to separate aggressors. The time to worry about deaths is when they
approach maturity at about one year of age. Watch for one being harassed by
the others. The stressed one can sicken with Malawi Bloat, and then the
illness runs through your tank taking one fish every couple of days.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
with a question



the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them to
swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that i
have feeder fish in
here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass with
it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have visited
around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or so
africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little tanks
and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some kind
in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to sell
them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that many in
a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some adults
so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over loaded
tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually not
in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
lol i m nuts i guess
PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30 gallon
tank and they all did well together

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna and
those who
> have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
least five
> females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a
little
> bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
have room
> for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species that
are blue
> with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
>
>
>
> Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I
had a 40
> gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and
they were
> killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank, it's
six feet
> long so everyone can have his own territory.
>
>
>
> Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for every
male,
> and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
with a
> question
>
>
>
> thanks for the help there
> i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
> thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
white
> horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
> have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
> with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
with
> other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
> inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
reading
> on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s
help
> this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you
doing
> > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> >
> >
> >
> > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
> minerals to
> > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> example, avoid
> > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
> with a wire
> > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
> then run
> > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
> soap.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> prepared just
> > this way!
> >
> >
> >
> > Good luck!
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> question
> >
> >
> >
> > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
> year
> > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in
a
> > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
> them
> > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
> with
> > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> >
> > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with
live
> > rock and fish
> > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> >
> > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
about
> 10
> > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue
and
> > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> >
> > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up
for
> > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
> and
> > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
> the
> > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > thanks for the help
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20562 From: steve Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
i have heard this team hybrid only a couple times now what exactly
does it mean or what is it?
thanks again for the help

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I've kept 10 of them in a 10 gallon tank during quarantine (3
weeks) as well
> with no ill effects. Yes, the fish stores are OK doing it because
the fish
> are not there long, and they tend to be juvies. Once they become
sexually
> mature, things change…fast.
>
>
>
> There are exceptions to every rule, and the info I provided below
was not
> meant to be strict rules but instead ideas to give you the best
chance of
> success. Ray from this group tried to tell me a 40 gallon tank was
not the
> best for mbuna, but I had to try it, and after a year I found he
had given
> me good advice.
>
>
>
> Try it, and maybe you will be the exception like your friend!
Maybe take a
> look at Saulosi…dwarf mbuna (3"), not too, too aggressive, males
bright blue
> with black bars and females yellow-orange. One male, three
females. You
> will probably have to mail order them. Avoid buying from mixed
cichlid
> tanks to minimize the chances of buying a hybrid. Have a spare
tank handy
> to separate aggressors. The time to worry about deaths is when they
> approach maturity at about one year of age. Watch for one being
harassed by
> the others. The stressed one can sicken with Malawi Bloat, and
then the
> illness runs through your tank taking one fish every couple of days.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 5:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member
here
> with a question
>
>
>
> the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them to
> swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
> tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that i
> have feeder fish in
> here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass
with
> it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have
visited
> around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or so
> africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
> most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little tanks
> and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some kind
> in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to
sell
> them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that many
in
> a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some
adults
> so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over loaded
> tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually
not
> in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
> lol i m nuts i guess
> PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30
gallon
> tank and they all did well together
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna
and
> those who
> > have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
> least five
> > females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a
> little
> > bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
> have room
> > for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species
that
> are blue
> > with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
> >
> >
> >
> > Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I
> had a 40
> > gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and
> they were
> > killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank,
it's
> six feet
> > long so everyone can have his own territory.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for
every
> male,
> > and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
> with a
> > question
> >
> >
> >
> > thanks for the help there
> > i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i
am
> > thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
> white
> > horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> > called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
> > have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
> > with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
> with
> > other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> > believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under
5
> > inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
> reading
> > on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s
> help
> > this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you
> doing
> > > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
> > minerals to
> > > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> > example, avoid
> > > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
> > with a wire
> > > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
> > then run
> > > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
> > soap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> > prepared just
> > > this way!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> > question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but
i
> > > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
> > year
> > > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them
in
> a
> > > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
> > them
> > > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
> > with
> > > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> > >
> > > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with
> live
> > > rock and fish
> > > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma,
green
> > > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> > >
> > > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
> about
> > 10
> > > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue
> and
> > > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> > >
> > > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up
> for
> > > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go
outside
> > and
> > > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off
all
> > the
> > > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> > > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off
with
> > > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > > thanks for the help
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20563 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
A common hybrid in the industry is a fish that has a labidochromis caeruleus
(Yellow Lab) as one parent, and metriaclima estherae (Red Zebra) as the
other parent. The fish are bright yellow and are sold as yellow labs.



A hybrid is like a mutt in the dog world. You don't know what it is going
to look like when it grows up, you can't predict what it's behavior will be
so you don't know what fish will get along with it in your tank, and you
can't sell the fry.



Hybridization happens by accident in tanks, even when steps are taken to
prevent it (plenty of same-species females for every male). Sounds cold,
but what most people do is let females spit out hybrid fry in the community
tank, where nature takes it course (the fry are eaten by the other
inhabitants).



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member
here with a question




i have heard this team hybrid only a couple times now what exactly
does it mean or what is it?
thanks again for the help



.


<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=8495157/grpspId=1705042752/msgId
=20562/stime=1169945354/nc1=1/nc2=2/nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20564 From: Lisa Date: 1/27/2007
Subject: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Hello.
My name as you may have gathered is Lisa.
I live in South East Victoria, Australia.

I have 1 Blue/Red female Betta (Drucilla) in a small tank that they
sell in chain pet stores. In a similar tank (Can't keep them
togeather cause she attacks him) I also have a Blue/Red male Betta.

I've had the male for just under twelve months, while i've had the
female just half a year.

The female is lively and observent. (She hides from strangers, But
gets excited when she sees me)

However my male (William) over the last week has become very
sluggish, and his colour which used to be viberant has gone a very
milky dull greyish colour. His fins on observation seems to be
clamped. (They're not rotting) And he sits at the bottem of his tank,
and barely eats.
He's already a fussy eater to begin with. Will only eat 'Pro Balance-
Tropical Fish food diet, and amino Acid Additives, Colour flakes'

I've over the past tried to supplement his diet with live foods but
gave up after a while.

He has these moments where he shoots to the serface and eats
vigerously, but then sinks back to the bottem and just sits there
looking depressed.

There is a single plastic plant in the tank. The live ones kept
dieing and went slimey.

I changed his tank Tuesday just gone. Did nothing differnt to what I
normally do, and that's when it all started.

There are no white spots, and I don't think it's fungal.

He's in room temp water. always has been since I got him, and has
never had any problems before.

Please help me save him!

Please ask me any questions to try and help detirmine the problem, as
I am a novice Betta keeper
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20565 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: My sick Betta
Please help me.

His name is William.

He's very pale, and just sits at the bottem of the tank.
He hardly eats anymore, is very lathargic, I think he's depressed,
But he's well cared for. I love him dearly.

He has no white spots, and his fins are not rotting, but they look limp. 'Clamped' I think is the term?


Lisa

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20566 From: Lisa Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Photo regarding sick Betta
If this works, here's a couple of picks of my poor William in the photo
section under Lisa's Wiliam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20567 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
Short of replying to my own message, i'm trying to get a picture sent. So here Goes.

_,_._,___



Lisa





Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20568 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
I could be wrong, and Im not a expert betta guy but a lot of times when you buy a betta from the local fish store they are "middle aged" ..Im not sure how long betta's live for ... the one I had lived probably a year or so.
Lisa <lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote: Hello.
My name as you may have gathered is Lisa.
I live in South East Victoria, Australia.

I have 1 Blue/Red female Betta (Drucilla) in a small tank that they
sell in chain pet stores. In a similar tank (Can't keep them
togeather cause she attacks him) I also have a Blue/Red male Betta.

I've had the male for just under twelve months, while i've had the
female just half a year.

The female is lively and observent. (She hides from strangers, But
gets excited when she sees me)

However my male (William) over the last week has become very
sluggish, and his colour which used to be viberant has gone a very
milky dull greyish colour. His fins on observation seems to be
clamped. (They're not rotting) And he sits at the bottem of his tank,
and barely eats.
He's already a fussy eater to begin with. Will only eat 'Pro Balance-
Tropical Fish food diet, and amino Acid Additives, Colour flakes'

I've over the past tried to supplement his diet with live foods but
gave up after a while.

He has these moments where he shoots to the serface and eats
vigerously, but then sinks back to the bottem and just sits there
looking depressed.

There is a single plastic plant in the tank. The live ones kept
dieing and went slimey.

I changed his tank Tuesday just gone. Did nothing differnt to what I
normally do, and that's when it all started.

There are no white spots, and I don't think it's fungal.

He's in room temp water. always has been since I got him, and has
never had any problems before.

Please help me save him!

Please ask me any questions to try and help detirmine the problem, as
I am a novice Betta keeper






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20569 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a que
Hello Steve, While it has been explained what happens with the
behavior of these fish in LFS's, it still may not be clear to you as
to how or why this should be so. Simply put, its not that their
aggression is reduced, but that there aggression is being spread out
to that many more co-inhabitants of the same tank (there is safety in
numbers -- LOL). The other factor that comes into play temporarily
(at the onset of the LFS's tank stocking) is one you have touched on;
initially, there are no territories set up, all is new and its
difficult to establish a territory with so many inhabitants. So you
see by this that the more specimens in the tank, up to the point of
maximum tank capacity, the safer each fish is from any aggression by
a fish which is looking to dominate.

Your plan of having just four fish in your tank is risky at best,
unless they are one of the less aggressive species (Yellow Labs or
Peacocks, for instance). Most Mbuna however display increasing
amounts of aggression, depending upon the species and require a
minimum tank length of at least 36" (preferably by 18"), with of
course a good compliment of rocks and caves, to have them co-
exist "peacefully" to the point of having success in their
maintenance with mortalities. This size tank (and area) is not
arbitrarily thought up, but is the result many years of observation
not only by myself but by many other devoted hobbyists of these types
of Cichlids. Case in point -- when we were first importing these
fish in the late '60's and early '70's, we had banks of stock tanks
of 50 gallon capacity in which we would put a box (of 30 or so) of
any one of these Mbuna species in it for resale, with rarely any
mortalities due to aggression -- it just didn't happen. Any problems
that might have arisen happened when the numbers got down to 4 or 5
or so, at which time we'd transfer those few to an adjacent tank to
be added to a few more; and these were all bare tanks.

You may not see this aggression immediately, if you're buying small
juveniles, but I do wish you luck with this set up as they mature and
do not recommend it unless a "milder" species is considered, which
would certainly not be P. auratus as I believe you mentioned. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them to
> swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
> tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that i
> have feeder fish in
> here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass
with
> it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have
visited
> around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or so
> africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
> most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little tanks
> and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some kind
> in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to
sell
> them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that many
in
> a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some
adults
> so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over loaded
> tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually
not
> in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
> lol i m nuts i guess
> PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30
gallon
> tank and they all did well together
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna
and
> those who
> > have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
> least five
> > females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a
> little
> > bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
> have room
> > for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species
that
> are blue
> > with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
> >
> >
> >
> > Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I
> had a 40
> > gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and
> they were
> > killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank,
it's
> six feet
> > long so everyone can have his own territory.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for
every
> male,
> > and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per
species.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here
> with a
> > question
> >
> >
> >
> > thanks for the help there
> > i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i
am
> > thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
> white
> > horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> > called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
> > have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
> > with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
> with
> > other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> > believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under
5
> > inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
> reading
> > on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s
> help
> > this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you
> doing
> > > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
> > minerals to
> > > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> > example, avoid
> > > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
> > with a wire
> > > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
> > then run
> > > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
> > soap.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> > prepared just
> > > this way!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> > question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but
i
> > > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
> > year
> > > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them
in
> a
> > > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
> > them
> > > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
> > with
> > > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> > >
> > > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with
> live
> > > rock and fish
> > > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma,
green
> > > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> > >
> > > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
> about
> > 10
> > > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue
> and
> > > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> > >
> > > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up
> for
> > > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go
outside
> > and
> > > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off
all
> > the
> > > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> > > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off
with
> > > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > > thanks for the help
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20570 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
If given the opportunity, many of these Mbuna species, being closely
related, will interbreed especially in a set up you are proposing --
maintaining 2 species in the same tank, in close proximity. I don't
recommend your considering such a setup unless these two species are
more distantly related. This does not mean maintaining two Mbuna
species together, even if they are Metriaclima and Labeotropheus
(somewhat more distantly related), but perhaps having a species of
Mbuna maintained with that of the Utaka's, if you have the room.
Again, temperament must be considered here, as you can't mix M. zebra
with one of the Peacocks. The responsible Cichlid hobbyist won't
allow such hybrids to happen, or if it does they are certainly not
marketed, sold or traded. Otherwise, a (single) "species" tank
should be considered, which most hobbyists prefer doing anyway. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
>
> i have heard this team hybrid only a couple times now what exactly
> does it mean or what is it?
> thanks again for the help
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I've kept 10 of them in a 10 gallon tank during quarantine (3
> weeks) as well
> > with no ill effects. Yes, the fish stores are OK doing it
because
> the fish
> > are not there long, and they tend to be juvies. Once they become
> sexually
> > mature, things change…fast.
> >
> >
> >
> > There are exceptions to every rule, and the info I provided below
> was not
> > meant to be strict rules but instead ideas to give you the best
> chance of
> > success. Ray from this group tried to tell me a 40 gallon tank
was
> not the
> > best for mbuna, but I had to try it, and after a year I found he
> had given
> > me good advice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Try it, and maybe you will be the exception like your friend!
> Maybe take a
> > look at Saulosi…dwarf mbuna (3"), not too, too aggressive, males
> bright blue
> > with black bars and females yellow-orange. One male, three
> females. You
> > will probably have to mail order them. Avoid buying from mixed
> cichlid
> > tanks to minimize the chances of buying a hybrid. Have a spare
> tank handy
> > to separate aggressors. The time to worry about deaths is when
they
> > approach maturity at about one year of age. Watch for one being
> harassed by
> > the others. The stressed one can sicken with Malawi Bloat, and
> then the
> > illness runs through your tank taking one fish every couple of
days.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 5:29 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new
member
> here
> > with a question
> >
> >
> >
> > the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them
to
> > swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of my
> > tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon that
i
> > have feeder fish in
> > here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass
> with
> > it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have
> visited
> > around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20 or
so
> > africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons at
> > most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little
tanks
> > and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some
kind
> > in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping to
> sell
> > them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that
many
> in
> > a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some
> adults
> > so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over
loaded
> > tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are usually
> not
> > in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
> > lol i m nuts i guess
> > PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30
> gallon
> > tank and they all did well together
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna
> and
> > those who
> > > have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at
> > least five
> > > females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are
a
> > little
> > > bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don't
> > have room
> > > for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species
> that
> > are blue
> > > with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank.
I
> > had a 40
> > > gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year,
and
> > they were
> > > killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank,
> it's
> > six feet
> > > long so everyone can have his own territory.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for
> every
> > male,
> > > and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per
species.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member
here
> > with a
> > > question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > thanks for the help there
> > > i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i
> am
> > > thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and
> > white
> > > horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
> > > called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or
i
> > > have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r
blue
> > > with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them
> > with
> > > other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
> > > believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size
under
> 5
> > > inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
> > reading
> > > on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone
s
> > help
> > > this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com,
> > > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are
you
> > doing
> > > > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough
about
> > > minerals to
> > > > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
> > > example, avoid
> > > > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub
them
> > > with a wire
> > > > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens,
and
> > > then run
> > > > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding
any
> > > soap.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> > > prepared just
> > > > this way!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Good luck!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _____
> > > >
> > > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com]
> > > On
> > > > Behalf Of steve
> > > > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
> > > question
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now
but
> i
> > > > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the
first
> > > year
> > > > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them
> in
> > a
> > > > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs
in
> > > them
> > > > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was
filtered
> > > with
> > > > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> > > >
> > > > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater
with
> > live
> > > > rock and fish
> > > > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma,
> green
> > > > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> > > >
> > > > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of
> > about
> > > 10
> > > > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half
blue
> > and
> > > > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> > > >
> > > > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting
up
> > for
> > > > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go
> outside
> > > and
> > > > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off
> all
> > > the
> > > > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is
there
> > > > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off
> with
> > > > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > > > thanks for the help
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20571 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
No, the betta breeders cannot spend that much time and effort on
petstore bettas. They power grow them and ship them out by around 3-6
months.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20572 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Well clamped fins are definately a sign of illness. Is his body
distended or bloated in any way.

You say he's loosing color, could it be velvet or ich?

And the plants need certain conditions to thrive, just as bettas do.
Light, ph, and a good substrate with proper nutrients will keep them
thriving
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20573 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Lisa, I am so sorry to hear about your betta. I had a similar problem in one of my tanks and the PH was off. I got that fixed and everyone is now doing fine. Take some of your water to the pet store and have it checked. This can happen with a change of water or just about anything. Also the ich might be a problem, too. All the best with him.

---------------------------------
Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20574 From: steve Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here wit
i was planning on have the 3 of the same chichlids in the tank or
maybe 4 in hoping to get just 1 male as you have mentioned but i
guess when they r juvies they r hard to tell apart but when then r
grown up i was told 1 way of telling the difference is the top fin of
the female is more rounded and the male is more of a point
ok i guess i will have to stay away from the auratus maybe you guys
can give me a few more examples of some more chichlids that r a lil
more peaceful
i think donna did a good job explaining the hybrid fish to me
comparing it to dogs saying it would be more like a mutt
but like i said i will be keeping the same kind together
thanks again

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> If given the opportunity, many of these Mbuna species, being
closely
> related, will interbreed especially in a set up you are proposing --

> maintaining 2 species in the same tank, in close proximity. I
don't
> recommend your considering such a setup unless these two species
are
> more distantly related. This does not mean maintaining two Mbuna
> species together, even if they are Metriaclima and Labeotropheus
> (somewhat more distantly related), but perhaps having a species of
> Mbuna maintained with that of the Utaka's, if you have the room.
> Again, temperament must be considered here, as you can't mix M.
zebra
> with one of the Peacocks. The responsible Cichlid hobbyist won't
> allow such hybrids to happen, or if it does they are certainly not
> marketed, sold or traded. Otherwise, a (single) "species" tank
> should be considered, which most hobbyists prefer doing anyway. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > i have heard this team hybrid only a couple times now what
exactly
> > does it mean or what is it?
> > thanks again for the help
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I've kept 10 of them in a 10 gallon tank during quarantine (3
> > weeks) as well
> > > with no ill effects. Yes, the fish stores are OK doing it
> because
> > the fish
> > > are not there long, and they tend to be juvies. Once they
become
> > sexually
> > > mature, things change…fast.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > There are exceptions to every rule, and the info I provided
below
> > was not
> > > meant to be strict rules but instead ideas to give you the best
> > chance of
> > > success. Ray from this group tried to tell me a 40 gallon tank
> was
> > not the
> > > best for mbuna, but I had to try it, and after a year I found
he
> > had given
> > > me good advice.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Try it, and maybe you will be the exception like your friend!
> > Maybe take a
> > > look at Saulosi…dwarf mbuna (3"), not too, too aggressive,
males
> > bright blue
> > > with black bars and females yellow-orange. One male, three
> > females. You
> > > will probably have to mail order them. Avoid buying from mixed
> > cichlid
> > > tanks to minimize the chances of buying a hybrid. Have a spare
> > tank handy
> > > to separate aggressors. The time to worry about deaths is when
> they
> > > approach maturity at about one year of age. Watch for one
being
> > harassed by
> > > the others. The stressed one can sicken with Malawi Bloat, and
> > then the
> > > illness runs through your tank taking one fish every couple of
> days.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 5:29 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new
> member
> > here
> > > with a question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > the tank is 30L x 18H x 12D there r lots of rocks also for them
> to
> > > swim around in and also caves i will post a picture of all of
my
> > > tanks in the photo dept here well except for the 5 1/2gallon
that
> i
> > > have feeder fish in
> > > here is a question for you too i m not trying to be a smart ass
> > with
> > > it either just incase it sounds like it but in the LFS i have
> > visited
> > > around my area they will have a large mix of maybe like 10-20
or
> so
> > > africans in a small little tank i would guess maybe 20 gallons
at
> > > most and they all seem to be getting along well in the little
> tanks
> > > and they have no hiding spots maybe 1 rock and a plant of some
> kind
> > > in each aquarium now i know the over stock there tanks hoping
to
> > sell
> > > them in a few days or at most a week but still they have that
> many
> > in
> > > a small tank and yes they are juvenille but they also have some
> > adults
> > > so i guess the question is how do they survive such an over
> loaded
> > > tank if they kill each other off or is it cause they are
usually
> > not
> > > in the fish stores long enough to claim territory??????
> > > lol i m nuts i guess
> > > PS i also had a friend that kept maybe 5 or 6 africans in a 30
> > gallon
> > > tank and they all did well together
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com,
> > > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive
mbuna
> > and
> > > those who
> > > > have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to
at
> > > least five
> > > > females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs
are
> a
> > > little
> > > > bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you
don't
> > > have room
> > > > for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species
> > that
> > > are blue
> > > > with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36" long?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna
tank.
> I
> > > had a 40
> > > > gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year,
> and
> > > they were
> > > > killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon
tank,
> > it's
> > > six feet
> > > > long so everyone can have his own territory.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for
> > every
> > > male,
> > > > and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per
> species.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _____
> > > >
> > > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com]
> > > On
> > > > Behalf Of steve
> > > > Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member
> here
> > > with a
> > > > question
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > thanks for the help there
> > > > i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank
i
> > am
> > > > thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black
and
> > > white
> > > > horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they
r
> > > > called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones
or
> i
> > > > have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r
> blue
> > > > with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have
them
> > > with
> > > > other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but
i
> > > > believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size
> under
> > 5
> > > > inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been
> > > reading
> > > > on alot of websites about them again thanks again for
everyone
> s
> > > help
> > > > this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com,
> > > > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are
> you
> > > doing
> > > > > shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough
> about
> > > > minerals to
> > > > > avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish.
For
> > > > example, avoid
> > > > > any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub
> them
> > > > with a wire
> > > > > brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens,
> and
> > > > then run
> > > > > them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding
> any
> > > > soap.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
> > > > prepared just
> > > > > this way!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Good luck!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > _____
> > > > >
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com]
> > > > On
> > > > > Behalf Of steve
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with
a
> > > > question
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now
> but
> > i
> > > > > would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the
> first
> > > > year
> > > > > or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept
them
> > in
> > > a
> > > > > large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had
cheeseballs
> in
> > > > them
> > > > > that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was
> filtered
> > > > with
> > > > > a penplax air pump and mini filter
> > > > >
> > > > > right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater
> with
> > > live
> > > > > rock and fish
> > > > > 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma,
> > green
> > > > > chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
> > > > >
> > > > > and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix
of
> > > about
> > > > 10
> > > > > tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half
> blue
> > > and
> > > > > half yellow, and 1 bala shark
> > > > >
> > > > > now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am
setting
> up
> > > for
> > > > > african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go
> > outside
> > > > and
> > > > > pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse
off
> > all
> > > > the
> > > > > bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is
> there
> > > > > something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them
off
> > with
> > > > > water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> > > > > thanks for the help
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20575 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: hi there new member here with a question
It's hard to sex them as juvies, people buy more than they need and then
return the extra males as sex becomes apparent.



There aren't that many dwarf mbuna that are readily available, basically
Cynotilapia Afra, Pseudotropheus Demasoni and Pseudotropheus Saulosi. Of
those, saulosi are the least aggressive.



Demasoni you need to keep at least 12, they are very aggressive to each
other.



I suggested saulosi because males and females are equally attractive and
different colors, giving you some variety. And they hit two of the colors
you said you liked (blue with black bars, and solid orange-yellow). In
Saulosi, all juvies are orange-yellow, and the males turn blue as they
mature. Easy to sex!



I think the afra are on the more aggressive side and the females are not as
attractive as the males, but I don't have experience with them.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 10:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [SPAM] [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member
here with a question



i was planning on have the 3 of the same chichlids in the tank or
maybe 4 in hoping to get just 1 male as you have mentioned but i
guess when they r juvies they r hard to tell apart but when then r
grown up i was told 1 way of telling the difference is the top fin of
the female is more rounded and the male is more of a point
ok i guess i will have to stay away from the auratus maybe you guys
can give me a few more examples of some more chichlids that r a lil
more peaceful
i think donna did a good job explaining the hybrid fish to me
comparing it to dogs saying it would be more like a mutt
but like i said i will be keeping the same kind together
thanks again

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> If given the opportunity, many of these Mbuna species, being
closely
> related, will interbreed especially in a set up you are proposing --

> maintaining 2 species in the same tank, in close proximity. I
don't
> recommend your considering such a setup unless these two species
are
> more distantly related. This does not mean maintaining two Mbuna
> species together, even if they are Metriaclima and Labeotropheus
> (somewhat more distantly related), but perhaps having a species of
> Mbuna maintained with that of the Utaka's, if you have the room.
> Again, temperament must be considered here, as you can't mix M.
zebra
> with one of the Peacocks. The responsible Cichlid hobbyist won't
> allow such hybrids to happen, or if it does they are certainly not
> marketed, sold or traded. Otherwise, a (single) "species" tank
> should be considered, which most hobbyists prefer doing anyway. Ray
>
>



.


<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=8495157/grpspId=1705042752/msgId
=20574/stime=1169999099/nc1=4025369/nc2=2/nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20576 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Well clamped fins are definately a sign of illness. Is his body
distended or bloated in any way.
No. He's not bloated. Nor has he lost any weight as far as I can see, He just doesn't eat much. Sits at the bottem of the tank a lot.

You say he's loosing color, could it be velvet or ich?
I don't see any fuzzy layers on his body, so I don't think it's velvet. Although I may have to take to him with a torch.
Please define Ich?

When I took the photo of him, it shows him in detail really clearly, and I keep looking at his gills to see if there might be a bacterial infection. But like I said, i'm no expert. I don't know what to look for.

You'll really need to ask lots of questions here people


Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20577 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Thanks Cory.
I will. My day off work tomorrow, so I'll take a trip to the aquarium






Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20578 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
HI Lisa,
I am sorry to hear about your betta William...I looked up his symptoms in a betta book I have
"The Betta" by Mic and Maddy Harcove by Howell Books 1999
I read through the symptoms and this is the only one that gave clamped fins as one of the symptoms...along with the color loss...(also, its been my experience, that the average life span of a betta is only about one year..give or take a few months...however, I have been able to get them to live to over 3 yrs by decreasing thier food intake to only being fed small amounts about 2 times a week...I have had fish most of my 50 years and also had a tropical fish shop for a number of years..)
So Here is what the book said about the symptoms you describe...I wish it were better news...and I am not saying this is what he has...but the symptoms do point that way....this is for your information only...sincerely ...Mary

Tuberculosis
Occurrence: Infrequent
Symptoms: Dull-colored body, clamped fins, weight loss, ulcers and pop-eye in some cases.
Cause: Bacterial disease that is HIGHLY contagious.WARNING This disease can be transferred to Humans through contact with the infected areas.
Treatment: There is really no effective treatment of this disease, and in my opinion it is not worth risking your own health in order to try any remedy. Strict care must be used when handling infected animals! Plastic gloves are recommended when removing the infected betta from the aquarium.A betta that has this disease should be euthanized IMMEDIATELY .Do not leave the infected fish in the tank, because other tank mates will eat it and can develope the disease shortly after.



>>However my male (William) over the last week has become very
sluggish, and his colour which used to be viberant has gone a very
milky dull greyish colour. His fins on observation seems to be
clamped. (They're not rotting) And he sits at the bottem of his tank, <<


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20579 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Really??? hmm... how are they power grow ??? .. learn something new every day :)

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: No, the betta breeders cannot spend that much time and effort on
petstore bettas. They power grow them and ship them out by around 3-6
months.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20580 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Mary
Sighs.

My poor Will.
I did some research on the net as well, and discovered Betta's can get TB.
(Tuberculosis)

I dont over feed him. Maybe once to twice a day. Depends on how much he eats at once.

He's in his own tank, so I dont need to worry about isolating him.

So you think it's just time?


Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20581 From: alive_in_indy Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: New
Just wanted to say hello. I have recently joined this group. I have
been keeping fish for over 20 years. Due to lack of space at the
moment, I only have a 30 gallon tank running. :( My most recent
project is helping build a 75 Gallon that will be in a wall. Fun!
Anyway, just wanted to say hello ;).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20582 From: dmctjc Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Biowheel
I've been reading this list for a couple of months and learning a lot -
thanks guys! I've been neglecting my aquarium for a long time and
finally decided to get serious about upkeep. I bought a 5 gal tank for
a mean old medium size fish who won't die and moved him into it this
afternoon. I decided to give my 30 gal that only has a placo and
catfish left in it a good cleaning, then I'll start testing the water,
then I'll add fish to it; I'm reading and talking with some people
before adding new fish to the tank. When/if the old guy dies I plan to
get a Beta for the tank.

Finally to the question. After I vacuumed the 30 gal tank - which I
hadn't done in at least a year - I tried to restart the filter which
was at least 10 years old - and it wouldn't restart (bad timing; poor
fish). I ran to LFS to buy another. I've never had a filter with a
biowheel on it before. What does a biowheel do and what care does it
need?

Many thanks from a greatful lurker!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20583 From: mikewarr2 Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
Hi Lisa,
What is the temperature of your water? Bettas are best kept at 80
degrees Fahrenheit and can become quite sluggish at anything below
75 degrees. I have three Bettas of which I have two in Eclipse
aquariums with heaters and one still in a bowl. The ones in the
aquariums are very active with great color and are constantly
blowing bubble nests. On the other hand the one in the bowl (water
temp 68 degrees) spends most of his time sitting at the bottom
looking miserable... I plan on putting him in a 30 gallon community
tank that I'm in the process of setting up. Before I put the other
two in their aquariums they behaved just like the other one. One
problem I have noticed with keeping them at too low a temp is that
they seem more prone to digestive problems. To combat this you can
try occasionally feeding him one cooked pea cut up into bite size
pieces. Ultimately, I would suggest you place him in a container in
which you can install a small heater.
Mike,
Los Angeles

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, lisa lawless
<lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote:
>
> Please help me.
>
> His name is William.
>
> He's very pale, and just sits at the bottem of the tank.
> He hardly eats anymore, is very lathargic, I think he's
depressed,
> But he's well cared for. I love him dearly.
>
> He has no white spots, and his fins are not rotting, but they
look limp. 'Clamped' I think is the term?
>
>
> Lisa
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20584 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Hi Mike Re: Re: My sick Betta
Hi Mike
Water is at room temp. Never had an issue before with this in the twelve months i've had him. It's only in the last week or so, he's gone down hill.

Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20585 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
Hi there,
Hi, not knowing what kind of filter your old one was that stopped working....guessing that it was like a penguin over the back type??? if so...sometimes they just act like they are broken...and by taking out the tube and making sure its clean, and theres nothing obstructing the propeller, if it has one exposed...you can do a pumping up and down motion (priming) with the curved tube and see if that starts it...I have even been known to tap the motor casing and get them started that way... .I have almost thrown away the one I have now several times thinking it was a goner, but it surprises me everytime!....does any of that make any sense???

I have had Bio wheel filters and find they work well...the main thing I didnt like about them was they sometimes stop turning...even when not overly dirty...they still seemed to filter the water though but then they weren't working as designed....I still have one....but I'll let the this web site explain how and why it works...go here: http://www.aquariumfish.net/information/bio-wheel_filters.htm

BIO-Wheel Filters for Aquariums
The top picture shows the Eclipse Aquarium Hood on my Aquarium with the cover of the hood open. The red arrow points to the BIO-Wheel filter in the hood.


Here is a closer view of the BIO-Wheel filter with the folded pleats that increase the surface area to provide more living space for the bacteria. This BIO-Wheel is new and has not yet been populated by bacteria.







1. We recommend filters with BIO-Wheels such as the Penguin Filters, the Emperor Filters, and the Eclipse Aquarium Hoods. An Eclipse Aquarium Hood is shown above with its built-in BIO-Wheel.
All of these filters are made by Marineland Inc. This page contains an explanation of why we recommend filters with BIO-Wheels over all other filters for all freshwater aquariums.

At the bottom of this page is link to the page in Marineland's web site, which contains more information about their Penguin BIO-Wheel Filters. Click here now to buy a BIO-Wheel Filter.


2. Water Filtration in aquariums is very important to the health of the fish. Click here to go to another page in this web site with information about the three stages of Water Filtration.

3. Biological Filtration of aquarium water is performed by living bacteria. These bacteria are often called beneficial bacteria to distinguish them from the pathogenic bacteria that cause diseases. Click here for more information about biological filtration.
4. Biological Filters are generally devices that provide living space for the beneficial bacteria that perform the biological filtration that was mentioned in paragraph 3 above.
Most biological filters are limited by the amount of oxygen that is dissolved in the water, and oxygen is not very soluble in water. In fact, aquarium water rarely has more than 7 ppm (parts per million) of oxygen.

So biological filters, that rely completely on the water flowing through them to provide oxygen for their bacteria, are limited by the small amount of oxygen that's dissolved in the water.

Under gravel filters, canister filters, sponge filters, and especially fluidized bed filters are almost always starved for oxygen. They have lots of fish waste and lots of surface area with lots of bacteria, but the water in these filters lacks an abundant supply of oxygen for the bacteria.
So all of these types of filters are greatly limited by the small amount of oxygen in the water that flows through them.


5. BIO-Wheels, spinning in the air and water, are not limited by the amount of oxygen in the water. Air is 20% oxygen, that is 200,000 ppm compared with the 7 ppm in water, and the abundant oxygen in the air rapidly replenishes the oxygen at the surface of the water, such as on the surfaces of a BIO-Wheel. So the water on the surfaces of the BIO-Wheel is always very rich in oxygen.
The beneficial bacteria living on the BIO-Wheel are able to use the abundant oxygen in the water that's on the BIO-Wheel to rapidly oxidize the fish waste that's also dissolved in the water.


BIO-Wheels are Self-Cleaning. A BIO-Wheel in one of our Eclipse Aquarium Hoods has been running for many months without any maintenance.
Of course every few weeks we replace the filter pad, which is separated from the BIO-Wheel, and changing this filter pad takes only a minute or two.

Because the Filtering Media moves as the BIO-Wheels spin, the BIO-Wheels are able to adjust to a rapid increase in the amount of fish waste, as might happen in a fish store, when the aquariums are restocked from the fish wholesaler.
But filters, such as canister filters, with filtering media that does not move will not respond quickly to an increased bio-load, and the amount of waste in the water will increase for about two days, until the bacteria can respond to the increased bio-load.

BIO-Wheels use very little energy. A filter with a BIO-Wheel needs to pump the water only a few inches above the water level in the aquarium, and there is practically no backpressure, so filters with BIO-Wheels require very little energy.
Click here



----- Original Message -----
From: dmctjc
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 2:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Biowheel


I've been reading this list for a couple of months and learning a lot -
thanks guys! I've been neglecting my aquarium for a long time and
finally decided to get serious about upkeep. I bought a 5 gal tank for
a mean old medium size fish who won't die and moved him into it this
afternoon. I decided to give my 30 gal that only has a placo and
catfish left in it a good cleaning, then I'll start testing the water,
then I'll add fish to it; I'm reading and talking with some people
before adding new fish to the tank. When/if the old guy dies I plan to
get a Beta for the tank.

Finally to the question. After I vacuumed the 30 gal tank - which I
hadn't done in at least a year - I tried to restart the filter which
was at least 10 years old - and it wouldn't restart (bad timing; poor
fish). I ran to LFS to buy another. I've never had a filter with a
biowheel on it before. What does a biowheel do and what care does it
need?

Many thanks from a greatful lurker!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20586 From: Pickles Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Hi, you're welcome Lisa...
Its totally up to you on how you proceed....its just good to be armed with some knowledge...you know, I was wondering if by the color change you described, if it might not be the disease Velvet you are seeing?? It's described as your fish looking like they are sprinkled in gold dust? If so, its treated with Malachite green remedy and by adding 1 tablespoon aquarium salt to each 5 gallons of water.but if not...personally I would proceed as if he had TB...that's just my opinion....

What I meant about getting them to live longer was not meant to imply it might work for him now...its over their entire life span of only feeding a few times a week, not everyday...and that goes for the majority of the small community fish...but not all..as an example, I have a male long finned zebra danio that is going on almost 9 yrs old now...the average life span is nearer age 5, if I remember correctly...he came in a group of feeder danios and was the only long finned one of the bunch so we kept him... he is getting a bit hunched back but is still swimming! His fins are very long as well as his tail...but that tank only gets fed about once or twice a week!
Also, my kids and I raised gerbils and someone told me that by cutting back on their food they would live longer and sure enough most of ours lived 6 to 8 yrs..(in fact we had a pair that lived at the elementary school from my daughters first year in kindergarten till she was in the 6th grade..until we had to take them home..where they died sometime later) .....while the average life span is about 2 - 4 yrs..Anyone else have that experience?? ...Mary



----- Original Message -----
From: lisa lawless
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Thankyou Mary


Sighs.

My poor Will.
I did some research on the net as well, and discovered Betta's can get TB.
(Tuberculosis)

I dont over feed him. Maybe once to twice a day. Depends on how much he eats at once.

He's in his own tank, so I dont need to worry about isolating him.

So you think it's just time?

Lisa




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20587 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Any recomendations for uploading pics from a digital camera. I really would like you all to see him. He really is a beautiful boy.

The physical group site won't let me upload my picture. It keeps saying it doesn't support that format

Mary...He's not coverered in any gold dust, as you called it.


Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20588 From: Wendie Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Thankyou Mary
Upload your photo to your computer. Then rename it with a jpg ext.
Then upload it.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: lisa lawless
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 8:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Thankyou Mary




Any recomendations for uploading pics from a digital camera. I really would like you all to see him. He really is a beautiful boy.

The physical group site won't let me upload my picture. It keeps saying it doesn't support that format

Mary...He's not coverered in any gold dust, as you called it.

Lisa




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20589 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Wendie
Ooh, I'll try that when i get in from work. I'm on the wrong computer at the moment.
Thankyou Wendie




Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20590 From: Aaron Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: picture format (JPEGs only).
Hi Lisa,

I use Microsoft Paint to convert images from *.bmp and *.gif to *.jpg

---
If you have "Paint" on your computer, this is how to do it -

at the upper left corner - click on "File", then click on "Open" and
find the image you want and (double-)click on it

at the upper left corner - click on "File" again,
then click on "Save As",
a small window will "pop-up" -
at the bottom you will see "Save as type:" (scroll to select - JPEG)
then click "Save"

---

If you do not have Paint, here is another solution from MySpace.com,
edited for relevance

(http://collect.myspace.com/misc/faq.cfm?question=4)

Q. I'm trying to upload an image, and I am getting an error message...
what is wrong?

First, make sure the image you are attempting to upload is in ..
the format "YAHOO!" accepts (.jpg). Next, make sure the filename is
simple and short, with no ... funny characters. "Image.jpg" is a good
filnename "Me at the beach! drinking some Coors~~.jpg" is probably not
going to work. ... If none of these things work, it's possible that
the image is corrupted.

Luckily there is an easy solution. Go to http://www.download.com/ and
download a copy of the software program IrfanView. IT'S FREE and you
can use it to resize images ... or resave images that may be
corrupted. Once you have downloaded and installed IrfanView, simply
run the program, open your .gif, or ".bmp" image, and resave it as
another version (example: in IrfanView, open file named pic01".gif",
and resave it as pic01b.jpg). Then, simply return to MySpace and
upload your newly resaved image.

---

Hope that Helps,
Aaron


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, lisa lawless
<lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote:
> Any recomendations for uploading pics from a digital camera. I
really would like you all to see him. He really is a beautiful boy.
>
> The physical group site won't let me upload my picture. It keeps
saying it doesn't support that format ...
> Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20591 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Thankyou Aaron
Thankyou Aaron. I have paint on the laptop, so I can use that

Lisa





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20592 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: My sick Betta
What size tank is he in? Does he have other tank mates? How often do you do water changes?

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: Aquatic Life <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 5:10:39 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My sick Betta













Please help me.



His name is William.



He's very pale, and just sits at the bottem of the tank.

He hardly eats anymore, is very lathargic, I think he's depressed,

But he's well cared for. I love him dearly.



He has no white spots, and his fins are not rotting, but they look limp. 'Clamped' I think is the term?



Lisa



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20593 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
They do that with all fish really.

----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 8:46:55 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!













No, the betta breeders cannot spend that much time and effort on

petstore bettas. They power grow them and ship them out by around 3-6

months.














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20594 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: ...Joseph...
I couldn't tell you exactly what size his tank is without looking at the box it came in.
Again, i'm at work at the moment so i will tell you when i get home.
But it's just a standard betta tank baught from a chain pet store.

He's by himself in the tank. No room for anything else



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20595 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
Fish are fast grower naturally. What slows the growth of fish is the tanks they are in.

----- Original Message ----
From: FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:15:28 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!













Really??? hmm... how are they power grow ??? .. learn something new every day :)



cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ hotmail.com> wrote: No, the betta breeders cannot spend that much time and effort on

petstore bettas. They power grow them and ship them out by around 3-6

months.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20596 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Well you have to ask some questions to rule out other things. Anyways have you changed the water at all? What you can do is get some fresh water salt and put a teaspoon level into it. that would fight any infection and kill off any fungus. Does it look fluffy like? You can also get a bacterial medication as it sounds like what he has if it isn't fluffy like. Otherwise if it is fluffy it is fungus and there is medications for that.

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 10:34:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] ...Joseph...















I couldn't tell you exactly what size his tank is without looking at the box it came in.

Again, i'm at work at the moment so i will tell you when i get home.

But it's just a standard betta tank baught from a chain pet store.



He's by himself in the tank. No room for anything else





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20597 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
I changed the water Tuesday just gone
Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm

Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks if I can


Lisa





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20598 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
I have 2 aureatus...a male and a female...they do ok by themselves. I had 4
others and they all died (most likely killed). I don;t know what sex they
were...probably males.

Eric

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Saturday, 27 January 2007 13:10
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question



Auratus are considered by many to be THE most aggressive mbuna and those who
have kept them recommend keeping them with a single male to at least five
females in a tank no smaller than a 55 gallon. Yellow labs are a little
bigger and like to be in a group of at least six, IMO you don’t have room
for them in a 29 gallon tank. There are several mbuna species that are blue
with black bars. Is the 29 gallon tank you have 36” long?

Most would recommend a minimum of 40 gallons for a mbuna tank. I had a 40
gallon with Demasoni and Yellow Labs in it for about a year, and they were
killing each other off one-by-one, so I got a 125 gallon tank, it’s six feet
long so everyone can have his own territory.

Mbuna are harem fish, you need to keep at least 3 females for every male,
and aggression is minimized if you limit to one male per species.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question

thanks for the help there
i only plan on having 3 maybe 4 of them in the 29 gallon tank i am
thinking of putting the yellow ones in that have the black and white
horizontal stripes on the top half of there body i think they r
called aurtus or something like that or some lab yellow ones or i
have no idea what the other ones r called i like but they r blue
with vertical black or dark blue stripes they usually have them with
other chichlids at LFS marked as mixed african chichlids but i
believe all 3 of those chichlids stay fairly small in size under 5
inches correct me if i am wrong but that is what i have been reading
on alot of websites about them again thanks again for everyone s help
this is by far the best aquarium group on yahoo i have joined

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> A 29 gallon tank is pretty small for African cichlids, are you doing
> shellies? How long and how wide is the tank?
>
>
>
> You can use rocks you collect yourself if you know enough about
minerals to
> avoid those containing metal which can be toxic to fish. For
example, avoid
> any rocks with rust spots as they may contain iron. Scrub them
with a wire
> brush making sure to remove all traces of algae or lichens, and
then run
> them through your dishwasher on Sanitize and without adding any
soap.
>
>
>
> I have a 125 gallon tank with mbuna and 250 pounds of rocks
prepared just
> this way!
>
>
>
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, January 25, 2007 2:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] hi there new member here with a
question
>
>
>
> first off i have been doing aquariums for about 5 years now but i
> would really only say about 4 years really seeing for the first
year
> or so i only had 3 fish(black phantom tetras) and i kept them in a
> large plastic bowl this bowl was a bowl that had cheeseballs in
them
> that you can purchase at a local grocery store and was filtered
with
> a penplax air pump and mini filter
>
> right now i have set up and running a 90 gallon saltwater with live
> rock and fish
> 2 percula clowns, 2 yellow tail blue damsels, royal gramma, green
> chromis and my favorite is my keyhole angelfish
>
> and i also have a 55 gallon freshwater which houses a mix of about
10
> tetras, 1 silver dollar, 1 rainbowfish the 1 that is half blue and
> half yellow, and 1 bala shark
>
> now to my question i have a 29 gallon tank that i am setting up for
> african chichlids and i need some rock for caves can i go outside
and
> pick up some rocks clean them with bleach and then rinse off all
the
> bleach with water and then put them in the aquarium or is there
> something wrong with doing this or can i just rinse them off with
> water, this would be my first chichlid tank
> thanks for the help
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20599 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Betta William
Here goes. Again.

Lisa





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20600 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: Betta William
Kay! I give up!. I changed the pics to Jpeg format and it's still not happening.
The groups configeration says it disables any pictures, yet you all seem to have pictures in the photo section. Where am I going wrong?

lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote:
Here goes. Again.

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Lisa





Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20601 From: Lisa Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Finally! It Worked!
'Lisa's William' Photo's FINALLY uploaded. Please Check them out
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20602 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/28/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
He could of just gotten a bacterial infection ill get something for that. Try Maroxy and then get some Freshwater salt. Add a level of teaspoon of that.


----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 11:31:39 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] ...Joseph...













I changed the water Tuesday just gone

Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm



Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks if I can



Lisa









Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20603 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Betta William
Are you trying to put it into the photo section of the group? If so your computer settings could be set as a safety measure not to share files from your computer. What you can try doing is send it via email to the group by replying to this email and adding it as an attachment. If that don't work its defiantly something to do with your computer. Good Luck.

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 1:59:06 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Betta William













Kay! I give up!. I changed the pics to Jpeg format and it's still not happening.

The groups configeration says it disables any pictures, yet you all seem to have pictures in the photo section. Where am I going wrong?



lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@ yahoo.com. au> wrote:

Here goes. Again.



Lisa



Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Lisa









Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20604 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
I wanted to add to that "lazy" email that when they are lying on the ground and then you try feeding them or you put a mirror close to them and they don't move as much or flair up to the mirror then I would worry about the lying on the ground thing.

----- Original Message ----
From: Lisa <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 2:02:22 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Finally! It Worked!













'Lisa's William' Photo's FINALLY uploaded. Please Check them out














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20605 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
Well lying on the bottom is something Betta do as they are a lazy fish. He does look a little whitish but I'm not certain if thats his regular color. If not add a drop of Maroxy and a leveled teaspoon of salt. The salt would give him vitamins. Do you feed Betta food? They like a high protein diet and the Betta diet should be what you feed him. Not tropical flakes.

----- Original Message ----
From: Lisa <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 2:02:22 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Finally! It Worked!













'Lisa's William' Photo's FINALLY uploaded. Please Check them out














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20606 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
I tried the mirror thing just now, He seems to want to flare, but just doesn't seem to have the energy



Lisa





Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20607 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not
enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue

> I changed the water Tuesday just gone
> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm
>
> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks
if I can
>
>
> Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20608 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
He does look unhappy. Try the salt in the water (1 tsp to one gallon
of water) and his bowl looks pretty boring. Imagine being stuck in a
plain white bathroom all day every day. Maybe some stimulation? A
plant (will need proper care, too), a decoration, some bubbles to play
in...I always put my bettas in fully planted tanks, usually with other
fish or shrimp or large snails to keep them occupied.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20609 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!
that makes sense

Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote: Fish are fast grower naturally. What slows the growth of fish is the tanks they are in.

----- Original Message ----
From: FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 6:15:28 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Sick Male Betta. Please help!

Really??? hmm... how are they power grow ??? .. learn something new every day :)

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ hotmail.com> wrote: No, the betta breeders cannot spend that much time and effort on

petstore bettas. They power grow them and ship them out by around 3-6

months.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20610 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: thanks to all who helped me
i have searched some more on the net about african chichlids to find
less agressive african chichlids and what i found was chichlids from
lake victoria, malawi, and tanganyika and these are the fish that
from what the site i was looking at were less agressive
from lake victoria and malawi were
aulonocara
chilotilpia
labidochromis
otopharnx

and lake tanganyika
altolamprodogus
eretmodus
julidochromis
cyrrichromis
ectodus
opthalmotilapia
paracyprichromis
spathodus
tangicodus
xenotilapia

i am really having a hard time finding out much about these chichlids
except for the lemon yellow labidochromis can anyone help me with any
of the others i have mentioned or maybe some pictures of them or a
website that will tell me more of them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20611 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Finally! It Worked!
You might of caught it in time if there is something wrong with him. Ill still do what I suggested it wont hurt anything. What foods do you feed and how much?

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 3:32:45 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Finally! It Worked!













I tried the mirror thing just now, He seems to want to flare, but just doesn't seem to have the energy



Lisa









Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20612 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Sorry in the middle of a few Betta ?s right now. I thought she did say it was a small filtered one gallon tank. But yeah they are happier and healthier in one of those. Then you can add things to his environment like plants or a little cave structure to go in.

----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 7:14:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...













If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not

enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue



> I changed the water Tuesday just gone

> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm

>

> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks

if I can

>

>

> Lisa














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20613 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
Thanks for the explanation. The new filter runs a lot quieter, too. The
cleaned tank looks great today and the fish in both tanks look healthy.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Biowheel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20614 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: Biowheel
The tank is probably going to go through another cycle as the Bio Wheel still needs to develop the beneficial bacteria.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: drollier@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 11:42 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Biowheel


Thanks for the explanation. The new filter runs a lot quieter, too. The
cleaned tank looks great today and the fish in both tanks look healthy.

Donna

.

________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20615 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That they dont like it

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not
enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue

> I changed the water Tuesday just gone
> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm
>
> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks
if I can
>
>
> Lisa






Lisa





Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20616 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Lisa,
I saw the pic of your William......he is beautiful.....I hope all of the ideas are helping you save him. I have 2 bettas....both in filter situations....one of them has a downtube and Scooter loves playing around it and sometimes will stay hugging it for hours.....Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 5:24:06 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...

I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That they dont like it

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ hotmail.com> wrote: If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not
enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue

> I changed the water Tuesday just gone
> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm
>
> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks
if I can
>
>
> Lisa

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20617 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
From what I've read it's not filters they don't like, it's strong water current. I've got a Betta in a 1.5g with a small filter that I turned way down. When I switched him from his little bowl to the tank, he initially had problems with the filter, after turning the flow down a bit he was fine.

Good luck!

----- Original Message -----
From: lisa lawless
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 2:24 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...


I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That they dont like it

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote: If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not
enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue

> I changed the water Tuesday just gone
> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm
>
> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks
if I can
>
>
> Lisa

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20618 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: thanks to all who helped me
I don’t think you have all the spellings right, but try reviewing the
profiles on a website such a cichlid-forum.com which specializes in
cichlids. For example, I think the spelling for the first Tang you list
below is altolamprologus.



The labidochromis are less aggressive, but they are not dwarf.



I did not know you would consider Tangs, but Julidochromis stay pretty small
and you could have a pair in a 29 gallon I think. They would reproduce and
I’ve heard of people having several generations living together. There is a
smaller one I particularly like…Julidochromis Marlieri (or Transcriptus)
Gombe…supposed to mature at about 3”.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 12:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] thanks to all who helped me



i have searched some more on the net about african chichlids to find
less agressive african chichlids and what i found was chichlids from
lake victoria, malawi, and tanganyika and these are the fish that
from what the site i was looking at were less agressive
from lake victoria and malawi were
aulonocara
chilotilpia
labidochromis
otopharnx

and lake tanganyika
altolamprodogus
eretmodus
julidochromis
cyrrichromis
ectodus
opthalmotilapia
paracyprichromis
spathodus
tangicodus
xenotilapia

i am really having a hard time finding out much about these chichlids
except for the lemon yellow labidochromis can anyone help me with any
of the others i have mentioned or maybe some pictures of them or a
website that will tell me more of them





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20619 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Hi Cory
Hi Cory.
Thankyou.
Just got back from the aquarium everyone. The man there did a water test and had a look at the photo I had taken.

The water test revealed that the ammonium level was too high! I in effect was killing him with love, by changing the water too often. I’m under strict orders to only clean once every 4 weeks, and even then only do a half tank change.

Thankyou everyone so much for your kind support and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.

Regards


Lisa





Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20620 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
I have a pair of the Julidochromis Marlieri in a 29 gallon and they are producing like crazy.

I have yet to remove any of the offspring and I think they are on their 3rd or 4th generation of Fry. I do need to remove a bunch to lower the bioload, but for now it is entertaining watching all these fish swimming belly side down to a rock, no matter if they are upside down or not.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: djransome@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 5:38 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] thanks to all who helped me


I don’t think you have all the spellings right, but try reviewing the
profiles on a website such a cichlid-forum.com which specializes in
cichlids. For example, I think the spelling for the first Tang you list
below is altolamprologus.

The labidochromis are less aggressive, but they are not dwarf.

I did not know you would consider Tangs, but Julidochromis stay pretty small
and you could have a pair in a 29 gallon I think. They would reproduce and
I’ve heard of people having several generations living together. There is a
smaller one I particularly like…Julidochromis Marlieri (or Transcriptus)
Gombe…supposed to mature at about 3”.

.

________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20621 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
HI Steve,

If you go with Lake Victoria cichlids keep in mind most(not all) of the females appear the same regardless of the different colors of their male counter parts. You could get unintentional hybrids this way.

There is a Victorian cichlid group on Yahoo groups, you can ask there.

Have you looked in to Kribensis or as I believe they are called now Pelvicachromis, West African cichlids, failry mellow? I think someone already mentioned that though.

Sorry I cannot give you any straight answers on what the fish you listed will behave like. I have a mish mash of cichlids in a couple 55 gallon tanks, one tank may fall into the overstocked category and suppress aggresion like others have mentioned. One tank has Hap Obliquidens(they have a new name now) from Victoria, Demasoni, and some afra as well as a few julidochromis and a couple synodontis catfish. It is a very active tank with plenty of rocks and broken flower pots for hiding, I do not see any torn fins or dead fish.

Another 55 gallon has some rusty cichlids, yellow labs, metriclima red zebra, afras, and some others that I lost track of. I don't see any torn fins or body parts.

Mike

PS have looked into the Peacock cichlids? They have some real pretty ones.


-----Original Message-----
From: steve01@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 9:11 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] thanks to all who helped me


i have searched some more on the net about african chichlids to find
less agressive african chichlids and what i found was chichlids from
lake victoria, malawi, and tanganyika and these are the fish that
from what the site i was looking at were less agressive
from lake victoria and malawi were
aulonocara
chilotilpia
labidochromis
otopharnx

and lake tanganyika
altolamprodogus
eretmodus
julidochromis
cyrrichromis
ectodus
opthalmotilapia
paracyprichromis
spathodus
tangicodus
xenotilapia

i am really having a hard time finding out much about these chichlids
except for the lemon yellow labidochromis can anyone help me with any
of the others i have mentioned or maybe some pictures of them or a
website that will tell me more of them



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20622 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
not looked at the peacock ones yet but i m going to do that now along
with what others have mentions and also check out that chichlid-forum
the donna told me about
just 1 more question i read that the ph for the tang african
chichlids has to be a lil bit higher then other africans is that
correct also
thanks




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> HI Steve,
>
> If you go with Lake Victoria cichlids keep in mind most(not all) of
the females appear the same regardless of the different colors of
their male counter parts. You could get unintentional hybrids this
way.
>
> There is a Victorian cichlid group on Yahoo groups, you can ask
there.
>
> Have you looked in to Kribensis or as I believe they are called now
Pelvicachromis, West African cichlids, failry mellow? I think
someone already mentioned that though.
>
> Sorry I cannot give you any straight answers on what the fish you
listed will behave like. I have a mish mash of cichlids in a couple
55 gallon tanks, one tank may fall into the overstocked category and
suppress aggresion like others have mentioned. One tank has Hap
Obliquidens(they have a new name now) from Victoria, Demasoni, and
some afra as well as a few julidochromis and a couple synodontis
catfish. It is a very active tank with plenty of rocks and broken
flower pots for hiding, I do not see any torn fins or dead fish.
>
> Another 55 gallon has some rusty cichlids, yellow labs, metriclima
red zebra, afras, and some others that I lost track of. I don't see
any torn fins or body parts.
>
> Mike
>
> PS have looked into the Peacock cichlids? They have some real
pretty ones.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve01@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 9:11 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] thanks to all who helped me
>
>
> i have searched some more on the net about african chichlids to
find
> less agressive african chichlids and what i found was chichlids
from
> lake victoria, malawi, and tanganyika and these are the fish that
> from what the site i was looking at were less agressive
> from lake victoria and malawi were
> aulonocara
> chilotilpia
> labidochromis
> otopharnx
>
> and lake tanganyika
> altolamprodogus
> eretmodus
> julidochromis
> cyrrichromis
> ectodus
> opthalmotilapia
> paracyprichromis
> spathodus
> tangicodus
> xenotilapia
>
> i am really having a hard time finding out much about these
chichlids
> except for the lemon yellow labidochromis can anyone help me with
any
> of the others i have mentioned or maybe some pictures of them or a
> website that will tell me more of them
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20623 From: AquaticLife Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Are you on the Map?
Hi All,

If you have not visited the group page recently, please check out the
new look ~

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/

The map was added in December. It automatically adds your location so
we can see where the members and visitors are from. So far, about
half of the group is on the map.

You can see the same map on the MySpace pages as well ~

MySpace URL: http://www.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup

Group URL: http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife



And Please ~ Answer the Poll Question Created on Dec 13, 2006 ~

How long have you been interested in Aquatic Life? ><))))º>


http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls



Thank You
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20624 From: steve Date: 1/29/2007
Subject: Re: thanks to all who helped me
not looked at the peacock ones yet but i m going to do that now along
with what others have mentions and also check out that chichlid-forum
the donna told me about
just 1 more question i read that the ph for the tang african
chichlids has to be a lil bit higher then other africans is that
correct also
thanks




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> HI Steve,
>
> If you go with Lake Victoria cichlids keep in mind most(not all) of
the females appear the same regardless of the different colors of
their male counter parts. You could get unintentional hybrids this
way.
>
> There is a Victorian cichlid group on Yahoo groups, you can ask
there.
>
> Have you looked in to Kribensis or as I believe they are called now
Pelvicachromis, West African cichlids, failry mellow? I think
someone already mentioned that though.
>
> Sorry I cannot give you any straight answers on what the fish you
listed will behave like. I have a mish mash of cichlids in a couple
55 gallon tanks, one tank may fall into the overstocked category and
suppress aggresion like others have mentioned. One tank has Hap
Obliquidens(they have a new name now) from Victoria, Demasoni, and
some afra as well as a few julidochromis and a couple synodontis
catfish. It is a very active tank with plenty of rocks and broken
flower pots for hiding, I do not see any torn fins or dead fish.
>
> Another 55 gallon has some rusty cichlids, yellow labs, metriclima
red zebra, afras, and some others that I lost track of. I don't see
any torn fins or body parts.
>
> Mike
>
> PS have looked into the Peacock cichlids? They have some real
pretty ones.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve01@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 9:11 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] thanks to all who helped me
>
>
> i have searched some more on the net about african chichlids to
find
> less agressive african chichlids and what i found was chichlids
from
> lake victoria, malawi, and tanganyika and these are the fish that
> from what the site i was looking at were less agressive
> from lake victoria and malawi were
> aulonocara
> chilotilpia
> labidochromis
> otopharnx
>
> and lake tanganyika
> altolamprodogus
> eretmodus
> julidochromis
> cyrrichromis
> ectodus
> opthalmotilapia
> paracyprichromis
> spathodus
> tangicodus
> xenotilapia
>
> i am really having a hard time finding out much about these
chichlids
> except for the lemon yellow labidochromis can anyone help me with
any
> of the others i have mentioned or maybe some pictures of them or a
> website that will tell me more of them
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20625 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
The filter that is in the small one gallons are undergravel filters that are safe. The other type sometimes may suck them up.

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 5:24:06 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...













I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That they dont like it



cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ hotmail.com> wrote: If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not

enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue



> I changed the water Tuesday just gone

> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm

>

> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks

if I can

>

>

> Lisa



Lisa









Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20626 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Cory
Hi Lisa he might assume you have a filter in the tank also. That ruling usually applies to filtered tanks. Also to help you with ammonia is to cut back on feeding. I would feed him three times a week two pellets each time.

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 8:43:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi Cory













Hi Cory.

Thankyou.

Just got back from the aquarium everyone. The man there did a water test and had a look at the photo I had taken.



The water test revealed that the ammonium level was too high! I in effect was killing him with love, by changing the water too often. I’m under strict orders to only clean once every 4 weeks, and even then only do a half tank change.



Thankyou everyone so much for your kind support and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.



Regards



Lisa









Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20627 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: thanks Donna
for that website you gave cichlid-forum.com
very helpful found everything i need to know about cichlids
for the time being anyways
maybe 1 day when all my tetras r gone i will change my 55gallon into
a cichlid tank
i know i will still have to stick with somewhat less agressive
cichlids but it will still give them some more room
my 29G tank has lots of rocks and caves so then should be happy in
the mean timei bet at least 50lbs of rock in the 29G tank

and Thank you
to everyone else too
for the help

this is a great group

i just hope we can keep spammers away they ruin clubs so fast with
all kinds of posts that no one cares about

has anyone checked out my pics i posted in the photo section either
let me know what u think of my other tanks

i know the saltwater tank needs more live rock but i don t have any
big fish so really i don t need it but more live rock will make it
look alot nicer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20628 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Told by whom? Someone from petsmart? All my bettas are in tanks with
filters, and they frequently play in the flow. They must have a nice
still area or two to relax in, but they appreciate clean water and a
bit of flow as well.

> I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That
they dont like it
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20629 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: LFS
I'm still doing some homework before bring some new finny friends home. I don't know any others who have an aquarium who live reasonably close to me. So, how do I select a good LFS? There are a couple of choices nearby. I know better than to buy at wallyworld - I glance at the tanks when I'm buying cat food there and cringe. I thought PetsMart was safe if I looked carefully at the fish and paid attention to what I bought.

Thanks for the help!

Donna

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20630 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Cory
Oh, Lisa, what wonderful news......now you know what's wrong and you can fix the ammonia thing. William will be so happy and so will you. I'm really glad you were able to save him.....William is my husband's name.....kinda made it a personal thing! Make sure you post a pic of him when he's all better and back to his true colors. Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 8:43:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hi Cory

Hi Cory.
Thankyou.
Just got back from the aquarium everyone. The man there did a water test and had a look at the photo I had taken.

The water test revealed that the ammonium level was too high! I in effect was killing him with love, by changing the water too often. I’m under strict orders to only clean once every 4 weeks, and even then only do a half tank change.

Thankyou everyone so much for your kind support and suggestions. It is very much appreciated.

Regards

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20631 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
not really sure where you live at but as far as chain pet stores
i have purchased 4 saltwater fishabout 2 1/2 - 3 years ago and still
alive and still healthy and that was at Petco and some of the people
at the Petco where i live at actually have a clue to what they are
talking about also even though none of them sell saltwater fish
anymore not only that but they have free print-outs of fish that your
interested in and a bio of them they also seem to have a decent
selection of the more common fish like cichlids, tetras, barbs,
mollies, guppies, a few algae eater, and a few fresh water sharks
like ballas and red tails or rainbowsharks
now if your looking for more rare fish then u have to visit a LFS and
if your from south west pennsylvania i can recommend wet pets and
friends in Mcmurry PA, elmers aquarium in monroeville, seahorse i
believe is the name in allison park i have only been there 2 or 3
times but they seem to know what they are talking about the store is
about an hour or so away from me though, those 3 places are with in a
half hour from pittsburgh pa i go to the wet pets and friends alot
they are a lil bit pricey but the people there are great and that is
the closest 1 to me
as far as supplies go i think i am gonna be ordering alot more things
from drs foster and smith off the internet there prices seem to be
hell of alot better then anyone elses like for heaters, filters and
media, air and water pumps, and water chemicals
except for water conditioner
i was introduced to a new conditioner at wet pets called genenis and
you only use 1 drop per gallon and the bottle claims there is enough
to treat 1000 gallons and it only cost me about 3 dollars
has anyone else ever heard of it or use it i have already used it on
my freshwater tank and the fish don t seem to have any problem with
it
talk to you later


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> I'm still doing some homework before bring some new finny friends
home. I don't know any others who have an aquarium who live
reasonably close to me. So, how do I select a good LFS? There are a
couple of choices nearby. I know better than to buy at wallyworld - I
glance at the tanks when I'm buying cat food there and cringe. I
thought PetsMart was safe if I looked carefully at the fish and paid
attention to what I bought.
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> Donna
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20632 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
oh just forgot to mention if you do live in southwest pa i would stay
away from pet supplies plus in the bridgeville area now i would not
say to stay away from all of them but really i would stay away from
that 1 unless you go there at night time 1 guy that runs the fish
department or the head guy he thinks he is the top dog shXX and he
talks down to his customers alot even then other employees don t like
him and it s also funny cause all of the pet supplies plus employees
from other locations know of him
BEWARE lol
oh there is also a smaller shop called animal crackers in bridgeville
i have only been in there once or twice it might be worth checking
out if ur in the area it is right behind the wendy s on RT 50 in the
greater southern shopping center now i haven t been to this place in
at least a 2 years
also on RT 51 there is a shop called atlantis he is very pricy i
think i stopped in there a few times to check out there saltwater
fish 25 dollars for green chromis that are somewhere about an inch to
inch and a half in size
later

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> not really sure where you live at but as far as chain pet stores
> i have purchased 4 saltwater fishabout 2 1/2 - 3 years ago and
still
> alive and still healthy and that was at Petco and some of the
people
> at the Petco where i live at actually have a clue to what they are
> talking about also even though none of them sell saltwater fish
> anymore not only that but they have free print-outs of fish that
your
> interested in and a bio of them they also seem to have a decent
> selection of the more common fish like cichlids, tetras, barbs,
> mollies, guppies, a few algae eater, and a few fresh water sharks
> like ballas and red tails or rainbowsharks
> now if your looking for more rare fish then u have to visit a LFS
and
> if your from south west pennsylvania i can recommend wet pets and
> friends in Mcmurry PA, elmers aquarium in monroeville, seahorse i
> believe is the name in allison park i have only been there 2 or 3
> times but they seem to know what they are talking about the store
is
> about an hour or so away from me though, those 3 places are with in
a
> half hour from pittsburgh pa i go to the wet pets and friends alot
> they are a lil bit pricey but the people there are great and that
is
> the closest 1 to me
> as far as supplies go i think i am gonna be ordering alot more
things
> from drs foster and smith off the internet there prices seem to be
> hell of alot better then anyone elses like for heaters, filters and
> media, air and water pumps, and water chemicals
> except for water conditioner
> i was introduced to a new conditioner at wet pets called genenis
and
> you only use 1 drop per gallon and the bottle claims there is
enough
> to treat 1000 gallons and it only cost me about 3 dollars
> has anyone else ever heard of it or use it i have already used it
on
> my freshwater tank and the fish don t seem to have any problem with
> it
> talk to you later
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm still doing some homework before bring some new finny friends
> home. I don't know any others who have an aquarium who live
> reasonably close to me. So, how do I select a good LFS? There are a
> couple of choices nearby. I know better than to buy at wallyworld -
I
> glance at the tanks when I'm buying cat food there and cringe. I
> thought PetsMart was safe if I looked carefully at the fish and
paid
> attention to what I bought.
> >
> > Thanks for the help!
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20633 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Hey, I just wanted to say I checked out your pics Steve, and they
look great. I am currently researching before I start my first
saltwater tank. I had a 55 gal given to me recently and I am looking
for a stand to put it on. I am trying to decide on which fish before
I start gathering supplies(heaters, filters, etc.). Does anyone have
an opinion on skimmers? Or wavemakers for coral? Are they necessary
for a saltwater reef set up? I am thinking I am going to go with
fish from a certian region and try to duplicate the natural
enviornment. Now, if only I could decide which fish I like the best.
LOL


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> has anyone checked out my pics i posted in the photo section
either
> let me know what u think of my other tanks
>
> i know the saltwater tank needs more live rock but i don t have
any
> big fish so really i don t need it but more live rock will make it
> look alot nicer
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20634 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
hi there
thanks for checking out the pics
i am running my 90G saltwater tank off a refugium that i purchased
off this website www.aquauniverse.com i got the 1 that says 200
gallons but if you click on the link and read about it it says 150
gallons i m not sure how they got it mixed up i got the whole set up
for under 300 US dollars that included shipping what all came with
the kit was the tank itself, a very very large protein skimmer, 2
pumps 1 for return and 1 for the skimmer, a grow light for the
refugium it is a little tricky to set up at first cause the plumbing
they give u are weird sizes but take off any plumbing they give you
and start from scratch and you will also need a ballvalve for the
proper water flow but i think i still got everything i need for under
300 dollars and i have had this kit for almost a year now and it
works great i would consider getting it if i was you cause you will
probably do the same thing i did i started with a 55G saltwater but
realized the limitations of what you can put in it you will be
limited to smaller fish like damsel, clowns, dwarfangels, chromis
maybe a butterfly as long as you don t keep much else (since this is
your first saltwater stay away from the butterflies at first) with it
i would stay away from damsels though i made the mistake of getting
them and for little fish they are pretty big bullies they are fun to
water cause the are fast and playful just really can t put much with
them
also get some live rock definatly it helps with filtering and makes
nice caves for for fish to hide and finally good for grazing for some
fish
for a heater i use marineland vise-therm stealth heater on my 55
freshwater tank i have a 200watt heater that heats good so it should
be for saltwater also
oh don t forget your UV sterilizer either go with the Turbo Twist i
think the 3x is what i use on my 90 gallon tank buy it a
drsfosterandsmith.com it is the cheapest i have found it
for the filtering if u can t afford the refugium i mentioned i used
an emperor 400 on my 55gal when it was saltwater but then u have to
worry about buying new filter media with the water changes i think if
you would get the emperor 400 only change half the media at each
water change to keep some of the benifical bacteria just remember
what 1 you changed
as far as fish i like angels the most i have a keyhole angelfish
which is considered a dwarf angelfish and for you in a 55G tank you
would want to stick with a dwarf also i think the flame angel is a
very nice looking fish maybe get a small school of some kinda chromis
the most common 1 s i see in stores are the green chromis aka blue
green chromis
one last tip for you let your tank cycle for the very least 1 month i
think i let mine go for almost 2 months before adding fish
while i am not a pro at saltwater yet i have managed to keep 2
percula clowns and 2 yellow tail blue damsels from petco for over 2
years now going on to close to 3 years now
i hope that helped


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
<mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
>
> Hey, I just wanted to say I checked out your pics Steve, and they
> look great. I am currently researching before I start my first
> saltwater tank. I had a 55 gal given to me recently and I am
looking
> for a stand to put it on. I am trying to decide on which fish
before
> I start gathering supplies(heaters, filters, etc.). Does anyone
have
> an opinion on skimmers? Or wavemakers for coral? Are they necessary
> for a saltwater reef set up? I am thinking I am going to go with
> fish from a certian region and try to duplicate the natural
> enviornment. Now, if only I could decide which fish I like the
best.
> LOL
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> > has anyone checked out my pics i posted in the photo section
> either
> > let me know what u think of my other tanks
> >
> > i know the saltwater tank needs more live rock but i don t have
> any
> > big fish so really i don t need it but more live rock will make
it
> > look alot nicer
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20635 From: steve Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
oh yes i almost forgot get your live rock from ebay if there are a
few suppliers on there i forget what 1 i got mine from but i got
something like 40lbs for i believe it was about 130 US dollars i
think it is was just over 3 US dollars a pound and i believe that
included the shipping too or maybe about 150 US dollars with the
shipping still under 4 US dollars a pound most local fish stores sell
it for about 7 dollars a pound you will save alot of money


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> hi there
> thanks for checking out the pics
> i am running my 90G saltwater tank off a refugium that i purchased
> off this website www.aquauniverse.com i got the 1 that says 200
> gallons but if you click on the link and read about it it says 150
> gallons i m not sure how they got it mixed up i got the whole set
up
> for under 300 US dollars that included shipping what all came with
> the kit was the tank itself, a very very large protein skimmer, 2
> pumps 1 for return and 1 for the skimmer, a grow light for the
> refugium it is a little tricky to set up at first cause the
plumbing
> they give u are weird sizes but take off any plumbing they give you
> and start from scratch and you will also need a ballvalve for the
> proper water flow but i think i still got everything i need for
under
> 300 dollars and i have had this kit for almost a year now and it
> works great i would consider getting it if i was you cause you will
> probably do the same thing i did i started with a 55G saltwater but
> realized the limitations of what you can put in it you will be
> limited to smaller fish like damsel, clowns, dwarfangels, chromis
> maybe a butterfly as long as you don t keep much else (since this
is
> your first saltwater stay away from the butterflies at first) with
it
> i would stay away from damsels though i made the mistake of getting
> them and for little fish they are pretty big bullies they are fun
to
> water cause the are fast and playful just really can t put much
with
> them
> also get some live rock definatly it helps with filtering and makes
> nice caves for for fish to hide and finally good for grazing for
some
> fish
> for a heater i use marineland vise-therm stealth heater on my 55
> freshwater tank i have a 200watt heater that heats good so it
should
> be for saltwater also
> oh don t forget your UV sterilizer either go with the Turbo Twist i
> think the 3x is what i use on my 90 gallon tank buy it a
> drsfosterandsmith.com it is the cheapest i have found it
> for the filtering if u can t afford the refugium i mentioned i used
> an emperor 400 on my 55gal when it was saltwater but then u have to
> worry about buying new filter media with the water changes i think
if
> you would get the emperor 400 only change half the media at each
> water change to keep some of the benifical bacteria just remember
> what 1 you changed
> as far as fish i like angels the most i have a keyhole angelfish
> which is considered a dwarf angelfish and for you in a 55G tank you
> would want to stick with a dwarf also i think the flame angel is a
> very nice looking fish maybe get a small school of some kinda
chromis
> the most common 1 s i see in stores are the green chromis aka blue
> green chromis
> one last tip for you let your tank cycle for the very least 1 month
i
> think i let mine go for almost 2 months before adding fish
> while i am not a pro at saltwater yet i have managed to keep 2
> percula clowns and 2 yellow tail blue damsels from petco for over
2
> years now going on to close to 3 years now
> i hope that helped
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
> <mi_vida_muyloca@> wrote:
> >
> > Hey, I just wanted to say I checked out your pics Steve, and they
> > look great. I am currently researching before I start my first
> > saltwater tank. I had a 55 gal given to me recently and I am
> looking
> > for a stand to put it on. I am trying to decide on which fish
> before
> > I start gathering supplies(heaters, filters, etc.). Does anyone
> have
> > an opinion on skimmers? Or wavemakers for coral? Are they
necessary
> > for a saltwater reef set up? I am thinking I am going to go with
> > fish from a certian region and try to duplicate the natural
> > enviornment. Now, if only I could decide which fish I like the
> best.
> > LOL
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> > >
> > > has anyone checked out my pics i posted in the photo section
> > either
> > > let me know what u think of my other tanks
> > >
> > > i know the saltwater tank needs more live rock but i don t have
> > any
> > > big fish so really i don t need it but more live rock will make
> it
> > > look alot nicer
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20636 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Joseph...
Also you can buy valves to control the air flow.

----- Original Message ----
From: Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:27:01 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...













The filter that is in the small one gallons are undergravel filters that are safe. The other type sometimes may suck them up.



----- Original Message ----

From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@ yahoo.com. au>

To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 5:24:06 PM

Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ...Joseph...



I was told Bettas are not supposed to be in a tank with filters. That they dont like it



cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ hotmail.com> wrote: If it is not a filtered tank, if it's just a bowl of water, that's not



enough water changing. Could be a water quality issue



> I changed the water Tuesday just gone



> Don't forget i'm on Australian time here. Today is 29/1/07 3:30pm



>



> Did nothing differnt. I try and change it once every one to two weeks



if I can



>



>



> Lisa



Lisa



Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger .yahoo.com



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20637 From: Loki Wolf Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: ...Betta Care
Bettas in nature patrol areas up to 3ft square, and while the water is
not fast flowing, it is not stagnant either. A one gallon tank without a
filter needs to be changed at least twice per week, 100%, otherwise you
will build up toxic levels of ammonia and nitrites. A one gallon tank
WITH a filter, such as a UGF or one of the tiny micro filter thingys
they sell now, can be cycled, but still not recommended as it's pretty
hard to keep a tank that size stable unless you are very diligent about
water quality. The rule in aquariums is the more water you have to work
with, the more room for error you have, because things have more room to
get diluted.

In addition, bettas are tropical fish that prefer temps between 77 and
82 degrees. Lower than that and they are less active and more prone to
illness and constipation, due to sluggish digestion. A 1 gallon tank is
nearly impossible to keep a stable temperature in, unless you're
diligent about either: keeping your room warm, keeping a heat source
near the tank, and monitoring the temp with a "good" thermometer, not
the plastic stick on thingys...

If you are only changing water every couple weeks, then your betta is
getting fresh water the first few days, followed by a gradual build up
of ammonia. Just as the ammonia is to a point where the bacteria that
could convert it to nitrites start to kick in, you are changing it
completely, which resets the whole thing. So your betta is getting
constantly stressed by his water conditions. Even though bettas can take
air from the surface, which helps them deal with this stress, it
eventually does wear down their immune systems and takes a toll on their
gills and on their fins, making them prone to early death, finrot,
fungus, columnaris, and ich. Ammonia burns their gills and fins, and
nitrItes keep them from being able to use oxygen from the water
effectively.

Even if they appear healthy for a while under these conditions, that
doesn't mean it's good for them. It's the same thing as with goldfish,
except bettas handle it a bit better and are a bit less messy.

Recommended care for bettas in a 1 gallon bowl: 100% water change 2 or
3x's a week, using conditioned, same temperature water. Dont net him,
use the cup he came from the pet store in to scoop him up and hold him
while you rinse out his bowl in hot water and refill it. Then hold your
hand, or the lid, over the top of the cup and let most of the dirty
water drain out, and then slide him back into his nice clean bowl. If
he has a light over his bowl, it may put out enough heat to keep him
warm, but the only way to tell is with a glass thermometer in his bowl.
If you turn out the light at night, wrap a fluffy towel around his bowl
to hold warmth in.

In a 1 gallon tank with a filter: IF you decide to let his tank cycle,
it will take about 4 weeks of monitoring ammonia and nitrite levels
until those are at 0 and nitrAtes show. During this time, you'll need to
change out about 2-4 cups of water each day with fresh conditioned
water, and use a good conditioner like amquel+ or Prime, which will
detoxify ammonia without messing up the cycle you are trying to do.
Prime also detoxifies nitrItes, which is good. You will also need test
kits for ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte... the ammonia test kit needs to
be the kind that has two bottles of reagent, not the single bottle, or
it will not read correctly with some water conditioners. During this
time also, you want to feed sparingly, so as to reduce the amount of
ammonia waste being put into the water.

You CAN use a filter on a tank that you don't cycle, as well, if you are
going to do water changes as described in caring for betta bowls. Many
bettas actually like doing a bit of bubble surfing, once they learn how
to actually swim again after being kept in tiny cups. Ideal tanks/bowls
for bettas are between 3 and 5 gallons, if you keep them by themselves,
or 10 gallons and up if you have other tank inhabitants. I have my
bettas in 3 gallon tanks each with an ADF and lots of live plants. Live
or silk plants are best for bettas, as plastic plants can tear their fins.



In reply to the betta who was sitting on the bottom, looking bloated,
with clamped fins, what is/was your feeding schedule and amount and type
of food? Bettas are very prone to becoming constipated with dry foods,
especially since they are little piggies who beg to be fed constantly.
They should get as much as the size of their eye, twice daily. And if
it's dry pellets/granules, you should soak it in a bit of tank water
first to soften it. Preferably, they should get frozen bloodworms
(blister-packs of cubes or flat-packs found in the freezer at your local
pet store) at least once a day, instead of dry food. If you feed frozen
foods, thaw it in a bit of tank water in a clean (no soap ever touched)
cup, and then use a toothpick to drop 3 or 4 in his tank/bowl.
refrigerate the rest for up to 3 days.

If your betta does get a swollen belly, and is generally acting less
active, then fast him until the swelling goes down and (gross as it
sounds) watch for poo. After a couple days, give him a piece of thawed
pea with the skin taken off. This acts as a laxative.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20638 From: quietari Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
<<So, how do I select a good LFS?>>

Common sense can go a long way. Go in and look at the fish and at the
tanks. Are they overstocked? littered with dead fish (the petco near
me is notorious for leaving dead fish in the tank far, far to long)?
Is there a lot of algae growing (note this may be intentional in the
tanks holidng shrimp etc), do they have a healthy stock of larger fish
(larger fish to me is an indication they arent just buying 4 mo. farm
raised fish in bulk and throwing them in a tank)? Do the fish appear
stressed, are they swimming in strange patterns, do you see a lot of
fin nipping? Do they offer aquatic plants (many stores will just drop
them in a fish style-tank with lots of O2, not knowing that without
special care, they will die. Look for brown, transluscent, wilting
leaves as an indicator)? All of these can be indicators the employees
know what they are doing.

Introduce yourself to the manager or employees there. Many of the LFS
near me are mom and pop type places, so the employee(s) are often the
owners, and through conversation you can learn what they know and be
comfortable with the advice they give. Also, ive found ordering
specialty things through a store is much easier if i have a
relationship with the people.

If the option is available to you, go out and look at a variety of
LFS. I have four or five i regularly rotate betweeen because they get
different stocks, differing delivery dates, and helps me determine fair
pricing and good deals. All of them are specialty stores, selling
fish\pond stuff only and they all have their strengths and weaknesses.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20639 From: Donna Camp Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: LFS
Many thanks for the replies! I plan on heading out to several stores
tomorrow and looking around and talking with people. You've given me many
things to look for.

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20640 From: joe t Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: LFS
That's a real good question, Donna. In my experience, since the time I helped a friend run his store, to the times I had to go elsewhere, the answer is you really don't know until you give them a shot.

If you have any knowledge of fish keeping, you will know right away if the people at the LFS know what they're talking about. Have a conversation with them. Ask questions you already know the answers to. You'll know right away if they're trying to BS you. And most of all: Take your time and look at the tanks. Do a real Sherlock Holmes and look close. If you see anything you surmise is wrong in a tank, don't buy any fish from that tank. You don't want to bring the problem home and put it in your tank. I said "don't buy any fish from that tank" cause it could only be that one or a few tanks that have a problem. It happens to the best of us. They can't foresee everything that may be coming from the distributor. The real best way is to buy from a breeder if you can find one. They are usually proud of their fish and if they aren't up to their standards they won't sell them.

The old gentleman that I used to help had a rickety old store. Really nothing to look at. He had a following that you couldn't believe. He would NEVER sell anyone fish from a "sick" tank. Whenever anyone wasn't sure if they could put a certain fish in their tank, the first thing he would ask is, "what other fish do you have?" Many kids came back to Steve and said, "Ya know, Steve, you told me not to put that fish in my tank, but I wanted it. So I bought it somewhere else. You were right! It killed my other fish......." or whatever.

So, take it from there, Donna. Good luck.

joe t


---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20641 From: lisa lawless Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: More questions. Please help
I have another few questions…


When I got my female betta Drucilla about six months ago, I put her in the same tank with my William, but I did have a clear tank divider which was fine. Gradually over five weeks, I removed the divider for a minute at a time every second day or so. Not a problem. Then one day, when the divider had been out for about three minutes under my close watchful eye, Dru attached herself to Will’s tail. Will, in blind panic darted around the tank with Dru still attached to his tail. I managed to disengage the chase with the divider, and my Will hid in the corner shaking. They are now both in separate tanks. But sit next to each other. Is this aggressive behaviour typical in females?
Also. I used to have a tank that took about six standard 500 mls water drink bottles. Don’t know what that is in Ltrs. I suck at maths okay? And had about five zebra danios, six at one point. I think one of them may have actually been a leopard danio, but I digress…What is the max number of danios I can keep in that size tank?, and can I keep different species of danio together?. Has anyone kept different danios in one tank?, and have they encountered any problems? This tank is not big enough for a filter. And I did not have any issues with my last lot I had.
I am still living at home due to financial issues. However. When I get my own place, I would like to look at setting up a tank for silver sharks. Keeping in mind I am a novice at keeping fish tanks of any sort. Assume I know nothing here please. What would you suggest? Can I keep 1 by itself, or are they schooling fish? What are the minimum requirements?. Can I keep other species of fish with them?

Your help and suggestions are much appreciated thanks





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20642 From: Donna Ransome Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] thanks Donna
You are welcome, look forward to reading your posts on the other site.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] thanks Donna



for that website you gave cichlid-forum.com
very helpful found everything i need to know about cichlids
for the time being anyways
maybe 1 day when all my tetras r gone i will change my 55gallon into
a cichlid tank
i know i will still have to stick with somewhat less agressive
cichlids but it will still give them some more room
my 29G tank has lots of rocks and caves so then should be happy in
the mean timei bet at least 50lbs of rock in the 29G tank

and Thank you
to everyone else too
for the help

this is a great group

i just hope we can keep spammers away they ruin clubs so fast with
all kinds of posts that no one cares about

has anyone checked out my pics i posted in the photo section either
let me know what u think of my other tanks

i know the saltwater tank needs more live rock but i don t have any
big fish so really i don t need it but more live rock will make it
look alot nicer





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20643 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: If this works...
This is the exact tank I have my male Betta in. Without the blue divider thingy. He has the tank to himself


Lisa




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20644 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: My tank
I think i'm getting the idea of this uploading Jpeg pics thing.
But it frustrates me, cause I consider myself quite computer lierate
normally.
Anyway, that's really not the point here.
I put a new pic in my photo file, showing exactly what tank it is that
I have.
I renamed my folder 'Lisa Lawless'
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20645 From: Joseph Reid Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
You can mix the Danios. I dont know what mls is in relation to gallons. Normally for Danios it is one inch of fish per gallon. As for your female betta never had that happened. Usually its the male that goes after the female to try to mate with them. Also it is best to have a filter. How you get that place soon.

----- Original Message ----
From: lisa lawless <lisa_lawless2004@...>
To: Aquatic Life <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 7:32:23 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] More questions. Please help













I have another few questions…





When I got my female betta Drucilla about six months ago, I put her in the same tank with my William, but I did have a clear tank divider which was fine. Gradually over five weeks, I removed the divider for a minute at a time every second day or so. Not a problem. Then one day, when the divider had been out for about three minutes under my close watchful eye, Dru attached herself to Will’s tail. Will, in blind panic darted around the tank with Dru still attached to his tail. I managed to disengage the chase with the divider, and my Will hid in the corner shaking. They are now both in separate tanks. But sit next to each other. Is this aggressive behaviour typical in females?

Also. I used to have a tank that took about six standard 500 mls water drink bottles. Don’t know what that is in Ltrs. I suck at maths okay? And had about five zebra danios, six at one point. I think one of them may have actually been a leopard danio, but I digress…What is the max number of danios I can keep in that size tank?, and can I keep different species of danio together?. Has anyone kept different danios in one tank?, and have they encountered any problems? This tank is not big enough for a filter. And I did not have any issues with my last lot I had.

I am still living at home due to financial issues. However. When I get my own place, I would like to look at setting up a tank for silver sharks. Keeping in mind I am a novice at keeping fish tanks of any sort. Assume I know nothing here please. What would you suggest? Can I keep 1 by itself, or are they schooling fish? What are the minimum requirements? . Can I keep other species of fish with them?



Your help and suggestions are much appreciated thanks



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20646 From: Lisa Date: 1/30/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
<You can mix the Danios. I don't know what mls is in relation to gallons. Normally for Danios it is one inch of fish per gallon. As for your female betta never had that happened. Usually its the male that goes after the female to try to mate with them. Also it is best to have a filter. How you get that place soon.>

Thankyou Joseph.
Do you mean 'Hope you get the place soon'?...So do I. Believe me!
But I've yet to actually find the place. A lot easier said then done.

What about the silver sharks?


Lisa




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20647 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
Hey, Steve.
Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I do plan on going VERY slowly.
I plan to get the tank set up and practice keeping the levels right,
etc. before I do ANYTHING else. I don't want to kill any fish, or
throw away my money just because I was in too much of a hurry. =O)


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> oh yes i almost forgot get your live rock from ebay if there are a
> few suppliers on there i forget what 1 i got mine from but i got
> something like 40lbs for i believe it was about 130 US dollars i
> think it is was just over 3 US dollars a pound and i believe that
> included the shipping too or maybe about 150 US dollars with the
> shipping still under 4 US dollars a pound most local fish stores
sell
> it for about 7 dollars a pound you will save alot of money
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20648 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Yes, female bettas can be as aggressive, and sometimes more so, than
males. When bettas are raised in community they tend to be less
aggressive. When they are jarred and seperated to their own territory
while young, they tend to be more aggressive, both males and females.

Occasionally, you will find a pair that 'click' and won't be seperated,
but usually you cannot keep the male and female together without a
large tank and loads of hiding places. Sometimes you can't keep them
together under any circumstances.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20649 From: steve Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
it s not as bad as you as alot of people say it is i would say not
alot different from freshwater you just have to get a good salinity
mix trying to mix the salt with the water is the hardest part for me
i add some salt it is to low i add some more still to low i add a lil
bit more still low a bit add more salt then it is to high so then add
some water then we get it just right finally lol don t let that scare
u off though it takes a few minutes the first few times but you will
have it down in no time if i were you i would maybe start off with a
pair of clown fish maybe percula or the ocellaris they are hardy fish
even though they can be a lil territorial they aren t that bad
use crushed coral for your base to maintain your PH
other then that just keep up with your water changes and everything
should be ok
these r some of the other fish i would stay away from besides the
butterflies i mentioned before
wrasse- cause they feed off parasites from other fish and if you don
t get them eating other food they will die quick with in a few days
even though i said a dwarf angel would be good do not make it your
first fish they are a lil more delicate and you wanna make sure you
have the water under 100 percent control before getting 1 maybe wait
a year before getting an angel
stay away from tangs except for the yellow hawaiian they are very
fragile too
i am also not sure if i am correct about these last 2 fish maybe
someone can correct me if i am wrong but the blennies and mandarins
i believe they eat algae from the crush coral if you don t let your
substrate sit for a couple years there will not be enough food for
them and die after a bit seeing that they don t eat other fish food
but maybe they can be trained to eat other food but i m not sure i
was told this by someone at a LFS that knows alot about fish and i
sorta befriended him and he tells me fish to stay away from and what
not and all the little things like that




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
<mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
>
> Hey, Steve.
> Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I do plan on going VERY
slowly.
> I plan to get the tank set up and practice keeping the levels
right,
> etc. before I do ANYTHING else. I don't want to kill any fish, or
> throw away my money just because I was in too much of a hurry. =O)
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> > oh yes i almost forgot get your live rock from ebay if there are
a
> > few suppliers on there i forget what 1 i got mine from but i got
> > something like 40lbs for i believe it was about 130 US dollars i
> > think it is was just over 3 US dollars a pound and i believe that
> > included the shipping too or maybe about 150 US dollars with the
> > shipping still under 4 US dollars a pound most local fish stores
> sell
> > it for about 7 dollars a pound you will save alot of money
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20650 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
If you do put them together and the female takes off some of the male's long fins, will they grow back? Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 9:12:37 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: More questions. Please help

Yes, female bettas can be as aggressive, and sometimes more so, than
males. When bettas are raised in community they tend to be less
aggressive. When they are jarred and seperated to their own territory
while young, they tend to be more aggressive, both males and females.

Occasionally, you will find a pair that 'click' and won't be seperated,
but usually you cannot keep the male and female together without a
large tank and loads of hiding places. Sometimes you can't keep them
together under any circumstances.








____________________________________________________________________________________
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Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20651 From: Kherveen Shibchurn Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. More Answers for Lisa
Comments
Bala Sharks are beautiful, graceful, energetic, and mild tempered. They are one of the very best aquarium fish and form beautiful schools. Bala Sharks are more susceptible to ich and shimmy than most other tropical fish.

This beautiful Bala Shark is about 7" long. It grew to this size in an aquarium with over 120 gallons of water. There is a story about raising Bala Sharks at the bottom of this page.
Appropriate Home
Eventually a large aquarium with an exterior power filter with a BIO-Wheel filter, a maximum of 1/4 inch of gravel, and an aquarium heater adjusted to between 78 and 82 degrees F.
All Sharks are jumpers, so the aquarium they live in must have a cover with no holes.

Recommended Diet
Floating flake food plus some freeze dried blood worms, which are actually mosquito larvae. Both of these foods are available in most stores, where pet fish are sold. Also occasionally feed Bala Sharks a few live Black Worms and live or frozen brine shrimp.

Compatibility
Bala Sharks are a schooling fish that will not be comfortable in a school with less than six Bala Sharks. Good tank mates for Bala Sharks are all Gouramis, all Barbs including Tinfoil Barbs, all Danios, all Rainbows, a few Spiny Eels, one Red Tail Shark or one Rainbow Shark, and a school of Clown Loaches.
Size and Life Span
Bala Sharks can grow to at least 14" and live for several years, probably many years.


Lisa <lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote: <You can mix the Danios. I don't know what mls is in relation to gallons. Normally for Danios it is one inch of fish per gallon. As for your female betta never had that happened. Usually its the male that goes after the female to try to mate with them. Also it is best to have a filter. How you get that place soon.>

Thankyou Joseph.
Do you mean 'Hope you get the place soon'?...So do I. Believe me!
But I've yet to actually find the place. A lot easier said then done.

What about the silver sharks?

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20652 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pics
The Cleaner Wrasse is the one mentioned here, you should definitely stay away from it. As mentioned it feeds exclusively on parasites from other fish, and so is best left in the ocean. There are other wrasse that are great aquarium fish though, for example the 6 line wrasse. If you are looking for something to clean parasites off the fish in your tank (or are hoping to re-create the symbiosis that exists between the cleaner and cleanee - watching a little cleaner shrimp bravely step into the open mouth of an eel, do it's job, and then walk away as if nothing had happened is a sight to see!) that will accept other foods I would suggest a skunk cleaner shrimp. I've got one in my nano; it looks great and is loaded with personality. It readily (greedily actually) accepts mysis and other food stuffs.

As mentioned, Mandarins should also be avoided by all but the most experienced aquarists with fully established reef tanks. They feed on micro organisms (i.e. copepods) and unless a tank is well established you just won't have the food supply to keep them alive. Arguably a refugium with some type of macro algae growing in it (i.e. caulerpa or chaetomorpha) should be kept to sustain your pod population in order to support a Mandarin. Though they are commonly found at the LFS and are fairly inexpensive, they are extremely difficult to keep. That said, some people have had luck with setting up food stations for their Mandarins feeding them smelt roe, others have even been able to get them to feed on mysis. These cases are rare and should be considered the exception and not the rule.

Have fun! :)


----- Original Message -----
From: steve
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 6:13 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pics



it s not as bad as you as alot of people say it is i would say not
alot different from freshwater you just have to get a good salinity
mix trying to mix the salt with the water is the hardest part for me
i add some salt it is to low i add some more still to low i add a lil
bit more still low a bit add more salt then it is to high so then add
some water then we get it just right finally lol don t let that scare
u off though it takes a few minutes the first few times but you will
have it down in no time if i were you i would maybe start off with a
pair of clown fish maybe percula or the ocellaris they are hardy fish
even though they can be a lil territorial they aren t that bad
use crushed coral for your base to maintain your PH
other then that just keep up with your water changes and everything
should be ok
these r some of the other fish i would stay away from besides the
butterflies i mentioned before
wrasse- cause they feed off parasites from other fish and if you don
t get them eating other food they will die quick with in a few days
even though i said a dwarf angel would be good do not make it your
first fish they are a lil more delicate and you wanna make sure you
have the water under 100 percent control before getting 1 maybe wait
a year before getting an angel
stay away from tangs except for the yellow hawaiian they are very
fragile too
i am also not sure if i am correct about these last 2 fish maybe
someone can correct me if i am wrong but the blennies and mandarins
i believe they eat algae from the crush coral if you don t let your
substrate sit for a couple years there will not be enough food for
them and die after a bit seeing that they don t eat other fish food
but maybe they can be trained to eat other food but i m not sure i
was told this by someone at a LFS that knows alot about fish and i
sorta befriended him and he tells me fish to stay away from and what
not and all the little things like that

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mi_vida_muyloca"
<mi_vida_muyloca@...> wrote:
>
> Hey, Steve.
> Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I do plan on going VERY
slowly.
> I plan to get the tank set up and practice keeping the levels
right,
> etc. before I do ANYTHING else. I don't want to kill any fish, or
> throw away my money just because I was in too much of a hurry. =O)
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> > oh yes i almost forgot get your live rock from ebay if there are
a
> > few suppliers on there i forget what 1 i got mine from but i got
> > something like 40lbs for i believe it was about 130 US dollars i
> > think it is was just over 3 US dollars a pound and i believe that
> > included the shipping too or maybe about 150 US dollars with the
> > shipping still under 4 US dollars a pound most local fish stores
> sell
> > it for about 7 dollars a pound you will save alot of money
> >
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20653 From: chess_boxin7 Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Two 55 Gallon Tanks for sale in Chicago
Greetings,
I have two 55 Gal. tanks with lightfor $125.00. See the pictures in my
profile, click "view photos". I've used them to breed Guppies and the
top tank is layered with Marbles so that their babies can hide and swin
throughout the marbles. The second tank at the bottom is less then a
year old and purchsed it last year. I will not ship because of risk of
damages, must come and pick up. My next step will be auction on ebay
and sure to get more.
If interedted e-mail or hit me on yahoo messenger.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20654 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Yes, if the male gets nipped up, he'll eventually recover. IT's best
to be VERY vigalent with water quality and making sure you keep an eye
on his health for a while, as that can lead to their weakened immune
system giving way and they can become ill. I recently had a female we
named Evil Woman, who nearly killed the male we chose for her,
initially. She took out an eye and had his fins completely off. Poor
baby could only lie on the floating plants to breath. WE removed her
hastily, of course, and the next male she was with she didn't nip at
all! Go figure. Anyway, I used stress coat on the male, and melafix,
and he grew back just fine, though a wee bit shorter than they had
been. He was nearly a rosetail, though, and his fins were a bit
overabundant, so in the end, the episode actually made it easier for
him to move around.


> If you do put them together and the female takes off some of the
male's long fins, will they grow back? Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20655 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Two 55 Gallon Tanks for sale in Chicago
No photos are available

Sorry, chess_boxin7 has not enabled any public albums in their
account.
Learn more about sharing albums

Sorry. Is that $125 each, or all together?


> Greetings,
> I have two 55 Gal. tanks with lightfor $125.00. See the pictures in
my
> profile, click "view photos".
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20656 From: Cory Walter Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Thanks for the info. I have a beautiful dreamsicle colored male I would like to breed, but I've never tried it and have no idea what I would do with so many babies.


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 3:02:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia

Yes, if the male gets nipped up, he'll eventually recover. IT's best
to be VERY vigalent with water quality and making sure you keep an eye
on his health for a while, as that can lead to their weakened immune
system giving way and they can become ill. I recently had a female we
named Evil Woman, who nearly killed the male we chose for her,
initially. She took out an eye and had his fins completely off. Poor
baby could only lie on the floating plants to breath. WE removed her
hastily, of course, and the next male she was with she didn't nip at
all! Go figure. Anyway, I used stress coat on the male, and melafix,
and he grew back just fine, though a wee bit shorter than they had
been. He was nearly a rosetail, though, and his fins were a bit
overabundant, so in the end, the episode actually made it easier for
him to move around.

> If you do put them together and the female takes off some of the
male's long fins, will they grow back? Cory
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20657 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Thankyou Kherveen
Thankyou Kherveen.

It won't be a while till i get it set up. But it's always best to be prepared.

Much thanks for your advice.

Lisa


Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20658 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Danios
Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species of danios, and what type of plants they like please.

Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some differnt species can be kept in one tank.

Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?

And can new danios be added to an established danio community?

Thanks


Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20659 From: Pickles Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
I did a Google Search and found a few websites about danios...
http://www.google.com/search?q=danios&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a
heres a few good ones....
http://www.danios.info/home.asp
http://fish.mongabay.com/danios.htm
http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_danio.php

hope this helps....Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: Lisa
To: Aquatic Life
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 4:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios


Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species of danios, and what type of plants they like please.

Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some differnt species can be kept in one tank.

Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?

And can new danios be added to an established danio community?

Thanks

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20660 From: Bob Straley Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Info on best freshawater setup
Hi, I am new here, but not to aquariums. I used to breed bettas years
ago. At one time I had 600 gallons of freshawater fish for fun and
breeding. I have been out of the hobby for fifteen years and would like
to start again. Nothing in the breeding arena though. I would like to
start with 75 to 120 gallons of fresh water. I am not familiar with the
newer acrylic tanks, is this a good way to go? I see all types of
filtration now that is new to me along with many lighting and other
options that were not around in my day. My question is, if I want a top
performing setup in todays world, what would that be?

Thanks,

Bob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20661 From: Lisa Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Thanks Mary. I check them out.

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
10. Danio roseus


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
To: Aquatic Life
Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios

Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species of danios, and what type of plants they like please.

Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some differnt species can be kept in one tank.

Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?

And can new danios be added to an established danio community?

Thanks


Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20663 From: Steve Szabo Date: 1/31/2007
Subject: Re: Info on best freshawater setup
Unless you want an unusual shape, glass is still the best bet. Acrylic
scratches too easily, and has a tendency to bow out.

UGF's have fallen out of favor, and HOT filters are the way to go still.
If the tank is large enough, a canister filter is best. Use the
bio-wheels to provide for additional nitrifying bacteria colonization
area.

Lighting is a topic in and of itself. If you are going to do live
plants, it is worth the time to do some research on the various options
available to enhance plant growth. Otherwise, the old fluorescent over
the tank is more than good enough.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Straley
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 8:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Info on best freshawater setup

Hi, I am new here, but not to aquariums. I used to breed bettas years
ago. At one time I had 600 gallons of freshawater fish for fun and
breeding. I have been out of the hobby for fifteen years and would like
to start again. Nothing in the breeding arena though. I would like to
start with 75 to 120 gallons of fresh water. I am not familiar with the
newer acrylic tanks, is this a good way to go? I see all types of
filtration now that is new to me along with many lighting and other
options that were not around in my day. My question is, if I want a top
performing setup in todays world, what would that be?

Thanks,

Bob


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
`..><((((>.`..`.><((((> .`.. , .`..><((((>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<((((><.`..`.<((((><.`.. , .`..<((((><`..
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated to
species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
us all nuts!

Addendum:

Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)

D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)

D. apogon (Chu 1981)

D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)

D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)

D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)

D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)

D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)

D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)

D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)

D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)

D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)

D. regina (Fowler 1934)

D. shanensis (Hora 1928)

D. spinosis (Day 1870)

There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --

Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik Red,
Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to see
half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
being complete. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> 10. Danio roseus
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> To: Aquatic Life
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
>
> Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species of
danios, and what type of plants they like please.
>
> Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
differnt species can be kept in one tank.
>
> Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
>
> And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Lisa
>
>
>
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends
http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20665 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help-Cynthia
Well, I let the male rear the fry to adulthood. This means that any
weak or deformed or sickly fry get eaten, leaving me with usually
around 20 fry, or less. The healthy fry, however, do not get eaten.
IT's easier on me than having to try to cull sick or weak fry, so I
like this method. This way I don't have quite so many fry to deal
with, and when the fry are raised with their father, they can co-exist
peacefully, indefinately. The males fins do not grow out completely
until they are seperated into their own tank, but they are still lovely
to see swimming together in the tank. I've had several people
completely flabbergasted at seeing ten or twelve males in one tank
without fighting.

Once the father is removed, however, the fighting for the new dominant
male begins, and most have to be seperated into their own tanks.

> Thanks for the info. I have a beautiful dreamsicle colored male I
would like to breed, but I've never tried it and have no idea what I
would do with so many babies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20666 From: steve Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: freshwater fish problems
or maybe they are just getting old and dying a natural death i have a
little mix of tetra the past couple days i notice some of them
breathing kinda heavy even after a 50 percent water change
and i am faithful with my water changes every 3 weeks i change about
50 percent of the water
it seems to be the red eye tetra s i am losing i only had 2 of them
now down to 1 and he is beathing heavy
i also have a black skirt tetra that someone was definatly picking on
him he is missing alot of scales but just on 1 side of his bodyand
only on the front half of his body
also have a silver dollar that has lost most of his fins
maybe a silver dollar isn t the best idea for a schooling fish tank
and maybe the school was picking on him who knows but i m not sure
how he even gets around besides just wiggling his body should i put
him outta his misery now i think i have had him for a lil over 6
months now
the rest of my black skirt tetras are perfectly fine the school well
together hang out and play together and even let my small bala shark
(2-3 inches) and boeseami rainbowfish (about the same size as the
bala just wider from top to bottom) school with them also and the
water quality checks out good too
my theory is maybe the silver dollar was picking on the red eye
tetras and in return maybe they ganged up on him nipping at his fins
and they go back and forth fighting
maybe someone else has an idea, or could i be right maybe the fish
are just getting old cause who knows how old fish are when you buy
them at the LFS
but maybe just incase i should empty out the tank completely and
clean all the rocks and everything good and start all over and put my
fish into my 29 gallon for temporary until the 55 is going again and
is cycled
let me know what you guys think
thanks

steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20667 From: Loki Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: More questions. Please help
Hmm... last post didn't make it through , it seems....

Here it is again:

Yes, female bettas can be just as aggressive and territorial as males.
The only time they should be in the same tank as a male is if you
intend to breed them. And the female determines when she's ready to
breed... She will have eggs, and she will "bar up" with stripes on her
body, and just in general act interested. If she's not ready, she will
attack.

When she's done mating, she will again become aggressive and must be
removed.

If you intend to breed, you must have the appropriate setup for it.
You need about a 10 gallon filtered, heated, preferably planted tank
ALREADY FULLY CYCLED, and you must know what you are going to do with
the babies. When they get to be a certain age, but still too young to
sell, they all need to be separated into their own bowls, which can be
100 or more bowls to be changing every week!

Sometimes females can be kept together with other females, but this is
a hit and miss scenario, entirely dependent on the individual
temperaments.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, lisa lawless
<lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote:
>
> I have another few questions…
>
>
> When I got my female betta Drucilla about six months ago, I put
her in the same tank with my William, but I did have a clear tank
divider which was fine. Gradually over five weeks, I removed the
divider for a minute at a time every second day or so. Not a problem.
Then one day, when the divider had been out for about three minutes
under my close watchful eye, Dru attached herself to Will's tail.
Will, in blind panic darted around the tank with Dru still attached to
his tail. I managed to disengage the chase with the divider, and my
Will hid in the corner shaking. They are now both in separate tanks.
But sit next to each other. Is this aggressive behaviour typical in
females?
> Also. I used to have a tank that took about six standard 500 mls
water drink bottles. Don't know what that is in Ltrs. I suck at maths
okay? And had about five zebra danios, six at one point. I think one
of them may have actually been a leopard danio, but I digress…What is
the max number of danios I can keep in that size tank?, and can I keep
different species of danio together?. Has anyone kept different danios
in one tank?, and have they encountered any problems? This tank is not
big enough for a filter. And I did not have any issues with my last
lot I had.
> I am still living at home due to financial issues. However. When
I get my own place, I would like to look at setting up a tank for
silver sharks. Keeping in mind I am a novice at keeping fish tanks of
any sort. Assume I know nothing here please. What would you suggest?
Can I keep 1 by itself, or are they schooling fish? What are the
minimum requirements?. Can I keep other species of fish with them?
>
> Your help and suggestions are much appreciated thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends
http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20668 From: Loki Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Are you looking to keep danios with your betta???? If so, you will
end up with the betta having shredded fins and being stressed a lot,
because danios are KNOWN for being NIPPY fish. And if you get long
finned danios, then you will end up with the danios having shredded
fins too, since the betta will take them as a threat.

Good tankmates for bettas are fish that are not so nippy, ones that
tend to keep to themselves, such as small schooling fish, and ones
that are not long-finned and don't have brightly colored fins.

Some that I keep successfully with my bettas are corydoras, neons (in
schools of 5 or more) harlequin rasboras (in schools of 5 or more) yo
yo loaches or kuhli loaches (if you have a large enough tank to
support their growth and needs, as they are sensitive to water quality
and they need to be in groups of at least 3 to be happy) .

Some kinds of tetras or barbs can be ok... serpae tetras are too
nippy... tiger barbs are too nippy... neons are ok, as are
cardinals... rosy barbs should be ok if you keep them in larger groups
(5 or more)

You can also keep African Dwarf Frogs as tankmates, as long as you
don't have too many bottom dwelling fish, otherwise the froggies won't
get enough to eat. You might like an apple snail (mystery snail) as
well. Your betta will have loads of fun head butting him to watch him
fall off the glass... LOL

Again, all this is dependant on your tank setup. You need a large
enough tank. You need proper filtration and heat. You need to have
test kits when you're first setting up the tank, because you'll have
about 4 weeks of testing and water changes till the water quality
reaches what it should be at which point you can move down to once a
week tests/water changes.

But if you're looking to put something else in the 1 gallon? DONT! It
is already overstocked with just a betta in it. Bettas are about 3
countable inches of fish, and the rule of thumb is 1 inch per gallon.
That is another reason that I recommended doing 100% water changes 3
times a week, rather than trying to maintain a stable cycle in such a
small tank with a fish the size of a betta. 100% changes 3 times per
week(as opposed to the every few weeks that you were doing) will keep
ammonia and nitrites at 0.






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Lisa <lisa_lawless2004@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Mary. I check them out.
>
> Lisa
>
>
>
>
> Send instant messages to your online friends
http://au.messenger.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20669 From: xenopuszoo Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Streptomycin Anyone?
I am looking for Streptomycin to treat my Xenopus spp. I am curious if
this is available in an OTC fish medication. I know Kanamycin
is "Kanacyn" but I need Streptomycin specifically.

thanks in advance

~Patrick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20670 From: Lisa Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Thankyou Ray.

Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20671 From: Lisa Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios - Thanks Mary
Are you looking to keep danios with your betta????










No. I have a seprate tank for danios.
I'll try and get a pic for you all


Lisa




Send instant messages to your online friends http://au.messenger.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20672 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Ray,


This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have a
couple of comments below the list.


Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.

Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus [giant
danio]
D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio [zebra
or leopard danio]
D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus [Malabar
danio]
D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
[Malabar danio] [Indian glass
barb]
D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
pathirana [barred danio]
D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus



Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new name
for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D. frankei
as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species status
may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be trustworthy in
this matter to contradict what I have found so far.



As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I do not
find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably follow
up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a bit
skimpy.



I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a quick
peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have an
idea or two about that).

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated to
species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
us all nuts!

Addendum:

Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)

D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)

D. apogon (Chu 1981)

D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)

D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)

D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)

D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)

D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)

D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)

D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)

D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)

D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)

D. regina (Fowler 1934)

D. shanensis (Hora 1928)

D. spinosis (Day 1870)

There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --

Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik Red,
Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to see
half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
being complete. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> 10. Danio roseus
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Lisa
> Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> To: Aquatic Life
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
>
> Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species of
danios, and what type of plants they like please.
>
> Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
differnt species can be kept in one tank.
>
> Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
>
> And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Lisa




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20673 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/1/2007
Subject: fry tank setup and spong filters
Ok, My ranchus are geting close to spawning,
I have a 29 gallon tank with aHOB filter that only reaches about 1/3 the way down into the water, I know I will have to reduce the water in the tank for the fry, so I added an extra tube I had from an old filter that did not work and put a peice of pantyhose over the end so not to suck up any fry, with this extra extension on it, it does not filter near as fast but is it still to much?
I am also thinking of buying some of those flat clear rubbermaid containers that are about 8 inches deep for fry, If I got a few I could put potentials in one and posible culls in the other, and I could switch them back and fourth untile Im certain what ones need culled. I have read about these air spong filters so I decided to make one, I put a piece of upholstery foam in a peice of pantyhose and put an airstone in the middle of the foam, then weighed it down with gravel. Do these really work? I see the bubbles comming out so some water has to be passing through but is it really enough if I just put one of these spong filters in each of the rubbermaid tanks? or will some other filtration work?
This will be my first spawning so Im kinda geting excited, and I dont want to invest to much for anything to fancy untile I have done a few and am willing to do it "full time".
Thanks for any advise
Kimberly


Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20674 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
If constructed properly, the filters do, indeed work, but I don't see
why you have wrapped them in nylon. The on thing I am worried about is
your choice of foam. Are you sure that it is pure foam with no added
mildewcides and germicides? That is the real trick, finding foam that
has had nothing added to it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sacred Wind Arabians
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 11:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] fry tank setup and spong filters

Ok, My ranchus are geting close to spawning,
I have a 29 gallon tank with aHOB filter that only reaches about 1/3
the way down into the water, I know I will have to reduce the water in
the tank for the fry, so I added an extra tube I had from an old filter
that did not work and put a peice of pantyhose over the end so not to
suck up any fry, with this extra extension on it, it does not filter
near as fast but is it still to much?
I am also thinking of buying some of those flat clear rubbermaid
containers that are about 8 inches deep for fry, If I got a few I could
put potentials in one and posible culls in the other, and I could switch
them back and fourth untile Im certain what ones need culled. I have
read about these air spong filters so I decided to make one, I put a
piece of upholstery foam in a peice of pantyhose and put an airstone in
the middle of the foam, then weighed it down with gravel. Do these
really work? I see the bubbles comming out so some water has to be
passing through but is it really enough if I just put one of these spong
filters in each of the rubbermaid tanks? or will some other filtration
work?
This will be my first spawning so Im kinda geting excited, and I dont
want to invest to much for anything to fancy untile I have done a few
and am willing to do it "full time".
Thanks for any advise
Kimberly


Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20675 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
For what its worth, betta fry are some of the tiniest fry I know of,
and I use a regular filter with a cut up filter sponge wrapped around
it to keep the fry safe. IT works just fine. Flow is reduced to a
trickle but water still gets clean. In fact, when the fry get strong
enough, I often find them hovering around the filter cover picking at
the bits of food trapped there.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20676 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: fry tank setup and spong filters
I have thought about buying a couple of bettas I think they are really pretty but I already have 3 aquariums and an indoor pond and Im about to have to set up a couple more rubbermaid tanks to house the goldfish fry in untile they are ready to ssell or go into the pond. If I was going to breed bettas I would not mind sending the mony for some good ones but the ones at walmart are not that great...lol and I cant imagine having 100, 1 gall jars for all those males. Thanks for your info I think if it will work for betta fry it will surly work for GF fry. I will have to keep updates as to how well my first spawning goes.
Kimberly

cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...> wrote:
For what its worth, betta fry are some of the tiniest fry I know of,
and I use a regular filter with a cut up filter sponge wrapped around
it to keep the fry safe. IT works just fine. Flow is reduced to a
trickle but water still gets clean. In fact, when the fry get strong
enough, I often find them hovering around the filter cover picking at
the bits of food trapped there.






Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20677 From: quietari Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Freshwater Flounder question
I have just purchased a freshwater flounder for my planted tank, and i
had a few questions.

1) Do flounders prefer to burrow? or do they like cover? I am
concerned the substrate soil i have in the tank isnt fine enough for it
to burrow in, but there is plenty of plant and wood cover for it to
conceal itself.

2) Is brackish water a necessity? Ive read mixed things on the
internet, some say they need brackish water, others say they only need
brackish when they are middle aged. Basically there is a lot of
conflicting information right now. The flounder is about and 1-1.5
inches long right now, and im wondering the best way to deal with him.

Thanks in advance,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20678 From: jfazio Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: gourami's
I just brought two males home to keep my female company. She hates them
both and was attacking them viciously. I removed her then put her back but
only after putting a divider in there. Shoot. This is my quarantine
tank. Maybe I should give up the mean girl, or maybe over time she'll warm
up to the two males? I thought it was the other way around with 2 males
and 1 female - that the males would be the aggressors.

Thanks!

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20679 From: quietari Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Only two tricks have ever worked for me for managing over aggressive
fish. I feed it before i place the new fish (in the bags) in the
water. If that doesn't seem to help, i rearrange the tank to break
any territory claims the fish might have. Sometimes fish are just
fish tho. My fullgrown SAE killed three snails and an african dwarf
frog and terrorized my small fish for no apparant reason. I
sometimes wondered tho if it was just a stupid fish, and didn't
realize it was eight times bigger than everything else. That
however, is another story.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jfazio <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> I just brought two males home to keep my female company. She hates
them
> both and was attacking them viciously. I removed her then put her
back but
> only after putting a divider in there. Shoot. This is my
quarantine
> tank. Maybe I should give up the mean girl, or maybe over time
she'll warm
> up to the two males? I thought it was the other way around with 2
males
> and 1 female - that the males would be the aggressors.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeannie Fazio
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll
ph:
> 207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
> []
>
> "Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20680 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: Freshwater Flounder question
They have been sold in freshwater and they are small at that time. They do better and live longer in brackish waters. They do bury themselves in the sands. Thats basically why they are formed the way they are as they bury themselves with only their eyes sticking out.


----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 2, 2007 3:01:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Freshwater Flounder question

I have just purchased a freshwater flounder for my planted tank, and i
had a few questions.

1) Do flounders prefer to burrow? or do they like cover? I am
concerned the substrate soil i have in the tank isnt fine enough for it
to burrow in, but there is plenty of plant and wood cover for it to
conceal itself.

2) Is brackish water a necessity? Ive read mixed things on the
internet, some say they need brackish water, others say they only need
brackish when they are middle aged. Basically there is a lot of
conflicting information right now. The flounder is about and 1-1.5
inches long right now, and im wondering the best way to deal with him.

Thanks in advance,






____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20681 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/2/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
As a rule, gouramis are aggressive fish, more so, usually, with
conspecifics, but, often, with anyone that may be in the way. You do not
way which gourami you have, which may be helpful in the analysis of the
problem, but, females are often as aggressive as males.

The problem of the established territory has already been point out to
you, but let us look at it a bit closer. In the case of gouramis, and
most labyrinth fish, the female does not establish a territory. That is
the male's prerogative. So why the aggression here. Well, you did
mention that this was your quarantine tank, and being so, I envision a
smallish tank, probably less than 15 gallons. Like many animals and
humans, crowds make us feel uncomfortable to some extent. The female
needs a certain amount of free space to be comfortable. The tank you
have her in may not really be enough, but with no other fish in the
tank, it was not bad to her. Then you went and added two more fish. It
does not matter, at this point, what their sex was, it was two more
fish. For your female, two was too many. She had to move them out of the
space she had. Time to clean house. These two can go back to where they
came from. The fact that they were dazed and confused from the move made
them easy targets,, probably making it much worse looking than it really
was.

In this case, moving things around in the tank is not a real option, and
will not affect the outcome. First, you really don't have many things
that can be moved in a quarantine tank. Second, sine we are not really
dealing with a territory issue, so moving things around would not mean
an establishment of a new search for territory.

Now, what you did concerns me, not because of the aggression, but
because this is meant to be a quarantine tank. You already had a fish in
quarantine. Whether it was because the fish was new or because the fish
was recovering, or the fish was just a bad actor, it was placed in
quarantine. Adding new fish would necessarily extend the quarantine of
the one in the tank already unless it was quarantined for aggression
(and then why would you add fish with an already known aggressor?). Any
disease the new fish have, can now affect the "healthy fish already in
the tank. Any treatment given to the new fish will also affect the
"healthy" fish.

Of course, you could simply falling into the trap that many others
before you (and, I'm sure, many after) have fallen into. I have gone
through many quarantine tanks in my time that became home to a new
species group of fish for generations to come, thus establishing the
need for yet another tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jfazio
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 4:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] gourami's

I just brought two males home to keep my female company. She hates them

both and was attacking them viciously. I removed her then put her back
but
only after putting a divider in there. Shoot. This is my quarantine
tank. Maybe I should give up the mean girl, or maybe over time she'll
warm
up to the two males? I thought it was the other way around with 2 males

and 1 female - that the males would be the aggressors.

Thanks!

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20682 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
You know, I only got the two yesterday after reading a fish book that
stated how Gouramis needed to be in at least pairs. I felt bad for
the female; thinking she was lonely!

And although aware of the extension of time that the female would
need to be quarantined (I put them in there after getting them home -
for health observation only - prior to putting them in the 55
gallon), my heart broke at the thought that she should have had
companions. When I initially got her, she was the only gourami left
otherwise I would have gotten another despite not knowing at the time
that they did better in pairs. The lady at the fish store told me
not to get any more, for now anyway, otherwise I would upset the
biological system of my quarantine with too many fish at once.

Do you think they'll ever get along? It seems as though the two
males are now curious about her - they keep going to the screen
divider to get closer to her. This happened when I had the
guppies. The males hounded a female. Your forum recommended more
females. I did that, but it didn't stop so I got that divider (comes
in handy!). After a week or so, they kept meeting from their
prospective sides of the screen so I opened it up. It was at that
point that the females actually did some of the harmless chasing.

One other question? Do you think the Gouramis will get along with my
rainbowfish (neons and Boesemans)? Oh, and to answer your question
about the types of Gouramis - they are all dwarfs of different
colors. And the 3 are in a 10 gallon tank.

Fish and caring for their artificial habitat are still such a mystery to me...

Jeannie

At 10:47 PM 2/2/2007, you wrote:
>Now, what you did concerns me, not because of the aggression, but
>because this is meant to be a quarantine tank. You already had a fish in
>quarantine. Whether it was because the fish was new or because the fish
>was recovering, or the fish was just a bad actor, it was placed in
>quarantine. Adding new fish would necessarily extend the quarantine of
>the one in the tank already unless it was quarantined for aggression
>(and then why would you add fish with an already known aggressor?). Any
>disease the new fish have, can now affect the "healthy fish already in
>the tank. Any treatment given to the new fish will also affect the
>"healthy" fish.
>
>Of course, you could simply falling into the trap that many others
>before you (and, I'm sure, many after) have fallen into. I have gone
>through many quarantine tanks in my time that became home to a new
>species group of fish for generations to come, thus establishing the
>need for yet another tank



Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20683 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Quarantine tanks
After having 4 fish in my 10 gallon quarantine tank about a month
ago, the water in there turned cloudy. Again I used my friend's
System 1 Diatom filter and wow, it cleared the tank up in about 5 minutes!

After asking Robin about the whys of the cloudiness, she said that it
may have been caused by having no fish in there for awhile - that
leaving it empty upsets the biological system. A fish store person
told me that it happened because I had too many fish in there at once
(app. 8"). I can't believe that is accurate given how many fish they
keep in the pet store tanks (maybe that's why many of their fish do
not look so good).

Which is true, and if it's the empty tank issue, is there a way to
keep an empty tank from having problems like that in the future?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20684 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Quarantine tanks
A white or grey cloudiness is normally caused by a bacterial bloom,
though there may be other contributing factors as well. If you are
keeping the tank seeded, it is not likely to occur, unless it is done
erratically, causing a number of bacteria to wake up from hibernation
and start reproducing. Beyond that, it would take a bit of sleuthing to
determine the cause (what child put what in the tank, what adult thought
it was a good place to empty his adult beverage in there, etc.).

A greenish color is an over abundance of algae suspended in the water
column. A few conditions would need to be met for this to happen--food
and light need to be present--but it can and will happen.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks

After having 4 fish in my 10 gallon quarantine tank about a month
ago, the water in there turned cloudy. Again I used my friend's
System 1 Diatom filter and wow, it cleared the tank up in about 5
minutes!

After asking Robin about the whys of the cloudiness, she said that it
may have been caused by having no fish in there for awhile - that
leaving it empty upsets the biological system. A fish store person
told me that it happened because I had too many fish in there at once
(app. 8"). I can't believe that is accurate given how many fish they
keep in the pet store tanks (maybe that's why many of their fish do
not look so good).

Which is true, and if it's the empty tank issue, is there a way to
keep an empty tank from having problems like that in the future?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f
207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20685 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Which book did you read that in (gouramis need company of their species)?

By dwarf gourami, I take it to mean you have color varieties of _Colisa lalia_. That same book probably told you they were timid fish, didn't it? Don't worry, they all do. However, if they are properly kept, they are far from timid. They will rule the tank. I kept a couple pair in a 55 gallon tank. They spent most of the time in the plants, but when they came out into the swimming area, everyone made room for them, and either went to the ends of the tank or into the planted areas of the tank. Errant fish would be herded out of the way by the gouramis, but I never saw any real damage done. There was also the occasional tiff between the gouramis themselves.

I've also witnessed this behavior in smaller tanks as well. Give them some heavily planted areas where they can spend most of their time, and they should do fine, and you will witness behavior not seen in a relatively bare tank. In the bare tank, they will then exhibit the behavior often talked about in the books. Unless you get a real bad actor, they should not do any outright harm to the other inhabitants in the tank. The harassment will mainly consist of chasing rather than nipping. You'll probably want to add another female to the mix so you have two pair and no odd man out type of behavior.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] gourami's

You know, I only got the two yesterday after reading a fish book that
stated how Gouramis needed to be in at least pairs. I felt bad for
the female; thinking she was lonely!

And although aware of the extension of time that the female would
need to be quarantined (I put them in there after getting them home -
for health observation only - prior to putting them in the 55
gallon), my heart broke at the thought that she should have had
companions. When I initially got her, she was the only gourami left
otherwise I would have gotten another despite not knowing at the time
that they did better in pairs. The lady at the fish store told me
not to get any more, for now anyway, otherwise I would upset the
biological system of my quarantine with too many fish at once.

Do you think they'll ever get along? It seems as though the two
males are now curious about her - they keep going to the screen
divider to get closer to her. This happened when I had the
guppies. The males hounded a female. Your forum recommended more
females. I did that, but it didn't stop so I got that divider (comes
in handy!). After a week or so, they kept meeting from their
prospective sides of the screen so I opened it up. It was at that
point that the females actually did some of the harmless chasing.

One other question? Do you think the Gouramis will get along with my
rainbowfish (neons and Boesemans)? Oh, and to answer your question
about the types of Gouramis - they are all dwarfs of different
colors. And the 3 are in a 10 gallon tank.

Fish and caring for their artificial habitat are still such a mystery to me...

Jeannie

At 10:47 PM 2/2/2007, you wrote:
>Now, what you did concerns me, not because of the aggression, but
>because this is meant to be a quarantine tank. You already had a fish in
>quarantine. Whether it was because the fish was new or because the fish
>was recovering, or the fish was just a bad actor, it was placed in
>quarantine. Adding new fish would necessarily extend the quarantine of
>the one in the tank already unless it was quarantined for aggression
>(and then why would you add fish with an already known aggressor?). Any
>disease the new fish have, can now affect the "healthy fish already in
>the tank. Any treatment given to the new fish will also affect the
>"healthy" fish.
>
>Of course, you could simply falling into the trap that many others
>before you (and, I'm sure, many after) have fallen into. I have gone
>through many quarantine tanks in my time that became home to a new
>species group of fish for generations to come, thus establishing the
>need for yet another tank



Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f 207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20686 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: brown algie
I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing: HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most trouble right now.

Any help or suggestions on this problem?

Thanks Fred.

PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting system also.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20687 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
The brown algae you are seeing are diatoms. A diatom bloom usually occurs towards the end of the cycle and is totally normal, it will eventually burn out. Your clean up crew (snails, hermit crabs, etc) should make short work of it.

When you say "the coral is looking great and showing signs of blooming with neat little creatures", do you mean that you're seeing hitch hikers come out of your live rock, or have you already added actual coral to the tank? If you have added coral to the tank I would STRONGLY suggest taking it back to your LFS until your cycle completes. The ammonia you're showing is toxic to corals and fish (and snails, crabs, etc...), that will eventually get turned into nitrites by the bacteria in the tank, nitrites are also toxic to your tank's livestock, the nitrites will later be turned into nitrAtes by the bacteria. Once your ammonia and nitrItes are both at 0 you can start with your water changes to bring the nitrAtes down to 0 as well. NitrAtes are not huge problem for fish, but your corals and other inverts will not tolerate them.

Which test kit are you using? Are you using a liquid test kit or strips? If you are using strips, toss them they can be extremely inaccurate. I would highly recommend using Salifert's liquid test kits. It is very possible your cycle is complete and your test kit is just inaccurate.

Let us know what happens! Good luck and happy reefing!

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Rhoda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Fred & Kathy Rhoda
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] brown algie


I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing: HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most trouble right now.

Any help or suggestions on this problem?

Thanks Fred.

PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting system also.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.14/658 - Release Date: 1/29/2007 2:49 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20688 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks
Once you've got the bacteria stabilized, you can keep an empty tank cycled
by (a) keeping fish in there, or (b) adding enough drops of pure ammonia to
replicate what the fish would add. If you are not planning to use your
quarantine tank for a while, you could empty it and store it. Then if
needed for hospital or quarantine, just add a filter from another tank for
instant cycling. Or, used filter material or gravel fresh from your show
tank works as well.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 10:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks



A white or grey cloudiness is normally caused by a bacterial bloom,
though there may be other contributing factors as well. If you are
keeping the tank seeded, it is not likely to occur, unless it is done
erratically, causing a number of bacteria to wake up from hibernation
and start reproducing. Beyond that, it would take a bit of sleuthing to
determine the cause (what child put what in the tank, what adult thought
it was a good place to empty his adult beverage in there, etc.).

A greenish color is an over abundance of algae suspended in the water
column. A few conditions would need to be met for this to happen--food
and light need to be present--but it can and will happen.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks

After having 4 fish in my 10 gallon quarantine tank about a month
ago, the water in there turned cloudy. Again I used my friend's
System 1 Diatom filter and wow, it cleared the tank up in about 5
minutes!

After asking Robin about the whys of the cloudiness, she said that it
may have been caused by having no fish in there for awhile - that
leaving it empty upsets the biological system. A fish store person
told me that it happened because I had too many fish in there at once
(app. 8"). I can't believe that is accurate given how many fish they
keep in the pet store tanks (maybe that's why many of their fish do
not look so good).

Which is true, and if it's the empty tank issue, is there a way to
keep an empty tank from having problems like that in the future?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@goldendox. <mailto:jfazio%40goldendox.com> com ::
Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioriti <http://www.prioritiesonline.com> esonline.com ::
p 207.752.4700 :: f
207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpad <http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio> a.com/jfazio to
preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20689 From: steve Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
just a couple things that i would do i keep my salinity at 1.022 to
1.023 try to lower it down some by adding just a little bit of water,
also do a water change you want the ammonia at 0 and also i think
that nitrate is getting a little bit high even though it is not bad
at low levels i think that is starting to get high.
is the brown algae a thin layer on the glass or on substrate if on
glass then just scrape it off and let the filter take care of it
if it is something growing on the substrate i think that you want
that there it might be a benifical bacteria and some fish will graze
on it
also if you don t have a UV sterilizer it might be a good idea to get
one and also a protien skimmer you will need a small 1 though for a
20 gallon tank i use to have 1 on my 55 gallon tank made by Lee s and
it had a little piece of limewood or something like that i forget
what it was called
i use those magfloat scrapers on my tanks makes cleaning very easy
you can clean the tank and not even get wet unless you buy a small 1
and the magnet isn t strong enough to go through the glass
i hope this helps some
again i am fairly new to saltwater also but i have had saltwater
tanks for about 3 years now and that is just a few things i learned
through out my years


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Rhoda" <fredrhoda@...>
wrote:
>
> I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few
fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but
the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing:
HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -
- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have
been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water
changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming
with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most
trouble right now.
>
> Any help or suggestions on this problem?
>
> Thanks Fred.
>
> PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the
aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting
system also.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20690 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean C. Figueroa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] brown algie


The brown algae you are seeing are diatoms. A diatom bloom usually occurs towards the end of the cycle and is totally normal, it will eventually burn out. Your clean up crew (snails, hermit crabs, etc) should make short work of it. The work crews are all ready in the tank and are doing a good job.

When you say "the coral is looking great and showing signs of blooming with neat little creatures", do you mean that you're seeing hitch hikers come out of your live rock, or have you already added actual coral to the tank? If you have added coral to the tank I would STRONGLY suggest taking it back to your LFS until your cycle completes. The ammonia you're showing is toxic to corals and fish (and snails, crabs, etc...), that will eventually get turned into nitrites by the bacteria in the tank, nitrites are also toxic to your tank's livestock, the nitrites will later be turned into nitrAtes by the bacteria. Once your ammonia and nitrItes are both at 0 you can start with your water changes to bring the nitrAtes down to 0 as well. NitrAtes are not huge problem for fish, but your corals and other inverts will not tolerate them. How long will it take to cycle the tank and drop the Ammonia level? The tank was started on the: 18 January 2007 with live rock from Fiji.

Which test kit are you using? Are you using a liquid test kit or strips? If you are using strips, toss them they can be extremely inaccurate. I would highly recommend using Salifert's liquid test kits. It is very possible your cycle is complete and your test kit is just inaccurate.The test kit that I am using is:Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.

Let us know what happens! Good luck and happy reefing!

Sean

Sean: Thank you for such a quick answer and some clear answers to my questions. Will keep you advised of the progress on this tank.

Fred.

----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Rhoda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Fred & Kathy Rhoda
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] brown algie

I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing: HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most trouble right now.

Any help or suggestions on this problem?

Thanks Fred.

PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting system also.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.14/658 - Release Date: 1/29/2007 2:49 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.21/665 - Release Date: 2/2/2007 11:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20691 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
----- Original Message -----
From: steve
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 12:14 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: brown algie


just a couple things that i would do i keep my salinity at 1.022 to
1.023 try to lower it down some by adding just a little bit of water,
also do a water change you want the ammonia at 0 and also i think
that nitrate is getting a little bit high even though it is not bad
at low levels i think that is starting to get high.
is the brown algae a thin layer on the glass or on substrate if on
glass then just scrape it off and let the filter take care of it.The algae is growing on the tank sides and intake of the filter. I have cleaned it off twice and cleaned the filter and media on the 250 Skilter Filter system. I have a med. power head located at about four inches from the bottom running at 75 gpm or so.
if it is something growing on the substrate I think that you want
that there it might be a beneficial bacteria and some fish will graze
on it
also if you don t have a UV sterilizer it might be a good idea to get
one and also a protein skimmer you will need a small 1 though for a The 250 skilter filter is the one that I am using right now, with filter changes twice a week as long as I have the bloom going on in there.
20 gallon tank i use to have 1 on my 55 gallon tank made by Lee s and
it had a little piece of limewood or something like that I forget
what it was called
I use those magfloat scrapers on my tanks makes cleaning very easy
you can clean the tank and not even get wet unless you buy a small 1
and the magnet isn t strong enough to go through the glass
I hope this helps some
again I am fairly new to saltwater also but I have had saltwater
tanks for about 3 years now and that is just a few things I learned
through out my years. Thank you very much for your time and answers to my questions. I will try and keep you posted as to what happens in the tank system.

Fred.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Rhoda" <fredrhoda@...>
wrote:
>
> I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few
fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but
the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing:
HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -
- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have
been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water
changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming
with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most
trouble right now.
>
> Any help or suggestions on this problem?
>
> Thanks Fred.
>
> PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the
aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting
system also.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.21/665 - Release Date: 2/2/2007 11:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20692 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: brown algie
Hi Fred,

Ok, cool you are using the AP test kit which is fine for a cycling tank.

How long it will take for the cycle to complete varies from tank to tank. My 24g took 2 weeks, my 3g took about 2 months (I'm working on a 120g now, we'll see how long that one takes ;) ), it just depends on how cured the live rock you got is. I would hold off on any further water changes until the ammonia and nitrites are both reading 0 consistently for about a week.

A good skimmer is the key to a healthy SW tank. Some people only use mechanical filtration (filter floss - changed frequently), a skimmer, and live rock and have tremendous success. There are some good skimmers out there, just avoid the Fission Nano Skimmer like the plague... That said, I do not use one on my nanos, weekly water changes is more than capable of handling nutrient export. For a larger tank (i.e. the 120 I'm setting up), I would not do without one.

There are mixed feeling about UV sterilizers, they are primarily used to kill microorganisms in order to keep your livestock from getting diseases. The mixed feelings come about because some people argue the UV sterilizer also kills beneficial bacteria. Outside of the SW world, some people use them in ponds to help control free floating algae. In order for the sterilizer to work, what ever you want dead has to be in the water that passes in front of the light. There are no residual effects, so if the bacteria is sitting on your fish (i.e. adult stage ich), the sterilizer will have no effect. Personally I do not use one, and if I ever do get one (which I doubt) it will be solely for my hospital tank.

Happy reefing!

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Rhoda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Fred & Kathy Rhoda
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:38 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] brown algie



----- Original Message -----
From: Sean C. Figueroa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] brown algie

The brown algae you are seeing are diatoms. A diatom bloom usually occurs towards the end of the cycle and is totally normal, it will eventually burn out. Your clean up crew (snails, hermit crabs, etc) should make short work of it. The work crews are all ready in the tank and are doing a good job.

When you say "the coral is looking great and showing signs of blooming with neat little creatures", do you mean that you're seeing hitch hikers come out of your live rock, or have you already added actual coral to the tank? If you have added coral to the tank I would STRONGLY suggest taking it back to your LFS until your cycle completes. The ammonia you're showing is toxic to corals and fish (and snails, crabs, etc...), that will eventually get turned into nitrites by the bacteria in the tank, nitrites are also toxic to your tank's livestock, the nitrites will later be turned into nitrAtes by the bacteria. Once your ammonia and nitrItes are both at 0 you can start with your water changes to bring the nitrAtes down to 0 as well. NitrAtes are not huge problem for fish, but your corals and other inverts will not tolerate them. How long will it take to cycle the tank and drop the Ammonia level? The tank was started on the: 18 January 2007 with live rock from Fiji.

Which test kit are you using? Are you using a liquid test kit or strips? If you are using strips, toss them they can be extremely inaccurate. I would highly recommend using Salifert's liquid test kits. It is very possible your cycle is complete and your test kit is just inaccurate.The test kit that I am using is:Saltwater Master Liquid Test Kit from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.

Let us know what happens! Good luck and happy reefing!

Sean

Sean: Thank you for such a quick answer and some clear answers to my questions. Will keep you advised of the progress on this tank.

Fred.

----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Rhoda
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Fred & Kathy Rhoda
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 8:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] brown algie

I am into my first salt water tank setup and 7 week -- a few fish - snails and crabs. There is coral from the Fiji Islands -- but the real problem at this time is: Brown Algae - my tests are showing: HRPR at: 8.2 -- Ammonia at: 0.25 -- Nitrite at: 0.0 --Nitrate at: 20 -- Temp is: 76 - 78 deg F. -- Salinity is: 1.025 . all parameters have been holding at these readings -- went through two 3 gal water changes so far. The coral is looking great and showing signs blooming with neat little creatures. But the brown algae is by far the most trouble right now.

Any help or suggestions on this problem?

Thanks Fred.

PS: The filter is a 250 Skiller and working very good -- the aquarium is a 20 gallon tall with all glass and a marine lighting system also.

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20693 From: Julie Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: New Tank
I just got a Eclipse 12g with Bio Wheel filtration..my specific grav.
is 1.022..have got 10# livesand...10# coral it it..I was told that the
lights (Eclipse Compact Flurescent) will not support liverock...I plan
to let the stand cycle for a month before I introduce critters into
it...or can I put snails...crabs in it to make it cycle faster?...the
set up didn't come with a testing ket..how long can I wait before I
test the water...also the heater that came with it is a Visi-Therm
submersible 50 watt..does that mean I can put the whole heater under
water..like put it behind a large rock? also do I need a prot.
skimmer..or should the water changes take care of it all?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20694 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
>
> This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
> knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have
a
> couple of comments below the list.
>
>
> Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
> D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus
[giant
> danio]
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
> D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
> D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio
[zebra
> or leopard danio]
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
> Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus
[Malabar
> danio]
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
> Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
> [Malabar danio] [Indian
glass
> barb]
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
> pathirana [barred danio]
> D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
> D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus
>
>
>
> Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new
name
> for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
> Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
> reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D.
frankei
> as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species
status
> may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be
trustworthy in
> this matter to contradict what I have found so far.
>
>
>
> As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I
do not
> find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
> constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
> research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably
follow
> up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a
bit
> skimpy.
>
>
>
> I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a
quick
> peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have
an
> idea or two about that).
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
> synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
> frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated
to
> species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
> rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
> extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
> as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
> genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
> literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
> only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
> us all nuts!
>
> Addendum:
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)
>
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)
>
> D. apogon (Chu 1981)
>
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)
>
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)
>
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)
>
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)
>
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)
>
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)
>
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
>
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)
>
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)
>
> D. regina (Fowler 1934)
>
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928)
>
> D. spinosis (Day 1870)
>
> There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --
>
> Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
> Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik
Red,
> Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
> D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
> 02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to
see
> half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
> being complete. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> > 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> > 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> > 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> > 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> > 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> > 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> > 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 10. Danio roseus
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> > To: Aquatic Life
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
> >
> > Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species
of
> danios, and what type of plants they like please.
> >
> > Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
> differnt species can be kept in one tank.
> >
> > Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
> >
> > And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Lisa
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20695 From: steve Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
is the visi-therm heater is it a stealth if so you can put it as far
under water as you want to but check to see if there is a distinct line
near the top of the heater where you adjust the tempature if the heater
look for a line and also if it is not completely submersible it will
say fill line on it but if it does not say fill line but you do see
lines maybe a couple inches down that is where you usually the suction
cups and don t put them below that line (i made that mistake once lol
it fries the clamp part of the suction cup)
as for you coral i never did coral before i only have fish and live
rock but i was told because i was thinking about it you need at least 2
watts per gallon and 3 watts per gallon is better so if you can find a
bulb between 24 and 36 watts you should be good
and i would say yes you need a protein skimmer but that is totally up
to you that is also another piece of equipment that people have mixed
feelings on just like the UV steralizer
good luck with the tank



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> I just got a Eclipse 12g with Bio Wheel filtration..my specific grav.
> is 1.022..have got 10# livesand...10# coral it it..I was told that
the
> lights (Eclipse Compact Flurescent) will not support liverock...I
plan
> to let the stand cycle for a month before I introduce critters into
> it...or can I put snails...crabs in it to make it cycle faster?...the
> set up didn't come with a testing ket..how long can I wait before I
> test the water...also the heater that came with it is a Visi-Therm
> submersible 50 watt..does that mean I can put the whole heater under
> water..like put it behind a large rock? also do I need a prot.
> skimmer..or should the water changes take care of it all?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20696 From: Julie Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
I does have a line, a mimium water level line..


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> is the visi-therm heater is it a stealth if so you can put it as
far
> under water as you want to but check to see if there is a distinct
line
> near the top of the heater where you adjust the tempature if the
heater
> look for a line and also if it is not completely submersible it
will
> say fill line on it but if it does not say fill line but you do see
> lines maybe a couple inches down that is where you usually the
suction
> cups and don t put them below that line (i made that mistake once
lol
> it fries the clamp part of the suction cup)
> as for you coral i never did coral before i only have fish and live
> rock but i was told because i was thinking about it you need at
least 2
> watts per gallon and 3 watts per gallon is better so if you can
find a
> bulb between 24 and 36 watts you should be good
> and i would say yes you need a protein skimmer but that is totally
up
> to you that is also another piece of equipment that people have
mixed
> feelings on just like the UV steralizer
> good luck with the tank
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> >
> > I just got a Eclipse 12g with Bio Wheel filtration..my specific
grav.
> > is 1.022..have got 10# livesand...10# coral it it..I was told
that
> the
> > lights (Eclipse Compact Flurescent) will not support liverock...I
> plan
> > to let the stand cycle for a month before I introduce critters
into
> > it...or can I put snails...crabs in it to make it cycle
faster?...the
> > set up didn't come with a testing ket..how long can I wait before
I
> > test the water...also the heater that came with it is a Visi-
Therm
> > submersible 50 watt..does that mean I can put the whole heater
under
> > water..like put it behind a large rock? also do I need a prot.
> > skimmer..or should the water changes take care of it all?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20697 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Ray,

First, Nelson. He does not make mention of any genus called Devario, at least as indexed in his book. A quick look through the Cyprinid listings does not show any mention of Devario. I do have an earlier edition of Nelson, but it wasn't were I thought it should be, so it will take some looking around here to located it (as usual, she has no idea of what I am talking about, and certainly, according to her, she did not move it). However, it does not look like the cyprinids were changed much, if at all.

It appears that the group is being studied by a group of splitters. It is probably just a matter of time before a lumper gets around to revising it again <g>.

I'm going to have to find dome passwords to get to some of the references you mentioned, and I'll peruse some of them this weekend. I'll probably also take a look at some of the stuff I have laying around here, quite possibly while I am looking for the older version of Nelson. (Though I may be called out to work on a server--I've been on the phone off an on all afternoon helping another tech with it.)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
>
> This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
> knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have
a
> couple of comments below the list.
>
>
> Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
> D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus
[giant
> danio]
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
> D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
> D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio
[zebra
> or leopard danio]
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
> Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus
[Malabar
> danio]
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
> Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
> [Malabar danio] [Indian
glass
> barb]
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
> pathirana [barred danio]
> D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
> D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus
>
>
>
> Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new
name
> for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
> Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
> reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D.
frankei
> as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species
status
> may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be
trustworthy in
> this matter to contradict what I have found so far.
>
>
>
> As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I
do not
> find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
> constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
> research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably
follow
> up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a
bit
> skimpy.
>
>
>
> I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a
quick
> peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have
an
> idea or two about that).
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
> synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
> frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated
to
> species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
> rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
> extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
> as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
> genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
> literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
> only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
> us all nuts!
>
> Addendum:
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)
>
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)
>
> D. apogon (Chu 1981)
>
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)
>
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)
>
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)
>
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)
>
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)
>
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)
>
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
>
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)
>
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)
>
> D. regina (Fowler 1934)
>
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928)
>
> D. spinosis (Day 1870)
>
> There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --
>
> Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
> Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik
Red,
> Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
> D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
> 02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to
see
> half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
> being complete. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> > 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> > 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> > 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> > 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> > 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> > 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> > 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 10. Danio roseus
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> > To: Aquatic Life
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
> >
> > Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species
of
> danios, and what type of plants they like please.
> >
> > Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
> differnt species can be kept in one tank.
> >
> > Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
> >
> > And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Lisa
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20698 From: Pickles Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Marine Book
Hi all,
With all this discussion about salt water tanks talking place I had a thought. I have always loved marine tanks. When I had the fish shop on occasion I ordered marine fish and live rock, back when you could get it...for customers....and I went to the salt water fish whole sale place many times, and got several books on the subject. Well, I never got the nerve up to ever start one....I still regret it...
But I still have the book The Marine Aquarium Handbook that I no longer need to keep.its in good used condition. its a paperback with no rips or tears the cover is slightly bent from reading...it has advice on setup, running and maintenance. Infact I had a few copies, but this is the only one I can find at the moment...
Here is an editorial review on the book and author:

Editorial Reviews

Book Description
A practical handbook on the theory and methods of keeping and breeding marine tropical fish. This updated and expanded edition describes the basic types of marine aquarium systems, with an emphasis on the traditional under gravel filter. Tank construction and selection, saltwater collection and makeup, filters and filtration, physics and chemistry, setup and maintenance, disease and treatment, foods and feeding, captive breeding Everything you need to know to set up and maintain a successful saltwater aquarium.

About the Author
Martin Moe is a professional marine biologist and commercial marine fish breeder. He is the author of several books and is internationally know for his contributions to the marine aquarium hobby.

if anyone is interested in it you can have it for $5 and that includes media mail shipping from Oregon, 97386...to the lower 49 anyway! I have more books on saltwater set ups , but I would have to look for them...Thanks...Mary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20699 From: Fred Rhoda Date: 2/3/2007
Subject: Re: Marine Book
Pickles:
I would be interested in the book -- the price is right. Please advise to: fredrhoda@... with your address and appx - shipping costs to - zip code: 43440 - located in Marblehead, Ohio.

Thanks , Fred.


----- Original Message -----
From: Pickles
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 6:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Marine Book


Hi all,
With all this discussion about salt water tanks talking place I had a thought. I have always loved marine tanks. When I had the fish shop on occasion I ordered marine fish and live rock, back when you could get it...for customers....and I went to the salt water fish whole sale place many times, and got several books on the subject. Well, I never got the nerve up to ever start one....I still regret it...
But I still have the book The Marine Aquarium Handbook that I no longer need to keep.its in good used condition. its a paperback with no rips or tears the cover is slightly bent from reading...it has advice on setup, running and maintenance. Infact I had a few copies, but this is the only one I can find at the moment...
Here is an editorial review on the book and author:

Editorial Reviews

Book Description
A practical handbook on the theory and methods of keeping and breeding marine tropical fish. This updated and expanded edition describes the basic types of marine aquarium systems, with an emphasis on the traditional under gravel filter. Tank construction and selection, saltwater collection and makeup, filters and filtration, physics and chemistry, setup and maintenance, disease and treatment, foods and feeding, captive breeding Everything you need to know to set up and maintain a successful saltwater aquarium.

About the Author
Martin Moe is a professional marine biologist and commercial marine fish breeder. He is the author of several books and is internationally know for his contributions to the marine aquarium hobby.

if anyone is interested in it you can have it for $5 and that includes media mail shipping from Oregon, 97386...to the lower 49 anyway! I have more books on saltwater set ups , but I would have to look for them...Thanks...Mary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.21/665 - Release Date: 2/2/2007 11:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20700 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
This is actually an aside to this thread. I know that there are probably a number of you out there who think that Ray and I are rather strange, delving into taxonomical issues like this, but hey, we are having fun (right Ray?).

The aside comes from some searches I have been doing into this topic. Apparently these fish carry, to some extent or another, a protein that is commonly known as the sonic hedgehog protein. Who says scientists do not have a sense of humor? One can only imagine how this term evolved (I did not let myself get waylaid into following up on this, though I may come back to it to see if it may be related to the differences in genera) but one can imagine. A scientist discovering a new protein in a fast fish, hmmmm, there is already a group called hedgehog, and this is related, must be a fast hedgehog--SONIC HEDGEHOG!

Well, probably time for me to go back to sleep so I can get my normal quota.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Ray,

First, Nelson. He does not make mention of any genus called Devario, at least as indexed in his book. A quick look through the Cyprinid listings does not show any mention of Devario. I do have an earlier edition of Nelson, but it wasn't were I thought it should be, so it will take some looking around here to located it (as usual, she has no idea of what I am talking about, and certainly, according to her, she did not move it). However, it does not look like the cyprinids were changed much, if at all.

It appears that the group is being studied by a group of splitters. It is probably just a matter of time before a lumper gets around to revising it again <g>.

I'm going to have to find dome passwords to get to some of the references you mentioned, and I'll peruse some of them this weekend. I'll probably also take a look at some of the stuff I have laying around here, quite possibly while I am looking for the older version of Nelson. (Though I may be called out to work on a server--I've been on the phone off an on all afternoon helping another tech with it.)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
>
> This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
> knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have
a
> couple of comments below the list.
>
>
> Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
> D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus
[giant
> danio]
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
> D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
> D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio
[zebra
> or leopard danio]
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
> Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus
[Malabar
> danio]
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
> Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
> [Malabar danio] [Indian
glass
> barb]
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
> pathirana [barred danio]
> D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
> D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus
>
>
>
> Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new
name
> for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
> Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
> reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D.
frankei
> as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species
status
> may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be
trustworthy in
> this matter to contradict what I have found so far.
>
>
>
> As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I
do not
> find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
> constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
> research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably
follow
> up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a
bit
> skimpy.
>
>
>
> I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a
quick
> peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have
an
> idea or two about that).
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
> synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
> frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated
to
> species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
> rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
> extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
> as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
> genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
> literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
> only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
> us all nuts!
>
> Addendum:
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)
>
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)
>
> D. apogon (Chu 1981)
>
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)
>
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)
>
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)
>
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)
>
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)
>
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)
>
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
>
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)
>
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)
>
> D. regina (Fowler 1934)
>
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928)
>
> D. spinosis (Day 1870)
>
> There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --
>
> Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
> Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik
Red,
> Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
> D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
> 02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to
see
> half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
> being complete. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> > 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> > 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> > 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> > 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> > 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> > 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> > 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 10. Danio roseus
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> > To: Aquatic Life
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
> >
> > Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species
of
> danios, and what type of plants they like please.
> >
> > Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
> differnt species can be kept in one tank.
> >
> > Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
> >
> > And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Lisa
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20701 From: steve Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
you should then be able to put it under water as far as you want

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@...> wrote:
>
> I does have a line, a mimium water level line..
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> > is the visi-therm heater is it a stealth if so you can put it as
> far
> > under water as you want to but check to see if there is a
distinct
> line
> > near the top of the heater where you adjust the tempature if the
> heater
> > look for a line and also if it is not completely submersible it
> will
> > say fill line on it but if it does not say fill line but you do
see
> > lines maybe a couple inches down that is where you usually the
> suction
> > cups and don t put them below that line (i made that mistake once
> lol
> > it fries the clamp part of the suction cup)
> > as for you coral i never did coral before i only have fish and
live
> > rock but i was told because i was thinking about it you need at
> least 2
> > watts per gallon and 3 watts per gallon is better so if you can
> find a
> > bulb between 24 and 36 watts you should be good
> > and i would say yes you need a protein skimmer but that is
totally
> up
> > to you that is also another piece of equipment that people have
> mixed
> > feelings on just like the UV steralizer
> > good luck with the tank
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie" <beachsidejuj@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I just got a Eclipse 12g with Bio Wheel filtration..my specific
> grav.
> > > is 1.022..have got 10# livesand...10# coral it it..I was told
> that
> > the
> > > lights (Eclipse Compact Flurescent) will not support
liverock...I
> > plan
> > > to let the stand cycle for a month before I introduce critters
> into
> > > it...or can I put snails...crabs in it to make it cycle
> faster?...the
> > > set up didn't come with a testing ket..how long can I wait
before
> I
> > > test the water...also the heater that came with it is a Visi-
> Therm
> > > submersible 50 watt..does that mean I can put the whole heater
> under
> > > water..like put it behind a large rock? also do I need a prot.
> > > skimmer..or should the water changes take care of it all?
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20702 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: gourami's
Hi Steve:

From your last response (thanks for the valuable feedback in both!),
we have no human kids here (just 4 dogs and an old cat), and the
adults are me and Bob who are pretty responsible enough not to throw
anything funky in the tanks.

The books that spoke of at least pairs for gouramis are "What Fish"
by Nick Fletcher, and "Tropical Freshwater Aquarium Fish" by
Barrons. Both say it. Also, the dwarfs consist of 2 flame
males. The female, although I cannot recall what her title is, also
a dwarf. She is a paler orange. I can get that info for you as it's
upstairs in my wallet.

Thanks, Steve!

Jeannie



At 10:41 AM 2/3/2007, you wrote:

>Which book did you read that in (gouramis need company of their species)?
>
>By dwarf gourami, I take it to mean you have color varieties of
>_Colisa lalia_. That same book probably told you they were timid
>fish, didn't it? Don't worry, they all do. However, if they are
>properly kept, they are far from timid. They will rule the tank. I
>kept a couple pair in a 55 gallon tank. They spent most of the time
>in the plants, but when they came out into the swimming area,
>everyone made room for them, and either went to the ends of the tank
>or into the planted areas of the tank. Errant fish would be herded
>out of the way by the gouramis, but I never saw any real damage
>done. There was also the occasional tiff between the gouramis themselves.
>
>I've also witnessed this behavior in smaller tanks as well. Give
>them some heavily planted areas where they can spend most of their
>time, and they should do fine, and you will witness behavior not
>seen in a relatively bare tank. In the bare tank, they will then
>exhibit the behavior often talked about in the books. Unless you get
>a real bad actor, they should not do any outright harm to the other
>inhabitants in the tank. The harassment will mainly consist of
>chasing rather than nipping. You'll probably want to add another
>female to the mix so you have two pair and no odd man out type of behavior.
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20703 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Java moss
Good morning,

I just added some java moss to my 20G freshwater tank. I loosely
secured it to a piece of driftwood with some thread. What special
precautions do I need to take to insure that it grows well? I have
tried growing it before, with no luck. I have a twin 65W, 6500k and
10,000k fluorescent fixture above the tank, but only use the 10,000k.
The tank has a CO2 system and I keep the pH at about 6.8. I am trying
to get a cover growing on some of the bare wood, and this moss is
supposed to give off those wonderful oxygen bubbles. No bubbles, no
growth.

Any suggestions welcome!

Thanks,

Ryan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20704 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Did you find it funny because you knew Sonic the Hedgehog is a children’s
video game character from years ago?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios



This is actually an aside to this thread. I know that there are probably a
number of you out there who think that Ray and I are rather strange, delving
into taxonomical issues like this, but hey, we are having fun (right Ray?).

The aside comes from some searches I have been doing into this topic.
Apparently these fish carry, to some extent or another, a protein that is
commonly known as the sonic hedgehog protein. Who says scientists do not
have a sense of humor? One can only imagine how this term evolved (I did not
let myself get waylaid into following up on this, though I may come back to
it to see if it may be related to the differences in genera) but one can
imagine. A scientist discovering a new protein in a fast fish, hmmmm, there
is already a group called hedgehog, and this is related, must be a fast
hedgehog--SONIC HEDGEHOG!

Well, probably time for me to go back to sleep so I can get my normal quota.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Ray,

First, Nelson. He does not make mention of any genus called Devario, at
least as indexed in his book. A quick look through the Cyprinid listings
does not show any mention of Devario. I do have an earlier edition of
Nelson, but it wasn't were I thought it should be, so it will take some
looking around here to located it (as usual, she has no idea of what I am
talking about, and certainly, according to her, she did not move it).
However, it does not look like the cyprinids were changed much, if at all.

It appears that the group is being studied by a group of splitters. It is
probably just a matter of time before a lumper gets around to revising it
again <g>.

I'm going to have to find dome passwords to get to some of the references
you mentioned, and I'll peruse some of them this weekend. I'll probably also
take a look at some of the stuff I have laying around here, quite possibly
while I am looking for the older version of Nelson. (Though I may be called
out to work on a server--I've been on the phone off an on all afternoon
helping another tech with it.)

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
>
> This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
> knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have
a
> couple of comments below the list.
>
>
> Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
> D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus
[giant
> danio]
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
> D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
> D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio
[zebra
> or leopard danio]
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
> Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus
[Malabar
> danio]
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
> Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
> [Malabar danio] [Indian
glass
> barb]
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
> pathirana [barred danio]
> D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
> D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus
>
>
>
> Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new
name
> for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
> Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
> reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D.
frankei
> as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species
status
> may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be
trustworthy in
> this matter to contradict what I have found so far.
>
>
>
> As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I
do not
> find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
> constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
> research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably
follow
> up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a
bit
> skimpy.
>
>
>
> I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a
quick
> peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have
an
> idea or two about that).
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
> synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
> frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated
to
> species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
> rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
> extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
> as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
> genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
> literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
> only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
> us all nuts!
>
> Addendum:
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)
>
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)
>
> D. apogon (Chu 1981)
>
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)
>
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)
>
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)
>
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)
>
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)
>
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)
>
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
>
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)
>
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)
>
> D. regina (Fowler 1934)
>
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928)
>
> D. spinosis (Day 1870)
>
> There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --
>
> Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
> Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik
Red,
> Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
> D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
> 02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to
see
> half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
> being complete. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> > 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> > 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> > 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> > 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> > 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> > 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> > 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 10. Danio roseus
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> > To: Aquatic Life
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
> >
> > Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species
of
> danios, and what type of plants they like please.
> >
> > Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
> differnt species can be kept in one tank.
> >
> > Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
> >
> > And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Lisa
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20705 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
What nutrients does your tank water have? Do you ever use a fertilizer
or iron supplement? Often there will not be enough nutrients in a tank
to support growth from plants.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20706 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
I use blackwater supplement, Flourish once a week, and a thick layer
of planting substrate with Laterite. What do you suggest for weekly
dosages? I am erring on the side of the minimum recommended on the
packages. Thanks.

Ryan









On Feb 4, 2007, at 10:08 AM, cynthia brennemann wrote:

> What nutrients does your tank water have? Do you ever use a fertilizer
> or iron supplement? Often there will not be enough nutrients in a tank
> to support growth from plants.
>
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20707 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Yes, that is what gave me a laugh this morning. Here is a bit more on
the hedgehog protein names:

Sonic hedgehog is, in fact, named after the character from the popular
Sega Genesis video game. The original hedgehog gene was found in
Drosophila and was named for the appearance of the mutant phenotype
which causes an embryo to be covered with pointy denticles resembling a
hedgehog. The first two homologues of hedgehog were named after species
of hedgehog and the third was named after the video game character
(Gilbert, 2000).

Gilbert, S.F. (2000). Developmental Biology (Sunderland, Massachusetts:
Sinauer Associates, Inc., Publishers).

Your question made me do a quick search on it, to see what was
available.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Did you find it funny because you knew Sonic the Hedgehog is a
children's
video game character from years ago?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 7:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios



This is actually an aside to this thread. I know that there are probably
a
number of you out there who think that Ray and I are rather strange,
delving
into taxonomical issues like this, but hey, we are having fun (right
Ray?).

The aside comes from some searches I have been doing into this topic.
Apparently these fish carry, to some extent or another, a protein that
is
commonly known as the sonic hedgehog protein. Who says scientists do not
have a sense of humor? One can only imagine how this term evolved (I did
not
let myself get waylaid into following up on this, though I may come back
to
it to see if it may be related to the differences in genera) but one can
imagine. A scientist discovering a new protein in a fast fish, hmmmm,
there
is already a group called hedgehog, and this is related, must be a fast
hedgehog--SONIC HEDGEHOG!

Well, probably time for me to go back to sleep so I can get my normal
quota.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Ray,

First, Nelson. He does not make mention of any genus called Devario, at
least as indexed in his book. A quick look through the Cyprinid listings
does not show any mention of Devario. I do have an earlier edition of
Nelson, but it wasn't were I thought it should be, so it will take some
looking around here to located it (as usual, she has no idea of what I
am
talking about, and certainly, according to her, she did not move it).
However, it does not look like the cyprinids were changed much, if at
all.

It appears that the group is being studied by a group of splitters. It
is
probably just a matter of time before a lumper gets around to revising
it
again <g>.

I'm going to have to find dome passwords to get to some of the
references
you mentioned, and I'll peruse some of them this weekend. I'll probably
also
take a look at some of the stuff I have laying around here, quite
possibly
while I am looking for the older version of Nelson. (Though I may be
called
out to work on a server--I've been on the phone off an on all afternoon
helping another tech with it.)

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
>
> This might get a bit tough for most, but here, to the best of my
> knowledge, are the valid names of the species you listed. I'll have
a
> couple of comments below the list.
>
>
> Your name first, valid name second, (common name) if available.
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921) Devario acuticephala
> D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839) Devario aequipinnatus
[giant
> danio]
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908) Devario annandalei
> D. apogon (Chu 1981) Devario apogon
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981) Devario chrysotaeniatus
> D. frankei (Meinken 1963) Danio rerio
[zebra
> or leopard danio]
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935) Devario fraseri
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879) Devario kakhienensis
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940) Devario laoensis
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997) Devario maetaengensis
> Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) Devario malabaricus
[Malabar
> danio]
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985) Danio dangila
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
> Devario malabaricus Chela laubuca
> [Malabar danio] [Indian
glass
> barb]
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964) Barilius barnoides
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912) Devario naganensis
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990) Devario
> pathirana [barred danio]
> D. regina (Fowler 1934) Devario regina
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928) Devario shanensis [Hora danio]
> D. spinosis (Day 1870) Devario spinosus
>
>
>
> Other than mostly hobbyist lists, I don't see any validity to a new
name
> for the commonly known leopard danio. In the Integrated Taxonomic
> Information System (ITIS), no mention of a frankei is made with
> reference to any danio or related species. fishbase.org lists D.
frankei
> as a synonym of D. rerio. That the leopard has attained a species
status
> may be true, but I cannot find a reference that would be
trustworthy in
> this matter to contradict what I have found so far.
>
>
>
> As far as Danio menoni being a junior synonym for D. micronema, I
do not
> find that to be true in fishbase.org or ITIS. I do have certain time
> constraints today, so I haven't gone any further than that with the
> research. If you can give me a reference or two, I can probably
follow
> up on this over the weekend. The information I have appears to be a
bit
> skimpy.
>
>
>
> I have just obtained the Fourth Edition of Nelson, so I may take a
quick
> peruse when I go down to eat in a few minutes (though she may have
an
> idea or two about that).
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Easily overlooked on this list was Danio malabaricus (Jerdon 1849) -
> synonym - D. aequipinnatus (McClelland 1839), the Giant Danio and D.
> frankei (Meinken 1963), the Leopard Danio (which has been elevated
to
> species status from originally being described as a variation of D.
> rerio) as even though they are popular the list of Danios is quite
> extensive. We can add to this list with the following names which,
> as far as I know, are not synonyms for anything else, although the
> genus name of Devario appears to be used synonymously in scientific
> literature with many of these. Then too, names keep changing not
> only in this Family but in many other Families as well, which drives
> us all nuts!
>
> Addendum:
>
> Danio acuticephala (Hora 1921)
>
> D. annandalei (Chaudhuri 1908)
>
> D. apogon (Chu 1981)
>
> D, chrysotaeniatus (Chu 1981)
>
> D. fraseri (Hora & Mukerji 1935)
>
> D. kakhienensis (Anderson 1879)
>
> D. laoensis (Pellegrin & Fang 1940)
>
> D. maetaengensis (Fang 1997)
>
> D. meghalayensis (Sen & Day 1985)
>
> D. micronema (Bleeker 1863) -- Jr. Syn. D. menoni (Barman 1986)
>
> D. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis (Chaudhuri 1912)
>
> D. pathirana (Kottelat & Pethiygota 1990)
>
> D. regina (Fowler 1934)
>
> D. shanensis (Hora 1928)
>
> D. spinosis (Day 1870)
>
> There are a number of species yet unnamed; among them --
>
> Danio sp. "Blue - Red Stripe," D. sp. "Browni," D. sp. "Burmese Blue
> Moon," D. Sp, "Cresendo," D. sp. "Hikari - Burma," D. sp. "Marik
Red,
> Assamensis," D. sp. "Red Fin - affinis Kyathit," D. sp. "Shanensis,"
> D. sp. "KP-01 Burma Zebra," D. sp. "TW-01 Black Barred," D. sp. "TW-
> 02 Burma," and D. sp. "TW-03 Pantheri." We probably won't get to
see
> half (if that) of these in the trade, neither is this list near to
> being complete. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > 1. Danio albolineatus (Blyth, 1860)
> > 2. Danio choprai Hora, 1928
> > 3. Danio dangila (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 4. Danio feegradei Hora, 1937
> > 5. Danio kerri Smith, 1931
> > 6. Danio kyathit Fang, 1998
> > 7. Danio muongthanhensis Nguyen, 2001
> > 8. Danio nigrofasciatus (Day, 1870)
> > 9. Danio rerio (Hamilton, 1822)
> > 10. Danio roseus
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 7:45 PM
> > To: Aquatic Life
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Danios
> >
> > Could someone please tell me a list of all the different species
of
> danios, and what type of plants they like please.
> >
> > Which ones can be keep together? I've been told that only some
> differnt species can be kept in one tank.
> >
> > Has anyone had any 'issues' with combining different species?
> >
> > And can new danios be added to an established danio community?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> > Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20708 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Java moss
Hm...Not sure why you are having trouble. Are you by any chance using
an algae killer in your tank?

> I use blackwater supplement, Flourish once a week, and a thick layer
> of planting substrate with Laterite. What do you suggest for weekly
> dosages? I am erring on the side of the minimum recommended on the
> packages. Thanks.
>
> Ryan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20709 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Ray,

There is a ton of stuff out there referring to Danionins. A lot of it is
not relevant to this discussion which poor Lisa started with a (I'm sure
she thought) simple question asking for a list of Danios. And, we have
not even touched on the kind of plants they are found with portion of
the question (really Lisa, most any plants will do, you'll probably have
a tough time finding plants from the home areas of the Danios anyway).

From a pretty unlikely source, I have found the most comprehensive list
yet. The source is Enpsychlopedia, which, you can probably guess, really
has nothing to do with fish per se, but mental health. (Perhaps they are
worried about the mental health of people like Ray and myself <g>.)

Anyhow, here is the listing they provide:

Danios
* Danio albolineatus - Pearl Danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
* Danio abolineatus var pulcher - Blue-Redstripe Danio - (5 cm/ 2
in)
* Danio abolineatus var tweediei - Kedah Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
* Danio choprai - Glowlight Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
* Danio dangila - Moustached danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
* Danio feegradei - Yoma Danio - (8 cm/ 3 in)
* Danio kerri - Blue Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
* Danio kyathit var spotted - Orange Finned Leopard Danio - (6 cm/
2.5 in)
* Danio kyathit var striped - Orange Finned Zebra Danio - (6 cm/ 2.5
in)
* Danio meghalayensis - Meghalaya Danio - (9 cm/ 4 in)
* Danio nigrofasciatus - Spotted Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
* Danio roseus - Rose Danio - (6cm/ 2.5 in)
* Danio rerio - Zebra danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
* Danio rerio var frankei - Leopard Danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
* Danio sp aff kerri - Hikari Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
* Danio sp aff kyathit - Redfin Danio - (6 cm/ 2.5 in)
* Danio sp "TW02" - Burma Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
* Danio sp "TW03" - Panther Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)

Devarios
* Devario aequipinnatus - Giant Danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
* Devario affinis
* Devario chrysotaeniatus
* Devario browni - (8 cm/ 3.5 in)
* Devario annandalei
* Devario devario - Bengal Danio or Sind Danio (15 cm/ 6 in)
* Devario Maetangensis - Fire Bar Danio - (7 cm/ 2.75 in)
* Devario laoensis - (8 cm/ 3 in)
* Devario malabaricus - Malabar Danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
* Devario pathirana - Barred Danio - (6 cm/ 2 in)
* Devario regina - Queen Danio - (13 cm/ 5 in)
* Devario shanensis - (7 cm/ 2.75 in)
* Devario strigillifer
* Devario sp "Broken Line"
* Devario acrostomus
* Devario acuticephala
* Devario apogon
* Devario apopyris
* Devario assamensis
* Devario fangfangae
* Devario fraseri
* Devario gibber
* Devario horai
* Devario interruptus
* Devario kakhienensis
* Devario leptos
* Devario manipurensis
* Devario naganensis
* Devario neilgherriensis
* Devario peninsulae
* Devario quangbinhensis
* Devario salmonata
* Devario sondhii
* Devario spinosus
* Devario suvatti
* Devario yuensis

Tanichthys
* Tanichthys albonubes - White Cloud Mountain Minnow - (6 cm/ 2 in)
* Tanichthys micagemmae - Vietnamese Cardinal Minnow - (5 cm/ 1.75
in)

Esomus (closely related to the Danio genus)
* Esomus ahli
* Esomus altus
* Esomus barbatus - South Indian Flying Barb
* Esomus caudiocellatus
* Esomus danricus - Flying Barb
* Esomus lineatus - Striped Flying Barb
* Esomus longimanus - Mekong Flying Barb
* Esomus malabaricus
* Esomus malayensis - Malayan Flying Barb
* Esomus manipurensis
* Esomus metallicus - Striped Flying Barb
* Esomus thermoicos

Chela (closely related to the Devario genus)
* Chela cachius
* Chela caeruleostigmata - Leaping Barb
* Chela dadiburjori - Dadio
* Chela fasciata
* Chela laubuca - Indian Glass Barb
* Chela maassi

Parachela (closely related to the Chela and Devario genuses)
* Parachela cyanea
* Parachela hypophthalmus
* Parachela ingerkongi
* Parachela maculicauda
* Parachela oxygastroides - Glass Fish
* Parachela siamensis
* Parachela williaminae

Inlecypris (closely related to the Devario genus)
* Inlecypris jayarami
* Inlecypris auropurpurea

The following are thought to be Danionins closely related to Danio and
Devario, but too little is known about them to confirm this.

Danionella
* Danionella mirifica (1.4 cm/ 0.75 in)
* Danionella translucida (1.1 cm/ 0.5 in)
* Several other as yet unnamed Danionella species have very recently
been discovered.

Microrasbora
* Microrasbora erythromicron
* Microrasbora gatesi
* Microrasbora kubotai
* Microrasbora nana
* Microrasbora rubescens

Sundadanio
* Sundadanio axelrodi

There are tons of links here for the fish, with descriptions. Naturally,
most of these are not available in the hobby, though, if you know the
right person, you can probably find the ones that are not generally
available.

The link to the page is http://enpsychlopedia.org/psypsych/Danionin

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the two
extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2") to
15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of the
fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less are
seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along with
your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
seems Danio is still being used by some.

As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio," is
often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place of
D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.

While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use the
abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who may
be interested in a common name:

D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio

D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio

D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio

D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio

D. dangila -- Moustached Danio

D. frankei -- Leopard Danio

D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio

D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio

D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio

D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio

D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio

D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio

D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)

Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)

D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio

D. pathirana -- Barred Danio

D. regina -- Queen Danio

D. shanensis -- Shan Danio

In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.

Some of the references used were:

Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus Danio
4:714-728 Fang 2003

Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman 1991

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang &
Kottelat 1999

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000

Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997

California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -
pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999

Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology of
the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
McCune 2002

Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995

While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything further,
forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray

------------------<snip>--------------------
[I have deleted the rest of the posts included here for brevity.]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20710 From: Pickles Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: more fish books
Hi all,
I am going through all my stuff as we are planning a move in the next couple of months..I found these books on fish that I will offer this group before putting them on my pet book lists where I am listing all my dog, bird, cat, horse books and magazines that I need to sell before the move...What a job!! lol
I prefer a money order from the Post Office or well hidden cash....
They are all in very good condition. I'll put pics in photo section of the list...Thanks ...Mary

The First two are Barrons paper backs the kinds you find in pet shops that charge upwards of $12

$3- (includes Media mail shipping) Cichlids by Michele Earle-Bridges & David Wenzel lots of color photos and how to's from buying to tank set ups , nutrition,reproduction and behavior etc

$3- (includes Media mail shipping)Tropical Fish by Helga Braemer and Ines Scheurmann, color photos, set up, species, plants etc...

$8 - (includes Media mail shipping from zip 97386 ) All about tropical Fish 4th Edition by Derek McInerny & Geoffery Gerard completely revised by Dr. Chris Andrews including small section on Marine fish. Its a Hard back retailed for $29.95 has dust jacket, like New condition, just normal shelf wear..480 pages..its a Complete Guide on Tropical Fish, care and feeding, tank construction, 300 illustrations, 140 color plates etc..it weighs in at 3lbs !

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20711 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/4/2007
Subject: odd happenings in tanks..
_http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/humour/Thomas_XFiles.html_
(http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/humour/Thomas_XFiles.html)

just some fun stories.. Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20712 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Steve, Yes, that's for sure -- I came across oodles of information
on Danionins, which is why I said I had to browse through the stuff
(in order to find info related to this topic, in a timely manner).
Er, uh, by the way, what was the original topic Lisa was looking to
know about (LOL)? Well, its always fun (for us) looking through
scientific literature as for one thing, you often pick up tid bits
that you may not have previously known about.

Looks like you've come up with a most comprehensive list of these
guys, but it appears as though you may have forgotten one, didn't you
(LOL LOL). It does look like you went to the right source though; I
presume you had me in mind (LOL), with the sanity issue.

Just to touch on a few aquatic plants Lisa can use for an India -
S.E. Asian biotope, I'll mention a few but will keep things simple
even though there are a good number of plants which can be used.
Since many of these groups have distributions of various species
pretty much world-wide, I'll narrow it down in most cases to those
found primarily in the region, being somewhat specific, which will
make for some nice aquascaping of such an area.

Some plants that could be included with the fish species of
discussion here are Hydrilla verticillata, Barclaya longifolia,
Ludwigia glandulosa, various Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora and L.
indica), some Hygrophila (H. polysprema and H. difformis - Wisteria),
Rotalla, such as R. wallachii and R. indica), and most any of the
Cryptocorynes, if (which I gather) a regional tank is the objective.
I don't believe Java fern is found on the mainland, nor is Java Moss,
but I could be wrong.

As for mixing of the species, if you goal is not to breed them, most
any of these species can be intermixed, preferably keeping them all
around the same size (they will interbreed, however, if given the
chance). Most will inhabit the same niche of stratum in the
aquarium, which is also something to keep in mind; usually just below
the surface. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> There is a ton of stuff out there referring to Danionins. A lot of
it is
> not relevant to this discussion which poor Lisa started with a (I'm
sure
> she thought) simple question asking for a list of Danios. And, we
have
> not even touched on the kind of plants they are found with portion
of
> the question (really Lisa, most any plants will do, you'll probably
have
> a tough time finding plants from the home areas of the Danios
anyway).
>
> From a pretty unlikely source, I have found the most comprehensive
list
> yet. The source is Enpsychlopedia, which, you can probably guess,
really
> has nothing to do with fish per se, but mental health. (Perhaps
they are
> worried about the mental health of people like Ray and myself <g>.)
>
> Anyhow, here is the listing they provide:
>
> Danios
> * Danio albolineatus - Pearl Danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
> * Danio abolineatus var pulcher - Blue-Redstripe Danio - (5 cm/
2
> in)
> * Danio abolineatus var tweediei - Kedah Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
> * Danio choprai - Glowlight Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
> * Danio dangila - Moustached danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
> * Danio feegradei - Yoma Danio - (8 cm/ 3 in)
> * Danio kerri - Blue Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
> * Danio kyathit var spotted - Orange Finned Leopard Danio - (6
cm/
> 2.5 in)
> * Danio kyathit var striped - Orange Finned Zebra Danio - (6
cm/ 2.5
> in)
> * Danio meghalayensis - Meghalaya Danio - (9 cm/ 4 in)
> * Danio nigrofasciatus - Spotted Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
> * Danio roseus - Rose Danio - (6cm/ 2.5 in)
> * Danio rerio - Zebra danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
> * Danio rerio var frankei - Leopard Danio -(6 cm/ 2.5 in)
> * Danio sp aff kerri - Hikari Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
> * Danio sp aff kyathit - Redfin Danio - (6 cm/ 2.5 in)
> * Danio sp "TW02" - Burma Danio - (4 cm/ 1.25 in)
> * Danio sp "TW03" - Panther Danio - (5 cm/ 2 in)
>
> Devarios
> * Devario aequipinnatus - Giant Danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
> * Devario affinis
> * Devario chrysotaeniatus
> * Devario browni - (8 cm/ 3.5 in)
> * Devario annandalei
> * Devario devario - Bengal Danio or Sind Danio (15 cm/ 6 in)
> * Devario Maetangensis - Fire Bar Danio - (7 cm/ 2.75 in)
> * Devario laoensis - (8 cm/ 3 in)
> * Devario malabaricus - Malabar Danio - (15 cm/ 6 in)
> * Devario pathirana - Barred Danio - (6 cm/ 2 in)
> * Devario regina - Queen Danio - (13 cm/ 5 in)
> * Devario shanensis - (7 cm/ 2.75 in)
> * Devario strigillifer
> * Devario sp "Broken Line"
> * Devario acrostomus
> * Devario acuticephala
> * Devario apogon
> * Devario apopyris
> * Devario assamensis
> * Devario fangfangae
> * Devario fraseri
> * Devario gibber
> * Devario horai
> * Devario interruptus
> * Devario kakhienensis
> * Devario leptos
> * Devario manipurensis
> * Devario naganensis
> * Devario neilgherriensis
> * Devario peninsulae
> * Devario quangbinhensis
> * Devario salmonata
> * Devario sondhii
> * Devario spinosus
> * Devario suvatti
> * Devario yuensis
>
> Tanichthys
> * Tanichthys albonubes - White Cloud Mountain Minnow - (6 cm/ 2
in)
> * Tanichthys micagemmae - Vietnamese Cardinal Minnow - (5 cm/
1.75
> in)
>
> Esomus (closely related to the Danio genus)
> * Esomus ahli
> * Esomus altus
> * Esomus barbatus - South Indian Flying Barb
> * Esomus caudiocellatus
> * Esomus danricus - Flying Barb
> * Esomus lineatus - Striped Flying Barb
> * Esomus longimanus - Mekong Flying Barb
> * Esomus malabaricus
> * Esomus malayensis - Malayan Flying Barb
> * Esomus manipurensis
> * Esomus metallicus - Striped Flying Barb
> * Esomus thermoicos
>
> Chela (closely related to the Devario genus)
> * Chela cachius
> * Chela caeruleostigmata - Leaping Barb
> * Chela dadiburjori - Dadio
> * Chela fasciata
> * Chela laubuca - Indian Glass Barb
> * Chela maassi
>
> Parachela (closely related to the Chela and Devario genuses)
> * Parachela cyanea
> * Parachela hypophthalmus
> * Parachela ingerkongi
> * Parachela maculicauda
> * Parachela oxygastroides - Glass Fish
> * Parachela siamensis
> * Parachela williaminae
>
> Inlecypris (closely related to the Devario genus)
> * Inlecypris jayarami
> * Inlecypris auropurpurea
>
> The following are thought to be Danionins closely related to Danio
and
> Devario, but too little is known about them to confirm this.
>
> Danionella
> * Danionella mirifica (1.4 cm/ 0.75 in)
> * Danionella translucida (1.1 cm/ 0.5 in)
> * Several other as yet unnamed Danionella species have very
recently
> been discovered.
>
> Microrasbora
> * Microrasbora erythromicron
> * Microrasbora gatesi
> * Microrasbora kubotai
> * Microrasbora nana
> * Microrasbora rubescens
>
> Sundadanio
> * Sundadanio axelrodi
>
> There are tons of links here for the fish, with descriptions.
Naturally,
> most of these are not available in the hobby, though, if you know
the
> right person, you can probably find the ones that are not generally
> available.
>
> The link to the page is http://enpsychlopedia.org/psypsych/Danionin
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 2:48 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, From what I continue to see in scientific literature on
> Danionins, it appears as if both "Danio" and "Devario" are still
> being used interchangeably, even though it would seen that there
> should be only one valid name (for any species). I believe part of
> the problem may come down to there being a thin line between the
two
> extremely closely related groups in meeting the criteria in the
> nomenclature of them by various authors. The general requirements
> seem to be that Devario are deeper bodied fish, most often with a
> barred pattern (but can be horizontal striped), having short to
> rudimentary barbels and attaining a size anywhere from 5 cm. (2")
to
> 15 cm. (6"); this takes in a lot of overlapping on both sides of
the
> fence, as on some accounts fish that are described as Devarios by
> some authors may be smaller than some recognized Danios, and even
> have a lined pattern (and may be equally less deep-bodied). Of
> course these are superficial characteristics, but never-the-less
are
> seriously taken into account to divide these two subclades, in
> literature cited below. Again, from what I've read, I go along
with
> your stand on some of these now being decribed as Devarios, but it
> seems Danio is still being used by some.
>
> As to the below list of species here included, many actually have
> universally accepted common names; curiously, the suffix "Danio,"
is
> often used even though common names have no scientific standing. I
> notiice you've substituted Danio dangila (Hamilton 1822) in place
of
> D. meghalayensis. The Dangila clade actually consists of five
> recognized species (2 yet unnamed); they consist of D. danglia, D.
> feegradei, D. meghalayensis, D. sp. TW-01 and D. sp. KP-01.
>
> While I have seen accounts of these particular below listed species
> referred to as Devario in some literature, the genus Danio is also
> found in other literature, as previously mentioned I'll just use
the
> abbreviation here for a list of names known, for those people who
may
> be interested in a common name:
>
> D. acuticephala -- Sharp-Headed Danio
>
> D. aequipinnatus -- Giant Danio
>
> D. annandalei -- Annandale's Giant Danio
>
> D. chrysotaeniatus -- Gold Striped Danio
>
> D. dangila -- Moustached Danio
>
> D. frankei -- Leopard Danio
>
> D. fraseri -- Fraser's Danio
>
> D. kahienensis -- Kakhyen Hills Danio
>
> D. laoensis -- Laos Giant Danio
>
> D. maetaengensis -- Fire Bar Danio
>
> D. malabaricus -- Malabar Danio
>
> D. meghalayensis -- Meghalya Danio
>
> D. menoni -- Chela laubuca (Indian Glass Barb)
>
> Danio monshiensis -- Syn. Barilius (Barbus) barila (Hamilton 1822),
> B. barnoides (Vinciguerra 1890), B. monshiensis (Yang & Hwang 1964)
>
> D. naganensis -- Naga Hills Danio
>
> D. pathirana -- Barred Danio
>
> D. regina -- Queen Danio
>
> D. shanensis -- Shan Danio
>
> In attempting to "research" my research on Danio menoni, I cannot
> relocate a reference to it as being a Jr. synonym for D. micronema
> and will go along with the same finding as you have come up with,
> that it is now the Indian Glass Barb. I did come up with D.
> micronema as being a synonym for D. malibaricus however. Note that
> Danio monshiensis is now Barilius monshiensis.
>
> Some of the references used were:
>
> Copeia -- Phylogenetic Analysis of the Asian Cyprinidid genus
Danio
> 4:714-728 Fang 2003
>
> Zoological Survey of India Publications -- A Taxonomic Revision of
> the Indo-Burmese species of Danio - (Hamilton, Buchannan) Barman
1991
>
> Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Axial Skeleton,
> South and Southeast Asian Cyprinid genus Danio - (Abstract) Hamilton
>
> Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio Species from
> Northern Laos, with descriptions of 3 New Sopecies 10:281-295 Fang
&
> Kottelat 1999
>
> Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio roseus; A new
> species from the Mekong Basin in Northeastern Thailand and
> Northwestern Laos - Fang & Kottelat 2000
>
> Ichthyological Exploration of Freshwaters -- Danio maetaengensis, a
> new species of Cyprinid fish from the Irrawaddy Basin - Fang 1997
>
> California Academy of Sciences -- The Fishes of the Kashmir Valley -

> pgs. 99-167 (River Jhelum, Kashmir Valley; Impacts on the Aquatic
> Environment) Kullander, Fang, Delling & Ahlander 1999
>
> Zoological Journal of the Linnaen Society -- Comparitive Osteology
of
> the Danio (Cyprinidae: Ostariophysi) Axial Skeleton with Danio
> relations based on Molecules and Morphology - 135: 529-546 Sanger &
> McCune 2002
>
> Abstract -- Predicting Development Processes from Evolutionary
> Patterns; A Molecular Phylogeny of the Zebrafish (Danio rerio) and
> its Relatives - Myer, Ritchie & Witte 1995
>
> While much of the info was not pertinent to our subject matter, in
> browsing through, the material was still interesting -- and that's
> more or less what I found necessary to do; browse. Anything
further,
> forthcoming of Nelson would be of the greatest interest. Ray
>
> ------------------<snip>--------------------
> [I have deleted the rest of the posts included here for brevity.]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20713 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: odd happenings in tanks..
Heheh...I've had a few of those twilight zone moments, myself. My two
favorites were the glass shrimp that hatched in my tank from nowhere
while it was cycling, and my disappearing/reappearing betta fry.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20714 From: Kevin Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Where to get plants
Does anyone here sell, or know a good place to order plants? I need
some nice groundcover, and maybe some stuff with purples and
reds-though i'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
Oh- and riccia.
Thanks,
kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20715 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20716 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
I think I should inform you that I just received a shipment from
aquariumgarden.com and it is seven degrees outside. The plants are
in perfect condition, and there are at least eight plants over my
order in with the others...and not cheapo plants, either! They had
to short me one giant hairgrass, so they made up for it by giving me
a clump of several madagascar lace, an extra ozelot sword, some
beautiful crypts, and at least one extra of everything else I
ordered, even though the hairgrass is not that expensive a plant.

The plants are beautiful, no spots of fungus or yellow on them at
all. I highly recommend these guys. It's not hard to ship during
mild weather, but during this sort of weather it is impressive.

> http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/
>
> http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index.php?
> doc_base=listings/potted_plants.php
>
> http://www.plantgeek.net/
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20717 From: steve Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: cool
someone made my pic the group home pic
thanks for whoever did it
just try to ignore the algae on the back wall
lol
maybe time for an algae eater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20718 From: steve Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: cool
someone also did a good job of editing it also or at least cutting the
picture out too
way to go


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> someone made my pic the group home pic
> thanks for whoever did it
> just try to ignore the algae on the back wall
> lol
> maybe time for an algae eater
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20719 From: mellowtipi Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Will Koi eat guppies?
We have two six inch Koi in a stock tank. Will they eat Guppies if in
the tank with them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20720 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: Will Koi eat guppies?
Well considering that all fish would eat anything they can get their mouths on. Since Koi get a couple of feet long and the guppies only 2 inches. Also different water needs I would say yes.

----- Original Message ----
From: mellowtipi <mellowtipi@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 6, 2007 1:49:13 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Will Koi eat guppies?













We have two six inch Koi in a stock tank. Will they eat Guppies if in

the tank with them?














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____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20721 From: AquaticLife Date: 2/5/2007
Subject: Re: New poll for AquaticLife
Hi All,

Wow, 13% of the respondants have been in the hobby for 35 to 40 years
& 4% for 50+ Years. That's a lot of experience to share with all the
newer aquarists.


Only 44 votes so far, if you haven't already - please take a minute
to participate, thank you.


And please vote in the other on-going polls, like:

How many aquariums do you have running?

Which title or titles best describe you...


Thanks again to everybody who has helped make this such a great group
to be a part of.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com wrote:
>
>
> Enter your vote today! A new poll has been created for the
> AquaticLife group:
>
> How long have you been interested in Aquatic Life?
>
> That is, approximately for how much time now have you been
> involved with the various aspects of the Aquarium hobby?
>
> And please, if you've not taken the the chance to already,
> vote in the other polls so that we can see what your intrests
> are and how many tanks you currently have going.
>
> Thank you
>
> o 1 month or less
> o 2 to 3 months
> o 3 to 6 months
> o 6 to 9 months
> o 9 months to 1 year
> o 1 to 2 years
> o 2 to 3 years
> o 3 to 4 years
> o 4 to 5 years
> o 5 to 6 years
> o 6 to 7 years
> o 7 to 8 years
> o 8 to 9 years
> o 9 to 10 years
> o 10 to 11 years
> o 11 to 12 years
> o 12 to 15 years
> o 15 to 20 years
> o 20 to 25 years
> o 25 to 30 years
> o 30 to 35 years
> o 35 to 40 years
> o 40 to 45 years
> o 45 to 50 years
> o 50+ Years
>
>
> To vote, please visit the following web page:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/surveys?id=2113290
>
> Note: Please do not reply to this message. Poll votes are
> not collected via email. To vote, you must go to the Yahoo! Groups
> web site listed above.
>
> Thanks!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20722 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/6/2007
Subject: My Tanks / + suggestions for my new 2?
Hello.

I am a owner of Four Tanks.

http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p211/jeffmclain/fish/?action=view¤t=1170790675.pbw

TANK 1
10 Gallon
Ten Glass gallon and features young Comet Goldfish and a Common
Chinese Algae Eater. There is a Aquaclear 20 Power filter. W/ Broken
Ship Bell, fake plant and real plant. + Air Bubbler

TANK 2
5 1/2 Gallon
Five Red Eye Tetra's, 2 Neon Tetra's and 1 Chinese Algae Eater.
Filtered by a Aquaclear 20 Power Filter. W/ Cave, 1 fake plants and 2
real plants. + Air Bubbler

Thee last two tanks I just acquired about 10 hours ago for five bucks.
They are acrylic glass and the water is settling in them.

TANK 3
Hawkeye 2 Gallon Model 202 Aquatank. Supposed to have a in tank under
gravel filter and air bubbler, that is missing. I have contacted the
company and waiting to hear if I can find a replacement for it.

TANK 4
5 Gallon Corner/Oval/Bowed Tank (I DONT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS TANK,
COMPANY, WHAT SHOULD HAVE COME WITH IT, ETC) So if you know anything
or have any leads let me know.

I am debating what to do with Tanks 3 & 4. I know Bettas require low
filtrations and air. Suggestions? Also Suggestions of what filters
would work in these tanks? Or Fish that would be good in them.

-Jeff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20723 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/6/2007
Subject: From Canopy to Coral Reef
This is a National Geographic presentation. If you are in the DC area on
Friday, February 15, you may wish to attend. It is being held at the
National Geographic at 17th and M Sts. NW in Washington DC.

http://www.nationalgeographic.com/nglive/washingtondc/s2007/masters/lama
n.html

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20724 From: jfazio Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Thanks to you, Cynthia, I too just ordered some plants from this
aquariumgarden.com. I appreciate the referral.

In the meantime, the plants I have in my established 55 gallon are not
growing as much as I'd hoped. I think it may be due to the fact that I
recently changed the gravel, uprooting and replanting them probably took a
toll. I now have the estes pebble gravel -
http://www.pets-warehouse.com/Vpasp/shopexd.asp?id=103389 - after someone
told me that the sand could clog my new Eheim Pro canister filter.

Is the gravel I have now good for the plants? Should I have any other kind
of substrate going on in my tank? Please don't tell me that, if I do, it
has to go underneath the gravel, for that would be too difficult to do not
to mention traumatic for the fish. Maybe something that could go over? Or
what about those Flourish tabs? I have bought some but am afraid that
they'll hurt the fish.

Thanks!

Jeannie

At 05:03 PM 2/5/2007, you wrote:

>I think I should inform you that I just received a shipment from
>aquariumgarden.com and it is seven degrees outside. The plants are
>in perfect condition, and there are at least eight plants over my
>order in with the others...and not cheapo plants, either! They had
>to short me one giant hairgrass, so they made up for it by giving me
>a clump of several madagascar lace, an extra ozelot sword, some
>beautiful crypts, and at least one extra of everything else I
>ordered, even though the hairgrass is not that expensive a plant.
>
>The plants are beautiful, no spots of fungus or yellow on them at
>all. I highly recommend these guys. It's not hard to ship during
>mild weather, but during this sort of weather it is impressive.
>
> >
> <http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/>http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/
> >
> > http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index.php?
> > doc_base=listings/potted_plants.php
> >
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/>http://www.plantgeek.net/
> >
>
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.1.411 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date: 2/4/2007


Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20725 From: jfazio Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: My quarantined gouramis/pet shops/fish
I tried reuniting the dwarf honey with the two newer flame dwarfs, but
again, the female honey is a mean mother! She constantly chases and bites
them. Do they have teeth? She actually makes bubbles rise to the top
after she's made contact with the two male flames, but the guys don't seem
to have any visible marks on their bodies or fins.

Once again, they're separated by the screen. Darn and to think I got them
to keep her company!

Now what? Should I give honey to someone, or bring her back to the pet
store? I don't want to do that.

Life in a pet shop is not good for fish, I've noticed. I have yet to find
a store that doesn't have fish looking very lethargic, or worse, floating
dead and being eaten by the surviving tankmates. I've had to complain to
many ps workers. In one store, there were a bunch of sharks viciously
attacking these sweet plecos. The kid in the fish store was doing nothing
to help them so I went angrily to a manager who moved them to a different
tank. Why do they allow this? Many of the people in those stores don't
seem to even care. This one place that sold me the honey gourami, I
trusted (cleaner than most with no dead fish floating around), but now,
thinking back, the honey was alone in a tank, except for one other
different kind of fish. I think the pet store person may have knowingly
sold me a mean gourami as she advised NOT getting another gourami as one
was enough for my 10 gallon quarantine tank.

Where do you all get your fish? The mail order's kind of scary as it
further traumatizes the poor fish. I once did fosters and smith and had
one fish arrive with the fin control problem. He was dead by the next
morning. I've since ordered from aquariumfish.net with better luck, but
wonder how you all feel about the pet shop fish. Is it just New England
that is a problem?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20726 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Well, gravel is fine for the top layer, but most plants DO need
something better, and yes, underneath the gravel. However, do not
panic. What I do to retrofit an established tank with good soil is
to take the plant and use unbleached coffee filters or other
unbleached thin paper. Heck, unbleached muslin works, just rinse it
out well. My substrate is laterite, vermiculite, peat moss, a bit of
good rinsed clay-ey soil, sand all mixed till doughy. (You can put a
fertilizer tab there, if you like, since it's under the surface of
the gravel, it doesn't hurt the fish at all) Wrap it all around the
roots of the plant, and sink it in the gravel. The filter keeps the
water from getting all mucky, and will eventually decompose and add
to it. HAving spots of good substrate can keep plants from spreading
out to other places in the tank, if that's a problem.

Or you could just choose plants that do not require a nutrient rich
substrate.

> Is the gravel I have now good for the plants? Should I have any
other kind
> of substrate going on in my tank? Please don't tell me that, if I
do, it
> has to go underneath the gravel, for that would be too difficult to
do not
> to mention traumatic for the fish. Maybe something that could go
over? Or
> what about those Flourish tabs? I have bought some but am afraid
that
> they'll hurt the fish.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 05:03 PM 2/5/2007, you wrote:
>
> >I think I should inform you that I just received a shipment from
> >aquariumgarden.com and it is seven degrees outside. The plants are
> >in perfect condition, and there are at least eight plants over my
> >order in with the others...and not cheapo plants, either! They had
> >to short me one giant hairgrass, so they made up for it by giving
me
> >a clump of several madagascar lace, an extra ozelot sword, some
> >beautiful crypts, and at least one extra of everything else I
> >ordered, even though the hairgrass is not that expensive a plant.
> >
> >The plants are beautiful, no spots of fungus or yellow on them at
> >all. I highly recommend these guys. It's not hard to ship during
> >mild weather, but during this sort of weather it is impressive.
> >
> > >
> >
<http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/>http://www.freshwateraquariu
mplants.com/
> > >
> > > http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index.php?
> > > doc_base=listings/potted_plants.php
> > >
> > > <http://www.plantgeek.net/>http://www.plantgeek.net/
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.1.411 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date:
2/4/2007
>
>
> Jeannie Fazio
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll
ph:
> 207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
> []
>
> "Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20727 From: arindamk Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: First Saltwater Aquarium
Hi

I am in UAE and want to create my first Saltwater Aquarium, can
anyonein the group tell me where do I get good quality Live Rock/Sqnd
in UAE? Any help appriciated.

Arindam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20728 From: Julie Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: From Canopy to Coral Reef
Hey Steve the link does not work.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This is a National Geographic presentation. If you are in the DC area
on
> Friday, February 15, you may wish to attend. It is being held at the
> National Geographic at 17th and M Sts. NW in Washington DC.
>
>
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/nglive/washingtondc/s2007/masters/lama
> n.html
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20729 From: quietari Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
<<I have in my established 55 gallon are not growing as much as I'd
hoped. I think it may be due to the fact that I recently changed the
gravel, uprooting and replanting them probably took a toll. I now
have the estes pebble gravel ->>

In addition to the advice that has been given here (The coffee
filter\fertilizer suggestion was excellent), keep an eye on the co2
\ph levels of your water, and make sure there is adequate lighting
(watts and spectrum). Before you order any purple or red plants, do
some research on them. Those color plants are, generally, harder to
grow than their green counterparts.

Also when you remove your plants from the water, be sure to grab them
by the base of their stem and turn them upside down before removal.
This will reduce stress on the leaves and upper stem, preventing
breaks.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, jfazio <jfazio@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks to you, Cynthia, I too just ordered some plants from this
> aquariumgarden.com. I appreciate the referral.
>
> In the meantime, the plants I have in my established 55 gallon are
not
> growing as much as I'd hoped. I think it may be due to the fact
that I
> recently changed the gravel, uprooting and replanting them probably
took a
> toll. I now have the estes pebble gravel -
> http://www.pets-warehouse.com/Vpasp/shopexd.asp?id=103389 - after
someone
> told me that the sand could clog my new Eheim Pro canister filter.
>
> Is the gravel I have now good for the plants? Should I have any
other kind
> of substrate going on in my tank? Please don't tell me that, if I
do, it
> has to go underneath the gravel, for that would be too difficult to
do not
> to mention traumatic for the fish. Maybe something that could go
over? Or
> what about those Flourish tabs? I have bought some but am afraid
that
> they'll hurt the fish.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jeannie
>
> At 05:03 PM 2/5/2007, you wrote:
>
> >I think I should inform you that I just received a shipment from
> >aquariumgarden.com and it is seven degrees outside. The plants are
> >in perfect condition, and there are at least eight plants over my
> >order in with the others...and not cheapo plants, either! They had
> >to short me one giant hairgrass, so they made up for it by giving
me
> >a clump of several madagascar lace, an extra ozelot sword, some
> >beautiful crypts, and at least one extra of everything else I
> >ordered, even though the hairgrass is not that expensive a plant.
> >
> >The plants are beautiful, no spots of fungus or yellow on them at
> >all. I highly recommend these guys. It's not hard to ship during
> >mild weather, but during this sort of weather it is impressive.
> >
> > >
> >
<http://www.freshwateraquariumplants.com/>http://www.freshwateraquariu
mplants.com/
> > >
> > > http://www.aquariumgarden.com/index.php?
> > > doc_base=listings/potted_plants.php
> > >
> > > <http://www.plantgeek.net/>http://www.plantgeek.net/
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >No virus found in this incoming message.
> >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> >Version: 7.1.411 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date:
2/4/2007
>
>
> Jeannie Fazio
> Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll
ph:
> 207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
> []
>
> "Let us run while you get other things done"
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20730 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: From Canopy to Coral Reef
Looks like it wrapped. You'll need to copy and paste both parts into the address bar of your browser.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: From Canopy to Coral Reef

Hey Steve the link does not work.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This is a National Geographic presentation. If you are in the DC area
on
> Friday, February 15, you may wish to attend. It is being held at the
> National Geographic at 17th and M Sts. NW in Washington DC.
>
>
http://www.nationalgeographic.com/nglive/washingtondc/s2007/masters/lama
> n.html
>
> \\Steve//
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20731 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: My quarantined gouramis/pet shops/fish
I'd keep her through quarantine, then put her into the main tank and
watch to see what she does. If she is as aggressive with other fish as
she is with conspecifics, then I'd probably house her by herself in a
small tank. If she does well, try placing one of the males in the main
tank with her.

No, they do not have teeth as such.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jfazio
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2007 7:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My quarantined gouramis/pet shops/fish

I tried reuniting the dwarf honey with the two newer flame dwarfs, but
again, the female honey is a mean mother! She constantly chases and
bites
them. Do they have teeth? She actually makes bubbles rise to the top
after she's made contact with the two male flames, but the guys don't
seem
to have any visible marks on their bodies or fins.

Once again, they're separated by the screen. Darn and to think I got
them
to keep her company!

Now what? Should I give honey to someone, or bring her back to the pet
store? I don't want to do that.

Life in a pet shop is not good for fish, I've noticed. I have yet to
find
a store that doesn't have fish looking very lethargic, or worse,
floating
dead and being eaten by the surviving tankmates. I've had to complain
to
many ps workers. In one store, there were a bunch of sharks viciously
attacking these sweet plecos. The kid in the fish store was doing
nothing
to help them so I went angrily to a manager who moved them to a
different
tank. Why do they allow this? Many of the people in those stores don't

seem to even care. This one place that sold me the honey gourami, I
trusted (cleaner than most with no dead fish floating around), but now,
thinking back, the honey was alone in a tank, except for one other
different kind of fish. I think the pet store person may have knowingly

sold me a mean gourami as she advised NOT getting another gourami as one

was enough for my 10 gallon quarantine tank.

Where do you all get your fish? The mail order's kind of scary as it
further traumatizes the poor fish. I once did fosters and smith and had

one fish arrive with the fin control problem. He was dead by the next
morning. I've since ordered from aquariumfish.net with better luck, but

wonder how you all feel about the pet shop fish. Is it just New England

that is a problem?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio
Priorities Errand Management, LLC ll we: prioritiesonline.com ll ph:
207.752.4700 ll fa: 207.363.6333 ll e-m: jfazio@...
[]

"Let us run while you get other things done"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20732 From: Shannon Nelson Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Hello , i've enjoyed the discussions about plants . It's very good info on this site from unselfish people who really know what they are talking about !!!

Was wondering if you guys that are in the know with plants could tell me (a Beginner) which plants (maybe 4-6) would be the least trouble to get going & keep Alive , easy in maintenance and require little lighting ?

Hope i'm not over asking , if so i apologize .

Thanks ,
Shannon Nelson

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20733 From: Aaron Date: 2/7/2007
Subject: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
Hi Shannon,

The Plants I started with and was successful in keeping alive are:

Hornwort, Wisteria, Anachris, Java Fern and Java Moss


These are "floating plants" - which is to say they do not require an
extensive root system to grow. The only real maintenance is regularly
thinning them out (especially the Hornwort and Wisteria) as they all
grow fast and can easily crowd the tank.

The Java plants will attach themselves to wood and rocks (and any
other decorations in the tank).

The Hornwort is a fast growing plant that does best floating as it
can get more co2 from the atmosphere as well as from the water.

The Wisteria is the most prolific plant (other than duck weed, and
there is a reason why its called a weed) that I've ever had. It
rapidly reproduces similar to the way the Java Ferns do. It does have
a weak root system that helps to hold it down in the substrate (with
a lead weight). It is a lighter and brighter green than all the
others. It will get larger than any of the swords in my tank within a
few weeks. When allowed to float or grow up to the water line - it
will grow completely different shaped leaves above the water.



I started with decorative gravel and the basic 2 - 15 watt
fluorescents that came with the kit.
Now, several years later, I have Eco-Complete mixed with Laterite and
4 - 65 watt Compact fluorescents 6700K and 10,000K. Still no CO2
added.


--- ...
>
> Was wondering if you guys that are in the know with plants could
tell me (a Beginner) which plants (maybe 4-6) would be the least
trouble to get going & keep Alive , easy in maintenance and require
little lighting ?
>
...
>
> Thanks ,
> Shannon Nelson
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20734 From: jfazio Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
Thanks for all the valuable plant help, guys. I'll do the coffee can
thing. Individually, with each plant, adding the stuff Cynthia recommended
to each before sinking into the gravel. Have a great day!

Jeannie

At 01:34 AM 2/8/2007, you wrote:

>Hi Shannon,
>
>The Plants I started with and was successful in keeping alive are:
>
>Hornwort, Wisteria, Anachris, Java Fern and Java Moss
>
>These are "floating plants" - which is to say they do not require an
>extensive root system to grow. The only real maintenance is regularly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20735 From: milind korday Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: cichlids
is any body will tell me that
if I put Salvini wih Convict chichlid 2 pair of each
in a 3ft x 18" x 12" tank with hiding palces..


pl tell me or let me know
I am going to buy both

milind
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20736 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: cichlids
If they are both added together that would be a great thing as it is sometimes hard to add cichlids at different times. That is a good size for both of them. Just remember that they are cichlids and will find a territory for themselves.


----- Original Message ----
From: milind korday <mkorday@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 7:10:00 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] cichlids

is any body will tell me that
if I put Salvini wih Convict chichlid 2 pair of each
in a 3ft x 18" x 12" tank with hiding palces..


pl tell me or let me know
I am going to buy both

milind





____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20737 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
A lot of that depends on what water you have. Some plants thrive in
acid water, some on alkaline...but mostly java fern is dead easy. YOu
don't need to root it, in fact you can tie it down onto a rock or
driftwood and it will anchor its roots and spread. I've found what
they sell as mondo grass in petsmart is dead easy, as well. A little
fertilizer tab at its roots and it runners all over the tank, making a
rather unkempt but attractive lawn look. Riccia fluitans is also dead
easy, and though it is a floater, if you tie it down (I use dental
floss) to a rock or peice of driftwood it looks really lovely.

If you have low light the madagascar lace plant is good...tall, looks
like lace due to the holes in the leaves. You have to keep up on water
changes, though...it looses leaves in old water


> Was wondering if you guys that are in the know with plants could tell
me (a Beginner) which plants (maybe 4-6) would be the least trouble to
get going & keep Alive , easy in maintenance and require little
lighting ?
>
> Hope i'm not over asking , if so i apologize .

> Thanks ,
> Shannon Nelson
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20738 From: steve Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
check out this article it seems like a good idea
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20739 From: quietari Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Beginner plants (was - Re: Where to get plants)
I agree, hornwort and wisteria are some of the easier plants to
grow. And when you give them optimal conditions their growth rates
will astonish you.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Shannon,
>
> The Plants I started with and was successful in keeping alive are:
>
> Hornwort, Wisteria, Anachris, Java Fern and Java Moss
>
>
> These are "floating plants" - which is to say they do not require
an
> extensive root system to grow. The only real maintenance is
regularly
> thinning them out (especially the Hornwort and Wisteria) as they
all
> grow fast and can easily crowd the tank.
>
> The Java plants will attach themselves to wood and rocks (and any
> other decorations in the tank).
>
> The Hornwort is a fast growing plant that does best floating as it
> can get more co2 from the atmosphere as well as from the water.
>
> The Wisteria is the most prolific plant (other than duck weed, and
> there is a reason why its called a weed) that I've ever had. It
> rapidly reproduces similar to the way the Java Ferns do. It does
have
> a weak root system that helps to hold it down in the substrate
(with
> a lead weight). It is a lighter and brighter green than all the
> others. It will get larger than any of the swords in my tank within
a
> few weeks. When allowed to float or grow up to the water line - it
> will grow completely different shaped leaves above the water.
>
>
>
> I started with decorative gravel and the basic 2 - 15 watt
> fluorescents that came with the kit.
> Now, several years later, I have Eco-Complete mixed with Laterite
and
> 4 - 65 watt Compact fluorescents 6700K and 10,000K. Still no CO2
> added.
>
>
> --- ...
> >
> > Was wondering if you guys that are in the know with plants could
> tell me (a Beginner) which plants (maybe 4-6) would be the least
> trouble to get going & keep Alive , easy in maintenance and require
> little lighting ?
> >
> ...
> >
> > Thanks ,
> > Shannon Nelson
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20740 From: salth2odunce Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
i have little white spots on my 55 gal. tank not on fish yet can any
one tell me what it is?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20741 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Automatic Fish Feeder
Can anyone recommend a good, easy to use, reliable automatic fish
feeder? Thank you,

Joanna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20742 From: shanbar6 Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Easy Plants
>THANKS Guys ,

Thank You Aaron & Cynthia for the help and info this is Exactly what i
needed !!!!

I have Deep Well Spring Water which i would assume is hard water . I
do complete changes in this water to the delight of my Bettas once a
week .

THANKS Again to Aaron and Cynthia for Your Help ,

Shannon Nelson
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20743 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
I'm not sure what yours looks like, but I had some growing in my 55gal. too. Mine were kind of larger pieces of stuff that looked like cotton. I got my fish out right away, and cleaned out my tank. The pet shop the next day said that it was some type of fungus, but yours may not be. After I put my fish back in, they seemed fine. So whatever it was, it was pretty easy to get rid of. The only problem was that a couple of days later, one of my other tanks had it, so it seems to spread through the air.


----- Original Message ----
From: salth2odunce <salth2odunce@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 6:59:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank


i have little white spots on my 55 gal. tank not on fish yet can any
one tell me what it is?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20744 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
What are you feeding? I have seen food lead to a fungus develop like
this through the waste. Living waste if you will.

Also if its not that; I highly doubt it to be airborne, more likely
the same net used in more then one tank or via your hand.

-jeff

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Collin Ticer <cticer2491@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure what yours looks like, but I had some growing in my
55gal. too. Mine were kind of larger pieces of stuff that looked like
cotton. I got my fish out right away, and cleaned out my tank. The pet
shop the next day said that it was some type of fungus, but yours may
not be. After I put my fish back in, they seemed fine. So whatever it
was, it was pretty easy to get rid of. The only problem was that a
couple of days later, one of my other tanks had it, so it seems to
spread through the air.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: salth2odunce <salth2odunce@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 6:59:06 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
>
>
> i have little white spots on my 55 gal. tank not on fish yet can any
> one tell me what it is?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20745 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Possibly a strain of mold or brown algae (I have seen this get white
spots). If its not on the fish, I wouldn't think it to be a disease
like ich or anything.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "salth2odunce" <salth2odunce@...>
wrote:
>
> i have little white spots on my 55 gal. tank not on fish yet can any
> one tell me what it is?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20746 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: Re: white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank
Test your water it might be lime or calcium deposits.


----- Original Message ----
From: Collin Ticer <cticer2491@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 9:57:32 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank

I'm not sure what yours looks like, but I had some growing in my 55gal. too. Mine were kind of larger pieces of stuff that looked like cotton. I got my fish out right away, and cleaned out my tank. The pet shop the next day said that it was some type of fungus, but yours may not be. After I put my fish back in, they seemed fine. So whatever it was, it was pretty easy to get rid of. The only problem was that a couple of days later, one of my other tanks had it, so it seems to spread through the air.

----- Original Message ----
From: salth2odunce <salth2odunce@ yahoo.com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, February 8, 2007 6:59:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] white spots on my 55gal. fish only tank

i have little white spots on my 55 gal. tank not on fish yet can any
one tell me what it is?

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20747 From: mkorday Date: 2/8/2007
Subject: do salvini and convict chichlids will stay together as a community
dear brothers/sisters

I want to keep 36" x18"x12" tank with
2 pairs of each Salvini and albino Convict chichlids
in a one tank with various hiding places..

pl advise whether is it possible to keep
salvini with the convict..

pl respond


milind
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20748 From: milind korday Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: chichlids food for convict/salvini
dear brothers/sisters,,

I also wud like to know which nutritious food
shall I buy to feed convict and salvini other than live food (c'z live food is not available
nearest to my home.) made of sera and tetra ...
sud i inlcude amazon sord plant in the tank will do good for the sake of hiding place
and territory purpose.
n sorry for the trouble......

milind


---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20749 From: Rob" Fortwaynefish" Renfro Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] chichlids food for  convict/salvini
Any decent flake food, or pellet food will be good for your convicts and Salvini.

The ingredients in Packaged Fish foods are very nutritious and usually a very decent staple food to feed your fish. Any brand will suffice....





Rob Renfro
FT Wayne, Indiana

=====================
From: milind korday <mkorday@...>
Date: 2007/02/09 Fri AM 04:49:34 CST
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: jrreid3rd1@...
Subject: [AquaticLife] chichlids food for convict/salvini


dear brothers/sisters,,

I also wud like to know which nutritious food
shall I buy to feed convict and salvini other than live food (c'z live food is not available
nearest to my home.) made of sera and tetra ...
sud i inlcude amazon sord plant in the tank will do good for the sake of hiding place
and territory purpose.
n sorry for the trouble......

milind

---------------------------------


Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20750 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Snails have got to go!
My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
to get out of control.

I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20751 From: Andreas Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
you can get one or 2 small loaches...
they are ok by themselves too


On 2/9/07, quietari <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
> building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
> subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
> to get out of control.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
> eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
> schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
> is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
> daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20752 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
What kind of other fish do you have in your tank? Dwarf puffers eat snails as well, however they are fairly aggressive. Check out http://www.dwarfpuffers.com/ for more info on them.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: Andreas
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!


you can get one or 2 small loaches...
they are ok by themselves too

On 2/9/07, quietari <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
> building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
> subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
> to get out of control.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
> eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
> schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
> is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
> daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20753 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Personally keep a couple different small group of skunk loach(s) they do a wonderful job eradicating / eliminating snail problems and don't get as big as the clown loach. Also mine don't seem to know anything about being shy.

Shannon

quietari <quietari@...> wrote:
My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
to get out of control.

I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20754 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
If the snails are small enough, you can crush them against the glass and the fish like to eat them for a treat. There is also a product - Had A Snail - that can be gotten at the local pet store and it works on the snail population. Someone a while back suggest putting a leaf of lettuce in the tank and the snails would get on the lettuce and then you could just throw the piece of lettuce away. I tried it and guess I left it in too long because the lettuce deteriorated, but it might work if you don't leave it too long. Also, if you use something to rid the tank of the snails, don't forget to check inside your water filter. They sometimes get in there and can still come back. And best of luck!


----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:22:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!

My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
to get out of control.

I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20755 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Currently i have 3 otos, about 8-10 ghost shrimp, and 1 freshwater
flounder.

Its a heavily planted (or getting there) tank, and i would like to
build up a nice, peaceful network of cleaner fish\shrimp that can
help compliment and manage the plants and tank. I would like to
avoid aggressive fish, because once i get the plants more established
i will be adding fish to compliment the visual appeal,




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of other fish do you have in your tank? Dwarf puffers
eat snails as well, however they are fairly aggressive. Check out
http://www.dwarfpuffers.com/ for more info on them.
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Andreas
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:27 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!
>
>
> you can get one or 2 small loaches...
> they are ok by themselves too
>
> On 2/9/07, quietari <quietari@...> wrote:
> >
> > My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im
all for
> > building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and
control every
> > subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they
are about
> > to get out of control.
> >
> > I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some
snail
> > eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
> > schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank.
My tank
> > is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail
population is a
> > daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20756 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Once I started squishing snails on teh side of the tank with my
fingers, my bettas caught on and will now eat snails off the side of
the tanks for me. Puffers will also eat snails, but are pretty
aggressive fish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20757 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Is a skunk loach compatable with a male betta? Or is it too aggressive? I had snails from a pet-store-purchased-banana plant, used Had-A-Snail to get rid of them, but saw another one the other day........Thought the added fish might be a long-term fix. The Had-A-Snail worked wonders getting them out on initial treatment and I'd recommend that to get rid of a bunch.


----- Original Message ----
From: Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:45:33 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!

Personally keep a couple different small group of skunk loach(s) they do a wonderful job eradicating / eliminating snail problems and don't get as big as the clown loach. Also mine don't seem to know anything about being shy.

Shannon

quietari <quietari@yahoo. com> wrote:
My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
to get out of control.

I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.

------------ --------- --------- ---
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Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20758 From: steve Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
you can also try getting a couple pakistan loaches they are supposed to
be pretty good for snail control i have also used them but they somehow
disappear on me and to never be seen again maybe they buried themself
in the gravel and forgot how to get out of it
but really any small loaches should work kuhli, pakistan, and that
sorta loach will work good and they are fairly small too
good luck


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "quietari" <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all
for
> building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control
every
> subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are
about
> to get out of control.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
> eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
> schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My
tank
> is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is
a
> daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20759 From: quietari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Thanks for the replies all!

My hope is to avoid micromanaging the tank. Ive been crushing them,
removing them, using lettuce (it works). I can not use anything to
kill them because of all the algae eaters in my tank would most likely
suffer as a result. And why do with chemicals what one can do with
fish!

I will ask my LFS about skunk loaches, it is good to hear they dont get
as big as clowns, since my tank is limited in size.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20760 From: Rob" Fortwaynefish" Renfro Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Fahaka Puffer :-) Just joking...


seriously though the clown loaches grow so slow that a 20 gallon tank will be a very good home for them for a few years.

In that time you might get a bigger tank or decide to get out of the hobby all together.

I'd go with the Clown Loaches The bigger the better
3 three inch clown loaches would be great for a 20 gallon tank imo as long as the bio load and tankmates where such to allow them.

Our clown loaches have grown from 3 inches to a Whopping 5 inches each in the last 5 years and some people don't even get that kind of growth out of them.
They are very very happy in a 20 gallon tank, just provide hiding places as they tend to be more of a nocturnal fish.

Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
www.circlecityaqclub.org
=====================



Rob Renfro
Ft Wayne, Indiana
Board Of Directors
http://ftas.net
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20761 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
YOYO LOACHES!
happy with bettas and bye bye snail I have 2 and they are amazing.

-jef

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Once I started squishing snails on teh side of the tank with my
> fingers, my bettas caught on and will now eat snails off the side of
> the tanks for me. Puffers will also eat snails, but are pretty
> aggressive fish
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20762 From: Karen Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
When I had freshwater I had so many snails you could barely see
through them. I took an old parmesan cheese container(plastic bottle
with strainer top)and cleaned it good. Put some grapes and boiled
lettuce in and put the strainer top back on, set it down in back of
tank behind some rocks overnight. Each morning the bottle will be
full of snails. Just empty and reload with veggies.

Also had great experience with clown loaches.
Karen
>
> quietari <quietari@...> wrote:
> My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that.
Normally im all for
> building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control
every
> subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are
about
> to get out of control.
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some
snail
> eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
> schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My
tank
> is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population
is a
> daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Never miss an email again!
> Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it
out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20763 From: tommy thompson Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Be careful mashing snails with your fingers. I read once about a person who caught an infections after she got cut by doing that.

jefftragedy <jefftragedy@...> wrote:
YOYO LOACHES!
happy with bettas and bye bye snail I have 2 and they are amazing.

-jef

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Once I started squishing snails on teh side of the tank with my
> fingers, my bettas caught on and will now eat snails off the side of
> the tanks for me. Puffers will also eat snails, but are pretty
> aggressive fish
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20764 From: Joanna Tomacari Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Get some Clown Loaches, they will eat every single one!

Joanna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20765 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Yep they love them and I actually have a 30 with snails just to keep my clown happy!

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: Joanna Tomacari
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!


Get some Clown Loaches, they will eat every single one!

Joanna





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20766 From: Kevin Date: 2/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Don't know that this is standard, but my bolivain ram did a great job
getting rid of snails. My Keyhole cichlids ate them too...



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet" <fcouellet@...>
wrote:
>
> Yep they love them and I actually have a 30 with snails just to keep
my clown happy!
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Joanna Tomacari
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 8:06 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!
>
>
> Get some Clown Loaches, they will eat every single one!
>
> Joanna
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20767 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Hardware Play Sand - Safe For Aquarium? River Rocks from Hardware S
I have been told you can save money by getting river rocks from your
local Lowe's and save money(same as in petstores?) I plan to do the
vinegar test....what have you heard

what about sand....i have been told playsand works fine...is there
sterilization i need to do or anything? Let me know

Would it be dumb to put in a few big river rocks and fill in the
cracks with play sand?

thanks!

jeff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20768 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Well I believe there are other Botias and loaches that also eat up snails.

----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:22:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!













My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for

building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every

subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about

to get out of control.



I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail

eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a

schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank

is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a

daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20769 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
if you favor your shimp dont get the puffers do the loaches.

----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:57:40 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!













Currently i have 3 otos, about 8-10 ghost shrimp, and 1 freshwater

flounder.



Its a heavily planted (or getting there) tank, and i would like to

build up a nice, peaceful network of cleaner fish\shrimp that can

help compliment and manage the plants and tank. I would like to

avoid aggressive fish, because once i get the plants more established

i will be adding fish to compliment the visual appeal,



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Sean C. Figueroa"

<scfigueroa@ ...> wrote:

>

> What kind of other fish do you have in your tank? Dwarf puffers

eat snails as well, however they are fairly aggressive. Check out

http://www.dwarfpuf fers.com/ for more info on them.

>

> Sean

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Andreas

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:27 AM

> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!

>

>

> you can get one or 2 small loaches...

> they are ok by themselves too

>

> On 2/9/07, quietari <quietari@.. .> wrote:

> >

> > My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im

all for

> > building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and

control every

> > subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they

are about

> > to get out of control.

> >

> > I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some

snail

> > eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a

> > schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank.

My tank

> > is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail

population is a

> > daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.

> >

> >

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20770 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Someone said they use cucumber slices put on the gravel and when there are snails on them they remove them.

----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 3:12:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!













Thanks for the replies all!



My hope is to avoid micromanaging the tank. Ive been crushing them,

removing them, using lettuce (it works). I can not use anything to

kill them because of all the algae eaters in my tank would most likely

suffer as a result. And why do with chemicals what one can do with

fish!



I will ask my LFS about skunk loaches, it is good to hear they dont get

as big as clowns, since my tank is limited in size.














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20771 From: sbmack7 Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
I have a neglected 25 gal aquarium that I want to clean up. However
there are deposits from mineral creep not only on the glass but also
on the cover and light fixture. Given that the deposits are so
stubborn, is there any way to clean then up with a reasonable amount
of effort?

Thanks,

SteveM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20772 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
In a 20 gallon, if you're not overfeeding and your water quality is
good, you might try a trio of yo yo loaches. they stay fairly small, so
if you're not overstocked already, they are a good choice. They will
clean up the tank in a few days. (better snail eaters than clowns).

Just keep in mind... loaches are more sensitive to water quality than a
lot of fish, and they prefer groups of three or more. Yo Yo loaches (and
I've heard but not verified that Kuhli loaches will also) stay small and
love snails.

But... what kind of snails do you have? Is your tank planted or not? How
much do you feed your tank daily? How often do you do water changes and
clean gravel? In a non-planted tank, snails will only thrive as long as
there's enough food for them to continue to multiply, which means you
may be overfeeding. In a planted tank, with pond snails, yeah, you'll
want something that eats snails, because they will have a constant food
supply till your plants are gone.

If you have the little ramshorn snails, you may want to post an ad on
some of the fish boards for people to get some, as these harmless little
fellas are great for planted tanks as they don't harm live plants, as
well as easy to propogate as food for loaches, puffers, etc.



Do NOT use snail killer chemicals. Not only can they damage your
biofilter, but they also harm your fish. They often contain copper
products, which are toxic to fish AND invertebrates. The fish are
usually just a bit slower to show the damage, but even when the chemical
has been removed, the damage is done, and you will often see shorter
life spans than you would normally see in that tank.

Have you tried a "snail trap" by using a clean rinsed soda bottle, cut
the neck off just where it starts to taper. Put a rock or weight inside.
put a slice of yam or lettuce leaf inside. put the "neck" of the soda
bottle on "inside out" so that the funnel points inside. Then every day,
pull it out of the tank and remove the snails, and put it back in the
tank to gather more. Lettuce leaves need replaced daily or more often,
depending on the population. a slice of raw yam will last longer, and
you can lift it out easier and scrape the snails off of it.

Hope some of this might help...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20773 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: clown loaches
Clown loaches will grow quickly in a larger tank. The reason they appear
to grow slow in a 20 gallon, is that they put out pheromones into the
water when they are in crowded conditions, which slows the growth of not
only them, but the fish around them, to try and slow overpopulation. In
nature, this would prevent population explosions, etc. What is
happening, is the growth is being stunted. And in clown loaches, if the
growth is stunted early, it stays stunted and they rarely will reach
their full size. Kinda like locking a kid in a closet. Even if you clean
it and provide food and water, it's still locked in a closet and will
not grow to it's potential.

Do a search on clown loaches, and you'll find a few links to some video
clips that show healthy clowns in a large tank, and what size/potential
they have.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20774 From: angel Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware Play Sand - Safe For Aquarium? River Rocks from Hardwa
There is a guy I get my African Cichlids from and his tanks are BEAUTIful.
He used play sand from Lowes. He says the only thing he did to it is put the
sand in a 5 gallon bucket, turn the hose on HIGH, let the water flow out of
bucket until it is clear and that’s it. He breeds his Africans and has never
had a problem with the sand. I plan to use it in my tanks one at a time once
I can use my hose (it is like 11 degrees right now) LOL.



HTH
Thanks, Angel



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jefftragedy
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 3:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware Play Sand - Safe For Aquarium? River Rocks
from Hardware Store, Safe?



I have been told you can save money by getting river rocks from your
local Lowe's and save money(same as in petstores?) I plan to do the
vinegar test....what have you heard

what about sand....i have been told playsand works fine...is there
sterilization i need to do or anything? Let me know

Would it be dumb to put in a few big river rocks and fill in the
cracks with play sand?

thanks!

jeff





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20775 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
A little vinegar or lemon juice on a filter sponge usually works fine
for me.


> I have a neglected 25 gal aquarium that I want to clean up. However
> there are deposits from mineral creep not only on the glass but also
> on the cover and light fixture. Given that the deposits are so
> stubborn, is there any way to clean then up with a reasonable amount
> of effort?
>
> Thanks,
>
> SteveM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20776 From: steve Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
i believe the yoyo loach is the same as the kuhli loach or some
people even spell it coolie loach
i found this website
www.loaches.com
just look for what kinda loach you like i believe most loaches are
snail eaters just look for the smaller onesto fit in your tank


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Loki Wolf <xxwildechildexx@...>
wrote:
>
> In a 20 gallon, if you're not overfeeding and your water quality is
> good, you might try a trio of yo yo loaches. they stay fairly
small, so
> if you're not overstocked already, they are a good choice. They
will
> clean up the tank in a few days. (better snail eaters than clowns).
>
> Just keep in mind... loaches are more sensitive to water quality
than a
> lot of fish, and they prefer groups of three or more. Yo Yo loaches
(and
> I've heard but not verified that Kuhli loaches will also) stay
small and
> love snails.
>
> But... what kind of snails do you have? Is your tank planted or
not? How
> much do you feed your tank daily? How often do you do water changes
and
> clean gravel? In a non-planted tank, snails will only thrive as
long as
> there's enough food for them to continue to multiply, which means
you
> may be overfeeding. In a planted tank, with pond snails, yeah,
you'll
> want something that eats snails, because they will have a constant
food
> supply till your plants are gone.
>
> If you have the little ramshorn snails, you may want to post an ad
on
> some of the fish boards for people to get some, as these harmless
little
> fellas are great for planted tanks as they don't harm live plants,
as
> well as easy to propogate as food for loaches, puffers, etc.
>
>
>
> Do NOT use snail killer chemicals. Not only can they damage your
> biofilter, but they also harm your fish. They often contain copper
> products, which are toxic to fish AND invertebrates. The fish are
> usually just a bit slower to show the damage, but even when the
chemical
> has been removed, the damage is done, and you will often see
shorter
> life spans than you would normally see in that tank.
>
> Have you tried a "snail trap" by using a clean rinsed soda bottle,
cut
> the neck off just where it starts to taper. Put a rock or weight
inside.
> put a slice of yam or lettuce leaf inside. put the "neck" of the
soda
> bottle on "inside out" so that the funnel points inside. Then every
day,
> pull it out of the tank and remove the snails, and put it back in
the
> tank to gather more. Lettuce leaves need replaced daily or more
often,
> depending on the population. a slice of raw yam will last longer,
and
> you can lift it out easier and scrape the snails off of it.
>
> Hope some of this might help...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20777 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Kuhlies and Yo Yo's are not even the same shape. Kuhlies appear very
wormlike or eel like. Yo Yo's have the typical loach or fish shape.

Mike

In a message dated 2/10/2007 9:39:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
steve01@... writes:
i believe the yoyo loach is the same as the kuhli loach or some
people even spell it coolie loach
i found this website
www.loaches.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20778 From: snerticus Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
I have had a YoYo Loach in one of my 5 gal tanks for almost a year
now. I got him when he was tiny and now he's about 2 inches long.
He's still doing great and eats snails like crazy. However, if all
loaches are like my little YoYo, then I wouldn't put them in with
shrimp. YoYo loves shrimp as well as snails and will try to kill them
no matter what size they are. He did in one of my 3 inch bamboo
shrimp - relentless! YoYo even tried to eat a large crab, and of
course couln't because the crab carapace is much harder than the
shrimp's. Also, the crab was a little on the aggressive side too, and
little YoYo would always taunt him and try to take his food away from
him. The crab would always try and grab YoYo for coming too close, but
YoYo was too quick for him. YoYo reminds me of a cat, and will taunt
inverts and other fish just because he can, and he seems to enjoy it.
I've never seen him kill another fish, though. Personality plus in a
fish! I love my little YoYo... :)

Snert



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Kuhlies and Yo Yo's are not even the same shape. Kuhlies appear very
> wormlike or eel like. Yo Yo's have the typical loach or fish shape.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 2/10/2007 9:39:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> steve01@... writes:
> i believe the yoyo loach is the same as the kuhli loach or some
> people even spell it coolie loach
> i found this website
> www.loaches.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20779 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
If there isn't anything else live in the tank but a male betta, does the YoYo eat regular tropical fish food or what? These sound like wonderful fish. I usually stick close to the usual fish - mollies, swords, etc. but these sound really neat. The betta tank is a 10g and had a lot of snails, and occasionally now one or two will appear. What else would go good with them......nothing that will eat my betta's fins, though. Thanks


----- Original Message ----
From: snerticus <Snerticus@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 5:34:02 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!

I have had a YoYo Loach in one of my 5 gal tanks for almost a year
now. I got him when he was tiny and now he's about 2 inches long.
He's still doing great and eats snails like crazy. However, if all
loaches are like my little YoYo, then I wouldn't put them in with
shrimp. YoYo loves shrimp as well as snails and will try to kill them
no matter what size they are. He did in one of my 3 inch bamboo
shrimp - relentless! YoYo even tried to eat a large crab, and of
course couln't because the crab carapace is much harder than the
shrimp's. Also, the crab was a little on the aggressive side too, and
little YoYo would always taunt him and try to take his food away from
him. The crab would always try and grab YoYo for coming too close, but
YoYo was too quick for him. YoYo reminds me of a cat, and will taunt
inverts and other fish just because he can, and he seems to enjoy it.
I've never seen him kill another fish, though. Personality plus in a
fish! I love my little YoYo... :)

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Kuhlies and Yo Yo's are not even the same shape. Kuhlies appear very
> wormlike or eel like. Yo Yo's have the typical loach or fish shape.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 2/10/2007 9:39:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> steve01@... writes:
> i believe the yoyo loach is the same as the kuhli loach or some
> people even spell it coolie loach
> i found this website
> www.loaches. com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20780 From: mikewarr2 Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Lighting needs for non-planted aquariums
Hi List,
I know planted tanks should normally be lighted 10 to 12 hours a day
but is there any standard or recommendations for non planted tanks?
Thanks,
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20781 From: cody adams Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: hello
i was at petco today and i was looking in at some fish it said red
devils and pike cichlid on the tank, i saw red devils in there and they
had one pike cichlid. I know petco always makes mistakes in mislabeling
fish and putting them in the wrong tank. put asides from the pike
cichlid or red devils it looked like the had another cichlid in there.
it was orange like a red devil or midas cichlid , but it had spots on
the side. I know red devils or midas cichlids have different colors on
them. but this particular cichlid had like a row of three spots fading
away on it . can anybody tell me what type of cichlids is this ? is it
a red devil or a wild red devil cichlid or something.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20782 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Loaches work fine and it’s better than waging chemical warfare on your fish.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 2:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!



Is a skunk loach compatable with a male betta? Or is it too aggressive? I
had snails from a pet-store-purchased-banana plant, used Had-A-Snail to get
rid of them, but saw another one the other day........Thought the added fish
might be a long-term fix. The Had-A-Snail worked wonders getting them out on
initial treatment and I'd recommend that to get rid of a bunch.

----- Original Message ----
From: Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...
<mailto:feather2night867%40yahoo.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:45:33 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!

Personally keep a couple different small group of skunk loach(s) they do a
wonderful job eradicating / eliminating snail problems and don't get as big
as the clown loach. Also mine don't seem to know anything about being shy.

Shannon

quietari <quietari@yahoo. com> wrote:
My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im all for
building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and control every
subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they are about
to get out of control.

I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some snail
eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a
schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank. My tank
is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail population is a
daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.

------------ --------- --------- ---
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20783 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Or anything else bigger than them hehehehe. My angels love to go shrimp
hunting. Ghost shrimp are also a natural food for South American Cichlids…



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 3:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!



if you favor your shimp dont get the puffers do the loaches.

----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@... <mailto:quietari%40yahoo.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, February 9, 2007 2:57:40 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Snails have got to go!

Currently i have 3 otos, about 8-10 ghost shrimp, and 1 freshwater

flounder.

Its a heavily planted (or getting there) tank, and i would like to

build up a nice, peaceful network of cleaner fish\shrimp that can

help compliment and manage the plants and tank. I would like to

avoid aggressive fish, because once i get the plants more established

i will be adding fish to compliment the visual appeal,

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Sean C. Figueroa"

<scfigueroa@ ...> wrote:

>

> What kind of other fish do you have in your tank? Dwarf puffers

eat snails as well, however they are fairly aggressive. Check out

http://www.dwarfpuf fers.com/ for more info on them.

>

> Sean

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Andreas

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 11:27 AM

> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Snails have got to go!

>

>

> you can get one or 2 small loaches...

> they are ok by themselves too

>

> On 2/9/07, quietari <quietari@.. .> wrote:

> >

> > My tanks has snails, quite a lot of them at that. Normally im

all for

> > building a heathy ecosystem vs trying to micromanage and

control every

> > subtle nuance in my tank, however these snails seem like they

are about

> > to get out of control.

> >

> > I was wondering if anyone has experience and could suggest some

snail

> > eating fish. I am worried about clown loaches, since they are a

> > schooling type fish and would require about a 50 gallon tank.

My tank

> > is only 20 gallons, and manually controlling the snail

population is a

> > daily tedious task i would like to turn over to the fish.

> >

> >

> >

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20784 From: Leslie Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Saltwater group (& hi!)
Hi and Hello all!!!!
I'm still alive, just moved and without fish. =(

I am trying to land a job at a local fish store (to pay the bills
while fullfilling my fish addictions) and I need to do some fast
learning on saltwater set ups. Can someone let me know which groups
would be worth my while to join and lurk on the posts? I don't have
questions as of yet but I'd like to do some real time reading as that
is what got me through my much needed crash course(s) with the
freshwater.

Many thanks and know you all are SERIOUSLY missed!!!

~Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20785 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: hello
I looked for a fish that sounded similar to the one you described, and it sounds like it could be a Jewel Cichlid. Look for a picture of that fish on yahoo or google, and see if it looks like the one you saw.


----- Original Message ----
From: cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 5:37:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] hello


i was at petco today and i was looking in at some fish it said red
devils and pike cichlid on the tank, i saw red devils in there and they
had one pike cichlid. I know petco always makes mistakes in mislabeling
fish and putting them in the wrong tank. put asides from the pike
cichlid or red devils it looked like the had another cichlid in there.
it was orange like a red devil or midas cichlid , but it had spots on
the side. I know red devils or midas cichlids have different colors on
them. but this particular cichlid had like a row of three spots fading
away on it . can anybody tell me what type of cichlids is this ? is it
a red devil or a wild red devil cichlid or something.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20786 From: Collin Ticer Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting needs for non-planted aquariums
I usually just turn mine on when I get up, which is about 7:30, and turn them off about 7:00. So I guess 12 hours sounds about right for a non-planted tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: mikewarr2 <mikewarr2@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 5:18:56 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting needs for non-planted aquariums


Hi List,
I know planted tanks should normally be lighted 10 to 12 hours a day
but is there any standard or recommendations for non planted tanks?
Thanks,
Mike



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20787 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
This method has been around for at least 20 years. If you are using a
UGF for your biological filtration, it is a very good method. Just be
sure to prefilter the water prior to its being moved through the gravel
bed. Also, you do need to keep up with the cleanliness of the filter
material used, because you do not have any visual clues as to the rate
of the flow through this system.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] has anyone tried this undergravel jets

check out this article it seems like a good idea
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20788 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/10/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
I should have read the whole article before I replied. This seems to be
a take off on what I described in my previous post. However, it is very
similar to the UGF method. In fact, at one time there was a UGF sold
that was a network of piping laid on the bottom of the tank, with the
gravel then placed in the tank. I do know of a few people who used this
method with the power heads, making it even more like the method
explained in the article. I don't know that this product is still
available, but it is simple enough to make yourself with some small
diameter PVC piping or other piping material.

It does strike me that the method described indicates some knowledge of
fluid dynamics for proper placing of the jets talked about, and one
certainly would not be wanting to dig up the tank to rearrange the jets
until one got it right.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] has anyone tried this undergravel jets

This method has been around for at least 20 years. If you are using a
UGF for your biological filtration, it is a very good method. Just be
sure to prefilter the water prior to its being moved through the gravel
bed. Also, you do need to keep up with the cleanliness of the filter
material used, because you do not have any visual clues as to the rate
of the flow through this system.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] has anyone tried this undergravel jets

check out this article it seems like a good idea
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20789 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
As someone has already mentioned, vinegar will help to remove the
deposits, however, it does require a good amount of elbow grease as
well. You can always use a single edged razor blade to scrape the
deposits off the glass, and this will get rid of most of the deposit,
but there always seems to be some left, and you re back to the vinegar
method, but since most of the deposit has been removed, you do not need
as much elbow grease.

I have also heard of people using a product called CLR for this task,
and it is supposed to make the job easier than using vinegar, however,
I've never used the product for anything, and I am not quite sure if it
is a viable option for aquariums. Going to the site
http://www.jelmar.com, and looking at the MSDS sheets (registration
required, but you do not need to be honest), using CLR with a good
cleaning after, should be OK. Take a look and make up your own mind.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of sbmack7
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to Remove Mineral Deposits?

I have a neglected 25 gal aquarium that I want to clean up. However
there are deposits from mineral creep not only on the glass but also
on the cover and light fixture. Given that the deposits are so
stubborn, is there any way to clean then up with a reasonable amount
of effort?

Thanks,

SteveM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20790 From: steve Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: has anyone tried this undergravel jets
i agree i didn t seem like you needed any kinda education on where to
put the jets, and also the guy that described it also describe on how
to make it and even the jets by just boiling some water and laying
the small pvc in the boiling water and then crushing 1 end with a
pair of pliers
it even says if you want to do this for a tank it is a good idea to
maybe have some rocks sit on top of it just so fish that dig wont dig
it up and it won t be floating around in your tank

well thanks for the reply there


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I should have read the whole article before I replied. This seems
to be
> a take off on what I described in my previous post. However, it is
very
> similar to the UGF method. In fact, at one time there was a UGF sold
> that was a network of piping laid on the bottom of the tank, with
the
> gravel then placed in the tank. I do know of a few people who used
this
> method with the power heads, making it even more like the method
> explained in the article. I don't know that this product is still
> available, but it is simple enough to make yourself with some small
> diameter PVC piping or other piping material.
>
> It does strike me that the method described indicates some
knowledge of
> fluid dynamics for proper placing of the jets talked about, and one
> certainly would not be wanting to dig up the tank to rearrange the
jets
> until one got it right.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 11:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] has anyone tried this undergravel jets
>
> This method has been around for at least 20 years. If you are using
a
> UGF for your biological filtration, it is a very good method. Just
be
> sure to prefilter the water prior to its being moved through the
gravel
> bed. Also, you do need to keep up with the cleanliness of the filter
> material used, because you do not have any visual clues as to the
rate
> of the flow through this system.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2007 2:28 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] has anyone tried this undergravel jets
>
> check out this article it seems like a good idea
> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ug_jets.php
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20791 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
I subscribe to reefs.org for that purpose.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)



Hi and Hello all!!!!
I'm still alive, just moved and without fish. =(

I am trying to land a job at a local fish store (to pay the bills
while fullfilling my fish addictions) and I need to do some fast
learning on saltwater set ups. Can someone let me know which groups
would be worth my while to join and lurk on the posts? I don't have
questions as of yet but I'd like to do some real time reading as that
is what got me through my much needed crash course(s) with the
freshwater.

Many thanks and know you all are SERIOUSLY missed!!!

~Leslie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20792 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Ray,

Your message was eaten by the Exchange Internet Message Filter on my
server, so I did not see it until yesterday when I was cleaning up all
the messages trapped by it (1394 for this week, with 6 false positives,
if you are interested).

You produced a nice listing of plants for Lisa, if she is still around,
we may have lost her by the third message in this thread <g>. All I
could think of last week were the crypts, and one must be prepared for
the die back they will experience upon transplanting them, but come back
they will. While a tank full of various crypts will look very nice, they
can be hard to come by in many stores, especially the taller ones. This
may have something to do with the die back issue.

I'd suggest that Lisa look up the plants you mention and then make her
decisions based on her findings. Beside the problem, if you want to call
it that, of the crypts dieing back, I've had problems with hydro
becoming leggy, which some attribute to the lighting, but I suspect
other things are in play as well. Ludwigia is also a problematic plant
in my experience.

The sanity comment applies to both of us, and many in the list are
probably questioning it through this thread <g>. Most really don't care
if a leopard danio is a color variation of a zebra fish or a subspecies
or a separate species. I do suspect, however, that the splitters will be
in 7th heaven with DNA studies of fish, showing minor variations that
will allow them to name new species at an unprecedented rate, possibly
to the detriment of the serious hobbyist who may be trying to keep up
with such stuff for their favorite species.

Hey Lisa! You still with us?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:43 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, Yes, that's for sure -- I came across oodles of information
on Danionins, which is why I said I had to browse through the stuff
(in order to find info related to this topic, in a timely manner).
Er, uh, by the way, what was the original topic Lisa was looking to
know about (LOL)? Well, its always fun (for us) looking through
scientific literature as for one thing, you often pick up tid bits
that you may not have previously known about.

Looks like you've come up with a most comprehensive list of these
guys, but it appears as though you may have forgotten one, didn't you
(LOL LOL). It does look like you went to the right source though; I
presume you had me in mind (LOL), with the sanity issue.

Just to touch on a few aquatic plants Lisa can use for an India -
S.E. Asian biotope, I'll mention a few but will keep things simple
even though there are a good number of plants which can be used.
Since many of these groups have distributions of various species
pretty much world-wide, I'll narrow it down in most cases to those
found primarily in the region, being somewhat specific, which will
make for some nice aquascaping of such an area.

Some plants that could be included with the fish species of
discussion here are Hydrilla verticillata, Barclaya longifolia,
Ludwigia glandulosa, various Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora and L.
indica), some Hygrophila (H. polysprema and H. difformis - Wisteria),
Rotalla, such as R. wallachii and R. indica), and most any of the
Cryptocorynes, if (which I gather) a regional tank is the objective.
I don't believe Java fern is found on the mainland, nor is Java Moss,
but I could be wrong.

As for mixing of the species, if you goal is not to breed them, most
any of these species can be intermixed, preferably keeping them all
around the same size (they will interbreed, however, if given the
chance). Most will inhabit the same niche of stratum in the
aquarium, which is also something to keep in mind; usually just below
the surface. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20793 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Heating the vinegar may help as well. To remove heavy deposits use a salt and water paste. Only all glass tanks may be carefully scraped with a sharp razor bade. Good Luck!

Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20794 From: snerticus Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Axolotl?
Beautiful shot on the homepage!

Is that an albino Axolotl?

Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20795 From: snerticus Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
I would say that if you got a very small yoyo loach he might (I'm not
going to commit to that though) be fine "growing up" with your
betta. However, since my YoYo is larger and not used to bettas, he
may try and nip at the fins and bully the betta. Like I said
previously, he likes to taunt other fish and especially inverts. Of
course, snails are a delicacy, though he has trouble eating the
Malaysian Trumpets and will only try if they are stupid enough to
come out in the open during the day to forage. All other snails
without a "trap door" to close when threatened are "easy pickins"!

YoYo is a little pig and will eat anything other community fish would
eat. Flake food, pellets, frozen, wafers (he especially likes these)
etc. His belly is always balloon shaped after a big meal or when I
bring larger pond snails home from Petsmart for him. He tends to hog
the food and will chase anything away that comes near the food. I
have him in with my False Siamese Algae Eater, and they seem fine
together, although YoYo has a larger belly at mealtime that the False
SAE. I havn't updated my website in a very long time, but you can see
a picture of him when he was tiny on my website at
www.snerticus.com. (Notice the word "yoyo" on his side!) He's much
larger now and harder to take a picture of because he's so quick and
agile, but when I can get a good shot of him, I'll put one up on my
site.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> If there isn't anything else live in the tank but a male betta,
does the YoYo eat regular tropical fish food or what? These sound
like wonderful fish. I usually stick close to the usual fish -
mollies, swords, etc. but these sound really neat. The betta tank is
a 10g and had a lot of snails, and occasionally now one or two will
appear. What else would go good with them......nothing that will eat
my betta's fins, though. Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20796 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Saltwater_Fish_and_Reef_Aquariums/?yguid=267323422

There is a lot of knowledgeable people here.




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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20797 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)
HIGHLY recommended reading:

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists - By Robert M. Fenner

The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide - By Michael S. Paletta

You can also check out: http://www.reefcentral.com/ and http://www.nano-reef.com Lots of good information on both sites, and the forums are a great resources.

Have fun!

Sean



----- Original Message -----
From: Joseph Reid
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Saltwater group (& hi!)


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Saltwater_Fish_and_Reef_Aquariums/?yguid=267323422

There is a lot of knowledgeable people here.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20798 From: cody adams Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: hello
i know what a jewel ciclid looks like and it not a a
jewel cichlid , jewel cichlids are narrower and long
--- Collin Ticer <cticer2491@...> wrote:

> I looked for a fish that sounded similar to the one
> you described, and it sounds like it could be a
> Jewel Cichlid. Look for a picture of that fish on
> yahoo or google, and see if it looks like the one
> you saw.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: cody adams <cornbread_05@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 5:37:26 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] hello
>
>
> i was at petco today and i was looking in at some
> fish it said red
> devils and pike cichlid on the tank, i saw red
> devils in there and they
> had one pike cichlid. I know petco always makes
> mistakes in mislabeling
> fish and putting them in the wrong tank. put asides
> from the pike
> cichlid or red devils it looked like the had another
> cichlid in there.
> it was orange like a red devil or midas cichlid ,
> but it had spots on
> the side. I know red devils or midas cichlids have
> different colors on
> them. but this particular cichlid had like a row of
> three spots fading
> away on it . can anybody tell me what type of
> cichlids is this ? is it
> a red devil or a wild red devil cichlid or
> something.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20799 From: sbmack7 Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Thanks for the advice from all of you. The hood and the light fixture
are pretty encrusted. And I can't seem to get the residual white
residue off. So the setup works but looks kind of crummy.

BTW, I'm a chemist among other things, and it's hard for me to believe
that there is not a more effective, non-exotic mixture than vinegar.
But oh well...

SteveM

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, gail hopkins <iowakoi@...> wrote:
>
> Heating the vinegar may help as well. To remove heavy deposits use a
salt and water paste. Only all glass tanks may be carefully scraped
with a sharp razor bade. Good Luck!
>
> Thanks,
> Gail Hopkins
> Cell: 641-750-3062
> Richdeer3@... for faster response
> Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Cheap Talk? Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20800 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
But Steve.... There is a reason for the way the vinegar reacts to cleaning a
lot of things, I just can't remember what it is. I clean a lot of things
with vinegar - and denture tablets. I know neither of them are harmful to
people or to the environment and they're cheap.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
BTW, I'm a chemist among other things, and it's hard for me to believe
that there is not a more effective, non-exotic mixture than vinegar.
But oh well...

SteveM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20801 From: Loki Wolf Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
No... the yoyo loaches are stripey and a fairly traditional loach
shape.... kuhli (coolie) loaches are rather eel-like... long and thin
and ropey.... and can be black or light colored...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20802 From: Izabela Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
I have had a snail problem for months. I finally got a couple of
Angelicus loaches, and snails are gone!

Izabela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20803 From: Chad Plum Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
Also if you look with in the strips of the YOYO Loach YOYO is spelled out

Loki Wolf <xxwildechildexx@...> wrote: No... the yoyo loaches are stripey and a fairly traditional loach
shape.... kuhli (coolie) loaches are rather eel-like... long and thin
and ropey.... and can be black or light colored...






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20804 From: AquaticLife Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Axolotl?
Yes, it is an Axolotl,

and an interesting piece of information is that

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axolotl

says they are "Critically endangered"

"The Axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum) is a large Mexican salamander
noted for its demonstration of neoteny, remaining in its aquatic
larval form even as a sexually mature adult and not undergoing
metamorphosis into a terrestrial form. The name axolotl comes from
the Nahuatl language; in Spanish it is called ajolote.

Also, axolotls have cousins often referred to as "mud puppies" that
appear similar and are found throughout Mexico and in many places in
the southern United States. Axolotls usually live more than 10 - 12
years."



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "snerticus" <Snerticus@...> wrote:
>
> Beautiful shot on the homepage!
>
> Is that an albino Axolotl?
>
> Snert
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20805 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
I would say that if you are also replacing the sealant, you should be ok.
The problem with the chemicals is they get absorbed into the silicone and
slowly get released in the water. SO if you are replacing all the caulking,
then it really shouldn’t matter what is used to clean the glass (correct me
if I am mistaken here of course…this is just my opinion) I have never had
to use any heavy duty cleaners. I had one tank I got for free off of
Freecycle. The sides were opaque from all of the mineral deposits on the
sides. I bought a scraper at a local hardware store and scraped what I
could off and then just went over it with a scrubby sponge. When there is
water in the tank, you can’t tell the difference. You can only see the
residue when the water levels drop from evaporation.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 7:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] How to Remove Mineral Deposits?



As someone has already mentioned, vinegar will help to remove the
deposits, however, it does require a good amount of elbow grease as
well. You can always use a single edged razor blade to scrape the
deposits off the glass, and this will get rid of most of the deposit,
but there always seems to be some left, and you re back to the vinegar
method, but since most of the deposit has been removed, you do not need
as much elbow grease.

I have also heard of people using a product called CLR for this task,
and it is supposed to make the job easier than using vinegar, however,
I've never used the product for anything, and I am not quite sure if it
is a viable option for aquariums. Going to the site
http://www.jelmar.com, and looking at the MSDS sheets (registration
required, but you do not need to be honest), using CLR with a good
cleaning after, should be OK. Take a look and make up your own mind.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of sbmack7
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to Remove Mineral Deposits?

I have a neglected 25 gal aquarium that I want to clean up. However
there are deposits from mineral creep not only on the glass but also
on the cover and light fixture. Given that the deposits are so
stubborn, is there any way to clean then up with a reasonable amount
of effort?

Thanks,

SteveM





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20806 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: How to Remove Mineral Deposits?
Vinegar is acetic acid…most mineral deposits dissolve in acid…as well as
many other items. It is a pretty handy cleaner that is fairly mild, yet
cleans pretty good.

Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Camp
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 1:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:How to Remove Mineral Deposits?



But Steve.... There is a reason for the way the vinegar reacts to cleaning a

lot of things, I just can't remember what it is. I clean a lot of things
with vinegar - and denture tablets. I know neither of them are harmful to
people or to the environment and they're cheap.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
BTW, I'm a chemist among other things, and it's hard for me to believe
that there is not a more effective, non-exotic mixture than vinegar.
But oh well...

SteveM





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20807 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snails have got to go!
The YoYo Loach.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1109

The Kuhlii Loach
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=1072




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20808 From: mandyhorsley_2000 Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Pictures from tanks
Hi everyone,

I am a fairly new member and tonight I added several pictures from
two of my tanks, a 75 saltwater and 110 salt. My tank is the 75
gallon tank that I've had running for many years. In this tank I
have 3 tangs, yellow,one unidentified I've had over 3 yrs, blue
regal had for 2yrs (Dory), two black saddleback clowns with 3 bulb
tip anemones that split from just one in only 3 days, 1 blue
chromis, citrine clown goby I've had about 2yrs, 2 large engineer
gobies I've had for a couple of yrs, 6 line wrasse, pixie hawk, one
3 or 4 stripe damsel I've had forever and wish she would just go
away (evil), and valent. puffer. I've probably left some out.
My husband's 110 has a large 2 yr old picasso trigger, dragon
wrasse, small sailfin tang, large yellow tank, HUGE large snake size
snowflake eel, niger trigger (I'll post pics soon, he's beautiful),
and spotted hawk fish. I will be taking pics from my coral nano cube
soon. Check out the pictures I think they are interesting.
Thanks
Amanda J
Bama
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20809 From: Izabela Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Fish "slapping" water surface
My mollies have started "slapping" the surface of the water. If I have
the hood open they will slap so hard that they splash some water out
of the aquarium :) Not that this bothers me too much; it's actually
cute. Do any of you know why they do this? At first I thought this was
the males trying to assert themselves, but the females do this too???
Any ideas?

Izabela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20810 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Steve, Nothing urgent in my previous message -- at least you found
it. As they say, "better late than never." That's quite a number of
messages to have been eaten; it's got to be a pain in the neck
finally getting them all at once.

I've got to agree, Crypts are nice but like you said they can be
touchy when transplanting them. Besides the old favorite (for me)
Amazon Sword plant, I'm also partial to the Crypt group. Once
established, a nice blanket of several of these species in various
locations in the tank can look spectacular.

I don't do as much with plants anymore, as I used to, but I've also
experienced Ludwigia becoming leggy and dropping its bottom-most
leaves if not in conditions to its liking. Never had a problem with
Hygro but have occassionally had Crypts "melt" on me, which they seem
to be famous for especially under too intense lighting. I've had
excellent results with them when grown under some cover of floating
Water Sprite.

On the Leopard vs. Zebra Danio, I do realize that there are "lumpers"
and then there are "splitters" when it comes to the taxonomy of these
fish and like I said I see literature concerning these two names
written both ways. Heck, as we know, they're still sorting out the
Cichlids (seems like they'll never come to one conclusion on many of
them), and it gets near-impossible to keep up with their name
changes. Strangely enough, at least up 'till recently (unless things
have changed) the only Cichlid left in Cichlasoma is a species that
was never in that Genus to begin with, but was an Aequiden. Come to
think of it, there may be one or two more (?) in there now but I'm
not about to research it right now.

Anyway, as I've pointed out, I tend to go along with some of the
original findings by Meinken on Danio frankei in his description of
the fish having differing dorsal fin ray counts from D. rerio even if
the lateral scale count and anal fin ray count is the same. But then
what do I know, I'm not an ichthyologist; I'm still of the opinion
that the original Pterophylum scalare as had earlier been in our
hobby is seldom seen anymore (except for wild Peruvian imports) and
that going by the descriptions of earlier ichthyologists (most
noteably, Pellegrin, Regan and Ahl) and later by Shultz, that what we
now have is either a cross between P. scalare and P. eimekei or P.
eimekei itself, even though it is said by many the this name is now
invalid. For one thing, there seems to me, that there are too many
discrepancies in the counts of the scale rows in these two previously
described "species" (by the above authors) for them to have become
seemingly overlooked or disregarded apparently more recently. As
originally described, P. scalare has 38 to 40 oblique scale rows from
the upper edge of the opercular opening to the base of the caudal fin
(in a straight line, just below the peduncular lateral line), whereas
the count for P. eimekei varies from 28 to 36. With some error there
may be some overlapping, but overall it would seem to appear somewhat
different, at least as I look at it. This may be slightly "off
topic" here and might best be pursued on another forum, but its just
how I happen to see it. Best regards, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Your message was eaten by the Exchange Internet Message Filter on my
> server, so I did not see it until yesterday when I was cleaning up
all
> the messages trapped by it (1394 for this week, with 6 false
positives,
> if you are interested).
>
> You produced a nice listing of plants for Lisa, if she is still
around,
> we may have lost her by the third message in this thread <g>. All I
> could think of last week were the crypts, and one must be prepared
for
> the die back they will experience upon transplanting them, but come
back
> they will. While a tank full of various crypts will look very nice,
they
> can be hard to come by in many stores, especially the taller ones.
This
> may have something to do with the die back issue.
>
> I'd suggest that Lisa look up the plants you mention and then make
her
> decisions based on her findings. Beside the problem, if you want to
call
> it that, of the crypts dieing back, I've had problems with hydro
> becoming leggy, which some attribute to the lighting, but I suspect
> other things are in play as well. Ludwigia is also a problematic
plant
> in my experience.
>
> The sanity comment applies to both of us, and many in the list are
> probably questioning it through this thread <g>. Most really don't
care
> if a leopard danio is a color variation of a zebra fish or a
subspecies
> or a separate species. I do suspect, however, that the splitters
will be
> in 7th heaven with DNA studies of fish, showing minor variations
that
> will allow them to name new species at an unprecedented rate,
possibly
> to the detriment of the serious hobbyist who may be trying to keep
up
> with such stuff for their favorite species.
>
> Hey Lisa! You still with us?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:43 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, Yes, that's for sure -- I came across oodles of information
> on Danionins, which is why I said I had to browse through the stuff
> (in order to find info related to this topic, in a timely manner).
> Er, uh, by the way, what was the original topic Lisa was looking to
> know about (LOL)? Well, its always fun (for us) looking through
> scientific literature as for one thing, you often pick up tid bits
> that you may not have previously known about.
>
> Looks like you've come up with a most comprehensive list of these
> guys, but it appears as though you may have forgotten one, didn't
you
> (LOL LOL). It does look like you went to the right source though;
I
> presume you had me in mind (LOL), with the sanity issue.
>
> Just to touch on a few aquatic plants Lisa can use for an India -
> S.E. Asian biotope, I'll mention a few but will keep things simple
> even though there are a good number of plants which can be used.
> Since many of these groups have distributions of various species
> pretty much world-wide, I'll narrow it down in most cases to those
> found primarily in the region, being somewhat specific, which will
> make for some nice aquascaping of such an area.
>
> Some plants that could be included with the fish species of
> discussion here are Hydrilla verticillata, Barclaya longifolia,
> Ludwigia glandulosa, various Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora and
L.
> indica), some Hygrophila (H. polysprema and H. difformis -
Wisteria),
> Rotalla, such as R. wallachii and R. indica), and most any of the
> Cryptocorynes, if (which I gather) a regional tank is the
objective.
> I don't believe Java fern is found on the mainland, nor is Java
Moss,
> but I could be wrong.
>
> As for mixing of the species, if you goal is not to breed them,
most
> any of these species can be intermixed, preferably keeping them all
> around the same size (they will interbreed, however, if given the
> chance). Most will inhabit the same niche of stratum in the
> aquarium, which is also something to keep in mind; usually just
below
> the surface. Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20811 From: quietari Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20812 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
I am a big fan of the Rummynose Tetra. Bright red face and cool racing stripes on the tail! :)

http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=901&N=0

I've got 3 in my 100g tank and will probably get some more. They are great looking fish.


----- Original Message -----
From: quietari
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for fish now! (yipee!)


First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20813 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
No idea why they did this, but when I was a kid, Mollies were notorious
in our house for jumping out of our tank if the lid was not secured.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20814 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
They're probably playing. Mollies are funny fish. I've got one that will swim into my cupped hand to be fed. After I feed her she will swim around until I "pet" her. Never seen a fish so starved for physical attention...


----- Original Message -----
From: cynthia brennemann
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:52 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish "slapping" water surface


No idea why they did this, but when I was a kid, Mollies were notorious
in our house for jumping out of our tank if the lid was not secured.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20815 From: Chad Plum Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
another good one but kind of expensive is the Roseline Shark also a Barb but very pertty in a school I have 6 of them in mt 150

"Sean C. Figueroa" <scfigueroa@...> wrote: I am a big fan of the Rummynose Tetra. Bright red face and cool racing stripes on the tail! :)

http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=901&N=0

I've got 3 in my 100g tank and will probably get some more. They are great looking fish.

----- Original Message -----
From: quietari
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:33 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for fish now! (yipee!)

First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20816 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
I've had wonderful luck with the headlight/taillight tetras and the blueberry or strawberry tetras. They get along great with just about anything.....I've had by strawberry/blueberry pair for about a year and a half.....this pair hasn't faded in color, either....they're really pretty. Glad you got the yoyo's, too.....


----- Original Message ----
From: quietari <quietari@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:33:20 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for fish now! (yipee!)

First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!






____________________________________________________________________________________
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20817 From: chris topher Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
my favorite tetras are called rummy nose

red faces, white body, black and white checkered
tails...


--- quietari <quietari@...> wrote:

> First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my
> snail problem. I
> now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
> affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the
> los angeles area
> might recognize the name).
>
> Now that my planted tank is finally comming
> together, i am looking to
> add some fish. Naturally i want something that
> schools, and i would
> like to stay away from those tetras with that
> mesmorizing blue stripe
> down their side (since every planted tank picture
> ive seen has them).
>
> I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking
> fish with some red in
> it. I was thinking something along the lines of
> danios or maybe some
> of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of
> gourmi's and goldfish
> (all varities). Yes i am this picky.
>
> I am looking for something with some red it in it,
> to contrast the
> green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf
> hairgrass carpets).
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks for reading this!
>
>




test'; ">



____________________________________________________________________________________
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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20818 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fish "slapping" water surface
I'm not sure either but my group of mollies are absolute characters, I keep the water level down a tad just so when they are impersonating dolphins no one ends up on the floor. The whole group is playful I kept blaming it on them watching my cichlids and the games they play with me but I see mine aren't the only ones. And the water on the floor is pretty normal don't even stress over just keep the mop out or towels designated for that as have a couple tanks if they think I'm late with one of their meals they make sure my attention is gotten through a shower LOL one of these days though pretty sure their going to kill my pc.

Shannon

"Sean C. Figueroa" <scfigueroa@...> wrote:
They're probably playing. Mollies are funny fish. I've got one that will swim into my cupped hand to be fed. After I feed her she will swim around until I "pet" her. Never seen a fish so starved for physical attention...

----- Original Message -----
From: cynthia brennemann
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:52 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish "slapping" water surface

No idea why they did this, but when I was a kid, Mollies were notorious
in our house for jumping out of our tank if the lid was not secured.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20819 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
I like the serpae(?) tetras, have a school of them along with pristella, headlight, ruby red tetras in a somewhat planted tank along with a pair of white butterfly discus, gotten to be one of the favorites around here for color and flash.

Shannon

chris topher <humbottom@...> wrote:
my favorite tetras are called rummy nose

red faces, white body, black and white checkered
tails...

--- quietari <quietari@...> wrote:

> First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my
> snail problem. I
> now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
> affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the
> los angeles area
> might recognize the name).
>
> Now that my planted tank is finally comming
> together, i am looking to
> add some fish. Naturally i want something that
> schools, and i would
> like to stay away from those tetras with that
> mesmorizing blue stripe
> down their side (since every planted tank picture
> ive seen has them).
>
> I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking
> fish with some red in
> it. I was thinking something along the lines of
> danios or maybe some
> of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of
> gourmi's and goldfish
> (all varities). Yes i am this picky.
>
> I am looking for something with some red it in it,
> to contrast the
> green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf
> hairgrass carpets).
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks for reading this!
>
>

test'; ">

__________________________________________________________
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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20820 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Saltwater group (& hi!)
Hi Leslie,

I belong to a great saltwater list called Saltwater_Fish_and_Reef_Aquariums. I'd check out their group on Yahoo at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Saltwater_Fish_and_Reef_Aquariums/

You can also try forums like talkingreef.com reefcentral.com, both are very informative and helpful.

-Valeen


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20821 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
albino red-eyed tetras are good, non "NEON" type of tetras you
described you didn't want, colorful and schooling. The white and red
red eyes should contrast.

Or any type of Rasbora, here is a link with some pics of some..

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile25.html

http://tropicalfishgallery.com/species-gallery/cyprinid/heteromorpha.html

for what it's worth.

Wen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20822 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
sword tails, neon tetras

quietari <quietari@...> wrote: First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20823 From: hank voss Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
> I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
> green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass
carpets).
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks for reading this!
===========================
Gold barbs would be a good choice for a black substrate and
they are tough as nails will get red fins and belly once they are used
to the tank.Glow lite tetras are another one,serpaes are good also.I
would stay away from the rummy-nose tets till the tank is established
since they are fussy about new water.You still cant go wrong with neons
or cardinals for a good show.Red eyed tets are rather nippy esp. when
they get larger.A school of black neons would also work.also gold tetras
(but no red in the last two)There are a lot of others but you may not
be able to find them in most LFS the ones above are quite common.
Good luck Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20824 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very edge, is raggedy
looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal
otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and
how to treat it?
Thanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20825 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?

----- Original Message ----
From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting













Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very edge, is raggedy

looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal

otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and

how to treat it?

Thanks.














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20826 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Ray,

Don't get me started about the fish in the hobby these days. Nothing is really like the wild species any more, no matter how the taxonomists split them up. It seems that everyone is breeding for the vivid colors or, at least, different colors, and the long fins, and other odd body parts. One of the fish I really like is the dwarf gourami--_Colisa lalia_--but try to find one with the natural colors, then try to find a female for it, should you happen to stumble across a male.

If you are not buying rift lake cichlids from the wild, you simply do not know if you have gotten something that is really a hybrid.

And, while we are on cichlids (trying to please everyone on the list here <g>), look at what has been done to the discus, both development of strains and with taxonomy. You do remember the tazoo thread on AHHS, don't you? [for those of you who may wonder what AHHS is, it is a group of old guys who talk about the way things were back in the day. There is a lot of history out there dealing with aquaria.]

Also, since the angel plague back in the 80's, I haven't seen any quantity of angels that are grown to their full potential. For those of you out there who have never seen a full grown angel, imagine the angels that you have seen, with a length of 6-8" from the tip of the snout to the caudal peduncle, and 10-12" from the tip of the dorsal to the tip of the anal. Truly a magnificent fish. When I was but a wee sprout, knee high to a grasshopper, my father raised angels, in several tanks around the house, most of which he built himself, so he could have the height for fin development.

Oh, wait a second. We were talking danios. How about the long finned varieties of these guys? And now the genetically altered ones that fluoresce under the right light?

Hmmm, still haven't heard from Lisa. Hope we haven't scared her away.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 11:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, Nothing urgent in my previous message -- at least you found
it. As they say, "better late than never." That's quite a number of
messages to have been eaten; it's got to be a pain in the neck
finally getting them all at once.

I've got to agree, Crypts are nice but like you said they can be
touchy when transplanting them. Besides the old favorite (for me)
Amazon Sword plant, I'm also partial to the Crypt group. Once
established, a nice blanket of several of these species in various
locations in the tank can look spectacular.

I don't do as much with plants anymore, as I used to, but I've also
experienced Ludwigia becoming leggy and dropping its bottom-most
leaves if not in conditions to its liking. Never had a problem with
Hygro but have occassionally had Crypts "melt" on me, which they seem
to be famous for especially under too intense lighting. I've had
excellent results with them when grown under some cover of floating
Water Sprite.

On the Leopard vs. Zebra Danio, I do realize that there are "lumpers"
and then there are "splitters" when it comes to the taxonomy of these
fish and like I said I see literature concerning these two names
written both ways. Heck, as we know, they're still sorting out the
Cichlids (seems like they'll never come to one conclusion on many of
them), and it gets near-impossible to keep up with their name
changes. Strangely enough, at least up 'till recently (unless things
have changed) the only Cichlid left in Cichlasoma is a species that
was never in that Genus to begin with, but was an Aequiden. Come to
think of it, there may be one or two more (?) in there now but I'm
not about to research it right now.

Anyway, as I've pointed out, I tend to go along with some of the
original findings by Meinken on Danio frankei in his description of
the fish having differing dorsal fin ray counts from D. rerio even if
the lateral scale count and anal fin ray count is the same. But then
what do I know, I'm not an ichthyologist; I'm still of the opinion
that the original Pterophylum scalare as had earlier been in our
hobby is seldom seen anymore (except for wild Peruvian imports) and
that going by the descriptions of earlier ichthyologists (most
noteably, Pellegrin, Regan and Ahl) and later by Shultz, that what we
now have is either a cross between P. scalare and P. eimekei or P.
eimekei itself, even though it is said by many the this name is now
invalid. For one thing, there seems to me, that there are too many
discrepancies in the counts of the scale rows in these two previously
described "species" (by the above authors) for them to have become
seemingly overlooked or disregarded apparently more recently. As
originally described, P. scalare has 38 to 40 oblique scale rows from
the upper edge of the opercular opening to the base of the caudal fin
(in a straight line, just below the peduncular lateral line), whereas
the count for P. eimekei varies from 28 to 36. With some error there
may be some overlapping, but overall it would seem to appear somewhat
different, at least as I look at it. This may be slightly "off
topic" here and might best be pursued on another forum, but its just
how I happen to see it. Best regards, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Your message was eaten by the Exchange Internet Message Filter on my
> server, so I did not see it until yesterday when I was cleaning up
all
> the messages trapped by it (1394 for this week, with 6 false
positives,
> if you are interested).
>
> You produced a nice listing of plants for Lisa, if she is still
around,
> we may have lost her by the third message in this thread <g>. All I
> could think of last week were the crypts, and one must be prepared
for
> the die back they will experience upon transplanting them, but come
back
> they will. While a tank full of various crypts will look very nice,
they
> can be hard to come by in many stores, especially the taller ones.
This
> may have something to do with the die back issue.
>
> I'd suggest that Lisa look up the plants you mention and then make
her
> decisions based on her findings. Beside the problem, if you want to
call
> it that, of the crypts dieing back, I've had problems with hydro
> becoming leggy, which some attribute to the lighting, but I suspect
> other things are in play as well. Ludwigia is also a problematic
plant
> in my experience.
>
> The sanity comment applies to both of us, and many in the list are
> probably questioning it through this thread <g>. Most really don't
care
> if a leopard danio is a color variation of a zebra fish or a
subspecies
> or a separate species. I do suspect, however, that the splitters
will be
> in 7th heaven with DNA studies of fish, showing minor variations
that
> will allow them to name new species at an unprecedented rate,
possibly
> to the detriment of the serious hobbyist who may be trying to keep
up
> with such stuff for their favorite species.
>
> Hey Lisa! You still with us?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:43 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, Yes, that's for sure -- I came across oodles of information
> on Danionins, which is why I said I had to browse through the stuff
> (in order to find info related to this topic, in a timely manner).
> Er, uh, by the way, what was the original topic Lisa was looking to
> know about (LOL)? Well, its always fun (for us) looking through
> scientific literature as for one thing, you often pick up tid bits
> that you may not have previously known about.
>
> Looks like you've come up with a most comprehensive list of these
> guys, but it appears as though you may have forgotten one, didn't
you
> (LOL LOL). It does look like you went to the right source though;
I
> presume you had me in mind (LOL), with the sanity issue.
>
> Just to touch on a few aquatic plants Lisa can use for an India -
> S.E. Asian biotope, I'll mention a few but will keep things simple
> even though there are a good number of plants which can be used.
> Since many of these groups have distributions of various species
> pretty much world-wide, I'll narrow it down in most cases to those
> found primarily in the region, being somewhat specific, which will
> make for some nice aquascaping of such an area.
>
> Some plants that could be included with the fish species of
> discussion here are Hydrilla verticillata, Barclaya longifolia,
> Ludwigia glandulosa, various Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora and
L.
> indica), some Hygrophila (H. polysprema and H. difformis -
Wisteria),
> Rotalla, such as R. wallachii and R. indica), and most any of the
> Cryptocorynes, if (which I gather) a regional tank is the
objective.
> I don't believe Java fern is found on the mainland, nor is Java
Moss,
> but I could be wrong.
>
> As for mixing of the species, if you goal is not to breed them,
most
> any of these species can be intermixed, preferably keeping them all
> around the same size (they will interbreed, however, if given the
> chance). Most will inhabit the same niche of stratum in the
> aquarium, which is also something to keep in mind; usually just
below
> the surface. Ray
>




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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: FW: TFSRI "Deuces Wild" Annual Fish Auction, Sunday March 11th
Anybody who happens to be near Rhode Island (I'd say Providence, but it IS
such a small state) might want to make some plans to take this in. Not only
will you see some good deals on the fish, but you'll get to spend a good
portion of the day in a room full of people who are at least as nuts as you
are. You might even get to meet and talk with some of the famous names in
the hobby. Lee Finley attends these things from time to time, as does Tony
Terciera, and I've know Karen Randall to find her way down into Rhode Island
a time or two. When I was living in MA, I made it down to their events a few
times a year. It was always a good time.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: Wagonblott, Allen, CIV, ONI [mailto:allen.wagonblott@...]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 10:39 AM
To:
Subject: RE: TFSRI "Deuces Wild" Annual Fish Auction, Sunday March 11th

The Tropical Fish Society of Rhode Island's annual "Deuces
Wild" auction is only 4 weeks away on Sunday, March 11th at St Joseph
Church hall (located behind the church) in Cumberland, RI. Same as last
year. You don't want to miss this one! It is one of the premier auctions
in the Northeast!!!!
Come out an enjoy a day with friendly people, good food and
lots of deals. This year again the kitchen will feature Siony's
"Filipino Dishes and yes those Fried Bananas".
Remember only 3 bags per species and 15 lots total per
vendor. (additional lots will be considered donations to TFSRI)
For auction information, flyers, and vendor forms, please
visit TFSRI's web site at: http://www.tfsri.org under "Annual Spring
Auction" block.
For additional information or questions please contact me via
my email above. For pre-registers you may email, or fax vendor forms to
me at (401) 841-3034. I am currently issuing lot numbers along with a
bidder number to all pre-registers.
So forward this on to your other fellow club members and
fishy friends. We hope to see you there!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20828 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for fish now! (yipee!)
I don' think one needs to be from LA to know of the Whiskey a GoGo, a
club that has been around since the mid 60's.

If you don't want neons., how about some cardinal tetras? Much more red
in them than in neons. If you tank is on the cooler side, you might
consider some white cloud mountain fish, in good condition they have an
almost bronze back, with a yellowier belly, separated with a narrow red
and a broader white stripe. The colors of the white cloud only really
show in cooler temperatures.

Cherry barbs, in warmer water will have a lovely red shading to them.

If you want a deeper bodied fish, look at the serpae tetras already
mentioned, as were the bleeding hearts.

You did express an interest in rasboras, and the harlequin would be a
nice choice here. There is also a smallish fish, a rasbora, that has a
red coloring to it, but, for the life of me, the name of it is not
coming to mind.

If you don't already have a book like the Baensch Atlas, get one, and
look through it for fish that may be of interest to you, and come back
with some suggestions of your own.

If you can find some, _Aphyosemion australe_ would make a nice addition
to your tank. Their basic color is orange (unless you get the chocolate
variety).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of quietari
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 12:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for fish now! (yipee!)

First off thanks to everyone who provided info on my snail problem. I
now have two loving (young) yoyo loaches, named
affectionately "Whiskey" and "Gogo" (anyone in the los angeles area
might recognize the name).

Now that my planted tank is finally comming together, i am looking to
add some fish. Naturally i want something that schools, and i would
like to stay away from those tetras with that mesmorizing blue stripe
down their side (since every planted tank picture ive seen has them).

I was hoping someone could suggest a nice looking fish with some red in
it. I was thinking something along the lines of danios or maybe some
of the more exotic type tetras. Not a fan of gourmi's and goldfish
(all varities). Yes i am this picky.

I am looking for something with some red it in it, to contrast the
green (plants) and black (substrate until my dwarf hairgrass carpets).
Any suggestions?

Thanks for reading this!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20829 From: hank voss Date: 2/12/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Oh, wait a second. We were talking danios.
>
> Hmmm, still haven't heard from Lisa. Hope we haven't scared her away.
======================
Lisa will be gone for a while she"s out looking for all those
danios . ( she should be back in a year or so.)
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20830 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Steve, Appears as if I've gotten your adrenaline going, as you now
have mine. A lively and spirited (and harmonious) discussion is
always to my liking, on aquatic subjects, which has now gotten me
started. We (meaning the aquarium trade players as a whole) could
never begin to attempt to copy the beauty of nature or of any of the
wild forms of our many aquarium species. The sports of long fins or
albinism will always be promoted though as long as they keep
appearing in our tanks, as they have been from the beginnings of our
hobby (witness the Betta). Then too, as we know, the development of
both the Brick and the Blood Red Swordtail and various Platy color
varieties back in the '30's proved popular with the hobbyists as
vivid colors are sought after, and I do even need to go into the
popularity of the present development of the Guppy.

But, just as it seems you're pointing out, this has gotten way out of
proportion as with the myriad of Discus strains too numerous for me
to count, with new ones being produced all the time. A main problem,
and sad part, is that many of these fish are being produced and
CONTROLLED by a small faction of breeders in an attempt to line their
own pockets, who are not even in this country. How well I remember
Colisia lalia; I first started breeding this fish as a teenager in
1953. As you brought out, now you can't even find a female if you
wanted to breed them (and if you could find a normal, wild colored
male); the females are intentionally being withheld in these
shipments. This goes as well for many of the various Australian and
New Guinea species of Rainbowfish (all males and no females), if you
can find any which have not been interbred. These Asian breeders are
getting rich at the expense of the average hobbyist in this country
who no longer has the option to breed many of these species.

In this whole picture, this serves only to diminish the hobby in this
country (and around the world) while quick short-term profits are
being made, with the long term consequences that there may not be as
many people in the hobby some years down the road resulting in part
from their being curtailed in their endeavors. Far too much short
sightedness here -- while many asinine laws are being passed here on
our tropical fish, this disdainful and damaging practice should be
looked into and boycotted for the good of the hobby.

Do I remember the Tarzoo thread on AHHS? -- Yes indeed, although I
didn't know we could mention another group. It was partly with this
in mind (especially the replies made by our friend Bobby E.) that I
brought up the taxonomy of Angelfish. I too remember those
magnificent 6" to 8" long Angels with a height of from 10" to 12" --
and were NOT talking about Altums here -- I had them when I was a
kid and remember them well; this was in the very early '50's.
Today's Angels do not even begin to approach this size (and I'm
including my own here as well). By the time I began seriously
breeding Angels in the mid '60's, these Angels were not to be found
for the most part, and are certainly not in the hobby today; one more
reason why I believe today's fish is P. eimekei (a somewhat smaller
member of this Genus) or a cross between it and P. scalare, rather
than the true P. scalare which was always a much larger fish. While
this is certainly no positive proof, I get more convinced when I look
back on the original taxonomical works of the early describers and
wonder why today's name change came about, with this much evidence.

Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but it
was well before this time that the species' size began
deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru to
keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming in
from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion and
I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll soon
see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).

Getting back to Danios, hmm -- since these species can easily be
crossed, how about some long-finned flourescent glo-lite Giant Danios
(LOL). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Don't get me started about the fish in the hobby these days.
Nothing is really like the wild species any more, no matter how the
taxonomists split them up. It seems that everyone is breeding for the
vivid colors or, at least, different colors, and the long fins, and
other odd body parts. One of the fish I really like is the dwarf
gourami--_Colisa lalia_--but try to find one with the natural colors,
then try to find a female for it, should you happen to stumble across
a male.
>
> If you are not buying rift lake cichlids from the wild, you simply
do not know if you have gotten something that is really a hybrid.
>
> And, while we are on cichlids (trying to please everyone on the
list here <g>), look at what has been done to the discus, both
development of strains and with taxonomy. You do remember the tazoo
thread on AHHS, don't you? [for those of you who may wonder what AHHS
is, it is a group of old guys who talk about the way things were back
in the day. There is a lot of history out there dealing with
aquaria.]
>
> Also, since the angel plague back in the 80's, I haven't seen any
quantity of angels that are grown to their full potential. For those
of you out there who have never seen a full grown angel, imagine the
angels that you have seen, with a length of 6-8" from the tip of the
snout to the caudal peduncle, and 10-12" from the tip of the dorsal
to the tip of the anal. Truly a magnificent fish. When I was but a
wee sprout, knee high to a grasshopper, my father raised angels, in
several tanks around the house, most of which he built himself, so he
could have the height for fin development.
>
> Oh, wait a second. We were talking danios. How about the long
finned varieties of these guys? And now the genetically altered ones
that fluoresce under the right light?
>
> Hmmm, still haven't heard from Lisa. Hope we haven't scared her
away.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 11:11 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, Nothing urgent in my previous message -- at least you found
> it. As they say, "better late than never." That's quite a number
of
> messages to have been eaten; it's got to be a pain in the neck
> finally getting them all at once.
>
> I've got to agree, Crypts are nice but like you said they can be
> touchy when transplanting them. Besides the old favorite (for me)
> Amazon Sword plant, I'm also partial to the Crypt group. Once
> established, a nice blanket of several of these species in various
> locations in the tank can look spectacular.
>
> I don't do as much with plants anymore, as I used to, but I've
also
> experienced Ludwigia becoming leggy and dropping its bottom-most
> leaves if not in conditions to its liking. Never had a problem
with
> Hygro but have occassionally had Crypts "melt" on me, which they
seem
> to be famous for especially under too intense lighting. I've had
> excellent results with them when grown under some cover of floating
> Water Sprite.
>
> On the Leopard vs. Zebra Danio, I do realize that there
are "lumpers"
> and then there are "splitters" when it comes to the taxonomy of
these
> fish and like I said I see literature concerning these two names
> written both ways. Heck, as we know, they're still sorting out the
> Cichlids (seems like they'll never come to one conclusion on many
of
> them), and it gets near-impossible to keep up with their name
> changes. Strangely enough, at least up 'till recently (unless
things
> have changed) the only Cichlid left in Cichlasoma is a species that
> was never in that Genus to begin with, but was an Aequiden. Come
to
> think of it, there may be one or two more (?) in there now but I'm
> not about to research it right now.
>
> Anyway, as I've pointed out, I tend to go along with some of the
> original findings by Meinken on Danio frankei in his description of
> the fish having differing dorsal fin ray counts from D. rerio even
if
> the lateral scale count and anal fin ray count is the same. But
then
> what do I know, I'm not an ichthyologist; I'm still of the opinion
> that the original Pterophylum scalare as had earlier been in our
> hobby is seldom seen anymore (except for wild Peruvian imports) and
> that going by the descriptions of earlier ichthyologists (most
> noteably, Pellegrin, Regan and Ahl) and later by Shultz, that what
we
> now have is either a cross between P. scalare and P. eimekei or P.
> eimekei itself, even though it is said by many the this name is now
> invalid. For one thing, there seems to me, that there are too many
> discrepancies in the counts of the scale rows in these two
previously
> described "species" (by the above authors) for them to have become
> seemingly overlooked or disregarded apparently more recently. As
> originally described, P. scalare has 38 to 40 oblique scale rows
from
> the upper edge of the opercular opening to the base of the caudal
fin
> (in a straight line, just below the peduncular lateral line),
whereas
> the count for P. eimekei varies from 28 to 36. With some error
there
> may be some overlapping, but overall it would seem to appear
somewhat
> different, at least as I look at it. This may be slightly "off
> topic" here and might best be pursued on another forum, but its
just
> how I happen to see it. Best regards, Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > Your message was eaten by the Exchange Internet Message Filter on
my
> > server, so I did not see it until yesterday when I was cleaning
up
> all
> > the messages trapped by it (1394 for this week, with 6 false
> positives,
> > if you are interested).
> >
> > You produced a nice listing of plants for Lisa, if she is still
> around,
> > we may have lost her by the third message in this thread <g>. All
I
> > could think of last week were the crypts, and one must be
prepared
> for
> > the die back they will experience upon transplanting them, but
come
> back
> > they will. While a tank full of various crypts will look very
nice,
> they
> > can be hard to come by in many stores, especially the taller
ones.
> This
> > may have something to do with the die back issue.
> >
> > I'd suggest that Lisa look up the plants you mention and then
make
> her
> > decisions based on her findings. Beside the problem, if you want
to
> call
> > it that, of the crypts dieing back, I've had problems with hydro
> > becoming leggy, which some attribute to the lighting, but I
suspect
> > other things are in play as well. Ludwigia is also a problematic
> plant
> > in my experience.
> >
> > The sanity comment applies to both of us, and many in the list are
> > probably questioning it through this thread <g>. Most really
don't
> care
> > if a leopard danio is a color variation of a zebra fish or a
> subspecies
> > or a separate species. I do suspect, however, that the splitters
> will be
> > in 7th heaven with DNA studies of fish, showing minor variations
> that
> > will allow them to name new species at an unprecedented rate,
> possibly
> > to the detriment of the serious hobbyist who may be trying to
keep
> up
> > with such stuff for their favorite species.
> >
> > Hey Lisa! You still with us?
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:43 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
> >
> > Steve, Yes, that's for sure -- I came across oodles of
information
> > on Danionins, which is why I said I had to browse through the
stuff
> > (in order to find info related to this topic, in a timely
manner).
> > Er, uh, by the way, what was the original topic Lisa was looking
to
> > know about (LOL)? Well, its always fun (for us) looking through
> > scientific literature as for one thing, you often pick up tid
bits
> > that you may not have previously known about.
> >
> > Looks like you've come up with a most comprehensive list of these
> > guys, but it appears as though you may have forgotten one, didn't
> you
> > (LOL LOL). It does look like you went to the right source
though;
> I
> > presume you had me in mind (LOL), with the sanity issue.
> >
> > Just to touch on a few aquatic plants Lisa can use for an India -
> > S.E. Asian biotope, I'll mention a few but will keep things
simple
> > even though there are a good number of plants which can be used.
> > Since many of these groups have distributions of various species
> > pretty much world-wide, I'll narrow it down in most cases to
those
> > found primarily in the region, being somewhat specific, which
will
> > make for some nice aquascaping of such an area.
> >
> > Some plants that could be included with the fish species of
> > discussion here are Hydrilla verticillata, Barclaya longifolia,
> > Ludwigia glandulosa, various Ambulia (Limnophila sessiliflora and
> L.
> > indica), some Hygrophila (H. polysprema and H. difformis -
> Wisteria),
> > Rotalla, such as R. wallachii and R. indica), and most any of the
> > Cryptocorynes, if (which I gather) a regional tank is the
> objective.
> > I don't believe Java fern is found on the mainland, nor is Java
> Moss,
> > but I could be wrong.
> >
> > As for mixing of the species, if you goal is not to breed them,
> most
> > any of these species can be intermixed, preferably keeping them
all
> > around the same size (they will interbreed, however, if given the
> > chance). Most will inhabit the same niche of stratum in the
> > aquarium, which is also something to keep in mind; usually just
> below
> > the surface. Ray
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20831 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: was at a petco yesterday
and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my favorites also my
first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was just
there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of them
being females right or wrong
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20832 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
in our neighborhood we have a family of very crazy people they sell
live bait for fishing and that sorta thing and they also have been
known to have alligators for pets and other (exotic pets) but when they
get to big they release them into the neighborhood these people r very
crazy as in they don t believe in sending there kids to school anyone
have some ideas on how to care for it or what to do with it, it is
about 2 feet long
the local zoo s won t take it

lol ok that was mostly just a joke about the alligator but the story
about the family wasn t actually there was 1 alligator caught before in
our town and it was believed to be owned by this family lol and this is
in the state of pennsylvania
oh yeah i live in a very small town of maybe 500 people located bout 30
minutes south of pittsburgh PA
it is funny how these small towns like this have these kinda crazy
people
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20833 From: Sacred Wind Arabians Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: betta questions
I was thinking about geting some bettas,
I know severel people that have had bettas and they all look pretty droopy coming from walmart or the LFS. I have been on aquabid and seen the beautifull pics of some for sale there. If I were to buy those fish that look to be healthy and of quality will they be more active and nice looking or is a betta a betta? Also have been reading up and severel places say you can keep femals together does anyone have experience with this? Also I have a 29 gal tank with just 3 snails in it, can I put bettas with snails? Also how many females could I put in my 29 gal?
Thanks Kimberly


Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20834 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this is the first 1
i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had this h
appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it down
for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer for
it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of the
rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i wash
them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water i
also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the best
idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29 gallon
tank
should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it couldn
t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20835 From: Karen M Smith Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
1.I bought many healthy beautiful bettas from Victoria Parnell. she has a forum you should join http://p105.ezboard.com/bchampionbettas30805. I have kept many females in a well planted 46 gal tank. They would fight occasionally but all was well once the dominant female made her point. You need lots of plants and hiding places. I broke up little clay flower pots to make caves.
2.Yes snails are OK with bettas. At least in my experience.
3.I know there are many great vendors on Aquabid but you should join that forum I mentioned to learn which are good to buy from. I was a member when I kept bettas.
Karen

Sacred Wind Arabians <kimvoo2003@...> wrote:
I was thinking about geting some bettas,
I know severel people that have had bettas and they all look pretty droopy coming from walmart or the LFS. I have been on aquabid and seen the beautifull pics of some for sale there. If I were to buy those fish that look to be healthy and of quality will they be more active and nice looking or is a betta a betta? Also have been reading up and severel places say you can keep femals together does anyone have experience with this? Also I have a 29 gal tank with just 3 snails in it, can I put bettas with snails? Also how many females could I put in my 29 gal?
Thanks Kimberly

Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breederoo.com/members/MyDreamsheps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20836 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
Been using alot of river gravel (pea size) in some of the tanks that I'm switching over to more substrate spawners, it is interesting that you are having a problem with it being cloudy. Course its been a while since I've had to start over with the whole cycling process, always cheat with water and such from other tanks around here.

Whenever I do the vinegar test on rocks of any size I boil them for at least 5 minutes afterwards just to be a safe killing any extra things/bacteria and such that may still be attached then let cool over night. Personally would do another water change but this is JMO

Shannon

steve <steve01@...> wrote:
have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this is the first 1
i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had this h
appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it down
for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer for
it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of the
rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i wash
them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water i
also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the best
idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29 gallon
tank
should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it couldn
t hurt it just a longer cycling time right






---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20837 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
No - I've never heard of that. Iodine in what form? Do pet stores have
it specifically for this purpose? She molted about two months ago,
ate most of the old shell, and I haven't seen any problem until
yesterday. (She's over a year old)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very
edge, is raggedy
>
> looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal
>
> otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and
>
> how to treat it?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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____________________________________________________________________________________
> Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20838 From: Patti M Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Newbie with a question
Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
releasing.

I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
cycles and I get fish in there.......

Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
power filter system?

Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20839 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
I used to raise crays.. I always added some KENT brand reef iodine,
and KENT brand liquid calcium to suppliment once a week, with water
changes. Helped out all my snail shells and crays. (You can add this
to your freshwater for your shelled FW livestock). Along with keeping
my PH neutral or slightly alkalotic, this helped. If the PH gets too
low, too acidic, the shells start to degrade on my snails and crays.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> No - I've never heard of that. Iodine in what form? Do pet stores have
> it specifically for this purpose? She molted about two months ago,
> ate most of the old shell, and I haven't seen any problem until
> yesterday. (She's over a year old)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@> wrote:
> >
> > Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very
> edge, is raggedy
> >
> > looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal
> >
> > otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and
> >
> > how to treat it?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> > Ask your question on www.Answers.yahoo.com
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20840 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
Patti,

I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

#1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
"REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
my Fluval 405 canister filter.

Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
water changes.

I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
submerged.

Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> releasing.
>
> I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
>
> Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> cycles and I get fish in there.......
>
> Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> power filter system?
>
> Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
>
> Patti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20841 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
WHoops.. forgot to tell the cons.

Only con i've found.. is that I have to replace the airstones in 2 of
my 4 uplift tubes once every couple months or so, and take a tube
brush and clean/brush the tubes out about the same time (once every
couple months). Powerheads should be inspected, at least once a
month, to make sure impellers are not covered with debris. I brush
mine clean them with a toothbrush, once a month.

Another con.. if you have two power heads, you will have two more
electrical items to plug in. Well worth the electrical strip! You
get more out of the UGF with the powerheads.

I recommend the penguin (has a good reverse flow system you can get
with it), and the aquaclear brands. I have one large aquaclear and a
penguin reverse flow setup, and two tubes with airstones on my 90G.

If that is the only "cons" i've had in the last 5 years, it just boils
down to just cleaning them every once in a while.

Wendy ;-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> releasing.
>
> I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
>
> Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> cycles and I get fish in there.......
>
> Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> power filter system?
>
> Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
>
> Patti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20842 From: Patti M. Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Newbie with another question!
Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response. I REALLY appreciate it.

Here is another question.

I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like for giving medicine etc.

So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when purchasing. Actual water in tank?

thanks again
Patti

nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
Patti,

I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

#1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
"REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
my Fluval 405 canister filter.

Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
water changes.

I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
submerged.

Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> releasing.
>
> I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
>
> Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> cycles and I get fish in there.......
>
> Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> power filter system?
>
> Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
>
> Patti
>






---------------------------------
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20843 From: hank voss Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my favorites also my
> first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was
just
> there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of them
> being females right or wrong
> ========================
Right!! Females will have red ventrals and a red adipose fin.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20844 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
If all your going to use that information by is the filter. Go with
the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.

I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a
30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that
I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather
be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.

So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.

Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you
bought should be great.

as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.
For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare
5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,
filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.

If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never
had a problem by this method.

If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to
figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time consuming.

Hope it helps.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.
I REALLY appreciate it.
>
> Here is another question.
>
> I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
for giving medicine etc.
>
> So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
purchasing. Actual water in tank?
>
> thanks again
> Patti
>
> nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
> Patti,
>
> I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
>
> The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
>
> #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
> filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
>
> I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
> and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
> put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
> forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
> particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
> my Fluval 405 canister filter.
>
> Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
> each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
> my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
> and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
> water changes.
>
> I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
> no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
> powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
> accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
> or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> submerged.
>
> Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> >
> > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > releasing.
> >
> > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> >
> > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> >
> > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> > power filter system?
> >
> > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
> >
> > Patti
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20845 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
i m so stupid i don t know why i didn t think of that using water
from my other tank almost completely eliminating the cycle process i
feel like such an idiot well i m gonna do a water change in my 55
gallon tank of about 10 gallons and use that 10 gallons in my 29
gallon tank that water is still good in my 55 gallon tank too so i
should have no problems
thanks for the idea
but no thanks for makin me feel stupid lol j/k


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Been using alot of river gravel (pea size) in some of the tanks
that I'm switching over to more substrate spawners, it is interesting
that you are having a problem with it being cloudy. Course its been a
while since I've had to start over with the whole cycling process,
always cheat with water and such from other tanks around here.
>
> Whenever I do the vinegar test on rocks of any size I boil them
for at least 5 minutes afterwards just to be a safe killing any extra
things/bacteria and such that may still be attached then let cool
over night. Personally would do another water change but this is JMO
>
> Shannon
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this
is the first 1
> i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
this h
> appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it
down
> for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
> good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer
for
> it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
the
> rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
wash
> them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water
i
> also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the
best
> idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
gallon
> tank
> should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
couldn
> t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20846 From: Patti M. Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Thanks again Wendy........ it is tough reading and trying to understand it all........

I appreciate all you have explained!

Patti M

nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
If all your going to use that information by is the filter. Go with
the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.

I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a
30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that
I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather
be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.

So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.

Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you
bought should be great.

as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.
For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare
5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,
filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.

If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never
had a problem by this method.

If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to
figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time consuming.

Hope it helps.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.
I REALLY appreciate it.
>
> Here is another question.
>
> I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
for giving medicine etc.
>
> So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
purchasing. Actual water in tank?
>
> thanks again
> Patti
>
> nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
> Patti,
>
> I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
>
> The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
>
> #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
> filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
>
> I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
> and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
> put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
> forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
> particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
> my Fluval 405 canister filter.
>
> Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
> each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
> my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
> and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
> water changes.
>
> I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
> no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
> powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
> accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
> or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> submerged.
>
> Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> >
> > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > releasing.
> >
> > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> >
> > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> >
> > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> > power filter system?
> >
> > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
> >
> > Patti
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20847 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
thanks
maybe i should get some and see if they will breed
who knows


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@> wrote:
> >
> > and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my favorites also my
> > first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was
> just
> > there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of
them
> > being females right or wrong
> > ========================
> Right!! Females will have red ventrals and a red adipose fin.
> Hank
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20848 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
about the filters just one thing with the hang on filters i have
always been told that whatever your tank size is get as close to
doubling filter as you can get or as big of 1 as you can for instance
i have a 55 gallon tank and use and emperor 400 on it for freshwater
which is rated for 80 gallon tanks i believe while that isn t quite
double it is a a big step up of 25 gallons and i have no problems
with the water being dirty and water quality stays good for a longer
time so less water changes needed
another example i have this 29 gallon tank i am running a penguin 170
hang on filter the new updated penguin is model 200 now which i think
is good for tanks up to 50 gallons or they claim anyways and while
that is still not double it is also a big step up
but i think you got the idea
if you have a 40 gallon tank or larger i would get a penguin 350 or
emperor 400 or a filter comparable to that i am not familiar with the
whisper filter models or the aquaclear models
i just have always been told the penguin and emperor filter hang on
type are the best so that is what i stick with and i once brought a
whisper filter and it was so loud i brought it back to the store the
next day
but i agree with the more filtration the better i would just get the
next size up or even next 2 sizes from the 1 that is recommended for
the tank

and u don t have to tank my word for which filter i use it is just my
opinion everyone has there own opinions on filters i just prefer the
penguins and emperor filters and just opinions of the LFS around me
tell me that they are the best ones
but at the same time you could go to 10 different stores and each 1
will tell u 10 different filters to use
hope that helps out some



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...>
wrote:
>
> If all your going to use that information by is the filter. Go with
> the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
> tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.
>
> I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on
a
> 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz
that
> I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
> used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
> didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would
rather
> be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.
>
> So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
> get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.
>
> Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
> frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
> toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size
you
> bought should be great.
>
> as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole
tank.
> For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a
bare
> 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with
decor,
> filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
> absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
> stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
> that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
> for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.
>
> If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
> coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have
never
> had a problem by this method.
>
> If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have
to
> figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
> don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time
consuming.
>
> Hope it helps.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that
response.
> I REALLY appreciate it.
> >
> > Here is another question.
> >
> > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
> your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
> for giving medicine etc.
> >
> > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
> that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
> purchasing. Actual water in tank?
> >
> > thanks again
> > Patti
> >
> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:
> > Patti,
> >
> > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
> >
> > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
> >
> > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase
the
> > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
> >
> > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the
powerhead),
> > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't
want to
> > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head,
and
> > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces
fine
> > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be
filtered by
> > my Fluval 405 canister filter.
> >
> > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I
have
> > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste
from
> > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the
filtering
> > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with
my
> > water changes.
> >
> > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate
with
> > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add
a
> > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall
to
> > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak
knife,
> > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> > submerged.
> >
> > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
> >
> > Wendy :-)
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> > >
> > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a
whisper
> > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter
system
> > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something
here and
> > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > > releasing.
> > >
> > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to
keep
> > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> > >
> > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the
under
> > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard,
the
> > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION
to a
> > > power filter system?
> > >
> > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with
etc.
> > >
> > > Patti
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
> flight and hotel bargains.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20849 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
I would say that they dyed the fish for valentines day.

----- Original Message ----
From: steve <steve01@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:11:01 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] was at a petco yesterday













and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my favorites also my

first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was just

there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of them

being females right or wrong














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____________________________________________________________________________________
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20850 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Your very welcome Patti!

I have a good example pic for you here

http://tinyurl.com/2xqjru

This is my 90G tank with the UGF filtration I described in my setup.
It took this around last October, about one month after I set it up.
The fish are bigger, and the decor has changed a lot, but the setup is
still the same.

On the left, you can see the penguin reverse flow powerhead, then the
two uplift tubes with airstones, then the aquaclear powerhead on the
right. I also have a lot of bubbles under the gravel from a bubble
wand. (My fish LOVE to play in the bubbles... so I keep it going.)

Send us a pic of your tank soon!

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks again Wendy........ it is tough reading and trying to
understand it all........
>
> I appreciate all you have explained!
>
> Patti M
>
> nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
> If all your going to use that information by is the
filter. Go with
> the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
> tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.
>
> I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a
> 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that
> I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
> used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
> didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather
> be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.
>
> So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
> get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.
>
> Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
> frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
> toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you
> bought should be great.
>
> as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.
> For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare
> 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,
> filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
> absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
> stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
> that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
> for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.
>
> If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
> coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never
> had a problem by this method.
>
> If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to
> figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
> don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time consuming.
>
> Hope it helps.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.
> I REALLY appreciate it.
> >
> > Here is another question.
> >
> > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
> your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
> for giving medicine etc.
> >
> > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
> that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
> purchasing. Actual water in tank?
> >
> > thanks again
> > Patti
> >
> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:
> > Patti,
> >
> > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
> >
> > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
> >
> > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
> > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
> >
> > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
> > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
> > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
> > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
> > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
> > my Fluval 405 canister filter.
> >
> > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
> > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
> > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
> > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
> > water changes.
> >
> > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
> > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
> > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
> > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
> > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> > submerged.
> >
> > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
> >
> > Wendy :-)
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> > >
> > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a
whisper
> > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here
and
> > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > > releasing.
> > >
> > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> > >
> > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION
to a
> > > power filter system?
> > >
> > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
> > >
> > > Patti
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
> flight and hotel bargains.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20851 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
What kind of fish do you have? Iodine is sold at the LFS in liquid form. Its for invertebrates. You might want to add some Trace elements and calcium to the tank to help when it molts also.

----- Original Message ----
From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:08:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting













No - I've never heard of that. Iodine in what form? Do pet stores have

it specifically for this purpose? She molted about two months ago,

ate most of the old shell, and I haven't seen any problem until

yesterday. (She's over a year old)



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...> wrote:

>

> Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?

>

> ----- Original Message ----

> From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@.. .>

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM

> Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very

edge, is raggedy

>

> looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal

>

> otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and

>

> how to treat it?

>

> Thanks.

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20852 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
YVW!! Around here with all the tanks that are running its extremely easy to kick start a tank (always water changes and nobody ever complains about bonus water changes LOL) not counting have extra filters running in tanks for those times.

Since the way I'm understanding this your doing a fishless cycle you could even do a little bigger change on your 55g, one of the reasons I like the big tanks can all but fill a new/empty tank 10-29g with a water change.

Shannon
steve <steve01@...> wrote:
i m so stupid i don t know why i didn t think of that using water
from my other tank almost completely eliminating the cycle process i
feel like such an idiot well i m gonna do a water change in my 55
gallon tank of about 10 gallons and use that 10 gallons in my 29
gallon tank that water is still good in my 55 gallon tank too so i
should have no problems
thanks for the idea
but no thanks for makin me feel stupid lol j/k

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Been using alot of river gravel (pea size) in some of the tanks
that I'm switching over to more substrate spawners, it is interesting
that you are having a problem with it being cloudy. Course its been a
while since I've had to start over with the whole cycling process,
always cheat with water and such from other tanks around here.
>
> Whenever I do the vinegar test on rocks of any size I boil them
for at least 5 minutes afterwards just to be a safe killing any extra
things/bacteria and such that may still be attached then let cool
over night. Personally would do another water change but this is JMO
>
> Shannon
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this
is the first 1
> i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
this h
> appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it
down
> for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
> good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer
for
> it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
the
> rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
wash
> them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water
i
> also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the
best
> idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
gallon
> tank
> should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
couldn
> t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20853 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Excellent advise!

The aqua clear brand. I do have experience with it. It's media is a
bit more versitile. You can pack it with whatever media you want,as
you prefer, similar to a canister filter, but with the ease of the
hang on variety.

To start with though, your right.... The penguin 200 model was my
FIRST biowheel, type of filter. Easy cartridges and stuff. And.. you
could add more media in the special containers they have for that
model (I could only find those on ebay though). I would recommend THAT
type/brand for a good starter filter.

Again.. excellent advise on the bigger filters!

(You can never have too much!)

Wendy :-)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> about the filters just one thing with the hang on filters i have
> always been told that whatever your tank size is get as close to
> doubling filter as you can get or as big of 1 as you can for instance
> i have a 55 gallon tank and use and emperor 400 on it for freshwater
> which is rated for 80 gallon tanks i believe while that isn t quite
> double it is a a big step up of 25 gallons and i have no problems
> with the water being dirty and water quality stays good for a longer
> time so less water changes needed
> another example i have this 29 gallon tank i am running a penguin 170
> hang on filter the new updated penguin is model 200 now which i think
> is good for tanks up to 50 gallons or they claim anyways and while
> that is still not double it is also a big step up
> but i think you got the idea
> if you have a 40 gallon tank or larger i would get a penguin 350 or
> emperor 400 or a filter comparable to that i am not familiar with the
> whisper filter models or the aquaclear models
> i just have always been told the penguin and emperor filter hang on
> type are the best so that is what i stick with and i once brought a
> whisper filter and it was so loud i brought it back to the store the
> next day
> but i agree with the more filtration the better i would just get the
> next size up or even next 2 sizes from the 1 that is recommended for
> the tank
>
> and u don t have to tank my word for which filter i use it is just my
> opinion everyone has there own opinions on filters i just prefer the
> penguins and emperor filters and just opinions of the LFS around me
> tell me that they are the best ones
> but at the same time you could go to 10 different stores and each 1
> will tell u 10 different filters to use
> hope that helps out some
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@>
> wrote:
> >
> > If all your going to use that information by is the filter. Go with
> > the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
> > tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.
> >
> > I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on
> a
> > 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz
> that
> > I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
> > used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
> > didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would
> rather
> > be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.
> >
> > So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
> > get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.
> >
> > Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
> > frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
> > toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size
> you
> > bought should be great.
> >
> > as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole
> tank.
> > For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a
> bare
> > 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with
> decor,
> > filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
> > absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
> > stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
> > that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
> > for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.
> >
> > If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
> > coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have
> never
> > had a problem by this method.
> >
> > If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have
> to
> > figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
> > don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time
> consuming.
> >
> > Hope it helps.
> >
> > Wendy :-)
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that
> response.
> > I REALLY appreciate it.
> > >
> > > Here is another question.
> > >
> > > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
> > your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
> > for giving medicine etc.
> > >
> > > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
> > that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
> > purchasing. Actual water in tank?
> > >
> > > thanks again
> > > Patti
> > >
> > > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:
> > > Patti,
> > >
> > > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> > > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
> > >
> > > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
> > >
> > > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> > > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> > > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase
> the
> > > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> > > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> > > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
> > >
> > > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> > > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the
> powerhead),
> > > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't
> want to
> > > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> > > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> > > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head,
> and
> > > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces
> fine
> > > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be
> filtered by
> > > my Fluval 405 canister filter.
> > >
> > > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I
> have
> > > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste
> from
> > > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the
> filtering
> > > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> > > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with
> my
> > > water changes.
> > >
> > > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> > > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate
> with
> > > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add
> a
> > > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall
> to
> > > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak
> knife,
> > > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> > > submerged.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> > > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
> > >
> > > Wendy :-)
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> > > >
> > > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a
> whisper
> > > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter
> system
> > > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something
> here and
> > > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > > > releasing.
> > > >
> > > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to
> keep
> > > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> > > >
> > > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the
> under
> > > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > > > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> > > >
> > > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard,
> the
> > > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION
> to a
> > > > power filter system?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with
> etc.
> > > >
> > > > Patti
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> > > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
> > flight and hotel bargains.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20854 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
not doing a fishless cycle i have 1 silver dollar in it right now he
seemed like he was being picked on by my tetras so i put him in the
29 gallon tank to cycle it also had a black skirt tetra in there that
was also getting picked on but he died so there is just the silver
dollar now
thanks again

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> YVW!! Around here with all the tanks that are running its extremely
easy to kick start a tank (always water changes and nobody ever
complains about bonus water changes LOL) not counting have extra
filters running in tanks for those times.
>
> Since the way I'm understanding this your doing a fishless cycle
you could even do a little bigger change on your 55g, one of the
reasons I like the big tanks can all but fill a new/empty tank 10-29g
with a water change.
>
> Shannon
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> i m so stupid i don t know why i didn t think of that
using water
> from my other tank almost completely eliminating the cycle process
i
> feel like such an idiot well i m gonna do a water change in my 55
> gallon tank of about 10 gallons and use that 10 gallons in my 29
> gallon tank that water is still good in my 55 gallon tank too so i
> should have no problems
> thanks for the idea
> but no thanks for makin me feel stupid lol j/k
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Been using alot of river gravel (pea size) in some of the tanks
> that I'm switching over to more substrate spawners, it is
interesting
> that you are having a problem with it being cloudy. Course its been
a
> while since I've had to start over with the whole cycling process,
> always cheat with water and such from other tanks around here.
> >
> > Whenever I do the vinegar test on rocks of any size I boil them
> for at least 5 minutes afterwards just to be a safe killing any
extra
> things/bacteria and such that may still be attached then let cool
> over night. Personally would do another water change but this is JMO
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> > steve <steve01@> wrote:
> > have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this
> is the first 1
> > i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
> this h
> > appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut
it
> down
> > for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank
very
> > good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil
longer
> for
> > it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
> the
> > rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
> wash
> > them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with
water
> i
> > also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t
the
> best
> > idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> > cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
> gallon
> > tank
> > should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
> couldn
> > t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> > (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20855 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
For filters I always use one size bigger.

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:54:50 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with another question!













If all your going to use that information by is the filter. Go with

the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon

tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.



I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a

30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that

I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I

used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just

didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather

be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.



So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,

get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.



Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,

frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of

toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you

bought should be great.



as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.

For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare

5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,

filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be

absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,

stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If

that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings

for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.



If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress

coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never

had a problem by this method.



If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to

figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..

don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time consuming.



Hope it helps.



Wendy :-)



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@. ..> wrote:

>

> Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.

I REALLY appreciate it.

>

> Here is another question.

>

> I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water

your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like

for giving medicine etc.

>

> So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is

that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when

purchasing. Actual water in tank?

>

> thanks again

> Patti

>

> nrstype2004 <nursetype@. ..> wrote:

> Patti,

>

> I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The

> larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

>

> The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

>

> #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and

> excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that

> are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the

> filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each

> side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases

> the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

>

> I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows

> through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),

> and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to

> put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a

> "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the

> aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and

> forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine

> particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by

> my Fluval 405 canister filter.

>

> Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have

> each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from

> my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering

> and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel

> bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my

> water changes.

>

> I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power

> filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with

> no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a

> powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to

> accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,

> or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be

> submerged.

>

> Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big

> tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

>

> Wendy :-)

>

> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

> >

> > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper

> > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system

> > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and

> > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly

> > releasing.

> >

> > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep

> > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

> >

> > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under

> > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank

> > cycles and I get fish in there.......

> >

> > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the

> > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a

> > power filter system?

> >

> > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

> >

> > Patti

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

> ------------ --------- --------- ---

> Finding fabulous fares is fun.

> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find

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>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20856 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
never thought of that but i don t think it was dye usually when i see
a fish that had dye injected in it it seems to be more pastel in
color but these were darker red fins so i don t think it was dye but
i could ask them if they know but i doubt people at petco would know

lol


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> I would say that they dyed the fish for valentines day.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: steve <steve01@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:11:01 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] was at a petco yesterday
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my
favorites also my
>
> first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was
just
>
> there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of
them
>
> being females right or wrong
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20857 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
You can do that. If you know how many gallons of water is actually in the tank use it. Don't forget to add water for whats in your filter if it is big. Also it is better to under medicate than to over medicate.

----- Original Message ----
From: Patti M. <msrnt2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: spgwg@...; Sabrina Penelope Gilbreath <Sabrina@...>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:48:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with another question!













Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response. I REALLY appreciate it.



Here is another question.



I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like for giving medicine etc.



So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when purchasing. Actual water in tank?



thanks again

Patti



nrstype2004 <nursetype@wowway. com> wrote:

Patti,



I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The

larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.



The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.



#1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and

excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that

are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the

filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each

side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases

the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.



I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows

through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),

and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to

put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a

"REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the

aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and

forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine

particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by

my Fluval 405 canister filter.



Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have

each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from

my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering

and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel

bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my

water changes.



I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power

filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with

no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a

powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to

accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,

or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be

submerged.



Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big

tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.



Wendy :-)



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@. ..> wrote:

>

> Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

>

> I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper

> power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system

> in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and

> there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly

> releasing.

>

> I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep

> an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

>

> Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under

> gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank

> cycles and I get fish in there.......

>

> Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the

> pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a

> power filter system?

>

> Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

>

> Patti

>



------------ --------- --------- ---

Finding fabulous fares is fun.

Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20858 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Hi nice tank are all those plants real? You going to get more live plants?

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:37:07 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with another question!













Your very welcome Patti!



I have a good example pic for you here



http://tinyurl. com/2xqjru



This is my 90G tank with the UGF filtration I described in my setup.

It took this around last October, about one month after I set it up.

The fish are bigger, and the decor has changed a lot, but the setup is

still the same.



On the left, you can see the penguin reverse flow powerhead, then the

two uplift tubes with airstones, then the aquaclear powerhead on the

right. I also have a lot of bubbles under the gravel from a bubble

wand. (My fish LOVE to play in the bubbles... so I keep it going.)



Send us a pic of your tank soon!



Wendy :-)



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@. ..> wrote:

>

> Thanks again Wendy....... . it is tough reading and trying to

understand it all........

>

> I appreciate all you have explained!

>

> Patti M

>

> nrstype2004 <nursetype@. ..> wrote:

> If all your going to use that information by is the

filter. Go with

> the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon

> tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.

>

> I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a

> 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that

> I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I

> used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just

> didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather

> be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.

>

> So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,

> get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.

>

> Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,

> frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of

> toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you

> bought should be great.

>

> as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.

> For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare

> 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,

> filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be

> absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,

> stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If

> that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings

> for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.

>

> If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress

> coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never

> had a problem by this method.

>

> If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to

> figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..

> don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time consuming.

>

> Hope it helps.

>

> Wendy :-)

>

> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:

> >

> > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.

> I REALLY appreciate it.

> >

> > Here is another question.

> >

> > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water

> your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like

> for giving medicine etc.

> >

> > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is

> that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when

> purchasing. Actual water in tank?

> >

> > thanks again

> > Patti

> >

> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:

> > Patti,

> >

> > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The

> > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

> >

> > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

> >

> > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and

> > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that

> > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the

> > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each

> > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases

> > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

> >

> > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows

> > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),

> > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to

> > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a

> > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the

> > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and

> > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine

> > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by

> > my Fluval 405 canister filter.

> >

> > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have

> > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from

> > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering

> > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel

> > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my

> > water changes.

> >

> > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power

> > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with

> > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a

> > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to

> > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,

> > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be

> > submerged.

> >

> > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big

> > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

> >

> > Wendy :-)

> >

> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:

> > >

> > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

> > >

> > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a

whisper

> > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system

> > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here

and

> > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly

> > > releasing.

> > >

> > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep

> > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

> > >

> > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under

> > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank

> > > cycles and I get fish in there.......

> > >

> > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the

> > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION

to a

> > > power filter system?

> > >

> > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

> > >

> > > Patti

> > >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> >

> > ------------ --------- --------- ---

> > Finding fabulous fares is fun.

> > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find

> flight and hotel bargains.

> >

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

> ------------ --------- --------- ---

> Get your own web address.

> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20859 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
I get my bettas from the LPS but I check with them to see when their shipment is coming in and get them fresh. Mine buys local and I like them when they haven't set for so long. The ones from WalMart sit for heaven only knows how long......I have beautiful colors and they are very active and inquisitive whenever someone passes by the tank. They always come to the side to see what/who is going by........Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: Sacred Wind Arabians <kimvoo2003@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:49:37 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] betta questions

I was thinking about geting some bettas,
I know severel people that have had bettas and they all look pretty droopy coming from walmart or the LFS. I have been on aquabid and seen the beautifull pics of some for sale there. If I were to buy those fish that look to be healthy and of quality will they be more active and nice looking or is a betta a betta? Also have been reading up and severel places say you can keep femals together does anyone have experience with this? Also I have a 29 gal tank with just 3 snails in it, can I put bettas with snails? Also how many females could I put in my 29 gal?
Thanks Kimberly

Kimberly
MyDream Shepherds
German and Panda shepherds of quality
http://www.breedero o.com/members/ MyDreamsheps

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20860 From: Sarah Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
>>Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but it
>was well before this time that the species' size began
>deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
>dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
>as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru to
>keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
>originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming in
>from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion and
>I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
>notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll soon
>see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).





Normally I just lurk on here, but since I've seen this mentioned twice now,
I have to ask about it. What was the "Angel Plague" that happened during the
eighties? I'm afraid that was well before my time (I was born in '85 and
only started keeping fish when I was fourteen.) and I've never had proper
setup to even think about keeping angels, so I don't know very much about
them, other than the basics that I've read about here and there.



-Sarah





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20861 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
I'm pro over filtering, course most the residents here are cichlids. On my 75g have a Tetratech 500 with the internal filter (love this filter keeps the tank so evenly heated) and also a Aquaclear 30-60 between the 2 filters they keep the tank crystal clear considering the pigs that reside LOL Some of the tanks are actually at triple the gallonage like some of the growout tanks, then have a few others where discus and angels reside that the filtering is less only due to the daily water changes.

UGF still have a few tanks with them, but again they are ones that discus, angels and some misc dwarf cichlids live so they get lots of water changes with a extreme gravel vaccuum at least once a week usually twice a week.

Have a Magnum H.O.T.350 on the goldy tank which keeps up with them better than other filteration systems I've used over the years. Now though with more and more spawning, births etc... have oodles more sponge filters running.

After sometime you'll find what you like best as for filteration, we all have personal favorites or needs.__

Shannon



---------------------------------
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Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20862 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them

The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
disappointed.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20863 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: was at a petco yesterday
Your right about petco they just hire people to fill in space.


----- Original Message ----
From: steve <steve01@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:56:09 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: was at a petco yesterday













never thought of that but i don t think it was dye usually when i see

a fish that had dye injected in it it seems to be more pastel in

color but these were darker red fins so i don t think it was dye but

i could ask them if they know but i doubt people at petco would know



lol



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...>

wrote:

>

> I would say that they dyed the fish for valentines day.

>

> ----- Original Message ----

> From: steve <steve01@... >

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:11:01 AM

> Subject: [AquaticLife] was at a petco yesterday

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> and was looking at some black phantom tetras (my

favorites also my

>

> first fish) lol some of them had there fins tinted red and it was

just

>

> there fins nowhere else on the body i believe this is a sign of

them

>

> being females right or wrong

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20864 From: Izabela Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
I am surprised that in a group of such friendly people I would hear someone
make such remarks. Funny, this country has become so tolerant of things
that aren't necessarily always good, often quite bad for society and
especially for our children, but then you make a remark about a family being
crazy because "they don't believe in sending their kids to school". Hmm, if
that makes someone crazy then there are millions of crazy people in this
world, seeing how homeschooling has become so very popular around the world,
and especially in US. Coincidentally we just made a decision to homeschool
our two 4 year old girls, since every school I have toured did not meet my
standrads, academically or morally. I myself went to a public school and
can definetely understand why people choose not to send their kids there.
Guess I'm just a crazy person like them though...

Izabela


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20865 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Joeseph,

Unfortunately no. I did take some old plastic plants, and some
aquarium sealant and rocks & pebbles, to make my own "weighted" decor.

The fish I have in there now, One 12" red devil cichlid, three 12 inch
oscars, and 2 plecos that are over a foot in length, will ALL uproot
any real plants I could put with them. They even toss the fake plants
around, so I have attached them to a rock or petrified wood base, so
they can't lift them.

I'm into making my own "fake" decor. I can never find what I want.

Here is a pic of what it looked like yesterday (I change it all the
time to mess with the red devil's head. Makes him mad.)

http://tinyurl.com/yvmykt

And here is what I do to the plants and rocks up close..

http://tinyurl.com/27vdsn

Now.. HERE.. is One of my planted tanks with the penguin biowheel and
the added Co2 thing. I keep it in the family room. The fish like my
kids and dogs running around, believe it or not.

http://tinyurl.com/yolepj
http://tinyurl.com/2fvrvu
http://tinyurl.com/2ke6q4

Wen



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi nice tank are all those plants real? You going to get more live
plants?
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:37:07 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with another question!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Your very welcome Patti!
>
>
>
> I have a good example pic for you here
>
>
>
> http://tinyurl. com/2xqjru
>
>
>
> This is my 90G tank with the UGF filtration I described in my setup.
>
> It took this around last October, about one month after I set it up.
>
> The fish are bigger, and the decor has changed a lot, but the setup is
>
> still the same.
>
>
>
> On the left, you can see the penguin reverse flow powerhead, then the
>
> two uplift tubes with airstones, then the aquaclear powerhead on the
>
> right. I also have a lot of bubbles under the gravel from a bubble
>
> wand. (My fish LOVE to play in the bubbles... so I keep it going.)
>
>
>
> Send us a pic of your tank soon!
>
>
>
> Wendy :-)
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@ ..> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Thanks again Wendy....... . it is tough reading and trying to
>
> understand it all........
>
> >
>
> > I appreciate all you have explained!
>
> >
>
> > Patti M
>
> >
>
> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@ ..> wrote:
>
> > If all your going to use that information by is the
>
> filter. Go with
>
> > the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon
>
> > tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.
>
> >
>
> > I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a
>
> > 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that
>
> > I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I
>
> > used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just
>
> > didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather
>
> > be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.
>
> >
>
> > So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,
>
> > get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.
>
> >
>
> > Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,
>
> > frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of
>
> > toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you
>
> > bought should be great.
>
> >
>
> > as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.
>
> > For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare
>
> > 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,
>
> > filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be
>
> > absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,
>
> > stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If
>
> > that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings
>
> > for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.
>
> >
>
> > If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress
>
> > coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never
>
> > had a problem by this method.
>
> >
>
> > If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to
>
> > figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..
>
> > don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time
consuming.
>
> >
>
> > Hope it helps.
>
> >
>
> > Wendy :-)
>
> >
>
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.
>
> > I REALLY appreciate it.
>
> > >
>
> > > Here is another question.
>
> > >
>
> > > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water
>
> > your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
>
> > for giving medicine etc.
>
> > >
>
> > > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
>
> > that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
>
> > purchasing. Actual water in tank?
>
> > >
>
> > > thanks again
>
> > > Patti
>
> > >
>
> > > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:
>
> > > Patti,
>
> > >
>
> > > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
>
> > > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
>
> > >
>
> > > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
>
> > >
>
> > > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
>
> > > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
>
> > > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
>
> > > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
>
> > > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
>
> > > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
>
> > >
>
> > > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
>
> > > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
>
> > > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't
want to
>
> > > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
>
> > > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
>
> > > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
>
> > > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
>
> > > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be
filtered by
>
> > > my Fluval 405 canister filter.
>
> > >
>
> > > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
>
> > > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
>
> > > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the
filtering
>
> > > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
>
> > > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
>
> > > water changes.
>
> > >
>
> > > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
>
> > > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate
with
>
> > > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
>
> > > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
>
> > > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak
knife,
>
> > > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
>
> > > submerged.
>
> > >
>
> > > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
>
> > > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
>
> > >
>
> > > Wendy :-)
>
> > >
>
> > > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
>
> > > >
>
> > > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
>
> > > >
>
> > > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a
>
> whisper
>
> > > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
>
> > > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here
>
> and
>
> > > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
>
> > > > releasing.
>
> > > >
>
> > > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to
keep
>
> > > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
>
> > > >
>
> > > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
>
> > > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
>
> > > > cycles and I get fish in there.......
>
> > > >
>
> > > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have
heard, the
>
> > > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION
>
> to a
>
> > > > power filter system?
>
> > > >
>
> > > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
>
> > > >
>
> > > > Patti
>
> > > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > ------------ --------- --------- ---
>
> > > Finding fabulous fares is fun.
>
> > > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
>
> > flight and hotel bargains.
>
> > >
>
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > ------------ --------- --------- ---
>
> > Get your own web address.
>
> > Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> >
>
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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____________________________________________________________________________________
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20866 From: Izabela Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
cloudy water is an indication of an ammonia spike or overfeeding :)

Izabela


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20867 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Females, in general, make a good community aquarium fish. If healthy
enough, are usually colorful and interesting to watch. But, just as
Cynthia stated, as long as they all have enough room, they should do
just fine.

I was in a situation where I wanted several female bettas. Could
never find any good ones, if I could find one at all. So .. Grew my
own! hehe

Got a nice healthy male, got a nice healthy female, let them grow up a
bit, (did not house them together), fed them Attison's betta Pro food,
and some dried blood worms to "condition" them for a few weeks.
Then.. tried to mate them! They had several eggs, and I had to remove
the female and treat her for wounds.. she died of fungal infection
later. The male died a few weeks after that. BUT.. the babies ALL
LIVED! Got tons of healthy females! Most of the fry were girls! All
are sooooo much nicer, bigger, healthier than anything you can buy at
the store. My few males I have were beautiful too. Kids liked the
whole thing.. was a good learning about life experience.

Anyhoo... I housed about 20 or so females together... did great. Of
course.. they were raised together. males.. I had to separate them
around 6 months old.

I just bought a couple of very young females at petsmart (need new
genes for the pool).. and have been conditioning them for the last
month.. they are almost ready to breed. I'm gonna breed them with a
nice doubletail... like the ones you see on aquabid. (I just can not
pay shipping for one of those, but they sure are nice!) I put them
together in a 2.5 gallon bare tank.. and they get along fine, with
only a tit for tat once in a while between them. Nothing violent, just
show off warning stuff.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20868 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: 1 more question
Or.. if it is a newer tank setup.. a bacterial bloom. Just depends.
New tanks will, after set up, go through a cloudy phase lasting 2 - 5
days... which just clears up on its own.

other than that... could be anything

Wen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Izabela" <IzabelaT@...> wrote:
>
> cloudy water is an indication of an ammonia spike or overfeeding :)
>
> Izabela
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20869 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: caught an alligator
You should probably contact your local fish and game office. You are trying to do the right thing by caring for it but if you get caught with it they of course may nail you for having an illegal "pet".
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: steve01@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 7:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] caught an alligator


in our neighborhood we have a family of very crazy people they sell
live bait for fishing and that sorta thing and they also have been
known to have alligators for pets and other (exotic pets) but when they
get to big they release them into the neighborhood these people r very
crazy as in they don t believe in sending there kids to school anyone
have some ideas on how to care for it or what to do with it, it is
about 2 feet long
the local zoo s won t take it

lol ok that was mostly just a joke about the alligator but the story
about the family wasn t actually there was 1 alligator caught before in
our town and it was believed to be owned by this family lol and this is
in the state of pennsylvania
oh yeah i live in a very small town of maybe 500 people located bout 30
minutes south of pittsburgh PA
it is funny how these small towns like this have these kinda crazy
people



________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20870 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator
Izabella,

Sometimes not sending to kids to school means they have no School at all. I was not home schooled but some of the people I went to college with were home schooled. They were all very good students. My Anthropology TA was excellent and I credit her with the A I received in that course.

As a teen they were some kids in my neighborhood that did not go to school and their folks did not care.

I took the comments of not sending kids to school to mean they had no school and were pretty free wheeling people that kind of did what they pleased.

Mike

Aquatic content: Just got a Procambrius Allendi (sp) blue crayfish a week ago and appreciate the recent cray talk. I will be going to the LFS and getting some Iodine and Kent liquid calcium. I was aware that they needed these items but did not know how it was introduced to the tank. I know I have to give my parrots Calcium either through a cuttle bone(cuttlefish), Mineral block, or liquid calcium. I had visions of myself using a cheese grater with a cuttlebone over my craytank : )



-----Original Message-----
From: IzabelaT@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 1:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator


I am surprised that in a group of such friendly people I would hear someone
make such remarks. Funny, this country has become so tolerant of things
that aren't necessarily always good, often quite bad for society and
especially for our children, but then you make a remark about a family being
crazy because "they don't believe in sending their kids to school". Hmm, if
that makes someone crazy then there are millions of crazy people in this
world, seeing how homeschooling has become so very popular around the world,
and especially in US. Coincidentally we just made a decision to homeschool
our two 4 year old girls, since every school I have toured did not meet my
standrads, academically or morally.Calendar
cribe
.

________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20871 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's Crayfish comme
Mike.. don't grate the cuttle bone over the tank...

The liquid calcium is much easier, and not as unsightly as cuttlebone
peices floating on the top, or sitting on the bottom. Cuttle bones
float, until they are just very waterlogged, takes several days to
weeks to get that way. You can use a cuttlebone, just mount it whole,
on a veggie clip, on the wall inside of the tank.. just let it stay
there.

Careful with the calcium... a little goes a long way. follow the
directions (it is for salt water), and replace it when you do some
water changes, about once a week.

WEndy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Izabella,
>
> Sometimes not sending to kids to school means they have no School at
all. I was not home schooled but some of the people I went to college
with were home schooled. They were all very good students. My
Anthropology TA was excellent and I credit her with the A I received
in that course.
>
> As a teen they were some kids in my neighborhood that did not go to
school and their folks did not care.
>
> I took the comments of not sending kids to school to mean they had
no school and were pretty free wheeling people that kind of did what
they pleased.
>
> Mike
>
> Aquatic content: Just got a Procambrius Allendi (sp) blue crayfish
a week ago and appreciate the recent cray talk. I will be going to
the LFS and getting some Iodine and Kent liquid calcium. I was aware
that they needed these items but did not know how it was introduced to
the tank. I know I have to give my parrots Calcium either through a
cuttle bone(cuttlefish), Mineral block, or liquid calcium. I had
visions of myself using a cheese grater with a cuttlebone over my
craytank : )
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: IzabelaT@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 1:08 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator
>
>
> I am surprised that in a group of such friendly people I would hear
someone
> make such remarks. Funny, this country has become so tolerant of things
> that aren't necessarily always good, often quite bad for society and
> especially for our children, but then you make a remark about a
family being
> crazy because "they don't believe in sending their kids to school".
Hmm, if
> that makes someone crazy then there are millions of crazy people in this
> world, seeing how homeschooling has become so very popular around
the world,
> and especially in US. Coincidentally we just made a decision to
homeschool
> our two 4 year old girls, since every school I have toured did not
meet my
> standrads, academically or morally.Calendar
> cribe
> .
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20872 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
i think you misunderstood not crazy for not sending kids to school i
have no problem with homeschooling kids infact probably better then
most other schools but when you can t read or can t count to 12 to
give someone a dozen worms that is crazy and there are other reasons
for them being crazy like letting an alligator lose in a town where
there have probably never been alligators before and it probably
would have no idea how to survive in this kinda climate or anything
but if you still have a problem with me calling them crazy for that
the i guess we just have to disagree


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Izabela" <IzabelaT@...> wrote:
>
> I am surprised that in a group of such friendly people I would hear
someone
> make such remarks. Funny, this country has become so tolerant of
things
> that aren't necessarily always good, often quite bad for society and
> especially for our children, but then you make a remark about a
family being
> crazy because "they don't believe in sending their kids to
school". Hmm, if
> that makes someone crazy then there are millions of crazy people
in this
> world, seeing how homeschooling has become so very popular around
the world,
> and especially in US. Coincidentally we just made a decision to
homeschool
> our two 4 year old girls, since every school I have toured did not
meet my
> standrads, academically or morally. I myself went to a public
school and
> can definetely understand why people choose not to send their kids
there.
> Guess I'm just a crazy person like them though...
>
> Izabela
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20873 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's Crayfish c
Thanks Wendy,
The grating cuttle bone over the tank was more of a joke, but thank you for the information on hanging it inside the tank. I did not think of hanging it in the tank, but it makes sense. I will buy the liquid calcium, less mess and easier to dose with. Thanks for making sure I don't make a mess of my tank :)

I would like to get a few more of these blue crays. As a teen we use to catch red crayfish in the creeks and ponds near our neighborhood. It would be nice to keep some as pets instead of dinner.
Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: nursetype@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 2:02 PM
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's Crayfish comment


Mike.. don't grate the cuttle bone over the tank...

The liquid calcium is much easier, and not as unsightly as cuttlebone
peices floating on the top, or sitting on the bottom. Cuttle bones
float, until they are just very waterlogged, takes several days to
weeks to get that way. You can use a cuttlebone, just mount it whole,
on a veggie clip, on the wall inside of the tank.. just let it stay
there.

Careful with the calcium... a little goes a long way. follow the
directions (it is for salt water), and replace it when you do some
water changes, about once a week.

WEndy :-)

>
.

________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20874 From: Kevin Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Diagnosis Help - Dark Grey spots-
My golden algae eater has some grey spots on it's back tail, and a
couple on the side of it's body. It's nothing I've ever seen on my
fish. is it simply a fungus? Is it something else? Anyone have any
ideas?
It doesn't appear to be raised at all-just discolored.
Thanks,
kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20875 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:~ Mike's Crayfish comment
Yeah.. I thought you were kinda joking around.. but thought i'd throw
my comment in anyhoo.. just in case.

I used to have a bunch of blue crays. even had babies once with them.

BE CAREFUL! The males are sooooooooooooo (I can't stress this
enough).. sooooooooooo territorial to each other. They will fight,
all the time, and kill & eat each other during a molt (they are very
vulnerable the first 24 - 48 hours after a molt, they are very very
soft and can be killed easily by a aggressive fish or another cray.
That is how I lost a few of them. (didn't know).. I had a 50 gallon
tank with several spots to hide in.. they know when one molted, and
attacked. So be careful not to house a few of them together! Or
yours may fall prey to each other like a few of mine did. Learn to
sex them (you can look it up on the net). And you may have some
babies... be careful.

Good luck.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Thanks Wendy,
> The grating cuttle bone over the tank was more of a joke, but thank
you for the information on hanging it inside the tank. I did not
think of hanging it in the tank, but it makes sense. I will buy the
liquid calcium, less mess and easier to dose with. Thanks for making
sure I don't make a mess of my tank :)
>
> I would like to get a few more of these blue crays. As a teen we
use to catch red crayfish in the creeks and ponds near our
neighborhood. It would be nice to keep some as pets instead of dinner.
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nursetype@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 2:02 PM
> Subject: OT Re: [AquaticLife] Re:caught an alligator ~ Mike's
Crayfish comment
>
>
> Mike.. don't grate the cuttle bone over the tank...
>
> The liquid calcium is much easier, and not as unsightly as cuttlebone
> peices floating on the top, or sitting on the bottom. Cuttle bones
> float, until they are just very waterlogged, takes several days to
> weeks to get that way. You can use a cuttlebone, just mount it whole,
> on a veggie clip, on the wall inside of the tank.. just let it stay
> there.
>
> Careful with the calcium... a little goes a long way. follow the
> directions (it is for salt water), and replace it when you do some
> water changes, about once a week.
>
> WEndy :-)
>
> >
> .
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and
security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from
across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20876 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
Wow thats even better like it.

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:05:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with another question!













Joeseph,



Unfortunately no. I did take some old plastic plants, and some

aquarium sealant and rocks & pebbles, to make my own "weighted" decor.



The fish I have in there now, One 12" red devil cichlid, three 12 inch

oscars, and 2 plecos that are over a foot in length, will ALL uproot

any real plants I could put with them. They even toss the fake plants

around, so I have attached them to a rock or petrified wood base, so

they can't lift them.



I'm into making my own "fake" decor. I can never find what I want.



Here is a pic of what it looked like yesterday (I change it all the

time to mess with the red devil's head. Makes him mad.)



http://tinyurl. com/yvmykt



And here is what I do to the plants and rocks up close..



http://tinyurl. com/27vdsn



Now.. HERE.. is One of my planted tanks with the penguin biowheel and

the added Co2 thing. I keep it in the family room. The fish like my

kids and dogs running around, believe it or not.



http://tinyurl. com/yolepj

http://tinyurl. com/2fvrvu

http://tinyurl. com/2ke6q4



Wen



--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...> wrote:

>

> Hi nice tank are all those plants real? You going to get more live

plants?

>

> ----- Original Message ----

> From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@. ..>

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:37:07 PM

> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with another question!

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

> Your very welcome Patti!

>

>

>

> I have a good example pic for you here

>

>

>

> http://tinyurl. com/2xqjru

>

>

>

> This is my 90G tank with the UGF filtration I described in my setup.

>

> It took this around last October, about one month after I set it up.

>

> The fish are bigger, and the decor has changed a lot, but the setup is

>

> still the same.

>

>

>

> On the left, you can see the penguin reverse flow powerhead, then the

>

> two uplift tubes with airstones, then the aquaclear powerhead on the

>

> right. I also have a lot of bubbles under the gravel from a bubble

>

> wand. (My fish LOVE to play in the bubbles... so I keep it going.)

>

>

>

> Send us a pic of your tank soon!

>

>

>

> Wendy :-)

>

>

>

> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@ ..> wrote:

>

> >

>

> > Thanks again Wendy....... . it is tough reading and trying to

>

> understand it all........

>

> >

>

> > I appreciate all you have explained!

>

> >

>

> > Patti M

>

> >

>

> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@ ..> wrote:

>

> > If all your going to use that information by is the

>

> filter. Go with

>

> > the size you bought the tank by. I mean.. if you bought a 90 gallon

>

> > tank, get a filter that is for at least, a 90 gallon or above.

>

> >

>

> > I have a filter (canister type), that was for a 125 gallon tank, on a

>

> > 30 gallon long, when my external hang on filter went on the fritz that

>

> > I had for it. The only extra filter I had was that canister.. so I

>

> > used it for 6 months on that smaller tank. Never hurt a thing, just

>

> > didn't need to clean the filter as much. Like I said.. I would rather

>

> > be a little OVER powered on the filtration, than under.

>

> >

>

> > So.. in short. If you buy a "whatever size" advertised gallon tank,

>

> > get a filter that is AT LEAST for that size and/or above.

>

> >

>

> > Even if you don't have plants, the type of fish, amount you feed,

>

> > frequency of water changes and gravel vacs etc effect the volume of

>

> > toxins in the water. The UGF and a filter rated for the tank size you

>

> > bought should be great.

>

> >

>

> > as for meds.. it is better to treat a SINGLE fish, than a whole tank.

>

> > For a couple reasons. It is easier to figure out a dosage for a bare

>

> > 5 or 10 gallon hospital tank, than a whole 55 gallon tank with decor,

>

> > filtration, etc. Some meds may kill off beneficial bacteria, be

>

> > absorbed by the carbon or other media, thus rendering it useless,

>

> > stain the sealant on a tank and other silicone fixtures/decor. If

>

> > that is what your asking. Have a small "hospital tank" in the wings

>

> > for that (treating sick fish with meds), with just a sponge filter.

>

> >

>

> > If your asking about additives (aquarium salt, stress zyme, stress

>

> > coat etc... ) again.. go by what 'STATED' tank size is. I have never

>

> > had a problem by this method.

>

> >

>

> > If you get too picky about "actual volume of water" then you'd have to

>

> > figure out volume of gravel, amount of volume the decor takes up..

>

> > don't even get that picky. That is way too difficult and time

consuming.

>

> >

>

> > Hope it helps.

>

> >

>

> > Wendy :-)

>

> >

>

> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:

>

> > >

>

> > > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response.

>

> > I REALLY appreciate it.

>

> > >

>

> > > Here is another question.

>

> > >

>

> > > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water

>

> > your tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like

>

> > for giving medicine etc.

>

> > >

>

> > > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is

>

> > that the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when

>

> > purchasing. Actual water in tank?

>

> > >

>

> > > thanks again

>

> > > Patti

>

> > >

>

> > > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:

>

> > > Patti,

>

> > >

>

> > > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The

>

> > > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

>

> > >

>

> > > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

>

> > >

>

> > > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and

>

> > > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that

>

> > > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the

>

> > > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each

>

> > > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases

>

> > > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

>

> > >

>

> > > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows

>

> > > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),

>

> > > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't

want to

>

> > > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a

>

> > > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the

>

> > > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and

>

> > > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine

>

> > > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be

filtered by

>

> > > my Fluval 405 canister filter.

>

> > >

>

> > > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have

>

> > > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from

>

> > > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the

filtering

>

> > > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel

>

> > > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my

>

> > > water changes.

>

> > >

>

> > > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power

>

> > > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate

with

>

> > > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a

>

> > > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to

>

> > > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak

knife,

>

> > > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be

>

> > > submerged.

>

> > >

>

> > > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big

>

> > > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

>

> > >

>

> > > Wendy :-)

>

> > >

>

> > > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:

>

> > > >

>

> > > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

>

> > > >

>

> > > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a

>

> whisper

>

> > > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system

>

> > > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here

>

> and

>

> > > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly

>

> > > > releasing.

>

> > > >

>

> > > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to

keep

>

> > > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

>

> > > >

>

> > > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under

>

> > > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank

>

> > > > cycles and I get fish in there.......

>

> > > >

>

> > > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have

heard, the

>

> > > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION

>

> to a

>

> > > > power filter system?

>

> > > >

>

> > > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

>

> > > >

>

> > > > Patti

>

> > > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > >

>

> > > ------------ --------- --------- ---

>

> > > Finding fabulous fares is fun.

>

> > > Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find

>

> > flight and hotel bargains.

>

> > >

>

> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> > >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> >

>

> > ------------ --------- --------- ---

>

> > Get your own web address.

>

> > Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

>

> >

>

> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

> >

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20877 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new 29 gal
tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it :) I
bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've learned that
males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much about
females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
looking, happy, healthy community tank.

Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me, I'd love
to read!

Thanks!

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions


Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them

The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
disappointed.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20878 From: Wendie Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
It depends on what other fish will be in the community tank. I currently have females in with
Rosy Loaches and a L100 pleco. I have a male in a tank with 1 unknown fish - some sort of
loach no one can ID, two L129 plecos, and 11 green neons. From time to time he'll chase
the loach and the neons but can't catch them. I have another male in with regular and black
kuhli loaches.

Wendie




----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Camp
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions


Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new 29 gal
tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it :) I
bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've learned that
males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much about
females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
looking, happy, healthy community tank.

Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me, I'd love
to read!

Thanks!

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them

The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
disappointed.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20879 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
There are no other critters in her tank. It's a ten-gallon, with a
large ceramic "bottle" which she hides in and a piece of driftwood.
I'm probably over-feeding. I drop a few shrimp pellets in each day and
try to get them to her as she's moving around so they don't dirty the
tank. Once a week I add a freeze-dried shrimp. I've tried various
vegetables (lettuce, peas, etc.) and she doesn't go for them. I know
over-feeding is not good; I try not to, but I see her reaching up to
the water surface and figure she's hungry. I'm doing water changes
more frequently now (about once every two weeks). I tested for
nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia and they were okay.
I don't understand why the molt would be a problem when it's been at
least two months since her last molt.(What is "LFS"?) I was in Petco
this afternoon and didn't see iodine. I got melafix, which I've seen
mentioned on other boards. How does one add trace elements and calcium
to the tank? For the time being, I'm going to do a water change
tomorrow and add the melafix.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of fish do you have? Iodine is sold at the LFS in liquid
form. Its for invertebrates. You might want to add some Trace elements
and calcium to the tank to help when it molts also.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:08:43 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No - I've never heard of that. Iodine in what form? Do
pet stores have
>
> it specifically for this purpose? She molted about two months ago,
>
> ate most of the old shell, and I haven't seen any problem until
>
> yesterday. (She's over a year old)
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...>
wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?
>
> >
>
> > ----- Original Message ----
>
> > From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@ .>
>
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>
> > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM
>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very
>
> edge, is raggedy
>
> >
>
> > looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal
>
> >
>
> > otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could be and
>
> >
>
> > how to treat it?
>
> >
>
> > Thanks.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > <!--
>
> >
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>
> >
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
>
> > Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
>
> > Ask your question on www.Answers. yahoo.com
>
> >
>
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> >
>
>
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>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Want to start your own business?
> Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20880 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
LFS is short for Local Fish Store.


-----Original Message-----
From: shrlycat@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting


What is "LFS"?) I was in Petco
this afternoon and didn't see> .

________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20881 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
(he would be eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
any tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20882 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
LFS.. Local fish store (or similar)

she will most likely find the food when she ventures out in the dark.
crays will find and utilize almost anything as food. Usually.. when
your not looking.

Iodine.. a few drops a week after water change. Calcium... use the
dosage chart it has on the back.. but only after a water change.
works for me real well.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> There are no other critters in her tank. It's a ten-gallon, with a
> large ceramic "bottle" which she hides in and a piece of driftwood.
> I'm probably over-feeding. I drop a few shrimp pellets in each day and
> try to get them to her as she's moving around so they don't dirty the
> tank. Once a week I add a freeze-dried shrimp. I've tried various
> vegetables (lettuce, peas, etc.) and she doesn't go for them. I know
> over-feeding is not good; I try not to, but I see her reaching up to
> the water surface and figure she's hungry. I'm doing water changes
> more frequently now (about once every two weeks). I tested for
> nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia and they were okay.
> I don't understand why the molt would be a problem when it's been at
> least two months since her last molt.(What is "LFS"?) I was in Petco
> this afternoon and didn't see iodine. I got melafix, which I've seen
> mentioned on other boards. How does one add trace elements and calcium
> to the tank? For the time being, I'm going to do a water change
> tomorrow and add the melafix.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@> wrote:
> >
> > What kind of fish do you have? Iodine is sold at the LFS in liquid
> form. Its for invertebrates. You might want to add some Trace elements
> and calcium to the tank to help when it molts also.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:08:43 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > No - I've never heard of that. Iodine in what form? Do
> pet stores have
> >
> > it specifically for this purpose? She molted about two months ago,
> >
> > ate most of the old shell, and I haven't seen any problem until
> >
> > yesterday. (She's over a year old)
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@ ...>
> wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Do you add iodine to your tank to help him when he molts?
> >
> > >
> >
> > > ----- Original Message ----
> >
> > > From: Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@ .>
> >
> > > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> >
> > > Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:34:40 PM
> >
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Blue crayfish: tail appears to be rotting
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
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> > > Today I noticed that my blue cray's tail, at the very
> >
> > edge, is raggedy
> >
> > >
> >
> > > looking, and it appears that some of it is missing. She seems normal
> >
> > >
> >
> > > otherwise - she's active and eating. Any ideas what this could
be and
> >
> > >
> >
> > > how to treat it?
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Thanks.
> >
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> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> >
> > > Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> >
> > > Ask your question on www.Answers. yahoo.com
> >
> > >
> >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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____________________________________________________________________________________
> > Want to start your own business?
> > Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.
> > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/r-index
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20883 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
FYI.. my bettas are housed with rosey barbs, gold barbs, (other types
of barbs can be aggressive, these are not), neons, angel fish, all
types of rainbow fish, algae eaters (the true ones, not the common
ones), common algae eaters, different types of tetras, including large
congo tetras. loaches, plecos, all types of catfish, etc... so try
it.. it will be a jewel among your fish!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...> wrote:
>
> FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
> have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
> (he would be eaten as a appetizer).
>
> My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
> any tail nippers in the bunch.
>
> Wendy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@> wrote:
> >
> > Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
> 29 gal
> > tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it
> :) I
> > bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
> learned that
> > males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> > females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
> > looking, happy, healthy community tank.
> >
> > Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me,
> I'd love
> > to read!
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@>
> > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
> >
> >
> > Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as
males, or
> > even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
> > well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
> > order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> > They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
> > other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> > tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> > frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
> > tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
> > females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
> > small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
> >
> > The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
> > I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> > disappointed.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20884 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: 1 more question
Agree with earlier remark that cloudy water is usually bacteria bloom.



But water alone from one tank will not cycle another tank. You want to seed
the bacteria from the existing tank into the new tank. You need material
where the bacteria grow, which is on every surface inside your tank and
filter. So add some used gravel or filter material to the new tank, get an
instant bio-filter, and avoid the cycle altogether!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: 1 more question



i m so stupid i don t know why i didn t think of that using water
from my other tank almost completely eliminating the cycle process i
feel like such an idiot well i m gonna do a water change in my 55
gallon tank of about 10 gallons and use that 10 gallons in my 29
gallon tank that water is still good in my 55 gallon tank too so i
should have no problems
thanks for the idea
but no thanks for makin me feel stupid lol j/k

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Been using alot of river gravel (pea size) in some of the tanks
that I'm switching over to more substrate spawners, it is interesting
that you are having a problem with it being cloudy. Course its been a
while since I've had to start over with the whole cycling process,
always cheat with water and such from other tanks around here.
>
> Whenever I do the vinegar test on rocks of any size I boil them
for at least 5 minutes afterwards just to be a safe killing any extra
things/bacteria and such that may still be attached then let cool
over night. Personally would do another water change but this is JMO
>
> Shannon
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this
is the first 1
> i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
this h
> appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it
down
> for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
> good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer
for
> it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
the
> rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
wash
> them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water
i
> also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the
best
> idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
gallon
> tank
> should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
couldn
> t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20885 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Ray,

I have changed the topic, since we are pretty much off the danios now,
though I am sure we can swing back that way and bore a couple of hundred
people more <g>. I think that now we are more on a topic that more
people can relate to and would have opinions to toss around here.

I suppose we could look back quite a ways, and find the Orientals being
the first to breed fish for bodily abnormalities and color patterns.
Think goldfish and koi. Koi were bred so the colors would mostly be on
the top of the body so that one could see them as they were viewed from
above, since they were in ponds. Goldfish were bred so they could be
viewed from the side in a tank setting.

Since then man has had a hand in developing many strains of many
different fish. We have already mentioned some, the betta, the guppy,
the angel fish, the discus, the dwarf gourami. There are many more. Back
in the day, we saw little of this breeding for various traits, except in
a very few fish--bettas, guppies and the aforementioned members of the
carp family. New varieties were few and far between. Now, it seems we
see at lest a couple of new varieties each year.

Don't get me wrong. I'm not against varieties of fish. For instance,
going back to the angels, a black veil tail is a nice looking fish.
However, I do not consider a long finned zebra fish (oh no! a danio!) as
a good fish. A zebra is a fish designed, by evolution, to be a fast
moving fish. The long fins just get in the way. The angel I mentioned,
on the other hand, does nothing to alter the design of the fish, but
spreads the color black through the whole body rather than just in some
vertical stripes. The veil factor makes the fin, if anything, a bit more
elegant. True, it would probably pale when placed against a full grown
scalare, since the fish tends to be smaller than a full grown "normal"
angel.

It is true that many varieties do not live up to the size of a fish that
is "natural", i.e., a fish that has not been bred to maintain or develop
a certain trait or traits. This is one of the downfalls of establishing
a trait. There is a lot of line breeding. Breeding of brother and
sister, father and daughter, son and mother. This will concentrate the
genes you are after, but it also has a side effect of concentrating the
genes you do not want. Highly developed traits will also show fish with
a lot of undesired traits. The fish will be weaker, have less resistance
to water conditions and disease, and so on and so forth.

Well, I'll stop for now, and I'm sure you and others will have comments
to be added to what I have written so far, as well as some taking some
pot shots. I'll expand on this topic further tomorrow or later in the
week. I've got a lot of mail to plow through now, and I'd like to at
least keep almost on top of it <g>.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 7:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, Appears as if I've gotten your adrenaline going, as you now
have mine. A lively and spirited (and harmonious) discussion is
always to my liking, on aquatic subjects, which has now gotten me
started. We (meaning the aquarium trade players as a whole) could
never begin to attempt to copy the beauty of nature or of any of the
wild forms of our many aquarium species. The sports of long fins or
albinism will always be promoted though as long as they keep
appearing in our tanks, as they have been from the beginnings of our
hobby (witness the Betta). Then too, as we know, the development of
both the Brick and the Blood Red Swordtail and various Platy color
varieties back in the '30's proved popular with the hobbyists as
vivid colors are sought after, and I do even need to go into the
popularity of the present development of the Guppy.

But, just as it seems you're pointing out, this has gotten way out of
proportion as with the myriad of Discus strains too numerous for me
to count, with new ones being produced all the time. A main problem,
and sad part, is that many of these fish are being produced and
CONTROLLED by a small faction of breeders in an attempt to line their
own pockets, who are not even in this country. How well I remember
Colisia lalia; I first started breeding this fish as a teenager in
1953. As you brought out, now you can't even find a female if you
wanted to breed them (and if you could find a normal, wild colored
male); the females are intentionally being withheld in these
shipments. This goes as well for many of the various Australian and
New Guinea species of Rainbowfish (all males and no females), if you
can find any which have not been interbred. These Asian breeders are
getting rich at the expense of the average hobbyist in this country
who no longer has the option to breed many of these species.

In this whole picture, this serves only to diminish the hobby in this
country (and around the world) while quick short-term profits are
being made, with the long term consequences that there may not be as
many people in the hobby some years down the road resulting in part
from their being curtailed in their endeavors. Far too much short
sightedness here -- while many asinine laws are being passed here on
our tropical fish, this disdainful and damaging practice should be
looked into and boycotted for the good of the hobby.

Do I remember the Tarzoo thread on AHHS? -- Yes indeed, although I
didn't know we could mention another group. It was partly with this
in mind (especially the replies made by our friend Bobby E.) that I
brought up the taxonomy of Angelfish. I too remember those
magnificent 6" to 8" long Angels with a height of from 10" to 12" --
and were NOT talking about Altums here -- I had them when I was a
kid and remember them well; this was in the very early '50's.
Today's Angels do not even begin to approach this size (and I'm
including my own here as well). By the time I began seriously
breeding Angels in the mid '60's, these Angels were not to be found
for the most part, and are certainly not in the hobby today; one more
reason why I believe today's fish is P. eimekei (a somewhat smaller
member of this Genus) or a cross between it and P. scalare, rather
than the true P. scalare which was always a much larger fish. While
this is certainly no positive proof, I get more convinced when I look
back on the original taxonomical works of the early describers and
wonder why today's name change came about, with this much evidence.

Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but it
was well before this time that the species' size began
deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru to
keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming in
from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion and
I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll soon
see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).

Getting back to Danios, hmm -- since these species can easily be
crossed, how about some long-finned flourescent glo-lite Giant Danios
(LOL). Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20886 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead of time? Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
(he would be eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
any tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@.. .> wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65 gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20887 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Angel Plague WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
I was not keeping angels at the time, so I was only interested in the
"angle plague" peripherally. Pretty much, angel fish just started
dieing. And they were dieing at a relatively young age and small size.
Once it hit you, all your angels were affected. Angels disappeared from
the market. You could not buy one for love or money. Everyone had a
theory as to what the cause was, but I do not believe that a cause was
ever definitively established. Some thought it was due to inbreeding,
some thought a bacteria was involved while others thought it was a
virus.

Sorry, but I can't come up with more. If I go to the boxes, I can
probably pull out some magazine articles about it, but that seems to be
a lot of effort for me right now. The long days I've been putting in
lately are beginning to show on this not so ancient body <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sarah
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

>>Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but it
>was well before this time that the species' size began
>deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
>dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
>as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru to
>keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
>originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming in
>from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion and
>I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
>notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll soon
>see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).





Normally I just lurk on here, but since I've seen this mentioned twice
now,
I have to ask about it. What was the "Angel Plague" that happened during
the
eighties? I'm afraid that was well before my time (I was born in '85 and
only started keeping fish when I was fourteen.) and I've never had
proper
setup to even think about keeping angels, so I don't know very much
about
them, other than the basics that I've read about here and there.



-Sarah
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20888 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Looking for fish now!
There is something I spaced "Killifish", recently took a trio of A. gardneri Akure and A. gardneri N'sukka to put into different partially planted tanks. They look really nice in there taking up and keeping the bottom area busy with their swimming in and around all the plants.

Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20889 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
If you did not let the rocks sit in a chlorine solution or boil them for
some time, your river rocks are not to be excluded from blame. However,
a bacterial bloom can happen frequently in a new tank. Generally it is
something you just have to ride out.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 1 more question

have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this is the first 1
i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had this h
appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it down
for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer for
it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of the
rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i wash
them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water i
also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the best
idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29 gallon
tank
should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it couldn
t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20890 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Answers for newbie
You can find out how many gallons you have and how much off which products at http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
I agree that you can never have too much filtration. However, you can under medicate. When ever you medicate and more air to the tanks. If you have more than the recommend number of fish you may need to use more medication. good luck and let me know if I can help.


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20891 From: steve Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
i did not boil the rocks is it a must do even after cleaning with
vinager

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> If you did not let the rocks sit in a chlorine solution or boil
them for
> some time, your river rocks are not to be excluded from blame.
However,
> a bacterial bloom can happen frequently in a new tank. Generally it
is
> something you just have to ride out.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:50 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] 1 more question
>
> have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this is the
first 1
> i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
this h
> appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it
down
> for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
> good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer
for
> it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
the
> rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
wash
> them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water
i
> also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the
best
> idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
gallon
> tank
> should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
couldn
> t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20892 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with a question
It is really up to you whether you use a UGF or not. If you do, the
reverse flow is probably the best way to go. The water does need to be
prefiltered prior to being brought down and under the gravel. If it is
not filtered, then you will face the same problem that you would have
when the substrate is used as a filter--particles caught in the gravel.

A UGF is not necessary, however. You can avoid anaerobic pockets in the
gravel by vacuuming a portion of it each time you do a water change (at
least weekly). This will help clean out the detritus that will end up in
the substrate, and stir it up. It is the detritus working its way down
through the substrate that will cause the gases that you were warned
about.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with a question

Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.

I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
releasing.

I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.

Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
cycles and I get fish in there.......

Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
power filter system?

Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.

Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20893 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: 1 more question
If vinegar is the strongest thing you used, yes. Normally, vinegar is
just used as a test to determine a rock's suitability for the tank.
While vinegar can be used for cleaning, it is not a good enough cleanser
to use on something like a rock to prepare it for use in a tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 1 more question

i did not boil the rocks is it a must do even after cleaning with
vinager

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> If you did not let the rocks sit in a chlorine solution or boil
them for
> some time, your river rocks are not to be excluded from blame.
However,
> a bacterial bloom can happen frequently in a new tank. Generally it
is
> something you just have to ride out.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:50 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] 1 more question
>
> have been cycling a tank for about 3 weeks now and this is the
first 1
> i have had this problem with the water is very cloudy never had
this h
> appen before to me i even had this tank running before and shut it
down
> for a little bit but now it is up again i cleaned out the tank very
> good the only thing i can think of that might take it a lil longer
for
> it to clear up or the reason i am having this problem is cause of
the
> rocks i pulled from the creek bed across the street from me but i
wash
> them very good with vinager and then rinsed the vinager with water
i
> also did a water change while it was cycling i know this isn t the
best
> idea to do cause it will take longer to cycle but the water is so
> cloudy you can barely see from side to side and it is only a 29
gallon
> tank
> should i do another water change and see what happens i guess it
couldn
> t hurt it just a longer cycling time right
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with another question!
If you tank is a 65, that is what you base your filter size on, your
heater size will also be based on that size. The reason you need to
know, with more accuracy, the amount of water you tank really contains
is for the use of additives, whether it be water conditioners, minerals,
trace elements, or medications.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: spgwg@...; Sabrina Penelope Gilbreath
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with another question!

Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response. I
REALLY appreciate it.

Here is another question.

I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water your
tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like for
giving medicine etc.

So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is that
the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when purchasing.
Actual water in tank?

thanks again
Patti

nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
Patti,

I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.

The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.

#1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.

I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
"REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
my Fluval 405 canister filter.

Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
water changes.

I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
submerged.

Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> releasing.
>
> I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
>
> Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> cycles and I get fish in there.......
>
> Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> power filter system?
>
> Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
>
> Patti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20895 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Thanks for the great information! If I decide to add the Bettas, do I add
them all at one time or do I add them a week or so apart? I'll wait until I
get the cycle finished and the numbers stable to add them. (As I'm typing
this I'm sitting near the new tank and can see a colorful, happy tank!)

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions


FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
(he would be eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
any tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20896 From: Kevin Date: 2/13/2007
Subject: Re: Where to get plants
Thanks for all the replys!



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cynthia brennemann"
<brennewoman@...> wrote:
>
> A lot of that depends on what water you have. Some plants thrive in
> acid water, some on alkaline...but mostly java fern is dead easy. YOu
> don't need to root it, in fact you can tie it down onto a rock or
> driftwood and it will anchor its roots and spread. I've found what
> they sell as mondo grass in petsmart is dead easy, as well. A little
> fertilizer tab at its roots and it runners all over the tank, making a
> rather unkempt but attractive lawn look. Riccia fluitans is also dead
> easy, and though it is a floater, if you tie it down (I use dental
> floss) to a rock or peice of driftwood it looks really lovely.
>
> If you have low light the madagascar lace plant is good...tall, looks
> like lace due to the holes in the leaves. You have to keep up on water
> changes, though...it looses leaves in old water
>
>
> > Was wondering if you guys that are in the know with plants could tell
> me (a Beginner) which plants (maybe 4-6) would be the least trouble to
> get going & keep Alive , easy in maintenance and require little
> lighting ?
> >
> > Hope i'm not over asking , if so i apologize .
>
> > Thanks ,
> > Shannon Nelson
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20897 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Morning... Well.. kind of trial and error. Most of the peaceful fish
leave each other alone. Usually.. most peaceful community fish will
leave the betta alone, as long as there are plenty of food, and other
activity in the tank. The only fish I ever had a problem with was the
dwarf gouramis.... they can get snippy sometimes. Most other fish are
cool. That is my only experience of a tail nipper.

WEndy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead
of time? Cory
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
> FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
> have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
> (he would be eaten as a appetizer).
>
> My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
> any tail nippers in the bunch.
>
> Wendy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@ .> wrote:
> >
> > Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
> 29 gal
> > tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in it
> :) I
> > bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
> learned that
> > males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> > females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a nice
> > looking, happy, healthy community tank.
> >
> > Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point me,
> I'd love
> > to read!
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> > To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
> >
> >
> > Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as males, or
> > even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young. Even
> > well socialized females will spend some time establishing a pecking
> > order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> > They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from each
> > other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> > tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> > frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them, it
> > tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to five
> > females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have some
> > small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
> >
> > The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they are.
> > I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> > disappointed.
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
> http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20898 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
You can only, should only, have ONE male in the tank. Period. They
will find each other and fight and one or both will die eventually
because of some type of infection from the torn scales or fins or stress.

So... add them as you would any new fish, acclemating them like any
new fish, putting the plastic bag and floating them in the water for
about 20 minutes etc...

However, only ONE male per tank! I have had 2 males before in a large
tank, but they eventually found each other, and I had to remove one.

If you have other fish in the tank, you can try to add a female or
two later. If the male "notices" the female, he may be aggressive
towards her. This isn't always "fighting", attraction and mating is
violent too. If the male notices the female and starts chasing her or
anything else... take her or him out immediately. (They never mate
successfully in a busy big community tank with lots of water movement
anyways.)

If you add females, you can add more than one. I treat them as any
other tropical fish. They tolerate each other well most times.

Hope this helped.

Wendy ;-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the great information! If I decide to add the Bettas, do
I add
> them all at one time or do I add them a week or so apart? I'll wait
until I
> get the cycle finished and the numbers stable to add them. (As I'm
typing
> this I'm sitting near the new tank and can see a colorful, happy tank!)
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
> have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank
> (he would be eaten as a appetizer).
>
> My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't
> any tail nippers in the bunch.
>
> Wendy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20899 From: Aaron Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Aquapet is Going Out-of-Business
Hi All,

if your in or near the East Bay, this LFS was a fovorite of mine for
the past 7 years or so, it'll be sad to see it go.


Aquapet (925) 443-TANK (8265)

Closing it's doors on 2/24/07 -

Everything must go - Great Deals! ~

101 N Livermore Ave.(at Railroad),

Livermore, CA 94550 (San Francisco Bay Area)

http://www.aquapet.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20900 From: micheal03us Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: my neons are weird
I've been noticing lately that when i turn the light of the tank on in
the mornings after they get fed, all my neons seem to want to be in
one corner of the tank. The danio swims around the top back and forth
as content as can be and the couple of white clouds I have will
venture to other parts of the tank to look around. My plecos are
content they play with each other and hide in the same ornament
together which I think is neat.
But with the neons when i turn the light out they all kinda freak a
little but I guess that would be frightened fish syndrome even though
the room lighting gets decreased in the evening before the tank light
is turned off. But after they settle they seem to spread out more and
venture around the tank more.
Do neons not like bright tanks lights or is there something in the
tank they don't like that they see with the light on but can't see
with the light off? Or do I just have bunch of strange fish? Last
week two of the neons died right out of the blue, nothing was wrong
with them that I could tell. Fish are sure hard to figure out.
Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20901 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: (tank volume calculator) Newbie with another question!
For those persons who do like to have a better estimate of actual
volume of their tanks.. I found this nice little calculator..

http://www.firsttankguide.net/calculator.php

for what it's worth.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> If you tank is a 65, that is what you base your filter size on, your
> heater size will also be based on that size. The reason you need to
> know, with more accuracy, the amount of water you tank really contains
> is for the use of additives, whether it be water conditioners, minerals,
> trace elements, or medications.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Patti M.
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: spgwg@...; Sabrina Penelope Gilbreath
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with another question!
>
> Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that response. I
> REALLY appreciate it.
>
> Here is another question.
>
> I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of water your
> tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like for
> giving medicine etc.
>
> So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is that
> the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when purchasing.
> Actual water in tank?
>
> thanks again
> Patti
>
> nrstype2004 <nursetype@...> wrote:
> Patti,
>
> I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
>
> The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
>
> #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase the
> filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
>
> I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the powerhead),
> and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't want to
> put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head, and
> forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces fine
> particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be filtered by
> my Fluval 405 canister filter.
>
> Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I have
> each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste from
> my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the filtering
> and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with my
> water changes.
>
> I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate with
> no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add a
> powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall to
> accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak knife,
> or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> submerged.
>
> Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> >
> > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a whisper
> > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter system
> > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something here and
> > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > releasing.
> >
> > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to keep
> > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> >
> > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the under
> > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> >
> > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard, the
> > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION to a
> > power filter system?
> >
> > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with etc.
> >
> > Patti
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20902 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Here is a very good guide for beginners & others interested.
I found this on the net. May help some members, seems to cover the
basics, and more, look to the bottom of the page for really good
advise and links..... for what its worth.

http://www.firsttankguide.net/

Wendy ;-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20903 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
My neons act similar. They are a schooling fish, & skittish. When
they do venture out, the school just gets "wider" really, they don't
really go out a lot on their own. With any sudden changes, they
tighten the school and go to a corner under some plants to hide. Go
figure.

I've had some just up and die, when everything was good water wise
and everything else. I even found one outside of the tank on the
carpet, dried up, behind the stand! HOW??? It had a tight fitting
lid. Only opening was the filter slot. (pretty tight at that).. Who
knows.

I got 12 neons a few months ago when they were a dollar a peice at
petsmart, I'd find one missing here or there, and I'm down to six.
No disease noted, just a fish missing or dead here and there, for no
reason I could find. But the six that are left has stayed the same
for 4 months now. Neons are a favorite, but this problem I see with
them when I put them in any of my tanks.

I just toss it up to the way they are, fragile, small, but quite a
common schooling fish.

Just talkin from my experience alone.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "micheal03us" <svensgirl@...> wrote:
>
> I've been noticing lately that when i turn the light of the tank on in
> the mornings after they get fed, all my neons seem to want to be in
> one corner of the tank. The danio swims around the top back and forth
> as content as can be and the couple of white clouds I have will
> venture to other parts of the tank to look around. My plecos are
> content they play with each other and hide in the same ornament
> together which I think is neat.
> But with the neons when i turn the light out they all kinda freak a
> little but I guess that would be frightened fish syndrome even though
> the room lighting gets decreased in the evening before the tank light
> is turned off. But after they settle they seem to spread out more and
> venture around the tank more.
> Do neons not like bright tanks lights or is there something in the
> tank they don't like that they see with the light on but can't see
> with the light off? Or do I just have bunch of strange fish? Last
> week two of the neons died right out of the blue, nothing was wrong
> with them that I could tell. Fish are sure hard to figure out.
> Karen.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20904 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Danios
Hank, Yeah, that's why I was afraid to list as many as I did, and
hestitated to list more, even if a complete list might be useful to
some people here (at least I hope so). Chances are, we'll never see
25% of these Danios available in the hobby. I'm still hoping to see
some of the latest Tetra discoveries; there was one in particular that
I read about (and saw photos) which was discovered only a few years ago
in the Guiana Highlands, named Aphyocharax yekwanae (after the Ye'kuana
Indians of the region -- shaped like the Bloodfin to which its related
but its bright green on the forward half of the body and blood red
(like a Cardinal) on the back half of the body. I told Za about it but
I doubt we'll ever see it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> Lisa will be gone for a while she's out looking for all those
> danios. (she should be back in a year or so.)
> Hank
> ======================
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20905 From: joe t Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
OK, Steve! Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. LOL


---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20906 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
Steve, Yes indfeed! First the Koreans and then the Chinese came a
long way in developing fancy Goldfish, while the Japanese have done
wonders with the pond fish Koi, and further developing their own
strains of Goldfish My train of thought on the topic of finnage and
color patterns was intended towards tropical fish rather rather than
cold water species, although I neglected to expressly state that, but
the Asian hobbyist have been into this for hundreds of years with
keeping them as pets as far back as the Sung Dynasty (late 10th
century), even referring to them as far back as 750 B.C. and cannot
be overlooked in the whole scheme of things.

While Goldfish were mainly bred to be viewed from the side, as in an
aquarium, especially those with long flowing finnage such as the
Japanese Fringetail (Veiltail) of which Franklin Barrett's famous
show-stopper comes to mind, there are other varieties which
additionally need to be top-viewed to be appreciated such as types of
Swallowtails and Broadtails; doubletailed varieties in which the
symmetry (unlike Koi) of color pattern and finnage can best be seen.

Yes, although there are some who prefer only a wild type of fish, I
too can appreciate veiltail finnage on some fish. Black Angels are
one of the most popular and sought after aquarium fish, when they can
be found. Along with the wild type, I happen to like a good Koi
Angel strain, far removed from its original appearance.

While line breeding is necessary to help maintain those
characteristics you want in a strain, you need to avoid to much
inbreeding. A parallel line of two similar (cousins) should be
maintained and used for crossing after no more than 5 generations.
To inbreed the same line (brothers & sisters) for more than that is
asking for trouble, and then too, wild stock should be introduced to
yours periodically to maintain the vigor. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I have changed the topic, since we are pretty much off the danios
now,
> though I am sure we can swing back that way and bore a couple of
hundred
> people more <g>. I think that now we are more on a topic that more
> people can relate to and would have opinions to toss around here.
>
> I suppose we could look back quite a ways, and find the Orientals
being
> the first to breed fish for bodily abnormalities and color patterns.
> Think goldfish and koi. Koi were bred so the colors would mostly be
on
> the top of the body so that one could see them as they were viewed
from
> above, since they were in ponds. Goldfish were bred so they could be
> viewed from the side in a tank setting.
>
> Since then man has had a hand in developing many strains of many
> different fish. We have already mentioned some, the betta, the
guppy,
> the angel fish, the discus, the dwarf gourami. There are many more.
Back
> in the day, we saw little of this breeding for various traits,
except in
> a very few fish--bettas, guppies and the aforementioned members of
the
> carp family. New varieties were few and far between. Now, it seems
we
> see at lest a couple of new varieties each year.
>
> Don't get me wrong. I'm not against varieties of fish. For instance,
> going back to the angels, a black veil tail is a nice looking fish.
> However, I do not consider a long finned zebra fish (oh no! a
danio!) as
> a good fish. A zebra is a fish designed, by evolution, to be a fast
> moving fish. The long fins just get in the way. The angel I
mentioned,
> on the other hand, does nothing to alter the design of the fish, but
> spreads the color black through the whole body rather than just in
some
> vertical stripes. The veil factor makes the fin, if anything, a bit
more
> elegant. True, it would probably pale when placed against a full
grown
> scalare, since the fish tends to be smaller than a full
grown "normal"
> angel.
>
> It is true that many varieties do not live up to the size of a fish
that
> is "natural", i.e., a fish that has not been bred to maintain or
develop
> a certain trait or traits. This is one of the downfalls of
establishing
> a trait. There is a lot of line breeding. Breeding of brother and
> sister, father and daughter, son and mother. This will concentrate
the
> genes you are after, but it also has a side effect of concentrating
the
> genes you do not want. Highly developed traits will also show fish
with
> a lot of undesired traits. The fish will be weaker, have less
resistance
> to water conditions and disease, and so on and so forth.
>
> Well, I'll stop for now, and I'm sure you and others will have
comments
> to be added to what I have written so far, as well as some taking
some
> pot shots. I'll expand on this topic further tomorrow or later in
the
> week. I've got a lot of mail to plow through now, and I'd like to at
> least keep almost on top of it <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 7:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, Appears as if I've gotten your adrenaline going, as you now
> have mine. A lively and spirited (and harmonious) discussion is
> always to my liking, on aquatic subjects, which has now gotten me
> started. We (meaning the aquarium trade players as a whole) could
> never begin to attempt to copy the beauty of nature or of any of
the
> wild forms of our many aquarium species. The sports of long fins
or
> albinism will always be promoted though as long as they keep
> appearing in our tanks, as they have been from the beginnings of
our
> hobby (witness the Betta). Then too, as we know, the development
of
> both the Brick and the Blood Red Swordtail and various Platy color
> varieties back in the '30's proved popular with the hobbyists as
> vivid colors are sought after, and I do even need to go into the
> popularity of the present development of the Guppy.
>
> But, just as it seems you're pointing out, this has gotten way out
of
> proportion as with the myriad of Discus strains too numerous for me
> to count, with new ones being produced all the time. A main
problem,
> and sad part, is that many of these fish are being produced and
> CONTROLLED by a small faction of breeders in an attempt to line
their
> own pockets, who are not even in this country. How well I remember
> Colisia lalia; I first started breeding this fish as a teenager in
> 1953. As you brought out, now you can't even find a female if you
> wanted to breed them (and if you could find a normal, wild colored
> male); the females are intentionally being withheld in these
> shipments. This goes as well for many of the various Australian
and
> New Guinea species of Rainbowfish (all males and no females), if
you
> can find any which have not been interbred. These Asian breeders
are
> getting rich at the expense of the average hobbyist in this country
> who no longer has the option to breed many of these species.
>
> In this whole picture, this serves only to diminish the hobby in
this
> country (and around the world) while quick short-term profits are
> being made, with the long term consequences that there may not be
as
> many people in the hobby some years down the road resulting in part
> from their being curtailed in their endeavors. Far too much short
> sightedness here -- while many asinine laws are being passed here
on
> our tropical fish, this disdainful and damaging practice should be
> looked into and boycotted for the good of the hobby.
>
> Do I remember the Tarzoo thread on AHHS? -- Yes indeed, although I
> didn't know we could mention another group. It was partly with
this
> in mind (especially the replies made by our friend Bobby E.) that I
> brought up the taxonomy of Angelfish. I too remember those
> magnificent 6" to 8" long Angels with a height of from 10" to 12" --

> and were NOT talking about Altums here -- I had them when I was a
> kid and remember them well; this was in the very early '50's.
> Today's Angels do not even begin to approach this size (and I'm
> including my own here as well). By the time I began seriously
> breeding Angels in the mid '60's, these Angels were not to be found
> for the most part, and are certainly not in the hobby today; one
more
> reason why I believe today's fish is P. eimekei (a somewhat smaller
> member of this Genus) or a cross between it and P. scalare, rather
> than the true P. scalare which was always a much larger fish.
While
> this is certainly no positive proof, I get more convinced when I
look
> back on the original taxonomical works of the early describers and
> wonder why today's name change came about, with this much evidence.
>
> Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but
it
> was well before this time that the species' size began
> deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
> dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
> as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru
to
> keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
> originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming
in
> from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion
and
> I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
> notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll
soon
> see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).
>
> Getting back to Danios, hmm -- since these species can easily be
> crossed, how about some long-finned flourescent glo-lite Giant
Danios
> (LOL). Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20907 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee! I just
got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take out
stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.

Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
do that instead.

This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.

What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
and healthy fish.

Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
reply from work much.

Patti M
Denton/Dallas area
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20908 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Actually, males CAN be put into community tanks. Every community tank
I've had since childhood has had at least one male betta. They do need
good places to hide (usually near the heater) in plants and such to be
happy, but my males happily coincide with small tetras, dainos,
angelfish, gouramis, discus, cory catfish, otoclinus, glass shrimp,
dwarf african frogs...etc...

As a matter of fact, I've been startling people lately with my
community tanks which have multiple MALE bettas in them due to the way
I rear them. I allow the father betta to rear his fry to adulthood.
The males do not fill out completely, finnage wise, until they are
removed to their own tank, but they get along fine with their siblings
as long as the father is with them. Ive had five or more males and
females in one tank for over a year with little to no fin nipping.


>I've learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20909 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
What kind of plants do they like? Anything in particular. Right now I have 1 male in a 10g tank with some plastic plants and one live, snail-bearing banana plant. He is a dreamsicle color and after reading all of this info, I'd kinda like to breed him.......not sure what I'd do with all the babies, though....


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:38:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

Actually, males CAN be put into community tanks. Every community tank
I've had since childhood has had at least one male betta. They do need
good places to hide (usually near the heater) in plants and such to be
happy, but my males happily coincide with small tetras, dainos,
angelfish, gouramis, discus, cory catfish, otoclinus, glass shrimp,
dwarf african frogs...etc. ..

As a matter of fact, I've been startling people lately with my
community tanks which have multiple MALE bettas in them due to the way
I rear them. I allow the father betta to rear his fry to adulthood.
The males do not fill out completely, finnage wise, until they are
removed to their own tank, but they get along fine with their siblings
as long as the father is with them. Ive had five or more males and
females in one tank for over a year with little to no fin nipping.

>I've learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank,






____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20910 From: Leonard Vasbinder Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: caught an alligator
Google "Alligator Sauce Picante". That's what we do with them down
here in N'Awlins! :-D BAMMMM!!!! (My regards to Emeril)

Lenny V.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> OK, Steve! Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. LOL
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20911 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
Cory,

One good way to find compatible tank mates is to look at profile of the
various fish. http://fish.mongabay.com (Scroll down to the Search link) is
a very good source for profiles on most fish and then there are many
specialty sites for specific fish. On Mongabay, there is almost always a
paragraph with SC (Species Compatibility) which tells you which are the most
likely to be compatible with your fish. There are usually bits of
information in the profiles which tell you if a particular fish is know to
be a fin nipper, about their aggressiveness, etc. It's one of many very
good profile sites and should always be checked when researching any type of
fish.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Posted by: "Cory"
Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:04 pm (PST)
How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead of
time? Cory

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...
<mailto:nursetype%40wowway.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g
tank
(he would be eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there
aren't
any tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in
it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a
nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point
me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as
males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young.
Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a
pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from
each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them,
it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to
five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have
some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they
are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20912 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: OT - Just a plea
I just switched back to the individual messages, instead of the Daily
Digest, primarily because some of the replies are not being "edited" to
remove all of the "junk" that is automatically added by the new Yahoo Group
features.
Below my signature, is what followed several recent messages in a Daily
Digest. I, and I'm sure others, are getting Carpal Tunnel Syndrome from
having to scroll through this 2-3 pages of gibberish. Please, please,
"edit" the junk in your emails, under the original email, before hitting the
"Send" button... for the sake of people on the Daily Digest and for people
that still pay for internet access time (not everyone in the world has
access to unlimited high speed internet access).
Thanks a million.
Lenny V.
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

> > > Thanks.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
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> >
> > >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> >
> > > Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know.
> >
> > > Ask your question on www.Answers. yahoo.com
> >
> > >
> >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20913 From: Patti M. Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.

Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?

Thanks
Patti M

Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee! I just
got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take out
stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.

Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
do that instead.

This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.

What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
and healthy fish.

Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
reply from work much.

Patti M
Denton/Dallas area






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20914 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
I'm really enjoying and appreciate the information about the Bettas. I'm not
planning what to add to my tank since I don't think it has many hiding
places for fish. I've read several things about using planters or pots. How
'bout coffee mugs that aren't being used, if they're cleaned/rinsed well? I
have several that I don't want to part with, yet, don't really use - seeing
them in the tank would be nice.

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20915 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Plastic plants can rip their fins. While living plants can provide
them with entertainment. I have a large mat of floating riccia
fluitans in each of my tanks. Not only do my bettas like to forage
among it for baby snails to eat, they will occasionally flip up on top
to 'sunbathe' I've yet to see a plant they didn't like nosing about.
I've got java ferns, java moss, crypts, vals, swords, anubias, banana
plants, dwarf mondo grass, dwarf hair grass, giant hair grass...several
others I cannot remember off the top of my head.

If you go with the father rearing the fry method, you won't have too
many babies to worry about placing. They can share the tank with the
father for quite a while, and he will eat all the weak and malformed
fry.

> What kind of plants do they like? Anything in particular. Right now
I have 1 male in a 10g tank with some plastic plants and one live,
snail-bearing banana plant. He is a dreamsicle color and after reading
all of this info, I'd kinda like to breed him.......not sure what I'd
do with all the babies, though....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20916 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Make sure they are not glazed with something harmful, and any sharp
chipped areas are buried beneath the sand/gravel
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20917 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
I use a couple of glazed ceramic coffee mugs in one of my smaller tanks. I
actually have plants in them with some gravel as a substrate. I only use
about 1/2" to 1" of gravel in my tanks, so it's easier to clean, but I like
live plants so that solves the problem. I don't worry about any excess
detritus in the coffee cup plants since the plants use the nutrients. I use
2" or 3" clay pots in my larger tank.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Camp
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

I'm really enjoying and appreciate the information about the Bettas. I'm not
planning what to add to my tank since I don't think it has many hiding
places for fish. I've read several things about using planters or pots. How
'bout coffee mugs that aren't being used, if they're cleaned/rinsed well? I
have several that I don't want to part with, yet, don't really use - seeing
them in the tank would be nice.

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20918 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
All of this info is so wonderful.......I just called my LPS and asked if they had yoyo loaches to go in my betta tank for the snails......they said they were very hard to find and that clown loaches worked very well. Said they got along with angel fish and didn't nip at the fins, but angels and bettas couldn't be put in the same tank......when asked about plants, they said the new plastic ones coming out now were better than the live ones because they work just as well and don't deteriorate and mess up the tank. Now I'm getting confused again......if I breed my dreamsicle betta and put a loach in with it, should I remove the loach for breeding?


----- Original Message ----
From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 3:45:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

Plastic plants can rip their fins. While living plants can provide
them with entertainment. I have a large mat of floating riccia
fluitans in each of my tanks. Not only do my bettas like to forage
among it for baby snails to eat, they will occasionally flip up on top
to 'sunbathe' I've yet to see a plant they didn't like nosing about.
I've got java ferns, java moss, crypts, vals, swords, anubias, banana
plants, dwarf mondo grass, dwarf hair grass, giant hair grass...several
others I cannot remember off the top of my head.

If you go with the father rearing the fry method, you won't have too
many babies to worry about placing. They can share the tank with the
father for quite a while, and he will eat all the weak and malformed
fry.

> What kind of plants do they like? Anything in particular. Right now
I have 1 male in a 10g tank with some plastic plants and one live,
snail-bearing banana plant. He is a dreamsicle color and after reading
all of this info, I'd kinda like to breed him.......not sure what I'd
do with all the babies, though....






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20919 From: Rich Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: (tank volume calculator) Newbie with another question!
Cool website.Thanks Wendy. From,
Rich


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004"
<nursetype@...> wrote:
>
> For those persons who do like to have a better estimate of actual
> volume of their tanks.. I found this nice little calculator..
>
> http://www.firsttankguide.net/calculator.php
>
> for what it's worth.
>
> Wendy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > If you tank is a 65, that is what you base your filter size on,
your
> > heater size will also be based on that size. The reason you need
to
> > know, with more accuracy, the amount of water you tank really
contains
> > is for the use of additives, whether it be water conditioners,
minerals,
> > trace elements, or medications.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Patti M.
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:49 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Cc: spgwg@; Sabrina Penelope Gilbreath
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with another question!
> >
> > Hi again. Thanks Wendy! you spent a lot of time on that
response. I
> > REALLY appreciate it.
> >
> > Here is another question.
> >
> > I read somewhere that you need to know how many gallons of
water your
> > tank REALLY holds, not just the size it was made as........like
for
> > giving medicine etc.
> >
> > So if I had a 65 tank, and it help only 60 gallons of water, is
that
> > the number I want to base my filtering and heater on when
purchasing.
> > Actual water in tank?
> >
> > thanks again
> > Patti
> >
> > nrstype2004 <nursetype@> wrote:
> > Patti,
> >
> > I have an UGF on ALL of my tanks, except the 5 gallon ones. The
> > larges I have is a 90 G with a BIG, two part UGF on it.
> >
> > The only thing I can tell you is from my own experience.
> >
> > #1 ~ You can never have too much filtration! An UGF provides and
> > excellent bed of beneficial bacteria. However, the air stones that
> > are supplied with them are NEVER enough. If you want to increase
the
> > filtering capacity by 100 times greater, add a power head at each
> > side! I can't stress this enough. Power heads on an UGF increases
> > the beneficial effects X 100 that of an airstone.
> >
> > I have one power head on on side sucking the water UP (water flows
> > through the gravel, and UP the uplift tube, then out the
powerhead),
> > and i have 2 airstones in the 2 center uplift tubes. (I didn't
want to
> > put a powerhead on every tube) Then I have a powerhead with a
> > "REVERSE FLOW" adapter on it. It takes the water directly from the
> > aquarium area, into a prefilter sponge, through the power head,
and
> > forces the water DOWN under the grate of the UGF, which forces
fine
> > particulate mater UP through the gravel bed, so it can be
filtered by
> > my Fluval 405 canister filter.
> >
> > Since this UGF is divided into two large sections (on mine), I
have
> > each section set up slightly differently. I have a lot of waste
from
> > my very very large fishes in that tank, and it takes all the
filtering
> > and water changes that it can get. I still vacume the gravel
> > bi-weekly to weekly, depending on the condition of the tank, with
my
> > water changes.
> >
> > I would never use and UGF alone, but in combination with a power
> > filter, you will get better results than just a gravel substrate
with
> > no function. This makes your gravel work for you. Remember to add
a
> > powerhead. The uplift tubes can be cut if the tubes are too tall
to
> > accomidate a powerhead. (carefully.. I use a small sharp steak
knife,
> > or then a tiny saw, or dremel to cut them) The powerhead must be
> > submerged.
> >
> > Hope this helps. I love my combo filtration setup in 6 of my big
> > tanks: sponge filter, UGF, and power filters/canister filters.
> >
> > Wendy :-)
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, Patti here in Denton TX, near Dallas. Just joined.
> > >
> > > I am setting up a 55 gallon fresh water tank, and am using a
whisper
> > > power filter. I decided not to use the under gravel filter
system
> > > in addition to the whisper filter as I have heard something
here and
> > > there about the possibility of toxins building up and suddenly
> > > releasing.
> > >
> > > I am at this time only using gravel, no live plants. I want to
keep
> > > an easy to keep, clean aquarium environment.
> > >
> > > Since I am setting up, this would be the time to put in the
under
> > > gravel filter system (which I have, by the way), before my tank
> > > cycles and I get fish in there.......
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me from experience or from what you have heard,
the
> > > pros or cons of using an under gravel filter system IN ADDITION
to a
> > > power filter system?
> > >
> > > Thanks so much, and thanks for being here to help, chat with
etc.
> > >
> > > Patti
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20920 From: steve Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
i have had no problems with my emperor 400 and it was running a 55
gallon saltwater tank but is now a freshwater tank cause i got a lil
crazy and got a 90 gallon salt tank and i have had it running for
about 3 - 3.5 years now total 2 - 2.5 years of salt and about 1 yr of
freshwater use and it is still quite too i think it is a good choice
also again though i have never used anything else besides emperor or
penguins well except for my 90 gallon tank which is run on refigium-
wet/dry system

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
> in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
> do that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
> probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
> reply from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20921 From: steve Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from
www.drsfosterandsmith.com
you will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think
LFS sell them for anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher
end and at drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on
sale even regular price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping
is for it but there is no way it will be $35
i just found out about this website a few months ago i could of saved
alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
> in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
> do that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
> probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
> reply from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20922 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Loaches will eat the eggs, and small fry. If you breed the betta, it
should be alone (just the male/female) to be in a small tank,
separate, for the best possible results. I use a 2.5 gallon tank with
a gentle sponge filter. I've successfully raised 10 breedings. Lots
of babies.. housed together for a very very long time.. several
months. Gave some away.. kept some, traded some.

Bettas can be housed with angels. I have one male betta in two of my
angel tanks. they are doing fine.

If your going artificial, go silk plants... they are softer.

Wendy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> All of this info is so wonderful.......I just called my LPS and
asked if they had yoyo loaches to go in my betta tank for the
snails......they said they were very hard to find and that clown
loaches worked very well. Said they got along with angel fish and
didn't nip at the fins, but angels and bettas couldn't be put in the
same tank......when asked about plants, they said the new plastic ones
coming out now were better than the live ones because they work just
as well and don't deteriorate and mess up the tank. Now I'm getting
confused again......if I breed my dreamsicle betta and put a loach in
with it, should I remove the loach for breeding?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 3:45:43 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
> Plastic plants can rip their fins. While living plants can provide
> them with entertainment. I have a large mat of floating riccia
> fluitans in each of my tanks. Not only do my bettas like to forage
> among it for baby snails to eat, they will occasionally flip up on top
> to 'sunbathe' I've yet to see a plant they didn't like nosing about.
> I've got java ferns, java moss, crypts, vals, swords, anubias, banana
> plants, dwarf mondo grass, dwarf hair grass, giant hair grass...several
> others I cannot remember off the top of my head.
>
> If you go with the father rearing the fry method, you won't have too
> many babies to worry about placing. They can share the tank with the
> father for quite a while, and he will eat all the weak and malformed
> fry.
>
> > What kind of plants do they like? Anything in particular. Right now
> I have 1 male in a 10g tank with some plastic plants and one live,
> snail-bearing banana plant. He is a dreamsicle color and after reading
> all of this info, I'd kinda like to breed him.......not sure what I'd
> do with all the babies, though....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20923 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Dr. Fosters & Smith.. YUP! I send them a $100 - 300 buck order once
every 2 - 3 months I think! hehe They have a lot of choices, and
really stand behind what they sell.

I bought a CELLPORE Biological Media thing for 2 of my filters. I
didn't like them because they cut the flow down and my biowheel
wouldn't operate normally... so they credited my account. No
questions asked.

Excellent service.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from
> www.drsfosterandsmith.com
> you will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think
> LFS sell them for anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher
> end and at drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on
> sale even regular price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping
> is for it but there is no way it will be $35
> i just found out about this website a few months ago i could of saved
> alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
> just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
> >
> > Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Patti M
> >
> > Patti M <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
> I just
> > got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
> out
> > stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
> >
> > Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> > power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
> > in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
> > do that instead.
> >
> > This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
> > probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.
> >
> > What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> > and healthy fish.
> >
> > Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
> > reply from work much.
> >
> > Patti M
> > Denton/Dallas area
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20924 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
I use an Emperor 400 with my 55 gallon cichlid tank ... does a great job!
Fred

"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.

Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?

Thanks
Patti M

Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee! I just
got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take out
stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.

Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
do that instead.

This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.

What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
and healthy fish.

Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
reply from work much.

Patti M
Denton/Dallas area

---------------------------------
Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20925 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
I'm glad to learn all this. I just called my LPS asking for a yoyo loach to go with my betta to eat the snails. They told me they are very hard to find and I needed a clown loach for the snails but that there wasn't anything compatable with the betta except maybe the clown since it got along well with angel fish but that angel fish won't go with bettas. I am getting confused again, now. I asked about planting the tank and she told me the plastic plants were as good or better than the live plants. Not knowing anything about the plantings, I'm not confused about that unless I find out different info.


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:30:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

Cory,

One good way to find compatible tank mates is to look at profile of the
various fish. http://fish. mongabay. com (Scroll down to the Search link) is
a very good source for profiles on most fish and then there are many
specialty sites for specific fish. On Mongabay, there is almost always a
paragraph with SC (Species Compatibility) which tells you which are the most
likely to be compatible with your fish. There are usually bits of
information in the profiles which tell you if a particular fish is know to
be a fin nipper, about their aggressiveness, etc. It's one of many very
good profile sites and should always be checked when researching any type of
fish.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Posted by: "Cory"
Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:04 pm (PST)
How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead of
time? Cory

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@wowway. com
<mailto:nursetype% 40wowway. com> >
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I
have ONE male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g
tank
(he would be eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there
aren't
any tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in
it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a
nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point
me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as
males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young.
Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a
pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from
each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them,
it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to
five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have
some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they
are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20926 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their main site
I just listed)is a reputable and pretty good website, their regular online
prices aren't nearly as low as many other sites. Now, when you get
something that is on sale or discontinued/clearance, then they have pretty
good prices... but most other sites also have sale and
discontinued/clearance items at much better prices. Shop around!

Check with http://www.BigAlsOnline.com and http://www.MarineDepot.com for
comparative pricing. Also, remember that http://www.PetsMart.com also has
their sale and clearance pages. Another thing about PetsMart is their local
stores will match their own internet pricing... at least mine does... so if
you need something right away, always check their internet prices first,
print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to 40% off the
shelf prices on many items this way. Petco's do not seem to have a policy
of matching their online prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 4:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel

just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from www.drsfosterandsmith.com you
will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think LFS sell them for
anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher end and at
drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on sale even regular
price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping is for it but there is no
way it will be $35 i just found out about this website a few months ago i
could of saved alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter in
> the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to do
> that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would probably
> up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really reply
> from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20927 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Yeah.. you have to shop around. One place has flourite gravel at 16$
for 20 pounds (excellent deal), and another has that filter media I've
been wanting cheap. I usually give my order to whom has all the stuff
I want. If I want a lot of things.

BUT.. One comon denominator.. almost EVERY TIME.... online is cheaper
than at the LFS LPS.. unless you can get something specialized/or on
clearance.

Wen
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
> http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their
main site
> I just listed)is a reputable and pretty good website, their regular
online
> prices aren't nearly as low as many other sites. Now, when you get
> something that is on sale or discontinued/clearance, then they have
pretty
> good prices... but most other sites also have sale and
> discontinued/clearance items at much better prices. Shop around!
>
> Check with http://www.BigAlsOnline.com and
http://www.MarineDepot.com for
> comparative pricing. Also, remember that http://www.PetsMart.com
also has
> their sale and clearance pages. Another thing about PetsMart is
their local
> stores will match their own internet pricing... at least mine
does... so if
> you need something right away, always check their internet prices first,
> print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to 40%
off the
> shelf prices on many items this way. Petco's do not seem to have a
policy
> of matching their online prices.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 4:14 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
>
> just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from
www.drsfosterandsmith.com you
> will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think LFS sell them for
> anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher end and at
> drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on sale even
regular
> price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping is for it but
there is no
> way it will be $35 i just found out about this website a few months
ago i
> could of saved alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
> just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
> >
> > Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Patti M
> >
> > Patti M <msrnt2004@> wrote:
> > Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
> I just
> > got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
> out
> > stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
> >
> > Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> > power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my
filter in
> > the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to do
> > that instead.
> >
> > This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
probably
> > up to the one for 80 gallons even.
> >
> > What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> > and healthy fish.
> >
> > Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really reply
> > from work much.
> >
> > Patti M
> > Denton/Dallas area
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20928 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: tank lids
Ok so a few months ago I posted an inquiry about getting a new lid for my
tank being that my cracked on both sides there for I cant lift it up to clean as
it falls into the water.. what a joy this is let me tell you cause I have to
have someone come help me do water changes which is even more drama than the
water changes themselves.. So I finally am able to afford a new lid and I
find one at petsmart that isn't too crappy cause believe me their selection
left nothing to be desired.. I get home and realize that they have changed the
back of the lid so that I have to change the position of my filter and switch
it with my heater which means do to my live plants I am going to have to
move them as well or 2 of them will end up in the filter.. NOT HAPPY, so I
decide to go to a few other local stores and petco only to find the same dang
problem.. so why is it that they have done this.. Its going to be so much work
just to have a new lid... Anyone have a clue??? Shannon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 40
OK, I don’t want to overwhelm you more, but here is my 2 cents. I have a
Eheim Ecco for 90 gallon tank. I do prefer canisters over power filters
(have both, all power filters are now retired, too noisy). I also have a
smaller Ecco on another tank. I would buy again.



I would not do UGF, but only because in my reading it seemed to imply they
were state-of-the-art years ago and now there are better options. No
personal experience.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 12:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 400
Bio-Wheel



Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee! I just
got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take out
stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.

Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
do that instead.

This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.

What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
and healthy fish.

Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
reply from work much.

Patti M
Denton/Dallas area





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20930 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
I think you are in the process of learning a HUGE lesson. Most employees at
pet stores... or even at many LFS, do not know their * from a hole in the
ground when it comes to keeping fish. Both of the things they just told you
are completely WRONG!

Did they ask you what size tank you have when they recommended the clown
loach? Here is Mongabay's profile...
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html where you will see
that they grow to 20" (although on average only 12" since so many get
stunted from being kept in too small tanks) and need to be kept in schools
of five or more so a 6' long, 100G+ tank (minimum) is required to keep them
healthy and happy.

Plastic plants are nowhere near as good as live plants. Live plants
actually add to the overall ecology and health of your tank where plastic
plants are just decorations. Live plants require a little more work but
their benefits to your tank and fish are many fold. Even simple "very easy"
to grow plants like
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2 or the
"easy" to grow plants here
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3 will
beautify your tank and make it much more healthy and less maintenance once
your planted tank is established.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

I'm glad to learn all this. I just called my LPS asking for a yoyo loach to
go with my betta to eat the snails. They told me they are very hard to find
and I needed a clown loach for the snails but that there wasn't anything
compatable with the betta except maybe the clown since it got along well
with angel fish but that angel fish won't go with bettas. I am getting
confused again, now. I asked about planting the tank and she told me the
plastic plants were as good or better than the live plants. Not knowing
anything about the plantings, I'm not confused about that unless I find out
different info.


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:30:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

Cory,

One good way to find compatible tank mates is to look at profile of the
various fish. http://fish. mongabay. com (Scroll down to the Search link) is
a very good source for profiles on most fish and then there are many
specialty sites for specific fish. On Mongabay, there is almost always a
paragraph with SC (Species Compatibility) which tells you which are the most
likely to be compatible with your fish. There are usually bits of
information in the profiles which tell you if a particular fish is know to
be a fin nipper, about their aggressiveness, etc. It's one of many very good
profile sites and should always be checked when researching any type of
fish.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Posted by: "Cory"
Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:04 pm (PST)
How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead of time?
Cory

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@wowway. com <mailto:nursetype% 40wowway. com> >
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I have ONE
male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank (he would be
eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't any
tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in
it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a
nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point
me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as
males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young.
Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a
pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from
each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them,
it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to
five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have
some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they
are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________
________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20931 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
I have had mine for several years now. It’s getting to be about that time
to replace the impellers as they don’t work as well as they used to, but
other than that, they are awesome filters. I have 2 on each of my 55 gals
and they help keep the water nice and clean for my fish.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 4:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel



i have had no problems with my emperor 400 and it was running a 55
gallon saltwater tank but is now a freshwater tank cause i got a lil
crazy and got a 90 gallon salt tank and i have had it running for
about 3 - 3.5 years now total 2 - 2.5 years of salt and about 1 yr of
freshwater use and it is still quite too i think it is a good choice
also again though i have never used anything else besides emperor or
penguins well except for my 90 gallon tank which is run on refigium-
wet/dry system

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
> in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
> do that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
> probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
> reply from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Access over 1 million songs - Yahoo! Music Unlimited.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20932 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
Fantastic....thanks...Cory

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:52:08 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

Loaches will eat the eggs, and small fry. If you breed the betta, it
should be alone (just the male/female) to be in a small tank,
separate, for the best possible results. I use a 2.5 gallon tank with
a gentle sponge filter. I've successfully raised 10 breedings. Lots
of babies.. housed together for a very very long time.. several
months. Gave some away.. kept some, traded some.

Bettas can be housed with angels. I have one male betta in two of my
angel tanks. they are doing fine.

If your going artificial, go silk plants... they are softer.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Cory Walter <wdwwife@... > wrote:
>
> All of this info is so wonderful... ....I just called my LPS and
asked if they had yoyo loaches to go in my betta tank for the
snails...... they said they were very hard to find and that clown
loaches worked very well. Said they got along with angel fish and
didn't nip at the fins, but angels and bettas couldn't be put in the
same tank......when asked about plants, they said the new plastic ones
coming out now were better than the live ones because they work just
as well and don't deteriorate and mess up the tank. Now I'm getting
confused again......if I breed my dreamsicle betta and put a loach in
with it, should I remove the loach for breeding?
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: cynthia brennemann <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 3:45:43 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
> Plastic plants can rip their fins. While living plants can provide
> them with entertainment. I have a large mat of floating riccia
> fluitans in each of my tanks. Not only do my bettas like to forage
> among it for baby snails to eat, they will occasionally flip up on top
> to 'sunbathe' I've yet to see a plant they didn't like nosing about.
> I've got java ferns, java moss, crypts, vals, swords, anubias, banana
> plants, dwarf mondo grass, dwarf hair grass, giant hair grass...several
> others I cannot remember off the top of my head.
>
> If you go with the father rearing the fry method, you won't have too
> many babies to worry about placing. They can share the tank with the
> father for quite a while, and he will eat all the weak and malformed
> fry.
>
> > What kind of plants do they like? Anything in particular. Right now
> I have 1 male in a 10g tank with some plastic plants and one live,
> snail-bearing banana plant. He is a dreamsicle color and after reading
> all of this info, I'd kinda like to breed him.......not sure what I'd
> do with all the babies, though....
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
> http://farechase. yahoo.com/ promo-generic- 14795097
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/domains/?p=BESTDEAL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20933 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
And a big thank you to you, too.......Think I'll take my cues off of here and just go get what I am supposed to have......Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 7:39:44 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

I think you are in the process of learning a HUGE lesson. Most employees at
pet stores... or even at many LFS, do not know their * from a hole in the
ground when it comes to keeping fish. Both of the things they just told you
are completely WRONG!

Did they ask you what size tank you have when they recommended the clown
loach? Here is Mongabay's profile...
http://fish. mongabay. com/species/ Botia_macracanth us.html where you will see
that they grow to 20" (although on average only 12" since so many get
stunted from being kept in too small tanks) and need to be kept in schools
of five or more so a 6' long, 100G+ tank (minimum) is required to keep them
healthy and happy.

Plastic plants are nowhere near as good as live plants. Live plants
actually add to the overall ecology and health of your tank where plastic
plants are just decorations. Live plants require a little more work but
their benefits to your tank and fish are many fold. Even simple "very easy"
to grow plants like
http://www.plantgee k.net/plantguide _list.php? category= 2&filter_ by=2 or the
"easy" to grow plants here
http://www.plantgee k.net/plantguide _list.php? category= 2&filter_ by=3 will
beautify your tank and make it much more healthy and less maintenance once
your planted tank is established.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

I'm glad to learn all this. I just called my LPS asking for a yoyo loach to
go with my betta to eat the snails. They told me they are very hard to find
and I needed a clown loach for the snails but that there wasn't anything
compatable with the betta except maybe the clown since it got along well
with angel fish but that angel fish won't go with bettas. I am getting
confused again, now. I asked about planting the tank and she told me the
plastic plants were as good or better than the live plants. Not knowing
anything about the plantings, I'm not confused about that unless I find out
different info.

----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@gmail. com>
To: aquaticlife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 2:30:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions - Wendy

Cory,

One good way to find compatible tank mates is to look at profile of the
various fish. http://fish. mongabay. com (Scroll down to the Search link) is
a very good source for profiles on most fish and then there are many
specialty sites for specific fish. On Mongabay, there is almost always a
paragraph with SC (Species Compatibility) which tells you which are the most
likely to be compatible with your fish. There are usually bits of
information in the profiles which tell you if a particular fish is know to
be a fin nipper, about their aggressiveness, etc. It's one of many very good
profile sites and should always be checked when researching any type of
fish.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Posted by: "Cory"
Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:04 pm (PST)
How do you determine who are the tail nippers? Can you know ahead of time?
Cory

----- Original Message ----
From: nrstype2004 <nursetype@wowway. com <mailto:nursetype% 40wowway. com> >
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 8:38:11 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions

FYI.. you CAN have ONE male betta in a peaceful community tank. I have ONE
male in every tank I own, except for the aggressive 90g tank (he would be
eaten as a appetizer).

My bettas in all my community tanks do well... as long as there aren't any
tail nippers in the bunch.

Wendy

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@.. .>
wrote:
>
> Thank you for this informative note! I'm midway thru cycling a new
29 gal
> tank - and am at the fun part of trying to decide what to put in
it
:) I
> bought a male Betta last week and fell in love with him. I've
learned that
> males can't be put into a community tank, but, haven't read much
about
> females. I don't want to have a species specific tank. I want a
nice
> looking, happy, healthy community tank.
>
> Any more bits of wisdom you can offer or websites you can point
me,
I'd love
> to read!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cynthia brennemann" <brennewoman@ ...>
> To: <AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:52 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: betta questions
>
>
> Yes, and no. Female bettas can be as mean and territorial as
males, or
> even meaner if they do not get proper socialization when young.
Even
> well socialized females will spend some time establishing a
pecking
> order at first before they settle down into a nice community tank.
> They will need lots of hiding places and plants to get away from
each
> other from time to time. I currently have seven females in my 65
gallon
> tank, along with small tetras, cories, dainos, otoclinus, dwarf
african
> frogs, and glass shrimp. If there are other species in with them,
it
> tends to difuse the pecking situation among them as well. 3 to
five
> females is the most I would put in a 29 gallon tank, and I'd have
some
> small tetras, cories, something else in there to distract them
>
> The more lively and healthy a betta is, the more attractive they
are.
> I get mine from breeders from aquabid and have not yet been
> disappointed.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
________
Cheap talk?
Check out Yahoo! Messenger's low PC-to-Phone call rates.
http://voice. yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






____________________________________________________________________________________
The fish are biting.
Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing.
http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20934 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Ebay usually has them too. I bought one off of there a couple of years ago
for about ½ the going rate.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel



While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their main site
I just listed)is a reputable and pretty good website, their regular online
prices aren't nearly as low as many other sites. Now, when you get
something that is on sale or discontinued/clearance, then they have pretty
good prices... but most other sites also have sale and
discontinued/clearance items at much better prices. Shop around!

Check with http://www.BigAlsOnline.com and http://www.MarineDepot.com for
comparative pricing. Also, remember that http://www.PetsMart.com also has
their sale and clearance pages. Another thing about PetsMart is their local
stores will match their own internet pricing... at least mine does... so if
you need something right away, always check their internet prices first,
print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to 40% off the
shelf prices on many items this way. Petco's do not seem to have a policy
of matching their online prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 4:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel

just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from www.drsfosterandsmith.com you
will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think LFS sell them for
anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher end and at
drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on sale even regular
price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping is for it but there is no
way it will be $35 i just found out about this website a few months ago i
could of saved alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter in
> the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to do
> that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would probably
> up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really reply
> from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20935 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Thanks Lenny! I called to make sure Petsmart had an Emperor in and
she said $75. I told her online it was only $37. She said she heard
that online was cheaper some times. They lose. I am taking back the
Whisper and the Stealth heater and not replacing it with anything now!

I ordered with Drs. Foster.... did a comparison, and it was penny
for penny match....when you figured I ordered a Stealth heater too,
which gave me free shipping at Petsmart (over $50 purchase). The
heater was $37 in the store and 18 online at both Fosters and
Petsmart. Big savings online.

Big lesson learned! thanks everyone.

Patti M

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
> http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their
main site
> ....Another thing about PetsMart is their local
> stores will match their own internet pricing... at least mine
does... so if
> you need something right away, always check their internet prices
first,
> print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to 40%
off the
> shelf prices on many items this way.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20936 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Guide.net Thanks Wendy!
wow! this is great, thanks so much, I printed it out and figured it
is the must read best seller now at my house! hee!

Fabulous!

You all are great! thanks for all the help everyone....If I am quiet
now for the next "5-7" business days, until my order comes
in.....well, you will find me a reading! haa!

I wish, my day job is killing me, and the night job, helping Mom
remodel, has left me with nothing left......this too will pass, so I
hear! <smile>

I do have one more thing to ask....next thread

thanks
Patti M

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...>
wrote:
>
> I found this on the net. May help some members, seems to cover the
> basics, and more, look to the bottom of the page for really good
> advise and links..... for what its worth.
>
> http://www.firsttankguide.net/
>
> Wendy ;-)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20937 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
Think of it this way. You are sitting in a room, minding your own
business. Suddenly, someone turns off all the lights at once. How do you
feel? You probably would freak, at least a little. That is why your fish
act the way they do when you suddenly turn off their sun. Neons are
still imported from the wild in large numbers. They have not had
generations of breeding to breed the wild reflexes out of them. They
still have the instincts of a wild fish. Suddenly no light means danger,
and they react accordingly.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of micheal03us
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my neons are weird

I've been noticing lately that when i turn the light of the tank on in
the mornings after they get fed, all my neons seem to want to be in
one corner of the tank. The danio swims around the top back and forth
as content as can be and the couple of white clouds I have will
venture to other parts of the tank to look around. My plecos are
content they play with each other and hide in the same ornament
together which I think is neat.
But with the neons when i turn the light out they all kinda freak a
little but I guess that would be frightened fish syndrome even though
the room lighting gets decreased in the evening before the tank light
is turned off. But after they settle they seem to spread out more and
venture around the tank more.
Do neons not like bright tanks lights or is there something in the
tank they don't like that they see with the light on but can't see
with the light off? Or do I just have bunch of strange fish? Last
week two of the neons died right out of the blue, nothing was wrong
with them that I could tell. Fish are sure hard to figure out.
Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20938 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Do you mean that your local PetsMart would not match their online prices?
Did you ask them? My local store has a button on the cash register that
they hit and then put in the online price to make the adjustment. I never
"ask" them, I just bring printed pages when I go there. I wonder if you
spoke to someone who did not know any better?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!

Thanks Lenny! I called to make sure Petsmart had an Emperor in and she said
$75. I told her online it was only $37. She said she heard that online was
cheaper some times. They lose. I am taking back the Whisper and the
Stealth heater and not replacing it with anything now!

I ordered with Drs. Foster.... did a comparison, and it was penny
for penny match....when you figured I ordered a Stealth heater too, which
gave me free shipping at Petsmart (over $50 purchase). The heater was $37
in the store and 18 online at both Fosters and Petsmart. Big savings
online.

Big lesson learned! thanks everyone.

Patti M

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
> http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their
main site
> ....Another thing about PetsMart is their local stores will match
> their own internet pricing... at least mine
does... so if
> you need something right away, always check their internet prices
first,
> print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to 40%
off the
> shelf prices on many items this way.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20939 From: Izabela Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: OT - Just a plea
YES PEOPLE PLEEEEASE TRY, REALLY TRY TO DELETE ALL THAT JUNK. THANKS!

Izabela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20940 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks Steve!
Hi, I did speak to someone that didn't know better obviously, she
didn't say I could have the price I told her was online price. I
hadn't read your post yet, when I called them.

They lost. I am getting full refunds tomorrow and waiting now,
because it takes 5-7 business days to get the Foster shipment.

Patti

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Do you mean that your local PetsMart would not match their online
prices?
> Did you ask them? My local store has a button on the cash register
that
> they hit and then put in the online price to make the adjustment.
I never
> "ask" them, I just bring printed pages when I go there. I wonder
if you
> spoke to someone who did not know any better?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Patti M
> Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 8:05 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor Thanks
Steve!
>
> Thanks Lenny! I called to make sure Petsmart had an Emperor in and
she said
> $75. I told her online it was only $37. She said she heard that
online was
> cheaper some times. They lose. I am taking back the Whisper and
the
> Stealth heater and not replacing it with anything now!
>
> I ordered with Drs. Foster.... did a comparison, and it was penny
> for penny match....when you figured I ordered a Stealth heater too,
which
> gave me free shipping at Petsmart (over $50 purchase). The heater
was $37
> in the store and 18 online at both Fosters and Petsmart. Big
savings
> online.
>
> Big lesson learned! thanks everyone.
>
> Patti M
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > While http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com (they also have
> > http://www.DrsFosterAndSmith.com as a site that redirects to their
> main site
> > ....Another thing about PetsMart is their local stores will match
> > their own internet pricing... at least mine
> does... so if
> > you need something right away, always check their internet prices
> first,
> > print the page and then go to the store. I usually save 20% to
40%
> off the
> > shelf prices on many items this way.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20941 From: Patti M Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 40
Hi Donna. Yep, I know........ I should have gone with a canister,
but my brain is so overwhelmed at work and in personal life, I
decided to not put my power filter in the tank night before last
because I coudn't get thru the directions on washing this and putting
this there......I guess it is a stress thing right now (I hope!) so
we will be off and running with the Bio-Wheel "HOB", right aquatic
lingo? <grin>

I went without the UGF too, same deal, just too much and the petstore
said a good bio wheel or power filter would do the job.

I sure hope I get to see bala sharks here soon!

Patti


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, I don't want to overwhelm you more, but here is my 2 cents. I
have a
> Eheim Ecco for 90 gallon tank. I do prefer canisters over power
filters
> (have both, all power filters are now retired, too noisy). I also
have a
> smaller Ecco on another tank. I would buy again.
>
>
>
> I would not do UGF, but only because in my reading it seemed to
imply they
> were state-of-the-art years ago and now there are better options.
No
> personal experience.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20942 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Patti,

What size is your tank? You need a really BIG tank for Bala Sharks.

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Balantiocheilus_melanopterus.html shows
that they grow to 16" long and should be in a 100G+ LOONNNGGGG tank since
they are big swimmers.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Choice.......Eheim Ecco 2234 or Emperor
400 Bio-Wheel

Hi Donna. Yep, I know........ I should have gone with a canister, but my
brain is so overwhelmed at work and in personal life, I decided to not put
my power filter in the tank night before last because I coudn't get thru the
directions on washing this and putting this there......I guess it is a
stress thing right now (I hope!) so we will be off and running with the
Bio-Wheel "HOB", right aquatic lingo? <grin>

I went without the UGF too, same deal, just too much and the petstore said a
good bio wheel or power filter would do the job.

I sure hope I get to see bala sharks here soon!

Patti


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, I don't want to overwhelm you more, but here is my 2 cents. I
have a
> Eheim Ecco for 90 gallon tank. I do prefer canisters over power
filters
> (have both, all power filters are now retired, too noisy). I also
have a
> smaller Ecco on another tank. I would buy again.
>
>
>
> I would not do UGF, but only because in my reading it seemed to
imply they
> were state-of-the-art years ago and now there are better options.
No
> personal experience.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20943 From: Hanson Choa Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: how to breed a black ghost fish?
anyone knows how to breed a black ghost fish? pls share your experience.thank you!


---------------------------------
Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20944 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Emperor 400
I think that's a great choice. I have a 75 and 110 saltwater and a 29, 39 gallon fresh and a 12G Nano salt. On the two largest tanks we have the emperors (the largest ones-Is that the 400?). On the 75 I have the big emperor that is SEVERAL years old and a large whisper filter and a skilter. On the 110, which is my husband's I think he has two emperors. They work great, last forever, and are easy to maintain. I also purchased at least one from Fosters and smith (which also has great items for my iguana, dogs, and bird). I got the other one at a super price on ebay. You've made a great choice.
Amanda Jones
Bama
________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20945 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions
I do not remove my cories for breeding...not sure about the loach. Try
it with the loach, and if he causes problems, remove him.

And my angels always did fine with my betta. I always had a pair of
angels, that would get huge...and they never bothered my bettas at all.

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20946 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: betta questions - Wendy
IF she told you that, she doesn't know what she's talking about.
Plastic plants are inferior to real in every single way, other than,
perhaps, durability. They can slice a bettas fins to ribbons, they are
ugly, and they do nothing to remove toxins from the water. A live
plant can be a playground for a betta, and will harbor infusoria for
the fry. Fake plants will not, and will eventually fade, tatter, and
collect icky coatings.

Here's a sample. In a twenty gallon tank holding five panda cories,
five glass shrimp, a mystery snail, two adult bettas (male and female,
they get along so I don't seperate them) and their growing fry, I
haven't changed the water for two weeks now, and tend to overfeed my
fish a bit. When I tested it today, the nitrites are 0, the nitrates
are 10, the ammonia is 0. Try that with an unplanted tank.

>I asked about planting the tank and she told me the plastic plants
were as good or better than the live plants. Not knowing anything
about the plantings, I'm not confused about that unless I find out
different info.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20947 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/14/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
When I need a lid, instead of buying one, I buy a sheet of clear poly
and cut it to fit. A simple clear poly tape hinge makes it easy to
lift, more light gets through than with the black lids, and it's
cheap and easy to fit exactly the way I want.


> Ok so a few months ago I posted an inquiry about getting a new lid
for my
> tank being that my cracked on both sides there for I cant lift it
up to clean as
> it falls into the water.. what a joy this is let me tell you cause
I have to
> have someone come help me do water changes which is even more
drama than the
> water changes themselves.. So I finally am able to afford a new
lid and I
> find one at petsmart that isn't too crappy cause believe me their
selection
> left nothing to be desired.. I get home and realize that they
have changed the
> back of the lid so that I have to change the position of my filter
and switch
> it with my heater which means do to my live plants I am going to
have to
> move them as well or 2 of them will end up in the filter.. NOT
HAPPY, so I
> decide to go to a few other local stores and petco only to find
the same dang
> problem.. so why is it that they have done this.. Its going to be
so much work
> just to have a new lid... Anyone have a clue??? Shannon
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20948 From: mandyhorsley_2000 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: New pics
Hi everyone,
I just posted a few new pictures that I took over the weekend from my
salt tanks, I see the last ones must have been enjoyed because to my
surprise, my picasso trigger's mugshot is now the default picture for
this group. Let me know what you think,
Amanda Jones
Bama
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20949 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
so where do I put the light strip then... just like set it on there.. my
only thought with this is that it might be super hard to see when cleaning out
my tank cause its so high and I am so short that I have to have the lid propped
up so much to be able to clean my tank.. but I would so love a new
alternative.. thanks Shannon




When I need a lid, instead of buying one, I buy a sheet of clear poly
and cut it to fit. A simple clear poly tape hinge makes it easy to
lift, more light gets through than with the black lids, and it's
cheap and easy to fit exactly the way I want.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20950 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Yes, you can save a lot of money buying things online. However, if it is
available at your local mom and pop fish store, I'd recommend giving the
business to them, especially if they are good stores. Why? If you are
doing your business with them, they are right there available for help,
to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice on the
hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or go
to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for you.
They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium you pay
for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long run.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel

just 1 other thing i would do is buy it from
www.drsfosterandsmith.com
you will pay alot less then at a LFS almost half i think
LFS sell them for anywhere between $70 the low end and $90 the higher
end and at drsfosterandsmith i think they have it for $37.59 now on
sale even regular price is about $46 i m not sure how much shipping
is for it but there is no way it will be $35
i just found out about this website a few months ago i could of saved
alot of money if i would of found them about 3 years ago



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hi again. Okay, after a visit to the pet shop, I have decided to
just go with the Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel.
>
> Has anyone had any significant problems with theirs?
>
> Thanks
> Patti M
>
> Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
> Oh boy, the more I read the more over whelmed I get, hee!
I just
> got my 55 gallon tank set up and now have to drain some and take
out
> stuff and put in the UGF, and figure out how those work.
>
> Then I am reading and I am going to trade in my Whisper 60 gallon
> power filter, for at least the Emporer 400. I haven't put my filter
> in the water yet. Now I am reading that if I can get a canister to
> do that instead.
>
> This EHEIM looks good for a 55 gallon tank, actually, I would
> probably up to the one for 80 gallons even.
>
> What do you think.......I just want easy to keep and clean aquarium
> and healthy fish.
>
> Thanks in advance. I have to go home and read, I cannot really
> reply from work much.
>
> Patti M
> Denton/Dallas area
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20951 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Engineers trying to justify their existence?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of SaraRamirezRocks@...
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 6:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank lids

Ok so a few months ago I posted an inquiry about getting a new lid for
my
tank being that my cracked on both sides there for I cant lift it up to
clean as
it falls into the water.. what a joy this is let me tell you cause I
have to
have someone come help me do water changes which is even more drama
than the
water changes themselves.. So I finally am able to afford a new lid and
I
find one at petsmart that isn't too crappy cause believe me their
selection
left nothing to be desired.. I get home and realize that they have
changed the
back of the lid so that I have to change the position of my filter and
switch
it with my heater which means do to my live plants I am going to have
to
move them as well or 2 of them will end up in the filter.. NOT HAPPY,
so I
decide to go to a few other local stores and petco only to find the
same dang
problem.. so why is it that they have done this.. Its going to be so
much work
just to have a new lid... Anyone have a clue??? Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20952 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: how to breed a black ghost fish?
I have not heard of any reports of them breeding in the hobby. Not to
say it has not happened, just that I have not seen anything on it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Hanson Choa
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 9:50 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how to breed a black ghost fish?

anyone knows how to breed a black ghost fish? pls share your
experience.thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20953 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Exactly.

There may come a time when your fish are sick and you need medication for
them. You can get the the medicine from the mom and pop LFS, but you may need a
week to get it online. Or as in my case, a tank cracks, leaks out most of the
water and I am out of the Chlorine/Chloramine remover. The LFS saved my fish.

In a message dated 2/15/2007 2:46:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
steve@... writes:
Why? If you are
doing your business with them, they are right there available for help,
to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice on the
hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or go
to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for you.
They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium you pay
for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long run.

\\Steve//


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20954 From: snerticus Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: OT - Just a plea
LOL Lenny, I was actually going to post something about this and
paste what you did in my message. I was hoping that someone else
would do it first, which you did.

Getting the daily digest has more than one drawback, and this is only
one, but it can be a royal pain sometimes. Thankfully it doesn't
happen all that much. Other problems I see with the daily digest
are: - you get more than one digest a day, sometimes three or four; -
the digests do NOT come in order and when you read a topic that has
RE: in front of it and what seems to be a cryptic message, you have
to go back to the home page and try to find the original; and lastly -
they sometimes don't get to you in a timely manner and days will go
by during which time a whole conversation has begun and ended and you
really wanted to respond to the original message.

Anyone else have peeves about it?

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> I just switched back to the individual messages, instead of the
Daily
> Digest, primarily because some of the replies are not
being "edited" to
> remove all of the "junk" that is automatically added by the new
Yahoo Group
> features.
> Below my signature, is what followed several recent messages in a
Daily
> Digest. I, and I'm sure others, are getting Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
from
> having to scroll through this 2-3 pages of gibberish. Please,
please,
> "edit" the junk in your emails, under the original email, before
hitting the
> "Send" button... for the sake of people on the Daily Digest and for
people
> that still pay for internet access time (not everyone in the world
has
> access to unlimited high speed internet access).
> Thanks a million.
> Lenny V.
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20955 From: hank voss Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Well said Steve!! Thats why nowadays there are so few actualFISH STORES left.
Hank

=============================

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Yes, you can save a lot of money buying things online. However, if it is
available at your local mom and pop fish store, I'd recommend giving the
business to them, especially if they are good stores. Why? If you are
doing your business with them, they are right there available for help,
to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice on the
hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or go
to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for you.
They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium you pay
for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long run.

\\Steve//
-----












---------------------------------
Need Mail bonding?
Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20956 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
while i agree with that buy stuff at LFS can be instant help like if
your tank leaks and you need a temporary home for your fish that is a
big plus but the problem i have is none of the LFS here will do that
especially the 1 i go to mostly (they r affraid of your fish having
diseases and contaminating the rest of the tanks)so they will not
take them in while i still buy my fish from the LFS and also foods
and other small items like that i really don t have that advantage of
being there if my tank cracks and as far as medication goes most
chains (petco, petsmart, pet supplies plus) carry a large variety of
medications and usually cheaper then mom and pop or LFS all i do is
pick up the phone and call DRS foster and smith to find out what med.
i would need they have a great staff there on hand if the person that
answers the phone doesn t know the answer they will get someone who
does they have a large staff on duty it seems like all of the time
i guess what i am saying is sure the LFS are good for a few things i
just think it is more advantagous to buy equipment online at half
price and then have more money for the actually fish that you can buy
at the LFS
but i have never brought a fish from www.liveaquaria.com i guess they
are in connection with drs foster and smith i think they offer a
great deal on fish they give you a 14 day warranty on all there fish
the LFS i deal with most of the time says once the fish is gone it s
to bad for you for the saltwater fish your loss and for freshwater
fish i think they give you 1 day and will give you 80% credit and 2
days 70% credit or something crazy like that but you also need to
bring in samples of your water and it s not 100 what they say water
should be i don t think you get anything (other words they don t back
there fish i guess)

maybe the LFS around where i live at just plain suck lol and that is
why i choose Drs Foster and Smith or other online stores they just
seem to be the most reputable ones
but like i said i still go there on a regular basis but it is mostly
to purchase smaller items like food maybe filter media and the
occasional fish but maybe not even fish anymore since i found that
liveaquaria.com i might try them out i mean around where i live you
can t beat a 14 day warranty on fish
i know i m just babbaling here or whatever lol but it is just my
opinion that if online stores offer better priced products and better
service then the LFS then the online stores deserve your business
same goes for any product out there
for instance tires i have recently brought tires from
www.discounttiresdirect.com for a set of 4 tires for less then $300
and paid my friends dad $10 per tire to mount and balance each tire
so all in all it was under $340 dollars and that includes road hazard
they send me a new tire next day no questions asked free of charge
and no pro rating the tire either they just go by the honor system
hoping you won t run the tire down to nothing then call up and say
you got a nail in your tire and needs replace
while $340 seems like alot for tires all the local tire shop i mean
every one of them told me my tire size was a rare size and the
cheapest i found out of approximatly 10-15 stores was about $500 and
while some of the tires were the same model that i purchased online
they were closer to the $550 price while the $500 were a cheaper tire
or a no name tire it still saved me about 200 dollars on tires (he he
he more money for fish he he he) and i would say it is alot better
service at the online stores cause there was no pressure selling and
they had a large choice of tires and also customer reviews of tires
of actually people who actually had the tires on there cars and then
the local tire dealer they usually had just 1 or 2 tires for my size
tire and they were buying them from the same place i brought my tires
anyways i was just cutting out the middle man i guess and the only
opinion i got about the tires from the local stores was the people
that worked there that probably don t even or never had the tire on
there cars
sorry for more babbaling here i m just bored lol
so to end this post i will say local stores are good for the small
things like food or get your tires balanced or just whatever service
they offer
but i would not knock the services of online stores just because you
aren t face to face with the customer service rep.
infact i feel they are far superior in service and in choices of
product then local stores but just my opinion

AGAIN JUST MY OPINION AND MAYBE IF LOCAL STORES TRAINED THERE STAFF
MORE AND PAID THEM BETTER THAN MIN. WAGE TO GIVE A CRAP YOU MIGHT GET
BETTER SERVICE LOL

SORRY IF ANY OF YOU OUT THERE ARE STORE OWNERS BUT IT IS TRUE IF YOU
WOULDN T CARE SO MUCH ABOUT THE SIZE OF YOUR HOUSE HAVE A 5000 SQ FT
HOUSE INSTEAD OF A 3500 SQ FT HOUSE AND HAVING A CORVETTE INSTEAD OF
A FERRARI AND OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS BETTER SERVICES AT A LITTLE
CHEAPER PRICE MAYBE SO MANY PEOPLE WOULDN T BE TURNING TO ONLINE
STORES IF YOU DON T BELIEVE THAT THEN EXPLAIN WHY SO MANY STORES ARE
DOWN IN SALES

lol more babbaling hope not to offend to many of you out there since
this is a good group here i m just cranky today with my runny nose
and puffy eye


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> Well said Steve!! Thats why nowadays there are so few actualFISH
STORES left.
> Hank
>
> =============================
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
> Yes, you can save a lot of money buying things online.
However, if it is
> available at your local mom and pop fish store, I'd recommend
giving the
> business to them, especially if they are good stores. Why? If you
are
> doing your business with them, they are right there available for
help,
> to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice
on the
> hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or
go
> to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for
you.
> They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium
you pay
> for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long
run.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20957 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......(LFS & Online discussion) Decided Emperor 400 Bio-
Ehh.. I agree with steve.

My LFS I buy the livestock, some food items, conditioners, bulbs,
brushes or parts. Big ticket items like canister filters etc... are
just way too lower priced on the internet.

But tanks and stands, I buy local. It is the one big ticket item I do
buy at my LFS/LPS.

However.. I have one LFS store that I got to know the head of the
aquatic dept. SHe gives me excellent advise, reputable.. and she
gives me credit for my baby snails, and fry I sell her. Works out
good. though.. that LFS is the ONLY store that will do it for me. If
I buy local.. I go through her and her smaller pet/aquatic store.

Like Steve said.. all the other ones are scared some wierd disease
may infect all their livestock. Which is a bummer. My bettas are
twice as healthy as those they get from asia or where ever.... (I
breed them for fun). But... I just sell or trade them at my local
fish enthusiasts group, if the LFS I have has no need for them.

Ehh... what to do.. to each his own I guess.

Wen



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> while i agree with that buy stuff at LFS can be instant help like if
> your tank leaks and you need a temporary home for your fish that is a
> big plus but the problem i have is none of the LFS here will do that
> especially the 1 i go to mostly (they r affraid of your fish having
> diseases and contaminating the rest of the tanks)so they will not
> take them in while i still buy my fish from the LFS and also foods
> and other small items like that i really don t have that advantage of
> being there if my tank cracks and as far as medication goes most
> chains (petco, petsmart, pet supplies plus) carry a large variety of
> medications and usually cheaper then mom and pop or LFS all i do is
> pick up the phone and call DRS foster and smith to find out what med.
> i would need they have a great staff there on hand if the person that
> answers the phone doesn t know the answer they will get someone who
> does they have a large staff on duty it seems like all of the time
> i guess what i am saying is sure the LFS are good for a few things i
> just think it is more advantagous to buy equipment online at half
> price and then have more money for the actually fish that you can buy
> at the LFS
> but i have never brought a fish from www.liveaquaria.com i guess they
> are in connection with drs foster and smith i think they offer a
> great deal on fish they give you a 14 day warranty on all there fish
> the LFS i deal with most of the time says once the fish is gone it s
> to bad for you for the saltwater fish your loss and for freshwater
> fish i think they give you 1 day and will give you 80% credit and 2
> days 70% credit or something crazy like that but you also need to
> bring in samples of your water and it s not 100 what they say water
> should be i don t think you get anything (other words they don t back
> there fish i guess)
>
> maybe the LFS around where i live at just plain suck lol and that is
> why i choose Drs Foster and Smith or other online stores they just
> seem to be the most reputable ones
> but like i said i still go there on a regular basis but it is mostly
> to purchase smaller items like food maybe filter media and the
> occasional fish but maybe not even fish anymore since i found that
> liveaquaria.com i might try them out i mean around where i live you
> can t beat a 14 day warranty on fish
> i know i m just babbaling here or whatever lol but it is just my
> opinion that if online stores offer better priced products and better
> service then the LFS then the online stores deserve your business
> same goes for any product out there
> for instance tires i have recently brought tires from
> www.discounttiresdirect.com for a set of 4 tires for less then $300
> and paid my friends dad $10 per tire to mount and balance each tire
> so all in all it was under $340 dollars and that includes road hazard
> they send me a new tire next day no questions asked free of charge
> and no pro rating the tire either they just go by the honor system
> hoping you won t run the tire down to nothing then call up and say
> you got a nail in your tire and needs replace
> while $340 seems like alot for tires all the local tire shop i mean
> every one of them told me my tire size was a rare size and the
> cheapest i found out of approximatly 10-15 stores was about $500 and
> while some of the tires were the same model that i purchased online
> they were closer to the $550 price while the $500 were a cheaper tire
> or a no name tire it still saved me about 200 dollars on tires (he he
> he more money for fish he he he) and i would say it is alot better
> service at the online stores cause there was no pressure selling and
> they had a large choice of tires and also customer reviews of tires
> of actually people who actually had the tires on there cars and then
> the local tire dealer they usually had just 1 or 2 tires for my size
> tire and they were buying them from the same place i brought my tires
> anyways i was just cutting out the middle man i guess and the only
> opinion i got about the tires from the local stores was the people
> that worked there that probably don t even or never had the tire on
> there cars
> sorry for more babbaling here i m just bored lol
> so to end this post i will say local stores are good for the small
> things like food or get your tires balanced or just whatever service
> they offer
> but i would not knock the services of online stores just because you
> aren t face to face with the customer service rep.
> infact i feel they are far superior in service and in choices of
> product then local stores but just my opinion
>
> AGAIN JUST MY OPINION AND MAYBE IF LOCAL STORES TRAINED THERE STAFF
> MORE AND PAID THEM BETTER THAN MIN. WAGE TO GIVE A CRAP YOU MIGHT GET
> BETTER SERVICE LOL
>
> SORRY IF ANY OF YOU OUT THERE ARE STORE OWNERS BUT IT IS TRUE IF YOU
> WOULDN T CARE SO MUCH ABOUT THE SIZE OF YOUR HOUSE HAVE A 5000 SQ FT
> HOUSE INSTEAD OF A 3500 SQ FT HOUSE AND HAVING A CORVETTE INSTEAD OF
> A FERRARI AND OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS BETTER SERVICES AT A LITTLE
> CHEAPER PRICE MAYBE SO MANY PEOPLE WOULDN T BE TURNING TO ONLINE
> STORES IF YOU DON T BELIEVE THAT THEN EXPLAIN WHY SO MANY STORES ARE
> DOWN IN SALES
>
> lol more babbaling hope not to offend to many of you out there since
> this is a good group here i m just cranky today with my runny nose
> and puffy eye
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, hank voss <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > Well said Steve!! Thats why nowadays there are so few actualFISH
> STORES left.
> > Hank
> >
> > =============================
> >
> > Steve Szabo <steve@> wrote:
> > Yes, you can save a lot of money buying things online.
> However, if it is
> > available at your local mom and pop fish store, I'd recommend
> giving the
> > business to them, especially if they are good stores. Why? If you
> are
> > doing your business with them, they are right there available for
> help,
> > to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice
> on the
> > hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or
> go
> > to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for
> you.
> > They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium
> you pay
> > for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long
> run.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Need Mail bonding?
> > Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20958 From: jett07002 Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
This is, unfortunately, a very true scenario. Steve S. and Deenerz are
telling true. The mom and pops can't possibly keep up with the big
guys like PetSmart, etc. They buy in huge bulk and get the equipment
and stock at really, really low. the LFS can't buy like this. When I
was helping at my old friends place he had all but given up on a lot of
equipment. BUT!! We had all the places around over the barrel when it
came to fish! I won't tell that story again. Don't want to bore you.
LOL But, please, unless you're going to save real big time for an
item, support the LFS.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Exactly.
>
> There may come a time when your fish are sick and you need medication
for
> them. You can get the the medicine from the mom and pop LFS, but you
may need a
> week to get it online. Or as in my case, a tank cracks, leaks out
most of the
> water and I am out of the Chlorine/Chloramine remover. The LFS saved
my fish.
>
> In a message dated 2/15/2007 2:46:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> steve@... writes:
> Why? If you are
> doing your business with them, they are right there available for
help,
> to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice on
the
> hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or go
> to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for you.
> They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium you
pay
> for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long run.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20959 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: tropical (ich?) treatment
I have two bettas I bought for a $1 something at a local petstore that
I normally don't like their health standards for. What was I thinking.

I have 2 crowntail Betta's; both are in their seperate 2 gallon
containers (without view of eachother , seperate rooms)

I run five fish tanks, I was and sterilize my hands after feeding each
thank or working on it...somehow (probably from the store) the bettas
both are developing what looks like SALT on their skin....pure common
sign of ich.

Both are becoming slower moving...Ive only had them for a week but
they have been more active BETTAS then anyone I have ever had. Lately
they are really slow and slow fan action. I did a 50% water change
today and I am going to go pick up some ich meds....I know Bettas are
normally more subitle to this then like my Tetras...

- what meds are best
- best treatment steps
- treatment to my tetras that dont have it yet, would that be bad? to
advoid it?

any input..

secondly the one betta just yesterday started getting this thing that
is on the base of his top fin, that looks like a white cloudy fungus
growing just like a peice of cotton sticking there. IS this possibly
ich too or a type of fungus.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20960 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
Cut the lid in half, lengthwise, then tape it back together with the
clear polytape. That makes a hinged section. Set the light strip
directly on the stationary section and lift the hinged bit.

> so where do I put the light strip then... just like set it on
there.. my
> only thought with this is that it might be super hard to see when
cleaning out
> my tank cause its so high and I am so short that I have to have the
lid propped
> up so much to be able to clean my tank.. but I would so love a new
> alternative.. thanks Shannon
>
>
>
>
> When I need a lid, instead of buying one, I buy a sheet of clear
poly
> and cut it to fit. A simple clear poly tape hinge makes it easy to
> lift, more light gets through than with the black lids, and it's
> cheap and easy to fit exactly the way I want.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20961 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: yahoo groups down time
Passing this along...it applies to ALL Yahoo Groups:

+++
Scheduled Groups Maintenance Thursday, February 15

Yahoo! Groups will undergo scheduled maintenance from about 10 p.m. to
4 a.m. (Pacific time) Thursday, February 15. Access to web messages
and email may be delayed during this time. Check the Yahoo! Groups
Team Blog for English-language updates:
_http://blog.http://blohttp://blog.http:_
(http://blog.360.yahoo.com/y_groups_team.)

We appreciate your patience during this maintenance. Regular upkeep of
our servers keeps Yahoo! Groups running smoothly for us all.

— The Yahoo! Groups Team
+++





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20962 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
great to see a topic worth discussion brought up by mostly me lol and
some rather harsh comments i made lol
but seriously i just realized i think today how much my LFS sucks it
s not cause of service though it is cause of lack of choice of
product i ll give you a few examples
at my LFS only carry
2 brand names of air pumps sorry i forgot the brands they were
1 style on hang on filter the emperor and the penguins which i
consider the same cause really they are the same
there for only carring 1 brand name of filter media and that is
marineland filter media
1 brand of heaters it seemed like all marineland heaters even though
marineland makes quite a few different models of heaters
they only had marineland
they also carry a very small choice of foods while the choices to me
are good choices it is only my opinion others might not like the
brand of fish food they carry
and for there water test kits they only had 1 type of saltwater and 1
reef test kit and no freshwater master kits
they do however carry the mardel s test strips that i use basically
cause it s 5 tests in 1 and it only takes 30-60 seconds to test but
as i am finding out on here some people are saying those are highly
inaccurate they do however sell individual kits that will test just 1
thing or another but buying each of those individual will cost you an
arm a leg and maybe a lung too

i completely support buying from a LFS but only if the prices are
fairly comparable meaning within a few bucks maybe 5 at the most but
when it comes to filters and other more expensive equipment where you
get it for half cost at local stores
i will however buy my tanks next time it comes

PS i just at the LFS and purchased rite size C single pack for my
penguin 170 then went to petco and purchased some cichlid food lol as
much as i rag on petco and other chains at least the girl there was
honest and didn t try to fake it she told me she didn t know the
answer to my question but that s ok i would rather someone tell me
they don t know then pretend they do and it ending up killing all my
fish

as Nelson from the Simpsons would say "smell ya later" lol



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> This is, unfortunately, a very true scenario. Steve S. and
Deenerz are
> telling true. The mom and pops can't possibly keep up with the
big
> guys like PetSmart, etc. They buy in huge bulk and get the
equipment
> and stock at really, really low. the LFS can't buy like this.
When I
> was helping at my old friends place he had all but given up on a
lot of
> equipment. BUT!! We had all the places around over the barrel
when it
> came to fish! I won't tell that story again. Don't want to bore
you.
> LOL But, please, unless you're going to save real big time
for an
> item, support the LFS.
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@ wrote:
> >
> > Exactly.
> >
> > There may come a time when your fish are sick and you need
medication
> for
> > them. You can get the the medicine from the mom and pop LFS, but
you
> may need a
> > week to get it online. Or as in my case, a tank cracks, leaks out
> most of the
> > water and I am out of the Chlorine/Chloramine remover. The LFS
saved
> my fish.
> >
> > In a message dated 2/15/2007 2:46:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > steve@ writes:
> > Why? If you are
> > doing your business with them, they are right there available for
> help,
> > to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice
on
> the
> > hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so,
or go
> > to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for
you.
> > They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium
you
> pay
> > for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long
run.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20963 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
grrr my last name also starts with an S
so we have 2 steve s's here lol oh well i guess i am just steve and
the other steve is steve s


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> great to see a topic worth discussion brought up by mostly me lol
and
> some rather harsh comments i made lol
> but seriously i just realized i think today how much my LFS sucks
it
> s not cause of service though it is cause of lack of choice of
> product i ll give you a few examples
> at my LFS only carry
> 2 brand names of air pumps sorry i forgot the brands they were
> 1 style on hang on filter the emperor and the penguins which i
> consider the same cause really they are the same
> there for only carring 1 brand name of filter media and that is
> marineland filter media
> 1 brand of heaters it seemed like all marineland heaters even
though
> marineland makes quite a few different models of heaters
> they only had marineland
> they also carry a very small choice of foods while the choices to
me
> are good choices it is only my opinion others might not like the
> brand of fish food they carry
> and for there water test kits they only had 1 type of saltwater and
1
> reef test kit and no freshwater master kits
> they do however carry the mardel s test strips that i use basically
> cause it s 5 tests in 1 and it only takes 30-60 seconds to test but
> as i am finding out on here some people are saying those are highly
> inaccurate they do however sell individual kits that will test just
1
> thing or another but buying each of those individual will cost you
an
> arm a leg and maybe a lung too
>
> i completely support buying from a LFS but only if the prices are
> fairly comparable meaning within a few bucks maybe 5 at the most
but
> when it comes to filters and other more expensive equipment where
you
> get it for half cost at local stores
> i will however buy my tanks next time it comes
>
> PS i just at the LFS and purchased rite size C single pack for my
> penguin 170 then went to petco and purchased some cichlid food lol
as
> much as i rag on petco and other chains at least the girl there was
> honest and didn t try to fake it she told me she didn t know the
> answer to my question but that s ok i would rather someone tell me
> they don t know then pretend they do and it ending up killing all
my
> fish
>
> as Nelson from the Simpsons would say "smell ya later" lol
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > This is, unfortunately, a very true scenario. Steve S. and
> Deenerz are
> > telling true. The mom and pops can't possibly keep up with
the
> big
> > guys like PetSmart, etc. They buy in huge bulk and get the
> equipment
> > and stock at really, really low. the LFS can't buy like this.
> When I
> > was helping at my old friends place he had all but given up on a
> lot of
> > equipment. BUT!! We had all the places around over the barrel
> when it
> > came to fish! I won't tell that story again. Don't want to
bore
> you.
> > LOL But, please, unless you're going to save real big time
> for an
> > item, support the LFS.
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@ wrote:
> > >
> > > Exactly.
> > >
> > > There may come a time when your fish are sick and you need
> medication
> > for
> > > them. You can get the the medicine from the mom and pop LFS,
but
> you
> > may need a
> > > week to get it online. Or as in my case, a tank cracks, leaks
out
> > most of the
> > > water and I am out of the Chlorine/Chloramine remover. The LFS
> saved
> > my fish.
> > >
> > > In a message dated 2/15/2007 2:46:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > steve@ writes:
> > > Why? If you are
> > > doing your business with them, they are right there available
for
> > help,
> > > to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish,
advice
> on
> > the
> > > hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do
so,
> or go
> > > to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there
for
> you.
> > > They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The
premium
> you
> > pay
> > > for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the
long
> run.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20964 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Hi Steve.

I understand what you mean. I do try and give the LFS as much business as I can. There are somethings I do buy online. I also get a fair amount of stuff at aquarium societies I belong to. The Aquariums Societies I am in try to foster good relations with the LFS stores and encourage people to shop at them and the stores support us with donations. Some stores are adamantly against aquarium socieities and think of them as competition. Too bad as I have seen where clubs and stores complement each other.

There are a couple LFS's that I will not shop at because of a couple bad experiences and there are a couple that were excellent stores that closed recently. Wish I could pick and choose who stayed open by there quality but we know that isn't happening.

As for the shop that is too scared to bring in fish for fear of contamination, I can see that as a good thing and a bad thing. On one hand there can be less chance of catching something from the shop and introducing it to your fish room. On the other hand they won't buy your fish. There is a shop about 20 miles from me that quarantines everything before they even put it out on the floor for sales. I have a lot of confidence in that store. I pay more but I know they have taken the time to quarantine.

I just found out a few days ago that an excellent store a half hour from me closed. The owner is going to continue business out of his home instead of a brick and mortar store. I guess it is hard to compete with online places. Great guy, he was always ordering uncommon fish that the chain stores would not even dream of getting. Excellent advice, learned a lot from him and his staff.

As for online tires, I have done the same, on my third set of tires that way. Prolem now is the retailers that mount your tires make their money on the mounting and balancing. CostCo used to mount tires fairly cheap, but they use the airguns on your car at about two to three times the maximum torque rating for the lugnuts and strip out your lugs and leave you stranded on the side of the road with a broken tire iron. Even when I instruct them to not use the air gun I catch them using them anyway. To get around this I used to bring my tires in with the rims and have them mounted. Now CostCo has a policy that they have have the car their to do that. Pain in the butt. They as well as other tire shops have rasied the cost of mounting and balancing a tire to $20 or more dollars per tire! So I have to add an additional $80.00 to a $100.00 and tax to get my online tires mounted. My father owns an older style tire balancer and I see on ebay(yes online) that you can get the older kind of manual tire mounting hardware. Hard work to manually mount tires. I used to mount tires this way for a race team 20 years ago. So a little additional investment and I can mount my own. But then again, when I am in need of a tire being fixed on a long trip, I hope the local tire shops are still in business :)

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: steve01@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 7:45 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel


they r affraid of your fish having
diseases and contaminating the rest of the tanks)so they will not
take them in while i still buy my fish from the LFS and also foods
and other small items like that i really don t have that advantage of
being there if my tank cracks and as far as medication goes most
chains (petco, petsmart, pet supplies plus) carry a large variety of
medications and usually cheaper then mom and pop or LFS all i do is
pick up the phone and call DRS foster and smith to find out what med.
i would need they have a great staff there on hand if the person that
answers the phone doesn t know the answer they will get someone who
does they have a large staff on duty it seems like all of the time
i guess what i am saying is sure the LFS are good for a few things i
just think it is more advantagous to buy equipment online at half

maybe the LFS around where i live at just plain suck lol and that is
why i choose Drs Foster and Smith or other online stores they just
seem to be the most reputable ones
but like i said i still go there on a regular basis but it is mostly
to purchase smaller items like food maybe filter media and the
occasional fish but maybe not even fish anymore since i found that
liveaquaria.com i might try them out i mean around where i live you
can t beat a 14 day warranty on fish
i know i m just babbaling here or whatever lol but it is just my
opinion that if online stores offer better priced products and better
service then the LFS then the online stores deserve your business
same goes for any product out there
for instance tires i have recently brought tires from
www.discounttiresdirect.com for a set of 4 tires for less then $300
and paid my friends dad $10 per tire to mount and balance each tire
so all in all it was under $340 dollars and that includes road hazard
they send me a new tire next day no questions asked free of charge
and no pro rating the tire either they just go by the honor system
hoping you won t run the tire down to nothing then call up and say
you got a nail in your tire and needs replace
while $340 seems like alot for tires all the local tire shop i mean
every one of them told me my tire size was a rare size and the
cheapest i found out of approximatly 10-15 stores was about $500 and
while some of the tires were the same model that i purchased online
they were closer to the $550 price while the $500 were a cheaper tire
or a no name tire it still saved me about 200 dollars on tires (he he
he more money for fish he he he) and i would say it is alot better
service at the online stores cause there was no pressure selling and
they had a large choice of tires and also customer reviews of tires
of actually people who actually had the tires on there cars and then
the local tire dealer they usually had just 1 or 2 tires for my size
tire and they were buying them from the same place i brought my tires
anyways i was just cutting out the middle man i guess and the only
opinion i got about the tires from the local stores was the people
that worked there that probably don t even or never had the tire on
there cars
sorry for more babbaling here i m just bored lol
so to end this post i will say local stores are good for the small
things like food or get your tires balanced or just whatever service
they offer
but i would not knock the services of online stores just because you
aren t face to face with the customer service rep.
infact i feel they are far superior in service and in choices of
product then local stores but just my opinion

AGAIN JUST MY OPINION AND MAYBE IF LOCAL STORES TRAINED THERE STAFF
MORE AND PAID THEM BETTER THAN MIN. WAGE TO GIVE A CRAP YOU MIGHT GET
BETTER SERVICE LOL
.

________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20965 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: yahoo groups down time
I don't know why it took it 3 days to get here but its kinda late now..
Shannon








Passing this along...it applies to ALL Yahoo Groups:

+++
Scheduled Groups Maintenance Thursday, February 15

Yahoo! Groups will undergo scheduled maintenance from about 10 p.m. to
4 a.m. (Pacific time) Thursday, February 15. Access to web messages
and email may be delayed during this time. Check the Yahoo! Groups
Team Blog for English-language updates:
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(http://blog.http//blohttp://blog.http:_)
(_http://blog.http://blohttp://blog.http:_
(http://blog.360.yahoo.com/y_groups_team.) )

We appreciate your patience during this maintenance. Regular upkeep of
our servers keeps Yahoo! Groups running smoothly for us all.

— The Yahoo! Groups Team








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20966 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Hello everyone! My name is Gayle and I live in the US, New Hampshire. I've
had tanks in the past but recently set up two tanks after almost 10 years.
I need some advice about the Flower Horn.....

I found a large (adult?) female Flower Horn as well as quite a few smaller
ones. I have a 30 gallon tank and I'm wondering if it is too small for a
single adult? I also have a 75 gallon tank but that is occupied by 4 angel
fish, 4 gouramis, 5 mollies, a bushy nose pleco and a black ghost. I would
LOVE to get this adult female if I can. If the 30 gallon is too small for
her, then what would be the smallest size (but suitable) for her? I thought
of rehoming some of my fish and giving her the 75 gallon but not sure if I
want to do that. My mom has a 55 gallon tank that she is not using and I
could set that up for her, but space is a problem then....I don't really
have the space for that size tank.

Thanks for any ideas/advice!
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20967 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Just go by Steve01 like your email. The other well known, long-time member,
Steve S uses his "signature" signature with the \\Steve// so I don't think
we'll get too confused. Who knows, maybe \\Steve// will get the blame if
you do something wrong! :-D

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 2:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel

grrr my last name also starts with an S so we have 2 steve s's here lol oh
well i guess i am just steve and the other steve is steve s
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20968 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
ok I think I get it lol so what is poly tape if I go into home depot are
they going to be able to help me out with this lid and tape lol Shannon




Cut the lid in half, lengthwise, then tape it back together with the
clear polytape. That makes a hinged section. Set the light strip
directly on the stationary section and lift the hinged bit.








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20969 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
http://fish.mongabay.com/flowerhorn.htm says they get to 12" so I think your
30G is out of the question unless only a temporary home to avoid stunting.
Something in the range of 6' long would probably be needed for long term
health as it gets bigger. If you Google "flowerhorn" as one word, you will
find many specialty sites on this hybrid cichlid.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 6:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids

Hello everyone! My name is Gayle and I live in the US, New Hampshire. I've
had tanks in the past but recently set up two tanks after almost 10 years.
I need some advice about the Flower Horn.....

I found a large (adult?) female Flower Horn as well as quite a few smaller
ones. I have a 30 gallon tank and I'm wondering if it is too small for a
single adult? I also have a 75 gallon tank but that is occupied by 4 angel
fish, 4 gouramis, 5 mollies, a bushy nose pleco and a black ghost. I would
LOVE to get this adult female if I can. If the 30 gallon is too small for
her, then what would be the smallest size (but suitable) for her? I thought
of rehoming some of my fish and giving her the 75 gallon but not sure if I
want to do that. My mom has a 55 gallon tank that she is not using and I
could set that up for her, but space is a problem then....I don't really
have the space for that size tank.

Thanks for any ideas/advice!
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20970 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
Steve,

Replying to two of your messages here. First, the keeping of your fish in case of an emergency. I'd not rely on a LFS to do so, except in a case of last resort. This is where you get your friends to step in and lend a hand. If I had such a disaster, I'd only have to make, at most, 2 calls, and help would be on its way and I can spend time bagging fish and not having to worry about the care they would receive. I have also been on the helping side of the coin, and was more than glad to help out.

I'm not big on medications, preferring to use the old salt, water changes and/or heat methods, which will suffice for a cure in probably 90% of cases. If I am sure exactly what the fish are suffering from, and a medication is, indeed, indicated, I'll shop around for the particular medication I need, and run the full course of treatment with it. If the LFS does not carry what I need, then I'll go so far as to ask a vet to write me out a prescription for it, and get it at a local drug store (you really do need to know a vet in this case--I know a few well enough that I do not even get a question, they just write what I may need). Abuse of this trust would be criminal, though, so it is fairly easy for me to get it since I ask so rarely.

In a case like this, I do not mind by-passing the LFS. Another case is with test kits. All test kits have an expiration. If they are not sold fast enough, the shop owner loses money because the kit has expired. You cannot and should not expect a small operation like an LFS to carry a big inventory of test kits, nor can you expect them to carry more than one or two brands. If you need a master kit, ask, and you will probably receive. After you have it, you'll not be buying a new one for a long time, just refilling what you use.

Animals are a real margin killer. They get sick, they die, so many things can happen. With fish it is the same. Fish die, no profit there. Fish get sick and need to be treated. Definitely a reduction in the margin, if not a negative margin when all is said and done. They need heat--the fish room, at least, must be maintained at a higher temperature than the rest of the store. Water needs to be used, treated and used. Tanks need to be filtered. Fish need to be fed. So the fish that you are happy to buy, at $2.98, may have cost the LFS $0.50. "Wait a minute," you say. "That is far too expensive. They are charging me 6 times what the fish cost them." Go back and read the paragraph again. Start adding up the costs. You'll see that the owner is not making a great deal of money. (this is actually a high price--most fish are marked up at 3-400%.)

Selling animals is not a good way to stay in business. Not enough money (profit). While the margins are lower on hardware, the profits are greater. By buying hardware, you are actually doing more to support the shop and the owner. The shop owner, however, is limited in what he can buy by what his distributor stocks. If the distributor does not carry Marineland products, you'll not see their Eclipse tanks, or H.O.T. filters in the store, but instead, you'll see Fluvals. Can he get H.O.T. and Magnum filters? Yeah, probably, from another distributor. Is it worth it for him to get that stuff? Well, if he has it, then it probably is, if he doesn't, it may be that the costs of dealing with that distributor are too high for him. Also, he does need to keep a check on his inventory. It is no fun to carry an item on your books for a long time before it sells. It means the money is tied up, and cannot be used for something that does sell. He may need to write it off entirely. A loss is a loss, no matter how cheery those tax ads sound. It is lost opportunity cost, it is lost profit, it is lost interest. It is lost profit.

While an owner can make a good living, if he works only 70-80 hours a week, he is more likely to be found driving a Ford rather than a Ferrari (which reminds me that it is about time for me to take a look at what the Ferrari dealer across town has in his showroom). He is more likely to live in a modest home, not a McMansion. Truth is that they are likely to make as much money as you or I. (Just thank god my business is profitable right now.) I'd rather buy fish elsewhere, from the breeders, for example, than the LFS.

Being an owner of a local pet shop is not the road to quick riches. It is a long and hard road where your happiness is governed more by the work than the earnings.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel

while i agree with that buy stuff at LFS can be instant help like if
your tank leaks and you need a temporary home for your fish that is a
big plus but the problem i have is none of the LFS here will do that
especially the 1 i go to mostly (they r affraid of your fish having
diseases and contaminating the rest of the tanks)so they will not
take them in while i still buy my fish from the LFS and also foods
and other small items like that i really don t have that advantage of
being there if my tank cracks and as far as medication goes most
chains (petco, petsmart, pet supplies plus) carry a large variety of
medications and usually cheaper then mom and pop or LFS all i do is
pick up the phone and call DRS foster and smith to find out what med.
i would need they have a great staff there on hand if the person that
answers the phone doesn t know the answer they will get someone who
does they have a large staff on duty it seems like all of the time
i guess what i am saying is sure the LFS are good for a few things i
just think it is more advantagous to buy equipment online at half
price and then have more money for the actually fish that you can buy
at the LFS
but i have never brought a fish from www.liveaquaria.com i guess they
are in connection with drs foster and smith i think they offer a
great deal on fish they give you a 14 day warranty on all there fish
the LFS i deal with most of the time says once the fish is gone it s
to bad for you for the saltwater fish your loss and for freshwater
fish i think they give you 1 day and will give you 80% credit and 2
days 70% credit or something crazy like that but you also need to
bring in samples of your water and it s not 100 what they say water
should be i don t think you get anything (other words they don t back
there fish i guess)

maybe the LFS around where i live at just plain suck lol and that is
why i choose Drs Foster and Smith or other online stores they just
seem to be the most reputable ones
but like i said i still go there on a regular basis but it is mostly
to purchase smaller items like food maybe filter media and the
occasional fish but maybe not even fish anymore since i found that
liveaquaria.com i might try them out i mean around where i live you
can t beat a 14 day warranty on fish
i know i m just babbaling here or whatever lol but it is just my
opinion that if online stores offer better priced products and better
service then the LFS then the online stores deserve your business
same goes for any product out there
for instance tires i have recently brought tires from
www.discounttiresdirect.com for a set of 4 tires for less then $300
and paid my friends dad $10 per tire to mount and balance each tire
so all in all it was under $340 dollars and that includes road hazard
they send me a new tire next day no questions asked free of charge
and no pro rating the tire either they just go by the honor system
hoping you won t run the tire down to nothing then call up and say
you got a nail in your tire and needs replace
while $340 seems like alot for tires all the local tire shop i mean
every one of them told me my tire size was a rare size and the
cheapest i found out of approximatly 10-15 stores was about $500 and
while some of the tires were the same model that i purchased online
they were closer to the $550 price while the $500 were a cheaper tire
or a no name tire it still saved me about 200 dollars on tires (he he
he more money for fish he he he) and i would say it is alot better
service at the online stores cause there was no pressure selling and
they had a large choice of tires and also customer reviews of tires
of actually people who actually had the tires on there cars and then
the local tire dealer they usually had just 1 or 2 tires for my size
tire and they were buying them from the same place i brought my tires
anyways i was just cutting out the middle man i guess and the only
opinion i got about the tires from the local stores was the people
that worked there that probably don t even or never had the tire on
there cars
sorry for more babbaling here i m just bored lol
so to end this post i will say local stores are good for the small
things like food or get your tires balanced or just whatever service
they offer
but i would not knock the services of online stores just because you
aren t face to face with the customer service rep.
infact i feel they are far superior in service and in choices of
product then local stores but just my opinion

AGAIN JUST MY OPINION AND MAYBE IF LOCAL STORES TRAINED THERE STAFF
MORE AND PAID THEM BETTER THAN MIN. WAGE TO GIVE A CRAP YOU MIGHT GET
BETTER SERVICE LOL

SORRY IF ANY OF YOU OUT THERE ARE STORE OWNERS BUT IT IS TRUE IF YOU
WOULDN T CARE SO MUCH ABOUT THE SIZE OF YOUR HOUSE HAVE A 5000 SQ FT
HOUSE INSTEAD OF A 3500 SQ FT HOUSE AND HAVING A CORVETTE INSTEAD OF
A FERRARI AND OFFER YOUR CUSTOMERS BETTER SERVICES AT A LITTLE
CHEAPER PRICE MAYBE SO MANY PEOPLE WOULDN T BE TURNING TO ONLINE
STORES IF YOU DON T BELIEVE THAT THEN EXPLAIN WHY SO MANY STORES ARE
DOWN IN SALES

lol more babbaling hope not to offend to many of you out there since
this is a good group here i m just cranky today with my runny nose
and puffy eye


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, hank voss <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> Well said Steve!! Thats why nowadays there are so few actualFISH
STORES left.
> Hank
>
> =============================
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
> Yes, you can save a lot of money buying things online.
However, if it is
> available at your local mom and pop fish store, I'd recommend
giving the
> business to them, especially if they are good stores. Why? If you
are
> doing your business with them, they are right there available for
help,
> to give you advice on your equipment, advice on your fish, advice
on the
> hobby. You don't give them the business, but go online to do so, or
go
> to one of the large chains, eventually they will not be there for
you.
> They will not be able to afford to stay in business. The premium
you pay
> for that filter, or anything, can be money well spent in the long
run.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 20971 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Thank you very much!
Gayle

----- Original Message -----

http://fish.mongabay.com/flowerhorn.htm says they get to 12" so I think your
30G is out of the question unless only a temporary home to avoid stunting.
Something in the range of 6' long would probably be needed for long term
health as it gets bigger. If you Google "flowerhorn" as one word, you will
find many specialty sites on this hybrid cichlid.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20972 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Forgot to ask.....do you or anyone else have any suggestions of a nice
fish(s) that would do well in a 30 gallon? I've run out of ideas other than
dwarf cichlids....
Thanks again!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----
http://fish.mongabay.com/flowerhorn.htm says they get to 12" so I think your
30G is out of the question unless only a temporary home to avoid stunting.
Something in the range of 6' long would probably be needed for long term
health as it gets bigger. If you Google "flowerhorn" as one word, you will
find many specialty sites on this hybrid cichlid.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20973 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Hi Gayle,

While my opinion is extremely low on Flowerhorns and other Hybrid cichlids I will say that the tank you mentioned(30 gal) is too small and the 75 gallon can probably only house one safely. When I say safely I mean that two adult flowerhorns in a small space will usually end up in a dead fish. They are very aggressive fish and many that choose to keep these hybrids often have one per tank.

If you like all the activity in your current setup with all those fish you have it will probably get boring pretty fast with one big fish sitting and staring at you. If you ever choose to try and breed flowerhorns you will find that most of the fry end up being given away or culled as they produce hundreds and there is no big market for them.

To learn more about flowerhorns and other hybrids check out this link.

http://www.cichlidresearch.com/hybrids.html

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: crazyforcritters@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 4:47 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids


Hello everyone! My name is Gayle and I live in the US, New Hampshire. I've
had tanks in the past but recently set up two tanks after almost 10 years.
I need some advice about the Flower Horn.....

I found a large (adult?) female Flower Horn as well as quite a few smaller
ones. I have a 30 gallon tank and I'm wondering if it is too small for a
single adult? I also have a 75 gallon tank but that is occupied by 4 angel
fish, 4 gouramis, 5 mollies, a bushy nose pleco and a black ghost. I would
LOVE to get this adult female if I can. If the 30 gallon is too small for
her, then what would be the smallest size (but suitable) for her? I thought
of rehoming some of my fish and giving her the 75 gallon but not sure if I
want to do that. My mom has a 55 gallon tank that she is not using and I
could set that up for her, but space is a problem then....I don't really
have the space for that size tank.

Thanks for any ideas/advice!
Gayle



________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20974 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel
that sounds good to me he he he

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Just go by Steve01 like your email. The other well known, long-
time member,
> Steve S uses his "signature" signature with the \\Steve// so I
don't think
> we'll get too confused. Who knows, maybe \\Steve// will get the
blame if
> you do something wrong! :-D
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 2:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-
Wheel
>
> grrr my last name also starts with an S so we have 2 steve s's here
lol oh
> well i guess i am just steve and the other steve is steve s
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20975 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids
Well, there are a myriad of combinations of tropical's that would work. If
you are mainly interested in cichlids, here are some cookie cutter
suggestions for stocking a 30G... well actually a 29G tall.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/cookie_cutter_29g.php

Is your tank actually a 29G tall (12"x30"x18"tall) tank or what are the
dimensions? A 30G is not very common in my area.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 9:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New to list...question about Flower Horn Cichlids

Forgot to ask.....do you or anyone else have any suggestions of a nice
fish(s) that would do well in a 30 gallon? I've run out of ideas other than
dwarf cichlids....
Thanks again!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----
http://fish.mongabay.com/flowerhorn.htm says they get to 12" so I think your
30G is out of the question unless only a temporary home to avoid stunting.
Something in the range of 6' long would probably be needed for long term
health as it gets bigger. If you Google "flowerhorn" as one word, you will
find many specialty sites on this hybrid cichlid.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20976 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: Re: Choice.......choices of LFS over online stores
i agree with what you say pretty much it is definately good to have
them around but at the same time i m not 1 that will pay 2x more
money for the same products
but as i said i do give them some business not to mention all the
other business the owner of this store get being in the rich
neighborhood he is in he just writes rare on his tanks and marks the
price of the fish up for instance 1 time he had an adult angelfish
saltwater angelfish i forget what 1 it was but i remember it not
being that rare but he wrote it on the tank and he sold it for 1,500
dollars now that i think of it i believe it was an Imperator
angelfish adult yeah that s right 1,500 big ones i m not sure if
there was some kinda story behind the fish maybe it belonged to
P.Diddy or someone else famous lol
i never looked at experation dates on test kits is it really that
short of a shelf life though i would think something like that would
be good for at least a year or 2 but like i said i m not sure

here s another crazy idea why don t LFS try to do a little more
breeding of there own fish now since i never breed fish before i don
t know what kinda expense there would be involved in that but they
already have the equipment there
i know that my LFS have had Discus breed a couple times and then make
a nice handsome profit off them since they really never paid for it
up front just the cost of food, electric, water, and whatever else
goes into it but those expenses go with any business but if your not
paying up front for the fish or paying to have it shipped overnight
or same day shipped to you that right there would save thousands of
dollars every month seeing most LFS get shipments in every week and
each shipment would weigh a couple hundred pounds i would think just
shipping that much weight either same day or next day would cost a
small fortune now i know that would involve having someone there to
care for them or better yet the owner could do it himself or just
make it part of the responsibilities of thee workers
i just think that if an online store can offer a 14 day warranty on a
fish that a LFS could at least give you a week i believe it is called
standing behind your product now i would understand not giving
someone a refund if there water was a complete disaster and never
changed the water then thats a whole new story
thank God i never purchased a fish that was more then 40 dollars i
would be so pissed if i had something like a 200-300 dollar fish and
it died in a matter of 2 or 3 days cause it had a pre existing
condition that was not detectable at the time of purchase while i
will still purchase the less expensive fish at LFS if it comes a time
i want anything more expensive i would probably purchase it from an
online store that gave me a 14 day warranty cause i would think if
there was something wrong with the fish it would be noticable with in
that 14 days

here is warranty at my LFS for there fish
saltwater no warranty
freshwater warranty within 48 hours 50% instore credit 72 hours 20%
in store credit

believe it or not my LFS are actually about the same price or even in
some cases cheaper then chain stores well except for the fish that is
so i m not comparing chains and LFS to each other but both of them to
online stores
even though LFS and chains are a completely different catagory i will
always choose a LFS over a chain unless they don t have what i want
then i will go to the chain
for instance i am lookin for yellow lab cichlids and petco has them
for about 8 dollars a piece and also have about 10 of them
and the LFS has them for about 20 bucks and only have 2-5
while petco isn t know for there top quality fish i have purchased
fish a few times before for instance my 2 clownfish that i have had
for about 2.5-3 years now and they are still healthy not bad for a
petco fish i would say the point is here with them having more of a
particular fish that i can pick from i will buy it from them rather
then my LFS not only to save some money but also that i can pick from
a bigger variety of the fish i want
now that is not always the case though but it is sometimes
well i guess that is all i have to say for now
i m just trying to figure out the reason you prefer the LFS over
online stores
for me i will just go wherever i will get the better deal or better
services or just which ever 1 has the product i am looking for
that is how i make my decisions where i will buy from it s not that i
perfer online stores over LFS it just seems like online stores offer
better deals,service, and selections maybe the local stores here just
suck and this might not be the problem for everyone here but at least
i have options that i don t have to deal with the fish stores if i
don t want to on a particular day
oh 1 other point i will make is the gas i use driving to the LFS and
the milage put on my car too not to be nit picking but if LFS are
going to complain about having to pay for the water and electric to
keep there product in then i guess i have a right to complain about
having to drive to there store about a 20 minute drive each way so if
u figure that into the price of things too that 2.98 fish might
actually be costing you 3.98 or more i mean that is only fair to put
that into what your paying for products if they are gonna charge for
feeding the fish and performing water changes
i m just nuts i guess lol oh well ignore me if you want lol
i think we could disagree on this forever and ever if we want to but
it is all in everyone s opinion on which the perfer more the LFS or
the online stores
and i feel that people should know there are other choices out there
other then the LFS or the chains of pet stores
talk to you later







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> Replying to two of your messages here. First, the keeping of your
fish in case of an emergency. I'd not rely on a LFS to do so, except
in a case of last resort. This is where you get your friends to step
in and lend a hand. If I had such a disaster, I'd only have to make,
at most, 2 calls, and help would be on its way and I can spend time
bagging fish and not having to worry about the care they would
receive. I have also been on the helping side of the coin, and was
more than glad to help out.
>
> I'm not big on medications, preferring to use the old salt, water
changes and/or heat methods, which will suffice for a cure in
probably 90% of cases. If I am sure exactly what the fish are
suffering from, and a medication is, indeed, indicated, I'll shop
around for the particular medication I need, and run the full course
of treatment with it. If the LFS does not carry what I need, then
I'll go so far as to ask a vet to write me out a prescription for it,
and get it at a local drug store (you really do need to know a vet in
this case--I know a few well enough that I do not even get a
question, they just write what I may need). Abuse of this trust would
be criminal, though, so it is fairly easy for me to get it since I
ask so rarely.
>
> In a case like this, I do not mind by-passing the LFS. Another case
is with test kits. All test kits have an expiration. If they are not
sold fast enough, the shop owner loses money because the kit has
expired. You cannot and should not expect a small operation like an
LFS to carry a big inventory of test kits, nor can you expect them to
carry more than one or two brands. If you need a master kit, ask, and
you will probably receive. After you have it, you'll not be buying a
new one for a long time, just refilling what you use.
>
> Animals are a real margin killer. They get sick, they die, so many
things can happen. With fish it is the same. Fish die, no profit
there. Fish get sick and need to be treated. Definitely a reduction
in the margin, if not a negative margin when all is said and done.
They need heat--the fish room, at least, must be maintained at a
higher temperature than the rest of the store. Water needs to be
used, treated and used. Tanks need to be filtered. Fish need to be
fed. So the fish that you are happy to buy, at $2.98, may have cost
the LFS $0.50. "Wait a minute," you say. "That is far too expensive.
They are charging me 6 times what the fish cost them." Go back and
read the paragraph again. Start adding up the costs. You'll see that
the owner is not making a great deal of money. (this is actually a
high price--most fish are marked up at 3-400%.)
>
> Selling animals is not a good way to stay in business. Not enough
money (profit). While the margins are lower on hardware, the profits
are greater. By buying hardware, you are actually doing more to
support the shop and the owner. The shop owner, however, is limited
in what he can buy by what his distributor stocks. If the distributor
does not carry Marineland products, you'll not see their Eclipse
tanks, or H.O.T. filters in the store, but instead, you'll see
Fluvals. Can he get H.O.T. and Magnum filters? Yeah, probably, from
another distributor. Is it worth it for him to get that stuff? Well,
if he has it, then it probably is, if he doesn't, it may be that the
costs of dealing with that distributor are too high for him. Also, he
does need to keep a check on his inventory. It is no fun to carry an
item on your books for a long time before it sells. It means the
money is tied up, and cannot be used for something that does sell. He
may need to write it off entirely. A loss is a loss, no matter how
cheery those tax ads sound. It is lost opportunity cost, it is lost
profit, it is lost interest. It is lost profit.
>
> While an owner can make a good living, if he works only 70-80 hours
a week, he is more likely to be found driving a Ford rather than a
Ferrari (which reminds me that it is about time for me to take a look
at what the Ferrari dealer across town has in his showroom). He is
more likely to live in a modest home, not a McMansion. Truth is that
they are likely to make as much money as you or I. (Just thank god my
business is profitable right now.) I'd rather buy fish elsewhere,
from the breeders, for example, than the LFS.
>
> Being an owner of a local pet shop is not the road to quick riches.
It is a long and hard road where your happiness is governed more by
the work than the earnings.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:46 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-
Wheel
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20977 From: steve Date: 2/15/2007
Subject: who has yahoo messanger here
anyone or maybe everyone here does
message me if you want to if u see me online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20978 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Yipee!

This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them eaten
up asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are
depressed for days afterwards. Poor things.

I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday.
Caught them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make
good fry rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have to
take out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.

My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life, death,
and the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's
aquarium habit I think.

Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.

http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu

Wendy :-)

PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20979 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Thats awesome. I am going to be getting into breeding betta's
hopefully...and swordtails (easier and livebearing)

any suggestions?

If you get to many and need to put some up for sale, your friends here
in Lancaster, PA are interested.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...> wrote:
>
> Yipee!
>
> This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them eaten
> up asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are
> depressed for days afterwards. Poor things.
>
> I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday.
> Caught them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make
> good fry rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
> angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have to
> take out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
>
> My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
> Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
> babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life, death,
> and the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's
> aquarium habit I think.
>
> Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20980 From: steve Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: anyone here is western pennsylvania
just curious if there is and what kinda tanks people keep in my area
i don t have any freinds that keep fish my 1 friend use to have a
tank but when him and his girlfriend broke up he let her keep the
tank and i believe it was takin down and gotten rid of so now no
friends with tanks
maybe this would be a good place to find someone in my area with
tanks incase of a disaster we could have temperory homes
i might just have to go out and get a few small tanks though wonders
if i should use my coupon to get a brand new 55 gallon tank for 65
dollars it expires this month but i m affraid if i go and buy it i
will be tempted to set it up lol
kinda like how i did with my 29 gallon tank lol

i have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank
for saltwater i have
2 percula clowns
2 yellow tail blue damsels
1 keyhole angelfish
1 royal gramma
1 green chromis

fresh water tank i have
about 5 black skirt tetra
1 blue columbian tetra
1 red eye tetra
1 scissor tail tetra
1 bala shark about 2"
1 rainbow fish about 2.5"

if anyone here is in my area and in the same sitution that i am that
doesn t know anyone else with aquariums that would need a temporary
home incase of emergency
as long as there are no predatory fish involved that will eat my fish
lol i guess then what would be the point i guess besides you getting
live food for your fish
i don t think any of my fish are predators but i do think my tetras
like to team up against other fish sometimes lol
oh no be aware of the almighty tetras such a horrifing group of fish
lol but i do think they like to pick on others smaller then them
lol forget the bloods and the crypts there s a new gang in town
the TETRAS lol
well again anyone in my area with the same problem as me with nobody
they know has aquariums and are interested in 911 emergency homes for
there fish let me know of course this would be a 2 way street
just after reading some of these posts on this message board i think
it would be a good idea to have connections like this
both of my tanks are newer 3 yrs old or newer so i hope i don t have
this problem for awhile or in that matter never have that problem
talk to you all later have a good day

i am actually located about half hour south of Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania really only about 15 miles south but can t go more then
50 MPH
thanks again let me know
steve or steve01 here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20981 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


Hi All,

I'm new to the list and new to fish also. I have
4 aquariums set up. I have male bettas in two
5 gallon tanks. I have 2 female bettas in a five
gallon tank. I did have another female in there
but she was beating up on the other two pretty
bad. I almost lost one I think from fin rot. I
started treating last night and she is better this
morning. She actually ate. The third female is
now in a ten gallon tank with my newest male. He
leaves her alone and she leaves him alone so I
am hopeful they can stay together for now.

Wendy, I was wondering what you meant when you said
you would have to take out your corner filter and
leave in the sponge? I know the corner filter but I
can't figure out what you meant by leaving the sponge.
I'm learning alot here but I can tell I still have
a ways to go. I have also had different advice from
different people so it gets confusing.

I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and
can't figure out why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the
ammonia was high because the goldfish were so messy but
it was great. The bettas are doing good it in though.
A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a
bubbler in the tank and only use a corner filter. I
don't know. I think maybe I should just stick with the
betta's. They are so beautiful.

Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions
for me I'd sure appreciate it. This is a great list and
I am really enjoying it.

Regards,
Traci




Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Yipee!
>
> This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them eaten up
asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are depressed
for days afterwards. Poor things.
>
> I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday. Caught
them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make good fry
rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
> angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have to take
out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
>
> My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
> Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
> babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life, death, and
the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's aquarium habit
I think.
>
> Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20982 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Hi again,

I just wanted to add that I didn't know goldfish
needed alot of room when I got them. I didn't try
the guppies until after the gold's died. I didn't
have them all in there at the same time. I did a
complete change and washed everything after the
guppies died because I have no idea what happened.


> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm new to the list and new to fish also. I have
> 4 aquariums set up. I have male bettas in two
> 5 gallon tanks. I have 2 female bettas in a five
> gallon tank. I did have another female in there
> but she was beating up on the other two pretty
> bad. I almost lost one I think from fin rot. I
> started treating last night and she is better this
> morning. She actually ate. The third female is
> now in a ten gallon tank with my newest male. He
> leaves her alone and she leaves him alone so I
> am hopeful they can stay together for now.
>
> Wendy, I was wondering what you meant when you said
> you would have to take out your corner filter and
> leave in the sponge? I know the corner filter but I
> can't figure out what you meant by leaving the sponge.
> I'm learning alot here but I can tell I still have
> a ways to go. I have also had different advice from
> different people so it gets confusing.
>
> I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and
> can't figure out why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
> 6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the
> ammonia was high because the goldfish were so messy but
> it was great. The bettas are doing good it in though.
> A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a
> bubbler in the tank and only use a corner filter. I
> don't know. I think maybe I should just stick with the
> betta's. They are so beautiful.
>
> Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions
> for me I'd sure appreciate it. This is a great list and
> I am really enjoying it.
>
> Regards,
> Traci
>
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Yipee!
>>
>> This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them eaten up
> asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are depressed
> for days afterwards. Poor things.
>>
>> I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday. Caught
> them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make good fry
> rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
>> angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have to take
> out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
>>
>> My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
>> Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
>> babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life, death, and
> the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's aquarium habit
> I think.
>>
>> Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
>>
>> Wendy :-)
>>
>> PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20983 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
I just took out the corner filter.. and kept the sponge just now.

The corner filter, though gentle.. has little slits in it that could
allow a small fry in it, thus.. possibly trapping it.

The special sponge filter has micro~pores (It is called a "fry
saver".. really it is a prefilter to a power filter, I just converted
it to a powered sponge filter by itself.).. and even though I have it
on a power head.. the power head is soooo tinnie tiny and weak, that
it won't be sucking in all the fry either, but it allows for a gently
water circulation within the tank. I like them better than an air
driven variety sometimes.. I like to play with filtering methods.

I just want to save all the fry I can that hatch and eventually become
free swimming.

That is what I meant, if that helps.

wEndy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm new to the list and new to fish also. I have
> 4 aquariums set up. I have male bettas in two
> 5 gallon tanks. I have 2 female bettas in a five
> gallon tank. I did have another female in there
> but she was beating up on the other two pretty
> bad. I almost lost one I think from fin rot. I
> started treating last night and she is better this
> morning. She actually ate. The third female is
> now in a ten gallon tank with my newest male. He
> leaves her alone and she leaves him alone so I
> am hopeful they can stay together for now.
>
> Wendy, I was wondering what you meant when you said
> you would have to take out your corner filter and
> leave in the sponge? I know the corner filter but I
> can't figure out what you meant by leaving the sponge.
> I'm learning alot here but I can tell I still have
> a ways to go. I have also had different advice from
> different people so it gets confusing.
>
> I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and
> can't figure out why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
> 6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the
> ammonia was high because the goldfish were so messy but
> it was great. The bettas are doing good it in though.
> A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a
> bubbler in the tank and only use a corner filter. I
> don't know. I think maybe I should just stick with the
> betta's. They are so beautiful.
>
> Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions
> for me I'd sure appreciate it. This is a great list and
> I am really enjoying it.
>
> Regards,
> Traci
>
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> > Yipee!
> >
> > This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them
eaten up
> asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are
depressed
> for days afterwards. Poor things.
> >
> > I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned
yesterday. Caught
> them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make good fry
> rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
> > angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll
have to take
> out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
> >
> > My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
> > Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
> > babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life,
death, and
> the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's
aquarium habit
> I think.
> >
> > Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
> >
> > http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
> >
> > Wendy :-)
> >
> > PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20984 From: Patty Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
Hi Steve,
I'm north of Pittsburgh near the Butler County line.
I have an 80 gal tank that I just recently redid. I had cichlids in it but
I just changed it over to a tropical fish community tank. Right now I only
have a couple of gouramis, a betta, a pleco, and 6 tiger barbs. Everyone is
getting along well and I'll probably add new fish in a few weeks.
I also have a 20H tank that I'm up in the air about. I keep thinking of
doing salt water, but I'm nervous about the expense.
Nice meeting you,
Patty



On 2/16/07, steve <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> just curious if there is and what kinda tanks people keep in my area
> i don t have any freinds that keep fish my 1 friend use to have a
> tank but when him and his girlfriend broke up he let her keep the
> tank and i believe it was takin down and gotten rid of so now no
> friends with tanks
> maybe this would be a good place to find someone in my area with
> tanks incase of a disaster we could have temperory homes
> i might just have to go out and get a few small tanks though wonders
> if i should use my coupon to get a brand new 55 gallon tank for 65
> dollars it expires this month but i m affraid if i go and buy it i
> will be tempted to set it up lol
> kinda like how i did with my 29 gallon tank lol
>
> i have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank
> for saltwater i have
> 2 percula clowns
> 2 yellow tail blue damsels
> 1 keyhole angelfish
> 1 royal gramma
> 1 green chromis
>
> fresh water tank i have
> about 5 black skirt tetra
> 1 blue columbian tetra
> 1 red eye tetra
> 1 scissor tail tetra
> 1 bala shark about 2"
> 1 rainbow fish about 2.5"
>
> if anyone here is in my area and in the same sitution that i am that
> doesn t know anyone else with aquariums that would need a temporary
> home incase of emergency
> as long as there are no predatory fish involved that will eat my fish
> lol i guess then what would be the point i guess besides you getting
> live food for your fish
> i don t think any of my fish are predators but i do think my tetras
> like to team up against other fish sometimes lol
> oh no be aware of the almighty tetras such a horrifing group of fish
> lol but i do think they like to pick on others smaller then them
> lol forget the bloods and the crypts there s a new gang in town
> the TETRAS lol
> well again anyone in my area with the same problem as me with nobody
> they know has aquariums and are interested in 911 emergency homes for
> there fish let me know of course this would be a 2 way street
> just after reading some of these posts on this message board i think
> it would be a good idea to have connections like this
> both of my tanks are newer 3 yrs old or newer so i hope i don t have
> this problem for awhile or in that matter never have that problem
> talk to you all later have a good day
>
> i am actually located about half hour south of Pittsburgh,
> Pennsylvania really only about 15 miles south but can t go more then
> 50 MPH
> thanks again let me know
> steve or steve01 here
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/All_Around_the_House
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/At_Home_in_the_Garden
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Porch_Talk
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Travel_America


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20985 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Ok, gotcha, I think.... Small power head with a
fry saving sponge. Not that I think my bettas
will spawn but if they should I don't want the
fry to get sucked up. Thanks!


Traci Swatek-Rice
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20986 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: (Bettas) Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
If you have betta fry.. minimal water movement during the matting and
spawning process is good.

I have a tiney tiny palm filter (miniature power filter) with a "fry
saver" sponge on the intake valve. The water that comes off is
gentle, and won't mess up the floating eggs that the male tends to.

I get my "fry saver" sponges off of ebay and aquabid (same seller)...
he sells them.. and they are pretty cheap. They work well. I even
cut them to fit if they are too big or whatever.

Here they are.. http://tinyurl.com/3657kv

I also use a gentle air driven small sponge filter in my betta
breeding tanks too.

I guess it just depends on what I want to do at any given time.

Here is a pic of my little 5G breeding tank. It has in it some
almond leave extract (you really don't need it.. it just is nice for
the bettas).

http://tinyurl.com/2csh85

I've got a tiny ambient heater element under the water flow to deflect
the movement of the water from the filter.

Ehh.. there it is.

WEndy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
>
> Ok, gotcha, I think.... Small power head with a
> fry saving sponge. Not that I think my bettas
> will spawn but if they should I don't want the
> fry to get sucked up. Thanks!
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20987 From: cynthia brennemann Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: tank lids
The home depot and lowes both have clear tape here in Illinois that
would work. A greenhouse supply company would definately have it.

> ok I think I get it lol so what is poly tape if I go into home depot
are
> they going to be able to help me out with this lid and tape lol
Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20988 From: steve Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
cool
if you do a 20 gallon saltwater it should not be that much at all
really but if you want the 80 gallon for saltwater now that is a
different story and it also depends what kinda saltwater if your
doing fish only and live rock should be cheap real cheap for 20G but
you should only put like 2 maybe 3 smaller fish in it now if you want
corals and stuff like that then yes it will be expensive
you could probably run a penguin 200 on the 20 gallon tank for
saltwater with no problem


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Patty <path145@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Steve,
> I'm north of Pittsburgh near the Butler County line.
> I have an 80 gal tank that I just recently redid. I had cichlids
in it but
> I just changed it over to a tropical fish community tank. Right
now I only
> have a couple of gouramis, a betta, a pleco, and 6 tiger barbs.
Everyone is
> getting along well and I'll probably add new fish in a few weeks.
> I also have a 20H tank that I'm up in the air about. I keep
thinking of
> doing salt water, but I'm nervous about the expense.
> Nice meeting you,
> Patty
>
>
>
> On 2/16/07, steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> >
> > just curious if there is and what kinda tanks people keep in my
area
> > i don t have any freinds that keep fish my 1 friend use to have a
> > tank but when him and his girlfriend broke up he let her keep the
> > tank and i believe it was takin down and gotten rid of so now no
> > friends with tanks
> > maybe this would be a good place to find someone in my area with
> > tanks incase of a disaster we could have temperory homes
> > i might just have to go out and get a few small tanks though
wonders
> > if i should use my coupon to get a brand new 55 gallon tank for 65
> > dollars it expires this month but i m affraid if i go and buy it i
> > will be tempted to set it up lol
> > kinda like how i did with my 29 gallon tank lol
> >
> > i have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank
> > for saltwater i have
> > 2 percula clowns
> > 2 yellow tail blue damsels
> > 1 keyhole angelfish
> > 1 royal gramma
> > 1 green chromis
> >
> > fresh water tank i have
> > about 5 black skirt tetra
> > 1 blue columbian tetra
> > 1 red eye tetra
> > 1 scissor tail tetra
> > 1 bala shark about 2"
> > 1 rainbow fish about 2.5"
> >
> > if anyone here is in my area and in the same sitution that i am
that
> > doesn t know anyone else with aquariums that would need a
temporary
> > home incase of emergency
> > as long as there are no predatory fish involved that will eat my
fish
> > lol i guess then what would be the point i guess besides you
getting
> > live food for your fish
> > i don t think any of my fish are predators but i do think my
tetras
> > like to team up against other fish sometimes lol
> > oh no be aware of the almighty tetras such a horrifing group of
fish
> > lol but i do think they like to pick on others smaller then them
> > lol forget the bloods and the crypts there s a new gang in town
> > the TETRAS lol
> > well again anyone in my area with the same problem as me with
nobody
> > they know has aquariums and are interested in 911 emergency homes
for
> > there fish let me know of course this would be a 2 way street
> > just after reading some of these posts on this message board i
think
> > it would be a good idea to have connections like this
> > both of my tanks are newer 3 yrs old or newer so i hope i don t
have
> > this problem for awhile or in that matter never have that problem
> > talk to you all later have a good day
> >
> > i am actually located about half hour south of Pittsburgh,
> > Pennsylvania really only about 15 miles south but can t go more
then
> > 50 MPH
> > thanks again let me know
> > steve or steve01 here
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/All_Around_the_House
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/At_Home_in_the_Garden
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Porch_Talk
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Travel_America
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20989 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish information for Traci, et al (was Angel fish spawned a
Hi Traci,

The high ammonia is what did them in, in all likelihood.

But just to give you a little information on goldfish, which is my primary
tank. They cannot be kept in a 10G tank, unless being used as a temporary
home while they are very small or as a Q-tank or H-tank. Round-bodied
goldfish grow to 8" body length and long bodied goldfish grow to 12"+ body
length. They need to be in BIG aquariums. I say the smallest should be a
4' long 55G and then you could have a couple, maybe 3 round-bodied goldfish
as long as there is adequate filtration. Long-bodied goldfish should be in
a pond unless you have a really BIG aquarium of 100G+ as they are big
swimmers.

As you already know, they are messy. I recommend a canister filter or HOB
system with as close to 10X filtration/circulation as you can get... not
only with goldfish but with any large, messy fish.

Goldfish and tropical's should not be mixed. Goldfish are cool-cold water
fish and do best in room temperature or colder tanks. 72F-74F max.

Here is a good 4-part "article" about goldfish... kind of a Cliff's Notes
version about keeping them.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
YIPEE!


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


Hi All,

...I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and can't figure out
why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the ammonia was high
because the goldfish were so messy but it was great. The bettas are doing
good it in though.

A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a bubbler in the tank
and only use a corner filter. I don't know. I think maybe I should just
stick with the betta's. They are so beautiful.

Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions for me I'd sure
appreciate it. This is a great list and I am really enjoying it.

Regards,
Traci
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20990 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIP
Hi again,

I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up email. But
maybe that information will help someone else on the list... especially that
article. It's one of the best "short" articles on keeping goldfish that
I've found.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
YIPEE!

Hi again,

I just wanted to add that I didn't know goldfish needed alot of room when I
got them. I didn't try the guppies until after the gold's died. I didn't
have them all in there at the same time. I did a complete change and washed
everything after the guppies died because I have no idea what happened.


> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm new to the list and new to fish also. I have
> 4 aquariums set up. I have male bettas in two
> 5 gallon tanks. I have 2 female bettas in a five gallon tank. I did
> have another female in there but she was beating up on the other two
> pretty bad. I almost lost one I think from fin rot. I started treating
> last night and she is better this morning. She actually ate. The third
> female is now in a ten gallon tank with my newest male. He leaves her
> alone and she leaves him alone so I am hopeful they can stay together
> for now.
>
> Wendy, I was wondering what you meant when you said you would have to
> take out your corner filter and leave in the sponge? I know the corner
> filter but I can't figure out what you meant by leaving the sponge.
> I'm learning alot here but I can tell I still have a ways to go. I
> have also had different advice from different people so it gets
> confusing.
>
> I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and can't figure out
> why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
> 6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the ammonia was
> high because the goldfish were so messy but it was great. The bettas
> are doing good it in though.
> A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a bubbler in the
> tank and only use a corner filter. I don't know. I think maybe I
> should just stick with the betta's. They are so beautiful.
>
> Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions for me I'd
> sure appreciate it. This is a great list and I am really enjoying it.
>
> Regards,
> Traci
>
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Yipee!
>>
>> This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them
>> eaten up
> asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are
> depressed for days afterwards. Poor things.
>>
>> I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday.
>> Caught
> them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make good
> fry rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
>> angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have
>> to take
> out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
>>
>> My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
>> Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
>> babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life,
>> death, and
> the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's aquarium
> habit I think.
>>
>> Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
>>
>> Wendy :-)
>>
>> PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20991 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Hi Lenny,

I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on
if I can find room for a bigger tank :) I think the
golds probably did die from ammonia. When I cleaned
the tank after they died it was filthy. They had only
been in there a week. I only fed what they ate in
less than a minute. Some would get swept down from the
filter though and I guess that built up. What killed
the guppies, I have no idea. I checked the water and
it was good. All six died though within a week. My
female betta was in there and she is fine and dandy.

Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
:)

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Hi again,
>
> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up email. But
> maybe that information will help someone else on the list... especially that
> article. It's one of the best "short" articles on keeping goldfish that
> I've found.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:28 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Hi again,
>
> I just wanted to add that I didn't know goldfish needed alot of room when I
> got them. I didn't try the guppies until after the gold's died. I didn't
> have them all in there at the same time. I did a complete change and washed
> everything after the guppies died because I have no idea what happened.
>
>
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm new to the list and new to fish also. I have
>> 4 aquariums set up. I have male bettas in two
>> 5 gallon tanks. I have 2 female bettas in a five gallon tank. I did
>> have another female in there but she was beating up on the other two
>> pretty bad. I almost lost one I think from fin rot. I started treating
>> last night and she is better this morning. She actually ate. The third
>> female is now in a ten gallon tank with my newest male. He leaves her
>> alone and she leaves him alone so I am hopeful they can stay together
>> for now.
>>
>> Wendy, I was wondering what you meant when you said you would have to
>> take out your corner filter and leave in the sponge? I know the corner
>> filter but I can't figure out what you meant by leaving the sponge.
>> I'm learning alot here but I can tell I still have a ways to go. I
>> have also had different advice from different people so it gets
>> confusing.
>>
>> I've had 8 fish die on me in the ten gallon tank and can't figure out
>> why. 2 fantail goldfish (so cute) and
>> 6 guppies. The water tests were all good. I thought the ammonia was
>> high because the goldfish were so messy but it was great. The bettas
>> are doing good it in though.
>> A friend suggested it might be because I don't have a bubbler in the
>> tank and only use a corner filter. I don't know. I think maybe I
>> should just stick with the betta's. They are so beautiful.
>>
>> Anyway, that's me and my fish. If anyone has suggestions for me I'd
>> sure appreciate it. This is a great list and I am really enjoying it.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Traci
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>>> Yipee!
>>>
>>> This paired angelfish are always laying eggs. Just to have them
>>> eaten up
>> asap, by my firemouth cichlid and clown loach. Then... they are
>> depressed for days afterwards. Poor things.
>>>
>>> I set up a 10G tank just for them. They finally spawned yesterday.
>>> Caught
>> them in the act. Now.. we'll have to wait and see if they make good
>> fry rearing parents. I'll keep you posted. These are BIG
>>> angels.. the pics just don't do them justice. Looks like I'll have
>>> to take
>> out the corner filter today, and just leave the sponge.
>>>
>>> My kids are stoked! They all want baby angels for their little tanks.
>>> Whenever the fish/snails/crayfish or whatever spawn, or bear
>>> babies... they get so much out of it. Teaches them about life,
>>> death, and
>> the struggle to survive. They are getting a lot out of mom's aquarium
>> habit I think.
>>>
>>> Anyhoo.. just wanted to share.
>>>
>>> http://tinyurl.com/2egrfu
>>>
>>> Wendy :-)
>>>
>>> PS.. when I breed my next batch of bettas, I'll try to take pics too.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20992 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: (Bettas) Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Thanks Wendy,

I can't look up pics here at work but I'll check
them when I get home. It would be neat if they
did spawn since they are both really pretty and
healthy but I hear it can be hard to get them
to. I'll be prepared in case they do hit it off.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> If you have betta fry.. minimal water movement during the matting and
> spawning process is good.
>
> I have a tiney tiny palm filter (miniature power filter) with a "fry
> saver" sponge on the intake valve. The water that comes off is
> gentle, and won't mess up the floating eggs that the male tends to.
>
> I get my "fry saver" sponges off of ebay and aquabid (same seller)...
> he sells them.. and they are pretty cheap. They work well. I even
> cut them to fit if they are too big or whatever.
>
> Here they are.. http://tinyurl.com/3657kv
>
> I also use a gentle air driven small sponge filter in my betta
> breeding tanks too.
>
> I guess it just depends on what I want to do at any given time.
>
> Here is a pic of my little 5G breeding tank. It has in it some
> almond leave extract (you really don't need it.. it just is nice for
> the bettas).
>
> http://tinyurl.com/2csh85
>
> I've got a tiny ambient heater element under the water flow to deflect
> the movement of the water from the filter.
>
> Ehh.. there it is.
>
> WEndy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Ok, gotcha, I think.... Small power head with a
>> fry saving sponge. Not that I think my bettas
>> will spawn but if they should I don't want the
>> fry to get sucked up. Thanks!
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> >
>>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20993 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
There are several clubs in your area. Look for the Greater Pittsburgh
Aquarium Society (http://www.gpasi.org/). They have a shin-dig coming up
in March. It would be worth your while to get to at least that.

If you really want to talk marine fish, take a look for Pittsburgh
Marine Aquarium Society, whose web site is http://www.pmas.org/. They
meet in Monroeville--no idea where that is in relation to you, but, if
you figure it out fast, they have a meeting tomorrow.
If you have an interest in killies, look at the Pittsburgh Area
Killifish Association. It looks like they have been a bit lax in
updating their web site, but here it is
http://shene.killi.net/paka/paka.htm. You can probably write one of them
to get more info. These clubs meet in members homes quite a bit, which
gives you a chance to check out what they have.

You are likely to find a whole bunch of new friends at any of these
groups.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone here is western pennsylvania

just curious if there is and what kinda tanks people keep in my area
i don t have any freinds that keep fish my 1 friend use to have a
tank but when him and his girlfriend broke up he let her keep the
tank and i believe it was takin down and gotten rid of so now no
friends with tanks
maybe this would be a good place to find someone in my area with
tanks incase of a disaster we could have temperory homes
i might just have to go out and get a few small tanks though wonders
if i should use my coupon to get a brand new 55 gallon tank for 65
dollars it expires this month but i m affraid if i go and buy it i
will be tempted to set it up lol
kinda like how i did with my 29 gallon tank lol

i have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank
for saltwater i have
2 percula clowns
2 yellow tail blue damsels
1 keyhole angelfish
1 royal gramma
1 green chromis

fresh water tank i have
about 5 black skirt tetra
1 blue columbian tetra
1 red eye tetra
1 scissor tail tetra
1 bala shark about 2"
1 rainbow fish about 2.5"

if anyone here is in my area and in the same sitution that i am that
doesn t know anyone else with aquariums that would need a temporary
home incase of emergency
as long as there are no predatory fish involved that will eat my fish
lol i guess then what would be the point i guess besides you getting
live food for your fish
i don t think any of my fish are predators but i do think my tetras
like to team up against other fish sometimes lol
oh no be aware of the almighty tetras such a horrifing group of fish
lol but i do think they like to pick on others smaller then them
lol forget the bloods and the crypts there s a new gang in town
the TETRAS lol
well again anyone in my area with the same problem as me with nobody
they know has aquariums and are interested in 911 emergency homes for
there fish let me know of course this would be a 2 way street
just after reading some of these posts on this message board i think
it would be a good idea to have connections like this
both of my tanks are newer 3 yrs old or newer so i hope i don t have
this problem for awhile or in that matter never have that problem
talk to you all later have a good day

i am actually located about half hour south of Pittsburgh,
Pennsylvania really only about 15 miles south but can t go more then
50 MPH
thanks again let me know
steve or steve01 here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20994 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so that it is
safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most people just do regular
PWC's and do not realize how to get the nitrogen cycle established in the
tank.

With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the best.
It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
colony.

It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html ) or use
Bio-Spira ( http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp )
which can be bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).

But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you are
stuck with "cycling with fish" (
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ). This
requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's (partial
water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or less, until the
nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only have to keep your nitrates
below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.

Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS to
know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an article I
wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help new or
established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx

Hope this helps you and others.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
YIPEE!

Hi Lenny,

I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find room for
a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from ammonia. When I
cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They had only been in there
a week. I only fed what they ate in less than a minute. Some would get swept
down from the filter though and I guess that built up. What killed the
guppies, I have no idea. I checked the water and it was good. All six died
though within a week. My female betta was in there and she is fine and
dandy.

Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
:)

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Hi again,
>
> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20995 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Thanks everyone for the previous info. on the Flowerhorn fish...I really appreciate it!

I am looking for info. on these fish. If anyone has info./links please email me. I purchased a baby tonight (2") and I would like to try and get more accurate info. about their adult size, tank accomodations, etc. I don't mind upgrading down the road but not if it means I need a 100 gallon tank. The petstore I purchased him at, didn't know jack! They gave me wrong info...yet again with another store! I think I will stick to the ONE store that I know that really does their homework and knows their exotic fish!

Thanks in advance,
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20996 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
these are Brackish fish that get about 15 inches or so


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the previous info. on the Flowerhorn fish...I
really appreciate it!
>
> I am looking for info. on these fish. If anyone has info./links
please email me. I purchased a baby tonight (2") and I would like to
try and get more accurate info. about their adult size, tank
accomodations, etc. I don't mind upgrading down the road but not if
it means I need a 100 gallon tank. The petstore I purchased him at,
didn't know jack! They gave me wrong info...yet again with another
store! I think I will stick to the ONE store that I know that really
does their homework and knows their exotic fish!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Gayle
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20997 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20998 From: Aaron Date: 2/16/2007
Subject: LFS vs Online
I stuggle with the LFS, each has such different terminology and
prices on the same thing. I ask the same same qustion to 2 workers at
the same store and usally get different answers.

I research as much as possible online because of the conflicting info
from each person.

I was at Connie's yesterday and saw a Salamander for $7 that I paid
$20 for as an impulse buy at another place.

It seems like it would be so much better if there were some sort of
industry standard or "MSRP" like with cars or clothes so it would be
easier to compare and the LFS would have to be more competitive. It
seems the only thing I can really base my decision on is percieved
quality and value based on price, knowledge and personality.
Ultimately, if I can't stand the people there, I'm not going to give
them my business, maybe if they are giving stuff away, but other than
that - I like to feel good about the exchange. Lately I've been
trading privately through craigslist and FreeCycle, no taxes.

I only go to certain stores for particular items - i.e.

WetPets for the $.50 neons,

Concord Aquarium for the Live Tubifex Worms (there's are the most
healthy I've ever seen),

Pet Extreme for the Live Brine Shrimp (best price locally),

Albany Aquarium for anything Plant Related, True SAE's and Amano
Shrimp,

WalMart for cheap dried foods,

PetCo/PetSmart for sale items that are less expensive than anywhere
else

I used to do a lot of trading with 2 LFS for several years, but the
last 2 times they screwed me over on the deals that had been such
normal routine, now 1 of them is shutting down.

Lately I've been taking all my extra fish and plants to another LFS
out of town, the 3 regular employees there are are helpful and
friendly.

I also like the Octopus's Garden in Berkeley, Erin usally has a lot
of great stuff.


There are a few items I can only get online, and occasionaly there
are great buys, but typically I prefer to get it now - that
satisfaction of instant gratification, at the LFS.

I've never bought any living things online, only "dry" goods. I'm too
much of a control freak to let somebody else pick out my fish and
plants.

Aaron in Livermore


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
...I understand what you mean. I do try and give the LFS as much
business as I can. There are somethings I do buy online. I also get
a fair amount of stuff at aquarium societies I belong to. The
Aquariums Societies I am in try to foster good relations with the LFS
stores and encourage people to shop at them and the stores support us
with donations. Some stores are adamantly against aquarium
socieities and think of them as competition. Too bad as I have seen
where clubs and stores complement each other.
>

...

There are a couple LFS's that I will not shop at because of a couple
bad experiences and there are a couple that were excellent stores
that closed recently. Wish I could pick and choose who stayed open
by there quality but we know that isn't happening.

...

There is a shop about 20 miles from me that quarantines everything
before they even put it out on the floor for sales. I have a lot of
confidence in that store. I pay more but I know they have taken the
time to quarantine.
...
I just found out a few days ago that an excellent store a half hour
from me closed. The owner is going to continue business out of his
home instead of a brick and mortar store. I guess it is hard to
compete with online places. Great guy, he was always ordering
uncommon fish that the chain stores would not even dream of getting.
Excellent advice, learned a lot from him and his staff.
...
Mike


> -----Original Message-----
> From: steve01@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 7:45 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Choice.......Decided Emperor 400 Bio-
Wheel
>
>
> they r affraid of your fish having
> diseases and contaminating the rest of the tanks)so they will not
> take them in while i still buy my fish from the LFS and also foods
> and other small items like that i really don t have that advantage
of
> being there if my tank cracks and as far as medication goes most
> chains (petco, petsmart, pet supplies plus) carry a large variety
of
> medications and usually cheaper then mom and pop or LFS all i do is
> pick up the phone and call DRS foster and smith to find out what
med.
> i would need they have a great staff there on hand if the person
that
> answers the phone doesn t know the answer they will get someone who
> does they have a large staff on duty it seems like all of the time
> i guess what i am saying is sure the LFS are good for a few things
i
> just think it is more advantagous to buy equipment online at half
>
> maybe the LFS around where i live at just plain suck lol and that
is
> why i choose Drs Foster and Smith or other online stores they just
> seem to be the most reputable ones
> but like i said i still go there on a regular basis but it is
mostly
> to purchase smaller items like food maybe filter media and the
> occasional fish but maybe not even fish anymore since i found that
> liveaquaria.com i might try them out i mean around where i live you
> can t beat a 14 day warranty on fish
> i know i m just babbaling here or whatever lol but it is just my
> opinion that if online stores offer better priced products and
better
> service then the LFS then the online stores deserve your business
> same goes for any product out there ...
> so to end this post i will say local stores are good for the small
> things like food or get your tires balanced or just whatever
service
> they offer
> but i would not knock the services of online stores just because
you
> aren t face to face with the customer service rep.
> infact i feel they are far superior in service and in choices of
> product then local stores but just my opinion
>
> AGAIN JUST MY OPINION AND MAYBE IF LOCAL STORES TRAINED THERE STAFF
> MORE AND PAID THEM BETTER THAN MIN. WAGE TO GIVE A CRAP YOU MIGHT
GET
> BETTER SERVICE LOL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 20999 From: Aaron Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: LFS Links
Please add your favorites here so we can all share where we like to
shop, thanks.

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links

Links > L F S
Local Fish Stores ~ post links, phone #'s, address and info of your
favorite lfs ~ Sorted into folders by Country, State/Provinince,
Region, County, City, etc...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21000 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Thanks for the help everyone! I really appreciate it!

I gave him 2 small feeder fish last night, wasn't sure if he'd even eat them
and he gulped them right down, even at 2"!!!! His belly was HUGE! He's a
stunning fish!

Looks like I'm going to be upgrading tanks sometime in the near future to
accomodate him!

Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21001 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Actually I did cycle the tank for 24 hours. I cycled
all four of them. I bought the Happy Betta book and
went by those directions. That's why I have them in
tanks now rather than the bowls they started out in.
They are much better off now. Their colors are more
rich and they are more active. I place mirrors for
the boys on their tanks to boost their self confidence.
The invading fish always leave. LOL They're always
the victor. Is there anything else that might help?
I really appreciate your help.


I know they don't eat the bloodworms or the frozen
brine shrimp I give them. I guess they don't know
what treats are. They eat their pellets and a tetra
blend of granules.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
> understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so that it is
> safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most people just do regular
> PWC's and do not realize how to get the nitrogen cycle established in the
> tank.
>
> With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the best.
> It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
> colony.
>
> It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html ) or use
> Bio-Spira ( http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp )
> which can be bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).
>
> But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you are
> stuck with "cycling with fish" (
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ). This
> requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's (partial
> water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or less, until the
> nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only have to keep your nitrates
> below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.
>
> Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
> keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS to
> know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an article I
> wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help new or
> established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx
>
> Hope this helps you and others.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Hi Lenny,
>
> I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find room for
> a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from ammonia. When I
> cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They had only been in there
> a week. I only fed what they ate in less than a minute. Some would get swept
> down from the filter though and I guess that built up. What killed the
> guppies, I have no idea. I checked the water and it was good. All six died
> though within a week. My female betta was in there and she is fine and
> dandy.
>
> Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
> :)
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Hi again,
>>
>> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
>> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
>> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
>> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21002 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Be careful where you get your feeder fish... unless you are raising them
yourself. The ones in many pet stores are often not very healthy and could
affect your fish adversely.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua


Thanks for the help everyone! I really appreciate it!

I gave him 2 small feeder fish last night, wasn't sure if he'd even eat them
and he gulped them right down, even at 2"!!!! His belly was HUGE! He's a
stunning fish!

Looks like I'm going to be upgrading tanks sometime in the near future to
accomodate him!

Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21003 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Quarantine tanks
People who are prepared for setting up a quarantine or hospital tank
usually keep a bubble-up sponge filter active in one of their tanks.
When the set up the quarantine tank, they then add the filter to the
tank, then the fish. The sponge filter contains enough bacteria to
handle the ammonia load in the quarantine tank.

One thing to watch for, however, is that when treating with certain
chemicals (drugs), this bacteria can be wiped out as well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~~JFazio~~
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Quarantine tanks

After having 4 fish in my 10 gallon quarantine tank about a month
ago, the water in there turned cloudy. Again I used my friend's
System 1 Diatom filter and wow, it cleared the tank up in about 5
minutes!

After asking Robin about the whys of the cloudiness, she said that it
may have been caused by having no fish in there for awhile - that
leaving it empty upsets the biological system. A fish store person
told me that it happened because I had too many fish in there at once
(app. 8"). I can't believe that is accurate given how many fish they
keep in the pet store tanks (maybe that's why many of their fish do
not look so good).

Which is true, and if it's the empty tank issue, is there a way to
keep an empty tank from having problems like that in the future?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio - jfazio@... :: Priorities Errand Management,
LLC :: http://www.prioritiesonline.com :: p 207.752.4700 :: f
207.363.6333
Silpada Designs Independent Representative - Visit
http://www.mysilpada.com/jfazio to preview the 2006-2007 fine
sterling jewelry collection - find yourself in it
To neuter is cuter. Good homes are hard to find. Spay today!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21004 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
Hi again Traci,

You really do need to go and read those links I gave you and come back here
with any questions you may have.

You cannot "cycle" a tank in 24 hours unless using Bio-Spira. "Fishless
Cycling" takes around a month unless the system is "seeded" first with
filter media or gravel from a known-healthy tank... then it can happen in as
little as 10 days or so. Without "help" from seeding or Bio-Spira, it
usually takes 6-8 weeks to "cycle" a tank using live fish. If you have
access to healthy filter media or gravel from a cycled tank, then you could
seed your filter to speed up the process but even then, it would take a few
weeks. In the interim, until the tank is fully "cycled", you must monitor
ammonia/nitrite levels and do 25% PWC's as needed to keep the water safe.

The "Happy Betta" book is probably making for many unhappy fish if their
directions really say that it can be done in 24 hours. Now... if they
further say that you should be testing your ammonia/nitrites and doing 2-3
times a week PWC's, then that will usually keep the water safe but it's NOT
"cycled" in the true sense of the word as used in aquaria for "The Nitrogen
Cycle". At least not until the entire process has completed and you have a
healthy nitrifying bacteria colony growing in your filter media, gravel and
all other surfaces... with most of the N-bacteria living in your filter
media since that's where the food passes through.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
YIPEE!

Actually I did cycle the tank for 24 hours. I cycled all four of them. I
bought the Happy Betta book and went by those directions. That's why I have
them in tanks now rather than the bowls they started out in.
They are much better off now. Their colors are more rich and they are more
active. I place mirrors for the boys on their tanks to boost their self
confidence.
The invading fish always leave. LOL They're always the victor. Is there
anything else that might help?
I really appreciate your help.


I know they don't eat the bloodworms or the frozen brine shrimp I give them.
I guess they don't know what treats are. They eat their pellets and a tetra
blend of granules.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
> understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so that
> it is safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most people
> just do regular PWC's and do not realize how to get the nitrogen cycle
> established in the tank.
>
> With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the best.
> It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
> colony.
>
> It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html )
> or use Bio-Spira (
> http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp ) which can be
bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).
>
> But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you
> are stuck with "cycling with fish" (
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ).
> This requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's
> (partial water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or less,
> until the nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only have to
> keep your nitrates below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.
>
> Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
> keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS
> to know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an
> article I wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help
> new or established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx
>
> Hope this helps you and others.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Hi Lenny,
>
> I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find
> room for a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from
> ammonia. When I cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They
> had only been in there a week. I only fed what they ate in less than a
> minute. Some would get swept down from the filter though and I guess
> that built up. What killed the guppies, I have no idea. I checked the
> water and it was good. All six died though within a week. My female
> betta was in there and she is fine and dandy.
>
> Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
> :)
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Hi again,
>>
>> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
>> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
>> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
>> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21005 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Info on: Terapon jarbua
Thanks you! Is there anyone that keeps these fish? They seem like they are
very curious (sort of like puffers) and will make a nice aquarium pet. If
anyone has any stories about them or their experience with them I'd love to
hear it. You can email me privately if you wish at
crazyforcritters@....

Gayle


----- Original Message -----

these are Brackish fish that get about 15 inches or so


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the previous info. on the Flowerhorn fish...I
really appreciate it!
>
> I am looking for info. on these fish. If anyone has info./links
please email me. I purchased a baby tonight (2") and I would like to
try and get more accurate info. about their adult size, tank
accomodations, etc. I don't mind upgrading down the road but not if
it means I need a 100 gallon tank. The petstore I purchased him at,
didn't know jack! They gave me wrong info...yet again with another
store! I think I will stick to the ONE store that I know that really
does their homework and knows their exotic fish!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Gayle
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21006 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Wow, ok... I was planning on waiting awhile before I
added any more fish to the tank but I might not add
anymore at all since I put the male betta in there.
Do you think ghost shrimp would be ok to clean up the
pellets that sink? I feed one pellet at a time but
sometimes they turn when it's falling.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Hi again Traci,
>
> You really do need to go and read those links I gave you and come back here
> with any questions you may have.
>
> You cannot "cycle" a tank in 24 hours unless using Bio-Spira. "Fishless
> Cycling" takes around a month unless the system is "seeded" first with
> filter media or gravel from a known-healthy tank... then it can happen in as
> little as 10 days or so. Without "help" from seeding or Bio-Spira, it
> usually takes 6-8 weeks to "cycle" a tank using live fish. If you have
> access to healthy filter media or gravel from a cycled tank, then you could
> seed your filter to speed up the process but even then, it would take a few
> weeks. In the interim, until the tank is fully "cycled", you must monitor
> ammonia/nitrite levels and do 25% PWC's as needed to keep the water safe.
>
> The "Happy Betta" book is probably making for many unhappy fish if their
> directions really say that it can be done in 24 hours. Now... if they
> further say that you should be testing your ammonia/nitrites and doing 2-3
> times a week PWC's, then that will usually keep the water safe but it's NOT
> "cycled" in the true sense of the word as used in aquaria for "The Nitrogen
> Cycle". At least not until the entire process has completed and you have a
> healthy nitrifying bacteria colony growing in your filter media, gravel and
> all other surfaces... with most of the N-bacteria living in your filter
> media since that's where the food passes through.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Actually I did cycle the tank for 24 hours. I cycled all four of them. I
> bought the Happy Betta book and went by those directions. That's why I have
> them in tanks now rather than the bowls they started out in.
> They are much better off now. Their colors are more rich and they are more
> active. I place mirrors for the boys on their tanks to boost their self
> confidence.
> The invading fish always leave. LOL They're always the victor. Is there
> anything else that might help?
> I really appreciate your help.
>
>
> I know they don't eat the bloodworms or the frozen brine shrimp I give them.
> I guess they don't know what treats are. They eat their pellets and a tetra
> blend of granules.
>
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
>> understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so that
>> it is safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most people
>> just do regular PWC's and do not realize how to get the nitrogen cycle
>> established in the tank.
>>
>> With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the best.
>> It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
>> colony.
>>
>> It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html )
>> or use Bio-Spira (
>> http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp ) which can be
> bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).
>>
>> But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you
>> are stuck with "cycling with fish" (
>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ).
>> This requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's
>> (partial water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or less,
>> until the nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only have to
>> keep your nitrates below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.
>>
>> Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
>> keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS
>> to know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an
>> article I wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help
>> new or established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
>> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx
>>
>> Hope this helps you and others.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
>> YIPEE!
>>
>> Hi Lenny,
>>
>> I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find
>> room for a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from
>> ammonia. When I cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They
>> had only been in there a week. I only fed what they ate in less than a
>> minute. Some would get swept down from the filter though and I guess
>> that built up. What killed the guppies, I have no idea. I checked the
>> water and it was good. All six died though within a week. My female
>> betta was in there and she is fine and dandy.
>>
>> Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
>> :)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Traci
>>
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>>> Hi again,
>>>
>>> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
>>> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
>>> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
>>> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
>> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>>>
>>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21007 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
I'm not sure how long ghost shrimp would last. You can try it but I think
Bettas find them pretty tasty. Do you have gravel or marbles or what kind
of substrate do you have?

I rescued a Betta from a Hurricane Katrina flooded condo downstairs from me.
He was in a quart sized vase. I put him in a two gallon vase with some
healthy gravel from my tropical tank, until I was able to set up a 10G tank
for him. While in the 2G vase, I was still vacuuming his gravel every few
days because of the same problem... he would miss an occasional pellet and I
didn't want these uneaten pellets fouling the water.

I think you might have a better chance of snails lasting over shrimp. I
also added a few stalks of anacharis stuck down into the gravel to aid in
controlling nitrogenous compounds. And Bettas love resting on plants... so
either live or silk would be the kind to have in a Betta tank. The plastic
plants aren't as safe for their fins.

Here is a little snip about suitable Betta tank mates in a 10G tank (from
Hailey's 10G stocking list -
http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic113304-5-1.aspx)

"...Bettas can be particularly tricky to keep with other fish, so I thought
it best to elaborate on the subject of proper tank mates for bettas. Some
good tank mates for bettas include corydoras, otocinclus, small, peaceful
tetras and rasboras like the ones on this list (some others may not be
appropriate), kuhli loaches, pencilfish, snails, african dwarf frogs (only
one in a 10 gallon), and occasionally shrimp, if the betta doesn't eat them.
Avoid fish of the same color or shape (especially with long fins), fast
swimmers (which I didn't put on the list anyway because they don't do well
in 10 gallon tanks), labyrinth fish, or fish which occupy the top of the
tank like the betta. This rules out gouramis, guppies, hatchetfish, any
species of long finned tetras, and various other fish depending on the color
of the betta you choose..."

Hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 10:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
YIPEE!

Wow, ok... I was planning on waiting awhile before I added any more fish to
the tank but I might not add anymore at all since I put the male betta in
there.
Do you think ghost shrimp would be ok to clean up the pellets that sink? I
feed one pellet at a time but sometimes they turn when it's falling.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Hi again Traci,
>
> You really do need to go and read those links I gave you and come back
> here with any questions you may have.
>
> You cannot "cycle" a tank in 24 hours unless using Bio-Spira.
> "Fishless Cycling" takes around a month unless the system is "seeded"
> first with filter media or gravel from a known-healthy tank... then it
> can happen in as little as 10 days or so. Without "help" from seeding
> or Bio-Spira, it usually takes 6-8 weeks to "cycle" a tank using live
> fish. If you have access to healthy filter media or gravel from a
> cycled tank, then you could seed your filter to speed up the process
> but even then, it would take a few weeks. In the interim, until the
> tank is fully "cycled", you must monitor ammonia/nitrite levels and do 25%
PWC's as needed to keep the water safe.
>
> The "Happy Betta" book is probably making for many unhappy fish if
> their directions really say that it can be done in 24 hours. Now...
> if they further say that you should be testing your ammonia/nitrites
> and doing 2-3 times a week PWC's, then that will usually keep the
> water safe but it's NOT "cycled" in the true sense of the word as used
> in aquaria for "The Nitrogen Cycle". At least not until the entire
> process has completed and you have a healthy nitrifying bacteria
> colony growing in your filter media, gravel and all other surfaces...
> with most of the N-bacteria living in your filter media since that's where
the food passes through.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Actually I did cycle the tank for 24 hours. I cycled all four of them.
> I bought the Happy Betta book and went by those directions. That's why
> I have them in tanks now rather than the bowls they started out in.
> They are much better off now. Their colors are more rich and they are
> more active. I place mirrors for the boys on their tanks to boost
> their self confidence.
> The invading fish always leave. LOL They're always the victor. Is
> there anything else that might help?
> I really appreciate your help.
>
>
> I know they don't eat the bloodworms or the frozen brine shrimp I give
them.
> I guess they don't know what treats are. They eat their pellets and a
> tetra blend of granules.
>
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
>> understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so
>> that it is safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most
>> people just do regular PWC's and do not realize how to get the
>> nitrogen cycle established in the tank.
>>
>> With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the
best.
>> It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
>> colony.
>>
>> It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html )
>> or use Bio-Spira (
>> http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp ) which can
>> be
> bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).
>>
>> But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you
>> are stuck with "cycling with fish" (
>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ).
>> This requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's
>> (partial water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or
>> less, until the nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only
>> have to keep your nitrates below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.
>>
>> Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
>> keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS
>> to know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an
>> article I wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help
>> new or established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
>> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx
>>
>> Hope this helps you and others.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
>> YIPEE!
>>
>> Hi Lenny,
>>
>> I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find
>> room for a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from
>> ammonia. When I cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They
>> had only been in there a week. I only fed what they ate in less than
>> a minute. Some would get swept down from the filter though and I
>> guess that built up. What killed the guppies, I have no idea. I
>> checked the water and it was good. All six died though within a week.
>> My female betta was in there and she is fine and dandy.
>>
>> Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
>> :)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Traci
>>
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>>> Hi again,
>>>
>>> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
>>> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
>>> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
>>> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
>> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>>>
>>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21008 From: Jason Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Hello everyone, my first time posting to this group.

I built an Ecosystem Filtration System out of a 55gl aquarium that now
sits under my 135gl reef.

I have 1" of crushed coral below 1" of live sand, in the middle of the
Eco-Tank I divided a two foot section that houses the crushed coral,
live sand, 5lbs of live rock and 6lbs of Tonga Branch rock; (I read
elsewhere that the tonga-branch might help with keeping phosphates
down) and in this area I grow tons of Chaetomorpha Algae, with the
amount of lighting I use (24/7 light schedule) I need to trim this
stuff monthly.

My nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are zero, phosphates and very near
zero as well.

I have tons of: amphipods, copepods & worms growing in here.

The other two sides of this tank are for Intake and Return Flow,
The intake side was until last week using my Protein Skimmer (rated
for a 150gl tank)

This filtration system appears to be working out great so far, so my
questions are:

1) Should I keep using my Protein Skimmer?
2) Will the Skimmer hinder the supplements I add in any way?
3) Are there any draw backs to 'not' using a skimmer with my
filtration setup?

I read several things about not needing to use a skimmer and since I
have to turn it off each time I feed for 20 minutes or so everyday I
decided to turn it off for now, but I'm not 100% sure this is the
right thing to do aside from saving a little electricity. Which leads
me to this posting for input and suggestions.

When the skimmer was running it would skim pretty well but would not
fill up the cup, maybe because of all the other factors working so
well in my filtration setup? I would empty it weekly and the cup would
only have 1" to 1.5" max, of skimmate.

--Jason, Tampa - Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21009 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Tips on taking care of your tanks
Sparkling clean tanks with less mess and work. I have to do water changes on my big goldfish tank every week.I had to bring in all my pond fish due to the cold, so keeping the tank clean is very important to thier heatlh. I spend about half the normal time cleaning them by using a pthyon cleaning system. The long hose allows me to runthe waste water down the tub or in the summer I direct the water into my roses. My rose just love it. You can see the complete system and how it works at http://www.richdeer3.com Stay warm and keep those tanks clean!


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
Want to start your own business? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21010 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)... YIPEE!
Hi Lenny and everyone else too,

I have gravel and marble mix in the 10 gallon tank.
I n my five's I have gravel only. I do have the silk
plants. That wasn't from knowledge though I just like
the look better. I am not ready to try live plants
now. It's all a bit overwhelming. If I didn't
enjoy watching them swimming around so much I would
think it's too much. I am going to wait still before
I add any more fish. I don't want to kill anymore.

I do vacume the gravel during water changes. I usually
end up changing 50% because I get caught up trying to
catch all the floaties. I check the ammonia regularly
but haven't done the ph in awhile.

Wendy, I finally got to look at your pics you sent and
I understand better what you meant on the sponge. I
think I can set up something similar to that if they
should happen to spawn.

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> I'm not sure how long ghost shrimp would last. You can try it but I think
> Bettas find them pretty tasty. Do you have gravel or marbles or what kind
> of substrate do you have?
>
> I rescued a Betta from a Hurricane Katrina flooded condo downstairs from me.
> He was in a quart sized vase. I put him in a two gallon vase with some
> healthy gravel from my tropical tank, until I was able to set up a 10G tank
> for him. While in the 2G vase, I was still vacuuming his gravel every few
> days because of the same problem... he would miss an occasional pellet and I
> didn't want these uneaten pellets fouling the water.
>
> I think you might have a better chance of snails lasting over shrimp. I
> also added a few stalks of anacharis stuck down into the gravel to aid in
> controlling nitrogenous compounds. And Bettas love resting on plants... so
> either live or silk would be the kind to have in a Betta tank. The plastic
> plants aren't as safe for their fins.
>
> Here is a little snip about suitable Betta tank mates in a 10G tank (from
> Hailey's 10G stocking list -
> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic113304-5-1.aspx)
>
> "...Bettas can be particularly tricky to keep with other fish, so I thought
> it best to elaborate on the subject of proper tank mates for bettas. Some
> good tank mates for bettas include corydoras, otocinclus, small, peaceful
> tetras and rasboras like the ones on this list (some others may not be
> appropriate), kuhli loaches, pencilfish, snails, african dwarf frogs (only
> one in a 10 gallon), and occasionally shrimp, if the betta doesn't eat them.
> Avoid fish of the same color or shape (especially with long fins), fast
> swimmers (which I didn't put on the list anyway because they don't do well
> in 10 gallon tanks), labyrinth fish, or fish which occupy the top of the
> tank like the betta. This rules out gouramis, guppies, hatchetfish, any
> species of long finned tetras, and various other fish depending on the color
> of the betta you choose..."
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 10:09 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
> YIPEE!
>
> Wow, ok... I was planning on waiting awhile before I added any more fish to
> the tank but I might not add anymore at all since I put the male betta in
> there.
> Do you think ghost shrimp would be ok to clean up the pellets that sink? I
> feed one pellet at a time but sometimes they turn when it's falling.
>
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> Hi again Traci,
>>
>> You really do need to go and read those links I gave you and come back
>> here with any questions you may have.
>>
>> You cannot "cycle" a tank in 24 hours unless using Bio-Spira.
>> "Fishless Cycling" takes around a month unless the system is "seeded"
>> first with filter media or gravel from a known-healthy tank... then it
>> can happen in as little as 10 days or so. Without "help" from seeding
>> or Bio-Spira, it usually takes 6-8 weeks to "cycle" a tank using live
>> fish. If you have access to healthy filter media or gravel from a
>> cycled tank, then you could seed your filter to speed up the process
>> but even then, it would take a few weeks. In the interim, until the
>> tank is fully "cycled", you must monitor ammonia/nitrite levels and do 25%
> PWC's as needed to keep the water safe.
>>
>> The "Happy Betta" book is probably making for many unhappy fish if
>> their directions really say that it can be done in 24 hours. Now...
>> if they further say that you should be testing your ammonia/nitrites
>> and doing 2-3 times a week PWC's, then that will usually keep the
>> water safe but it's NOT "cycled" in the true sense of the word as used
>> in aquaria for "The Nitrogen Cycle". At least not until the entire
>> process has completed and you have a healthy nitrifying bacteria
>> colony growing in your filter media, gravel and all other surfaces...
>> with most of the N-bacteria living in your filter media since that's where
> the food passes through.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:38 AM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
>> YIPEE!
>>
>> Actually I did cycle the tank for 24 hours. I cycled all four of them.
>> I bought the Happy Betta book and went by those directions. That's why
>> I have them in tanks now rather than the bowls they started out in.
>> They are much better off now. Their colors are more rich and they are
>> more active. I place mirrors for the boys on their tanks to boost
>> their self confidence.
>> The invading fish always leave. LOL They're always the victor. Is
>> there anything else that might help?
>> I really appreciate your help.
>>
>>
>> I know they don't eat the bloodworms or the frozen brine shrimp I give
> them.
>> I guess they don't know what treats are. They eat their pellets and a
>> tetra blend of granules.
>>
>> Traci
>>
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>>> Since you've been keeping mostly Bettas, you probably do not fully
>>> understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly cycle a tank so
>>> that it is safe for fish. With Betta bowls or small tanks, most
>>> people just do regular PWC's and do not realize how to get the
>>> nitrogen cycle established in the tank.
>>>
>>> With an aquarium, you cannot just throw the fish in and hope for the
> best.
>>> It is a scientific process to establish a healthy nitrifying bacteria
>>> colony.
>>>
>>> It's actually best to "fishless cycle" a tank first (
>>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html )
>>> or use Bio-Spira (
>>> http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp ) which can
>>> be
>> bought here ( http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html ).
>>>
>>> But if you have a new tank and have already added the fish, then you
>>> are stuck with "cycling with fish" (
>>> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html ).
>>> This requires daily testing for ammonia/nitrites and doing 25% PWC's
>>> (partial water changes) to keep them at safe levels at 0.5ppm or
>>> less, until the nitrogen cycle has been completed. Then you only
>>> have to keep your nitrates below 40ppm with your regular PWC's.
>>>
>>> Here is a page that I've set up with what I call the "A to Z of fish
>>> keeping"... a page full of nearly everything a new fish keeper NEEDS
>>> to know, including two online tutorials that you can take. Also, an
>>> article I wrote about Filter Maintenance and Cleaning which will help
>>> new or established tanks from going into mini-cycles.
>>> http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/board/Topic111759-5-1.aspx
>>>
>>> Hope this helps you and others.
>>>
>>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>>> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>>> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 3:54 PM
>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Angel fish spawned again.. (had to share)...
>>> YIPEE!
>>>
>>> Hi Lenny,
>>>
>>> I appreciate your reply. I am keeping it for later on if I can find
>>> room for a bigger tank :) I think the golds probably did die from
>>> ammonia. When I cleaned the tank after they died it was filthy. They
>>> had only been in there a week. I only fed what they ate in less than
>>> a minute. Some would get swept down from the filter though and I
>>> guess that built up. What killed the guppies, I have no idea. I
>>> checked the water and it was good. All six died though within a week.
>>> My female betta was in there and she is fine and dandy.
>>>
>>> Fish are harder than someone might think, aren't they?
>>> :)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Traci
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>>> Texas Instruments
>>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi again,
>>>>
>>>> I already sent my previous reply prior to getting your follow-up
>>>> email. But maybe that information will help someone else on the
>>>> list... especially that article. It's one of the best "short"
>>>> articles on keeping goldfish that I've found.
>>> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>>>>
>>>> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
>>>> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21011 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
First up, let me state that I am not a marine person, so take what I say
with a grain of salt. The purpose of the skimmer is to remove dissolved
organics. It appears to be doing just that. You just don't happen to
have a lot that needs removal at this time. You don't mention anything
about the load in your tank--kind and size of the fish and other
critters that may reside in the main tank. Adding more, or growing what
you have already in there will add to the load, and an increase in the
DOC's. DOC's are also removed by water changes, another thing not
mentioned to us--the timing and amount of water changes. Whether you
need to use the skimmer or not does depend on a variety of factors.
Perhaps you don't need it now, but you may in the future.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jason
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?

Hello everyone, my first time posting to this group.

I built an Ecosystem Filtration System out of a 55gl aquarium that now
sits under my 135gl reef.

I have 1" of crushed coral below 1" of live sand, in the middle of the
Eco-Tank I divided a two foot section that houses the crushed coral,
live sand, 5lbs of live rock and 6lbs of Tonga Branch rock; (I read
elsewhere that the tonga-branch might help with keeping phosphates
down) and in this area I grow tons of Chaetomorpha Algae, with the
amount of lighting I use (24/7 light schedule) I need to trim this
stuff monthly.

My nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are zero, phosphates and very near
zero as well.

I have tons of: amphipods, copepods & worms growing in here.

The other two sides of this tank are for Intake and Return Flow,
The intake side was until last week using my Protein Skimmer (rated
for a 150gl tank)

This filtration system appears to be working out great so far, so my
questions are:

1) Should I keep using my Protein Skimmer?
2) Will the Skimmer hinder the supplements I add in any way?
3) Are there any draw backs to 'not' using a skimmer with my
filtration setup?

I read several things about not needing to use a skimmer and since I
have to turn it off each time I feed for 20 minutes or so everyday I
decided to turn it off for now, but I'm not 100% sure this is the
right thing to do aside from saving a little electricity. Which leads
me to this posting for input and suggestions.

When the skimmer was running it would skim pretty well but would not
fill up the cup, maybe because of all the other factors working so
well in my filtration setup? I would empty it weekly and the cup would
only have 1" to 1.5" max, of skimmate.

--Jason, Tampa - Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21012 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Dale and Graham are stars
NEWFLASH !! NEW PHOTOS !!

Please check out Dale and Graham's photo's.

They are here they are queer check out their photo's !

Thank you :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21013 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
What would make good tankmates for the Target Fish? I know they are brackish, so I was thinking maybe the dwarf cichlids, any suggestions? I need a fish that doesn't get too big but can hold it's own with the Target Fish...

Thanks,
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21014 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/17/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Maybe try scats.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: CrazyforCritters
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 9:19 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???


What would make good tankmates for the Target Fish? I know they are brackish, so I was thinking maybe the dwarf cichlids, any suggestions? I need a fish that doesn't get too big but can hold it's own with the Target Fish...

Thanks,
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21015 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Gayle, While Target Fish can easily get up to 15" or so in the wild,
its seldom that aquarium specimens of any large species attain the
full size of their wild counterparts, unless housed in a large enough
tank. While I don't know what size aquarium you will be maintaining
this fish in long term (unless I missed that part), this fish will be
able to get to at least 10" on average. For that reason, I don't
know why you would be looking for a much smaller tankmate such as a
dwarf Cichlid, even if if could survive in brackish conditions (which
it couldn't for long).

As already pointed out by Sissy, you might consider a Scat
(Scatophagus argus), especially of the variety Rubrifrons; this
species will get equally as large. S. tetracanthus is another
species of this genus, although not as frequently seen. In the same
Family are Selenotoca multifasciatus (Striped Butterfly, or "False
Scat") and its less-often seen cousin, S. papuensis.

You might also look at one of the Mono's (Monodactylus) -- either M.
argenteus or M. sebae (the taller one), which can get to nice
proportions in a large tank. The newer member of this Genus (M.
kottelati - 1991) remains too small to compete with your Target Fish,
as does M. falciformes.

I could well recommend one of the Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnoides), so
named for their attractive striped patterns, having kept a pair of
them many years (40) back, with which I used to place in shows with;
back those years, it was required to show all fish in pairs except in
certain classes such as Catfish, etc. The D. microlepis, which I
had, is the most attractive of them, and the hardiest. D.
quadrifasciatus (also named the Four-Barred Tiger Fish) is a little
more demanding and not quite as good looking although still nice in
its own right.

Do not overlook the Archer Fish (Toxotodae jaculator) which, under
the same conditions as your Therapon jarbua, will also get to at
least 10". Lots of luck with this little guy -- he's a neat one. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> What would make good tankmates for the Target Fish? I know they
are brackish, so I was thinking maybe the dwarf cichlids, any
suggestions? I need a fish that doesn't get too big but can hold
it's own with the Target Fish...
>
> Thanks,
> Gayle
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21016 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
I was under the impression that Cichlids were brackish and could live with a
fish of this type. But I read on a few different pages that the Target Fish
can survive in Fresh, Brackish OR Salt water! I also don't want too many
fish in that tank...

I don't think I will be getting too many fish to live with him, size is an
issue. I really like the Monodactylus and the store had 2 of them
there....so I may take a ride back there in a bit before the sell them.

So, the cichlid question was based on what I thought was possible with what
I read....hmmm.....guess I need to go back and check the salinity of the
tanks! I do know that I've got the levels right for the Target Fish because
I asked them what their level was at before I brought him home.....

Thanks for your help!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Gayle, While Target Fish can easily get up to 15" or so in the wild,
its seldom that aquarium specimens of any large species attain the
full size of their wild counterparts, unless housed in a large enough
tank. While I don't know what size aquarium you will be maintaining
this fish in long term (unless I missed that part), this fish will be
able to get to at least 10" on average. For that reason, I don't
know why you would be looking for a much smaller tankmate such as a
dwarf Cichlid, even if if could survive in brackish conditions (which
it couldn't for long).

As already pointed out by Sissy, you might consider a Scat
(Scatophagus argus), especially of the variety Rubrifrons; this
species will get equally as large. S. tetracanthus is another
species of this genus, although not as frequently seen. In the same
Family are Selenotoca multifasciatus (Striped Butterfly, or "False
Scat") and its less-often seen cousin, S. papuensis.

You might also look at one of the Mono's (Monodactylus) -- either M.
argenteus or M. sebae (the taller one), which can get to nice
proportions in a large tank. The newer member of this Genus (M.
kottelati - 1991) remains too small to compete with your Target Fish,
as does M. falciformes.

I could well recommend one of the Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnoides), so
named for their attractive striped patterns, having kept a pair of
them many years (40) back, with which I used to place in shows with;
back those years, it was required to show all fish in pairs except in
certain classes such as Catfish, etc. The D. microlepis, which I
had, is the most attractive of them, and the hardiest. D.
quadrifasciatus (also named the Four-Barred Tiger Fish) is a little
more demanding and not quite as good looking although still nice in
its own right.

Do not overlook the Archer Fish (Toxotodae jaculator) which, under
the same conditions as your Therapon jarbua, will also get to at
least 10". Lots of luck with this little guy -- he's a neat one. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21017 From: steve Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: anyone here is western pennsylvania
thanks for the info it will be used


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> There are several clubs in your area. Look for the Greater
Pittsburgh
> Aquarium Society (http://www.gpasi.org/). They have a shin-dig
coming up
> in March. It would be worth your while to get to at least that.
>
> If you really want to talk marine fish, take a look for Pittsburgh
> Marine Aquarium Society, whose web site is http://www.pmas.org/.
They
> meet in Monroeville--no idea where that is in relation to you, but,
if
> you figure it out fast, they have a meeting tomorrow.
> If you have an interest in killies, look at the Pittsburgh Area
> Killifish Association. It looks like they have been a bit lax in
> updating their web site, but here it is
> http://shene.killi.net/paka/paka.htm. You can probably write one of
them
> to get more info. These clubs meet in members homes quite a bit,
which
> gives you a chance to check out what they have.
>
> You are likely to find a whole bunch of new friends at any of these
> groups.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 9:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone here is western pennsylvania
>
> just curious if there is and what kinda tanks people keep in my
area
> i don t have any freinds that keep fish my 1 friend use to have a
> tank but when him and his girlfriend broke up he let her keep the
> tank and i believe it was takin down and gotten rid of so now no
> friends with tanks
> maybe this would be a good place to find someone in my area with
> tanks incase of a disaster we could have temperory homes
> i might just have to go out and get a few small tanks though
wonders
> if i should use my coupon to get a brand new 55 gallon tank for 65
> dollars it expires this month but i m affraid if i go and buy it i
> will be tempted to set it up lol
> kinda like how i did with my 29 gallon tank lol
>
> i have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank
> for saltwater i have
> 2 percula clowns
> 2 yellow tail blue damsels
> 1 keyhole angelfish
> 1 royal gramma
> 1 green chromis
>
> fresh water tank i have
> about 5 black skirt tetra
> 1 blue columbian tetra
> 1 red eye tetra
> 1 scissor tail tetra
> 1 bala shark about 2"
> 1 rainbow fish about 2.5"
>
> if anyone here is in my area and in the same sitution that i am
that
> doesn t know anyone else with aquariums that would need a temporary
> home incase of emergency
> as long as there are no predatory fish involved that will eat my
fish
> lol i guess then what would be the point i guess besides you
getting
> live food for your fish
> i don t think any of my fish are predators but i do think my tetras
> like to team up against other fish sometimes lol
> oh no be aware of the almighty tetras such a horrifing group of
fish
> lol but i do think they like to pick on others smaller then them
> lol forget the bloods and the crypts there s a new gang in town
> the TETRAS lol
> well again anyone in my area with the same problem as me with
nobody
> they know has aquariums and are interested in 911 emergency homes
for
> there fish let me know of course this would be a 2 way street
> just after reading some of these posts on this message board i
think
> it would be a good idea to have connections like this
> both of my tanks are newer 3 yrs old or newer so i hope i don t
have
> this problem for awhile or in that matter never have that problem
> talk to you all later have a good day
>
> i am actually located about half hour south of Pittsburgh,
> Pennsylvania really only about 15 miles south but can t go more
then
> 50 MPH
> thanks again let me know
> steve or steve01 here
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21018 From: steve Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Arowana
has anyone here ever kept 1 or have pics of there s if they have 1 i
see them at my LFS once in a while
pretty much all i know about them is that they get big, they will eat
anything that they can fit in there mouth, they are great jumpers, and
the chinese people just absolutely love them they call them dragon fish
i believe or at least what i read and they also believe them to be good
luck
so let s see your arowana s if anyone has 1
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21019 From: Jason Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
Steve,

135gl tank

Inhabitants Include:

(1) Lawnmower Blenny - 3"
(1) Mandarin - 2"
(1) Coral Banded Shrimp - large
(3) Emerald Crabs - medium
(1) Arrow Crab - medium
(2) Peppermint Shrimp - 2"
(1) Blue Starfish - 6"
(1) Brittle Starfish - 6"
(1) Filament Flasher Wrasse - 3"
(1) Yellow Clown Goby - 1"
(2) Ocellaris Clownfish - 2"
(1) Condy Anemone - large
(1) Curly-Cue Anemone - large
(1) Palythoa Button Polyp (75+ polyps)
(1) Pulsating Xenia (100+ branches)
(1) Sinularia Coral (1" tall frag)
(3) Zoanthus Button Polyps (75+ polyps each colony)


Water changes 10% monthly.

--Jason,
Tampa, Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21020 From: Pickles Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Arowana
Hi there Steve,
I did a Google search and came up with the following...hope this helps some...
http://www.arowana.net/
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/wild/arowanas.htm

I do believe some states ban them, (but not sure) so even if your LFS carries
them...make sure they are legal where you live. When I had my shop in Wa. state, one
of my suppliers was from Oregon, and he brought me some baby snake heads. They are
illegal in Wa . and Not in Oregon. IMO those are dangerous fish and shouldn't be
allowed anywhere.The former owner also had a tank of Piranha that I inherited, so
those had to go too. So just because they are in the shop doesn't make them legal to
sell or own....
....Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve" <steve01@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 8:13 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Arowana


> has anyone here ever kept 1 or have pics of there s if they have 1 i
> see them at my LFS once in a while
> pretty much all i know about them is that they get big, they will eat
> anything that they can fit in there mouth, they are great jumpers, and
> the chinese people just absolutely love them they call them dragon fish
> i believe or at least what i read and they also believe them to be good
> luck
> so let s see your arowana s if anyone has 1
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21021 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
As I mentioned, I am not a marine person. However, I can see that at
least several of the critters you list will be getting larger, which
will be placing a heavier load on the tank, which will be more of an
argument to a skimmer than against it. I do know that there are several
marine people who do hang around here, and, perhaps, they can give you a
more specific answer than I can.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jason
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 11:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?

Steve,

135gl tank

Inhabitants Include:

(1) Lawnmower Blenny - 3"
(1) Mandarin - 2"
(1) Coral Banded Shrimp - large
(3) Emerald Crabs - medium
(1) Arrow Crab - medium
(2) Peppermint Shrimp - 2"
(1) Blue Starfish - 6"
(1) Brittle Starfish - 6"
(1) Filament Flasher Wrasse - 3"
(1) Yellow Clown Goby - 1"
(2) Ocellaris Clownfish - 2"
(1) Condy Anemone - large
(1) Curly-Cue Anemone - large
(1) Palythoa Button Polyp (75+ polyps)
(1) Pulsating Xenia (100+ branches)
(1) Sinularia Coral (1" tall frag)
(3) Zoanthus Button Polyps (75+ polyps each colony)


Water changes 10% monthly.

--Jason,
Tampa, Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21022 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Here's a few websites with "lists" of brackish fish. I cannot vouch for
most of these but I will put ** by the ones that are known to be reputable.

** http://badmanstropicalfish.com/brackish/brackish.html (Give full set up
and some cookie cutter stocking suggestions for different sized tanks.)

http://www.aquariumfish.net/indexes/brackish.htm

http://www.peteducation.com/category_summary.cfm?cls=16&cat=1944

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 12:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???

Maybe try scats.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: CrazyforCritters
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 9:19 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???


What would make good tankmates for the Target Fish? I know they are
brackish, so I was thinking maybe the dwarf cichlids, any suggestions? I
need a fish that doesn't get too big but can hold it's own with the Target
Fish...

Thanks,
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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2:25 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21023 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?
In my openion, a GOOD skimmer is a absolute must. I use ASM, they are as good as the Euro at alot less $.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 7:37 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?


First up, let me state that I am not a marine person, so take what I say
with a grain of salt. The purpose of the skimmer is to remove dissolved
organics. It appears to be doing just that. You just don't happen to
have a lot that needs removal at this time. You don't mention anything
about the load in your tank--kind and size of the fish and other
critters that may reside in the main tank. Adding more, or growing what
you have already in there will add to the load, and an increase in the
DOC's. DOC's are also removed by water changes, another thing not
mentioned to us--the timing and amount of water changes. Whether you
need to use the skimmer or not does depend on a variety of factors.
Perhaps you don't need it now, but you may in the future.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jason
Sent: Saturday, February 17, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] To use or Not to use a Protein Skimmer ?

Hello everyone, my first time posting to this group.

I built an Ecosystem Filtration System out of a 55gl aquarium that now
sits under my 135gl reef.

I have 1" of crushed coral below 1" of live sand, in the middle of the
Eco-Tank I divided a two foot section that houses the crushed coral,
live sand, 5lbs of live rock and 6lbs of Tonga Branch rock; (I read
elsewhere that the tonga-branch might help with keeping phosphates
down) and in this area I grow tons of Chaetomorpha Algae, with the
amount of lighting I use (24/7 light schedule) I need to trim this
stuff monthly.

My nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia are zero, phosphates and very near
zero as well.

I have tons of: amphipods, copepods & worms growing in here.

The other two sides of this tank are for Intake and Return Flow,
The intake side was until last week using my Protein Skimmer (rated
for a 150gl tank)

This filtration system appears to be working out great so far, so my
questions are:

1) Should I keep using my Protein Skimmer?
2) Will the Skimmer hinder the supplements I add in any way?
3) Are there any draw backs to 'not' using a skimmer with my
filtration setup?

I read several things about not needing to use a skimmer and since I
have to turn it off each time I feed for 20 minutes or so everyday I
decided to turn it off for now, but I'm not 100% sure this is the
right thing to do aside from saving a little electricity. Which leads
me to this posting for input and suggestions.

When the skimmer was running it would skim pretty well but would not
fill up the cup, maybe because of all the other factors working so
well in my filtration setup? I would empty it weekly and the cup would
only have 1" to 1.5" max, of skimmate.

--Jason, Tampa - Florida






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21024 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Not all Cichlids have the same requirements. Most Cichlids on the
East slope of the Andes come from water the is generally soft and low
in TDS (total dissolved solids, resulting in varying degrees of soft
water. Apistogramma types of dwarf Cichlids in particular do not
like harder more alkaline water, nor do they appreciate water with
high TDS, such as you would have with brackish water.

BTW, the brackish water environment of fish in nature will vary with
the tides, but is generally meant to have a specific gravity of
between 1.006 and 1.015 (sea water can be somewhere between 1.023 and
1.025 at 75o, with some areas going up to 1.027, to give you an
idea). Specific gravity of 1.006 will require about 4 1/8 tsp. of
preferably marine salt mix per gallon. Six (6) tsps. of salt mix per
gallon I believe should give you a specific gravity of somewhere
around 1.010, which I would recommend for long term maintenance of
these fish. If the salinity is kept on the low side with say 4 tsps.
per gallon, you would be able to include Central American Cichlid
species with the Target Fish since they (C.A. Cichlids) enjoy higher
TDS and pH and will tolerate this amount of salt, but I would not
advise it. Depending on your pH, Lake Malawi Cichlids should fair
well too, although this is not the best situation (and Mbuna should
not even be considered in this group).

There is no advantage in trying to keep your Target Fish in a low
salinity just so you can accommodate Cichlids with it. While Target
Fish, just as the many brackish water Gobies (another tank-mate
consideration), may "survive" in fresh water, usually for a more
limited time, for long-term maintenance these fish are best kept in
an average moderate salinity of partial marine water. One reason
they may be said to survive in fresh water is that brackish water can
be very variable, depending on seasonal fresh water run-off into
their environment, but this is merely short term at best. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> I was under the impression that Cichlids were brackish and could
live with a
> fish of this type. But I read on a few different pages that the
Target Fish
> can survive in Fresh, Brackish OR Salt water! I also don't want
too many
> fish in that tank...
>
> I don't think I will be getting too many fish to live with him,
size is an
> issue. I really like the Monodactylus and the store had 2 of them
> there....so I may take a ride back there in a bit before the sell
them.
>
> So, the cichlid question was based on what I thought was possible
with what
> I read....hmmm.....guess I need to go back and check the salinity
of the
> tanks! I do know that I've got the levels right for the Target
Fish because
> I asked them what their level was at before I brought him home.....
>
> Thanks for your help!
> Gayle
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Gayle, While Target Fish can easily get up to 15" or so in the
wild,
> its seldom that aquarium specimens of any large species attain the
> full size of their wild counterparts, unless housed in a large
enough
> tank. While I don't know what size aquarium you will be maintaining
> this fish in long term (unless I missed that part), this fish will
be
> able to get to at least 10" on average. For that reason, I don't
> know why you would be looking for a much smaller tankmate such as a
> dwarf Cichlid, even if if could survive in brackish conditions
(which
> it couldn't for long).
>
> As already pointed out by Sissy, you might consider a Scat
> (Scatophagus argus), especially of the variety Rubrifrons; this
> species will get equally as large. S. tetracanthus is another
> species of this genus, although not as frequently seen. In the same
> Family are Selenotoca multifasciatus (Striped Butterfly, or "False
> Scat") and its less-often seen cousin, S. papuensis.
>
> You might also look at one of the Mono's (Monodactylus) -- either M.
> argenteus or M. sebae (the taller one), which can get to nice
> proportions in a large tank. The newer member of this Genus (M.
> kottelati - 1991) remains too small to compete with your Target
Fish,
> as does M. falciformes.
>
> I could well recommend one of the Siamese Tiger Fish (Datnoides), so
> named for their attractive striped patterns, having kept a pair of
> them many years (40) back, with which I used to place in shows with;
> back those years, it was required to show all fish in pairs except
in
> certain classes such as Catfish, etc. The D. microlepis, which I
> had, is the most attractive of them, and the hardiest. D.
> quadrifasciatus (also named the Four-Barred Tiger Fish) is a little
> more demanding and not quite as good looking although still nice in
> its own right.
>
> Do not overlook the Archer Fish (Toxotodae jaculator) which, under
> the same conditions as your Therapon jarbua, will also get to at
> least 10". Lots of luck with this little guy -- he's a neat one.
Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21025 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Ok, thanks. Right now the salt is on the low side, not on purpose though.
I'm working it up as the petstore had it low to begin with.

I think for now I will keep him alone because the other fish I like (the
Mono's and the Goby's) are not readily available and I'd like to get things
right with this one before adding too many. There are 2 of the Mono Sebae's
at the same store, but they too get on the large side for the tank I have.
Temporarily I have the Target Fish (he's 2") in a 30 gallon. Once again, a
store didn't know the exact information about the fish they were selling and
led me to believe that it would stay smaller than 15+ inches.

I read on one website that you could take the Target Fish from fresh water
and put him immediately into a salt tank and it would not affect him....not
sure how true that is but I find it amazing! I think this guy is going to
stick around for a while and ultimately force me to get a larger tank! LOL

Thanks for all the help! I'm not new to fresh water fish (basic ones) but
with anything "odd" or brackish water I'm definately a newbie!
Gayle



----- Original Message -----
Not all Cichlids have the same requirements. Most Cichlids on the
East slope of the Andes come from water the is generally soft and low
in TDS (total dissolved solids, resulting in varying degrees of soft
water. Apistogramma types of dwarf Cichlids in particular do not
like harder more alkaline water, nor do they appreciate water with
high TDS, such as you would have with brackish water.

BTW, the brackish water environment of fish in nature will vary with
the tides, but is generally meant to have a specific gravity of
between 1.006 and 1.015 (sea water can be somewhere between 1.023 and
1.025 at 75o, with some areas going up to 1.027, to give you an
idea). Specific gravity of 1.006 will require about 4 1/8 tsp. of
preferably marine salt mix per gallon. Six (6) tsps. of salt mix per
gallon I believe should give you a specific gravity of somewhere
around 1.010, which I would recommend for long term maintenance of
these fish. If the salinity is kept on the low side with say 4 tsps.
per gallon, you would be able to include Central American Cichlid
species with the Target Fish since they (C.A. Cichlids) enjoy higher
TDS and pH and will tolerate this amount of salt, but I would not
advise it. Depending on your pH, Lake Malawi Cichlids should fair
well too, although this is not the best situation (and Mbuna should
not even be considered in this group).

There is no advantage in trying to keep your Target Fish in a low
salinity just so you can accommodate Cichlids with it. While Target
Fish, just as the many brackish water Gobies (another tank-mate
consideration), may "survive" in fresh water, usually for a more
limited time, for long-term maintenance these fish are best kept in
an average moderate salinity of partial marine water. One reason
they may be said to survive in fresh water is that brackish water can
be very variable, depending on seasonal fresh water run-off into
their environment, but this is merely short term at best. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21026 From: freidafish Date: 2/18/2007
Subject: can tx of ich cause flex?
I have been treating my tank for ich after stupidly not quarantining a
new comer. Using Quick cure at 1/2 dose (due to neon tetras) three
days in a row and then doing a 25% water change before doing a second 3
day round (as per instructions on bottle) I've also slowly upped the
temp. to 84 degrees and added a little xtra salt.
I have a 46 gal.tank. The only fish I've lost so far was the sick
new comer. I've completed 7 days of quick cure tx and was getting
ready to stop. However, now it seems I have a new problem... I have
two female gouramis showing signs of what I think looks like velvet.
(yellowy coating over parts of the body and fins.) They are still
eating and swimmming. I finally did see one of them flashing.

I was under the impression that the same treatment was given for both
ich and velvet???

I read up on Flex, but the 'coating' is not white
or 'billowy' or 'stacked'. Although, from what I've read the
increased temp and stess of the chemicals could cause Flex on my
labyrinth fish?

Not sure what to do. Can anyone help?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21027 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
While brackish water fish are (and need to be) more tolerant to more
rapid changes in salinity and will adjust faster, aside from what
you've read on any website on being able to put Target Fish directly
from fresh to salt water, I would not recommend doing that. All fish
have a certain "osmotic pressure" within their internal system and
optimally need to to be able to adjust more slowly to reduce shock,
even if they may otherwise "survive" as you are indicating in this
case. As you continue to add salt, do this more gradually; a
teaspoon per gallon per day is not too much, which any fish will
tolerate (except for certain salt-intolerant species like Corys,
etc.).

Since your Target Fish will not be staying at this 2" size but will
be eventually getting larger, I'd suggest not ruling out such
possible tank mates as Mono sebae's, as you'll need heterospecifics
of eventual similar size for them to peacefully coexist.

The Chromide group of Cichlids was mentioned, which I neglected to
include (just plain momentarily forgot), and which might also be
considered as tankmates but although the Green Chromide will get to
as large a size as your Target Fish (12"), the Orange Chromide will
not get much larger than 4" or so. The rarer, third member of this
group, the Canera Pearlspot (Etroplus canarensis) doesn't get much
bigger, topping out at around 5" (if you can find it.).

One interesting thing about two of these Chromides is that in nature
they can have a symbiotic relationship where they are found together,
and the larger Green Chromides will "pose" for the smaller Orange
Chromides to clean them of parasites (on the body, not in the mouth --
lol), similar to what marine cleaner wrasses will do with large
groupers, etc. While you would hope none of your Green Chromides
would have parasites, it might still be interesting to view this
behavior in the aquarium if it were carried out or attempted there.

I really doubt that your Target Fish will get to 15" in captivity,
but you may expect somewhere around 12", unless you're planning on an
exceptionally large tank. Your 30 gallon will do fine for now, but
you'll have to start thinking bigger somewhere in the near future.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Ok, thanks. Right now the salt is on the low side, not on purpose
though.
> I'm working it up as the petstore had it low to begin with.
>
> I think for now I will keep him alone because the other fish I like
(the
> Mono's and the Goby's) are not readily available and I'd like to
get things
> right with this one before adding too many. There are 2 of the
Mono Sebae's
> at the same store, but they too get on the large side for the tank
I have.
> Temporarily I have the Target Fish (he's 2") in a 30 gallon. Once
again, a
> store didn't know the exact information about the fish they were
selling and
> led me to believe that it would stay smaller than 15+ inches.
>
> I read on one website that you could take the Target Fish from
fresh water
> and put him immediately into a salt tank and it would not affect
him....not
> sure how true that is but I find it amazing! I think this guy is
going to
> stick around for a while and ultimately force me to get a larger
tank! LOL
>
> Thanks for all the help! I'm not new to fresh water fish (basic
ones) but
> with anything "odd" or brackish water I'm definately a newbie!
> Gayle
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Not all Cichlids have the same requirements. Most Cichlids on the
> East slope of the Andes come from water the is generally soft and
low
> in TDS (total dissolved solids, resulting in varying degrees of soft
> water. Apistogramma types of dwarf Cichlids in particular do not
> like harder more alkaline water, nor do they appreciate water with
> high TDS, such as you would have with brackish water.
>
> BTW, the brackish water environment of fish in nature will vary with
> the tides, but is generally meant to have a specific gravity of
> between 1.006 and 1.015 (sea water can be somewhere between 1.023
and
> 1.025 at 75o, with some areas going up to 1.027, to give you an
> idea). Specific gravity of 1.006 will require about 4 1/8 tsp. of
> preferably marine salt mix per gallon. Six (6) tsps. of salt mix
per
> gallon I believe should give you a specific gravity of somewhere
> around 1.010, which I would recommend for long term maintenance of
> these fish. If the salinity is kept on the low side with say 4
tsps.
> per gallon, you would be able to include Central American Cichlid
> species with the Target Fish since they (C.A. Cichlids) enjoy higher
> TDS and pH and will tolerate this amount of salt, but I would not
> advise it. Depending on your pH, Lake Malawi Cichlids should fair
> well too, although this is not the best situation (and Mbuna should
> not even be considered in this group).
>
> There is no advantage in trying to keep your Target Fish in a low
> salinity just so you can accommodate Cichlids with it. While Target
> Fish, just as the many brackish water Gobies (another tank-mate
> consideration), may "survive" in fresh water, usually for a more
> limited time, for long-term maintenance these fish are best kept in
> an average moderate salinity of partial marine water. One reason
> they may be said to survive in fresh water is that brackish water
can
> be very variable, depending on seasonal fresh water run-off into
> their environment, but this is merely short term at best. Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21028 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: can tx of ich cause flex?
If the Velvet disease has not yet spread to other inhabitants, you
might want to consider quarantining the two Gouramis now as this
disease is highly contagious. If you suspect the other fish are
starting to contract Velvet as well, its of course better to treat
the whole tank at this point.

As you have surmised, some of our aquarium medications can be used to
treat both Ich and Velvet, but while Velvet needs a certain level of
these medications, such as the Quick Cure that you've used, half-
strength of this medication can effect a cure for Ich relying on a
longer time element.

In the future, know that Ich can be cured by heat and salt alone,
even though there are many medications out there being sold for a
faster cure. The heat/salt remedy is much less stressful even if it
may take longer as the fish are not subjected to stress-inducing
chemicals. Often, these chemicals (medications) cause more stress
than they're worth if you're not sure how they work or what fish they
are compatible with. A temperature of at least 86o should be
maintained for Ich (with the addition of 1 Tbs. of salt per 5
gallons), at which point Ich loses its ability to reproduce. This
temperature should be maintained for a period of 3 days AFTER no
longer seeing any Ich parasites on any of the fish. This may take up
to 10 days or so, but often is cured much sooner.

As for treating the Velvet with the tank full of fish, you can try
Mardel's Coppersafe, although Acriflavin has always been a tried and
true cure for Velvet and has been most effective early on in the
hobby. While this can be found marketed from Kordon, Jungle Lab's
Velvet Guard's (main ingredient -- Acriflavin) additional ingredients
are said to promote an even surer cure. These ingredients include
Dichlorophenyl Dimethylurea, Nitrofurazone and Triethylene Glycol.
Some of these ingredients are meant only to prevent secondary
infections from possible damaged fins, and loss of body slime, etc.,
but the Nitrofurazone is universally beneficial to many infections,
including the Velvet. Make sure you first remove the Quick Cure
medication you initially used by making water changes and temporarily
adding carbon to you filter, before administering the Velvet Guard.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "freidafish" <mallengord@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been treating my tank for ich after stupidly not
quarantining a
> new comer. Using Quick cure at 1/2 dose (due to neon tetras) three
> days in a row and then doing a 25% water change before doing a
second 3
> day round (as per instructions on bottle) I've also slowly upped
the
> temp. to 84 degrees and added a little xtra salt.
> I have a 46 gal.tank. The only fish I've lost so far was the sick
> new comer. I've completed 7 days of quick cure tx and was getting
> ready to stop. However, now it seems I have a new problem... I
have
> two female gouramis showing signs of what I think looks like
velvet.
> (yellowy coating over parts of the body and fins.) They are still
> eating and swimmming. I finally did see one of them flashing.
>
> I was under the impression that the same treatment was given for
both
> ich and velvet???
>
> I read up on Flex, but the 'coating' is not white
> or 'billowy' or 'stacked'. Although, from what I've read the
> increased temp and stess of the chemicals could cause Flex on my
> labyrinth fish?
>
> Not sure what to do. Can anyone help?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21029 From: joe t Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: can tx of ich cause flex?
Sure would be helpful to know what you have in your tank, but, in general a raised temp --- somewhere in the mid- to high 80's -------- and a little salt is all I ever use to take care of ich. (Are you sure it's ich?)

I use this "treatment" for at least a week, provided your tank critters can take it. I'm from the "old school" and if you really don't need that chemical stuff don't use it.

Make sure the high temp don't stress out the guys that can't take it. Just look up their likings in a fish book. If they thrive in cooler water, (low 70s) then that's gonna be torture for them. But it's still better than all that chemical stuff.

If you have plants and they're real touchy, then the salt may bother them. But they usually are not affected by a little salt you can use for this purpose. About 1/2 a teaspoon per gallon is all I use. Doesn't have to be precise.

The neons, poor guys, should have never come to aquariums. They are so sensitive. That's why I won't use chemicals. This is one fish that I absolutely love to dress up an aquarium. Cardinals are even prettier, and even more difficult to keep than the neons. But I think they're worth the effort.

If you don't have a touchy plant situation, you can leave the light off for about three days. That usually helps, too.

If you have read up on it already, you probably know that ich is a parasite. It needs cool water and a weak fish to thrive. If you don't treat it promptly you'll soon have a tank of weak fish, since it sucks their blood. Sooner or later, they're gonna get weak. The ich are so small, you can't see them when they're swimming in the water looking for a host, but that is when they are at their weakest stage. Hence, the warm water which will make the parasite weak and eventually kill them, and the salt as an added attraction to sort of "burn" the ones that are a little stronger.

You won't see results right away. When the parasite if on the fish--the white specks you see----there's not much you can do to it. It's encased in a cyst like sack which protects it. When it's going through it's life cycle and breaks loose from the fish is when it gets zapped by the extra warm water and the salt if you can use it. If you wait too long, you'll probably lose a fish or two, also. But chemical way, or my way, you have to go through the process. With neons or cardinals I would definitely not go the chemical way.

Good luck.

joe t


---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21030 From: Farscape Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: my neons are weird
Sounds like you need to reverse this...

Have your tank lights go off while it's reasonably well lit in the room
(sunlight or lamps), and if you're using lamps in the area, I recommend
dimming the last one down before just turning it off.

Ditto (in reverse) when turning tank lights on.

A sudden turning of the light off makes them think that a bird (or
something) is swooping over, so they dart for cover...

Suddenly turning on the lights is the same with people - it hurts your
eyes - only fish don't have eyelids they can close!

I have read of some species that are impossible to keep if you don't do
something like the above with lighting, as it otherwise stresses them
out too much and they don't live very long at all. (Cannot think of
which species right now, but I did read of it a year or so ago in either
AFM or TFH.)


> On Behalf Of micheal03us
> the room lighting gets decreased in the evening before the tank light
> is turned off. But after they settle they seem to spread out more and
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21031 From: jefftragedy Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: 1977 Dynaflo Power Filter 150
Recently I bought a used aquarium off a listing online. I am REALLY
pleased with my purchase. I am in the process of building a set up for
it. It is a 20 gallon, 30" by 12" by 12".

Also In the aquarium came a bunch of old aquarium heaters, filters,
pumps etc I havent seen since my parents had a aquarium when I was a kid.

I wanted to know if I still can get filter cartiages or set up
instructions

Dynaflo Power Filter 150 - 1977

Metaframe Corporation 1977 A Mattel Company

Magnetic Motor on the Bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21032 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
After all the excitement the Target Fish died today.

I was told that he would eat anything and I read they eat most anything too.
When I first got him I had small feeders in the tank and he ate 2 of them.
I didn't want him to stay in the habbit of eating feeders all the time so I
gave him other things.

I think I killed him by not giving him the feeders. I don't know why he
died. My water was in good condition. I tested everything nothing was off.
I even had the salt at the right level (or at least what it was at the
petstore when I bought him).

I'm sad for him and he was one of my favorite fish.....

Thanks everyone for all the advice/emails about him.....
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21033 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: small unknown fish
yes, I have another question, LOL

In a batch of feeder fish (tuffies) about 2 weeks ago I found a small tan fish that did not have the same body shape as the tuffies.

He swims at the surface, his mouth points upwards as well as his side fins being high on his body (near the surface of the water). He's gotten bigger and now has some markings. His light brown body is now almost transparent in some places with tiny black spots. He also has a black line that goes down from the top of his eye, through his eye to the bottom of his jaw (a straight line).

I did a search and it looks like a Mosquito Fish (Gambusia affinis) except for the stripe on the eye....

I'm attaching a pic, though it's not good quality. My camera isn't working well so I had to use my cellphone camera.

Thanks,
Gayle


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21034 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Did you match the pH and monitor that too? Did you properly acclimate him
to your tank? Was this a new tank or a cycled tank or filter? Did he have
any symptoms before he died?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Save One Computer, Save The World...
Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center on your computer.
http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
Scroll down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan". It checks for and
cleans spyware, virus, trojans, other malware, then defrag's your hard drive
and deletes all temp files. Run it in the middle of the night though as it
takes a while.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 2:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???

After all the excitement the Target Fish died today.

I was told that he would eat anything and I read they eat most anything too.

When I first got him I had small feeders in the tank and he ate 2 of them.
I didn't want him to stay in the habbit of eating feeders all the time so I
gave him other things.

I think I killed him by not giving him the feeders. I don't know why he
died. My water was in good condition. I tested everything nothing was off.

I even had the salt at the right level (or at least what it was at the
petstore when I bought him).

I'm sad for him and he was one of my favorite fish.....

Thanks everyone for all the advice/emails about him.....
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21035 From: hank voss Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: 1977 Dynaflo Power Filter 150
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jefftragedy" <jefftragedy@...>
wrote:

> I wanted to know if I still can get filter cartiages or set up
> instructions
>
> Dynaflo Power Filter 150 - 1977
>
> Metaframe Corporation 1977 A Mattel Company
>
> Magnetic Motor on the Bottom
> ====================
They stopped making those a long time ago. The only way for parts is
getting them used.Just put floss in area above the screened base plate
and your in business.By the way there is a small nylon ball that the
impeller sits on they always wear and the impeller wont turn.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21036 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
Sorry to hear that news; that's a real shame. Hard to say what
caused his death, but I tend to doubt it was due to your feeding him
something else besides feeder fish, unless these "other things" were
really not meant for him, but most anything in the prepared fish food
line that's available should not kill a fish. You haven't said what
else you fed him, but that's a moot point right now. At least you
now know a little more about how to care for these fish and may want
to continue with some other brackish water fish in the near future.
You have a list of some of these candidates. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> After all the excitement the Target Fish died today.
>
> I was told that he would eat anything and I read they eat most
anything too.
> When I first got him I had small feeders in the tank and he ate 2
of them.
> I didn't want him to stay in the habbit of eating feeders all the
time so I
> gave him other things.
>
> I think I killed him by not giving him the feeders. I don't know
why he
> died. My water was in good condition. I tested everything nothing
was off.
> I even had the salt at the right level (or at least what it was at
the
> petstore when I bought him).
>
> I'm sad for him and he was one of my favorite fish.....
>
> Thanks everyone for all the advice/emails about him.....
> Gayle
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21038 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
I matched everything and I took about 2 hours (maybe more) to acclimate him
when he came home. I always take my time and he was acting totally fine.
There was nothing on his body either, no appearance of disease of any type.

The tank has been set up for a while, nothing new, except him. I think I
killed him. :( I feel terrible.

Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Did you match the pH and monitor that too? Did you properly acclimate him
to your tank? Was this a new tank or a cycled tank or filter? Did he have
any symptoms before he died?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Save One Computer, Save The World...
Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center on your computer.
http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
Scroll down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan". It checks for and
cleans spyware, virus, trojans, other malware, then defrag's your hard drive
and deletes all temp files. Run it in the middle of the night though as it
takes a while.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21041 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
What was the pH of the stores water and yours? I'm leaning towards pH shock
since there are no other visible symptoms. How did you "match"
everything... especially the pH? I know we can't bring your little guy back
but don't give up on trying to figure out what went wrong.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 4:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???

I matched everything and I took about 2 hours (maybe more) to acclimate him
when he came home. I always take my time and he was acting totally fine.
There was nothing on his body either, no appearance of disease of any type.

The tank has been set up for a while, nothing new, except him. I think I
killed him. :( I feel terrible.

Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Did you match the pH and monitor that too? Did you properly acclimate him
to your tank? Was this a new tank or a cycled tank or filter? Did he have
any symptoms before he died?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Save One Computer, Save The World...
Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center on your computer.
http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
Scroll down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan". It checks for and
cleans spyware, virus, trojans, other malware, then defrag's your hard drive
and deletes all temp files. Run it in the middle of the night though as it
takes a while.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21042 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Tough luck with the target fish. Don't blame yourself, things happen. He
may have been dead if he was still in the store also.

As for the fish you found in the ruffies, I'd lean toward _Heterandria
formosa_ or a _Gambusia_ species. Look up the aforementioned fish for a
photo.

Attachments are not accepted on this list. Either pos the picture on
your web site or in the files section here and let people know the URL
of it.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 3:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] small unknown fish

yes, I have another question, LOL

In a batch of feeder fish (tuffies) about 2 weeks ago I found a small
tan fish that did not have the same body shape as the tuffies.

He swims at the surface, his mouth points upwards as well as his side
fins being high on his body (near the surface of the water). He's
gotten bigger and now has some markings. His light brown body is now
almost transparent in some places with tiny black spots. He also has a
black line that goes down from the top of his eye, through his eye to
the bottom of his jaw (a straight line).

I did a search and it looks like a Mosquito Fish (Gambusia affinis)
except for the stripe on the eye....

I'm attaching a pic, though it's not good quality. My camera isn't
working well so I had to use my cellphone camera.

Thanks,
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21044 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
It's definately in this family, they all have the same body shape and
coloration. The only difference is that black line down the eye, almost
like eye patches that are vertical (like on Angelfish's).

Thanks again!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Tough luck with the target fish. Don't blame yourself, things happen. He
may have been dead if he was still in the store also.

As for the fish you found in the ruffies, I'd lean toward _Heterandria
formosa_ or a _Gambusia_ species. Look up the aforementioned fish for a
photo.

Attachments are not accepted on this list. Either pos the picture on
your web site or in the files section here and let people know the URL
of it.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21045 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Oh, vertical through the eye. The formosa has a horizontal stripe as I
recall. Unfortunately, I don't have a book handy here for me to flip
through quickly to get some more suggestions for you. Get a book with a
good livebearer section and cruise through the livebearers.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 11:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] small unknown fish

It's definately in this family, they all have the same body shape and
coloration. The only difference is that black line down the eye, almost

like eye patches that are vertical (like on Angelfish's).

Thanks again!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Tough luck with the target fish. Don't blame yourself, things happen. He
may have been dead if he was still in the store also.

As for the fish you found in the ruffies, I'd lean toward _Heterandria
formosa_ or a _Gambusia_ species. Look up the aforementioned fish for a
photo.

Attachments are not accepted on this list. Either pos the picture on
your web site or in the files section here and let people know the URL
of it.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21046 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Cool, thanks! I'll see what I can find online too. I was surprised to find
this fish being sold with the tuffies as a feeder. Not that anyone would
have picked it out since there are sooooo many in the tanks!
Gayle
----- Original Message -----



Oh, vertical through the eye. The formosa has a horizontal stripe as I
recall. Unfortunately, I don't have a book handy here for me to flip
through quickly to get some more suggestions for you. Get a book with a
good livebearer section and cruise through the livebearers.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21047 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/19/2007
Subject: Re: Therapon jarbua TANKMATES???
I had them measure the pH, salinity, etc. in the tank that he came from.
The ONLY thing I can think of is maybe Nitrates or Nitrites were off. I
didn't have them test those. My tank is all within normal range...but I
can't take credit for that, we have great water where we live. I tested my
pH before I left for the store so I was sure I was set. Water
hardness/softness....can't see that being a problem with this fish, but my
water is on the soft side. Don't know the actual number at the moment as I
did a water change and I'm working on the tank again.

I decided for now to just use the tank as a hospital tank and/or for a pair
of Angelfish. Not sure if I have a pair but they appear to need a hospital
tank. They seem to be getting bullied in the 75 gallon. They are new
Angels too....what's funny is that if you watch a school of adult (large)
Angels, they have a pecking order and all the newbies are sort of put on
probation or something. They are not allowed to free swim, until the
original Angels allow it. I have the two new ones that appear weaker or
possibly sick?, so I put them in the 30 gallon since it was empty and ready
for fish. I did a huge water change to decrease the salt content. It's
almost exact to my large tank...maybe about .001 off (gotta double check the
gauge). But it's extremely close. I'll do another water change in a week
or so, but they are swimming around and seem pretty happy now. I also put
in a male and female dwarf gourami as I had 2 pair in my 75 gallon as well.
I think I will keep my tanks stocked on the low side for everyone's
happiness.

Well, for now I'm going to stick with what I know....and do a lot more
research on brackish water fish and see if I want to go there again....

I really, really appreicate the help! I wish I had more to offer, but being
such a newbie to it all, I'm still learning.
Have a good night, I'm off to LaLa Land!

Gayle


----- Original Message -----

What was the pH of the stores water and yours? I'm leaning towards pH shock
since there are no other visible symptoms. How did you "match"
everything... especially the pH? I know we can't bring your little guy back
but don't give up on trying to figure out what went wrong.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
People who haunt places that have a high volume of fish passing through
do find contaminants in batches of fish. Sometimes it takes a sharp eye
to determine that one or two fish are not the same as others, sometimes
it is fairly obvious. In shipments from the wild, the fish often live in
close proximity to each other and a few of the oddballs get caught up
during capture and are not noticed when the fish are sorted, Sometimes
the fish get mixed in somewhere along the path they take to the local
store. Some rare fish have been found this way--rare, perhaps because no
one is looking for them or shipping them in general, not necessarily
rare in the wild.

With domestically raised fish, fish raised in ponds can have
contaminants brought in by birds or other animals introducing them into
the raising ponds. They could get mixed in along the way by finding
their way out of one tank into another tank via jumping or being left in
a net used without cleaning in two or more different tanks.

Hope you enjoy your little one, and maybe find a mate for it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 11:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] small unknown fish

Cool, thanks! I'll see what I can find online too. I was surprised to
find
this fish being sold with the tuffies as a feeder. Not that anyone
would
have picked it out since there are sooooo many in the tanks!
Gayle
----- Original Message -----



Oh, vertical through the eye. The formosa has a horizontal stripe as I
recall. Unfortunately, I don't have a book handy here for me to flip
through quickly to get some more suggestions for you. Get a book with a
good livebearer section and cruise through the livebearers.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21050 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
LOL I had to chuckle at your comment about haunting places with a high
volume of fish....the funniest part is that I spent just as much time at the
same store before I got the tanks as I do now. The difference is before it
was because I was playing with birds, reptiles and small rodents....now I've
just added fish to the mix! LOL

Looking for a mate for him is a good idea, have NO clue how to do that one
other than asking if they can get me one ;)

Have a great day!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

People who haunt places that have a high volume of fish passing through
do find contaminants in batches of fish. Sometimes it takes a sharp eye
to determine that one or two fish are not the same as others, sometimes
it is fairly obvious. In shipments from the wild, the fish often live in
close proximity to each other and a few of the oddballs get caught up
during capture and are not noticed when the fish are sorted, Sometimes
the fish get mixed in somewhere along the path they take to the local
store. Some rare fish have been found this way--rare, perhaps because no
one is looking for them or shipping them in general, not necessarily
rare in the wild.

With domestically raised fish, fish raised in ponds can have
contaminants brought in by birds or other animals introducing them into
the raising ponds. They could get mixed in along the way by finding
their way out of one tank into another tank via jumping or being left in
a net used without cleaning in two or more different tanks.

Hope you enjoy your little one, and maybe find a mate for it.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21051 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
Once you determine exactly what it is, then you can ask here, and look around on aquabid to see if anyone has any they are willing to offer for free, trade, or sale.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] small unknown fish

LOL I had to chuckle at your comment about haunting places with a high
volume of fish....the funniest part is that I spent just as much time at the
same store before I got the tanks as I do now. The difference is before it
was because I was playing with birds, reptiles and small rodents....now I've
just added fish to the mix! LOL

Looking for a mate for him is a good idea, have NO clue how to do that one
other than asking if they can get me one ;)

Have a great day!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

People who haunt places that have a high volume of fish passing through
do find contaminants in batches of fish. Sometimes it takes a sharp eye
to determine that one or two fish are not the same as others, sometimes
it is fairly obvious. In shipments from the wild, the fish often live in
close proximity to each other and a few of the oddballs get caught up
during capture and are not noticed when the fish are sorted, Sometimes
the fish get mixed in somewhere along the path they take to the local
store. Some rare fish have been found this way--rare, perhaps because no
one is looking for them or shipping them in general, not necessarily
rare in the wild.

With domestically raised fish, fish raised in ponds can have
contaminants brought in by birds or other animals introducing them into
the raising ponds. They could get mixed in along the way by finding
their way out of one tank into another tank via jumping or being left in
a net used without cleaning in two or more different tanks.

Hope you enjoy your little one, and maybe find a mate for it.


\\Steve//




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21053 From: freidafish Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: ich be gone
I believe the ich is gone and will in future go with the salt/heat
remedy. Guess I was taking the impatient route and it cost me one
dalmation molly, one platy, and one gourami. :( I'm one of those that
actually names my fish. So it was audios to Bob, Bitsy and Sissy.
I have two platies, one molly, four female gourami, two male gourami
and one betta, and my lil' school of neons left in my 46 gal. tank.
The gourami that died was the one displaying funky yellow color. I
haven't seen any other indication of velvet. But I'll be keeping a
close eye out for that.
Thanks for the info and advice! I'm enjoying this group!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21054 From: Kevin Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: White film on my driftwood
Hello everyone!

I have a thin, milky white film covering a piece of my relatively new
driftwood. Does anyone know what it is? It started flaking off today.

Thanks,
Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21055 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
It's probably some kind of mold/fungus. What did you do to "season" the
driftwood before putting it in your tank?

I always boil mine for hours to make sure any possible pathogen is dead...
even when I buy some online that is already dried out. I doubt that the
distributors/retailers of driftwood do anything to make it safe. Of course,
I live down in N'Awlins and we have crawfish boilers around here so it's
easy to do.

I would use a brush to try and get all of it off of your driftwood. Then do
a series of 25% PWC's, once or twice a day until you have done around 4-5 of
them. That should get any remnants out of your water column. Then do
filter maintenance to get it out of your filter(s).

If it returns, you should take the driftwood out of your tank and do the
boiling thing. If you don't have access to a pot big enough, then put the
driftwood in a plastic tub and soak it in your tap water (if chlorinated),
doing daily water changes to keep the chlorine/chloramine levels high
enough. After it's been soaking in chlorinated tap water for a couple of
weeks, that should do the trick as well. When you put it back in your tank,
add an extra dose of your dechlor product to handle any residual
chlorine/chloramine that might leach from the driftwood.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
online scan on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
(Scroll down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 12:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] White film on my driftwood

Hello everyone!

I have a thin, milky white film covering a piece of my relatively new
driftwood. Does anyone know what it is? It started flaking off today.

Thanks,
Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21056 From: VALENTINA Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
Please sign this petition I put together to collect enough signatures
to get the remaining 3 whalesharks released from the Georgia
Aquarium. On January 12, one of their 4 whalesharks died. They are
not meant to be in captivity, they are too large. They are 1 of 3
sharks on the endangered species list.

I have personally dove with 2 last year (they were 30 and 40 feet
long) and I will never forget what a beautiful experience it was.
Incidentally, they are sharks, not whales.

Send the petition to ALL your friends, it just take 5 seconds to sign
and will not be shared with others.

I FEEL VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT THIS, it means a great deal to me if you
sign this and pass it on.

Thank you, and may God bless all creatures.
VALENTINA (www.ValentinasSecret.com)

http://www.petitiononline.com/back2sea/petition.html


Read about the Aquarium's recent deaths:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6255761.stm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21057 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Harmless... My pleco LOVED IT!!!!


Kevin <kevin@...> wrote:
Hello everyone!

I have a thin, milky white film covering a piece of my relatively new
driftwood. Does anyone know what it is? It started flaking off today.

Thanks,
Kevin






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21058 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Agreed... It is some kind of mold or fungus ...... I did not have a boiler big enough for my driftwood ...but I did do the soak/scrub for like almost 2 weeks

NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote: It's probably some kind of mold/fungus. What did you do to "season" the
driftwood before putting it in your tank?

I always boil mine for hours to make sure any possible pathogen is dead...
even when I buy some online that is already dried out. I doubt that the
distributors/retailers of driftwood do anything to make it safe. Of course,
I live down in N'Awlins and we have crawfish boilers around here so it's
easy to do.

I would use a brush to try and get all of it off of your driftwood. Then do
a series of 25% PWC's, once or twice a day until you have done around 4-5 of
them. That should get any remnants out of your water column. Then do
filter maintenance to get it out of your filter(s).

If it returns, you should take the driftwood out of your tank and do the
boiling thing. If you don't have access to a pot big enough, then put the
driftwood in a plastic tub and soak it in your tap water (if chlorinated),
doing daily water changes to keep the chlorine/chloramine levels high
enough. After it's been soaking in chlorinated tap water for a couple of
weeks, that should do the trick as well. When you put it back in your tank,
add an extra dose of your dechlor product to handle any residual
chlorine/chloramine that might leach from the driftwood.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
online scan on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
(Scroll down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 12:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] White film on my driftwood

Hello everyone!

I have a thin, milky white film covering a piece of my relatively new
driftwood. Does anyone know what it is? It started flaking off today.

Thanks,
Kevin






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21059 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Re: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
Interesting that you did not give us this link
http://www.ajc.com/living/content/living/stories/2007/01/29/0130lvaquari
um.html [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/2h77ye%5d or this one
http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/newsroom/pressReleases/02012007aquariumfi
llsvitalneed.aspx [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/yun9av%5d. Or this one
http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/newsroom/pressReleases/011307Whalesharkne
cropsy.aspx [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/25xx2v%5d to try to get support
for your petition. [The first link now requires registration to read.]

I would at least wait until a cause of death had been determined. At
this point, it seems, this petition drive is driven more by emotion than
any real facts to support the position. One thing I have not seen is an
estimate of the age of the whale shark that died. After all he was large
for a whale shark, based on observations of whale sharks off the coast
of Australia. Could it be he was near the end of his life anyway? I
don't know. I'd also hazard a guess that most people do not know. Not
much is known about these fish in the wild or captivity.

You are, indeed fortunate to have been able to dive with these fish. Not
very many people would have this opportunity. As pointed out by the last
link, however, a tremendous amount of information was gathered from this
whale shark during the necropsy that was done. I'm sure more will be
learned from the others that are in residence at the Georgia Aquarium as
well.

For those who are interested in following up on this topic, just do some
googling around to see what comes up.


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of VALENTINA
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition

Please sign this petition I put together to collect enough signatures
to get the remaining 3 whalesharks released from the Georgia
Aquarium. On January 12, one of their 4 whalesharks died. They are
not meant to be in captivity, they are too large. They are 1 of 3
sharks on the endangered species list.

I have personally dove with 2 last year (they were 30 and 40 feet
long) and I will never forget what a beautiful experience it was.
Incidentally, they are sharks, not whales.

Send the petition to ALL your friends, it just take 5 seconds to sign
and will not be shared with others.

I FEEL VERY PASSIONATE ABOUT THIS, it means a great deal to me if you
sign this and pass it on.

Thank you, and may God bless all creatures.
VALENTINA (www.ValentinasSecret.com)

http://www.petitiononline.com/back2sea/petition.html


Read about the Aquarium's recent deaths:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/6255761.stm
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21060 From: Cicak Man Date: 2/20/2007
Subject: Angel Fish
Hai,
I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions before i bought this unique and beautiful fish.

1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish

Pls guide me

Jega


---------------------------------
Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
http://my.mail.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21061 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: White film on my driftwood
Yup.. I get the same film on some of my newer tanks, newer ornaments,
new tubings etc... as they adjust. you can wipe it off... it will
eventually take care of itself.. and if you have a pleco like the
other member stated.. all the faster.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@...> wrote:
>
> Harmless... My pleco LOVED IT!!!!
>
>
> Kevin <kevin@...> wrote:
> Hello everyone!
>
> I have a thin, milky white film covering a piece of my relatively new
> driftwood. Does anyone know what it is? It started flaking off today.
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21062 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Sexing: Usually.... I can not tell at the juvie stage. Only when
fully adult. I buy a few teenie tiny ones.. let them grow up. and
they pair off naturally. If you buy them big, they will cost. It
only takes a few weeks to a few months for these little guys to grow
up.. BIG. They are a centerpiece to 2 of my planted tanks. I love them.

Food... VARY the diet! Flakes, bloodworms (my angels love these),
frozen brine shrimp are my angels absolute FAVORITE, veggie flakes.

Small shrimp.. probably. When very small.. baby brine shrimp are good.

My angels left most of the ghost shrimp I have alone.. however.. the
shrimp did tend to disappear after a while. They fell prey to ????
whatever fish were in there.. mostly angels. I would not feed them
that (ghost shrimp).

BUT.. the dry, flake and frozen food is best. (like i said.. my angels
go N~U~T~S~O over the frozen brine shrimp! Like dogs to a fresh T~bone
steak!)

My recomendations based on my own experience.

Wendy ;-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cicak Man <rajaonline77@...> wrote:
>
> Hai,
> I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few
questions before i bought this unique and beautiful fish.
>
> 1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
> 2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
> 3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish
>
> Pls guide me
>
> Jega
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
> http://my.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21063 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in time Im sure they will be able
to tell :)

I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms

The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure your tank has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!

Cicak Man <rajaonline77@...> wrote:
Hai,
I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions before i bought this unique and beautiful fish.

1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish

Pls guide me

Jega


---------------------------------
Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
http://my.mail.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21064 From: Valentina Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition
okay, thanks.

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Please help to release WHALESHARKS, sign petition


Interesting that you did not give us this link
http://www.ajc.com/living/content/living/stories/2007/01/29/0130lvaquari
um.html [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/2h77ye%5d or this one
http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/newsroom/pressReleases/02012007aquariumfi
llsvitalneed.aspx [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/yun9av%5d. Or this one
http://www.georgiaaquarium.org/newsroom/pressReleases/011307Whalesharkne
cropsy.aspx [TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/25xx2v%5d to try to get support
for your petition. [The first link now requires registration to read.]

I would at least wait until a cause of death had been determined. At
this point, it seems, this petition drive is driven more by emotion than
any real facts to support the position. ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21065 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in the
bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this is not a
real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a guess or
something.

I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to visit
and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure if I'm
right though, I'm pretty new here!

Gayle


----- Original Message -----

I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in time Im
sure they will be able
to tell :)

I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms

The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure your tank
has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!

Cicak Man <rajaonline77@...> wrote:
Hai,
I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions before
i bought this unique and beautiful fish.

1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish

Pls guide me

Jega


---------------------------------
Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
http://my.mail.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21066 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: small unknown fish
I found a store that had some!!! I am not sure if they are the same species
or if the different sexes have the black on the eye, but I picked up two
Mosquito Fish today!

Thanks for all the help!
Gayle


----- Original Message -----

Once you determine exactly what it is, then you can ask here, and look
around on aquabid to see if anyone has any they are willing to offer for
free, trade, or sale.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of CrazyforCritters
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 7:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] small unknown fish

LOL I had to chuckle at your comment about haunting places with a high
volume of fish....the funniest part is that I spent just as much time at the
same store before I got the tanks as I do now. The difference is before it
was because I was playing with birds, reptiles and small rodents....now I've
just added fish to the mix! LOL

Looking for a mate for him is a good idea, have NO clue how to do that one
other than asking if they can get me one ;)

Have a great day!
Gayle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21067 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
The only way I can tell is if one lays eggs.. it is a female...

then the other one coming up to fertilize the eggs is probably the male

hehehhehehehehe

(hey... tried, but true way)

I Just had to be a smart~a*s! couldn't resist!

(I can never tell till they actually do the deed, I know... I know..
shut up Wendy.)

Wendy :-P

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in
the
> bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this is
not a
> real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a guess or
> something.
>
> I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to
visit
> and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure if
I'm
> right though, I'm pretty new here!
>
> Gayle
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in
time Im
> sure they will be able
> to tell :)
>
> I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms
>
> The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure
your tank
> has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!
>
> Cicak Man <rajaonline77@...> wrote:
> Hai,
> I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions
before
> i bought this unique and beautiful fish.
>
> 1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
> 2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
> 3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish
>
> Pls guide me
>
> Jega
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
> http://my.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21068 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Well, I guess out of 7 Angles, I HAVE to have a least males and females! ;)
LOL
Gayle

----- Original Message -----



The only way I can tell is if one lays eggs.. it is a female...

then the other one coming up to fertilize the eggs is probably the male

hehehhehehehehe

(hey... tried, but true way)

I Just had to be a smart~a*s! couldn't resist!

(I can never tell till they actually do the deed, I know... I know..
shut up Wendy.)

Wendy :-P

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in
the
> bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this is
not a
> real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a guess or
> something.
>
> I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to
visit
> and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure if
I'm
> right though, I'm pretty new here!
>
> Gayle
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21069 From: Wendie Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Check out their vents. The female's will be slightly larger than the male and I believe
the angle is slightly different.
Wendie



----- Original Message -----
From: nrstype2004
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 3:52 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Angel Fish


The only way I can tell is if one lays eggs.. it is a female...

then the other one coming up to fertilize the eggs is probably the male

hehehhehehehehe

(hey... tried, but true way)

I Just had to be a smart~a*s! couldn't resist!

(I can never tell till they actually do the deed, I know... I know..
shut up Wendy.)

Wendy :-P

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in
the
> bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this is
not a
> real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a guess or
> something.
>
> I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to
visit
> and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure if
I'm
> right though, I'm pretty new here!
>
> Gayle
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in
time Im
> sure they will be able
> to tell :)
>
> I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms
>
> The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure
your tank
> has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!
>
> Cicak Man <rajaonline77@...> wrote:
> Hai,
> I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions
before
> i bought this unique and beautiful fish.
>
> 1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
> 2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
> 3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish
>
> Pls guide me
>
> Jega
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
> http://my.mail.yahoo.com/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21070 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/21/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Look at the vent on their bottom. Females look like a pimp as that is the breeding tube for the eggs.


----- Original Message ----
From: CrazyforCritters <crazyforcritters@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 3:15:58 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel Fish

Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in the
bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this is not a
real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a guess or
something.

I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to visit
and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure if I'm
right though, I'm pretty new here!

Gayle

----- Original Message -----

I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in time Im
sure they will be able
to tell :)

I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms

The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure your tank
has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!

Cicak Man <rajaonline77@ yahoo.com. my> wrote:
Hai,
I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few questions before
i bought this unique and beautiful fish.

1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish

Pls guide me

Jega

------------ --------- --------- ---
Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang terbaik
http://my.mail yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21071 From: Patti M Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and
cannot find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had
a 55 gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They
were so neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon
tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin>
But I would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21072 From: Patti M. Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Aquarium Sizes Tables
Found it -

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/tipsandtables/l/bltanksize.htm

Patti

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and
cannot find it. Anyone have that link?


.





---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21073 From: Jessica Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Angel Fish
Hi Im pretty new to the groupe also but ive had angels for many years
and the only true way you can tell is to look at the vet on the angel
but i have become very good at picking males and females from the
shape of there head between there top fin and there mouth the females
tend to be more round and males more straigh. Hope this help you in
choosing.
Jessica
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Joseph Reid <jrreid3rd1@...>
wrote:
>
> Look at the vent on their bottom. Females look like a pimp as that
is the breeding tube for the eggs.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: CrazyforCritters <crazyforcritters@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2007 3:15:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Angel Fish
>
> Wish I could help! I have 7 Angels and other than the difference in
the
> bump on the head, I can't tell which is male or female...and this
is not a
> real way of sexing the Angels from what I've read....more of a
guess or
> something.
>
> I do think though the males are more forward, coming to the tank to
visit
> and soliciting food while the females are a bit shyer....not sure
if I'm
> right though, I'm pretty new here!
>
> Gayle
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I have 6 angels .... I cannot tell the males from females but in
time Im
> sure they will be able
> to tell :)
>
> I feed my angels flake, frozen brine shrimp, and frozen blood worms
>
> The most important thing I can say about angels is ... Make sure
your tank
> has completly cycled before you put them in the tank!!
>
> Cicak Man <rajaonline77@ yahoo.com. my> wrote:
> Hai,
> I would like to buy angel fish and i would like to ask few
questions before
> i bought this unique and beautiful fish.
>
> 1. how i can identifies the male and female angel fish
> 2. What is the recommended and best food for angel fish
> 3. Can i feed small shrimp for angel fish
>
> Pls guide me
>
> Jega
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ---
> Bosan dengan spam? Mel Yahoo! memiliki perlindungan spam yang
terbaik
> http://my.mail yahoo.com/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21074 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/tanks-us.htm

http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm

Those are two of the ones I have in my "Favorites" folder. I'm sure there
are many more.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 8:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21075 From: whjordan83 Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Planted Aquarium Filtration
I have had aquariums for a while and a couple of years ago I got
going with planted tanks while I was working in aquatic plant
research. I would get the root tabs and a few other supplements and
things worked out great for me being a beginner at it. I had done
some reading about people doing different things with substrates in
their tanks.

I have one tank that I have done all sorts of home experiments on so
I decided to try something new. I took the under gravel filter out
and put a layer of peat on the bottom, then a layer of planted tank
gravel( similar to Flourite or Laturite), then the top layer was my
old aquarium gravel.

I have been having issues with keeping my filters clean on this tank
since I did this. I have Penguin 170 BioWheel filter on there. For
obvious reason I cannot use the old under gravel filter so I had to
purchase a second AquaClear power filter. Now I clean out the gunk
from both filters at least 2-3 times a week. I know they are getting
all gunky from the peat, does anyone have any suggestions on what to
use for filtration in this tank without me having to break it down
and start all over again?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21076 From: Aaron Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Are you on the Map?
woo hoo!

looks like most of the group is on there now

have you put your mark on the map?

and when you get a minute, please answer the poll -
there is still only 64 responses, thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "AquaticLife"
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> If you have not visited the group page recently, please check out
the
> new look ~
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/
>
> The map was added in December. It automatically adds your location
so
> we can see where the members and visitors are from. So far, about
> half of the group is on the map.
>
> You can see the same map on the MySpace pages as well ~
>
> MySpace URL: http://www.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup
>
> Group URL: http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife
>
>
>
> And Please ~ Answer the Poll Question Created on Dec 13, 2006 ~
>
> How long have you been interested in Aquatic Life? ><))))º>
>
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls
>
>
>
> Thank You
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21077 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Aquarium Filtration
Had the same problem, AND.. have the same filters!

Penguin 200 and aquaclear 20 (well.. almost the same)

I get so much aquarium "gunk" from the plants and substrate... I had
to do one of two things.. (I do both actually.)

FIRST: I tied a small media bag over the intake of my penguin. The
larger stringy stuff and chunks does not muck up my impeller any more,
or totally screw up my new cartridges I just put in. Saves on
cartridges/media! I use the 3" X 4" bag here, for just over a buck.

http://tinyurl.com/36kkrs

The shape of the biowheel filter is difficult to put a sponge around
it like the aquaclear. This works very well for me on this intake on
the biowheel.

SECOND: on the aquaclear.. I put a prefilter sponge on it. I put an
extra fine pore sponge filter thing I had from my turtle canister
filter. Fits great on the intake valve, and I go a month without
replacing the media/resins/and mechanical sponge in the filter.

The sponge I use for the aquaclear is here.... it is the ZOOMED
Mechanical Filter replacement sponge... Dr. Fosters sells it for
3.99. I'm buying 2 more for my aquaclear filters to use as PRE~filters!

http://tinyurl.com/34ay9d

Now.. with THIS method... I only have to clean the media bag, and the
501 sponge once a week.. IF THAT! Usually... it is more like 2
weeks... as long as my flow rate isn't decreased.

The sponge also provides a wonderful media for beneficial bacteria.

Hope this helps. THis solved my filter issues.. and I've been doing
the planted tanks like this for over 5 years now!

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "whjordan83" <whjordan83@...> wrote:
>
> I have had aquariums for a while and a couple of years ago I got
> going with planted tanks while I was working in aquatic plant
> research. I would get the root tabs and a few other supplements and
> things worked out great for me being a beginner at it. I had done
> some reading about people doing different things with substrates in
> their tanks.
>
> I have one tank that I have done all sorts of home experiments on so
> I decided to try something new. I took the under gravel filter out
> and put a layer of peat on the bottom, then a layer of planted tank
> gravel( similar to Flourite or Laturite), then the top layer was my
> old aquarium gravel.
>
> I have been having issues with keeping my filters clean on this tank
> since I did this. I have Penguin 170 BioWheel filter on there. For
> obvious reason I cannot use the old under gravel filter so I had to
> purchase a second AquaClear power filter. Now I clean out the gunk
> from both filters at least 2-3 times a week. I know they are getting
> all gunky from the peat, does anyone have any suggestions on what to
> use for filtration in this tank without me having to break it down
> and start all over again?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21078 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: Are you on the Map?
You might want to change the color of the bar that indicates what section
you are in to a light blue or something like that…reading yellow txt on a
white background isn’t one of those things that is possible ;-) Looks great
otherwise





Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 10:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Are you on the Map?



woo hoo!

looks like most of the group is on there now

have you put your mark on the map?

and when you get a minute, please answer the poll -
there is still only 64 responses, thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"AquaticLife"
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> If you have not visited the group page recently, please check out
the
> new look ~
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/
>
> The map was added in December. It automatically adds your location
so
> we can see where the members and visitors are from. So far, about
> half of the group is on the map.
>
> You can see the same map on the MySpace pages as well ~
>
> MySpace URL: http://www.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup
>
> Group URL: http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife
>
>
>
> And Please ~ Answer the Poll Question Created on Dec 13, 2006 ~
>
> How long have you been interested in Aquatic Life? ><))))º>
>
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls
>
>
>
> Thank You
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21079 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
I usually refer to http://www.glasscages.com There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does
make some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably
coming from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and
cannot find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had
a 55 gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They
were so neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon
tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin>
But I would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21080 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscages.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs (2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it
down on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscages.com There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21081 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
I'm going to spend 900.00 dollars on my acrylic tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:24:31 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.com)

Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscag es.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs (2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it
down on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare. live.com/ site/en-us/ default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscag es.com. There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank........ .

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti






____________________________________________________________________________________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21082 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
I don't know where you are located, but around here, they come to
several [reptile] shows during the year and you can order a tank and
pick it up at the show. I don't know that I am ready for an acrylic tank
yet, but would not rule one out--especially, as you found out, if it is
shipped.

\\Steve//

P.S. From what I have heard, Windows Live is not yet ready for prime
time.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now
about Glasscages.com)

Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscages.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory
serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have
listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think
I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped
off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs
(2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it
down on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was
like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice
big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much
less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety
Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscages.com There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does
make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably
coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and
cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had
a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were
so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But
I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21083 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
That sounds like a BIG BOY you are getting there!

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 8:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

I'm going to spend 900.00 dollars on my acrylic tank.


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:24:31 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscag es.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs (2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it down
on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare. live.com/ site/en-us/ default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscag es.com. There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank........ .

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti






____________________________________________________________________________
________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo!
TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-->
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21084 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
They will ship the acrylic tanks and since they do not weigh very much, the
shipping isn't that much. Mine came packed tight with styrofoam blocks on
the corners and sheets of styrofoam on all sides plus triple thickness of
corrugated (card) board and then wrapped in multiple layers of plastic wrap.
I felt they did a great job of packaging the tank to prevent normal possible
damage from shipping. I guess if the FEDEX ground truck would have backed
up over it... well, then I would have had lots of pieces of acrylic for
other hobbies.:-\

OT - Reply to Steve's P.S. - As far as the Windows Live, I think it's still
in Beta... but the FREE online scanner works excellent. It's on the same
page as where they are giving the 90-day trial on the Windows Live
service... but it's not the same. It's more thorough than any other FREE
online scan from any of the other AV sites out there. It checks for
spyware, virus, trojans, checks the registry and fixes registry errors,
checks for temp files and deletes them and defrags the hard drive(s) if
needed. For the many people who are not up to par on what their security
should be on their computers, I think it's the easiest thing out there for
them... which is partly why I have it in one of my sigs. I obviously used
the wrong sig when I replied. Sorry.

Lenny Vasbinder

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

I don't know where you are located, but around here, they come to several
[reptile] shows during the year and you can order a tank and pick it up at
the show. I don't know that I am ready for an acrylic tank yet, but would
not rule one out--especially, as you found out, if it is shipped.

\\Steve//

P.S. From what I have heard, Windows Live is not yet ready for prime time.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscages.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs (2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it
down on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscages.com There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank.........

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21085 From: Joseph Reid Date: 2/22/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
90 gallon with a black back and wet dry filter.


----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 10:24:23 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.com)

That sounds like a BIG BOY you are getting there!

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of Joseph Reid
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 8:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

I'm going to spend 900.00 dollars on my acrylic tank.

----- Original Message ----
From: NHSNOLA <nhsnola@gmail. com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:24:31 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about
Glasscages.com)

Hi Steve,

I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscag es.com but from their eBay
store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my memory serves
me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they have listed
there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I think I
got a pretty good deal.

It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten ripped off
when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from stairs (2nd
floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he set it down
on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was like...
"oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a nice big
acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so much less
than glass tanks of comparable size.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@gmail. com
http://www.Neighbor hoodHomeServices .com

Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live Safety Center
on your computer. http://onecare. live.com/ site/en-us/ default.htm (Scroll
down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife @ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

I usually refer to http://www.glasscag es.com. There are a ton of places
around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages does make
some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably coming
from them, unless the wait is too long.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife @ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity

Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and cannot
find it. Anyone have that link?

I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it had a 55
gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They were so
neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon tank........ .

he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!

I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin> But I
would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.

Thanks!
Patti

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love (and love to hate): Yahoo!
TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo. com/collections/ 265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --- Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ------------ --------~ -->
Check out the new improvements in Yahoo! Groups email.
http://us.click. yahoo.com/ 4It09A/fOaOAA/ yQLSAA/ANOolB/ TM
------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -~->

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities.
Links






____________________________________________________________________________________
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21086 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity (now about Glasscages.co
Adding to Steve's comment, there are many locations you can pick
Glass Cages' (Twin Oaks) tanks up from around the country, with
exception of the West Coast, and when dealing with a large thick-
walled glass tank this can save you a considerable amount of money in
shipping especially if multiple tanks are ordered (they do ship glass
tanks as well as acrylic).

Those areas that they attend, where an ordered tank can be picked up,
are: Denver, Co., Arlington, TX, Allentown, PA, White Plains, NY,
Boston, MA, Birmingham, AL, Atlanta, GA, Jacksonville, FL, Savannah,
GA, Tampa FL, L.I., NY, Chicago, IL, St. Louis, MO, Bowling Green,
OH, Cleveland, OH, Columbus, OH, Indianapolis, IN, Raleigh, NC and
New Orleans, LA, for this year. Last year they also included
Philadelphia, PA and also Iowa. While some of these locations will
be reached as many as 5 times during the year, some will only be
attended once as was the case for Denver, CO and Arlington, TX, which
you have already missed. The Allentown, PA stop is coming up in a
couple of days; if not ordering a custom size, you should still be
able to arrange having something brought there. For all the dates
they will be at these locations, just go to their website <<
www.glasscages.com >>. They're based in Dickson, TN; if you prefer
to call, the number is (615) - 446-8877. The place is run by Tom,
Beth and David Fiala, very friendly people. I've bought a dozen
tanks from them and found them to be of excellent quality -- of
these, eleven were a custom size. They're a good tank builder to
consider especially when needing tanks other than the stock sizes,
but they include these as well. Ray

P.S.: When ordering, specify you want "aquarium grade" tanks (to
avoid any possible confusion), as they also make glass terrariums
("dollar-a-gallon"). The glass used for their aquariums is much
heavier.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know where you are located, but around here, they come to
> several [reptile] shows during the year and you can order a tank and
> pick it up at the show. I don't know that I am ready for an acrylic
tank
> yet, but would not rule one out--especially, as you found out, if
it is
> shipped.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> P.S. From what I have heard, Windows Live is not yet ready for prime
> time.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
(now
> about Glasscages.com)
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I got my 65G acrylic from http://www.Glasscages.com but from their
eBay
> store where it was a little cheaper than their website.. if my
memory
> serves
> me right... so do an eBay search for glasscages to see what they
have
> listed
> there as well. I paid $110.00 plus shipping of around $25.00 so I
think
> I
> got a pretty good deal.
>
> It was my first acrylic tank and I swear I thought I had gotten
ripped
> off
> when the UPS or maybe FEDEX Ground guy came walking up my from
stairs
> (2nd
> floor) carrying this huge box by himself, in a bear hug. Then he
set it
> down on my living room floor and it felt like it was empty. I was
> like...
> "oh crap".. I bought an empty box. But after I opened it, it was a
nice
> big
> acrylic tank. It only weighed 25 pounds, packaging and all... so
much
> less
> than glass tanks of comparable size.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> Save One Computer, Save The World... Run the FREE Windows Live
Safety
> Center
> on your computer. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm
(Scroll
> down to middle column, click "Full Service Scan")
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 7:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
>
> I usually refer to http://www.glasscages.com There are a ton of
places
> around, though, where you can find that information. Glass Cages
does
> make
> some odd sizes, though, but when I get another tank, it is probably
> coming
> from them, unless the wait is too long.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Patti M
> Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:08 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] List of Tanks Sizes and Water Capacity
>
> Hello. I had a really nice table of tank sizes and capacities, and
> cannot
> find it. Anyone have that link?
>
> I went to buy a used lawnmower last night and the person selling it
had
> a 55
> gallon tank in his business. It was full of Cichlids (sp?). They
were
> so
> neat! so lively, and there were about 19 in a 55 gallon
tank.........
>
> he had a 150 gallon at home full of them and loved it!
>
> I am thinking about upgrading from my 55 gallon, (and maybe getting
> cichlids) and I haven't even got it cycled or fish in it yet <grin>
But
> I
> would need 48 inch wide, just deeper tank I guess.
>
> Thanks!
> Patti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21087 From: dansant5 Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Hello. I'm relatively new to the list, but not new to the hobby. I
was wondering about the comment that they're going to be in Allentown
PA in a couple of days. What event or show is going on there? If
it's open to the public I might drive over. Any details such as
address & time would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dan


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Adding to Steve's comment, there are many locations you can pick
> Glass Cages' (Twin Oaks) tanks up from around the country, with
> exception of the West Coast, and when dealing with a large thick-
> walled glass tank this can save you a considerable amount of money
in
> shipping especially if multiple tanks are ordered (they do ship
glass
> tanks as well as acrylic).
>
> Those areas that they attend, where an ordered tank can be picked
up,
> are: Denver, Co., Arlington, TX, Allentown, PA, White Plains, NY,
> Boston, MA, Birmingham, AL, Atlanta, GA, Jacksonville, FL,
Savannah,
> GA, Tampa FL, L.I., NY, Chicago, IL, St. Louis, MO, Bowling Green,
> OH, Cleveland, OH, Columbus, OH, Indianapolis, IN, Raleigh, NC and
> New Orleans, LA, for this year. Last year they also included
> Philadelphia, PA and also Iowa. While some of these locations will
> be reached as many as 5 times during the year, some will only be
> attended once as was the case for Denver, CO and Arlington, TX,
which
> you have already missed. The Allentown, PA stop is coming up in a
> couple of days; if not ordering a custom size, you should still be
> able to arrange having something brought there. For all the dates
> they will be at these locations, just go to their website <<
> www.glasscages.com >>. They're based in Dickson, TN; if you prefer
> to call, the number is (615) - 446-8877. The place is run by Tom,
> Beth and David Fiala, very friendly people. I've bought a dozen
> tanks from them and found them to be of excellent quality -- of
> these, eleven were a custom size. They're a good tank builder to
> consider especially when needing tanks other than the stock sizes,
> but they include these as well. Ray
>
> P.S.: When ordering, specify you want "aquarium grade" tanks (to
> avoid any possible confusion), as they also make glass terrariums
> ("dollar-a-gallon"). The glass used for their aquariums is much
> heavier.

SNIP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21088 From: quietari Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Aquarium Filtration
<<Hope this helps. THis solved my filter issues.. and I've been doing
the planted tanks like this for over 5 years now!>>

Hooray more aquascapers! I just got into the hobby about 6 months
ago after spending years raising\tending fish. I had this same
problem, and my solution was very similar to what wendy mentioned
below. I stuffed a plastic plant-root blocker (its a plastic mesh
looking object you stick at the bottom of a pot to prevent soil
leaking out of the drainage hole when you are first planting a plant)
into the intake valve. This helped prevent all that 'macro'
material, hornwort, babyyear, dying wisteria leaves, from mucking up
the actual filter unit, but allowed all the micro debris to slip
easily through (and get filtered by my sponges) and not get caught in
the plastic root-blocker. It also helped my poor shrimp that were
getting sucked up into the intake (amazingly, none died, they seemed
quite happy living in the filter unit)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nrstype2004" <nursetype@...>
wrote:
>
> Had the same problem, AND.. have the same filters!
>
> Penguin 200 and aquaclear 20 (well.. almost the same)
>
> I get so much aquarium "gunk" from the plants and substrate... I had
> to do one of two things.. (I do both actually.)
>
> FIRST: I tied a small media bag over the intake of my penguin. The
> larger stringy stuff and chunks does not muck up my impeller any
more,
> or totally screw up my new cartridges I just put in. Saves on
> cartridges/media! I use the 3" X 4" bag here, for just over a buck.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/36kkrs
>
> The shape of the biowheel filter is difficult to put a sponge around
> it like the aquaclear. This works very well for me on this intake
on
> the biowheel.
>
> SECOND: on the aquaclear.. I put a prefilter sponge on it. I put an
> extra fine pore sponge filter thing I had from my turtle canister
> filter. Fits great on the intake valve, and I go a month without
> replacing the media/resins/and mechanical sponge in the filter.
>
> The sponge I use for the aquaclear is here.... it is the ZOOMED
> Mechanical Filter replacement sponge... Dr. Fosters sells it for
> 3.99. I'm buying 2 more for my aquaclear filters to use as
PRE~filters!
>
> http://tinyurl.com/34ay9d
>
> Now.. with THIS method... I only have to clean the media bag, and
the
> 501 sponge once a week.. IF THAT! Usually... it is more like 2
> weeks... as long as my flow rate isn't decreased.
>
> The sponge also provides a wonderful media for beneficial bacteria.
>
> Hope this helps. THis solved my filter issues.. and I've been doing
> the planted tanks like this for over 5 years now!
>
> Wendy :-)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "whjordan83" <whjordan83@>
wrote:
> >
> > I have had aquariums for a while and a couple of years ago I got
> > going with planted tanks while I was working in aquatic plant
> > research. I would get the root tabs and a few other supplements
and
> > things worked out great for me being a beginner at it. I had
done
> > some reading about people doing different things with substrates
in
> > their tanks.
> >
> > I have one tank that I have done all sorts of home experiments on
so
> > I decided to try something new. I took the under gravel filter
out
> > and put a layer of peat on the bottom, then a layer of planted
tank
> > gravel( similar to Flourite or Laturite), then the top layer was
my
> > old aquarium gravel.
> >
> > I have been having issues with keeping my filters clean on this
tank
> > since I did this. I have Penguin 170 BioWheel filter on there.
For
> > obvious reason I cannot use the old under gravel filter so I had
to
> > purchase a second AquaClear power filter. Now I clean out the
gunk
> > from both filters at least 2-3 times a week. I know they are
getting
> > all gunky from the peat, does anyone have any suggestions on what
to
> > use for filtration in this tank without me having to break it
down
> > and start all over again?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21089 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Dan, Please excuse my comment of "in Allentown, PA in a couple of
days." For some reason I thought today was February 22nd. Glass
Cages is scheduled to be in Allentown on February 24, tomorrow. As
I'm not into reptiles, I don't know what the event is or exactly
where it is being held. You will have to contact Tom at Glass Cages
for these details, and ask him about what time he plans to be there;
sometimes they do not attend the show itself and may get there later
in the afternoon.

I gave both the email address and the phone number, so I'd advise
touching bases with him. When I last met him to pick up some tanks I
had the choice of either Philadelphia or White Plains, living
somewhere between the two. I met him at White Plains (as did many
others), back in June at a prearranged time of 5:00PM. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dansant5" <dansant3@...> wrote:
>
> Hello. I'm relatively new to the list, but not new to the hobby.
I
> was wondering about the comment that they're going to be in
Allentown
> PA in a couple of days. What event or show is going on there? If
> it's open to the public I might drive over. Any details such as
> address & time would be appreciated.
> Thanks, Dan
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Adding to Steve's comment, there are many locations you can pick
> > Glass Cages' (Twin Oaks) tanks up from around the country, with
> > exception of the West Coast, and when dealing with a large thick-
> > walled glass tank this can save you a considerable amount of
money
> in
> > shipping especially if multiple tanks are ordered (they do ship
> glass
> > tanks as well as acrylic).
> >
> > Those areas that they attend, where an ordered tank can be picked
> up,
> > are: Denver, Co., Arlington, TX, Allentown, PA, White Plains, NY,
> > Boston, MA, Birmingham, AL, Atlanta, GA, Jacksonville, FL,
> Savannah,
> > GA, Tampa FL, L.I., NY, Chicago, IL, St. Louis, MO, Bowling
Green,
> > OH, Cleveland, OH, Columbus, OH, Indianapolis, IN, Raleigh, NC
and
> > New Orleans, LA, for this year. Last year they also included
> > Philadelphia, PA and also Iowa. While some of these locations
will
> > be reached as many as 5 times during the year, some will only be
> > attended once as was the case for Denver, CO and Arlington, TX,
> which
> > you have already missed. The Allentown, PA stop is coming up in
a
> > couple of days; if not ordering a custom size, you should still
be
> > able to arrange having something brought there. For all the
dates
> > they will be at these locations, just go to their website <<
> > www.glasscages.com >>. They're based in Dickson, TN; if you
prefer
> > to call, the number is (615) - 446-8877. The place is run by
Tom,
> > Beth and David Fiala, very friendly people. I've bought a dozen
> > tanks from them and found them to be of excellent quality -- of
> > these, eleven were a custom size. They're a good tank builder to
> > consider especially when needing tanks other than the stock
sizes,
> > but they include these as well. Ray
> >
> > P.S.: When ordering, specify you want "aquarium grade" tanks (to
> > avoid any possible confusion), as they also make glass terrariums
> > ("dollar-a-gallon"). The glass used for their aquariums is much
> > heavier.
>
> SNIP
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21090 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Dan, Just to clarify -- the website address for Twin Oaks (Glass
Cages) is << www.glasscages.com >> and their email address for
inquiries is << glasscages@... >>. Their phone number is in my
initial post. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dansant5" <dansant3@...> wrote:
>
> Hello. I'm relatively new to the list, but not new to the hobby.
I
> was wondering about the comment that they're going to be in
Allentown
> PA in a couple of days. What event or show is going on there? If
> it's open to the public I might drive over. Any details such as
> address & time would be appreciated.
> Thanks, Dan
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Adding to Steve's comment, there are many locations you can pick
> > Glass Cages' (Twin Oaks) tanks up from around the country, with
> > exception of the West Coast, and when dealing with a large thick-
> > walled glass tank this can save you a considerable amount of
money
> in
> > shipping especially if multiple tanks are ordered (they do ship
> glass
> > tanks as well as acrylic).
> >
> > Those areas that they attend, where an ordered tank can be picked
> up,
> > are: Denver, Co., Arlington, TX, Allentown, PA, White Plains, NY,
> > Boston, MA, Birmingham, AL, Atlanta, GA, Jacksonville, FL,
> Savannah,
> > GA, Tampa FL, L.I., NY, Chicago, IL, St. Louis, MO, Bowling
Green,
> > OH, Cleveland, OH, Columbus, OH, Indianapolis, IN, Raleigh, NC
and
> > New Orleans, LA, for this year. Last year they also included
> > Philadelphia, PA and also Iowa. While some of these locations
will
> > be reached as many as 5 times during the year, some will only be
> > attended once as was the case for Denver, CO and Arlington, TX,
> which
> > you have already missed. The Allentown, PA stop is coming up in
a
> > couple of days; if not ordering a custom size, you should still
be
> > able to arrange having something brought there. For all the
dates
> > they will be at these locations, just go to their website <<
> > www.glasscages.com >>. They're based in Dickson, TN; if you
prefer
> > to call, the number is (615) - 446-8877. The place is run by
Tom,
> > Beth and David Fiala, very friendly people. I've bought a dozen
> > tanks from them and found them to be of excellent quality -- of
> > these, eleven were a custom size. They're a good tank builder to
> > consider especially when needing tanks other than the stock
sizes,
> > but they include these as well. Ray
> >
> > P.S.: When ordering, specify you want "aquarium grade" tanks (to
> > avoid any possible confusion), as they also make glass terrariums
> > ("dollar-a-gallon"). The glass used for their aquariums is much
> > heavier.
>
> SNIP
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21091 From: joe t Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: about tanks, etc.
If anyone has a PetLand near them you can get a tank pretty cheap if you wait for their "Tank Riot Sale". I'm not sure if it's an annual event or every six months.

Some times the prices are close to a buck a gallon, ($1 a gallon, hehe, just realized someone not from my area may not understand my jargon.) That's damn good.

Catch is, if you want a big tank, you'll have to have your own transportation. Or arrange for someone to get it for you that has a van.

These aren't fancy tanks. Just the oblong ones. They have the fancy ones, too, but they aren't included in with the sale stuff.

joe t


---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21092 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Tomorrow's visit to Allentown, PA, is for delivery only. I would take
that to mean that if you do not already have an order in, you'll not get
a tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dansant5
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now
about Glasscages.com)

Hello. I'm relatively new to the list, but not new to the hobby. I
was wondering about the comment that they're going to be in Allentown
PA in a couple of days. What event or show is going on there? If
it's open to the public I might drive over. Any details such as
address & time would be appreciated.
Thanks, Dan


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Adding to Steve's comment, there are many locations you can pick
> Glass Cages' (Twin Oaks) tanks up from around the country, with
> exception of the West Coast, and when dealing with a large thick-
> walled glass tank this can save you a considerable amount of money
in
> shipping especially if multiple tanks are ordered (they do ship
glass
> tanks as well as acrylic).
>
> Those areas that they attend, where an ordered tank can be picked
up,
> are: Denver, Co., Arlington, TX, Allentown, PA, White Plains, NY,
> Boston, MA, Birmingham, AL, Atlanta, GA, Jacksonville, FL,
Savannah,
> GA, Tampa FL, L.I., NY, Chicago, IL, St. Louis, MO, Bowling Green,
> OH, Cleveland, OH, Columbus, OH, Indianapolis, IN, Raleigh, NC and
> New Orleans, LA, for this year. Last year they also included
> Philadelphia, PA and also Iowa. While some of these locations will
> be reached as many as 5 times during the year, some will only be
> attended once as was the case for Denver, CO and Arlington, TX,
which
> you have already missed. The Allentown, PA stop is coming up in a
> couple of days; if not ordering a custom size, you should still be
> able to arrange having something brought there. For all the dates
> they will be at these locations, just go to their website <<
> www.glasscages.com >>. They're based in Dickson, TN; if you prefer
> to call, the number is (615) - 446-8877. The place is run by Tom,
> Beth and David Fiala, very friendly people. I've bought a dozen
> tanks from them and found them to be of excellent quality -- of
> these, eleven were a custom size. They're a good tank builder to
> consider especially when needing tanks other than the stock sizes,
> but they include these as well. Ray
>
> P.S.: When ordering, specify you want "aquarium grade" tanks (to
> avoid any possible confusion), as they also make glass terrariums
> ("dollar-a-gallon"). The glass used for their aquariums is much
> heavier.

SNIP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21093 From: Jason Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
135gl reef tank wiht 55gl refugium

I dose ESV B-Ionic Calcium Buffer two part system once daily, and drip
(1 drop per second) a 3 liter bottle of Kalk each night. My tank
evaporates one gallon daily.

My calcium levels are on the decline, tested today and it's 225ppm,
where last month it was 275.

PH tested today = 8.6
Alkalinity today = 3.6 or higher, (Red Sea tester shows (2.9 to 3.6) high)

I don't have a coral load in the tank that would be using up all the
calcium, one small sinularia, medium xenia, and some button polyps,
and 6 small fish.

==========================
Questions:

1) Is the B-Ionic 2-part system I'm using not that great ?
2) Why is my calcium levels dropping ?
3) What is a best way to lower PH & ALK, besides using peatmoss ?
4) Will baking soda help, if so how much do I use per gallon ?

I believe I have a missing element in the bonding process of calcium,
whether it be Magnesium, Strontium, or my Alkalinity being so high
that calcium wont stay constant. The B-ionic system has all the trace
elements even the ones I just listed above, however they don't tell
the exact amounts!

I've read so much info online and am now reaching a point of confusion
and hope maybe someone here can shed some light or point me in a
direction that will help me regain control over my calcium levels.

--Jason in Tampa, Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21094 From: dansant5 Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Allentown PA in a couple of days?, WAS (now about Glasscages.co
Ray & Steve,
Thanks for the replies. I didn't intend to buy/order a tank, I was
just thinking that they might be dropping off tanks at a fish auction
event or something, & if so, thought I might attend.
Actually, knowing that the Bucks County (PA) Aquarium Society, which
is over that way, is having an auction on April 14th, I kind of
doubted that there was another fish auction going on this weekend,
but thought it worth asking. Although, I think Allentown is in
Lehigh County.
Thanks Again,
Dan


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Tomorrow's visit to Allentown, PA, is for delivery only. I would
take
> that to mean that if you do not already have an order in, you'll
not get
> a tank.
>
>
> \\Steve//

SNIP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21095 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/23/2007
Subject: Re: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
What kind of substrate are you using, Crushed coral,sand and what brand ?
I like the B-ionic myself, but I also use Strontium/ moly, iodine,and Magnesium on a regular schdule. Kent products.
You might check your test kit, or have a shop test it for you and see if you have a problem with your test kit. My aquariums run 450-650 ppm.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jason
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2007 9:35 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity


135gl reef tank wiht 55gl refugium

I dose ESV B-Ionic Calcium Buffer two part system once daily, and drip
(1 drop per second) a 3 liter bottle of Kalk each night. My tank
evaporates one gallon daily.

My calcium levels are on the decline, tested today and it's 225ppm,
where last month it was 275.

PH tested today = 8.6
Alkalinity today = 3.6 or higher, (Red Sea tester shows (2.9 to 3.6) high)

I don't have a coral load in the tank that would be using up all the
calcium, one small sinularia, medium xenia, and some button polyps,
and 6 small fish.

==========================
Questions:

1) Is the B-Ionic 2-part system I'm using not that great ?
2) Why is my calcium levels dropping ?
3) What is a best way to lower PH & ALK, besides using peatmoss ?
4) Will baking soda help, if so how much do I use per gallon ?

I believe I have a missing element in the bonding process of calcium,
whether it be Magnesium, Strontium, or my Alkalinity being so high
that calcium wont stay constant. The B-ionic system has all the trace
elements even the ones I just listed above, however they don't tell
the exact amounts!

I've read so much info online and am now reaching a point of confusion
and hope maybe someone here can shed some light or point me in a
direction that will help me regain control over my calcium levels.

--Jason in Tampa, Florida






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21096 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Angelfish Fighting????
Just curious about something....

I had two Angels in a tank as they looked like they had mouth rot. One that had been in my tank for a long time was doing MUCH better so I put him back into the 75 gallon. As SOON as I did, another Angel came up to him and and they started (what looked like fighting) mouth to mouth like kissing Gouramis. They would not let go of each other. They were jerking their bodies and bumping into each other....MALES?

I checked their vents like someone mentioned and I can see a huge difference as well as the humps on their heads. I put what I think to be a male and female into the smaller tank. I left the original male with the other females in the larger tank. I think I've got (5) 3 females and 2 males. One of the males is much smaller so I don't think at the moment dominance will be an issue until the smaller male gets mature.

What do you think, definately males? I've NEVER seen Angels fight before!

Now that I separated the two there is no fighting going on.....it was soooo freaky!

Thanks,
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21097 From: Cory Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: YoYo Loaches
I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will do
what I need? Thanks in advance.......Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21098 From: steve Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
YOYO's, pakistani, and kuhli loaches are all fairly common loaches i
can t believe your LFS doesn t have them or can t get them but try the
other 2 i mentioned



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Cory" <wdwwife@...> wrote:
>
> I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
> betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
> clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
> long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
> use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
> besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
> loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will
do
> what I need? Thanks in advance.......Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21099 From: Jason Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Calcium decline with high PH & Alkalinity
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of substrate are you using, Crushed coral,sand and what
brand ?
> I like the B-ionic myself, but I also use Strontium/ moly,
iodine,and Magnesium on a regular schdule. Kent products.
> You might check your test kit, or have a shop test it for you and
see if you have a problem with your test kit. My aquariums run 450-650
ppm.
> Sissy Sathre

In my refugium I have a 2" sand bed with each of the below:

Geo-Marnie CaribSea - Florida crushed coral
http://www.aquaticeco.com//images/items/CC2_rgb.jpg

CaribSea Arag-Alive Sand
http://www.carib-sea.com/media/marine/substrates/aragalive/s00790bag.jpg

=======================
In my display tank I have 1.5" bed of the crushed coral listed above.

-Jason
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21100 From: AquaticElf Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
Greeting to you,

Here is a web address to a person who sells yo yo loaches. I have purchased from this person and he is very good. He sells other fish also and is located near Rochester NY.

http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/
http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/loaches.htm

He does ship through the mail and gives very good service. His name is Dom DoFlorio. His prices are also very reasonable and I see he has these loaches in stock today.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
Join My Yahoo Tropical Fish Club
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
Aquabid.Com for All Your Tropical Fish Supplies
http://www.aquabid.com/


----- Original Message -----
From: Cory
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches


I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will do
what I need? Thanks in advance.......Cory





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21101 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
YoYo loaches get real mean ! It might eat your betta's fins OFF !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: AquaticElf
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches


Greeting to you,

Here is a web address to a person who sells yo yo loaches. I have purchased from this person and he is very good. He sells other fish also and is located near Rochester NY.

http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/
http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/loaches.htm

He does ship through the mail and gives very good service. His name is Dom DoFlorio. His prices are also very reasonable and I see he has these loaches in stock today.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
Join My Yahoo Tropical Fish Club
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
Aquabid.Com for All Your Tropical Fish Supplies
http://www.aquabid.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: Cory
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches

I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will do
what I need? Thanks in advance.......Cory

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21102 From: Birkenhead Blue Bus Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Getting Started
How do,
I am new to this group and to keeping fish, although I haven't got
any yet. I'm not starting out with a 'starter kit', I've been given the
stuff (I think) I need, e.g. filter, heater, small coloured lights, gravel,
plants and a 2 foot by 1 foot tank that will hold water (shock, horror) up
to 18 inches deep in very good condition and clean. My questions to you
are:-

- Apart from ornaments, is there anything else I need?
- How high should I set the heater?
- How much natural light should my tank get?
- If any for the above, what about direct sunlight though a window?
- What sort of fish are good 'starter' fish, and what should I avoid?
- Will a big fish eat little a fish just because it can?
- Are there some fish types that don't / won't mix?
- Should I only get fish from the same shop?

I would ask at the pet shop / aquarium but I feel they would only
tell me to get what they have in stock at the time and any thing else could
be their opinion, whereas here I'll get plenty of opinions, and by reading
them all, plenty of answers.
Yours, thanking you in advance,
Mark.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21103 From: nrstype2004 Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
I would suggest getting a good "aquarium" book. I really liked
"Aquarium for dummies" (one of my first HOW TO books), and any simple
book on setting up a freshwater aquariums.

Your asking a lot of quesitons, and you need a lot of answers on hand.

Here is one site... if you do not wish to buy a book... this one is my
favorite at this time...

http://www.firsttankguide.net/

Here is one more for reading....

http://tinyurl.com/28usme

OH.. one BIG tip.. do NOT buy any fish, until you research about the
fishs behavior first.

Wendy




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Birkenhead Blue Bus"
<birkenheadbluebus@...> wrote:
>
> How do,
> I am new to this group and to keeping fish, although I
haven't got
> any yet. I'm not starting out with a 'starter kit', I've been given the
> stuff (I think) I need, e.g. filter, heater, small coloured lights,
gravel,
> plants and a 2 foot by 1 foot tank that will hold water (shock,
horror) up
> to 18 inches deep in very good condition and clean. My questions to you
> are:-
>
> - Apart from ornaments, is there anything else I need?
> - How high should I set the heater?
> - How much natural light should my tank get?
> - If any for the above, what about direct sunlight though a window?
> - What sort of fish are good 'starter' fish, and what should I avoid?
> - Will a big fish eat little a fish just because it can?
> - Are there some fish types that don't / won't mix?
> - Should I only get fish from the same shop?
>
> I would ask at the pet shop / aquarium but I feel they would
only
> tell me to get what they have in stock at the time and any thing
else could
> be their opinion, whereas here I'll get plenty of opinions, and by
reading
> them all, plenty of answers.
> Yours, thanking you in advance,
> Mark.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21104 From: mantid666@yahoo.com Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Discovery Channel - Message from a friend!
Hi, aquaticlife
A friend of yours, Rich just asked us to pass this along to you.
Here's the link at Discovery.com that they thought you'd be interested in seeing.
http://dsc.discovery.com/news/2007/02/14/purringfish_ani.html
They also included a message for you:
"cool article check it out."
We hope you'll stop by Discovery.com ... and that you'll enjoy the feature that your friend chose for you!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21105 From: Wendie Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
You need to get at least 3 to offset the aggression in them. They will get
large. Mine went from 3/4 of an inch in size to 6 inches in slightly less than
two years.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Sissy Sathre
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches


YoYo loaches get real mean ! It might eat your betta's fins OFF !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: AquaticElf
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches

Greeting to you,

Here is a web address to a person who sells yo yo loaches. I have purchased from this person and he is very good. He sells other fish also and is located near Rochester NY.

http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/
http://rainbowtropicalfish.com/loaches.htm

He does ship through the mail and gives very good service. His name is Dom DoFlorio. His prices are also very reasonable and I see he has these loaches in stock today.

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
Join My Yahoo Tropical Fish Club
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
Aquabid.Com for All Your Tropical Fish Supplies
http://www.aquabid.com/

----- Original Message -----
From: Cory
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] YoYo Loaches

I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will do
what I need? Thanks in advance.......Cory

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

----------------------------------------------------------

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21106 From: Cory Walter Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: YoYo Loaches
I checked with 4 LFS.......none had the yoyo's and 1 told me that if I only had a few snails leave them alone....like they aren't going to multiply into a lot!!!!!


----- Original Message ----
From: steve <steve01@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 3:02:46 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: YoYo Loaches

YOYO's, pakistani, and kuhli loaches are all fairly common loaches i
can t believe your LFS doesn t have them or can t get them but try the
other 2 i mentioned

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Cory" <wdwwife@... > wrote:
>
> I have been trying to find a yoyo loach to get those snails out of my
> betta tank. I cannot find one anywhere. I keep being told to get a
> clown loach. I have been told they stay about 6-7" long up to 12"
> long. I am at the point of confusion, again......I don't want to
> use "Had-a-Snail" after reading on here that it can kill my fish and
> besides I used it once and the snails are back. Please explain the
> loach confusion and is there one that is readily available that will
do
> what I need? Thanks in advance..... ..Cory
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
http://games.yahoo.com/games/front

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21107 From: steve Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
i ll try to help you out a little bit more get yourself a freshwater
test kit if you don t have 1 already
step 1
clean out the aquarium really good with water and a cloth and make
sure you can clean it out really good. some people say use a mild
soap however i would not do that just use water and rinse it out
really good preferably hot water is better(hot tap water)
step 2
find a place where you want to keep your aquarium for a long time
seeing that once it is filled with water you will not be able to lift
it, keep it out of direct sunlight and if you want to get a
background but the background isn t necessary.
step 3
clean off the gravel the best way to do this i find is get a strainer
and put a little bit in the strainer at a time again with hot tap
water and then put in the bottom of the tank usually about an inch or
so is good enough for most freshwater fish
step 4
get some big buckets you can usually find them at walmart big 20
gallon storage buckets these will also come in handy when u need to
do water changes and fill these buckets with water, and add some
kinda water conditioner(aquanova,stresscoat, and the kinda i just
found out about is called genises it is i think the best so far a
little bottle is good for 1000 gallons and only cost about 3 bucks)
add the water conditioner to the water in your 20 gallon buckets or
whatever size you get and let it sit overnight
step 5
clean off all decorations in warm water also and place all
decorations in the tank is some kinda order that you will want them
step 6
use somekinda 1 gallon pitcher and put the water into the tank from
the 20 gallon buckets or again whatever size u buy
step 7
put the filter in and the heater in the water also and plug into a
power strip and then into the outlet you might want to also think
about getting an air pump and air stone and some tubing

this should be enough to get you started it is dinner time and time
for my date so i will post more up here tomorrow if this info helps
you out ok


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Birkenhead Blue Bus"
<birkenheadbluebus@...> wrote:
>
> How do,
> I am new to this group and to keeping fish, although I
haven't got
> any yet. I'm not starting out with a 'starter kit', I've been given
the
> stuff (I think) I need, e.g. filter, heater, small coloured lights,
gravel,
> plants and a 2 foot by 1 foot tank that will hold water (shock,
horror) up
> to 18 inches deep in very good condition and clean. My questions to
you
> are:-
>
> - Apart from ornaments, is there anything else I need?
> - How high should I set the heater?
> - How much natural light should my tank get?
> - If any for the above, what about direct sunlight though a
window?
> - What sort of fish are good 'starter' fish, and what should I
avoid?
> - Will a big fish eat little a fish just because it can?
> - Are there some fish types that don't / won't mix?
> - Should I only get fish from the same shop?
>
> I would ask at the pet shop / aquarium but I feel they
would only
> tell me to get what they have in stock at the time and any thing
else could
> be their opinion, whereas here I'll get plenty of opinions, and by
reading
> them all, plenty of answers.
> Yours, thanking you in advance,
> Mark.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21108 From: rick linboom Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
try reading this http://www.firsttankguide.net/


"and on the 8th Day God created and blessed us with the Chicago Bears" The Bible


































____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with the Yahoo! Search weather shortcut.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#loc_weather
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21109 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started (now OT - Joke)
On Behalf Of rick linboom

"and on the 8th Day God created and blessed us with the Chicago Bears" The
Bible

The recently found "lost" page of Genesis:

"And on the 9th day, God created the Saints... the New Orleans Saints!" (The
Bible)

We'll get you next year! :-D



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rick linboom
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 6:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Getting Started

try reading this http://www.firsttankguide.net/


"and on the 8th
Day God created and blessed us with the Chicago Bears" The Bible
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21110 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 2/24/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started (now OT - Joke)
Since the man upstairs came into the subject and worldly/sports into this, there was this painting on the wall inside a tunnel up in Portland OR take into consideration you need be race car/defensive/etc..... but it said "Trust Jesus, He don't drive" found great humor in it.

Shannon

NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
On Behalf Of rick linboom

"and on the 8th Day God created and blessed us with the Chicago Bears" The
Bible

The recently found "lost" page of Genesis:

"And on the 9th day, God created the Saints... the New Orleans Saints!" (The
Bible)

We'll get you next year! :-D

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rick linboom
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 6:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Getting Started

try reading this http://www.firsttankguide.net/

"and on the 8th
Day God created and blessed us with the Chicago Bears" The Bible






---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21111 From: steve Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Re: Getting Started
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> i ll try to help you out a little bit more get yourself a
freshwater
> test kit if you don t have 1 already
> step 1
> clean out the aquarium really good with water and a cloth and make
> sure you can clean it out really good. some people say use a mild
> soap however i would not do that just use water and rinse it out
> really good preferably hot water is better(hot tap water)
> step 2
> find a place where you want to keep your aquarium for a long time
> seeing that once it is filled with water you will not be able to
lift
> it, keep it out of direct sunlight and if you want to get a
> background but the background isn t necessary.
> step 3
> clean off the gravel the best way to do this i find is get a
strainer
> and put a little bit in the strainer at a time again with hot tap
> water and then put in the bottom of the tank usually about an inch
or
> so is good enough for most freshwater fish
> step 4
> get some big buckets you can usually find them at walmart big 20
> gallon storage buckets these will also come in handy when u need to
> do water changes and fill these buckets with water, and add some
> kinda water conditioner(aquanova,stresscoat, and the kinda i just
> found out about is called genises it is i think the best so far a
> little bottle is good for 1000 gallons and only cost about 3 bucks)
> add the water conditioner to the water in your 20 gallon buckets or
> whatever size you get and let it sit overnight
> step 5
> clean off all decorations in warm water also and place all
> decorations in the tank is some kinda order that you will want them
> step 6
> use somekinda 1 gallon pitcher and put the water into the tank from
> the 20 gallon buckets or again whatever size u buy
> step 7
> put the filter in and the heater in the water also and plug into a
> power strip and then into the outlet you might want to also think
> about getting an air pump and air stone and some tubing (leave this
off for now)
>
> this should be enough to get you started it is dinner time and time
> for my date so i will post more up here tomorrow if this info helps
> you out ok

continued

step 8
now that you have the heater and filter in the tank and your filling
up the tank put water also inside the filter so that you don t burn
up the motor for the filter and continue filling up the tank also
with water till it reaches the black or wood trim piece.
step 9
now plug everything in and verify all parts are working properly
(filter, heater, etc.)
step 10
now arrange your decoration in any order you want to and if needed
bury some of the decor in the substrate(gravel)
step 11
go to the fish store and look at some fish that you like and search
the net for water conditions for the fish you like
most popular fish seems to be tetra s to start off with since the are
fairly hardy fish and many different kinds of tetras
step 12
now that u decided what type of fish you want here is where your
water test kit really comes into play check your ph and make sure it
matches up to the fish you want here is an easy way to adjust your ph
or and alkalinity is buy some sea salt mix(do not use kitchen table
salt) or even a PH & alk. buffer will work fine if you even need it
at all but all fish like a little bit of seasalt in the water even if
it is just a teaspoon or 2
step 13
now let your tank run for a day or 2 after it runs for a day or so
and the tempature of the water is stable now go out and buy yourself
some hardy fish as hardy as you can find i have read black skirt
tetras are very hardy and usually very easy to find at any LFS
now whatever you do do not put the water from the fish store into
your tank
step 14
now it is time to acclimate your hardy fish you will only need 1 or 2
of these hardy fish that you pick out here is what you do keep the
fish inside the bag and float the bag inside your tank with the top
end open and use a little dixie cup and take about half of a the
dixie with tank water and put it in the floating bag with the fish
also inside the bag, and keep doing this every 5 minutes or so for
about half an hour after you do this now get a seperate small
container and slowly dump the fish and the water in a container and
use a fish net to catch the fish and place him in the tank( if you do
this over a sink make sure you close the drain i have heard of people
losing fish down the drain)
step 15
now here is the hardest part of everything waiting and waiting for
about 3 or 4 weeks but during this 3 or 4 weeks you should use your
water test kit and check your water levels ammonia, nitrate, nitrite,
ph, alkalinity, and whatever else your test kit comes withbut your
most important things are your ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite these
levels will go up and down during these 3 or 4 weeks and after your
levels are all down to for your ammonia,nitrate, and nitrite should
all be 0 for a week about and now your tank is "cycled" don t worry
if this cycling process takes longer then 4 weeks either it might
take up to 2 months for it to cycle
step 16
now you can go get your fish and acclimate your fish the same way you
did with your fish 1 or 2 fish whatever you decide to get just make
sure if you want to keep your first 2 fish that the are compatable
with the fish you want like if you want tetras and you started off
with tetras for your cycling fish then you will be fine but if you
decide you want barbs instead of tetras the barbs will likely pick on
the tetras since they are a little bit more aggressive of a fish
i would though recommend a community tank for your first tank and get
some tetras, this fish can be colorful, and also playful to watch and
stay fairly small so even in a smaller tank you can put a few more of
them in then you would with a fish that gets larger
step 17
now enjoy your tank with all your fish swimming around being all
happy this should be enough information to get you started here if
anyone can think of anything i forgot please post it

PS don t forget to get yourself some fish food or your fish will be
very mad at you and probably kill themself
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Birkenhead Blue Bus"
> <birkenheadbluebus@> wrote:
> >
> > How do,
> > I am new to this group and to keeping fish, although I
> haven't got
> > any yet. I'm not starting out with a 'starter kit', I've been
given
> the
> > stuff (I think) I need, e.g. filter, heater, small coloured
lights,
> gravel,
> > plants and a 2 foot by 1 foot tank that will hold water (shock,
> horror) up
> > to 18 inches deep in very good condition and clean. My questions
to
> you
> > are:-
> >
> > - Apart from ornaments, is there anything else I need?
> > - How high should I set the heater?
> > - How much natural light should my tank get?
> > - If any for the above, what about direct sunlight though a
> window?
> > - What sort of fish are good 'starter' fish, and what should I
> avoid?
> > - Will a big fish eat little a fish just because it can?
> > - Are there some fish types that don't / won't mix?
> > - Should I only get fish from the same shop?
> >
> > I would ask at the pet shop / aquarium but I feel they
> would only
> > tell me to get what they have in stock at the time and any thing
> else could
> > be their opinion, whereas here I'll get plenty of opinions, and
by
> reading
> > them all, plenty of answers.
> > Yours, thanking you in advance,
> > Mark.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21112 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Aquarium Videos
OK, you are sitting home on a Sunday afternoon. Not much activity on the
lists today. Snowing, or icing, or raining outside, perhaps in your
corner of the world. What you going to do? How about going to YouTube
and using aquarium as a key word? Here are some of the results that
turned up when I did. And, of course, each video can send you out on
other, similar links.

Have fun.

From YouTube:

Aquarium of the Pacific
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDx0pNT49tQ
Links for many more videos shot at this aquarium will appear when you
view this video.

Moscow Zoo Aquarium
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg_T7nlr4LE
Here is an arrangement of photos I took in 2002 in Moscow Zoo Aquarium.

New England Aquarium
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LF3mH0r5W5s

New unidentified Pleco
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_DWGkEsJ-k

Shelldwellers plus Synodontis
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P6t1g-OuA4&NR

Setting up a large tropical freshwater aquarium
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWdH4APC7Dg
This one is from the British publication Practical Fishkeeping.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21113 From: Rich Date: 2/25/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Videos
Resl cool videos. Thanks,
Rich


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
wrote:
>
> OK, you are sitting home on a Sunday afternoon. Not much activity
on the
> lists today. Snowing, or icing, or raining outside, perhaps in your
> corner of the world. What you going to do? How about going to
YouTube
> and using aquarium as a key word? Here are some of the results that
> turned up when I did. And, of course, each video can send you out on
> other, similar links.
>
> Have fun.
>
> From YouTube:
>
> Aquarium of the Pacific
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDx0pNT49tQ
> Links for many more videos shot at this aquarium will appear when
you
> view this video.
>
> Moscow Zoo Aquarium
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg_T7nlr4LE
> Here is an arrangement of photos I took in 2002 in Moscow Zoo
Aquarium.
>
> New England Aquarium
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LF3mH0r5W5s
>
> New unidentified Pleco
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_DWGkEsJ-k
>
> Shelldwellers plus Synodontis
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P6t1g-OuA4&NR
>
> Setting up a large tropical freshwater aquarium
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWdH4APC7Dg
> This one is from the British publication Practical Fishkeeping.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21114 From: Patti M Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Hi, exciting, I think I am having a bacterial bloom! exciting! I
think that is supposed to happen in the startup cycle.

I AM LOOKING FOR A LIST OF THINGS YOU TEST AND THE RANGE THAT IS
ACCEPTABLE. AND ONE THAT SHOWS WHAT I AM TO EXPECT DURING INITIAL
CYCLING WOULD BE GREAT TOO......<GRIN>. I APPRECIATE IT!

I am writing down all my numbers, on things I am testing. Now will
put them in spreadsheet..

I do have concerns though.........I am testing PH, which is included
in the 5/1 tester kit. Then I test with a ph test kit and then I
have the PH alert in my aquarium where it shows a dot and small
color chart.

Well, the 5/1 kit shows the PH is fine...like at about 7. The PH
test kit shows the PH is off the charts, and the dot alert shows the
highest, a bright red.........

If I cannot get a correct read on the PH in the 5/1 kit, then how
can I trust the other test results in that kit????

I put some tap water in a 2 qt container and will test it after 24
hrs of sitting to see what the ph is........ I tested the water
straight out of the tap and it was high......like the aquarium water.

Also, I will be getting white vinegar today to test the two white
rocks I have in my tank. they were hand-me-downs from the previous
owner. They don't look like limestone, but could be, which would be
increasing the pH.

I did put the dried bacteria in the tank a week ago, and did NOT put
the "piece of shrimp" under the gravel to create the amonia the
bacteria need to grow. not sure if I need to go buy ammonium
hydroxide to give the bacteria what they need to colonize. I will
know more when I go home at lunch today and see the aquarium

I haven't added fish yet. Not sure what I am doing, don't want to
mess up fish! <smile>

that is it for now.
Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21115 From: Patti M Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Motion in tank
Hello again. Another quick question please. my 55 gallon tank has the
emperor 400, but it seems so still to me.........

I think I will put in a bubble wand if I can find one quiet enough.....

I plan to have a clown loach, maybe other loaches too, and understand
they like a stream or flow of water.

Question is, is it necessary to have more water than the Emporer
filter, and if so, will the bubble wand be enough or should I add a
powerhead also.

I do not use a UGF.

Thanks
Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21116 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
believe it or not the emperor 400 should be creating a very good
circulation in your tank
that is what i have
i also have a larger air pump also that has 2 outlets 1 outlet goes
to a 6 inch wand and the other goes to a sunken ship bubbler


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M" <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hello again. Another quick question please. my 55 gallon tank has
the
> emperor 400, but it seems so still to me.........
>
> I think I will put in a bubble wand if I can find one quiet
enough.....
>
> I plan to have a clown loach, maybe other loaches too, and
understand
> they like a stream or flow of water.
>
> Question is, is it necessary to have more water than the Emporer
> filter, and if so, will the bubble wand be enough or should I add a
> powerhead also.
>
> I do not use a UGF.
>
> Thanks
> Patti
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21117 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
False alarm, no bloom. What looks to be like those bacteria I put in, are floating around in the water. The water is not murky though otherwise....

hmmm.

Guess I will go to LFS and see if he has ammonium........

Patti M

Patti M <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
Hi, exciting, I think I am having a bacterial bloom! exciting! I
think that is supposed to happen in the startup cycle.

I AM LOOKING FOR A LIST OF THINGS YOU TEST AND THE RANGE THAT IS
ACCEPTABLE. AND ONE THAT SHOWS WHAT I AM TO EXPECT DURING INITIAL
CYCLING WOULD BE GREAT TOO......<GRIN>. I APPRECIATE IT!

I am writing down all my numbers, on things I am testing. Now will
put them in spreadsheet..

I do have concerns though.........I am testing PH, which is included
in the 5/1 tester kit. Then I test with a ph test kit and then I
have the PH alert in my aquarium where it shows a dot and small
color chart.

Well, the 5/1 kit shows the PH is fine...like at about 7. The PH
test kit shows the PH is off the charts, and the dot alert shows the
highest, a bright red.........

If I cannot get a correct read on the PH in the 5/1 kit, then how
can I trust the other test results in that kit????

I put some tap water in a 2 qt container and will test it after 24
hrs of sitting to see what the ph is........ I tested the water
straight out of the tap and it was high......like the aquarium water.

Also, I will be getting white vinegar today to test the two white
rocks I have in my tank. they were hand-me-downs from the previous
owner. They don't look like limestone, but could be, which would be
increasing the pH.

I did put the dried bacteria in the tank a week ago, and did NOT put
the "piece of shrimp" under the gravel to create the amonia the
bacteria need to grow. not sure if I need to go buy ammonium
hydroxide to give the bacteria what they need to colonize. I will
know more when I go home at lunch today and see the aquarium

I haven't added fish yet. Not sure what I am doing, don't want to
mess up fish! <smile>

that is it for now.
Patti M






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21118 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
This emperor 400 is louder than I expected. It was even louder but I played around with it and got it to be reasonable.

But, you definately know there is water in that living room, LOL.

I have a two ended air pump to use, that should be enough then with the wand and I have a lighthouse.

Maybe I will just get the wand and try that first.......with the air pump.

Thanks Steve.
Patti M



steve <steve01@...> wrote:
.

_,_._,___


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21119 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
that is weird is it brand new emperor filter or is it used the only
time i can hear water is if i don t have the water level up to the
output of the filter or the lip i guess you could call it too and my
filter is about 2-3 years old and no parts are replaced either try
these steps first unplug the filter and refill it with water till it
starts draining in the tank then hurry and plug it back in and
continue to fill it with water once it is running after you do that
it might make some noise at first but play around with the grey lever
in the middle that lifts up and down, pump it up and down a few times
and that should correct the filter if that doesn t work then you
might want to get in contact with the people you brought it from and
see if you can get it replaced.
i am just letting you know how mine is sometimes like when i do water
changes and turn it off and then turn it back on it is loud till it
is filled up with water and u can fill it up with water from the tank
yourself if you don t do that the motor or pump will burn out i don t
think is says that in instructions for filters it is just something
the manufacturer expects you to know i think i hope this helps you

your welcome

steve



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> This emperor 400 is louder than I expected. It was even louder but
I played around with it and got it to be reasonable.
>
> But, you definately know there is water in that living room, LOL.
>
> I have a two ended air pump to use, that should be enough then
with the wand and I have a lighthouse.
>
> Maybe I will just get the wand and try that first.......with the
air pump.
>
> Thanks Steve.
> Patti M
>
>
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> .
>
> _,_._,___
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21120 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: A simpler way to get started
The last post on this subject was very good but there are some easier ways to set up your tank.
Buy all your supplies before you start.
Test kit- Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite all in one strips are easiest for a beginner's to read
Water conditioner-Easy balance is a good beginning product or STRESS COAT
Gavel- enough to cover the bottom by 1-1/2 inches.
Gavel should only be rinsed in warm water. You don't have to have a strainer to do this just full a small bucket or large bowl. Put a couple of cups of gravel in the bowl and stir the gravel while you run water over the gravel the junk will float out of the gravel. If you think there was diseases or too much algae in the old tank you can add a couple of tablespoons on NON iodine salt table salt is fine for cleaning equipment.
Lights- plant light only if you plan on live plants. You may want to start off with fake plants until you have the tank cycled and have your fish stable. Light should be on 10-14 hours a day. There are timers available.
Ornaments- no sharp edges, no raw driftwood or seashells. If you want to use those things research how to prepare them so they are safe in your tank. Hiding places are good but only if you place them so you can view which fish are inside the hiding place so you don't let dead fish decay without noticing.
Air pump, clear tubing, bubble bar or air stones- Use a air pump that fits the size of your tank. Be sure that the tubing has a drip loop so your tank isn't accendentally drained if the hose comes loose. let part of the hose hang below the level of the pump.
Filter- Clean the filter you have well then replace the filter media. To start the pump you must prime it or it will burn out the filter. Check the impeller is free of anything. If there is something stuck use a seam ripper or an eyeglass screwdriver to free up the impeller.
Heater- should be sized for the tank. Should be adjustable but the newer heaters are often submersible and preset.

See the second post for setting up the actual tank


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21121 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Setting up the tank


Level the stand where you want it the stay. Never move a tank with more than a couple of inches of water so be sure where you want the tank. Don't place it next to TVs etc, not directly in front of the window. Windows tend to cause problems with too much light and temp fluctuations.
Add the gravel- don't add ornaments yet
Pour in 1/3 -1/2 of the water - some junk may float to the top just fish it out with a net.
Put in ornaments, air stones- place them so you can see inside of any castles, avoids dead fish being overlooked
Fill the tank Pouring the water in your hand first so you don't move around the gravel.
Hook up the filter, air pumps, heaters lug them into a GROUNDED POWER STRIP
Leave a loop of tubing below the air pump so if the water drips down it does not go into the power strip.
Set the temp at 72-76 degrees
Prime and turn on the filter, turn on the air pump
Add the water conditioners even though it is not critical for the water to set 24 hours it is highly advisable.

After the tank has be setup 24 hours you can add your fish.

Selecting fish- you should get your fish from a reliable store that give at least a 72 hour guarantee. Walmarts normally have a 90 day guarantee if you save the bag, receipt and dead fish. ( you can freeze the fish until your next walmart run). As far as suggestions walmart codes there fish as to compatibiulity. The last number of the price is the same if the fish get along IE all fish that end in 8 belong toghether. But be sure you get a walmart that has trained staff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Never ever ever use marine salt on fresh water fish. Make sure the fish you chose need aquarium salt before adding it.


Good luck and Keep us posted, Gail owner of Richeer3Pondsupplies and former pet store attendant





Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21122 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Clown loaches get too big for a 55G and should be kept in a school of at
least five. They are supposed to get up to 20" but usually only reach 12"
in most aquariums due to stunting issues. Here is Mongabay's profile on
them.
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html

You can check out the profiles on your other proposed loaches/fish to see
what would be best and compatible with your planned tank.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Motion in tank

Hello again. Another quick question please. my 55 gallon tank has the
emperor 400, but it seems so still to me.........

I think I will put in a bubble wand if I can find one quiet enough.....

I plan to have a clown loach, maybe other loaches too, and understand they
like a stream or flow of water.

Question is, is it necessary to have more water than the Emporer filter, and
if so, will the bubble wand be enough or should I add a powerhead also.

I do not use a UGF.

Thanks
Patti



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21123 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
Those 5 in 1 test strips leave a lot to be desired as far as accuracy
goes... at least in my experience with them. You should get a decent Master
Test Kit that uses test tubes and reagent drops. I use API's Freshwater
Master Test Kit (around $15.00 online at PetsMart.com and other places... if
you print their online page, the local PetsMart will match the price... at
least mine does. Their shelf price is $25.00 for the same kit.) There are
other brands of master test kits also.

There is no "cheat sheet" for fish keeping but here is an online tutorial
http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html that you can take. It's 90%+ accurate and
any questions you have, just ask them here and we'll explain further.

You are doing the right thing with "fishless cycling" but using Bio-Spira
(for a near instant "fishless cycle" or the clear/plain ammonia would be
easier than the shrimp and other stuff. If you have an Ace Hardware store
in your area, they sell their own private label ammonia that is the
plain/clear type that you need for "fishless cycling".

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 11:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cheat Sheet? for newbies

Hi, exciting, I think I am having a bacterial bloom! exciting! I think that
is supposed to happen in the startup cycle.

I AM LOOKING FOR A LIST OF THINGS YOU TEST AND THE RANGE THAT IS ACCEPTABLE.
AND ONE THAT SHOWS WHAT I AM TO EXPECT DURING INITIAL CYCLING WOULD BE GREAT
TOO......<GRIN>. I APPRECIATE IT!

I am writing down all my numbers, on things I am testing. Now will put them
in spreadsheet..

I do have concerns though.........I am testing PH, which is included in the
5/1 tester kit. Then I test with a ph test kit and then I have the PH alert
in my aquarium where it shows a dot and small color chart.

Well, the 5/1 kit shows the PH is fine...like at about 7. The PH test kit
shows the PH is off the charts, and the dot alert shows the highest, a
bright red.........

If I cannot get a correct read on the PH in the 5/1 kit, then how can I
trust the other test results in that kit????

I put some tap water in a 2 qt container and will test it after 24 hrs of
sitting to see what the ph is........ I tested the water straight out of
the tap and it was high......like the aquarium water.

Also, I will be getting white vinegar today to test the two white rocks I
have in my tank. they were hand-me-downs from the previous owner. They
don't look like limestone, but could be, which would be increasing the pH.

I did put the dried bacteria in the tank a week ago, and did NOT put the
"piece of shrimp" under the gravel to create the amonia the bacteria need to
grow. not sure if I need to go buy ammonium hydroxide to give the bacteria
what they need to colonize. I will know more when I go home at lunch today
and see the aquarium

I haven't added fish yet. Not sure what I am doing, don't want to mess up
fish! <smile>

that is it for now.
Patti M







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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21124 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Hi Gail,
You may want to add, "Don't place the tank near your computer monitor".
One splash when I was making a water change and I was out monitor shopping.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: iowakoi@...
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 12:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2


Don't place it next to TVs etc, not directly in front of the window. Windows tend to cause problems with too much light and temp fluctuations.

Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com

.

________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21125 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Oops! I never thought about that when I set up my 2 last tanks..... The 29
gal is less than 4 feet away and the Betta in his 2 gal is on a filing
cabinet 4 feet away in another direction. I will remember your water
changing experience!

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <Deenerz@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2


Hi Gail,
You may want to add, "Don't place the tank near your computer monitor".
One splash when I was making a water change and I was out monitor shopping.

Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21126 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Well I was MUCH closer with the tank and monitor, like a foot apart. It was beautiful while it lasted. I had the tank setup so I could watch while goofing around on the computer. What a surprise, electricity and water don't mix so well ;)

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: drollier@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2


Oops! I never thought about that when I set up my 2 last tanks..... The 29
gal is less than 4 feet away and the Betta in his 2 gal is on a filing
cabinet 4 feet away in another direction. I will remember your water
changing experience!

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <Deenerz@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2

Hi Gail,
You may want to add, "Don't place the tank near your computer monitor".
One splash when I was making a water change and I was out monitor shopping.

Mike



.

________________________________________________________________________
Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21127 From: AquaticElf Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Hi all,

I do not agree here to some extent. While it is true clown loaches get large there is no reason why you cannot have three or four in your 55 gallon tank. There is a doctor in my town here who has a 55 gallon and has 6 in it and has had one clown loach for 4 years and it is only 5 inches long, perhaps slightly larger. He has no problems with the six clown loaches he has in the tank. Buy small ones and watch them grow, when they get too large, take them back to the local fish shop (but that will be some time) and get smaller ones again. It takes a while for fish to grow, they do not grow 8 inches oveernight and i have had clowns in a ten gallon tank for a logn time with no problems. When they get too large, I either give them away or take them to a shop.

Just my opinion of course, each to their own

Ivan
AquaticElf@...
Join My Yahoo Tropical Fish Club
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/giveandreceivefreefish/
Aquabid.Com for All Your Tropical Fish Supplies
http://www.aquabid.com/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21128 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
I agree that they grow slowly for most people... BUT... is that because they
are being stunted from being in too small of tanks... or because they just
grow slow? It always boils down to.. Can it be done? YES. Should it be
done? NO.

I think the overwhelming majority of the time that BIG fish grow slow is
because of that "Catch 22" where people say, "I'll move him when he grows a
little more", but they won't grown any more while they are being hormonally
stunted in too small of a tank. There are several recent scientific
studies, done for the aquaculture & fishery industries, that now prove that
fish release a hormone into the water. When this hormone level gets to a
certain level, the fish "stunt" their growth. This can be overcome with
frequent, weekly PWC's or sometimes daily PWC's, depending on the
overstocking level, but if you only change out 25% once a month, then the
hormones are going to cause the fish to grow slowly... or stop growing...
never reaching their full size. Stunting also causes many other health
issues and robs years from the overall life of the fish.

For example, in July 2005, I adopted/rescued a 10G tank that had 2 Blue
Gourami's, 3 Albino Buenos Aires Tetras, 3 Zebra Danios and a COMMON
PLECO... talk about OVERSTOCKED. She had 150G worth of fish in a 10G tank.
All of these fish had been in that 10G for over two years. The Gourami's
were less than 3" (should grow to 6") and the Pleco was only 5" (should grow
to 18"+).

I moved the Gourami's and Tetras into a 20G tank (still too small but it was
all I had open) and left the Z. Danios in the 10G. I moved the Pleco into
my 65G goldfish tank with 3 fancy goldfish.

It's now 1.5 years later. None of the other tropical's have really grown
much but the Pleco is now 10" long (doubled in length) and probably 3X-4X
the actual size when body mass is used as the measurement. I do weekly 25%
PWC's on my goldfish/pleco tank to keep the hormone levels down and to
vacuum all the poop out of the gravel... both of them species are big time
poopers.

Even my 65G is too small for a Common Pleco in the long run, but it was only
supposed to be temporary till I could get a 125G tropical tank for all of
the tropical's... but then Hurricane Katrina (8/29/2005) but a damper on my
tank expansion plans. I rode her out and saved all my fish... even with no
power for 15 days and no drinkable water for over a month. Most of them are
still alive today, although I've had several health issues with those
rescued fish and hardly any with my non-stunted fish.

I'm hoping to get that 125G tank soon. I just haven't had time to expand
but plan to this summer... as long as Katrina's cousin doesn't get us.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21129 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
Used equipment or older equipment you already own, may need to have
impellers replaced. I have had mine for about 3 years and they are starting
to fail. When the impeller starts failing, you get a lot of cavitation
noise. This can be very loud and annoying (especially when it kicks in at 3
am hehehe). Before you replace them, try soaking the impellers in white
vinegar to clean them really good…sometimes that does the trick. Other than
that…they are quiet…and I have 4 of them running in the same room (between 2
55 gal tanks).



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 1:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Motion in tank



that is weird is it brand new emperor filter or is it used the only
time i can hear water is if i don t have the water level up to the
output of the filter or the lip i guess you could call it too and my
filter is about 2-3 years old and no parts are replaced either try
these steps first unplug the filter and refill it with water till it
starts draining in the tank then hurry and plug it back in and
continue to fill it with water once it is running after you do that
it might make some noise at first but play around with the grey lever
in the middle that lifts up and down, pump it up and down a few times
and that should correct the filter if that doesn t work then you
might want to get in contact with the people you brought it from and
see if you can get it replaced.
i am just letting you know how mine is sometimes like when i do water
changes and turn it off and then turn it back on it is loud till it
is filled up with water and u can fill it up with water from the tank
yourself if you don t do that the motor or pump will burn out i don t
think is says that in instructions for filters it is just something
the manufacturer expects you to know i think i hope this helps you

your welcome

steve

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> This emperor 400 is louder than I expected. It was even louder but
I played around with it and got it to be reasonable.
>
> But, you definately know there is water in that living room, LOL.
>
> I have a two ended air pump to use, that should be enough then
with the wand and I have a lighthouse.
>
> Maybe I will just get the wand and try that first.......with the
air pump.
>
> Thanks Steve.
> Patti M
>
>
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> .
>
> _,_._,___
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21130 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Hi again. Okay, went to the LFS tonite and the ph in this area is about 7.6, common, and they told me not to be concerned with that. So went home and tested again, and ..... my Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is only at 80, and in the Mardel 5/1 test strip book, it says ph is only accurate when tested if Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is 120 or greater. So....I am fluctuating between 80-120. Would you recommend adding something to boost this?

I think I will add the Stress Zyme, (havent't done that yet, only added Biozyme one time) tomorrow, have to buy. That should help offset my amonia reading of .50 now.

Amonia has been fluctuating .25 to .50. It is hard to tell as the "stick" has maybe a hint of pink, so I will go get a better test for that too... These sticks are hard to read, like, is it this color or the next one up! LOL!

Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, hardness 120.

So actually I think I am doing pretty good. after I add the Stress Zyme, and let it sit for a day or two, retest and if amonia level closer to zero..... ADD fish?!!!!

I have not cleaned yet, but it has only been 10 days, with nothing in the aquarium.

Any ideas, thoughts, etc. you experienced people you ?? <smile>

fun! challenging. And I don't have plants or salt LOL!

Patti M




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21131 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
hi. and lastly, the Emperor 400 has two filters and a 2 other places to put additional media.

What would you recommend I put in for additional media? just put in additional filters that have the charcoal, or by charcoal and put it in only ? or....

thanks!

Patti M




---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21132 From: Patti M. Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Noisy Emperor
Hi, thanks Rev. and Steve. It is a new Emperor 400.

Steve I am going to go thru the steps you describe below. will let you know if it makes a difference.

thanks again.
Patti M

"Rev. Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
Used equipment or older equipment you already own, may need to have
impellers replaced. I have had mine for about 3 years and they are starting
to fail. When the impeller starts failing, you get a lot of cavitation
noise. This can be very loud and annoying (especially when it kicks in at 3
am hehehe). Before you replace them, try soaking the impellers in white
vinegar to clean them really good…sometimes that does the trick. Other than
that…they are quiet…and I have 4 of them running in the same room (between 2
55 gal tanks).

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 1:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Motion in tank

that is weird is it brand new emperor filter or is it used the only
time i can hear water is if i don t have the water level up to the
output of the filter or the lip i guess you could call it too and my
filter is about 2-3 years old and no parts are replaced either try
these steps first unplug the filter and refill it with water till it
starts draining in the tank then hurry and plug it back in and
continue to fill it with water once it is running after you do that
it might make some noise at first but play around with the grey lever
in the middle that lifts up and down, pump it up and down a few times
and that should correct the filter if that doesn t work then you
might want to get in contact with the people you brought it from and
see if you can get it replaced.
i am just letting you know how mine is sometimes like when i do water
changes and turn it off and then turn it back on it is loud till it
is filled up with water and u can fill it up with water from the tank
yourself if you don t do that the motor or pump will burn out i don t
think is says that in instructions for filters it is just something
the manufacturer expects you to know i think i hope this helps you

your welcome

steve

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> This emperor 400 is louder than I expected. It was even louder but
I played around with it and got it to be reasonable.
>
> But, you definately know there is water in that living room, LOL.
>
> I have a two ended air pump to use, that should be enough then
with the wand and I have a lighthouse.
>
> Maybe I will just get the wand and try that first.......with the
air pump.
>
> Thanks Steve.
> Patti M
>
>
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> .
>
> _,_._,___
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21133 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
he he he
you don t need a drip loop really here is a cheap way not to have to
use a check valve in fact a check valve i think is better then drip
loop cause if water pressure is to great it can always flow right
past the loop unless you have it above the tank.
as far as the marine salt true you might not need it, it all depends
on the PH or alkalinity of your water but marine salt i personally
think is the easiest way to sabalize it but that is just for me
anyways cause my tap water i use has very low PH and alk. so i use
marine salt to raise my PH and alk. also i use alk. buffer i use a
combination of both the marine salt is just in my opinion a little
bit cheaper or alot cheaper (15 dollars for a big bag of marine salt
that could make at least 300 gallons or more depending on the ph
needed for fish or 8 dollars for the alk.\ph buffer that might only
make 100 gallons) you just have to be careful not to use to much salt
that is why i use a combination of both
i guess we disagree on the seasalt (only cause any fish can be
accliamated to saltwater or it even helps sick fish get better sorta
like a smelling salt for humans or at least that is what i was told)
and i only tried this on 1 fish so far i have a silver dollar that
was being picked on i think by tank mates and missing almost all of
his fins and i am currently setting up a tank for cichlids that has a
really high PH for some fish that i use seasalt to stabalize the
water ph and alk. and i put the silver dollar in this tank to cycle
it and within a couple weeks his fins have completely grown back and
100 percent healthy again.
but otherwise i agree with what you said i think i was just giving a
more detailed way of setting up the tank
oh 1 other thing u said about the tempature setting it to 72-76
degrees there are alot of tropical fish that like temps up to 80
degrees too but that is all in research the person will have to do on
the type of fish he or she wants


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, gail hopkins <iowakoi@...> wrote:
>
> Setting up the tank
>
>
> Level the stand where you want it the stay. Never move a tank
with more than a couple of inches of water so be sure where you want
the tank. Don't place it next to TVs etc, not directly in front of
the window. Windows tend to cause problems with too much light and
temp fluctuations.
> Add the gravel- don't add ornaments yet
> Pour in 1/3 -1/2 of the water - some junk may float to the top
just fish it out with a net.
> Put in ornaments, air stones- place them so you can see inside of
any castles, avoids dead fish being overlooked
> Fill the tank Pouring the water in your hand first so you don't
move around the gravel.
> Hook up the filter, air pumps, heaters lug them into a GROUNDED
POWER STRIP
> Leave a loop of tubing below the air pump so if the water drips
down it does not go into the power strip.
> Set the temp at 72-76 degrees
> Prime and turn on the filter, turn on the air pump
> Add the water conditioners even though it is not critical for the
water to set 24 hours it is highly advisable.
>
> After the tank has be setup 24 hours you can add your fish.
>
> Selecting fish- you should get your fish from a reliable store
that give at least a 72 hour guarantee. Walmarts normally have a 90
day guarantee if you save the bag, receipt and dead fish. ( you can
freeze the fish until your next walmart run). As far as suggestions
walmart codes there fish as to compatibiulity. The last number of the
price is the same if the fish get along IE all fish that end in 8
belong toghether. But be sure you get a walmart that has trained
staff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> Never ever ever use marine salt on fresh water fish. Make sure
the fish you chose need aquarium salt before adding it.
>
>
> Good luck and Keep us posted, Gail owner of Richeer3Pondsupplies
and former pet store attendant
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Gail Hopkins
> Cell: 641-750-3062
> Richdeer3@... for faster response
> Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need Mail bonding?
> Go to the Yahoo! Mail Q&A for great tips from Yahoo! Answers users.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21134 From: steve Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
i use i belive it is called carbon pellets
they look like little black pieces of coal it also comes it white
little nuggets too i use both of them and mix them together
i believe it works sorta like a sponge and absorbs bacteria and needs
to be replaced i do it when i change my water
that for me seems to be the most availble media to me anyways but i
have heard of people using just about anything even small lego pieces
or broken up lego pieces that will fit in those grey containers but
instead of absorbing bacteria it will attach to the legos sorta like
a bio ball for saltwater tank or even your bio wheel and the lego
pieces will need to be washed off once in a while but only 1
container at a time so that it will not get rid of the benifical
bacteria but like i said i just use the carbon bits or pellets you
just need to rinse them off after you put them in the media container
or your water will turn a cloudy black


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> hi. and lastly, the Emperor 400 has two filters and a 2 other
places to put additional media.
>
> What would you recommend I put in for additional media? just put
in additional filters that have the charcoal, or by charcoal and put
it in only ? or....
>
> thanks!
>
> Patti M
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21135 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cheat Sheet? for newbies
You just need to go to the supermarket and get some plain ammonia with
nothing added, no detergent and no scents. Plenty cheap there compared
to what you may find, if at all, at the LFS. Add enough to bring your
ammonia reading to 5 ppm on a real test kit, not the strips which are
often highly inaccurate. Make sure the reagents have an expiration date
on them, preferable one that is not in the past <g> so you can get
reliable tests until after that date. If no expiration, no buy.

Yu will be looking to have your 5 ppm of ammonia used up in one day and
your nitrites to remain at 0 ppm. Then your cycle is complete and you
can start to add fish.

Oh yeah, someone mentioned liquid reagents. Ignore them. Get a kit with
the dry pillow type reagents if you can. Much more accurate. Liquid
reagents are made liquid and are prone to error, perhaps too much liquid
added, though, on the whole, they are pretty good.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 12:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cheat Sheet? for newbies

Hi, exciting, I think I am having a bacterial bloom! exciting! I
think that is supposed to happen in the startup cycle.

I AM LOOKING FOR A LIST OF THINGS YOU TEST AND THE RANGE THAT IS
ACCEPTABLE. AND ONE THAT SHOWS WHAT I AM TO EXPECT DURING INITIAL
CYCLING WOULD BE GREAT TOO......<GRIN>. I APPRECIATE IT!

I am writing down all my numbers, on things I am testing. Now will
put them in spreadsheet..

I do have concerns though.........I am testing PH, which is included
in the 5/1 tester kit. Then I test with a ph test kit and then I
have the PH alert in my aquarium where it shows a dot and small
color chart.

Well, the 5/1 kit shows the PH is fine...like at about 7. The PH
test kit shows the PH is off the charts, and the dot alert shows the
highest, a bright red.........

If I cannot get a correct read on the PH in the 5/1 kit, then how
can I trust the other test results in that kit????

I put some tap water in a 2 qt container and will test it after 24
hrs of sitting to see what the ph is........ I tested the water
straight out of the tap and it was high......like the aquarium water.

Also, I will be getting white vinegar today to test the two white
rocks I have in my tank. they were hand-me-downs from the previous
owner. They don't look like limestone, but could be, which would be
increasing the pH.

I did put the dried bacteria in the tank a week ago, and did NOT put
the "piece of shrimp" under the gravel to create the amonia the
bacteria need to grow. not sure if I need to go buy ammonium
hydroxide to give the bacteria what they need to colonize. I will
know more when I go home at lunch today and see the aquarium

I haven't added fish yet. Not sure what I am doing, don't want to
mess up fish! <smile>

that is it for now.
Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21136 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
Gail,

A couple of quick points.

1. Test strips. Unless you are getting scientific grade, forget them.
They are far too inaccurate to help a beginner. Scientists use them to
ballpark until they can test more accurately.

2. Why go with second rate water conditioners. Check out the line Hikari
is now carrying. Best of class.

3. Gravel can be rinsed in any temperature water.

4. What is wrong with iodized salt? Absolutely nothing. Use kosher salt
(canning salt in some areas) and it should only be used when cleaning a
solid surface, such as tank glass. If the gravel is worrisome, toss it
and buy new. Not worth trying to save it.

5. You only need lights on that long if your tank is planted. If it is
not planted, just turn on the lights when viewing fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of gail hopkins
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to get started

The last post on this subject was very good but there are some easier
ways to set up your tank.
Buy all your supplies before you start.
Test kit- Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite all in one strips are easiest for
a beginner's to read
Water conditioner-Easy balance is a good beginning product or STRESS
COAT
Gavel- enough to cover the bottom by 1-1/2 inches.
Gavel should only be rinsed in warm water. You don't have to have a
strainer to do this just full a small bucket or large bowl. Put a couple
of cups of gravel in the bowl and stir the gravel while you run water
over the gravel the junk will float out of the gravel. If you think
there was diseases or too much algae in the old tank you can add a
couple of tablespoons on NON iodine salt table salt is fine for cleaning
equipment.
Lights- plant light only if you plan on live plants. You may want to
start off with fake plants until you have the tank cycled and have your
fish stable. Light should be on 10-14 hours a day. There are timers
available.
Ornaments- no sharp edges, no raw driftwood or seashells. If you want
to use those things research how to prepare them so they are safe in
your tank. Hiding places are good but only if you place them so you can
view which fish are inside the hiding place so you don't let dead fish
decay without noticing.
Air pump, clear tubing, bubble bar or air stones- Use a air pump that
fits the size of your tank. Be sure that the tubing has a drip loop so
your tank isn't accendentally drained if the hose comes loose. let part
of the hose hang below the level of the pump.
Filter- Clean the filter you have well then replace the filter media.
To start the pump you must prime it or it will burn out the filter.
Check the impeller is free of anything. If there is something stuck use
a seam ripper or an eyeglass screwdriver to free up the impeller.
Heater- should be sized for the tank. Should be adjustable but the
newer heaters are often submersible and preset.

See the second post for setting up the actual tank


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21137 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/26/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
One should cycle the tank prior to adding fish. This requires more than
24 hours. More like 4-8 weeks, based on a variety of factors.

Why not use marine salts in a freshwater tank? If I have some on hand,
that is the first salt I would use when use of salt is indicated.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of gail hopkins
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 3:01 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2

Setting up the tank


Level the stand where you want it the stay. Never move a tank with
more than a couple of inches of water so be sure where you want the
tank. Don't place it next to TVs etc, not directly in front of the
window. Windows tend to cause problems with too much light and temp
fluctuations.
Add the gravel- don't add ornaments yet
Pour in 1/3 -1/2 of the water - some junk may float to the top just
fish it out with a net.
Put in ornaments, air stones- place them so you can see inside of any
castles, avoids dead fish being overlooked
Fill the tank Pouring the water in your hand first so you don't move
around the gravel.
Hook up the filter, air pumps, heaters lug them into a GROUNDED POWER
STRIP
Leave a loop of tubing below the air pump so if the water drips down
it does not go into the power strip.
Set the temp at 72-76 degrees
Prime and turn on the filter, turn on the air pump
Add the water conditioners even though it is not critical for the
water to set 24 hours it is highly advisable.

After the tank has be setup 24 hours you can add your fish.

Selecting fish- you should get your fish from a reliable store that
give at least a 72 hour guarantee. Walmarts normally have a 90 day
guarantee if you save the bag, receipt and dead fish. ( you can freeze
the fish until your next walmart run). As far as suggestions walmart
codes there fish as to compatibiulity. The last number of the price is
the same if the fish get along IE all fish that end in 8 belong
toghether. But be sure you get a walmart that has trained staff
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Never ever ever use marine salt on fresh water fish. Make sure the
fish you chose need aquarium salt before adding it.


Good luck and Keep us posted, Gail owner of Richeer3Pondsupplies and
former pet store attendant





Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21138 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Motion in tank
It all boils down to the fact that Clown Loaches are a long-lived
fish which NATURALLY grow comparatively slowly. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> I agree that they grow slowly for most people... BUT... is that
because they
> are being stunted from being in too small of tanks... or because
they just
> grow slow? It always boils down to.. Can it be done? YES. Should
it be
> done? NO.
>
> I think the overwhelming majority of the time that BIG fish grow
slow is
> because of that "Catch 22" where people say, "I'll move him when he
grows a
> little more", but they won't grown any more while they are being
hormonally
> stunted in too small of a tank. There are several recent scientific
> studies, done for the aquaculture & fishery industries, that now
prove that
> fish release a hormone into the water. When this hormone level
gets to a
> certain level, the fish "stunt" their growth. This can be overcome
with
> frequent, weekly PWC's or sometimes daily PWC's, depending on the
> overstocking level, but if you only change out 25% once a month,
then the
> hormones are going to cause the fish to grow slowly... or stop
growing...
> never reaching their full size. Stunting also causes many other
health
> issues and robs years from the overall life of the fish.
>
> For example, in July 2005, I adopted/rescued a 10G tank that had 2
Blue
> Gourami's, 3 Albino Buenos Aires Tetras, 3 Zebra Danios and a COMMON
> PLECO... talk about OVERSTOCKED. She had 150G worth of fish in a
10G tank.
> All of these fish had been in that 10G for over two years. The
Gourami's
> were less than 3" (should grow to 6") and the Pleco was only 5"
(should grow
> to 18"+).
>
> I moved the Gourami's and Tetras into a 20G tank (still too small
but it was
> all I had open) and left the Z. Danios in the 10G. I moved the
Pleco into
> my 65G goldfish tank with 3 fancy goldfish.
>
> It's now 1.5 years later. None of the other tropical's have really
grown
> much but the Pleco is now 10" long (doubled in length) and probably
3X-4X
> the actual size when body mass is used as the measurement. I do
weekly 25%
> PWC's on my goldfish/pleco tank to keep the hormone levels down and
to
> vacuum all the poop out of the gravel... both of them species are
big time
> poopers.
>
> Even my 65G is too small for a Common Pleco in the long run, but it
was only
> supposed to be temporary till I could get a 125G tropical tank for
all of
> the tropical's... but then Hurricane Katrina (8/29/2005) but a
damper on my
> tank expansion plans. I rode her out and saved all my fish... even
with no
> power for 15 days and no drinkable water for over a month. Most of
them are
> still alive today, although I've had several health issues with
those
> rescued fish and hardly any with my non-stunted fish.
>
> I'm hoping to get that 125G tank soon. I just haven't had time to
expand
> but plan to this summer... as long as Katrina's cousin doesn't get
us.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21139 From: steve Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
i thought that table salt was a no no to use in aquarium water
never knew that you could use it to stablize water conditions,

where can i find this Hikari water conditioner i have not seen it
before nor has anyone told me about it but i can not really complain
about this Genisis stuff that i found.
i always thought it was best to use hot water to clean anything off,
to kill bacteria and that is not just for aquariums for instance when
you clean off your kitchen counter you use hot water right or when
your mopping a floor you use hot water, just an easier way to help
kill bacteria but that is just my opinion

but thanks for the heads up with hikari

steve01


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Gail,
>
> A couple of quick points.
>
> 1. Test strips. Unless you are getting scientific grade, forget
them.
> They are far too inaccurate to help a beginner. Scientists use them
to
> ballpark until they can test more accurately.
>
> 2. Why go with second rate water conditioners. Check out the line
Hikari
> is now carrying. Best of class.
>
> 3. Gravel can be rinsed in any temperature water.
>
> 4. What is wrong with iodized salt? Absolutely nothing. Use kosher
salt
> (canning salt in some areas) and it should only be used when
cleaning a
> solid surface, such as tank glass. If the gravel is worrisome, toss
it
> and buy new. Not worth trying to save it.
>
> 5. You only need lights on that long if your tank is planted. If it
is
> not planted, just turn on the lights when viewing fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of gail hopkins
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to get started
>
> The last post on this subject was very good but there are some
easier
> ways to set up your tank.
> Buy all your supplies before you start.
> Test kit- Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite all in one strips are easiest
for
> a beginner's to read
> Water conditioner-Easy balance is a good beginning product or
STRESS
> COAT
> Gavel- enough to cover the bottom by 1-1/2 inches.
> Gavel should only be rinsed in warm water. You don't have to have
a
> strainer to do this just full a small bucket or large bowl. Put a
couple
> of cups of gravel in the bowl and stir the gravel while you run
water
> over the gravel the junk will float out of the gravel. If you think
> there was diseases or too much algae in the old tank you can add a
> couple of tablespoons on NON iodine salt table salt is fine for
cleaning
> equipment.
> Lights- plant light only if you plan on live plants. You may want
to
> start off with fake plants until you have the tank cycled and have
your
> fish stable. Light should be on 10-14 hours a day. There are timers
> available.
> Ornaments- no sharp edges, no raw driftwood or seashells. If you
want
> to use those things research how to prepare them so they are safe in
> your tank. Hiding places are good but only if you place them so
you can
> view which fish are inside the hiding place so you don't let dead
fish
> decay without noticing.
> Air pump, clear tubing, bubble bar or air stones- Use a air pump
that
> fits the size of your tank. Be sure that the tubing has a drip loop
so
> your tank isn't accendentally drained if the hose comes loose. let
part
> of the hose hang below the level of the pump.
> Filter- Clean the filter you have well then replace the filter
media.
> To start the pump you must prime it or it will burn out the filter.
> Check the impeller is free of anything. If there is something stuck
use
> a seam ripper or an eyeglass screwdriver to free up the impeller.
> Heater- should be sized for the tank. Should be adjustable but the
> newer heaters are often submersible and preset.
>
> See the second post for setting up the actual tank
>
>
> Thanks,
> Gail Hopkins
> Cell: 641-750-3062
> Richdeer3@... for faster response
> Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21140 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Thanks!
Hello. Steve you are mentioning so many things that I have questions on or wasn't sure on.......

thanks!

Thank you everyone for being here.........nice to have some help with starting out a tank, and hopefully, people to share the fun with down the road......

Patti M

steve <steve01@...> wrote:
i thought that table salt was a no no to use in aquarium water
never knew that you could use it to stablize water conditions,

where can i find this Hikari water conditioner i have not seen it
before nor has anyone told me about it but i can not really complain
about this Genisis stuff that i found.
i always thought it was best to use hot water to clean anything off,
to kill bacteria and that is not just for aquariums for instance when
you clean off your kitchen counter you use hot water right or when
your mopping a floor you use hot water, just an easier way to help
kill bacteria but that is just my opinion

but thanks for the heads up with hikari

steve01

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Gail,
>
> A couple of quick points.
>
> 1. Test strips. Unless you are getting scientific grade, forget
them.
> They are far too inaccurate to help a beginner. Scientists use them
to
> ballpark until they can test more accurately.
>
> 2. Why go with second rate water conditioners. Check out the line
Hikari
> is now carrying. Best of class.
>
> 3. Gravel can be rinsed in any temperature water.
>
> 4. What is wrong with iodized salt? Absolutely nothing. Use kosher
salt
> (canning salt in some areas) and it should only be used when
cleaning a
> solid surface, such as tank glass. If the gravel is worrisome, toss
it
> and buy new. Not worth trying to save it.
>
> 5. You only need lights on that long if your tank is planted. If it
is
> not planted, just turn on the lights when viewing fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of gail hopkins
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to get started
>
> The last post on this subject was very good but there are some
easier
> ways to set up your tank.
> Buy all your supplies before you start.
> Test kit- Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite all in one strips are easiest
for
> a beginner's to read
> Water conditioner-Easy balance is a good beginning product or
STRESS
> COAT
> Gavel- enough to cover the bottom by 1-1/2 inches.
> Gavel should only be rinsed in warm water. You don't have to have
a
> strainer to do this just full a small bucket or large bowl. Put a
couple
> of cups of gravel in the bowl and stir the gravel while you run
water
> over the gravel the junk will float out of the gravel. If you think
> there was diseases or too much algae in the old tank you can add a
> couple of tablespoons on NON iodine salt table salt is fine for
cleaning
> equipment.
> Lights- plant light only if you plan on live plants. You may want
to
> start off with fake plants until you have the tank cycled and have
your
> fish stable. Light should be on 10-14 hours a day. There are timers
> available.
> Ornaments- no sharp edges, no raw driftwood or seashells. If you
want
> to use those things research how to prepare them so they are safe in
> your tank. Hiding places are good but only if you place them so
you can
> view which fish are inside the hiding place so you don't let dead
fish
> decay without noticing.
> Air pump, clear tubing, bubble bar or air stones- Use a air pump
that
> fits the size of your tank. Be sure that the tubing has a drip loop
so
> your tank isn't accendentally drained if the hose comes loose. let
part
> of the hose hang below the level of the pump.
> Filter- Clean the filter you have well then replace the filter
media.
> To start the pump you must prime it or it will burn out the filter.
> Check the impeller is free of anything. If there is something stuck
use
> a seam ripper or an eyeglass screwdriver to free up the impeller.
> Heater- should be sized for the tank. Should be adjustable but the
> newer heaters are often submersible and preset.
>
> See the second post for setting up the actual tank
>
>
> Thanks,
> Gail Hopkins
> Cell: 641-750-3062
> Richdeer3@... for faster response
> Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
>






---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21141 From: dylan aldred Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
I am New with this club so I hope this is getting to you Patti M.
I also recommend doing small 10% water changes every few days to lower the Ammonia as it will give the tank to catch up in good bacteria. Are you Testing for Nitrate the last stage of ammonia break down. You should see a spike in this area in new tanks but when you get it back down, then you will know that the tank has fully cycled.
dylan_james_75@...


----- Original Message ----
From: Patti M. <msrnt2004@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 9:47:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...













Hi again. Okay, went to the LFS tonite and the ph in this area is about 7.6, common, and they told me not to be concerned with that. So went home and tested again, and ..... my Alkalinity/Bufferin g Capacity is only at 80, and in the Mardel 5/1 test strip book, it says ph is only accurate when tested if Alkalinity/Bufferin g Capacity is 120 or greater. So....I am fluctuating between 80-120. Would you recommend adding something to boost this?



I think I will add the Stress Zyme, (havent't done that yet, only added Biozyme one time) tomorrow, have to buy. That should help offset my amonia reading of .50 now.



Amonia has been fluctuating .25 to .50. It is hard to tell as the "stick" has maybe a hint of pink, so I will go get a better test for that too... These sticks are hard to read, like, is it this color or the next one up! LOL!



Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, hardness 120.



So actually I think I am doing pretty good. after I add the Stress Zyme, and let it sit for a day or two, retest and if amonia level closer to zero..... ADD fish?!!!!



I have not cleaned yet, but it has only been 10 days, with nothing in the aquarium.



Any ideas, thoughts, etc. you experienced people you ?? <smile>



fun! challenging. And I don't have plants or salt LOL!



Patti M







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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21142 From: whjordan83 Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Aquarium Software
I was looking into purchasing a software that can store all the data I
have from all of my tanks. Simplify everything all into one place. I
remember a few years back there was a software called Tankminder, but
upon further research I have discovered it was discontinued. Anyone
have any suggestions on what's out there that is good?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21143 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
It's best not to use chemicals in a tank unless you have the knowledge to
know how they will affect other things. Most people tap/source water is
fine for 90% of the common tropical fish out there. It's always best to get
fish that fit your water, than trying to alter your water chemistry...
unless you have the experience level necessary to do this effectively and
safely.

That being said, I think your water is fine for most fish. What fish are
you considering?

Are you "fishless cycling" this new tank using clear/plain ammonia? If so,
you are NOT ready to "ADD fish" yet. How long have you had the no-fish tank
set up? What are your plans to make it safe for your fish or are you
planning on "cycling with fish"? Just adding stress-zyme and bio-zyme will
not do the trick and if you add fish, you will be doing daily testing (for
up to two months) and possibly daily 25% PWC's, depending on the number of
fish you add.

You could check with your LFS to see if they sell Bio-Spira (must be kept
refrigerated) or order some Bio-Spira off the net at
http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html. If you decide on Bio-Spira, you
should probably do a 90% PWC to get all them other chemicals out of your
tank and run some fresh carbon to get any that the large PWC misses.. in
fact, I try to dissuade people from using all of the different chemicals in
their "closed ecology" tanks in the first place. It's not necessary and can
turn your tank into a chemical cess pool over time.

If you are not familiar with "The Nitrogen Cycle", check out my Blog
http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and look at the "A to Z of Fish Keeping" blog
where I list sites that will teach you those things I talked about above, as
well as two different "online tutorials" you can take to teach you more
about the things you will need to know when setting up a new tank.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 9:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

Hi again. Okay, went to the LFS tonite and the ph in this area is about
7.6, common, and they told me not to be concerned with that. So went home
and tested again, and ..... my Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is only at 80,
and in the Mardel 5/1 test strip book, it says ph is only accurate when
tested if Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is 120 or greater. So....I am
fluctuating between 80-120. Would you recommend adding something to boost
this?

I think I will add the Stress Zyme, (havent't done that yet, only added
Biozyme one time) tomorrow, have to buy. That should help offset my amonia
reading of .50 now.

Amonia has been fluctuating .25 to .50. It is hard to tell as the "stick"
has maybe a hint of pink, so I will go get a better test for that too...
These sticks are hard to read, like, is it this color or the next one up!
LOL!

Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, hardness 120.

So actually I think I am doing pretty good. after I add the Stress Zyme,
and let it sit for a day or two, retest and if amonia level closer to
zero..... ADD fish?!!!!

I have not cleaned yet, but it has only been 10 days, with nothing in the
aquarium.

Any ideas, thoughts, etc. you experienced people you ?? <smile>

fun! challenging. And I don't have plants or salt LOL!

Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21144 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?
I would suggest open cell foam blocks. You may be able to buy it to custom
fit your filter or you can buy it and cut it to size. There are several
different pore sizes available. It's a great mechanical and biological
filtering media and easy to "clean" by just squeezing a few times in some
removed tank water to get the debris/detritus out of the sponges without
harming your N-bacteria colonies growing on the cell walls.

I don't use activated carbon in any of my filter systems... haven't for
several years... unless being used to remove a treatment/medicine. Carbon
can remove many of the essential and trace minerals from your water.. things
that your fish and plants need. The filtering ability of the carbon can
fill up after a couple of weeks and then it can actually start leaching
chemicals back into your water at a different rate than it removed them.
Many experienced fish keepers aren't using it on an ongoing basis any more.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 9:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Emporer - Media containers, what to put in them?

hi. and lastly, the Emperor 400 has two filters and a 2 other places to put
additional media.

What would you recommend I put in for additional media? just put in
additional filters that have the charcoal, or by charcoal and put it in only
? or....

thanks!

Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21145 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: hikari products link
This looks like the link for the hikari products.

http://www.hikariusa.com/products.htm

Patti M

steve <steve01@...> wrote:
.....where can i find this Hikari water conditioner i have not seen it
before nor has anyone told me about it but i can not really complain
about this Genisis stuff that i found......
steve01

---


.





---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21146 From: rsv2007mkv varanai Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
there is a couple of place u cantry petsmart has the software and petland also has it or u can look up some websites than may be abl;e to help u please email and let me know what u find my name is rick and my email address isrsv2007mkv @...

I was looking into purchasing a software that can store all the data I
have from all of





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21147 From: Nimish Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
I have tried Aquarix before. Version 3. It seems to be a good piece of
software.
Nim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21148 From: Donna Camp Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
I have problems with the 2 points I left below. If you add fish after only
24 hours you are asking for trouble. You must have patience and cycle your
tank - something that takes 4 - 6 weeks. If you add fish after only 24 hours
you are asking for dead fish.

As for Wal-Mart - Not all stores have a 90 day guarantee on their fish -
none of the 3 close to me do. Wal-Mart is has many problems with their fish
and is no longer selling them at all of their stores - I believe the
articles that I've read said they will no longer be selling them at 700+ of
their stores. And you can't rely on what the tags say about compatibility -
you must do research online - there are MANY great websites or in books or
talk with people at different stores. While you may find the occasional
salesperson at Wal-Mart who knows about and cares about fish, they are
rare - as they often cover more than 1 department during a shift.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "gail hopkins" <iowakoi@...>
To: <aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2


Setting up the tank

After the tank has be setup 24 hours you can add your fish.

Selecting fish- you should get your fish from a reliable store that give
at least a 72 hour guarantee. Walmarts normally have a 90 day guarantee if
you save the bag, receipt and dead fish. ( you can freeze the fish until
your next walmart run). As far as suggestions walmart codes there fish as to
compatibiulity. The last number of the price is the same if the fish get
along IE all fish that end in 8 belong toghether. But be sure you get a
walmart that has trained staff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21149 From: steve Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: hikari products link
thanks for the link

steve01


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
>
> This looks like the link for the hikari products.
>
> http://www.hikariusa.com/products.htm
>
> Patti M
>
> steve <steve01@...> wrote:
> .....where can i find this Hikari water conditioner i have
not seen it
> before nor has anyone told me about it but i can not really
complain
> about this Genisis stuff that i found......
> steve01
>
> ---
>
>
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21150 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to set up a tank part 2
Hi, yes, research. This is a much bigger addition to my life than I thought it would be, this new family of fish, joining my little family of myself and 2 mini schnauzers. Looking at that Hakari product list blew my mind, it was like, gosh, now I have to chose a best food, and all these different fish, eels etc. I am going to get may need different foods! LOL! Lots to think about in all this. (I became a distributor of premium dog food, because I found out what is really in most "grocery store brands"). I can see it now.........distributor of premium fish food! LOL!

I am picking up another 55 gallon aquarium today, with hood, and lights and emperor 400 for cheap, to resale, but in the back of my mind am thinking, get those big fancy gold fish with the neat thing on their head, they are cute critters! hee! Use that new tank for them! Just need a bigger house though to do that. ugh.

Anyway, I didn't know I have patience, but am finding I need it for starting a tank. fun!

Patti M


Donna Camp <drollier@...> wrote:
I have problems with the 2 points I left below. If you add fish after only
24 hours you are asking for trouble. You must have patience and cycle your
tank - something that takes 4 - 6 weeks. If you add fish after only 24 hours
you are asking for dead fish.

As for Wal-Mart - Not all stores have a 90 day guarantee on their fish -
none of the 3 close to me do. Wal-Mart is has many problems with their fish
and is no longer selling them at all of their stores - I believe the
articles that I've read said they will no longer be selling them at 700+ of
their stores. And you can't rely on what the tags say about compatibility -
you must do research online - there are MANY great websites or in books or
talk with people at different stores. While you may find the occasional
salesperson at Wal-Mart who knows about and cares about fish, they are
rare - as they often cover more than 1 department during a shift.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "gail hopkins" <iowakoi@...>
To: <aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to set up a tank part 2

Setting up the tank

After the tank has be setup 24 hours you can add your fish.

Selecting fish- you should get your fish from a reliable store that give
at least a 72 hour guarantee. Walmarts normally have a 90 day guarantee if
you save the bag, receipt and dead fish. ( you can freeze the fish until
your next walmart run). As far as suggestions walmart codes there fish as to
compatibiulity. The last number of the price is the same if the fish get
along IE all fish that end in 8 belong toghether. But be sure you get a
walmart that has trained staff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21151 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
I looked into it once but I find a simple spreadsheet works. Just set up
The first column for your tanks size, then columns for all of your test
parameters and a Notes column... or you might want the Notes column first so
you can see it next to the tank easier. Each time you do testing, or want
to add notes, just "insert" a new row and fill it in. Leave a couple of
blank rows between each tank in the first column. You could also set up
separate spread sheets for each tank... that way if you want to play with
the spread sheet with formulas, etc., it wouldn't mess up the data for the
other tanks that might need a different formula.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of whjordan83
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 8:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Software

I was looking into purchasing a software that can store all the data I have
from all of my tanks. Simplify everything all into one place. I remember a
few years back there was a software called Tankminder, but upon further
research I have discovered it was discontinued. Anyone have any suggestions
on what's out there that is good?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21152 From: Patti M. Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
I heard the main way to differentiate between acrylic and glass tanks is the apoxy'd seams, and that acrylic doesn' t have them but glass does.

Does that make sense? I thought I bought a used acrylic one........but it has apoxy'd seams. Someone just told me they think I have glass 55 gallon tank. I don't think so....I carried it in myself from the car. I am about 5'8.

anyone know?

thanks
Patti M

sorry I appear so ignorant, but I am....at this subject <grin>




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21153 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
I believe the Hikari web site is http://www.hikariusa.com Look for the
water conditioners.

There are some theories as to why the use of table salt with iodine
became a no-no, but I don't know that anyone knows for sure. Likely it
has nothing to do with the iodine, but with the anti-caking agents that
were used. It is perfectly OK to use the salt from the table. Preferred
salt is kosher or canning salt, which should, but not always, contain no
additives. Some anti-caking agents are allowed. Marine salt, meant for a
marine tank a also suitable, but generally much more expensive than
kosher or table salt. In some instances, the use of Epsom salt is
indicated, which has some different properties from table and kosher
salt.

The temperature of the water is not important, it is what is in the
water that is important. Chlorine bleach is usually the chemical of
choice when sterilizing tanks and the contents of tanks. It is effective
and easy to remove. The same goes for cleaning the table and mopping the
floor. However, the hotness of the water may make it easier to place the
cleansing agent in solution, and it makes people feel good when
cleaning. Yeah, it is the heat that kills the bad bacteria, not the,
generally, caustic chemicals in the water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A simpler way to get started

i thought that table salt was a no no to use in aquarium water
never knew that you could use it to stablize water conditions,

where can i find this Hikari water conditioner i have not seen it
before nor has anyone told me about it but i can not really complain
about this Genisis stuff that i found.
i always thought it was best to use hot water to clean anything off,
to kill bacteria and that is not just for aquariums for instance when
you clean off your kitchen counter you use hot water right or when
your mopping a floor you use hot water, just an easier way to help
kill bacteria but that is just my opinion

but thanks for the heads up with hikari

steve01


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Gail,
>
> A couple of quick points.
>
> 1. Test strips. Unless you are getting scientific grade, forget
them.
> They are far too inaccurate to help a beginner. Scientists use them
to
> ballpark until they can test more accurately.
>
> 2. Why go with second rate water conditioners. Check out the line
Hikari
> is now carrying. Best of class.
>
> 3. Gravel can be rinsed in any temperature water.
>
> 4. What is wrong with iodized salt? Absolutely nothing. Use kosher
salt
> (canning salt in some areas) and it should only be used when
cleaning a
> solid surface, such as tank glass. If the gravel is worrisome, toss
it
> and buy new. Not worth trying to save it.
>
> 5. You only need lights on that long if your tank is planted. If it
is
> not planted, just turn on the lights when viewing fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of gail hopkins
> Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 2:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] A simpler way to get started
>
> The last post on this subject was very good but there are some
easier
> ways to set up your tank.
> Buy all your supplies before you start.
> Test kit- Ammonia, Nitrate, Nitrite all in one strips are easiest
for
> a beginner's to read
> Water conditioner-Easy balance is a good beginning product or
STRESS
> COAT
> Gavel- enough to cover the bottom by 1-1/2 inches.
> Gavel should only be rinsed in warm water. You don't have to have
a
> strainer to do this just full a small bucket or large bowl. Put a
couple
> of cups of gravel in the bowl and stir the gravel while you run
water
> over the gravel the junk will float out of the gravel. If you think
> there was diseases or too much algae in the old tank you can add a
> couple of tablespoons on NON iodine salt table salt is fine for
cleaning
> equipment.
> Lights- plant light only if you plan on live plants. You may want
to
> start off with fake plants until you have the tank cycled and have
your
> fish stable. Light should be on 10-14 hours a day. There are timers
> available.
> Ornaments- no sharp edges, no raw driftwood or seashells. If you
want
> to use those things research how to prepare them so they are safe in
> your tank. Hiding places are good but only if you place them so
you can
> view which fish are inside the hiding place so you don't let dead
fish
> decay without noticing.
> Air pump, clear tubing, bubble bar or air stones- Use a air pump
that
> fits the size of your tank. Be sure that the tubing has a drip loop
so
> your tank isn't accendentally drained if the hose comes loose. let
part
> of the hose hang below the level of the pump.
> Filter- Clean the filter you have well then replace the filter
media.
> To start the pump you must prime it or it will burn out the filter.
> Check the impeller is free of anything. If there is something stuck
use
> a seam ripper or an eyeglass screwdriver to free up the impeller.
> Heater- should be sized for the tank. Should be adjustable but the
> newer heaters are often submersible and preset.
>
> See the second post for setting up the actual tank
>
>
> Thanks,
> Gail Hopkins
> Cell: 641-750-3062
> Richdeer3@... for faster response
> Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21154 From: Ken Keegler Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Software
Here is a great link to track / log info on your tanks.

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/2ndpage.html#info

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21155 From: deborahgd14 Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Angelfish Fighting????
Hi Gayle: I have had my angel fish do this. It can be two males
fighting or it could be a couple that is ready to mate. Not all
couples do this (only one of mind did). I had a pair that used to
do that before spawning and after. Other pairs, never acted like
this. It seems every angel is different so it is hard to say what
sex they really are without the experts having good close up
pictures of them. Deborah D

ps If their vents are out, it means they are ready to spawn.
pss I have had to separate many an angel with this happening.
remember they are cichlids and they are semi-agressive fish.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "CrazyforCritters"
<crazyforcritters@...> wrote:
>
> Just curious about something....
>
> I had two Angels in a tank as they looked like they had mouth
rot. One that had been in my tank for a long time was doing MUCH
better so I put him back into the 75 gallon. As SOON as I did,
another Angel came up to him and and they started (what looked like
fighting) mouth to mouth like kissing Gouramis. They would not let
go of each other. They were jerking their bodies and bumping into
each other....MALES?
>
> I checked their vents like someone mentioned and I can see a huge
difference as well as the humps on their heads. I put what I think
to be a male and female into the smaller tank. I left the original
male with the other females in the larger tank. I think I've got
(5) 3 females and 2 males. One of the males is much smaller so I
don't think at the moment dominance will be an issue until the
smaller male gets mature.
>
> What do you think, definately males? I've NEVER seen Angels fight
before!
>
> Now that I separated the two there is no fighting going on.....it
was soooo freaky!
>
> Thanks,
> Gayle
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21156 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Many acrylic tanks are one piece affairs, but some are not. Glass tanks
use a silicone sealant to hold them together. The acrylic tanks that are
made in pieces are epoxy'd together with a special formula that bonds
the edges together. You can see the silicone bead, there is no bead for
the epoxy.

Also, acrylic tends to scratch relatively easily. If the bottom of the
tank where the gravel was is scratched, it is most likely acrylic. You
generally do not see this in glass tanks.

Although it is pretty hard to avoid these days, I will shy away from
tanks made with tempered glass. Tempered glass will shatter rather than
crack. If you have a break, there goes your tank all at once with very
little time to save what lives within. If you just have a crack, at
least you have some time to move things out, and not have to chase all
over the floor for them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 4:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks

I heard the main way to differentiate between acrylic and glass tanks
is the apoxy'd seams, and that acrylic doesn' t have them but glass
does.

Does that make sense? I thought I bought a used acrylic
one........but it has apoxy'd seams. Someone just told me they think I
have glass 55 gallon tank. I don't think so....I carried it in myself
from the car. I am about 5'8.

anyone know?

thanks
Patti M

sorry I appear so ignorant, but I am....at this subject <grin>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21157 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
If you carried the 55G by yourself and it wasn't REALLY heavy for you, then
you have acrylic. Actually, acrylic has epoxy on it's seams. Glass has
silicone. Acrylic will normally have rounded corners in the front two sides
that are seamless (but not always), where glass will have those corners
siliconed together (almost always). My 65G acrylic weighed about 25 pounds
when empty. A 55G glass tank weighs around 100 pounds. The acrylic is less
than 1/4" thick and is semi-flexible where you can press on it and it will
flex a little. Glass would be around 1/2" thick and hard and should not
flex.

Based on what you said, I believe you have acrylic. Acrylic normally costs
much more than glass counterparts so hopefully you got a really good deal.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks

I heard the main way to differentiate between acrylic and glass tanks is
the apoxy'd seams, and that acrylic doesn' t have them but glass does.

Does that make sense? I thought I bought a used acrylic one........but it
has apoxy'd seams. Someone just told me they think I have glass 55 gallon
tank. I don't think so....I carried it in myself from the car. I am about
5'8.

anyone know?

thanks
Patti M

sorry I appear so ignorant, but I am....at this subject <grin>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21158 From: Steve Szabo Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Lenny,

Perhaps in your area 90% of the common tropical fish can live in your
water. That is not the case in many areas of the country, if you
consider living to be healthy, happy, and breeding. It is true that many
fish can survive in water that is not natural to them. It is true that
one should not muck about with things like pH, hardness and the like.
What is really true is that one should get fish that will do well in the
water that is at hand.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

It's best not to use chemicals in a tank unless you have the knowledge
to
know how they will affect other things. Most people tap/source water is
fine for 90% of the common tropical fish out there. It's always best to
get
fish that fit your water, than trying to alter your water chemistry...
unless you have the experience level necessary to do this effectively
and
safely.

That being said, I think your water is fine for most fish. What fish
are
you considering?

Are you "fishless cycling" this new tank using clear/plain ammonia? If
so,
you are NOT ready to "ADD fish" yet. How long have you had the no-fish
tank
set up? What are your plans to make it safe for your fish or are you
planning on "cycling with fish"? Just adding stress-zyme and bio-zyme
will
not do the trick and if you add fish, you will be doing daily testing
(for
up to two months) and possibly daily 25% PWC's, depending on the number
of
fish you add.

You could check with your LFS to see if they sell Bio-Spira (must be
kept
refrigerated) or order some Bio-Spira off the net at
http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html. If you decide on Bio-Spira,
you
should probably do a 90% PWC to get all them other chemicals out of your
tank and run some fresh carbon to get any that the large PWC misses.. in
fact, I try to dissuade people from using all of the different chemicals
in
their "closed ecology" tanks in the first place. It's not necessary and
can
turn your tank into a chemical cess pool over time.

If you are not familiar with "The Nitrogen Cycle", check out my Blog
http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and look at the "A to Z of Fish Keeping"
blog
where I list sites that will teach you those things I talked about
above, as
well as two different "online tutorials" you can take to teach you more
about the things you will need to know when setting up a new tank.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 9:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

Hi again. Okay, went to the LFS tonite and the ph in this area is about
7.6, common, and they told me not to be concerned with that. So went
home
and tested again, and ..... my Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is only at
80,
and in the Mardel 5/1 test strip book, it says ph is only accurate when
tested if Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is 120 or greater. So....I am
fluctuating between 80-120. Would you recommend adding something to
boost
this?

I think I will add the Stress Zyme, (havent't done that yet, only
added
Biozyme one time) tomorrow, have to buy. That should help offset my
amonia
reading of .50 now.

Amonia has been fluctuating .25 to .50. It is hard to tell as the
"stick"
has maybe a hint of pink, so I will go get a better test for that too...
These sticks are hard to read, like, is it this color or the next one
up!
LOL!

Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, hardness 120.

So actually I think I am doing pretty good. after I add the Stress
Zyme,
and let it sit for a day or two, retest and if amonia level closer to
zero..... ADD fish?!!!!

I have not cleaned yet, but it has only been 10 days, with nothing in
the
aquarium.

Any ideas, thoughts, etc. you experienced people you ?? <smile>

fun! challenging. And I don't have plants or salt LOL!

Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21159 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...
Yeah... I guess 90% was a little over-reaching. I did quantify that by
saying, "...It's always best to get fish that fit your water, than trying to
alter your water chemistry...". I know that if you hope for your fish to
breed, then having water parameters, close to their native waters, is
usually needed.

Thanks for your always insightful information. I've learned a lot from
reading your posts over the years... as well as many others out here.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 6:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

Lenny,

Perhaps in your area 90% of the common tropical fish can live in your water.
That is not the case in many areas of the country, if you consider living to
be healthy, happy, and breeding. It is true that many fish can survive in
water that is not natural to them. It is true that one should not muck about
with things like pH, hardness and the like.
What is really true is that one should get fish that will do well in the
water that is at hand.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 5:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

It's best not to use chemicals in a tank unless you have the knowledge to
know how they will affect other things. Most people tap/source water is
fine for 90% of the common tropical fish out there. It's always best to get
fish that fit your water, than trying to alter your water chemistry...
unless you have the experience level necessary to do this effectively and
safely.

That being said, I think your water is fine for most fish. What fish are
you considering?

Are you "fishless cycling" this new tank using clear/plain ammonia? If so,
you are NOT ready to "ADD fish" yet. How long have you had the no-fish tank
set up? What are your plans to make it safe for your fish or are you
planning on "cycling with fish"? Just adding stress-zyme and bio-zyme will
not do the trick and if you add fish, you will be doing daily testing (for
up to two months) and possibly daily 25% PWC's, depending on the number of
fish you add.

You could check with your LFS to see if they sell Bio-Spira (must be kept
refrigerated) or order some Bio-Spira off the net at
http://fishstoretn.com/store_index.html. If you decide on Bio-Spira, you
should probably do a 90% PWC to get all them other chemicals out of your
tank and run some fresh carbon to get any that the large PWC misses.. in
fact, I try to dissuade people from using all of the different chemicals in
their "closed ecology" tanks in the first place. It's not necessary and can
turn your tank into a chemical cess pool over time.

If you are not familiar with "The Nitrogen Cycle", check out my Blog
http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and look at the "A to Z of Fish Keeping"
blog
where I list sites that will teach you those things I talked about above, as
well as two different "online tutorials" you can take to teach you more
about the things you will need to know when setting up a new tank.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com Biz Site -
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 9:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity low...

Hi again. Okay, went to the LFS tonite and the ph in this area is about
7.6, common, and they told me not to be concerned with that. So went home
and tested again, and ..... my Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is only at 80,
and in the Mardel 5/1 test strip book, it says ph is only accurate when
tested if Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity is 120 or greater. So....I am
fluctuating between 80-120. Would you recommend adding something to boost
this?

I think I will add the Stress Zyme, (havent't done that yet, only added
Biozyme one time) tomorrow, have to buy. That should help offset my amonia
reading of .50 now.

Amonia has been fluctuating .25 to .50. It is hard to tell as the "stick"
has maybe a hint of pink, so I will go get a better test for that too...
These sticks are hard to read, like, is it this color or the next one up!
LOL!

Nitrate 0, Nitrite 0, hardness 120.

So actually I think I am doing pretty good. after I add the Stress Zyme,
and let it sit for a day or two, retest and if amonia level closer to
zero..... ADD fish?!!!!

I have not cleaned yet, but it has only been 10 days, with nothing in the
aquarium.

Any ideas, thoughts, etc. you experienced people you ?? <smile>

fun! challenging. And I don't have plants or salt LOL!

Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21160 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 2/27/2007
Subject: Re: Angelfish Fighting????
Thanks sooooo much for the reply!

I personally think they are both males as they were really going at it and
biting each others lips. One actually had a fat lip and I thought he was
getting mouth rot! LOL

But they just would not leave each other alone, so I did separate them. I
put each with what I think to be females and they are not fighting or what
appears to be fighting.

Thanks again!
Gayle



----- Original Message -----

Hi Gayle: I have had my angel fish do this. It can be two males
fighting or it could be a couple that is ready to mate. Not all
couples do this (only one of mind did). I had a pair that used to
do that before spawning and after. Other pairs, never acted like
this. It seems every angel is different so it is hard to say what
sex they really are without the experts having good close up
pictures of them. Deborah D

ps If their vents are out, it means they are ready to spawn.
pss I have had to separate many an angel with this happening.
remember they are cichlids and they are semi-agressive fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21161 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
Hi everybody. I have tetras (neon, cardinal, and green fire) and long fin
Albino cory. The tetras was 10 each and my cory are 6. The cardinals have
Ich like stuff on their bodies but I had tried, Quick Cure (supposed to be
Just 2 day cure), then Melafix and Pimafix, and then Aquarisol. Not at the
Same time. Anyway only the cardinals are the ones that have the ICH (white
Spots) on their bodies. The other fishes don't seem to have them.

I also have a problem with snail infestation. I have some live plants and
Aquarium soil and then all of a sudden, I have snails and lots of it. Well,
I keep catching them and squeezing them to death but they keep appearing
(not much about 3 to 4 daily). Can yellow balloon rams be used to eradicate
The snails? What about chemicals but won't kill the plants or the fishes.
Thanks in advance.

THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21162 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
The last time I had ich it took three weeks of the treatment along with adding salt and no lights with a higher temperature. The problem with ich is that it is not gone once off the fish. They drop into the rocks at the bottom, multiply and then swim around looking for a host. This is why you have a higher temp (they don't tolerate too well and speeds up the cycle) and with no lights they have a hard time finding a host. This said I almost lost all of my live plants. For snails, I bought a clown loach who loves to eat them. They get big so you have to have enough space in your tank. I have a 55 gallon....

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Rei - Raymond Tremor
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 2:49 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)


Hi everybody. I have tetras (neon, cardinal, and green fire) and long fin
Albino cory. The tetras was 10 each and my cory are 6. The cardinals have
Ich like stuff on their bodies but I had tried, Quick Cure (supposed to be
Just 2 day cure), then Melafix and Pimafix, and then Aquarisol. Not at the
Same time. Anyway only the cardinals are the ones that have the ICH (white
Spots) on their bodies. The other fishes don't seem to have them.

I also have a problem with snail infestation. I have some live plants and
Aquarium soil and then all of a sudden, I have snails and lots of it. Well,
I keep catching them and squeezing them to death but they keep appearing
(not much about 3 to 4 daily). Can yellow balloon rams be used to eradicate
The snails? What about chemicals but won't kill the plants or the fishes.
Thanks in advance.

THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21163 From: NHSNOLA Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail also)
Here's a good article on various treatment plans for Ich.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

Do NOT use chemicals for snail eradication. Most of them will harm your
fish and plants... even though many say they are safe. While a clown loach
will eat lots of snails, they get really big, over 12" and up to 20" so they
are best used in BIG tanks unless your LFS will allow you to trade them in
for smaller one as needed to avoid stunting the clown loach. They also
prefer to be in groups which make the tank needs even larger if you wanted
to keep them. Look at Kuhli or Skunk loaches as an alternative.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frederic Ouellet
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 5:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Help with ICH like disease but won't go away
(Snail also)

The last time I had ich it took three weeks of the treatment along with
adding salt and no lights with a higher temperature. The problem with ich
is that it is not gone once off the fish. They drop into the rocks at the
bottom, multiply and then swim around looking for a host. This is why you
have a higher temp (they don't tolerate too well and speeds up the cycle)
and with no lights they have a hard time finding a host. This said I almost
lost all of my live plants. For snails, I bought a clown loach who loves to
eat them. They get big so you have to have enough space in your tank. I
have a 55 gallon....

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Rei - Raymond Tremor
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 2:49 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with ICH like disease but won't go away (Snail
also)


Hi everybody. I have tetras (neon, cardinal, and green fire) and long fin
Albino cory. The tetras was 10 each and my cory are 6. The cardinals have
Ich like stuff on their bodies but I had tried, Quick Cure (supposed to be
Just 2 day cure), then Melafix and Pimafix, and then Aquarisol. Not at the
Same time. Anyway only the cardinals are the ones that have the ICH (white
Spots) on their bodies. The other fishes don't seem to have them.

I also have a problem with snail infestation. I have some live plants and
Aquarium soil and then all of a sudden, I have snails and lots of it.
Well,
I keep catching them and squeezing them to death but they keep appearing
(not much about 3 to 4 daily). Can yellow balloon rams be used to
eradicate
The snails? What about chemicals but won't kill the plants or the fishes.
Thanks in advance.

THANKS,
RAYMOND TREMOR





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21164 From: Patti M. Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
Hi, thanks again Lenny. I bet it is acrylic too. It was definately not 25 lbs......my hand/wrist hurt for days...holding on for dear life from car to townhome! LOL!

Well, I guess I will keep the one I started out with, and sell the tempered glass one I picked up yesterday. Hopefully, one day I will upgrade to a different size not from one to other but same sized tanks.......a lot of work!

thanks again.
Patti

NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
If you carried the 55G by yourself and it wasn't REALLY heavy for you, then
you have acrylic. Actually, acrylic has epoxy on it's seams. Glass has
silicone. Acrylic will normally have rounded corners in the front two sides
that are seamless (but not always), where glass will have those corners
siliconed together (almost always). My 65G acrylic weighed about 25 pounds
when empty. A 55G glass tank weighs around 100 pounds. The acrylic is less
than 1/4" thick and is semi-flexible where you can press on it and it will
flex a little. Glass would be around 1/2" thick and hard and should not
flex.

Based on what you said, I believe you have acrylic. Acrylic normally costs
much more than glass counterparts so hopefully you got a really good deal.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Patti M.
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 3:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks

I heard the main way to differentiate between acrylic and glass tanks is
the apoxy'd seams, and that acrylic doesn' t have them but glass does.

Does that make sense? I thought I bought a used acrylic one........but it
has apoxy'd seams. Someone just told me they think I have glass 55 gallon
tank. I don't think so....I carried it in myself from the car. I am about
5'8.

anyone know?

thanks
Patti M

sorry I appear so ignorant, but I am....at this subject <grin>






---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21165 From: gail hopkins Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: A simpler way to get started
I agree that Hikari is tops if you can find it. I suggested the more common water conditioner simply because of availability. I forgot about check valves on the airlines. Lighting is more important that most people think Natural lighting form a window is best but don't place the tank to close as temp fluctuations can be hard on your fish. fish kept in lighted tanks (14-16 hours of light followed by dark) grow better, have better color, are less stressed and have a stronger immune systems. Lighting will allows for normal algae growth which fish love to eat, reduces nitrate production, and raises the dissolved oxygen, and algae provide a slick covering on ornaments. some algae should be allowed in the tank but don't let it take over!
Keep us posted


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21166 From: Pickles Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
HI ,
I am 5'3" and I have carried many a glass 55 gallon tank by myself. They can't weigh
a 100 lbs if I could carry one around...(I cant carry one now because of my back and
wrist)...The main problem I had was my arms are short and the tanks are long and
deep...so they really were more awkward than heavy for me...
Glass tanks are going to have the black or brown plastic rims on top and bottom,
while the acrylics tanks might only have it on the bottom or most not at all...and
the ones I have seen aren't completely open on top , they have molded openings for
strength...and they have the sealer on the back two sides, not usually in the
front...Got any pictures of you tank??
I much prefer glass as they don't scratch nearly as easily and if for some reason
they were to leak, or a piece gets broken or cracked, they are fixable, while the
acrylics are not...at least not as easily...I used to sell both and it seems most
people liked the glass over the acrylics....I know I do...Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21167 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 2/28/2007
Subject: Re: Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks
I have a 55 gallon glass tank that DOES take two people or a hand truck to move. Thick glass! I have another with thinner glass that I can move by myself.

As far as fixing Acrylic tanks. It depends. If it is a crack in the back or on a seam it can easily be patched and not a big eye sore. If I had a tank with a crack, I would not even try to patch it, but replace the glass pane which is more time consuming than a patch.

When I moved last year I was sliding my favorite glass tank in the bed of my truck and gentled bumped the bottom corner of the tank on the fender of the bed. It crunched all three panes of glass, runied it. I have done the same with an acrylic and not destroyed the tank.

There are pros and cons to both like others have mentioned.

Acrylic scratches easy, but is lighter.
Glass is harder to scratch but sometimes easier to break.

I used to prefer acrylic because I know how to patch them, polish, and buff out scratches.
Now I don't feel like hassling with fixing scratches and am looking for more used glass tanks as they are much cheaper than acrylic tanks. Part or of why I liked acrylic so much is I move every year and it was easier to move tanks by myself when they are acrylic.

Someday I want to build a monster tank and will probably use plywood for bottoms and sides and thick glass for the front pane.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: pickles97355@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tempered Glass or Acrylic tanks


HI ,
I am 5'3" and I have carried many a glass 55 gallon tank by myself. They can't weigh
a 100 lbs if I could carry one around...(I cant carry one now because of my back and
wrist)...The main problem I had was my arms are short and the tanks are long and
deep...so they really were more awkward than heavy for me...
Glass tanks are going to have the black or brown plastic rims on top and bottom,
while the acrylics tanks might only have it on the bottom or most not at all...and
the ones I have seen aren't completely open on top , they have molded openings for
strength...and they have the sealer on the back two sides, not usually in the
front...Got any pictures of you tank??
I much prefer glass as they don't scratch nearly as easily and if for some reason
they were to leak, or a piece gets broken or cracked, they are fixable, while the
acrylics are not...at least not as easily...I used to sell both and it seems most
people liked the glass over the acrylics....I know I do...Mary

.

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21168 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Filter question
Hello I'm new here.

I have a question on filters. I have a HOT filter, which uses a
submerged pump. It is very quiet: I don't hear any noise at all, but
when I put my ear on the tank, I hear/feel some noise and vibration.
Since noise and vibration are not good for my aquatic pets, I am
considering to buy a canister filter.

My question is...which one is better in terms of noise and vibration,
Eheim 2213 or Fulval 104? Also, has anyone tried Eheim 2076/2078? If
so, how is it as for noise and vibration? Thanks.

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21169 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Personally I like Rena filters. I'm using a Rena XP3 on my 100g and it's great. Easy to clean, easy to restart after cleaning, and quiet.

Just my $.02.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: pond_watcher
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 7:45 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter question


Hello I'm new here.

I have a question on filters. I have a HOT filter, which uses a
submerged pump. It is very quiet: I don't hear any noise at all, but
when I put my ear on the tank, I hear/feel some noise and vibration.
Since noise and vibration are not good for my aquatic pets, I am
considering to buy a canister filter.

My question is...which one is better in terms of noise and vibration,
Eheim 2213 or Fulval 104? Also, has anyone tried Eheim 2076/2078? If
so, how is it as for noise and vibration? Thanks.

Ken





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21170 From: Pickles Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
A lot of you may have noticed that there aren't many emails coming through to your
home email from yahoo groups yesterday and today. I am not sure what is happening,
but rest assured its not just you that is having trouble receiving posts...if you
want to see if you have missed anything go to your groups home page to read messages
there...I see its getting a bit better this morning, but I am still only getting a
smattering here and there...Hope they get it fixed soon. Anyone know for sure what
has happened? Thanks ...Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21171 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Ooops.. I forgot about the AquaticLife group but I think Yahoo reset
everyone to "No Mail". At least it happened on other groups I belong to.

To fix this, go to the Yahoo Group, sign in, then "Edit My Membership" and
fix your preferences.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?

A lot of you may have noticed that there aren't many emails coming through
to your home email from yahoo groups yesterday and today. I am not sure what
is happening, but rest assured its not just you that is having trouble
receiving posts...if you want to see if you have missed anything go to your
groups home page to read messages there...I see its getting a bit better
this morning, but I am still only getting a smattering here and there...Hope
they get it fixed soon. Anyone know for sure what has happened? Thanks
...Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21172 From: Patti M. Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
Hi, I am back to receiving emails directly now on this group and others.

thanks!
Patti M

NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
Ooops.. I forgot about the AquaticLife group but I think Yahoo reset
everyone to "No Mail". At least it happened on other groups I belong to.

To fix this, go to the Yahoo Group, sign in, then "Edit My Membership" and
fix your preferences.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?

A lot of you may have noticed that there aren't many emails coming through
to your home email from yahoo groups yesterday and today. I am not sure what
is happening, but rest assured its not just you that is having trouble
receiving posts...if you want to see if you have missed anything go to your
groups home page to read messages there...I see its getting a bit better
this morning, but I am still only getting a smattering here and there...Hope
they get it fixed soon. Anyone know for sure what has happened? Thanks
...Mary






---------------------------------
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21173 From: Pickles Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Some Groups not receiving email messages
Hi all,
I just got this from another list..at least they aware of it and trying to fix
it....Mary

To: <yg-alerts@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 2:50 PM
Subject: [yg-alerts] Some Groups not receiving email messages

> We want to acknowledge the reports that not all groups are receiving
> email. Some of these groups are seeing the posts on their group
> archive on the Web, but not receiving them via email. This problem has
> been difficult to diagnose, since it is affecting some groups but not
> others.
>
> Our engineers have been investigating the root cause since we became
> aware of the problem last night. We will continue to work on this and
> will keep you updated via the Groups Team Blog:
> http://blog.360.yahoo.com/y_groups_team .
>
> In the meantime, we appreciate your patience and apologize for the
> inconvenience.
>
> The Yahoo! Groups Team
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21174 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa" <scfigueroa@...>
wrote:
>
> Personally I like Rena filters. I'm using a Rena XP3 on my 100g and
it's great. Easy to clean, easy to restart after cleaning, and quiet.

Thanks, I will take it into my choices.

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21175 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/1/2007
Subject: Re: Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?
If they have set everyone to no mail, the certainly missed me and the
groups I belong to. Unless one visits the web site to check on mail sent
to the groups, and notices that there is a discrepancy, I'd not worry
too much about it. Yahoo is famous for delaying delivery of mail. I got
a couple of mails the other day that were originally sent in early
February, a not uncommon event.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 4:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?

Ooops.. I forgot about the AquaticLife group but I think Yahoo reset
everyone to "No Mail". At least it happened on other groups I belong
to.

To fix this, go to the Yahoo Group, sign in, then "Edit My Membership"
and
fix your preferences.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 1:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Off Topic- Trouble with Yahoo groups?

A lot of you may have noticed that there aren't many emails coming
through
to your home email from yahoo groups yesterday and today. I am not sure
what
is happening, but rest assured its not just you that is having trouble
receiving posts...if you want to see if you have missed anything go to
your
groups home page to read messages there...I see its getting a bit better
this morning, but I am still only getting a smattering here and
there...Hope
they get it fixed soon. Anyone know for sure what has happened? Thanks
...Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21177 From: Aaron Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Movies & TV shows w/ Aquariums (New Blog)
My Blog URL ~

http://blog.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Movies and TV Shows with Aquariums

Category: Movies, TV, Celebrities

Hi Everybody, thanks for reading.

I need your help.

I have a fascination with Aquariums that are in Movie scenes and TV
Shows.

I want to create (or find, if it already exists, as that would be a
lot easier) a list of them.

For Example, I just saw a Movie on TV (Freeway) that had an Aquarium,
maybe 100 gallon Tru-Vu sorta built into the wall in the House (with
Brooke Shields). It was towards the end of the movie and if ya
blinked you mighta missed it.

There are other Movies where the Aquarium is not only more prominent,
it is used as part of the action not just for set decoration - such
as in (I think) a Lethal Weapon Movie where the huge wall tank
shatters and knocks down the (stunt doubles for) main character and
bad guy.

I already have a good start to the list of titles on the profile in
the Movies and the TV section on the Left, but those are different,
those are movies about Aquatic Life. I'm looking to create a (3rd)
list of "back drop" or action sequence related aquariums.

Duece Bigelow is a great example of both types. First the aquarium is
just there looking pretty, then ... (well, if ya have not seen it
yet, I do not want to ruin it for you - it was worth it just for the
action scenes)


so the list would include
the Title, Year,
and scenes with the aquarium(s) ~

you can leave comments and I will update the blog as we go, thanks

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

* Deuce Bigalow: Male Gigolo (1999)
(various scences, main Aquarium is set in House that title Character
is "Fish Sitting", a scence in a Local Fish Store)

* Freeway (1996)
(an Aquarium, maybe 100 gallon Tru-Vu sorta built into the wall in
the House with Brooke Shields)

* Rushmore (1998)
(Multiple aquariums lined up under the windows of the classroom, the
teacher is cleaning them and a student drops a lot of food into 1 of
the tanks)

1:01 AM - 3 Comments - 0 Kudos - Add Comment - Edit - Remove



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Just waching the Television and the Movie "About A Boy" is on and
> the character played by Hugh Grant lives in this place with a
> Large 'Window in a Wall' tank that lets you see through the wall
and
> out the window.
>
> I have noticed alot of movies and TV shows that feature aquariums
as
> part of the set.
>
> Can you list any shows that you've seen aquariums in, especially
> those that played an integral part of the script, i.e. "Duece
> Bigelow", etc...
>
> Have a great weekend,
> Aaron
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21178 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
I Just bought two fulval 204 and a 404.
I really love them. Easy to clean and restart. One of the cool things
is you and change the filter media to fit the needs of your tank. I
got bought both of them at 50 Half off at a LFS, the 204 I think was
being upgraded by Fulval.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Personally I like Rena filters. I'm using a Rena XP3 on my 100g and
it's great. Easy to clean, easy to restart after cleaning, and quiet.
>
> Just my $.02.
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: pond_watcher
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 7:45 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter question
>
>
> Hello I'm new here.
>
> I have a question on filters. I have a HOT filter, which uses a
> submerged pump. It is very quiet: I don't hear any noise at all, but
> when I put my ear on the tank, I hear/feel some noise and vibration.
> Since noise and vibration are not good for my aquatic pets, I am
> considering to buy a canister filter.
>
> My question is...which one is better in terms of noise and vibration,
> Eheim 2213 or Fulval 104? Also, has anyone tried Eheim 2076/2078? If
> so, how is it as for noise and vibration? Thanks.
>
> Ken
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21179 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dylan_james_75"
<dylan_james_75@...> wrote:
> I Just bought two fulval 204 and a 404.
> I really love them. Easy to clean and restart.
> One of the cool things
> is you and change the filter media to fit the needs of your tank. I
> got bought both of them at 50 Half off at a LFS, the 204 I think was
> being upgraded by Fulval.

Thanks for the reply. Fluval filters also seem useful. My concern is
whether or not the pump of the filter causes some vibration in tank
water. My pets (xenopus laevis) do not like any noise/vibration.

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21180 From: Martin VanderWal Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Dear Ken,

Just speaking from my own experience: I just put my ear up against my 30 gal, running
with a Fluval 204. No noise or vibration coming from the tank at all. None.

Speaking generally, and maybe more out of ignorance here: my best guess is that any
canister filter will work out for your requirements. As far as vibrations are concerned, you
can easily isolate the filters from your tanks and aquarium stands.

Martin VanderWal

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pond_watcher" <sleepless_viewer@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dylan_james_75"
> <dylan_james_75@> wrote:
> > I Just bought two fulval 204 and a 404.
> > I really love them. Easy to clean and restart.
> > One of the cool things
> > is you and change the filter media to fit the needs of your tank. I
> > got bought both of them at 50 Half off at a LFS, the 204 I think was
> > being upgraded by Fulval.
>
> Thanks for the reply. Fluval filters also seem useful. My concern is
> whether or not the pump of the filter causes some vibration in tank
> water. My pets (xenopus laevis) do not like any noise/vibration.
>
> Ken
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21181 From: pond_watcher Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Thank you very much, Martin. I wanted that info. Thanks!

Ken

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Martin VanderWal" <pastor@...>
wrote:
>
> Dear Ken,
>
> Just speaking from my own experience: I just put my ear up against
my 30 gal, running
> with a Fluval 204. No noise or vibration coming from the tank at
all. None.
>
> Speaking generally, and maybe more out of ignorance here: my best
guess is that any
> canister filter will work out for your requirements. As far as
vibrations are concerned, you
> can easily isolate the filters from your tanks and aquarium stands.
>
> Martin VanderWal
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21183 From: Pickles Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
HI,
One reason they may be very hungry just after you get them might depend how long the
Pet Shop had them and when they were last transported. The shipper doesn't usually
feed the fish for several days prior to shipping so there is less waste and
ammonia.in the transport bags and if they are just the wholesaler and not the
breeder, they may not feed them at all...the entire time they have them...and if they
came from some where else, chances are they weren't feed for awhile before they
shipped them...etc.. Then after the pet shop gets them , they don't always feed,
sometimes for few days, or might just feed a little...most pet shops I know of don't
put out a lot in feed as it raises their costs...and if they are a popular fish they
might not have them very long so they take that into consideration...so you might
find your fish to be less hungry the longer you have them...I wouldn't over feed them
right now...just give them a normal amount of food..they can eat themselves
sick....fish can go for an extended period of time with no food, until they just drop
dead...Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve" <steve01@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids


> is there anything else i should be feeding my pseudotropheus acei msuli
> besides cichlid floating pellets and cichlid flakes is so what else
> should i feed them these little guys r so hungry all the time i just
> got them yesterday and feed them 4 times and the gobble it all up maybe
> i just need to make each meal bigger
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21184 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Cori's...
Hi Everyone,

I recently got a few cori's to go in my betta
tanks. They are pretty neat little fish. Does
anyone have any suggestions for treats or toys
or anything? I did find out they need to have
more of their own to be happy (was told they
didn't, by the sales clerk) so I will be adding
one more to each tank. That'll give me three
fish in each five gallon tank. A male betta
and two cori's. Too much? The betta's are
clean and the cori's like to take in air as
well so I thought it might be ok. I should
have known better than to listen to someone
that just works there and didn't really care.



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21185 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
pseudotropheus acei are herbivores, so you probably want to stay away from the frozen brine shrimp and the like ... I have a few Labeotropheus fuelleborni which are also herbivores so drop a couple sinking alge tablets, and I cut up a piece of zucchinni or sqaush and put it on a clip. All my cichlids both Haps, Peacock, and mbuna (which in my case are herbivores) .. tear it up!!


steve <steve01@...> wrote: is there anything else i should be feeding my pseudotropheus acei msuli
besides cichlid floating pellets and cichlid flakes is so what else
should i feed them these little guys r so hungry all the time i just
got them yesterday and feed them 4 times and the gobble it all up maybe
i just need to make each meal bigger






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21186 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids
IME it is best to feed them once/day at most, and many people even skip a
day. Mbuna like your Acei will beg like they are starving even as they eat
themselves to death (literally). You should feed a food which is 35%
protein or less, which is pretty hard to find actually. As long as each
fish gets a couple of bites, they are getting enough. Overfeeding is the #1
cause of death.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 3:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids



is there anything else i should be feeding my pseudotropheus acei msuli
besides cichlid floating pellets and cichlid flakes is so what else
should i feed them these little guys r so hungry all the time i just
got them yesterday and feed them 4 times and the gobble it all up maybe
i just need to make each meal bigger





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21187 From: Rev. Eric Roberts Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: feeding my cichlids
My cichlid tank get fed after my other tank. They see me feeding my other
fish and bunch up by where the lid is waiting to get fed hehehe…it very
funny to watch. I use the small cichlid pellets, regular flakes, algae
discs (pleco in there too…but the cichlids like them as well). They even
like the occasional ghost shrimp and feeder guppy.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 2:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids




HI,
One reason they may be very hungry just after you get them might depend how
long the
Pet Shop had them and when they were last transported. The shipper doesn't
usually
feed the fish for several days prior to shipping so there is less waste and
ammonia.in the transport bags and if they are just the wholesaler and not
the
breeder, they may not feed them at all...the entire time they have
them...and if they
came from some where else, chances are they weren't feed for awhile before
they
shipped them...etc.. Then after the pet shop gets them , they don't always
feed,
sometimes for few days, or might just feed a little...most pet shops I know
of don't
put out a lot in feed as it raises their costs...and if they are a popular
fish they
might not have them very long so they take that into consideration...so you
might
find your fish to be less hungry the longer you have them...I wouldn't over
feed them
right now...just give them a normal amount of food..they can eat themselves
sick....fish can go for an extended period of time with no food, until they
just drop
dead...Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve" <steve01@... <mailto:steve01%40yahoo.com> >
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 12:03 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids

> is there anything else i should be feeding my pseudotropheus acei msuli
> besides cichlid floating pellets and cichlid flakes is so what else
> should i feed them these little guys r so hungry all the time i just
> got them yesterday and feed them 4 times and the gobble it all up maybe
> i just need to make each meal bigger
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21188 From: Wilma Duncan Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids
Shippping is a flat rate of $8.oo priority mail with insurance and styrofoam box, no limit on orders, mystery snails are medium to adult nerities to adult and medium.
Wilma

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: IME it is best to feed them once/day at most, and many people even skip a
day. Mbuna like your Acei will beg like they are starving even as they eat
themselves to death (literally). You should feed a food which is 35%
protein or less, which is pretty hard to find actually. As long as each
fish gets a couple of bites, they are getting enough. Overfeeding is the #1
cause of death.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 3:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] feeding my cichlids

is there anything else i should be feeding my pseudotropheus acei msuli
besides cichlid floating pellets and cichlid flakes is so what else
should i feed them these little guys r so hungry all the time i just
got them yesterday and feed them 4 times and the gobble it all up maybe
i just need to make each meal bigger

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Need a quick answer? Get one in minutes from people who know. Ask your question on Yahoo! Answers.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21189 From: larry Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: just got cichlids
Hey everyone i just purchased 2 kribs and 2 brachardi cichlids. they
are only 3 months old so not showing colors yet. they are a great
addition to my community tank and i am thinking of getting two more
pairs of each so they have sum more buddies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21190 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/2/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
I think any canister filter would cause far less "vibration" that makes it
back to the tank since it's removed from the tank and the rubber hoses
should buffer any possible vibrations. A filter hanging on the tank would
be more likely to cause the effect you are worried about.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pond_watcher
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 8:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Filter question

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dylan_james_75"
<dylan_james_75@...> wrote:
> I Just bought two fulval 204 and a 404.
> I really love them. Easy to clean and restart.
> One of the cool things
> is you and change the filter media to fit the needs of your tank. I
> got bought both of them at 50 Half off at a LFS, the 204 I think was
> being upgraded by Fulval.

Thanks for the reply. Fluval filters also seem useful. My concern is whether
or not the pump of the filter causes some vibration in tank water. My pets
(xenopus laevis) do not like any noise/vibration.

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21191 From: dylan aldred Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter question
Yea. Sorry I did not really answer your question earlier. I must not have had enough coffee' yesterday morning. I even found myself thinking at work, did I forget to tell you that I have no issues with Vibration or noise with the Fluval filters.

----- Original Message ----
From: pond_watcher <sleepless_viewer@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 8:35:30 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Filter question













--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "dylan_james_ 75"

<dylan_james_ 75@...> wrote:

> I Just bought two fulval 204 and a 404.

> I really love them. Easy to clean and restart.

> One of the cool things

> is you and change the filter media to fit the needs of your tank. I

> got bought both of them at 50 Half off at a LFS, the 204 I think was

> being upgraded by Fulval.



Thanks for the reply. Fluval filters also seem useful. My concern is

whether or not the pump of the filter causes some vibration in tank

water. My pets (xenopus laevis) do not like any noise/vibration.



Ken














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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21193 From: harryfisherman Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Breeding questions
I will be breeding,killifish, galaxy rasbora and bettas. Any
advice. Thanks
Harry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21194 From: armitaget Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Also - strange helping behaviour...
The black moor was also helping the Comet. When they were still in the
same tank and the comet had been floating for a while and had just
been resuscitated so newly swimming in the tank again, the black moor
would get under the comet and float her up toward the middle of the
tank. It would then swim nearby and if she started to roll he would
help right her - once she seemed stable he quit this behaviour and
just watched her. Isnt that something? He wasn't bumping her or being
aggressive - he is just so fat and huge that he made a perfect float
for the four inch comet! He has been her best friend for years now and
they are good buddies. I know for sure that fish have longer than
three second memories:-)
Terri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21195 From: armitaget Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
I have a large Comet (oringinally a feeder fish for 10 cents) sharing
a 10 gallon tank with a 5 yr old Black Moor and a pleco.
We call her Dusty because a few times over the years she has escaped
the tank when we were not home and been dry and dusty when we found
her and yet lived when returned to the tank.

She is very large about 4 inches long and an inch or so wide.

Suddenly after all theses years she began floating on her side. The
other fish seem fine. PH was a little low on the water. I did a 25%
water change and added some salt. She recovered a little and began to
swim slowly upright for a while, but not eating.

I went to the pet store last night and spent thirty dollars on
everything the experts thought I should try and I ended up separating
her into a half gallon bowl and adding Melafix. She was floating on
her side all night and all day. I ran up to the drug store just now on
advice from websurfing and bought codliver oil. Held her with a cloth
and put a couple of drops in her mouth. Now she is upright again for
the first time since yesterday. She shows no sign of digestive
activity and seems to appear "normal" - I am really scratching my
head. She was so bad off a few minutes ago that I thought she was
going to die for sure. What should I do now????

The pet store also said to feed her sinking food fom now on so she
doesnt gulp air...
Any help would be appreciated.
Terri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21196 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/3/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Not wanting to bash you but I have to be blunt here. NONE of your fish
should be living in a 10G tank. For those three fish, if your pleco is a
common pleco, you should have a 100G+ tank. The pleco should grow to over
18". The Comet should grow to 12"-15" and the Moor should grow to 8" but
big and fat. Technically, the Comet should be in a pond since they are such
big swimmers but a 100G+, 6' long tank will suffice. Your goldfish should
live to well over 20 years and the pleco over 15 years and up to 30 years...
depending on the species.

The so-called "experts" at the fish store should have told you that you need
a BIG tank instead of selling you a bunch of medicines and chemicals. They
will not save your fish. 10G simply is not enough water volume to handle
the bioload of your fish.

Here is a snip from a post I just made to another forum about the swim
bladder issues you had/have. Disregard anything not applicable to your
situation.

"...When I first got a few fancy goldfish (I had been a pond keeper for 10
years prior to just having my tank) several years ago, one of them had swim
bladder issues on a regular basis. What I found that works for me, is
pre-soaking their food in a little tank water, then feeding them. This keeps
them from gulping too much air from the surface and also gets the air out of
the food itself. I use this for flakes and certain sinking foods that seem
"porous". I also feed them pea "meat" (the skin discarded) on a weekly basis
to keep them *regular*. I haven't had swim bladder issues since..."

But I seriously don't think anything will keep your fish from having
successive health issues if you keep them in a 10G tank. It's just not
doable without lots of daily PWC's or if you have a free water source,
plumbing the tank for constant water turnover. That still doesn't give the
fish much swimming room but at least it gives them clean water with low
hormone levels to prevent stunting... which is also happening in the 10G
tank.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 7:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days

I have a large Comet (oringinally a feeder fish for 10 cents) sharing a 10
gallon tank with a 5 yr old Black Moor and a pleco.
We call her Dusty because a few times over the years she has escaped the
tank when we were not home and been dry and dusty when we found her and yet
lived when returned to the tank.

She is very large about 4 inches long and an inch or so wide.

Suddenly after all theses years she began floating on her side. The other
fish seem fine. PH was a little low on the water. I did a 25% water change
and added some salt. She recovered a little and began to swim slowly upright
for a while, but not eating.

I went to the pet store last night and spent thirty dollars on everything
the experts thought I should try and I ended up separating her into a half
gallon bowl and adding Melafix. She was floating on her side all night and
all day. I ran up to the drug store just now on advice from websurfing and
bought codliver oil. Held her with a cloth and put a couple of drops in her
mouth. Now she is upright again for the first time since yesterday. She
shows no sign of digestive activity and seems to appear "normal" - I am
really scratching my head. She was so bad off a few minutes ago that I
thought she was going to die for sure. What should I do now????

The pet store also said to feed her sinking food fom now on so she doesnt
gulp air...
Any help would be appreciated.
Terri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
I've wanted to get back to this topic, but just plain have not had the
time to do so until now.

Some of the other fish commonly altered by man have been bettas and
guppies, though they have not been toyed with for as long as koi and
goldfish. Guppies and goldfish are rather malleable genetically. If one
were able to go to the wild and collect a number of either of these fish
and maintain them through many generations, it would be noted that some
have changes in body shape, coloration, and/or finnage. If the fish were
still in the wild, these traits would be passed along to few, if any,
future generations, unless they were changes that were beneficial to the
survival of the fish. These fish would stand out from the crowd in one
way or another, and would soon become a meal for another creature.

Albinism is a trait that is occasionally found in all populations of all
animals. Albinism is described as the absence of pigment in the body,
and is often typified by white body coloration and pink eyes. Recently
there has been some debate about the exact definition of albinism, but
we can let this one stand for our purposes.

If a fish is an albino, it does not last very long in the wild. It
simply stands out too much from the rest of the crowd and is an easy
mark for predators. It would be an extraordinary event for an albino
specimen to survive to sexual maturity to pass its genes along to future
generations. However, albinos do show every so often, and this leads to
the various albino specimens we can purchase for our tanks. Albinism is
caused by a recessive gene or genes, which are always present in a
species to one extent or another, so it is simply the luck of the draw
to have these genes show in a specimen, with no dominant genes to
counter act their effect.

I really have nothing against the breeding and distribution of these
fish.

Back to the guppies after that aside. Keeping a population of guppies
will soon show the genetic variation of a population with different
colors, different patterning, etc. Since it is unlikely that you will
have a chance to collect wild guppies, you could substitute the feeder
guppies you find in many of your LFS. You would need to keep in mind
that the fish you see there may have already been influenced by various
breeding programs and are the descendants of rejects of those programs,
but the changes you see would be similar to a wild population, though
they may be more pronounced. You may wish to experiment with your own
breeding program is you see traits you like. Guppies are quick in
growing to sexual maturity and females will generally drop broods every
28 days, so you can see results quickly. While I am partial to the
"wild" type guppy, probably mainly because my grandmother kept them, I
do not have anything against the fancy types. One of the reasons for
this is that the fancy types should meet certain standards for body
size, coloration, and fin type, formation, and size as established by
the INGA (International Fancy Guppy Association).

The betta, and when I say betta in this missive, I mean _Betta
splendens_, also have an international body that sanctions what they
should look like, the International Betta Congress (IBC). There does
appear to be some debate as to what may be a wild type betta, or whether
they even exist any more, but there are lots of other Betta species that
have been discovered, with many of these being kept by aquarists. The
IBC even has a group that monitors this and encourages the keeping of
wild Betta species other than splendens.

The original splendens were kept by peoples in the Indo-China area and
used as fighting creatures, much along the lines of cock or dog fights
that you may be somewhat familiar with. Bets were made and fortunes won
or lost based on the outcome of a fight. Naturally, the fighting
characteristics were bred for and highly prized by these peoples. I am
not clear on the origins of the fancy bettas as we know them today. We
all do see them in the LFS for sale, often in tiny bowls. Actually,
bettas are raised in separate containers as soon as they can be sexed,
if not sooner, and you may hear betta aficionados speak of "jarring" the
young bettas, and looking for more efficient ways to raise them this
way. It is a very labor intensive project to raise young bettas to a
saleable size.

While the bettas you see in the stores are OK as far as the varieties
go, none of them would do well in a betta show. If you would want to get
quality bettas, you would need to get them from a breeder of bettas so
that you can see those that are much closer to the ideal as described by
the IBC.

As with the guppies, there is a wide variety colors and a more limited
variety of finnage. To see a really good betta flare its fins is truly a
site to behold. The single fins should form a complete circle. If You
draw a line starting at the nose of the fish around the fish, enclosing
the flared fines, it should be a complete circle. Truly a magnificent
sight.

I've kept both types of bettas in the past, and I do prefer the wild
types for their habits, and the challenges they offer.

Well, this is getting too long a post, though I hope you are still
following along. If you are interested in any of the fish discussed so
far, there are web sites for the national and international
organizations devoted to these fish that are easily accessible on the
web for your further research into these types of fish. I'd suggest you
go to these sites first, rather than going t the sites of individuals,
and once you have a good understanding of the information given by the
organization sites, then go off to the individual sites. You'll have
better criteria to use to separate the wheat from the chaff.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, Yes indfeed! First the Koreans and then the Chinese came a
long way in developing fancy Goldfish, while the Japanese have done
wonders with the pond fish Koi, and further developing their own
strains of Goldfish My train of thought on the topic of finnage and
color patterns was intended towards tropical fish rather rather than
cold water species, although I neglected to expressly state that, but
the Asian hobbyist have been into this for hundreds of years with
keeping them as pets as far back as the Sung Dynasty (late 10th
century), even referring to them as far back as 750 B.C. and cannot
be overlooked in the whole scheme of things.

While Goldfish were mainly bred to be viewed from the side, as in an
aquarium, especially those with long flowing finnage such as the
Japanese Fringetail (Veiltail) of which Franklin Barrett's famous
show-stopper comes to mind, there are other varieties which
additionally need to be top-viewed to be appreciated such as types of
Swallowtails and Broadtails; doubletailed varieties in which the
symmetry (unlike Koi) of color pattern and finnage can best be seen.

Yes, although there are some who prefer only a wild type of fish, I
too can appreciate veiltail finnage on some fish. Black Angels are
one of the most popular and sought after aquarium fish, when they can
be found. Along with the wild type, I happen to like a good Koi
Angel strain, far removed from its original appearance.

While line breeding is necessary to help maintain those
characteristics you want in a strain, you need to avoid to much
inbreeding. A parallel line of two similar (cousins) should be
maintained and used for crossing after no more than 5 generations.
To inbreed the same line (brothers & sisters) for more than that is
asking for trouble, and then too, wild stock should be introduced to
yours periodically to maintain the vigor. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I have changed the topic, since we are pretty much off the danios
now,
> though I am sure we can swing back that way and bore a couple of
hundred
> people more <g>. I think that now we are more on a topic that more
> people can relate to and would have opinions to toss around here.
>
> I suppose we could look back quite a ways, and find the Orientals
being
> the first to breed fish for bodily abnormalities and color patterns.
> Think goldfish and koi. Koi were bred so the colors would mostly be
on
> the top of the body so that one could see them as they were viewed
from
> above, since they were in ponds. Goldfish were bred so they could be
> viewed from the side in a tank setting.
>
> Since then man has had a hand in developing many strains of many
> different fish. We have already mentioned some, the betta, the
guppy,
> the angel fish, the discus, the dwarf gourami. There are many more.
Back
> in the day, we saw little of this breeding for various traits,
except in
> a very few fish--bettas, guppies and the aforementioned members of
the
> carp family. New varieties were few and far between. Now, it seems
we
> see at lest a couple of new varieties each year.
>
> Don't get me wrong. I'm not against varieties of fish. For instance,
> going back to the angels, a black veil tail is a nice looking fish.
> However, I do not consider a long finned zebra fish (oh no! a
danio!) as
> a good fish. A zebra is a fish designed, by evolution, to be a fast
> moving fish. The long fins just get in the way. The angel I
mentioned,
> on the other hand, does nothing to alter the design of the fish, but
> spreads the color black through the whole body rather than just in
some
> vertical stripes. The veil factor makes the fin, if anything, a bit
more
> elegant. True, it would probably pale when placed against a full
grown
> scalare, since the fish tends to be smaller than a full
grown "normal"
> angel.
>
> It is true that many varieties do not live up to the size of a fish
that
> is "natural", i.e., a fish that has not been bred to maintain or
develop
> a certain trait or traits. This is one of the downfalls of
establishing
> a trait. There is a lot of line breeding. Breeding of brother and
> sister, father and daughter, son and mother. This will concentrate
the
> genes you are after, but it also has a side effect of concentrating
the
> genes you do not want. Highly developed traits will also show fish
with
> a lot of undesired traits. The fish will be weaker, have less
resistance
> to water conditions and disease, and so on and so forth.
>
> Well, I'll stop for now, and I'm sure you and others will have
comments
> to be added to what I have written so far, as well as some taking
some
> pot shots. I'll expand on this topic further tomorrow or later in
the
> week. I've got a lot of mail to plow through now, and I'd like to at
> least keep almost on top of it <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 7:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
>
> Steve, Appears as if I've gotten your adrenaline going, as you now
> have mine. A lively and spirited (and harmonious) discussion is
> always to my liking, on aquatic subjects, which has now gotten me
> started. We (meaning the aquarium trade players as a whole) could
> never begin to attempt to copy the beauty of nature or of any of
the
> wild forms of our many aquarium species. The sports of long fins
or
> albinism will always be promoted though as long as they keep
> appearing in our tanks, as they have been from the beginnings of
our
> hobby (witness the Betta). Then too, as we know, the development
of
> both the Brick and the Blood Red Swordtail and various Platy color
> varieties back in the '30's proved popular with the hobbyists as
> vivid colors are sought after, and I do even need to go into the
> popularity of the present development of the Guppy.
>
> But, just as it seems you're pointing out, this has gotten way out
of
> proportion as with the myriad of Discus strains too numerous for me
> to count, with new ones being produced all the time. A main
problem,
> and sad part, is that many of these fish are being produced and
> CONTROLLED by a small faction of breeders in an attempt to line
their
> own pockets, who are not even in this country. How well I remember
> Colisia lalia; I first started breeding this fish as a teenager in
> 1953. As you brought out, now you can't even find a female if you
> wanted to breed them (and if you could find a normal, wild colored
> male); the females are intentionally being withheld in these
> shipments. This goes as well for many of the various Australian
and
> New Guinea species of Rainbowfish (all males and no females), if
you
> can find any which have not been interbred. These Asian breeders
are
> getting rich at the expense of the average hobbyist in this country
> who no longer has the option to breed many of these species.
>
> In this whole picture, this serves only to diminish the hobby in
this
> country (and around the world) while quick short-term profits are
> being made, with the long term consequences that there may not be
as
> many people in the hobby some years down the road resulting in part
> from their being curtailed in their endeavors. Far too much short
> sightedness here -- while many asinine laws are being passed here
on
> our tropical fish, this disdainful and damaging practice should be
> looked into and boycotted for the good of the hobby.
>
> Do I remember the Tarzoo thread on AHHS? -- Yes indeed, although I
> didn't know we could mention another group. It was partly with
this
> in mind (especially the replies made by our friend Bobby E.) that I
> brought up the taxonomy of Angelfish. I too remember those
> magnificent 6" to 8" long Angels with a height of from 10" to 12" --

> and were NOT talking about Altums here -- I had them when I was a
> kid and remember them well; this was in the very early '50's.
> Today's Angels do not even begin to approach this size (and I'm
> including my own here as well). By the time I began seriously
> breeding Angels in the mid '60's, these Angels were not to be found
> for the most part, and are certainly not in the hobby today; one
more
> reason why I believe today's fish is P. eimekei (a somewhat smaller
> member of this Genus) or a cross between it and P. scalare, rather
> than the true P. scalare which was always a much larger fish.
While
> this is certainly no positive proof, I get more convinced when I
look
> back on the original taxonomical works of the early describers and
> wonder why today's name change came about, with this much evidence.
>
> Certainly the Angel plague of the 1980's did not help matters, but
it
> was well before this time that the species' size began
> deteriorating. Luckily, for those who did not get affected by that
> dreaded virus that stock remained intact, but is still not the same
> as those hugh early Scalares. Even the wild stock I use from Peru
to
> keep the blood strong is still not the same fish as what was
> originally imported. As for the Plague, I still think its coming
in
> from Asia, even if on a scaled (no pun intended) down proportion
and
> I wonder about the Florida farms as well, since their stock is
> notorious for not holding up after shipping. Well, maybe we'll
soon
> see flourescent Angels in the future, who knows(?).
>
> Getting back to Danios, hmm -- since these species can easily be
> crossed, how about some long-finned flourescent glo-lite Giant
Danios
> (LOL). Ray
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21198 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: ICK, Please help....
All,

I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
please tell me how much salt to add and how many
times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
eating well although the Betta is not as active.
Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)

Thanks,
Traci

PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21199 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp. salt per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.

Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that is what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At this temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.

If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water you have removed.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: NHSNOLA@...
Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....

All,

I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
please tell me how much salt to add and how many
times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
eating well although the Betta is not as active.
Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)

Thanks,
Traci

PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21200 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Hi Traci,

You describe the Betta as covered in powder. Just so we're sure, does it
look like he's sprinkled with salt or is it more powdery? Is it white or
yellowish colored? Before starting a treatment, it's always best to be
certain of the disease/illness so that we do not make things worse. Look
over the pictures of Ich and other diseases on this site to be certain
(Right below Ich, you will see the disease, Velvet, which your description
also fits):

http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html or mirror site
http://www.2cah.com/pandora/Disease.html

My previous understanding is that Cory's are not very tolerant of salt,
however I did read the FAQ on CorysRUs.com, which strongly contradicts much
of what I've read over the years. Here is their FAQ about Salt (I am not
impressed with their typos when they are trying to say everyone else is
wrong... i.e., "corydporas", "irradiate"):

Q:
Can corydoras tolerate salt ?

A:
Let me dispel the myth about corydporas and salt. It is total rubbish!
Whoever started the old wives tale about Corydoras and salt, is talking
garbage. The only Catfish that do not like it, or have a reaction to it, are
the "naked" ones and not all of these react badly to salt either. Salt is a
very good treatment to irradiate many parasites, but it needs to be at the
right strength (5oz per gallon). You can also add 3/4 of a teaspoon per
gallon, to the tank water and it will do them no harm what so ever.

If it is Ich, then this article has some of the best and easiest
instructions. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Traci Swatek-Rice [mailto:t-swatek@...]
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 10:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: NHSNOLA@...
Subject: ICK, Please help....

All,

I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I assume it's Ick. He's
covered in a white powdery looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
and high temp. I don't remember how much salt though. I did a 25% PWC last
night and added in
3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you please tell me how much
salt to add and how many times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
eating well although the Betta is not as active.
Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating the new ones? (I hope
not, Sun needs help)

Thanks,
Traci

PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not adversely affected by salt.
The site is Corysrus.


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21201 From: joe t Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
I have to agree with NSHNOLA. That is way too much fish for a 10G tank. Gold fish are naturally big fish, and they expel a lot of excretions. Even with the best filter system you can get, don't forget the filter is just catching the waste and holding it. The water, unless you are doing a lot of water changes, is still deteriorating. And let's be fair to the fish. They have to have room to swim. It is very important for them to have a good "run" to help force the water throw their gills.

Also, don't beat yourself up, either. These are living creatures. Just like every other living creature, they are all different. Maybe it's just the comet's time to go.

joe t


---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21202 From: armitaget Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Thanks for the info and I do appreciate it. I lost my fish last night
after it lingered for two days. I did everything I/ and the local pet
store people could think of including the codliver solution and though
responding well she finally just keeled over for good. It may sound
strange but I am just SO SAD to lose her. I think I saw her gulp one
of the plecos algae dics and I think it might have affected her
internally as she acted like it was stuck in there at first??? I dont
know.

I plan to get a bigger tank. Bear in mind the comet was originally a
feeder fish in a tank with three hundred others, destined to be eaten
by someone's pet snake and have no life at all. At least it led a
happy vigorous 8 yr long life with me. I have cool photos that show
her personality and healthiness.

The black moor would benefit from a bigger tank and the Pleco which I
adore thus far (unless he attacks my Moor)may just get a tank of his
own someday - they are so beautiful I would really love to see it get
enormous. The one at a local petshop in a 20 (at most) gal tank full
of other fish in with it is about 15 inches long and huge!

One last thing - I had a major power outage recently and used a
generator (the only power we had) to keep the fish tank at a
reasonable temp for the pleco. they all did well.
thanks,
Terri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21203 From: Terri Armitage Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Thanks for being kind. Btw I just got a 20 gal tank:-)
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <jett07002@...>
wrote:
> I have to agree with NSHNOLA. That is way too much
fish for a 10G tank. Gold fish are naturally big
fish, and they expel a lot of excretions. Even with
the best filter system you can get, don't forget the
filter is just catching the waste and holding it. The
water, unless you are doing a lot of water changes, is
still deteriorating. And let's be fair to the fish.
They have to have room to swim. It is very important
for them to have a good "run" to help force the water
throw their gills.
>
> Also, don't beat yourself up, either. These are
living creatures. Just like every other living
creature, they are all different. Maybe it's just
the comet's time to go.
>
> joe t
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21204 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Hi my fantail used to do that, just give him so bloodworms could be
stomach problems. He should be ok in a few days.

You could try castrol oil drops in his mouth (need to be careful) this
has worked for other fish keepers.

Hope your comet will be OK.

Denise
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21205 From: goldfish_lover28f Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: 7+yr old comet floating on side for two days
Sorry just read your message, sorry to hear the sad news.

I lost a comet aswell a few years a go. Really sad.

Denise.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "goldfish_lover28f"
<goldfish_lover28f@...> wrote:
>
> Hi my fantail used to do that, just give him so bloodworms could be
> stomach problems. He should be ok in a few days.
>
> You could try castrol oil drops in his mouth (need to be careful)
this
> has worked for other fish keepers.
>
> Hope your comet will be OK.
>
> Denise
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21206 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Re: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
I was hoping to get some feedback before writing the next piece in this
thread, but it appears that the weather must be really nice in other
parts of the country, and everyone was running around outside, visiting
fish stores and other such activities. I have a catalog here on which I
wan to make some comments on the fish offered to the general public.

If you read my last piece, presented below, you will note that I did
make some comments on bettas and their form. Looking at this catalog
(Doctors Foster and Smith, probably vintage last September/October from
its placement in the stack of to be read publications), they offer live
fish. They show 4 pictures of bettas 3 of which don't even come close to
the standards I mentioned earlier. The female comes closer than any of
the males, but she is showing a fright pattern. If these are true
examples of the bettas they offer, none would find a home here. Once you
have seen a good betta, you probably would not want to settle for these
fish as well.

Not a freak fish, but definitely a mislabeled fish, found on the same
page is the killifish the call the Magnificus. Claimed to be from South
Africa, the fish pictured is not a magnificus (which I would take to be
_Simpsonichthys magnificus_ from Brazil). I do not recognize the fish
off hand, but it seem to be an Aphyosemion type in the photo. Who knows
what you will get for the amount of money they are asking for it. I
would prefer not to throw my money away like that, and killi aficionados
are rather picky about properly identifying the fish they have, right
down to the locality the strain comes from.

The fish that really caught my eye is on the next page and identified as
a golden white cloud. To my eye, they have taken all the beauty away
from the fish in this variety. Actually, many people who keep the
natural variety of white cloud mountain fish, have never seen them truly
show their colors, because they are kept at temperatures that are too
high from them. They come from temperate waters, and temperatures in the
mid 60's seem to do them the most justice. The red and white striping
roughly following the lateral line are gone completely, and the red
color in the fins seems to be missing also. To me, this is a complete
corruption of the fish.

Also on that page there is a fish that almost looks like a true dwarf
gourami. What it is is actually one of the early variations on the
coloration of the dwarf gourami. Most of the normal coloration is there,
but there is more blue than there should be in the head area, and the
blue is much brighter than that of a naturally colored dwarf. Again, it
is my opinion that a dwarf gourami, when kept in the proper conditions
is a much more beautiful fish than any of the variations that have been
developed.

On the next page is a "gold algae eater". From the photo shown, I can
not ID this fish, but, assuredly, it is not the normal coloration for
this fish. I almost think it is a variety of the fish known as the
chinese algae eater, but cannot be sure due to the photo not showing the
parts of the fish that would help ID it sufficiently.

Then, there are the discus. A lot of these color varieties have weakened
the fish so that they are harder to keep than those who have been raised
true from the wild.

Pretty much what I am saying here is that you should know your fish
prior to purchase. Know the water they come from, know the temperature
they live in, know what they should look like, know what they eat, know
what they may not get along with, know the fish. Then make the purchase
if you can supply their needs.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

I've wanted to get back to this topic, but just plain have not had the
time to do so until now.

Some of the other fish commonly altered by man have been bettas and
guppies, though they have not been toyed with for as long as koi and
goldfish. Guppies and goldfish are rather malleable genetically. If one
were able to go to the wild and collect a number of either of these fish
and maintain them through many generations, it would be noted that some
have changes in body shape, coloration, and/or finnage. If the fish were
still in the wild, these traits would be passed along to few, if any,
future generations, unless they were changes that were beneficial to the
survival of the fish. These fish would stand out from the crowd in one
way or another, and would soon become a meal for another creature.

Albinism is a trait that is occasionally found in all populations of all
animals. Albinism is described as the absence of pigment in the body,
and is often typified by white body coloration and pink eyes. Recently
there has been some debate about the exact definition of albinism, but
we can let this one stand for our purposes.

If a fish is an albino, it does not last very long in the wild. It
simply stands out too much from the rest of the crowd and is an easy
mark for predators. It would be an extraordinary event for an albino
specimen to survive to sexual maturity to pass its genes along to future
generations. However, albinos do show every so often, and this leads to
the various albino specimens we can purchase for our tanks. Albinism is
caused by a recessive gene or genes, which are always present in a
species to one extent or another, so it is simply the luck of the draw
to have these genes show in a specimen, with no dominant genes to
counter act their effect.

I really have nothing against the breeding and distribution of these
fish.

Back to the guppies after that aside. Keeping a population of guppies
will soon show the genetic variation of a population with different
colors, different patterning, etc. Since it is unlikely that you will
have a chance to collect wild guppies, you could substitute the feeder
guppies you find in many of your LFS. You would need to keep in mind
that the fish you see there may have already been influenced by various
breeding programs and are the descendants of rejects of those programs,
but the changes you see would be similar to a wild population, though
they may be more pronounced. You may wish to experiment with your own
breeding program is you see traits you like. Guppies are quick in
growing to sexual maturity and females will generally drop broods every
28 days, so you can see results quickly. While I am partial to the
"wild" type guppy, probably mainly because my grandmother kept them, I
do not have anything against the fancy types. One of the reasons for
this is that the fancy types should meet certain standards for body
size, coloration, and fin type, formation, and size as established by
the INGA (International Fancy Guppy Association).

The betta, and when I say betta in this missive, I mean _Betta
splendens_, also have an international body that sanctions what they
should look like, the International Betta Congress (IBC). There does
appear to be some debate as to what may be a wild type betta, or whether
they even exist any more, but there are lots of other Betta species that
have been discovered, with many of these being kept by aquarists. The
IBC even has a group that monitors this and encourages the keeping of
wild Betta species other than splendens.

The original splendens were kept by peoples in the Indo-China area and
used as fighting creatures, much along the lines of cock or dog fights
that you may be somewhat familiar with. Bets were made and fortunes won
or lost based on the outcome of a fight. Naturally, the fighting
characteristics were bred for and highly prized by these peoples. I am
not clear on the origins of the fancy bettas as we know them today. We
all do see them in the LFS for sale, often in tiny bowls. Actually,
bettas are raised in separate containers as soon as they can be sexed,
if not sooner, and you may hear betta aficionados speak of "jarring" the
young bettas, and looking for more efficient ways to raise them this
way. It is a very labor intensive project to raise young bettas to a
saleable size.

While the bettas you see in the stores are OK as far as the varieties
go, none of them would do well in a betta show. If you would want to get
quality bettas, you would need to get them from a breeder of bettas so
that you can see those that are much closer to the ideal as described by
the IBC.

As with the guppies, there is a wide variety colors and a more limited
variety of finnage. To see a really good betta flare its fins is truly a
site to behold. The single fins should form a complete circle. If You
draw a line starting at the nose of the fish around the fish, enclosing
the flared fines, it should be a complete circle. Truly a magnificent
sight.

I've kept both types of bettas in the past, and I do prefer the wild
types for their habits, and the challenges they offer.

Well, this is getting too long a post, though I hope you are still
following along. If you are interested in any of the fish discussed so
far, there are web sites for the national and international
organizations devoted to these fish that are easily accessible on the
web for your further research into these types of fish. I'd suggest you
go to these sites first, rather than going t the sites of individuals,
and once you have a good understanding of the information given by the
organization sites, then go off to the individual sites. You'll have
better criteria to use to separate the wheat from the chaff.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios

Steve, Yes indfeed! First the Koreans and then the Chinese came a
long way in developing fancy Goldfish, while the Japanese have done
wonders with the pond fish Koi, and further developing their own
strains of Goldfish My train of thought on the topic of finnage and
color patterns was intended towards tropical fish rather rather than
cold water species, although I neglected to expressly state that, but
the Asian hobbyist have been into this for hundreds of years with
keeping them as pets as far back as the Sung Dynasty (late 10th
century), even referring to them as far back as 750 B.C. and cannot
be overlooked in the whole scheme of things.

While Goldfish were mainly bred to be viewed from the side, as in an
aquarium, especially those with long flowing finnage such as the
Japanese Fringetail (Veiltail) of which Franklin Barrett's famous
show-stopper comes to mind, there are other varieties which
additionally need to be top-viewed to be appreciated such as types of
Swallowtails and Broadtails; doubletailed varieties in which the
symmetry (unlike Koi) of color pattern and finnage can best be seen.

Yes, although there are some who prefer only a wild type of fish, I
too can appreciate veiltail finnage on some fish. Black Angels are
one of the most popular and sought after aquarium fish, when they can
be found. Along with the wild type, I happen to like a good Koi
Angel strain, far removed from its original appearance.

While line breeding is necessary to help maintain those
characteristics you want in a strain, you need to avoid to much
inbreeding. A parallel line of two similar (cousins) should be
maintained and used for crossing after no more than 5 generations.
To inbreed the same line (brothers & sisters) for more than that is
asking for trouble, and then too, wild stock should be introduced to
yours periodically to maintain the vigor. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I have changed the topic, since we are pretty much off the danios
now,
> though I am sure we can swing back that way and bore a couple of
hundred
> people more <g>. I think that now we are more on a topic that more
> people can relate to and would have opinions to toss around here.
>
> I suppose we could look back quite a ways, and find the Orientals
being
> the first to breed fish for bodily abnormalities and color patterns.
> Think goldfish and koi. Koi were bred so the colors would mostly be
on
> the top of the body so that one could see them as they were viewed
from
> above, since they were in ponds. Goldfish were bred so they could be
> viewed from the side in a tank setting.
>
> Since then man has had a hand in developing many strains of many
> different fish. We have already mentioned some, the betta, the
guppy,
> the angel fish, the discus, the dwarf gourami. There are many more.
Back
> in the day, we saw little of this breeding for various traits,
except in
> a very few fish--bettas, guppies and the aforementioned members of
the
> carp family. New varieties were few and far between. Now, it seems
we
> see at lest a couple of new varieties each year.
>
> Don't get me wrong. I'm not against varieties of fish. For instance,
> going back to the angels, a black veil tail is a nice looking fish.
> However, I do not consider a long finned zebra fish (oh no! a
danio!) as
> a good fish. A zebra is a fish designed, by evolution, to be a fast
> moving fish. The long fins just get in the way. The angel I
mentioned,
> on the other hand, does nothing to alter the design of the fish, but
> spreads the color black through the whole body rather than just in
some
> vertical stripes. The veil factor makes the fin, if anything, a bit
more
> elegant. True, it would probably pale when placed against a full
grown
> scalare, since the fish tends to be smaller than a full
grown "normal"
> angel.
>
> It is true that many varieties do not live up to the size of a fish
that
> is "natural", i.e., a fish that has not been bred to maintain or
develop
> a certain trait or traits. This is one of the downfalls of
establishing
> a trait. There is a lot of line breeding. Breeding of brother and
> sister, father and daughter, son and mother. This will concentrate
the
> genes you are after, but it also has a side effect of concentrating
the
> genes you do not want. Highly developed traits will also show fish
with
> a lot of undesired traits. The fish will be weaker, have less
resistance
> to water conditions and disease, and so on and so forth.
>
> Well, I'll stop for now, and I'm sure you and others will have
comments
> to be added to what I have written so far, as well as some taking
some
> pot shots. I'll expand on this topic further tomorrow or later in
the
> week. I've got a lot of mail to plow through now, and I'd like to at
> least keep almost on top of it <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21207 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Temperature Conversion Chart
TEMPERATURE CONVERSION CHART.

50° Fahrenheit (10° C)
Californians shiver uncontrollably.
Canadians plant gardens.

35° Fahrenheit (1.6° C)
Italian Cars won't start.
Canadians drive with the windows down.

32° Fahrenheit (0 ° C)
American water freezes.
Canadian water gets thicker.

0° Fahrenheit (-17.9° C)
New York City landlords finally turn on the heat.
Canadians have the last cookout of the season.

-60° Fahrenheit (-51° C)
Mt. St. Helen's freezes.
Canadian Girl Guides sell cookies door-to-door.

-100° Fahrenheit (-73° C)
Santa Claus abandons the North Pole.
Canadians pull down their earflaps.

-173° Fahrenheit (-114° C)
Ethyl alcohol Freezes.
Canadians get frustrated when they can't thaw the keg.

-460° Fahrenheit (-273° C)
Absolute zero; all atomic motion stops.
Canadians start saying "cold, eh?"

-500° Fahrenheit (-295° C)
Hell freezes over.
The Calgary Flames win the Stanley Cup.

* * * * *

PERMISSION TO REPRINT articles from MISSING LINKS is granted
unless stated otherwise, provided: (1) the reprint is not used
for commercial purposes; and (2) the following notice appears at
the end of the article: Previously published in MISSING LINKS,
Vol. 8, No. 11, 16 March 2003 http://www.petuniapress.com

\\Steve//
Blessed are the cracked for it is they who let in the light.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21208 From: armitaget Date: 3/4/2007
Subject: Filter not working right... any ideas???
I just bought a new filter today and it is not working. I have had
this type of filter before and understand how it works and so forth.
It is a Whisper type "Top Fin" filter. It just doesn't seat right in
there and though the impeller is spinning it doesn't hold a prime of
water.
Help:-)! Will they take it back I wonder? Are there any tips for these
things?
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21209 From: Peaches Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Hello Everyone:)

My Name is Peaches and I am new here. I was new a couple of weeks ago and then my computer crashed so now I am trying to get up and running.

I am a teacher of the visually impaired and am visually impaired myself. I have many hobbies including raising doves, knitting, cooking, reading, and graphic art. i am looking forward to getting started with fish as well. I am going with a freshwater tank of 40 gallons to start with. I have looked and looked and I think I would like rainbow fish as they seem bright and I could see them well. I went to see them at the pet store and could see them well even in the small display tanks. When I told the lady I was legally blind, she was very patient with me and spent an hour showing me all the fish. She recommended a "parrot fish" Because they are "big". She said I could keep them with rainbows. Bless her heart. I think she would have found me a blue whale if she thought i could see it well. I had never heard of a parrot fish before. It was orange but she said it would turn purple later on as it was just a baby.

i am trying so hard to sort out all of the information I have been reading and hearing. I have all of these lovely lists of things I need for my new pets and I am so confused it isn't funny:)) I know I am going to ask some really silly questions but then, if I don't, how will I ever learn.

First, I read the information on getting test kits for your aquarium water. I was wondering if anyone could tell me which ones work the best or are they all about the same. Also, when you test water what do you do with the results? i mean do I add chemicals or something if I get bad readings?? I just didn't see any at the store that I could recognize.

i know I have bothered everyone enough for one post so I will send this one off and see if it gets through.

I am very glad to be here and I would appreciate any answers you could give me.

Hugs,
Peaches


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21210 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Did you try filling the reservoir with tank water? I find this needs to be
done on most HOB's (hang on backs) to get them primed. Just fill the
reservoir until it's over flowing through the waterfall. That should be
enough.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter not working right... any ideas???

I just bought a new filter today and it is not working. I have had this type
of filter before and understand how it works and so forth.
It is a Whisper type "Top Fin" filter. It just doesn't seat right in there
and though the impeller is spinning it doesn't hold a prime of water.
Help:-)! Will they take it back I wonder? Are there any tips for these
things?
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21211 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
First, dealing with the test kits... which are needed... do you have someone
who will help you with testing? The color charts are sometimes confusing to
folks with perfect vision. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit which
has the tests for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Those are the minimum
tests that a fish keeper should have. You can get this test kit for as low
as $13.49 US right now if you print out PetsMart.com online price and bring
the page to the store... they will match their online prices.

You should consider "fishless cycling" your new tank to make it safe for
your fish. Most stores do not know much about the nitrogen cycle and give
bad advice on this issue. There is also a product called Bio-Spira which
will "cycle" your tank in a day and make it safe for a moderate bioload of
new fish. It's the ONLY bacteria-in-a-bottle that I recommend. The others
are not very good, IMO, although some people report success with Hagen's
product, called Cycle.

A "parrot fish" is probably a parrot cichlid, a man-made hybrid, which you
can read more about here... http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html

DO NOT buy into all of the chemical fixes that the stores try to sell you.
The only thing you should need is a decent tap water dechlor product... if
your tap water has chlorine or chloramine added as a disinfectant. If you
use well water or other natural water as your source water, then you may not
need any kinds of water treatments. You will need to test the source water
to find out what the pH is and once you know this, you should choose fish
that are compatible with your source water pH. It's a lot easier to do
that, than to try adjusting your pH if it's too high or too low for the fish
you buy.

I have several "articles" on my blog that are designed for new fish keepers.
http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and you can read over the "A to Z of fish
keeping" which is a page full of links to other good information, including
a couple of online tutorials which will teach you much more about the basics
of fish keeping.

Feel free to ask lots of questions here too!

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:39 AM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL

Hello Everyone:)

My Name is Peaches and I am new here. I was new a couple of weeks ago and
then my computer crashed so now I am trying to get up and running.

I am a teacher of the visually impaired and am visually impaired myself. I
have many hobbies including raising doves, knitting, cooking, reading, and
graphic art. i am looking forward to getting started with fish as well. I am
going with a freshwater tank of 40 gallons to start with. I have looked and
looked and I think I would like rainbow fish as they seem bright and I could
see them well. I went to see them at the pet store and could see them well
even in the small display tanks. When I told the lady I was legally blind,
she was very patient with me and spent an hour showing me all the fish. She
recommended a "parrot fish" Because they are "big". She said I could keep
them with rainbows. Bless her heart. I think she would have found me a blue
whale if she thought i could see it well. I had never heard of a parrot fish
before. It was orange but she said it would turn purple later on as it was
just a baby.

i am trying so hard to sort out all of the information I have been reading
and hearing. I have all of these lovely lists of things I need for my new
pets and I am so confused it isn't funny:)) I know I am going to ask some
really silly questions but then, if I don't, how will I ever learn.

First, I read the information on getting test kits for your aquarium water.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me which ones work the best or are they
all about the same. Also, when you test water what do you do with the
results? i mean do I add chemicals or something if I get bad readings?? I
just didn't see any at the store that I could recognize.

i know I have bothered everyone enough for one post so I will send this one
off and see if it gets through.

I am very glad to be here and I would appreciate any answers you could give
me.

Hugs,
Peaches


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21212 From: armitaget Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Yes I did prime it with tank water. I finally turned it upside down in
the sink and shot a spray of water up inside there to try to dislodge
anything that may be stuck in there. Finally after fiddling with it -
it started working but if I move that tube at all or bump it or lift
it - it quits working again. The magnet and impeller deal seems to be
very stiff.... At least it is woring right now:-)

Thanks:-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21213 From: Patti M. Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: I got guppies! LOL!
Hi, just an update. I took all my testing numbers to the pet store and they tested my water. They gave me three male guppies, and I can add a few more fish in two weeks.

I had to take a biting mean little bugger back, and got a scardie cat (guppy). But now they are all happy together. One stays off to him self a lot, but not always. __,_.

I II love watching them! and they are actually quite beautiful, swimming.......two have semi long tails, and the black "mellow man" has long black tails etc. and white face with big black eyes! neat!

I saw your notes on guppies Steve. LOL! oh well, I do like them. I am sure I will like a lot more fish along the way.

That is it for now.

Patti M
DFW

ps. I am going to use store bought natural spring water (recommended by LPS) and once I find a 5 gallon container or two, I will switch to RO water. I will need to know what to add back, etc. then.




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21214 From: Angsuman Chatterjee Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Hello Peaches..
I no nothing about fish and all at all .
But i read this mail which is really sweet...LOL
I woudnt answer this as i donno much about this fish stuff.
But i couldnt stop myself replying this.,.
Good luck with your new pet ..
AC


On 3/5/07, Peaches <Iluvdoves@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone:)
>
> My Name is Peaches and I am new here. I was new a couple of weeks ago and
> then my computer crashed so now I am trying to get up and running.
>
> I am a teacher of the visually impaired and am visually impaired myself. I
> have many hobbies including raising doves, knitting, cooking, reading, and
> graphic art. i am looking forward to getting started with fish as well. I am
> going with a freshwater tank of 40 gallons to start with. I have looked and
> looked and I think I would like rainbow fish as they seem bright and I could
> see them well. I went to see them at the pet store and could see them well
> even in the small display tanks. When I told the lady I was legally blind,
> she was very patient with me and spent an hour showing me all the fish. She
> recommended a "parrot fish" Because they are "big". She said I could keep
> them with rainbows. Bless her heart. I think she would have found me a blue
> whale if she thought i could see it well. I had never heard of a parrot fish
> before. It was orange but she said it would turn purple later on as it was
> just a baby.
>
> i am trying so hard to sort out all of the information I have been reading
> and hearing. I have all of these lovely lists of things I need for my new
> pets and I am so confused it isn't funny:)) I know I am going to ask some
> really silly questions but then, if I don't, how will I ever learn.
>
> First, I read the information on getting test kits for your aquarium
> water. I was wondering if anyone could tell me which ones work the best or
> are they all about the same. Also, when you test water what do you do with
> the results? i mean do I add chemicals or something if I get bad readings??
> I just didn't see any at the store that I could recognize.
>
> i know I have bothered everyone enough for one post so I will send this
> one off and see if it gets through.
>
> I am very glad to be here and I would appreciate any answers you could
> give me.
>
> Hugs,
> Peaches
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>



--
Celebrate one's personhood.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21215 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Hi Steve,

Thanks for helping. I confirmed the Ick with a list of
symptons and pics that Lenny sent me. Then I changed
the water adding the new salt. I had to get a larger
heater to warm the water but it's at 81 degrees right
now. The new heaters are preset so I can't raise it
on my own. I hope this is high enough, with the salt,
to knock this out. Sun is getting more lethargic and
looks terrible. His fins are getting raggedy looking.
He is still eating though. That makes me wonder if
the ick could have came from frozen brine shrimp I fed
them? The cory isn't showing any signs of it, yet...
Thanks again!

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp. salt
> per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.
>
> Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature
> shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is
> effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that is
> what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the
> cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only
> affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the
> temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At this
> temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.
>
> If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your
> water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water
> you have removed.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: NHSNOLA@...
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>
> All,
>
> I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
> assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
> looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
> and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
> though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
> 3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
> please tell me how much salt to add and how many
> times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
> eating well although the Betta is not as active.
> Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
> the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
> adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21216 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Peaches,

Since you say you are visually impaired yourself, the normal, run of the
mill test kits may not be a good choice for you. The normal test kits
rely on one being able to discern fine gradients of color to get an
accurate reading, and your sight may preclude you from discriminating
these gradients of color--it troubles normally sighted people enough as
it is. Though they need more care, and are definitely more expensive
than test kits, electronic meters may be the way to go for you, so long
as you can read numbers on an LCD screen or meter OK. The meters require
frequent calibration to give a good reading and the electrode, the part
that does the collection of data for a measurement needs to be cleaned
and replaced on a regular basis, yet another expense.

If you do go for test kits instead, look for one that uses pillows of
reagents. These pillows are pre-measured dry reagents that just need to
be added t the water. AquaTru kits have the pillows, and others used to
also. Consult with your local fish emporium to see what they can do for
you. Also ensure that the reagents have not expired. There should be an
expiration date on the packaging.

What you do when you get a reading that is out of range depends on what
you are testing for and at what stage your aquarium is. There is no
blanket answer. You should be aware of your pH and your hardness prior
to selecting fish, and choose only fish that come from waters in that
range. In the end, you will have happier, healthier fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 2:39 AM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL

Hello Everyone:)

My Name is Peaches and I am new here. I was new a couple of weeks ago
and then my computer crashed so now I am trying to get up and running.

I am a teacher of the visually impaired and am visually impaired myself.
I have many hobbies including raising doves, knitting, cooking, reading,
and graphic art. i am looking forward to getting started with fish as
well. I am going with a freshwater tank of 40 gallons to start with. I
have looked and looked and I think I would like rainbow fish as they
seem bright and I could see them well. I went to see them at the pet
store and could see them well even in the small display tanks. When I
told the lady I was legally blind, she was very patient with me and
spent an hour showing me all the fish. She recommended a "parrot fish"
Because they are "big". She said I could keep them with rainbows. Bless
her heart. I think she would have found me a blue whale if she thought i
could see it well. I had never heard of a parrot fish before. It was
orange but she said it would turn purple later on as it was just a baby.


i am trying so hard to sort out all of the information I have been
reading and hearing. I have all of these lovely lists of things I need
for my new pets and I am so confused it isn't funny:)) I know I am going
to ask some really silly questions but then, if I don't, how will I ever
learn.

First, I read the information on getting test kits for your aquarium
water. I was wondering if anyone could tell me which ones work the best
or are they all about the same. Also, when you test water what do you do
with the results? i mean do I add chemicals or something if I get bad
readings?? I just didn't see any at the store that I could recognize.

i know I have bothered everyone enough for one post so I will send this
one off and see if it gets through.

I am very glad to be here and I would appreciate any answers you could
give me.

Hugs,
Peaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21217 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
How old is your betta? With perfect conditions they only live 3-4 years. He may be nearing the end of his lifespan, and may be harder to bring around than a younger fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....

Hi Steve,

Thanks for helping. I confirmed the Ick with a list of
symptons and pics that Lenny sent me. Then I changed
the water adding the new salt. I had to get a larger
heater to warm the water but it's at 81 degrees right
now. The new heaters are preset so I can't raise it
on my own. I hope this is high enough, with the salt,
to knock this out. Sun is getting more lethargic and
looks terrible. His fins are getting raggedy looking.
He is still eating though. That makes me wonder if
the ick could have came from frozen brine shrimp I fed
them? The cory isn't showing any signs of it, yet...
Thanks again!

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp. salt
> per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.
>
> Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature
> shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is
> effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that is
> what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the
> cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only
> affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the
> temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At this
> temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.
>
> If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your
> water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water
> you have removed.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: NHSNOLA@...
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>
> All,
>
> I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
> assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
> looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
> and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
> though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
> 3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
> please tell me how much salt to add and how many
> times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
> eating well although the Betta is not as active.
> Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
> the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
> adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21218 From: Kevin Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Is my tank going to break?!
The silacone on my tank has been getting cloudier and cloudier all year. Is that normal, or
does it mean the silicone is stressed and will give out eventually? I'm pretty sure my Stand is
NOT 100% flat, so there could be some extra pressure on the joints.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21219 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
HI Kevin,

I cannot comment on the silicone, but if the surface of your stand is not flat(uneven high and low points) you can go to a hardware store(Home depot, Lowes, Ace etc.) and buy a sheet of foam insulation. They make the sheets in 4 foot by 8 foot sheets. Cut the foam to the dimension of the bottom of the tank or to the size of the stand, whichever is larger. Place the foam on the stand and slowly fill the tank back up to normal. This should deal with the uneven surface your tank is on.

They make different thicknesses of the foam sheet insulation. 3/4 inch would probably be the minimum I would use.

Right now in my fishroom(garage) I have small pallet racks and I use foam insulation sheeting underneath most of my tanks. I have one spot where a post sticks up at least a third of an inch above level; and the styrofoam just cruches down over the post. That piece happens to be inch and a half though.
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kevin@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 8:09 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Is my tank going to break?!


The silacone on my tank has been getting cloudier and cloudier all year. Is that normal, or
does it mean the silicone is stressed and will give out eventually? I'm pretty sure my Stand is
NOT 100% flat, so there could be some extra pressure on the joints.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kevin



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21220 From: ijustwannalearn83 Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Starting my first ever salt water tank
I am starting my first ever salt water tank and was woundering what
are some good steps to start. I have a 30 gallon tank. I already have
it filled and have no inverts or fish in it at the moment. I read that
you can put corol and other things (inverts and such)in to clean the
water with little hasstle and only need to keep up the salinity. Any
info would be a great help. Im worried with it being my first Salt
tank on how to go about it. Thank you for your time
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21221 From: Peaches Date: 3/5/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL
Hello Again:)

I just wanted to thank you for your advice on my future pets. i learned a
lot by visiting the sites you sent me and I appreciate any and all help you
could give me. I think you were right about the "Parrot fish". I am not
sure i want one or more of them as they get quite big and the tank needed
would be a little over budget for me. I still love the rainbows though and
will await my newly ordered master test kit to see if the PH is correct for
them. I sure hope so. I could see them so well and they don't get over
four inches at most. I am going to research fishless cycling more and I
thin that is a good way to go for me as I would hate to loose anyone because
of me. I found the Bio Spira and can get it nexe month as well.

I know I will be asking loads more questions and I surely do appreciate
knowing there are people out there who will try to help me. I was feeling
sort of lost in the woods and afraid. My doves also send up a big
ThankCOOOOOOOOO for all your helpful information:)

Hugs,
Peaches
----- Original Message -----
From: "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 11:07 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL


First, dealing with the test kits... which are needed... do you have someone
who will help you with testing? The color charts are sometimes confusing to
folks with perfect vision. I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit which
has the tests for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH. Those are the minimum
tests that a fish keeper should have. You can get this test kit for as low
as $13.49 US right now if you print out PetsMart.com online price and bring
the page to the store... they will match their online prices.

You should consider "fishless cycling" your new tank to make it safe for
your fish. Most stores do not know much about the nitrogen cycle and give
bad advice on this issue. There is also a product called Bio-Spira which
will "cycle" your tank in a day and make it safe for a moderate bioload of
new fish. It's the ONLY bacteria-in-a-bottle that I recommend. The others
are not very good, IMO, although some people report success with Hagen's
product, called Cycle.

A "parrot fish" is probably a parrot cichlid, a man-made hybrid, which you
can read more about here... http://cichlidresearch.com/parrot.html

DO NOT buy into all of the chemical fixes that the stores try to sell you.
The only thing you should need is a decent tap water dechlor product... if
your tap water has chlorine or chloramine added as a disinfectant. If you
use well water or other natural water as your source water, then you may not
need any kinds of water treatments. You will need to test the source water
to find out what the pH is and once you know this, you should choose fish
that are compatible with your source water pH. It's a lot easier to do
that, than to try adjusting your pH if it's too high or too low for the fish
you buy.

I have several "articles" on my blog that are designed for new fish keepers.
http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and you can read over the "A to Z of fish
keeping" which is a page full of links to other good information, including
a couple of online tutorials which will teach you much more about the basics
of fish keeping.

Feel free to ask lots of questions here too!

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 1:39 AM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie Here:) intro and Questions:) LOL

Hello Everyone:)

My Name is Peaches and I am new here. I was new a couple of weeks ago and
then my computer crashed so now I am trying to get up and running.

I am a teacher of the visually impaired and am visually impaired myself. I
have many hobbies including raising doves, knitting, cooking, reading, and
graphic art. i am looking forward to getting started with fish as well. I am
going with a freshwater tank of 40 gallons to start with. I have looked and
looked and I think I would like rainbow fish as they seem bright and I could
see them well. I went to see them at the pet store and could see them well
even in the small display tanks. When I told the lady I was legally blind,
she was very patient with me and spent an hour showing me all the fish. She
recommended a "parrot fish" Because they are "big". She said I could keep
them with rainbows. Bless her heart. I think she would have found me a blue
whale if she thought i could see it well. I had never heard of a parrot fish
before. It was orange but she said it would turn purple later on as it was
just a baby.

i am trying so hard to sort out all of the information I have been reading
and hearing. I have all of these lovely lists of things I need for my new
pets and I am so confused it isn't funny:)) I know I am going to ask some
really silly questions but then, if I don't, how will I ever learn.

First, I read the information on getting test kits for your aquarium water.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me which ones work the best or are they
all about the same. Also, when you test water what do you do with the
results? i mean do I add chemicals or something if I get bad readings?? I
just didn't see any at the store that I could recognize.

i know I have bothered everyone enough for one post so I will send this one
off and see if it gets through.

I am very glad to be here and I would appreciate any answers you could give
me.

Hugs,
Peaches


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21222 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
What size tank is it? Is the stand an aquarium stand or regular furniture?
Or something else... like a home-made stand?

Have you used any medications in the tank? Some will discolor the silicone.

I do believe that silicone does become cloudier over time but I haven't
actually paid much attention to it on my tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Is my tank going to break?!

The silacone on my tank has been getting cloudier and cloudier all year. Is
that normal, or does it mean the silicone is stressed and will give out
eventually? I'm pretty sure my Stand is NOT 100% flat, so there could be
some extra pressure on the joints.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21223 From: Kevin Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
It's a 55 gallon-about a year and a half old.
It's on a "well" built home made tank stand.
I say "well" because I made the mistake of belt sanding the top, and as a result there is
the slightest dip on one corner of that tank (wich I tried to fill with some carboard)
Thanks for the info!



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What size tank is it? Is the stand an aquarium stand or regular furniture?
> Or something else... like a home-made stand?
>
> Have you used any medications in the tank? Some will discolor the silicone.
>
> I do believe that silicone does become cloudier over time but I haven't
> actually paid much attention to it on my tanks.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Kevin
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is my tank going to break?!
>
> The silacone on my tank has been getting cloudier and cloudier all year. Is
> that normal, or does it mean the silicone is stressed and will give out
> eventually? I'm pretty sure my Stand is NOT 100% flat, so there could be
> some extra pressure on the joints.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Kevin
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21224 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Some new updates to the photography museum...
Here are some new fish photos from the Monteray Aquarium:
http://tinyurl.com/2esz37 Enjoy! Arthur
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21225 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Is my tank going to break?!
Since it is a larger sized tank, you may want to try and level the stand
itself, if it is leaning away from wall, etc. That's why I asked what size
it was. On smaller tanks, 10G, 20G, etc., they are less susceptible to
stress fractures or bursting but I have read horror stories on the larger
tanks.

Maybe, on your next PWC, you could pump out a little more.. maybe to 50% and
then "level" the tank and tank stand using shims under the base of the
stand. If it's only that one corner, I would use shims instead of just
cardboard.

You can get plastic aggregate shims from most home or hardware stores and
then shove it under that corner.. maybe tap it once or twice with a hammer,
then break off any excess sticking out. Better to be safe than sorry.

When I built my stand for my 65G, I ended up with a similar "low corner"...
about 1/8" or less lower, so I used a shim. A series of pics starting
here... http://pets.webshots.com/photo/1402615495070613611qcYRHT

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 6:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Is my tank going to break?!

It's a 55 gallon-about a year and a half old.
It's on a "well" built home made tank stand.
I say "well" because I made the mistake of belt sanding the top, and as a
result there is the slightest dip on one corner of that tank (wich I tried
to fill with some carboard) Thanks for the info!



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What size tank is it? Is the stand an aquarium stand or regular
furniture?
> Or something else... like a home-made stand?
>
> Have you used any medications in the tank? Some will discolor the
silicone.
>
> I do believe that silicone does become cloudier over time but I haven't
> actually paid much attention to it on my tanks.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Kevin
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 10:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is my tank going to break?!
>
> The silacone on my tank has been getting cloudier and cloudier all year.
Is
> that normal, or does it mean the silicone is stressed and will give out
> eventually? I'm pretty sure my Stand is NOT 100% flat, so there could be
> some extra pressure on the joints.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks,
> Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21226 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Starting my first ever salt water tank
Research research research.

What kinds of inverts are you planning on keeping? The equipment you buy will be dictated by what you intend to keep. Corals and other inverts demand pristine water qualtiy, high intensity lighting, and (again depending on what you intend to keep) possible dosing of trace elements.

What kind of filtration are you using? How many lbs of live rock and sand do you have in the tank currently? Have you begun testing the water? Which test kits are you using?

A couple sites I'd recommend looking at:

http://www.nano-reef.com
http://www.reefcentral.com

A couple of books I'd recommend getting:

The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide by Michael S. Paletta
The Conscientious Marine Aquarist: A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists

Congratulations on jumping into an extremely exciting hobby!

Sean


----- Original Message -----
From: ijustwannalearn83
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 11:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Starting my first ever salt water tank


I am starting my first ever salt water tank and was woundering what
are some good steps to start. I have a 30 gallon tank. I already have
it filled and have no inverts or fish in it at the moment. I read that
you can put corol and other things (inverts and such)in to clean the
water with little hasstle and only need to keep up the salinity. Any
info would be a great help. Im worried with it being my first Salt
tank on how to go about it. Thank you for your time





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21227 From: joe t Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
I have bought quite a few Whisper filters through time and I pretty much never had a problem with them.

Are you sure you got a new filter or a used one? Some of the LFSs -- and even the bigger stores-- take filters back on good faith of the person saying they changed their minds or want a bigger/smaller one. Whatever. The stores also take them back because they don't want to lose a good customer. (It's not worth the price of the filter to lose a good customer.)

Here's the big BUT. They should either not sell that filter or, at least, take it out of the box and give a good look to see if it's damaged, or "dirty" from being used. If so, they should be honest and sell it at a reduced price as being used. Sadly, through ignorance or just not caring, they often do not do this.

There is nothing wrong with buying a "used" anything as long as it works right. Enough said on that. Check the inside of the well tube --- where the magnet goes------and make sure it's clean. Then try to clean the magnet with an eraser. Yep, a regular pencil eraser will do. Sometimes the magnet gets a residue on it and it messes up the magnetic hold the motor should have on it to spin it. Simply said, it slips, and the impeller doesn't work properly.

If you bought it new I would bring it back to the store. If not, you might want to try what I described above.

joe t


---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21228 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Fish in the News
Check this out!



http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/17424021/from/ET/

.


<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=8495157/grpspId=1705042752/msgId
=21227/stime=1173219263/nc1=4438957/nc2=4025302/nc3=3>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21229 From: armitaget Date: 3/6/2007
Subject: Re: Filter not working right... any ideas???
Actually, I returned it and had the guy working there test the new one
for me to make sure it worked. He also looked at the one I was
returning and said something down in there was bent... so the new one
works like it is supposed to (yay) and I was happy they didnt hassle
me:-) I cleaned out the filter really good before putting it in my
tank and so far so good:-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21230 From: snerticus Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Fish on the homepage?
What are the fish on the homepage? They're beautiful! They look like
some sort of danio to me...

Snert

(taxonomic names if you could please)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21231 From: snerticus Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
LOL .... never mind! I found the fish in the photo section - it's a
Galaxy Rasbora. Further Googling revealed some more info:

"Microrasbora sp 'Galaxy' has been officially described and placed in a
new genus.Tyson Roberts today described the new species as Celestichthys
margaritatus in a paper in the Raffles Bulletin of Zoology. He has also
given the fish the new common name of Celestial pearl danio. Roberts
says that the new species is a member of the cyprinid subfamily
Danioninae and is most closely related to two danionins from Inle Lake
in Myanmar, Microrasbora rubescens and "Microrasbora" erythromicron."

The link to the site is found HERE
<http://www.strangeark.com/blog/2007/02/galaxy-rasbora-placed-in-new-gen\
us.html> .

Interesting species...

Snert



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21232 From: joe t Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
Thanks for the "heads up" on this beauty. I have never seen it before. Don't think they have them around my way. Not yet anyway.

All the material I read gave a lot about their environment except the water. Does anyone have any idea of what kind of water they have in the Salween basin? For one thing, I think its probably on the acid side, but I may be wrong. I'm not at all acquainted with it except to know the Salween is a river flowing from SW China through E Burma to the bay of Bengal. That's a big area, and exactly where these fish are located would dictate their likes in pH, etc. The plants from the habitat Roberts describes, Elodea and Anacharis, are usually grown best in soft water in the low 70's (sometimes cooler). Does anyone know for sure?

joe t


---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21233 From: dansant5 Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: lighting - warm color
Hi,

I'm new to the list but not to the hobby. I'm getting back into it
after giving away most of my stuff when I moved several years ago.

On planted tanks with lower light varieties of plants I used to use a
daylight bulb & a color-enhancing bulb. I liked the color enhancing
from the Aquari-Lux bulb, & coupled with the daylight bulb, clay in
the substrate, & some Flourish, the plants do fairly well; enough to
keep me happy.

Lighting has obviously changed in 10 years, and I don't want to waste
money checking out new bulbs, so I was hoping to tap into someone's
experience here. If anyone remembers the warm color that the Aquari-
Lux bulb gave to the tank, do they still give the same color
rendition? If not, could you recommend a bulb that gives those warm
colors? Please keep in mind that this lighting is for times when I
just want to sit & look at the tank with just this one light on, not
necessarily what's best for the plants, although if both can be
achieved at the same time, all the better.

Thanks for any input,
Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21234 From: Kevin Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: lighting - warm color
Dan,
Have you ever tried Yamato Green? I started using it a couple months
ago-blows Flourish out of the water! You have to get it from their
website though.(yamatogreen.com)
Kevin


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dansant5" <dansant3@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm new to the list but not to the hobby. I'm getting back into it
> after giving away most of my stuff when I moved several years ago.
>
> On planted tanks with lower light varieties of plants I used to use a
> daylight bulb & a color-enhancing bulb. I liked the color enhancing
> from the Aquari-Lux bulb, & coupled with the daylight bulb, clay in
> the substrate, & some Flourish, the plants do fairly well; enough to
> keep me happy.
>
> Lighting has obviously changed in 10 years, and I don't want to waste
> money checking out new bulbs, so I was hoping to tap into someone's
> experience here. If anyone remembers the warm color that the Aquari-
> Lux bulb gave to the tank, do they still give the same color
> rendition? If not, could you recommend a bulb that gives those warm
> colors? Please keep in mind that this lighting is for times when I
> just want to sit & look at the tank with just this one light on, not
> necessarily what's best for the plants, although if both can be
> achieved at the same time, all the better.
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Dan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21235 From: Jessica Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
I live in Virginia Beach and I have a 55gal saltwater tank with 2 true
percula clown fish, 1 volital Lionfish and 1 large Hermite Crab. I
did not know that the lionfish ate other fish, so I know my clowns
won't survive too much longer if I don't remove them into another
tank. I do have a question already though. My lionfish won't switch
to frozen food. I've been feedinghim feeder guppies for about 2
months now and every attempt to feed him krill is unsuccessful. I
have another tank that we were going to use for the clowns when the
time comes, but if he doesn't switch to frozen in time then all is
lost. I currently have the feeders in the other tank. Do you have
any suggestions?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21236 From: j.langrish Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Contents of marine tank avaliable
Hi all,

I am in Lancashire, UK. I have moved house and unfortunately can no
longer accomidate my marine tank. It is in the conservatory at the
moment but it will soon get to hot and kill everything. I have about 20
kilo of live rock, hermit crabs, Corals (mushrooms, sea fans, star
polups) and some marine algae naturally occuring on the rock and 5 fish

fuzzy lion fish
blue cheeked gobie
yellow tang
yellow tailed damsel
royal gramma

Anyone interested please e-mail me

Thanks

Jason
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21237 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Salt and cycling tank
Will adding salt hurt the cycling process?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21238 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Best way to clean???
What is the best way to clean my old tank and everything that was in it?
There is some mineral build up from water spray on the upper parts
where the filter sat - also I need to clean the old submersible
heater.... Any ideas????
The pet store said bleach would be ok as long as I rinse it all out.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21239 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
Hi Everyone,

Today was fish and snail cleaning day (I mean their tanks.) When
my Mother went to look at my Livebear Fish named Janice, She was dead.
She was fine last night and I have no idea what happened. She was only
three years old so, I am not sure if that is old for a Livebearer or
not. She was a wild one, given to me by a friend.

Now, since I have nothing in Her very clean tank, I want to buy
some type of shrimp but, Mother is not sharing in my enthusiasm. She
does not want me to get anything else but, I think the Ghost Shrimp are
darling. I would love to have at least two. Anyway, I wanted to let
you know, Janice is dead. Thank you for allowing me to take up your
time. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21240 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Use white distilled vinegar, much safer than bleach.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: armitaget
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Best way to clean???


What is the best way to clean my old tank and everything that was in it?
There is some mineral build up from water spray on the upper parts
where the filter sat - also I need to clean the old submersible
heater.... Any ideas????
The pet store said bleach would be ok as long as I rinse it all out.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21241 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
OK great! I didn't know about that one!
Terri











--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Use white distilled vinegar, much safer than bleach.
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: armitaget
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 4:05 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Best way to clean???
>
>
> What is the best way to clean my old tank and everything that was
in it?
> There is some mineral build up from water spray on the upper parts
> where the filter sat - also I need to clean the old submersible
> heater.... Any ideas????
> The pet store said bleach would be ok as long as I rinse it all out.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21242 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
Steve,

I really don't know how old he is. He is still somewhat
small compared to my other two males. He is moving around
more today and actually raises his dorsal fin some. The
flaking is less. His fins are almost gone though. He did
not have the long flowing beatiful ones yet that my other
two have grown. Now he is just stubby. Do you think I'll
need to treat for fin rot or will they start to grow when
the ick is killed off?

I have gotten all my bettas from Wal Mart. I know most
aren't healthy but I can't stand to see them in those
nasty condidtions. I pick ones that probably other people
wouldn't pick.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> How old is your betta? With perfect conditions they only live 3-4 years. He may
> be nearing the end of his lifespan, and may be harder to bring around than a
> younger fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Thanks for helping. I confirmed the Ick with a list of
> symptons and pics that Lenny sent me. Then I changed
> the water adding the new salt. I had to get a larger
> heater to warm the water but it's at 81 degrees right
> now. The new heaters are preset so I can't raise it
> on my own. I hope this is high enough, with the salt,
> to knock this out. Sun is getting more lethargic and
> looks terrible. His fins are getting raggedy looking.
> He is still eating though. That makes me wonder if
> the ick could have came from frozen brine shrimp I fed
> them? The cory isn't showing any signs of it, yet...
> Thanks again!
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp.
>> salt
>> per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.
>>
>> Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature
>> shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is
>> effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that
>> is
>> what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the
>> cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only
>> affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the
>> temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At
>> this
>> temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.
>>
>> If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your
>> water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water
>> you have removed.
>>
>>
>> \\Steve//
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Cc: NHSNOLA@...
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>>
>> All,
>>
>> I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
>> assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
>> looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
>> and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
>> though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
>> 3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
>> please tell me how much salt to add and how many
>> times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
>> eating well although the Betta is not as active.
>> Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
>> the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Traci
>>
>> PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
>> adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21243 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Having trouble cleaning...
I have tried vinegar and have been scrubbing away. Still there are
these small areas at the top above water level with that strong lime
or whatever it is. I can't get it off. Also I scrubbed the heater and
some of the paint came off but not the white hard film on the heater
itself. YIKES!
Also, it seems I got the filter very wet but not actually submerged.
Is it dangerous to plug it in now - or should I wait until it has
dried out a week?
HELP!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21244 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: someone tell me...
shouls I add salt to my new aquarium while it is cycling?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21245 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
You need to trick him into thinking that the food is still alive. Krill may not be entirely appropriate in this context. You need to be able to spear it on the end of a stick, and move it around in front of the fish. Pieces of shrimp may make a good transition food, if you can wean him to that, then you can try other types of food.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie here. A little bit about me.

I live in Virginia Beach and I have a 55gal saltwater tank with 2 true
percula clown fish, 1 volital Lionfish and 1 large Hermite Crab. I
did not know that the lionfish ate other fish, so I know my clowns
won't survive too much longer if I don't remove them into another
tank. I do have a question already though. My lionfish won't switch
to frozen food. I've been feedinghim feeder guppies for about 2
months now and every attempt to feed him krill is unsuccessful. I
have another tank that we were going to use for the clowns when the
time comes, but if he doesn't switch to frozen in time then all is
lost. I currently have the feeders in the other tank. Do you have
any suggestions?




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21246 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
No, it will not, but why do you feel the need to add salt?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt and cycling tank

Will adding salt hurt the cycling process?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21247 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Depends on your idea of clean. Vinegar is good for the mineral deposits,
along with a lot of elbow grease and maybe help from a single edged
razor blade if it is particularly heavy. Water salt and elbow grease are
good for the rest of the tank. Ammonia with no additives can also help.
If you are interested in disinfecting, then also use a rinse of chlorine
bleach (no additives) and water. Then rinse well with plain water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 7:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Best way to clean???

What is the best way to clean my old tank and everything that was in it?

There is some mineral build up from water spray on the upper parts
where the filter sat - also I need to clean the old submersible
heater.... Any ideas????
The pet store said bleach would be ok as long as I rinse it all out.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21248 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
I don't think it would be fin rot, unless you see other signs of that the fins are actually rotting. They should grow back, but they will not be the same. Your betta was probably around 6 mos. old when you got him, so 18 months to two years would make him an old man. Beyond that, you are doing will with him, but he probably will not live much past three years.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 7:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....

Steve,

I really don't know how old he is. He is still somewhat
small compared to my other two males. He is moving around
more today and actually raises his dorsal fin some. The
flaking is less. His fins are almost gone though. He did
not have the long flowing beatiful ones yet that my other
two have grown. Now he is just stubby. Do you think I'll
need to treat for fin rot or will they start to grow when
the ick is killed off?

I have gotten all my bettas from Wal Mart. I know most
aren't healthy but I can't stand to see them in those
nasty condidtions. I pick ones that probably other people
wouldn't pick.

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> How old is your betta? With perfect conditions they only live 3-4 years. He may
> be nearing the end of his lifespan, and may be harder to bring around than a
> younger fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> Thanks for helping. I confirmed the Ick with a list of
> symptons and pics that Lenny sent me. Then I changed
> the water adding the new salt. I had to get a larger
> heater to warm the water but it's at 81 degrees right
> now. The new heaters are preset so I can't raise it
> on my own. I hope this is high enough, with the salt,
> to knock this out. Sun is getting more lethargic and
> looks terrible. His fins are getting raggedy looking.
> He is still eating though. That makes me wonder if
> the ick could have came from frozen brine shrimp I fed
> them? The cory isn't showing any signs of it, yet...
> Thanks again!
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp.
>> salt
>> per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.
>>
>> Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature
>> shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is
>> effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that
>> is
>> what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the
>> cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only
>> affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the
>> temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At
>> this
>> temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.
>>
>> If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your
>> water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water
>> you have removed.
>>
>>
>> \\Steve//
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Cc: NHSNOLA@...
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>>
>> All,
>>
>> I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
>> assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
>> looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
>> and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
>> though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
>> 3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
>> please tell me how much salt to add and how many
>> times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
>> eating well although the Betta is not as active.
>> Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
>> the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Traci
>>
>> PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
>> adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21249 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
I keep hearing that salt is so great for goldfish and how all these
experts "always" add it - so I was curious if it is preventative of
problems in some way... :-)
I have always done it just in emergency.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21250 From: armitaget Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Ok that sound like the next step - thanks so much - I truly appreciate
u taking the time to help
!:-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21251 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/7/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
No need to add it for your goldfish. I only use it when indicated for
treatment of a problem, or for certain fish who would do well in water
that is more alkaline than I can provide otherwise, particularly certain
livebearers. I've never added it when I kept goldfish as a regular
thing. Some do swear about the prophylactic effects of salt, and, indeed
it does have that property, but if you have to use it constantly for
that purpose, there is a problem with your fishkeeping skills, IMHO.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank

I keep hearing that salt is so great for goldfish and how all these
experts "always" add it - so I was curious if it is preventative of
problems in some way... :-)
I have always done it just in emergency.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21252 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: african dwarf frogs
so today I was at joannes fabric store and what did I see betta fish and
what was on the back side of the counter dwarf frogs... in little cups actually
they were much bigger cups than the pet stores use and the water was actually
clean and the fish and frogs looked really healthy with that said I know its
really odd to find fish in a fabric store but I went ahead and bought 3 frogs
for my tank.. at one time I had 7 in there and I just loved all the activity
but I am down to one and hesitated adding more but figured I had tons of
room and so I hope they are ok I was just wondering if you can put the African
dwarf frogs in betta tanks cause that is how they were selling them.. they
wouldn't be in a actively filtered tank then??? Shannon
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21253 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish on the homepage?
Here's a copy/paste from this site since you have to be a member to read the
article and profile:
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=
557

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/item.php?news=1060 (You can
read this without being a member)

Common name: Galaxy rasbora, Fireworks rasbora, Rasbora toei, Celestial
pearl danio
Scientific name: Microrasbora sp. "Galaxy". Currently being described and
due to be placed in a new genus shortly.
Origin: Myanmar. The supplier wanted to keep the exact collection locality
under wraps for commercial reasons. It was eventually discovered to be a
micro-habitat wetland area east of Inle Lake.
Habitat: According to the exporter, his species lives among dense vegetation
in a cool, high-altitude wetland region in a marsh area fed by a spring. It
lives in sympatry with Danio sondhii and the undescribed Rosy loach,
Yunnanilus sp.
Diet: Early reports suggested that the fish might only consume tiny live
foods, so most people have been feeding theirs with live Daphnia,
brineshrimp or microworms. However, most have reported that these will also
accept small dried foods such including Tetra Mini Granules and crumbled
flakes, as well as live Tubifex.
Size: A miniature species that is believed to be fully grown at around 1.5cm
in length. However, there are some reports of the fish reaching up to 3cm.
Water: Lives in moderately alkaline water with a temperature of around 24C
or less. Collectors have claimed that the water in the collection locality
is at pH 7.3 with a hardness of 7 GH (235 microsiemens). They seem very
adaptable. Some of the Singapore fishkeepers who were first to obtain the
species reported success in keeping them in small blackwater tanks with a pH
ranging from 4.5-5.7. In the UK, they've happily acclimatised to our harder,
more alkaline water without problems.
Aquarium: Due to its tiny size, this beautiful little cyprinid would be best
in a small aquarium, away from larger fish that might look upon it as a
tasty snack. You could keep an impressive little shoal of these in a tiny
desktop aquarium such as the AquaCube we gave away with last month's
Practical Fishkeeping subscription. No details on the habitat are available,
however, aquarium observations seem to suggest that the fish likes
well-aerated or flowing water. Most fishkeepers are keeping theirs in small
planted aquariums, in which the species is the only inhabitant.
Notes: New fish don't come much newer than this: the species was only
discovered a few weeks ago (August 2006) and was first introduced by Kamphol
Udomritthiruj of Thailand-based exporter AquariCORP. The first specimens
arrived in the UK during September. Practical Fishkeeping was the world's
first magazine to break news of the species.
Conservation status: Sadly, we reported in February 2007 that Udomritthiruj
had visited the type locality and discovered that other collectors had gone
to the area and fished it so heavily that catches were down to just a few
dozen specimens per day. The conservation status of the species now looks
bleak and we would advise all fishkeepers to avoid this fish unless they
have the skills to breed the species in captivity.
Identification: Undoubtedly a new species but only tentatively considered a
Microrasbora due to its resemblance with Microrasbora erythromicron.
Unlikely to be confused with anything else, given its striking appearance.
It is due to be placed in a new genus, along with M. erythromicron, later in
February 2007.
Sexing: Quite simple to sex when the fish are in good condition. Males are
brighter coloured and have bright red fins with squiggles of blue-black in
the dorsal and anal, and the upper lobes of the caudal fin. The chests of
males are also more orangey and they tend to be slimmer. Females are
slightly less colourful, with less red and fewer dark squiggles and
uncoloured pelvic fins. They have rounder bodies and a slightly paler
overall colour. Both sexes have the same chunky appearance seen in Danio
choprai and the hump-backed of Microrasbora erythromicron.
Breeding: Pete Liptrot and Paul Dixon of the Bolton Museum Aquarium were the
world's first fishkeepers to spawn this species, and they managed to do just
a couple of weeks after the fish first became available in the UK. Very
little is known about reproduction. Paul says that he observed a
brightly-coloured male attempting to drive females into a spawning mop and
Pete found seven small eggs in a clump of Java moss a week later and spotted
some fry which had already hatched. Said Pete: "The eggs have been laid over
Java Moss and appear to be only very slightly adhesive, they drop out of the
moss very easily. We've removed the moss to another aquarium to see what
else hatches. As we were moving the moss one of the smaller males was very
busy hunting around for eggs or fry."
Behaviour: Males can be rather quarrelsome with each other and often flare,
spar and fight resulting in minor splits to the fins. Most people keeping
these in groups of six plus have observed shoaling in their fish, and
several have reported minor territoriality in males.
Availability: This species was first imported into Singapore in
mid-September and arrived in the UK a week later. Both Wildwoods and BAS
currently have hundreds in stock and the fish has also appeared on import
lists used by other suppliers around the country, so the fish should be more
widely available soon. One supplier was referring to the fish as the
Fireworks rasbora and cited the name Rasbora toei, which is fictitious. As I
predicted in early September 2006, a few weeks after this fish was
discovered, I think this species has massive commercial potential for the
small aquarium market. It has undoubtedly been the most talked about fish
species of 2006, and the century so far.
Price: Prices vary, but currently around £6 each. We highly advise
fishkeepers to avoid this species, unless they are capable of breeding it.

This article was first published in the December 2006 issue of Practical
Fishkeeping. The stunning photograph is the work of Aaron Koo.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 9:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish on the homepage?

Thanks for the "heads up" on this beauty. I have never seen it before.
Don't think they have them around my way. Not yet anyway.

All the material I read gave a lot about their environment except the water.
Does anyone have any idea of what kind of water they have in the Salween
basin? For one thing, I think its probably on the acid side, but I may be
wrong. I'm not at all acquainted with it except to know the Salween is a
river flowing from SW China through E Burma to the bay of Bengal. That's a
big area, and exactly where these fish are located would dictate their likes
in pH, etc. The plants from the habitat Roberts describes, Elodea and
Anacharis, are usually grown best in soft water in the low 70's (sometimes
cooler). Does anyone know for sure?

joe t


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21254 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Best way to clean???
Use vinegar on the mineral buildup. Was it a FW or SW tank? After getting
rid of the mineral buildup, you could use a mild bleach solution... maybe
1/10th to 1/20th bleach... and then rinse, rinse, rinse and then rinse some
more.

I like using the vinegar to clean the buildup, then use clear water and a
scrubby pad to clean everything else. Then use Hydrogen Peroxide to
disinfect. A 35 cent pint size bottle will dose down a nice sized tank. A
couple of 50 cent quart sized bottles could even let you soak certain items.
HP (H2O2) dilutes with no problem with water and basically becomes water
after it bubbles and loses that extra O molecule. Some fish keepers even
dose their tanks with HP to fight certain algae's and it does not kill their
fish... unlike if one used bleach.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Best way to clean???

What is the best way to clean my old tank and everything that was in it?
There is some mineral build up from water spray on the upper parts where the
filter sat - also I need to clean the old submersible heater.... Any
ideas????
The pet store said bleach would be ok as long as I rinse it all out.



------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-->
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21255 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
What size tank do you have?

If you had the fish for 3 years, and do not know how old it was when you
bought it, it could have been older. I think 5 years is a good lifespan for
many livebearers. I have a lifespan guide in my blog if you want to look
over it.

Here's a good site to read up more on shrimp.
http://www.petshrimp.com/shrimpspecies.html

Another "cute" critter that does OK in smaller 2-3G tanks are African Dwarf
Frog's (ADF's). Here's a good profile on them.
http://thegab.org/Articles/ADFCareSheet.html

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of michelle_brown134
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Good Evening All, I Have Bad News

Hi Everyone,

Today was fish and snail cleaning day (I mean their tanks.) When my
Mother went to look at my Livebear Fish named Janice, She was dead.
She was fine last night and I have no idea what happened. She was only
three years old so, I am not sure if that is old for a Livebearer or not.
She was a wild one, given to me by a friend.

Now, since I have nothing in Her very clean tank, I want to buy some
type of shrimp but, Mother is not sharing in my enthusiasm. She does not
want me to get anything else but, I think the Ghost Shrimp are darling. I
would love to have at least two. Anyway, I wanted to let you know, Janice
is dead. Thank you for allowing me to take up your time. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21256 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
There are as many experts who say do not use salt with goldfish as there are
those who do. Half way down on this page are around seven articles showing
the pros and cons of salt and the osmoregulatory system.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/disease-illness-diagnosis-treatment.ht
ml

I only use it for "medicinal" purposes... not as a permanent fixture in my
"Freshwater" tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank

I keep hearing that salt is so great for goldfish and how all these experts
"always" add it - so I was curious if it is preventative of problems in some
way... :-) I have always done it just in emergency.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21257 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
I had some. You really should use a filter, If you
don't, then you MUST completely change the water at
least every other day.


--- SaraRamirezRocks@... wrote:

> so today I was at joannes fabric store and what did
> I see betta fish and
> what was on the back side of the counter dwarf
> frogs... in little cups actually
> they were much bigger cups than the pet stores use
> and the water was actually
> clean and the fish and frogs looked really healthy
> with that said I know its
> really odd to find fish in a fabric store but I went
> ahead and bought 3 frogs
> for my tank.. at one time I had 7 in there and I
> just loved all the activity
> but I am down to one and hesitated adding more but
> figured I had tons of
> room and so I hope they are ok I was just wondering
> if you can put the African
> dwarf frogs in betta tanks cause that is how they
> were selling them.. they
> wouldn't be in a actively filtered tank then???
> Shannon
>
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR>
> AOL now offers free
> email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at
> http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>


__________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21258 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Having trouble cleaning...
I would either leave the lime deposits on the heater if they are not too
heavy, or buy a new heater.



I would wait 24 hours before plugging in the filter.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Having trouble cleaning...



I have tried vinegar and have been scrubbing away. Still there are
these small areas at the top above water level with that strong lime
or whatever it is. I can't get it off. Also I scrubbed the heater and
some of the paint came off but not the white hard film on the heater
itself. YIKES!
Also, it seems I got the filter very wet but not actually submerged.
Is it dangerous to plug it in now - or should I wait until it has
dried out a week?
HELP!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21259 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank
I agree with Steve and from my reading on this and other forums, there are
even more experts who don't add salt except when there is a particular
problem that salt can help.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank



No need to add it for your goldfish. I only use it when indicated for
treatment of a problem, or for certain fish who would do well in water
that is more alkaline than I can provide otherwise, particularly certain
livebearers. I've never added it when I kept goldfish as a regular
thing. Some do swear about the prophylactic effects of salt, and, indeed
it does have that property, but if you have to use it constantly for
that purpose, there is a problem with your fishkeeping skills, IMHO.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 11:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Salt and cycling tank

I keep hearing that salt is so great for goldfish and how all these
experts "always" add it - so I was curious if it is preventative of
problems in some way... :-)
I have always done it just in emergency.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21260 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: ICK, Please help....
He is much improved this morning. I did another
PWC and added the salt back in. He is showing
more interest and flaring at the cory. Most of
the flaking is gone. I hope his fins will come
back somewhat because they were a beatiful color.
If they only live @ 3 years then I'll still have
him for a long time. (Lord willing, and no more
catostrophes in this tank, that is.) Thanks again
for the help. And Lenny!

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> I don't think it would be fin rot, unless you see other signs of that the fins
> are actually rotting. They should grow back, but they will not be the same.
> Your betta was probably around 6 mos. old when you got him, so 18 months to two
> years would make him an old man. Beyond that, you are doing will with him, but
> he probably will not live much past three years.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 7:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>
> Steve,
>
> I really don't know how old he is. He is still somewhat
> small compared to my other two males. He is moving around
> more today and actually raises his dorsal fin some. The
> flaking is less. His fins are almost gone though. He did
> not have the long flowing beatiful ones yet that my other
> two have grown. Now he is just stubby. Do you think I'll
> need to treat for fin rot or will they start to grow when
> the ick is killed off?
>
> I have gotten all my bettas from Wal Mart. I know most
> aren't healthy but I can't stand to see them in those
> nasty condidtions. I pick ones that probably other people
> wouldn't pick.
>
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>> How old is your betta? With perfect conditions they only live 3-4 years. He
>> may
>> be nearing the end of his lifespan, and may be harder to bring around than a
>> younger fish.
>>
>>
>> \\Steve//
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Monday, March 05, 2007 7:06 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>>
>> Hi Steve,
>>
>> Thanks for helping. I confirmed the Ick with a list of
>> symptons and pics that Lenny sent me. Then I changed
>> the water adding the new salt. I had to get a larger
>> heater to warm the water but it's at 81 degrees right
>> now. The new heaters are preset so I can't raise it
>> on my own. I hope this is high enough, with the salt,
>> to knock this out. Sun is getting more lethargic and
>> looks terrible. His fins are getting raggedy looking.
>> He is still eating though. That makes me wonder if
>> the ick could have came from frozen brine shrimp I fed
>> them? The cory isn't showing any signs of it, yet...
>> Thanks again!
>>
>> Traci
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>>
>>> You gave the correct amount of salt. You are looking to treat with 1 tsp.
>>> salt
>>> per gallon, and your ten gallon tank probably has closer to 9 gallons in it.
>>>
>>> Have you raised the temperature of the tank? Increasing the temperature
>>> shortens the life cycle of this parasite. The only time the treatment is
>>> effective is during the free swimming stage when the trophants (I think that
>>> is
>>> what they are called) are looking for a host. The salt will not affect the
>>> cysts themselves or the eggs that are released when they burst. It will only
>>> affect the parasite in its free swimming stage. If you have not raised the
>>> temperature, bring it up to 84-86°F. for the duration of the treatment. At
>>> this
>>> temperature, the life cycle of the parasite is about 1 week.
>>>
>>> If you do a water change, fill the tank with freshwater first, then do your
>>> water change, and add the appropriate amount of salt for the amount of water
>>> you have removed.
>>>
>>>
>>> \\Steve//
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>>> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>>> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 11:44 AM
>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> Cc: NHSNOLA@...
>>> Subject: [AquaticLife] ICK, Please help....
>>>
>>> All,
>>>
>>> I need your help, again. My male betta has Ick. I
>>> assume it's Ick. He's covered in a white powdery
>>> looking substance. I know to treat it with salt
>>> and high temp. I don't remember how much salt
>>> though. I did a 25% PWC last night and added in
>>> 3 TBS of salt. He's in the 10 gallon tank. Can you
>>> please tell me how much salt to add and how many
>>> times? I don't see any on the cory and both are
>>> eating well although the Betta is not as active.
>>> Thanks in advance. Do you ever get tired of educating
>>> the new ones? (I hope not, Sun needs help)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Traci
>>>
>>> PS. I read on the Cory website that they are not
>>> adversely affected by salt. The site is Corysrus.
>>>
>>>
>>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>>> Texas Instruments
>>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21261 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Salt and cycling tank
Are you "fishless cycling" or the not-so-good "cycling with fish". It's not
needed in a fishless cycle but it can help the fish cope with the stress and
nitrites when cycling with fish.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of armitaget
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Salt and cycling tank

Will adding salt hurt the cycling process?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21262 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: cleaning...
My husband did this with no ill effects and I was flabbergasted but it
worked. He used CLR, calcium, lime, rust remover on all the ornaments and
heater in his tank. It apparently rinsed clean and his fish showed no sign
of distress. It may be worth trying as a last resort. Susan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21263 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Here's a good ADF care sheet. http://thegab.org/Articles/ADFCareSheet.html
OR http://www.flippersandfins.net/adfcaresheet.asp

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of SaraRamirezRocks@...
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 2:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] african dwarf frogs

so today I was at joannes fabric store and what did I see betta fish and
what was on the back side of the counter dwarf frogs... in little cups
actually they were much bigger cups than the pet stores use and the water
was actually clean and the fish and frogs looked really healthy with that
said I know its really odd to find fish in a fabric store but I went ahead
and bought 3 frogs for my tank.. at one time I had 7 in there and I just
loved all the activity but I am down to one and hesitated adding more but
figured I had tons of room and so I hope they are ok I was just wondering
if you can put the African dwarf frogs in betta tanks cause that is how
they were selling them.. they wouldn't be in a actively filtered tank
then??? Shannon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21264 From: unclesticknick Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Cleaning River Sand
Hi, I've nabbed some sand from the wash last time I was out hiking and
want to redo my tropical to use this sand. I know I need to clean out
the undesirables but I'm having troubles finding a good sieve-type
device.

I want a net or similar that would allow me to either filter thru the
good sand and leave the bad stuff inside or filter thru the bad stuff
and keep in the goodies. I plan on running the 'wash' process many
times to best ensure 'clean' sand. I looked at Pet Smart for a net
and ended up getting a pond net but am going to take it back because
it's not going to work and also cost too much ($20). I just need
something cheap and easy and was looking for the posts to see if
anyone else has done similar. I thought about using pantyhose but I
think it would not let enough thru.

I did get some pretty expert advice on the tank setup so I feel
confident that the wash sand will help (so plz minimize comments
chastizing me on my selection). However, the gentleman is very
difficult to get ahold of and I feel he has already done a great deal
in assistance. If you can provide assistance on the 'clean' process
for this sand (e.g. what to use to filter, what to be looking for,
etc.), it would be much appreciated.

N-
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21265 From: dansant5 Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Yamato Green, was Re: lighting - warm color
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
> Have you ever tried Yamato Green? I started using it a couple months
> ago-blows Flourish out of the water! You have to get it from their
> website though.(yamatogreen.com)
> Kevin

snip

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dansant5" <dansant3@> wrote:
I liked the color enhancing
> > from the Aquari-Lux bulb, & coupled with the daylight bulb, clay in
> > the substrate, & some Flourish, the plants do fairly well; enough
to
> > keep me happy.

snip


Thanks for the info about the Yamato Green, Keith. I'll have to check
it out. From my previous post, you can see that I try to keep it low
budget, but in a way, that adds another dimension to the hobby. I
don't use CO2 or high-end lighting, so a change to Yamato Green might
or might not make much of a difference for me. I've never trid PMDD
either. Maybe I should give that a try.
Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21266 From: dansant5 Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: lighting - warm color
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dansant5" <dansant3@...> wrote:

snip

I liked the color enhancing
> from the Aquari-Lux bulb, & coupled with the daylight bulb, clay in
> the substrate, & some Flourish, the plants do fairly well; enough
to
> keep me happy.
>
> Lighting has obviously changed in 10 years, and I don't want to
waste
> money checking out new bulbs, so I was hoping to tap into someone's
> experience here. If anyone remembers the warm color that the
Aquari-
> Lux bulb gave to the tank, do they still give the same color
> rendition? If not, could you recommend a bulb that gives those
warm
> colors? Please keep in mind that this lighting is for times when I
> just want to sit & look at the tank with just this one light on,
not
> necessarily what's best for the plants, although if both can be
> achieved at the same time, all the better.
>
> Thanks for any input,
> Dan

Hope this isn't too tacky, replying to my own post. I checked the
lighting FAQ at The Krib & got color number info. I knew I should
have checked the FAQ first, but thought there might be someone with
specific info on color rendition in today's fluorescent bulbs.
Thanks anyway,
Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21267 From: Jessica Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
I've tried that. he was interested at first, you know, kind or
followed it and watched it, but never even looked like he was going
to eat it. Do you think silversides would be more realistic? Thanks
Steve!!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to trick him into thinking that the food is still alive.
Krill may not be entirely appropriate in this context. You need to be
able to spear it on the end of a stick, and move it around in front
of the fish. Pieces of shrimp may make a good transition food, if you
can wean him to that, then you can try other types of food.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie here. A little bit about me.
>
> I live in Virginia Beach and I have a 55gal saltwater tank with 2
true
> percula clown fish, 1 volital Lionfish and 1 large Hermite Crab. I
> did not know that the lionfish ate other fish, so I know my clowns
> won't survive too much longer if I don't remove them into another
> tank. I do have a question already though. My lionfish won't
switch
> to frozen food. I've been feedinghim feeder guppies for about 2
> months now and every attempt to feed him krill is unsuccessful. I
> have another tank that we were going to use for the clowns when the
> time comes, but if he doesn't switch to frozen in time then all is
> lost. I currently have the feeders in the other tank. Do you have
> any suggestions?
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21268 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Nebie with Lionfish and Clowns
Hi and welcome,
First off, get those clowns out immediately. It's just not right to subject them to that kind of danger. Everyone who keeps fish should have an isolation tank. I have a 75 and 110 salt and keep a ten gallon under the 75. I have a fresh water as well and occasionally I have to change the tank to fresh to isolate a sick fish. When we have had problems with fish bullying others we take them out immediately and take them to a pet store, we can usually talk them into giving us some kind of credit towards something else but occasionally we have to take them to a shop that won't but I don't care as long as they don't end up dying. I'm a little sensitive when it comes to fish and sometimes get very emotional when something happens to them so forgive me for sounding crazy but please just get them out OR if it were me, I would get rid of the lion fish. I have been into saltwater for 4 yrs and my husband for about 8 and feel like I am quite knowledgable in the hobby. We have had several lion fish and the only ones that we had that lasted a while were the ones that we fed live food to and since I refuse to do that anymore we don't keep them anymore. We have been successful at getting the lionfish to eat frozen foods everytime but they just don't seem to live as long. We used one of those long clear acrylic sticks and put the shrimp on the end and wiggled it. It does take about a week of the fish not eating to get them to start feeding though. Hope this helped
Amanda Jones
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21269 From: amandalh76@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Nebie with Lionfish and Clowns
Hi and welcome,
First off, get those clowns out immediately. It's just not right to subject them to that kind of danger. Everyone who keeps fish should have an isolation tank. I have a 75 and 110 salt and keep a ten gallon under the 75. I have a fresh water as well and occasionally I have to change the tank to fresh to isolate a sick fish. When we have had problems with fish bullying others we take them out immediately and take them to a pet store, we can usually talk them into giving us some kind of credit towards something else but occasionally we have to take them to a shop that won't but I don't care as long as they don't end up dying. I'm a little sensitive when it comes to fish and sometimes get very emotional when something happens to them so forgive me for sounding crazy but please just get them out OR if it were me, I would get rid of the lion fish. I have been into saltwater for 4 yrs and my husband for about 8 and feel like I am quite knowledgable in the hobby. We have had several lion fish and the only ones that we had that lasted a while were the ones that we fed live food to and since I refuse to do that anymore we don't keep them anymore. We have been successful at getting the lionfish to eat frozen foods everytime but they just don't seem to live as long. We used one of those long clear acrylic sticks and put the shrimp on the end and wiggled it. It does take about a week of the fish not eating to get them to start feeding though. Hope this helped
Amanda Jones
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21270 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
thanks that is a good site.. Shannon:




Here's a good ADF care sheet. _http://thegab.http://thegabhttp://thegabhttp_
(http://thegab.org/Articles/ADFCareSheet.html)
OR _http://www.flippershttp://www.fhttp://www.flhtt_
(http://www.flippersandfins.net/adfcaresheet.asp)






<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21271 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Hi, I was surfing craigslist last night and found a post that apparently no one else saw....and I am getting a 55 gallon tank and stand with a nemo in it. The tank has no lights but has a filter. That is all I know at this moment. I have to find some containers to take as much of the water I suppose as I can......and the tank.

Well, I am cycling my technically first freshwater tank with 3 guppies in it now, and waiting another week to introduce a few more fish......everything is going well there.

but I just couldnt' say no to this offer...it is better that great, even get a 20 gallon tank thrown in......etc etc. I could resale but I just know I will fall in love. I see a sparsley populated tank at the LFS, and it has a clown, anemone, crab, and maybe live sand (?) and I think it is neat so maybe I could do the same, on a small scale (yeah right! LOL)

so.........if you could tell me in saltwater 101........what can I do to help prepare for my new Nemo (clown fish I suppose it is). I searched the internet quickly today, checking pricing etc. and see that they need an anemone. I don't know if he comes with one, but I would like one for him, and a smaller or larger brother too........ see how this hobby expands.........LOL!

Any words from the wise and experienced here? I will do some research but, thought you could help me zero in on key things if you have time or good links etc.

Thanks
Patti M





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21272 From: Karen Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
an anemone will require lots of light, the expensive kind. You could
get cheaper lights for $150-$200 and have some soft corals that the
clown will likely use instead of an anemone. I have clowns in a 75 gal
tank with power compact lighting. I don't have any corals or anemones.
Lots of macroalgae(seaweed) though. My clowns are happy.
I will see If I can find the links from a few years ago. I was
researching because I wanted a bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea
quadricolor.) They are supposed to be easiest.
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21273 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
In a message dated 3/8/2007 6:00:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
msrnt2004@... writes:

I searched the internet quickly today, checking pricing etc. and see that
they need an anemone.



Clowns don't actually need an anemone in captivity...and anemones are *very*
demanding animals (powerful lighting, flow, and pristine water conditions.)

Also consider that not every species of anemone is compatible with every (or
even any) clown species.

Kiesha Crawmer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21274 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Good Evening All, I Have Bad News
Sorry about your loss. I don't get on this forum much so I don't know
anything about you or your experience, so don't take offense. You say
"today was fish and snail cleaning day" and that you "have a very
clean tank." How did you clean it? Was it a partial water change?
What kind of live bearer was she? Since she was three-years old, I
assume you've cleaned the tank before, so maybe I'm barking up the
wrong tree. What size tank? I have no experience with ghost shrimp
so I can't comment on that, but depending on your preferences, size of
tank, and ability maintain it, we could suggest other fish. I have a
ten-gallon tank with platies (live bearers) and they are very easy to
care for. Also, a 20-gallon long with two large goldfish and a minnow
(who thinks he's a goldfish). Tell us more about your setup.

Shirley

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "michelle_brown134"
<michelle_brown134@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Today was fish and snail cleaning day (I mean their tanks.) When
> my Mother went to look at my Livebear Fish named Janice, She was dead.
> She was fine last night and I have no idea what happened. She was only
> three years old so, I am not sure if that is old for a Livebearer or
> not. She was a wild one, given to me by a friend.
>
> Now, since I have nothing in Her very clean tank, I want to buy
> some type of shrimp but, Mother is not sharing in my enthusiasm. She
> does not want me to get anything else but, I think the Ghost Shrimp are
> darling. I would love to have at least two. Anyway, I wanted to let
> you know, Janice is dead. Thank you for allowing me to take up your
> time. Sincerely, Dawn
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21275 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
I don't really know. I have not kept marines, just done some reading in
that area. If you allow him to go hungry fro a few days, he is likely to
be more receptive your offerings.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.

I've tried that. he was interested at first, you know, kind or
followed it and watched it, but never even looked like he was going
to eat it. Do you think silversides would be more realistic? Thanks
Steve!!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to trick him into thinking that the food is still alive.
Krill may not be entirely appropriate in this context. You need to be
able to spear it on the end of a stick, and move it around in front
of the fish. Pieces of shrimp may make a good transition food, if you
can wean him to that, then you can try other types of food.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie here. A little bit about me.
>
> I live in Virginia Beach and I have a 55gal saltwater tank with 2
true
> percula clown fish, 1 volital Lionfish and 1 large Hermite Crab. I
> did not know that the lionfish ate other fish, so I know my clowns
> won't survive too much longer if I don't remove them into another
> tank. I do have a question already though. My lionfish won't
switch
> to frozen food. I've been feedinghim feeder guppies for about 2
> months now and every attempt to feed him krill is unsuccessful. I
> have another tank that we were going to use for the clowns when the
> time comes, but if he doesn't switch to frozen in time then all is
> lost. I currently have the feeders in the other tank. Do you have
> any suggestions?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21276 From: Rich Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
Hi You might want to try this group african dwarf
frogs@... .They are a good group to learn about frogs.
Thanks,
Rich






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, SaraRamirezRocks@...
wrote:
>
>
> thanks that is a good site.. Shannon:
>
>
>
>
> Here's a good ADF care sheet.
_http://thegab.http://thegabhttp://thegabhttp_
> (http://thegab.org/Articles/ADFCareSheet.html)
> OR _http://www.flippershttp://www.fhttp://www.flhtt_
> (http://www.flippersandfins.net/adfcaresheet.asp)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> <BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now
offers free
> email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
> http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21277 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.
If the lion was too small to eat the clowns 2 months ago, and is growing up in there with them, he my never look at them as food. I have seen them grow up in reef tanks,not even eating the cleaner wrasse or even cleaner shrimp,and coral banded shrimp. Just have to get them very small, and make them the last addition. I keep them in a 10 gal. until I get them trained to eat frozen food. Feed live foods mixed with frozen silver sides. The eating frenzy begins and they just swallow,not caring what they ate. Then start feeding silversides only and see if that works. Be sure to remove any non eaten foods, and be carefully not to get stung. Try not to over feed , meat eaters produce allot of protein (ammonia).
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 6:15 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.


I don't really know. I have not kept marines, just done some reading in
that area. If you allow him to go hungry fro a few days, he is likely to
be more receptive your offerings.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie here. A little bit about me.

I've tried that. he was interested at first, you know, kind or
followed it and watched it, but never even looked like he was going
to eat it. Do you think silversides would be more realistic? Thanks
Steve!!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You need to trick him into thinking that the food is still alive.
Krill may not be entirely appropriate in this context. You need to be
able to spear it on the end of a stick, and move it around in front
of the fish. Pieces of shrimp may make a good transition food, if you
can wean him to that, then you can try other types of food.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 1:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie here. A little bit about me.
>
> I live in Virginia Beach and I have a 55gal saltwater tank with 2
true
> percula clown fish, 1 volital Lionfish and 1 large Hermite Crab. I
> did not know that the lionfish ate other fish, so I know my clowns
> won't survive too much longer if I don't remove them into another
> tank. I do have a question already though. My lionfish won't
switch
> to frozen food. I've been feedinghim feeder guppies for about 2
> months now and every attempt to feed him krill is unsuccessful. I
> have another tank that we were going to use for the clowns when the
> time comes, but if he doesn't switch to frozen in time then all is
> lost. I currently have the feeders in the other tank. Do you have
> any suggestions?
>





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21278 From: Karen Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, crawmerk@... wrote:
>
> demanding animals (powerful lighting, flow, and pristine water
conditions.)
>
> Also consider that not every species of anemone is compatible with
every (or
> even any) clown species.
>
> Kiesha Crawmer
>
some of the reasons I gave up. I would hate to own such a beautiful
animal and watch it die.
karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21279 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Hi, I talked to the owner for first time today. She said she had "Nemo" for 2 yrs.....no anemone and he did fine.... she suggested a crab etc. She said she had a lot of algae in her tank but that was a good thing.

Here we go! a Nemo (I love them!). But, if too much, for now, I may sell the tank, and Nemo too. We will see.

Patti



crawmerk@... wrote:

In a message dated 3/8/2007 6:00:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
msrnt2004@... writes:

I searched the internet quickly today, checking pricing etc. and see that
they need an anemone.

Clowns don't actually need an anemone in captivity...and anemones are *very*
demanding animals (powerful lighting, flow, and pristine water conditions.)

Also consider that not every species of anemone is compatible with every (or
even any) clown species.

Kiesha Crawmer





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21280 From: Patti M. Date: 3/8/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Hey Karen, great you have clowns. I know I am going to fall in love with this one! LOL!

I saw today that I should get a smaller or larger one if I get a second (I think I should for heaven's sake), size difference supposedly will help eliminate fighting I guess. Settles the dominance issue?

From what I am guessing, the bulb is out in the lighting, so I will need to get something......

I will know more Sunday.

thanks!
Patti

Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
an anemone will require lots of light, the expensive kind. You could
get cheaper lights for $150-$200 and have some soft corals that the
clown will likely use instead of an anemone. I have clowns in a 75 gal
tank with power compact lighting. I don't have any corals or anemones.
Lots of macroalgae(seaweed) though. My clowns are happy.
I will see If I can find the links from a few years ago. I was
researching because I wanted a bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea
quadricolor.) They are supposed to be easiest.
Karen






---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21283 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: african dwarf frogs
thanks ill go there.. Shannon




Hi You might want to try this group african dwarf
_frogs@..._ (mailto:frogs@...) .They are a good group
to learn about frogs.
Thanks,
Rich







<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21284 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
In a message dated 3/8/2007 11:26:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
steve01@... writes:

i have 2 nemo fish percula clownfish mine are false percula and yours
probably are too i believe the difference between a true and a false
percula is that false are born in captivity and as true are born in
the wild



No, true and false perculas are actually two different species. Both are
available as tank bred or wild caught. The species name for a "false" percula is
ocellaris.

Kiesha Crawmer
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21287 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Let me see if I can remember what I read...
The larger clown in a pair is the female. Clownfish do not determine what sex they want to be at first. In a large group there are usually mostly sexually immature fish. When you get a young pair and bring them home they will mature and pair up so that there is one of each sex. Anyway, that's what I have read and that's how it worked in my tank.
You should try wetwebmedia.com, it's a great resourse for any thing related to fresh or salt water aquaria. Also, there is a podcast on reefcast.com about clownfish. It's older so check their archives.

"Patti M." <msrnt2004@...> wrote:
Hey Karen, great you have clowns. I know I am going to fall in love with this one! LOL!

I saw today that I should get a smaller or larger one if I get a second (I think I should for heaven's sake), size difference supposedly will help eliminate fighting I guess. Settles the dominance issue?

From what I am guessing, the bulb is out in the lighting, so I will need to get something......

I will know more Sunday.

thanks!
Patti

Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
an anemone will require lots of light, the expensive kind. You could
get cheaper lights for $150-$200 and have some soft corals that the
clown will likely use instead of an anemone. I have clowns in a 75 gal
tank with power compact lighting. I don't have any corals or anemones.
Lots of macroalgae(seaweed) though. My clowns are happy.
I will see If I can find the links from a few years ago. I was
researching because I wanted a bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea
quadricolor.) They are supposed to be easiest.
Karen

---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21288 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Amazon sword plant dying
Hubby bought an Amazon sword plant; it was in one those tiny plastic
pots with some kind of cottony-type stuff around the roots, and hubby
put it, as is, in the aquarium and it's dying. He removed it, took it
out of the little pot, and planted in regular potting soil in water in
a small fish bowl (sans fish). I told him potting soil wouldn't work,
and it hasn't. I browsed on-line briefly and found one site that said
you need to remove the plant from the tiny pot, remove the cottony
stuff from the roots, and plant in substrate of sand, plus add some
kind of fertilizer(?) I told hubby but of course he doesn't want to
admit he didn't know what he was doing. Can you be real specific about
what I should do to save this plant? All four of our aquariums are
established and have about half to three-quarters of an inch of
gravel. If I need to put sand in for the plant, how do I do that, just
put it on top of the gravel? Can I get the fertilizer in the LFS?
Your advice please.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21289 From: quietari Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Amazon swords need a good substrate and good lighting. They are less
c02 dependent than other plants, so i think you can get by without a
c02 injection system. However, you should make sure your lighting is
adequate and consistent.

You can find fertilizer at a LFS that carrys aquatic plant supplies.
Most will carry the plants, but won't have much for c02 systems,
reaction chambers, ceramic diffusers, fertilizers...it's really hit and
miss. I think in the database section there are recipes for DIY
fertilizer, i am sure google is full of information about DIY stuff as
well. Your plant will need at least 2 inches of fertilizer, and odds
are you will need to, eventually, add liquid fertilzer to replenish
nutrients. Adding 'sand' or such to the fertilizer is a bit trickey,
because sand comes in a lot of different varieties. Usually what is
suggested for aquatic plants is course river sand, its grains are large
enough to allow growth, but not abrasive to harm the plant. Other sand
should be avoided, like superfine sand. It compacts so much that it
will inhibit plant growth. I think if you are going to buy an over-the-
counter fertilizer you wont need to worry about adding anything to it.

I would strongly suggest keeping the plant in a pot. They are known
as "tank busters" because of how big they can grow. Amazon swords dont
have the speed of say, hornwort, that can grow a half inch or more a
day, but given the right circumstances it will grow very large and
dominate other plants and root systems. Also, if propagation is ever
desired, it will be easier to do (by cutting it in half) if you do not
have to pull up an entire plant's root system (clouding the water) and
replanting the root system (clouding the water even more).

That cottony stuff should be removed as much as possible without
damaging the roots. Plants like dwarf hairgrass or baby tears may have
to find a root system to remove completely. I don't suspect your
amazong sword's roots are that fine or brittle for that to be an
issue. You can remove most of it by hand and use tweezers for the
harder to remove parts. Also use that as an opportunity to remove any
dead or dying leaves. Live plants require regular upkeep, which should
be done before the routine water change (that way you can use your
siphon to suck up the snipped leaves)

The addition of living plants to a tank system can take some getting
used to, and shouldn't be viewed as something that you can just set it
and forget it. However i do not think i could ever go back to not
having plants in a tank, they just add so much to the aesthetic value,
not to mention how much all my fish\frogs\shrimp love them.

Oh yea, on a side note...keep an eye on snails. Many live plants will
have snail eggs or baby snails in them. You can soak the plant in a
solution to kill the snails, or you can rely on fish to eat them (not
all will though). It is something to keep an eye on, but nothing you
need to worry about. I added some yoyo loaches to my tank, and in
addition to the fun i have watching them play with each other, they
will also feast on any young snails you have.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> Hubby bought an Amazon sword plant; it was in one those tiny plastic
> pots with some kind of cottony-type stuff around the roots, and hubby
> put it, as is, in the aquarium and it's dying. He removed it, took it
> out of the little pot, and planted in regular potting soil in water in
> a small fish bowl (sans fish). I told him potting soil wouldn't work,
> and it hasn't. I browsed on-line briefly and found one site that said
> you need to remove the plant from the tiny pot, remove the cottony
> stuff from the roots, and plant in substrate of sand, plus add some
> kind of fertilizer(?) I told hubby but of course he doesn't want to
> admit he didn't know what he was doing. Can you be real specific about
> what I should do to save this plant? All four of our aquariums are
> established and have about half to three-quarters of an inch of
> gravel. If I need to put sand in for the plant, how do I do that, just
> put it on top of the gravel? Can I get the fertilizer in the LFS?
> Your advice please.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21290 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
I have had amazons and have a new one and I used flourish excel to keep it
healthy it seems like when I don't have the flourish in there a few times a
week the plant seems to get yucky looking so I try and add it in a few times a
week I had mine in the pot for about a month then took it out normally I
removed them from the pot right away but I was thinking of changing up my tank at
the time.. Shannon
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21291 From: schroedel2003 Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: glofish
looking to ask anyone who has or has had glofish danios.i would like to
ask some questions before i get some. schroedel2003@...
thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21292 From: harry perry Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
Try this. Copy and paste and remove any extra spaces.

http://www.glofish.com/about.asp

Harry

schroedel2003 <schroedel2003@...> wrote: looking to ask anyone who has or has had glofish danios.i would like to
ask some questions before i get some. schroedel2003@...
thank you






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21293 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Hydra!
Hey everyone,

I've got a 5g tank on my desk here at work with 5 Neon Tetras in it. I've got some live plants and a few pieces of driftwood in the tank. I'm noticing that the driftwood has hydra all over it (it's a fairly new setup cycled with gravel from my 100g tank at home - which has no hydra, so I'm assuming it came from the blasted driftwood). Is there a way to get rid of the hydra without harming the fish or plants? Am I going to have to totally tear down the tank? The hydra are actually starting to stick to the glass now, so I'm sure they're in the substrate and everywhere else... :(

Thanks in advance for the help.

Sean

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21294 From: Pickles Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Hydra!
Here's some info on hydra I looked up ( go to website to read all of it...)..at
first all I could find was info on the Greek Isle...or the monster in Greek
Mythology...lol.... I don't think in my years dealing with fish, that I have
encountered them.....I learned a lot too! .....Mary
http://members.optushome.com.au/chelmon/Hydra.htm

Hydra can be introduced to the aquarium with live foods, snails, driftwood, plants,
or water collected from natural freshwater areas. Most hydra in a normal aquarium go
unnoticed, but within the confines of a small fry-raising tank, these little pests
can be deadly, and can ingest a tankful of newly hatched rainbowfish larvae in less
than a week. Hydra can kill small fry up to a size of around 10 to 15 mm. Newly
hatched larvae of rainbowfishes and blue-eyes are bite-size for the average hydra.
Larger fry can often pull away from the stinging tentacles, but will usually die in
any case. Fry over 15 mm, however, really don't seem to have any problems. Hydra also
competes with the fry for the live food thereby reducing growth rates.

Hydra only seems to appear in fry tanks being fed brine shrimp nauplii or similar
live foods. They don't seem to appear in fry tanks that are fed primarily a dry or
liquid diet. However, once you start feeding large amounts of brine shrimp nauplii,
it isn't long before hydra appear, often in enormous numbers. They are usually tan or
brown in colour and are not readily seen against a background of natural coloured
gravel or on plants. Usually you don't notice them unless a heavy infestation has
become established.

Most hydra are about 0.25 to 2.5 cm long and are fully capable of moving from place
to place and are often seen free-swimming (floating) on the water surface in the
aquarium. They probably remain in a free-swimming stage until they find a spot suited
to their needs.

Finding a few hydras in your regular aquarium doesn't mean that the aquarium is
unhealthy. Actually, it means you have a normal healthy aquarium, since hydra will
not live in water of poor quality. A well-maintained aquarium will not provide enough
food for a large number of hydras so keep the tank clean and you will probably never
know that they are there. The best way to avoid introducing them into fry-growing
tanks is to sterilise the tank and filter equipment with a chlorine solution before
they are used.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean C. Figueroa" <scfigueroa@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 4:49 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hydra!


> Hey everyone,
>
> I've got a 5g tank on my desk here at work with 5 Neon Tetras in it. I've got some
> live plants and a few pieces of driftwood in the tank. I'm noticing that the
> driftwood has hydra all over it (it's a fairly new setup cycled with gravel from my
> 100g tank at home - which has no hydra, so I'm assuming it came from the blasted
> driftwood). Is there a way to get rid of the hydra without harming the fish or
> plants? Am I going to have to totally tear down the tank? The hydra are actually
> starting to stick to the glass now, so I'm sure they're in the substrate and
> everywhere else... :(
>
> Thanks in advance for the help.
>
> Sean
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21295 From: schroedel2003 Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
thanks harry i have read all the info from this sight but looking for someone with personal experience.i have heard that the pictures are much better then the real thing and that they are a weaker fish.

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: Try this. Copy and paste and remove any extra spaces.

http://www.glofish.com/about.asp

Harry

schroedel2003 <schroedel2003@...> wrote: looking to ask anyone who has or has had glofish danios.i would like to
ask some questions before i get some. schroedel2003@...
thank you





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---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21296 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Putting the plant in potting soil is not a bad idea. The problem with potting soil, in most instances, is that it does not stay on the pot. If you keep it in the potting soil, you can cover the soil with gravel. This should do a pretty good job of containing it, unless you have fish that are diggers. The problem you have with your plant may be transplant shock. If the water conditions are too much different from where the plant was kept previously, this could affect the plant.

What you may want to do is to keep the plant potted. Your gravel depth is not enough to keep the plant without the pot. If you are to use sand, it would need to be course sand, say a #1 gravel (bird grit), rather than beach sand. The beach type sand would compact too tightly for the health of the plant. However, I would not move it until it has recovered and had time to grow.

Depending on your LFS, you may be able to get an aquatic fertilizer there. If so, follow the instructions, and do not overdose.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amazon sword plant dying

Hubby bought an Amazon sword plant; it was in one those tiny plastic
pots with some kind of cottony-type stuff around the roots, and hubby
put it, as is, in the aquarium and it's dying. He removed it, took it
out of the little pot, and planted in regular potting soil in water in
a small fish bowl (sans fish). I told him potting soil wouldn't work,
and it hasn't. I browsed on-line briefly and found one site that said
you need to remove the plant from the tiny pot, remove the cottony
stuff from the roots, and plant in substrate of sand, plus add some
kind of fertilizer(?) I told hubby but of course he doesn't want to
admit he didn't know what he was doing. Can you be real specific about
what I should do to save this plant? All four of our aquariums are
established and have about half to three-quarters of an inch of
gravel. If I need to put sand in for the plant, how do I do that, just
put it on top of the gravel? Can I get the fertilizer in the LFS?
Your advice please.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21297 From: Patti M. Date: 3/9/2007
Subject: Re: new established tank with a Nemo in it
Hi, thanks. I went to the LFS today and bought 1 - 5 gal tote for top off water and they will lend me 10 more 5 gallon totes Sunday. I just have to have back by end of day. This is the store that is going out of business. The other in town, sells RO etc. too but gave no suggestion as to where to get portable totes.

This store also told me, since "Nemo" has lived two years without another clown fish, then he WILL be aggressive forever with a new clown fish put in the tank.........

The purpose was only to give him company. So, I guess we will give him a different type of fish and maybe he will get along with it.

I am so excited to have salt water fish. No Corals for now (yep, that is what they all say hugh! LOL!). Just the bare basics.....beautiful fish!

I cannot wait to see if I get a skimmer, what kind of filter etc. with the tank and stand. I called today, no one home......tank and Nemo aren't mine until they are in my possession......Sunday.

Thanks for the info Susan.
Patti M

Susan Mrenna <mail4sdm2@...> wrote:
You can take all the water. Use new rubbermaid containers or trash can. Line
them with a new plain garbage bag (unscented). Put the containers in your
vehicle. Make sure everything is arranged so the tank will fit too. Use your
fish bucket to carry the water from the house to the car to fill the
containers. Siphon the last bit of water. You will probably want to scoop
the substrate out last as it is heavy left in the tank. Close the bags of
water. Water sloshes. Closing the bags helps to contain it. The fish can
ride in a rubbermaid or better yet in a cooler to help maintain temperature.
When home get it put back together as soon as possible. I just moved a 30
gal. freshwater tank this way and it did work. Susan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21299 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Ich update...
Hi All,

Well, Sun (male betta) has been free of ich for 3 days now.
I have continued to do the PWC and add salt though to get
any of the ich that might still remain. He is back to acting
normal and very active. I want to add the Melafix to the water
to help his fins as much as possible. Lenny talked about it
briefly in a Fin Rot thread. I know it's not fin rot but the
melafix might help some.

One of my cory's has lost an eye. I don't know how. I checked
over the tank to make sure there aren't any sharp corners or
protruding edges and don't see anything. Would Melafix benefit
him since it is a mild antibacterial? The three new cory's I
got are all really busy and swim the tank constantly, up and
down. They are fun to watch interact. They also do a good job
cleaning the food up.

Back to work now. I hope everyone has a good weekend! Thanks
again for the info on ich.

Traci





Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21300 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ich update...
While MelaFix is not an anti-ich treatment, it should aid the fish in
healing up from the "injuries" caused by the ich parasite... BUT...DO NOT
overmedicate your fish since that can be stressful to them as well. The
Melafix will help with preventing any secondary bacterial infection to the
eye injury on the cory too.

Continue doing the salt/heat treatment until you have completed the cycle to
be certain none of the ich remains. Then do your series of 25% PWC's to get
the water back to "fresh" water.

If you still see damage caused by the ich parasite, then you could start a 3
day or 7 day MelaFix treatment.

Only start new meds if you are absolutely sure they need it.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 8:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ich update...

Hi All,

Well, Sun (male betta) has been free of ich for 3 days now.
I have continued to do the PWC and add salt though to get any of the ich
that might still remain. He is back to acting normal and very active. I want
to add the Melafix to the water to help his fins as much as possible. Lenny
talked about it briefly in a Fin Rot thread. I know it's not fin rot but the
melafix might help some.

One of my cory's has lost an eye. I don't know how. I checked over the tank
to make sure there aren't any sharp corners or protruding edges and don't
see anything. Would Melafix benefit him since it is a mild antibacterial?
The three new cory's I got are all really busy and swim the tank constantly,
up and down. They are fun to watch interact. They also do a good job
cleaning the food up.

Back to work now. I hope everyone has a good weekend! Thanks again for the
info on ich.

Traci





Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21301 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: glofish/Schroedel2003
The ones I have seen in LFS are smaller than the regular ones. Some are in
poor condition however that is usually true of any species of fish in the
typical LFS, most will be ok and some weaker than the whole. I understand if
you have the proper lighting that the colors can be very prominent and I
have seen a few that have the proper lighting. Nice looking fish but not
worth the money being asked for them. If you don't have the proper lighting
there is really nothing spectacular about them, imo. The orange ones look
more like a solid sherbert color to me.

On 09 Mar 2007 18:47:37 -0800, schroedel2003 <schroedel2003@...>
wrote:
>
> thanks harry i have read all the info from this sight but looking for
> someone with personal experience.i have heard that the pictures are much
> better then the real thing and that they are a weaker fish.
>
> harry perry <harryfisherman@... <harryfisherman%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> Try this. Copy and paste and remove any extra spaces.
>
> http://www.glofish.com/about.asp
>
> Harry
>
> schroedel2003 <schroedel2003@... <schroedel2003%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> looking to ask anyone who has or has had glofish danios.i would like to
> ask some questions before i get some. schroedel2003@...<schroedel2003%40yahoo.com>
> thank you
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21302 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Amazon sword plant dying
Thanks so much for the advice -- I'll visit the LFS today.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "quietari" <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> Amazon swords need a good substrate and good lighting. They are less
> c02 dependent than other plants, so i think you can get by without a
> c02 injection system. However, you should make sure your lighting is
> adequate and consistent.
>
> You can find fertilizer at a LFS that carrys aquatic plant supplies.
> Most will carry the plants, but won't have much for c02 systems,
> reaction chambers, ceramic diffusers, fertilizers...it's really hit and
> miss. I think in the database section there are recipes for DIY
> fertilizer, i am sure google is full of information about DIY stuff as
> well. Your plant will need at least 2 inches of fertilizer, and odds
> are you will need to, eventually, add liquid fertilzer to replenish
> nutrients. Adding 'sand' or such to the fertilizer is a bit trickey,
> because sand comes in a lot of different varieties. Usually what is
> suggested for aquatic plants is course river sand, its grains are large
> enough to allow growth, but not abrasive to harm the plant. Other sand
> should be avoided, like superfine sand. It compacts so much that it
> will inhibit plant growth. I think if you are going to buy an over-the-
> counter fertilizer you wont need to worry about adding anything to it.
>
> I would strongly suggest keeping the plant in a pot. They are known
> as "tank busters" because of how big they can grow. Amazon swords dont
> have the speed of say, hornwort, that can grow a half inch or more a
> day, but given the right circumstances it will grow very large and
> dominate other plants and root systems. Also, if propagation is ever
> desired, it will be easier to do (by cutting it in half) if you do not
> have to pull up an entire plant's root system (clouding the water) and
> replanting the root system (clouding the water even more).
>
> That cottony stuff should be removed as much as possible without
> damaging the roots. Plants like dwarf hairgrass or baby tears may have
> to find a root system to remove completely. I don't suspect your
> amazong sword's roots are that fine or brittle for that to be an
> issue. You can remove most of it by hand and use tweezers for the
> harder to remove parts. Also use that as an opportunity to remove any
> dead or dying leaves. Live plants require regular upkeep, which should
> be done before the routine water change (that way you can use your
> siphon to suck up the snipped leaves)
>
> The addition of living plants to a tank system can take some getting
> used to, and shouldn't be viewed as something that you can just set it
> and forget it. However i do not think i could ever go back to not
> having plants in a tank, they just add so much to the aesthetic value,
> not to mention how much all my fish\frogs\shrimp love them.
>
> Oh yea, on a side note...keep an eye on snails. Many live plants will
> have snail eggs or baby snails in them. You can soak the plant in a
> solution to kill the snails, or you can rely on fish to eat them (not
> all will though). It is something to keep an eye on, but nothing you
> need to worry about. I added some yoyo loaches to my tank, and in
> addition to the fun i have watching them play with each other, they
> will also feast on any young snails you have.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hubby bought an Amazon sword plant; it was in one those tiny plastic
> > pots with some kind of cottony-type stuff around the roots, and hubby
> > put it, as is, in the aquarium and it's dying. He removed it, took it
> > out of the little pot, and planted in regular potting soil in water in
> > a small fish bowl (sans fish). I told him potting soil wouldn't work,
> > and it hasn't. I browsed on-line briefly and found one site that said
> > you need to remove the plant from the tiny pot, remove the cottony
> > stuff from the roots, and plant in substrate of sand, plus add some
> > kind of fertilizer(?) I told hubby but of course he doesn't want to
> > admit he didn't know what he was doing. Can you be real specific about
> > what I should do to save this plant? All four of our aquariums are
> > established and have about half to three-quarters of an inch of
> > gravel. If I need to put sand in for the plant, how do I do that, just
> > put it on top of the gravel? Can I get the fertilizer in the LFS?
> > Your advice please.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21303 From: Eileen Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Hello--KY--I'm new
Hi Everyone,

I'm pretty new to the fishtank hobby and it took me awhile to get my
tank going.

Does anyone know anything about aquatic frogs? I'm interested in the
African Dwarf Frog.

Are they difficult to care for? Can they live in a tank with other
fish?

Thanks for the help...

Eileen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21304 From: Elaine Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hello--KY--I'm new
Hi Eileen,
I had several of the dwarf frogs but they would disappear in just a
day or two so evidently something in my tank was getting them. :(
But I have two albino african clawed frogs in a different tank. They
are young yet but still bigger than the dwarfs and are doing great. They are
in with a variety of other fish. They are not difficult at all... they love
shrimp pellets the best.
Elaine



----- Original Message -----
From: "Eileen" <Eileen2005@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello--KY--I'm new



Hi Everyone,

I'm pretty new to the fishtank hobby and it took me awhile to get my
tank going.

Does anyone know anything about aquatic frogs? I'm interested in the
African Dwarf Frog.

Are they difficult to care for? Can they live in a tank with other
fish?

Thanks for the help...

Eileen




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21305 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Ich update...
Ok, I'll hold off on the Melafix until after I get the
water back to normal and then see how Sun looks. I'll
add some to the cory's tank so he won't get an infection
in his eye socket. Thank you, Lenny. As always, I appreciate
your help and I know my fish do to. :)

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> While MelaFix is not an anti-ich treatment, it should aid the fish in
> healing up from the "injuries" caused by the ich parasite... BUT...DO NOT
> overmedicate your fish since that can be stressful to them as well. The
> Melafix will help with preventing any secondary bacterial infection to the
> eye injury on the cory too.
>
> Continue doing the salt/heat treatment until you have completed the cycle to
> be certain none of the ich remains. Then do your series of 25% PWC's to get
> the water back to "fresh" water.
>
> If you still see damage caused by the ich parasite, then you could start a 3
> day or 7 day MelaFix treatment.
>
> Only start new meds if you are absolutely sure they need it.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@...
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 8:15 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ich update...
>
> Hi All,
>
> Well, Sun (male betta) has been free of ich for 3 days now.
> I have continued to do the PWC and add salt though to get any of the ich
> that might still remain. He is back to acting normal and very active. I want
> to add the Melafix to the water to help his fins as much as possible. Lenny
> talked about it briefly in a Fin Rot thread. I know it's not fin rot but the
> melafix might help some.
>
> One of my cory's has lost an eye. I don't know how. I checked over the tank
> to make sure there aren't any sharp corners or protruding edges and don't
> see anything. Would Melafix benefit him since it is a mild antibacterial?
> The three new cory's I got are all really busy and swim the tank constantly,
> up and down. They are fun to watch interact. They also do a good job
> cleaning the food up.
>
> Back to work now. I hope everyone has a good weekend! Thanks again for the
> info on ich.
>
> Traci
>
>
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21306 From: Rich Date: 3/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hello--KY--I'm new
Hi Eileen, Try this group dwarfaficanfrogs@yahoogroups.com You can
learn alot from them. Hope this helps.
Rich





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eileen" <Eileen2005@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm pretty new to the fishtank hobby and it took me awhile to get my
> tank going.
>
> Does anyone know anything about aquatic frogs? I'm interested in the
> African Dwarf Frog.
>
> Are they difficult to care for? Can they live in a tank with other
> fish?
>
> Thanks for the help...
>
> Eileen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21307 From: rjtroon Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Red Tail Shark
A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe
is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
probably about 2" long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21308 From: Patti M. Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Nemo Update
Hi, just a note to let you know that "Nemo" made the trip okay, and is seeming to be quite happy in his new temporary 10 gallon tank. He has a piece of live rock in it, "his water from his tank", a heater, set on 75, owner had kept it at 74 before......and he has a light and 10 gallon HOB. He seems to like the light, and his reflection on the tank bottom......I didn' t put in sand for the night.

The tank water REAKS! I cannot keep this smelly stuff here for long........eek!

There is live rock in the tank......as well as some kind of substrate from Hawaii, ground shells maybe, I have emailed previous owner for more detail. There is red algae in the tank (and green) and the previous owner said not to get rid of the muck.... that it will calm down and the water will turn clear, etc...... I need to balance the stand in my room here, and clean the tank before filling back with water. Tomorrow I guess, but I need to find out about this substrate. He said it was good, to keep as it helped keep the PH in balance.

But this water and stuff is gross!.....there is a giant conk shell in the aquarium, I think it is slimy......

anyway.........I put the live rock in the big tank and water on them, but I still have the rest of the aquarium water in jugs......not sure at this point what to do.......stinky stuff........I really didn't want to put nemo back in there......but the 10 gallon tank isn't good either, the water is for the most part clear in it, his old water. I also got a 20 gallon tank in this deal so I could clean that up and get nemo in there tomorrow night.....temporarily.

I wish my USB cord worked, I would send pics.......it isn't though, as of this morning

I got the big salt water testing kit with this setup and it has like NR3 1, 2, and #3 bottles for that group. I have to read directions, but I think Nemo will be fine for tonite, and the live rocks will live (maybe), but I need to get the water circulating in the big tank soon.

I also got a single bio wheel HOB and another HOB for the 20 gallon. I just have the biowheel sitting in the stagnant water until tomorrow night....I could put in with Nemo in the 10 gallon tank, now that I figured out how to put in the biowheel, this man was using it for the 55 gallon tank, with some kind of PRIZM Energizer skimmer by Red Sea. Getting ready to look that up.
that is it! pretty exciting!

Night!
Patti M


---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21309 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/11/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Red Tail Sharks get way too big for a 10G tank. Here is a good profile on
them. http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Epalzeorhynchus_bicolor.html

They can also become very aggressive and territorial.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjtroon
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 9:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe is
about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that currently
houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is probably about 2"
long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?





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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21310 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark in my 55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your limit in a ten.....

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: rjtroon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark


A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe
is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
probably about 2" long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21311 From: Richard Troon Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look forward to other opinions.

What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten gallon tank shouldn't be too small.


----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:21:55 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark in my 55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your limit in a ten.....

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: rjtroon
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe
is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
probably about 2" long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21312 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
In a message dated 3/12/2007 10:17:43 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rjtroon@... writes:

Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
forward to other opinions.

What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
gallon tank shouldn't be too small.




Well for one thing, the inch per gallon rule has only ever been valid as an
*extremely rough* approximation. So many things factor into the appropriate
size tank for any particular fish, and inches in length are only a tiny part of
it. Two inches of oscar are in no way, shape or form equal to 2" of platy.
One must also consider girth, behavioral factors, activity level, eating
habits, growth rate, adult size, disposition...I'm sure there are more but those
are just off the top of my head. :)

The example I like to give people that seems easy for them to grasp uses dog
breeds. The mastiff is an extremely massive dog (27+" tall, 120+ lbs with
over 200 lbs not uncommon). The border collie is a medium sized dog (18-22"
tall, 25-45 lbs). However the border collie requires *many times* the exercise
that a mastiff requires. Despite the huge size difference, the mastiff is
actually much better suited to living in a house with a small yard (small tank
<G>) than a border collie is because of their more sedentary activity level.
Border collies are the tangs of the dog world. <VBG>

I have to agree with the people who are saying that the shark is
inappropriate for a 10 gallon tank.

Kiesha C
<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21313 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: New member questions
Hello,
I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
aquariums.
We would like to raise crayfish such as http://www.LobsterPond.com and
I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
tank for the babies to hide in?
This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank I was
thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
metal kill them?
If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Minnesota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21314 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
The one inch per gallon (fish-killing rule, IMO) rule that is so pervasive
in the hobby ONLY works for small peaceful tropical fish that stay under
three inches as full grown adults. This "one inch rule" is probably
responsible for more fish deaths in the hobby than all of the newbie
mistakes ever made.

Here is a better set of simple guidelines for minimum water volume needs.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Check http://fish.mongabay.com for future fish before buying them so you
will have a better idea of their minimum needs and water parameters.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, pictures and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Richard Troon
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
forward to other opinions.

What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
gallon tank shouldn't be too small.


----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:21:55 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark in my
55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your limit in a
ten.....

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: rjtroon
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe is
about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that currently
houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is probably about 2"
long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21315 From: quietari Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
It's a general rule, best left to be used for stocking a tank with
small fish. Think about the difference, in a ten gallon tank,
between one 10 inch fish, and ten 1 inch fish. That 10 inch fish
isn't going to be to happy. It's also a bad rule imo, unless the ten
1 inch fish create some sort of utopian community (like schooling
fish). im a habitual 'understocker' because of years of dealing with
the trouble that ratio has caused.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Richard Troon <rjtroon@...> wrote:
>
> Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small.
I'll look forward to other opinions.
>
> What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that,
the ten gallon tank shouldn't be too small.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:21:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
>
> I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark
in my 55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your
limit in a ten.....
>
> Cynthia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rjtroon
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
>
> A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I
believe
> is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.
>
> The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
> currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
> probably about 2" long.
>
> If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy
little
> community or am I asking for trouble?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21316 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
If you think about the inch per gallon thing for long, you'll see how silly
it is. Is a Guppy the same size as a Dwarf Gourami? They are roughly the
same length, but a Dwarf Gourami is obviously a larger fish. An adult RTB
Shark is the same length as two Guppies, is that the same amount of mass?
That's one of the problems with inch per gallon, it's taken as a measure of
length only, and fish aren't all the same shape. Another problem is
temperament. According to inch per gallon, A male Blue Gourami and a Convict
Cichlid could live in a ten gallon. In practice, they would kill each other.
A small school of Zebra Danios could live in a ten gallon, according to IPG,
but these animals are big swimmers who need a tank 3 times that size to be
happy. The inch per gallon 'rule' doesn't hold up, unless you are measuring
small Tetras and Livebearers, and even then, it only works as a rough
estimate of the maximum amount of fish you should consider

If you want to add more fish to the ten, get a few more Cories. Cories are
schoolers (another factor inch per gallon doesn't address) and need the
companionship of their own kind.


On 12 Mar 2007 08:16:56 -0700, Richard Troon <rjtroon@...> wrote:
>
> Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
> forward to other opinions.
>
> What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
> gallon tank shouldn't be too small.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21317 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Hi Roxanne and welcome to the group.

Great to hear that you've kept your goldfish alive for so long. Hopefully
they'll be around another 10+ years.

As far as Koi go, they needs hundreds of gallons per Koi since they grow so
HUGE and live so long... 100+ years... so unless you have plans for a REALLY
BIG aquarium, you would be better off thinking of another pond for the Koi.

Galvanized would probably be OK as long as it's stable but there are
instances where it starts to rust and then it might not be so good. The
plastic stock tanks (water troughs) would probably be better. That's just a
guess on my part though.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member questions

Hello,
I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
aquariums.
We would like to raise crayfish such as http://www.LobsterPond.com and I
would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the tank
for the babies to hide in?
This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank I was
thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized metal
kill them?
If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Minnesota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21318 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Hi Lenny,
Thank you for your response and patience.
I had an 18 year old goldfish with scoliosis that was purchased as a
feeder fish but he just up and died last winter.
His deformity was so pronounced his name was S.
The 15 year old has glacoma in one eye.
I've been feeding them (one youngster that is only 4) organic baby
lettuce besides regular food and they like it a lot.
On question of koi. I know they get very large. Do they grow like
goldfish according to tank size?
I'm getting a 75 gallon soon and thought that might support at least
two koi.
Our winters can dip as low as 30F so I don't really want to take a
chance on an outdoor pond.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21319 From: Richard Troon Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Thank you for the responses, although you guys suck at telling a guy what he wants to hear (LOL)!

For the record, I am not looking to add more fish to the ten gallon. I am looking for a home for this Red-Tail shark and the ten gallon is all I have available (the 46 is full, the 125 has a rainbow shark, the 20 has babies, and the 55 is all cichlids).

I talked to a fish store guy today who told me that it might not be the greatest situation long term, but the ten should work for quite some time because they aren't extremely fast growers.

Is there anyone out there who wants to tell me to go for it???




----- Original Message ----
From: deus-ex-maria <deus.ex.maria@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 11:39:23 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

If you think about the inch per gallon thing for long, you'll see how silly
it is. Is a Guppy the same size as a Dwarf Gourami? They are roughly the
same length, but a Dwarf Gourami is obviously a larger fish. An adult RTB
Shark is the same length as two Guppies, is that the same amount of mass?
That's one of the problems with inch per gallon, it's taken as a measure of
length only, and fish aren't all the same shape. Another problem is
temperament. According to inch per gallon, A male Blue Gourami and a Convict
Cichlid could live in a ten gallon. In practice, they would kill each other.
A small school of Zebra Danios could live in a ten gallon, according to IPG,
but these animals are big swimmers who need a tank 3 times that size to be
happy. The inch per gallon 'rule' doesn't hold up, unless you are measuring
small Tetras and Livebearers, and even then, it only works as a rough
estimate of the maximum amount of fish you should consider

If you want to add more fish to the ten, get a few more Cories. Cories are
schoolers (another factor inch per gallon doesn't address) and need the
companionship of their own kind.

On 12 Mar 2007 08:16:56 -0700, Richard Troon <rjtroon@yahoo. com> wrote:
>
> Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
> forward to other opinions.
>
> What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
> gallon tank shouldn't be too small.
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21320 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
That's a common misconception about goldfish and all other fish. Not giving
them enough tank/water space to properly grow to their full adult size is
called "Stunting" and causes many, many health problems and takes years off
of their lives.

ALL fish can and do suffer from stunting in aquariums that are too small for
them... goldfish being the most abused... since they are meant to get really
big and live a LONG time but most die way too early due to stunting and poor
water quality issues from being in too small of a tank.

As part of their attempts to survive, fish excrete a hormone into the water
and when this hormone level reaches a certain level, the fish "stunt" their
growth. While this seems like a good idea, it's now known that the stunting
also causes stress which then causes many other health issues... including
an early death.

Several scientific studies have been done for the aqua-culture industry and
they are coming up with solutions such as massive water turn-over to
constantly flush out the hormones so the fish never "stunt" themselves and
grow to full size. This has also been replicated in small aquariums where
people with free well water hooked up plumbing to have a constant supply of
fresh water flowing into the tank and then overflowing to a drain line. I
believe someone had 5 oscars in a 55G tank and they all grew to a large
size... which would not have happened in a 55G tank that only had occasional
partial water changes like a typical aquarium.

Now.. back to your Koi tank. 75G is not enough water for even one koi to
live it's life in. You would be better off with a pond. Your outdoor
temperature is not a problem. Koi and long bodied goldfish can over-winter
in a pond even if the top freezes over, as long as there is at least a hole
in the ice for outgasing of CO2, etc. If the pond is dug into the ground
24" or more, the bottom of the pond would stay much warmer... kept warm by
the surrounding earth temperature of around 68F. You would quit feeding the
fish in the fall when the water temp gets down to the mid 50's and then not
feed them again until the temps get back up in the spring. Koi and
long-bodied goldfish over-winter in ponds like this all over... in places
that get much colder than 30F.

Here's a bunch of articles on ponds.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/index.html The section called
"The Seasons" has several articles on overwintering and preparing your pond
for winter. If you did the pond and then decided to overwinter the fish
inside, your 75G might be OK for short term use in that aspect. Other
people set up plastic kiddie pools in their garages for an indoor pond for
the winter.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 4:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member questions

Hi Lenny,
Thank you for your response and patience.
I had an 18 year old goldfish with scoliosis that was purchased as a feeder
fish but he just up and died last winter.
His deformity was so pronounced his name was S.
The 15 year old has glacoma in one eye.
I've been feeding them (one youngster that is only 4) organic baby lettuce
besides regular food and they like it a lot.
On question of koi. I know they get very large. Do they grow like
goldfish according to tank size?
I'm getting a 75 gallon soon and thought that might support at least two
koi.
Our winters can dip as low as 30F so I don't really want to take a chance
on an outdoor pond.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21321 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Hi Roxanne and welcome. I don't breed crayfish but I have one female
blue cray. I go to the following site when I need advice about crays:

http://bluecrayfish.com/


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
> aquariums.
> We would like to raise crayfish such as http://www.LobsterPond.com and
> I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
> If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
> tank for the babies to hide in?
> This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank I was
> thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
> metal kill them?
> If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
> appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
> Thanks much,
> Roxanne
> Minnesota
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21322 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Red Tail Shark
Sounds like you really want this fish, but I really wouldn't take the chance on him dying on you. Also, the size he is now, he will not be comfortable in a ten gallon, even in the short term, there won't be much room to roam around let alone develop a territory! Just my two cents, sorry!!!

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Troon
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark


Thank you for the responses, although you guys suck at telling a guy what he wants to hear (LOL)!

For the record, I am not looking to add more fish to the ten gallon. I am looking for a home for this Red-Tail shark and the ten gallon is all I have available (the 46 is full, the 125 has a rainbow shark, the 20 has babies, and the 55 is all cichlids).

I talked to a fish store guy today who told me that it might not be the greatest situation long term, but the ten should work for quite some time because they aren't extremely fast growers.

Is there anyone out there who wants to tell me to go for it???

----- Original Message ----
From: deus-ex-maria <deus.ex.maria@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 11:39:23 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

If you think about the inch per gallon thing for long, you'll see how silly
it is. Is a Guppy the same size as a Dwarf Gourami? They are roughly the
same length, but a Dwarf Gourami is obviously a larger fish. An adult RTB
Shark is the same length as two Guppies, is that the same amount of mass?
That's one of the problems with inch per gallon, it's taken as a measure of
length only, and fish aren't all the same shape. Another problem is
temperament. According to inch per gallon, A male Blue Gourami and a Convict
Cichlid could live in a ten gallon. In practice, they would kill each other.
A small school of Zebra Danios could live in a ten gallon, according to IPG,
but these animals are big swimmers who need a tank 3 times that size to be
happy. The inch per gallon 'rule' doesn't hold up, unless you are measuring
small Tetras and Livebearers, and even then, it only works as a rough
estimate of the maximum amount of fish you should consider

If you want to add more fish to the ten, get a few more Cories. Cories are
schoolers (another factor inch per gallon doesn't address) and need the
companionship of their own kind.

On 12 Mar 2007 08:16:56 -0700, Richard Troon <rjtroon@yahoo. com> wrote:
>
> Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
> forward to other opinions.
>
> What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
> gallon tank shouldn't be too small.
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21323 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Speaking of crayfish, I had a blue one for a long time, just died recently. I replaced her with a beige one with blue claws and can't find any information about them at all! Is there much difference between the blue and beige crawfish?

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley Reichard
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crayfish


Hi Roxanne and welcome. I don't breed crayfish but I have one female
blue cray. I go to the following site when I need advice about crays:

http://bluecrayfish.com/

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
> aquariums.
> We would like to raise crayfish such as http://www.LobsterPond.com and
> I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
> If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
> tank for the babies to hide in?
> This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank I was
> thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
> metal kill them?
> If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
> appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
> Thanks much,
> Roxanne
> Minnesota
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21324 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
If you are judging by volume of replies, a 10 gallon is way too small.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Richard Troon
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 11:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark



Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
forward to other opinions.

What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
gallon tank shouldn't be too small.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@sympatico
<mailto:fcouellet%40sympatico.ca> .ca>
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:21:55 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark in my
55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your limit in a
ten.....

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: rjtroon
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark

A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe
is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.

The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
probably about 2" long.

If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
community or am I asking for trouble?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
http://farechase. <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>
yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21325 From: Pickles Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
But, if its just for a short period of time...not its entire life it should be
ok...just make sure to do the water changes etc...I'll vote for you getting
it!...Mary

another thought...it might get along well with the other shark you have in the bigger
tank, I have had rainbows, red tails and blacks all in the same big tank...just a
thought...I forgot how big the tank was but if theres enough room there might not be
any problems...

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donna Ransome" <djransome@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark


> If you are judging by volume of replies, a 10 gallon is way too small.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Richard Troon
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 11:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
>
>
>
> Two people have weighed in saying the ten gallon is too small. I'll look
> forward to other opinions.
>
> What happened to the "one inch per gallon" rule? Following that, the ten
> gallon tank shouldn't be too small.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frederic Ouellet <fcouellet@sympatico
> <mailto:fcouellet%40sympatico.ca> .ca>
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 5:21:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
>
> I think the ten gallon is much too small. I have a red tailed shark in my
> 55, but he is about six inches now which would exceed your limit in a
> ten.....
>
> Cynthia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rjtroon
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2007 10:48 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Red Tail Shark
>
> A friend of mine wants to sell me his Red Tail Shark, which I believe
> is about 4-5 inches and he has had it for a couple of years or more.
>
> The only tank I have available is a little ten gallon tank that
> currently houses nothing except a small cory and a Kribensis that is
> probably about 2" long.
>
> If I put the shark in with these two fish, will I have a happy little
> community or am I asking for trouble?
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
> http://farechase. <http://farechase.yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097>
> yahoo.com/promo-generic-14795097
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21326 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Cold Climate Koi
Sigh, this looks like too much for me and I only cull what we can eat.
How to Winter Koi Outdoors in Minnesota Successfully
<http://www.plantkingdom.com/miscpages/koiwintering.htm>
I don't suppose there is a miniature koi?
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21327 From: CrazyforCritters Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: New fish: Flower Horn Cichlid
I was told (I think this is right) that she is a Super Red Double Z.
Whatever that means! Gotta look this up! She is about 12" long and even
prettier now that she has settled in! Within 2 hours she started making a
nest and her color got very vibrant!

What do you guys think? They easy keepers? The info. I found seemed like
they are, just can't have other fish with them....

Gayle

P.S. My son named her Madeline (Maddie for short) LOL.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21328 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
LOL.. Goldfish are "miniature koi". I'm sure there are other cold water
fish that are less expensive and easier to raise and do not need the
resources that Koi need. There is a forum called nanfa.com or nanfa.org...
North American Native Fish Association, that deals with people
keeping/raising "native fish". They might point you in the right direction.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, pictures and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer... and it's
FREE.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 8:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cold Climate Koi

Sigh, this looks like too much for me and I only cull what we can eat.
How to Winter Koi Outdoors in Minnesota Successfully
<http://www.plantkingdom.com/miscpages/koiwintering.htm>
I don't suppose there is a miniature koi?
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21329 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Okay, yes, goldfish are miniature koi and yes I need to get a copy of
"Fish for Dummies".
I think I don't know about different kinds of goldfish. Mine are flat
like carp (yes Lenny I do know they ARE carp, lol) but I like the koi
because they are colorful and shaped more like bullheads.
At one time I had one of the black goldfish with big eyes that ate out
of my hand and let me pet him.
I need to see if there are some hobby breeders around here as my
choice of places to buy are a couple of chain pet supply stores and
Walmart.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21330 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
You know, after I answered you before, I thought about the Sarasa Comet,
which does closely resemble a "mini-Koi". Two of them would still be
pushing the limits of a 75G tank but as long as you keep up with weekly 25%
PWC's, to keep the stunting hormone levels down, it might work for you.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 9:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cold Climate Koi

Okay, yes, goldfish are miniature koi and yes I need to get a copy of
"Fish for Dummies".
I think I don't know about different kinds of goldfish. Mine are flat
like carp (yes Lenny I do know they ARE carp, lol) but I like the koi
because they are colorful and shaped more like bullheads.
At one time I had one of the black goldfish with big eyes that ate out of
my hand and let me pet him.
I need to see if there are some hobby breeders around here as my choice of
places to buy are a couple of chain pet supply stores and Walmart.
Roxanne



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21331 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Hi Shirley,
Thanks for the welcome.
The kind of crayfish I want to raise get to be almost a foot long and
are raised for eating.
This is why I was wondering if anyone here successfully raised them.
Right now I am considering growing wild rice in the grow out
container. That should provide food and hiding places for the young and
when they molt.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21332 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: Stunting
Right now I have two goldfish in a 10 gallon tank. One is five and a
half inches and the other three and a half.
Week one and three I replace 50% of the water with fresh. Week two
and four I replace all the water.
Will this be enough to stop stunting?
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21333 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/12/2007
Subject: OT Group
I've been on a LOT of groups and I am on a lot but I just want to tell
you how nice you folks are and thank you for not making me feel stupid.
This group is a pearl among Yahoo groups.
Thank you,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21334 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: It's almost Spring
The ice is thawing and things are greening up at last. Can't wait to add new toys, plants and fish to the pond. Now is a great time to check on the health of your koi, check pumps, clean or replace filter mats, clean of the algae off the rocks, check and repair leaks. You can find articles and products for each of these topics on http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com There is an expanded books section and over 100 new products including hard to find items like Happy Fish Pond Palaces. Live koi and live plants arrive in just a few weeks so get your ponds ready for new additions.
Think Spring everyone, Gail


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21335 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
Goldfish are not miniature koi. The two are derived from different
species. Koi are meant to be viewed from the top only as befits their
status as pond fish. For the most part goldfish have been developed to
be viewed from the side, though some do need to be able to be viewed
from the top as well to fully appreciate them. This suits them as they
are tank fish. Koi have had their development based on color and
pattern. Gold fish have had their development driven by body and fin
shape, with color as a secondary consideration.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cold Climate Koi

Okay, yes, goldfish are miniature koi and yes I need to get a copy of
"Fish for Dummies".
I think I don't know about different kinds of goldfish. Mine are flat
like carp (yes Lenny I do know they ARE carp, lol) but I like the koi
because they are colorful and shaped more like bullheads.
At one time I had one of the black goldfish with big eyes that ate out
of my hand and let me pet him.
I need to see if there are some hobby breeders around here as my
choice of places to buy are a couple of chain pet supply stores and
Walmart.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21336 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Probably not. Either one of those fish are already too large for that size tank. You do not mention which variety of goldfish you have, but you should probably consider moving them to at lest a 55 gallon tank now.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Stunting

Right now I have two goldfish in a 10 gallon tank. One is five and a
half inches and the other three and a half.
Week one and three I replace 50% of the water with fresh. Week two
and four I replace all the water.
Will this be enough to stop stunting?
Roxanne




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21337 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Roxanne, In following the replies you've been getting on your recent
posts, it appears most of them have been answered either quite
satisfactory or not at all. I have noted your question pertaining to
your galvanized stock tank has not yet been addressed. Note that
galvanized steel is toxic to aquatic life and invertibrates would be
the first to feel these effects.

While the subject of Koi has been nicely covered, I would just like
to make you aware of their potential size of up to 30" to 36", which
further bears out their need for a pond environment. Too, they can
easily grow 6" in a season. In addition to the colorful Sarassa
Comets previously mentioned, you might want to consider the Shubunkin
(Calico) Comet if you're planning a pond. These two color varieties
are also available in the Fantail for indoor use. Be advised that
the fancy varieties such as the Fantails, Veiltails, Moors and other
are not as hardy as the Comets and are not advised for pond use. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know
about
> aquariums.
> We would like to raise crayfish such as
http://www.LobsterPond.com and
> I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
> If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
> tank for the babies to hide in?
> This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank
I was
> thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
> metal kill them?
> If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
> appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
> Thanks much,
> Roxanne
> Minnesota
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21338 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Hi Roxanne, Just wanted to mention that ordinarily it is not advised
to do 100% water changes ("replace all the water"), only as this could
be considered a drastic change in the fishes' environment medium,
possibly differring to a lessor or greater degree from the chemistry of
their present water. However, since this appears to be their regular
regimin, they are obvious used to the chemistry of the fresher water as
their environment.

The one possible drawback is that if the tank had ever been cycled at
any time in the past, it may well not be so at this time, having very
little "food" (ammonia, nitrite) for the development of any large
bacterial populations. If this maintenance procedure is continued,
there should be no problem, but keep in mind that if these large water
changes are relaxed (as when you might go on vacation), serious ammonia
issued may develop at such times unless the changes are reduced
gradually as that time approaches or unless you can have someone to
continue with large changes then.

I still dislike 100% "raw" water changes from a tap (municipal treated
water), and would prefer 85% to 90% water changes weekly rather than
the method you're using, unless you have a well water source. This
will go a long way in preventing stunting, but the fish will need
larger quarters as they grow, just of a physical necessity. Depending
on how long you keep the fish in the 10 gallon tank (and how big they
get), you will find that at some point you'll need to start doing more
frequent water changes than just once a week; monitoring the ammonmia
and nitrite levels will tell you when. The larger tank (as has been
mentioned), sooner than later, is advised. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Right now I have two goldfish in a 10 gallon tank. One is five and
a
> half inches and the other three and a half.
> Week one and three I replace 50% of the water with fresh. Week two
> and four I replace all the water.
> Will this be enough to stop stunting?
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21339 From: joe t Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
There's a debate going on here about koi and goldfish being the same. Well, if I may put in my two cents worth here, both of the debaters is right in their own way. The koi and the goldfish are the same in the sense that they both belong to the carp family. They aren't the same in the sense that the koi were meant for the pond and the goldfish was meant for the tank or aquarium.

But let's not get carried away with this tank size business. Many people can't have large tanks for one reason or the other. While someone may want a goldfish or two and only have room for a 10 gallon tank that's not such a tragedy. Of course, we should have pity on the goldfish and not cramp them too much, but for the purposes of keeping a child happy to have a goldfish why worry about stunting?

My elderly aunt was lonely and had a goldfish in a large bowl as a pet. I know, you fish keepers hear bowl and you cringe, but that's all she had room for. It made her happy. What was I gonna do, go tell her she couldn't have the fish cause she didn't have room for a tank? You get the point I'm trying to make?

Now if you want to get into the hobby full swing, then yes, get the right equipment or you're going to fail. Especially if you want to breed them.

BTW, my aunt's goldfish lived for about 8 years. Got to a pretty good size, too. :o)

joe t


---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21340 From: miss_america_ohio Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Hi,
Today morning when I went to switch on the Aquarium Light, I found
2 male shubunkin goldfish were following one of the female shubunkin
goldfish in the aquarium. On observing closely I saw that the goldfish
was laying eggs . As this is the first time, That I am breeding
goldfish, Please advice me what to do next.

thanks for your help
Anita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21341 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
I was being rhetorical by calling them "mini-koi". Calico, Sarasa and other
goldfish are the closest thing to looking like Koi, that can be kept in a
reasonably sized indoor aquarium. I believe we were talking about a 75G
tank in the previous thread.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 4:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cold Climate Koi

Goldfish are not miniature koi. The two are derived from different species.
Koi are meant to be viewed from the top only as befits their status as pond
fish. For the most part goldfish have been developed to be viewed from the
side, though some do need to be able to be viewed from the top as well to
fully appreciate them. This suits them as they are tank fish. Koi have had
their development based on color and pattern. Gold fish have had their
development driven by body and fin shape, with color as a secondary
consideration.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 10:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cold Climate Koi

Okay, yes, goldfish are miniature koi and yes I need to get a copy of
"Fish for Dummies".
I think I don't know about different kinds of goldfish. Mine are flat
like carp (yes Lenny I do know they ARE carp, lol) but I like the koi
because they are colorful and shaped more like bullheads.
At one time I had one of the black goldfish with big eyes that ate out of
my hand and let me pet him.
I need to see if there are some hobby breeders around here as my choice of
places to buy are a couple of chain pet supply stores and Walmart.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21342 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
I understand and agree with your point on how some people can only have a
bowl sized container. They should get a Betta or other small fish that is
suitable for those conditions... not a goldfish. I can't agree with saying
it's OK for someone to intentionally have a pet in conditions that will cut
it's life short by 15+ years, or 2/3rd's of it's life. Just like I wouldn't
tell someone who lives in the city in a small apartment to get a pony.
Could they fit the pony in their apartment? Sure... but it's just not
something I would advise or agree with. If they have limited space, let
them get the right kind of pet that fits within that space.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 8:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish & Stunting Debate

There's a debate going on here about koi and goldfish being the same.
Well, if I may put in my two cents worth here, both of the debaters is right
in their own way. The koi and the goldfish are the same in the sense that
they both belong to the carp family. They aren't the same in the sense
that the koi were meant for the pond and the goldfish was meant for the tank
or aquarium.

But let's not get carried away with this tank size business. Many people
can't have large tanks for one reason or the other. While someone may want
a goldfish or two and only have room for a 10 gallon tank that's not such a
tragedy. Of course, we should have pity on the goldfish and not cramp them
too much, but for the purposes of keeping a child happy to have a goldfish
why worry about stunting?

My elderly aunt was lonely and had a goldfish in a large bowl as a pet. I
know, you fish keepers hear bowl and you cringe, but that's all she had
room for. It made her happy. What was I gonna do, go tell her she couldn't
have the fish cause she didn't have room for a tank? You get the point
I'm trying to make?

Now if you want to get into the hobby full swing, then yes, get the right
equipment or you're going to fail. Especially if you want to breed them.

BTW, my aunt's goldfish lived for about 8 years. Got to a pretty good
size, too. :o)

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21343 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Hi Ray,
Your response is timely as I will be gone for two weeks in May.
I can start cutting back on the water changes.
We do have very good well water here.
I got into a pattern with the fish and the plants. The water removed
from the aquarium is almost the same amount needed to water all my
tropical plants.
Thanks for your post.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21344 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Hi Ray,
After more research I have decided that I do not have the funds to
create and maintain a pond that is five feet deep in this climate.
The comets seem more feasible if I can make a shallower pond and
winter them over in the house.
I thought galvanized steel might be toxic to fish as it cannot be used
in companion bird cages.
The alternative will be a plastic swimming pool as the crayfish do not
need deep water but water that is greenish, clean and has plenty of
oxygen.
Wintering the breeders should not be much of a problem as we intend to
only keep two females and one male.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21345 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Stunting is common on goldfish that are in poor water quality. Having really really good filters is the key. I agree that they are way too big for your tank. They seem happy but they would really enjoy a larger tank to play in. Test your water very often and try to find a new larger tank. Good luck Gail

Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
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(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21346 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Cold Climate Koi
While koi and goldfish are related goldfish are not mini koi. There is a great section on chosing native pond fish in the master book of the watergarden. It's a really great resource and is far more detailed than fish for dummies. Good Luck, Gail

Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21347 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
changes, is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
populations of both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be
tricky. You'll need to keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels
through testing, and can expect the ammonia to spike in approximately
10 days with the nitrite spiking approximately another 10 days after
that.

This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need to
increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need to
keep tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
necessary. To ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing
your filtration (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by
adding a second filter if you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5"
goldfish in a 10 gallon tank should not be too much of a burden for it
yet though, so I think the process should go somewhat smoothly,
although still needing proper vigilance. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> Your response is timely as I will be gone for two weeks in May.
> I can start cutting back on the water changes.
> We do have very good well water here.
> I got into a pattern with the fish and the plants. The water
removed
> from the aquarium is almost the same amount needed to water all my
> tropical plants.
> Thanks for your post.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21348 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
If at all possible, see if you can get some filtration media (i.e. sponges or a bio wheel) from an established tank. You can use that to jump start the bacteria in your tank.


----- Original Message -----
From: Raymond Wetzel
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 4:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting


Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
changes, is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
populations of both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be
tricky. You'll need to keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels
through testing, and can expect the ammonia to spike in approximately
10 days with the nitrite spiking approximately another 10 days after
that.

This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need to
increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need to
keep tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
necessary. To ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing
your filtration (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by
adding a second filter if you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5"
goldfish in a 10 gallon tank should not be too much of a burden for it
yet though, so I think the process should go somewhat smoothly,
although still needing proper vigilance. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> Your response is timely as I will be gone for two weeks in May.
> I can start cutting back on the water changes.
> We do have very good well water here.
> I got into a pattern with the fish and the plants. The water
removed
> from the aquarium is almost the same amount needed to water all my
> tropical plants.
> Thanks for your post.
> Roxanne
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21349 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Just wanted to add that I don't mean for this process (cycling) to
sound like its going to be a breeze. These two fish can amount to a
fair fish load in your ten gallon tank, especially if you don't watch
it, and/or cut back too much all at once on the water changes; its
always tricky to cycle the tank with live fish, and keep them alive
throughout. Just keep on top of your test results to tell you what
actions are needed. Your 2nd filter could be a type with a bio-
wheel, for instance, which promotes a good growth of beneficial
bacteria. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
> changes, is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
> populations of both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be
> tricky. You'll need to keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite
levels
> through testing, and can expect the ammonia to spike in
approximately
> 10 days with the nitrite spiking approximately another 10 days
after
> that.
>
> This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need
to
> increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need
to
> keep tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
> necessary. To ease this transitional process, I'd recommend
increasing
> your filtration (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by
> adding a second filter if you see it become necessary. A 3" and a
5"
> goldfish in a 10 gallon tank should not be too much of a burden for
it
> yet though, so I think the process should go somewhat smoothly,
> although still needing proper vigilance. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> > Your response is timely as I will be gone for two weeks in May.
> > I can start cutting back on the water changes.
> > We do have very good well water here.
> > I got into a pattern with the fish and the plants. The water
> removed
> > from the aquarium is almost the same amount needed to water all my
> > tropical plants.
> > Thanks for your post.
> > Roxanne
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21350 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Hi Roxanne, If you can't swing a pond at this time, it would be best
to wait until you more comfortably could, rather than skimping with the
size just to have something and save money. By far, the most prevalent
regret that people make is not making their pond big enough in the
beginning, to suite their eventual likes or needs. You might as well
wait until its do-able. The most reasonable material to construct a
pond is with a flexible EDPM rubber liner in the excavation of your
choice. Up until recently, it was going for about 72 cents per square
foot; it may currently have increase slightly in price, I'm not sure.

You'll need to measure the length (ft.) + twice the maximum depth (ft.)
+ 1' (overlap -- 6" at each end) X the width (ft.) + twice the maximum
depth + 1' (overlap -- 6" at each side). I don't understand why you
feel you'd need a pond 5' deep though, unless you expect the ice to
freeze 3' thick. Keep in mind that these liners come in rolls in
widths of 5' increments, starting at 5.5', up to 50'. They are often
cut to length only in 5' increments as well. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> After more research I have decided that I do not have the funds to
> create and maintain a pond that is five feet deep in this climate.
> The comets seem more feasible if I can make a shallower pond and
> winter them over in the house.
> I thought galvanized steel might be toxic to fish as it cannot be
used
> in companion bird cages.
> The alternative will be a plastic swimming pool as the crayfish do
not
> need deep water but water that is greenish, clean and has plenty of
> oxygen.
> Wintering the breeders should not be much of a problem as we intend
to
> only keep two females and one male.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21351 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
If you have a coolish basement (55°F or a bit warmer), you can easily over winter as many fish as you have room for. All it takes is some 2x6's, some 2x4's, some liner to fit, and some filters. Get enough 2x6 lumber for the height you wish. Use the 2x4 lumber to hold it all together, throw in the liner and fill with water. If you can, use pond water. Fire up the filter(s), and when you are ready, move the fish in.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 12:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member questions

Hi Ray,
After more research I have decided that I do not have the funds to
create and maintain a pond that is five feet deep in this climate.
The comets seem more feasible if I can make a shallower pond and
winter them over in the house.
I thought galvanized steel might be toxic to fish as it cannot be used
in companion bird cages.
The alternative will be a plastic swimming pool as the crayfish do not
need deep water but water that is greenish, clean and has plenty of
oxygen.
Wintering the breeders should not be much of a problem as we intend to
only keep two females and one male.
Roxanne




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21352 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Ray,

I believe that Montana or Minnesota was mentioned in one of the posts in this thread, if I recollect correctly. One from a clime with warmer winters may start to wonder if 5' was deep enough, what with temperatures below zero for weeks at a time. (We have a real warm spell comin' up, says the weatherman. The highs for the next few days will be 3-5 below zero. A real warm-up!)


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 8:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member questions

Hi Roxanne, If you can't swing a pond at this time, it would be best
to wait until you more comfortably could, rather than skimping with the
size just to have something and save money. By far, the most prevalent
regret that people make is not making their pond big enough in the
beginning, to suite their eventual likes or needs. You might as well
wait until its do-able. The most reasonable material to construct a
pond is with a flexible EDPM rubber liner in the excavation of your
choice. Up until recently, it was going for about 72 cents per square
foot; it may currently have increase slightly in price, I'm not sure.

You'll need to measure the length (ft.) + twice the maximum depth (ft.)
+ 1' (overlap -- 6" at each end) X the width (ft.) + twice the maximum
depth + 1' (overlap -- 6" at each side). I don't understand why you
feel you'd need a pond 5' deep though, unless you expect the ice to
freeze 3' thick. Keep in mind that these liners come in rolls in
widths of 5' increments, starting at 5.5', up to 50'. They are often
cut to length only in 5' increments as well. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> After more research I have decided that I do not have the funds to
> create and maintain a pond that is five feet deep in this climate.
> The comets seem more feasible if I can make a shallower pond and
> winter them over in the house.
> I thought galvanized steel might be toxic to fish as it cannot be
used
> in companion bird cages.
> The alternative will be a plastic swimming pool as the crayfish do
not
> need deep water but water that is greenish, clean and has plenty of
> oxygen.
> Wintering the breeders should not be much of a problem as we intend
to
> only keep two females and one male.
> Roxanne
>





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21353 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member questions
Hi Ray,
The ice on the lakes here can easily get to 20 inches thick. That's
why I am concerned about the depth of a pond.
I would think that would be kind of hard to keep part of it open.
Iv'e been following the other advise and feel I need to get an aquatic
dictionary to understand some of the terms.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21354 From: gorsford Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
my name is Alex, I go to UCSD, so i am w/ a low budget. but it doesn't
spoil the fun.
I am getting a tank, and some plants to breed mollies as a starter.
Anyone in San Diego interested to hang out and show me where to go for
buying the fishes?
you know petco and petsmart don't have things that we want.
I want to get some Java moss. please help

Thanks
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21355 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Hi ALex,
Unfortunately I am in Northern California, but check out
_http://www.sandiegotropicalfish.com/_ (http://www.sandiegotropicalfish.com/) you just missed
their Spring Auction by two days, but check it out, I have heard they are an
active group.

Mike

In a message dated 3/13/2007 6:46:58 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kfsee0213@... writes:
my name is Alex, I go to UCSD, so i am w/ a low budget. but it doesn't
spoil the fun.
I am getting a tank, and some plants to breed mollies as a starter.
Anyone in San Diego interested to hang out and show me where to go for
buying the fishes?
you know petco and petsmart don't have things that we want.
I want to get some Java moss. please help

Thanks
Alex


<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21356 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish & Stunting Debate
Nice story, Joe, but, nevertheless, an adult goldfish needs about 30
gallons of water to do well. You can have two adults in a 55 (but not a
50). Talk about goldfish living 8 or 15 years like that is a long tome
for them is not really a good thing, considering they can have a life of
30-50 years when kept properly. The real fancy varieties have a shorter
life span, mainly due to the deformation of the body to achieve a
certain look. Your aunt's fish may have lived longer if you could have
found a 15 or 20 gallon tank, if not a 30, for her to keep it in (along
with a sturdier stand than was holding the bowl).


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 9:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish & Stunting Debate

There's a debate going on here about koi and goldfish being the same.
Well, if I may put in my two cents worth here, both of the debaters is
right in their own way. The koi and the goldfish are the same in the
sense that they both belong to the carp family. They aren't the same
in the sense that the koi were meant for the pond and the goldfish was
meant for the tank or aquarium.

But let's not get carried away with this tank size business. Many
people can't have large tanks for one reason or the other. While
someone may want a goldfish or two and only have room for a 10 gallon
tank that's not such a tragedy. Of course, we should have pity on the
goldfish and not cramp them too much, but for the purposes of keeping a
child happy to have a goldfish why worry about stunting?

My elderly aunt was lonely and had a goldfish in a large bowl as a pet.
I know, you fish keepers hear bowl and you cringe, but that's all she
had room for. It made her happy. What was I gonna do, go tell her she
couldn't have the fish cause she didn't have room for a tank? You get
the point I'm trying to make?

Now if you want to get into the hobby full swing, then yes, get the
right equipment or you're going to fail. Especially if you want to
breed them.

BTW, my aunt's goldfish lived for about 8 years. Got to a pretty good
size, too. :o)

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21357 From: gorsford Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Thx Mike
Do you buy fish or plant online?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21358 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
That would depend if you want a lot of fry or a few. With this time lag,
you are probably stuck with the latter. The eggs that have survived the
predation of the fish in the tank have a chance of hatching. Then the
fry need to survive another round of predation. The best thing you can
do now is to provide lots of cover for what ever young may appear to
help them survive the next round of predation. You may also wish to
remove the other fish to see what may develop.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of miss_america_ohio
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 5:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????

Hi,
Today morning when I went to switch on the Aquarium Light, I found
2 male shubunkin goldfish were following one of the female shubunkin
goldfish in the aquarium. On observing closely I saw that the goldfish
was laying eggs . As this is the first time, That I am breeding
goldfish, Please advice me what to do next.

thanks for your help
Anita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21359 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
The term "blue crayfish" is a common term for a variety of species
that are blue, but may be others colors too. A cray that is beige in
color may be a species of blue cray. I was just on that site I
recommended (bluecrayfish.com) and they had photos of a pink cray and
a cray that had both pink and blue coloring. That site is a really
good one and has a forum where you might find answers or you can post
questions. It also provides links to other sites about crays. Visit
bluecrayfish.com and I'm sure you'll find help and other resources there.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet" <fcouellet@...>
wrote:
>
> Speaking of crayfish, I had a blue one for a long time, just died
recently. I replaced her with a beige one with blue claws and can't
find any information about them at all! Is there much difference
between the blue and beige crawfish?
>
> Cynthia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Reichard
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:54 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crayfish
>
>
> Hi Roxanne and welcome. I don't breed crayfish but I have one female
> blue cray. I go to the following site when I need advice about crays:
>
> http://bluecrayfish.com/
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
> > aquariums.
> > We would like to raise crayfish such as
http://www.LobsterPond.com and
> > I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
> > If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
> > tank for the babies to hide in?
> > This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank
I was
> > thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
> > metal kill them?
> > If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
> > appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
> > Thanks much,
> > Roxanne
> > Minnesota
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21360 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie seeks buddies in San diego: need Java moss
Hi Kevin,
Yes, I buy both plants and fish online. _www.MainlyCichlids.com_
(http://www.MainlyCichlids.com) for most of my fish as I keep a lot of cichlids. I also
buy fish and plants off of Aquabid.com There are a fair amount of Aquabid
sellers in So Cal so you may be able to skip shipping or get lower shipping
rates.

I also look at ebay a lot but unfortunately ebay fell to pressure by animal
rights activists and now requires next day or overnight shipping and it makes
it too expensive for me to afford to buy off ebay. Buy a $5 fish and pay
$40.00 on shipping? Too much for me, I stick with aquabid.com

The local aquarium society that I sent you the link for is probably an
excellent source for inexpensive fish and plants. My local fish clubs have plants,
fish, and tanks at far below retail prices. I purchased 6 yellow lab fry
Saturday at my club for a buck, retail they are at least 7 a piece. I have picked
up tanks like a 55 gallon for 20 bucks. Same with plants, a 10 anubias for 5
bucks.

Mike


In a message dated 3/13/2007 7:19:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kfsee0213@... writes:


Thx Mike
Do you buy fish or plant online?





<BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21361 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Ray said: "...A 3" and a 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon tank should not be too
much of a burden for it yet though..."

Hi Ray,

I have to respectfully disagree. Round-bodied goldfish increase their body
mass by EIGHT times for every time they double in length.... so considering
that, a 2" goldfish is equal in body mass to eight 1" goldfish. A 4"
goldfish is equal to eight 2" or SIXTY-FOUR 1" goldfish. Basically, having
a 3" and 5" goldfish in a 10G tank is equal to having HUNDREDS of 1"
goldfish in the same tank. That's not recommended by even the broadest
interpretation of the 1" rule.

Here is the best article that I've found on the net,
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html (click
link at bottom to read all four parts), which kind of has a "Cliff's Notes"
version of how to keep goldfish. It recommends 30G to 50G PER GOLDFISH.
Certainly the 1" and 2" can be started in a 10G, but once they start getting
above that size, they really need a 55G tank as a bare minimum for two to
three round-bodied goldfish and even that may be on the small side.

I agree with your other advice on phasing in the "cycling" aspect.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
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-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting

Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water changes,
is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum populations of
both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be tricky. You'll need to
keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels through testing, and can
expect the ammonia to spike in approximately 10 days with the nitrite
spiking approximately another 10 days after that.

This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need to
increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need to keep
tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes necessary. To
ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing your filtration
(not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by adding a second filter if
you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon tank
should not be too much of a burden for it yet though, so I think the process
should go somewhat smoothly, although still needing proper vigilance. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> Your response is timely as I will be gone for two weeks in May.
> I can start cutting back on the water changes.
> We do have very good well water here.
> I got into a pattern with the fish and the plants. The water
removed
> from the aquarium is almost the same amount needed to water all my
> tropical plants.
> Thanks for your post.
> Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21362 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/13/2007
Subject: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Hi

I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing fast
enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
may be the reson?

I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change 25%
water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords and
they are doing quite well..

Arindam


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21363 From: Joseph Reid Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: stunt growth
What is the difference between goldfish and Koi?
Goldfish
and Koi are selections of carp, but from two different families.
Goldfish are mutations from crucian carp and Koi are from common carp
(Cyprinus carpio). Koi tend to move through the water at a more
relaxed, peaceful speed than goldfish.

I just read an email about strut growth. They actually answered their own quiestion. Why is it bad to stunt growth on goldfish or fish in general? It lowers their life expectancies. They said their goldfish lived 8 years well a goldfish gets to a foot long and live around 20 years. Goldfish and Koi are in the same family. .







____________________________________________________________________________________
No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go
with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21364 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Shirley
Hi Shirley

Thank you for the reply. I guess this one could be considered pink rather than beige. I went on that site before I wrote and had a hard time opening anyting, I will check my browser settings. I have to say that as much as I loved my blue, I think he was blind or something and didn't move much for the last year or so. This one is so active! He will take shrimp right from us! I always find it amazing bringing home a new pet like this - in the store he was with so many others with no hiding spots or plants. What a difference when we brought him home and he discovered his cave and everything else in the tank!

Thanks again!

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley Reichard
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 10:28 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crayfish


The term "blue crayfish" is a common term for a variety of species
that are blue, but may be others colors too. A cray that is beige in
color may be a species of blue cray. I was just on that site I
recommended (bluecrayfish.com) and they had photos of a pink cray and
a cray that had both pink and blue coloring. That site is a really
good one and has a forum where you might find answers or you can post
questions. It also provides links to other sites about crays. Visit
bluecrayfish.com and I'm sure you'll find help and other resources there.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet" <fcouellet@...>
wrote:
>
> Speaking of crayfish, I had a blue one for a long time, just died
recently. I replaced her with a beige one with blue claws and can't
find any information about them at all! Is there much difference
between the blue and beige crawfish?
>
> Cynthia
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shirley Reichard
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:54 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Crayfish
>
>
> Hi Roxanne and welcome. I don't breed crayfish but I have one female
> blue cray. I go to the following site when I need advice about crays:
>
> http://bluecrayfish.com/
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> >
> > Hello,
> > I've had the same goldfish for 15 years and that's all I know about
> > aquariums.
> > We would like to raise crayfish such as
http://www.LobsterPond.com and
> > I would like to have two or three koi in an aquarium in the house.
> > If any of you breed crayfish, what do you use on the bottom of the
> > tank for the babies to hide in?
> > This might be a dumb question but I have a galvanized stock tank
I was
> > thinking about using for the crayfish to grow out. Will galvanized
> > metal kill them?
> > If this post isn't appropiate for this list I apologise and would
> > appreciate a pointer to a list that better fits my needs.
> > Thanks much,
> > Roxanne
> > Minnesota
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Perhaps not enough nutrients in the water column.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Arindam Kar
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss - Not growing!!!

Hi

I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing fast
enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
may be the reson?

I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change 25%
water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords and
they are doing quite well..

Arindam


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21366 From: David Kershaw Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but we seem to be dealing with two separate issues in this thread.

The maximum fish load in any single aquarium and the growth
restricting effects of a small body of water.

Having kept fish for 49 years (is it really that long?), I have always
worked to the old formula that calculates the surface area required for any particular fish:

body length in inches (without tail fin ) squared plus 6 =
the surface area required to keep that fish alive
(this is a maximum load on an unfiltered tank without water movement).

Doctor David Ford at Aquarian did experiments in the sixty's and seventy's with fish in tanks with a constantly changing water supply and proved (at least to most peoples satisfaction) that (most) fish produce a growth inhibiting hormone that builds up in any small body of water.

Frequent water changes helped to disperse this chemical though not remove it completely.

Exceptions do exist, the marine bat fish being one example, that will
outgrow the tank space available.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21367 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Help: need advice on this tank
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand
and sand. the owner ask for 150.
is it a good tank?
i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants,
what else plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the
bulb if the light is not strong enough

Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21368 From: miss_america_ohio Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the quick reply. Most of the eggs were stuck to
the bottom of the tanks and were eaten by the parents, but I found
some sticking to the filter and other things in the tank, so i
removed the filter and some other eggs and have kept them in a tub of
water. I have taken some nice pictures of the eggs.
I tried pasting the photos in this
message but it was not possible so I have uploaded them here


http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&f\
unc=view&id=43&catid=6
<http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&\
func=view&id=43&catid=6>

I will post photos everyday so people like you can give some advice.

thank you
Anita


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> That would depend if you want a lot of fry or a few. With this time
lag,
> you are probably stuck with the latter. The eggs that have survived
the
> predation of the fish in the tank have a chance of hatching. Then the
> fry need to survive another round of predation. The best thing you can
> do now is to provide lots of cover for what ever young may appear to
> help them survive the next round of predation. You may also wish to
> remove the other fish to see what may develop.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of miss_america_ohio
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 5:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do
next????
>
> Hi,
> Today morning when I went to switch on the Aquarium Light, I found
> 2 male shubunkin goldfish were following one of the female shubunkin
> goldfish in the aquarium. On observing closely I saw that the goldfish
> was laying eggs . As this is the first time, That I am breeding
> goldfish, Please advice me what to do next.
>
> thanks for your help
> Anita
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21369 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Breed mollies
I am trying to breed mollies
the lucky male is a lyre-tail golden molly
the females are:
1) a lyre tail Dalmatian
2) a golden molly


I am thinking to put one more female. i want to try a sailfin.
questions
but the sail fin i saw in the store is bigger than the rest
are they a good match?
I guess they look different but they are the same species, then they
can breed right?
I wonder how the babies will look like
the lyre-tail gold tail molly(male)looks not too active, should i
replace it and get a new one? what is your suggestion?
so i am trying to build up a 30 gallon mating tank for mollies.
should i put some algae eating shrimp and algae eating catfish in it?
Note that the tank will be added w/ some salt

i am so excited for the babies to come out Grin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21371 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Breed mollies
thx, then i guess i should get a female and a male sailfin :)
then the babies would be sailfin too



On 3/14/07, Susan Mrenna <mail4sdm2@...> wrote:
>
> I have a white male sailfin molly that is the daddy fish. I do not know
> what
> the mother fish's fins were like, only that she was a black molly. All the
> offspring are dalmation and none have the sailfin so I am guessing she was
> a
> regular black mollie. I inherited them along with a tank. I am guessing
> your
> babies will turn out to be dalmation too.
>
> Susan
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21372 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Hi Lenny, If you would take the time to understand the point I was
trying to get across, you might not find my statement disagreeable.
While I did say that a 3" and a 5" goldfish in a ten gallon tank
should not be too much of a burden for it, this was in context with
the decision to finally cycle the tank, and if you were following the
threads, this cycled condition would only be needed temporarily for
the duration of Roxanne's vacation coming up in May when she would
not be there to change out large quantities of water, which would be
a most critical time for her fish if the tank were not cycled. She
should note that upon her return, the fish should only be maintained
in this condition (cycled tank) for as short as possible time until
she can get the larger tank. She may even find upon her return that
this bio-load might not be conducive to cycle safe to fish without
increased water changes.

It has been recommended by many for her to acquire a larger tank for
her two fish, which I assume she'll be doing upon her return. In the
meantime, immediately after her return, she could resume the more
massive water changes when she gets back; which may well become
necessary, before she actually gets her new tank as I touched on
above, for reasons brought forth.

I do understand your reference to the multiplication of body mass
with the increase in length, as most of us realize. Roxanne has not
said, however, that her goldfish are round-bodied; she relates to
these fish merely as to length in her post #21313 (3/12/07 10:53PM).
But even if they are Comets (long-bodied), agreeably, the body mass
still multiplies as the length increases, this of course is quite
obvious; we all realize that.

While we all agree that her present condition is too crowded (even if
these fish were at maximum size and have no further growing to do --
which we know they're not), and we know that such bio-loads are not
to be maintained as a permanent set-up by any hobbyist because of
this very reason, we are all urging Roxanne to secure a larger tank
for her charges.

When I said that a 3" and a 5" goldfish were not too much of a
burden, in the context it was used, I meant that the tank (and its
occupants) could successfully be maintained (without fatalities)
while the process of cycling was ongoing, and that it (the cycling)
was certainly do-able and should go smoothly. I did emphasize that
the cycling process still needed PROPER VIGILANCE. After all, she
has been maintaining these two fish in the 10 gallon, without
incident, through more massive water changes, and this amounts to
cutting back on those changes with proper and careful monitoring, for
completion of the cycle.

Still, in realizing even after this posting that she may not have the
experience that many of us here do, I immediately followed this up
with another post stating that, and reminding Roxanne, that this was
a fair fish load (bio-load) -- meaning that it was not a trivial bio-
load, and that this conversion from massive water changes to a fully
cycled tank would not be a breeze and warning her not to cut back too
much all at once on the larger water changes. I would have hoped by
all this you would have seen that I had not meant in the slightest
that as a permanent set up, as you are alluding to (in your reference
to round-bodied goldfish in a permanent set-up), that Roxanne's
present situation was not too much of an over-burden long-term, hence
the recommendations I outlined with it. Ray Wetzel

P.S. BTW, How did you ever come to the conclusion, on a different
post of yours, that Goldfish were "mini-Koi's?" I hope you meant
that with tongue in cheek!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> I have to respectfully disagree. Round-bodied goldfish increase
their body
> mass by EIGHT times for every time they double in length.... so
considering
> that, a 2" goldfish is equal in body mass to eight 1" goldfish. A
4"
> goldfish is equal to eight 2" or SIXTY-FOUR 1" goldfish.
Basically, having
> a 3" and 5" goldfish in a 10G tank is equal to having HUNDREDS of 1"
> goldfish in the same tank. That's not recommended by even the
broadest
> interpretation of the 1" rule.
>
> Here is the best article that I've found on the net,
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
(click
> link at bottom to read all four parts), which kind of has
a "Cliff's Notes"
> version of how to keep goldfish. It recommends 30G to 50G PER
GOLDFISH.
> Certainly the 1" and 2" can be started in a 10G, but once they
start getting
> above that size, they really need a 55G tank as a bare minimum for
two to
> three round-bodied goldfish and even that may be on the small side.
>
> I agree with your other advice on phasing in the "cycling" aspect.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting
>
> Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
changes,
> is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
populations of
> both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be tricky.
You'll need to
> keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels through testing, and
can
> expect the ammonia to spike in approximately 10 days with the
nitrite
> spiking approximately another 10 days after that.
>
> This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need
to
> increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need
to keep
> tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
necessary. To
> ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing your
filtration
> (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by adding a second
filter if
> you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon
tank
> should not be too much of a burden for it yet though, so I think
the process
> should go somewhat smoothly, although still needing proper
vigilance. Ray
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21373 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Breed mollies
Personally have sort of a darwins grab bag in my molly tank, there are 2 males with one being a black sailfin lyretail and the other a sunburst lyretail both pretty fish then in their harem of girls there are a wide range of different colors from gold albinos to black and all colors in between. From this the babies are a wide array of colors, my favorite of the females produces some interesting colored fry as she is black with a orange tail so far her fry have turned out black with orange spots.

Shannon

Susan Mrenna <mail4sdm2@...> wrote:
I have a white male sailfin molly that is the daddy fish. I do not know what
the mother fish's fins were like, only that she was a black molly. All the
offspring are dalmation and none have the sailfin so I am guessing she was a
regular black mollie. I inherited them along with a tank. I am guessing your
babies will turn out to be dalmation too.

Susan






---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21374 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
> this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand
> and sand. the owner ask for 150.
> is it a good tank?
> i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants,
> what else plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the
> bulb if the light is not strong enough
>
> Alex
>
You will need a new light fixture not just new bulbs. That is if you
need stronger lights. I got a 30 gal with stand, blue gravel, large
castle ornament, 200 watt heater, power filter for 60 gal, fish, all
cleaning and feeding supplies for 50.00 from local classifieds. Check
the price on the item new before paying that for used.
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21375 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
You have to train java moss to coat a surface. It is a floating plant. It is known to be a slow growing, low light plant. Doesn't grow fast at all. Java moss is dark green not bright green. Try Riccia. I can't offer any info about it but I have seen beautiful carpets of it in others tanks.
Karen

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Perhaps not enough nutrients in the water column.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Arindam Kar
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss - Not growing!!!

Hi

I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing fast
enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
may be the reson?

I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change 25%
water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords and
they are doing quite well..

Arindam

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21376 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Plants/Riccia.html

Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...> wrote: You have to train java moss to coat a surface. It is a floating plant. It is known to be a slow growing, low light plant. Doesn't grow fast at all. Java moss is dark green not bright green. Try Riccia. I can't offer any info about it but I have seen beautiful carpets of it in others tanks.
Karen

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Perhaps not enough nutrients in the water column.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Arindam Kar
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss - Not growing!!!

Hi

I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing fast
enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
may be the reson?

I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change 25%
water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords and
they are doing quite well..

Arindam

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21377 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
You need to find out if there is room for two bulbs or just one. If only
one, you may not be able to get a strong enough bulb to give you the light
you need on a 30G tall tank like that. $150.00 isn't the best price but
probably not a bad price. I'm not sure what the market around there is
like. I've seen similar systems on sale on craigslist and garage sales for
much cheaper. I'm looking at a 55G with 160W of lighting, canister filter,
stand, etc. for the same price down here.

I sure hope he found a MUCH larger tank for that poor Oscar in there. It
probably died an early death due to health issues brought on by stunting and
too small of a tank.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help: need advice on this tank

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand and
sand. the owner ask for 150.
is it a good tank?
i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants, what else
plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the bulb if the light
is not strong enough

Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21378 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
if i buy a new tank, it will cost
$29-for 29 gal tank
$28 for the heater
$36 for the filter
$35 for the fluorent light( the store keeper kept telling me to get some
"double"something light which cost like $150)
then stand is expensive
I am trying to bargain it for $120 for the wholething, because the same
system maybe sold at $100 here

it's not cheap for a student :(

On 14 Mar 2007 11:20:34 -0700, NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> You need to find out if there is room for two bulbs or just one. If only
> one, you may not be able to get a strong enough bulb to give you the light
> you need on a 30G tall tank like that. $150.00 isn't the best price but
> probably not a bad price. I'm not sure what the market around there is
> like. I've seen similar systems on sale on craigslist and garage sales for
> much cheaper. I'm looking at a 55G with 160W of lighting, canister filter,
> stand, etc. for the same price down here.
>
> I sure hope he found a MUCH larger tank for that poor Oscar in there. It
> probably died an early death due to health issues brought on by stunting
> and
> too small of a tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help: need advice on this tank
>
> http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
> this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand and
> sand. the owner ask for 150.
> is it a good tank?
> i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants, what
> else
> plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the bulb if the light
> is not strong enough
>
> Alex
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21379 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Your link did not work. You should use Photobucket or Webshots for hosting
your pictures. That "forum" had to be joined and signed in to view your
picture and it doesn't look like a very good forum. Must be brand new..
hardly any posts in any of the forums. This group is much better.. IMO.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of miss_america_ohio
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????


Hi Steve,
Thanks for the quick reply. Most of the eggs were stuck to the
bottom of the tanks and were eaten by the parents, but I found some sticking
to the filter and other things in the tank, so i removed the filter and some
other eggs and have kept them in a tub of water. I have taken some nice
pictures of the eggs.
I tried pasting the photos in this message
but it was not possible so I have uploaded them here


http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&f\
unc=view&id=43&catid=6
<http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&\
func=view&id=43&catid=6>

I will post photos everyday so people like you can give some advice.

thank you
Anita


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> That would depend if you want a lot of fry or a few. With this time
lag,
> you are probably stuck with the latter. The eggs that have survived
the
> predation of the fish in the tank have a chance of hatching. Then the
> fry need to survive another round of predation. The best thing you can
> do now is to provide lots of cover for what ever young may appear to
> help them survive the next round of predation. You may also wish to
> remove the other fish to see what may develop.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of miss_america_ohio
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 5:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do
next????
>
> Hi,
> Today morning when I went to switch on the Aquarium Light, I found
> 2 male shubunkin goldfish were following one of the female shubunkin
> goldfish in the aquarium. On observing closely I saw that the goldfish
> was laying eggs . As this is the first time, That I am breeding
> goldfish, Please advice me what to do next.
>
> thanks for your help
> Anita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21380 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
"Ray said: P.S. BTW, How did you ever come to the conclusion, on a
different post of yours, that Goldfish were "mini-Koi's?" I hope you meant
that with tongue in cheek!"

Yep, that was for illustrative purposes only since calico's and sarasa's do
resemble koi.... kind of like the "mini-me" on Austin Power's movies...
certainly not the same "species". LOL

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting

Hi Lenny, If you would take the time to understand the point I was trying
to get across, you might not find my statement disagreeable.
While I did say that a 3" and a 5" goldfish in a ten gallon tank should not
be too much of a burden for it, this was in context with the decision to
finally cycle the tank, and if you were following the threads, this cycled
condition would only be needed temporarily for the duration of Roxanne's
vacation coming up in May when she would not be there to change out large
quantities of water, which would be a most critical time for her fish if the
tank were not cycled. She should note that upon her return, the fish should
only be maintained in this condition (cycled tank) for as short as possible
time until she can get the larger tank. She may even find upon her return
that this bio-load might not be conducive to cycle safe to fish without
increased water changes.

It has been recommended by many for her to acquire a larger tank for her two
fish, which I assume she'll be doing upon her return. In the meantime,
immediately after her return, she could resume the more massive water
changes when she gets back; which may well become necessary, before she
actually gets her new tank as I touched on above, for reasons brought forth.

I do understand your reference to the multiplication of body mass with the
increase in length, as most of us realize. Roxanne has not said, however,
that her goldfish are round-bodied; she relates to these fish merely as to
length in her post #21313 (3/12/07 10:53PM).
But even if they are Comets (long-bodied), agreeably, the body mass still
multiplies as the length increases, this of course is quite obvious; we all
realize that.

While we all agree that her present condition is too crowded (even if these
fish were at maximum size and have no further growing to do -- which we know
they're not), and we know that such bio-loads are not to be maintained as a
permanent set-up by any hobbyist because of this very reason, we are all
urging Roxanne to secure a larger tank for her charges.

When I said that a 3" and a 5" goldfish were not too much of a burden, in
the context it was used, I meant that the tank (and its
occupants) could successfully be maintained (without fatalities) while the
process of cycling was ongoing, and that it (the cycling) was certainly
do-able and should go smoothly. I did emphasize that the cycling process
still needed PROPER VIGILANCE. After all, she has been maintaining these
two fish in the 10 gallon, without incident, through more massive water
changes, and this amounts to cutting back on those changes with proper and
careful monitoring, for completion of the cycle.

Still, in realizing even after this posting that she may not have the
experience that many of us here do, I immediately followed this up with
another post stating that, and reminding Roxanne, that this was a fair fish
load (bio-load) -- meaning that it was not a trivial bio- load, and that
this conversion from massive water changes to a fully cycled tank would not
be a breeze and warning her not to cut back too much all at once on the
larger water changes. I would have hoped by all this you would have seen
that I had not meant in the slightest that as a permanent set up, as you are
alluding to (in your reference to round-bodied goldfish in a permanent
set-up), that Roxanne's present situation was not too much of an over-burden
long-term, hence the recommendations I outlined with it. Ray Wetzel

P.S. BTW, How did you ever come to the conclusion, on a different post of
yours, that Goldfish were "mini-Koi's?" I hope you meant
that with tongue in cheek!


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> I have to respectfully disagree. Round-bodied goldfish increase
their body
> mass by EIGHT times for every time they double in length.... so
considering
> that, a 2" goldfish is equal in body mass to eight 1" goldfish. A
4"
> goldfish is equal to eight 2" or SIXTY-FOUR 1" goldfish.
Basically, having
> a 3" and 5" goldfish in a 10G tank is equal to having HUNDREDS of 1"
> goldfish in the same tank. That's not recommended by even the
broadest
> interpretation of the 1" rule.
>
> Here is the best article that I've found on the net,
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
(click
> link at bottom to read all four parts), which kind of has
a "Cliff's Notes"
> version of how to keep goldfish. It recommends 30G to 50G PER
GOLDFISH.
> Certainly the 1" and 2" can be started in a 10G, but once they
start getting
> above that size, they really need a 55G tank as a bare minimum for
two to
> three round-bodied goldfish and even that may be on the small side.
>
> I agree with your other advice on phasing in the "cycling" aspect.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting
>
> Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
changes,
> is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
populations of
> both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be tricky.
You'll need to
> keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels through testing, and
can
> expect the ammonia to spike in approximately 10 days with the
nitrite
> spiking approximately another 10 days after that.
>
> This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first need
to
> increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need
to keep
> tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
necessary. To
> ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing your
filtration
> (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by adding a second
filter if
> you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5" goldfish in a 10 gallon
tank
> should not be too much of a burden for it yet though, so I think
the process
> should go somewhat smoothly, although still needing proper
vigilance. Ray
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21381 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
I saw riccia, it is so beautiful bright green but expensive about $20
,compared to $5 java moss and riccia require high light, so more expensive
lighting ...
is riccia fast growing?
Alex


On 3/14/07, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
>
> http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Plants/Riccia.html
>
> Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@... <kmsmith90%40sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
> You have to train java moss to coat a surface. It is a floating plant. It is
> known to be a slow growing, low light plant. Doesn't grow fast at all. Java
> moss is dark green not bright green. Try Riccia. I can't offer any info
> about it but I have seen beautiful carpets of it in others tanks.
>
> Karen
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@... <steve%40familyszabo.com>> wrote:
> Perhaps not enough nutrients in the water column.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
> Arindam Kar
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss - Not growing!!!
>
> Hi
>
> I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
> white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
> bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
> my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing
> fast
> enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
> may be the reson?
>
> I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change
> 25%
> water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords
> and
> they are doing quite well..
>
> Arindam
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21382 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Alex See" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> I saw riccia, it is so beautiful bright green but expensive about
$20
> ,compared to $5 java moss and riccia require high light, so more
expensive
> lighting ...
> is riccia fast growing?
> Alex
>
>
> On 3/14/07, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> >
> > > >

>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Check out
aquabid in the plants section for an auction for riccia. I don't
know much about it other than it looks like the description you were
giving for java moss. I thought you might research this plant
instead. Did you check out that link to the krib?
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Plants/Riccia.html

karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21383 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Also, I have read that you can train java moss to cover objects and
then place them aroung the bottom of the tank. I will see if I can find
that info. However java moss is not going to grow fast. Lets see if we
can find some other grassy plants. I used to have some kind of aquatic
dwarf grass that was pretty.
karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21384 From: Karen Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21385 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
It's not a bad deal. I'm just cheap. I always see free setups on freecycle, do you belong to a freecycle group? Anyway, your'e not getting ripped off ,it's an OK deal. Just be on the lookout for lights on sale. Aquabid has used fixtures at good prices. I bought a Finnex fixture from Premium Aquatics for 110.00 new. I am very happy with it. And you may not need new lights. What all are you planning on keeping in the tank?

Alex See <kfsee0213@...> wrote: if i buy a new tank, it will cost
$29-for 29 gal tank
$28 for the heater
$36 for the filter
$35 for the fluorent light( the store keeper kept telling me to get some
"double"something light which cost like $150)
then stand is expensive
I am trying to bargain it for $120 for the wholething, because the same
system maybe sold at $100 here

it's not cheap for a student :(

On 14 Mar 2007 11:20:34 -0700, NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> You need to find out if there is room for two bulbs or just one. If only
> one, you may not be able to get a strong enough bulb to give you the light
> you need on a 30G tall tank like that. $150.00 isn't the best price but
> probably not a bad price. I'm not sure what the market around there is
> like. I've seen similar systems on sale on craigslist and garage sales for
> much cheaper. I'm looking at a 55G with 160W of lighting, canister filter,
> stand, etc. for the same price down here.
>
> I sure hope he found a MUCH larger tank for that poor Oscar in there. It
> probably died an early death due to health issues brought on by stunting
> and
> too small of a tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help: need advice on this tank
>
> http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
> this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand and
> sand. the owner ask for 150.
> is it a good tank?
> i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants, what
> else
> plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the bulb if the light
> is not strong enough
>
> Alex
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21386 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
Keep looking around. Also check Garage Sales (also listed on CraigsList)
and FreeCycle groups in your area. You may find lots of freebies on
FreeCycle... maybe not the entire system from one place but enough to get
you started. If you are on a budget... and who isn't... then definitely
keep looking for used stuff. You'll find it.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Help: need advice on this tank

if i buy a new tank, it will cost
$29-for 29 gal tank
$28 for the heater
$36 for the filter
$35 for the fluorent light( the store keeper kept telling me to get some
"double"something light which cost like $150) then stand is expensive I am
trying to bargain it for $120 for the wholething, because the same system
maybe sold at $100 here

it's not cheap for a student :(

On 14 Mar 2007 11:20:34 -0700, NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> You need to find out if there is room for two bulbs or just one. If
> only one, you may not be able to get a strong enough bulb to give you
> the light you need on a 30G tall tank like that. $150.00 isn't the
> best price but probably not a bad price. I'm not sure what the market
> around there is like. I've seen similar systems on sale on craigslist
> and garage sales for much cheaper. I'm looking at a 55G with 160W of
> lighting, canister filter, stand, etc. for the same price down here.
>
> I sure hope he found a MUCH larger tank for that poor Oscar in there.
> It probably died an early death due to health issues brought on by
> stunting and too small of a tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be
> to use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
> files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf
> Of gorsford
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 6:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help: need advice on this tank
>
> http://sandiego.craigslist.org/for/293543128.html
> this is a 30 gal tank w/ blue fluorent light and heater, filter, stand
> and sand. the owner ask for 150.
> is it a good tank?
> i want to grown java moss and java fern and some low light plants,
> what else plant do u recommand? is that true that i can change the
> bulb if the light is not strong enough
>
> Alex
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21387 From: Pickles Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
I didn't have to join to view the pics..I did see them, but I couldn't see anything
really, so I'll have take your word that there were actually fish eggs there!
...lol...you can also down load pictures to this group in the photo section and yahoo
will size them for you...very easy to do then just post to the group that you've
added pics to the photo section...I have only ever had two goldfish lay eggs before
and just some of the ones that were well hidden ever hatched...and then some of those
got eaten before I noticed them in time...that was in a 100 gallon tank so it took a
lot of looking!.....Good Luck!....Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21388 From: gorsford Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Help!! My Roomate's molly is acting weird
the lucky male molly has lost the balance and being very inactive
there is no scar or damage to his body and fins
I guess it was because the 5 gallon tank w/ 3 mollies, 4 platy and 3 tera
is too crowd!!! plus he didhave any real plant...

my roomate has moved the weird acting molly to a 1 gallon tank
with no filter or pump

what can we do to fix this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21389 From: Alex See Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help!! My Roomate's molly is acting weird
acually it got rotten fin, hard to tell since he is a lyre tail


On 3/14/07, gorsford <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> the lucky male molly has lost the balance and being very inactive
> there is no scar or damage to his body and fins
> I guess it was because the 5 gallon tank w/ 3 mollies, 4 platy and 3 tera
> is too crowd!!! plus he didhave any real plant...
>
> my roomate has moved the weird acting molly to a 1 gallon tank
> with no filter or pump
>
> what can we do to fix this?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21390 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do next????
Unfortunately, I will not have the time to take a look at them, though I
may later. I was doing site work most of the day, and not in the office,
and as a result, I have nearly 300 messages to plow though this evening,
as I also get ready to leave of the NEC event this weekend (for those of
you who do not know, the NEC is the Northeast Council of Aquarium
Societies, and they put on one of the most respected weekend workshops
in the country. See http://northestcouncil.org for information on this
year's event--if you are close, you may be able to take in some of the
activities.) However, if you do post regularly, I'll get the chance to
look eventually <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of miss_america_ohio
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 7:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My GoldFish are Laying Eggs, What to do
next????


Hi Steve,
Thanks for the quick reply. Most of the eggs were stuck to
the bottom of the tanks and were eaten by the parents, but I found
some sticking to the filter and other things in the tank, so i
removed the filter and some other eggs and have kept them in a tub of
water. I have taken some nice pictures of the eggs.
I tried pasting the photos in this
message but it was not possible so I have uploaded them here


http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&f
\
unc=view&id=43&catid=6
<http://www.aquariumclub.org/index.php?option=com_joomlaboard&Itemid=33&
\
func=view&id=43&catid=6>

I will post photos everyday so people like you can give some advice.

thank you
Anita
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21391 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/14/2007
Subject: Re: Java Moss - Not growing!!!
Karen

Thnx for the information. I will try to get ricca and plant it...

Arindam


On 3/14/07, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
>
> You have to train java moss to coat a surface. It is a floating plant.
> It is known to be a slow growing, low light plant. Doesn't grow fast at all.
> Java moss is dark green not bright green. Try Riccia. I can't offer any info
> about it but I have seen beautiful carpets of it in others tanks.
> Karen
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@... <steve%40familyszabo.com>> wrote:
> Perhaps not enough nutrients in the water column.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of
> Arindam Kar
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 1:25 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Java Moss - Not growing!!!
>
> Hi
>
> I have a 20Gallon Community aquarium and the base is filled with crushed
> white stones. About 2 weeks back I bought Java Moss and placed it in the
> bottom , was hoping that it will grow well and cover up the bottom to give
> my aquarium a green carpet look. Unfortunately the moss is not growing
> fast
> enough(I read it grows very fast) and the colour is also not bright - what
> may be the reson?
>
> I have enough light in my aquarium (2 X 12Watt Fluroscent) and I change
> 25%
> water once in every 2 weeks. I have other plants like Baby Tears/Shords
> and
> they are doing quite well..
>
> Arindam
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21392 From: Alex See Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
hi everyone
I finally got my tank, it is a eclipse 20 gallon just a tank and the stand
and light ( 1 white fluorescent &1 blue fluorescent light) for $60, pretty
good.
:)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21393 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Lenny, Okay, that explains what would have ordinarily appeared as a
misapprehension. Sarasa Comets can have very interesting patterns,
which at first glance look similar to those found on some Kohaku
varieties. You've drawn a fair analogy here.

What??? No reply here to the bulk of my most recent posting
pertaining to cycling the two goldfish in the 10 gallon tank, etc.,
and my illustrative clarification of same for your benefit??? Ray




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> "Ray said: P.S. BTW, How did you ever come to the conclusion, on a
> different post of yours, that Goldfish were "mini-Koi's?" I hope
you meant
> that with tongue in cheek!"
>
> Yep, that was for illustrative purposes only since calico's and
sarasa's do
> resemble koi.... kind of like the "mini-me" on Austin Power's
movies...
> certainly not the same "species". LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:21 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting
>
> Hi Lenny, If you would take the time to understand the point I was
trying
> to get across, you might not find my statement disagreeable.
> While I did say that a 3" and a 5" goldfish in a ten gallon tank
should not
> be too much of a burden for it, this was in context with the
decision to
> finally cycle the tank, and if you were following the threads, this
cycled
> condition would only be needed temporarily for the duration of
Roxanne's
> vacation coming up in May when she would not be there to change out
large
> quantities of water, which would be a most critical time for her
fish if the
> tank were not cycled. She should note that upon her return, the
fish should
> only be maintained in this condition (cycled tank) for as short as
possible
> time until she can get the larger tank. She may even find upon her
return
> that this bio-load might not be conducive to cycle safe to fish
without
> increased water changes.
>
> It has been recommended by many for her to acquire a larger tank
for her two
> fish, which I assume she'll be doing upon her return. In the
meantime,
> immediately after her return, she could resume the more massive
water
> changes when she gets back; which may well become necessary, before
she
> actually gets her new tank as I touched on above, for reasons
brought forth.
>
> I do understand your reference to the multiplication of body mass
with the
> increase in length, as most of us realize. Roxanne has not said,
however,
> that her goldfish are round-bodied; she relates to these fish
merely as to
> length in her post #21313 (3/12/07 10:53PM).
> But even if they are Comets (long-bodied), agreeably, the body mass
still
> multiplies as the length increases, this of course is quite
obvious; we all
> realize that.
>
> While we all agree that her present condition is too crowded (even
if these
> fish were at maximum size and have no further growing to do --
which we know
> they're not), and we know that such bio-loads are not to be
maintained as a
> permanent set-up by any hobbyist because of this very reason, we
are all
> urging Roxanne to secure a larger tank for her charges.
>
> When I said that a 3" and a 5" goldfish were not too much of a
burden, in
> the context it was used, I meant that the tank (and its
> occupants) could successfully be maintained (without fatalities)
while the
> process of cycling was ongoing, and that it (the cycling) was
certainly
> do-able and should go smoothly. I did emphasize that the cycling
process
> still needed PROPER VIGILANCE. After all, she has been maintaining
these
> two fish in the 10 gallon, without incident, through more massive
water
> changes, and this amounts to cutting back on those changes with
proper and
> careful monitoring, for completion of the cycle.
>
> Still, in realizing even after this posting that she may not have
the
> experience that many of us here do, I immediately followed this up
with
> another post stating that, and reminding Roxanne, that this was a
fair fish
> load (bio-load) -- meaning that it was not a trivial bio- load, and
that
> this conversion from massive water changes to a fully cycled tank
would not
> be a breeze and warning her not to cut back too much all at once on
the
> larger water changes. I would have hoped by all this you would
have seen
> that I had not meant in the slightest that as a permanent set up,
as you are
> alluding to (in your reference to round-bodied goldfish in a
permanent
> set-up), that Roxanne's present situation was not too much of an
over-burden
> long-term, hence the recommendations I outlined with it. Ray Wetzel
>
> P.S. BTW, How did you ever come to the conclusion, on a different
post of
> yours, that Goldfish were "mini-Koi's?" I hope you meant
> that with tongue in cheek!
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> >
> > I have to respectfully disagree. Round-bodied goldfish increase
> their body
> > mass by EIGHT times for every time they double in length.... so
> considering
> > that, a 2" goldfish is equal in body mass to eight 1" goldfish.
A
> 4"
> > goldfish is equal to eight 2" or SIXTY-FOUR 1" goldfish.
> Basically, having
> > a 3" and 5" goldfish in a 10G tank is equal to having HUNDREDS of
1"
> > goldfish in the same tank. That's not recommended by even the
> broadest
> > interpretation of the 1" rule.
> >
> > Here is the best article that I've found on the net,
> >
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
> (click
> > link at bottom to read all four parts), which kind of has
> a "Cliff's Notes"
> > version of how to keep goldfish. It recommends 30G to 50G PER
> GOLDFISH.
> > Certainly the 1" and 2" can be started in a 10G, but once they
> start getting
> > above that size, they really need a 55G tank as a bare minimum
for
> two to
> > three round-bodied goldfish and even that may be on the small
side.
> >
> > I agree with your other advice on phasing in the "cycling" aspect.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2007 6:39 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Stunting
> >
> > Roxanne, While what you need to do, in cutting back on the water
> changes,
> > is necessary to ensure the tank is cycled and has maximum
> populations of
> > both Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters this process can be tricky.
> You'll need to
> > keep on top of the ammonia and nitrite levels through testing,
and
> can
> > expect the ammonia to spike in approximately 10 days with the
> nitrite
> > spiking approximately another 10 days after that.
> >
> > This whole process can take up to 6 weeks, so while you first
need
> to
> > increase your ammonia by a BIT (to feed the Nitrosomas), you need
> to keep
> > tabs on it to be ready to change out more water if it becomes
> necessary. To
> > ease this transitional process, I'd recommend increasing your
> filtration
> > (not the flow, but the physical size), possibly by adding a
second
> filter if
> > you see it become necessary. A 3" and a 5" goldfish in a 10
gallon
> tank
> > should not be too much of a burden for it yet though, so I think
> the process
> > should go somewhat smoothly, although still needing proper
> vigilance. Ray
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21394 From: micheal03us Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: my white cloud is acting strange
Hi,
I noticed last night that one of my white clouds seems to be acting
a little funny. He stays near the top and doesn't seem to have any
energy. It would seem like he's just sort of floating. I thought he
would be gone this morning but he's still hanging in there. He's
hanging out now by the bottom of the heater like he's lost or
something. I got some aquarium salt to clean the ornaments, I was
wondering if I should do a salt treatment to the water to see if that
perks him up or what. If there is something wrong with him that
requires medicine, my work schdule won't allow me to get to the bpet
store until next weekend. Would salt treatments help until then or
does it sound like he's doomed? Karen.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21395 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help: need advice on this tank
good for you! Can't wait to see pics when you get it set up
Karen

Alex See <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
hi everyone
I finally got my tank, it is a eclipse 20 gallon just a tank and the stand
and light ( 1 white fluorescent &1 blue fluorescent light) for $60, pretty
good.
:)






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21396 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Here we go, more dumb questions. I've been caring for goldfish the
same way in cleaning the tank twice a month to the barebones for
decades.
My last big goldfish was as big as a man's hand (15 years ago) and
healthy as a horse until the two year old fed it a whole container of
food.
The two I have now were purchased at 19 cent feeder fish. They
resemble a perch in shape.
My well water leaves a brown mineral film on the sides of the tank
which is why I clean the tank and large rocks.
The only plants in the tank are organic baby lettuce floating on top.
I have no gravel or filter just a bubbler.
After reading the posts and do research on the side I realize I have
been keeping the fish incorrectly but I still would like to know why I
have to cycle if I clean the tank that often.
I am thinking of having the person who is going to care for the fish
while I am gone remove a gallon of water every day and replace it with
clean water.
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21397 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
I'm glad to see you've learned that you've been keeping the fish
incorrectly. Ideally, the tank should be cycled to help control the
excess ammonia and resulting nitrites from this, as a result of your
fish's wastes. This practice should be followed through when you
move them to a bigger tank, as for one thing, it will make
maintaining them so much easier on you.

Cycling of the 10 gallon tank was recommended primarily as you would
not be there to continue to manually change out the ammonia build up
with the regular water changes you've been doing. Even so, while the
bio-load of this tank is obvious not too much for the 10 gallon tank,
for it to be maintained through large water changes (as witness, your
fish are still living), this bio-load is considerable if you try
continuing to maintain these fish solely by means of cycling, as it
will be continously harder for the beneficial bacteria to keep up
with the ammonia output in a ten gallon tank, after initially
becoming cycled; the fish are getting too big for the tank.

Unless your filtration, and populations of these beneficial bacteria,
are large enough to keep up with these wastes, supplemental water
changes will still be needed, but it will continue getting riskier as
the fish grow as for one thing, a 10 gallon tank is too small to keep
the chemistry of this water stable with the increased waste produced
by these fish.

I'm not sure what floating organic baby lettuce is, unless you mean
either Duckweed or Water Sprite (or the pond plant -- Water
Lettuce). By your description, it sounds like you have either
regular Goldfish or Comet Goldfish (both long bodied). While you're
away, you would probably do better having your caretaker change out 2
gallons of water every other day. This would have more benefit than
changing 1 gallon per day, since the following day 1/10th of the
preceeding gallon will be taken out with each successive day. Do not
have them clean the filter during that period, and when you clean the
filtration system, do only half at one time (and don't use tap water
for that purpose).

You should get test kits to monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels.
While you will be able to get your 10 gallon tank to cycle, with
doing partial water changes -- just enough to keep ahead of too much
ammonia/nitrite build-up, you will no doubt find it harder to keep it
in proper balance and may well need to somewhat increase the quantity
of the water changes again when you get back. Cleaning the tank to
the bare-bones is not the proper way to keep the fish, as it can
cause stress on them (this is in general); can't argue with your
success though, even if its not the right way, but the methods can
improve.

I would start looking for that larger tank sooner rather than later,
since you're going to need it anyway. Since you don't have a filter
in the 10 gallon, you might want to look into getting that larger
tank before vacation time, with the filter(s) that goes along with
it, instead of investing in a filter for the 10 gallon. I would add
at least a thin layer of aquarium gravel to the tanks, since that
will give the beneficial bacteria all the more rough surface area to
establish themselves. If you're not planting, you don't need too
heavy of a layer of gravel since this will only act as a dirt trap if
you're not used to having it. You could consider planting using
tough-leafed plants such as Anubias or Sagittaria, as they will help
in reducing the nitrogenous waste. Plants such as Valisneria would
be lunch for these fish. Best of luck. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Here we go, more dumb questions. I've been caring for goldfish
the
> same way in cleaning the tank twice a month to the barebones for
> decades.
> My last big goldfish was as big as a man's hand (15 years ago) and
> healthy as a horse until the two year old fed it a whole container
of
> food.
> The two I have now were purchased at 19 cent feeder fish. They
> resemble a perch in shape.
> My well water leaves a brown mineral film on the sides of the tank
> which is why I clean the tank and large rocks.
> The only plants in the tank are organic baby lettuce floating on
top.
> I have no gravel or filter just a bubbler.
> After reading the posts and do research on the side I realize I
have
> been keeping the fish incorrectly but I still would like to know
why I
> have to cycle if I clean the tank that often.
> I am thinking of having the person who is going to care for the
fish
> while I am gone remove a gallon of water every day and replace it
with
> clean water.
> Thanks,
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21398 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Stunting
Hi Ray,
The organic baby lettuce is mixed salad green. The fish like to eat
it.
I looked at the local pet store for plants and the selections was
pitiful, the plants were pitiful and I am not going to pay $4 for some
roots and beat up foliage.
Last year I tried growing watercress. Of course the fish ate the
seeds.
I don't think I can order plants at this time of year as they might
freeze but I would appreciate a good on-line source for them.
Living in the sticks is peaceful but makes shopping for many things
very difficult.
I should be getting a 29 and a 75 gallon tank this weekend. I
mentioned the whole thing to my vet and she has tanks she just wants to
get rid of.
Thanks again,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21399 From: Don Young Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Advice on a pond
I am looking at setting up a pond in my back yard. I live in Vegas,
and weather can be a problem. The winters are not bad lows in the 30's
but the highs in the summer of 110 might be tough. I am looking at
either the preformed or the liner. I would like to have live lants but
ai am not sure what would do good here. I would like to be fish at
sometime, as well as a place for my two redear slider turtles. I have
been looking at the filters and pums but have not decided on which way
to go. Does anyone have any ideas of where I can go for info. Also if
anyone is from Vegas let me know. Thanks

Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21400 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Your turtles will most likely eat any fish you have unless it's a really big
pond. Reconsider mixing them.

Is this going to be a DIY project or were you going to use a contractor to
build your pond?

Here is a starting point of articles.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/index.html

Here is a post I recently did on another forum..

Go to my Blog Post about a DIY pump pre-filter/bio-filter that you can make
for around $10.00 (not including the pump and fountain that you will need
regardless to keep your pond aerated). You will also need a good liner...
probably the most important thing since I've read horror stories of ponds
leaking. Also be careful of fountains and water falls as they have led to
draining a small pond as well if they start spraying the water out of the
pond for some reason... heavy wind day or it gets moved for some reason.

I've read about using a plastic water trough for farm animals as a liner too
which is more sturdy. You might be able to find these used real cheap but
they don't have the different levels like you could get with a pond liner
but they are probably cheaper than a good pond liner. I think they are 300G
containers and are oval shaped. With a liner, you can make your design
however you want but the cost would be more.

Using the dimensions you provided, your pond will be around 187 gallons
(using this site http://www.fishpondinfo.com/calc.htm ) but will probably be
less once you add the liner so if you get long bodied goldfish, you will
only be able to have a few. With round bodied, you could have about 6 but
YOU CANNOT GET THEM ALL AT ONCE. They do not over-winter as well as
long-bodied goldfish. Just one or two at a time and you will have to cycle
the pond and test your water just like a tank but it's not as bad since it's
a bigger volume of water and outdoors which allows for rain, more plants,
etc. My Blog pre-filter/bio-filter relies on Anacharis as part of the
system so that will help you keep your water crystal clear along with the
filter system. I'm sure you will have other water plants too.. like lilies
to cover about 1/2 of the pond to help give it shade and protect the fish
from bird predators. You'll find out if you have raccoons or other land
predators after you build the pond.

Here's my blog post to start you off.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/pond-maintenance-q-about-algae-bloom.h
tml

This guy left a comment on my Blog and his site is pretty good and he has a
free e-Book download on his filter system and pond.

http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/pond.shtml

His eBook download link:

http://www.jpgo.co.uk/trk/Download_DIY_Bio-Filter_Ebook.php

This is a pretty good site too... Robyn's Pond Site and there is a Yahoo
Group thing to sign up for to get her Yahoo distributed newsletter but it's
not a forum to ask questions, although there may be forums associated with
her site... I haven't been there in a while:

http://www.fishpondinfo.com/pond.htm

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pondnews

There's quite a few Yahoo Groups for ponds but most of them aren't moderated
and get tons of spam. This one is OK but doesn't get a lot of activity.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ponds_and_plants/

This site has some pictures and diagrams and instructions.

http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_wg.html

As does this one... but this site overall recommends too many chemical fixes
but the instructions will probably help.

http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/BuildPond/buildpond.htm

This is another eBook type site but you have to send them your email info...
I use a secondary email addy for these types of sites.. just in case of
spam.

http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondebook.htm

I used to have a ton more links and other downloadable eBook but I lost my
"Favorites" folder when my hard drive froze up on my laptop and I didn't
have the Favorites backed up. You can Google for lots of other pond sites
but use caution about the sites that are pushing their chemicals or
recommend chemical fixes for everything. Just like with tanks, if you have
a proper biology/ecology, your pond will function reasonably well.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21401 From: Don Young Date: 3/15/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Hello and thanks for the reply. I am planing on a few large goldfish or koi. The turtle are a little smaller than your hand and they will only be there during the spring or fall. I plan on a DIY approach that i why I am trying to lear a lot now. I will look at your blog and check out all the links. Thanks

Don


NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
Your turtles will most likely eat any fish you have unless it's a really big
pond. Reconsider mixing them.

Is this going to be a DIY project or were you going to use a contractor to
build your pond?

Here is a starting point of articles.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/index.html

Here is a post I recently did on another forum..

Go to my Blog Post about a DIY pump pre-filter/bio-filter that you can make
for around $10.00 (not including the pump and fountain that you will need
regardless to keep your pond aerated). You will also need a good liner...
probably the most important thing since I've read horror stories of ponds
leaking. Also be careful of fountains and water falls as they have led to
draining a small pond as well if they start spraying the water out of the
pond for some reason... heavy wind day or it gets moved for some reason.

I've read about using a plastic water trough for farm animals as a liner too
which is more sturdy. You might be able to find these used real cheap but
they don't have the different levels like you could get with a pond liner
but they are probably cheaper than a good pond liner. I think they are 300G
containers and are oval shaped. With a liner, you can make your design
however you want but the cost would be more.

Using the dimensions you provided, your pond will be around 187 gallons
(using this site http://www.fishpondinfo.com/calc.htm ) but will probably be
less once you add the liner so if you get long bodied goldfish, you will
only be able to have a few. With round bodied, you could have about 6 but
YOU CANNOT GET THEM ALL AT ONCE. They do not over-winter as well as
long-bodied goldfish. Just one or two at a time and you will have to cycle
the pond and test your water just like a tank but it's not as bad since it's
a bigger volume of water and outdoors which allows for rain, more plants,
etc. My Blog pre-filter/bio-filter relies on Anacharis as part of the
system so that will help you keep your water crystal clear along with the
filter system. I'm sure you will have other water plants too.. like lilies
to cover about 1/2 of the pond to help give it shade and protect the fish
from bird predators. You'll find out if you have raccoons or other land
predators after you build the pond.

Here's my blog post to start you off.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/pond-maintenance-q-about-algae-bloom.h
tml

This guy left a comment on my Blog and his site is pretty good and he has a
free e-Book download on his filter system and pond.

http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/pond.shtml

His eBook download link:

http://www.jpgo.co.uk/trk/Download_DIY_Bio-Filter_Ebook.php

This is a pretty good site too... Robyn's Pond Site and there is a Yahoo
Group thing to sign up for to get her Yahoo distributed newsletter but it's
not a forum to ask questions, although there may be forums associated with
her site... I haven't been there in a while:

http://www.fishpondinfo.com/pond.htm

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pondnews

There's quite a few Yahoo Groups for ponds but most of them aren't moderated
and get tons of spam. This one is OK but doesn't get a lot of activity.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ponds_and_plants/

This site has some pictures and diagrams and instructions.

http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_wg.html

As does this one... but this site overall recommends too many chemical fixes
but the instructions will probably help.

http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/BuildPond/buildpond.htm

This is another eBook type site but you have to send them your email info...
I use a secondary email addy for these types of sites.. just in case of
spam.

http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondebook.htm

I used to have a ton more links and other downloadable eBook but I lost my
"Favorites" folder when my hard drive froze up on my laptop and I didn't
have the Favorites backed up. You can Google for lots of other pond sites
but use caution about the sites that are pushing their chemicals or
recommend chemical fixes for everything. Just like with tanks, if you have
a proper biology/ecology, your pond will function reasonably well.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com






---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21402 From: gorsford Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: question: buying freshwater plants online
this is the link:
http://www.pets-warehouse.com/AquariumPlants6.htm#s
it says the price is 12=$6.88 does it mean 12 plants for 6.88?
or i have to buy 12 to get that price?

It seems like paying 6.88 for 12 plants is more logical in the way
they say it
but isn't it a lil bit too cheap?
and try to click on the common name, the pice is a little bit off.
I am confuse, help
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21403 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: YAY! LFS Job!
I just got a job at our local fish store..hehe! They are a mom and pop store that is soooo great about educating people on their purchases, they carry GREAT live plants and run really good deals on tank set ups. The owner is a friend of a friend kind of deal and he heard I knew about fish and that I wanted some weekend/evening part time work. He actually called ME.
I am sooo excited. This is the perfect set up for me since I don't have any tanks set up of my own....yay!!!! I'll get paid for fullfilling my addiction!

~Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21404 From: glaucus25 Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Hello,

UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

This is a request from someone who I agreed to find out more, him not
being Internet-savvy.
What is the best place or way (excahnge) to get the more unusual fish
as the aquarium shops are a bit like supermarkets nowadays. Freshwater
sole were mentioned.

I am a wild caught marine fishkeeper, so I do not have this problem.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21405 From: mi_vida_muyloca Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: YAY! LFS Job!
Congratulations!!!

Sounds great! Best of luck.

=O)
Maria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21406 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Andy,
I am not in the UK but in the US many of the non chain store fish shops can order uncommon fish if asked. They usually get their stock from a wholesaler that distributes them a list of available fish. The stores usually just stock what they are confident will sell. Have your friend present the store with a list of desired fish. They may be able to acquire the fish for him/her.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Glaucus@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 11:51 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish


Hello,

UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

This is a request from someone who I agreed to find out more, him not
being Internet-savvy.
What is the best place or way (excahnge) to get the more unusual fish
as the aquarium shops are a bit like supermarkets nowadays. Freshwater
sole were mentioned.

I am a wild caught marine fishkeeper, so I do not have this problem.

Andy



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21407 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish (NOW U.S.)
Even many chain stores can order uncommon fish. The below website is a
distributor to many chains and LFS's in the U.S.

http://www.segrestfarms.com/catalog.ihtml is the catalog page where you can
view their entire catalog or check on a specific fish. Once you know what
is available to your store, you can request that they order it/them for you.

http://www.segrestfarms.com/locator.ihtml is the locator page where you can
find a store in your area that is on their distribution list. I see a
couple of LFS and my local PetsMart on their list.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

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-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 5:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

Andy,
I am not in the UK but in the US many of the non chain store fish shops can
order uncommon fish if asked. They usually get their stock from a
wholesaler that distributes them a list of available fish. The stores
usually just stock what they are confident will sell. Have your friend
present the store with a list of desired fish. They may be able to acquire
the fish for him/her.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Glaucus@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 11:51 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish


Hello,

UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

This is a request from someone who I agreed to find out more, him not being
Internet-savvy.
What is the best place or way (excahnge) to get the more unusual fish as the
aquarium shops are a bit like supermarkets nowadays. Freshwater sole were
mentioned.

I am a wild caught marine fishkeeper, so I do not have this problem.

Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21408 From: Cina Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
What are you going to do with your turtles after that?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Don Young <brakemanpr@...> wrote:
>
> Hello and thanks for the reply. I am planing on a few large
goldfish or koi. The turtle are a little smaller than your hand and
they will only be there during the spring or fall. I plan on a DIY
approach that i why I am trying to lear a lot now. I will look at
your blog and check out all the links. Thanks
>
> Don
>
>
> NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote:
> Your turtles will most likely eat any fish you have
unless it's a really big
> pond. Reconsider mixing them.
>
> Is this going to be a DIY project or were you going to use a
contractor to
> build your pond?
>
> Here is a starting point of articles.
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/index.html
>
> Here is a post I recently did on another forum..
>
> Go to my Blog Post about a DIY pump pre-filter/bio-filter that you
can make
> for around $10.00 (not including the pump and fountain that you
will need
> regardless to keep your pond aerated). You will also need a good
liner...
> probably the most important thing since I've read horror stories of
ponds
> leaking. Also be careful of fountains and water falls as they have
led to
> draining a small pond as well if they start spraying the water out
of the
> pond for some reason... heavy wind day or it gets moved for some
reason.
>
> I've read about using a plastic water trough for farm animals as a
liner too
> which is more sturdy. You might be able to find these used real
cheap but
> they don't have the different levels like you could get with a pond
liner
> but they are probably cheaper than a good pond liner. I think they
are 300G
> containers and are oval shaped. With a liner, you can make your
design
> however you want but the cost would be more.
>
> Using the dimensions you provided, your pond will be around 187
gallons
> (using this site http://www.fishpondinfo.com/calc.htm ) but will
probably be
> less once you add the liner so if you get long bodied goldfish, you
will
> only be able to have a few. With round bodied, you could have about
6 but
> YOU CANNOT GET THEM ALL AT ONCE. They do not over-winter as well as
> long-bodied goldfish. Just one or two at a time and you will have
to cycle
> the pond and test your water just like a tank but it's not as bad
since it's
> a bigger volume of water and outdoors which allows for rain, more
plants,
> etc. My Blog pre-filter/bio-filter relies on Anacharis as part of
the
> system so that will help you keep your water crystal clear along
with the
> filter system. I'm sure you will have other water plants too.. like
lilies
> to cover about 1/2 of the pond to help give it shade and protect
the fish
> from bird predators. You'll find out if you have raccoons or other
land
> predators after you build the pond.
>
> Here's my blog post to start you off.
>
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/pond-maintenance-q-about-
algae-bloom.h
> tml
>
> This guy left a comment on my Blog and his site is pretty good and
he has a
> free e-Book download on his filter system and pond.
>
> http://leisure.prior-it.co.uk/pond.shtml
>
> His eBook download link:
>
> http://www.jpgo.co.uk/trk/Download_DIY_Bio-Filter_Ebook.php
>
> This is a pretty good site too... Robyn's Pond Site and there is a
Yahoo
> Group thing to sign up for to get her Yahoo distributed newsletter
but it's
> not a forum to ask questions, although there may be forums
associated with
> her site... I haven't been there in a while:
>
> http://www.fishpondinfo.com/pond.htm
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pondnews
>
> There's quite a few Yahoo Groups for ponds but most of them aren't
moderated
> and get tons of spam. This one is OK but doesn't get a lot of
activity.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ponds_and_plants/
>
> This site has some pictures and diagrams and instructions.
>
> http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_wg.html
>
> As does this one... but this site overall recommends too many
chemical fixes
> but the instructions will probably help.
>
> http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/BuildPond/buildpond.htm
>
> This is another eBook type site but you have to send them your
email info...
> I use a secondary email addy for these types of sites.. just in
case of
> spam.
>
> http://clearwaterlandscapes.com/pondebook.htm
>
> I used to have a ton more links and other downloadable eBook but I
lost my
> "Favorites" folder when my hard drive froze up on my laptop and I
didn't
> have the Favorites backed up. You can Google for lots of other pond
sites
> but use caution about the sites that are pushing their chemicals or
> recommend chemical fixes for everything. Just like with tanks, if
you have
> a proper biology/ecology, your pond will function reasonably well.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21409 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/16/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that supports wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There should still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water stay less hot.

Look in your phone book to see if there are any relatively local pond stores. They should be able to help you a lot. Most of my experience with ponds comes in New England, where are idea of a hot summer day is near 80 degrees, and we may only get a few of them.

\\Steve//

________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Don Young
Sent: Thu 3/15/2007 12:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Advice on a pond



I am looking at setting up a pond in my back yard. I live in Vegas,
and weather can be a problem. The winters are not bad lows in the 30's
but the highs in the summer of 110 might be tough. I am looking at
either the preformed or the liner. I would like to have live lants but
ai am not sure what would do good here. I would like to be fish at
sometime, as well as a place for my two redear slider turtles. I have
been looking at the filters and pums but have not decided on which way
to go. Does anyone have any ideas of where I can go for info. Also if
anyone is from Vegas let me know. Thanks

Don




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21410 From: Memrie Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: HI!
I am Mem, mom to almost 7 kids and new to the fish world. Though I am
learning. I am up to 3 10 gal tanks, 1 55 gal tank, 1 5 gal tank, and
1 2 gal tank. I have 4 adult platies and 1 guppy in a 10 gal, 3 golds
in another, an unknown that I was given with the 3rd 10 gal. (I plan
on finding out what he is Tue from LFS) 2 brim in the 55 gal tank and
my brood of 8 fry in the 2 gal. my goal is to cycle out the 5 gal to
set up for my babies as they grow. Not sure what to do about the brim
(kids are attached to what they caught) and the goldfish. I want to
make a pond but that will take about another year or so. Anyway,
things are going ok. I have lost 4 platies in the learning curve but
hopefully these will do ok.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21411 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
a Pergola?

In a message dated 3/16/2007 8:05:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:

One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your pond to help
prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot recall what it is called,
but a structure over the pond that supports wide boards stood on the
thickness edge can help here. There should still be enough light for your plants,
and it will help the water stay less hot.

Look in your phone book to see if there are any relatively local pond
stores. They should be able to help you a lot. Most of my experience with ponds
comes in New England, where are idea of a hot summer day is near 80 degrees, and
we may only get a few of them.

\\Steve//






************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21412 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: HI!
Welcome to the group.

The goldfish need to be in a bigger tank too. They get much too large for a
10G tank. They would do much better in the 55G tank. That's really the
minimum sized tank that a goldfish should have. If they are the
round-bodied type (grow to 8" body length), you could have three in the 55G
as long as you have good filtration and do frequent PWC's (partial water
changes). If they are long-bodied types (grow to 12"+ body length), they'll
do OK, short term, in the 55G but they'll really thrive in your proposed
pond. Here's a good and concise four part article on keeping Goldfish.
Click the link at the bottom of each page to go to the next page.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html

How big are the brim?

As far as "almost 7 kids", does that mean you're pregnant? Or do you
consider hubby a kid too? ;)

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 9:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HI!

I am Mem, mom to almost 7 kids and new to the fish world. Though I am
learning. I am up to 3 10 gal tanks, 1 55 gal tank, 1 5 gal tank, and
1 2 gal tank. I have 4 adult platies and 1 guppy in a 10 gal, 3 golds in
another, an unknown that I was given with the 3rd 10 gal. (I plan on finding
out what he is Tue from LFS) 2 brim in the 55 gal tank and my brood of 8 fry
in the 2 gal. my goal is to cycle out the 5 gal to set up for my babies as
they grow. Not sure what to do about the brim (kids are attached to what
they caught) and the goldfish. I want to make a pond but that will take
about another year or so. Anyway, things are going ok. I have lost 4 platies
in the learning curve but hopefully these will do ok.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21413 From: dansant5 Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your
pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot
recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that supports
wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There should
still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water
stay less hot.


That would look nice with a pond! Another option, or for providing
additional shade, is to use Water Lilies, & floating plants like
Water Lettuce & Water Hyacinth. Hardy, (as opposed to tropical),
Water Lilies will winter over in colder climates, & although Water
Lettuce & Water Hyacinth won't winter over you only need to add a few
plants when the weather warms up & they spread rapidly.

Good luck with the pond! I'm curious as to whether a pond liner will
hold up in the long run to a turtle's claws, although the liners are
quite thick, & preformed ponds are always another option.

Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21414 From: dansant5 Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Freak Fish WAS: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Danios
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I've wanted to get back to this topic, but just plain have not had
the
> time to do so until now.
>
> Some of the other fish commonly altered by man have been bettas and
> guppies, though they have not been toyed with for as long as koi and
> goldfish. Guppies and goldfish are rather malleable genetically. If
one
> were able to go to the wild and collect a number of either of these
fish
> and maintain them through many generations, it would be noted that
some
> have changes in body shape, coloration, and/or finnage.


Steve & all,

I know that this is a very old thread, but wanted to let you know
that someone besides the Sci. people finds it interesting. I always
read the detailed stuff, although I admit to skimming a little bit if
it's not something that I'm really involved in at the time.

I also prefer the natural varieties of fish, but at the same time I
like a few of the fancy goldfish varieties, fancy Guppies, fancy
Bettas, Veil Angels, & long finned Swordtails. Can't think of any
other `mutant' forms that I'm particularly fond of, but I guess in
some ways with regards to the many different facets of this hobby,
it's a matter of taste, or personal preference. Heck, I've kept
common Sunfish, Shiners & minnows in a tank & really enjoyed them.

Presently I only have 3 small planted tanks & am enjoying some
Endler's, but I can keep innumerable fish vicariously through reading
& imagining.

Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21415 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish
Also, in line with what Mike has said, some fish are seasonal--you can
only get them at certain times of the year. Since most of the fish I buy
are from sources other than stores, I've sort of lost track of what may
be available when, but a good example might be the clown loach.

All of a sudden one will see that nearly everyone has clown loaches in
stock. They are all relatively small in size, but the are readily
available for about a month or so. Then they will seemingly disappear
from dealer's tanks. Sure, if you look for them, you may find them here
or there, but they are no longer readily available. And, when they are,
they are available a larger and larger sizes, with an increase in the
price of the ones you had seen earlier. That is because these are either
leftovers, or those that have been deliberately held from the market
when everyone had them, and slowly released to the market. The increase
in price reflects the holding costs of those fish during that period. A
year goes by, and suddenly everyone has small clown loaches again.

The clown loach is not the only fish that is not readily available year
round, there are many others. Most of these fish are also wild caught,
so you are experiencing the natural fluctuations of the populations in
the wild.

Kind of like fresh strawberries. You can get them most times of the
year, if you look for them, but they are only really cheap in the summer
when the crops come in.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 6:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

Andy,
I am not in the UK but in the US many of the non chain store fish shops
can order uncommon fish if asked. They usually get their stock from a
wholesaler that distributes them a list of available fish. The stores
usually just stock what they are confident will sell. Have your friend
present the store with a list of desired fish. They may be able to
acquire the fish for him/her.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Glaucus@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 16 Mar 2007 11:51 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish


Hello,

UK Stockists of the Rarer Freshwater Fish

This is a request from someone who I agreed to find out more, him not
being Internet-savvy.
What is the best place or way (excahnge) to get the more unusual fish
as the aquarium shops are a bit like supermarkets nowadays. Freshwater
sole were mentioned.

I am a wild caught marine fishkeeper, so I do not have this problem.

Andy



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
`..><((((>.`..`.><((((> .`.. , .`..><((((>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<((((><.`..`.<((((><.`.. , .`..<((((><`..
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21416 From: Debbie Swick Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: YAY! LFS Job!
Congratulations! !! I know the feeling... It would be a dream if I got a job in a Quilt Shop. Hopefully you bring home your paycheck and not spend it in the store first.... Have fun and enjoy the new job... Debbie/ca



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21417 From: John Hawley Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Petition from a hobbyist in Southern California
A Petition In Support of AKCA Judges Exercising Their 1st Amendment
Internet Freedoms

TO: The ASSOCIATED KOI CLUBS OF AMERICA (AKCA)

Chairperson - Larry Levertt
Vice Chairperson - Harlan Glenn
Secretary - Carol Elliott
Chief Financial Officer - Doug Dahl
Judging Committee - Bob Finnegan

FROM: THE UNDERSIGNED MEMBERS OF THE INTERNET KOI COMMUNITY

Whereas the AKCA was founded circa 1979; and

Whereas from their inception the AKCA has always sought to represent
the best interests of the hobby; and

Whereas the AKCA is a non-profit organization created to promote the
hobby of keeping, breeding, appreciating and exhibiting Koi through
various and sundry programs; and

Whereas there are approximately 104 AKCA affiliated clubs in North
America, representing an estimated 5,000 to 6,000 members of the koi
hobby, of which probably less than 600 are truly hard-core; and

Whereas these clubs put on over 30 AKCA Koi Shows each year; and

Whereas these shows constitute the heart of the AKCA outreach program
by disguising education as competition, while at the same time
celebrating the hobby, promoting friendships and attracting new
members; and

Whereas these shows are judged by an AKCA corps of approximately 27
Certified Judges and 5 Candidate Judges; and

Whereas the AKCA Judging Committee is under the direct personal
supervision of Bob Finnegan; and

Whereas these AKCA Judges give unstintingly of their time, effort,
experience and expertise without compensation &/or remuneration to
judge these shows; and

Whereas there is a smaller cadre of AKCA Judges who (over and above
their judging duties) give unstintingly of their time, effort,
experience and expertise by participating on internet koi forums; and

Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, do most
thoroughly enjoy, appreciate and applaud these internet AKCA Judges as
our teachers, mentors and friends; and

Whereas these internet AKCA Judges all use disclaimers specifying they
are posting as individuals, and that their opinions do not reflect
those of any organizations to which they might belong, or positions
which they might hold; and

Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, feel diminished
in our hobby when the 1st Amendment internet freedoms of our teachers,
mentors and friends are threatened or abridged by the AKCA in its
individual, organizational or institutional capacity; and

Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, feel such
diminishment is not in the best interests of the AKCA, in particular,
nor the hobby in general; and

Whereas the AKCA has flourished by utilizing a light (not heavy) hand
with its associated clubs; and

Whereas we, the undersigned members of said internet koi forums, feel
that that light handed approach would best serve as a model towards
dealing with the non-judging internet activities of AKCA Judges; THEN

WE, the undersigned members of said internet koi forums, do hereby
PETITION the AKCA to forthwith discontinue, disavow, eschew and
forever foreswear the use, or threatened use, of organizational
sanctions against Judges for exercising their 1st Amendment internet
freedoms -- with the caveat that said AKCA Judges shall at all times
continue to show the appropriate degree of respect towards the AKCA,
its offices and its Officers.

Dated this 13th day of March, 2007

Signed:

1. & 2. Don & Brenda Chandler
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
'Agua Caliente Ponds'
ZNA, Southern California
Koi Kichi & Water Garden Club, AKCA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21418 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Yes, that is it. I am not at home this weekend, so have no references
ready to look it up so I could even do a search on it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 1:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Advice on a pond


a Pergola?

In a message dated 3/16/2007 8:05:32 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:

One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your pond to
help
prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot recall what it is
called,
but a structure over the pond that supports wide boards stood on the
thickness edge can help here. There should still be enough light for
your plants,
and it will help the water stay less hot.

Look in your phone book to see if there are any relatively local pond
stores. They should be able to help you a lot. Most of my experience
with ponds
comes in New England, where are idea of a hot summer day is near 80
degrees, and
we may only get a few of them.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21419 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
The big problem he is going to have is with water temperature, with the
heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still allow
him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional shading
for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.

As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has experience
in such an environment to build a successful pond.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dansant5
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 4:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Advice on a pond

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your
pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot
recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that supports
wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There should
still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water
stay less hot.


That would look nice with a pond! Another option, or for providing
additional shade, is to use Water Lilies, & floating plants like
Water Lettuce & Water Hyacinth. Hardy, (as opposed to tropical),
Water Lilies will winter over in colder climates, & although Water
Lettuce & Water Hyacinth won't winter over you only need to add a few
plants when the weather warms up & they spread rapidly.

Good luck with the pond! I'm curious as to whether a pond liner will
hold up in the long run to a turtle's claws, although the liners are
quite thick, & preformed ponds are always another option.

Dan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21420 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/17/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Steve,
I just found a resource for him.
_http://lasvegaskoiclub.com/cms/mos/Frontpage/_
(http://lasvegaskoiclub.com/cms/mos/Frontpage/)
They have a meeting this March 24th and 27th.

Mike

In a message dated 3/17/2007 9:06:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:

The big problem he is going to have is with water temperature, with the
heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still allow
him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional shading
for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.

As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has experience
in such an environment to build a successful pond.

\\Steve//





************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21421 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: HI!
> How big are the brim?

The brim have been sent back to their orginal home. I convinced the
kids that they seemed to be losing weight and were gettting sick
because they missed their families. So now the goldfish are in the
55 gal tank. I went to the fish store (love pet lover's warehouse)
to get some bs for my moms weekly fedding of them, and they had
platies and mollies for 15 cent! I just could not help myself. I
got six of each as they are quite small and am going to put them in
the new 10 gal tank and the 5 gal tank. My fry are growing and are
almost 2 weeks old and starting to get their colors.
>
> As far as "almost 7 kids", does that mean you're pregnant? Or do
you
> consider hubby a kid too? ;)

If I considered hubby a kids too I would have 8. I am expecting
another baby in July though I won't make it. Mid to late June is
about as far as I will get. (Long story, if you want to know e-mail
me) Was only planning on 3 kids but they just seemed to keep
coming. LOL


Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21422 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
working today so I went to another guy who is a self
proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know what
this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if I
took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am tryign
to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
month
and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never be
able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter, a
water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
have
to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a breeder
or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom that
died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign something
right. Right?

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21423 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem
All the info you need is in this group. The tank is worth $14.00 the fish sounds like a galaxy rasbora renamed pearl danio. It retails for $5.00 here in Pa. I would keep the tank and the fish. Start over we will help.

Harry

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
working today so I went to another guy who is a self
proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know what
this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if I
took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am tryign
to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
month
and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never be
able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter, a
water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
have
to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a breeder
or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom that
died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign something
right. Right?

Mem






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21424 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem
TY Harry. Do you know if he is compatable with platies? Is he a
community fish? Livebearer or egg layer?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> All the info you need is in this group. The tank is worth $14.00
the fish sounds like a galaxy rasbora renamed pearl danio. It retails
for $5.00 here in Pa. I would keep the tank and the fish. Start over
we will help.
>
> Harry
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: I
went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
what
> this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
> was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if
I
> took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
tryign
> to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
> doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
> month
> and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never
be
> able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
> tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter,
a
> water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
> have
> to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
breeder
> or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom
that
> died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
something
> right. Right?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21425 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
First off is this your fish?

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=557

Harry

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: TY Harry. Do you know if he is compatable with platies? Is he a
community fish? Livebearer or egg layer?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> All the info you need is in this group. The tank is worth $14.00
the fish sounds like a galaxy rasbora renamed pearl danio. It retails
for $5.00 here in Pa. I would keep the tank and the fish. Start over
we will help.
>
> Harry
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: I
went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
what
> this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
> was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if
I
> took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
tryign
> to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
> doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
> month
> and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never
be
> able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
> tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter,
a
> water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
> have
> to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
breeder
> or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom
that
> died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
something
> right. Right?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get your own web address.
> Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel bargains.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21426 From: Memrie Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
Sorry I was not able to view as I am not a subscriber.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> First off is this your fish?
>
> http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
article_id=557
>
> Harry
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: TY
Harry. Do you know if he is compatable with platies? Is he a
> community fish? Livebearer or egg layer?
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@>
> wrote:
> >
> > All the info you need is in this group. The tank is worth $14.00
> the fish sounds like a galaxy rasbora renamed pearl danio. It
retails
> for $5.00 here in Pa. I would keep the tank and the fish. Start
over
> we will help.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: I
> went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> > working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> > proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> > breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
> what
> > this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He
said it
> > was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free
if
> I
> > took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
> tryign
> > to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> > preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I
was
> > doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once
a
> > month
> > and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should
never
> be
> > able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of
my
> > tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my
filter,
> a
> > water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp
and i
> > have
> > to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
> breeder
> > or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my
mom
> that
> > died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
> something
> > right. Right?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Get your own web address.
> > Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21427 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!/Mem/again
Ok assuming galaxy rasbora. An egg layer and a community fish. Very small?
Will be compatable. Be careful he gets enough to eat.

Harry

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: Sorry I was not able to view as I am not a subscriber.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> First off is this your fish?
>
> http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
article_id=557
>
> Harry
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: TY
Harry. Do you know if he is compatable with platies? Is he a
> community fish? Livebearer or egg layer?
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@>
> wrote:
> >
> > All the info you need is in this group. The tank is worth $14.00
> the fish sounds like a galaxy rasbora renamed pearl danio. It
retails
> for $5.00 here in Pa. I would keep the tank and the fish. Start
over
> we will help.
> >
> > Harry
> >
> > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: I
> went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> > working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> > proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> > breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
> what
> > this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He
said it
> > was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free
if
> I
> > took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
> tryign
> > to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> > preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I
was
> > doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once
a
> > month
> > and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should
never
> be
> > able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of
my
> > tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my
filter,
> a
> > water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp
and i
> > have
> > to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
> breeder
> > or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my
mom
> that
> > died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
> something
> > right. Right?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Get your own web address.
> > Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Finding fabulous fares is fun.
> Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find
flight and hotel bargains.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through Yahoo! Small Business.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21428 From: Don Young Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Thanks for all the advice. I will look in to my local area and see what I can find. What I am worried about in the summer is the algie. How much of a problem will this cause. Thanks

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: The big problem he is going to have is with water temperature, with the
heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still allow
him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional shading
for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.

As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has experience
in such an environment to build a successful pond.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dansant5
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 4:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Advice on a pond

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your
pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot
recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that supports
wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There should
still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water
stay less hot.

That would look nice with a pond! Another option, or for providing
additional shade, is to use Water Lilies, & floating plants like
Water Lettuce & Water Hyacinth. Hardy, (as opposed to tropical),
Water Lilies will winter over in colder climates, & although Water
Lettuce & Water Hyacinth won't winter over you only need to add a few
plants when the weather warms up & they spread rapidly.

Good luck with the pond! I'm curious as to whether a pond liner will
hold up in the long run to a turtle's claws, although the liners are
quite thick, & preformed ponds are always another option.

Dan





---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21429 From: Don Young Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Thanks Mike and Steve I will check it out.

Don

Deenerz@... wrote:

Steve,
I just found a resource for him.
_http://lasvegaskoiclub.com/cms/mos/Frontpage/_
(http://lasvegaskoiclub.com/cms/mos/Frontpage/)
They have a meeting this March 24th and 27th.

Mike

In a message dated 3/17/2007 9:06:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:

The big problem he is going to have is with water temperature, with the
heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still allow
him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional shading
for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.

As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has experience
in such an environment to build a successful pond.

\\Steve//

************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21430 From: jennahook Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: PLEASE HELP
I was recently given a 55 gallon aquarium and stand, with a lot of
accessories.. I have no idea how to set it up. It's got what I think is
an underwater gravel filter, but I'm not sure if it has all the pieces.
I also have a fliter, a heater, and some air tubes and air stones.
Please help! Send me an email if you can help me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21431 From: harry perry Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP/Try this
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/beginner.htm

Harry

jennahook <jennahook@...> wrote: I was recently given a 55 gallon aquarium and stand, with a lot of
accessories.. I have no idea how to set it up. It's got what I think is
an underwater gravel filter, but I'm not sure if it has all the pieces.
I also have a fliter, a heater, and some air tubes and air stones.
Please help! Send me an email if you can help me...






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21432 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
The tank does not seem full for this guy. Weekly water changes should be
de rigueur. I have only kept a few species where I had to back off on my
normal water changing practices, since they would tend to go belly up if
I did a normal water change. They would still get a regular water
change, just not as much water was changed.

If your filter is doing its job, it will get dirty. Fact of life. When
it gets dirty enough to impede the water flow, it is time to clean it.

Your substrate will pick up detritus. Another fact of life. I always
clean a portion of the substrate bed, if there is one in the tank, with
each water change. It takes 3 or four weeks to finish the bed and then
it starts again.

For the amount the fish is worth, as a pearl danio, I'd not even bother
with a store credit, since it came with the tank. If it is truly in bad
shape, euthanize it, and go on with life.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 11:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Frustrated!

I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
working today so I went to another guy who is a self
proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know what
this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if I
took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am tryign
to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
month
and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never be
able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter, a
water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
have
to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a breeder
or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom that
died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign something
right. Right?

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21433 From: coryswalter Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Betta Buddies
I've been following advice on here about fish to put with my male
betta. He now has 2 corrie cats, a black and a gold angel fish, and 2
red platys. They are all co-existing so nicely......now, is there
anything I can put in there. I saw some really pretty rosy barbs at
the LFS today but didn't get them. I mentioned that I wanted to get
Scooter a female betta and the LFS lady said to get him 2 or 3 or he
would kill one of them mating with her. I guess they always do what
comes naturally instead of just happily living together. Thanks for
all of the wonderful advice......Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21434 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: PLEASE HELP
I did note that someone has already mentioned some web sites to you. You
are in for a bunch of reading before you even start to set up the tank.
Beside reading on the web, and perusing the archives here, you should
get yourself a good book to start. The Baensch Aquarium Atlas has a good
section on setting up a tank, as well as information on plants. It also
has a very large section (most of the book) on the various species of
fish that may be available to you. Be sure you have a basic
understanding of the nitrogen cycle, you need not worry about the
chemistry or the math, just what it is and what it does. Get a handle on
water quality, and the parameters that are normally tested, so you can
do the same for yourself. Then set up the tank.

You'll probably not need or want to use the undergravel filter.

Do your reading, and ask questions here to clarify what you don't
understand. While this hobby can be very interesting, relaxing,
frustrating, it will also be an expense to do it correctly. And
correctly you will need to do, else you will be one of those who never
make it to the aquarist stage. A friend of mine, Chuck Davis, put it
nicely, "The difference between a beginner and an expert is the price of
the fish they kill." And kill them you will. We all have.

So, get reading, and we'll hear from you shortly with your questions.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jennahook
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 4:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] PLEASE HELP

I was recently given a 55 gallon aquarium and stand, with a lot of
accessories.. I have no idea how to set it up. It's got what I think is
an underwater gravel filter, but I'm not sure if it has all the pieces.
I also have a fliter, a heater, and some air tubes and air stones.
Please help! Send me an email if you can help me...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21435 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Buddies
Hi Cory,

I don't know if mine are an exception but I have a male
and female betta together. I didn't start them out that
way originally but the female was too rough on my other
two females so I tried her in with the male. He does
chase her sometimes but that's it. They have been together
for a couple of months. I also have a cory in there with
them. So far so good.

Traci




Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> I've been following advice on here about fish to put with my male
> betta. He now has 2 corrie cats, a black and a gold angel fish, and 2
> red platys. They are all co-existing so nicely......now, is there
> anything I can put in there. I saw some really pretty rosy barbs at
> the LFS today but didn't get them. I mentioned that I wanted to get
> Scooter a female betta and the LFS lady said to get him 2 or 3 or he
> would kill one of them mating with her. I guess they always do what
> comes naturally instead of just happily living together. Thanks for
> all of the wonderful advice......Cory
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21436 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: feeding question
Hi All,

I wanted to see what folks do with multiple types of
fish in the same tank that all eat different things.
I have a cory, betta and neons in one tank and I have
been feeding three differnt types of feed. I have
noticed the water turning cloudy though and so I am
overfeeding them. The betta likes the floating pellets,
the cory gets the sinking pellets and I have small
flakes for the neons. What do you all do when you
feed yours? I was just curious...

Thanks,
Traci



<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21437 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Steve,
Indeed, the heat is the problem, thus a lot of plants in addition to
other measures such as the pergola will help. I wasn't disagreeing
with your suggestion, simply offering additional advice. In that
area tropical lilies might even last year round, but water Hyacinth
might be illegal due to its intrusive nature, blocking waterways in
warm climates. The local pond club or even pond supply stores in the
area will know about those common pond plants.

If costs need to be kept down, the shadow of the house can be used to
protect from direct sun for part of the day, if that location will
work with the landscape. In any event it would be best to avoid an
area that receives direct sun all day. Also, an area of deep water
will stay cooler, particularly so if lilies & floating plants are
used for shade in that area of the pond.

Dan


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The big problem he is going to have is with water temperature, with
the
> heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still
allow
> him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional
shading
> for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.
>
> As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has
experience
> in such an environment to build a successful pond.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of dansant5
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 4:20 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Advice on a pond
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your
> pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot
> recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that
supports
> wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There
should
> still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water
> stay less hot.
>
>
> That would look nice with a pond! Another option, or for providing
> additional shade, is to use Water Lilies, & floating plants like
> Water Lettuce & Water Hyacinth. Hardy, (as opposed to tropical),
> Water Lilies will winter over in colder climates, & although Water
> Lettuce & Water Hyacinth won't winter over you only need to add a
few
> plants when the weather warms up & they spread rapidly.
>
> Good luck with the pond! I'm curious as to whether a pond liner
will
> hold up in the long run to a turtle's claws, although the liners
are
> quite thick, & preformed ponds are always another option.
>
> Dan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21438 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Advice on a pond
Don

Plants & algae compete for the same nutrients, thus if you have a lot
of plants they will help to control algae growth. Water filtration
will also help, but as an extreme example, I keep one of my ponds, a
small one, in my vegetable garden, in full sun with a light fish load
of a few small comets & a small frog, & no filtration, (no exterior
electric available), & have never had a problem with algae. The key
is that I have a lot of plants, and not just to shade the surface. I
have a large clump of Yellow Iris that has a really big root ball.
Considering the small size of the pond, that clump of plants does a
good bit of filtration & it's a favorite of the fish, too. BTW, it's
not been uncommon in the past few years to have a week or more of
steady hundred degree temperatures here, & the fish have held up well
through it all, due mainly to the light fish loads, I believe.

Have fun with your pond!
Dan



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Don Young <brakemanpr@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the advice. I will look in to my local area and see
what I can find. What I am worried about in the summer is the
algie. How much of a problem will this cause. Thanks
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: The big problem he is going
to have is with water temperature, with the
> heat he describes he has in his area. Using the pergola will still
allow
> him to keep lilies, etc. as cover, as well as provide additional
shading
> for the pond and whatever environs are included under the structure.
>
> As I mentioned prior, he really needs to find someone who has
experience
> in such an environment to build a successful pond.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of dansant5
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 4:20 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Advice on a pond
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > One thing you will need to do is to provide some shade for your
> pond to help prevent the sun from warming it too much. I cannot
> recall what it is called, but a structure over the pond that
supports
> wide boards stood on the thickness edge can help here. There should
> still be enough light for your plants, and it will help the water
> stay less hot.
>
> That would look nice with a pond! Another option, or for providing
> additional shade, is to use Water Lilies, & floating plants like
> Water Lettuce & Water Hyacinth. Hardy, (as opposed to tropical),
> Water Lilies will winter over in colder climates, & although Water
> Lettuce & Water Hyacinth won't winter over you only need to add a
few
> plants when the weather warms up & they spread rapidly.
>
> Good luck with the pond! I'm curious as to whether a pond liner
will
> hold up in the long run to a turtle's claws, although the liners
are
> quite thick, & preformed ponds are always another option.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
> in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21439 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Did you get the tank for free as long as you took the fish from the SAME
store? Because then if he lets you return the fish for credit, he is losing
money on the 10 gallon tank!



Sounds like he could use a class in customer service skills. I agree with
him on the left over food, though not much else.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 11:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!



I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
working today so I went to another guy who is a self
proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know what
this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if I
took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am tryign
to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
month
and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never be
able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter, a
water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
have
to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a breeder
or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom that
died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign something
right. Right?

Mem





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21440 From: dansant5 Date: 3/18/2007
Subject: Re: Petition from a hobbyist in Southern California
Wow! That is one loooooooong single sentence! <g>
Dan

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "John Hawley" <pijoehawley@...>
wrote:
>
> A Petition In Support of AKCA Judges Exercising Their 1st Amendment
> Internet Freedoms
>
> TO: The ASSOCIATED KOI CLUBS OF AMERICA (AKCA)
>
> Chairperson - Larry Levertt
> Vice Chairperson - Harlan Glenn
> Secretary - Carol Elliott
> Chief Financial Officer - Doug Dahl
> Judging Committee - Bob Finnegan
>
> FROM: THE UNDERSIGNED MEMBERS OF THE INTERNET KOI COMMUNITY
>
> Whereas the AKCA was founded circa 1979; and
>
> Whereas from their inception the AKCA has always sought to represent
> the best interests of the hobby; and
>
> Whereas the AKCA is a non-profit organization created to promote the
> hobby of keeping, breeding, appreciating and exhibiting Koi through
> various and sundry programs; and
>
> Whereas there are approximately 104 AKCA affiliated clubs in North
> America, representing an estimated 5,000 to 6,000 members of the koi
> hobby, of which probably less than 600 are truly hard-core; and
>
> Whereas these clubs put on over 30 AKCA Koi Shows each year; and
>
> Whereas these shows constitute the heart of the AKCA outreach
program
> by disguising education as competition, while at the same time
> celebrating the hobby, promoting friendships and attracting new
> members; and
>
> Whereas these shows are judged by an AKCA corps of approximately 27
> Certified Judges and 5 Candidate Judges; and
>
> Whereas the AKCA Judging Committee is under the direct personal
> supervision of Bob Finnegan; and
>
> Whereas these AKCA Judges give unstintingly of their time, effort,
> experience and expertise without compensation &/or remuneration to
> judge these shows; and
>
> Whereas there is a smaller cadre of AKCA Judges who (over and above
> their judging duties) give unstintingly of their time, effort,
> experience and expertise by participating on internet koi forums;
and
>
> Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, do most
> thoroughly enjoy, appreciate and applaud these internet AKCA Judges
as
> our teachers, mentors and friends; and
>
> Whereas these internet AKCA Judges all use disclaimers specifying
they
> are posting as individuals, and that their opinions do not reflect
> those of any organizations to which they might belong, or positions
> which they might hold; and
>
> Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, feel diminished
> in our hobby when the 1st Amendment internet freedoms of our
teachers,
> mentors and friends are threatened or abridged by the AKCA in its
> individual, organizational or institutional capacity; and
>
> Whereas we, the members of said internet koi forums, feel such
> diminishment is not in the best interests of the AKCA, in
particular,
> nor the hobby in general; and
>
> Whereas the AKCA has flourished by utilizing a light (not heavy)
hand
> with its associated clubs; and
>
> Whereas we, the undersigned members of said internet koi forums,
feel
> that that light handed approach would best serve as a model towards
> dealing with the non-judging internet activities of AKCA Judges;
THEN
>
> WE, the undersigned members of said internet koi forums, do hereby
> PETITION the AKCA to forthwith discontinue, disavow, eschew and
> forever foreswear the use, or threatened use, of organizational
> sanctions against Judges for exercising their 1st Amendment internet
> freedoms -- with the caveat that said AKCA Judges shall at all times
> continue to show the appropriate degree of respect towards the AKCA,
> its offices and its Officers.
>
> Dated this 13th day of March, 2007
>
> Signed:
>
> 1. & 2. Don & Brenda Chandler
> Costa Mesa, CA 92627
> 'Agua Caliente Ponds'
> ZNA, Southern California
> Koi Kichi & Water Garden Club, AKCA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21441 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
No, I got the tank from a friend of mine. She had the fish and did
not want not could not take care of the fish. As for the left over
food, it was happening when my guppy was about to drop. I did not
realize she was not eating so I had some left over food for a couple
of days.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Did you get the tank for free as long as you took the fish from the
SAME
> store? Because then if he lets you return the fish for credit, he
is losing
> money on the 10 gallon tank!
>
>
>
> Sounds like he could use a class in customer service skills. I
agree with
> him on the left over food, though not much else.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 11:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
>
>
>
> I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know what
> this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said it
> was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free if I
> took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
tryign
> to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I was
> doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
> month
> and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should never
be
> able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
> tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my filter, a
> water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and i
> have
> to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a breeder
> or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom
that
> died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
something
> right. Right?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21442 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
Um, how did I get spammed? What did I do wrong?

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> No, I got the tank from a friend of mine. She had the fish and did
> not want not could not take care of the fish. As for the left over
> food, it was happening when my guppy was about to drop. I did not
> realize she was not eating so I had some left over food for a
couple
> of days.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Did you get the tank for free as long as you took the fish from
the
> SAME
> > store? Because then if he lets you return the fish for credit,
he
> is losing
> > money on the 10 gallon tank!
> >
> >
> >
> > Sounds like he could use a class in customer service skills. I
> agree with
> > him on the left over food, though not much else.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Memrie
> > Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 11:35 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
> >
> >
> >
> > I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> > working today so I went to another guy who is a self
> > proclaimed "professional". I will give him credit for being a
> > breeder. He breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
what
> > this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said
it
> > was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free
if I
> > took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
> tryign
> > to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> > preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I
was
> > doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
> > month
> > and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should
never
> be
> > able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
> > tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my
filter, a
> > water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and
i
> > have
> > to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
breeder
> > or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom
> that
> > died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
> something
> > right. Right?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21443 From: Aaron Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
"[SPAM]" happems when replies are not edited to remove the previous
posts, to prevent this - which causes delays in messages being seen
as they wait for a moderators approval - please "snip" the thread
when you reply to delete the other messages as requested in the
custom footer ->


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> Um, how did I get spammed? What did I do wrong?
>
> mem
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21444 From: Jenny & Wayne Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
Hi "Memrie"

We think your best bet is to ask any and all of your fish keeping questions right here with this group.

Cheers "Deltafolks"


---------------------------------
All new Yahoo! Mail
---------------------------------
Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21445 From: Stefanie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Need Help with Reef Tank
Hi,
I'm kinda new at this reef hobby, so any advice would be appreciated. I have a 46 gallon tank with cylinder filtration system. However, some of my corals won't open up, while others are doing great. The NO3 is slightly high, but still in the normal range. The pH stays at a constant 8 and everything is great. The two corals I'm worried about are brains. I thought it might be the lights but I have VHOs and PC's over the tank and both corals are up high. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steffie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21446 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated!
Ty for explaining that. I guess I need to read the stuff at the bottom
too.
mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
> "[SPAM]" happems when replies are not edited to remove the previous
> posts, to prevent this - which causes delays in messages being seen
> as they wait for a moderators approval - please "snip" the thread
> when you reply to delete the other messages as requested in the
> custom footer ->
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21447 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Frustrated!
That seems to be what I am coming to understand. TY for your patience
with me.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jenny & Wayne <deltafolks@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi "Memrie"
>
> We think your best bet is to ask any and all of your fish keeping
questions right here with this group.
>
> Cheers "Deltafolks"
>

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21448 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
That's not you getting spammed. It's one of the people replying to your
message and they have their own computer spam filter that adds the [SPAM] to
the front of subjects it thinks might be spam. The person replying just did
not remove the [SPAM] from the subject so it looks like it's your topic...
but it's not.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 8:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!

Um, how did I get spammed? What did I do wrong?

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> No, I got the tank from a friend of mine. She had the fish and did
> not want not could not take care of the fish. As for the left over
> food, it was happening when my guppy was about to drop. I did not
> realize she was not eating so I had some left over food for a
couple
> of days.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Did you get the tank for free as long as you took the fish from
the
> SAME
> > store? Because then if he lets you return the fish for credit,
he
> is losing
> > money on the 10 gallon tank!
> >
> >
> >
> > Sounds like he could use a class in customer service skills. I
> agree with
> > him on the left over food, though not much else.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Memrie
> > Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 11:35 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Frustrated!
> >
> >
> >
> > I went today to get a mystery fish named. My local guru was not
> > working today so I went to another guy who is a self proclaimed
> > "professional". I will give him credit for being a breeder. He
> > breeds all his own stock so I figured he would know
what
> > this fish was. Well, he did. It was a pearl danio (sp?). He said
it
> > was in bad shape and very weak. (I got the 10 gal tank for free
if I
> > took the fish with it.) As he did not really go with what I am
> tryign
> > to do I agreed to give him in for store credit. This nut then
> > preceeded to GRILL me on my fish keeping practice. I was told I
was
> > doing it all wrong and I should only do a 25% water change once a
> > month and that my filter media should never be dirty, and I should
never
> be
> > able to get any left over food or fish waste from the bottom of my
> > tank. Now in order to get my credit, I have to take him my
filter, a
> > water sample, my gravel cleaning tool, my current water temp and
i
> > have
> > to stir the gravel and tell him if I "kick up dirt". Is he a
breeder
> > or an idiot? I have not lost a fish with the exception of my mom
> that
> > died shortly after giving birth in 3 months. I must be doign
> something
> > right. Right?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21449 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Need Help with Reef Tank
How long have you had the corals?
What kind of brains are they?
How many watts' per gallon do you have?
How many hours do you rum them?
How high is your no3?
What is the temp of the water?

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Stefanie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 10:45 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need Help with Reef Tank


Hi,
I'm kinda new at this reef hobby, so any advice would be appreciated. I have a 46 gallon tank with cylinder filtration system. However, some of my corals won't open up, while others are doing great. The NO3 is slightly high, but still in the normal range. The pH stays at a constant 8 and everything is great. The two corals I'm worried about are brains. I thought it might be the lights but I have VHOs and PC's over the tank and both corals are up high. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steffie





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 268.18.14/727 - Release Date: 3/19/2007 11:49 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21450 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: feeding question
I've always given my cories the same flake food I give the others in the
tank and they seem to be healthy and happy. Enough floats to the bottom for
them to get enough to eat. I don't have Bettas in the tank with the cories,
but, I've tried giving my Bettas flake food and they've never eaten it.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 1:08 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] feeding question


> Hi All,
>
> I wanted to see what folks do with multiple types of
> fish in the same tank that all eat different things.
> I have a cory, betta and neons in one tank and I have
> been feeding three differnt types of feed. I have
> noticed the water turning cloudy though and so I am
> overfeeding them. The betta likes the floating pellets,
> the cory gets the sinking pellets and I have small
> flakes for the neons. What do you all do when you
> feed yours? I was just curious...
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21451 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Buddies
Male Bettas usually do not do well with other Bettas. Some people have good
luck with them in tanks with plenty of hiding spots . Most people only have
males and females together for a brief time when they want to breed them.
Males can get very aggressive with other males and fight to the death, thus
the name Siamese Fighting Fish. If you want to get brave enough to try them
together, I suggest you watch them VERY closely and have another tank ready
to put one in if they fight.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2007 9:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Buddies


I've been following advice on here about fish to put with my male
betta. He now has 2 corrie cats, a black and a gold angel fish, and 2
red platys. They are all co-existing so nicely......now, is there
anything I can put in there. I saw some really pretty rosy barbs at
the LFS today but didn't get them. I mentioned that I wanted to get
Scooter a female betta and the LFS lady said to get him 2 or 3 or he
would kill one of them mating with her. I guess they always do what
comes naturally instead of just happily living together. Thanks for
all of the wonderful advice......Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21452 From: Kevin Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Which new tank to buy?
Well, the center
support of my 55 gallon finally cracked off (which I new was going to
eventaully happen due to my non-flat tank stand)!
So now, I need to replace the tank-but I'm going to get a different tank.
I HATE how most tank stands look, and I also hate the 55 gallon tanks
are so short from front to back. It makes aquascaping/planting quite
difficult.
I was going to upgrade to a 72 gallon bowfront from Oceanic with the
Stainless stand, but my landlord thinks it may weight too much to put in
my apartment (Neither of us are sure of the beam structure where I
want to put it)
So I'm considering the 46 gallon oceanic bowfront with the metal stand
- but I'm VERY upset about downsizing! does anyone have any
suggestions of other tanks/stands I may like that are close to 55-60
gallons, but have a bigger front to back footprint?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21453 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Which new tank to buy?
Kevin,
You can probably fix that and keep it.
The center piece often comes off over time.

Glass tank I assume?

If you put a piece of foam down like I mentioned in a previous email you will no longer have an uneven surface beneath your tank.

I just set up a 55 gallon acrylic tank on a bowed stand on Monday. (Acrylic is more sensitive to uneven surfaces) The wood piece was not bowed left to right but front to back. I put down a piece of the foam insulation that I mentioned and sat the tank on it and filled it. You can see the foam conform to the stand and the bottom of the tank as you are filling it. I know a guy that has a shop with at least 80 tanks and he does this with all of his tanks.

As for the weight of a larger tank, get a number for the weight of the empty tank and stand and add the water weight to that. I always round up to 10 lbs per gallon for a margin of error.

7200 lbs plus the tank and stand weight. That might be on the heavy side. When I try and figure out what the weight is I compare it to what a water bed would weigh.


FWIW

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kevin@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 19 Mar 2007 12:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Which new tank to buy?


Well, the center
support of my 55 gallon finally cracked off (which I new was going to
eventaully happen due to my non-flat tank stand)!
So now, I need to replace the tank-but I'm going to get a different tank.
I HATE how most tank stands look, and I also hate the 55 gallon tanks
are so short from front to back. It makes aquascaping/planting quite
difficult.
I was going to upgrade to a 72 gallon bowfront from Oceanic with the
Stainless stand, but my landlord thinks it may weight too much to put in
my apartment (Neither of us are sure of the beam structure where I
want to put it)
So I'm considering the 46 gallon oceanic bowfront with the metal stand
- but I'm VERY upset about downsizing! does anyone have any
suggestions of other tanks/stands I may like that are close to 55-60
gallons, but have a bigger front to back footprint?

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21454 From: IceHockeyMom Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: NEW email address
Please update your address book (crazyforcritters) my old address is no longer active, my new one is IceHockeyMom74@...

Thanks
Gayle

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21455 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Guppy Emergency
My one and only guppy gave birth last Friday. Though the fry did not
survive she was doing well. Today I noticed she was sorta slow on her
fin if you will. So I decided to move her to the 5 gal tank I was
working on for my fry. After I got her, too easily I might add, I
noticed that she appeard to have a cut on her side. It is bleeding and
sorta has a fuzzyness to the area around the cut. I would say she had
been attacked but I am just not sure which one of the platies would
have been aggressive enough to do it. Not that it matters. She is
alone now and I need to know how to help her if I can. Thanks, I am
waiting by the puter.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21456 From: Karen Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
When I kept bettas, the injuries during mating were frequent. I kept
aquarisol and non-iodized salt in their water to prevent infection.
If I needed to treat an injury I used a few drops of Melafix. It is a
natural antifungal. I don't know about guppies but they are both
freshwater fish. Have you checked out http://www.wetwebmedia.com ?
I always search that site for info when I need it fast and accurate.
Good luck.
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21457 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Move her into a tank by herself. Injured fish often become targets for
further harassment. What kinds of medicines do you have on hand? If you
have Melafix, start a treatment of that. It's good for external injuries
and is a general antibacterial so it will help fight back any infection. Is
the fuzziness just torn skin or does it look like a mold or fungus?

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppy Emergency

My one and only guppy gave birth last Friday. Though the fry did not
survive she was doing well. Today I noticed she was sorta slow on her fin
if you will. So I decided to move her to the 5 gal tank I was working on
for my fry. After I got her, too easily I might add, I noticed that she
appeard to have a cut on her side. It is bleeding and sorta has a fuzzyness
to the area around the cut. I would say she had been attacked but I am just
not sure which one of the platies would have been aggressive enough to do
it. Not that it matters. She is alone now and I need to know how to help
her if I can. Thanks, I am waiting by the puter.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21458 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
TY I will head over right now.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Karen" <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
>
> When I kept bettas, the injuries during mating were frequent. I kept
> aquarisol and non-iodized salt in their water to prevent infection.
> If I needed to treat an injury I used a few drops of Melafix. It is a
> natural antifungal. I don't know about guppies but they are both
> freshwater fish. Have you checked out http://www.wetwebmedia.com ?
> I always search that site for info when I need it fast and accurate.
> Good luck.
> Karen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21459 From: Memrie Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Actually I only have the aquarium salt on hand. She is already in a
tank by herself. I have no filtration right yet as I was still
working on the tank and did not think I would need it this soon. The
fuzzyness could be torn skin. As she was the only guppy the platies
would sometimes harass her but they never had injured her before.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Move her into a tank by herself. Injured fish often become targets
for
> further harassment. What kinds of medicines do you have on hand?
If you
> have Melafix, start a treatment of that. It's good for external
injuries
> and is a general antibacterial so it will help fight back any
infection. Is
> the fuzziness just torn skin or does it look like a mold or fungus?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21460 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/19/2007
Subject: Re: Which new tank to buy?
Glass Cages has a 70 wide available that is 48" x 24" x 13". The
"breeder" tanks are generally wider and lower than their "regular"
counterparts, but I don't know if anyone ever made a 60 that way. You
might try a search for breeder tanks to see what turns up on the web.

You can visit Glass Cages at http://www.glasscages.com You can also get
a custom tank from them, made to your specifications. You do need to
send them the info, and they will get back to you with a quote.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Monday, March 19, 2007 3:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Which new tank to buy?

Well, the center
support of my 55 gallon finally cracked off (which I new was going to
eventaully happen due to my non-flat tank stand)!
So now, I need to replace the tank-but I'm going to get a different
tank.
I HATE how most tank stands look, and I also hate the 55 gallon tanks
are so short from front to back. It makes aquascaping/planting quite
difficult.
I was going to upgrade to a 72 gallon bowfront from Oceanic with the
Stainless stand, but my landlord thinks it may weight too much to put in
my apartment (Neither of us are sure of the beam structure where I
want to put it)
So I'm considering the 46 gallon oceanic bowfront with the metal stand
- but I'm VERY upset about downsizing! does anyone have any
suggestions of other tanks/stands I may like that are close to 55-60
gallons, but have a bigger front to back footprint?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21461 From: John Hawley Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: The Jr Challenge, support the AKCA, KOIUSA, and our hobby....
"The Jr Challenge, support the AKCA, KOIUSA, and our hobby....
I agree. Let's 'vote' with our wallets. 'Meglomanic checkmate' aside,
building the subscription base for KOI USA is a positive thing. I'm
all for positive approaches.
Since I already get KOI USA, as a pledge, I will try and sign up one
fellow koi keeper for a membership this week. If we all do that, we
can double the current numbers of AKCA supporters.
I will list the name of the new recruit here when they agree and I
will ask then to sign the petition as well.
JR" James Reilly, AKCA Judge
*Source his Internet AKCA Club "Koishack.com"

I'd say I spoke to a member of one of the local AKCA club board
members here yesterday about the club taking out a subscription as
previously several issues of KOI USA were provided by KOI USA to give
out to new members to encourage subscriptions. That program was
discontinued. Thus, each AKCA club needs to possess samples to at
least loan out from their library or give to a non-subscribing new
member. I recieved my two free copies for having written an article
that was published in this months issue and I've given one to the club
and one will go to a potential new subscriber.
Does your AKCA club subscribe? If each club took five subscriptions as
a way to give back to AKCA that would be likely at least 450 new
subscriptions as surely not even half of the clubs subscribe to the
magazine.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21462 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Well, she died. I thought she was doing better as she was eating with
intrest and swimming around well, but when I went back after 2 hours
she was on the bottom dead.
Thanks for all the advise and info.
Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> My one and only guppy gave birth last Friday. Though the fry did not
> survive she was doing well. Today I noticed she was sorta slow on
her
> fin if you will. So I decided to move her to the 5 gal tank I was
> working on for my fry. After I got her, too easily I might add, I
> noticed that she appeard to have a cut on her side. It is bleeding
and
> sorta has a fuzzyness to the area around the cut. I would say she
had
> been attacked but I am just not sure which one of the platies would
> have been aggressive enough to do it. Not that it matters. She is
> alone now and I need to know how to help her if I can. Thanks, I am
> waiting by the puter.
>
> Mem
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21463 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
I'm sorry for your loss........they may be just fish, but we can get so attached to them. You were given such good info that I was hopeing she would make it.......I think I'm going to get some of the medicine and keep it on hand, though......it would come in handy. Cory

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: Well, she died. I thought she was doing better as she was eating with
intrest and swimming around well, but when I went back after 2 hours
she was on the bottom dead.
Thanks for all the advise and info.
Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> My one and only guppy gave birth last Friday. Though the fry did not
> survive she was doing well. Today I noticed she was sorta slow on
her
> fin if you will. So I decided to move her to the 5 gal tank I was
> working on for my fry. After I got her, too easily I might add, I
> noticed that she appeard to have a cut on her side. It is bleeding
and
> sorta has a fuzzyness to the area around the cut. I would say she
had
> been attacked but I am just not sure which one of the platies would
> have been aggressive enough to do it. Not that it matters. She is
> alone now and I need to know how to help her if I can. Thanks, I am
> waiting by the puter.
>
> Mem
>






---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21464 From: Michelle Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: something wrong with my tank
I have a 40 gallon f/w tank. It has 3 cardenial tetras, 4 gold tetras,
2 chinese algee eaters and one white molly. It did have more and angel
fish but, they are all dieing off. There is sometype of disease (not
ick) on the tetras. It is seems to be around the middle of their body
in a ring around them. They slowly loose the ability to swim and move
their back ends. Any ideas what this might be? I had a 90 gallon for
years and never had anything like this. This is the only tank affected
by this I also have a 10 and 20 gallon. Any ideas would be greatly
appreciated. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21465 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Good Morning All,

I am sorry I have not posted since my Janice died on March 7th
but, I also have a boyfriend who is very ill and I have not been able
to be on the computer much. Janice was my three year old (almost)
Livebearer Fish. She was really very cute. At first, my parents and
I decided to not get anymore fish and were going to just get "Ghost
Shrimp." I went to PetSmart the next day and inquired about getting
some shrimp. They did not carry them but, I did see a few darling
all male, brillant colored guppies. I bought three and put them in
Janice's very clean tank. One of them died immediately. I still had
the receipt so back to the store I went and got another one. One of
the original three died a few days later. Last Tuesday night, Dad and
I went back up to the store to get one more. We ended up with two as
the young lady that told me about them, said these two had been
getting along very well and She had been watching them. Well,
yesterday one of those last two was dead. The other one was picking
and picking on Him and would not allow Him to eat. Mother and I
tried everything to get my "David" to eat but, the other one "Gordon"
just would not let Him eat. David was taken out of the tank on
Saturday and allowed Him to eat on His own. He finally did and all
seemed ok. Sunday, David did eat with His friends and things seemed
ok but, now David is dead and Gordon killed Him. I have no idea what
to do now as the remaining three "Gordon" "Eric" and "Chuck" are not
getting along and they seem to be picking on Eric. I just cannot
lose another one of my babies. They are in a very clean tank with
only a few ghost shrimp that I was able to find and who also (five
out of seven) died as well. I have tested the water with test strips
and simply do not know what to do. If anyone has any ideas please
help me. I have the correct tropical foood. The temperature is
perfect at about 76 degrees and they seemed to be very healthy fish
when I got them. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this
note but, I do not know what to do and as I am sure you will
understand, my animals are my life. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21466 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
Same here. I will be going tomorrow to the store, so I will get some.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <coryswalter@...> wrote:
>
> I'm sorry for your loss........they may be just fish, but we can get
so attached to them. You were given such good info that I was hopeing
she would make it.......I think I'm going to get some of the medicine
and keep it on hand, though......it would come in handy. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21467 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Are all of the guppies male? That might be the issue. They may need several females with them to "even out" the temprements. And you might try separating out the "bullie" for a little bit. That might calm him down enough to go back to the group.

michelle_brown134 <michelle_brown134@...> wrote: Good Morning All,

I am sorry I have not posted since my Janice died on March 7th
but, I also have a boyfriend who is very ill and I have not been able
to be on the computer much. Janice was my three year old (almost)
Livebearer Fish. She was really very cute. At first, my parents and
I decided to not get anymore fish and were going to just get "Ghost
Shrimp." I went to PetSmart the next day and inquired about getting
some shrimp. They did not carry them but, I did see a few darling
all male, brillant colored guppies. I bought three and put them in
Janice's very clean tank. One of them died immediately. I still had
the receipt so back to the store I went and got another one. One of
the original three died a few days later. Last Tuesday night, Dad and
I went back up to the store to get one more. We ended up with two as
the young lady that told me about them, said these two had been
getting along very well and She had been watching them. Well,
yesterday one of those last two was dead. The other one was picking
and picking on Him and would not allow Him to eat. Mother and I
tried everything to get my "David" to eat but, the other one "Gordon"
just would not let Him eat. David was taken out of the tank on
Saturday and allowed Him to eat on His own. He finally did and all
seemed ok. Sunday, David did eat with His friends and things seemed
ok but, now David is dead and Gordon killed Him. I have no idea what
to do now as the remaining three "Gordon" "Eric" and "Chuck" are not
getting along and they seem to be picking on Eric. I just cannot
lose another one of my babies. They are in a very clean tank with
only a few ghost shrimp that I was able to find and who also (five
out of seven) died as well. I have tested the water with test strips
and simply do not know what to do. If anyone has any ideas please
help me. I have the correct tropical foood. The temperature is
perfect at about 76 degrees and they seemed to be very healthy fish
when I got them. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this
note but, I do not know what to do and as I am sure you will
understand, my animals are my life. Sincerely, Dawn






---------------------------------
Now that's room service! Choose from over 150,000 hotels
in 45,000 destinations on Yahoo! Travel to find your fit.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21468 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where I co
for more info. Since the only pet stores are about 40 miles away, esp
with fish, what would it take to set up a fish store? I mean Walmart
carries cat, bird, and dog, item but has discontinued almost all fish
stuff. I know that there are others out there like me who cant just
drive to Florence at the drop of a hat to get needed equipment. What
are the thoughts of those that have been doing this for a while or are
familiar with the idea?

mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21469 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Hi Dawn,

I'm not sure how long you've been keeping fish but there are two online
tutorials listed at the top of my blog and you could take one or both of
these tutorials and learn more about keeping fish in general which will help
you out.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml

It sounds like you may have a few different things happening. One could be
how you are acclimating the fish to your tank. Since you are having regular
issues with new fish dying right away, you need to acclimate them more
slowly than you've been doing. You should probably use the drip method to
acclimate them.

Also, when buying new fish, have the pet store employee feed the fish while
you are watching and make sure the ones you are interested in have healthy
appetites and you can identify the over-aggressive ones as well.

How big is your tank? If you have too many fish in a small tank, they will
become more aggressive and possibly kill tank mates as a way of ensuring
their own survival.

Post your test results for any tests you have. You should have temperature,
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH as the basic five... and any others you may
have.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of michelle_brown134
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 11:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are
Fighting!!!

Good Morning All,

I am sorry I have not posted since my Janice died on March 7th but, I
also have a boyfriend who is very ill and I have not been able to be on the
computer much. Janice was my three year old (almost) Livebearer Fish. She
was really very cute. At first, my parents and I decided to not get anymore
fish and were going to just get "Ghost Shrimp." I went to PetSmart the next
day and inquired about getting some shrimp. They did not carry them but, I
did see a few darling all male, brillant colored guppies. I bought three
and put them in Janice's very clean tank. One of them died immediately. I
still had the receipt so back to the store I went and got another one. One
of the original three died a few days later. Last Tuesday night, Dad and I
went back up to the store to get one more. We ended up with two as the
young lady that told me about them, said these two had been getting along
very well and She had been watching them. Well, yesterday one of those last
two was dead. The other one was picking and picking on Him and would not
allow Him to eat. Mother and I tried everything to get my "David" to eat
but, the other one "Gordon"
just would not let Him eat. David was taken out of the tank on Saturday and
allowed Him to eat on His own. He finally did and all seemed ok. Sunday,
David did eat with His friends and things seemed ok but, now David is dead
and Gordon killed Him. I have no idea what to do now as the remaining three
"Gordon" "Eric" and "Chuck" are not getting along and they seem to be
picking on Eric. I just cannot lose another one of my babies. They are in
a very clean tank with only a few ghost shrimp that I was able to find and
who also (five out of seven) died as well. I have tested the water with test
strips and simply do not know what to do. If anyone has any ideas please
help me. I have the correct tropical foood. The temperature is perfect at
about 76 degrees and they seemed to be very healthy fish when I got them.
Thank you so much for taking the time to read this note but, I do not know
what to do and as I am sure you will understand, my animals are my life.
Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21470 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
You would be better off setting up an Aquarium Maintenance Service where you
would not have to worry about stocking lots of inventory. They you would
just keep the various treatments, medicines, etc., that are needed and make
money on house calls to treat peoples fish/tanks. You could stock certain
items for resale but you would not have to put out thousands of dollars for
inventory and store front. You could work out of your home and
car/truck/van.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 11:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info
or where I could go...

for more info. Since the only pet stores are about 40 miles away, esp with
fish, what would it take to set up a fish store? I mean Walmart carries
cat, bird, and dog, item but has discontinued almost all fish stuff. I know
that there are others out there like me who cant just drive to Florence at
the drop of a hat to get needed equipment. What are the thoughts of those
that have been doing this for a while or are familiar with the idea?

mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21471 From: Memrie Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Now that I had not thought of. Good idea!

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> You would be better off setting up an Aquarium Maintenance Service
where you
> would not have to worry about stocking lots of inventory. They you
would
> just keep the various treatments, medicines, etc., that are needed
and make
> money on house calls to treat peoples fish/tanks. You could stock
certain
> items for resale but you would not have to put out thousands of
dollars for
> inventory and store front. You could work out of your home and
> car/truck/van.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 11:41 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew
more info
> or where I could go...
>
> for more info. Since the only pet stores are about 40 miles away,
esp with
> fish, what would it take to set up a fish store? I mean Walmart
carries
> cat, bird, and dog, item but has discontinued almost all fish
stuff. I know
> that there are others out there like me who cant just drive to
Florence at
> the drop of a hat to get needed equipment. What are the thoughts
of those
> that have been doing this for a while or are familiar with the idea?
>
> mem
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21472 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
I agree totally with this answer I started my own business of going out and cleaning tanks and setting them up also moving them or even tearing them down you can get a lot of free stuff when taking down a fish tank. The closet pet store to me was right around what you are saying and there where a lot of people in the area with tanks or wanting a fish tank but didn't have the time to clean them or even get them set up you do need to make sure you are ready for this try to have all the right answers. But by starting my own business I was able to get in with a lot of over sea trading and even near by trading I guess I should say buying. I started out with a lot of regular starting fish just so people had tanks set up. Once they have tanks setup you get started cleaning there tanks like every other week or so and the money startes to come in but yes you do need to put a little of your own money into it to get started not a lot. Sometime just to show you care you through in
little things for free just to build the relationship with your client. The other thing to do to get started is do it as a side job just doing a few cleaning here and there you know like when you where a kid going out and mowing lawns under the table. It is a lot of fun when you get up and running but can be a pain sometimes to.

NHSNOLA <nhsnola@...> wrote: You would be better off setting up an Aquarium Maintenance Service where you
would not have to worry about stocking lots of inventory. They you would
just keep the various treatments, medicines, etc., that are needed and make
money on house calls to treat peoples fish/tanks. You could stock certain
items for resale but you would not have to put out thousands of dollars for
inventory and store front. You could work out of your home and
car/truck/van.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 11:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info
or where I could go...

for more info. Since the only pet stores are about 40 miles away, esp with
fish, what would it take to set up a fish store? I mean Walmart carries
cat, bird, and dog, item but has discontinued almost all fish stuff. I know
that there are others out there like me who cant just drive to Florence at
the drop of a hat to get needed equipment. What are the thoughts of those
that have been doing this for a while or are familiar with the idea?

mem






---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21473 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
sorry to hear that
karen
Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Well, she died. I thought she was doing better as she was eating with
intrest and swimming around well, but when I went back after 2 hours
she was on the bottom dead.
Thanks for all the advise and info.
Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> My one and only guppy gave birth last Friday. Though the fry did not
> survive she was doing well. Today I noticed she was sorta slow on
her
> fin if you will. So I decided to move her to the 5 gal tank I was
> working on for my fry. After I got her, too easily I might add, I
> noticed that she appeard to have a cut on her side. It is bleeding
and
> sorta has a fuzzyness to the area around the cut. I would say she
had
> been attacked but I am just not sure which one of the platies would
> have been aggressive enough to do it. Not that it matters. She is
> alone now and I need to know how to help her if I can. Thanks, I am
> waiting by the puter.
>
> Mem
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21474 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppy Emergency
I'm sorry :(
I get so attached to my fish too.
Emily


On 20 Mar 2007 09:34:30 -0700, Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> Same here. I will be going tomorrow to the store, so I will get some.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, Cory
> Walter <coryswalter@...> wrote:
> >
> > I'm sorry for your loss........they may be just fish, but we can get
> so attached to them. You were given such good info that I was hopeing
> she would make it.......I think I'm going to get some of the medicine
> and keep it on hand, though......it would come in handy. Cory
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21475 From: nader Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Lion fish
Simple








Lion fish



(




























---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21476 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
hi there i think that the problem is that they are all males you need to get some females two for ever male as i had the same problem went to the local pet shop and got some females and now they all are fine hope this helps reguards gloria


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: michelle_brown134@...: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 16:24:54 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!




Good Morning All,I am sorry I have not posted since my Janice died on March 7th but, I also have a boyfriend who is very ill and I have not been able to be on the computer much. Janice was my three year old (almost) Livebearer Fish. She was really very cute. At first, my parents and I decided to not get anymore fish and were going to just get "Ghost Shrimp." I went to PetSmart the next day and inquired about getting some shrimp. They did not carry them but, I did see a few darling all male, brillant colored guppies. I bought three and put them in Janice's very clean tank. One of them died immediately. I still had the receipt so back to the store I went and got another one. One of the original three died a few days later. Last Tuesday night, Dad and I went back up to the store to get one more. We ended up with two as the young lady that told me about them, said these two had been getting along very well and She had been watching them. Well, yesterday one of those last two was dead. The other one was picking and picking on Him and would not allow Him to eat. Mother and I tried everything to get my "David" to eat but, the other one "Gordon" just would not let Him eat. David was taken out of the tank on Saturday and allowed Him to eat on His own. He finally did and all seemed ok. Sunday, David did eat with His friends and things seemed ok but, now David is dead and Gordon killed Him. I have no idea what to do now as the remaining three "Gordon" "Eric" and "Chuck" are not getting along and they seem to be picking on Eric. I just cannot lose another one of my babies. They are in a very clean tank with only a few ghost shrimp that I was able to find and who also (five out of seven) died as well. I have tested the water with test strips and simply do not know what to do. If anyone has any ideas please help me. I have the correct tropical foood. The temperature is perfect at about 76 degrees and they seemed to be very healthy fish when I got them. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this note but, I do not know what to do and as I am sure you will understand, my animals are my life. Sincerely, Dawn


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21477 From: Gloria Ashdown Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: something wrong with my tank
hi there not sure but i think that the problem is swin bladder and velvet a good site to check this is www.myfirsttankguide.com not sure if not please email and i will have a look back to the tank if it is what i said he will be able to help you reguards gloria


Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 09:03:45 -0700To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: wldride2001@...: Tue, 20 Mar 2007 15:55:09 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] something wrong with my tank




I have a 40 gallon f/w tank. It has 3 cardenial tetras, 4 gold tetras, 2 chinese algee eaters and one white molly. It did have more and angel fish but, they are all dieing off. There is sometype of disease (not ick) on the tetras. It is seems to be around the middle of their body in a ring around them. They slowly loose the ability to swim and move their back ends. Any ideas what this might be? I had a 90 gallon for years and never had anything like this. This is the only tank affected by this I also have a 10 and 20 gallon. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21478 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are Fighting!!!
Male guppies can be aggressive toward each other, but seldom to the
death. You really do not say why you think that the deaths are from
aggression rather than another cause. Were fins ripped? Were there
lesions on the bodies? Any physical signs of aggression prior to the
deaths of the fish? If not, you need to look for another causative
effect.

You say you tested the water with strips, not a real good method in my
mind, but you do not give any results. You really should use test kits
that have dry reagents that are premeasured for you, and have an
expiration date stamped on the kit. You may be surprised at the readings
you get compared to the test strips. You make no mention of the hardness
of your water. While guppies do have a wide range of pH, hardness and
temperature they can live in, they do seem to need a certain hardness to
do really well.

As others have mentioned, you really should have had some females to
keep the males more occupied. Ideally, you would keep two females for
each male. This helps the females survive the "attention" of the males,
and will also keep the males occupied enough so that they will not
bother each other so much.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of michelle_brown134
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I Have No Idea What To Do My Three Guppies Are
Fighting!!!

Good Morning All,

I am sorry I have not posted since my Janice died on March 7th
but, I also have a boyfriend who is very ill and I have not been able
to be on the computer much. Janice was my three year old (almost)
Livebearer Fish. She was really very cute. At first, my parents and
I decided to not get anymore fish and were going to just get "Ghost
Shrimp." I went to PetSmart the next day and inquired about getting
some shrimp. They did not carry them but, I did see a few darling
all male, brillant colored guppies. I bought three and put them in
Janice's very clean tank. One of them died immediately. I still had
the receipt so back to the store I went and got another one. One of
the original three died a few days later. Last Tuesday night, Dad and
I went back up to the store to get one more. We ended up with two as
the young lady that told me about them, said these two had been
getting along very well and She had been watching them. Well,
yesterday one of those last two was dead. The other one was picking
and picking on Him and would not allow Him to eat. Mother and I
tried everything to get my "David" to eat but, the other one "Gordon"
just would not let Him eat. David was taken out of the tank on
Saturday and allowed Him to eat on His own. He finally did and all
seemed ok. Sunday, David did eat with His friends and things seemed
ok but, now David is dead and Gordon killed Him. I have no idea what
to do now as the remaining three "Gordon" "Eric" and "Chuck" are not
getting along and they seem to be picking on Eric. I just cannot
lose another one of my babies. They are in a very clean tank with
only a few ghost shrimp that I was able to find and who also (five
out of seven) died as well. I have tested the water with test strips
and simply do not know what to do. If anyone has any ideas please
help me. I have the correct tropical foood. The temperature is
perfect at about 76 degrees and they seemed to be very healthy fish
when I got them. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this
note but, I do not know what to do and as I am sure you will
understand, my animals are my life. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more info or where
Setting up a shop is a lot of hard work and hard won knowledge. You will
also need a lot of up front cash, and enough to see you through hard
times. You will never be able to sell for the prices you see online.
You'll never be able to match the prices one will find in a big box
store. Ideally you will need to have the knowledge of at least your most
advanced customers, if not greater.

There is a reason why you need to drive 40 miles to the nearest store.
It is quite likely that the population that will have access to your
store is not enough to support the store. You will need to study your
market before taking such a big step.

The aquarium maintenance business mentioned is also no piece of cake.
You are going to have to determine your pricing so you actually make
money. Then you are going to need to convince people that the price they
will need to pay is worth the end result. You will need to be very good
with fish so that they will live good healthy lives You will need to
know when t replace fish so that customers are not faced with aging,
less healthy fish and will seldom see a dead fish in their tank(s),
thereby causing an emergency call to the person who takes care of the
fish. I'd be will to bet that most of your customers would want to see a
marine tank rather than a FW tank, which means you'll need the knowledge
t keep marines. You will need to stock spare tanks, parts and fish to
handle all this stuff.

Both ideas will require that you work long hours. Both will require a
certain amount of physical labor. Both will require piles of money
upfront, and to carry you through lean times. Both will require
salesmanship skills that you may or may not have.

Look at the market for each. Come up with a business plan for each. Then
decide. You might do a very good job at dissuading yourself, with no
help from the likes of me. Once you have decided to make a go of it,
show your business plan to another business person, or two, and ask for
a critique. There may be aspects you had not yet considered.

If you do decide to go one way or the other, I do wish you the best of
success with your business. It is tough. I own parts of two businesses
(not aquarium related) myself. I put in a lot of hours. You can ask my
other half, who is also starting her own business as well as working
near full time. Some times we are so tired we can barely make it to bed
(and we have no wee ones to worry about other than our critters). We can
only strive to make it worthwhile at some point down the road when we
can sit back and relax for a while.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A thought I had and wondered if anyone knew more
info or where I could go...

for more info. Since the only pet stores are about 40 miles away, esp
with fish, what would it take to set up a fish store? I mean Walmart
carries cat, bird, and dog, item but has discontinued almost all fish
stuff. I know that there are others out there like me who cant just
drive to Florence at the drop of a hat to get needed equipment. What
are the thoughts of those that have been doing this for a while or are
familiar with the idea?

mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21480 From: Chris Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Please can some one tell me what type of plant this is?
Please can some one tell me what type of plant this is?

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/HikyuuJunglee/Fish/New%
20Tank/000_0221.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w110/HikyuuJunglee/Fish/New%
20Tank/000_0222.jpg
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21481 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/20/2007
Subject: Re: Lion fish
Did I miss something in this message?

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of nader
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 5:23 PM
To: petlovers2003@yahoogroups.com; aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lion fish



Simple








Lion fish



(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21482 From: Memrie Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Wher eis everyone?
It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where
the group is?

mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21483 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Well I'm here lurking, haven't said much as most everyone has had it covered and didn't think my 2cents was really needed LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where
the group is?

mem






---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21484 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?
I'm being held hostage by my Gouramis. They are demanding equal rights for
fish, 20 females for each of them, $40billion transferred to their Swiss
Bank acct., and a plane to a small Caribbean island so that they can
populate its fresh waters with their own kind or they will detonate their
FWD (Fish Waste of Disgust)!



-Steve ;)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shannon Mulberry
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 7:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?



Well I'm here lurking, haven't said much as most everyone has had it covered
and didn't think my 2cents was really needed LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@yahoo. <mailto:mblue833%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:
It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where
the group is?

mem





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21485 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?
sorry hon, you better get comfy. I collected the 40 mil but I'm gonna take it with me to the small Caribbean island and party.
karen

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
I'm being held hostage by my Gouramis. They are demanding equal rights for
fish, 20 females for each of them, $40billion transferred to their Swiss
Bank acct., and a plane to a small Caribbean island so that they can
populate its fresh waters with their own kind or they will detonate their
FWD (Fish Waste of Disgust)!

-Steve ;)

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shannon Mulberry
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 7:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: {Spam?} {Disarmed} Re: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?

Well I'm here lurking, haven't said much as most everyone has had it covered
and didn't think my 2cents was really needed LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@yahoo. <mailto:mblue833%40yahoo.com> com> wrote:
It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where
the group is?

mem

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21486 From: iowakoi Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Spring pond start up tips
Algae is a major problem in turning ponds into pea soup.
There are a number of ways to deal with it. The problem is caused by
extra nitrates caused by more ammonia in the pond ass fish become more
active and start eating after the long winter. Too much light because
the plants are not actively growing. Your pond should be at least 1/3 of
the surface covered with plants. Use fertilizer tabs and not liquid
fertilizer to help keep the algae down.

Barley is most effective if it is allowed to decompose in rapidly moving
water. The easiest way to do this is to tie it in a bundle and hide it
in the waterfall. It treats for 4-6 months. be sure to use enough for
you pond size if in doubt use more! Use can also use pads mixed with
lavender. If you want quick control use a barley extract product like
Barley straw concentrated extact plus peat by microbe-lift.

When you clean your filter mats use dechlorinated water. There is a hose
filter that dechlorinator the water for you. After you clean your filter
sue beneficial bacteria. PL/Gel stays put on the filter media itself.

How many gallons does your pond hold, what state are you in?
http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com> can provide you with even more
answers on dealing with these issues. Let me know if there is anything
else I can help with. Gail richdeer3@...
<mailto:richdeer3@...>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21487 From: Memrie Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Well, I hope you get released soon. There is nothing worse than being
held hostage by fish. LOL

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "The Dragon Hunter"
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
>
> I'm being held hostage by my Gouramis. They are demanding equal
rights for
> fish, 20 females for each of them, $40billion transferred to their
Swiss
> Bank acct., and a plane to a small Caribbean island so that they can
> populate its fresh waters with their own kind or they will detonate
their
> FWD (Fish Waste of Disgust)!
>
>
>
> -Steve ;)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21488 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad more LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Well, I hope you get released soon. There is nothing worse than being
held hostage by fish. LOL

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "The Dragon Hunter"
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
>
> I'm being held hostage by my Gouramis. They are demanding equal
rights for
> fish, 20 females for each of them, $40billion transferred to their
Swiss
> Bank acct., and a plane to a small Caribbean island so that they can
> populate its fresh waters with their own kind or they will detonate
their
> FWD (Fish Waste of Disgust)!
>
>
>
> -Steve ;)






---------------------------------
Bored stiff? Loosen up...
Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21489 From: Karen Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish
are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
more LOL
>
> Shannon
>
Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the crawlspace
below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't find
my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the middle
of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21490 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT

Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4 parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in them

Shannon

Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish
are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
more LOL
>
> Shannon
>
Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the crawlspace
below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't find
my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the middle
of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
karen






---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21491 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
I used to be embarrased about all my animals but now I just go with it. I am gonna have a sign made to put out front. Zoo parking to the right. At work, there are a few other nurses just like me. Perhaps we should all get together and buy an island or take over Kansas or something. That way all animal horders could live in peace with others like them. Just kidding.
Karen

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT

Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4 parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in them

Shannon

Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish
are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
more LOL
>
> Shannon
>
Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the crawlspace
below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't find
my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the middle
of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
karen

---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21492 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
I'm in my home office... I don't know where everyone else is. :-D

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

-----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of Memrie
Subject: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?

It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where the
group is?

mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21493 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/21/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
In the fish room doing water changes, endless water changes...


-----Original Message-----
From: mblue833@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 21 Mar 2007 5:38 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Wher eis everyone?


It has been very quiet ever since I joined. I was just wondering where
the group is?

mem

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21494 From: gorsford Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Abt: Cichlid
My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too

the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies

questions
1) what is the full name of the cichlid
2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
shipped
3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
change?
4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?

If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21495 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
I have brightly colored yellow, orange, blue and purple cichlids and really
enjoy them. If you meet their requirements they are easy to keep and breed.




The brightly colored cichlids of the type I have cannot be kept in a 25
gallon tank…usually a 55 gallon tank is recommended as the minimum. Also,
they need water with a high pH, which can be difficult to maintain if your
tap water has a low pH. So first, identify the cichlids you want and then
research! It’s REALLY important to research before you buy, because some
fish commonly in the stores are too aggressive to be kept together (even
those the fish store will tell you they can).



Mine are African Lake Malawi or Rift Lake cichlids, also called mbuna. The
most common yellow ones in the stores are Labidochromis Caeruleus or Yellow
Labs. The most common orange ones are Metriaclima Estherae or Red Zebras.
There are lots of blue ones. Google those names using the “images” feature
and see if those are the ones you saw.



An average breeding size is 2”. (Mature size is 6” for the average mbuna.)
However many people buy the smaller size and let them grow up together
because they get along better when younger. It can be hard to introduce a
mature mbuna into an established tank as they are territorial when mature,
the existing fish will attack the new fish. One reason they need a large
tank is to provide each fish (at least each male) a territory it can defend.




The other reason they need a larger tank is that they are harem fish. For
every male, it is ideal to have three or more females. They cannot be kept
in pairs as the male will often harass the female to death.



Mbuna are called rock fish and they are herbivores. They may leave your
java fern alone, but they are good at eating plants and digging plants up!
Lake Malawi has a lot of rocks and almost no plants where the mbuna live.
So tank décor if you are trying for a Malawi tank would be sand or other
fine substrate and rocks piled up to the water line in half the tank for
territories and hiding places.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid



My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too

the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies

questions
1) what is the full name of the cichlid
2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
shipped
3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
change?
4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?

If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21496 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
You need to give us more to go on than just colors to try to identify a fish. Even a common name would help. Saying that they are cichlids does not help, since there are hundreds of known species and color morphs of cichlids. Judging from the colors you mention, these are probably African rift lake cichlids, in which case your plants will be gone in short order as they grow.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid

My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too

the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies

questions
1) what is the full name of the cichlid
2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
shipped
3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
change?
4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?

If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21497 From: Alex See Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
Thx Donna, I am sure that the kind you have is the one that i want
for a 55 gallon tank, how many cichlid do u keep? and how big are they?
I will tell my friend to have his own tank, ha

On 3/22/07, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I have brightly colored yellow, orange, blue and purple cichlids and
> really
> enjoy them. If you meet their requirements they are easy to keep and
> breed.
>
> The brightly colored cichlids of the type I have cannot be kept in a 25
> gallon tank�usually a 55 gallon tank is recommended as the minimum. Also,
> they need water with a high pH, which can be difficult to maintain if your
> tap water has a low pH. So first, identify the cichlids you want and then
> research! It's REALLY important to research before you buy, because some
> fish commonly in the stores are too aggressive to be kept together (even
> those the fish store will tell you they can).
>
> Mine are African Lake Malawi or Rift Lake cichlids, also called mbuna. The
> most common yellow ones in the stores are Labidochromis Caeruleus or
> Yellow
> Labs. The most common orange ones are Metriaclima Estherae or Red Zebras.
> There are lots of blue ones. Google those names using the "images" feature
> and see if those are the ones you saw.
>
> An average breeding size is 2". (Mature size is 6" for the average mbuna.)
> However many people buy the smaller size and let them grow up together
> because they get along better when younger. It can be hard to introduce a
> mature mbuna into an established tank as they are territorial when mature,
> the existing fish will attack the new fish. One reason they need a large
> tank is to provide each fish (at least each male) a territory it can
> defend.
>
> The other reason they need a larger tank is that they are harem fish. For
> every male, it is ideal to have three or more females. They cannot be kept
> in pairs as the male will often harass the female to death.
>
> Mbuna are called rock fish and they are herbivores. They may leave your
> java fern alone, but they are good at eating plants and digging plants up!
> Lake Malawi has a lot of rocks and almost no plants where the mbuna live.
> So tank d�cor if you are trying for a Malawi tank would be sand or other
> fine substrate and rocks piled up to the water line in half the tank for
> territories and hiding places.
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
>
> My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
> some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
> java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too
>
> the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
> we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies
>
> questions
> 1) what is the full name of the cichlid
> 2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
> shipped
> 3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
> something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
> change?
> 4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
> fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
> 5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
> i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?
>
> If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21498 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Oh me too - I get teased a lot by anyone I know, and yes, my home has been referred to as a zoo - here is what we have

4 cats, 2 dogs, 1 ferret (lost his sister this summer) 2 rats, and 5 fish tanks. We also had chinchillas whom died of old age around Christmas time this year. :(

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Shannon Mulberry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?


Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT

Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4 parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in them

Shannon

Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish
are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
more LOL
>
> Shannon
>
Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the crawlspace
below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't find
my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the middle
of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
karen

---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21499 From: emadore57 Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
What a relief! I thought I was the only one living in a zoo! And
I'm a Nurse too! My zoo consists of 6 cats - all indoor - 1 of which
is feral; 3 dogs - one greyhound/terrier mix & 2 purebred German
Shepherds; 4 frogs (in 2 tanks) and many, many fish and snails (3
tanks)!!! I also used to have a tarantula but she died. I really
want another one! And I had a Scorpion - a beautiful black one but
when I moved, I gave her to the Toronto Zoo. And I miss my birds!!
Geez....what is it about Nurses eh?
Eilleen.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> I used to be embarrased about all my animals but now I just go with
it. I am gonna have a sign made to put out front. Zoo parking to the
right. At work, there are a few other nurses just like me. Perhaps
we should all get together and buy an island or take over Kansas or
something. That way all animal horders could live in peace with
others like them. Just kidding.
> Karen
>
> Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I
was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always
human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some
sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not
kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon
so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got
broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21500 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
My mom is a nurse, maybe its a some kind of subliminal thing LOL she still has a zoo, indian ring neck parakeet (I traded him to dad for a horse many moons ago), 2 house cats, 2 dogs, and not sure how many horses they should be pushing 10, not counting there are probably a fair of shubikins in water troughs LOL

Shannon

emadore57 <emadore57@...> wrote:
What a relief! I thought I was the only one living in a zoo! And
I'm a Nurse too! My zoo consists of 6 cats - all indoor - 1 of which
is feral; 3 dogs - one greyhound/terrier mix & 2 purebred German
Shepherds; 4 frogs (in 2 tanks) and many, many fish and snails (3
tanks)!!! I also used to have a tarantula but she died. I really
want another one! And I had a Scorpion - a beautiful black one but
when I moved, I gave her to the Toronto Zoo. And I miss my birds!!
Geez....what is it about Nurses eh?
Eilleen.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> I used to be embarrased about all my animals but now I just go with
it. I am gonna have a sign made to put out front. Zoo parking to the
right. At work, there are a few other nurses just like me. Perhaps
we should all get together and buy an island or take over Kansas or
something. That way all animal horders could live in peace with
others like them. Just kidding.
> Karen
>
> Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I
was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always
human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some
sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not
kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon
so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got
broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21501 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
I know several nurses who collect stray animals or stray people.
karen

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
My mom is a nurse, maybe its a some kind of subliminal thing LOL she still has a zoo, indian ring neck parakeet (I traded him to dad for a horse many moons ago), 2 house cats, 2 dogs, and not sure how many horses they should be pushing 10, not counting there are probably a fair of shubikins in water troughs LOL

Shannon

emadore57 <emadore57@...> wrote:
What a relief! I thought I was the only one living in a zoo! And
I'm a Nurse too! My zoo consists of 6 cats - all indoor - 1 of which
is feral; 3 dogs - one greyhound/terrier mix & 2 purebred German
Shepherds; 4 frogs (in 2 tanks) and many, many fish and snails (3
tanks)!!! I also used to have a tarantula but she died. I really
want another one! And I had a Scorpion - a beautiful black one but
when I moved, I gave her to the Toronto Zoo. And I miss my birds!!
Geez....what is it about Nurses eh?
Eilleen.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> I used to be embarrased about all my animals but now I just go with
it. I am gonna have a sign made to put out front. Zoo parking to the
right. At work, there are a few other nurses just like me. Perhaps
we should all get together and buy an island or take over Kansas or
something. That way all animal horders could live in peace with
others like them. Just kidding.
> Karen
>
> Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I
was one of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always
human related other than them bringing home more creatures of some
sort. So when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not
kidding some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon
so things can get done a little faster again as the other one got
broke LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21502 From: Donna Ransome Date: 3/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
A good place to do research is www.cichlid-forum.com. They have profiles of
the fish below and 100s of others. They also have "cookie cutter"
suggestions in the Library section on combinations and numbers of fish that
work well in the various sized tanks. I have about 50 of them (two tanks)
from 1" to 3" and they are starting to breed.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 5:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid

Thx Donna, I am sure that the kind you have is the one that i want
for a 55 gallon tank, how many cichlid do u keep? and how big are they?
I will tell my friend to have his own tank, ha

On 3/22/07, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I have brightly colored yellow, orange, blue and purple cichlids and
> really
> enjoy them. If you meet their requirements they are easy to keep and
> breed.
>
> The brightly colored cichlids of the type I have cannot be kept in a 25
> gallon tank…usually a 55 gallon tank is recommended as the minimum. Also,
> they need water with a high pH, which can be difficult to maintain if your
> tap water has a low pH. So first, identify the cichlids you want and then
> research! It's REALLY important to research before you buy, because some
> fish commonly in the stores are too aggressive to be kept together (even
> those the fish store will tell you they can).
>
> Mine are African Lake Malawi or Rift Lake cichlids, also called mbuna. The
> most common yellow ones in the stores are Labidochromis Caeruleus or
> Yellow
> Labs. The most common orange ones are Metriaclima Estherae or Red Zebras.
> There are lots of blue ones. Google those names using the "images" feature
> and see if those are the ones you saw.
>
> An average breeding size is 2". (Mature size is 6" for the average mbuna.)
> However many people buy the smaller size and let them grow up together
> because they get along better when younger. It can be hard to introduce a
> mature mbuna into an established tank as they are territorial when mature,
> the existing fish will attack the new fish. One reason they need a large
> tank is to provide each fish (at least each male) a territory it can
> defend.
>
> The other reason they need a larger tank is that they are harem fish. For
> every male, it is ideal to have three or more females. They cannot be kept
> in pairs as the male will often harass the female to death.
>
> Mbuna are called rock fish and they are herbivores. They may leave your
> java fern alone, but they are good at eating plants and digging plants up!
> Lake Malawi has a lot of rocks and almost no plants where the mbuna live.
> So tank décor if you are trying for a Malawi tank would be sand or other
> fine substrate and rocks piled up to the water line in half the tank for
> territories and hiding places.
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2007 3:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
>
> My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
> some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
> java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too
>
> the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
> we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies
>
> questions
> 1) what is the full name of the cichlid
> 2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
> shipped
> 3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
> something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
> change?
> 4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
> fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
> 5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
> i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?
>
> If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21503 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
You sure you are not at my house?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the fish
are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
more LOL
>
> Shannon
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
> Well, I hope you get released soon. There is nothing
worse than being
> held hostage by fish. LOL
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "The Dragon Hunter"
> <dragon.hunter@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm being held hostage by my Gouramis. They are demanding equal
> rights for
> > fish, 20 females for each of them, $40billion transferred to
their
> Swiss
> > Bank acct., and a plane to a small Caribbean island so that they
can
> > populate its fresh waters with their own kind or they will
detonate
> their
> > FWD (Fish Waste of Disgust)!
> >
> >
> >
> > -Steve ;)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Bored stiff? Loosen up...
> Download and play hundreds of games for free on Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21504 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Um, when do you have time to keep up with it all?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of
the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So
when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding
some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke
LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21505 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
I get teased not because of pets but kids. We are on baby #7. And
because of sever allergies in 2 of my kids the only animal we can
have are fish. So now I am up to 3 10 gal, 1 55 gal, 1 5 gal, and a
1 gal. There are 5 platies, 8 platy fry, 12 mollies (who btw are not
doing too well) 3 goldfish, and a pleco.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:
>
> Oh me too - I get teased a lot by anyone I know, and yes, my home
has been referred to as a zoo - here is what we have
>
> 4 cats, 2 dogs, 1 ferret (lost his sister this summer) 2 rats, and
5 fish tanks. We also had chinchillas whom died of old age around
Christmas time this year. :(
>
> Cynthia
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Shannon Mulberry
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?
>
>
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one
of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So
when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding
some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke
LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is
chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a
tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot
is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets.
I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty
ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21506 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
Well put it this way, I don't have time for a real job LOL not counting my son has some "anxiety separation issues" when I work and a allergy to school the only way I could work would be graveyard but I need sleep sometime. LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Um, when do you have time to keep up with it all?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of
the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So
when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding
some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke
LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21507 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Where is everyone?
I feel ya. I work part time for now, but after the baby that will
be out the door as child care would be more than I would make a day.
And school allergies run rampant here too.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Well put it this way, I don't have time for a real job LOL not
counting my son has some "anxiety separation issues" when I work and
a allergy to school the only way I could work would be graveyard but
I need sleep sometime. LOL
>
> Shannon
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
> Um, when do you have time to keep up with it all?
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one
of
> the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
> related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort.
So
> when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not
kidding
> some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
> things can get done a little faster again as the other one got
broke
> LOL got to love them ex's NOT
> >
> > Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
> house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big
tom
> bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
> parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
> not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from
2g-
> 100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
> them
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> > Karen <kmsmith90@> wrote:
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> > <feather2night867@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
> fish
> > are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is
chasing
> > the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> > horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> > enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a
tad
> > more LOL
> > >
> > > Shannon
> > >
> > Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> > hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> > elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> > around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> > locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
> crawlspace
> > below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot
is
> > screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
> find
> > my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> > daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets.
I
> > have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> > supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
> middle
> > of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> > snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty
ripe.
> > Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> > karen
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> > in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21508 From: Karen M Smith Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
I work graveyard shift
karen

Shannon Mulberry <feather2night867@...> wrote:
Well put it this way, I don't have time for a real job LOL not counting my son has some "anxiety separation issues" when I work and a allergy to school the only way I could work would be graveyard but I need sleep sometime. LOL

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Um, when do you have time to keep up with it all?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one of
the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So
when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding
some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke
LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
them
>
> Shannon
>
> Karen <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
> <feather2night867@> wrote:
> >
> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
fish
> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is chasing
> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a tad
> more LOL
> >
> > Shannon
> >
> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
crawlspace
> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot is
> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
find
> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets. I
> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
middle
> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty ripe.
> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
> karen
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21509 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Ick
My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can find in
the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to get
better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice) filter.
Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done this
morn. What else can i do?

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21510 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Did you remove the carbon while treating for Ich? Carbon will leach most of the medicines right out of the water.


----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:14 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ick


My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can find in
the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to get
better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice) filter.
Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done this
morn. What else can i do?

Mem





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21511 From: jane parry Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
I bought 3 small cichlids and put them in a 55 gallon with angels. I now have over 60 cichlids and no angels. They do not work and play well with other fish.
gorsford <kfsee0213@...> wrote: My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too

the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies

questions
1) what is the full name of the cichlid
2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
shipped
3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
change?
4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?

If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP






---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21512 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can find in
the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to get
better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice) filter.
Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done this
morn. What else can i do?

Mem






---------------------------------
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21513 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
Angel fish are Cichlids.

What kind of cichlids did you add with the Angels?

Sounds like they were not compatible, did you research the new fish before you added them?

I have cichlids living with non cichlids, and no losses. I also have cichlids from different African lakes in one tank, not something you should do with reckless abandon but the ones I mixed do not attack each other. But then I would not put a Dovii with Discus either. Both are cichlids but the Dovii would probably destroy the discus if it was feeling territorial or hungry. Angel fish when they reach maturity will start to pair off and bully, harrass, and kill the other Angel fish. Male Angels can harrass females to the point of death.

Lot of variables in keeping cichlids, research research research.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: jasondanielrobert@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 3:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid


I bought 3 small cichlids and put them in a 55 gallon with angels. I now have over 60 cichlids and no angels. They do not work and play well with other fish.
gorsford <kfsee0213@...> wrote: My friend and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too

the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies

questions
1) what is the full name of the cichlid
2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
shipped
3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
change?
4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?

If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP

---------------------------------
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with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21514 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
not from the undergravel one. I did not even think of it. Would it
be safe to remove and treat again? I dont' want to od them.

mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Did you remove the carbon while treating for Ich? Carbon will
leach most of the medicines right out of the water.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Memrie
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:14 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ick
>
>
> My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and white
spots
> all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
find in
> the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to
get
> better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
filter.
> Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
this
> morn. What else can i do?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21515 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
85? not too high? for how long?

Mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown
ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
> all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can find
in
> the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to get
> better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
filter.
> Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
this
> morn. What else can i do?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21516 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
How much water did you remove with your last water change? Was it before or after the treatment? If it was after the treatment I would go ahead and do another (~25%), pull the carbon out, and then re-treat.

To be honest I am not as familiar with FW Ich as I am with Marine Ich. I have treated (and beat) FW Ich before, but it was a long time ago. I am currently battling Ich in my reef tank (where it is VERY difficult to treat the water as the effective medications tend to kill inverts). I am treating their food with Seachem's Metronidazole and Focus. I then use Tetra's Garlic XTreme and Cyclop-eeze to attract them to it (they don't like the medicine). I'm not sure if the Seachem products will work on FW Ich, but they seem to be doing a good job on my SW fish (maybe you could look into food supplements that might work for FW). My Ocellaris Clown was looking horrible a couple of days ago, and now is looking a bit better. I've got my fingers crossed...

Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:47 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ick


not from the undergravel one. I did not even think of it. Would it
be safe to remove and treat again? I dont' want to od them.

mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Did you remove the carbon while treating for Ich? Carbon will
leach most of the medicines right out of the water.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Memrie
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:14 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ick
>
>
> My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and white
spots
> all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
find in
> the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to
get
> better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
filter.
> Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
this
> morn. What else can i do?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21517 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
I would say at least a week

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: 85? not too high? for how long?

Mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown
ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
> all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can find
in
> the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to get
> better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
filter.
> Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
this
> morn. What else can i do?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21518 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
The water change was before treatment. That is when I noticed the
strange scratching they were doing. One reminded me of a wet dog
shaking off water. She even went to the surface and kicked her tail
out of the water. IF it wre not so serious I would hae laughed. I
will most likely wait till morn and do a 50% change and treatment.
Hopefully all will be good. I went ahead and took out the filters
now hoping it will leave enough meds in water to do some good tonight.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> How much water did you remove with your last water change? Was it
before or after the treatment? If it was after the treatment I would
go ahead and do another (~25%), pull the carbon out, and then re-
treat.
>
> To be honest I am not as familiar with FW Ich as I am with Marine
Ich. I have treated (and beat) FW Ich before, but it was a long time
ago. I am currently battling Ich in my reef tank (where it is VERY
difficult to treat the water as the effective medications tend to
kill inverts). I am treating their food with Seachem's Metronidazole
and Focus. I then use Tetra's Garlic XTreme and Cyclop-eeze to
attract them to it (they don't like the medicine). I'm not sure if
the Seachem products will work on FW Ich, but they seem to be doing a
good job on my SW fish (maybe you could look into food supplements
that might work for FW). My Ocellaris Clown was looking horrible a
couple of days ago, and now is looking a bit better. I've got my
fingers crossed...
>
> Sean
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Memrie
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:47 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ick
>
>
> not from the undergravel one. I did not even think of it. Would
it
> be safe to remove and treat again? I dont' want to od them.
>
> mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
> <scfigueroa@> wrote:
> >
> > Did you remove the carbon while treating for Ich? Carbon will
> leach most of the medicines right out of the water.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Memrie
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 3:14 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Ick
> >
> >
> > My mollies, esp the brown ones, have thier fins cinched and
white
> spots
> > all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
> find in
> > the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to
> get
> > better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
> filter.
> > Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
> this
> > morn. What else can i do?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21519 From: Memrie Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
ok I am willing to try. ty
Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...>
wrote:
>
> I would say at least a week
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote: 85? not too high? for how
long?
>
> Mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@>
> wrote:
> >
> > turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt
> >
> > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown
> ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
> > all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
find
> in
> > the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to
get
> > better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
> filter.
> > Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
> this
> > morn. What else can i do?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> > in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> It's here! Your new message!
> Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21520 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
As this malady has necessitated many remedial posts in the past, over
the years, I'm sure much can be found in the archives as we all have
posted on this subject in the past. There are of course many
medications on the market which offer treatments for this disease,
some quite effective and others not as good. Many of these "cures"
can in themselves stress fish out and weaken them, sometimes to the
point that they may get a secondary infection of some nature.

When using chemicals (which should always be kept at an absolute
minimum), there's always this risk of causing the fish further stress
if one does not know which med to use or how a particular type of
fish may react to it. Its for this reason that many of us recommend
the use of the well-known (could apparently be better known?)
chemical/med-free salt and heat treatment for Ich.

If you intend to continue with your medication, do not raise the
temperature to more than 80o (82o at most), since this (and many
other medications) will be putting stress on the fish as it is.
However, if you'd rather treat via the salt and heat treatment as
mentioned above, remove the medications by adding carbon to the
filter (if this is possible) and/or doing large water changes to
physically remove the medication. BTW, medications of less than the
recommended strength to induce a cure for Ich may only tend to
promote stonger strains of this disease in some cases, and/or serve
to prolong the treatment. The Ich Guard you are using contains
formalin, a rather harsh chemical in the presence of aquatic life
including fish, which can kill invertebrates (snails, etc.) and
weakened fish, and decimate your biological filtration.
Additionally, it is more toxic to any (including fish) aquatic life
as the water temperature increases and as the pH decreases,
especially into the acidic zone. For this reason it should not be
used in water holding a pH of much less than 7.0 or a temperature of
more than 80o if the pH is near neutral.

The heat method of treating Ich requires a MINIMUM TEMPERATURE of 86o
(note: NOT 85o -- it makes a difference). Ich cannot reproduce
itself above the temperature of 86o. In general, this is not too
high for most tropical species of fish and should not bother Mollies
provided they have not been previously weaked by medications.
Additional aeration, if at all possible, is always recommended as the
temperature is increased which helps maintain maximum oxygen
concentrations in the warmer water (which is otherwise reduced).

Salt is recommended at a minimum rate of one (1) Tablespoon (3
teaspoons) per 5 gallons, although Mollies can take up to 8 teaspoons
per gallon if done so gradually. Unless you have plants, Cory
catfish, Tetras, Loaches or Mormyrids (Elephant-Noses/"Whales") you
should be able to at least double this salt content but if you're not
sure retain only this minimum amount.

This treatment should be maintained for 3 days after you no longer
see any more traces of Ich on your fish. Some Ich may come and go
and remain with your fish for 7 days or so, in which case you should
not start reducing the heat until after the 10th day (3 days after
the last of the Ich); often the treatment is sooner but can vary.
You will just have to keep an eye on it. The 3-day leeway time is
used as Ich's lifecycle is 48 hours (2 days) at the elevated
temperature, at which point you want to take the precaution of
waiting that extra day to ensure that no further Ich Thermonts (also
called Tomites by some) exist to cause any reinfection. Ich has a 3-
stage lifecycle; the free-swimming stage is called a Thermont which
seeks out a fish host to attach itself to. Since it is no longer
reproducing, no further Thermonts are coming forth into the water
column at this end time.

After the treatment is concluded, lower the temperature gradually
over a period of several days. The salt may be removed with the
resumption of your normal weekly partial water changes. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> ok I am willing to try. ty
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I would say at least a week
> >
> > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: 85? not too high? for how
> long?
> >
> > Mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt
> > >
> > > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown
> > ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
> > > all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
> find
> > in
> > > the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem to
> get
> > > better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
> > filter.
> > > Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was done
> > this
> > > morn. What else can i do?
> > >
> > > Mem
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> > > in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > It's here! Your new message!
> > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21521 From: Alex See Date: 3/23/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
nice!
you fit 60 cichlids in a 55 gallon tank?


On 23 Mar 2007 15:45:52 -0700, Deenerz@... <Deenerz@...> wrote:
>
> Angel fish are Cichlids.
>
> What kind of cichlids did you add with the Angels?
>
> Sounds like they were not compatible, did you research the new fish before
> you added them?
>
> I have cichlids living with non cichlids, and no losses. I also have
> cichlids from different African lakes in one tank, not something you should
> do with reckless abandon but the ones I mixed do not attack each other. But
> then I would not put a Dovii with Discus either. Both are cichlids but the
> Dovii would probably destroy the discus if it was feeling territorial or
> hungry. Angel fish when they reach maturity will start to pair off and
> bully, harrass, and kill the other Angel fish. Male Angels can harrass
> females to the point of death.
>
> Lot of variables in keeping cichlids, research research research.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jasondanielrobert@... <jasondanielrobert%40yahoo.com>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 3:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
>
> I bought 3 small cichlids and put them in a 55 gallon with angels. I now
> have over 60 cichlids and no angels. They do not work and play well with
> other fish.
> gorsford <kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>> wrote: My friend
> and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
> some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
> java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too
>
> the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
> we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies
>
> questions
> 1) what is the full name of the cichlid
> 2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
> shipped
> 3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
> something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
> change?
> 4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
> fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
> 5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
> i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?
>
> If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21522 From: dylan aldred Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
We have 3 cats 2 dogs and tarantula spider . Then we have 55gal. freshwater 100gal. reef with fish and 150gal. I just broke down to rebuild. And one of my good neighbors last night said this to me. "I thought of the two of you yesterday, I was in the pet store." My reply was" really" with some irony in my voice wondering were she might be going with this. " I saw the cutest hedge hog, have you guys ever thought of having one!"
We have not thought of having a hedge hog, but for the record we would like a python snake, and a nano tank to have a sea apple. And if I win the lottery I would like to apply for my wild life Card buy lots of land and have a reserve.

----- Original Message ----
From: Memrie <mblue833@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 7:56:31 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?













I get teased not because of pets but kids. We are on baby #7. And

because of sever allergies in 2 of my kids the only animal we can

have are fish. So now I am up to 3 10 gal, 1 55 gal, 1 5 gal, and a

1 gal. There are 5 platies, 8 platy fry, 12 mollies (who btw are not

doing too well) 3 goldfish, and a pleco.



Mem

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Frederic Ouellet"

<fcouellet@. ..> wrote:

>

> Oh me too - I get teased a lot by anyone I know, and yes, my home

has been referred to as a zoo - here is what we have

>

> 4 cats, 2 dogs, 1 ferret (lost his sister this summer) 2 rats, and

5 fish tanks. We also had chinchillas whom died of old age around

Christmas time this year. :(

>

> Cynthia

>

> ----- Original Message -----

> From: Shannon Mulberry

> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com

> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:13 PM

> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?

>

>

> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one

of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human

related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So

when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding

some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so

things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke

LOL got to love them ex's NOT

>

> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time

house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom

bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4

parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish

not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-

100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in

them

>

> Shannon

>

> Karen <kmsmith90@. ..> wrote:

> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Shannon Mulberry

> <feather2night867@ > wrote:

> >

> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the

fish

> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is

chasing

> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the

> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long

> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a

tad

> more LOL

> >

> > Shannon

> >

> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson

> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the

> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool

> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is

> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the

crawlspace

> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot

is

> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't

find

> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My

> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets.

I

> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are

> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the

middle

> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo

> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty

ripe.

> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.

> karen

>

> ------------ --------- --------- ---

> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate

> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>

>

>

>

>

> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>














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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21523 From: snerticus Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick - Marine, though
I know this is slightly OT of the original question, but Sean, have
you ever used Marc Wies' Coral Vital in your reef tank?

The reason I'm asking, is because even though I no longer have salt
water tanks, I remember my first succesful reef tank years ago. Marc
Weiss had just come out with a product called Coral Vital (at that
time), and I thought I'd give it a shot with my corals. Also at the
time, I was fighting a terrible case of salt water ich with my three
fish (I remember one was a Blue Tang, but don't remember the others.
I probably had a cleaner wrasse in there because I thought it would
help)and had previously tried fighting it with reef-safe ich
treatments. They didn't work at all, and caused bad fluctuations in
my tanks's chemistry and a bad case of the slime in my prefilter and
other filter materials, so I took out the fish and quarantined them
for at least a month, (I think it was more like three, and it seemed
like forever to me). I treated them with the standard ich treatments
of the day (I think it was Coppersafe and some others - can't really
remember now). That actually took care of the ich, but I wanted my
fish back into their home tank, so at the end of the treatment, I
placed them back into the reef tank. Within THREE days, the ich was
back (after three months of quarantined treatment...). I was so
frustrated. I think I tried a different kind of "reef safe"
treatment after that which didn't even touch the ich again. Then I
said that I was gonna have a reef tank with no fish if the ich was
gonna be the death of them. The corals were doing okay, but they
weren't spectacular, so my focus started to shift to the inverts in
the tank. I started to get scrupulous with the water quality and
added a lot of supplemets. The coral did better, but then I heard
about Marc Weis's new product and figured, what the heck, I'd try
it. My corals could do better, and I remember the part of the
literature about Coral Vital that pushed me to try it was that it
said the "corals would open up more and thrive". Of course during
all this time, the ich was still a problem but at least it wasn't
getting a whole lot worse.

Well only two days after adding Coral Vital, the corals did seem much
happier, but something happened that wasn't advertised on the bottle
(which is now; I'd like to think that I had a part in that, but if I
did, it's more likely because I informed others who then informed
others and so forth until Marc Weis's company heard about it.)
Anyway, the ich in my tank was completely gone! The fish were
thriving and I couldn't beleive my eyes. It was because I put Coral
Vital in and I knew it wasn't the Vitamin, Calcium or Strontium
supplements I was using, or even that the water quality was
terrific. After about 24 hours of adding it, I remember noticing
less white spots on the fish, but I didn't give it a second thought
because it was either my mind making it up, or they WOULD have
actually been better - but then I knew it was going to get worse
again in a day or two anyway. That was how it seemed to work. Of
course day two revealed the clincher; there was only a spot or two on
each fish and by the end of the day, there were no white ich spots on
my fish! I thought I was in the presence of a miracle supplement. I
used it religiously after that. And it seemed my purple corraline
algae also took off like wildfire after that too - which may or may
not have been because of the CV.

I remember going to Marc Weis's website recently when I first set up
my current freshwater tanks to see if the company had any freshwater
formulas that I could use similar to Coral Vital (not to take care of
ich, but to make the water "invert friendly"). They do have some,
but they don't work like Coral Vital did on my reef tank. I've
stopped using them altogether in my fresh tanks, because they didn't
seem to make any difference whatsoever. But I did look up info on
Coral Vital again to see if there was any new info on the "ich
destroying" properties I discovered. There was. Evidently, Coral
Vital doesn't kill ich organisms, but it does cause them to go
dormant. That seemed to be good enough for me because the ich NEVER
came back. I also never stopped using Coral Vital, though, so I
couldn't tell you definitively if the ich would come back or not.
And I had that particular tank for almost three years before I had to
take it down after my divorce. It did as well at the end as it did
after I started using Coral Vital - and I never did any water changes
on it after the first month or two after adding CV.... I only topped
off the water. Of course I paid exemplary attention to the quality of
the water...


Snert

(If I were you, I would try it, but only after the water quality was
back to normal and the old medications were out of the tank. If you
do have a reef tank, then the inverts, corals and algaes would
benefit from it as well. And since it's not a medication, but a
supplement, there will be no ill effects on your other inverts. I do
need to tell you that I was never successful at keeping giant clams,
though. I don't know if it was the CV or just becuase they weren't
getting an element that I wasn't aware of, or maybe I had some type
of worm or other invert in the tank that just liked to eat clams.
But if you have giant clams in your tank, I just wanted you to be
aware of it.)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:

>
> To be honest I am not as familiar with FW Ich as I am with Marine
Ich. I have treated (and beat) FW Ich before, but it was a long time
ago. I am currently battling Ich in my reef tank (where it is VERY
difficult to treat the water as the effective medications tend to
kill inverts). I am treating their food with Seachem's Metronidazole
and Focus. I then use Tetra's Garlic XTreme and Cyclop-eeze to
attract them to it (they don't like the medicine). I'm not sure if
the Seachem products will work on FW Ich, but they seem to be doing a
good job on my SW fish (maybe you could look into food supplements
that might work for FW). My Ocellaris Clown was looking horrible a
couple of days ago, and now is looking a bit better. I've got my
fingers crossed...
>
> Sean
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21524 From: Memrie Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Thank you very much for the details. It really helped. BTW, I found
a baby molly this morn. It was a surprise to me.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> As this malady has necessitated many remedial posts in the past,
over
> the years, I'm sure much can be found in the archives as we all
have
> posted on this subject in the past. There are of course many
> medications on the market which offer treatments for this disease,
> some quite effective and others not as good. Many of these "cures"
> can in themselves stress fish out and weaken them, sometimes to the
> point that they may get a secondary infection of some nature.
>
> When using chemicals (which should always be kept at an absolute
> minimum), there's always this risk of causing the fish further
stress
> if one does not know which med to use or how a particular type of
> fish may react to it. Its for this reason that many of us
recommend
> the use of the well-known (could apparently be better known?)
> chemical/med-free salt and heat treatment for Ich.
>
> If you intend to continue with your medication, do not raise the
> temperature to more than 80o (82o at most), since this (and many
> other medications) will be putting stress on the fish as it is.
> However, if you'd rather treat via the salt and heat treatment as
> mentioned above, remove the medications by adding carbon to the
> filter (if this is possible) and/or doing large water changes to
> physically remove the medication. BTW, medications of less than
the
> recommended strength to induce a cure for Ich may only tend to
> promote stonger strains of this disease in some cases, and/or serve
> to prolong the treatment. The Ich Guard you are using contains
> formalin, a rather harsh chemical in the presence of aquatic life
> including fish, which can kill invertebrates (snails, etc.) and
> weakened fish, and decimate your biological filtration.
> Additionally, it is more toxic to any (including fish) aquatic life
> as the water temperature increases and as the pH decreases,
> especially into the acidic zone. For this reason it should not be
> used in water holding a pH of much less than 7.0 or a temperature
of
> more than 80o if the pH is near neutral.
>
> The heat method of treating Ich requires a MINIMUM TEMPERATURE of
86o
> (note: NOT 85o -- it makes a difference). Ich cannot reproduce
> itself above the temperature of 86o. In general, this is not too
> high for most tropical species of fish and should not bother
Mollies
> provided they have not been previously weaked by medications.
> Additional aeration, if at all possible, is always recommended as
the
> temperature is increased which helps maintain maximum oxygen
> concentrations in the warmer water (which is otherwise reduced).
>
> Salt is recommended at a minimum rate of one (1) Tablespoon (3
> teaspoons) per 5 gallons, although Mollies can take up to 8
teaspoons
> per gallon if done so gradually. Unless you have plants, Cory
> catfish, Tetras, Loaches or Mormyrids (Elephant-Noses/"Whales") you
> should be able to at least double this salt content but if you're
not
> sure retain only this minimum amount.
>
> This treatment should be maintained for 3 days after you no longer
> see any more traces of Ich on your fish. Some Ich may come and go
> and remain with your fish for 7 days or so, in which case you
should
> not start reducing the heat until after the 10th day (3 days after
> the last of the Ich); often the treatment is sooner but can vary.
> You will just have to keep an eye on it. The 3-day leeway time is
> used as Ich's lifecycle is 48 hours (2 days) at the elevated
> temperature, at which point you want to take the precaution of
> waiting that extra day to ensure that no further Ich Thermonts
(also
> called Tomites by some) exist to cause any reinfection. Ich has a
3-
> stage lifecycle; the free-swimming stage is called a Thermont which
> seeks out a fish host to attach itself to. Since it is no longer
> reproducing, no further Thermonts are coming forth into the water
> column at this end time.
>
> After the treatment is concluded, lower the temperature gradually
> over a period of several days. The salt may be removed with the
> resumption of your normal weekly partial water changes. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@> wrote:
> >
> > ok I am willing to try. ty
> > Mem
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I would say at least a week
> > >
> > > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: 85? not too high? for how
> > long?
> > >
> > > Mem--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum
<juggernaut121@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > turn the heat up to 85 and add aquarium salt
> > > >
> > > > Memrie <mblue833@> wrote: My mollies, esp the brown
> > > ones, have thier fins cinched and white spots
> > > > all over. They are scratching themselves on anything they can
> > find
> > > in
> > > > the water. I have treated with ick guard but they dont' seem
to
> > get
> > > > better. their temp is 80-82 with undergravel (not my choice)
> > > filter.
> > > > Tank gases were good on Wed and a partial water change was
done
> > > this
> > > > morn. What else can i do?
> > > >
> > > > Mem
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---------------------------------
> > > > Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
> > > > in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > It's here! Your new message!
> > > Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21525 From: Judith Downing Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Lucy Survived!
Hooray! The ice has thawed on my pond and the fish are swimming about
a little bit. They mostly stay under the floating planters but Lucy
swam out so I could see her. Now I am happy. Is it too early to start
up the pump and waterfall? This is the last week of March & it is
supposed to be in the 50's & 60's here this week.

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21526 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
If you haven't already raised the temp, it would be best if you only raised
it by 1F per day until you reach 85. You don't want to change the temp too
much, too fast, as that is a serious stressor to fish.

Here is a good article on Ich and several FW treatments, which salt/heat is
one of the safest. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

Let us know which method you use and how it is working for you.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21527 From: jane parry Date: 3/24/2007
Subject: Re: Abt: Cichlid
I have given away over 200 babies cichlids away and have plans to reduce the population again on Monday. They breed so fast it is hard to keep up with the explosion. My tank is very healthy and I work very hard to keep it that way.

I know that angelfish are cichlids. I have bred angels for a long time and have many beautiful babies in my angel tanks.

I have studied and cared for tropical fish for over 40 years. I love tropical fish and strive to give my fish the best care.

I wanted to help someone who did not know how aggressive cichlids could be. I am sorry that you did not understand my message.

Alex See <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
nice!
you fit 60 cichlids in a 55 gallon tank?

On 23 Mar 2007 15:45:52 -0700, Deenerz@... <Deenerz@...> wrote:
>
> Angel fish are Cichlids.
>
> What kind of cichlids did you add with the Angels?
>
> Sounds like they were not compatible, did you research the new fish before
> you added them?
>
> I have cichlids living with non cichlids, and no losses. I also have
> cichlids from different African lakes in one tank, not something you should
> do with reckless abandon but the ones I mixed do not attack each other. But
> then I would not put a Dovii with Discus either. Both are cichlids but the
> Dovii would probably destroy the discus if it was feeling territorial or
> hungry. Angel fish when they reach maturity will start to pair off and
> bully, harrass, and kill the other Angel fish. Male Angels can harrass
> females to the point of death.
>
> Lot of variables in keeping cichlids, research research research.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jasondanielrobert@... <jasondanielrobert%40yahoo.com>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Fri, 23 Mar 2007 3:29 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Abt: Cichlid
>
> I bought 3 small cichlids and put them in a 55 gallon with angels. I now
> have over 60 cichlids and no angels. They do not work and play well with
> other fish.
> gorsford <kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>> wrote: My friend
> and I saw the Cichlids and we loved it and decided to keep
> some of them in my 25 gallon tank that soon will be filled w/ glosso,
> java fern (lace) and hair grass. maybe some java moss too
>
> the cichlids we saw came w/ 4 colors yellow, orange, blue and white.
> we liked the small one, they were about 1". i bet they are just babies
>
> questions
> 1) what is the full name of the cichlid
> 2) habitat--(rocks or plant?) I have ordered plants and they are being
> shipped
> 3) breeding-- how big do they have to be to start breeding? I heard
> something about sexual dimorphism. does this species of cichlid do sex
> change?
> 4) community--since i am having plants, and i will have otto cat
> fishes. are they good match w/ cichlid?
> 5) should i buy the 4" size or the the 1"? we like the small ones but
> i want to breed them, so the small ones may be immature to breed?
>
> If cichilds are too hard to breed then i will stick w/ mollies...HELP
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peek at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21528 From: susanne_mischelle Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: compatability question
Hi everyone - new member here from central New York. I am currently
in the process of starting up a new 29 gallon freshwater aquarium. I
had a 20 gallon tank about 20 years ago (was high school that long
ago?!!) with platys, neons, and a catfish. That was left behind when
I left for college. I had a 10 gallon tank about 15 years ago, with 2
male bettas (divided so they couldn't get at each other). Since it's
been so long since I had a tank, I've been looking online for advice.
So much more information out there now! I would like to have a single
male betta, some neon or cardinal tetras, a catfish (peppered or panda
cory), and maybe some fancy guppies. Is there any way to actually
have all these in the same tank, or am I just deluding myself that the
betta won't consider the tiny little guppies a light snack? The
guppies at my local store are only about an inch long, including the
tail. I am willing to consider haveing a 5 to 10 gallon tank for the
betta with just a cory or two for tankmates, but I also don't want to
end up with a large tank with a zillion guppies. Can I keep a few
male guppies without adding any females, or would this just end up
being bad for them? I've also seen that livebearers like guppies do
well with a bit of salt in the water - is that a necessity, or would
they be ok without it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21529 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: compatability question
The Betta and guppies aren't a good mix. The Betta may see the long tails on
the guppies and mistake it for a rival Betta.

----- Original Message -----
From: "susanne_mischelle" <susanne_mischelle@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] compatability question


Hi everyone - new member here from central New York. I am currently
in the process of starting up a new 29 gallon freshwater aquarium. I
had a 20 gallon tank about 20 years ago (was high school that long
ago?!!) with platys, neons, and a catfish. That was left behind when
I left for college. I had a 10 gallon tank about 15 years ago, with 2
male bettas (divided so they couldn't get at each other). Since it's
been so long since I had a tank, I've been looking online for advice.
So much more information out there now! I would like to have a single
male betta, some neon or cardinal tetras, a catfish (peppered or panda
cory), and maybe some fancy guppies. Is there any way to actually
have all these in the same tank, or am I just deluding myself that the
betta won't consider the tiny little guppies a light snack? The
guppies at my local store are only about an inch long, including the
tail. I am willing to consider haveing a 5 to 10 gallon tank for the
betta with just a cory or two for tankmates, but I also don't want to
end up with a large tank with a zillion guppies. Can I keep a few
male guppies without adding any females, or would this just end up
being bad for them? I've also seen that livebearers like guppies do
well with a bit of salt in the water - is that a necessity, or would
they be ok without it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks :)



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21530 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: compatability question
You may have some problems with the long finned fish and the quick
schooling fish. If there are not enough of the latter, they may have
some fun with the fins of the former. Also, the guppies and platys have
different water requirements than the neons. In the short run, they may
be OK, but in the long run one group will suffer.

Check your water parameters in regard to pH and hardness, then start
making your fish list based on that and temperature ranges that the fish
should do well at.

While you can find a lot of information on line, you do need a well
honed sense of what is true and what is BS. You can find a wide
assortment of the latter on the web. I suggest that you find the key to
your wallet and invest in some good books to help you get started on the
right foot again. A good starting place would be the Baensch Aquarium
Atlas, Volume 1. It has a good section on getting started, and more fish
descriptions than you can shake a stick at.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of susanne_mischelle
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 2:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] compatability question

Hi everyone - new member here from central New York. I am currently
in the process of starting up a new 29 gallon freshwater aquarium. I
had a 20 gallon tank about 20 years ago (was high school that long
ago?!!) with platys, neons, and a catfish. That was left behind when
I left for college. I had a 10 gallon tank about 15 years ago, with 2
male bettas (divided so they couldn't get at each other). Since it's
been so long since I had a tank, I've been looking online for advice.
So much more information out there now! I would like to have a single
male betta, some neon or cardinal tetras, a catfish (peppered or panda
cory), and maybe some fancy guppies. Is there any way to actually
have all these in the same tank, or am I just deluding myself that the
betta won't consider the tiny little guppies a light snack? The
guppies at my local store are only about an inch long, including the
tail. I am willing to consider haveing a 5 to 10 gallon tank for the
betta with just a cory or two for tankmates, but I also don't want to
end up with a large tank with a zillion guppies. Can I keep a few
male guppies without adding any females, or would this just end up
being bad for them? I've also seen that livebearers like guppies do
well with a bit of salt in the water - is that a necessity, or would
they be ok without it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
:)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21531 From: Memrie Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
I went with the heat and salt. I have already noticed a drop in white
spots. Instead of many there are maybe one or two. I thank everyone
for the suggestons and help. I would have hated to lose two tanks
because of ick.

Mem

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> If you haven't already raised the temp, it would be best if you only
raised
> it by 1F per day until you reach 85. You don't want to change the
temp too
> much, too fast, as that is a serious stressor to fish.
>
> Here is a good article on Ich and several FW treatments, which
salt/heat is
> one of the safest. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
> Let us know which method you use and how it is working for you.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21532 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Please do not forget to keep up the treatment for at least 7 days, 10
would be better, even if your fish look to be OK. The white cysts are a
visible indicator that the parasite is present and even though they do
disappear, the parasite may still be present in another form of its
lifecycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ick

I went with the heat and salt. I have already noticed a drop in white
spots. Instead of many there are maybe one or two. I thank everyone
for the suggestons and help. I would have hated to lose two tanks
because of ick.

Mem

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> If you haven't already raised the temp, it would be best if you only
raised
> it by 1F per day until you reach 85. You don't want to change the
temp too
> much, too fast, as that is a serious stressor to fish.
>
> Here is a good article on Ich and several FW treatments, which
salt/heat is
> one of the safest. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
> Let us know which method you use and how it is working for you.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21533 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 3/26/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
you have to keep the treatment going even after all the spots are gone. one the spots have dropped off the fish, they go into your substrate and multiply and then go and free swim to attach to your fish again. This is a good time to A : keep the temp high and B: turn out the lights for a few days. This makes it very hard for them to find a host (your fish) to attach to and they eventually die.

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:30 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ick


I went with the heat and salt. I have already noticed a drop in white
spots. Instead of many there are maybe one or two. I thank everyone
for the suggestons and help. I would have hated to lose two tanks
because of ick.

Mem

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> If you haven't already raised the temp, it would be best if you only
raised
> it by 1F per day until you reach 85. You don't want to change the
temp too
> much, too fast, as that is a serious stressor to fish.
>
> Here is a good article on Ich and several FW treatments, which
salt/heat is
> one of the safest. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
>
> Let us know which method you use and how it is working for you.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21534 From: Memrie Date: 3/26/2007
Subject: Re: Ick
Trust me, I have every intention of staying with it.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Please do not forget to keep up the treatment for at least 7 days,
10
> would be better, even if your fish look to be OK. The white cysts
are a
> visible indicator that the parasite is present and even though they
do
> disappear, the parasite may still be present in another form of its
> lifecycle.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:30 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ick
>
> I went with the heat and salt. I have already noticed a drop in
white
> spots. Instead of many there are maybe one or two. I thank
everyone
> for the suggestons and help. I would have hated to lose two tanks
> because of ick.
>
> Mem
>
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > If you haven't already raised the temp, it would be best if you
only
> raised
> > it by 1F per day until you reach 85. You don't want to change
the
> temp too
> > much, too fast, as that is a serious stressor to fish.
> >
> > Here is a good article on Ich and several FW treatments, which
> salt/heat is
> > one of the safest. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
> >
> > Let us know which method you use and how it is working for you.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21536 From: azariamum1 Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost knif
hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21538 From: whjordan83 Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Bettas do not usually work well in community aquariums. I have read
times when they are recommended for a community aquarium, but I have
never had it work either. Once I followed a recommended tank set up
and fish stock and ended up with the same problem. The issue is that
bettas are slow swiming and usually like solitary in the wild (even the
females will nip the fins of males if they are kept together when not
breeding). Tetras usually are fin nippers as well and are also fast
swimmers. I think it's best to keep bettas by themselves with slow
moving water currents.

Ghost knives are not hard to keep, I have kept them in tanks with
Angelfish and Parrot Cichlids. I also have kept them in community
tanks with lots of plants and larger tetra species (Buenos Aires, Black
Skirts, Rosy, Silver Hatchets, etc.). I've also heard of some people
keeping them with Discus, but I have learned that it's best to keep
Discus in a species tank.

Hope this helps.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "azariamum1" <thebells.1@...> wrote:
>
> hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
> tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
> do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got
shreded
> and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
> fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
> kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
> can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21540 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Another fish keeper that I know, named Hailey, prepared a 10G Stocking List
which has suggestions for Betta's and tank mates in a 10G tank. I have
reproduced this list on my blog at...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml The Betta info is near the bottom.

As far as the ghost knife fish, all I know is they get really BIG and need a
really BIG tank.. as juvi's, a 40-55G and once they reach 12", a 100G+. The
profiles for most fish, on http://fish.mongabay.com have the SC section
which lists "Species Compatibility"
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of azariamum1
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 8:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish
also ghost knife fish

hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity tank as
long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to do this in the
fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded and he dies. does
anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what fish are notories fin
nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be kept with a ghost knife fish
as i would love to get one but hear they can be agressive to some fish.
thanks :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21541 From: Cory Walter Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I have a male betta that is very docil himself in a 10g tank with a black angel, golden angel, 2 cory cats and 2 red platys. They all swim together, eat together and get along great. I think the secret, though, is to make sure your betta is docil. I also have an aggressive betta who has to be by himself.....he's even aggressive to anyone who walks by his tank. The neons and black tetras have worked well with my betta, too.........

azariamum1 <thebells.1@...> wrote: hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)






---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21542 From: Memrie Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Holding onto fry?
I have a guppy that is about to burst. You can see she has gone
squarish and even see the protrusion in the canal. But no fry. I am
also treating the tank for ick with salt and heat. Would that cause
her to hold back. I have at least another week of treatment ahead and
I cannot see her holding out that long. I unfortunatly dont' have
anther tank I can put her in.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21543 From: Morganawolf1@aol.com Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also gh...
I have had a Ghost Knife fish for almost a year and he has never bothered
any of my other fish.



************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21547 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I have kept Bettas in community tanks with female Guppies, Platies,
Otocinclus, and will be keeping with H Rasboras. I'd avoid barbs, danios and
tetras, they move too fast and are nippy. Gouramis can be territorial with
Bettas, as they are both surface breathers, but I've heard it has worked for
some. A small school of cories might work too. Avoid keeping more than one
male or more than one but less than three females, and always have a back-up
tank for the Bettas in case of aggresion. By the way, a female Betta is
great population control in a livebearer tank.

Black Ghost Knifes get huge (2 ft long), need a very large aquarium to
prevent stunting, and will eat anything that will fit in thier mouths.

On 3/28/07, azariamum1 <thebells.1@...> wrote:
>
> hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
> tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
> do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
> and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
> fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
> kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
> can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21549 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21559 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21560 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/28/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Don't move her at this stage. You may do more damage than good by doing so. When she is ready to drop the young, she will drop them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Holding onto fry?

I have a guppy that is about to burst. You can see she has gone
squarish and even see the protrusion in the canal. But no fry. I am
also treating the tank for ick with salt and heat. Would that cause
her to hold back. I have at least another week of treatment ahead and
I cannot see her holding out that long. I unfortunatly dont' have
anther tank I can put her in.

Mem



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21561 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21562 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I have kept Bettas in community tanks with female Guppies, Platies,
Otocinclus, and will be keeping with H Rasboras. I'd avoid barbs, danios and
tetras, they move too fast and are nippy. Gouramis can be territorial with
Bettas, as they are both surface breathers, but I've heard it has worked for
some. A small school of cories might work too. Avoid keeping more than one
male or more than one but less than three females, and always have a back-up
tank for the Bettas in case of aggresion. By the way, a female Betta is
great population control in a livebearer tank.

Black Ghost Knifes get huge (2 ft long), need a very large aquarium to
prevent stunting, and will eat anything that will fit in thier mouths.

On 3/28/07, azariamum1 <thebells.1@...> wrote:
>
> hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
> tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
> do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
> and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
> fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
> kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
> can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21563 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21564 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Don't move her at this stage. You may do more damage than good by doing so. When she is ready to drop the young, she will drop them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Holding onto fry?

I have a guppy that is about to burst. You can see she has gone
squarish and even see the protrusion in the canal. But no fry. I am
also treating the tank for ick with salt and heat. Would that cause
her to hold back. I have at least another week of treatment ahead and
I cannot see her holding out that long. I unfortunatly dont' have
anther tank I can put her in.

Mem



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21565 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21566 From: phreeweigh Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21567 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
The truth is that any fish can be a fin nipper. Barbs are notorious fin nippers, if they are not kept in a large enough group. There are also a number of tetras that are known for nipping fins, including the black tetras mentioned by someone in this thread who has successfully kept them and a betta together. Gouramis are nippers as well, and not necessarily just of fins.

Perhaps the best thing you can do is to come up with a list of fish, and then ask how the betta may fare with them as tank mates.

Black ghosts are nocturnal fish. Black ghosts emit a weak electrical field. Black ghosts can eat anything they can get into their mouths, whether it be worms or fish. Black ghosts are interesting fish that can grow quite large.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of azariamum1
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost knife fish

hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21568 From: azariamum1 Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
hi thanks for all your help. i think i might try one in a tank that
doesnt have neons in if they are prone to nipping. and i will keep a
back up tank just in case he does get nipped. i love the ghost knofe
fish but if they get that large i doubt i would have a tank big
enough for him! thanks alot everyone have a great night :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21569 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted
I do not see any need for a wet/dry filter in a FW environment. An Ehiem canister filter would be a good choice, paired with a bio-wheel.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of phreeweigh
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 8:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need Advice, best filter for a 125 freshwater live planted

Hello, I am new to this forum. Thought I throw this out there and see
if you can help me with my dilemma/decision. I am getting ready to
set up a 125 gallon live planted freshwater aquarium and am trying to
decide on the best filter for it. I am considering a eheim wet/dry
filter. Is their an advantage to wet/dry over a good regular canister
filter? I am going low tech with the planted, not using any CO2, only
good lighting a regular fertilizing. I have quite a few low tech
planted tanks that I use eheim canister filters on and have had
satisfactory results. But none of them are as large as this and I am
thinking that if I am going to be buying a filter for it, I would like
to use the best and wonder if wet/dry would be the best way to go. Any
advice would be helpful!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21570 From: gorsford Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Any one in San Diego?
as topic
try to make some friends
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21571 From: Arindam Kar Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I have a pair of black ghost with a pair of angles, 7 zebra, a pair of
elephant nose and 8 red fin tetra :) - they are living happily since last 6
months now

arindam


On 3/28/07, azariamum1 <thebells.1@...> wrote:
>
> hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
> tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
> do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
> and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
> fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
> kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
> can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21572 From: Donna Camp Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I can suggest that you NOT put Tiger Barbs in with your Betta. I bought 2 a
couple of months ago from a LFS which had them in a tank called good
beginner fish, good community fish. They've managed to terrorize 4 beautiful
platties...

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "azariamum1" <thebells.1@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish
also ghost knife fish


hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21573 From: milind korday Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Holding onto fry?
Dear Mem,

Pl make the water soft and little warm with a very little soft if the guppy female
really want to release the baby fry. let be few plants to get shelter to hide.
hope for the god..
milind






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21574 From: Chad Plum Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
Tiger Barbs should be in a school of at least 5 and odd # are better for them then even #

Donna Camp <drollier@...> wrote: I can suggest that you NOT put Tiger Barbs in with your Betta. I bought 2 a
couple of months ago from a LFS which had them in a tank called good
beginner fish, good community fish. They've managed to terrorize 4 beautiful
platties...

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "azariamum1" <thebells.1@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:28 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish
also ghost knife fish

hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21575 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Newbie, advice wanted
Hello List,

I am new to this forum and new to tropical fish keeping. For the past 5 weeks I have been fishless cycling a 25 gallon tank and hooray........yesterday I had 0 ammonia, 0 nitrItes and NitrAtes at 40.

Now I am wondering what to put in my tank, would 5 harlequin rasboras, 3 cory cats and maybe a dwarf gourami or 2 sound like it might work for a peaceful community tank?

Thanks for your thoughts and any advice.

Barb

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21576 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
That sounds very pretty. I'd go with a single Dwarf Gourami, and up the
numbers on the Harlequins and Cories to 7 and 5 myself, and provide the
dwarf with some floating live plants, Do you plan on a Dwarf, Powder Blue
Dwarf, or a Honey Gourami?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21577 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?/ elephant nose....
I thought you weren't supposed to put more than 1 elephant nose in a tank unless the tank is extremely large and the elephant nose are then put into a school of 5 or more.? You should watch these fish, they will likely have problem with each other before too long if they haven't already.
~leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21578 From: Barb Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
> That sounds very pretty. I'd go with a single Dwarf Gourami, and up
the
> numbers on the Harlequins and Cories to 7 and 5 myself, and provide
the
> dwarf with some floating live plants, Do you plan on a Dwarf, Powder
Blue
> Dwarf, or a Honey Gourami?

Thanks for the reply.
I was worried about overstocking so was trying to keep the numbers
lower, but it would be great if I really could have a few more. I will
have to see what the LFS has, as far as which gourami I get - I think
they had some white ones the last day I was there - just said "dwarf
gourami" and I wasn't sure if one would be lonesome.
I appreciate your taking time to respond to my question.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21579 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Eclipse Catfish
Hi all. Have a question about an Eclipse Catfish. My mom went out and
bought 3 of these guys and was told that they get 5 inches max and are
peacefull. I can't find any info on these guys. I can see their appeal to
her as they do look very interesting, but would like to verify their max
size and temperament. She's had them for a few weeks and they love to hang
out with her Brown Knife and her clown loaches and are feeding well on flake
and shrimp pellets and haven't bothered her white skirt or serpai (sp?)
tetras at all.



Thanks in advance for the heads up on these guys.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21581 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Spring in the pond.
Hi everyone, HOw's your gardens looking? I finally got the goldies back outside after a long winter. I made sure that the liner was ok and checked and cleaned all the pumps and ran them for a day before I put the fish outside. I also added PondCare pond salt 1 lbs per 100 gallons and water conditioner. I found a new product the water wyth that kills off string algae. My water tests came out just perfect be tested just to be sure.
My flowers are greening up like crazy. Roses are budded out, lilies poking their heads up, columbines are thick as can be. It's too chilly out to be working in the garden. Hope it warms up soon for everyone. Spring is here at last, Gail


Thanks,
Gail Hopkins
Cell: 641-750-3062
Richdeer3@... for faster response
Visit our site at http://www.Richdeer3pondsupplies.com


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21582 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
Thanks. That be the ones she bought. Ah well, she can enjoy them for a bit
and take them in for store credit at the store I go to. Thanks for finding
them for me!



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Mrenna
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Eclipse Catfish



This site says the Sun catfish is also known as the Eclipse catfish:

http://www.aqualand <http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Catfish,%20Sun.htm>
petsplus.com/Catfish,%20Sun.htm

It does not really give a size.

According to Planet Catfish:

http://www.planetca
<http://www.planetcatfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=79112>
tfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=79112

the Sun catfish can grow to 18".

Susan





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21583 From: Will Griffin Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: New Tropical Fish Breeders Web Sites
Hello All,

I have just posted several new web sites for aquarium hobbyists and
breeders.

http://Cichlid-Breeders.com
http://Guppy-Breeders.com
http://Betta-Breeders.com
http://Killifish-Breeders.com

I have several new web sites and I have completed more work on the
others. I'm looking to do more over the coming weekend.

Please visit the web sites and if you are a breeder of tropical fish,
please let us know what you have for sale.

Sincerely;
Will Griffin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21584 From: Rich Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
Hi, I did a google search & found some info. they are called sun
catfish & other diffrent names.Try there I hope that helps.
Rich







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "The Dragon Hunter"
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all. Have a question about an Eclipse Catfish. My mom went out
and
> bought 3 of these guys and was told that they get 5 inches max and
are
> peacefull. I can't find any info on these guys. I can see their
appeal to
> her as they do look very interesting, but would like to verify
their max
> size and temperament. She's had them for a few weeks and they love
to hang
> out with her Brown Knife and her clown loaches and are feeding well
on flake
> and shrimp pellets and haven't bothered her white skirt or serpai
(sp?)
> tetras at all.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for the heads up on these guys.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21585 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/29/2007
Subject: Re: Eclipse Catfish
I hope you have a HUGE tank.

They grow to 18" each... and catfish are notorious waste creators.

Here is a profile on the "Horabagrus brachysoma",
aka-Bullseye Catfish, Golden Red Tail Catfish, Solar Catfish, Sun Catfish.

http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=159

but this one,

http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=33

is often confused and sold incorrectly but it only grows to 11"

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21586 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Barb,

Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the dwarf
gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish. I've
generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings and also
provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium. Rather
than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books, they would take
over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even with larger fish
present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when they
chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and queen of the
tank.

My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the proper
conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with the dwarfs,
with the male building a bubble nest and courting the female, if not
actual breeding.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 1:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

> That sounds very pretty. I'd go with a single Dwarf Gourami, and up
the
> numbers on the Harlequins and Cories to 7 and 5 myself, and provide
the
> dwarf with some floating live plants, Do you plan on a Dwarf, Powder
Blue
> Dwarf, or a Honey Gourami?

Thanks for the reply.
I was worried about overstocking so was trying to keep the numbers
lower, but it would be great if I really could have a few more. I will
have to see what the LFS has, as far as which gourami I get - I think
they had some white ones the last day I was there - just said "dwarf
gourami" and I wasn't sure if one would be lonesome.
I appreciate your taking time to respond to my question.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21587 From: Rick Rattie Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?/ elephant nose....
I had Elephant Noses in a 75 gallon tank housed with an assortment of Freshwater Shrimp, some plecostomus, a couple of HiFin Banded Sharks back when very little was known about them and a few Baby Whales. The tank was well stocked in plants and driftwood. The Elephant Noses were never aggressive in my tank and fed on live black worms or tubifex worms.

Rick


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21588 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Barb,

Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the dwarf gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish. I've generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings and also
provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium. Rather than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books, they would take over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even with larger fish
present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when they chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and queen of the tank.

My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the proper conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with the dwarfs, with the male building a bubble nest and courting the female, if not
actual breeding.

\\Steve//

Thanks for that.
It sounds like the gouramis should be the last in the tank then?

What about the others? Should I get the corys first and then 2 or 3 weeks later get the rasboras? or get both cory and rasboras on first trip tp LFS?

Thanks in advance, I'd like to do it right the first time :)
Barb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21589 From: Judith Downing Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Spring in the pond.
Dear Gail,

You mentioned in your message that you "found a new product that
kills off string algae." Could you please tell me what it is? I
always have a problem when summer finally arrives in the pond. Thanks.

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21590 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Hi Barb,

I'd add the Cories, then the Rasboras a week or two later. Stocking slowly
is better than all at once, so as not to overwhelm your biofilter causing a
minicycle. That'd be quite frustrating after all those weeks babysitting an
empty tank! If you can definitively sex the Gouramis, a male female pair
should be fine, but two males will be territorial in a tank that size. I've
never been confident enough in my ability to tell the difference to try it.
Hornwort is a great live plant to add if you haven't grown aquatic plants
before. It grows fast, doesn't need special lights, fertilizers, special
substrate or co2 injections, and you can leave it floating for the Gouramis.
Good Luck!

~Maria


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21591 From: quietari Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Sea Co2 Reactor 500
Does anyone have any experience with this piece of hardware? I just
bought\installed it, but i am not seeing the elevation in C02 levels i
had hoped for. I am unsure if i should be turning the dial all the way
to the "+" or the "-" to get maximum co2 distribution into my tank.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21592 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: which fish are fin nippers?re siamese fighting fish also ghost
I have cories, neons and red claw crabs in with my
male bettas. They are doing fine together so far.
The cories are easy going and the neons keep to
themselves. The crabs stay hidden most of the time
but I have seen my male flare at them. Hope this
helps some...



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> hi ive been told a siamese fighting fish can be kept in a comunity
> tank as long as no other siamese are in there, and i have managed to
> do this in the fast years ago, however in the end his fins got shreded
> and he dies. does anyone know what fish can be kept with him and what
> fish are notories fin nipers!. also does anyone know what fish can be
> kept with a ghost knife fish as i would love to get one but hear they
> can be agressive to some fish. thanks :-)
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21593 From: Barb Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Thank you Maria for your reply.

After you mentioned the floating live plant in your first reply I looked
around on Google to see what might work for a complete novice and found
reference to Hornwort and also Riccia. I'll see if the pet store has
any when I get there next week (I hope) - we live out in the sticks so
don't get there all that often.


Would the pet store be able to sex the gouramis, or is that asking too
much?

Anyway, will probably get the corys first and go from there.

Thanks again, I appreciate your help.

Barb


> I'd add the Cories, then the Rasboras a week or two later. Stocking
slowly
> is better than all at once, so as not to overwhelm your biofilter
causing a
> minicycle. That'd be quite frustrating after all those weeks
babysitting an
> empty tank! If you can definitively sex the Gouramis, a male female
pair
> should be fine, but two males will be territorial in a tank that size.
I've
> never been confident enough in my ability to tell the difference to
try it.
> Hornwort is a great live plant to add if you haven't grown aquatic
plants
> before. It grows fast, doesn't need special lights, fertilizers,
special
> substrate or co2 injections, and you can leave it floating for the
Gouramis.
> Good Luck!
>
> ~Maria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21594 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Overwhelmed
I am trying to research what I need to set up a new aquarium but I am
lost in cyberspace.
I have a 75 gallon I need to figure out a filter and heater for. The
water needs to be slow moving, greenish but clean and 75F at a minimum.
Can some members give me an idea on the filter and heater without a
price tag involving mortaging my house?
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21595 From: deus-ex-maria Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Barb,

As far as accurately sexing the Gouramis, it depends on the employees and
the pet store in question. A small, owner ran store where the owner has been
breeding fish for years and really knows his/her stuff, I'd trust easily. A
teenager at Petsmart, no way. They couldn't even tell the difference between
male and female Platies at my closest box store. Use your judgement, if they
seem like they know what they're talking about and they offer a return
policy if you get them home and they don't work out, go for it.

I'm a bit out in the country myself, I know what you mean. Although, with
the menagerie I've brought home so far, it's probably a good thing I don't
have convenient access to more!

~Maria


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21596 From: Wendie Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Depending on the type of Gouramis, they are fairly easy to sex.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: deus-ex-maria
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted


Barb,

As far as accurately sexing the Gouramis, it depends on the employees and
the pet store in question. A small, owner ran store where the owner has been
breeding fish for years and really knows his/her stuff, I'd trust easily. A
teenager at Petsmart, no way. They couldn't even tell the difference between
male and female Platies at my closest box store. Use your judgement, if they
seem like they know what they're talking about and they offer a return
policy if you get them home and they don't work out, go for it.

I'm a bit out in the country myself, I know what you mean. Although, with
the menagerie I've brought home so far, it's probably a good thing I don't
have convenient access to more!

~Maria

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21597 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Wher eis everyone?
What's a nano tank and sea apple???



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> We have 3 cats 2 dogs and tarantula spider . Then we have 55gal. freshwater
> 100gal. reef with fish and 150gal. I just broke down to rebuild. And one of my
> good neighbors last night said this to me. "I thought of the two of you
> yesterday, I was in the pet store." My reply was" really" with some irony in
> my voice wondering were she might be going with this. " I saw the cutest hedge
> hog, have you guys ever thought of having one!"
> We have not thought of having a hedge hog, but for the record we would like
> a python snake, and a nano tank to have a sea apple. And if I win the
> lottery I would like to apply for my wild life Card buy lots of land and
> have a reserve.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Memrie <mblue833@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, March 23, 2007 7:56:31 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I get teased not because of pets but kids. We are on baby #7. And
>
> because of sever allergies in 2 of my kids the only animal we can
>
> have are fish. So now I am up to 3 10 gal, 1 55 gal, 1 5 gal, and a
>
> 1 gal. There are 5 platies, 8 platy fry, 12 mollies (who btw are not
>
> doing too well) 3 goldfish, and a pleco.
>
>
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Frederic Ouellet"
>
> <fcouellet@. ..> wrote:
>
>>
>
>> Oh me too - I get teased a lot by anyone I know, and yes, my home
>
> has been referred to as a zoo - here is what we have
>
>>
>
>> 4 cats, 2 dogs, 1 ferret (lost his sister this summer) 2 rats, and
>
> 5 fish tanks. We also had chinchillas whom died of old age around
>
> Christmas time this year. :(
>
>>
>
>> Cynthia
>
>>
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>
>> From: Shannon Mulberry
>
>> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>
>> Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2007 8:13 PM
>
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher eis everyone?
>
>>
>
>>
>
>> Oh you know that makes me feel so much better, thought I was one
>
> of the few that lived in a house of chaos that wasn't always human
>
> related other than them bringing home more creatures of some sort. So
>
> when I say I need to catch up on water changes truly I'm not kidding
>
> some days, need to get a extension hose for the other syphon so
>
> things can get done a little faster again as the other one got broke
>
> LOL got to love them ex's NOT
>
>>
>
>> Animal inventory LOL 1 tarantula, 1 bunny, 1 frog, 2 full time
>
> house cats, 2 indoor/outdoor cats (everyone is fixed but the big tom
>
> bad me but be kind to your neighbors right?), 1 100lb dog, 4
>
> parakeets, 5 cockatiels, 1 paint, 1 quarter horse, don't count fish
>
> not sure if I can count that high LOL but there are 52 tanks from 2g-
>
> 100g and I don't count tupperware containers with killifish fry in
>
> them
>
>>
>
>> Shannon
>
>>
>
>> Karen <kmsmith90@. ..> wrote:
>
>> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, Shannon Mulberry
>
>> <feather2night867@ > wrote:
>
>> >
>
>> > Also around here the tarantula is swimming with the fish, the
>
> fish
>
>> are chasing the cat, the cat is chasing the dog, the dog is
>
> chasing
>
>> the birds, the birds are chasing the kid, the kid is chasing the
>
>> horses and the bunny is supervising when someone slows down long
>
>> enough, I catch up water changes I maybe able to participate a
>
> tad
>
>> more LOL
>
>> >
>
>> > Shannon
>
>> >
>
>> Are you in my house? Nope, I don't have a bunny anymore, grandson
>
>> hugged it to death. But my 3 (rescued) large dogs are chasing the
>
>> elderly chiuaua; the 2 (rescued) housecats have escaped to "fool
>
>> around" with the neighbors 20 lb tomcat; The one outdoor kitty is
>
>> locked in the basement with new kittens (found them in the
>
> crawlspace
>
>> below garage floating in mud and muck); Hobo, the quaker parrot
>
> is
>
>> screeching at the top of his lungs at all the commotion, I can't
>
> find
>
>> my husband's ball python! It has never escaped in 3 years. My
>
>> daughter moved into her first apartment and left me her ferrets.
>
> I
>
>> have seahorses and clownfish as my personal pets. The rest are
>
>> supposed to be hubby's and the kids so how did I end up in the
>
> middle
>
>> of this zoo? Oh, one of the cats or ferrets fished 2 huge turbo
>
>> snails out of my sump last night and they are smelling pretty
>
> ripe.
>
>> Poor snails. Can you divorce animals? Nah I wouldn't do that.
>
>> karen
>
>>
>
>> ------------ --------- --------- ---
>
>> Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
>
>> in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
>
>>
>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>>
>
>>
>
>>
>
>>
>
>>
>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21598 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Roxanne,

What do you planning on having inside this aquarium?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: elementalclay@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 3:20 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed


I am trying to research what I need to set up a new aquarium but I am
lost in cyberspace.
I have a 75 gallon I need to figure out a filter and heater for. The
water needs to be slow moving, greenish but clean and 75F at a minimum.
Can some members give me an idea on the filter and heater without a
price tag involving mortaging my house?
Thanks much,
Roxanne



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21599 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Hi Mike,
Yes, I am keeping the 75 gallon tank in the living room. It's for
breeding red claw crayfish.
The fry will be moved to an outside tank when it is warm enough.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21600 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Hey that's cool.

I have one blue cray right now.

I use a lot of sponge filters, also aqua clear filters.

As great as the Aqua Clears are if you don't clean them regularly the sponge can rise up out of the inside and water will fall on the floor, but you can adjust the water flow on them to reduce the current. A bio wheel won't back up on to the floor but their is no way to slow the current down(that I know of). Also take into consideration the cost of replacing the biowheel filter cartridges. The wheels last practically forever but you need to change the cartridges periodically.
A canister might be a good idea, but then it would probably have a high current. Most of them have a valve you might use to slow the current, or get a diffuers to spread out the current into mini streams of water. Sponge filters are fairly cheap and only need an air pump to make them work. Not a lot of current that way.
I am using about 20+ sponge filters in my fish room right now.

You want to make sure your crayfish don't climb out of the tank. That has been my fear since I got my blue one, as well as my cherry shrimp and Amano shrimp. I try not to have cords they can climb out of the tank with.
Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: elementalclay@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 4:39 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed


Hi Mike,
Yes, I am keeping the 75 gallon tank in the living room. It's for
breeding red claw crayfish.
The fry will be moved to an outside tank when it is warm enough.
Roxanne



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21601 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Hi Mike,
If I do this right the red claws will get to be about 12 inches long
in 7 months.
I'll check into the sponge filter. Do they come in several sizes?
PetSmart and Walmart are just about all I have as far as stores to
purchase filters from.
We are going to modify a swimming pool pump for the grow out tank.
The tank I want to keep in the house has a top that has 1/4 inch
screen so that should keep them from going on a walk about.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21602 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Another easy to grow and fast growing plant is Anacharis (aka Elodea). You
can float it also so it takes in CO2 from the air as well as from the water.
It also helps to reduce nitrogenous waste and other excess nutrients, caused
by decaying fish poop, in your water. Hornwort is also supposed to have an
allopathic secretion that aids in inhibiting algae growth. I have both
anacharis and hornwort in most of my tanks. You can also plant the
anacharis but it does fine floating and seems to grow faster since it is
closer to the light and gets more CO2.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 4:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted


Thank you Maria for your reply.

After you mentioned the floating live plant in your first reply I looked
around on Google to see what might work for a complete novice and found
reference to Hornwort and also Riccia. I'll see if the pet store has any
when I get there next week (I hope) - we live out in the sticks so don't
get there all that often.


Would the pet store be able to sex the gouramis, or is that asking too much?

Anyway, will probably get the corys first and go from there.

Thanks again, I appreciate your help.

Barb


> I'd add the Cories, then the Rasboras a week or two later. Stocking
slowly
> is better than all at once, so as not to overwhelm your biofilter
causing a
> minicycle. That'd be quite frustrating after all those weeks
babysitting an
> empty tank! If you can definitively sex the Gouramis, a male female
pair
> should be fine, but two males will be territorial in a tank that size.
I've
> never been confident enough in my ability to tell the difference to
try it.
> Hornwort is a great live plant to add if you haven't grown aquatic
plants
> before. It grows fast, doesn't need special lights, fertilizers,
special
> substrate or co2 injections, and you can leave it floating for the
Gouramis.
> Good Luck!
>
> ~Maria
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21603 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
What kind of fish are you thinking about. Why are you looking for "slow
moving, greenish" water?

Most tropical fish like 4-6X filtration/circulation. Goldfish need closer
to 10X filtration because they get BIG and put out lots of ammonia/waste.
Many fish will do fine in your tank but others need even a bigger tank.

For tropical's, there are a several suitable filters that would cost less
than $100.00... so unless you live in Barbie's Toy Mansion, you won't have
to make you and Barbie homeless to buy a filter. ;)

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 5:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed

I am trying to research what I need to set up a new aquarium but I am lost
in cyberspace.
I have a 75 gallon I need to figure out a filter and heater for. The
water needs to be slow moving, greenish but clean and 75F at a minimum.
Can some members give me an idea on the filter and heater without a price
tag involving mortaging my house?
Thanks much,
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21604 From: Roxanne Brown Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
-Hi Lenny,
This isn't for fish but for red claw crayfish. I tried to find a north American yahoo group but
had no luck. Most folks grow red claw in a tropical pond.
I'm not going to lead you on buddy. I want to grow these for the table and in all the
research I did on Yahoo Groups this one seems to be the best as far as how to maintain an
aquarium properly with very little personal chatter or spam.
Roxanne
, >>"NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of fish are you thinking about. Why are you looking for "slow
> moving, greenish" water?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21605 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
It would mainly depend on how you cycle the tank. If you have done a fishless cycle, or you are using the fish to cycle the tank. I prefer the former, all too many people do the latter. If you are doing the latter, I'd probably start with the gouramis, and end with the cory's. Let each group of fish go through their own created cycle before you add more fish.

If you have done the fishless cycle, then you can probably add the fish all at the same time with very little disruption to the cycle.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allison & Barb Rose
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 10:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Barb,

Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the dwarf gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish. I've generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings and also
provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium. Rather than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books, they would take over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even with larger fish
present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when they chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and queen of the tank.

My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the proper conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with the dwarfs, with the male building a bubble nest and courting the female, if not
actual breeding.

\\Steve//

Thanks for that.
It sounds like the gouramis should be the last in the tank then?

What about the others? Should I get the corys first and then 2 or 3 weeks later get the rasboras? or get both cory and rasboras on first trip tp LFS?

Thanks in advance, I'd like to do it right the first time :)
Barb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21606 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
It is extremely easy to sex wild color dwarf gouramis. The problem is finding females. The same goes with all the color variations--finding the females. Over the last 10-15 years, it has become exceedingly hard to find females of many species of fish that are commercially raised. It has always been problematical with wild caught fish where males are normally the colorful sex and females are often plain or duller in color.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of deus-ex-maria
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 3:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Hi Barb,

I'd add the Cories, then the Rasboras a week or two later. Stocking slowly
is better than all at once, so as not to overwhelm your biofilter causing a
minicycle. That'd be quite frustrating after all those weeks babysitting an
empty tank! If you can definitively sex the Gouramis, a male female pair
should be fine, but two males will be territorial in a tank that size. I've
never been confident enough in my ability to tell the difference to try it.
Hornwort is a great live plant to add if you haven't grown aquatic plants
before. It grows fast, doesn't need special lights, fertilizers, special
substrate or co2 injections, and you can leave it floating for the Gouramis.
Good Luck!

~Maria


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21607 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Anacharis is not a good plant for warm water aquaria. It des best when water temperatures are in the mid 60's or lower.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 6:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Another easy to grow and fast growing plant is Anacharis (aka Elodea). You
can float it also so it takes in CO2 from the air as well as from the water.
It also helps to reduce nitrogenous waste and other excess nutrients, caused
by decaying fish poop, in your water. Hornwort is also supposed to have an
allopathic secretion that aids in inhibiting algae growth. I have both
anacharis and hornwort in most of my tanks. You can also plant the
anacharis but it does fine floating and seems to grow faster since it is
closer to the light and gets more CO2.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 4:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted


Thank you Maria for your reply.

After you mentioned the floating live plant in your first reply I looked
around on Google to see what might work for a complete novice and found
reference to Hornwort and also Riccia. I'll see if the pet store has any
when I get there next week (I hope) - we live out in the sticks so don't
get there all that often.


Would the pet store be able to sex the gouramis, or is that asking too much?

Anyway, will probably get the corys first and go from there.

Thanks again, I appreciate your help.

Barb


> I'd add the Cories, then the Rasboras a week or two later. Stocking
slowly
> is better than all at once, so as not to overwhelm your biofilter
causing a
> minicycle. That'd be quite frustrating after all those weeks
babysitting an
> empty tank! If you can definitively sex the Gouramis, a male female
pair
> should be fine, but two males will be territorial in a tank that size.
I've
> never been confident enough in my ability to tell the difference to
try it.
> Hornwort is a great live plant to add if you haven't grown aquatic
plants
> before. It grows fast, doesn't need special lights, fertilizers,
special
> substrate or co2 injections, and you can leave it floating for the
Gouramis.
> Good Luck!
>
> ~Maria



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21608 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
LOL
I used to catch "wild" crays in the creeks and ponds near my parent's home as a teenager. Tasted great in butter!

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: elementalclay@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 7:26 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Overwhelmed


-Hi Lenny,
This isn't for fish but for red claw crayfish. I tried to find a north American yahoo group but
had no luck. Most folks grow red claw in a tropical pond.
I'm not going to lead you on buddy. I want to grow these for the table and in all the
research I did on Yahoo Groups this one seems to be the best as far as how to maintain an
aquarium properly with very little personal chatter or spam.
Roxanne
, >>"NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What kind of fish are you thinking about. Why are you looking for "slow
> moving, greenish" water?
>



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21609 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
Hi Roxanne,

WOW, big crays!

I am not sure if the crays will use their claws to tear up the sponge or not. My little guy was eating one of my Anubias plants the other day. But that was a plant and not a sponge.

Here is a link to a pic of the sponges I use.
http://www.kensfish.com/files/hydro__5.jpg

I buy them from this guy most of the time, as well as fish food and other supplies.
http://www.kensfish.com/ati.html

But you can get them other places online.
http://www.jehmco.com/PRODUCTS_/FILTRATION/Hydro-Sponge_Filters/hydro-sponge_filters.html


http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?filteration&1175750066

http://cgi.ebay.com/HYDRO-SPONGE-FILTER-5-Hospital-Filter-Bio-filter_W0QQitemZ220096693581QQcategoryZ46310QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


I don't know if you have ever used them before. When they get "dirty" you take them out of the tank and get a bucket of tank water and just squeeze it and wring it out in the bucket of old tank water. Then put it back in the tank and it still has the benefeficial bacteria it needs. Never rinse it in untreated tap water or hot water. They last a long time and almost never need to be replaced. Unlike filter cartridges that need to be replaced monthly.

My 2 cents : )

Mike






-----Original Message-----
From: elementalclay@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed


Hi Mike,
If I do this right the red claws will get to be about 12 inches long
in 7 months.
I'll check into the sponge filter. Do they come in several sizes?
PetSmart and Walmart are just about all I have as far as stores to
purchase filters from.
We are going to modify a swimming pool pump for the grow out tank.
The tank I want to keep in the house has a top that has 1/4 inch
screen so that should keep them from going on a walk about.
Roxanne



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21610 From: Aaron Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Claws
Hi Roxanne,

How long have you had yours? How many do you have?

I have a Male that is about 7 or 8 inches, not sure how to measure.

He has not molted in several months. I wanted to know from someonelse
who has kept these how to take care of them.

What kind of substrate are you using?

What do you feed them?

I was thinking of buying some crushed coral or cichlid type of
substrate to help with the calcium, but did not know if the high pH
8.5 was too much.

Should I just supplement with liquid calcium and iodine and what else
and how much?


Thanks,

Aaron



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Yes, I am keeping the 75 gallon tank in the living room. It's for
> breeding red claw crayfish.
> The fry will be moved to an outside tank when it is warm enough.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21611 From: Aaron Date: 3/30/2007
Subject: Red Claw Original Post
Hi Roxanne,

this is my original post from when I first got him.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <anonymous122899@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I have posted pics of the large colorful crayfish in question in
the
> album titled "* What is this?". It is about 10 inches long
depending
> on how you measure it. These are my first experiences with Crayfish.
>
> How do you measure crayfish anyway?
>
> It has apparently killed the other two 3 - 4" long crayfish that
> were in with it. The first completely disappeared without a trace,
> so it might have escaped into the hungry mouths of the curious
> Kitty's. The 2ND was just taken out of the community tank 24hours
> after molting a 2ND time to reveal large enough looking claws that
I
> was concerned for the safety of my fish. Several hours later it was
> found laying sideways minus its new front claws and arms.
>
> What to do with the corpse?
>
> It is frozen for now as it was left uneaten for 12 hours in the
> tank. I was hoping the big one would at least eat it if it did kill
> it.
>
> Can I feed it to the community tank? Raw?
>
> The big crayfish has not been seen bothering any of the fish and
> seems to prefer prepared foods like shrimp pellets, algae wafers
and
> freeze dried krill.
>
> What else can/should I feed it?
>
> It often has shrimp walking all over it and small fish hiding in
the
> cave with it. Because of this I assumed it to be peace-full and was
> surprised to find the smaller dead. It shares the aquarium with an
> aggressive Male Betta and feeder shrimp and some feeder guppies. It
> is currently in a 15 gallon with a large hollow log looking piece
of
> driftwood that takes up 90% of the bottom 3rd of the tank with a
> tall branch reaching to the top. The crawdad easily fits into it
and
> spends most of its time in there. The bottom is bare at the moment
> as I am trying to find out the best substrate to use. I want to use
> Under Gravel Filters.
>
> What is a good substrate to use that will not compact so easily?
>
> Does the crawdad need to burrow?
>
> If so is there a certain kind of substrate that will work best?
>
> It was a planted tank but I had to take everything out and start
> over because this crawdad is so big that it just uprooted all the
> plants, moved around all the driftwood and pushed up all the gravel
> against the front like the large cichlids do.
>
> I've read somewhere here about putting filter pad or similar
> material on top of the UGF plates to keep them from getting the
> slits clogged or blocked.
>
> thanks,
> Aaron
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21612 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
I see no one has answered your question about heaters. If you just need a 75° temperature, and you are keeping your room temperature at 70° or a bit more, two 75 watt heaters should do it for you. If you wish to keep the temperature in the tank a bit more, or your room is normally cooler, use 2 100 watt heaters.

You might question the use of 2 heaters rather than buying one of 150 or 200 watts, but it is prudent to do so. If one heater has a problem, gets stuck on, or simply stops working, the other will be able to maintain a temperature in your tank that you want, or, in the case of stuck on, the one will not raise the temperature significantly. Though heaters, for the most part, are significantly less prone to these problems than they were years ago, there is still a chance of such things happening.

As for brands, I like Supremes (I have some more than 40 years old), and Ebo Jager.

Since you are looking to keep crayfish, you are not likely to want the tank filled all the way to the top, so look for a submersible heater, rather than a strictly hang off the back heater. Most brands have a line of these.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Friday, March 30, 2007 6:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed

I am trying to research what I need to set up a new aquarium but I am
lost in cyberspace.
I have a 75 gallon I need to figure out a filter and heater for. The
water needs to be slow moving, greenish but clean and 75F at a minimum.
Can some members give me an idea on the filter and heater without a
price tag involving mortaging my house?
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21613 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
> If you have done the fishless cycle, then you can probably add the
fish all at the same time with very little disruption to the cycle.
>
>
> \\Steve//

Thanks for that Steve, I did do a fishless cycle and wondered if just
adding a few fish would keep the bacteria at their present level or if
adding too many fish would induce a mini cycle. It would be nice to add
them all at once, but I wasn't sure which would be best.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21614 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
> Anacharis is not a good plant for warm water aquaria. It des best
when water temperatures are in the mid 60's or lower.
>
>
> \\Steve//

I didn't really know what would be suitable, so appreciate your telling
me that. I will look for Hornwort or Riccia as this will be a tropical
tank.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21615 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Anubias, Java Fern and Java Moss are also good plants to start. Java
fern does not require a lot of light, as do some other plants.
Vallisneria or Sagittaria are also good plants, but do not particularly
mix very well with each other, as I recall. Pick one or the other.

\\Steve//

"The first of April is the day we remember what we are
the other 364 days of the year." -- Mark Twain

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 7:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

> Anacharis is not a good plant for warm water aquaria. It des best
when water temperatures are in the mid 60's or lower.
>
>
> \\Steve//

I didn't really know what would be suitable, so appreciate your telling
me that. I will look for Hornwort or Riccia as this will be a tropical
tank.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21616 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Hi Barb,

If you fishless cycled using the 4-5ppm plain ammonia method and your tank
is "cycling" the 4-5ppm of ammonia in the 8-12 hours, then technically, your
tank is fully cycled for a full bio-load of juvenile fish.

Reportedly, a full bio-load of tropical fish, in a properly stocked and
filtered tank create around 4-5ppm of ammonia per day. This is what the
"fishless cycling system" was partially based on... (and that according to
many reports, if you use more than 4-5ppm of the plain ammonia, it would
cause the fishless cycle to stall in the beginning). As long as you've been
adding the 4-5ppm of ammonia each day, then when you are ready to add your
fish, do the 90-95% PWC, refill with pre-treated water and add your fish...
after acclimating them, of course.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted


> If you have done the fishless cycle, then you can probably add the
fish all at the same time with very little disruption to the cycle.
>
>
> \\Steve//

Thanks for that Steve, I did do a fishless cycle and wondered if just adding
a few fish would keep the bacteria at their present level or if adding too
many fish would induce a mini cycle. It would be nice to add them all at
once, but I wasn't sure which would be best.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21617 From: Snerticus, but you can call me Snert Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Aquariums - MORE than just for keeping aquatic critters!
Hey all, I thought I'd let you in on something I found out - well,
actually I knew about but didn't know how to put into practice -
about the "other" uses of a stocked aquarium.

In February, I ordered some miniature roses for indoor plants. Well,
during shipping (or maybe even my cat is to blame!) two of the
branches with flower buds broke, but were still attached to the
plants. I cut them off and since I have 2 five gallon plant tanks
with outside hang-on filters (and aqua-clear mini and a Walmart brand
with no lid) I decided to put the budded stems in my filter boxes to
have them bloom in there instead of a small bud vase. Well, one of
the buds from one filter dropped off, leaving only the leaves and
they were dying quickly. The other took about a week and a half to
bloom, but eventually it did, and it was beatiful. Both my tanks are
on the upper kitchen counter between my kitchen and living room area,
so the buds actually made them look pretty good. I thought that the
flowered stem just might root in the filter, but after the flower
faded, the leaves shriveled up and the stem rotted. But the other
stem, I forgot about and about a week later noticed it again and went
to throw that away as well. Lo and Behold, the leaves were no longer
shriveled and I wondered why. I went to take out the stem and it had
about 3 inches of rooting to it. Now, after about three weeks in my
filter, the rose stem has over six inches of roots and new growth on
it! I can't believe it. Also, I had planted dill seeds and just
last week removed the excess seedlings so the best plants would grow
better. I cleaned off the roots of the "runt" seedlings and stuck
them in my filters... they are both growing phenomenally! I can't
understand since the roots of both dill and roses are completely
submerged in the water, but I'm guessing that aeration from the fast
moving water in the filters are aerating the roots adequately enough
for growth. I would LOVE to devise a method of having the water flow
from my aquariums to a "planter aquarium" to get filtered and then
flow that filtered water back to the original tanks. Kind of like a
refugium for houseplants! :)

On a side note, you can do this with marine tanks too, but I'm
guessing only with mangrove plants, since I don't know of any other
salt-tolerant plant out there.

It's like having a hydroponic garden in my kitchen!!!

Snert
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21618 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Steve,

Mine grows well floating in my tropical tanks. It sends down root shoots
and forms new sprouts. I'll agree that it does not grow as fast as in my
goldfish tank but I attributed that to the higher nitrogenous compounds and
CO2 available in a goldfish tank. It does do OK in the tropical tanks
though.. but I keep my tropical's around 78-80 so maybe in higher temps it
would do worse... but then I also use to keep it floating and planted in my
ponds and it grew like crazy in those also... and down here in N'Awlins :D,
the surface temps during the summer would often get much higher than 80F.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

> Anacharis is not a good plant for warm water aquaria. It des best
when water temperatures are in the mid 60's or lower.
>
>
> \\Steve//

I didn't really know what would be suitable, so appreciate your telling me
that. I will look for Hornwort or Riccia as this will be a tropical tank.

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21619 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Steve,
Are these floating plants or do they need to be "planted" in the gravel to survive? I was really just thinking of a floating plant ( that was suggested for the gouramis to feel more at home).

Thanks
Barb

Anubias, Java Fern and Java Moss are also good plants to start. Java
fern does not require a lot of light, as do some other plants.
Vallisneria or Sagittaria are also good plants, but do not particularly
mix very well with each other, as I recall. Pick one or the other.

\\Steve//


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21620 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Hi Lenny,
Thanks for that. I have read both approaches on the internet, some say add fish slowly and others say it's cycled so add them all. The LFS is not really very local, as we live out in the sticks, so it would be great to make one trip and get them all at once, as long as it's the right thing to do!

Thanks
Barb

<snip>
If you fishless cycled using the 4-5ppm plain ammonia method and your tank
is "cycling" the 4-5ppm of ammonia in the 8-12 hours, then technically, your tank is fully cycled for a full bio-load of juvenile fish.
<snip>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Anubias needs a substrate to be anchored in.

Java fern needs something to attach to, usually people tie it to
driftwood until it attaches itself.

Java moss is not rooted, nor does it really float, but it will remain
near the bottom, and eventually anchor itself, somewhat, to an object.
Unlike the previous two plants, it does not have roots per se.

Val and sag are plants that need substrate to root in.

While some think that dwarf gouramis need floating plants, this is not
really the case. I've always done best with them using rooted plants,
which actually gives them a place to hide in. I think the theory of
floating plants comes from the fact that they will incorporate plant
bits into the bubble nests they will build. However, so long as there is
vegetable matter in the water column, they can generally find all the
vegetation bits they want to use in their nests, and even then, the
vegetation is not necessary.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Allison & Barb Rose
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 2:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Steve,
Are these floating plants or do they need to be "planted" in the gravel
to survive? I was really just thinking of a floating plant ( that was
suggested for the gouramis to feel more at home).

Thanks
Barb

Anubias, Java Fern and Java Moss are also good plants to start. Java
fern does not require a lot of light, as do some other plants.
Vallisneria or Sagittaria are also good plants, but do not particularly
mix very well with each other, as I recall. Pick one or the other.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21622 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: New to the group
Hi everyone,

Looking forward to chatting with you all and learning from you.

I really enjoy fishkeeping. I have 3 water features with fish.

I have a 32 gallon tropical tank with the following fish:

6 black tetres
3 dwarf gouramis (1 female, 2 male)
2 burmese loach
1 striped loach (not sure the exact name for this one- looks like a
zebra)
1 rainbow shark

I have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.

I have an outdoor pond that's about 200 gallons with 3 koi. Up here
in Canada we have harsh winters so the koi are just starting to get
out of their hibernation at this point.

Nice meeting you all. Write me and tell me what fish you have.

Kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21623 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
My dwarf gouramis (2 male 1 female) have always been very peaceful.
I think this can be attributed to my rainbow shark who keeps them in
check if they get out of line. He chases them every now and again.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Allison & Barb Rose"
<allison.rose@...> wrote:
>
> Barb,
>
> Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the dwarf
gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish.
I've generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings
and also
> provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium.
Rather than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books, they
would take over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even
with larger fish
> present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when
they chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and
queen of the tank.
>
> My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the
proper conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with the
dwarfs, with the male building a bubble nest and courting the female,
if not
> actual breeding.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> Thanks for that.
> It sounds like the gouramis should be the last in the tank then?
>
> What about the others? Should I get the corys first and then 2 or 3
weeks later get the rasboras? or get both cory and rasboras on first
trip tp LFS?
>
> Thanks in advance, I'd like to do it right the first time :)
> Barb
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21624 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
There is a southern form, do not know if it is a separate species for sure right now, but I think it is, that can survive in warmer water. There is really no way to tell which you have until it either survives or does not do well, so it is best not to chance it. Even the northern anacharis can survive in warmer water for a time, but it will eventually decline.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 12:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Steve,

Mine grows well floating in my tropical tanks. It sends down root shoots
and forms new sprouts. I'll agree that it does not grow as fast as in my
goldfish tank but I attributed that to the higher nitrogenous compounds and
CO2 available in a goldfish tank. It does do OK in the tropical tanks
though.. but I keep my tropical's around 78-80 so maybe in higher temps it
would do worse... but then I also use to keep it floating and planted in my
ponds and it grew like crazy in those also... and down here in N'Awlins :D,
the surface temps during the summer would often get much higher than 80F.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 6:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

> Anacharis is not a good plant for warm water aquaria. It des best
when water temperatures are in the mid 60's or lower.
>
>
> \\Steve//

I didn't really know what would be suitable, so appreciate your telling me
that. I will look for Hornwort or Riccia as this will be a tropical tank.

Barb



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21625 From: Steve Szabo Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Are you keeping the dwarf gouramis in the conditions that they like?
That is key. If they do not have a number of hiding places and places
where they can feel safe, they will not become aggressive, but show the
timidity they are generally credited with. If you are keeping them as
they like, you could have an extremely passive group, or the attentions
are divided among themselves. I've seen the dwarf hand fish that are
know to be aggressive that were several times the size of the dwarfs to
the point that the fish would disappear when the dwarfs came out to swim
in the open.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 5:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted


My dwarf gouramis (2 male 1 female) have always been very peaceful.
I think this can be attributed to my rainbow shark who keeps them in
check if they get out of line. He chases them every now and again.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Allison & Barb Rose"
<allison.rose@...> wrote:
>
> Barb,
>
> Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the dwarf
gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish.
I've generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings
and also
> provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium.
Rather than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books, they
would take over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even
with larger fish
> present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when
they chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and
queen of the tank.
>
> My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the
proper conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with the
dwarfs, with the male building a bubble nest and courting the female,
if not
> actual breeding.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> Thanks for that.
> It sounds like the gouramis should be the last in the tank then?
>
> What about the others? Should I get the corys first and then 2 or 3
weeks later get the rasboras? or get both cory and rasboras on first
trip tp LFS?
>
> Thanks in advance, I'd like to do it right the first time :)
> Barb
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21626 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Red Claws
Hi Aaron,
I don't have them yet. Doing all the research and then setting up the
tank a couple of weeks before I go get them.
You can find a lot of information on http://www.lobsterpond.com
Phone was down all day and I need to run now but I want to thank
everyone for their responses and shall go shopping for
filters and heaters.
As far as algae goes, I have a natural pond on the land and was
wondering if I bring in some of that water and warm it up I might grow
some algae from that and get the greenish water they speak of.
Thanks so much folks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21627 From: NHSNOLA Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Make sure you understand a "full bio-load of juvenile fish". Here is my
blog article on "A better set of guidelines to replace the fish-killing 1"
rule" so you will have an idea on stocking. Since you know about fishless
cycling, you will understand the premise behind this blog article. Some
people do not follow proper stocking guidelines and thus do overstock their
tanks and in those cases, a fishless cycle would not be sufficient.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Remind me what your tank size is and what your proposed stocking was and we
can crunch the numbers.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Allison & Barb Rose
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 1:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Hi Lenny,
Thanks for that. I have read both approaches on the internet, some say add
fish slowly and others say it's cycled so add them all. The LFS is not
really very local, as we live out in the sticks, so it would be great to
make one trip and get them all at once, as long as it's the right thing to
do!

Thanks
Barb

<snip>
If you fishless cycled using the 4-5ppm plain ammonia method and your tank
is "cycling" the 4-5ppm of ammonia in the 8-12 hours, then technically, your
tank is fully cycled for a full bio-load of juvenile fish.
<snip>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21628 From: Barb Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Remind me what your tank size is and what your proposed stocking was
and we
> can crunch the numbers.

Hi Lenny,
My tank is 25 gallon and I wanted some corys some harlequin rasboroas
and maybe a dwarf gourami or two - what do you think?

Thanks
Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21629 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 3/31/2007
Subject: Re: Overwhelmed
In rgeards to a biowheel filter and the copst of replacing the cartridges,
you can pull these cartridges out and rinse them of debris and reuse them.
This can allow you to extend the life of the cartridge. If you want fresh
activated carbon, you can slit the cartridge and remove the used carbon and
replace it with fresh at a fraction of the cost of replacement cartridges.

The Marineland Emperor series of biowheel filters have a feature where the
flow is reduced when you feed fish. You can just use this feature all the
time to have an all around reduced flow.

I believe I have a P. Clarkii pulled out of a local pond here in eastern
North Carolina that I have had about six or seven months. It is now about
five inches long, one molt during that time, sharing a 75 gal tank with two
10 inch Warmouths, a 4 inch Flier, a 6 inch Pumpkinseed, two 5 inch
Warmouths and a 6 inch Bream. It lives in one of two caves in the tank. I
used to have two crayfish obtained at the same time but after being left
alone for about four months apparently upset one of the larger fish and was
eaten.

Good luck with your endeavor!

On 3/30/07, Deenerz@... <Deenerz@...> wrote:
>
> Hey that's cool.
>
> I have one blue cray right now.
>
> I use a lot of sponge filters, also aqua clear filters.
>
> As great as the Aqua Clears are if you don't clean them regularly the
> sponge can rise up out of the inside and water will fall on the floor, but
> you can adjust the water flow on them to reduce the current. A bio wheel
> won't back up on to the floor but their is no way to slow the current
> down(that I know of). Also take into consideration the cost of replacing the
> biowheel filter cartridges. The wheels last practically forever but you need
> to change the cartridges periodically.
> A canister might be a good idea, but then it would probably have a high
> current. Most of them have a valve you might use to slow the current, or get
> a diffuers to spread out the current into mini streams of water. Sponge
> filters are fairly cheap and only need an air pump to make them work. Not a
> lot of current that way.
> I am using about 20+ sponge filters in my fish room right now.
>
> You want to make sure your crayfish don't climb out of the tank. That has
> been my fear since I got my blue one, as well as my cherry shrimp and Amano
> shrimp. I try not to have cords they can climb out of the tank with.
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: elementalclay@... <elementalclay%40webtv.net>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Fri, 30 Mar 2007 4:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Overwhelmed
>
> Hi Mike,
> Yes, I am keeping the 75 gallon tank in the living room. It's for
> breeding red claw crayfish.
> The fry will be moved to an outside tank when it is warm enough.
> Roxanne
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21630 From: Kevin Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Raising PH
Hello all,

So I have a question about raising PH. I switched from a Carbo-Block CO2 system to a much
more efficient CO2 injection, but now, my PH is is geting very low (I have naturally low PH
water out of the tap, and also when I run DI)

Up till now I've been using baking soda to raise PH, but I was told it can be hard on delicate
plants and on some delicate fish. So my question is, what's the best, easiest way to raise PH
WITHOUT some sort of buffer that wil mess up the KH/PH CO2 conversion?

Thanks in advance!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21631 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Do you know what kind of corys? Here is Mongabay's list of Cory Profiles...

http://www.google.com/custom?domains=mongabay.com&q=cory&sa=Search&sitesearc
h=fish.mongabay.com&client=pub-5292544863418232&forid=1&channel=1103186800&i
e=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23336699%3
BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3ADFFF0C%3BALC%3A0000FF%3B
LC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BLH%3A50%3BLW%3A20
0%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.mongabay.com%2Fimages%2Fmongabay_search_logo.gif%3B
S%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.mongabay.com%3BFORID%3A1%3B&hl=en

or if it wraps... http://preview.tinyurl.com/2sbsyu

Cory's are shoaling fish and like to be kept in groups of 3 or more.
Depending on the species, they can grow to only 1" or at large as 4" each.
You should probably go for some that grow no larger than 2" so the bioload
would fit in with your tank size and other fish plans.

The Harlequin Rasbora's,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Rasbora_heteromorpha.html , grow to 1.5" to
1.75" and should be kept in schools of 6 or more... but they are not listed
as being compatible with Dwarf Gourami's according to a couple of the below
profiles. The paragraph starting with SC lists "Species Compatibility".

Do you like Zebra Danio's?
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Brachydanio_rerio.html
or Pearl Danio's? http://fish.mongabay.com/danios.htm
If you like them, then a school of them would be more compatible. There are
also longer finned varieties. Make sure you have at least two females for
every male to minimize mating chases. If you want more color than the
mostly black/white zebra danios, you could go with the
http://www.GloFish.com, fluorescent Zebra Danio's in your choice of neon
fluorescent color, red, orange or green. These are not dyed fish but rather
genetically enhanced with a gene that causes the fluorescent effect and
color. I don't like dyed fish but can't really complain about genetic
changes since I have goldfish and some of the things breeders are doing with
goldfish baffles my mind. LOL

What species of Dwarf Gourami's were you interested in? Here is Mongabay's
list of Dwarf Gourami profiles, etc. Most DG's only grow to around 2" but
Raspbora's are not listed as being compatible with them. I did see Zebra
Danio's as a suitable tankmate for DG.

http://www.google.com/custom?domains=mongabay.com&q=dwarf+gourami&sa=Search&
sitesearch=fish.mongabay.com&domains=fish.mongabay.com%3Brainforests.mongaba
y.com%3Btravel.mongabay.com&client=pub-5292544863418232&forid=1&channel=1103
186800&ie=ISO-8859-1&oe=ISO-8859-1&cof=GALT%3A%23008000%3BGL%3A1%3BDIV%3A%23
336699%3BVLC%3A663399%3BAH%3Acenter%3BBGC%3AFFFFFF%3BLBGC%3ADFFF0C%3BALC%3A0
000FF%3BLC%3A0000FF%3BT%3A000000%3BGFNT%3A0000FF%3BGIMP%3A0000FF%3BLH%3A50%3
BLW%3A200%3BL%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.mongabay.com%2Fimages%2Fmongabay_search_log
o.gif%3BS%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.mongabay.com%3BFORID%3A1%3B&hl=en or if it
wraps... http://preview.tinyurl.com/2qvc5o

Subject to the exact species of Corys and Dwarf Gourami's that you choose,
you could probably handle four 2" Cory's, a school of six 2"+ Danio's and
one or two Dwarf Gouramis. That would pretty much fill up your stocking.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 8:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Remind me what your tank size is and what your proposed stocking was and we
> can crunch the numbers.

Hi Lenny,
My tank is 25 gallon and I wanted some corys some harlequin rasboroas
and maybe a dwarf gourami or two - what do you think?

Thanks
Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21632 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Raising PH
You probably want to look for some dolomite or similar which you can mix with your substrate or add to your filter which should help bring up your hardness, which may, in turn, help your pH.

\\Steve//

"The first of April is the day we remember what we are
the other 364 days of the year." -- Mark Twain


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Raising PH

Hello all,

So I have a question about raising PH. I switched from a Carbo-Block CO2 system to a much
more efficient CO2 injection, but now, my PH is is geting very low (I have naturally low PH
water out of the tap, and also when I run DI)

Up till now I've been using baking soda to raise PH, but I was told it can be hard on delicate
plants and on some delicate fish. So my question is, what's the best, easiest way to raise PH
WITHOUT some sort of buffer that wil mess up the KH/PH CO2 conversion?

Thanks in advance!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21633 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: aquasaurus
Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits
for the aquasaurus. I saw some om ebay while looking
for fish supplies and thought I might get one for the
boys. They are really interesting creatures although
their life span is really short. Anyone have any
experience with them?

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21634 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Hi everyone,

I'm looking forward to learning some things from this group. I
really enjoy keeping all sorts of fish.

I have one 35 gallon tropical tank which has the following fish in it:

3 dwarf gouramis (2 male, 1 female)
6 black neon tetras
1 rainbow shark
2 burmese loachs
1 striped loach (not sure of actual name - looks like a zebra)

The dynamics of this tank are excellent. The loaches get along very
well and play around all the time. The rainbow shark enjoys the
company of the loaches as well. "Sharky" as we call him, is full
grown at about 5 inches. He chases the gouramis if they get out of
line. My burmese loaches are also full grown;however, the striped
loach is a recent addition and is only about 1 1/2 inches.

I also have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.

I also have a 200 gallon pond with three koi fish. They are about 5-
6 inches long at this point. I started the pond last spring and the
koi were bought at 1 inch (they were small!). Being in Canada, my
pond is slowly warming now and the koi are just coming out of
hibernation but are not being fed just yet.

Tell me what kind of fish keeping you do, and what kind of fish you
have! I would be very interested to know!

Kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21635 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Google triops to find information about the critters. There are several
web sites, as I recall, devoted to their care and feeding, etc. I don't
know about the kits on EBay, but you can probably find out more on those
web sites you find with Google.

Also, I believe it was on this list, there was a discussion on triops,
and you could find some information there. Just do a search from the
home page of this list.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 2:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] aquasaurus

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits
for the aquasaurus. I saw some om ebay while looking
for fish supplies and thought I might get one for the
boys. They are really interesting creatures although
their life span is really short. Anyone have any
experience with them?

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21636 From: Patti M Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Adding 2nd fish to FOWLR tank
Hi, I purchased the 55 gallon FOWLR saltwater tank with a
little "nemo" in it, just two large live rock (need to add more) and
have had it at my house for about a month now. Everything seems
fine, so I would like to add a fish - a friend for him. Nemo swims
fast, is playful, puts his head out of the top of the water to "talk"
to me, etc. He is very lonely.

WHAT FISH COULD I ADD THAT MIGHT GET ALONG AND COMPLIMENT HIM, HE IS
THE LITTLE ORANGE CLOWN WITH THE 3 WHITE STRIPES?

LFS is suggesting angel or tang...... I do want some of those
crawling bleenies, etc. too, later.


thanks


also, can anyone suggest where I can get good live rock in Dallas, TX
area, and what kind.

I am looking into adding the coralife 2 bulbs-96 watts. for
saltwater, have a good deal maybe for 36 inch for $125 with legs and
a moonlite. used about 6 months, so they say. I thing that is GOOD
lighting, but don't know, so I am off to the local fish store.

Patti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21638 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
No, I didn't even think about that, duh! Thanks,
I'll try it.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> They look like Triops. Have you gone to www.google.com and looked them up?
> There is a lot of information and even a Yahoo Triops group.
>
> Susan
> www.knitalittle.com
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SusansKnitPatterns/
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21639 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Ok, I'll check the home page too....

Thanks,
Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Google triops to find information about the critters. There are several
> web sites, as I recall, devoted to their care and feeding, etc. I don't
> know about the kits on EBay, but you can probably find out more on those
> web sites you find with Google.
>
> Also, I believe it was on this list, there was a discussion on triops,
> and you could find some information there. Just do a search from the
> home page of this list.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 2:19 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] aquasaurus
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits
> for the aquasaurus. I saw some om ebay while looking
> for fish supplies and thought I might get one for the
> boys. They are really interesting creatures although
> their life span is really short. Anyone have any
> experience with them?
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21640 From: Memrie Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
My understanding is that they are messy. I have met several people
that have had them that wish they had never started. But then there
are people that wish they had never started with fish either.

mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits
> for the aquasaurus. I saw some om ebay while looking
> for fish supplies and thought I might get one for the
> boys. They are really interesting creatures although
> their life span is really short. Anyone have any
> experience with them?
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21641 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Google or Yahoo Search "Triops Longicaudatus" as that is what the aquasaurus
is. While I'm not a big fan of Wikipedia, there link did come up on top on
my search so here it is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triops_longicaudatus

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] aquasaurus

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits for the aquasaurus. I
saw some om ebay while looking for fish supplies and thought I might get one
for the boys. They are really interesting creatures although their life span
is really short. Anyone have any experience with them?

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21642 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/1/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Hi Kelly Anne,

You might want to use http://fish.mongabay.com and use their "Search" box to
find profiles on all of your fish and learn more about their care and
preferences. The striped loach that looks like a zebra could be a Zebra
Loach or a YoYo Loach, off the top of my head. Check out the profiles on
both and see which one you have. Their profiles also list Species
Compatibility and Tank Size recommendations so you can make sure your fish
stay compatible and are in the best sized tank. As fish mature, their
personalities and needs change and what might work today when they are
juveniles, may not work in a few months.

As a mostly goldfish keeper, but also with a rescued/adopted seriously
overstocked 10G tropical tank, which I promptly separated into my 65G, and
extra 20G and 10G tanks that I had, I can tell you that your 20G tank won't
work very long for 3 comets... not even 1 comet would work for very long in
a 20G tank. Maybe, 50G per comet would work in the long term if the tank is
a long tank. Here is a simple set of guidelines for stocking fish that I
and others came up with a couple of years ago... to replace the fish killing
antiquated 1" rule that is so common in the hobby.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Fish - http://GoldLenny.Blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Another newcomer - Hello All!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking forward to learning some things from this group. I really enjoy
keeping all sorts of fish.

I have one 35 gallon tropical tank which has the following fish in it:

3 dwarf gouramis (2 male, 1 female)
6 black neon tetras
1 rainbow shark
2 burmese loachs
1 striped loach (not sure of actual name - looks like a zebra)

The dynamics of this tank are excellent. The loaches get along very well
and play around all the time. The rainbow shark enjoys the
company of the loaches as well. "Sharky" as we call him, is full
grown at about 5 inches. He chases the gouramis if they get out of line.
My burmese loaches are also full grown;however, the striped loach is a
recent addition and is only about 1 1/2 inches.

I also have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.

I also have a 200 gallon pond with three koi fish. They are about 5-
6 inches long at this point. I started the pond last spring and the koi
were bought at 1 inch (they were small!). Being in Canada, my pond is
slowly warming now and the koi are just coming out of hibernation but are
not being fed just yet.

Tell me what kind of fish keeping you do, and what kind of fish you have! I
would be very interested to know!

Kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21643 From: Barb Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
>The Harlequin Rasbora's,
... but they are not listed as being compatible with Dwarf Gourami's
according to a couple of the below profiles. The paragraph starting
with SC lists "Species Compatibility".<

Hi Lenny,
I had used the chart below and it said that Dwarf Gourami and Rasbora
were compatible.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/fwcompatibility_chart.cfm




> Subject to the exact species of Corys and Dwarf Gourami's that you
choose,
> you could probably handle four 2" Cory's, a school of six 2"+
Danio's and
> one or two Dwarf Gouramis. That would pretty much fill up your
stocking.<

This is about what I had in mind for numbers, I thank you for your
help, much appreciated!

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21644 From: Patti M. Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Coralife Contact Info
Hi, I just bought a second hand set of compact lights from Coralife, but they came with no info.

Does anyone have the contact info, email addy, phone number, etc. so I can get the owners manual.

It is for the 36" Aqualight Double Linear Strip, saltwater. 96 watt 10,000K and 96 watt True Actinic 03 Blue square pin base compact fluorescent lamps

Thanks!
Clueless in DFW
Patti







---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21645 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Correction - I misread the SC listing on the profile for Harlequin
Rasbora's... http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Rasbora_heteromorpha.html
After I looked again, I saw "Colisa" listed which include the Dwarf
Gourami's. I guess I didn't have my browser page opened wide enough and
Colisa was on the far right.

Sorry... I can't believe Steve S. didn't correct me on this. :D

But... while we're on the subject of compatibility charts...

While that DrsFosterSmith compatibility chart is a good start, there is NO
100% effective chart that I've found anywhere on the net. There are just
too many variables to consider. Here is my blog article on many other
charts...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/fish-compatibility-charts-fish.html

As you will see, I do list that chart as well as others... but I also
include the HUGE disclaimer...

"NOTICE: ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT COMPATIBILITY CHARTS ARE SUBJECT TO MANY
VARIABLES AND MAY NOT BE AS ACCURATE AS YOU WOULD LIKE SINCE OTHER FACTORS
IN YOUR TANK/SETUP MAY INFLUENCE FISH BEHAVIOR. WHEN A CHART SAYS TWO FISH
ARE COMPATIBLE, IT MAY NOT BE CLEAR IN SAYING THEY NEED TO BE IN A HUGE TANK
SO THEY EACH HAVE THEIR OWN TERRITORY. PLEASE CHECK YOUR TANK SETUP AND
COMPATIBILITY IN A COMPETENT FORUM BEFORE RELYING SOLELY ON A CHART."

You are doing the right thing by asking here first.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 6:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

>The Harlequin Rasbora's,
... but they are not listed as being compatible with Dwarf Gourami's
according to a couple of the below profiles. The paragraph starting with SC
lists "Species Compatibility".<

Hi Lenny,
I had used the chart below and it said that Dwarf Gourami and Rasbora were
compatible.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/fwcompatibility_chart.cfm




> Subject to the exact species of Corys and Dwarf Gourami's that you
choose,
> you could probably handle four 2" Cory's, a school of six 2"+
Danio's and
> one or two Dwarf Gouramis. That would pretty much fill up your
stocking.<

This is about what I had in mind for numbers, I thank you for your
help, much appreciated!

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21646 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Hi Lenny,

Thank you for your reply.

All the fish in my tropical tank are adults except for one, and I did
do much research before purchasing fish for this tank. I've had the
tank running now for almost a year and all levels are zero. I am
very committed to my maintenance and do 30% water changes once a week
with vacuuming.

Yes it is a zebra loach, thanks for that!

Yes you are so right about my comets and I'm very well aware that
they will quickly outgrow the tank. I actually rescued these comets
from the "feeder" tanks at my local pet store. It's our plan this
summer to build another bigger pond in the backyard (our current one
is in the front yard), in which we want to transfer the koi. And
then it's my plan to put the three comets in the front yard pond (200
gallons). Sound like a good plan to you?

Thanks for your advice!
Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Kelly Anne,
>
> You might want to use http://fish.mongabay.com and use
their "Search" box to
> find profiles on all of your fish and learn more about their care
and
> preferences. The striped loach that looks like a zebra could be a
Zebra
> Loach or a YoYo Loach, off the top of my head. Check out the
profiles on
> both and see which one you have. Their profiles also list Species
> Compatibility and Tank Size recommendations so you can make sure
your fish
> stay compatible and are in the best sized tank. As fish mature,
their
> personalities and needs change and what might work today when they
are
> juveniles, may not work in a few months.
>
> As a mostly goldfish keeper, but also with a rescued/adopted
seriously
> overstocked 10G tropical tank, which I promptly separated into my
65G, and
> extra 20G and 10G tanks that I had, I can tell you that your 20G
tank won't
> work very long for 3 comets... not even 1 comet would work for very
long in
> a 20G tank. Maybe, 50G per comet would work in the long term if
the tank is
> a long tank. Here is a simple set of guidelines for stocking fish
that I
> and others came up with a couple of years ago... to replace the
fish killing
> antiquated 1" rule that is so common in the hobby.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.Blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Another newcomer - Hello All!
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm looking forward to learning some things from this group. I
really enjoy
> keeping all sorts of fish.
>
> I have one 35 gallon tropical tank which has the following fish in
it:
>
> 3 dwarf gouramis (2 male, 1 female)
> 6 black neon tetras
> 1 rainbow shark
> 2 burmese loachs
> 1 striped loach (not sure of actual name - looks like a zebra)
>
> The dynamics of this tank are excellent. The loaches get along
very well
> and play around all the time. The rainbow shark enjoys the
> company of the loaches as well. "Sharky" as we call him, is full
> grown at about 5 inches. He chases the gouramis if they get out of
line.
> My burmese loaches are also full grown;however, the striped loach
is a
> recent addition and is only about 1 1/2 inches.
>
> I also have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.
>
> I also have a 200 gallon pond with three koi fish. They are about
5-
> 6 inches long at this point. I started the pond last spring and
the koi
> were bought at 1 inch (they were small!). Being in Canada, my pond
is
> slowly warming now and the koi are just coming out of hibernation
but are
> not being fed just yet.
>
> Tell me what kind of fish keeping you do, and what kind of fish you
have! I
> would be very interested to know!
>
> Kelly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21647 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
Well they are not in shallow water or anything, but I have lots of
plant cover that they like to mingle in. They like the floating
plants best and each male has his own little "spot" that is his.
They certainly don't act timid, with me or the other fish. But they
are not bullies either. I'm glad! That is one thing I have found
frustrating with this hobby... if you don't have just the right mix
you get bullies. I once had golden rams and they were the WORST for
bullying all my other fish. I gave them away to a friend of mine
very quickly.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Are you keeping the dwarf gouramis in the conditions that they like?
> That is key. If they do not have a number of hiding places and
places
> where they can feel safe, they will not become aggressive, but show
the
> timidity they are generally credited with. If you are keeping them
as
> they like, you could have an extremely passive group, or the
attentions
> are divided among themselves. I've seen the dwarf hand fish that are
> know to be aggressive that were several times the size of the
dwarfs to
> the point that the fish would disappear when the dwarfs came out to
swim
> in the open.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2007 5:18 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted
>
>
> My dwarf gouramis (2 male 1 female) have always been very
peaceful.
> I think this can be attributed to my rainbow shark who keeps them
in
> check if they get out of line. He chases them every now and again.
>
> Kelly
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Allison & Barb Rose"
> <allison.rose@> wrote:
> >
> > Barb,
> >
> > Do keep in mind, that if you provide the conditions that the
dwarf
> gouramis like, they can become rather aggressive toward other fish.
> I've generally given them plenty of cover in the way of plantings
> and also
> > provided a nice swimming area for all the fish in the aquarium.
> Rather than exhibit the timid behavior spoken of in most books,
they
> would take over the tank and be the bosses of the tank, often even
> with larger fish
> > present. Much of the time they would stay under cover, but when
> they chose to show themselves, they were the undisputed king and
> queen of the tank.
> >
> > My preference would be for a pair. With a pair, again, given the
> proper conditions, you are likely to see breeding behaviors with
the
> dwarfs, with the male building a bubble nest and courting the
female,
> if not
> > actual breeding.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > Thanks for that.
> > It sounds like the gouramis should be the last in the tank then?
> >
> > What about the others? Should I get the corys first and then 2 or
3
> weeks later get the rasboras? or get both cory and rasboras on
first
> trip tp LFS?
> >
> > Thanks in advance, I'd like to do it right the first time :)
> > Barb
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21648 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie, advice wanted
<<Sorry... I can't believe Steve S. didn't correct me on this. :D>>

Couldn't, never tried keeping Trigonostigma (Rasbora) heteromorpha with
Colisas. I suspected the statement was not correct, but did not have any
proof one way or the other. From what I know about the fish, it is very
peaceful among conspecifics and other species.

I did see zebras mentioned in one of the messages, and I can state, with
no reservations, that they do make good tankmates for the dwarfs, at
least the way I kept them.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 6:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

Correction - I misread the SC listing on the profile for Harlequin
Rasbora's... http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Rasbora_heteromorpha.html
After I looked again, I saw "Colisa" listed which include the Dwarf
Gourami's. I guess I didn't have my browser page opened wide enough and
Colisa was on the far right.

Sorry... I can't believe Steve S. didn't correct me on this. :D

But... while we're on the subject of compatibility charts...

While that DrsFosterSmith compatibility chart is a good start, there is
NO
100% effective chart that I've found anywhere on the net. There are
just
too many variables to consider. Here is my blog article on many other
charts...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/fish-compatibility-charts-fish.htm
l

As you will see, I do list that chart as well as others... but I also
include the HUGE disclaimer...

"NOTICE: ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT COMPATIBILITY CHARTS ARE SUBJECT TO MANY
VARIABLES AND MAY NOT BE AS ACCURATE AS YOU WOULD LIKE SINCE OTHER
FACTORS
IN YOUR TANK/SETUP MAY INFLUENCE FISH BEHAVIOR. WHEN A CHART SAYS TWO
FISH
ARE COMPATIBLE, IT MAY NOT BE CLEAR IN SAYING THEY NEED TO BE IN A HUGE
TANK
SO THEY EACH HAVE THEIR OWN TERRITORY. PLEASE CHECK YOUR TANK SETUP AND
COMPATIBILITY IN A COMPETENT FORUM BEFORE RELYING SOLELY ON A CHART."

You are doing the right thing by asking here first.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be
to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files
and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 6:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie, advice wanted

>The Harlequin Rasbora's,
... but they are not listed as being compatible with Dwarf Gourami's
according to a couple of the below profiles. The paragraph starting
with SC
lists "Species Compatibility".<

Hi Lenny,
I had used the chart below and it said that Dwarf Gourami and Rasbora
were
compatible.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/fwcompatibility_chart.cfm




> Subject to the exact species of Corys and Dwarf Gourami's that you
choose,
> you could probably handle four 2" Cory's, a school of six 2"+
Danio's and
> one or two Dwarf Gouramis. That would pretty much fill up your
stocking.<

This is about what I had in mind for numbers, I thank you for your
help, much appreciated!

Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21649 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
Sounds like a plan. I've never had Koi. They just get too big for any pond
I could put on a city/suburb sized lot.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!

Hi Lenny,

Thank you for your reply.

All the fish in my tropical tank are adults except for one, and I did do
much research before purchasing fish for this tank. I've had the tank
running now for almost a year and all levels are zero. I am very committed
to my maintenance and do 30% water changes once a week with vacuuming.

Yes it is a zebra loach, thanks for that!

Yes you are so right about my comets and I'm very well aware that they will
quickly outgrow the tank. I actually rescued these comets from the "feeder"
tanks at my local pet store. It's our plan this summer to build another
bigger pond in the backyard (our current one is in the front yard), in which
we want to transfer the koi. And then it's my plan to put the three comets
in the front yard pond (200 gallons). Sound like a good plan to you?

Thanks for your advice!
Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Kelly Anne,
>
> You might want to use http://fish.mongabay.com and use
their "Search" box to
> find profiles on all of your fish and learn more about their care
and
> preferences. The striped loach that looks like a zebra could be a
Zebra
> Loach or a YoYo Loach, off the top of my head. Check out the
profiles on
> both and see which one you have. Their profiles also list Species
> Compatibility and Tank Size recommendations so you can make sure
your fish
> stay compatible and are in the best sized tank. As fish mature,
their
> personalities and needs change and what might work today when they
are
> juveniles, may not work in a few months.
>
> As a mostly goldfish keeper, but also with a rescued/adopted
seriously
> overstocked 10G tropical tank, which I promptly separated into my
65G, and
> extra 20G and 10G tanks that I had, I can tell you that your 20G
tank won't
> work very long for 3 comets... not even 1 comet would work for very
long in
> a 20G tank. Maybe, 50G per comet would work in the long term if
the tank is
> a long tank. Here is a simple set of guidelines for stocking fish
that I
> and others came up with a couple of years ago... to replace the
fish killing
> antiquated 1" rule that is so common in the hobby.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.Blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Another newcomer - Hello All!
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm looking forward to learning some things from this group. I
really enjoy
> keeping all sorts of fish.
>
> I have one 35 gallon tropical tank which has the following fish in
it:
>
> 3 dwarf gouramis (2 male, 1 female)
> 6 black neon tetras
> 1 rainbow shark
> 2 burmese loachs
> 1 striped loach (not sure of actual name - looks like a zebra)
>
> The dynamics of this tank are excellent. The loaches get along
very well
> and play around all the time. The rainbow shark enjoys the
> company of the loaches as well. "Sharky" as we call him, is full
> grown at about 5 inches. He chases the gouramis if they get out of
line.
> My burmese loaches are also full grown;however, the striped loach
is a
> recent addition and is only about 1 1/2 inches.
>
> I also have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.
>
> I also have a 200 gallon pond with three koi fish. They are about
5-
> 6 inches long at this point. I started the pond last spring and
the koi
> were bought at 1 inch (they were small!). Being in Canada, my pond
is
> slowly warming now and the koi are just coming out of hibernation
but are
> not being fed just yet.
>
> Tell me what kind of fish keeping you do, and what kind of fish you
have! I
> would be very interested to know!
>
> Kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21650 From: Cina Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
I got my daughter this kit a couple years ago, they are messy.
Fascinating to watch, but the tank gets really dirty really fast.
You have to do a cleaning at least once a day if not more. If you
lapse just one day, it stinks.

>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:19 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] aquasaurus
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits for the
aquasaurus. I
> saw some om ebay while looking for fish supplies and thought I
might get one
> for the boys. They are really interesting creatures although their
life span
> is really short. Anyone have any experience with them?
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21651 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
I returned from vacation tonight to find four dead fish in various stages of
decay in my 29 gallon tank and one fish dying. All of the dead fish and the
dying one were platys The rest of my fish, the 4 neons, 5 tetras, the three
remaining platys (one adult and two fry) 1 adult molly and 2 molly fry, and
4 barbs, looked awful.

I immediately tested nitrites and ammonia- nitrites were fine but ammonia
was through the roof. I did a pwc the day I left and readings were fine
then. I think what happened was one fish died, and was left to rot in the
tank, and it caused a chain reaction- as the ammonia levels rose, more fish
died leading to a further rise in ammonia, etc. I was gone a week so there
was plenty of time for this disaster to happen. BTW, my tank runs a Whisper
30, temperature at a constant 78 and has been set up for one year, with no
other fish deaths in the past three months.

Well, I did my 80% water change, I have the dying fish isolated in clean
water but I'm sure its too late, he is really bad off.

My question is, is there anything more I can do to help my remaining fish
recover? Like add aquarium salt? I am keeping the water as clean as
possible.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21652 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
How long were you gone? Did you have anyone coming in to feed your fish and
check on them every couple of days, if you were gone more than that. Do you
think you had a power outage or something. A single fish dying, while not
good, should not have catastrophic issues that you are describing. Your
biological filtration should have been able to handle the ammonia unless you
were gone for more than a few days. Did you use an automatic feeder or
feeding block of food? Those have both caused the types of issues you
experienced.

When you say the nitrites were fine, I'll assume that means 0.0ppm. Your
ammonia should be 0.0ppm as well.. unless something happened to your
biological filtration. What other test kits do you have? Ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH, KH and GH are the most readily available.. and of course
temperature.

Salt, starting off at 1 teaspoon per gallon (0.1%), would not hurt and could
help, including with any possible nitrite issues that might still happen
from the high ammonia levels. When fish get stressed, they become more
likely to have other illnesses so the salt would help with preventing
parasitic issues. If they do well with the 0.1% dose, the next day you
could raise it up to 0.2% and then 0.3% the third day.

Let us know when the last time you did filter maintenance and how you do it.
For further info on filter maintenance, here is my blog article...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html

Write back with more info and any questions you have.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sarah Terzo
Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 8:33 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacation disaster- high ammonia

I returned from vacation tonight to find four dead fish in various stages of
decay in my 29 gallon tank and one fish dying. All of the dead fish and the
dying one were platys The rest of my fish, the 4 neons, 5 tetras, the three
remaining platys (one adult and two fry) 1 adult molly and 2 molly fry, and
4 barbs, looked awful.

I immediately tested nitrites and ammonia- nitrites were fine but ammonia
was through the roof. I did a pwc the day I left and readings were fine
then. I think what happened was one fish died, and was left to rot in the
tank, and it caused a chain reaction- as the ammonia levels rose, more fish
died leading to a further rise in ammonia, etc. I was gone a week so there
was plenty of time for this disaster to happen. BTW, my tank runs a Whisper
30, temperature at a constant 78 and has been set up for one year, with no
other fish deaths in the past three months.

Well, I did my 80% water change, I have the dying fish isolated in clean
water but I'm sure its too late, he is really bad off.

My question is, is there anything more I can do to help my remaining fish
recover? Like add aquarium salt? I am keeping the water as clean as
possible.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21653 From: ANIL CHHIBBA Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
We actually donot know the real stage of the damage to the fish but it is also not advisable to transfer the fish to completely new water. This also gives a shock to the creature. Water has to be changed partially with a increase of oxygen supply with immediate stop of feeding. No medication should be given in this case as it will furthe rdamage the gills of the fish resulting breathing problem.

Only we are to watch the situation with a partial change of water on alternate day basis without any medication.

Anil chhibba

Sarah Terzo <sarah5775@...> wrote:
I returned from vacation tonight to find four dead fish in various stages of
decay in my 29 gallon tank and one fish dying. All of the dead fish and the
dying one were platys The rest of my fish, the 4 neons, 5 tetras, the three
remaining platys (one adult and two fry) 1 adult molly and 2 molly fry, and
4 barbs, looked awful.

I immediately tested nitrites and ammonia- nitrites were fine but ammonia
was through the roof. I did a pwc the day I left and readings were fine
then. I think what happened was one fish died, and was left to rot in the
tank, and it caused a chain reaction- as the ammonia levels rose, more fish
died leading to a further rise in ammonia, etc. I was gone a week so there
was plenty of time for this disaster to happen. BTW, my tank runs a Whisper
30, temperature at a constant 78 and has been set up for one year, with no
other fish deaths in the past three months.

Well, I did my 80% water change, I have the dying fish isolated in clean
water but I'm sure its too late, he is really bad off.

My question is, is there anything more I can do to help my remaining fish
recover? Like add aquarium salt? I am keeping the water as clean as
possible.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Here’s a new way to find what you're looking for - Yahoo! Answers

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21655 From: Nimish Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Actually, Ammonia is worse then Large water changes so if Ammonia is
off the roof then you really do need to do large water changes. 80%
water change is a good idea. As previously suggested, add some salt to
the water and add an airstone or a spray bar to allow plenty of oxygen
to go in the tank.

We dont know what extent of damage it is but it is a possibility that
the remaining fish may survive as long as ammonia is completely
removed.

I would keep doing water changes with water of similar temperature
then the tank untill the ammonia reads zero because if it is not zero
then you will start having Nitrite very soon.

Nim

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ANIL CHHIBBA <anilchhibba@...>
wrote:
>
> We actually donot know the real stage of the damage to the fish but
it is also not advisable to transfer the fish to completely new water.
This also gives a shock to the creature. Water has to be changed
partially with a increase of oxygen supply with immediate stop of
feeding. No medication should be given in this case as it will furthe
rdamage the gills of the fish resulting breathing problem.
>
> Only we are to watch the situation with a partial change of water
on alternate day basis without any medication.
>
> Anil chhibba
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21656 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
just curious, since i am in san diego and want to have mexiacan
sailfin mollies
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21657 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
The Salton Sea drainage ditches are supposed to have Mollies but I am unsure where they are originally from.

There is an aquarium society in San Diego that collected from that area last year.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kfsee0213@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 1:56 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?


just curious, since i am in san diego and want to have mexiacan
sailfin mollies



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21658 From: Alex See Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
so i can go there to catch some mollies?
Mike, are u in San Diego?

On 03 Apr 2007 02:04:18 -0700, Deenerz@... <Deenerz@...> wrote:
>
> The Salton Sea drainage ditches are supposed to have Mollies but I am
> unsure where they are originally from.
>
> There is an aquarium society in San Diego that collected from that area
> last year.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 1:56 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
>
> just curious, since i am in san diego and want to have mexiacan
> sailfin mollies
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21659 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Anyone has been SDTFS San Diego Tropical Fish Society's meeting??
as topic
http://www.sandiegotropicalfish.com/
San Diego Tropical Fish Society

Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21660 From: gorsford Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: How long does it take for mollies to be mature?
i have some fry and i can't wait til they get mature
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21661 From: Memrie Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: How long does it take for mollies to be mature?
My one molly fry has grown double in size in 2 weeks. Though I believe
growth depends on water conditions, foods and temp of tank. (If I am
wrong PLEASE correct me.)

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> i have some fry and i can't wait til they get mature
> Alex
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21662 From: Memrie Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone has been SDTFS San Diego Tropical Fish Society's meeting
Alex, the plant on the left side of the pic next to the reddish plant,
do you have a clue what it is? I need more info on this particular
plant. TY in adavance.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> as topic
> http://www.sandiegotropicalfish.com/
> San Diego Tropical Fish Society
>
> Alex
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21663 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Things are getting worse. After I wrote this, I noticed my molly up at the
top gasping for air and having trouble staying upright. She is worse this
morning, having trouble swimming. I'm not sure if this is damage from
before or if there is something worse going on. I had used a feeding block
over the three days I was gone but its weird, I've used them before and not
had a problem. I last changed the filter bag about two weeks ago. I didn't
take the filter apart and rinse in tank water that time, just changed the
bag. I think there is something else going on here than high ammonia
levels. Ammonia was .25, btw.
Sarah

On 4/3/07, Nimish <nimmat4@...> wrote:
>
> Actually, Ammonia is worse then Large water changes so if Ammonia is
> off the roof then you really do need to do large water changes. 80%
> water change is a good idea. As previously suggested, add some salt to
> the water and add an airstone or a spray bar to allow plenty of oxygen
> to go in the tank.
>
> We dont know what extent of damage it is but it is a possibility that
> the remaining fish may survive as long as ammonia is completely
> removed.
>
> I would keep doing water changes with water of similar temperature
> then the tank untill the ammonia reads zero because if it is not zero
> then you will start having Nitrite very soon.
>
> Nim
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Sarah, Certainly, the cause of this disaster would be most
beneficial to comprehend as this revelation might well prevent a
repetition of this in the future. However, your immediate concern
should be what steps can be taken from this point on to help remedy
the situation.

There have been a couple of posts, first incidentally suggesting and
then recommending the use of salt. If you have not done so already,
I would STRESS the use of the progressive use of salt (call
it "imperative"). High ammonia, such as what your fish have endured
is especially detrimental in an alkaline pH environment, being most
toxic to the fish in causing a condition what is known as "Brown
Blood." In this condition, the function of the red blood dells to
pick up oxygen is extremely compromised. Fortunately, salt will
negate this effect of ammonia on the fishes' circulatory system,
although just as it took time for this condition to develop, it will
also take some time to relieve it.

I don't need to guess that your water is alkaline; that is obvious
from the results the ammonia had on your fish. In water of an acid
pH, the ammonia would have been converted to relatively harmless
ammonium; not especially great, but then not debilitating either
(still would need to get rid of it). A word of warning in case a
high ammoniUM condition exists (which will only exist below pH 7.0)
in the future for you or another member here; Do NOT change out just
50% -- 60% of this acid water with alkaline water. The remaining
ammonium will convert to toxic ammonia once the pH rises above 7.0.

Unfortunately, during this recovery time, the fish may still expire
(as might the Mollie) but is the only course of action to be taken,
with the exception of lowering slightly, the temperature of the water
(only if it is high -- meaning 80o+). A very GRADUAL drop of 2o in
this case may make all the difference, allowing the water to absorb
all that much more badly needed oxygen. You will need to monitor the
water parameters closely and/or partially refresh the water column as
necessary to assure the purest water possible for the absorption of
oxygen, and of course increase aeration. Keep in mind, you will need
to replace any salt that you're removing at these times.

While the progressive salt treatment means adding a set amount of
salt per gallon per day, often up to 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon
per day, a slighly more conservative figure of 1 1/2 tsp. of salt per
gallon should be considered (since these fish are weakened), but
then, you need not administer at 24 hour incriments -- you can add
the salt more frequently at 18 hours to speed up the process (you
need to get salt in the water ASAP), so that after only 36 hours (a
day and a half) you'll have a bit more than a 0.3% salt solution.
Limiting to one teaspoon salt per gallon every 24 hours may not cut
it. Please note: one caveate before adding this salt quantity --
some species such as Cory's do not tolerate this salt level well,
while Mollies can tolerate up to 8 teaspoons salt per gallon. If in
doubt, keep your salt level confined to (but at least) 1 Tablespoon
per 5 gallons, or ask further; I have no idea what other fish you
have, although any Livebearers will do just fine. I'm sure others
here will also be able to offer support along these lines. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sarah Terzo" <sarah5775@...>
wrote:
>
> I returned from vacation tonight to find four dead fish in various
stages of
> decay in my 29 gallon tank and one fish dying. All of the dead fish
and the
> dying one were platys The rest of my fish, the 4 neons, 5 tetras,
the three
> remaining platys (one adult and two fry) 1 adult molly and 2 molly
fry, and
> 4 barbs, looked awful.
>
> I immediately tested nitrites and ammonia- nitrites were fine but
ammonia
> was through the roof. I did a pwc the day I left and readings were
fine
> then. I think what happened was one fish died, and was left to rot
in the
> tank, and it caused a chain reaction- as the ammonia levels rose,
more fish
> died leading to a further rise in ammonia, etc. I was gone a week
so there
> was plenty of time for this disaster to happen. BTW, my tank runs a
Whisper
> 30, temperature at a constant 78 and has been set up for one year,
with no
> other fish deaths in the past three months.
>
> Well, I did my 80% water change, I have the dying fish isolated in
clean
> water but I'm sure its too late, he is really bad off.
>
> My question is, is there anything more I can do to help my
remaining fish
> recover? Like add aquarium salt? I am keeping the water as clean as
> possible.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21665 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10 gallon aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish have died. Solutions?


DONNA COLMAN
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21666 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Salt water? How much live rock and sand do you have in your 10g? Did you let the tank cycle? What are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate readings? More than likely the tank is still cycling so the ammonia and or nitrites are still high (which will kill the fish). 1 week is usually not long enough for a tank to establish it's biological filter.


----- Original Message -----
From: DONNA COLMAN
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 12:05 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia


Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10 gallon aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish have died. Solutions?

DONNA COLMAN





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21667 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
We live in the city but have good sized yards. We are looking to put
a much bigger pond in the backyard this year.... our goal is about
1000 gallons with a bottom drain and we will stay with just the three
koi to see how much we can grow them out. The key with koi is
filtration, filtration, filtration. They are "dirty" fish, worse
than goldfish and their ponds need lots of maintenance. I'm lucky
because when the pond needs the most attention I have the time off.
I'm a teacher you see so I can spend lots of time during the summer
attending to these ponds. Certainly people that don't have the time
should stay away from koi, and maybe consider not having fish at all.

Kelly



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like a plan. I've never had Koi. They just get too big for
any pond
> I could put on a city/suburb sized lot.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2007 6:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Another newcomer - Hello All!
>
> Hi Lenny,
>
> Thank you for your reply.
>
> All the fish in my tropical tank are adults except for one, and I
did do
> much research before purchasing fish for this tank. I've had the
tank
> running now for almost a year and all levels are zero. I am very
committed
> to my maintenance and do 30% water changes once a week with
vacuuming.
>
> Yes it is a zebra loach, thanks for that!
>
> Yes you are so right about my comets and I'm very well aware that
they will
> quickly outgrow the tank. I actually rescued these comets from
the "feeder"
> tanks at my local pet store. It's our plan this summer to build
another
> bigger pond in the backyard (our current one is in the front yard),
in which
> we want to transfer the koi. And then it's my plan to put the
three comets
> in the front yard pond (200 gallons). Sound like a good plan to
you?
>
> Thanks for your advice!
> Kelly
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Kelly Anne,
> >
> > You might want to use http://fish.mongabay.com and use
> their "Search" box to
> > find profiles on all of your fish and learn more about their care
> and
> > preferences. The striped loach that looks like a zebra could be a
> Zebra
> > Loach or a YoYo Loach, off the top of my head. Check out the
> profiles on
> > both and see which one you have. Their profiles also list
Species
> > Compatibility and Tank Size recommendations so you can make sure
> your fish
> > stay compatible and are in the best sized tank. As fish mature,
> their
> > personalities and needs change and what might work today when they
> are
> > juveniles, may not work in a few months.
> >
> > As a mostly goldfish keeper, but also with a rescued/adopted
> seriously
> > overstocked 10G tropical tank, which I promptly separated into my
> 65G, and
> > extra 20G and 10G tanks that I had, I can tell you that your 20G
> tank won't
> > work very long for 3 comets... not even 1 comet would work for
very
> long in
> > a 20G tank. Maybe, 50G per comet would work in the long term if
> the tank is
> > a long tank. Here is a simple set of guidelines for stocking fish
> that I
> > and others came up with a couple of years ago... to replace the
> fish killing
> > antiquated 1" rule that is so common in the hobby.
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
> replace-1-per.
> > html
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> > Fish - http://GoldLenny.Blogspot.com
> >
> > FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
> files...
> > https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
> can be to
> > use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
> files and
> > folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> > Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Another newcomer - Hello All!
> >
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > I'm looking forward to learning some things from this group. I
> really enjoy
> > keeping all sorts of fish.
> >
> > I have one 35 gallon tropical tank which has the following fish in
> it:
> >
> > 3 dwarf gouramis (2 male, 1 female)
> > 6 black neon tetras
> > 1 rainbow shark
> > 2 burmese loachs
> > 1 striped loach (not sure of actual name - looks like a zebra)
> >
> > The dynamics of this tank are excellent. The loaches get along
> very well
> > and play around all the time. The rainbow shark enjoys the
> > company of the loaches as well. "Sharky" as we call him, is
full
> > grown at about 5 inches. He chases the gouramis if they get out
of
> line.
> > My burmese loaches are also full grown;however, the striped loach
> is a
> > recent addition and is only about 1 1/2 inches.
> >
> > I also have a 20 gallon coldwater tank with 3 comets.
> >
> > I also have a 200 gallon pond with three koi fish. They are about
> 5-
> > 6 inches long at this point. I started the pond last spring and
> the koi
> > were bought at 1 inch (they were small!). Being in Canada, my
pond
> is
> > slowly warming now and the koi are just coming out of hibernation
> but are
> > not being fed just yet.
> >
> > Tell me what kind of fish keeping you do, and what kind of fish
you
> have! I
> > would be very interested to know!
> >
> > Kelly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21668 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
No, Sorry.

I am from the San francisco Bay Area. I belong to two aquarium societies up here in the San Jose area.

I see you found the San Diego Tropical fish society web site.

Go through their archives and they have an article on their club collecting trip to the Salton Sea, last year I think. I think they list the tropical fish that are in the area. They will probably be a good source of the ins and outs of collecting fish there. Not sure if you need persmission to collect there, I am going to guess you will probably need a fishing license. I would hate to get caught with any fish and no license.

On their website they mention an upcoming talk with Fish and game(?) about restoring the Salton Sea. I would like to see that meeting but it is a bit far to drive.

( they also have Chuck Rambo coming to speak on Lake Tanganyika. Chuck is an Excellent speaker, I encourage anyone in the area to go see him talk.)

If you are able to go their and collect some time please let me know how it goes. A friend and I have been talking about making a trip down there to collect fish some time as well as maybe checking out the Colorado river in Baja. I guess they have some non endemic cichlids both there as well as the Salton Sea.

Good luck on your Molly hunting.

Mike Gale
www.SVAS.info
www.CichlidWorld.com

-----Original Message-----
From: kfsee0213@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 2:17 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?


so i can go there to catch some mollies?
Mike, are u in San Diego?

On 03 Apr 2007 02:04:18 -0700, Deenerz@... <Deenerz@...> wrote:
>
> The Salton Sea drainage ditches are supposed to have Mollies but I am
> unsure where they are originally from.
>
> There is an aquarium society in San Diego that collected from that area
> last year.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tue, 3 Apr 2007 1:56 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone bought fishes from mexico?
>
> just curious, since i am in san diego and want to have mexiacan
> sailfin mollies
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21669 From: Kurt Johnston Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: ACLC Anniversary
I want to invite all of our members and friends in the area to come and join
the members of the Aquarium Club of Lancaster County in celebrating our
35th Anniversary on Tuesday April 17th. In addition to our normal
outstanding speaker program, auction, raffle and great fish talk. We will
have a special celebration along with some cake. Please come and join us
and bring your friends. For more information, please contact me.

See you there!

Kurt Johnston
BAP Chairman
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21670 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/3/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Hi Donna,

You are now going through "Cycling With Fish", which means you need to be
doing daily water testing of your tank for ammonia, nitrites an do 25%+
PWC's (partial water changes) as needed to keep the ammonia and nitrites at
safe levels. Adding 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will keep the fish from
suffering nitrite poisoning. Some tap water treatments like Prime will help
with the ammonia problem... but doing PWC's will also keep them in check.

If you have a test kit, post your numbers for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH
and any other tests you have. Depending on your pH, higher levels of
ammonia are less toxic at lower pH levels.

Here is an online tutorial on the basics of fish keeping for beginners.
http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html Read through it and get back to us here
with any questions and more information.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of DONNA COLMAN
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 11:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia

Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10 gallon
aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish have
died. Solutions?


DONNA COLMAN






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21671 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Started by adding just fifteen teaspoons of salt to the 29 gallon tank- I
know I need to add over twice that amount but I wanted to check with you
first. I removed some of the java moss before adding it because I heard
salt can kill plants. I want to go ahead and do it to try and save my
mollies and remaining platys. I also have four gold barbs, five black
longfin tetras (I remember reading somewhere that they do ok with a little
salt), and 3 neons. I have 3 half-grown platys, adult platy and the one
adult molly (who seems slightly better today) and the two juvenile mollies,
and I really want to save them. I also have one otto and a snail I decided
to move the snail to be safe, but didn't think of it until after I had
already added the salt. Hopefully, he will be ok.. Temperature is 77, should
I keep it there, and should I go ahead and add the rest of the salt?

Sarah

On 4/3/07, Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Sarah, Certainly, the cause of this disaster would be most
> beneficial to comprehend as this revelation might well prevent a
> repetition of this in the future. However, your immediate concern
> should be what steps can be taken from this point on to help remedy
> the situation.
>
> There have been a couple of posts, first incidentally suggesting and
> then recommending the use of salt. If you have not done so already,
> I would STRESS the use of the progressive use of salt (call
> it "imperative"). High ammonia, such as what your fish have endured
> is especially detrimental in an alkaline pH environment, being most
> toxic to the fish in causing a condition what is known as "Brown
> Blood." In this condition, the function of the red blood dells to
> pick up oxygen is extremely compromised. Fortunately, salt will
> negate this effect of ammonia on the fishes' circulatory system,
> although just as it took time for this condition to develop, it will
> also take some time to relieve it.
>
> I don't need to guess that your water is alkaline; that is obvious
> from the results the ammonia had on your fish. In water of an acid
> pH, the ammonia would have been converted to relatively harmless
> ammonium; not especially great, but then not debilitating either
> (still would need to get rid of it). A word of warning in case a
> high ammoniUM condition exists (which will only exist below pH 7.0)
> in the future for you or another member here; Do NOT change out just
> 50% -- 60% of this acid water with alkaline water. The remaining
> ammonium will convert to toxic ammonia once the pH rises above 7.0.
>
> Unfortunately, during this recovery time, the fish may still expire
> (as might the Mollie) but is the only course of action to be taken,
> with the exception of lowering slightly, the temperature of the water
> (only if it is high -- meaning 80o+). A very GRADUAL drop of 2o in
> this case may make all the difference, allowing the water to absorb
> all that much more badly needed oxygen. You will need to monitor the
> water parameters closely and/or partially refresh the water column as
> necessary to assure the purest water possible for the absorption of
> oxygen, and of course increase aeration. Keep in mind, you will need
> to replace any salt that you're removing at these times.
>
> While the progressive salt treatment means adding a set amount of
> salt per gallon per day, often up to 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon
> per day, a slighly more conservative figure of 1 1/2 tsp. of salt per
> gallon should be considered (since these fish are weakened), but
> then, you need not administer at 24 hour incriments -- you can add
> the salt more frequently at 18 hours to speed up the process (you
> need to get salt in the water ASAP), so that after only 36 hours (a
> day and a half) you'll have a bit more than a 0.3% salt solution.
> Limiting to one teaspoon salt per gallon every 24 hours may not cut
> it. Please note: one caveate before adding this salt quantity --
> some species such as Cory's do not tolerate this salt level well,
> while Mollies can tolerate up to 8 teaspoons salt per gallon. If in
> doubt, keep your salt level confined to (but at least) 1 Tablespoon
> per 5 gallons, or ask further; I have no idea what other fish you
> have, although any Livebearers will do just fine. I'm sure others
> here will also be able to offer support along these lines. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sarah
> Terzo" <sarah5775@...>
>
> wrote:
> >
> >
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21672 From: Sarah Terzo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Oh wait, I just thought of something. I have over a hundred little pest
snails in there that hijacked in on my plants. Will they die? I don't mind
losing them, but if they all die won't they cause an ammonia spike all over
again?
Sarah

On 4/4/07, Sarah Terzo <sarah5775@...> wrote:
>
> Started by adding just fifteen teaspoons of salt to the 29 gallon tank- I
> know I need to add over twice that amount but I wanted to check with you
> first. I removed some of the java moss before adding it because I heard
> salt can kill plants. I want to go ahead and do it to try and save my
> mollies and remaining platys. I also have four gold barbs, five black
> longfin tetras (I remember reading somewhere that they do ok with a little
> salt), and 3 neons. I have 3 half-grown platys, adult platy and the one
> adult molly (who seems slightly better today) and the two juvenile mollies,
> and I really want to save them. I also have one otto and a snail I decided
> to move the snail to be safe, but didn't think of it until after I had
> already added the salt. Hopefully, he will be ok.. Temperature is 77, should
> I keep it there, and should I go ahead and add the rest of the salt?
>
> Sarah
>
> On 4/3/07, Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
> >
> > Sarah, Certainly, the cause of this disaster would be most
> > beneficial to comprehend as this revelation might well prevent a
> > repetition of this in the future. However, your immediate concern
> > should be what steps can be taken from this point on to help remedy
> > the situation.
> >
> > There have been a couple of posts, first incidentally suggesting and
> > then recommending the use of salt. If you have not done so already,
> > I would STRESS the use of the progressive use of salt (call
> > it "imperative"). High ammonia, such as what your fish have endured
> > is especially detrimental in an alkaline pH environment, being most
> > toxic to the fish in causing a condition what is known as "Brown
> > Blood." In this condition, the function of the red blood dells to
> > pick up oxygen is extremely compromised. Fortunately, salt will
> > negate this effect of ammonia on the fishes' circulatory system,
> > although just as it took time for this condition to develop, it will
> > also take some time to relieve it.
> >
> > I don't need to guess that your water is alkaline; that is obvious
> > from the results the ammonia had on your fish. In water of an acid
> > pH, the ammonia would have been converted to relatively harmless
> > ammonium; not especially great, but then not debilitating either
> > (still would need to get rid of it). A word of warning in case a
> > high ammoniUM condition exists (which will only exist below pH 7.0)
> > in the future for you or another member here; Do NOT change out just
> > 50% -- 60% of this acid water with alkaline water. The remaining
> > ammonium will convert to toxic ammonia once the pH rises above 7.0.
> >
> > Unfortunately, during this recovery time, the fish may still expire
> > (as might the Mollie) but is the only course of action to be taken,
> > with the exception of lowering slightly, the temperature of the water
> > (only if it is high -- meaning 80o+). A very GRADUAL drop of 2o in
> > this case may make all the difference, allowing the water to absorb
> > all that much more badly needed oxygen. You will need to monitor the
> > water parameters closely and/or partially refresh the water column as
> > necessary to assure the purest water possible for the absorption of
> > oxygen, and of course increase aeration. Keep in mind, you will need
> > to replace any salt that you're removing at these times.
> >
> > While the progressive salt treatment means adding a set amount of
> > salt per gallon per day, often up to 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon
> > per day, a slighly more conservative figure of 1 1/2 tsp. of salt per
> > gallon should be considered (since these fish are weakened), but
> > then, you need not administer at 24 hour incriments -- you can add
> > the salt more frequently at 18 hours to speed up the process (you
> > need to get salt in the water ASAP), so that after only 36 hours (a
> > day and a half) you'll have a bit more than a 0.3% salt solution.
> > Limiting to one teaspoon salt per gallon every 24 hours may not cut
> > it. Please note: one caveate before adding this salt quantity --
> > some species such as Cory's do not tolerate this salt level well,
> > while Mollies can tolerate up to 8 teaspoons salt per gallon. If in
> > doubt, keep your salt level confined to (but at least) 1 Tablespoon
> > per 5 gallons, or ask further; I have no idea what other fish you
> > have, although any Livebearers will do just fine. I'm sure others
> > here will also be able to offer support along these lines. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> > "Sarah Terzo" <sarah5775@...>
> >
> > wrote:
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21673 From: Paul Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Need advice on a new tank mate for an oscar tank.
I need advice on a new tank mate for an Oscar tank.
I have a 75 gallon freshwater that is currently stocked with an Albino
Tiger Oscar (about 8"), Common Pleco (about 10"), and a Clown Knife
(about 10").
Currently feeding floating pellets daily and feeders(shrimp or comets)
weekly.

Anyone with similar situation have any luck with adding any new fish
to this kind of setup?

I will be adding two 3" long raphael catfish soon. But they never
come out. So they will be fine I think.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21674 From: Don Young Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Question on New Fry
I got home today and found two new fry in my African Cichlid tank. In
the tank I have 1 Blue Peacock ( Aulonocara hansbaenschi) and 1 Blue
Mbuna (Labeotropheus fuelleborni). I think the Blue Mbuna is the
female. She was acting wierd the past few days. Would not eat and
hid all the time. I did not know she was a female or that they mated.
Now how many fry should there be? Have they eaten them? I only have
two left. I tried to catch them and place them in a fry box in the
tank but could not get them. Will Cichlids eat their young? The LFS
says they will be fine and not to worry. What do i feed them? Any
help would be great.

Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21675 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
IS 2.5 TOO MUCH AMMONIA IN A TEN GALLON TANK.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Donna,
>
> You are now going through "Cycling With Fish", which means you need
to be
> doing daily water testing of your tank for ammonia, nitrites an do
25%+
> PWC's (partial water changes) as needed to keep the ammonia and
nitrites at
> safe levels. Adding 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will keep the
fish from
> suffering nitrite poisoning. Some tap water treatments like Prime
will help
> with the ammonia problem... but doing PWC's will also keep them in
check.
>
> If you have a test kit, post your numbers for ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH
> and any other tests you have. Depending on your pH, higher levels
of
> ammonia are less toxic at lower pH levels.
>
> Here is an online tutorial on the basics of fish keeping for
beginners.
> http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html Read through it and get back to
us here
> with any questions and more information.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz Site - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of DONNA COLMAN
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
>
> Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10
gallon
> aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish
have
> died. Solutions?
>
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21676 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Need advice on a new tank mate for an oscar tank.
Since you are asking, I don't think you should add any more fish and should
probably look for a bigger tank. Adult Oscars should reach 14" and be in a
100G+ tank, http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Astronotus_ocellatus.html.
Adult Pleco's, presuming yours is a common pleco, reach 18"+ and should be
in a 75G+ tank. Clown Knifefish can grow to 40" in the wild and should be
in a 100G+ tank also. http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Chitala_ornata.html.


It's cool to like BIG fish but you can't squeeze them in too small of a
tank. Eventually darwinism is going to take over with survival of the
fittest and you will have dead or injured fish on your hands.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need advice on a new tank mate for an oscar tank.

I need advice on a new tank mate for an Oscar tank.
I have a 75 gallon freshwater that is currently stocked with an Albino Tiger
Oscar (about 8"), Common Pleco (about 10"), and a Clown Knife (about 10").
Currently feeding floating pellets daily and feeders(shrimp or comets)
weekly.

Anyone with similar situation have any luck with adding any new fish to this
kind of setup?

I will be adding two 3" long raphael catfish soon. But they never come out.
So they will be fine I think.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21677 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Ammonia at 2.5ppm is too much in any size tank. The ppm means parts per
million so it's averaged throughout the tank. On a properly "cycled" tank,
you will have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrites but while you are stuck with
"Cycling With Fish" right now, you need to do lots of testing and PWC's to
keep your water safe enough for your fish. If your pH is around 7, then the
2.5ppm isn't as toxic. Please try to get all of the test results. Some
local fish stores and fish dept's will check your water for free.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high
ammonia)

IS 2.5 TOO MUCH AMMONIA IN A TEN GALLON TANK.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Donna,
>
> You are now going through "Cycling With Fish", which means you need
to be
> doing daily water testing of your tank for ammonia, nitrites an do
25%+
> PWC's (partial water changes) as needed to keep the ammonia and
nitrites at
> safe levels. Adding 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will keep the
fish from
> suffering nitrite poisoning. Some tap water treatments like Prime
will help
> with the ammonia problem... but doing PWC's will also keep them in
check.
>
> If you have a test kit, post your numbers for ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH
> and any other tests you have. Depending on your pH, higher levels
of
> ammonia are less toxic at lower pH levels.
>
> Here is an online tutorial on the basics of fish keeping for
beginners.
> http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html Read through it and get back to
us here
> with any questions and more information.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com Biz Site -
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of DONNA COLMAN
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 11:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
>
> Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10
gallon
> aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish
have
> died. Solutions?
>
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21678 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Sorry it was .25...My ph is 7.6 with no nitrite and nitrate. Does
sound good. I have mollys, gullpies and platys in there


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Ammonia at 2.5ppm is too much in any size tank. The ppm means
parts per
> million so it's averaged throughout the tank. On a
properly "cycled" tank,
> you will have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrites but while you are
stuck with
> "Cycling With Fish" right now, you need to do lots of testing and
PWC's to
> keep your water safe enough for your fish. If your pH is around 7,
then the
> 2.5ppm isn't as toxic. Please try to get all of the test results.
Some
> local fish stores and fish dept's will check your water for free.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 7:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation
disaster- high
> ammonia)
>
> IS 2.5 TOO MUCH AMMONIA IN A TEN GALLON TANK.
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Donna,
> >
> > You are now going through "Cycling With Fish", which means you
need
> to be
> > doing daily water testing of your tank for ammonia, nitrites an do
> 25%+
> > PWC's (partial water changes) as needed to keep the ammonia and
> nitrites at
> > safe levels. Adding 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will keep the
> fish from
> > suffering nitrite poisoning. Some tap water treatments like Prime
> will help
> > with the ammonia problem... but doing PWC's will also keep them in
> check.
> >
> > If you have a test kit, post your numbers for ammonia, nitrite,
> nitrate, pH
> > and any other tests you have. Depending on your pH, higher levels
> of
> > ammonia are less toxic at lower pH levels.
> >
> > Here is an online tutorial on the basics of fish keeping for
> beginners.
> > http://faq.thekrib.com/begin.html Read through it and get back to
> us here
> > with any questions and more information.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com Biz Site -
> > http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> >
> > FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
> files...
> > https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
> can be to
> > use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
> files and
> > folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of DONNA COLMAN
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 11:57 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
> >
> > Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10
> gallon
> > aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2 fish
> have
> > died. Solutions?
> >
> >
> > DONNA COLMAN
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21679 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
Its a fresh water 10 gallon tank. The ph is 7.5...No nitrates or
nitrites but the ammonia is .25. Is that bad?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Salt water? How much live rock and sand do you have in your 10g?
Did you let the tank cycle? What are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate
readings? More than likely the tank is still cycling so the ammonia
and or nitrites are still high (which will kill the fish). 1 week is
usually not long enough for a tank to establish it's biological
filter.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: DONNA COLMAN
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 12:05 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacation disaster- high ammonia
>
>
> Is this salt water fish your talking about. I just bought a 10
gallon aquarium, had it for a week for the water to settle and now 2
fish have died. Solutions?
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21680 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question on New Fry
Females can hold from 10 to 60 fry depending on species. Never heard of
mbuna/peacock breeding, but I've been doing this less than 2 years. Yes,
these cichlids eat their young. It could be that a couple escaped and the
Mom continues to hold the rest, is she eating now? I have about 1 survivor
fry out of every batch released in the tank, they live on what they can
scavenge. I tried feeding one directly by dropping food via tube in the
tiny crack in the rocks where it was hiding, but it attracted all the bigger
fish.never did THAT again. Best of luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Don Young
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 8:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Question on New Fry



I got home today and found two new fry in my African Cichlid tank. In
the tank I have 1 Blue Peacock ( Aulonocara hansbaenschi) and 1 Blue
Mbuna (Labeotropheus fuelleborni). I think the Blue Mbuna is the
female. She was acting wierd the past few days. Would not eat and
hid all the time. I did not know she was a female or that they mated.
Now how many fry should there be? Have they eaten them? I only have
two left. I tried to catch them and place them in a fry box in the
tank but could not get them. Will Cichlids eat their young? The LFS
says they will be fine and not to worry. What do i feed them? Any
help would be great.

Don





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21681 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question on New Fry
Hi Don,

Yup, Cichlids eat their young ..... what I do is take a tuperware bowl (retangle shape) and cut a 2" X 2" hole in the sides and bottom.... I cover the holes with fish net.. I put all the fry in my little home made tank while inside the main tank... if you have a bunch of bigger fish in the main tank try to maybe clip the fry tank to the side of the main tank. Also if possible try to use a tuperware bowl that is not clear.... otherwise your bigger fish will have a feast. I use spray krill (basically powered Krill) to feed my fry. I also run an airline in the fry tank .... have a valve on the airline so you dont bounce them out of the tank :)

Hope that helps
Fred

Don Young <brakemanpr@...> wrote:
I got home today and found two new fry in my African Cichlid tank. In
the tank I have 1 Blue Peacock ( Aulonocara hansbaenschi) and 1 Blue
Mbuna (Labeotropheus fuelleborni). I think the Blue Mbuna is the
female. She was acting wierd the past few days. Would not eat and
hid all the time. I did not know she was a female or that they mated.
Now how many fry should there be? Have they eaten them? I only have
two left. I tried to catch them and place them in a fry box in the
tank but could not get them. Will Cichlids eat their young? The LFS
says they will be fine and not to worry. What do i feed them? Any
help would be great.

Don






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21682 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Ammonia should be 0. Nitrite should be 0. Aim for less than 100 for your
nitrate. Sounds like your tank is just beginning to cycle. With the pH
where it is, the ammonia is more toxic to your fish. Since you are
cycling with your fish, I suggest you use a water conditioner such as
Ultimate from Hikari. You will need to use a test kit that uses
salicylate reagents rather than the more common Nesslar's as this water
conditioner will give you the wrong readings when using a Nesslar's
reagent to test for ammonia. (There are also a few other tests that can
be thrown off by this product, but they are not commonly used.)

The Ultimate will change the ammonia into a less toxic form, so the
bacteria you need for a biological cycle will still be able to grow and
multiply. This conditioner will also help the fish create a healthy
slime coat, and break the chloramine bond, removing the chlorine from
your water safely.

If you need a test kit that uses the salicylate reagents, check out the
one at this link (which I am ordering for myself later tonight):
http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?BP=1&RCAT=300. It is a very good
test kit, and a bit hard to find. However, I think that nearly everyone
who tries it likes it.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21683 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
WHAT ABOUT GETTING PRIME OR BIOZIME?




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ammonia should be 0. Nitrite should be 0. Aim for less than 100 for
your
> nitrate. Sounds like your tank is just beginning to cycle. With
the pH
> where it is, the ammonia is more toxic to your fish. Since you are
> cycling with your fish, I suggest you use a water conditioner such
as
> Ultimate from Hikari. You will need to use a test kit that uses
> salicylate reagents rather than the more common Nesslar's as this
water
> conditioner will give you the wrong readings when using a Nesslar's
> reagent to test for ammonia. (There are also a few other tests that
can
> be thrown off by this product, but they are not commonly used.)
>
> The Ultimate will change the ammonia into a less toxic form, so the
> bacteria you need for a biological cycle will still be able to grow
and
> multiply. This conditioner will also help the fish create a healthy
> slime coat, and break the chloramine bond, removing the chlorine
from
> your water safely.
>
> If you need a test kit that uses the salicylate reagents, check out
the
> one at this link (which I am ordering for myself later tonight):
> http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?BP=1&RCAT=300. It is a very
good
> test kit, and a bit hard to find. However, I think that nearly
everyone
> who tries it likes it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21684 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Hi Donna,

0.25ppm of ammonia is not too high at 7.6 pH but at 8.0 pH it would be.
Here's a chart showing the various toxicity levels of ammonia at different
pH's and different temps.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

It would have been better to fishless cycle, but since you are cycling with
fish, you have to keep the ammonia between .25 and .50 by doing frequent
PWC's. You can also use a water conditioner called Prime which helps make
the ammonia less toxic. Since you have livebearers, you should also be
using salt in your tank and the salt will also help with the eventual
nitrite surge and spike you will see soon. Having a 0.1% salinity level (1
teaspoon of salt per gallon) will protect your fish from up to 60ppm of
nitrites. It's not good to let them get anywhere near that high, not over
0.5ppm, but the protection is there to keep it from being toxic.

Here is my A to Z blog page on fish keeping for beginners.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml
At the top of the page, you will see info on cycling with fish. There are
also two different online tutorials about fish keeping for beginners. Take
one or both of them and you will be a long way on not only understanding
things better for yourself but even being able to help other people.

Also read my filter maintenance page so you do not fall into the trap of
changing your filters causing your tank to go back through the cycling phase
all over again.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html

Feel free to browse around the rest of my blog but the above two pages will
help you get started off on the right track.... and asking lots of questions
in the group.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: DONNA COLMAN [mailto:dctn_2005@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 8:17 PM
To: nhsnola@...
Subject: from aquartic group------Donna c

Is .25 too high for a ten gallon that Iv just had for 2 weeks...Nitrates and
nitrites are 0..The ph is 7.6.....I have mollys, platys and guppies in
there.



DONNA COLMAN

________________________________

TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks"
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49979/*http://tv.yahoo.com/> on Yahoo! TV.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21685 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/4/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Prime will neutralize ammonia also. I'm not sure what Biozime is. If it is
supposed to be a bacteria in a bottle type product, most of them don't work
as advertised... except Bio-Spira seems to work as long as it stayed
refrigerated during shipping and storage at the store.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 10:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high
ammonia)

WHAT ABOUT GETTING PRIME OR BIOZIME?




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ammonia should be 0. Nitrite should be 0. Aim for less than 100 for
your
> nitrate. Sounds like your tank is just beginning to cycle. With
the pH
> where it is, the ammonia is more toxic to your fish. Since you are
> cycling with your fish, I suggest you use a water conditioner such
as
> Ultimate from Hikari. You will need to use a test kit that uses
> salicylate reagents rather than the more common Nesslar's as this
water
> conditioner will give you the wrong readings when using a Nesslar's
> reagent to test for ammonia. (There are also a few other tests that
can
> be thrown off by this product, but they are not commonly used.)
>
> The Ultimate will change the ammonia into a less toxic form, so the
> bacteria you need for a biological cycle will still be able to grow
and
> multiply. This conditioner will also help the fish create a healthy
> slime coat, and break the chloramine bond, removing the chlorine
from
> your water safely.
>
> If you need a test kit that uses the salicylate reagents, check out
the
> one at this link (which I am ordering for myself later tonight):
> http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?BP=1&RCAT=300. It is a very
good
> test kit, and a bit hard to find. However, I think that nearly
everyone
> who tries it likes it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21686 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
I know the product I recommended works as advertised. I do not know about those you mentioned.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 11:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)

WHAT ABOUT GETTING PRIME OR BIOZIME?




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ammonia should be 0. Nitrite should be 0. Aim for less than 100 for
your
> nitrate. Sounds like your tank is just beginning to cycle. With
the pH
> where it is, the ammonia is more toxic to your fish. Since you are
> cycling with your fish, I suggest you use a water conditioner such
as
> Ultimate from Hikari. You will need to use a test kit that uses
> salicylate reagents rather than the more common Nesslar's as this
water
> conditioner will give you the wrong readings when using a Nesslar's
> reagent to test for ammonia. (There are also a few other tests that
can
> be thrown off by this product, but they are not commonly used.)
>
> The Ultimate will change the ammonia into a less toxic form, so the
> bacteria you need for a biological cycle will still be able to grow
and
> multiply. This conditioner will also help the fish create a healthy
> slime coat, and break the chloramine bond, removing the chlorine
from
> your water safely.
>
> If you need a test kit that uses the salicylate reagents, check out
the
> one at this link (which I am ordering for myself later tonight):
> http://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?BP=1&RCAT=300. It is a very
good
> test kit, and a bit hard to find. However, I think that nearly
everyone
> who tries it likes it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21687 From: Memrie Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: New fish
I teaded in 3 very aggressive males or 2 females and one male. The 3
are in a quarintene tank but seem to very stressed. Fins are clamped
and they are just not acting right. I have added the salt, (there are
platies) and temp is 78. This is a cycled tank with levels being 0
and 0. I forget what the nitrate was but is was not high. Anyway,
what can I do to help them calm down?

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21688 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
It may help if we knew the kind of fish you are talking about. As a general rule, you may wish to cover the tank with something to limit the amount of light let in, with a few peepholes for occasional checks. This may help them relax a bit. You know what your water parameters are, what kind of water did they come from. It may be a bit of a shock to them if the parameters are too different.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New fish

I teaded in 3 very aggressive males or 2 females and one male. The 3
are in a quarintene tank but seem to very stressed. Fins are clamped
and they are just not acting right. I have added the salt, (there are
platies) and temp is 78. This is a cycled tank with levels being 0
and 0. I forget what the nitrate was but is was not high. Anyway,
what can I do to help them calm down?

Mem




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21689 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
Do you have any floating plants or broad leaf plants, either real or silk,
that you can add to the tank? I find that fish like to be able to hide a
little bit or at least have something to hide behind. It makes them feel
more secure (less stressed).

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21690 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
-It said that your blog....http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-
of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h is not found.





-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Donna,
>
> 0.25ppm of ammonia is not too high at 7.6 pH but at 8.0 pH it would
be.
> Here's a chart showing the various toxicity levels of ammonia at
different pH's and different temps.

http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> ...
>
> Here is my A to Z blog page on fish keeping for beginners.
>
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
training.html
...
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
important.
> html
>
> Feel free to browse around the rest of my blog but the above two
pages will
> help you get started off on the right track.... and asking lots of
questions
> in the group.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21691 From: Aaron Date: 4/5/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
the link was broken ~ (missing the "tml" of the ".html" at the end)


http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
training.html



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -It said that your blog....http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-
z-
> of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h is not found.
>
>
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Donna,
> >
> > Here is my A to Z blog page on fish keeping for beginners.
> >
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
> training.html
> ...
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
> important.
> > html
> >
> > Feel free to browse around the rest of my blog but the above two
> pages will
> > help you get started off on the right track.... and asking lots of
> questions
> > in the group.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21692 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Oh Yeah, more work! I got mine in the mail yesterday.
My son is so excited to try it. He's only three so
he doesn't know what it is, but he's excited. He is
hooked on fish. He would rather go to petsmart than
toyrus. That's my boy! Wish us luck...

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> I got my daughter this kit a couple years ago, they are messy.
> Fascinating to watch, but the tank gets really dirty really fast.
> You have to do a cleaning at least once a day if not more. If you
> lapse just one day, it stinks.
>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
>> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 1:19 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] aquasaurus
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone has tried the habitat kits for the
> aquasaurus. I
>> saw some om ebay while looking for fish supplies and thought I
> might get one
>> for the boys. They are really interesting creatures although their
> life span
>> is really short. Anyone have any experience with them?
>>
>> Traci
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21693 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> It may help if we knew the kind of fish you are talking about.
Sorry, platies. Red moon and a yellow two bar.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2007 11:21 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New fish
>
> I teaded in 3 very aggressive males or 2 females and one male. The
3
> are in a quarintene tank but seem to very stressed. Fins are
clamped
> and they are just not acting right. I have added the salt, (there
are
> platies) and temp is 78. This is a cycled tank with levels being
0
> and 0. I forget what the nitrate was but is was not high. Anyway,
> what can I do to help them calm down?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21694 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: New fish
I have plants but they are in my main tank not my quartine tank. It is
a bare bottom tank. I will have to get back on the paramaters of the
lfs water.

mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Do you have any floating plants or broad leaf plants, either real or
silk,
> that you can add to the tank? I find that fish like to be able to
hide a
> little bit or at least have something to hide behind. It makes them
feel
> more secure (less stressed).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21695 From: Cina Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
Just be careful he doesn't stick his little fingers in the water.
They won't hurt him, but as smelly as their water can get if not
cleaned daily, I don't want to know how much bacteria is in there.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21696 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
What was the question to this answer???



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Cina" <wilderness_girl_22@...>
wrote:
>
> Just be careful he doesn't stick his little fingers in the water.
> They won't hurt him, but as smelly as their water can get if not
> cleaned daily, I don't want to know how much bacteria is in there.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21697 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: aquasaurus
I had just said that my son is excited about the
aquasaur and she was warning me to not let him
get his fingers in the container with them because
they're so messy.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> What was the question to this answer???
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Cina" <wilderness_girl_22@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Just be careful he doesn't stick his little fingers in the water.
>> They won't hurt him, but as smelly as their water can get if not
>> cleaned daily, I don't want to know how much bacteria is in there.
>>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21698 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)
Thank you I love your blog. How did get all that information on there?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
>
> the link was broken ~ (missing the "tml" of the ".html" at the end)
>
>
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
> training.html
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > -It said that your
blog....http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-
> z-
> > of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h is not found.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Donna,
> > >
> > > Here is my A to Z blog page on fish keeping for beginners.
> > >
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
> > training.html
> > ...
> > > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-
very-
> > important.
> > > html
> > >
> > > Feel free to browse around the rest of my blog but the above two
> > pages will
> > > help you get started off on the right track.... and asking lots
of
> > questions
> > > in the group.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> > > http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21699 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Sorry its still not found


DONNA COLMAN



----- Original Message ----
From: Aaron <massagetherapist@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2007 10:31:54 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high ammonia)


the link was broken ~ (missing the "tml" of the ".html" at the end)

http://goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-z-of- fish-keeping- how-to-
training.html

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@. ..>
wrote:
>
> -It said that your blog....http: //goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-
z-
> of-fish-keeping- how-to-training. h is not found.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21700 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C - New Tank
Years of fish keeping and helping people in various forums and searching for
sites for my own use. It was easier to type out the most common things on
my blog and direct them to a posting there, than it was to re-type things
over and over and over in forums. I'm constantly updating my blogs to try
and weed out out-dated info and include updated things... as they change.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21701 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: trying to change my whole name from coming up
How do I change it to where my whole name doesnt come up when I post?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21702 From: Memrie Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
I dont' see your whole name. What do you mean?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> How do I change it to where my whole name doesnt come up when I post?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21703 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/6/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
I wonder why it came up on message #21699?



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> I dont' see your whole name. What do you mean?
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > How do I change it to where my whole name doesnt come up when I
post?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21704 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: molting
Hi Everyone,

My two redclaws are both doing well. The male (I think)
just finished molting. He grabbed a pea and took it
under the bridge when I fed them last night so I assume
he is not too stressed by it. He actually came out and
got it as we were standing by. He's usually much more
catious than that. I have left the empty shell in the
tank for him to eat but he isn't showing any interest
in it. So they are doing well with the betta and growing
bigger. Yeah! I was afraid I might lose one. Guess I did
a much better job cycling this tank then I did with the
other tank. Thanks Lenny! Ok, back to work now. I hope
everyone has an awesome Easter weekend.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21705 From: Memrie Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: Re: trying to change my whole name from coming up
No clue. I guess that is a puter for ya.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> I wonder why it came up on message #21699?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@> wrote:
> >
> > I dont' see your whole name. What do you mean?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > How do I change it to where my whole name doesnt come up when I
> post?
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21706 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: moderators
Are yall looking for a new moderator for this group cause I would like
to be one.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21707 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Donna,

Try going to the main blog page, http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and then on
the right side, there are drop down menus for each month with the blog
titles. I think the ones you will be most interested in are in February's
section... but you are welcome to browse through all of them. It's free.
LOL

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21708 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: A betta in same tank as crays???
Your crays don't try to have your betta for dinner?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> My two redclaws are both doing well. The male (I think)
> just finished molting. He grabbed a pea and took it
> under the bridge when I fed them last night so I assume
> he is not too stressed by it. He actually came out and
> got it as we were standing by. He's usually much more
> catious than that. I have left the empty shell in the
> tank for him to eat but he isn't showing any interest
> in it. So they are doing well with the betta and growing
> bigger. Yeah! I was afraid I might lose one. Guess I did
> a much better job cycling this tank then I did with the
> other tank. Thanks Lenny! Ok, back to work now. I hope
> everyone has an awesome Easter weekend.
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21709 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/7/2007
Subject: how do you get members for a new group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21710 From: Aaron Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: New Group Colors and Picture
Something fishy about those eggs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21711 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: New Group Colors and Picture
Nice work! Very cheerful. Happy Easter, everyone!


Ken


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
> Something fishy about those eggs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21712 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C
Looks like there are spaces in the URL where there shouldn't be any.

On 06 Apr 2007 18:06:07 -0700, DONNA COLMAN <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry its still not found
>
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Aaron <massagetherapist@... <massagetherapist%40mail.com>>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2007 10:31:54 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high
> ammonia)
>
> the link was broken ~ (missing the "tml" of the ".html" at the end)
>
> http://goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-z-of- fish-keeping- how-to-
> training.html
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@. ..>
> wrote:
> >
> > -It said that your blog....http: //goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-
> z-
> > of-fish-keeping- how-to-training. h is not found.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21713 From: harry perry Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C/It works
Copy and paste the first line, remove 5 spaces, copy and paste second line next to the first, no extra spaces, hit go.

Harry

Curtis Taylor <aquatichobby@...> wrote: Looks like there are spaces in the URL where there shouldn't be any.

On 06 Apr 2007 18:06:07 -0700, DONNA COLMAN <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry its still not found
>
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Aaron <massagetherapist@... <massagetherapist%40mail.com>>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2007 10:31:54 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DONNA C - New Tank (was Vacation disaster- high
> ammonia)
>
> the link was broken ~ (missing the "tml" of the ".html" at the end)
>
> http://goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-z-of- fish-keeping- how-to-
> training.html
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@. ..>
> wrote:
> >
> > -It said that your blog....http: //goldlenny. blogspot. com/2007/ 02/to-
> z-
> > of-fish-keeping- how-to-training. h is not found.
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21714 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: DONNA C/It works
Thank you I got the link to come up. Hope everybody had a good Easter.


DONNA COLMAN






---------------------------------
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21715 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: New Group Colors and Picture
Aarron are you a message therapist. I saw that your email has that.


DONNA COLMAN






---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21716 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Well good for you! You must have a calming effect on them. My crayfish ate
his tank mate...AFTER HE molted. Usually it's the molted one that gets
eaten. Be careful! I certainly wouldn't trust one of those guys with a fish
or another crayfish.
Emily

On 07 Apr 2007 16:45:11 -0700, Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...> wrote:
>
> Your crays don't try to have your betta for dinner?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Traci
> Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > My two redclaws are both doing well. The male (I think)
> > just finished molting. He grabbed a pea and took it
> > under the bridge when I fed them last night so I assume
> > he is not too stressed by it. He actually came out and
> > got it as we were standing by. He's usually much more
> > catious than that. I have left the empty shell in the
> > tank for him to eat but he isn't showing any interest
> > in it. So they are doing well with the betta and growing
> > bigger. Yeah! I was afraid I might lose one. Guess I did
> > a much better job cycling this tank then I did with the
> > other tank. Thanks Lenny! Ok, back to work now. I hope
> > everyone has an awesome Easter weekend.
> >
> > Traci
> >
> >
> > Traci Swatek-Rice
> > DMOS5 manufacturing
> > Texas Instruments
> > <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21717 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/8/2007
Subject: the new picture
I love the new picture. Happy Easter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21718 From: Kevin Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Anyone Near NYC have Shrimp for sale?
Hey guys!
Does anyone near the NYC area have a dozen or so each Amano shrimp and
Cherry shrimp for sale? They're SOOO expensive at the stores around
here. Since they're so easy to breed- I'm thinking someone online may
give me a slightly better price. You can e-mail me directly.
Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21719 From: Snerticus, but you can call me Snert Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
I suspect that sooner or later the crays will notice there's a
potential meal in the tank. Maybe they are too small yet to realize
it.

I have seen numerous species of dwarf crays that I eventually want to
get. These, such as Cambarellus shufeldtii, are friendly to fish and
many don't uproot plants. They also come in the blue morphs, orange
morphs, and white morphs as well. Some species only get the size of
Amano Shrimp, or smaller.

If I were to get an only-crayfish tank, I'd probably go with the red
claws or Orconectes durelli (I don't know the common name for this
cray). Another pretty species is Cambarus ludovicianus - for sale on
aquabid now at http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?
fwinverts&1176523798 - if you're interested in what they look like,
cut and paste to see some pics.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> Your crays don't try to have your betta for dinner?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Everyone,
> >
> > My two redclaws are both doing well. The male (I think)
> > just finished molting. He grabbed a pea and took it
> > under the bridge when I fed them last night so I assume
> > he is not too stressed by it. He actually came out and
> > got it as we were standing by. He's usually much more
> > catious than that. I have left the empty shell in the
> > tank for him to eat but he isn't showing any interest
> > in it. So they are doing well with the betta and growing
> > bigger. Yeah! I was afraid I might lose one. Guess I did
> > a much better job cycling this tank then I did with the
> > other tank. Thanks Lenny! Ok, back to work now. I hope
> > everyone has an awesome Easter weekend.
> >
> > Traci
> >
> >
> > Traci Swatek-Rice
> > DMOS5 manufacturing
> > Texas Instruments
> > <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21720 From: Memrie Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Black Specks
Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear to be
black specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they
were just coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for
several days, there were some of my fish that had no specks now have
some. I am guessing (and i mean guessing) that these are some type of
parasite but I have not been able to find a discription that matches
this. Any clue?

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21721 From: EAR Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
I tried crays once and they ate everybody.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21722 From: Pickles Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Mine did too, and they used the undergravel filter risers to crawl right out of the tank...I've had the bluse ones you buy and the wild ones... they hunt at night and loved my gold fish! I threw them back in the creek!! And the wild ones can bring parasites into your tanks...dont know if the LFS ones do or not...They up rooted the plants and just made a general mess of the tank...Mary


----- Original Message -----
From: EAR
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:00 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: A betta in same tank as crays???


I tried crays once and they ate everybody.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21723 From: gorsford Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: I've got my molly babies !!!
I finally have my fry.
there are 50 of tem, 2 of my females gave birth last night
they are all sailfin mollies.
let me try to post my pix to the group
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21724 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Curious as to what you were feeding your crays if they ate your fish.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21725 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Curious as to what you were feeding your crays if they ate your fish?
Roxanne

Answer - Fish.

:D (Sorry, couldn't resist)

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21726 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
There is a disease called Black Spot Disease caused by a parasite.

I don't know much about treatment and I did a quick Google and nothing
jumped out at me about it. Do a Google or Yahoo Search for "Black spot
disease" treatment and read over as much info as possible to be certain this
is what you have. Then proceed with recommended treatment.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Black Specks

Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear to be black
specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they were just
coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for several days,
there were some of my fish that had no specks now have some. I am guessing
(and i mean guessing) that these are some type of parasite but I have not
been able to find a discription that matches this. Any clue?

Mem



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21727 From: EAR Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
They love goldfish because goldfish sleep on the tank bottom thus becoming easy prey.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21728 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Lenny you wise guy (grin) I was wondering what they were feeding their
crays besides ~fish~ because I am going to pick up my red claws next
week.
I have 25 gallons of water in a 75 gallon tank with a bubbler, two
heaters, a sponge filter and a tight screen top.
For substrate I had a few buckets of agates I washed in warm water
with no soap.
I may have to turn down the filter as the water may be flowing too
fast although it flows about the same rate as a near by stream that has
native cray in it.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21729 From: quietari Date: 4/9/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone Near NYC have Shrimp for sale?
Although i havent bought anything (yet) from them, as i am still trying
reach the desired Co2 levels in my planted aquarium before i place
specialty shrimp in it, i would strongly suggest checking out

http://www.azgardens.com/shrimpfactory.php

the prices are highly competitive and their selection includes more
that what i have found at my LFS and specialty stores where i live
(major city). They have a DOA policy to refund for credit, the only
drawback is there is a minimum purchase amount, and shipping\handling
is charged separately on top of that price. This is the reason why
i've been waiting; i have to order everything at once.

But their selection makes me drool. My favorite is the rudolph red
nose shrimp.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kevin@...> wrote:
>
> Hey guys!
> Does anyone near the NYC area have a dozen or so each Amano shrimp and
> Cherry shrimp for sale? They're SOOO expensive at the stores around
> here. Since they're so easy to breed- I'm thinking someone online may
> give me a slightly better price. You can e-mail me directly.
> Thanks!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21730 From: DB1RDMAN@WMCONNECT.COM Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Number 1805
In a message dated 4/10/2007 8:21:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com writes:


> Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
> Posted by: "EAR" txcavu@... txcavu
> Date: Mon Apr 9, 2007 5:00 pm ((PDT))
>
> I tried crays once and they ate everybody.
>

I tried them once, too. They ate everybody including each other. Started
with six, ended up with one large one. They were wild PA crays. </HTML>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21731 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
ty hopefully that will give me more info that what I was using. My
micky mouse platy and now my yellow two bar both have tail fins that
are going away. They both started out with red sores. Strangly
enough the spots showed up 2 weeks apart. As for water quality, if
I do any more water changes than I am I will be doing two a day.
Their levels are wonderful.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> There is a disease called Black Spot Disease caused by a parasite.
>
> I don't know much about treatment and I did a quick Google and
nothing
> jumped out at me about it. Do a Google or Yahoo Search for "Black
spot
> disease" treatment and read over as much info as possible to be
certain this
> is what you have. Then proceed with recommended treatment.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Black Specks
>
> Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear to
be black
> specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they
were just
> coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for several
days,
> there were some of my fish that had no specks now have some. I am
guessing
> (and i mean guessing) that these are some type of parasite but I
have not
> been able to find a discription that matches this. Any clue?
>
> Mem
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21732 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Black Specks
I have done google and read and read. But not seeing anything that
really resembled what I have. The 2 pics that I came across don't
resemble what I am seeing. I wish I could get a pic myself to show
you guys.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> ty hopefully that will give me more info that what I was using. My
> micky mouse platy and now my yellow two bar both have tail fins
that
> are going away. They both started out with red sores. Strangly
> enough the spots showed up 2 weeks apart. As for water quality,
if
> I do any more water changes than I am I will be doing two a day.
> Their levels are wonderful.
>
> mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > There is a disease called Black Spot Disease caused by a parasite.
> >
> > I don't know much about treatment and I did a quick Google and
> nothing
> > jumped out at me about it. Do a Google or Yahoo Search
for "Black
> spot
> > disease" treatment and read over as much info as possible to be
> certain this
> > is what you have. Then proceed with recommended treatment.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@ 504-621-1870
> > Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
> >
> > FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
> files...
> > https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
> can be to
> > use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most
important
> files and
> > folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Memrie
> > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:01 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Black Specks
> >
> > Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear
to
> be black
> > specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they
> were just
> > coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for several
> days,
> > there were some of my fish that had no specks now have some. I
am
> guessing
> > (and i mean guessing) that these are some type of parasite but I
> have not
> > been able to find a discription that matches this. Any clue?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21733 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
While I like their website for information and they seem to have been around
a long time, I have yet to order from them. AZGardens.com seems to have had
numerous complaints, in many forums, about their shipping/handling charges.
They do not state what the charges will be anywhere in their site, according
to the complaints I've read, and then when you get your bill... it's quite a
shocking amount. I checked the BBBonline.com for any complaints and there
weren't any listed so I'm not sure it these were just forum rumblings or
not... but double/triple check with their customer service on the
shipping/handling charges and get them in writing, before agreeing to the
order. You can Google - AZGardens.com complaint - and read the complaints
yourself.

I'm NOT saying, "Don't use them", but just make sure you don't get bitten
by an excessive shipping/handling charge.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21734 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
If a shop, ebayer, or aquabidder cannot provide me with a shipping estimate I don't buy from them.
I don't like ugly surprises.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: nhsnola@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 10:54 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: now AZGardens.com info


While I like their website for information and they seem to have been around
a long time, I have yet to order from them. AZGardens.com seems to have had
numerous complaints, in many forums, about their shipping/handling charges.
They do not state what the charges will be anywhere in their site, according
to the complaints I've read, and then when you get your bill... it's quite a
shocking amount. I checked the BBBonline.com for any complaints and there
weren't any listed so I'm not sure it these were just forum rumblings or
not... but double/triple check with their customer service on the
shipping/handling charges and get them in writing, before agreeing to the
order. You can Google - AZGardens.com complaint - and read the complaints
yourself.

I'm NOT saying, "Don't use them", but just make sure you don't get bitten
by an excessive shipping/handling charge.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com


________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21735 From: Wendie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: now AZGardens.com info
They are very slow. Subbed lower priced plants when what I ordered was out of stock.
I would not use them again.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: now AZGardens.com info


If a shop, ebayer, or aquabidder cannot provide me with a shipping estimate I don't buy from them.
I don't like ugly surprises.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: nhsnola@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 10 Apr 2007 10:54 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: now AZGardens.com info

While I like their website for information and they seem to have been around
a long time, I have yet to order from them. AZGardens.com seems to have had
numerous complaints, in many forums, about their shipping/handling charges.
They do not state what the charges will be anywhere in their site, according
to the complaints I've read, and then when you get your bill... it's quite a
shocking amount. I checked the BBBonline.com for any complaints and there
weren't any listed so I'm not sure it these were just forum rumblings or
not... but double/triple check with their customer service on the
shipping/handling charges and get them in writing, before agreeing to the
order. You can Google - AZGardens.com complaint - and read the complaints
yourself.

I'm NOT saying, "Don't use them", but just make sure you don't get bitten
by an excessive shipping/handling charge.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Biz - http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com

__________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21736 From: jett07002 Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Digest Numbers
I am receiving emails that have digest numbers jumping all over the
place. Am I missing some? Is this something wrong with the number
system? Maybe my email is out of whack? Anyone else having this
problem...(if it is one)?

joet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21737 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Numbers
It's a Yahoo Groups thing. I like the Digest because at least you can
partially tell if you are missing an email but then you never know if the
Digests contain all of the emails in a thread for that Digest. I keep going
back and forth with my various groups. The ones where I mostly lurk and
learn, I go on Digest. The ones where I like to contribute also, I go on
Individual mails... but I never know if I'm getting them all. I wish the
individual mails would have the message number in the subject line.

You can always check the group site but then you aren't sure if the spam
filters picked up some messages and held them up in the spam folder until a
moderator releases them.

It's just the nature of the beast.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jett07002
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 5:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Digest Numbers


I am receiving emails that have digest numbers jumping all over the
place. Am I missing some? Is this something wrong with the number
system? Maybe my email is out of whack? Anyone else having this
problem...(if it is one)?

joet



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21738 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks
I have had black spot disease and fins do not go away…no sores. So this
must be something else. I don’t have any suggestions, unless the black
spots and the fin rot/sores are two different things happening at the same
time. The black spot disease does not need treatment (in fact does not
really respond to any treatment) and will disappear in time as long as your
fish are not in an outdoor pond (parasite needs a snail and a bird like a
heron to reproduce).



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks



I have done google and read and read. But not seeing anything that
really resembled what I have. The 2 pics that I came across don't
resemble what I am seeing. I wish I could get a pic myself to show
you guys.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> ty hopefully that will give me more info that what I was using. My
> micky mouse platy and now my yellow two bar both have tail fins
that
> are going away. They both started out with red sores. Strangly
> enough the spots showed up 2 weeks apart. As for water quality,
if
> I do any more water changes than I am I will be doing two a day.
> Their levels are wonderful.
>
> mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > There is a disease called Black Spot Disease caused by a parasite.
> >
> > I don't know much about treatment and I did a quick Google and
> nothing
> > jumped out at me about it. Do a Google or Yahoo Search
for "Black
> spot
> > disease" treatment and read over as much info as possible to be
> certain this
> > is what you have. Then proceed with recommended treatment.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@ 504-621-1870
> > Fish - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
> > Biz - http://www.Neighbor <http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com>
hoodHomeServices.com
> >
> > FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
> files...
> > https://mozy. <https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI> com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out
how simple and secure it
> can be to
> > use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most
important
> files and
> > folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Memrie
> > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:01 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Black Specks
> >
> > Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear
to
> be black
> > specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they
> were just
> > coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for several
> days,
> > there were some of my fish that had no specks now have some. I
am
> guessing
> > (and i mean guessing) that these are some type of parasite but I
> have not
> > been able to find a discription that matches this. Any clue?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21739 From: Memrie Date: 4/10/2007
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks
Well that is good news on the black spot part. I am sure that the
other is bacterial, it really does not have the fuzzy look of
fungal. (I could be wrong) With the micky mouse platy, it started
out like a nip or bite that was bleeding. I removed her to a
seperate tank and melafixed (just incase) The next morning I noticed
the redness was gone but in place was a small hole which has grown in
size. No fuzziness or anything around the area. The yellow two bar
however appeared to have a white growth in the center of its tail
fin. I moved him as he had never unclamped his fins or seemed to
relax in the qt tank. He also had developed a red spot on his body
near the anal fin but still on the side. The next morning there was
a hole and it has grown quite large during the day. I guess the good
news is that the red moon platies seem to be doing well. Nice and
relaxed and if no signs of infection then they go to main tank in 3
weeks. Anyway, LFS said to bring him back and he would trade me out
something else. That I will do tomorrow. Hopefully, I will find some
nice fat gal that would be ready to drop in a week or so. Crazy I
am.

mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I have had black spot disease and fins do not go away…no sores. So
this
> must be something else. I don't have any suggestions, unless the
black
> spots and the fin rot/sores are two different things happening at
the same
> time. The black spot disease does not need treatment (in fact does
not
> really respond to any treatment) and will disappear in time as long
as your
> fish are not in an outdoor pond (parasite needs a snail and a bird
like a
> heron to reproduce).
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2007 12:30 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Black Specks
>
>
>
> I have done google and read and read. But not seeing anything that
> really resembled what I have. The 2 pics that I came across don't
> resemble what I am seeing. I wish I could get a pic myself to show
> you guys.
>
> mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "Memrie" <mblue833@> wrote:
> >
> > ty hopefully that will give me more info that what I was using.
My
> > micky mouse platy and now my yellow two bar both have tail fins
> that
> > are going away. They both started out with red sores. Strangly
> > enough the spots showed up 2 weeks apart. As for water quality,
> if
> > I do any more water changes than I am I will be doing two a day.
> > Their levels are wonderful.
> >
> > mem
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> > >
> > > There is a disease called Black Spot Disease caused by a
parasite.
> > >
> > > I don't know much about treatment and I did a quick Google and
> > nothing
> > > jumped out at me about it. Do a Google or Yahoo Search
> for "Black
> > spot
> > > disease" treatment and read over as much info as possible to be
> > certain this
> > > is what you have. Then proceed with recommended treatment.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@ 504-621-1870
> > > Fish - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
blogspot.com
> > > Biz - http://www.Neighbor
<http://www.NeighborhoodHomeServices.com>
> hoodHomeServices.com
> > >
> > > FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
> > files...
> > > https://mozy. <https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI> com/?ref=SY4ZSI
Check out
> how simple and secure it
> > can be to
> > > use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most
> important
> > files and
> > > folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Memrie
> > > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2007 5:01 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Black Specks
> > >
> > > Ok, I have platies and guppies that are flashing. There appear
> to
> > be black
> > > specks on their bodies that increase in amount. I thought they
> > were just
> > > coloration diffrences but as I really got to watching for
several
> > days,
> > > there were some of my fish that had no specks now have some. I
> am
> > guessing
> > > (and i mean guessing) that these are some type of parasite but
I
> > have not
> > > been able to find a discription that matches this. Any clue?
> > >
> > > Mem
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21740 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis?
Today I noticed a whitish blob, about 3/8" wide that appears to be an
egg case attached to a piece of anacharis in my cray's tank. There's a
smaller one a few inches away on the same piece of anacharis. And,
there is something pinkish and fetal-like inside these cases. I
started to remove them, but hubby said to leave them as "there might
be something interesting in them." There are no other critters in
with the cray; could these egg cases have been on the anacharis when
we bought it months ago? And what could they be? The cray might
discover them and eat them. I have three other aquariums - one with
goldies, one with platies, and one with large cichlids. I suspect the
goldies and the cichlids would eat them; not sure about the platies,
although they eat their own fry. I think the best course is to put the
anacharis in a small fish bowl by itself with some of the cray's water
and just wait and see what happens. Any idea what kind of critters we
can expect? I'd like to be prepared to care for them properly (or
dispose of them, if need be).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21741 From: iheartcine Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: New Pond Owner Questions
I was so happy to find this group and read some of your past posts.
Thanks for being here!

I bought a house with a koi pond and the owner left me two adult fish
and some very rudimentary instructions. Today I put some algae
chemicals in the pond and attempted to clean the giant filters in the
barrel. Several questions result:

1) Is there any less disgusting way to clean out the filters? I had
pond scum all over me by the time I was finished. He put the barrel
in a place that I have to drag or carry the filters quite a ways and
when they are full of scum they are very heavy.
2) The water, which I could easily see through before these two
activities, is now murky and opaque. Have I done something wrong or,
if that's common, what are some suggestions for cleaning the water?
And there other underwater life that can cohabitate with koi that
would clean, use, or eat the algae?
4) He gave me two fish that are about 14-16" long. I am concerned
that I can't afford fish big enough for them not to be prey. There is
an "upper" pond which does not have filters or bubbles in it. Water
cycles through both. Is this a safe place to put the fish while they
are getting bigger?

Any suggestions or help offered is greatly appreciated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21742 From: michelle_brown134 Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: AZ Gardens and Shrimp
Good Afternoon All,

I have ordered three batches of shrimp of different varieties from
AZ Gardens in the past month. The first batch died almost
immediately. This could have been my fault though do to
overcrowding. The second bunch did not fair well either though and
they were in a MUCH larger tank. I now have a third bunch and have
already lost all my Rhino's (the red ones, with the long noses.) Even
though, I was happy that AZ Gardens did replace the second bunch,
after I paid for the first and this last one, I was very unhappy that
they have not sent along ANY advice NOR did they answer my phone call,
to give me more information as to what I could be doing wrong. I have
done the water tests and they appear to be fine but, I am really not
sure what to do. I love those darling red Rhino's but, am fearful of
getting any more. I do not want anymore to die, at the hands of
someone who MUST have no idea what She is doing. Sincerely, Dawn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21743 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Can you take some pictures of your entire setup? Pond(s), Filters, etc. Do
the filter systems look DIY or do they have a manufacturers name and model
which you can give us?

It's not good to use algae killing chemicals. What is the brand name or
ingredients of the product you used? Algae is a single celled plant. Those
chemicals can and often do kill your good plants as well causing many other
problems.

IMO, adding chemicals to fix problems is almost never the correct path to
choose.... other than using a dechlor product to make your tap water safe
when topping off the pond or doing PWC's (partial water changes) and for
certain other specific issues but not for general water quality issues.
Those need to be handled by the ecology and biology of the pond, otherwise
you will be constantly adding chemicals.

How big is your pond in gallons? If you do not know, take measurements of
length, width and depth? If it's a round pond, measure the diameter or
circumference and depth. If it's an odd shape, take a picture and
length/width/depth measurements and we can figure it out close enough.

Do you have any live plants in your main pond or in the smaller pond? Is
this smaller pond in line with your main pond plumbing? You mention that
water cycles through both but you also say it is not filtered. I think you
mean it does not have a separate filter system but I want to be clear. How
is it connected to your main pond? Pipe, stream, waterfall???

Here is a blog I did about some of my favorite pond sites for information
purposes. Some of these sites push their chemical fixes but disregard all
of that until you know more about the proper ecology of your pond so you do
not turn your pond into a chemical cess pool.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/pond-information-and-diy-pond.html (if
it wraps, just go to my blog link in my signature and this "Pond
Information" blog was posted in March, 2007. You will see archive links on
the right side.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of iheartcine
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 9:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Pond Owner Questions

I was so happy to find this group and read some of your past posts.
Thanks for being here!

I bought a house with a koi pond and the owner left me two adult fish and
some very rudimentary instructions. Today I put some algae chemicals in the
pond and attempted to clean the giant filters in the barrel. Several
questions result:

1) Is there any less disgusting way to clean out the filters? I had pond
scum all over me by the time I was finished. He put the barrel in a place
that I have to drag or carry the filters quite a ways and when they are full
of scum they are very heavy.
2) The water, which I could easily see through before these two activities,
is now murky and opaque. Have I done something wrong or, if that's common,
what are some suggestions for cleaning the water?
And there other underwater life that can cohabitate with koi that would
clean, use, or eat the algae?
4) He gave me two fish that are about 14-16" long. I am concerned that I
can't afford fish big enough for them not to be prey. There is an "upper"
pond which does not have filters or bubbles in it. Water cycles through
both. Is this a safe place to put the fish while they are getting bigger?

Any suggestions or help offered is greatly appreciated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21744 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Another possibility: The last new item I bought for the cray was a
piece of driftwood from an online store, but that was about three
months ago. I've moved the anacharis with the egg cases to a small
fish bowl with water from the cray's tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> Today I noticed a whitish blob, about 3/8" wide that appears to be an
> egg case attached to a piece of anacharis in my cray's tank. There's a
> smaller one a few inches away on the same piece of anacharis. And,
> there is something pinkish and fetal-like inside these cases. I
> started to remove them, but hubby said to leave them as "there might
> be something interesting in them." There are no other critters in
> with the cray; could these egg cases have been on the anacharis when
> we bought it months ago? And what could they be? The cray might
> discover them and eat them. I have three other aquariums - one with
> goldies, one with platies, and one with large cichlids. I suspect the
> goldies and the cichlids would eat them; not sure about the platies,
> although they eat their own fry. I think the best course is to put the
> anacharis in a small fish bowl by itself with some of the cray's water
> and just wait and see what happens. Any idea what kind of critters we
> can expect? I'd like to be prepared to care for them properly (or
> dispose of them, if need be).
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21745 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
Just a wild guess.

Any chance a dragon fly could have laid egs in the tank? I am not familiar with the eggs of the dragon fly but I hear the larvae are terrors to aquatic life.

Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: shrlycat@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)


Another possibility: The last new item I bought for the cray was a
piece of driftwood from an online store, but that was about three
months ago. I've moved the anacharis with the egg cases to a small
fish bowl with water from the cray's tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> Today I noticed a whitish blob, about 3/8" wide that appears to be an
> egg case attached to a piece of anacharis in my cray's tank. There's a
> smaller one a few inches away on the same piece of anacharis. And,
> there is something pinkish and fetal-like inside these cases. I
> started to remove them, but hubby said to leave them as "there might
> be something interesting in them." There are no other critters in
> with the cray; could these egg cases have been on the anacharis when
> we bought it months ago? And what could they be? The cray might
> discover them and eat them. I have three other aquariums - one with
> goldies, one with platies, and one with large cichlids. I suspect the
> goldies and the cichlids would eat them; not sure about the platies,
> although they eat their own fry. I think the best course is to put the
> anacharis in a small fish bowl by itself with some of the cray's water
> and just wait and see what happens. Any idea what kind of critters we
> can expect? I'd like to be prepared to care for them properly (or
> dispose of them, if need be).
>
Recent Activity
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21746 From: Kevin Batey Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
I had a couple of blue finned killie fish hatch from eggs attached to anachris that I got from a LFS - they said the anachris was pond raised in FL, so I could expect to get a free fish or two every now and then...

Deenerz@... wrote: Just a wild guess.

Any chance a dragon fly could have laid egs in the tank? I am not familiar with the eggs of the dragon fly but I hear the larvae are terrors to aquatic life.

Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: shrlycat@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)

Another possibility: The last new item I bought for the cray was a
piece of driftwood from an online store, but that was about three
months ago. I've moved the anacharis with the egg cases to a small
fish bowl with water from the cray's tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@...>
wrote:
>
> Today I noticed a whitish blob, about 3/8" wide that appears to be an
> egg case attached to a piece of anacharis in my cray's tank. There's a
> smaller one a few inches away on the same piece of anacharis. And,
> there is something pinkish and fetal-like inside these cases. I
> started to remove them, but hubby said to leave them as "there might
> be something interesting in them." There are no other critters in
> with the cray; could these egg cases have been on the anacharis when
> we bought it months ago? And what could they be? The cray might
> discover them and eat them. I have three other aquariums - one with
> goldies, one with platies, and one with large cichlids. I suspect the
> goldies and the cichlids would eat them; not sure about the platies,
> although they eat their own fry. I think the best course is to put the
> anacharis in a small fish bowl by itself with some of the cray's water
> and just wait and see what happens. Any idea what kind of critters we
> can expect? I'd like to be prepared to care for them properly (or
> dispose of them, if need be).
>
Recent Activity
10New Members
4New Photos
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Marine aquarium fish
Marine fish tank
Marine fish supply
Top Scientist
10 Greatest Ever
Share and vote
on Bix.com!
Sitebuilder
Free Download
Build your web
site in minutes.
Yahoo! Groups
Start a group
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Connect with others..

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AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21747 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: A betta in same tank as crays???
Sorry, guess I should have said redclawed crabs. They
don't bother any of the fish.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Your crays don't try to have your betta for dinner?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-swatek@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> My two redclaws are both doing well. The male (I think)
>> just finished molting. He grabbed a pea and took it
>> under the bridge when I fed them last night so I assume
>> he is not too stressed by it. He actually came out and
>> got it as we were standing by. He's usually much more
>> catious than that. I have left the empty shell in the
>> tank for him to eat but he isn't showing any interest
>> in it. So they are doing well with the betta and growing
>> bigger. Yeah! I was afraid I might lose one. Guess I did
>> a much better job cycling this tank then I did with the
>> other tank. Thanks Lenny! Ok, back to work now. I hope
>> everyone has an awesome Easter weekend.
>>
>> Traci
>>
>>
>> Traci Swatek-Rice
>> DMOS5 manufacturing
>> Texas Instruments
>> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21748 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
We do have lots of dragon flies here, but haven't seen any with the
cooler weather recently; and haven't seen any indoors, but possible.
I'll continue searching online. Thanks for the idea.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Just a wild guess.
>
> Any chance a dragon fly could have laid egs in the tank? I am not
familiar with the eggs of the dragon fly but I hear the larvae are
terrors to aquatic life.
>
> Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shrlycat@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wed, 11 Apr 2007 12:39 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases
on my anacharis? (P. S.)
>
>
> Another possibility: The last new item I bought for the cray was a
> piece of driftwood from an online store, but that was about three
> months ago. I've moved the anacharis with the egg cases to a small
> fish bowl with water from the cray's tank.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Shirley Reichard" <shrlycat@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Today I noticed a whitish blob, about 3/8" wide that appears to be an
> > egg case attached to a piece of anacharis in my cray's tank. There's a
> > smaller one a few inches away on the same piece of anacharis. And,
> > there is something pinkish and fetal-like inside these cases. I
> > started to remove them, but hubby said to leave them as "there might
> > be something interesting in them." There are no other critters in
> > with the cray; could these egg cases have been on the anacharis when
> > we bought it months ago? And what could they be? The cray might
> > discover them and eat them. I have three other aquariums - one with
> > goldies, one with platies, and one with large cichlids. I suspect the
> > goldies and the cichlids would eat them; not sure about the platies,
> > although they eat their own fry. I think the best course is to put the
> > anacharis in a small fish bowl by itself with some of the cray's water
> > and just wait and see what happens. Any idea what kind of critters we
> > can expect? I'd like to be prepared to care for them properly (or
> > dispose of them, if need be).
> >
> Recent Activity
> 10New Members
> 4New Photos
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine fish
> Marine supply fish
> Marine aquarium fish
> Marine fish tank
> Marine fish supply
> Top Scientist
> 10 Greatest Ever
> Share and vote
> on Bix.com!
> Sitebuilder
> Free Download
> Build your web
> site in minutes.
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
> in 3 easy steps.
> Connect with others..
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21749 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/11/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
One important factor you do not mention is where you are located.
Presuming you are somewhere in the northern tier of states where spring
may have sprung already, the algal growth is a natural occurrence in the
spring, and there is little you can do to stem the growth. How long it
will last depends on the conditions in the pond.

I am trying to envision your filter from your description, but my powers
are a bit weak tonight, and I am having a hard time doing so. I'd
probably take a hose to the filter, remove the frames, or whatever, and
hose them down right there. If you do it in a container, you'll have a
good supply of water for your garden, and it will do wonders for those
plants in the garden.

I'd advise you to look around for some pond books. I've always liked the
Frances Perry books, though there are a number of other good books
around. Try your library, and if you like the books there, buy them. Try
used bookstores next.

As for your water, you'll just need to let the filters and nature take
their courses, and the water will eventually clear.

If the water is circulating through both ponds, by all means use it as a
grow out pond for smaller fish. With the water circulating through both
ponds, it is being filtered by your filter. If the water is not
circulating through both ponds, you might still be able to use it as a
grow out pond, but with much less load. I would then advise that you
determine a way that the circulation could be made to go through both.
You may need some help in doing that so that it is done correctly, and
would be relatively problem free.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of iheartcine
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 10:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Pond Owner Questions

I was so happy to find this group and read some of your past posts.
Thanks for being here!

I bought a house with a koi pond and the owner left me two adult fish
and some very rudimentary instructions. Today I put some algae
chemicals in the pond and attempted to clean the giant filters in the
barrel. Several questions result:

1) Is there any less disgusting way to clean out the filters? I had
pond scum all over me by the time I was finished. He put the barrel
in a place that I have to drag or carry the filters quite a ways and
when they are full of scum they are very heavy.
2) The water, which I could easily see through before these two
activities, is now murky and opaque. Have I done something wrong or,
if that's common, what are some suggestions for cleaning the water?
And there other underwater life that can cohabitate with koi that
would clean, use, or eat the algae?
4) He gave me two fish that are about 14-16" long. I am concerned
that I can't afford fish big enough for them not to be prey. There is
an "upper" pond which does not have filters or bubbles in it. Water
cycles through both. Is this a safe place to put the fish while they
are getting bigger?

Any suggestions or help offered is greatly appreciated!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21750 From: tisdiz Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: What the heck is inside these egg cases on my anacharis? (P. S.)
lol...can you get a picture uploaded? I'd sure like to see.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21751 From: Dawana Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
I'm in the process of setting up a new 20L planted aquarium. I was
wondering if anyone could tell me if I can house yellow tetras and
dwarf puffers in the same tank?

Thanks in advance!!

Lurking but learning,
Dawana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21752 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
puffers are really really agressive; don't know about yellow tetras unless you mean Lemon Tetras. They are mellow and like to be in groups

Dawana <dawanalea@...> wrote: I'm in the process of setting up a new 20L planted aquarium. I was
wondering if anyone could tell me if I can house yellow tetras and
dwarf puffers in the same tank?

Thanks in advance!!

Lurking but learning,
Dawana






NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
Check it out
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982


---------------------------------
Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21753 From: Curtis Taylor Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
http://www.dwarfpuffers.com/setup4.htm This says no.

On 12 Apr 2007 07:42:31 -0700, Laurie Brown <tisdiz@...> wrote:
>
> puffers are really really agressive; don't know about yellow tetras
> unless you mean Lemon Tetras. They are mellow and like to be in groups
>
> Dawana <dawanalea@... <dawanalea%40msn.com>> wrote: I'm in the process
> of setting up a new 20L planted aquarium. I was
> wondering if anyone could tell me if I can house yellow tetras and
> dwarf puffers in the same tank?
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Lurking but learning,
> Dawana
>
> NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
> Check it out
> http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21754 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
uh, did you read what you linked to? It says they will pick apart almost every other thing in the tank except each other and little scavengers that may or may not attract thier attention.

Curtis Taylor <aquatichobby@...> wrote: http://www.dwarfpuffers.com/setup4.htm This says no.

On 12 Apr 2007 07:42:31 -0700, Laurie Brown <tisdiz@...> wrote:
>
> puffers are really really agressive; don't know about yellow tetras
> unless you mean Lemon Tetras. They are mellow and like to be in groups
>
> Dawana <dawanalea@... <dawanalea%40msn.com>> wrote: I'm in the process
> of setting up a new 20L planted aquarium. I was
> wondering if anyone could tell me if I can house yellow tetras and
> dwarf puffers in the same tank?
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> Lurking but learning,
> Dawana
>
> NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
> Check it out
> http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast
> with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
Check it out
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982


---------------------------------
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21755 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: need advice , was thinking of breeding
Is this a money making business? Love fish and my aquariums, just
wondering is there money to be made doing this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21756 From: iheartcine Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Thank you for your feedback. I am in Seattle.

The water has indeed cleared. The filter is just a big barrel with
poly pad filters that have to be removed - soppy wet and full of pond
scum - and hauled elsewhere to be hosed off. I did that, but because
he put the filter barrel in a place he thought would be hidden, it's a
major schlep to get the filters some place they can be unrolled and
hosed. What a pain. If there were an easier way, I'd love to know
what it is!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21757 From: Chad Plum Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: need advice , was thinking of breeding
Yes there is a lot of Money to be made right now you just have to have the right area and chose what you want to do with in the hobby
chicagobears2010 <chicagobears2010@...> wrote: Is this a money making business? Love fish and my aquariums, just
wondering is there money to be made doing this?






---------------------------------
Never miss an email again!
Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21758 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime in it
and its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I
have mollys, guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21759 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??
Puffers are best kept alone, or in a species tank. However, if you do
keep a species tank, keep an eye on them as they may become aggressive
toward each other. If this occurs, find a new home for the aggressive
one, though, over time, you may actually end up with one puffer in the
tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dawana
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 10:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Yellow Tetras and Dwarf Puffers??

I'm in the process of setting up a new 20L planted aquarium. I was
wondering if anyone could tell me if I can house yellow tetras and
dwarf puffers in the same tank?

Thanks in advance!!

Lurking but learning,
Dawana
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21760 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: need advice , was thinking of breeding
For the most part, breeding will give you enough money to keep your fish
room running. A lot depends on the fish and the market for the fish. If
you breed convicts, you'll go broke in short order. They are prolific
breeders, and not many people want them. If you raise high quality black
angels, you may be able to make some money at it. While angels are easy
breeders, creating a high quality line takes time and effort. Really
good blacks will find a ready market willing to spend a bit more for a
quality fish.

Another factor you have to face now is the dwindling number of mom and
pop stores and the proliferation o f the big box stores. It will be very
difficult to gain entry to the big boxes, especially for the basement
breeder.

If you do your research, you should be able to make a little bit of
money.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chicagobears2010
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 4:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] need advice , was thinking of breeding

Is this a money making business? Love fish and my aquariums, just
wondering is there money to be made doing this?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21761 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
What have you done to the tank in the past two weeks? Filter changing?
Filter cleaning? Added more fish? Chemicals or medicines added? Water
changes with chloramine treated water? Insufficient bio-filtration media?
Excessive bioload? How many of each fish do you have in the 10G? 10G's
aren't the best tanks for prolific breeders.

Any of these things, not done properly, could cause your ammonia levels to
rise. What is your pH? If you pH is below 7.5, you have a larger cushion
before ammonia gets toxic. Here is a chart to show pH/ammonia toxicity
rates.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia again in my 3 week old tank

I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime in it and
its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I have mollys,
guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21762 From: larry Date: 4/12/2007
Subject: my poor corys
When i got my kribs,bricardis,yellow lab,blue zebra,red zebra ang
yellow auratus cichlids i was told that they would be fine with my
pleco,lemon,serpae and black neon tetras as well as my
corys,clownloaches,dojo loach.
All my fish are fine except for my 2 albino corys.both had fins
ripped,barbs completely torn off and 1 had an eye missing. My
loaches,pleco and my bronze cory and emerald cory are fine.
Why they did damage to my albino ones i dont know. But i had no
choice put to put my 2 albino corys to rest. They couldnt find food
and i didnt want to see them starve
Does anyone have any ideas why theywere attacked and yet my other
two corys and loaches are fine?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21763 From: mkorday Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: my poor corys
The basic thing is the predators....
it is true that if u put tiger with sheeps
fox with rabits
then what will happend
poors are always sufferer..
try to keep them in quarintine tank with accroflavin liquid( 5 drops)
cories donot like salt.

best regards
milind


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "larry" <luckyboi3200@...> wrote:
>
> When i got my kribs,bricardis,yellow lab,blue zebra,red zebra ang
> yellow auratus cichlids i was told that they would be fine with my
> pleco,lemon,serpae and black neon tetras as well as my
> corys,clownloaches,dojo loach.
> All my fish are fine except for my 2 albino corys.both had fins
> ripped,barbs completely torn off and 1 had an eye missing. My
> loaches,pleco and my bronze cory and emerald cory are fine.
> Why they did damage to my albino ones i dont know. But i had no
> choice put to put my 2 albino corys to rest. They couldnt find food
> and i didnt want to see them starve
> Does anyone have any ideas why theywere attacked and yet my other
> two corys and loaches are fine?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21764 From: Memrie Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Being a newbie I hesitate to answer, but I will try. YOu are in the
middle of cycling. A pwc would be called for. Good job monitering and
finding out your levels. Chemicals just slow the cycling process down.

mem

(if I am wrong somebody spank me.=!) --- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime in
it
> and its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I
> have mollys, guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21765 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
What is
Excessive bioload? I have been putting this bio---- baterial stuff
in it this week. I have 3 mollys, 2 platys, 1 guppy. My daughter
wants to do a 50% water change. Is that a good idea. Is putting that
baterial stuff in it a bad idea.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What have you done to the tank in the past two weeks? Filter
changing?
> Filter cleaning? Added more fish? Chemicals or medicines added?
Water
> changes with chloramine treated water? Insufficient bio-
filtration media?
> Excessive bioload? How many of each fish do you have in the 10G?
10G's
> aren't the best tanks for prolific breeders.
>
> Any of these things, not done properly, could cause your ammonia
levels to
> rise. What is your pH? If you pH is below 7.5, you have a larger
cushion
> before ammonia gets toxic. Here is a chart to show pH/ammonia
toxicity
> rates.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
>
> I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime
in it and
> its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I
have mollys,
> guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21766 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
This is hard work. My ph is 7.9


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> What have you done to the tank in the past two weeks? Filter
changing?
> Filter cleaning? Added more fish? Chemicals or medicines added?
Water
> changes with chloramine treated water? Insufficient bio-
filtration media?
> Excessive bioload? How many of each fish do you have in the 10G?
10G's
> aren't the best tanks for prolific breeders.
>
> Any of these things, not done properly, could cause your ammonia
levels to
> rise. What is your pH? If you pH is below 7.5, you have a larger
cushion
> before ammonia gets toxic. Here is a chart to show pH/ammonia
toxicity
> rates.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
>
> I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime
in it and
> its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I
have mollys,
> guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21767 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
Ok so do a 50% water change?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> Being a newbie I hesitate to answer, but I will try. YOu are in
the
> middle of cycling. A pwc would be called for. Good job
monitering and
> finding out your levels. Chemicals just slow the cycling process
down.
>
> mem
>
> (if I am wrong somebody spank me.=!) --- In
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@> wrote:
> >
> > I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put
prime in
> it
> > and its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back
up.? I
> > have mollys, guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21768 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
In a message dated 4/13/2007 1:07:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dctn_2005@... writes:

Excessive bioload? I have been putting this bio---- baterial stuff
in it this week. I have 3 mollys, 2 platys, 1 guppy. My daughter
wants to do a 50% water change. Is that a good idea. Is putting that
baterial stuff in it a bad idea.



Excessive bioload means too many fish for the system. IMO you have way too
many fish for a 3 week old 10 gallon tank.

I think you would be better off doing a series of smaller water changes than
a single 50% one. Continue to monitor your parameters closely.

Good luck!

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21769 From: joe t Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
A 10 gallon tank is not very easy to control, believe it or not. Beginners usually think it is better cause it's small. At thats the problem! It is much too easy to overload a 10 gallon tank. An overload of almost anything could cause spikes in the water condition.

As your previous replier pointed out it could be all of what he suggested. But I would be willing to bet it's one of two things. 1.) You are either feeding too much. What happens is the uneaten food goes bad setting on the bottom of the tank. If you have decorations, etc. you probably do not see it to siphon it out cause it goes under and between rocks and other places where you can't see it and the fish can't get at it.

OR 2) You simply have too many fish.

joet


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21770 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your stocking your aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out the window with anything less than 55gals.

joe t <jett07002@...> wrote: A 10 gallon tank is not very easy to control, believe it or not. Beginners usually think it is better cause it's small. At thats the problem! It is much too easy to overload a 10 gallon tank. An overload of almost anything could cause spikes in the water condition.

As your previous replier pointed out it could be all of what he suggested. But I would be willing to bet it's one of two things. 1.) You are either feeding too much. What happens is the uneaten food goes bad setting on the bottom of the tank. If you have decorations, etc. you probably do not see it to siphon it out cause it goes under and between rocks and other places where you can't see it and the fish can't get at it.

OR 2) You simply have too many fish.

joet

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
Check it out
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21771 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
In a message dated 4/13/2007 5:11:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tisdiz@... writes:

they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your stocking your
aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out the window
with anything less than 55gals.




I think you can throw it out period. It isn't a very good rule. <VBG>

Brand new tanks are inherently unstable and stocking anywhere close to that
heavily is a recipe for disaster IMO.

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21772 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: The "one inch rule" discussion
Actually, the "One inch per gallon" rule works BUT only when applied
properly. It's not just 1" of length. The only way that works is for fish
that stay under 3" as full grown adults.. so you could have three fish that
are supposed to reach 3" as adults. NO MORE than that.

A group of us on another forum discussed coming up with a simpler set of
rules/guidelines that would work and I have most of that discussion on one
of my blog articles, "New rules to replace the 1" per gallon fish-killing
rule"
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Now the way the 1" per gallon rule would work is if you used the one square
inch of body mass as the rule. For example, a round-bodied goldfish that is
supposed to reach 8" as an adult would also be 4" high and 4" wide so you
would multiply 8x4x4=128 estimated inches of body mass. Some people keep
these fish in a 55G tank and that can work if there is good filtration and
frequent cleaning and PWC's.... but the 1" rule would dictate the fish be in
a 100G+ sized tank. For an Angelfish that reaches 8" long by 8" high by 1"
wide equals 64". If someone is not good with math, then the better
guidelines listed in my blog would also work.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie Brown
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 4:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank

they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your stocking your
aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out the window
with anything less than 55gals.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21773 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: New Pond Owner Questions
Are the pads the only thing in the filer? Does the water feed in from
the top, and exit from the bottom of the barrel? If so, you can make a
few changes to make the filter better for you, particularly if you can
devise a method to back flush the filter. Remove the poly pads from the
filter and then fill the barrel to within 3/4 of the way from the bottom
to the inlet with something that can serve as a bio-filter. This may be
bio balls, rough stones, or something similar. Then cut the poly pads to
fit flat over the base you have created, ,until they are just below the
inlet, making sure they fit tight against the sides to prevent the water
from finding an easier path through the filter. Then, you only need to
remove the top pad or two to rinse and clean, and your filter can still
be operational while you do this. Every so often, you will want to close
the intake and back flush the filter to remove any junk that may have
managed to bypass the pads, and the accumulation of the mulm that is
part of the biological process that will be occurring in your filter.

Placing screens on your pond's outlets will also help keep down the
accumulation of gunk in the filter, though these will probably need to
be cleaned on a more regular basis than the filter itself.

If your filter is not built along the lines that will allow you to do
the above, you may want to take a look at buying or building something
that will be more accommodating.

I'm glad to hear you pond has already cleared. Pondkeeping will teach
you, among other things, patience.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of iheartcine
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 4:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New Pond Owner Questions

Thank you for your feedback. I am in Seattle.

The water has indeed cleared. The filter is just a big barrel with
poly pad filters that have to be removed - soppy wet and full of pond
scum - and hauled elsewhere to be hosed off. I did that, but because
he put the filter barrel in a place he thought would be hidden, it's a
major schlep to get the filters some place they can be unrolled and
hosed. What a pain. If there were an easier way, I'd love to know
what it is!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21774 From: Laurie Brown Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
ooh, great; I'll check it out
Thanks Lenny
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21775 From: iowakoi Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: Dividing plants for Spring
You can store lilies inside if they are damp up to a few weeks if it's
too cold to plant them yet. If you do add them to the pond be sure they
are under the ice level about a foot. You can see a great power point
presentation on re-potting lilies at my pond club's site. Here's the
link http://ciwga.org/photos/divisions/homepage.htm
<http://ciwga.org/photos/divisions/homepage.htm> . I also have tips on
growing lilies and other pond plants on the site. If you use the forum
code of showers it will take 10% off your order. just got the hardy
lilies in, over 45 kinds. Tropicals and night bloomers will be in the
end of the month.

Gail Hopkins

http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21776 From: iowakoi Date: 4/13/2007
Subject: What to do if your plants arrive in the cold
What to do if your lilies arrive in the cold.You can store lilies inside
if they are damp up to a few weeks if it's too cold to plant them yet.
If you do add them to the pond be sure they are under the ice level
about a foot. You can see a great power point presentation on re-potting
lilies at my pond club's site. Here's the link
http://ciwga.org/photos/divisions/homepage.htm
<http://ciwga.org/photos/divisions/homepage.htm> . I also have tips on
growing lilies and other pond plants on the site. If you use the forum
code of showers it will take 10% off your order. just got the hardy
lilies in, over 45 kinds. Tropicals and night bloomers will be in the
end of the month.
Gail Hopkins at http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21777 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Lenny,

You are talking cubic inches, not square inches. And, you also confuse
those cubic inches with mass. Nevertheless, the rule you propose here is
also invalid.

Mass is, indeed, a part of the formula. Another part is the amount of
food the fish consumes in a given period, and the amount of ammonia that
would be produced by the fish.

A fellow by the name of Steve Meyer has done a lot of work in this area,
and has developed a formula that seems to work pretty well in these
kinds of calculations. Unfortunately, the information required to plug
into the formula is generally beyond the average aquarist to collect, so
this is not used or talked about much. He published this work in
Aquarium Fish Magazine, I'm thinking, about 10 years ago. Since this
magazine is not well indexed, it would take me sometime to look it
up--especially if my time period guess is wrong. I also believe it was
talked about in a forum that has now fallen pretty much by the wayside,
but was a major force in its day, FISHNET.

Ray, or some of the other long time guys that hang around here may be
able to help jog my memory about some of this stuff. FISHNET can now be
found at http://www.petsforum.com, though I am not sure what they have
there for archives.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 5:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] The "one inch rule" discussion

Actually, the "One inch per gallon" rule works BUT only when applied
properly. It's not just 1" of length. The only way that works is for
fish
that stay under 3" as full grown adults.. so you could have three fish
that
are supposed to reach 3" as adults. NO MORE than that.

A group of us on another forum discussed coming up with a simpler set of
rules/guidelines that would work and I have most of that discussion on
one
of my blog articles, "New rules to replace the 1" per gallon
fish-killing
rule"
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-
per.
html

Now the way the 1" per gallon rule would work is if you used the one
square
inch of body mass as the rule. For example, a round-bodied goldfish
that is
supposed to reach 8" as an adult would also be 4" high and 4" wide so
you
would multiply 8x4x4=128 estimated inches of body mass. Some people
keep
these fish in a 55G tank and that can work if there is good filtration
and
frequent cleaning and PWC's.... but the 1" rule would dictate the fish
be in
a 100G+ sized tank. For an Angelfish that reaches 8" long by 8" high by
1"
wide equals 64". If someone is not good with math, then the better
guidelines listed in my blog would also work.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be
to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files
and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Laurie Brown
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 4:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank

they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your stocking
your
aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out the
window
with anything less than 55gals.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21778 From: David Kershaw Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
I was taught that one way of assessing the potential total stocking level of
a tank was;-
calculate the surface area in inches.
assess the final size each fish could grow to minus the tail, then use the
formula length of fish minus tail squared, plus 6 inches = the surface area
needed for that fish.
i.e. 1" x 1"=1"+6" = 7" for a one inch fish.
2"x2"=4"+6" = 10" for a two inch fish.
6" x 6" = 36" + 6" = 42" for a six inch fish.
These were the MAXIMUM possible stocking levels in a well maintained and
mature tank and referred to surface area.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: 14 April 2007 16:14
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] The "one inch rule" discussion


Lenny,

You are talking cubic inches, not square inches. And, you also confuse
those cubic inches with mass. Nevertheless, the rule you propose here is
also invalid.

Mass is, indeed, a part of the formula. Another part is the amount of
food the fish consumes in a given period, and the amount of ammonia that
would be produced by the fish.

A fellow by the name of Steve Meyer has done a lot of work in this area,
and has developed a formula that seems to work pretty well in these
kinds of calculations. Unfortunately, the information required to plug
into the formula is generally beyond the average aquarist to collect, so
this is not used or talked about much. He published this work in
Aquarium Fish Magazine, I'm thinking, about 10 years ago. Since this
magazine is not well indexed, it would take me sometime to look it
up--especially if my time period guess is wrong. I also believe it was
talked about in a forum that has now fallen pretty much by the wayside,
but was a major force in its day, FISHNET.

Ray, or some of the other long time guys that hang around here may be
able to help jog my memory about some of this stuff. FISHNET can now be
found at http://www.petsforum.com, though I am not sure what they have
there for archives.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of NHSNOLA
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 5:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] The "one inch rule" discussion

Actually, the "One inch per gallon" rule works BUT only when applied
properly. It's not just 1" of length. The only way that works is for
fish
that stay under 3" as full grown adults.. so you could have three fish
that
are supposed to reach 3" as adults. NO MORE than that.

A group of us on another forum discussed coming up with a simpler set of
rules/guidelines that would work and I have most of that discussion on
one
of my blog articles, "New rules to replace the 1" per gallon
fish-killing
rule"
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-
per.
html

Now the way the 1" per gallon rule would work is if you used the one
square
inch of body mass as the rule. For example, a round-bodied goldfish
that is
supposed to reach 8" as an adult would also be 4" high and 4" wide so
you
would multiply 8x4x4=128 estimated inches of body mass. Some people
keep
these fish in a 55G tank and that can work if there is good filtration
and
frequent cleaning and PWC's.... but the 1" rule would dictate the fish
be in
a 100G+ sized tank. For an Angelfish that reaches 8" long by 8" high by
1"
wide equals 64". If someone is not good with math, then the better
guidelines listed in my blog would also work.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be
to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files
and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Laurie Brown
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 4:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank

they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your stocking
your
aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out the
window
with anything less than 55gals.



--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.446 / Virus Database: 269.4.0/760 - Release Date: 13/04/2007
20:04


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21779 From: Chad Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: coco worm not sure
OK so last night when feeding my salt water tank I noticed a web like
coming out of a hard tube shape thing on my one peice of live rock.

So the web came out about 4 inches from the tube and caught some of
the frozen mysis shrimp that I feed my tank. So after the web caught
some of the mysis it started pulling the web into the tube. It was
really neat to watch but I am not sure what it is. I think a coco worm
or something along that line help if you can I will get a picture
later and try to post it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21780 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-
1-per.
I couldnt get the website to come up. What is it again.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Actually, the "One inch per gallon" rule works BUT only when applied
> properly. It's not just 1" of length. The only way that works is
for fish
> that stay under 3" as full grown adults.. so you could have three
fish that
> are supposed to reach 3" as adults. NO MORE than that.
>
> A group of us on another forum discussed coming up with a simpler
set of
> rules/guidelines that would work and I have most of that discussion
on one
> of my blog articles, "New rules to replace the 1" per gallon fish-
killing
> rule"
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Now the way the 1" per gallon rule would work is if you used the
one square
> inch of body mass as the rule. For example, a round-bodied
goldfish that is
> supposed to reach 8" as an adult would also be 4" high and 4" wide
so you
> would multiply 8x4x4=128 estimated inches of body mass. Some
people keep
> these fish in a 55G tank and that can work if there is good
filtration and
> frequent cleaning and PWC's.... but the 1" rule would dictate the
fish be in
> a 100G+ sized tank. For an Angelfish that reaches 8" long by 8"
high by 1"
> wide equals 64". If someone is not good with math, then the better
> guidelines listed in my blog would also work.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Laurie Brown
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2007 4:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
>
> they say you can have about 1" of fish per gallon when your
stocking your
> aquarium. But I think you can throw that rule of thumb right out
the window
> with anything less than 55gals.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21781 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Ooops. I did say square inches when I meant cubic inches.

I know there are many, many complicated issues involved but as you agree, if
it's not simple, many people will not understand it. At least by
multiplying the LxWxH of the fish, they will get a more workable figure for
"an inch per gallon" rather than trying to use only the length. I believe
most people understand the correlation between body mass and the cubic inch
measurement point that I was trying to make.

I started this thread because we need to constantly talk about the
often-misinterpreted "one inch rule" until, eventually, everyone knows that
it's not a simple length only rule.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21782 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Yeah. The links created by my blog seem too long for the Yahoo Group
emails.

Go to my main blog, http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and then use the search
field at the top or you can browse through all of my pages on the right side
where they are separated by months. The "New guidelines" blog is posted in
February's section. Click the > (arrow) to expand the list of blogs.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21783 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Thanks Lenny. I got up the wesite. I see your online too.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Yeah. The links created by my blog seem too long for the Yahoo
Group
> emails.
>
> Go to my main blog, http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com and then use the
search
> field at the top or you can browse through all of my pages on the
right side
> where they are separated by months. The "New guidelines" blog is
posted in
> February's section. Click the > (arrow) to expand the list of
blogs.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21784 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Ok so is 3 mollys, 1 guppy and 2 platys too much. Guess what I know
have 3 baby mollys....in a ten gallon


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Ooops. I did say square inches when I meant cubic inches.
>
> I know there are many, many complicated issues involved but as you
agree, if
> it's not simple, many people will not understand it. At least by
> multiplying the LxWxH of the fish, they will get a more workable
figure for
> "an inch per gallon" rather than trying to use only the length. I
believe
> most people understand the correlation between body mass and the
cubic inch
> measurement point that I was trying to make.
>
> I started this thread because we need to constantly talk about the
> often-misinterpreted "one inch rule" until, eventually, everyone
knows that
> it's not a simple length only rule.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21785 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
How big do mollys and platys get?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Ok so is 3 mollys, 1 guppy and 2 platys too much. Guess what I
know
> have 3 baby mollys....in a ten gallon
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@> wrote:
> >
> > Ooops. I did say square inches when I meant cubic inches.
> >
> > I know there are many, many complicated issues involved but as
you
> agree, if
> > it's not simple, many people will not understand it. At least by
> > multiplying the LxWxH of the fish, they will get a more workable
> figure for
> > "an inch per gallon" rather than trying to use only the length.
I
> believe
> > most people understand the correlation between body mass and the
> cubic inch
> > measurement point that I was trying to make.
> >
> > I started this thread because we need to constantly talk about the
> > often-misinterpreted "one inch rule" until, eventually, everyone
> knows that
> > it's not a simple length only rule.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@ 504-621-1870
> > Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21786 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
Read http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm which talks about most
livebearers including guppies, mollies and platies. Depending on the type,
they can grow to 1.5" and up to 5" (or more) as adults.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21787 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/14/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
that website didnt come up and I put the L at the end too


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> Read http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm which talks about most
> livebearers including guppies, mollies and platies. Depending on the
type,
> they can grow to 1.5" and up to 5" (or more) as adults.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21788 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 4/15/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
the 1 inch rule = crap and...

well, no, that pretty much covers it.

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
BC Forum http://bcs4me.com/forum
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21789 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/15/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
It did not need an "L" at the end and the link was short enough so it did
not break. It just worked for me. Which web browser and email client are
you using?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21790 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: The "one inch rule" discussion
windows explorer and xp



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "NHSNOLA" <nhsnola@...> wrote:
>
> It did not need an "L" at the end and the link was short enough so
it did
> not break. It just worked for me. Which web browser and email
client are
> you using?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21791 From: quietari Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Striped Angel Fish
Hey all

Just picked up a pair of striped angel fish, and i was looking for any
tips as these are my first angel fish. The tank is heavily planted,
co2 injection with several species of shrimp, a couple plecos, a couple
of yoyo loaches and an african dwarf frog. Ive picked up some general
information on the net, but was hoping for any first hand lessons i can
learn the easy way (here) vs the hard way.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21792 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
I have never kept angels with shrimp, but my guess is that the angels will have be having shrimp cocktail when the shrimp molt.
From my limited experience with angels they can be pretty rough on their fellow tank inhabitants, but I would think that the plecostomus would hold up fine with them.

I am fairly sure others with more experience will reply with a lot more helpful information.

-----Original Message-----
From: quietari@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 7:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Striped Angel Fish


Hey all

Just picked up a pair of striped angel fish, and i was looking for any
tips as these are my first angel fish. The tank is heavily planted,
co2 injection with several species of shrimp, a couple plecos, a couple
of yoyo loaches and an african dwarf frog. Ive picked up some general
information on the net, but was hoping for any first hand lessons i can
learn the easy way (here) vs the hard way.

Thanks
Recent Activity
13New Members
4New Photos
1New Database
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
Marine fish
Marine supply fish
Marine aquarium fish
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Share and vote
on Bix.com!
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Share your views
with the world.
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Start a group
in 3 easy steps.
Connect with others..

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21793 From: Brian W Date: 4/16/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
The shrimp, unless they are large enough most definitely will be food
for the angels. I have been battling black brush algae, and it was
suggested that several large amano shrimp might help to take care of the
problem. Alas, two of them were not large enough, and ...the angel
(about 1 & 1/2 yo) that caught them was quite happy.
The plecos will be fine.
If you want to give them a treat, once they are large enough, feeder
guppies are always appreciated.
My only other knowledge is if the pair mate, they will become quite
territorial about their end/area of the tank.


Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> I have never kept angels with shrimp, but my guess is that the angels
> will have be having shrimp cocktail when the shrimp molt.
> >From my limited experience with angels they can be pretty rough on
> their fellow tank inhabitants, but I would think that the plecostomus
> would hold up fine with them.
>
> I am fairly sure others with more experience will reply with a lot
> more helpful information.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: quietari@... <mailto:quietari%40yahoo.com>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 7:01 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Striped Angel Fish
>
> Hey all
>
> Just picked up a pair of striped angel fish, and i was looking for any
> tips as these are my first angel fish. The tank is heavily planted,
> co2 injection with several species of shrimp, a couple plecos, a couple
> of yoyo loaches and an african dwarf frog. Ive picked up some general
> information on the net, but was hoping for any first hand lessons i can
> learn the easy way (here) vs the hard way.
>
> Thanks
> Recent Activity
> 13New Members
> 4New Photos
> 1New Database
> Visit Your Group
> SPONSORED LINKS
> Marine fish
> Marine supply fish
> Marine aquarium fish
> Marine fish tank
> Marine fish supply
> Top Scientist
> 10 Greatest Ever
> Share and vote
> on Bix.com!
> Free Blogging
> Y! Web Hosting
> Share your views
> with the world.
> Yahoo! Groups
> Start a group
> in 3 easy steps.
> Connect with others..
>
> __________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
> from AOL at AOL.com.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21794 From: Joe Saucedo Date: 4/17/2007
Subject: Re: coco worm not sure
sounds more like a terabellid (sp?) worm than a coco worm.


Joe

On Apr 14, 2007, at 4:23 PM, Chad wrote:

> OK so last night when feeding my salt water tank I noticed a web like
> coming out of a hard tube shape thing on my one peice of live rock.
>
> So the web came out about 4 inches from the tube and caught some of
> the frozen mysis shrimp that I feed my tank. So after the web caught
> some of the mysis it started pulling the web into the tube. It was
> really neat to watch but I am not sure what it is. I think a coco worm
> or something along that line help if you can I will get a picture
> later and try to post it.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·
> ´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21795 From: quietari Date: 4/17/2007
Subject: Re: Striped Angel Fish
<<If you want to give them a treat, once they are large enough, feeder
guppies are always appreciated.>>

I actually have several feeder guppies in the tank that outlived the
fish they were meant to be food for. The shrimp, right now are
larger than the angels, because the angels are babies (barely an inch
long). The tank is heavily planted, do you think that will help the
compatability\territory issue? Are angels less aggressive if they
are well fed? Im wondering if i keep feeder fish in the tank will it
reduce the chances they will go after the shrimps.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Brian W <simplyb@...> wrote:
>
> The shrimp, unless they are large enough most definitely will be
food
> for the angels. I have been battling black brush algae, and it was
> suggested that several large amano shrimp might help to take care
of the
> problem. Alas, two of them were not large enough, and ...the angel
> (about 1 & 1/2 yo) that caught them was quite happy.
> The plecos will be fine.
> If you want to give them a treat, once they are large enough,
feeder
> guppies are always appreciated.
> My only other knowledge is if the pair mate, they will become quite
> territorial about their end/area of the tank.
>
>
> Deenerz@... wrote:
> >
> > I have never kept angels with shrimp, but my guess is that the
angels
> > will have be having shrimp cocktail when the shrimp molt.
> > >From my limited experience with angels they can be pretty rough
on
> > their fellow tank inhabitants, but I would think that the
plecostomus
> > would hold up fine with them.
> >
> > I am fairly sure others with more experience will reply with a
lot
> > more helpful information.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: quietari@... <mailto:quietari%40yahoo.com>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 7:01 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Striped Angel Fish
> >
> > Hey all
> >
> > Just picked up a pair of striped angel fish, and i was looking
for any
> > tips as these are my first angel fish. The tank is heavily
planted,
> > co2 injection with several species of shrimp, a couple plecos, a
couple
> > of yoyo loaches and an african dwarf frog. Ive picked up some
general
> > information on the net, but was hoping for any first hand lessons
i can
> > learn the easy way (here) vs the hard way.
> >
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21796 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Black algae problem answer
Hey Brian W. I have an answer to your black algae problem. Try Siamensis.
This is a particular type of flying fox. They are GREAT, I keep them in
most of my planted tanks and they get large enough to handle angelfish,
about 4-5 inches. They do love to school, so I recommend atleast 3-5 of
them. Another option I have heard that eats it is the redline shark but
they are quite spendy and hard to find, but much more colorful! Hope that
helps. A good place to look to see how to tell the right kind of flying fox
to get is to go to http://www.azgardens.com/algae_eating_fish.php

Becky Hammond
White Fireweed Farm's
Freest Fancy Creations Aquarium Setup & Maintenance
6400 Baseline
Fairbanks, Alaska 99712
(907) 490-4464 or (907) 322-7588
hammond@...
www.whitefireweedfarm.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21797 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Fungus - help
Hi All
>


Recently I have lost 2 fish in my planted tank and they had white spots on
their body and gill, I think its a fungus and I need help from you guys to
clean them up. Is there any home remedy I can use. The reason is the area I
stay there is no local shop who sells anti fungul medicines - I have to wait
a couple of days , so that they can bring it foe me..meanwhile can I try any
home made solution??

Arindam



>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21798 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Fungus - help
Hi All
>


Recently I have lost 2 fish in my planted tank and they had white spots on
their body and gill, I think its a fungus and I need help from you guys to
clean them up. Is there any home remedy I can use. The reason is the area I
stay there is no local shop who sells anti fungul medicines - I have to wait
a couple of days , so that they can bring it foe me..meanwhile can I try any
home made solution??

Arindam



>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21799 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
Can Siamensis go with Otocinclus? My otos I think are lazy. I got 6 in a 15
gal tank.

-------Original Message-------

From: hammond@...
Date: 4/17/2007 10:08:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Black algae problem answer

Hey Brian W. I have an answer to your black algae problem. Try Siamensis.
This is a particular type of flying fox. They are GREAT, I keep them in
most of my planted tanks and they get large enough to handle angelfish,
about 4-5 inches. They do love to school, so I recommend atleast 3-5 of
them. Another option I have heard that eats it is the redline shark but
they are quite spendy and hard to find, but much more colorful! Hope that
helps. A good place to look to see how to tell the right kind of flying fox
to get is to go to http://www.azgardens.com/algae_eating_fish.php

Becky Hammond
White Fireweed Farm's
Freest Fancy Creations Aquarium Setup & Maintenance
6400 Baseline
Fairbanks, Alaska 99712
(907) 490-4464 or (907) 322-7588
hammond@...
www.whitefireweedfarm.com



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21800 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
If it is Ick you could add some aquarium salt and raise the temp in your tank ...what kind of fish do you have

Arindam Kar <arindkar@...> wrote: Hi All
>

Recently I have lost 2 fish in my planted tank and they had white spots on
their body and gill, I think its a fungus and I need help from you guys to
clean them up. Is there any home remedy I can use. The reason is the area I
stay there is no local shop who sells anti fungul medicines - I have to wait
a couple of days , so that they can bring it foe me..meanwhile can I try any
home made solution??

Arindam

>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21801 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
C. Saimensis (SAE), which like to school, get too big for a 15G tank... as
do most algae eaters.

What other fish do you have in the tank? Tell us more about your tank and
set up and what your lighting, fertilizing and substrate is like. There may
be something simple to impede the algae growth rather than adding more fish.

There are some people that will get a juvenile pleco's and arrange to bring
them back to the fish store every 6 months as they grow since they all get
too big for a 15G tank as well.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 4:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Black algae problem answer

Can Siamensis go with Otocinclus? My otos I think are lazy. I got 6 in a 15
gal tank. -------Original Message------- From: hammond@...
Date: 4/17/2007 10:08:34 PM To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Subject:
[AquaticLife] Black algae problem answer Hey Brian W. I have an answer to
your black algae problem. Try Siamensis. This is a particular type of
flying fox. They are GREAT, I keep them in most of my planted tanks and
they get large enough to handle angelfish, about 4-5 inches. They do love
to school, so I recommend atleast 3-5 of them. Another option I have heard
that eats it is the redline shark but they are quite spendy and hard to
find, but much more colorful! Hope that helps. A good place to look to see
how to tell the right kind of flying fox to get is to go to
http://www.azgardens.com/algae_eating_fish.php Becky Hammond White
Fireweed Farm's Freest Fancy Creations Aquarium Setup & Maintenance 6400
Baseline Fairbanks, Alaska 99712 (907) 490-4464 or (907) 322-7588
hammond@... www.whitefireweedfarm.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21802 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
tea tree oil, found in health and beauty supplies, also in bettafix or melafix

Arindam Kar <arindkar@...> wrote: Hi All
>

Recently I have lost 2 fish in my planted tank and they had white spots on
their body and gill, I think its a fungus and I need help from you guys to
clean them up. Is there any home remedy I can use. The reason is the area I
stay there is no local shop who sells anti fungul medicines - I have to wait
a couple of days , so that they can bring it foe me..meanwhile can I try any
home made solution??

Arindam

>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21803 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Really? Tea tree oil in an aquarium? That is so strong that it can
remove paint at full strength.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21804 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
mabey we are talking about diff things, tea tree oil to me = melaleuca. It is main ingrediant in melafix, also used in human antifungal skin treatments.

elementalclay@... wrote: Really? Tea tree oil in an aquarium? That is so strong that it can
remove paint at full strength.
Roxanne






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21805 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
actually, we are talking about same thing, Melafix bottle says "extracted from tea trees"

elementalclay@... wrote: Really? Tea tree oil in an aquarium? That is so strong that it can
remove paint at full strength.
Roxanne






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21806 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Hi Karen,
Yes, I am talking about malaeuca alternifolia.
<http://www.pfaf.org/database/plants.php?Melaleuca+alternifolia>
An extract is not necessarily the essential oil bit could be a water
extract of the leaf.
It's the tea tree oil that is terribly strong and I killed a snake
with it be accident trying to remove duct tape from it's body.
Oddly enough, I am not the only one that has killed a pet snake in
this manner.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21807 From: Karen M Smith Date: 4/18/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
I used it when I was breeding bettas a few years ago. My bettas occasionally had ilness and a friend from Thailand on a forum suggested the melaleuca. It worked very well for me but I have heard that it can be overdone. The bettas treated with melaleuca responded quickly and were very active during treatment. I think the key is small doses. Apparently larger doses are irritating to the gills.

elementalclay@... wrote: Hi Karen,
Yes, I am talking about malaeuca alternifolia.
<http://www.pfaf.org/database/plants.php?Melaleuca+alternifolia>
An extract is not necessarily the essential oil bit could be a water
extract of the leaf.
It's the tea tree oil that is terribly strong and I killed a snake
with it be accident trying to remove duct tape from it's body.
Oddly enough, I am not the only one that has killed a pet snake in
this manner.
Roxanne






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21808 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
Thnx for the help Fred, I have Black Ghost Fish, Angels and Zebra danio, and
loads of plant.
Arindam


On 18 Apr 2007 04:33:29 -0700, FRED W EISELSTEIN <1badmoe@...>
wrote:
>
> If it is Ick you could add some aquarium salt and raise the temp in your
> tank ...what kind of fish do you have
>
> Arindam Kar <arindkar@... <arindkar%40gmail.com>> wrote: Hi All
> >
>
> Recently I have lost 2 fish in my planted tank and they had white spots on
> their body and gill, I think its a fungus and I need help from you guys to
> clean them up. Is there any home remedy I can use. The reason is the area
> I
> stay there is no local shop who sells anti fungul medicines - I have to
> wait
> a couple of days , so that they can bring it foe me..meanwhile can I try
> any
> home made solution??
>
> Arindam
>
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21809 From: NHSNOLA Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
What kind of fish were they?

Were the white spots like grains of salt sprinkled on the fish? That could
be Ich which is a parasite, not a fungus.

Here is a site with lots of pictures of different illnesses that may help
you figure out what you have... http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html

Let us know which disease you think it is and we can help further.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21810 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus - help
I've used tea tree oil for years Just use 1/10 of what you would use for Melafix. But It really is best to use melafix if you can get it! (I do have it.) Sea salt helps too. It works better than non iodide table salt. Hope your fish get better soon, Gail


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
April 10% discount code is showers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21811 From: DAN Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Hello, I need advice about gravel in a new set up planted freshwater
aquarium.
I am about to set up a 12 gallon cube planted freshwater aquarium.
I wanted to use "natural" colored gravel but my wife wants blue and
green.
Now what I need to know is will a planted freshwater aquarium with
blue and green gravel look silly?
Is not using "natural" colored gravel a no-no?
Are there any pictures of planted aquariums with colored gravel?
Any opinion is welcome.
Thanks

Dan
Toledo Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21812 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Hi Dan,
I personally do not care for artifically colored stone in the aquarium
and did my 75 gallon bottom in agates. Lots of color but it looks very
natural.
Roxanne
Minnesota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21813 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
In my 10 gallon tank the only thing Im having a problem with is
ammonia. Its 1.0///Does that ammonia blocker make it have false
readings. Ive been putting prime in it everyday for the last couple of
days and last weekend we did a 75% water change. Nitrate and Nitrits
are 00. Ph is 7.5...What can I do about the ammonia? I have 3 mollys, 2
platys, 1 guppy and 3 babies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21814 From: iowakoi Date: 4/19/2007
Subject: Ever wondered how much energy your pump is using?
It's Spring and you maybe starting up or replacing equipments.
Here's just one of the many articles posted on
http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com>
All forum members receive a 10% off all products. Use the code showers
for April orders and Flowers for May orders. We have many, many, new
products for Spring including hardy lilies and plant supplies.
Calculate Monthly Operation Expenses.
The more efficient your pond pump the less
money it will cost to operate. Most pumps are rated in watts or amps.
Here are
the formulas for figuring the monthly operation expense of your pump:
If rated
in watts: Watts divided by 1000 times kWh (your kilowatt cost) x 24
hours per
day x 30 days per month. Watts/1000kWh x24x30
For example a pump that operates on 225 watts
would cost $13.77 per month to operate based on $0.085 per kWh
assuming the
pump is operated 24 hours per day, 30 days per month.
If rated in amps: Amps x Volts divided by 1000 x
kWh (your kilowatt cost) x 24 hours per day x 30 days per month.
A x V/1000x24x30 For example a pump that
operates on 4 amps would cost $28.15 per month to operate based on
$0.085 per
kWh assuming the pump is operated 24 hours per day, 30 days per month.
The kWh
is kilowatt per hour cost. You can figure out your kWh cost by
contacting your
local electric company or it is usually printed on your electric bill.
The initial cost of a pond pump is another factor to
consider. Don't be misled by a pumps high price. For example take a
look
at this comparison of two pond pumps: Pump "A" costs $149.99 and
operates on
350watts for 1800 gph. This pump costs $21.42 per month to operate.
Pump "B"
costs $189.99 and operates on 110watts for 1800gph. This pump costs
$6.73 per
month to operate. Purchasing Pump "B" will cost you an additional $40
initially but saves you $14.69 per month in utility expenses. Over an
average
life of four years, Pump "B" will save you $665.12!
Determine desired flow rate. The industry standard for
a pond pump is that it have a flow rate equal to a minimum of half of
your
pond's volume. So if you have a 2000 gallon pond then you would need a
1000
gallon per hour (gph) pump. We recommend, however, that you "turn"
your pond
water over once per hour. This means that if you have 2000 gallon pond
then
you would need a 2000gph pump. Basically, if you don't plan on keeping
fish in
your pond then you can use the first formula. If you do want fish then
we
would recommend the second formula. Another consideration when
choosing the
desired flow rate of your pump is to be sure that the flow will create
the
desired waterfall effect-should a waterfall be in your plan. To create
a
beautiful waterfall, you want 100gph minimum for every inch your
waterfall is
wide. If you are planning a 24" wide waterfall then you will want a
minimum of
2400gph.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21815 From: FRED W EISELSTEIN Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
It could ...you also may have a faulty tester too.... Ive run into that problem especially with the 5 in 1 tests. If you change like a couple gallons every week you will be fine ... the problem with doing a massive water change is you could cause your tank to cycle which means your ammonia will go up then turn into Nitrite (very bad) until enough good bacteria grow turning nitrite into nitrate (not as bad)..I have just a nitrite test..Since I do weekly water changes Ive never had a problem.. I have a 30 gallon with angelfish in it and 3 tanks of african cichlids...

memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote: In my 10 gallon tank the only thing Im having a problem with is
ammonia. Its 1.0///Does that ammonia blocker make it have false
readings. Ive been putting prime in it everyday for the last couple of
days and last weekend we did a 75% water change. Nitrate and Nitrits
are 00. Ph is 7.5...What can I do about the ammonia? I have 3 mollys, 2
platys, 1 guppy and 3 babies.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21816 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
It takes up to two months to cycle with fish... sometimes more if you do
anything that disrupts the growing nitrifying bacteria colonies (the good
bacteria). Prime does not eliminate ammonia, it only makes it less toxic
(or non-toxic). It is supposed to still allow the N-bacteria to consume the
ammonia and grow their proper sized colonies. There is no need to do 75%
PWC's. Just do 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia around 1ppm.

Here is a page with charts to show how ammonia toxicity is affected by pH
and temperature. http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html With a
7.5 pH, as long as your temp stays below 80F, 1ppm of ammonia will not be
toxic to your fish.

Read or re-read my page on filter maintenance so you do not mess up your
cycle by trashing the N-bacteria in your filters. Go to my blog in my sig
and then click on the right side link to filter cleaning & maintenance.

As long as you do not mess up your N-bacteria colonies, the ammonia eating
bacteria will eventually begin to grow and start converting the ammonia into
nitrites. Then you can use 0.1% salt to make the nitrites less toxic to
your fish but still do 25% PWC's to keep the nitrites below 1.0ppm until the
nitrite eating bacteria grow a proper sized colony. At that point you will
begin to see 0.0ppm ammonia and nitrite readings and start getting nitrate
readings. Nitrates are not very toxic and as long as you do 25% PWC's to
keep nitrates below 40.0ppm, you will be OK.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 9:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish

In my 10 gallon tank the only thing Im having a problem with is ammonia. Its
1.0///Does that ammonia blocker make it have false readings. Ive been
putting prime in it everyday for the last couple of days and last weekend we
did a 75% water change. Nitrate and Nitrits are 00. Ph is 7.5...What can I
do about the ammonia? I have 3 mollys, 2 platys, 1 guppy and 3 babies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21817 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: Black algae problem answer
I have kept them will ottos in tanks, but siamensis do get to large for a
15g. I would still put three in to clean up the tank, especially if you can
trade them out somewhere so they have a home when they grow. That is what I
do with them, but I also have a business maintaining tanks, so I can rotate
them. If I didn't have a place for them to go when they grow, hmm... I
would go with.... well..... I have a 30 gal at home with malyasian trumpet
snails, nerite olive snails, bristlenose, lots of different kinds of
miniature shrimp and I don't have any problem with black algae. These
plants are from tanks of mine that have had black algae. Usually I do keep
algae eating shrimp to, but haven't had any in their for awhile. Now
frequently when I set up a tank, of which I use plants from all my tanks, I
will have problems for awhile and then just put those guys in and they clean
it up within days! Why I don't have a problem with it, can't say for sure.
My guess is that the bulbs are old and their in not enough light. The
plants in that tank are not dying but not growing much either. I do not do
the regular water changes on that tank, nor do I fertilize it regularly. I
always keep a variety of critters in my aquariums that inhabit all areas of
the tank to create a complete ecosystem. Back to what I would do in your
situation if I couldn't use siamensis. Hmm... I would probably cut the
hours the light is on. Not enough to kill the live plants, but probably
enough that they wouldn't be growing a whole lot either. Pick off the black
algae as much as possible diligently. Once it stopped obviously growing, I
would slowly increase the light, continuing to pick off the algae as it
forms. Hopefully eventually once your plants really get established and
growing it will outcompete the algae. Some of my tanks do have a little bit
of hair algae at times on a few of the plants. I don't worry much about it,
I think it gives the tank a more natural look. I just make sure to keep it
in check, but once the tank is well established I find it just isn't a
problem. But.... I do keep siamensis in the tanks.

I use eco complete on most of my planted tanks, fertilize sparingly with
alternating fertilizers from foster and smith every two weeks when I do
atleast a 25percent water change. I do keep high light on my clients tanks,
but my 30 gal at home has all the reject lights, just two single strip flour
bulbs. I do not use CO2 in any of my tanks.

Hope this helps.



Becky Hammond
White Fireweed Farm's
Freest Fancy Creations Aquarium Setup & Maintenance
6400 Baseline
Fairbanks, Alaska 99712
(907) 490-4464 or (907) 322-7588
hammond@...
www.whitefireweedfarm.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21818 From: Memrie Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: breeding livebearers
I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10 gal
tank. It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any
clue...

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21819 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
SHOULD I PUT PRIME IN IT EVERYDAY?





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> It takes up to two months to cycle with fish... sometimes more if
you do
> anything that disrupts the growing nitrifying bacteria colonies
(the good
> bacteria). Prime does not eliminate ammonia, it only makes it less
toxic
> (or non-toxic). It is supposed to still allow the N-bacteria to
consume the
> ammonia and grow their proper sized colonies. There is no need to
do 75%
> PWC's. Just do 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia around 1ppm.
>
> Here is a page with charts to show how ammonia toxicity is affected
by pH
> and temperature.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html With a
> 7.5 pH, as long as your temp stays below 80F, 1ppm of ammonia will
not be
> toxic to your fish.
>
> Read or re-read my page on filter maintenance so you do not mess up
your
> cycle by trashing the N-bacteria in your filters. Go to my blog in
my sig
> and then click on the right side link to filter cleaning &
maintenance.
>
> As long as you do not mess up your N-bacteria colonies, the ammonia
eating
> bacteria will eventually begin to grow and start converting the
ammonia into
> nitrites. Then you can use 0.1% salt to make the nitrites less
toxic to
> your fish but still do 25% PWC's to keep the nitrites below 1.0ppm
until the
> nitrite eating bacteria grow a proper sized colony. At that point
you will
> begin to see 0.0ppm ammonia and nitrite readings and start getting
nitrate
> readings. Nitrates are not very toxic and as long as you do 25%
PWC's to
> keep nitrates below 40.0ppm, you will be OK.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 9:57 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with
6 fish
>
> In my 10 gallon tank the only thing Im having a problem with is
ammonia. Its
> 1.0///Does that ammonia blocker make it have false readings. Ive
been
> putting prime in it everyday for the last couple of days and last
weekend we
> did a 75% water change. Nitrate and Nitrits are 00. Ph is
7.5...What can I
> do about the ammonia? I have 3 mollys, 2 platys, 1 guppy and 3
babies.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21820 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/20/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
How will it look to you? You are only trying to satisfy yourself, and
maybe impress family and friends. If it were me, I'd not do it. If the
wife wanted it, well, dear, here is a tank--have fun.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of DAN
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 6:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater
aquarium

Hello, I need advice about gravel in a new set up planted freshwater
aquarium.
I am about to set up a 12 gallon cube planted freshwater aquarium.
I wanted to use "natural" colored gravel but my wife wants blue and
green.
Now what I need to know is will a planted freshwater aquarium with
blue and green gravel look silly?
Is not using "natural" colored gravel a no-no?
Are there any pictures of planted aquariums with colored gravel?
Any opinion is welcome.
Thanks

Dan
Toledo Ohio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21821 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: The pic of the front page
What a great aquarium it is! Whose tank is it? Is it glass or acrylic?

Ken
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21822 From: Arindam Kar Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
Dan

for plants to root properly the best is "Coarse River Sand", you can also
use commercially available subtrate of good quality. Personally I like and
use mixed bed of sand and natural coloured gravel for planed tanks and it
works best. Green and Blue grave might not highlight the FISH Colour as much
as the nutral colored natural gravel dose. If you plan to have FISH only
tank you can go for coloured gravel.

Arindam



On 4/20/07, DAN <mrwigglesworth@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I need advice about gravel in a new set up planted freshwater
> aquarium.
> I am about to set up a 12 gallon cube planted freshwater aquarium.
> I wanted to use "natural" colored gravel but my wife wants blue and
> green.
> Now what I need to know is will a planted freshwater aquarium with
> blue and green gravel look silly?
> Is not using "natural" colored gravel a no-no?
> Are there any pictures of planted aquariums with colored gravel?
> Any opinion is welcome.
> Thanks
>
> Dan
> Toledo Ohio
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21823 From: Alex See Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
glossostigma and dwarf hair grass, maybe?

On 4/21/07, Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10 gal
> tank. It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any
> clue...
>
> Mem
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish
What are the expiration dates on your reagents? Out of date, no dates, get rid of them and buy reagents that have not reached their expiration. This may require purchasing a kit or kits that do have expiration dates.

What type of reagent does the manufacturer of Prime suggest using to measure ammonia with the use of its product? The most common test kit reagent for ammonia is Nesslar. This may not work with ammonia converting products, and you may need to use the salicylate-type reagents to get a proper reading from your test kit.

If you need a new test kit, look around for the AquaTru line. I believe they are the best kits around for several reasons. First, the design of the vials uses two chambers, one for the actual test, and another for water from the aquarium through which you view the color chart. This is of great help should your water not be perfectly transparent (and few tanks have such water) because the color is much easier to match properly. Second, all the reagents are stamped with an expiration date. Third, the reagents are powdered reagents which come prepackaged in small packets of the correct amount to use for a test. It is hard to go wrong with these tests.

The only ammonia remover I have used for many years is now distributed by Hikari (http://www.hikariusa.com). It may be worth looking for.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ammonia in my month old 10 gallon tank with 6 fish

In my 10 gallon tank the only thing Im having a problem with is
ammonia. Its 1.0///Does that ammonia blocker make it have false
readings. Ive been putting prime in it everyday for the last couple of
days and last weekend we did a 75% water change. Nitrate and Nitrits
are 00. Ph is 7.5...What can I do about the ammonia? I have 3 mollys, 2
platys, 1 guppy and 3 babies.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21825 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
I agree that a natural looking substrate would be better but here are some
sites with lots of pictures that you and your better half can look over and
maybe come up with something you both like.

http://www.aquariumdesigngroup.com/#mi=1&pt=0&pi=11011&p=-1&a=0&at=0 - click
on the Galleries links and there are five categories to browse through.

http://visual35.tripod.com/amano.html - has a few dozen pictures of Amano
tanks.

http://www.nbat.nl/aquarium4/keuringgezel/keuringgezel03.html - foreign
language site but pictures of award winning tanks.

http://www.aquabotanic.com/aquascapingprincipals.html - click on the
Galleries link for pictures.

I hope these help... and there's no charge for the marriage counseling or
the savings on attorney fees. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21826 From: Aaron Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: The pic of the front page
~ * The tank that Jack built
the UK's largest private aquarium holds 18,160 l./ 4000 gal.

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
article_id=586

(if that link breaks you can find it at the bottom of the links
section)

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links

I also added 3 pictures to the Photos section

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/5d91



The viewing wall is is made up of four 25mm glass panels held within
a steel frame. The steel is 100 x 100mm/4' x 4' and goes deep within
the brickwork on either side.

The actual viewing space is 304 x 213cm/10' x 7' wide, much larger
than most tanks, but bear in mind that at its widest point, it is
also over 365cm/12' from front to back.

The inner brick walls are lined in polystyrene, then plywood, then
fibreglass.


It is 381 x 388 x 213cm/12' x 12' x 7' deep and is of the same size
and footprint as his living room which is immediately above it.



(above are excerpts from the article which can be read in full here -

http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
article_id=586

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pond_watcher"
<sleepless_viewer@...> wrote:
>
> What a great aquarium it is! Whose tank is it? Is it glass or
acrylic?
>
> Ken
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21827 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Microscope Imaging Station
Some of you may find this site of interest.

Microscope Imaging Station [Macromedia Flash Player]
http://www.exploratorium.edu/imaging_station/index.html

The Exploratorium in San Francisco continue to break new and intriguing
ground with their latest online project, the Microscope Imaging Station.
The actual physical Station resides at their museum, and was opened in
2004. Developed to complement this interactive exhibit, this online
manifestation of the Station allows visitors to peer into the cells of
living organisms such as sea urchins and zebrafish. The sea urchin
feature is a real treat, as it is accompanied by a well-written essay on
how this spiky creature may help unlock the secrets of genes,
reproduction, and cancer. If that wasn't enough, the essay (as with
other features on the site) includes a short video clip. The "Gallery"
is definitely worth a stop as well. Here, visitors will find a wide
range of high-resolution images and movies created with research-grade
microscopes. Watching cells move, the fertilization process and the
world of mitosis is a rather nice way to spend a few minutes, and
visitors will probably want to pass the site along to friends and
family.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2007.
http://scout.wisc.edu/

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21828 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Koi breeders and goldfish breeders use mats like you describe. You may want to check out some of the sites catering to those people for such mats.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 6:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers

I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10 gal
tank. It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any
clue...

Mem



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21829 From: hammond@mosquitonet.com Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
I have a few tanks that are live planted that have colored gravel. I
begrudgly created them as my clients wanted them either to keep costs down
to convert to live or because they like it. I actually have come to not
mind it!!! Used to be a purest about natural!!!

Becky Hammond
White Fireweed Farm's
Freest Fancy Creations Aquarium Setup & Maintenance
6400 Baseline
Fairbanks, Alaska 99712
(907) 490-4464 or (907) 322-7588
hammond@...
www.whitefireweedfarm.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21830 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
What about one of the new astro-turf products used in sports that is longer
like real grass? I've never thought about it before but I guess it could
work as a substrate. If you have a domed stadium in your area, ask the
field keeper if they have some and get you a small piece. I'm sure they
have small pieces the use for patches when needed.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers

Koi breeders and goldfish breeders use mats like you describe. You may want
to check out some of the sites catering to those people for such mats.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 6:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers

I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10 gal tank.
It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any clue...

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21831 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: ick...
Hi All,

I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite
and the fish are the host but where does it come from?
Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in
one tank but it only hit one fish. It was after I added
some guppies that all died. I didn't see anything wrong
with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the
betta that was in there died also. He had visible signs
of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp
treatments but it was too late. Are guppies more inclined
to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
a little high but I think that's from adding too many
fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have
been too old. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas
because I don't want it to happen again. The tank is now
empty of fish and just running the filter.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21832 From: angel Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
One Word.



S T R E S S !!



Lol. Ihave 11 tanks and have not had ick in over a year now. (Knock on wood)
When I did get it I cranked the heater and put a small glass of salt in and
that was all she wrote. LOL



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...



Hi All,

I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite
and the fish are the host but where does it come from?
Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in
one tank but it only hit one fish. It was after I added
some guppies that all died. I didn't see anything wrong
with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the
betta that was in there died also. He had visible signs
of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp
treatments but it was too late. Are guppies more inclined
to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
a little high but I think that's from adding too many
fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have
been too old. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas
because I don't want it to happen again. The tank is now
empty of fish and just running the filter.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21833 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Ich, as you mention, is a parasite. I have not seen any work that
discusses the actual source of the parasite, but it does seem to be
present in every tank. If you observe carefully, you may see it coming
in as a cyst on one or more of your fish. It may also be hidden in gill
tissue and, therefore not visible. It has also been suggested that it
may come in on plants or other objects that are added to the aquarium.

For the most part, even though it is present, it is not a problem. You
may see one or more fishes with a cyst or two at any given time, but if
the fish is healthy, it poses no problems. Outbreaks of ich are often
associated with a drop in temperature, a chilling of the tank, or
another stressor on the fish which weakens them allowing the ich to get
a firmer foothold on the fish. The short life cycle of the parasite
helps here. At a "normal" water temperature for fish, the life cycle is
7 days, plus or minus a few if the temperature is warmer or cooler.

If you were having an ammonia problem, and your tank had higher pH--i.e.
over 7.0, the ammonia becomes increasingly toxic to the fish as the pH
level increases. Quite possibly what happened is that the guppies may
have already harbored the parasite. This is a good example of the worth
of a quarantine tank, where new arrivals are kept for a period of 14-21
days to ensure they are not bringing in disease or parasites to an
established tank. You have now experienced one of the worst possible
outcomes of a lack of quarantine.

I think you'll have to chalk this up to experience, and resolve to do
better in the future. We all hate to lose fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...

Hi All,

I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite
and the fish are the host but where does it come from?
Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in
one tank but it only hit one fish. It was after I added
some guppies that all died. I didn't see anything wrong
with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the
betta that was in there died also. He had visible signs
of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp
treatments but it was too late. Are guppies more inclined
to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
a little high but I think that's from adding too many
fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have
been too old. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas
because I don't want it to happen again. The tank is now
empty of fish and just running the filter.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21834 From: Memrie Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
thanks steve

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Koi breeders and goldfish breeders use mats like you describe. You
may want to check out some of the sites catering to those people for
such mats.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 6:18 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers
>
> I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10
gal
> tank. It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any
> clue...
>
> Mem
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21835 From: Memrie Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
Sounds like a winner, except, no domed arenas here.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> What about one of the new astro-turf products used in sports that
is longer
> like real grass? I've never thought about it before but I guess it
could
> work as a substrate. If you have a domed stadium in your area, ask
the
> field keeper if they have some and get you a small piece. I'm sure
they
> have small pieces the use for patches when needed.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:31 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers
>
> Koi breeders and goldfish breeders use mats like you describe. You
may want
> to check out some of the sites catering to those people for such
mats.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 6:18 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers
>
> I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10
gal tank.
> It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any clue...
>
> Mem
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21836 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
I was wondering if its possible or even a good idea to filter the water
when I do a 25% water change and then put the same water back in there.
The tank is a month old. When you clean the tank do you have to take
out the live plants?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21837 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
There are lots of theories on this. Some say it's in all aquaria. Some say
it has to be introduced by something.. fish, plants, etc.

One theory I have is that it is an internal parasite in some or all fish,
that is dormant or managed by the fishes immune system or other pathogens
but under certain conditions, usually stress caused by drastic temperature
changes (but other stressors which lowers the fishes immune system can also
start an Ich cycle), and then the ich parasite multiplies, is excreted by
the fish and becomes active in the water column. This is just a theory I
have from reading all of the forum posts and threads and internet articles
on the topic.

In the cases you mention, it was the addition of new fish that either
brought in the parasite or the new fish were stressed or stressed out the
existing fish which caused the outbreak.

Using a quarantine tank for several weeks to a month and then properly and
slowly acclimating fish seems to lessen the stress effects. Keeping the
tanks clean and maintained and properly cycled also helps. I always do the
drip acclimation method for new fish into an empty tank or Q-tank and so
far, I've never had an Ich outbreak. Knock on wood! :-D

Just running your tank and filter with no source of ammonia will cause it to
lose all of the N-bacteria so you will have to re-cycle the tank before
adding new fish. You can do this with a fishless cycle or using Bio-Spira
or using healthy cycled filter media or substrate from another tank. If you
still have detritus in your gravel, then it will continue to break down and
put off ammonia which will keep the filter partially cycled but I'm not sure
how long that will last.

What did you/they do to treat the Ich? This will tell us how long you need
to wait before adding fish again.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 2:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...

Hi All,

I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite and the fish are the
host but where does it come from?
Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in one tank but it only
hit one fish. It was after I added some guppies that all died. I didn't see
anything wrong with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine had
the same thing happen to her tank. She added some guppies and they all died
within 5 days and then the betta that was in there died also. He had visible
signs of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp treatments but
it was too late. Are guppies more inclined to carry it? The water conditions
were fine. Ammonia was a little high but I think that's from adding too many
fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have been too old. I was
just wondering if anyone had any ideas because I don't want it to happen
again. The tank is now empty of fish and just running the filter.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21838 From: EAR Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
I don't as the filter containes beneficial elements.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21839 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/21/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
Use the removed water on your garden or house plants and put in new
water to replace that which has been removed. No need to displace your
aquarium plants. If you are using a gravel vacuum, which you should. Be
gentle around the plants in the tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon

I was wondering if its possible or even a good idea to filter the water
when I do a 25% water change and then put the same water back in there.
The tank is a month old. When you clean the tank do you have to take
out the live plants?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21840 From: Donna Ransome Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon
I’d say not a good idea because the reason you are taking the water out is
to get the Nitrates out. Filters don’t remove Nitrates.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon



I was wondering if its possible or even a good idea to filter the water
when I do a 25% water change and then put the same water back in there.
The tank is a month old. When you clean the tank do you have to take
out the live plants?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21841 From: Mr I'm So Cool Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Ouch, Thats Hot!
It's lucky that i haven't been keeping many fish in my tank (only 4 in
a 250L) for the last year, because the heater has seriously
malfunctioned. I noticed it as a brushed past the tank; it was quite
warm, 38 degrees Celsius in fact!
Surprisingly I have only lost one fish. I have turned the heater off
and will have to buy another tomorrow.
Anyone else had this happen to them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21842 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Back in the day it happened more often, but now, it seems to be only an
affliction with the cheap heaters, though I would not put it past one of
the solid state heaters to eventually fail.

By my rough reckoning, you have a 65 gallon tank. To help prevent such a
thing from happening again, you would probably want to buy 2 75 watt
heaters instead of one 150 watt heater. Should one of the heaters fail
(not turn on) the other will keep the tank at a reasonable temperature
until you replace the failed heater. Should it fail by not turning off,
as yours just has, it will not have enough output to appreciably raise
the temperature beyond a reasonable level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Mr I'm So Cool
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 9:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ouch, Thats Hot!

It's lucky that i haven't been keeping many fish in my tank (only 4 in
a 250L) for the last year, because the heater has seriously
malfunctioned. I noticed it as a brushed past the tank; it was quite
warm, 38 degrees Celsius in fact!
Surprisingly I have only lost one fish. I have turned the heater off
and will have to buy another tomorrow.
Anyone else had this happen to them?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21843 From: akdsl1 Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: ammonia again in my 3 week old tank
I had the same problem, could not get ammonia from .02 back to 0.
There are four reasons for this happening.

1. Do not over feed.
2. Do not over feed.
3. Do not over feed.
4. All the above........

I was feeding my fish twice a day, as soon as I cut feeding back to
once a day my ammonia problem went away.

I have a 120 gallon fresh water, one adult marble angle, seven adult
tiger barbs, six giant danos, one pearl geramius, a VERY large pleco,
and two one year old clown loaches. Water temp 77 degrees, ph 7.2,
ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate about 10 parts per million. Full
cleaning once a month (gravel vaccium, clean algie, 25 percent water
cycle, clean all three filters, new filter media once every two months.)

This is how feeding fish as explained to me by my local marine
bioagist, the fishes stomacks are only about as big as their eyes are
or alittle smaller. Feed them with that in mind, and it has worked for
me since.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> I had the ammonia completely out but its .02 again. Ive put prime in it
> and its not coming down. What can I do? Why would it go back up.? I
> have mollys, guppies and platys in there. Its a 10 gallon.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21844 From: harry perry Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon/Filters
There is such a thing as too clean. Once a tank is cycled the bacteria that keeps it that way resides in your filter, substrate, water and on your plants. The reason for the weekly water change is to ensure that fish waste,dead plants etc. nutrients and minerals don't build to such a point that it causes problems.

The reason for only 30% is if you keep the tank too clean you will cause it to be in a constant state of cycle. More problems. You will also be removing the minerals that your plants need to be healthy.

When you do a water change it is best not to disturb the substrate and there is no reason to disrupt the plants.

What works is the goal of a balanced tank.The proper amount of fish with plants to help use up nutrients and you removing the excess.

So, what we have is a cycled 10 gallon with live plants. A 25% to 30% water change once a week. Change the filter medium once a month or go longer. Feed the fish once a day or every other day would be better.

One of my ten gallons doesn't have a filter ( I never use air stones). The tank is my grow out tank for plants. It houses 8 Galaxy Rasbora. I feed bbs only, no flake food. Note !!!! do not do this for now but I don't do water changes.

The water is crystal clear with no algae at all. If I add fish I'll add plants.

The fish are small, the tank is heavily planted, I don't overfeed. Uneaten flake food is algae food.

Harry

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: I’d say not a good idea because the reason you are taking the water out is
to get the Nitrates out. Filters don’t remove Nitrates.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 8:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon

I was wondering if its possible or even a good idea to filter the water
when I do a 25% water change and then put the same water back in there.
The tank is a month old. When you clean the tank do you have to take
out the live plants?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21845 From: Memrie Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: A difficult birth
Yesterday, one of my platies was
not eating nor acting right. I got down on my knees to watch her. I
noticed she had an orange bubble protruding from her bottom and that
there was a huge bulge there. Cool labor right? But I could tell
something was not right. I gentle coaxed her into a huge net I use
to seperate fishies from time to time and put in some java moss. I
also watched from a distance as she struggled, panting and not really
moving. Every once in a while you could see movement at that end but
no dropping of fry. After about 2 hours like that, one finally did
drop, but the yellow protrusion remained. She droped 7 or 8 very
small fry (they died rather quickly) before the protrusion was gone.
It was then that I noticed that it was an underdeveloped fry still in
the yolk sac. Over the next 30 or so min she dropped another 30 or
40 like that each getting more enclosed in the yolk sac. The sad
part is after the birthing, I took a very close look at her. The
pressure (?) caused bleeding in the head area. This morning she is
mia. I am going to have to search for her in the tank. Strange as
the only thing in tank is breeding grass. Any suggestions as to what
would have caused this occurance? Or just chalk it up to a bad
birth? I know that they can happen. I am not sure putting her in
the net would have caused the problem as she was already showing
major signs of distress and other fish were attacking her.

Thanks guys and gals.

mem

BTW, why would fish come up to the surface and get air that bubbles
out of thier gills?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21846 From: EAR Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: A difficult birth
My platy died during birth recently and I think we do have to chaulk it up to "unfortunate". I was lucky to save the 4 fry she gave birth to.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21847 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
I've not seen any valid evidence of the ich parasite being internal to
the fish, other than sometimes invading the gill tissue, which may be
also argued is not internal but external


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] ick...

There are lots of theories on this. Some say it's in all aquaria. Some
say
it has to be introduced by something.. fish, plants, etc.

One theory I have is that it is an internal parasite in some or all
fish,
that is dormant or managed by the fishes immune system or other
pathogens
but under certain conditions, usually stress caused by drastic
temperature
changes (but other stressors which lowers the fishes immune system can
also
start an Ich cycle), and then the ich parasite multiplies, is excreted
by
the fish and becomes active in the water column. This is just a theory
I
have from reading all of the forum posts and threads and internet
articles
on the topic.

In the cases you mention, it was the addition of new fish that either
brought in the parasite or the new fish were stressed or stressed out
the
existing fish which caused the outbreak.

Using a quarantine tank for several weeks to a month and then properly
and
slowly acclimating fish seems to lessen the stress effects. Keeping the
tanks clean and maintained and properly cycled also helps. I always do
the
drip acclimation method for new fish into an empty tank or Q-tank and so
far, I've never had an Ich outbreak. Knock on wood! :-D

Just running your tank and filter with no source of ammonia will cause
it to
lose all of the N-bacteria so you will have to re-cycle the tank before
adding new fish. You can do this with a fishless cycle or using
Bio-Spira
or using healthy cycled filter media or substrate from another tank. If
you
still have detritus in your gravel, then it will continue to break down
and
put off ammonia which will keep the filter partially cycled but I'm not
sure
how long that will last.

What did you/they do to treat the Ich? This will tell us how long you
need
to wait before adding fish again.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be
to
use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files
and
folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 2:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...

Hi All,

I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite and the fish are
the
host but where does it come from?
Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in one tank but it
only
hit one fish. It was after I added some guppies that all died. I didn't
see
anything wrong with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
had
the same thing happen to her tank. She added some guppies and they all
died
within 5 days and then the betta that was in there died also. He had
visible
signs of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp treatments
but
it was too late. Are guppies more inclined to carry it? The water
conditions
were fine. Ammonia was a little high but I think that's from adding too
many
fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have been too old. I
was
just wondering if anyone had any ideas because I don't want it to happen
again. The tank is now empty of fish and just running the filter.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21848 From: Linda Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Koi Pond Newbie
Good morning

I just purchased a house with a 3000 gallon koi pond. The previous
owners basically told me he feeds them twice a day with a handful of
"pond pearls" and here is the pump switch which he doesn't run too
often. Ok so now that I have a "clear picture of what I'm supposed to
do - I don't even know where to begin...There are five beautiful koi
in the pond, each at least a 12-14" inch length. I've been reading
some of the posts about changing the filters and I'm just wondering
where to begin to figure out where these are in this pond, which BTW
is a nice murky green color. I am on the eastern half of the US here
on long island where we have been experiencing major mood swings by
mother nature as far as temperature the past few weeks.

I guess what I'm looking for is suggestions as to what to start with
first after I complete moving in which will be at the end of this week...
I've been reading articles but I guess my disadvantage is not knowing
the layout of the pond itself

Thank you for any tidbits you can provide...I look forward to any
suggestions and these fish are beautiful and I don't want them to be
harmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21849 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: filtering the water in a 10 gallon
I just vacuum the substrate around my plants lightly and then do the rest
deeply.

Filtering the tank water with what? There is more to why we do regular 25%
PWC's than just filtering the water. We are adding trace elements and
minerals back to the tank that get used up by the fish and plants and need
to be replenished. For example, my tap water baseline KH is 7 but my tank
will get down to 3-4 between my regular weekly PWC's. There are many other
minerals and trace elements in your source water that get depleted as well
if you do not replenish them with frequent PWC's.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos and
files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most important
files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 7:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] filtering the water in a 10 gallon

I was wondering if its possible or even a good idea to filter the water when
I do a 25% water change and then put the same water back in there.
The tank is a month old. When you clean the tank do you have to take out the
live plants?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21850 From: pond_watcher Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: The pic of the front page
Thanks for the info, and kudos to Jack. Like he says, building a tank
underground is a good idea.

Ken

PS: I guess it is fun to swim with the fish. I wish I could with
mine.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Aaron" <massagetherapist@...>
wrote:
>
> ~ * The tank that Jack built
> the UK's largest private aquarium holds 18,160 l./ 4000 gal.
>
> http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
> article_id=586
>
> (if that link breaks you can find it at the bottom of the links
> section)
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links
>
> I also added 3 pictures to the Photos section
>
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/5d91
>
>
>
> The viewing wall is is made up of four 25mm glass panels held
within
> a steel frame. The steel is 100 x 100mm/4' x 4' and goes deep
within
> the brickwork on either side.
>
> The actual viewing space is 304 x 213cm/10' x 7' wide, much larger
> than most tanks, but bear in mind that at its widest point, it is
> also over 365cm/12' from front to back.
>
> The inner brick walls are lined in polystyrene, then plywood, then
> fibreglass.
>
>
> It is 381 x 388 x 213cm/12' x 12' x 7' deep and is of the same
size
> and footprint as his living room which is immediately above it.
>
>
>
> (above are excerpts from the article which can be read in full
here -
>
> http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?
> article_id=586
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pond_watcher"
> <sleepless_viewer@> wrote:
> >
> > What a great aquarium it is! Whose tank is it? Is it glass or
> acrylic?
> >
> > Ken
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21851 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
I think you need to get another heater ASAP and slowly lower the temp by 2F
per day. If the temp decreases too fast, you could end up with Ich.

We've discussed this happening before. I think one of the best things to do
is get two smaller heaters rather than one full size heater. If one of them
fail, which will eventually happen, in either the on or off position, it
will not cause any extreme changes. Set both heaters at the same temp and
adjust them so they both want to turn on and off at the same time. This
seems to be the hardest part.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21852 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: lenny on yahoo messenger i cant my other email to come up so
go to yahoo messenger----dctn_2005
email dctn_2005@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21853 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/22/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
First, do not feed the fish until the water temperature has reached 55°F. The fish will not be able to digest any food that is ingested until the water reaches approximately this temperature. The first foods for the spring should be those that are high in fiber. Many keepers use foods with wheat germ in them at this time of year.

Try to figure out the plumbing now. Turn the pump on, and you'll know where the pump is and where the outlet is. Filtration can occur on either side of the pump. Determine where the inlet or inlets are, and then you can try to trace the water flow, and find if there is a filter--there should be in this size pond with that mass of fish. The pump should be running 24/7, especially if there is a filter in the circuit.

Green water is very common at this time of year in ponds of all types, ornamental to natural. If you have the proper filtration, the green water should not last very long, no more than a few weeks.

If you do not have a filter, you will need to get one. You can build one yourself, or use a commercially offered one. You will need one that will both filter particulate matter (mechanical) and do biological filtration. There are any number of plans and offerings on the web, just search for some of the koi sites that are out there, and take a look at what they have to say.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Linda
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 10:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi Pond Newbie

Good morning

I just purchased a house with a 3000 gallon koi pond. The previous
owners basically told me he feeds them twice a day with a handful of
"pond pearls" and here is the pump switch which he doesn't run too
often. Ok so now that I have a "clear picture of what I'm supposed to
do - I don't even know where to begin...There are five beautiful koi
in the pond, each at least a 12-14" inch length. I've been reading
some of the posts about changing the filters and I'm just wondering
where to begin to figure out where these are in this pond, which BTW
is a nice murky green color. I am on the eastern half of the US here
on long island where we have been experiencing major mood swings by
mother nature as far as temperature the past few weeks.

I guess what I'm looking for is suggestions as to what to start with
first after I complete moving in which will be at the end of this week...
I've been reading articles but I guess my disadvantage is not knowing
the layout of the pond itself

Thank you for any tidbits you can provide...I look forward to any
suggestions and these fish are beautiful and I don't want them to be
harmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21854 From: Linda Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
Thank you so much - I will look into the plumbing more in the next
week - I saw the pump it looks like its connected, but I thought I
should see some sort of water movement and I don't see any - I found a
filter in the garage which looks like it has two inlet ports (might be
the wrong terminology) and I found a pool skimmer as well which I am
assuming was perhaps used to skim the pond...It looks like htere is
tubing set up so water runs down the rocks but so far I see nothing
happening - I am going to take a few pictures of it once I'm settled in

Have a great rest of the day

Linda

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> First, do not feed the fish until the water temperature has reached
55°F. The fish will not be able to digest any food that is ingested
until the water reaches approximately this temperature. The first
foods for the spring should be those that are high in fiber. Many
keepers use foods with wheat germ in them at this time of year.
>
> Try to figure out the plumbing now. Turn the pump on, and you'll
know where the pump is and where the outlet is. Filtration can occur
on either side of the pump. Determine where the inlet or inlets are,
and then you can try to trace the water flow, and find if there is a
filter--there should be in this size pond with that mass of fish. The
pump should be running 24/7, especially if there is a filter in the
circuit.
>
> Green water is very common at this time of year in ponds of all
types, ornamental to natural. If you have the proper filtration, the
green water should not last very long, no more than a few weeks.
>
> If you do not have a filter, you will need to get one. You can build
one yourself, or use a commercially offered one. You will need one
that will both filter particulate matter (mechanical) and do
biological filtration. There are any number of plans and offerings on
the web, just search for some of the koi sites that are out there, and
take a look at what they have to say.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Linda
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 10:12 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi Pond Newbie
>
> Good morning
>
> I just purchased a house with a 3000 gallon koi pond. The previous
> owners basically told me he feeds them twice a day with a handful of
> "pond pearls" and here is the pump switch which he doesn't run too
> often. Ok so now that I have a "clear picture of what I'm supposed to
> do - I don't even know where to begin...There are five beautiful koi
> in the pond, each at least a 12-14" inch length. I've been reading
> some of the posts about changing the filters and I'm just wondering
> where to begin to figure out where these are in this pond, which BTW
> is a nice murky green color. I am on the eastern half of the US here
> on long island where we have been experiencing major mood swings by
> mother nature as far as temperature the past few weeks.
>
> I guess what I'm looking for is suggestions as to what to start with
> first after I complete moving in which will be at the end of this
week...
> I've been reading articles but I guess my disadvantage is not knowing
> the layout of the pond itself
>
> Thank you for any tidbits you can provide...I look forward to any
> suggestions and these fish are beautiful and I don't want them to be
> harmed
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21855 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: breeding livebearers
You could check with your local hardware/lumber supply they sometimes have pieces of the astro turf that are odd sizes marked down in prices.

Shannon

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Sounds like a winner, except, no domed arenas here.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> What about one of the new astro-turf products used in sports that
is longer
> like real grass? I've never thought about it before but I guess it
could
> work as a substrate. If you have a domed stadium in your area, ask
the
> field keeper if they have some and get you a small piece. I'm sure
they
> have small pieces the use for patches when needed.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and
files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important
files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 9:31 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers
>
> Koi breeders and goldfish breeders use mats like you describe. You
may want
> to check out some of the sites catering to those people for such
mats.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 6:18 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] breeding livebearers
>
> I am looking for a mat of some sorts to cover the bottom of a 10
gal tank.
> It would have to be about the length of breeder grass. any clue...
>
> Mem
>






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21856 From: Ash Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Ouch, Thats Hot!
Thanks for the reply. Buying 2 heaters seems a logical idea, but ive already purchased 1 300W heater that seemed of very sturdy design. Actually i was suprised my previous heater lasted as long as it did, its had water in it for at least 2 years!
I also purchased a dosen goldfish while i was there, so my oscars have something to nibble on...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21857 From: ronno971 Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Hey Steve,

There is one thing I never understood about a quarantine tank. If
one of the major causes of illness or disease in fish is stress, and
the fish is stressed when you bring it home, isn't letting it
acclimate in a quarantine tank just to remove it to your main tank
stressing the fish out and just starting the process of possible
illness all over again?

Just curious.

Thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ich, as you mention, is a parasite. I have not seen any work that
> discusses the actual source of the parasite, but it does seem to be
> present in every tank. If you observe carefully, you may see it
coming
> in as a cyst on one or more of your fish. It may also be hidden in
gill
> tissue and, therefore not visible. It has also been suggested that
it
> may come in on plants or other objects that are added to the
aquarium.
>
> For the most part, even though it is present, it is not a problem.
You
> may see one or more fishes with a cyst or two at any given time,
but if
> the fish is healthy, it poses no problems. Outbreaks of ich are
often
> associated with a drop in temperature, a chilling of the tank, or
> another stressor on the fish which weakens them allowing the ich
to get
> a firmer foothold on the fish. The short life cycle of the parasite
> helps here. At a "normal" water temperature for fish, the life
cycle is
> 7 days, plus or minus a few if the temperature is warmer or
cooler.
>
> If you were having an ammonia problem, and your tank had higher pH-
-i.e.
> over 7.0, the ammonia becomes increasingly toxic to the fish as
the pH
> level increases. Quite possibly what happened is that the guppies
may
> have already harbored the parasite. This is a good example of the
worth
> of a quarantine tank, where new arrivals are kept for a period of
14-21
> days to ensure they are not bringing in disease or parasites to an
> established tank. You have now experienced one of the worst
possible
> outcomes of a lack of quarantine.
>
> I think you'll have to chalk this up to experience, and resolve to
do
> better in the future. We all hate to lose fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite
> and the fish are the host but where does it come from?
> Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in
> one tank but it only hit one fish. It was after I added
> some guppies that all died. I didn't see anything wrong
> with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
> had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
> guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the
> betta that was in there died also. He had visible signs
> of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp
> treatments but it was too late. Are guppies more inclined
> to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
> a little high but I think that's from adding too many
> fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
> Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have
> been too old. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas
> because I don't want it to happen again. The tank is now
> empty of fish and just running the filter.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21858 From: Memrie Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Any clue?
my yellow two bar started not acting right this morning. The other
platy I could write off to the birth but this I am clueless on. My
yellow two bar would not eat this morning just sorta floated there.
She started to develop red streaks under the skin on one side of her.
Sorta like a bruise. Any clues? No one else is acting sick and all
are eating well. I can't give water parameters as I haven't gotten to
the store yet. I will get those tomorrow.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21859 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
The purpose if a quarantine tank is to help make sure that you don't
introduce diseases into your main tank. If you buy a sick fish would
you not rather loose one fish than the whole tank. If you put the
new fish in the quarantine tank for a few weeks then you can
hopefully make sure that the new fish is not sick and cause all of
your fish in the main tank to get sick.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ronno971" <ronno971@...> wrote:
>
> Hey Steve,
>
> There is one thing I never understood about a quarantine tank. If
> one of the major causes of illness or disease in fish is stress,
and
> the fish is stressed when you bring it home, isn't letting it
> acclimate in a quarantine tank just to remove it to your main tank
> stressing the fish out and just starting the process of possible
> illness all over again?
>
> Just curious.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21860 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: Koi Pond Newbie
Being on Long Island, you might want to check out the LIAS at http://www.liasonline.org/ and attend some of their meetings. You will likely find some pond people there that can help you out. There must be a pond group out there as well, but I don't know of any (I'm not from that area any time recently, and things change--some of the older people may know me).

If the pump has been sitting out there all winter and not running, you may have a problem with the pump and need to rebuild it or replace it. Before you do that, you'll need to find the inlet and make sure it is under water. If it is no, you'll not pump any no matter how hard the pump tries <g>. It could be pumping water and dumping it where the filter is supposed to go inline--a good recipe for a soggy yard and an empty pond.

If the filter has a name on it, you may be able to go online and find the manufacturer's web site and get a manual of sorts for it. What you consider to be two inlets is probably an inlet and an outlet. And it does matter which is which.

You should probably invest in a good pond book to help you. I am fond of the ones written by Frances Perry, but there are a number of good ones out there. You'll want to look for one that covers all the basics thoroughly, and is directed toward koi keeping.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Linda
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 9:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Koi Pond Newbie

Thank you so much - I will look into the plumbing more in the next
week - I saw the pump it looks like its connected, but I thought I
should see some sort of water movement and I don't see any - I found a
filter in the garage which looks like it has two inlet ports (might be
the wrong terminology) and I found a pool skimmer as well which I am
assuming was perhaps used to skim the pond...It looks like htere is
tubing set up so water runs down the rocks but so far I see nothing
happening - I am going to take a few pictures of it once I'm settled in

Have a great rest of the day

Linda

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> First, do not feed the fish until the water temperature has reached
55°F. The fish will not be able to digest any food that is ingested
until the water reaches approximately this temperature. The first
foods for the spring should be those that are high in fiber. Many
keepers use foods with wheat germ in them at this time of year.
>
> Try to figure out the plumbing now. Turn the pump on, and you'll
know where the pump is and where the outlet is. Filtration can occur
on either side of the pump. Determine where the inlet or inlets are,
and then you can try to trace the water flow, and find if there is a
filter--there should be in this size pond with that mass of fish. The
pump should be running 24/7, especially if there is a filter in the
circuit.
>
> Green water is very common at this time of year in ponds of all
types, ornamental to natural. If you have the proper filtration, the
green water should not last very long, no more than a few weeks.
>
> If you do not have a filter, you will need to get one. You can build
one yourself, or use a commercially offered one. You will need one
that will both filter particulate matter (mechanical) and do
biological filtration. There are any number of plans and offerings on
the web, just search for some of the koi sites that are out there, and
take a look at what they have to say.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Linda
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 10:12 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Koi Pond Newbie
>
> Good morning
>
> I just purchased a house with a 3000 gallon koi pond. The previous
> owners basically told me he feeds them twice a day with a handful of
> "pond pearls" and here is the pump switch which he doesn't run too
> often. Ok so now that I have a "clear picture of what I'm supposed to
> do - I don't even know where to begin...There are five beautiful koi
> in the pond, each at least a 12-14" inch length. I've been reading
> some of the posts about changing the filters and I'm just wondering
> where to begin to figure out where these are in this pond, which BTW
> is a nice murky green color. I am on the eastern half of the US here
> on long island where we have been experiencing major mood swings by
> mother nature as far as temperature the past few weeks.
>
> I guess what I'm looking for is suggestions as to what to start with
> first after I complete moving in which will be at the end of this
week...
> I've been reading articles but I guess my disadvantage is not knowing
> the layout of the pond itself
>
> Thank you for any tidbits you can provide...I look forward to any
> suggestions and these fish are beautiful and I don't want them to be
> harmed
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21861 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
The water parameters in the quarantine tank are more likely to be closer
to your display tank or other tank you will be putting the fish into.
The temperature is likely to be no more than a couple of degrees
different. The pH will be no more than a point or two off. There is much
less stress in then transferring the fish, and much les danger of your
current fish being infected by something brought in by the new fish.

Of course, there is always the danger that the quarantine tank can
become the new fish's permanent home, and you start a series of species
tanks <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ronno971
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 2:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ick...

Hey Steve,

There is one thing I never understood about a quarantine tank. If
one of the major causes of illness or disease in fish is stress, and
the fish is stressed when you bring it home, isn't letting it
acclimate in a quarantine tank just to remove it to your main tank
stressing the fish out and just starting the process of possible
illness all over again?

Just curious.

Thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ich, as you mention, is a parasite. I have not seen any work that
> discusses the actual source of the parasite, but it does seem to be
> present in every tank. If you observe carefully, you may see it
coming
> in as a cyst on one or more of your fish. It may also be hidden in
gill
> tissue and, therefore not visible. It has also been suggested that
it
> may come in on plants or other objects that are added to the
aquarium.
>
> For the most part, even though it is present, it is not a problem.
You
> may see one or more fishes with a cyst or two at any given time,
but if
> the fish is healthy, it poses no problems. Outbreaks of ich are
often
> associated with a drop in temperature, a chilling of the tank, or
> another stressor on the fish which weakens them allowing the ich
to get
> a firmer foothold on the fish. The short life cycle of the parasite
> helps here. At a "normal" water temperature for fish, the life
cycle is
> 7 days, plus or minus a few if the temperature is warmer or
cooler.
>
> If you were having an ammonia problem, and your tank had higher pH-
-i.e.
> over 7.0, the ammonia becomes increasingly toxic to the fish as
the pH
> level increases. Quite possibly what happened is that the guppies
may
> have already harbored the parasite. This is a good example of the
worth
> of a quarantine tank, where new arrivals are kept for a period of
14-21
> days to ensure they are not bringing in disease or parasites to an
> established tank. You have now experienced one of the worst
possible
> outcomes of a lack of quarantine.
>
> I think you'll have to chalk this up to experience, and resolve to
do
> better in the future. We all hate to lose fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite
> and the fish are the host but where does it come from?
> Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in
> one tank but it only hit one fish. It was after I added
> some guppies that all died. I didn't see anything wrong
> with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine
> had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
> guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the
> betta that was in there died also. He had visible signs
> of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp
> treatments but it was too late. Are guppies more inclined
> to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
> a little high but I think that's from adding too many
> fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
> Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have
> been too old. I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas
> because I don't want it to happen again. The tank is now
> empty of fish and just running the filter.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21862 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/23/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
Simply netting a fish and moving it is nothing compared to the rigors it
went through up until it ended up in your Q-tank.

You should slowly acclimate the fish from the fish store or mail order water
to your Q-tank and while that is stressful, once it's in your Q-tank, at
least it will be getting use to your water parameters and your Q-tank should
be much better than anything it has lived in up until that point in it's
life... unless it was wild caught.

Then, in the few days before the planned move to the community tank, I
always do a few 25% PWC's on my main tank and Q-tank so their water
parameters are nearly identical. And then I add some of the main tank water
to the Q-tank to be even more certain. Then when moving the fish, it's just
a quick dip and move... nothing compared to being severely overstocked in
the fish store or breeding facility, then being shipped in a plastic bag
with a little water in it.

I know many people do not use Q-tanks but then I also read all of the horror
stories in this and other forums where people lose their entire community
tank to some disease because they didn't use a Q-tank. It's not worth the
risk to me since a 10G Q-tank and HOB filter can be set up for $20.00 or
less.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

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https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
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-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ronno971
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 1:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ick...

Hey Steve,

There is one thing I never understood about a quarantine tank. If one of the
major causes of illness or disease in fish is stress, and the fish is
stressed when you bring it home, isn't letting it acclimate in a quarantine
tank just to remove it to your main tank stressing the fish out and just
starting the process of possible illness all over again?

Just curious.

Thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Ich, as you mention, is a parasite. I have not seen any work that
> discusses the actual source of the parasite, but it does seem to be
> present in every tank. If you observe carefully, you may see it
coming
> in as a cyst on one or more of your fish. It may also be hidden in
gill
> tissue and, therefore not visible. It has also been suggested that
it
> may come in on plants or other objects that are added to the
aquarium.
>
> For the most part, even though it is present, it is not a problem.
You
> may see one or more fishes with a cyst or two at any given time,
but if
> the fish is healthy, it poses no problems. Outbreaks of ich are
often
> associated with a drop in temperature, a chilling of the tank, or
> another stressor on the fish which weakens them allowing the ich
to get
> a firmer foothold on the fish. The short life cycle of the parasite
> helps here. At a "normal" water temperature for fish, the life
cycle is
> 7 days, plus or minus a few if the temperature is warmer or
cooler.
>
> If you were having an ammonia problem, and your tank had higher pH-
-i.e.
> over 7.0, the ammonia becomes increasingly toxic to the fish as
the pH
> level increases. Quite possibly what happened is that the guppies
may
> have already harbored the parasite. This is a good example of the
worth
> of a quarantine tank, where new arrivals are kept for a period of
14-21
> days to ensure they are not bringing in disease or parasites to an
> established tank. You have now experienced one of the worst
possible
> outcomes of a lack of quarantine.
>
> I think you'll have to chalk this up to experience, and resolve to
do
> better in the future. We all hate to lose fish.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 3:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite and the fish
> are the host but where does it come from?
> Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in one tank but it
> only hit one fish. It was after I added some guppies that all died. I
> didn't see anything wrong with them though. I am asking because a
> friend of mine had the same thing happen to her tank. She added some
> guppies and they all died within 5 days and then the betta that was in
> there died also. He had visible signs of it at the end and we started
> the salt and water temp treatments but it was too late. Are guppies
> more inclined to carry it? The water conditions were fine. Ammonia was
> a little high but I think that's from adding too many fish at once.
> The tank has been set up for over a year.
> Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have been too old.
> I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas because I don't want it
> to happen again. The tank is now empty of fish and just running the
> filter.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.5.9/773 - Release Date: 4/22/2007
8:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21863 From: Subeer (Josh) Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Hi everyone..
Hi all

My name is Subeer.
I am 27 years old.
I live in the Arabian Peninsula (Qatar).
I work with a Joint Venture project here.

I am interested in aquaculture, perhaps at a later stage would do something in it, but for now I am just learning from the dialogues going on here.

Hope to get to know people here, over time.

Take care
Subeer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21864 From: susan Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Hello, I am new to the group, Just wanted to say Hi :)
My name is susan and Iam from Michigan in the United states. I have a
55 gallon tank with blood parrot,anglefish,tetras,clown loaches,coolie
loach. I thought the guy named jack with the huge tank was a pretty
cool pic! I like how he has to get inside to clean his tank! lol
susan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21865 From: susan Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Q: about blood parrots, any experts here?!!!! Susan/Michigan-USA
I have 3 blood parrots. Rocky, Bumper & Sunshine :) Have had them for a
while. Noticed that they are the only ones in my 55 gallon whose gills
move fairly fast. Almost like panting. No body else in the tank does it
or has ever done it but them. I went back to the store where I got them
and all of theirs are doing it to. I have only seen 2 that have not
done this and they were adult. Mine are still juveniles. One is orange
(little black left) the other slowly gaining more orange, and bumper he
is still pretty dark. But they pant. why? is this normal? Do yours do
it too?
Susan/ Michigan, United States
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21866 From: quietari Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Hi everyone..
Hooray and welcome from half way across the world!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Subeer \(Josh\)"
<mohamed420_2000@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all
>
> My name is Subeer.
> I am 27 years old.
> I live in the Arabian Peninsula (Qatar).
> I work with a Joint Venture project here.
>
> I am interested in aquaculture, perhaps at a later stage would do
something in it, but for now I am just learning from the dialogues
going on here.
>
> Hope to get to know people here, over time.
>
> Take care
> Subeer
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21867 From: quietari Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Gravel in a new set up planted freshwater aquarium
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "DAN" <mrwigglesworth@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I need advice about gravel in a new set up planted freshwater
> aquarium.
> I am about to set up a 12 gallon cube planted freshwater aquarium.
> I wanted to use "natural" colored gravel but my wife wants blue and
> green.
> Now what I need to know is will a planted freshwater aquarium with
> blue and green gravel look silly?
> Is not using "natural" colored gravel a no-no?
> Are there any pictures of planted aquariums with colored gravel?
> Any opinion is welcome.
> Thanks
>
> Dan
> Toledo Ohio
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21868 From: Roxanne Brown Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Parrot's Feather
I am looking at growing this plant in my fry tank for red claw crayfish.
Does anyone have experience with growing this with low light?
Also, is there a protocol on this list if one wishes to purchase from another member?
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21869 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
I have only grown it as a pond plant, and it is a real weed. I do have a
suspicion that it does need a goodly amount of light, like other thin
leaved plants. I had brought some in for use in a half barrel tub
garden, and it more or less wasted away under the lower levels of light
found indoors.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Roxanne Brown
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 9:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Parrot's Feather

I am looking at growing this plant in my fry tank for red claw
crayfish.
Does anyone have experience with growing this with low light?
Also, is there a protocol on this list if one wishes to purchase from
another member?
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21870 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Hiya Steve,
Thanks for your reply and results for growing parrot's feather in low
light.
You saved me time and money.
I might want to try it in the outdoor pool that will get more light.
I've been researching wild rice seed and found a couple of sources but
found that it has to be kept damp and stratified to be viable.
Maybe I should try putting some light for plants at the opposite end
of the tank where the red claw like to hang out.
It would be a lot better if I had a clue as to what I am doing.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21871 From: bmt1brain Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: butterfly koi
Hi, I have a butterfly koi, I have had him just about a year now. I
woke up this morning and his fins and tail were all red. Does anybody
have any ideas what to do with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21872 From: Aaron Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Hi Roxanne,

I have just the 1 male and will not be breeding (as they are not
legal here), so I do not know if the requirements are more strict for
proper breeding conditions as opposed to just keepimg the 1 as a
unique pet.

I have Java Moss and Java Ferns growing on the Driftwood - 1 piece is
a hollow log with a branch, he spends most his time hanging out under
and in the log and occasionally I see him on the upright branch
trying to push off the tank cover to go for a walk-about. He gathers
the loose clumps of moss and seems to be eating or cleaning it 1
strand at a time.

There are also floating plants - hornwort, anachris and Water
Wisteria in the tank. The Wisteria grows above the water line as well
and it does have a (weak) root system, so it could be planted in the
gravel - however, he really likes to borrow and rearange the rocks
and wood decorations, so planting is pointless.

It is a 30gallon with a 55watt compact flourescent (1.83 wpg) - so I
consider that low light - and the plants are growing great.

I see Steve answered your Parrot's Feather question.

I'm not aware of a formal protocol for anything on here and I am one
of the Moderators. The only thing we don't like is spam, all else is
welcomed.

Hope that Helps,
Aaron

p.s. I just uploaded 10 new photos I took of him earlier tonight.
They are in the Album * ~ Giant Australian Red Claw




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Roxanne Brown"
<elementalclay@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking at growing this plant in my fry tank for red claw
crayfish.
> Does anyone have experience with growing this with low light?
> Also, is there a protocol on this list if one wishes to purchase
from another member?
> Thanks,
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21873 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 4/24/2007
Subject: Re: Parrot's Feather
Hi Aaron,
It gets so cold here that red claws would die so they are legal. I
have one male, two females and a youngster that I cannot determine.
I need clean water but have to mimic murky water for breeding so only
the front of the tank is open for light to come in.
I'm thinking about some kind of floating 'something' I would plant
watercress on as the seed I put in the tank sprouted okay.
The reason I asked about buying from members is twofold. I have that
option on other lists I am on unrelated to aquatics and I prefer to
support list members with my money because most of us could always use a
few extra dollars to put back into what we enjoy.
Thank you for your response and I hope learn enough in the next year
or so to give back to this list.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21874 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: butterfly koi
What is your reading for ammonia? Nitrite? pH? This condition sounds
similar to the blood streaking goldfish get when water conditions are
not correct.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bmt1brain
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] butterfly koi

Hi, I have a butterfly koi, I have had him just about a year now. I
woke up this morning and his fins and tail were all red. Does anybody
have any ideas what to do with this.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21875 From: jules27au Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Cat Fish
Hi Everyone,

I have a catfish, whilst looking beautiful & living nicely with other
members of my community tropical tank, does not suck the algae from the
inside of the tank.

Can I introduce another catfish that will eat the algae & still keep my
existing catter, or do I need to find a new home before I introduce a
algae eating catter.

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21876 From: DAN Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Substrate for a planted aquarium
Hello all.
Will small gravel 2" deep be a good substrate for a new planted
aquarium?
Do I need a bed of sand under the substrate for the roots to start in?
The aquarium is a 15" x 15" cube.
How would you set up the substrate.
Any advice would be great!
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21877 From: Chad Plum Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: butterfly koi
sounds like this fish is getting burnt. Have you had a lot of rainfall ?
I would do a water change it could be lack of oxegny

bmt1brain <bmt1brain@...> wrote:
Hi, I have a butterfly koi, I have had him just about a year now. I
woke up this morning and his fins and tail were all red. Does anybody
have any ideas what to do with this.






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21878 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
hi i wonder if anyone can help. in the last few days i have lost 4
fish. they were 2 platys and 2 guppys. they were all fine together
up till then, but obviously there is a killer fish in my tank
somewhere. i removed some boisterous fish thinking it was them but
still the killing and fin nipping continues. who can it be, i do not
want anymore unessesary deaths or maiming to take place!, in my tank
i now have.. white clouds, neon tetras, rummy nosed tetras, platys,
guppie (only one left which now has half a tail!) 2 x clown laches,
koolie loach, glass catfish,baloon mollies, angel fish one normal
and one veil tail,dwarf gourami, and pearl gourami, and 2 algie
eaters sucker fish, silver shark (small). and thats about it.my tank
is 4 foot, so big enough.as i say except the white clouds i got at
the weekend the rest have been in the tank together for weeks and
killing started just before the white coluds came. i took out and
put in another tank a sail fin mollie(thought it was him but
obviously not) also took out siameese fighting fish (not him either)
and also 2 plain mollies and some red eyed tetras, none of them did
it either by the looks of it! its like playing cluedo! if anyone
could give me a clue as to who it might be that would be great, i do
sit and watch them to try and catch the culprit but the killing
seems to take place and night when i switch the tank light off!
thanks everyone :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21879 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
It would help to know what kind you currently have. Some catfish are
aggressive to conspecifics or similar looking species. If you have no idea
what it is, post a picture in the groups photo album and give us a link to
your posted pic.

Tell us more about the rest of your tank too. Size of tank, other fish,
type of water, your fish keeping experience, etc.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cat Fish

Hi Everyone,

I have a catfish, whilst looking beautiful & living nicely with other
members of my community tropical tank, does not suck the algae from the
inside of the tank.

Can I introduce another catfish that will eat the algae & still keep my
existing catter, or do I need to find a new home before I introduce a algae
eating catter.

Jules

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21880 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
I'm afraid your tank is not big enough for your current stocking and the
overcrowding is a likely cause of the aggressiveness in your tank.

A 4' tank could be a 55G or maybe even up to a 70G but you can figure it out
with this formula.. LxWxH divided by 231 = gallons.

Go to http://fish.mongabay.com, use the search field and read over the
profiles of each of your fish. Pay particular attention to species
compatibility and water parameter requirements for each fish and then decide
how many other tanks you will need and how to divide up your fish.

If your "2 algae eaters sucker fish" are common plecos, one needs at least a
75G tank and a larger tank for two of them. They should grow to 18"+. They
are nocturnal and if they are not getting enough to eat, you are lucky if
only a few fins are missing. They've been known to eat other fish if they
are hungry enough.

Your two clown loaches should each grow to 20" and should be kept in schools
of five or more meaning they should be in at least a 100G+ tank.

White clouds are cold water fish. The angelfish and gouramis can both be
aggressive to smaller fish. I'm sure there are other issues but you need to
read up on each of your fish.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of azariamum1
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!

hi i wonder if anyone can help. in the last few days i have lost 4 fish.
they were 2 platys and 2 guppys. they were all fine together up till then,
but obviously there is a killer fish in my tank somewhere. i removed some
boisterous fish thinking it was them but still the killing and fin nipping
continues. who can it be, i do not want anymore unessesary deaths or maiming
to take place!, in my tank i now have.. white clouds, neon tetras, rummy
nosed tetras, platys, guppie (only one left which now has half a tail!) 2 x
clown laches, koolie loach, glass catfish,baloon mollies, angel fish one
normal and one veil tail,dwarf gourami, and pearl gourami, and 2 algie
eaters sucker fish, silver shark (small). and thats about it.my tank is 4
foot, so big enough.as i say except the white clouds i got at the weekend
the rest have been in the tank together for weeks and killing started just
before the white coluds came. i took out and put in another tank a sail fin
mollie(thought it was him but obviously not) also took out siameese fighting
fish (not him either) and also 2 plain mollies and some red eyed tetras,
none of them did it either by the looks of it! its like playing cluedo! if
anyone could give me a clue as to who it might be that would be great, i do
sit and watch them to try and catch the culprit but the killing seems to
take place and night when i switch the tank light off!
thanks everyone :-)

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21881 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Substrate for a planted aquarium
Here's a pretty good page that discusses the different substrates.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_substrate.htm

Here's a little more reading on setting up a planted tank. Come back here
with any questions you may have.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_newtank.htm

Will you be having fish or critters also? If so, what kind?

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of DAN
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Substrate for a planted aquarium

Hello all.
Will small gravel 2" deep be a good substrate for a new planted aquarium?
Do I need a bed of sand under the substrate for the roots to start in?
The aquarium is a 15" x 15" cube.
How would you set up the substrate.
Any advice would be great!
Thanks

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21882 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
In a message dated 4/25/2007 11:46:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

A 4' tank could be a 55G or maybe even up to a 70G



Standard 4' All Glass tank sizes are 33L, 40L, 55, 75, 90 and 120 gallons.

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21883 From: Jessica Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
I agree with Lenny. It seems that you have too many fish in your
tank. Without knowing your tank information, that's the best guess I
can give. Do a little more research on each of your fish and see what
type they are (ie, aggressive, semi-agressive, docile) and separate
them accordingly. Also, certain fish need hidey holes and others need
a lot of room to roam. I have a saltwater set-up and my clown fish
need a hidey hole and my lionfish needs room to roam. I'm lucky
enough to have a lionfish that doesn't bother my clowns, normally they
would eat them. Do some reasearch and see what you have is the first
step.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21884 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: ick...
I didn't really get a chance to help much. I had her
do a partial water change and add salt to it but the
temp didn't even get raised because they died so fast.
She said I could have the tank as a quarantine tank.
I might try it although I already have 5 tanks and no
more room. Well, I have the big space I'm saving to
set up a large aquarium. Right now my smaller tanks
are all fully stocked so I won't be adding any and I
don't know if my friend will either. Her daughter was
really upset. I see the need for a q-tank now though.
Too bad so many were lost... Thanks for the help!

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> There are lots of theories on this. Some say it's in all aquaria. Some say
> it has to be introduced by something.. fish, plants, etc.
>
> One theory I have is that it is an internal parasite in some or all fish,
> that is dormant or managed by the fishes immune system or other pathogens
> but under certain conditions, usually stress caused by drastic temperature
> changes (but other stressors which lowers the fishes immune system can also
> start an Ich cycle), and then the ich parasite multiplies, is excreted by
> the fish and becomes active in the water column. This is just a theory I
> have from reading all of the forum posts and threads and internet articles
> on the topic.
>
> In the cases you mention, it was the addition of new fish that either
> brought in the parasite or the new fish were stressed or stressed out the
> existing fish which caused the outbreak.
>
> Using a quarantine tank for several weeks to a month and then properly and
> slowly acclimating fish seems to lessen the stress effects. Keeping the
> tanks clean and maintained and properly cycled also helps. I always do the
> drip acclimation method for new fish into an empty tank or Q-tank and so
> far, I've never had an Ich outbreak. Knock on wood! :-D
>
> Just running your tank and filter with no source of ammonia will cause it to
> lose all of the N-bacteria so you will have to re-cycle the tank before
> adding new fish. You can do this with a fishless cycle or using Bio-Spira
> or using healthy cycled filter media or substrate from another tank. If you
> still have detritus in your gravel, then it will continue to break down and
> put off ammonia which will keep the filter partially cycled but I'm not sure
> how long that will last.
>
> What did you/they do to treat the Ich? This will tell us how long you need
> to wait before adding fish again.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online backup of your documents, photos and files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
> use the Mozy backup system. It will back up your most important files and
> folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 2:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ick...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was wondering what causes ick? I know it's a parasite and the fish are the
> host but where does it come from?
> Is it caused by poor water conditions? I've had it in one tank but it only
> hit one fish. It was after I added some guppies that all died. I didn't see
> anything wrong with them though. I am asking because a friend of mine had
> the same thing happen to her tank. She added some guppies and they all died
> within 5 days and then the betta that was in there died also. He had visible
> signs of it at the end and we started the salt and water temp treatments but
> it was too late. Are guppies more inclined to carry it? The water conditions
> were fine. Ammonia was a little high but I think that's from adding too many
> fish at once. The tank has been set up for over a year.
> Maybe that's why the betta didn't make it. He might have been too old. I was
> just wondering if anyone had any ideas because I don't want it to happen
> again. The tank is now empty of fish and just running the filter.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21885 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
I was just being illustrative, which is why I asked for measurements. The
most common 4' tanks are the 55G to 75G (although I did type 70G) with the
most common being the 55G. Remember that 33L and 40L could be
misinterpreted for liters so it's always good to type out "Long" when
talking about them... but "tanks" for the info. :-D

I have a 65G with a 48"x18" footprint. It would be hell trying to do
maintenance or have plants in a 120G 4' tank that would probably be around
36" high unless it's a cube type design.

Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21886 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
There are all kinds of catfish. There are all kinds of algae. Not all
catfish eat algae. Of those catfish that do eat algae, they do not eat
all algae.

First, you need to determine what kind of catfish you have. Once you
have done that, it is easy enough to know whether this fish will eat
algae. If you have a catfish that does eat algae, it may only eat a
specific type of algae, or even, a specific species of algae. Others are
more flexible, and will eat many kinds of algae.

As Lenny mentioned, if you do not know the catfish you currently have,
post a picture of it in the files section or on a web site, and tell us
how to reach it so we can try to determine the catfish you have. Once
that has been done, we can be far more helpful.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cat Fish

Hi Everyone,

I have a catfish, whilst looking beautiful & living nicely with other
members of my community tropical tank, does not suck the algae from the
inside of the tank.

Can I introduce another catfish that will eat the algae & still keep my
existing catter, or do I need to find a new home before I introduce a
algae eating catter.

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21887 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
In a message dated 4/25/2007 7:42:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

It would be hell trying to do
maintenance or have plants in a 120G 4' tank that would probably be around
36" high unless it's a cube type design.



It is 48x24x24. It is actually a REALLY neat tank and looks great either as
a planted FW or a SW reef. :)

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21888 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
hi thanks for your messages ive measured my tank which is aprox
120cm long 54cm high and 38 cm wide. im still trying to work out the
galons and litres. i asked about all the fish i have each time i
bought one to make sure they were all peaceful and suitable for a
comunity tank and was told yes every time. each time i went i
explained which fish i already had and i was told it would be fine.
i have gone to around 4 different fish shops and each said it would
be ok. the algae eaters sound like they could maybe be the ones. i
did ask in the shop and was told they are really peaceful and dont
atack other fish, unless there isnt enough algae, so maybe thats it-
i will have to put them in another tank and see what happens in
regaurds to the killing!.ive done a lot of reading in books
regurading my fish before i bought them to check they get on and all
the books said they are fine for a comunity tank, so not sure what
happened.anyways everyone for you help :-)

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I was just being illustrative, which is why I asked for
measurements. The
> most common 4' tanks are the 55G to 75G (although I did type 70G)
with the
> most common being the 55G. Remember that 33L and 40L could be
> misinterpreted for liters so it's always good to type out "Long"
when
> talking about them... but "tanks" for the info. :-D
>
> I have a 65G with a 48"x18" footprint. It would be hell trying to
do
> maintenance or have plants in a 120G 4' tank that would probably
be around
> 36" high unless it's a cube type design.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21889 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21890 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Kiesha,

Why would you give dimensions for the tank when it isn't your tank?

The original poster replied that... "ive measured my tank which is aprox
120cm long 54cm high and 38 cm wide", which translates in inches to 47.2 x
21.3 x 15 divided by 231 = 65.3 gallons... not 120G.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of crawmerk@...
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!


In a message dated 4/25/2007 7:42:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> writes:

It would be hell trying to do
maintenance or have plants in a 120G 4' tank that would probably be around
36" high unless it's a cube type design.

It is 48x24x24. It is actually a REALLY neat tank and looks great either as
a planted FW or a SW reef. :)

Kiesha

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21891 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
In a message dated 4/25/2007 8:56:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Why would you give dimensions for the tank when it isn't your tank?




I was giving the dimensions for a 4' 120 gallon All Glass tank. I was
responding to your statement estimating the height of a 4' 120 as 36". I thought I
made that clear as I included the portion of your quote that I was responding
to. ;)

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21892 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: lenny are you online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21893 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
#21889 From: "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
memphisgirl39
Send IM
Send Email
The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21894 From: Memrie Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
you need to do a pwc asap. That is a very high ammonia reading. Be
sure and use the declorinater when adding new water. Also, you are not
cycled, no where near it.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> #21889 From: "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
> Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
> Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks
ago
> memphisgirl39
> Send IM
> Send Email
> The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
> nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
> lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21895 From: harry perry Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
I wouldn't add any more chemicals. Try a 30% water change, let stand for 24 hours and test again. Let us know. The tank sounds like it is recycling. 75% cleaned? water change? Why?

Harry

memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote: #21889 From: "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
memphisgirl39
Send IM
Send Email
The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21896 From: Karen Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going
through a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along
than just elevated ammonia.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21897 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
-What I did was took 50% if the water out. I didnt vacuum and put
regular water back in it but then put prime in it again and cyle. The
temp now is 75...ammonia 1.0.....no nitrates or nitrites. Does that
sound good?






-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> you need to do a pwc asap. That is a very high ammonia reading.
Be
> sure and use the declorinater when adding new water. Also, you are
not
> cycled, no where near it.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > #21889 From: "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
> > Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks
> ago
> > memphisgirl39
> > Send IM
> > Send Email
> > The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites
and o
> > nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it
ammo
> > lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21898 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Ya 2 weeks ago my daughter vaccummed 75 % out of it. Should she not
have vacuumed it.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Karen" <kmsmith90@...> wrote:
>
> Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going
> through a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along
> than just elevated ammonia.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21899 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
My x my daughters dad has aquariums and has had them for years. She
thought that was she was suppose to do. Should she do anything this
weekend.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I wouldn't add any more chemicals. Try a 30% water change, let
stand for 24 hours and test again. Let us know. The tank sounds like
it is recycling. 75% cleaned? water change? Why?
>
> Harry
>
> memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...>
wrote: #21889 From: "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@...>
> Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
> Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks
ago
> memphisgirl39
> Send IM
> Send Email
> The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites
and o
> nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
> lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21900 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: I did the 50% water change
What I did was took 50% if the water out. I didnt vacuum and put
regular water back in it but then put prime in it again and cyle. The
temp now is 75...ammonia 1.0.....no nitrates or nitrites. Does that
sound good?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21901 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Are you noticing ripped fins and other injuries on fish that are still
living? Have only the dead fish shown signs of ripped fins and injury?

If it is the latter, then it is most likely happening after the fish has
died--not an uncommon occurrence.

If it is the former, my immediate suspects would be the angel fish and
the gouramis. Closer observation of your fish will likely lead you to
the culprit(s) who are doing the damage.

I would concur with Lenny that the tank is overcrowded. The white clouds
should be moved to their own, unheated tank. They will do much better
with the cooler temperature, and they will show their colors better. I'd
also separate the other fish by water conditions. You have a number of
fish that like soft acid water, and several that like a harder, more
alkaline environment. There are also some fish in there that will do
well in either environment.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of azariamum1
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 10:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!

hi i wonder if anyone can help. in the last few days i have lost 4
fish. they were 2 platys and 2 guppys. they were all fine together
up till then, but obviously there is a killer fish in my tank
somewhere. i removed some boisterous fish thinking it was them but
still the killing and fin nipping continues. who can it be, i do not
want anymore unessesary deaths or maiming to take place!, in my tank
i now have.. white clouds, neon tetras, rummy nosed tetras, platys,
guppie (only one left which now has half a tail!) 2 x clown laches,
koolie loach, glass catfish,baloon mollies, angel fish one normal
and one veil tail,dwarf gourami, and pearl gourami, and 2 algie
eaters sucker fish, silver shark (small). and thats about it.my tank
is 4 foot, so big enough.as i say except the white clouds i got at
the weekend the rest have been in the tank together for weeks and
killing started just before the white coluds came. i took out and
put in another tank a sail fin mollie(thought it was him but
obviously not) also took out siameese fighting fish (not him either)
and also 2 plain mollies and some red eyed tetras, none of them did
it either by the looks of it! its like playing cluedo! if anyone
could give me a clue as to who it might be that would be great, i do
sit and watch them to try and catch the culprit but the killing
seems to take place and night when i switch the tank light off!
thanks everyone :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21902 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: I do have real plants in there
This weekend should it be vaccumed since I just took 50% of the water
out.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21903 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
I read all the messages in the thread before replying to this one. First, do not mix your chemicals. While Prime claims to handle the ammonia for you, it is apparently not working, since, while you lowered the amount of ammonia, you still appear to have ammonia present, according to your test kit. One reason could be that your test kit is not compatible with Prime. Another could be that you are not using Prime per directions. If neither is true, Prime does not live up to its advertising. As I have mentioned before, Hikari is distributing the only ammonia de-toxifier that I know works. Look for their products and choose the correct one for your water. They have a few to choose from.

A very important factor is that your reagents in your ammonia test kit be compatible with the conditioner you are using. Please double check this.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago

The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21904 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
I never have a problem cleaning the gravel when cycling a tank. Why
would one have a problem?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 10:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE

Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going
through a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along
than just elevated ammonia.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21905 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
-
Do you think the prime just isnt working.




-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I never have a problem cleaning the gravel when cycling a tank. Why
> would one have a problem?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Karen
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 10:13 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
>
> Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going
> through a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along
> than just elevated ammonia.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21906 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
If I used too much prime would it make it not work


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I read all the messages in the thread before replying to this one.
First, do not mix your chemicals. While Prime claims to handle the
ammonia for you, it is apparently not working, since, while you
lowered the amount of ammonia, you still appear to have ammonia
present, according to your test kit. One reason could be that your
test kit is not compatible with Prime. Another could be that you are
not using Prime per directions. If neither is true, Prime does not
live up to its advertising. As I have mentioned before, Hikari is
distributing the only ammonia de-toxifier that I know works. Look for
their products and choose the correct one for your water. They have a
few to choose from.
>
> A very important factor is that your reagents in your ammonia test
kit be compatible with the conditioner you are using. Please double
check this.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:56 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75%
cleaned 2 wks ago
>
> The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and
o
> nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
> lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21907 From: Larry Nave Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Is this tank cycled????? Ammonia should be zero and nitrites should be zero....and nitrates should have a reading.....Ammonia and nitrites are deadly....to fish. Ammonlock ties up the ammonia....so hopefully that will not be toxic....
Larry
Karen and Larry
l.nave(at)comcast.net
Lefty,Indy,Molly and fish

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21908 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/25/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
-No its not cycled.Ive just had it for a month. The fish look great
thou. Ive put prime and cyle in it. Would putting ammonlock hurt
putting that into it too?


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Nave" <l.nave@...> wrote:
>
> Is this tank cycled????? Ammonia should be zero and nitrites should
be zero....and nitrates should have a reading.....Ammonia and nitrites
are deadly....to fish. Ammonlock ties up the ammonia....so hopefully
that will not be toxic....
> Larry
> Karen and Larry
> l.nave(at)comcast.net
> Lefty,Indy,Molly and fish
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21909 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
I did lose 1 platy.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -No its not cycled.Ive just had it for a month. The fish look
great
> thou. Ive put prime and cyle in it. Would putting ammonlock hurt
> putting that into it too?
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Nave" <l.nave@> wrote:
> >
> > Is this tank cycled????? Ammonia should be zero and nitrites
should
> be zero....and nitrates should have a reading.....Ammonia and
nitrites
> are deadly....to fish. Ammonlock ties up the ammonia....so
hopefully
> that will not be toxic....
> > Larry
> > Karen and Larry
> > l.nave(at)comcast.net
> > Lefty,Indy,Molly and fish
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21910 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
It's OK to disturb the gravel. The nitrifying bacteria live on the surface
of the gravel and are sticky enough so that you can vacuum your gravel well
and deep and not cause a major issue. It is better to have as little
detritus as possible in your gravel. Decaying detritus (and the bacteria
breaking it down) puts out CO2, raises your nitrates, lowers O2, utilizes KH
which can cause pH issues... and detritus is a haven for BAD bacteria as
well. It's better to remove it rather than leave it to decay. I vacuum my
entire tank bottom on a weekly basis with absolutely no "cycling" issues
caused by it. Besides, the overwhelming majority of the N-bacteria reside
in the filter media.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Karen
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE

Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going through
a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along than just
elevated ammonia.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21911 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!
Your measurements translate in inches to 47.2 x 21.3 x 15 divided by 231 =
65.3 gallons. I'm sorry but your tank is smaller than you thought it was
which makes things even more tough for your fish. I'm also sorry that your
local fish stores are giving you such horrible advice but it is a common
problem with so many fish stores and/or their employees. They are the
reason that groups like this exist to fix the problems that they cause.
Most of us have been in the same situation as you due to bad advice from a
fish store or pet store employee.

For the most part, fish do usually get along but in an undersized or
overstocked tank, behavior can change as their instincts to survive kick in.
Certain fish will try to eliminate the competition for food and space as
part of that survival instinct. Also, water quality will usually suffer
causing stress and disease issues that will kill some of the fish.

At this point, it is important for you to identify your fish and the ones
that get really big, like the clown loaches and common plecos, should be
rehomed ASAP since your tank is not big enough for them anyhow. Hopefully
the stores that sold them to you will give you a refund or store credit that
you can use for other supplies as needed. Then you can use
http://fish.mongabay.com or other reputable profile sites to reassess your
remaining fish and decide which ones you can safely keep long term.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of azariamum1
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Who is the killer and the fin nipper!!!!

hi thanks for your messages ive measured my tank which is aprox 120cm long
54cm high and 38 cm wide. im still trying to work out the galons and litres.
i asked about all the fish i have each time i bought one to make sure they
were all peaceful and suitable for a comunity tank and was told yes every
time. each time i went i explained which fish i already had and i was told
it would be fine.
i have gone to around 4 different fish shops and each said it would be ok.
the algae eaters sound like they could maybe be the ones. i did ask in the
shop and was told they are really peaceful and dont atack other fish, unless
there isnt enough algae, so maybe thats it- i will have to put them in
another tank and see what happens in regaurds to the killing!.ive done a lot
of reading in books regurading my fish before i bought them to check they
get on and all the books said they are fine for a comunity tank, so not sure
what happened.anyways everyone for you help :-)

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I was just being illustrative, which is why I asked for
measurements. The
> most common 4' tanks are the 55G to 75G (although I did type 70G)
with the
> most common being the 55G. Remember that 33L and 40L could be
> misinterpreted for liters so it's always good to type out "Long"
when
> talking about them... but "tanks" for the info. :-D
>
> I have a 65G with a 48"x18" footprint. It would be hell trying to
do
> maintenance or have plants in a 120G 4' tank that would probably
be around
> 36" high unless it's a cube type design.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder NHSNOLA@... 504-621-1870 Fish -
> http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21912 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl
Prime is supposed to make the ammonia non-toxic so as long as you are using
the proper dose for the ammonia reading in your tank, you should not have to
worry about the ammonia levels. I would still try to keep them at 2ppm or
less based on your pH of 7.4.

I think you used the word "cleaned" out of context. If you or she only
vacuumed the gravel good, that is OK.

It's not good to do large percentage PWC's without knowing that the
replacement water will have almost identical water parameters... otherwise
it can cause ph, temp or osmotic shock issues to the fish.

My beliefs is that it would be better on the fish to do a series of 25%
PWC's until you get the tank to it's desired condition, rather than doing a
single large PWC. This gives them time to acclimate to the changing water
parameters rather than changing them so dramatically.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE/memphisgirl

My x my daughters dad has aquariums and has had them for years. She thought
that was she was suppose to do. Should she do anything this weekend.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> I wouldn't add any more chemicals. Try a 30% water change, let
stand for 24 hours and test again. Let us know. The tank sounds like it is
recycling. 75% cleaned? water change? Why?
>
> Harry
>
> memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...>
wrote: #21889 From: "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@...>
> Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
> Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks
ago
> memphisgirl39
> Send IM
> Send Email
> The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites
and o
> nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo
> lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21913 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Add the prime or dechlor-of-choice to you tank first when doing PWC's...
before adding the tap water... if you are using a Python. If you are using
a bucket to add water, treat the tap water in the bucket before adding it to
your tank.

Re-read one or more of these articles on Cycling With Fish so you will have
a more thorough knowledge of what is happening so you do not get confused.

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=3839
http://fish.orbust.net/cycling.html


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE

-What I did was took 50% if the water out. I didnt vacuum and put regular
water back in it but then put prime in it again and cyle. The temp now is
75...ammonia 1.0.....no nitrates or nitrites. Does that sound good?

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> you need to do a pwc asap. That is a very high ammonia reading.
Be
> sure and use the declorinater when adding new water. Also, you are
not
> cycled, no where near it.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > #21889 From: "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > Date: Wed Apr 25, 2007 7:55 pm
> > Subject: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks
> ago
> > memphisgirl39
> > Send IM
> > Send Email
> > The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites
and o
> > nitrates. I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it
ammo
> > lock too? I have 3 mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21914 From: Julie Roughley Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Hi There,

The algae I'm referring to grows on the inside of the tank, which is in a slightly sunny position, is a 60cm high hexanagonal tropical tank, my catfish is green with dark spots & is about 2.5-3cm long & lives primarly on the bottom of the tank

It's tank mates are:

3 x guppies
2 x silver dollars
2 x silver sharks
1 x tiger barb which likes to play dead & loves the bubbles in the tank
10 x neons
4 x red faced silver barbs
3 x small red silver fish whose eyes glow bright when the light is turned on.

All my fish are happy & healthy, including the catfish.

Cheers

Jules

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
There are all kinds of catfish. There are all kinds of algae. Not all
catfish eat algae. Of those catfish that do eat algae, they do not eat
all algae.

First, you need to determine what kind of catfish you have. Once you
have done that, it is easy enough to know whether this fish will eat
algae. If you have a catfish that does eat algae, it may only eat a
specific type of algae, or even, a specific species of algae. Others are
more flexible, and will eat many kinds of algae.

As Lenny mentioned, if you do not know the catfish you currently have,
post a picture of it in the files section or on a web site, and tell us
how to reach it so we can try to determine the catfish you have. Once
that has been done, we can be far more helpful.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cat Fish

Hi Everyone,

I have a catfish, whilst looking beautiful & living nicely with other
members of my community tropical tank, does not suck the algae from the
inside of the tank.

Can I introduce another catfish that will eat the algae & still keep my
existing catter, or do I need to find a new home before I introduce a
algae eating catter.

Jules





---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21915 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
A proper dose of Prime will make the ammonia non-toxic for your fish. No
need to use ammo-lock. Keep doing regular 25% PWC's and testing your water.
Do NOT throw away your filters when they get clogged. Just clean them off
in some removed tank water so you preserve your N-bacteria growing in the
filter media.

Do you know anybody with a healthy fish tank where you could get some
"cycled" filter media from them? If you can, put that in your filter
reservoir and that would go a long way towards getting your tank cycled.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2
wks ago

The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o nitrates.
I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo lock too? I have 3
mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date: 4/24/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21916 From: joe t Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
Hi. I don't mean to be harsh, but it sounds to me that you're putting every chemical you can get your hands on to try and solve a problem when you don't really know what the problem is.

You have to calm down a little and take a good look at this situation. If you changed 75% of your water --- for whatever reason, makes no difference now----that's about as close as you can get to starting a "new" tank. It is cycling ----- or trying to--- all over again.

I don't know why you're putting all that stuff in your tank. You are not giving it enough time to do the cycling routine on its own.

I know you are concerned about the ammonia spike, but that's what happens when a tank is cycling. It's part of the process and totally normal. That's why you should cycle a tank BEFORE you put the fish in there.

While the tank is cycling and after the tank cycles, you cant just keep putting chemicals in there without a good reason. I know the fish shops and all the commercials are telling you to use this and use that, but you can't just do that indiscriminately. These solutions are made for specific purposes and you should be sure that that is the problem before you use it. When you do use it, follow the directions. Putting more than they tell you to does not make it work better. As a matter of fact, using all that stuff the way you said you are doing, you're probably throwing the whole cycling out of whack.

Be patient. You are not going to get quick results with snap decisions. And, unfortunately, with the poor fish going though all this, you may lose them. Chalk it up to experience. You'll know better next time. Remember, you are not going to save them by dumping all those chemicals in there. Let is cycle once and for all and then start from there.

joet.


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21917 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75% cleaned 2 wks ago
Are you talking about the stuff called cycle? I did put some of that
in it.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> A proper dose of Prime will make the ammonia non-toxic for your
fish. No
> need to use ammo-lock. Keep doing regular 25% PWC's and testing
your water.
> Do NOT throw away your filters when they get clogged. Just clean
them off
> in some removed tank water so you preserve your N-bacteria growing
in the
> filter media.
>
> Do you know anybody with a healthy fish tank where you could get
some
> "cycled" filter media from them? If you can, put that in your
filter
> reservoir and that would go a long way towards getting your tank
cycled.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 7:56 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] my 1 month old 10 gallon tank that was 75%
cleaned 2
> wks ago
>
> The readings are 4.0 ammonia, 7.4 ph, 76 temp and 0 nitrites and o
nitrates.
> I just put in it prime and cycle. Should I put in it ammo lock
too? I have 3
> mollys, a guppy and 2 platys.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.0/775 - Release Date:
4/24/2007
> 5:43 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21918 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: whats a pwc
On at 25% partial water change does that mean just taking out that
much water and putting new water back in with prime or does that mean
vacuuming the gravel. Lenny I dont know anybody I could rinse my
filter with.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21919 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: New, with a few questions
Hey all. I just joined the group today, and I have a few questions.
First off, I have 2 10 Gal tanks, both of which are doing fine. I
have no diseases, and the fish get along for the most part. One I've
had since January, and theother for about 3 weeks. Here's my
questions:

1. How long does it take a tank to cycle? And what exactly is
cycling?

2. I can't seem to keep Platty's alive in my tanks, but everything
else does fine. Do they have special water or food needs that I
wasn't told about? (I get my fish from PetSmart, as it's the only
local store that sells fish from clean tanks.)

3. I had a Dwarf Gouramis, in my original tank. About 2 weeks ago,
he developed some really dark blue streaks that went from his eyes
down to his pectoral fin on both sides, and some dark blue along his
top fin. The other group I was in said he had reached sexual
maturity and I should be proud. However, after that he steadily
declined, starting by just hovering around the top portion of the
tank, not moving unless bothered by the other fish. Then yesterday,
I found him breathing hard, flapping his side fins like mad, but
unable to move. His face was pointed up, he was completely verticle.
He died a short while later. When I pulled him out, He was missing
some scales along his upper body, though those could have been
chewed off by my algae eater. I know they are supposed to have a
lifespan of 4 years, so why did mine only last 4 months? Was he
sick? My other fish in that tank are all doing fine.

Tanks in advance for your help. I need to ask these questions
because The other group was just about worthless for advice, and
spent more time talking about haunted houses than fish. Thanks again.

Karen from NY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21920 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
I have a new 10 gallon tank also. People in here really know what
they are talking about. Lenny could really help you with this one.
He has his own website and everything. Look on down on the messages.
He has sent some messages lately.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "uniqueen2004"
<uniqueen2004@...> wrote:
>
> Hey all. I just joined the group today, and I have a few
questions.
> First off, I have 2 10 Gal tanks, both of which are doing fine. I
> have no diseases, and the fish get along for the most part. One
I've
> had since January, and theother for about 3 weeks. Here's my
> questions:
>
> 1. How long does it take a tank to cycle? And what exactly is
> cycling?
>
> 2. I can't seem to keep Platty's alive in my tanks, but everything
> else does fine. Do they have special water or food needs that I
> wasn't told about? (I get my fish from PetSmart, as it's the only
> local store that sells fish from clean tanks.)
>
> 3. I had a Dwarf Gouramis, in my original tank. About 2 weeks ago,
> he developed some really dark blue streaks that went from his eyes
> down to his pectoral fin on both sides, and some dark blue along
his
> top fin. The other group I was in said he had reached sexual
> maturity and I should be proud. However, after that he steadily
> declined, starting by just hovering around the top portion of the
> tank, not moving unless bothered by the other fish. Then
yesterday,
> I found him breathing hard, flapping his side fins like mad, but
> unable to move. His face was pointed up, he was completely
verticle.
> He died a short while later. When I pulled him out, He was missing
> some scales along his upper body, though those could have been
> chewed off by my algae eater. I know they are supposed to have a
> lifespan of 4 years, so why did mine only last 4 months? Was he
> sick? My other fish in that tank are all doing fine.
>
> Tanks in advance for your help. I need to ask these questions
> because The other group was just about worthless for advice, and
> spent more time talking about haunted houses than fish. Thanks
again.
>
> Karen from NY
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21921 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21922 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Hi Karen,

Here is a page I set up that I call the "A to Z of fishkeeping for
beginners"...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml. Right near the top, there are links to two different online tutorials
and I suggest you take one or both of them. They will go a long way in
making you a better, more informed fish keeper. Anything that you have
questions about, come back here and ask away. There are probably links to
every other question you will have as well but we don't mind answering them
live either... if we have the answers.

But, in answer to your current questions...

1. Cycling refers to "The Nitrogen Cycle" which is the natural process that
takes place in aquariums where ammonia (toxic at low levels) is converted to
nitrites (also toxic at low levels) which is then converted to nitrates
(only toxic at very high levels). There are two basic ways to "Cycle" a
tank. "Fishless cycling" which is the best way since it causes no harm to
your fish OR "Cycling With Fish" which is what so many people get stuck with
doing which can be an arduous two month long process of daily water testing,
daily PWC's (partial water changes) and losing fish to sickness or
ammonia/nitrite poisoning. I have links to "Fishless Cycling" and "Cycling
With Fish" on the web page link above.

For the correct nitrifying bacteria to grow a proper sized colony in your
filter system can take up to two months but can be speeded up with seeding
your filter with some "cycled" filter media or a media bag of "cycled"
gravel from a healthy tank and it can also be speeded up by using a product
called Bio-Spira which can be found at some fish stores but also purchased
online. It's not cheap though... but it works where the other so-called
bacteria-in-a-bottle products will not work in most cases. If your first
tank was fully cycled and healthy, you could use some of your filter media
or gravel in your newer tank to jumpstart the cycling process for it.

2. Give us your full stocking on each tank. Also provide water parameters
on both tanks. Temp, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, GH and KH. What is
killing your platy's? Give us more info. To find out more about the needs
of each of your fishes, go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do a search on
the common name of the fish and read the profiles thoroughly. They will
tell you what size tanks you should have, the water parameters that are
best, etc., etc.

3. What kind of algae eater do you have? There are dozens if not hundreds
of fish that are "algae eaters". It's not uncommon for fish stores to sell
people common plecos but they are not suitable for tanks your size. Without
knowing more about what was happening in your tank, it's hard to tell what
happened to your dwarf gourami. You mention "Gouramis" as in plural. Did
you have more than one? It sounds like he was stressed which will cause a
fish to get much darker or much lighter than normal. Stress will lower the
immune system of fish which then allows opportunistic bacteria or parasites
to infect/infest your fish which could kill it. The missing scales could be
from a fight or attack but could also be from bacterial/parasitic issues.

4. So... have you been to any good haunted houses lately? :-D (Just
kidding.)

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos and
files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most important
files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 12:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New, with a few questions

Hey all. I just joined the group today, and I have a few questions.
First off, I have 2 10 Gal tanks, both of which are doing fine. I have no
diseases, and the fish get along for the most part. One I've had since
January, and theother for about 3 weeks. Here's my
questions:

1. How long does it take a tank to cycle? And what exactly is cycling?

2. I can't seem to keep Platty's alive in my tanks, but everything else does
fine. Do they have special water or food needs that I wasn't told about? (I
get my fish from PetSmart, as it's the only local store that sells fish from
clean tanks.)

3. I had a Dwarf Gouramis, in my original tank. About 2 weeks ago, he
developed some really dark blue streaks that went from his eyes down to his
pectoral fin on both sides, and some dark blue along his top fin. The other
group I was in said he had reached sexual maturity and I should be proud.
However, after that he steadily declined, starting by just hovering around
the top portion of the tank, not moving unless bothered by the other fish.
Then yesterday, I found him breathing hard, flapping his side fins like mad,
but unable to move. His face was pointed up, he was completely verticle.
He died a short while later. When I pulled him out, He was missing some
scales along his upper body, though those could have been chewed off by my
algae eater. I know they are supposed to have a lifespan of 4 years, so why
did mine only last 4 months? Was he sick? My other fish in that tank are all
doing fine.

Tanks in advance for your help. I need to ask these questions because The
other group was just about worthless for advice, and spent more time talking
about haunted houses than fish. Thanks again.

Karen from NY

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date: 4/25/2007
12:19 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21923 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
Lenny what a media bag of cycle gravel. Just a bag of cycled gravel
and what is GH and KH.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Karen,
>
> Here is a page I set up that I call the "A to Z of fishkeeping for
> beginners"...
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-
training.h
> tml. Right near the top, there are links to two different online
tutorials
> and I suggest you take one or both of them. They will go a long
way in
> making you a better, more informed fish keeper. Anything that you
have
> questions about, come back here and ask away. There are probably
links to
> every other question you will have as well but we don't mind
answering them
> live either... if we have the answers.
>
> But, in answer to your current questions...
>
> 1. Cycling refers to "The Nitrogen Cycle" which is the natural
process that
> takes place in aquariums where ammonia (toxic at low levels) is
converted to
> nitrites (also toxic at low levels) which is then converted to
nitrates
> (only toxic at very high levels). There are two basic ways
to "Cycle" a
> tank. "Fishless cycling" which is the best way since it causes no
harm to
> your fish OR "Cycling With Fish" which is what so many people get
stuck with
> doing which can be an arduous two month long process of daily
water testing,
> daily PWC's (partial water changes) and losing fish to sickness or
> ammonia/nitrite poisoning. I have links to "Fishless Cycling"
and "Cycling
> With Fish" on the web page link above.
>
> For the correct nitrifying bacteria to grow a proper sized colony
in your
> filter system can take up to two months but can be speeded up with
seeding
> your filter with some "cycled" filter media or a media bag
of "cycled"
> gravel from a healthy tank and it can also be speeded up by using
a product
> called Bio-Spira which can be found at some fish stores but also
purchased
> online. It's not cheap though... but it works where the other so-
called
> bacteria-in-a-bottle products will not work in most cases. If
your first
> tank was fully cycled and healthy, you could use some of your
filter media
> or gravel in your newer tank to jumpstart the cycling process for
it.
>
> 2. Give us your full stocking on each tank. Also provide water
parameters
> on both tanks. Temp, pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, GH and KH.
What is
> killing your platy's? Give us more info. To find out more about
the needs
> of each of your fishes, go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do a
search on
> the common name of the fish and read the profiles thoroughly.
They will
> tell you what size tanks you should have, the water parameters
that are
> best, etc., etc.
>
> 3. What kind of algae eater do you have? There are dozens if not
hundreds
> of fish that are "algae eaters". It's not uncommon for fish
stores to sell
> people common plecos but they are not suitable for tanks your
size. Without
> knowing more about what was happening in your tank, it's hard to
tell what
> happened to your dwarf gourami. You mention "Gouramis" as in
plural. Did
> you have more than one? It sounds like he was stressed which will
cause a
> fish to get much darker or much lighter than normal. Stress will
lower the
> immune system of fish which then allows opportunistic bacteria or
parasites
> to infect/infest your fish which could kill it. The missing
scales could be
> from a fight or attack but could also be from bacterial/parasitic
issues.
>
> 4. So... have you been to any good haunted houses lately? :-D
(Just
> kidding.)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos
and
> files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most
important
> files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your
computer.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of uniqueen2004
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 12:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New, with a few questions
>
> Hey all. I just joined the group today, and I have a few
questions.
> First off, I have 2 10 Gal tanks, both of which are doing fine. I
have no
> diseases, and the fish get along for the most part. One I've had
since
> January, and theother for about 3 weeks. Here's my
> questions:
>
> 1. How long does it take a tank to cycle? And what exactly is
cycling?
>
> 2. I can't seem to keep Platty's alive in my tanks, but everything
else does
> fine. Do they have special water or food needs that I wasn't told
about? (I
> get my fish from PetSmart, as it's the only local store that sells
fish from
> clean tanks.)
>
> 3. I had a Dwarf Gouramis, in my original tank. About 2 weeks ago,
he
> developed some really dark blue streaks that went from his eyes
down to his
> pectoral fin on both sides, and some dark blue along his top fin.
The other
> group I was in said he had reached sexual maturity and I should be
proud.
> However, after that he steadily declined, starting by just
hovering around
> the top portion of the tank, not moving unless bothered by the
other fish.
> Then yesterday, I found him breathing hard, flapping his side fins
like mad,
> but unable to move. His face was pointed up, he was completely
verticle.
> He died a short while later. When I pulled him out, He was missing
some
> scales along his upper body, though those could have been chewed
off by my
> algae eater. I know they are supposed to have a lifespan of 4
years, so why
> did mine only last 4 months? Was he sick? My other fish in that
tank are all
> doing fine.
>
> Tanks in advance for your help. I need to ask these questions
because The
> other group was just about worthless for advice, and spent more
time talking
> about haunted houses than fish. Thanks again.
>
> Karen from NY
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date:
4/25/2007
> 12:19 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21924 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
I'll be honest and say that after years of participating in forums, I've
never heard of "Right Now" but I did a quick Google on it and found this
page... http://memory-doctor.com/Aqua/rightnowfw.html and frankly I think
that page has a bunch of gobble-de-gook on it including boasting about a "5
year shelf life". There simply is no way to keep millions of bacteria in a
bottle alive for 5 years when their main food source is ammonia... unless
they are fed a regular supply of ammonia or kept in hibernation via
refrigeration. If you open a bottle of off-the-shelf bacteria-in-a-bottle,
there is no ammonia in it... at least none of the ones that I tried when I
first got started. Subsequently, none of them had live bacteria in them.

The main website for the product
http://www.hdltd.com/products/p_rightnow.html mentions a patent so I checked
the patent and it was primarily for wastewater treatment but mentions
aquarium aquaculture also.
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6025152-description.html

"BACKGROUND OF INVENTION

Water systems commonplace in today's environment including aquarium
aquaculture, streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, and ground water, are all
subject to contamination by many inorganic and organic compounds, as well as
nitrogen waste components, in particular, ammonium, nitrites and nitrates,
which at certain concentrations become highly toxic. Municipal wastewater
solutions, for examples raw sewage, and industrial effluents, often contain
high levels of ammonium as well as phenols, cyanides, sulfates,
thiocyanates, thiosulfates, and other toxic waste compounds. Many spent
military explosives contain organonitrate waste, and removing such waste in
an economical fashion without contamination of the environment remains a
challenge. These nitrogen waste streams are one of the principal major
ecological and environmental problems facing mankind, and will continue to
pose serious problems as the population grows and waste production
increases."

Based on this "Background Of Invention", I'm not sure I would put the stuff
in my tank. It is probably overkill for the biological and ecological
processes that take place in our aquariums... compared to military
explosives, municipal wastewater, raw sewage, etc.

I can't unequivocally say either of these don't work every time, but I have
tried "Cycle" before and it did not work for me. I've also read countless
online posts from others saying the same thing about Cycle although some
others claimed success with it.

Bio-Spira, if shipped and stored properly (refrigerated) works every time.
Now, if it got hot during shipping or storage and then re-refrigerated, it
will not work so there are occasional online posts saying it did not work
for them but I think that was due to the heating-up issue.

As of this posting, Bio-Spira is the only bacteria-in-a-bottle that I would
use in one of my aquariums... if I had the need to use it. It is a
specialized product specifically developed for fish keepers. It doesn't
claim to do anything else except cycle a fish tank.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos and
files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most important
files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date: 4/25/2007
12:19 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21925 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Agreed. IMHO if you are looking to jumpstart your bacteria population the
best way is to take filter material (or live rock/live sand if you're doing
saltwater) from an established tank and pop it into your new one. If you
don't have an established tank to work with, see if your LFS can let you use
some of theirs.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?


I'll be honest and say that after years of participating in forums, I've
never heard of "Right Now" but I did a quick Google on it and found this
page... http://memory-doctor.com/Aqua/rightnowfw.html and frankly I think
that page has a bunch of gobble-de-gook on it including boasting about a "5
year shelf life". There simply is no way to keep millions of bacteria in a
bottle alive for 5 years when their main food source is ammonia... unless
they are fed a regular supply of ammonia or kept in hibernation via
refrigeration. If you open a bottle of off-the-shelf bacteria-in-a-bottle,
there is no ammonia in it... at least none of the ones that I tried when I
first got started. Subsequently, none of them had live bacteria in them.

The main website for the product
http://www.hdltd.com/products/p_rightnow.html mentions a patent so I checked
the patent and it was primarily for wastewater treatment but mentions
aquarium aquaculture also.
http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6025152-description.html

"BACKGROUND OF INVENTION

Water systems commonplace in today's environment including aquarium
aquaculture, streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, and ground water, are all
subject to contamination by many inorganic and organic compounds, as well as
nitrogen waste components, in particular, ammonium, nitrites and nitrates,
which at certain concentrations become highly toxic. Municipal wastewater
solutions, for examples raw sewage, and industrial effluents, often contain
high levels of ammonium as well as phenols, cyanides, sulfates,
thiocyanates, thiosulfates, and other toxic waste compounds. Many spent
military explosives contain organonitrate waste, and removing such waste in
an economical fashion without contamination of the environment remains a
challenge. These nitrogen waste streams are one of the principal major
ecological and environmental problems facing mankind, and will continue to
pose serious problems as the population grows and waste production
increases."

Based on this "Background Of Invention", I'm not sure I would put the stuff
in my tank. It is probably overkill for the biological and ecological
processes that take place in our aquariums... compared to military
explosives, municipal wastewater, raw sewage, etc.

I can't unequivocally say either of these don't work every time, but I have
tried "Cycle" before and it did not work for me. I've also read countless
online posts from others saying the same thing about Cycle although some
others claimed success with it.

Bio-Spira, if shipped and stored properly (refrigerated) works every time.
Now, if it got hot during shipping or storage and then re-refrigerated, it
will not work so there are occasional online posts saying it did not work
for them but I think that was due to the heating-up issue.

As of this posting, Bio-Spira is the only bacteria-in-a-bottle that I would
use in one of my aquariums... if I had the need to use it. It is a
specialized product specifically developed for fish keepers. It doesn't
claim to do anything else except cycle a fish tank.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos and
files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most important
files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date: 4/25/2007
12:19 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21926 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: New, with a few questions
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 4:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New, with a few questions

Lenny what a media bag of cycle gravel. Just a bag of cycled gravel and what
is GH and KH.

ANSWER -

Cycled gravel is gravel from a tank that is already fully cycled (The
Nitrogen Cycle) which would have some of the nitrifying bacteria living on
it. If you filled up a small media bag (a mesh bag from the fish store or
some people use some nylon pantyhose) with the healthy cycled gravel and put
this in the reservoir of your filter system, the water would pass over this
cycled gravel over and over and help get your filter system cycled.

GH- general hardness (level of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the
water...this level is what is being referred to when people talk about
"hard" or "soft" water)

KH- carbonate hardness (buffering capacity...a measure of the water's
ability to maintain a stable pH when acids or bases are added)

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos and
files...
https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it can be to
use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most important
files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your computer.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date: 4/25/2007
12:19 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21927 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
I suspect, that if the directions are being followed, and the test kit
is good, Prime just is not doing what it is advertised to do. This is
not the first time I have heard, with figures, of the "imitation"
products not working. Amquel used to be the top of the heap--the product
all the others imitate, but the manufacturer who was making it to be
distributed by Kordon, is no longer making it for them. It is now being
made for Hikari.

The big problem with Kordon products is that they are not widely
carried, though, quite often, they are best of breed products, and they
tend to be a bit more expensive than similar products distributed by
other companies.

The American psyche is such that most fee that cheaper is better, and
that is almost never the case. One very good case in point, taken from
my line of business is printers. Inkjet type printers are the most
widely sold printers today. They have a very low entry cost, but the
price of the cartridges to keep the printer fed is actually prohibitive.
The price per page is always more with inkjet printers when compared to
laser printers, whose price of entry is greater, and cost of the toner
cartridges is also greater per refill than ink cartridges. However, you
get a lot more pages per toner cartridge than ink cartridge, so the end
cost, or cost of use is less. For example, the last printer I bought had
a street price of $800-900 (I use street price sine I can get it for
less through my company. It prints 17 pages per minute, color or B&W. It
has a built in duplexer and a built in network card. The toner
cartridges will cost me about $100, but I will get, according to
manufacturer figures 6,000 sheets from the black, and 4,000 sheets from
the colors. My experience has been that I normally get more, but I do
not print much in the way of graphics compared to text, while my other
is printing more images than I do, but still more text. Laser printers
also have a longer life, are less expensive to repair, when needed,
while most inkjet printers are toss aways--it breaks, you toss it and
get a new one because the cost of repairs compared to a new printer does
not justify the repair.

The initial cost of the laser is higher, but, in the long run it is less
expensive to use.

Most people see the lesser cost of the inkjet, the lesser cost of the
cartridges, and go with an inkjet not realizing the cost is much more in
the long run. This attitude I see in the aquatic hobbies as well. One
needs to look at the value for the money, and not the initial costs. The
aquatic hobbies are not cheap (neither are the computer hobbies), so one
must look at the bang for the buck rather than the bucks.

HEY! WHO KICKED THAT SOAP BOX FROM UNDER ME <G>!

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 12:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE

-
Do you think the prime just isnt working.




-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I never have a problem cleaning the gravel when cycling a tank. Why
> would one have a problem?
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Karen
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 10:13 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WOULD SOMEBODY HELP ME WITH THIS PLEASE
>
> Did you disturb the gravel when you cleaned. If so, you may be going
> through a new cycle, though after 2 weeks it should be further along
> than just elevated ammonia.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21928 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: Cat Fish
Jules,

For me, that is still not enough to go one. If I flipped through the several hundred pages of material I have on catfish, I may find several matching that description, then need to determine which ones, if any, are commercially available.

The silver dollars may eat dome of the algae, if they are not getting enough vegetable matter in their diet, but they are not known as algae eaters.

If the algae is only on the glass, I'd not worry too much about it, but if it is the front glass, I'd clean it with a single edged blade, being careful not to nick any of the tank's seams. Algae is not necessarily bad.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cat Fish

Hi There,

The algae I'm referring to grows on the inside of the tank, which is in a slightly sunny position, is a 60cm high hexanagonal tropical tank, my catfish is green with dark spots & is about 2.5-3cm long & lives primarly on the bottom of the tank

It's tank mates are:

3 x guppies
2 x silver dollars
2 x silver sharks
1 x tiger barb which likes to play dead & loves the bubbles in the tank
10 x neons
4 x red faced silver barbs
3 x small red silver fish whose eyes glow bright when the light is turned on.

All my fish are happy & healthy, including the catfish.

Cheers

Jules

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
There are all kinds of catfish. There are all kinds of algae. Not all
catfish eat algae. Of those catfish that do eat algae, they do not eat
all algae.

First, you need to determine what kind of catfish you have. Once you
have done that, it is easy enough to know whether this fish will eat
algae. If you have a catfish that does eat algae, it may only eat a
specific type of algae, or even, a specific species of algae. Others are
more flexible, and will eat many kinds of algae.

As Lenny mentioned, if you do not know the catfish you currently have,
post a picture of it in the files section or on a web site, and tell us
how to reach it so we can try to determine the catfish you have. Once
that has been done, we can be far more helpful.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cat Fish

Hi Everyone,

I have a catfish, whilst looking beautiful & living nicely with other
members of my community tropical tank, does not suck the algae from the
inside of the tank.

Can I introduce another catfish that will eat the algae & still keep my
existing catter, or do I need to find a new home before I introduce a
algae eating catter.

Jules





---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21929 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
-This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
tolete. It is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria
cultures, enzymes. micronutrients and inert ingredients.



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'll be honest and say that after years of participating in forums,
I've
> never heard of "Right Now" but I did a quick Google on it and found
this
> page... http://memory-doctor.com/Aqua/rightnowfw.html and frankly I
think
> that page has a bunch of gobble-de-gook on it including boasting
about a "5
> year shelf life". There simply is no way to keep millions of
bacteria in a
> bottle alive for 5 years when their main food source is ammonia...
unless
> they are fed a regular supply of ammonia or kept in hibernation via
> refrigeration. If you open a bottle of off-the-shelf bacteria-in-a-
bottle,
> there is no ammonia in it... at least none of the ones that I tried
when I
> first got started. Subsequently, none of them had live bacteria in
them.
>
> The main website for the product
> http://www.hdltd.com/products/p_rightnow.html mentions a patent so
I checked
> the patent and it was primarily for wastewater treatment but
mentions
> aquarium aquaculture also.
> http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6025152-description.html
>
> "BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
>
> Water systems commonplace in today's environment including aquarium
> aquaculture, streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, and ground water, are
all
> subject to contamination by many inorganic and organic compounds,
as well as
> nitrogen waste components, in particular, ammonium, nitrites and
nitrates,
> which at certain concentrations become highly toxic. Municipal
wastewater
> solutions, for examples raw sewage, and industrial effluents, often
contain
> high levels of ammonium as well as phenols, cyanides, sulfates,
> thiocyanates, thiosulfates, and other toxic waste compounds. Many
spent
> military explosives contain organonitrate waste, and removing such
waste in
> an economical fashion without contamination of the environment
remains a
> challenge. These nitrogen waste streams are one of the principal
major
> ecological and environmental problems facing mankind, and will
continue to
> pose serious problems as the population grows and waste production
> increases."
>
> Based on this "Background Of Invention", I'm not sure I would put
the stuff
> in my tank. It is probably overkill for the biological and
ecological
> processes that take place in our aquariums... compared to military
> explosives, municipal wastewater, raw sewage, etc.
>
> I can't unequivocally say either of these don't work every time,
but I have
> tried "Cycle" before and it did not work for me. I've also read
countless
> online posts from others saying the same thing about Cycle although
some
> others claimed success with it.
>
> Bio-Spira, if shipped and stored properly (refrigerated) works
every time.
> Now, if it got hot during shipping or storage and then re-
refrigerated, it
> will not work so there are occasional online posts saying it did
not work
> for them but I think that was due to the heating-up issue.
>
> As of this posting, Bio-Spira is the only bacteria-in-a-bottle that
I would
> use in one of my aquariums... if I had the need to use it. It is a
> specialized product specifically developed for fish keepers. It
doesn't
> claim to do anything else except cycle a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos
and
> files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most
important
> files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your
computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date:
4/25/2007
> 12:19 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21930 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
-I did get a bag of gravel from my xs tank. I forgot what its called.
The stuff on the bottom of your tank. Its late.

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Agreed. IMHO if you are looking to jumpstart your bacteria
population the
> best way is to take filter material (or live rock/live sand if
you're doing
> saltwater) from an established tank and pop it into your new one.
If you
> don't have an established tank to work with, see if your LFS can
let you use
> some of theirs.
>
> Sean
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:01 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
>
> I'll be honest and say that after years of participating in forums,
I've
> never heard of "Right Now" but I did a quick Google on it and found
this
> page... http://memory-doctor.com/Aqua/rightnowfw.html and frankly I
think
> that page has a bunch of gobble-de-gook on it including boasting
about a "5
> year shelf life". There simply is no way to keep millions of
bacteria in a
> bottle alive for 5 years when their main food source is ammonia...
unless
> they are fed a regular supply of ammonia or kept in hibernation via
> refrigeration. If you open a bottle of off-the-shelf bacteria-in-a-
bottle,
> there is no ammonia in it... at least none of the ones that I tried
when I
> first got started. Subsequently, none of them had live bacteria in
them.
>
> The main website for the product
> http://www.hdltd.com/products/p_rightnow.html mentions a patent so
I checked
> the patent and it was primarily for wastewater treatment but
mentions
> aquarium aquaculture also.
> http://www.patentstorm.us/patents/6025152-description.html
>
> "BACKGROUND OF INVENTION
>
> Water systems commonplace in today's environment including aquarium
> aquaculture, streams, rivers, ponds, lakes, and ground water, are
all
> subject to contamination by many inorganic and organic compounds,
as well as
> nitrogen waste components, in particular, ammonium, nitrites and
nitrates,
> which at certain concentrations become highly toxic. Municipal
wastewater
> solutions, for examples raw sewage, and industrial effluents, often
contain
> high levels of ammonium as well as phenols, cyanides, sulfates,
> thiocyanates, thiosulfates, and other toxic waste compounds. Many
spent
> military explosives contain organonitrate waste, and removing such
waste in
> an economical fashion without contamination of the environment
remains a
> challenge. These nitrogen waste streams are one of the principal
major
> ecological and environmental problems facing mankind, and will
continue to
> pose serious problems as the population grows and waste production
> increases."
>
> Based on this "Background Of Invention", I'm not sure I would put
the stuff
> in my tank. It is probably overkill for the biological and
ecological
> processes that take place in our aquariums... compared to military
> explosives, municipal wastewater, raw sewage, etc.
>
> I can't unequivocally say either of these don't work every time,
but I have
> tried "Cycle" before and it did not work for me. I've also read
countless
> online posts from others saying the same thing about Cycle although
some
> others claimed success with it.
>
> Bio-Spira, if shipped and stored properly (refrigerated) works
every time.
> Now, if it got hot during shipping or storage and then re-
refrigerated, it
> will not work so there are occasional online posts saying it did
not work
> for them but I think that was due to the heating-up issue.
>
> As of this posting, Bio-Spira is the only bacteria-in-a-bottle that
I would
> use in one of my aquariums... if I had the need to use it. It is a
> specialized product specifically developed for fish keepers. It
doesn't
> claim to do anything else except cycle a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> FREE and automatic online remote backup of your documents, photos
and
> files...
> https://mozy.com/?ref=SY4ZSI Check out how simple and secure it
can be to
> use the Mozy remote backup system. Mozy will back up your most
important
> files and folders every day/night while you aren't using your
computer.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 3:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date:
4/25/2007
> 12:19 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21931 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
I do not know alot about fish so I need help!! Two of my goldfish
(one is fancy, the other a fantail) keep floating upwards like they
can get themselves to go down. If they really try they can swim off
around etc but get still and immediatly float up!

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated because I'm madly in love with
one of these guys!!

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21932 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/26/2007
Subject: I did clean the gravel on the bottom of my tank tonite
I came home from work and the ammonia was 4.00 again!!!!!!My x
completely cleaned the gravel. Now the ammonia is close to 0 with a ph
of 7.3 and temp 74 and still no nitrites or nitrates.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21933 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: real plants in a new 10 gallon
Does it hurt for real plants to be in a 10 gallon that Im trying to
get cycled?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Swim bladder issues are common with fancy goldfish. Sometimes it's caused
by bacterial issues which might require medicated foods. Sometimes it's
caused by digestive issues and/or constipation. Sometimes it's genetic and
not much can be done.

You can start by feeding a better quality food that is low in fillers (like
wheat, etc.) and feeding them more with veggies and fruits as part of their
overall diet. I keep frozen bags of green peas, zucchini and broccoli
florets in my freezer solely for my goldfish and pleco. There are dozens of
other fruits and veggies that people feed their goldies. Many people also
make a home-made gel food to avoid some of the digestive issues caused by
cheap goldfish foods. Let me know if you want links to recipe's.

In your case, start with feeding them green pea "meat" first. The green
peas should be defrosted and then pinch the pea to squeeze the "meat" out of
the skin. Discard the skin and smoosh the "meat" a little... especially if
your goldfish are small. They should be fed peas at least weekly or
whenever you see them having floating issues and this will help keep them
"regular". You should see green poop come out after feeding them pea
"meat". If they are not pooping, then they are probably constipated and you
should fast them for three days before feeding them the peas.

For the zucchini slices and broccoli florets, blanch them first to soften
them up. The broccoli will sink on it's own. The zucchini should be
weighed down with a weighted food clip or clip them on the side with a
suction cup food clip.

Here is a VERY GOOD article on goldfish care, tank size requirements, etc.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html It's 4
pages long so click the link at the bottom of each page.

Since you say you are new to fish keeping, you can also check out my blog
article "A to Z On Fish Keeping" which has links to two different online
tutorials which will give you a lot of the basics. We can help you here
with the details.




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!

I do not know alot about fish so I need help!! Two of my goldfish (one is
fancy, the other a fantail) keep floating upwards like they can get
themselves to go down. If they really try they can swim off around etc but
get still and immediatly float up!

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated because I'm madly in love with one of
these guys!!

Jennifer

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21935 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.

There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is why so
many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but once you have
fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put in the tank
as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects to your
fish.

In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly even daily
25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was higher,
then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing chemicals
into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve recommended) or a
simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you have
completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this for a
month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on your tests.
Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in your tank.
This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic to your
fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below 1ppm. Keep up
with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the ammonia
go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to 0.0ppm.

At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate readings.
Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should probably do
weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if your nitrate
readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over 40ppm
between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of PWC's to
twice a week.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?

-This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your tolete. It
is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures, enzymes.
micronutrients and inert ingredients.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21936 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: whats a pwc (partial water change)
I always vacuum my gravel when doing a PWC. Just removing the water will
certainly lower the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate percentage but if you leave
waste in the gravel, as it decays it will just cause things to go back up
more quickly. By vacuuming the waste out of the gravel, you still lower the
percentages of nitrogenous compounds in the water column but also remove
detritus from the gravel which will keep things lower for a longer period of
time.

I'm not sure what you mean by "rinse my filter with". I don't think I would
have told you something like that. I might have told you to get some filter
media from someone with a healthy tank that was fully cycled and use that
piece of filter media in your filter reservoir to seed your filter media.
Maybe you misunderstood me. Presuming you don't know anybody with a healthy
tank, then you just have to stick with doing daily testing and PWC's until
your tank fully cycles.

As others have said, you need to get away from adding all of the different
stuff you are adding. As you should now know, the Cycle product simply does
not work as advertised. Many fish products/chemicals on the shelves at
stores do not work as advertised. Just use the Prime to treat the tank
after you remove the 25% PWC water. Then refill the tank. If you need to
do more than one 25% PWC a day to keep things safe, I guess you could bump
it up to 40% PWC's but try not to go over 50% PWC's at any one time. I like
25% PWC's as safe amount to change without risking shock issues from temp,
pH or osmoregulatory issues.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 12:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] whats a pwc

On at 25% partial water change does that mean just taking out that much
water and putting new water back in with prime or does that mean vacuuming
the gravel. Lenny I dont know anybody I could rinse my filter with.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/776 - Release Date: 4/25/2007
12:19 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21937 From: friendtoallfish Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: cleaning a planted tank
How often do you gravel vacume a planted tank. I have a 55 that is
planted and not sure how often it should be vacumed.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21938 From: Kevin Batey Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a new 10 gallon
It may actually help - plants can provide more area for the beneficial bacteria to inhabit. Just make sure to get plants that can thrive in whatever lighting conditions you have.

memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote: Does it hurt for real plants to be in a 10 gallon that Im trying to
get cycled?






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21939 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Before you start adding salt to your tank you will need to find out what the
specific gravity (SG) of the water needs to be for live bearers. You'll
also need a hydrometer or refractometer to measure it. Do some research on
what the SG needs to be (unfortunately I'm not sure off hand). You will
need to mix the salt into your water change water and make sure the SG
matches that of the tank before you do water changes.

Sean

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 12:55 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?


NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.

There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is why so
many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but once you have
fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put in the tank
as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects to your
fish.

In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly even daily
25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was higher,
then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing chemicals
into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve recommended) or a
simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you have
completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this for a
month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on your tests.
Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in your tank.
This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic to your
fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below 1ppm. Keep up
with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the ammonia
go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to 0.0ppm.

At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate readings.
Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should probably do
weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if your nitrate
readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over 40ppm
between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of PWC's to
twice a week.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?

-This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your tolete. It
is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures, enzymes.
micronutrients and inert ingredients.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21940 From: Jessica Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
I have a large strawberry hermit crab in my saltwater tank. I can't
keep him. How do I get rid of him? I have no clue. Any ideas would
be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21941 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
Take him to your local fish store. That's how I got rid of mine. They kept killing and eating all my snails. :(


----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 11:01 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.


I have a large strawberry hermit crab in my saltwater tank. I can't
keep him. How do I get rid of him? I have no clue. Any ideas would
be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21942 From: Memrie Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Lenny, I would love the links to the recipes.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Swim bladder issues are common with fancy goldfish. Sometimes it's
caused
> by bacterial issues which might require medicated foods. Sometimes
it's
> caused by digestive issues and/or constipation. Sometimes it's
genetic and
> not much can be done.
>
> You can start by feeding a better quality food that is low in
fillers (like
> wheat, etc.) and feeding them more with veggies and fruits as part
of their
> overall diet. I keep frozen bags of green peas, zucchini and
broccoli
> florets in my freezer solely for my goldfish and pleco. There are
dozens of
> other fruits and veggies that people feed their goldies. Many
people also
> make a home-made gel food to avoid some of the digestive issues
caused by
> cheap goldfish foods. Let me know if you want links to recipe's.
>
> In your case, start with feeding them green pea "meat" first. The
green
> peas should be defrosted and then pinch the pea to squeeze
the "meat" out of
> the skin. Discard the skin and smoosh the "meat" a little...
especially if
> your goldfish are small. They should be fed peas at least weekly or
> whenever you see them having floating issues and this will help
keep them
> "regular". You should see green poop come out after feeding them
pea
> "meat". If they are not pooping, then they are probably
constipated and you
> should fast them for three days before feeding them the peas.
>
> For the zucchini slices and broccoli florets, blanch them first to
soften
> them up. The broccoli will sink on it's own. The zucchini should
be
> weighed down with a weighted food clip or clip them on the side
with a
> suction cup food clip.
>
> Here is a VERY GOOD article on goldfish care, tank size
requirements, etc.
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
It's 4
> pages long so click the link at the bottom of each page.
>
> Since you say you are new to fish keeping, you can also check out
my blog
> article "A to Z On Fish Keeping" which has links to two different
online
> tutorials which will give you a lot of the basics. We can help you
here
> with the details.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of ipartyforfun
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
>
> I do not know alot about fish so I need help!! Two of my goldfish
(one is
> fancy, the other a fantail) keep floating upwards like they can get
> themselves to go down. If they really try they can swim off around
etc but
> get still and immediatly float up!
>
> Any help would be GREATLY appreciated because I'm madly in love
with one of
> these guys!!
>
> Jennifer
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date:
4/26/2007
> 3:23 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21943 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that until I
get nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just
taking 25% of the water out?





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
>
> There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
why so
> many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
once you have
> fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
in the tank
> as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects
to your
> fish.
>
> In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
even daily
> 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was
higher,
> then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing
chemicals
> into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
recommended) or a
> simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
have
> completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
for a
> month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
your tests.
> Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
your tank.
> This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
to your
> fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
1ppm. Keep up
> with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the
ammonia
> go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
0.0ppm.
>
> At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
readings.
> Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
probably do
> weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
your nitrate
> readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over
40ppm
> between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
PWC's to
> twice a week.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
tolete. It
> is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures,
enzymes.
> micronutrients and inert ingredients.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date:
4/26/2007
> 3:23 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21944 From: Jessica Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
That's what he's doing in my tank. I've lost 2 turbo snails, 1 sea
urchin and about to loose a Hatian Pink tip anenome.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Take him to your local fish store. That's how I got rid of mine.
They kept killing and eating all my snails. :(
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 11:01 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Lg Strawberry Hermit Crab.
>
>
> I have a large strawberry hermit crab in my saltwater tank. I
can't
> keep him. How do I get rid of him? I have no clue. Any ideas
would
> be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21945 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
These are just in the order that I have them in my favorites folder. Check
the ingredients and see what is available for you before deciding on which
one or you could be creative with the ingredients. Some may be medicated
recipe's.

http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-fish-food/112.asp

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/GelFood.html

http://thegab.org/Articles/MedicatedGelFood.html

http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=18

http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/Food.html

http://thegab.org/Articles/MedicatedFood.html


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!

Lenny, I would love the links to the recipes.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Swim bladder issues are common with fancy goldfish. Sometimes it's
caused
> by bacterial issues which might require medicated foods. Sometimes
it's
> caused by digestive issues and/or constipation. Sometimes it's
genetic and
> not much can be done.
>
> You can start by feeding a better quality food that is low in
fillers (like
> wheat, etc.) and feeding them more with veggies and fruits as part
of their
> overall diet. I keep frozen bags of green peas, zucchini and
broccoli
> florets in my freezer solely for my goldfish and pleco. There are
dozens of
> other fruits and veggies that people feed their goldies. Many
people also
> make a home-made gel food to avoid some of the digestive issues
caused by
> cheap goldfish foods. Let me know if you want links to recipe's.
>
> In your case, start with feeding them green pea "meat" first. The
green
> peas should be defrosted and then pinch the pea to squeeze
the "meat" out of
> the skin. Discard the skin and smoosh the "meat" a little...
especially if
> your goldfish are small. They should be fed peas at least weekly or
> whenever you see them having floating issues and this will help
keep them
> "regular". You should see green poop come out after feeding them
pea
> "meat". If they are not pooping, then they are probably
constipated and you
> should fast them for three days before feeding them the peas.
>
> For the zucchini slices and broccoli florets, blanch them first to
soften
> them up. The broccoli will sink on it's own. The zucchini should
be
> weighed down with a weighted food clip or clip them on the side
with a
> suction cup food clip.
>
> Here is a VERY GOOD article on goldfish care, tank size
requirements, etc.
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
> <http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html>
It's 4
> pages long so click the link at the bottom of each page.
>
> Since you say you are new to fish keeping, you can also check out
my blog
> article "A to Z On Fish Keeping" which has links to two different
online
> tutorials which will give you a lot of the basics. We can help you
here
> with the details.
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of ipartyforfun
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
>
> I do not know alot about fish so I need help!! Two of my goldfish
(one is
> fancy, the other a fantail) keep floating upwards like they can get
> themselves to go down. If they really try they can swim off around
etc but
> get still and immediatly float up!
>
> Any help would be GREATLY appreciated because I'm madly in love
with one of
> these guys!!
>
> Jennifer

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21946 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
I've never kept livebearers so I'm not sure what the recommended dosage is
for long term success with livebearers, but for the purposes of nitrite
protection from "brown blood" disorder (nitrite poisoning), just a fraction
of a teaspoon (a pinch) is sufficient for 10G. One teaspoon will be enough
to treat 400+ gallons. I glimpsed over these three articles about salt
http://www.aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/Salt.htm
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article22.html
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml
and it looks like livebearers will "tolerate" up to one teaspoon per gallon
but further reading of these articles should be done as it seems that using
"Marine Salt" is the recommended type of salt for livebearers since they
come from brackish waters in nature. The only time I've ever used salt was
for protection from nitrite poisoning so I'm sorry I can't be more helpful
on the actual long term dosage for livebearers. Those articles should help
you or maybe other fish keepers will chime in.

As far as your filter system... give me the brand and model again.
Presuming it's a small HOB (hang on back) type filter system with a
specialized cartridge, if it starts to get clogged up, you would need to
swoosh it around in some removed tank water to get the big stuff off of it
and then maybe use your finger to squeeze or rub some of the big stuff off
but do not change it out or clean it too much to the point where you could
harm your nitrifying bacteria colony. Once your tank is fully cycled, you
can do a better job when cleaning the filters (see my blog and the links for
"Filter Maintenance" and "Filter Cleaning") since you would have the
N-bacteria living in your gravel and every other surface by that time but
filter media is the primary place where they live. You should also have
extra filter media in the reservoir of your filter, besides the simple
cartridge that they sell for them. This way, if you do decide you want to
replace the cartridge, the other media in the cartridge will keep your tank
from going into mini-cycles each time.

While taking 25% of the water would be considered a PWC, if you are going to
remove the water, it's best to siphon vacuum the gravel to remove any excess
detritus at the same time. This will keep the ecology of the tank in better
shape by removing the stuff that will eventually break down causing
problems.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?

Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that until I get
nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just taking 25%
of the water out?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
>
> There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
why so
> many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
once you have
> fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
in the tank
> as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects
to your
> fish.
>
> In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
even daily
> 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was
higher,
> then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing
chemicals
> into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
recommended) or a
> simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
have
> completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
for a
> month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
your tests.
> Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
your tank.
> This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
to your
> fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
1ppm. Keep up
> with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the
ammonia
> go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
0.0ppm.
>
> At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
readings.
> Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
probably do
> weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
your nitrate
> readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over
40ppm
> between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
PWC's to
> twice a week.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
tolete. It
> is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures,
enzymes.
> micronutrients and inert ingredients.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21947 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
The tank does have yeast in it. Is that ok to put it in my tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21948 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
THANK YOU LENNY. YOU ARE SO KNOWLEDGABLE



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I've never kept livebearers so I'm not sure what the recommended
dosage is
> for long term success with livebearers, but for the purposes of
nitrite
> protection from "brown blood" disorder (nitrite poisoning), just a
fraction
> of a teaspoon (a pinch) is sufficient for 10G. One teaspoon will
be enough
> to treat 400+ gallons. I glimpsed over these three articles about
salt
> http://www.aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/Salt.htm
> http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article22.html
> http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml
> and it looks like livebearers will "tolerate" up to one teaspoon
per gallon
> but further reading of these articles should be done as it seems
that using
> "Marine Salt" is the recommended type of salt for livebearers since
they
> come from brackish waters in nature. The only time I've ever used
salt was
> for protection from nitrite poisoning so I'm sorry I can't be more
helpful
> on the actual long term dosage for livebearers. Those articles
should help
> you or maybe other fish keepers will chime in.
>
> As far as your filter system... give me the brand and model again.
> Presuming it's a small HOB (hang on back) type filter system with a
> specialized cartridge, if it starts to get clogged up, you would
need to
> swoosh it around in some removed tank water to get the big stuff
off of it
> and then maybe use your finger to squeeze or rub some of the big
stuff off
> but do not change it out or clean it too much to the point where
you could
> harm your nitrifying bacteria colony. Once your tank is fully
cycled, you
> can do a better job when cleaning the filters (see my blog and the
links for
> "Filter Maintenance" and "Filter Cleaning") since you would have the
> N-bacteria living in your gravel and every other surface by that
time but
> filter media is the primary place where they live. You should also
have
> extra filter media in the reservoir of your filter, besides the
simple
> cartridge that they sell for them. This way, if you do decide you
want to
> replace the cartridge, the other media in the cartridge will keep
your tank
> from going into mini-cycles each time.
>
> While taking 25% of the water would be considered a PWC, if you are
going to
> remove the water, it's best to siphon vacuum the gravel to remove
any excess
> detritus at the same time. This will keep the ecology of the tank
in better
> shape by removing the stuff that will eventually break down causing
> problems.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that until
I get
> nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just
taking 25%
> of the water out?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
> >
> > There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
> why so
> > many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
> once you have
> > fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
> in the tank
> > as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects
> to your
> > fish.
> >
> > In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
> even daily
> > 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was
> higher,
> > then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing
> chemicals
> > into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
> recommended) or a
> > simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
> have
> > completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
> for a
> > month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
> your tests.
> > Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
> your tank.
> > This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
> to your
> > fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
> 1ppm. Keep up
> > with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the
> ammonia
> > go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
> 0.0ppm.
> >
> > At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
> readings.
> > Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
> probably do
> > weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
> your nitrate
> > readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over
> 40ppm
> > between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
> PWC's to
> > twice a week.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
> >
> > -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
> tolete. It
> > is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures,
> enzymes.
> > micronutrients and inert ingredients.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date:
4/26/2007
> 3:23 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21949 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Great!! This will help me out a bunch!! Also another question. we have one
tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it but would like to go
with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2 smaller bio wheel pumps to
put one on either side, one bio wheel pump rated for 55 gallons, or one bio
wheel pump rated for more than 55, say 75-80?

Jennifer



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21950 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Re: Free goldfish, needs a good home
http://koiclubsandiego.org/events.php Koi Club of San Diego should have
someone who can help save your little goldfish. Long-bodied goldfish are
best suited for a pond anyhow... or a larger home aquarium of 50G++ for just
one fish for long term success. It looks like they have a meeting at
someone's home coming up on May 6th. Maybe you could leave the little guy
on the doorstep and knock and run. Then they'd be forced to give him a good
home. LOL

I'll forward this message to another larger fish group that I belong to.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21951 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: MY TESTING ON MY 10 GALLON NOW
PH 7.8, AMMONIA .30 TEMP 76 NO NITRITES OR NITRATES...I THREW THE
BOX AWAY ON THE FILTER. MAYBE I CAN TELL FROM THE BIG BOX OUTSIDE.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21952 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: LENNY YOU ONLINE to answer that question about the 250 gallon tank
some of the fish have had yeast. Is that ok to put gravel in my tank
from that one.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21953 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/27/2007
Subject: Its a whisper 10 power filter that came with my 10 gallon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21954 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
A quick word about the AquaScience Research Group (the first link given below). Since the article has no attribution, I do not know who wrote it, but the founder of the company is a water chemist, and does not take lightly to those who try to bend the rules of chemistry or ignore them all together. While the company has a good reputation, generally, the person behind it does have some, shall we say, detractors, based on his attitude. I would trust any water related articles found on that site.

For those of you who had chemistry in high school, and have retained something other than the fun of playing with potentially explosive chemicals in and out of the lab, there is a very good book that you may want to dig around to find. This is Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water Management in Closed Systems_. Try to get the second edition. It is out of print, but well worth the effort to find if just for the explanation of the nitrogen cycle. While the book is geared to marine systems, much of the information is just as valid for freshwater systems as well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 5:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?

I've never kept livebearers so I'm not sure what the recommended dosage is
for long term success with livebearers, but for the purposes of nitrite
protection from "brown blood" disorder (nitrite poisoning), just a fraction
of a teaspoon (a pinch) is sufficient for 10G. One teaspoon will be enough
to treat 400+ gallons. I glimpsed over these three articles about salt
http://www.aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/Salt.htm
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article22.html
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml
and it looks like livebearers will "tolerate" up to one teaspoon per gallon
but further reading of these articles should be done as it seems that using
"Marine Salt" is the recommended type of salt for livebearers since they
come from brackish waters in nature. The only time I've ever used salt was
for protection from nitrite poisoning so I'm sorry I can't be more helpful
on the actual long term dosage for livebearers. Those articles should help
you or maybe other fish keepers will chime in.

As far as your filter system... give me the brand and model again.
Presuming it's a small HOB (hang on back) type filter system with a
specialized cartridge, if it starts to get clogged up, you would need to
swoosh it around in some removed tank water to get the big stuff off of it
and then maybe use your finger to squeeze or rub some of the big stuff off
but do not change it out or clean it too much to the point where you could
harm your nitrifying bacteria colony. Once your tank is fully cycled, you
can do a better job when cleaning the filters (see my blog and the links for
"Filter Maintenance" and "Filter Cleaning") since you would have the
N-bacteria living in your gravel and every other surface by that time but
filter media is the primary place where they live. You should also have
extra filter media in the reservoir of your filter, besides the simple
cartridge that they sell for them. This way, if you do decide you want to
replace the cartridge, the other media in the cartridge will keep your tank
from going into mini-cycles each time.

While taking 25% of the water would be considered a PWC, if you are going to
remove the water, it's best to siphon vacuum the gravel to remove any excess
detritus at the same time. This will keep the ecology of the tank in better
shape by removing the stuff that will eventually break down causing
problems.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?

Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that until I get
nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just taking 25%
of the water out?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
>
> There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
why so
> many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
once you have
> fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
in the tank
> as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects
to your
> fish.
>
> In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
even daily
> 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was
higher,
> then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing
chemicals
> into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
recommended) or a
> simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
have
> completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
for a
> month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
your tests.
> Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
your tank.
> This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
to your
> fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
1ppm. Keep up
> with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the
ammonia
> go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
0.0ppm.
>
> At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
readings.
> Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
probably do
> weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
your nitrate
> readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over
40ppm
> between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
PWC's to
> twice a week.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
tolete. It
> is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures,
enzymes.
> micronutrients and inert ingredients.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date: 4/26/2007
3:23 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
*´Ż`*.¸¸.><((((ş>.*´Ż`*.¸¸.*´Ż`*.¸><((((ş> ¸.*´Ż`*.¸. , .*´Ż`*..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.*´Ż`*.¸¸.*´Ż`*.¸<ş((((><¸.*´Ż`*.¸. , .*´Ż`*..<ş((((><*´Ż`*.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21955 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: cleaning a planted tank
When I do a water change, I vacuum 25-33% of the gravel at the same
time. In tanks without plants, I'll go deep into the substrate. In
planted tanks, I do not go so deeply, and I am careful around the plants
so as not to damage the roots. In most aquatic plants--the true
aquatics, the roots are mainly for anchoring the plant rather than
nutrient gathering.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cleaning a planted tank

How often do you gravel vacume a planted tank. I have a 55 that is
planted and not sure how often it should be vacumed.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21956 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Question: pump size for tank
We have one tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it but
would like to go with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2
smaller bio wheel pumps to put one on either side, one bio wheel pump
rated for 55 gallons, or one bio wheel pump rated for more than 55,
say 75-80?

We have precious goldfish in these tanks. We do reg water changes and
cleaning, but if we are going to buy a bio wheel pump I want to buy
whats best.

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21957 From: harry perry Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
I would overfilter this tank. Consider using two filters at 55. If one goes your still safe. The overfiltration will be a big help with your goldfish.

Harry

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...> wrote: We have one tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it but
would like to go with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2
smaller bio wheel pumps to put one on either side, one bio wheel pump
rated for 55 gallons, or one bio wheel pump rated for more than 55,
say 75-80?

We have precious goldfish in these tanks. We do reg water changes and
cleaning, but if we are going to buy a bio wheel pump I want to buy
whats best.

Jennifer






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21958 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Steve, Lenny, Thanks for including the reference to the Water
Management (Spotte) book and for the links to the salt articles,
which I'll have to look up.

As for Livebearers, they of course are not all "created equal" when
it comes to salt requirement (or tolerance), with some Mollie species
probably tolerating the most at, at least 8 tsp per gallon, with
Guppies right behind them in this tolerance. Depending again on the
species, most Swordtails (including X. helleri) are found in streams
at higher elevations, while Platies are found in the lowlands, for
the most part, so wouldn't be able to tolerate nearly as much,
although at least half that amount, not to say that it should be
maintained as such.

In any event, most any Livebearer (and most other freshwater fish)
will easily be able to take the pinch of salt for 10 gallons needed
to prevent nitrite toxicity ("brown blood" disorder), and then
some. "Prevention" (protection) from this disorder is the key word
here. In the presence of increased nitrite (and any other
disolveables in the water) the gill surfaces take this up to be
absorbed by the blood. As the nitrite increases to excessive levels,
the hemoglobin absorbing this nitrite is affected by it in a manner
that converts the hemoglobin into another substance (methanoglobin),
which loses its ability to absorb oxygen and, if could be seen, would
appear as increasing shades of reddish-brown as the nitrite evel
increased.

Fortunately, hemoglobin has a much greater affinity for Chloride (as
in Sodium Chloride -- salt) than to nitrite, to the ratio of 9 to 1.
So if sufficient salt is available in the water when the nitrite is
elevated, the salt will be absorbed first negating the potentially
harmful effects of the nitrite. This is not to say that nitrite
levels should be allowed to increase, but the maintenence of some
salt will prevent this toxicity.

As one teaspoon of salt per gallon will equate to approximately 1 ppt
(one part per thousand), the one teaspoon of salt for 400 gallons
mentioned will equate to about 25 ppm (25 parts per million). This
will defuse the toxic effects of about 2.77 ppm of nitrite. In a ten
gallon tank, this would amount to .025 teaspoon of salt (a pinch).
To be covered for a possible larger increase of nitrite, just use a
larger pinch.

Now, getting back to the key word ("prevention"), in order to repress
the onset of "brown blood" condition, you must first be maintaining
these slight amounts of salt in your water. If nitrites are allowed
to increase in the absence of salt, depending on its level it could
cause toxicity in the fish. At this point, adding trace amounts of
salt will be useless. It will be necessary to administer up to a 1%
solution of salt, keeping in mind that both ammonia and nitrite is
more toxic as the pH increases. On average 1/2% salt solution (3 3/4
tsp per gallon) should be sufficient, added progressively, with
increased aeration being beneficial. Higher temperatures should be
avoided in this case, if possible. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> A quick word about the AquaScience Reasearch Group (the first link
given below). Since the article has no attribution, I do not know
who wrote it, but the founder of the company is a water chemist, and
does not take lighly to those who try to bend the rules of chemistry
or ignore them all together. While the company has a good
reputation, generallt the person behind it does have some, shall we
say, detractors, based on his attitude. I would trust any water
related articles found on that site.
>
> For those of you who had chemistry in high school, and have
retained something other than the fun of playing with potentially
explosive chemicals in and out of the lab, there is a very good book
that you may want to dig around to find. This is Stephen
Spotte's_Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water Management in Closed
Systems_. Try to get the second edition. It is out of print, but
well worth the effort to find if just for the explanation of the
nitrogen cycle. While the book is geared to marine systems, much of
the information is just as valid for freshwater systems as well.

> \\Steve//


> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka
GoldLenny
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 5:12 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> I've never kept livebearers so I'm not sure what the recommended
dosage is
> for long term success with livebearers, but for the purposes of
nitrite
> protection from "brown blood" disorder (nitrite poisoning), just a
fraction
> of a teaspoon (a pinch) is sufficient for 10G. One teaspoon will
be enough
> to treat 400+ gallons. I glimpsed over these three articles about
salt
> http://www.aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/Salt.htm
> http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article22.html
> http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml
> and it looks like livebearers will "tolerate" up to one teaspoon
per gallon
> but further reading of these articles should be done as it seems
that using
> "Marine Salt" is the recommended type of salt for livebearers since
they
> come from brackish waters in nature. The only time I've ever used
salt was
> for protection from nitrite poisoning so I'm sorry I can't be more
helpful
> on the actual long term dosage for livebearers. Those articles
should help
> you or maybe other fish keepers will chime in.
>
> As far as your filter system... give me the brand and model again.
> Presuming it's a small HOB (hang on back) type filter system with a
> specialized cartridge, if it starts to get clogged up, you would
need to
> swoosh it around in some removed tank water to get the big stuff
off of it
> and then maybe use your finger to squeeze or rub some of the big
stuff off
> but do not change it out or clean it too much to the point where
you could
> harm your nitrifying bacteria colony. Once your tank is fully
cycled, you
> can do a better job when cleaning the filters (see my blog and the
links for
> "Filter Maintenance" and "Filter Cleaning") since you would have the
> N-bacteria living in your gravel and every other surface by that
time but
> filter media is the primary place where they live. You should also
have
> extra filter media in the reservoir of your filter, besides the
simple
> cartridge that they sell for them. This way, if you do decide you
want to
> replace the cartridge, the other media in the cartridge will keep
your tank
> from going into mini-cycles each time.
>
> While taking 25% of the water would be considered a PWC, if you are
going to
> remove the water, it's best to siphon vacuum the gravel to remove
any excess
> detritus at the same time. This will keep the ecology of the tank
in better
> shape by removing the stuff that will eventually break down causing
> problems.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
>
> Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that until
I get
> nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just
taking 25%
> of the water out?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
> >
> > There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
> why so
> > many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
> once you have
> > fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
> in the tank
> > as each chemical can and probably does have negative side effects
> to your
> > fish.
> >
> > In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
> even daily
> > 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH was
> higher,
> > then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit throwing
> chemicals
> > into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
> recommended) or a
> > simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
> have
> > completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
> for a
> > month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
> your tests.
> > Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
> your tank.
> > This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
> to your
> > fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
> 1ppm. Keep up
> > with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see the
> ammonia
> > go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
> 0.0ppm.
> >
> > At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
> readings.
> > Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
> probably do
> > weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
> your nitrate
> > readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going over
> 40ppm
> > between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
> PWC's to
> > twice a week.
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
> >
> > -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in your
> tolete. It
> > is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria cultures,
> enzymes.
> > micronutrients and inert ingredients.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date:
4/26/2007
> 3:23 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> *´¯`*.¸¸.><((((º>.*´¯`*.¸¸.*´¯`*.¸><((((º> ¸.*´¯`*.¸. , .*´¯`*..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.*´¯`*.¸¸.*´¯`*.¸<º((((><¸.*´¯`*.¸. , .*´¯`*..<º
((((><*´¯`*.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21959 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
Thank you so much for the info on salt


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Steve, Lenny, Thanks for including the reference to the Water
> Management (Spotte) book and for the links to the salt articles,
> which I'll have to look up.
>
> As for Livebearers, they of course are not all "created equal" when
> it comes to salt requirement (or tolerance), with some Mollie
species
> probably tolerating the most at, at least 8 tsp per gallon, with
> Guppies right behind them in this tolerance. Depending again on
the
> species, most Swordtails (including X. helleri) are found in
streams
> at higher elevations, while Platies are found in the lowlands, for
> the most part, so wouldn't be able to tolerate nearly as much,
> although at least half that amount, not to say that it should be
> maintained as such.
>
> In any event, most any Livebearer (and most other freshwater fish)
> will easily be able to take the pinch of salt for 10 gallons needed
> to prevent nitrite toxicity ("brown blood" disorder), and then
> some. "Prevention" (protection) from this disorder is the key word
> here. In the presence of increased nitrite (and any other
> disolveables in the water) the gill surfaces take this up to be
> absorbed by the blood. As the nitrite increases to excessive
levels,
> the hemoglobin absorbing this nitrite is affected by it in a manner
> that converts the hemoglobin into another substance
(methanoglobin),
> which loses its ability to absorb oxygen and, if could be seen,
would
> appear as increasing shades of reddish-brown as the nitrite evel
> increased.
>
> Fortunately, hemoglobin has a much greater affinity for Chloride
(as
> in Sodium Chloride -- salt) than to nitrite, to the ratio of 9 to
1.
> So if sufficient salt is available in the water when the nitrite is
> elevated, the salt will be absorbed first negating the potentially
> harmful effects of the nitrite. This is not to say that nitrite
> levels should be allowed to increase, but the maintenence of some
> salt will prevent this toxicity.
>
> As one teaspoon of salt per gallon will equate to approximately 1
ppt
> (one part per thousand), the one teaspoon of salt for 400 gallons
> mentioned will equate to about 25 ppm (25 parts per million). This
> will defuse the toxic effects of about 2.77 ppm of nitrite. In a
ten
> gallon tank, this would amount to .025 teaspoon of salt (a pinch).
> To be covered for a possible larger increase of nitrite, just use a
> larger pinch.
>
> Now, getting back to the key word ("prevention"), in order to
repress
> the onset of "brown blood" condition, you must first be maintaining
> these slight amounts of salt in your water. If nitrites are
allowed
> to increase in the absence of salt, depending on its level it could
> cause toxicity in the fish. At this point, adding trace amounts of
> salt will be useless. It will be necessary to administer up to a
1%
> solution of salt, keeping in mind that both ammonia and nitrite is
> more toxic as the pH increases. On average 1/2% salt solution (3
3/4
> tsp per gallon) should be sufficient, added progressively, with
> increased aeration being beneficial. Higher temperatures should be
> avoided in this case, if possible. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > A quick word about the AquaScience Reasearch Group (the first
link
> given below). Since the article has no attribution, I do not know
> who wrote it, but the founder of the company is a water chemist,
and
> does not take lighly to those who try to bend the rules of
chemistry
> or ignore them all together. While the company has a good
> reputation, generallt the person behind it does have some, shall we
> say, detractors, based on his attitude. I would trust any water
> related articles found on that site.
> >
> > For those of you who had chemistry in high school, and have
> retained something other than the fun of playing with potentially
> explosive chemicals in and out of the lab, there is a very good
book
> that you may want to dig around to find. This is Stephen
> Spotte's_Fish and Invertebrate Culture: Water Management in Closed
> Systems_. Try to get the second edition. It is out of print, but
> well worth the effort to find if just for the explanation of the
> nitrogen cycle. While the book is geared to marine systems, much
of
> the information is just as valid for freshwater systems as well.
>
> > \\Steve//
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka
> GoldLenny
> > Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 5:12 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
> >
> > I've never kept livebearers so I'm not sure what the recommended
> dosage is
> > for long term success with livebearers, but for the purposes of
> nitrite
> > protection from "brown blood" disorder (nitrite poisoning), just
a
> fraction
> > of a teaspoon (a pinch) is sufficient for 10G. One teaspoon will
> be enough
> > to treat 400+ gallons. I glimpsed over these three articles
about
> salt
> > http://www.aquascienceresearch.com/APInfo/Salt.htm
> > http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article22.html
> > http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml
> > and it looks like livebearers will "tolerate" up to one teaspoon
> per gallon
> > but further reading of these articles should be done as it seems
> that using
> > "Marine Salt" is the recommended type of salt for livebearers
since
> they
> > come from brackish waters in nature. The only time I've ever
used
> salt was
> > for protection from nitrite poisoning so I'm sorry I can't be
more
> helpful
> > on the actual long term dosage for livebearers. Those articles
> should help
> > you or maybe other fish keepers will chime in.
> >
> > As far as your filter system... give me the brand and model again.
> > Presuming it's a small HOB (hang on back) type filter system with
a
> > specialized cartridge, if it starts to get clogged up, you would
> need to
> > swoosh it around in some removed tank water to get the big stuff
> off of it
> > and then maybe use your finger to squeeze or rub some of the big
> stuff off
> > but do not change it out or clean it too much to the point where
> you could
> > harm your nitrifying bacteria colony. Once your tank is fully
> cycled, you
> > can do a better job when cleaning the filters (see my blog and
the
> links for
> > "Filter Maintenance" and "Filter Cleaning") since you would have
the
> > N-bacteria living in your gravel and every other surface by that
> time but
> > filter media is the primary place where they live. You should
also
> have
> > extra filter media in the reservoir of your filter, besides the
> simple
> > cartridge that they sell for them. This way, if you do decide
you
> want to
> > replace the cartridge, the other media in the cartridge will keep
> your tank
> > from going into mini-cycles each time.
> >
> > While taking 25% of the water would be considered a PWC, if you
are
> going to
> > remove the water, it's best to siphon vacuum the gravel to remove
> any excess
> > detritus at the same time. This will keep the ecology of the
tank
> in better
> > shape by removing the stuff that will eventually break down
causing
> > problems.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Friday, April 27, 2007 3:25 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
> >
> > Ok how much aqaurium salt to the ten gallon and wait on that
until
> I get
> > nitrites right and dont rinse the filter yet.Also a pwc is just
> taking 25%
> > of the water out?
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > NO!!!!!! You cannot add cess pool chemicals to your tank.
> > >
> > > There is no simple chemical fix for "Cycling" with fish. This is
> > why so
> > > many of us stress "Fishless Cycling" prior to getting fish but
> > once you have
> > > fish in the tank, you have to be very careful about what you put
> > in the tank
> > > as each chemical can and probably does have negative side
effects
> > to your
> > > fish.
> > >
> > > In your case, the simple solution is daily testing and possibly
> > even daily
> > > 25% PWC's to keep the ammonia under 2ppm at 7.4pH. If your pH
was
> > higher,
> > > then the ammonia level would have to be much lower. Quit
throwing
> > chemicals
> > > into your tank. Use either Prime (or the product Steve
> > recommended) or a
> > > simple dechlor product. Do not mess with your filters until you
> > have
> > > completed the cycling process. Since you have been going at this
> > for a
> > > month, pretty soon you will start to see nitrites showing up on
> > your tests.
> > > Since you have livebearers already, you should be using salt in
> > your tank.
> > > This same salt will help prevent the nitrite from being as toxic
> > to your
> > > fish but you should still do PWC's to keep the nitrites below
> > 1ppm. Keep up
> > > with testing and PWC's and pretty soon after that you will see
the
> > ammonia
> > > go down to 0.0ppm and eventually the nitrites will go down to
> > 0.0ppm.
> > >
> > > At that point, you are cycled and will start getting nitrate
> > readings.
> > > Since your 10G is heavily stocked with livebearers, you should
> > probably do
> > > weekly 25% PWC's to replace trace elements and minerals even if
> > your nitrate
> > > readings are not elevated but if you see your nitrates going
over
> > 40ppm
> > > between the weekly PWC's, you should increase the frequency of
> > PWC's to
> > > twice a week.
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:12 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS CYCLE OR RIGHT NOW BETTER?
> > >
> > > -This might sound crazy but what about RIX-X that you put in
your
> > tolete. It
> > > is full of bacteria for the septic tank. It has bacteria
cultures,
> > enzymes.
> > > micronutrients and inert ingredients.
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.463 / Virus Database: 269.6.1/777 - Release Date:
> 4/26/2007
> > 3:23 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > *´¯`*.¸¸.><((((º>.*´¯`*.¸¸.*´¯`*.¸><((((º> ¸.*´¯`*.¸. , .*´¯`*..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.*´¯`*.¸¸.*´¯`*.¸<º((((><¸.*´¯`*.¸. , .*´¯`*..<º
> ((((><*´¯`*.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21960 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!! My fish are floating to the top!!
Hi Jennifer,

It's helpful if you keep some of the old message that you may be replying to
so things stay in context. I have copy/pasted the previous emails/replies
in this one.

If your 55G tank is 4' long, I would go with two filters, both rated for at
least 55G. When you see a filter rated for a certain sized tank, that is
usually for smaller tropical community tanks. Large fish like goldfish need
a lot more filtration than from a single filter system rated for a
particular tank.

While Bio-Wheel filter systems are good, for Goldfish, I would go with two
Aquaclear filters... or one canister filter and your current HOB or another
HOB and your current HOB.

The Aquaclear filters have larger reservoirs than most other HOB's and they
come with a large sponge block which gives you much more mechanical and
biological filtration which is very helpful for big fish like goldfish.

You could go with two Aquaclear 70's which have adjustable flow rates from
100-300gph but it would probably be good to run them both at full stream.
It's good to have 10X filtration on goldfish tanks due to their waste but if
the two of them are too much, you could at least slow them down a little.

Since you already have one HOB filter system, you could just add on an
Aquaclear model to increase your filtration. The good thing about having
two filter systems is that if one ever breaks while you are gone, it would
not cause catastrophic issues with your tank since the other should still be
working.

If you decide on getting a Bio-Wheel, you should also buy a package of
polypad filter media or a sponge filter block and add extra filter media to
the reservoir of the Bio-Wheel. I have a Bio-Wheel 200 and I have a "Filter
Profile" article on it in my blog (links on the right side of my blog) where
you can see how I also modified the filter cartridge that comes with them to
remove the carbon. It also shows the extra poly pad media I added to the
reservoir section.

Shop around for whatever you plan to buy. Remember that PetsMart stores
will match their online prices so always check online and print out the page
for anything you might buy from them, then give the printed pages to the
cashier and they can adjust the prices. You can save up to 50% of the shelf
price using this tip.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21961 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: LENNY YOU ONLINE
I've never heard of a fish having "yeast". I did a Google and could not
find any reference to a yeast disease related to fish either.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21962 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
I'm not sure what you mean by "yeast in it".

I would not use anything from an unhealthy tank. Even using stuff from
apparently healthy tanks carry some risk but the risks from an unhealthy
tank are far too great.

Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21963 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Re: getting graver from somebody elses 250 gallon
I meant fungus


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure what you mean by "yeast in it".
>
> I would not use anything from an unhealthy tank. Even using stuff
from
> apparently healthy tanks carry some risk but the risks from an
unhealthy
> tank are far too great.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder 504-621-1870
> Fish - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21964 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/28/2007
Subject: Help female swordfin is dying!!
hi i bought 2 fish yesterday, a female and a male swordfin tropical
fish. whilst the male is fine the female is not looking good. i have
moved her to a tank on her own but shes still not looking good, just
laying on the floor of the tank, shes still breathing but only
just.and slightly curling up her tail. shes been like that for almost
24 hours now and i dont know what to do. is there anything i can do
for her or is there no hope. any help to keep her alive would be
greatly appriciated. i feel she was probably like this when i got her,
as i did all the right things when i bought her home and the male is
fine. thanks for your help :-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21965 From: azariamum1 Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: re female swordfin fish has died :-(
hi all ,fish has sadly died :-(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21966 From: c j Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Help female swordfin is dying!!
Did you buy her from a local fish store? Hopefully you can get a
replacement.

I wonder if the shock of tranferring to another tank (no matter how careful
you were)
might have just made an already sick fish, even worse.

I bough 4 serpae a couple of weeks ago, put them in the Q tank and just
released
them to the main tank yesterday. They will join 4 others that's have been
around for about
a year.

I always wonder who many I will lose in the transfer process. Even though I
sit there and
examine the fish at the LFS before purchasing, and detail exactly which fish
I want to the
sales person - I know these little buggers are hard to get. Sometimes they
get the wrong ones.
Sometimes the sales person make me feels like they are put out by my request
to NOT get
a fish that is not in tip top shape.

I hate buy from fish stores. But, unless it's online, there is no where
else to buy around my little town.

Keep us updated. Hopefully you can get a replacement.

It seems like when we notice there is something wrong with out fish, it's
almost too late to do anything about it. Maybe I'm using the wrong
'healing' tehniques' or meds. I've only been able to clear parasites with
sick fish and have some success.

On 4/29/07, azariamum1 <thebells.1@...> wrote:
>
> hi i bought 2 fish yesterday, a female and a male swordfin tropical
> fish. whilst the male is fine the female is not looking good. i have
> moved her to a tank on her own but shes still not looking good, just
> laying on the floor of the tank, shes still breathing but only
> just.and slightly curling up her tail. shes been like that for almost
> 24 hours now and i dont know what to do. is there anything i can do
> for her or is there no hope. any help to keep her alive would be
> greatly appriciated. i feel she was probably like this when i got her,
> as i did all the right things when i bought her home and the male is
> fine. thanks for your help :-)
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21967 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
Harry,



Thanks a lot.

Would you suggest 2 filters rated at 30 gallons or 2 filters rated at more?
And what would you suggest the more be?



Jenn



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer



I would overfilter this tank. Consider using two filters at 55. If one goes
your still safe. The overfiltration will be a big help with your goldfish.

Harry

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@aristotle. <mailto:Gittieup%40aristotle.net> net>
wrote: We have one tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it
but
would like to go with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2
smaller bio wheel pumps to put one on either side, one bio wheel pump
rated for 55 gallons, or one bio wheel pump rated for more than 55,
say 75-80?

We have precious goldfish in these tanks. We do reg water changes and
cleaning, but if we are going to buy a bio wheel pump I want to buy
whats best.

Jennifer





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 21968 From: politazazn Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: I hope this isn't inappropriate
Members wanted. groups.yaho.com/group/Homegrown-Aquaculture

This is a group for people who enjoy working with uncommonly, or
rarely spawned fish, live foods, etc. If you enjoy trying to do what
they say can't be done, this group may be able to help you, and you
will surely be an asset to this group. Problem solving, and figuring
things out are what this group is about...hope to see you there.
Shane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21969 From: harry perry Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer/again
I would go with two at 55. The flow can be adjusted with most filters if it gets to be too much. If you forget a water change your still good.

Harry

Bobby & Jennifer <Gittieup@...> wrote: Harry,

Thanks a lot.

Would you suggest 2 filters rated at 30 gallons or 2 filters rated at more?
And what would you suggest the more be?

Jenn

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer

I would overfilter this tank. Consider using two filters at 55. If one goes
your still safe. The overfiltration will be a big help with your goldfish.

Harry

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@aristotle. <mailto:Gittieup%40aristotle.net> net>
wrote: We have one tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it
but
would like to go with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2
smaller bio wheel pumps to put one on either side, one bio wheel pump
rated for 55 gallons, or one bio wheel pump rated for more than 55,
say 75-80?

We have precious goldfish in these tanks. We do reg water changes and
cleaning, but if we are going to buy a bio wheel pump I want to buy
whats best.

Jennifer

Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21970 From: Jerry Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer
Jenn, in a 55 gal with gold fish . Get at least 2 aqua clear 110 , they
are rated for 60 to 100 gal. . And put 2 sponge instead of 1 in each, ,
clean only one at the time. It's important to keep a high level of water in
the tank, so the filter make a good disturbance at the surface only. More
important if you have fancy goldfish

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Bobby & Jennifer
Envoyé : 29 avril 2007 09:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer

Harry,



Thanks a lot.

Would you suggest 2 filters rated at 30 gallons or 2 filters rated at more?
And what would you suggest the more be?



Jenn



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question: pump size for tank/Jennifer



I would overfilter this tank. Consider using two filters at 55. If one goes
your still safe. The overfiltration will be a big help with your goldfish.

Harry

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@aristotle. <mailto:Gittieup%40aristotle.net> net>
wrote: We have one tank that is 55 gallon and we have a filter pump on it
but
would like to go with a pump that has bio wheels. Should we get 2
smaller bio wheel pumps to put one on either side, one bio wheel pump
rated for 55 gallons, or one bio wheel pump rated for more than 55,
say 75-80?

We have precious goldfish in these tanks. We do reg water changes and
cleaning, but if we are going to buy a bio wheel pump I want to buy
whats best.

Jennifer





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21971 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Powerhead Questions?
Hello Everyone,

I have a question about powerheads. I know this is going to sound dumb but I can't see from any pictures I have seen. I am looking at my UGF lift tube. My question is should it have gravel inside the lift tube????? If not what should I try to fix the problem. I have just set up this 40 gallon tank and it has NO fish in it right now. I wanted to make sure all of my equipment was working before I got my fish.

Also, How much should the surface be "rippling"? Mine is gently rippling 3/4 of the tank surface.

Any and All Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated:)

Thanks In advance:)

hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21972 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
I came in to find my placo had jumpd out of the tank. He was moving
ever so slightly (I think) so I put him back in... is there anything I
can do for him??

I've heard about plecos being hardy creatures and people putting them
back in the tank after the've jumped out, how long does it normally
take for them to "recover" if they are going to??

Help!!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21973 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Like most catfish, they are pretty hardy. How is he acting now? How long
was he out? Moral of the story... cover your tank!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 2:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!

I came in to find my placo had jumpd out of the tank. He was moving ever so
slightly (I think) so I put him back in... is there anything I can do for
him??

I've heard about plecos being hardy creatures and people putting them back
in the tank after the've jumped out, how long does it normally take for them
to "recover" if they are going to??

Help!!
Jenn

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3:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21974 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
I'm not sure how long he was out, he looks completely dead to me. I called
the lady I got him from and she said to leave him in there as they are
really hardy. He does not seem to be breathing at all, we have added two ER
air stones and I'm watching and waiting. We have a canopy lid so there is
space between the top of the tank and the cabinet, he jumped on the glass
piece in between the two sides of the tank. Didn't ever know that would
happen, well I do now. I've never lost a fish :) so this is kinda
depressing :(, I love my plecos.

If he looks completely dead, is there a chance he may come back? Any
suggestions to try and help?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21975 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
yes, he may come back.

they are hardy.

I have pictures of them at an open air food market in peru where they are in
baskets all day long without water and they are still alive.

The places they originate from occasionally get dry or close to it.

Just wait and see.

Mike



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21976 From: DONNA COLMAN Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: DO YALL WANT TO GO AHEAD AND VOTE ON THE PHOTOS
You want to go ahead and vote on the photos.


DONNA COLMAN






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21977 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: DO YALL WANT TO GO AHEAD AND VOTE ON THE PHOTOS
Sorry wrong group



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, DONNA COLMAN <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> You want to go ahead and vote on the photos.
>
>
> DONNA COLMAN
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21978 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Powerhead Questions?
The gravel in the tube should not hurt, unless you are making it a
reverse flow UGF, which it does not sound like you are doing. If you do
not like the look of the gravel in the tubes, carefully remove all
gravel around the tubes and then remove the tubes and the gravel within
and replace the tubes and move the gravel back in. Not as easy to do as
it sounds. You can also try to siphon the gravel out.

With an empty tank, you might do a fishless cycle, and once it is
complete, add fish to the tank. With a fishless cycle, you will not have
the problems with the fish during the cycle that people regularly try to
resolve here.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 4:27 PM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Powerhead Questions?

Hello Everyone,

I have a question about powerheads. I know this is going to sound dumb
but I can't see from any pictures I have seen. I am looking at my UGF
lift tube. My question is should it have gravel inside the lift
tube????? If not what should I try to fix the problem. I have just set
up this 40 gallon tank and it has NO fish in it right now. I wanted to
make sure all of my equipment was working before I got my fish.

Also, How much should the surface be "rippling"? Mine is gently rippling
3/4 of the tank surface.

Any and All Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated:)

Thanks In advance:)

hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21979 From: Steve Szabo Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
The length of recovery time, if the fish does recover, will vary on the
size of the fish, the length of time out of the water, and how suitable
the water is to the species you have.

As Lenny mentioned, ensure your tank is covered. Most likely you thought
it was <g>. Fish can get out of the smallest gaps left in the covering,
so you may want to do some work in getting the larger holes covered. An
easy way is to get some plastic sheeting, about 1/8" to 1/4" thick, and
cut it to ft the openings and then silicone it to the hood at the
locations needing to be covered. Filters pose a difficult spot, since
you need enough room for the water to flow without getting on the hood,
and, eventually, to the floor.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 3:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!

I came in to find my placo had jumpd out of the tank. He was moving
ever so slightly (I think) so I put him back in... is there anything I
can do for him??

I've heard about plecos being hardy creatures and people putting them
back in the tank after the've jumped out, how long does it normally
take for them to "recover" if they are going to??

Help!!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21980 From: ipartyforfun Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Thanks to every one who responded. I have him back in the tank,
howeber, I think he's gone to pleco heaven. His eyes look really bad
and there is no sign of gill movement, etc. I swear he was moving (I
thought) a little when we found him.
:(

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21981 From: EAR Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Mike,

Would you mind sharing that open market photo?

Thanks,
Liz


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21982 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: HELP HELP My pleco jumped out!
Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Ipartyforfun, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

Thanks to every one who responded. I have him back in the tank, howeber, I think he's gone to pleco heaven. His eyes look really bad and there is no sign of gill movement, etc. I swear he was moving (I thought) a little when we found him. :(

Jenn

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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I am so sorry to hear this news:( I was hoping that he would make it. i have been checking in the messages all day to see if he was better.

Well now he can jump as high as he wants to in pleco heaven and swing from the highest star he can find. You did what you could for him and that is all any of us will be able to do. I know there will be tears when I loose my fish. there are if I loose my doves.

Hugs from Me and my Coo birds,...again I am so sorry.

hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21983 From: Peaches Date: 4/29/2007
Subject: Re: Powerhead Questions?
Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Steve Szabo, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

The gravel in the tube should not hurt, unless you are making it a reverse flow UGF, which it does not sound like you are doing. If you do not like the look of the gravel in the tubes, carefully remove all gravel around the tubes and then remove the tubes and the gravel within and replace the tubes and move the gravel back in. Not as easy to do as it sounds. You can also try to siphon the gravel out.

With an empty tank, you might do a fishless cycle, and once it is complete, add fish to the tank. With a fishless cycle, you will not have the problems with the fish during the cycle that people regularly try to resolve here.

\\Steve// -----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 4:27 PM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Powerhead Questions?

Hello Everyone,

I have a question about powerheads. I know this is going to sound dumb but I can't see from any pictures I have seen. I am looking at my UGF lift tube. My question is should it have gravel inside the lift tube????? If not what should I try to fix the problem. I have just set up this 40 gallon tank and it has NO fish in it right now. I wanted to make sure all of my equipment was working before I got my fish.

Also, How much should the surface be "rippling"? Mine is gently rippling 3/4 of the tank surface.

Any and All Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated:)

Thanks In advance:)

hugs Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/

Your email settings:
Individual Email | Traditional

To change settings online go to:
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To change settings via email:
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Thanks Steve:)

I was worried sick. I don't know how the gravel got in the tube but at least the powerhead has a "strainer" that goes down into the lift tube. I just thought the gravel might make the powerhead not pull water as well.

I am going to try to use Bio-Spira in my new tank. I have heard good things about this product and hope I am lucky. No one around me has a fish tank and I am on my own except for this group:)

I appreciate the help and quick responce. I was beginning to feel "sick" that I might have to drain my aquarium, strain the gravel out and basiclly start allllllll over. I can't lift much and the thought of moveing forty pounds of gravel did NOT appeal to me.

I do have a gravel vac though but I am not sure how I would get it to siphen out the gravel in the tube:). When i pick up the vac won't it "drop" the gravel back in the tube? I am thinking I must have gotten some under the filter when I first set the tank up:)

Thanks again for the help. I at least feel better now.

hugs
Peaches

+++ I would let my mind wander......but it's too little to be out alone +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21984 From: coryswalter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Question about fish odor
This may be a silly question since it is about a fish tank, but is
there anything I can do to my tank to keep it from smelling like a fish
tank? It seems like it cycles thorough and for the most part it is
okay, but then it gets a spell where it just smells. Thanks in advance
for information. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21985 From: coryswalter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Question about Black Angel Fish
How large can a black angel fish get? I have an absolutely divine
black angel that just keeps getting larger and larger every day. It is
in with 2 golden angels, 2 red platys, 2 cory cats, and a dreamsicle
colored male betta. They all exist very, very well, but the black
angel just keeps growing. Would more fish slow him down or will he get
to the point he needs his own tank? Thanks in advance. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21986 From: bmt1brain Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Sucker fish
I have a problem. My sucker fish have started eating my fishes food.
And won't eat the algea any more. What should I do. I don't know what
kind it is. It's a dark brown with spots. The normal kind I think.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21987 From: bmt1brain Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: feeder goldfish
I am thinking about getting 30 feeder goldfish to get them large enough
where they would survive in my pond and waterfall. I would be putting
them in a 55 gallon aquarium. Is this big enough. How many of the 30
would probably survive. Is there any thing special I should do for
them. HELP! Please. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21988 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Sucker fish
Could be what some stores refer to as a "common pleco". They get to be
about 18" or so and they do get lazy about "cleaning" as they get older.
Mine is 6 years now and prefers bloodworms and veggies, though he won't turn
his nose up for algae tabs and he still does clean, just no where near as
much as he used to. That's normal for them. Don't know the L number to
give you for them to nail down the exact species. Mine was nearly full
grown after 4 years. Fish food is fine for them. You still should feed him
algae tabs and veggies. Dunno if "common" plecos need driftwood or not. At
least mine has never touched the wood in his tank other than to lay under
it.



If you have plants, keep in mind that they will happily eat most aquatic
plants.



Hope that helps.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bmt1brain
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 12:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sucker fish



I have a problem. My sucker fish have started eating my fishes food.
And won't eat the algea any more. What should I do. I don't know what
kind it is. It's a dark brown with spots. The normal kind I think.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21989 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
I have a 20gal fedder tank and my feeders are constantly getting
sucked into then stuck to the filter tube that hangs into the tank.
What can I do about that?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21990 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
cover the intake with a fine mesh.
Emily


On 5/1/07, Jessica <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 20gal fedder tank and my feeders are constantly getting
> sucked into then stuck to the filter tube that hangs into the tank.
> What can I do about that?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21991 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Do more frequent 25% PWC's (partial water changes). Vacuum your gravel
better and do more frequent filter maintenance. My blog has a long article
on filter maintenance and cleaning. The "smell" is likely coming from
excess detritus in your gravel and filters which then funks up your water.
If you run carbon in your filters, you should change it out every couple of
weeks as it becomes ineffective after a short period of time. My filter
cleaning article addresses options for this as well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21992 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Sucker fish
Most do need and eat regular foods. It could be a "Common Pleco". They are
omnivores and need more than just algae to live. If you do not feed them
properly, they might even make a meal of another fish. They need protein to
live. The Algae Thins that I feed mine are 45% protein. Here is a page
with pictures of some common algae eaters. See if you see yours on here...
http://www.azgardens.com/algae_eating_fish.php

Let us know which one looks most like yours. If you can take a pic and post
it in the photo album section, we might be able to identify it for you.

Certain species are also known to become more carnivorous than herbivorous
as they mature. You need to help us figure out what kind you have.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21993 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: feeder goldfish
How big is your pond? Do you already have bigger fish in it? Some "feeder
goldfish" live for well over 25 years. Many others die early deaths or are
eaten.

I think 30 would be too many for in a 55G tank unless you are planning on
having tons of filtration and do daily large water changes... otherwise they
fish would be likely to become stunted and have health issues and you don't
want to introduce those into your pond.

If your pond isn't too small or already fully stocked, then we could come up
with a better plan on how many fish you could grow out in your 55G.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21994 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
I hope you have a BIG tank as angel fish get quite large in proper sized
tanks. The betta and angels are not always suitable tank mates as bettas
don't like other fish with fancy fins so keep an eye on them. Angels can
get aggressive at times as well... they are cichlids. They need up to 35G
per adult sized angelfish. Angelfish should be kept singly or in groups of
3-4 but I'm not sure if the two different species count as a trio. Are the
other two paired off or do you know the sexes of them?

Here is a good profile and information on Angelfish.
http://fish.mongabay.com/angelfish.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21995 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Do you have a filter screen on the end of the tube?

Healthy fish should never get stuck to the filter screen that is used to
disburse the suction from the intake tube. If you don't have a filter
screen like this, then you should add one to your intake tube.
http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog3684/folder24579/img3040592.jpg

If you have a filter screen, then the fish are probably sick/dying and maybe
should not be used as feeders.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21996 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
I don't know the sexes, but all 3 seem to get along fine. I have not had any "attitude" problems for the 2.5 months they have been together. The black one is just getting so big. They are in a 10 gal tank. I have a 30 gal one I could put him in, but he'd be so much larger than anything it it and he just seems so happy where he is.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21997 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Where would I get one?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Emily Tenczar" <etenczar@...>
wrote:
>
> cover the intake with a fine mesh.
> Emily
>
>
> On 5/1/07, Jessica <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
> >
> > I have a 20gal fedder tank and my feeders are constantly getting
> > sucked into then stuck to the filter tube that hangs into the
tank.
> > What can I do about that?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21998 From: Jessica Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
I do have a filter screen, however I think the problem might be that
I'm using the filter that came with my 55 gallon tank for my 20
gallon. I didn't need it for my 55gal due to it being saltwater and
needing the skimmer. Is there something that goes over it so the holes
are smaller, some kind of screen?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Do you have a filter screen on the end of the tube?
>
> Healthy fish should never get stuck to the filter screen that is used
to
> disburse the suction from the intake tube. If you don't have a filter
> screen like this, then you should add one to your intake tube.
>
http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog3684/folder24579/img3040592.jpg
>
> If you have a filter screen, then the fish are probably sick/dying
and maybe
> should not be used as feeders.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 21999 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Thank you sooooo much


----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2007 3:34:12 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Question about fish odor


Do more frequent 25% PWC's (partial water changes). Vacuum your gravel
better and do more frequent filter maintenance. My blog has a long article
on filter maintenance and cleaning. The "smell" is likely coming from
excess detritus in your gravel and filters which then funks up your water.
If you run carbon in your filters, you should change it out every couple of
weeks as it becomes ineffective after a short period of time. My filter
cleaning article addresses options for this as well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22000 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Read that profile link in my previous reply. A 10G tank is no where near
large enough for angelfish. Even the 30G would be cramped in a short time
but it would be much better for your angelfish than the 10G. What is in
the 30G now? Maybe you will have to move some fish around to get the
angels into the larger tank.

I have a 10G stocking list and recommendations article on my blog. Click my
blog in my sig and then on the right side, there is a link to the 10G
stocking list.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 4:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: Question about Black Angel Fish

I don't know the sexes, but all 3 seem to get along fine. I have not had any
"attitude" problems for the 2.5 months they have been together. The black
one is just getting so big. They are in a 10 gal tank. I have a 30 gal one I
could put him in, but he'd be so much larger than anything it it and he just
seems so happy where he is.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22001 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.
Using a 55G filter would probably be fine on a 20G feeder tank. Filter
companies are notorious for overrating their filters to try and sell them at
a higher price. You would want 200gph and that's probably all that 55G
filter has... or maybe it has a little more. Depends on the brand.

I still think it's probably due to ill fish but if you want to try something
else, you could put a filter intake sponge over the intake screen. This
would disburse the suction even more than the screen.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 5:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank.

I do have a filter screen, however I think the problem might be that I'm
using the filter that came with my 55 gallon tank for my 20 gallon. I didn't
need it for my 55gal due to it being saltwater and needing the skimmer. Is
there something that goes over it so the holes are smaller, some kind of
screen?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Do you have a filter screen on the end of the tube?
>
> Healthy fish should never get stuck to the filter screen that is used
to
> disburse the suction from the intake tube. If you don't have a filter
> screen like this, then you should add one to your intake tube.
>
http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog3684/folder24579/img3040592.jpg
<http://akamai.edeal.com//images/catalog3684/folder24579/img3040592.jpg>
>
> If you have a filter screen, then the fish are probably sick/dying
and maybe
> should not be used as feeders.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/782 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:10
AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22002 From: harry perry Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: I've got a problem with my feeder tank./Jessica
A piece of panty hose and a rubber band will work.

Harry

Jessica <jdecorse25@...> wrote: I have a 20gal fedder tank and my feeders are constantly getting
sucked into then stuck to the filter tube that hangs into the tank.
What can I do about that?






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22003 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Tank repair
I knocked a tiny chip out of the edge of an aquarium which resulted in a
crack. Can this be repaired?
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22004 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Can you take some pictures and post them to the groups photo album. It
would be easier to tell if we could see the damage. Some can be fixed and
others can't. What size tank is it?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 8:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tank repair

I knocked a tiny chip out of the edge of an aquarium which resulted in a
crack. Can this be repaired?
Thanks,
Roxanne

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22005 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Hi Lenny,
It's only a ten gallon and luckily was setting up a 20 gallon at the
time and tranferred the water and filter so the fish are fine.
Sorry, I can't post a picture but the crack is so fine it barely
leaked and about 10 inches long in a diagonal.
I'd like to get another 20 gallon and was looking at them on-line but
I can't afford that right now and I hate throwing things away if they
can be fixed.
Roxanne.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22006 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Though it has been a long time since I have seen domestic get large as
they should, but the angel fish may grow to 8" long, sans tail, and
10-12" high, from the tip of the dorsal to the tip of the anal fin.
However, black angel fish do remain smaller than other varieties.

The proper way to raise angels is to use a large tank that is tall, to
allow for proper development of the finnage. For the three you have, I'd
place them in a 55 with some other, complimentary, fish.

Some one referred to your two varieties of angels as separate species.
They are not separate species. They are simply variations of
Pterophyllum scalare. The other two valid species are Pterophyllum altum
and Pterophyllum leopoldi. You do occasionally see altums in the hobby,
but I have yet to see a leopoldi, though some people may be keeping
them. There may be some altum genes in the scalare varieties, as I have
heard, since the great angelfish plague, that some have bred altums and
scalares to help over come the effects of the plague.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Black Angel Fish

How large can a black angel fish get? I have an absolutely divine
black angel that just keeps getting larger and larger every day. It is
in with 2 golden angels, 2 red platys, 2 cory cats, and a dreamsicle
colored male betta. They all exist very, very well, but the black
angel just keeps growing. Would more fish slow him down or will he get
to the point he needs his own tank? Thanks in advance. Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22007 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
OK. Sounds like a pretty big crack. It will eventually spread even longer
and fail completely. I think you would have to replace that glass pane.
Not an easy task but not impossible either.

Before undertaking this project, post on your local FreeCycle.org site that
you are looking for a 10G tank and you may get one for free with lots of
goodies to go with it. I saw them often prior to Hurricane Katrina when I
was looking. I haven't been on Freecycle since Katrina. After you get a
new "used" one, then post yours on Freecycle for some DIY'er to come get and
repair. ;-)

If you decide you want to replace the glass, this site will help.
http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/aquariumdiy/a/aa031302.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 8:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tank repair

Hi Lenny,
It's only a ten gallon and luckily was setting up a 20 gallon at the time
and tranferred the water and filter so the fish are fine.
Sorry, I can't post a picture but the crack is so fine it barely leaked and
about 10 inches long in a diagonal.
I'd like to get another 20 gallon and was looking at them on-line but I
can't afford that right now and I hate throwing things away if they can be
fixed.
Roxanne.

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22008 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: feeder goldfish
When you buy feeders, you take your chances. Some may not even survive
the trip home. Others will die hours, days, weeks later. The 55 may
serve well as a quarantine tank, provided they are all under 2". You
will need to provide a high level of filtration, and ensure the tank is
well cycled prior to adding the fish.

As for placing them in the pond, if they are the only residents, you
might do it right away, forgoing the quarantine period in the tank. If
they are no the only inhabitants, quarantine them, until you have had
them for three consecutive weeks without any disease or parasites, then
add them to the pond. If you have any showing signs of physical
deformities, such as bent backs, crooked spines, etc., let them live out
their lives in a tank, ,feed them to another fish, or euthanize them.

I'd figure you are looking at about 20, or so, of them to make it into
the pond, a few less that will not survive the pond for very long.

I'm not trying to discourage you, just trying to be realistic. I've used
feeders to quickly stock a new pond on a couple of occasions.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of bmt1brain
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 3:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] feeder goldfish

I am thinking about getting 30 feeder goldfish to get them large enough
where they would survive in my pond and waterfall. I would be putting
them in a 55 gallon aquarium. Is this big enough. How many of the 30
would probably survive. Is there any thing special I should do for
them. HELP! Please. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22009 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/1/2007
Subject: Re: Tank repair
Thanks Lenny,
I did post a couple of weeks ago to our Freecycle for an aquarium but
received no response. That was right after you kind folks explained to
me that a ten gallon was too small for two goldfish.
I checked out Craigslist as well and there was only a 120 gallon.
Oh well, I'd rather replace the aquarium with a new one than to loose
my fish to a leak.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22010 From: Jessica Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Thanks everybody for your help!
I'll look into all the suggestions! I really appreciate it!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22011 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Thanks, Steve. So, since they are in a 10 gal. tank and the only other I have is 30 gal. should I give them to someone with a larger tank, or will the size of the tank restrict their growth. I noticed yesterday that now one of the golden is starting on a growth "spurt", too. They are just beautiful, but if I can't properly care for them, I don't want to harm them. Thanks, Cory





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22012 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
The Sacramento Bee newspaper reported that mothers are changing from
plastic bottles to glass to prevent exposure to leaching chemicals in
the plastic. Apparently this applies to us with all the plastic used
in tubing and tanks and such....has anyone thought about
this....maybe plastic leaching could factor into the health of our
fish we take care of.
Any Thoughts????....the only thing I can think to do is more water
changes...
Larry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22013 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
I know that I only use tubing that is rated for drinking water use (potable
water). If someone is using less than that, then there could be issues. I
know a regular garden hose is not suitable as it will leech polymers into
the water... especially the water that is sitting in the hose on a hot day.
I've seen pond people have fish kills as a result of topping off their pond
with a regular garden hose. If you have to use a regular garden hose, run
the water through it for a couple of minutes to flush out any leeching
polymers before using the hose to top off a pond or refill a tank. I
believe fresh carbon or something more advanced like Purigan would filter
the polymers out.

Your recommendation of more water changes is always a BIG plus for our fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Larry Nave
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals

The Sacramento Bee newspaper reported that mothers are changing from plastic
bottles to glass to prevent exposure to leaching chemicals in the plastic.
Apparently this applies to us with all the plastic used in tubing and tanks
and such....has anyone thought about this....maybe plastic leaching could
factor into the health of our fish we take care of.
Any Thoughts????....the only thing I can think to do is more water
changes...
Larry

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22014 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Vacuums
I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons
and why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22015 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
I use the Python. I hate doing the "bucket brigade" routine. Course the
obvious con with this is there is no "old tank water" to rinse off stuff
when I'm done doing maintenance. But to me that's a rather minor con as
opposed to the difference of carrying a couple pounds of hoses and plastic
compared to twenty-thirty pounds of swishing water.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacuums



I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons
and why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22016 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Python. Lots of pros. The only con is that the "siphon valve" (the part
that connects to your faucet) is made out of mostly plastic and I've had two
of them split near the top where it threads onto the faucet or the brass
adapter. It's too bad they don't make the entire "siphon valve" out of
brass.... or at least a thicker plastic.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons and
why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22017 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
One other thing. There is a DIY Python you can make and there is another
brand, Lee, that is about 30-40% less than a Python over in the UK. I'm not
sure if the Lee brand is available in the US.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

Python. Lots of pros. The only con is that the "siphon valve" (the part
that connects to your faucet) is made out of mostly plastic and I've had two
of them split near the top where it threads onto the faucet or the brass
adapter. It's too bad they don't make the entire "siphon valve" out of
brass.... or at least a thicker plastic.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons and
why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22018 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Thanks guys,
I checked out the Python and it's more than I want. I just want to
suck the gunk off the rocks and the aquariom is only 4 inches off the
floor.
What I was hoping for is some nifty little gadget I can plug in.
I save a lot of my aquarium water for my tropical plants.
(side note: Steve, very cool site. I like the biosphere)
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22019 From: joe t Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
I am thinking of two main questions, Cory. 1) What size tank are we talking about? 2) What is the duration of your "spell"? In other words, how long is it until you get the odor?

joet


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22020 From: joe t Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Sorry, I left out an important 3rd question. What do you have in the tank?

joet


---------------------------------
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Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22021 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
With the tank being just 4" off the floor, a regular siphon will not work.
I've seen some of the battery operated ones and airline tube operated ones
but they do not work as advertised. Your best bet would be a Python since
it is power assisted siphon from the water coming out of the faucet.

Or if your house is raised off the ground, you could run a long garden hose
out the back door so the end of the hose is a few feet lower than the tank
where you could get a siphon effect going.... even into a bucket. Connect
the end that would go into your tank onto a regular cheaper gravel vacuum.

How big is your tank? Do you have a canister filter on the tank? If you
do, you could use the canister intake tube as a gravel vacuum and then use
the water from the canister reservoir, mixed with some of your tank water as
your plant food. One of the canister brands actually have the gravel siphon
feature built into their canister system.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

Thanks guys,
I checked out the Python and it's more than I want. I just want to suck the
gunk off the rocks and the aquariom is only 4 inches off the floor.
What I was hoping for is some nifty little gadget I can plug in.
I save a lot of my aquarium water for my tropical plants.
(side note: Steve, very cool site. I like the biosphere) Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22022 From: Chad Plum Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
I have the Lee brand bought it about 15 years ago I just run it out side and water the plants instead of using the faucet

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: One other thing. There is a DIY Python you can make and there is another
brand, Lee, that is about 30-40% less than a Python over in the UK. I'm not
sure if the Lee brand is available in the US.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

Python. Lots of pros. The only con is that the "siphon valve" (the part
that connects to your faucet) is made out of mostly plastic and I've had two
of them split near the top where it threads onto the faucet or the brass
adapter. It's too bad they don't make the entire "siphon valve" out of
brass.... or at least a thicker plastic.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons and
why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22023 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Hi Lenny,
My tank is about 21x12x48 and I keep it a little more than half filled
with water as there are only three red claw crayfish in it.
The filter is an AquaClear 70 and a cannot see a place to use it to
vacuum the substrate.
I tried putting just a 3/4 hose on the tip of the filter but there
wasn't enough draw.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22024 From: Chad Plum Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
you should be able to get a plastic extension from your LFS are purchase a small power head to move the debrie

elementalclay@... wrote: Hi Lenny,
My tank is about 21x12x48 and I keep it a little more than half filled
with water as there are only three red claw crayfish in it.
The filter is an AquaClear 70 and a cannot see a place to use it to
vacuum the substrate.
I tried putting just a 3/4 hose on the tip of the filter but there
wasn't enough draw.
Roxanne






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22025 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
It is a 30 gal tank, get the odor about every 6 months, have gourami, swords, neon tetra, black tetra, strawberry & blueberry tetras, headlight/taillights, and 2 orange w/black tetras.....several corys and a rather large placo

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22026 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
While it's not normal to use an HOB for vacuuming purposes, it could be
done. You would have to put the AC70 on a plastic tub or large square
bucket outside the tank. Then you would have to get a gravel vacuum with
the hose that would fit over the AC70 filter intake. Fill the AC70
reservoir and then prime the gravel vacuum siphon hose and turn it on. The
AC70 should provide enough suction to vacuum your gravel. Since it would be
on the tub/bucket, the dirty water would go into the bucket (remove your
filter media first). I've never actually done this but in principle, it
should work.

The main thing you would have to get use to is priming the gravel vacuum
tube. You would want the discharge end of the siphon hose going down into
the bucket/tub and then back up to the AC70 intake. And the bucket should
be on the floor so as the hose comes up over the edge of the tank, it would
then go down into the bottom of the bucket and then up to the intake. This
would provide a little siphon effect to assist the AC70's additional siphon
from the pump.

Your only cost for this would be the right sized gravel vacuum so the hose
fits snugly over your intake. They do have easy to remove clamps that could
tighten down the hose a little if it's a little too big but if the hose is
too big, you would be out of luck. Bring a section of the intake tube with
you to get the right size gravel vacuum.

I see you tried 3/4" hose on the intake but you may not have primed the hose
first. If you sink the hose to fill it with water, the AC70 should be able
to get the suction going but I would think you would need to fully prime it
like with a normal gravel siphon. Moving the AC70 off of the tank to a
lower spot so that some of the hose would come down over the edge of the
tank should help get a better siphon effect. The downside of doing this and
returning the water to your tank is it could be pretty dirty and your
filtration may not remove all of the dirt so your water column would get
cloudy. If the AC70 was off your tank on the tub/bucket, the dirty water
would go into the bucket. You could try it with just the hose on the AC70
intake first but you would have to lay the hose down in the water first so
the hose fills up with water and get the AC70 going first before lifting up
part of the hose to move it. Keep the open end under water or you would
lose the siphon effect.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 2:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

Hi Lenny,
My tank is about 21x12x48 and I keep it a little more than half filled with
water as there are only three red claw crayfish in it.
The filter is an AquaClear 70 and a cannot see a place to use it to vacuum
the substrate.
I tried putting just a 3/4 hose on the tip of the filter but there wasn't
enough draw.
Roxanne

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22027 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
The Pleco is definitely TOO BIG for a 30G tank. If it's a common pleco and
from your description, it probably is, they need 75G++ as a minimum since
they grow to 18". Some people arrange with their LFS to bring them back
every 6 months to a year for a new baby one. The LFS can sell the larger
one to someone setting up a BIG tank with cichlids or other aggressive fish.

How many Gourami's and what kind?

Based on what you have listed so far, you should be doing at least weekly
25% PWC's and vacuuming your gravel really good each time as Pleco's are
big-time poopers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 3:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about fish odor

It is a 30 gal tank, get the odor about every 6 months, have gourami,
swords, neon tetra, black tetra, strawberry & blueberry tetras,
headlight/taillights, and 2 orange w/black tetras.....several corys and a
rather large placo

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22028 From: Peaches Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Vacumn Question (Python)
Hello Everyone

I was glad to see the vacu mn question come up today as I was wondering about it myself. I had just purchased a Python vac and went and looked at it and sure enough, I do have the brass faucet adaptor. I just hooked it up to my faucet to make sure. I called the number on the web site as well and they said that they do sell the brass faucet adaptor. I just thought I would send this in because I thought mine was brass. The lady said that Pet smart always sells the ones with the brass fuacet adaptor and she called it an "upgrade". I thought it might help those with the plastic ones to know they can get another adaptor:)

hugs
Peaches

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22029 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
Your entire faucet adaptor and siphon valve is brass and then the clear hose
connects to the brass? Or does the clear hose connect to green plastic?

Every one that I've seen in stores and online is the green plastic. I know
there is the little brass adaptor that the green plastic siphon valve
connects to the faucet, but it's the green plastic siphon vortex funnel,
right under the top hose connector fitting that splits at the top of the
threads. This piece is not visible without breaking down the "Faucet Siphon
Valve".

I've uploaded a few pics to my webshots album to show one I recently tried
to repair by epoxying the split. Both of my previous green plastic ones
split in the same spot. I never tried to fix the first one. This one, I'm
saving in the event of an emergency if my new one breaks beyond repair.

Start here at Pic 11 and click through Pic 15 for images...
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2060032240070613611kUdmxF

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 5:43 PM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacumn Question (Python)

Hello Everyone

I was glad to see the vacu mn question come up today as I was wondering
about it myself. I had just purchased a Python vac and went and looked at it
and sure enough, I do have the brass faucet adaptor. I just hooked it up to
my faucet to make sure. I called the number on the web site as well and they
said that they do sell the brass faucet adaptor. I just thought I would send
this in because I thought mine was brass. The lady said that Pet smart
always sells the ones with the brass fuacet adaptor and she called it an
"upgrade". I thought it might help those with the plastic ones to know they
can get another adaptor:)

hugs
Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22030 From: Peaches Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

Your entire faucet adaptor and siphon valve is brass and then the clear hose connects to the brass? Or does the clear hose connect to green plastic?

Every one that I've seen in stores and online is the green plastic. I know there is the little brass adaptor that the green plastic siphon valve connects to the faucet, but it's the green plastic siphon vortex funnel, right under the top hose connector fitting that splits at the top of the threads. This piece is not visible without breaking down the "Faucet Siphon Valve".
I've uploaded a few pics to my webshots album to show one I recently tried to repair by epoxying the split. Both of my previous green plastic ones split in the same spot. I never tried to fix the first one. This one, I'm saving in the event of an emergency if my new one breaks beyond repair.

Start here at Pic 11 and click through Pic 15 for images... http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2060032240070613611kUdmxF

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 5:43 PM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacumn Question (Python)

Hello Everyone

I was glad to see the vacu mn question come up today as I was wondering about it myself. I had just purchased a Python vac and went and looked at it and sure enough, I do have the brass faucet adaptor. I just hooked it up to my faucet to make sure. I called the number on the web site as well and they said that they do sell the brass faucet adaptor. I just thought I would send this in because I thought mine was brass. The lady said that Pet smart always sells the ones with the brass fuacet adaptor and she called it an "upgrade". I thought it might help those with the plastic ones to know they can get another adaptor:)

hugs Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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I'm Sorry,

You're right:)
The green part is plastic. I am sorry. I didn't mean to give false information:( BAD PEACH1!! Another thing is I have seen the Lee gravel vac in the US. I believe at PetSmart And Petco. I know I have seen it other places as well but just can't remember them all.

i am sorry if I confused anyone. I always confuse myself anyways:)

I am excited today because I am counting down to Friday when I get my first fish. i have worked so hard on a fixed income to get all my supplies and now finally after about six months of buying supplies it is time for me to get some wet friends.

I know, I know, uuuuuhhoooohhh lots of newbie questions coming but I will try to be good:)

This group has been so much help to me and I only hope that someday I will be able to help others like everyone here has helped me.

hugs
Peaches

+++ I'd Let My Mind Wander.....But It's Too little to Go Out Alone:) +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22031 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacumn Question (Python)
OK. So the moral to this story is DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the Green Plastic
section to the brass faucet adaptor or to a regular faucet and DO NOT pull
on the hose to where it pulls on the green plastic "Faucet Siphon Valve"
section as that small threaded vortex siphon funnel piece will split. I've
seen this same complaint from others.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

Peaches wrote:

I'm Sorry,

You're right:)
The green part is plastic. I am sorry. I didn't mean to give false
information:( BAD PEACH1!! Another thing is I have seen the Lee gravel vac
in the US. I believe at PetSmart And Petco. I know I have seen it other
places as well but just can't remember them all.

i am sorry if I confused anyone. I always confuse myself anyways:)

I am excited today because I am counting down to Friday when I get my first
fish. i have worked so hard on a fixed income to get all my supplies and now
finally after about six months of buying supplies it is time for me to get
some wet friends.

I know, I know, uuuuuhhoooohhh lots of newbie questions coming but I will
try to be good:)

This group has been so much help to me and I only hope that someday I will
be able to help others like everyone here has helped me.

hugs
Peaches

+++ I'd Let My Mind Wander.....But It's Too little to Go Out Alone:) +++



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:27 PM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Vacumn Question (Python)

Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

Your entire faucet adaptor and siphon valve is brass and then the clear hose
connects to the brass? Or does the clear hose connect to green plastic?

Every one that I've seen in stores and online is the green plastic. I know
there is the little brass adaptor that the green plastic siphon valve
connects to the faucet, but it's the green plastic siphon vortex funnel,
right under the top hose connector fitting that splits at the top of the
threads. This piece is not visible without breaking down the "Faucet Siphon
Valve".
I've uploaded a few pics to my webshots album to show one I recently tried
to repair by epoxying the split. Both of my previous green plastic ones
split in the same spot. I never tried to fix the first one. This one, I'm
saving in the event of an emergency if my new one breaks beyond repair.

Start here at Pic 11 and click through Pic 15 for images...
http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2060032240070613611kUdmxF

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Wednesday, May 02,
2007 5:43 PM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Vacumn Question (Python)

Hello Everyone

I was glad to see the vacu mn question come up today as I was wondering
about it myself. I had just purchased a Python vac and went and looked at it
and sure enough, I do have the brass faucet adaptor. I just hooked it up to
my faucet to make sure. I called the number on the web site as well and they
said that they do sell the brass faucet adaptor. I just thought I would send
this in because I thought mine was brass. The lady said that Pet smart
always sells the ones with the brass fuacet adaptor and she called it an
"upgrade". I thought it might help those with the plastic ones to know they
can get another adaptor:)

hugs Peaches


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22032 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
cons.maybe the cost.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 12:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums



I would like to know what kind you folks are using, the pros and cons
and why you prefer the kind you do.
I need to buy one and don't know what kind.
Thanks much,
Roxanne





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22033 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals
Lenny,
Don't use regular garden hoses at all. Get the all rubber GoodYear hose, they are red.
It is all I use now, a friend used a regular garden hose and killed off several thousand dollars in cichlids. Yes, with water flowing through the hose enough to count as rinsing it before hand.

I was at Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco a couple months ago, and I could see they were using the same Good Year rubber hoses that I and my friend use. They also use Ebo jager heaters and some of the same aquarium accesories that we use. Nice to see that are of good enough quality for a Public aquarium and Science academy to use.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: GoldLenny@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 2 May 2007 8:49 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Plastic tubing and tanks leaching chemicals


I know that I only use tubing that is rated for drinking water use (potable
water). If someone is using less than that, then there could be issues. I
know a regular garden hose is not suitable as it will leech polymers into
the water... especially the water that is sitting in the hose on a hot day.
I've seen pond people have fish kills as a result of topping off their pond
with a regular garden hose. If you have to use a regular garden hose, run
the water through it for a couple of minutes to flush out any leeching
polymers before using the hose to top off a pond or refill a tank. I
believe fresh carbon or something more advanced like Purigan would filter
the polymers out.

Your recommendation of more water changes is always a BIG plus for our fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22034 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
Nothing I tried worked. I bought a small Lee syphon vacuum and that
didn't work.
I should have asked you folks before ever set up the tank.
The only thing I can think of is to find enough containers to save
about half the water in, remove the crayfish and substrate, build a
higher platform and replace it all.
Trust me, I won't make this mistake again.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22035 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Vacuums
If you are handy or know someone who is, you can build a DIY tank stand for
around $20.00. I have the details and pictures on my blog for the one I did
for my 65G. Scroll down and click the link on the right side. I've also
seen people use cinder blocks and wooden shelving to build a stand. Since
you only fill your tank 1/2 way, you could probably use cinder blocks and
wooden shelving.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 8:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Vacuums

Nothing I tried worked. I bought a small Lee syphon vacuum and that didn't
work.
I should have asked you folks before ever set up the tank.
The only thing I can think of is to find enough containers to save about
half the water in, remove the crayfish and substrate, build a higher
platform and replace it all.
Trust me, I won't make this mistake again.
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/784 - Release Date: 5/1/2007 2:57
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22036 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/2/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Put them in the 30 to start. This will buy you some time to locate and
get a 55 or larger tank set up for them. If you have a freecycle group
in your area, check it out. The one I have offers tanks and such in
spurts. If there is a craigslist near you, check that out also. Both can
be sources for free or inexpensive setups.

A warning about buying used equipment: most have an inflated view of the
value of their equipment. Try to see tanks with water in them. Be wary
of electrical equipment, especially if it is dirty or looks misused. Try
to see it working prior to handing the money over.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question about Black Angel Fish

Thanks, Steve. So, since they are in a 10 gal. tank and the only other
I have is 30 gal. should I give them to someone with a larger tank, or
will the size of the tank restrict their growth. I noticed yesterday
that now one of the golden is starting on a growth "spurt", too. They
are just beautiful, but if I can't properly care for them, I don't want
to harm them. Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22037 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Black Angel Fish
Thanks, Steve, for the advice


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 3, 2007 1:03:17 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Question about Black Angel Fish

Put them in the 30 to start. This will buy you some time to locate and
get a 55 or larger tank set up for them. If you have a freecycle group
in your area, check it out. The one I have offers tanks and such in
spurts. If there is a craigslist near you, check that out also. Both can
be sources for free or inexpensive setups.

A warning about buying used equipment: most have an inflated view of the
value of their equipment. Try to see tanks with water in them. Be wary
of electrical equipment, especially if it is dirty or looks misused. Try
to see it working prior to handing the money over.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question about Black Angel Fish

Thanks, Steve. So, since they are in a 10 gal. tank and the only other
I have is 30 gal. should I give them to someone with a larger tank, or
will the size of the tank restrict their growth. I noticed yesterday
that now one of the golden is starting on a growth "spurt", too. They
are just beautiful, but if I can't properly care for them, I don't want
to harm them. Thanks, Cory



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22038 From: joe t Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Sounds like your tank is too crowded, Cory. A 30 gallon tank is really not that large to be keeping a big pleco. Goramies can get pretty big, too. I'm thinking the tetras you can probably get away with. But you have to make sure the filtration you are using is adequate to take the load of all those fish. I agree with Lenny. You should do a PWC at least once a week. 15 to 25 percent water changes should do it if you keep it up religiously.

Also consider, if you have decorations like rocks, gravel, etc. they take up some volume so you really don't have a full 30 gallons of water. The more fish you have in there, that's a whole lot of living processes you have going on in there; breathing, excretions, energy exertion. In nature, don't forget, that environment (the water) is being replenished constantly. And if your over feeding I'm sure that's contributing to the water going foul faster.

BTW, your question about the angel fish that Steve answered I agree with wholeheartedly. I had a pure black -----and I mean BLACK -------angel fish for almost 5 years. He got enormous. The "plague" Steve was talking about put an end --so far-- to getting angels of that color any more. There are some coming back that the breeders are claiming as black, but not the rich black that I'm referring to.

Hey, while I'm at it! Steve, Lenny, anybody, have you come across any real black angels? I would love to get some.

joet


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22039 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two
10s and two 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more
in wasted water than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on
my back. It would not be convient to drain the water out a door or
window. As far as cleaning things in tank water I do use a bucket that
I syphon into to rinse things that need to be rinsed and replaced. I
just syphon a couple of gallons into a bucket before I set up the
phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22040 From: Kevin Batey Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
I don't understand the wasted water - I'm probably not getting how the python works exactly...

dreammaker2623 <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two
10s and two 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more
in wasted water than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on
my back. It would not be convient to drain the water out a door or
window. As far as cleaning things in tank water I do use a bucket that
I syphon into to rinse things that need to be rinsed and replaced. I
just syphon a couple of gallons into a bucket before I set up the
phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22041 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
I have had pure blacks that were more aggressive than any other
angelfish except the true wild ones. But in general if you breed a
pure black to a pure balck you will get fish that will not grow as
large as other angels. What a lot of breeders do to get good black
angels is to cross black lace to black lace. This way you will get
silvers, blAck lace and black angels.It will be abouT 1/4 silver,
1/2 black lace and the other 1/4 will be black.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like your tank is too crowded, Cory. A 30 gallon tank is
really not that large to be keeping a big pleco. Goramies can get
pretty big, too. I'm thinking the tetras you can probably get away
with. But you have to make sure the filtration you are using is
adequate to take the load of all those fish. I agree with Lenny.
You should do a PWC at least once a week. 15 to 25 percent water
changes should do it if you keep it up religiously.
>
> Also consider, if you have decorations like rocks, gravel, etc.
they take up some volume so you really don't have a full 30 gallons
of water. The more fish you have in there, that's a whole lot of
living processes you have going on in there; breathing, excretions,
energy exertion. In nature, don't forget, that environment (the
water) is being replenished constantly. And if your over feeding
I'm sure that's contributing to the water going foul faster.
>
> BTW, your question about the angel fish that Steve answered I
agree with wholeheartedly. I had a pure black -----and I mean
BLACK -------angel fish for almost 5 years. He got enormous.
The "plague" Steve was talking about put an end --so far-- to
getting angels of that color any more. There are some coming back
that the breeders are claiming as black, but not the rich black that
I'm referring to.
>
> Hey, while I'm at it! Steve, Lenny, anybody, have you come across
any real black angels? I would love to get some.
>
> joet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22042 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA and the
world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local water
utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents a month
to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge that
much more for water?

I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious water issues
but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill? It seems a
shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop taking
showers because your water bill is high! :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22043 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
If you want the full siphon effect of the Python, you would keep your cold
water running while doing your gravel vacuum.. like a power assisted siphon.
That's how I do it. The cold water and the tank water go down the drain.
Other people just use the long Python hose and run it out a window or door
to drain into their gardens. Then they are not using cold water power to
make the siphon stronger.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin Batey
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 11:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I don't understand the wasted water - I'm probably not getting how the
python works exactly...

dreammaker2623 <dreammaker2623@... <mailto:dreammaker2623%40yahoo.com>
> wrote:
I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22044 From: Jerry Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
For me, it cost 16 Canadian cents to pump 1000 gal. from my well.


Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 3 mai 2007 13:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Cost of Water (was vacuums)

I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA and the
world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local water
utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents a month
to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge that
much more for water?

I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious water issues
but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill? It seems a
shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop taking
showers because your water bill is high! :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22045 From: Suzi Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I live in USA, in my area, our bill comes every couple of months.
On my bill is also fee for sewage, refuse... othe misc stuff. I pay
$54 every bill. I pretty much use the same amount all of the time...
including watering my garden when it's my day to water. I don't worry
about the aquariums water change.. I do it and not complain if it costs me
a few extra cents. Apartment renters don't pay water bill.. those that own
their
home and apartment buildings do pay for the water bill. Unless you own a
Condo,
then you pay your own water bill too. I don't know about other states, I
live in Illinois.

---
Suzi


-------Original Message-------

From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Date: 05/03/07 12:40:57
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cost of Water (was vacuums)

I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA and the
world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local water
utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents a month
to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge that
much more for water?

I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious water issues
but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill? It seems a
shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop taking
showers because your water bill is high! :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22046 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
-----Original Message-----
I am not sure what exactly I pay for water per gallon but my monthly water
bill runs about 30-35 dollars a month (I live in Arkansas). I think the
extra cost just goes along with having live animals. We bath the horses
during the summer, dump the water troughs and refill them and water the
extensive landscape.

PWC is just a nature of the beast so to say to keep your animals healthy. I
would rather lose more water than I'd like trying to get the goop out of the
bottom than spend the same amount of time and not clean as well as I could.
I have plecos and goldfish and boooyyy do they poop!

Lovin my poop monsters!
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22047 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I have a well, so no cost except electricity for the pump. But I also
wonder how much is really wasted. I know the water is running to keep the
siphon action going, but tank water is also running down the drain. I keep
thinking that not so, so much well water is accompanying it (the hose can
only pass a certain amount of water through...isn't some or most of it the
old tank water?).

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 1:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cost of Water (was vacuums)

I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA and the
world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local water
utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents a month
to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge that
much more for water?

I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious water issues
but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill? It seems a
shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop taking
showers because your water bill is high! :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22048 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am
unsure of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date:
5/2/2007 2:16
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22049 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
-I use the Python myself but have found that my water pressure is not
enough to do a good job. So I have to run it out the door.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> If you want the full siphon effect of the Python, you would keep
your cold
> water running while doing your gravel vacuum.. like a power
assisted siphon.
> That's how I do it. The cold water and the tank water go down the
drain.
> Other people just use the long Python hose and run it out a window
or door
> to drain into their gardens. Then they are not using cold water
power to
> make the siphon stronger.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Kevin Batey
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 11:10 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I don't understand the wasted water - I'm probably not getting how
the
> python works exactly...
>
> dreammaker2623 <dreammaker2623@... <mailto:dreammaker2623%
40yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date:
5/2/2007 2:16
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22050 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Oh how I miss having a well.

Mem

> For me, it cost 16 Canadian cents to pump 1000 gal. from my well.
>
>
> Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22051 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Hi Mem,

But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two months?)
for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?

Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still probably
only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of lugging
buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the Python...
especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry tank, it
wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank, it saves
me a ton of time... and time is money! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am unsure
of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22052 From: Memrie Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
It is for one month and the entire home. I am in South Carolina/USA.

Mem

> Hi Mem,
>
> But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two
months?)
> for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?
>
> Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still
probably
> only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of
lugging
> buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the
Python...
> especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry
tank, it
> wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank,
it saves
> me a ton of time... and time is money! :D
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
> -Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am
unsure
> of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.
>
> Mem
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the
USA
> and the
> > world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
> water
> > utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
> 6,000
> > gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
> cents a month
> > to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
> that
> > much more for water?
> >
> > I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
> water issues
> > but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
> It seems a
> > shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
> taking
> > showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
> >
> > I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that
is
> wasted
> > in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
> and two
> > 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
> water
> > than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
> would not
> > be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
> cleaning
> > things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
> things
> > that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
> gallons into
> > a bucket before I set up the phyton.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
> any
> > > cons.maybe the cost.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date:
5/2/2007 2:16
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22053 From: Jerry Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Mem, it's not all well water who are safe to use with fish, especially the
deep one drill in the rock. I strongly suggest for the health of the fish
and the human to made also a element analyst of the water, before drink or
use the water for fish, tolerance for some metal are not the same for fish
an human, a certified water for human use can kill fish, but here I can say
the same from Tap water, but usually people who use Tap water add some stuff
to remove chlorine, and this stuff contain often chelator who neutralize the
metal.

An interesting reading on the subject is "Water Quality for Freshwater Fish"
Gwyneth Howells


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 3 mai 2007 20:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Oh how I miss having a well.

Mem

> For me, it cost 16 Canadian cents to pump 1000 gal. from my well.
>
>
> Gerard




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22054 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/3/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Joet,

All the black angels I've seen get marked down by me if I am judging the class. Beyond that, I've not really paid attention to what is available in the stores. I don't recall seeing any on the auction tables lately, either.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about fish odor

Sounds like your tank is too crowded, Cory. A 30 gallon tank is really not that large to be keeping a big pleco. Goramies can get pretty big, too. I'm thinking the tetras you can probably get away with. But you have to make sure the filtration you are using is adequate to take the load of all those fish. I agree with Lenny. You should do a PWC at least once a week. 15 to 25 percent water changes should do it if you keep it up religiously.

Also consider, if you have decorations like rocks, gravel, etc. they take up some volume so you really don't have a full 30 gallons of water. The more fish you have in there, that's a whole lot of living processes you have going on in there; breathing, excretions, energy exertion. In nature, don't forget, that environment (the water) is being replenished constantly. And if your over feeding I'm sure that's contributing to the water going foul faster.

BTW, your question about the angel fish that Steve answered I agree with wholeheartedly. I had a pure black -----and I mean BLACK -------angel fish for almost 5 years. He got enormous. The "plague" Steve was talking about put an end --so far-- to getting angels of that color any more. There are some coming back that the breeders are claiming as black, but not the rich black that I'm referring to.

Hey, while I'm at it! Steve, Lenny, anybody, have you come across any real black angels? I would love to get some.

joet


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22055 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I live in rural New York, in the middle of the 2 largest Finger Lakes,
and my water bill is about $75 every three months. So about $25 per
month. There is a minimum charge of $15 just for living in the village,
then anything extra is on top of that. We have three 10 Gal fish tanks,
3 people, and 2 dogs in this house, so I don't know how much that
affected the water bill. It was a much more noticable change in the
electric bill ($10 per month per tank!) Hope this helps to answer your
question.

Karen


> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents
a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22056 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Hi Lenny, Your water cost is fairly reasonable, compared to this
part of the country (northern New Jersey), since what you're saying
comes out to be around $11.96 for your total charges, if you were to
use the full allotment of 6000 (if I understand you correctly --
$4.94 for 6000 gallons, plus a utilities charge of $1.17 per 1000
gallons, adding $7.02 to the $4.94).

In North Jersey, our billing is such that there is an
$11.91 "Facilities Charge" up front, regardless of the amount of
water used; the "Water Charge" is then added to it. The Facilities
Charge is the cost of getting the water from the source (in our case,
reservoirs) to the home (pumping station, water main infrastructure,
etc.). The water charges are based on usage in increments of 100
cubic feet (748 gallons), as a "Unit", at $2.425 -- or let's say
$2.43 per Unit. This can add up fast, depending on how much water
you're changing.

Fortunately, I use very little of my tap water for fish, as I have my
own private well (tested and potable), which my fish thrive in, but
if I were to use it, I can give you some idea of what it would cost.
My hatchery contains about 2500 - 2600 gallons, so if I were to do
1/3 water changes weekly, that would amount to changing out 833
gallons per week (on the minimum of 2500 total gallons), or 3,332
gallons per month. This is equivilent to 4.45 "Units" (445 Cu. Ft.
or 4.45 x 748 gallons). Since this is over 4 Units, you are
automatically charged for another full Unit (no fairness there). So,
at $2.43 per Unit, this comes out to $12.15 for actual water used
(Water Charge), plus the standard $11.91 Facilities Charge, for a
total of $23.06. The 6000 gallons that you're allowed to use for
$11.96 would cost $33.78 here.

There is a fair number of aquarists in this area who have equally
large fish rooms and/or hatcheries, most of which are not so
fortunate as to have their own well and who must rely on their tap
water as their only water source; I do have to pity them. Jeff
Rapps, for instance, who resides in western New Jersey had about the
same size facilities as me until he expanded to about 10,000 gallons
a few years ago. I can't imagine how much water he must go through.
I've never asked him what his water source is, but I sure hope he's
using a well.

So you can see, this can get prohibitively expensive, but then I
doubt very many fish fanciers around here having sizeable set-ups use
Pythons (or could afford to use them), not to mention the water
conservation issues when it comes to wastefully running all that tap
water right down the drain just to make water changing easy for the
hobbyist. We all have some sort of water pumping system, whether
automatic water changing or not, using electric pumps at least for
removing water and, as in my case, for adding water if not drawn
directly from the tap. Regards, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date:
5/2/2007 2:16
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22057 From: Memrie Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Whew, I am sure glad you did the math for me as I was never good at
math. But boy did I get a little confused.

mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Lenny, Your water cost is fairly reasonable, compared to this
> part of the country (northern New Jersey), since what you're saying
> comes out to be around $11.96 for your total charges, if you were
to
> use the full allotment of 6000 (if I understand you correctly --
> $4.94 for 6000 gallons, plus a utilities charge of $1.17 per 1000
> gallons, adding $7.02 to the $4.94).
>
> In North Jersey, our billing is such that there is an
> $11.91 "Facilities Charge" up front, regardless of the amount of
> water used; the "Water Charge" is then added to it. The Facilities
> Charge is the cost of getting the water from the source (in our
case,
> reservoirs) to the home (pumping station, water main
infrastructure,
> etc.). The water charges are based on usage in increments of 100
> cubic feet (748 gallons), as a "Unit", at $2.425 -- or let's say
> $2.43 per Unit. This can add up fast, depending on how much water
> you're changing.
>
> Fortunately, I use very little of my tap water for fish, as I have
my
> own private well (tested and potable), which my fish thrive in, but
> if I were to use it, I can give you some idea of what it would
cost.
> My hatchery contains about 2500 - 2600 gallons, so if I were to do
> 1/3 water changes weekly, that would amount to changing out 833
> gallons per week (on the minimum of 2500 total gallons), or 3,332
> gallons per month. This is equivilent to 4.45 "Units" (445 Cu. Ft.
> or 4.45 x 748 gallons). Since this is over 4 Units, you are
> automatically charged for another full Unit (no fairness there).
So,
> at $2.43 per Unit, this comes out to $12.15 for actual water used
> (Water Charge), plus the standard $11.91 Facilities Charge, for a
> total of $23.06. The 6000 gallons that you're allowed to use for
> $11.96 would cost $33.78 here.
>
> There is a fair number of aquarists in this area who have equally
> large fish rooms and/or hatcheries, most of which are not so
> fortunate as to have their own well and who must rely on their tap
> water as their only water source; I do have to pity them. Jeff
> Rapps, for instance, who resides in western New Jersey had about
the
> same size facilities as me until he expanded to about 10,000
gallons
> a few years ago. I can't imagine how much water he must go
through.
> I've never asked him what his water source is, but I sure hope he's
> using a well.
>
> So you can see, this can get prohibitively expensive, but then I
> doubt very many fish fanciers around here having sizeable set-ups
use
> Pythons (or could afford to use them), not to mention the water
> conservation issues when it comes to wastefully running all that
tap
> water right down the drain just to make water changing easy for the
> hobbyist. We all have some sort of water pumping system, whether
> automatic water changing or not, using electric pumps at least for
> removing water and, as in my case, for adding water if not drawn
> directly from the tap. Regards, Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the
USA
> and the
> > world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
> water
> > utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
> 6,000
> > gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
> cents a month
> > to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really
charge
> that
> > much more for water?
> >
> > I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
> water issues
> > but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
> It seems a
> > shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
> taking
> > showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
> >
> > I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that
is
> wasted
> > in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two
10s
> and two
> > 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in
wasted
> water
> > than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
> would not
> > be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
> cleaning
> > things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to
rinse
> things
> > that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
> gallons into
> > a bucket before I set up the phyton.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
> any
> > > cons.maybe the cost.
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date:
> 5/2/2007 2:16
> > PM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22058 From: dmctjc Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
After reading about your metered water, I now appreciate my city water.
I live outside of Albany, NY and my city water comes from a huge
aquafer. Towns and cities around me have had water restrictions put
into place almost every Summer, but, no one can remember the last one
we had. I'm still careful about water conservation and since I've
increased my aquariums since last Summer I plan to use 'old' aquarium
water for my flowers and plants.

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22059 From: dmctjc Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Angel community tank
I have 3 young angels in a 30 gal tank. I'm getting a 55 gal tank
tomorrow specifically with the thought of some place to put 1 angel
when 2 become a pair. I want to have a beautiful, peaceful home ready
for the odd angel. Any suggestion as to what I can put in it? The only
other fish that I'd really love to have in the tank, but, will forget
about if it won't work, is either 1 male Betta or several female Bettas.

Many thanks for the suggestions!
Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22060 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I too run the python out the door or down the tub. To make the hose longer go to a farm store and get a couple of inches of hose just one size large than the python hose and then get as much clear hose as you need to run the water where ever you want it. My roses just love fish water. I also feed the roses with mix of half sugar and half miracle grow every week or so. If got huge roses all season.
Please put the URL for the article. Thanks, Gail



Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
May 10% discount code is flowers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22061 From: Jerry Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Angel community tank
Donna if you look for a 55 gal. may be you can look also for a 75 , they
take the same place 4', but have more deep, it's make a huge different when
it's time to decor it, and Angel will appreciate also the space. The price
difference is few. The Angels ( they are not so after all ) will clip the
fins of the Betta. If you want have something a little bit different of
Pleco and Corry , you can use Sturisoma, they will get ride of the algae and
they do not came huge like a Pleco, you can place few Botia, (rostrata or
striata) they will fix snail problem and clean the bottom.

Just my idea

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de dmctjc
Envoyé : 4 mai 2007 14:17
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Angel community tank

I have 3 young angels in a 30 gal tank. I'm getting a 55 gal tank
tomorrow specifically with the thought of some place to put 1 angel
when 2 become a pair. I want to have a beautiful, peaceful home ready
for the odd angel. Any suggestion as to what I can put in it? The only
other fish that I'd really love to have in the tank, but, will forget
about if it won't work, is either 1 male Betta or several female Bettas.

Many thanks for the suggestions!
Donna



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22062 From: DB1RDMAN@WMCONNECT.COM Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Digest Number 2020 - [SPAM] ???????????????
In a message dated 5/4/07 8:16:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com writes:

> 2.1. Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
> Posted by: "dreammaker2623" dreammaker2623@... dreammaker2623
> Date: Thu May 3, 2007 8:57 am ((PDT))
>
I asked this on another group and never got an answer.
I'm curious: Why do people put [SPAM] in their subject line ?????????
Or is that automatically put in by the program or ISP ?????????? </HTML>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22063 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Ray,

Here is a link to my public utility fee schedule. The table for my area of
Jefferson Parish is titled "Water Consumption" (without any specific city
listed behind it). It is about 80% down on the page.
https://jp-appserver.jeffparish.net/waterbill/UtilityRates.htm

Unfortunately, as you will see from that page, there are many other charges
added to our "Water Bills" as another way to force people to pay taxes and
big government fees... above and beyond all of the other taxes we pay. :(
(I know you guys up there are reamed even worse!)

The most we pay is $1.17 per 1,000 gallons if we go over our base usage
amount. The base rate is $4.94 for up to 6,000 gallons every two months and
if we go over the 6,000 gallon level, then we pay the $1.17 per 1,000
gallons. I just thought I would use the "maximum" amount we would pay...
but I guess if we only use 100G in two months, we would be paying $4.94 for
100G. I never go over the 6,000 gallons so my base water bill charge is
$2.47/per month billed every two months at $4.74.

I didn't count the other fixed fees, meter charges, etc., in the cost of
water as those fees are charged whether we have fish tanks or not.

Based on your paragraph about paying $2.45 for 748 gallons ($3.28 per 1,000
gallons), you guys are paying close to 3X's the amount we pay.
Unfortunately, we all know the Northeast and California have much higher
costs of living which results in much higher taxes for everything you folks
are forced to pay.

I still think for the average aquarist, with 1-5 tanks, the time savings
(and backaches prevented) make using the Python a very affordable option.
Even if it cost an extra $1.00 to $3.00 per month (a very high estimate), it
would be worth it to me in the time saved on doing weekly PWC's on my three
tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 9:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Hi Lenny, Your water cost is fairly reasonable, compared to this part of the
country (northern New Jersey), since what you're saying comes out to be
around $11.96 for your total charges, if you were to use the full allotment
of 6000 (if I understand you correctly --
$4.94 for 6000 gallons, plus a utilities charge of $1.17 per 1000 gallons,
adding $7.02 to the $4.94).

In North Jersey, our billing is such that there is an
$11.91 "Facilities Charge" up front, regardless of the amount of water used;
the "Water Charge" is then added to it. The Facilities Charge is the cost of
getting the water from the source (in our case,
reservoirs) to the home (pumping station, water main infrastructure, etc.).
The water charges are based on usage in increments of 100 cubic feet (748
gallons), as a "Unit", at $2.425 -- or let's say
$2.43 per Unit. This can add up fast, depending on how much water you're
changing.

Fortunately, I use very little of my tap water for fish, as I have my own
private well (tested and potable), which my fish thrive in, but if I were to
use it, I can give you some idea of what it would cost.
My hatchery contains about 2500 - 2600 gallons, so if I were to do
1/3 water changes weekly, that would amount to changing out 833 gallons per
week (on the minimum of 2500 total gallons), or 3,332 gallons per month.
This is equivilent to 4.45 "Units" (445 Cu. Ft.
or 4.45 x 748 gallons). Since this is over 4 Units, you are automatically
charged for another full Unit (no fairness there). So, at $2.43 per Unit,
this comes out to $12.15 for actual water used (Water Charge), plus the
standard $11.91 Facilities Charge, for a total of $23.06. The 6000 gallons
that you're allowed to use for
$11.96 would cost $33.78 here.

There is a fair number of aquarists in this area who have equally large fish
rooms and/or hatcheries, most of which are not so fortunate as to have their
own well and who must rely on their tap water as their only water source; I
do have to pity them. Jeff Rapps, for instance, who resides in western New
Jersey had about the same size facilities as me until he expanded to about
10,000 gallons a few years ago. I can't imagine how much water he must go
through.
I've never asked him what his water source is, but I sure hope he's using a
well.

So you can see, this can get prohibitively expensive, but then I doubt very
many fish fanciers around here having sizeable set-ups use Pythons (or could
afford to use them), not to mention the water conservation issues when it
comes to wastefully running all that tap water right down the drain just to
make water changing easy for the hobbyist. We all have some sort of water
pumping system, whether automatic water changing or not, using electric
pumps at least for removing water and, as in my case, for adding water if
not drawn directly from the tap. Regards, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22064 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2020 - [SPAM] ???????????????
Some people have programs (software) on their own computers that "flag"
certain messages as potential [SPAM] to be screened by the users. They
could probably change the filtering in their programs so these messages
would no longer be flagged as [SPAM] but it's the user's choice... I guess.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of DB1RDMAN@...
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 2:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Digest Number 2020 - [SPAM] ???????????????

In a message dated 5/4/07 8:16:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> writes:

> 2.1. Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
> Posted by: "dreammaker2623" dreammaker2623@...
> <mailto:dreammaker2623%40yahoo.com> dreammaker2623
> Date: Thu May 3, 2007 8:57 am ((PDT))
>
I asked this on another group and never got an answer.
I'm curious: Why do people put [SPAM] in their subject line ?????????
Or is that automatically put in by the program or ISP ?????????? </HTML>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22065 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three months is about
250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house. part of
the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive. i just a
floor drain and fill from a utility sink!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)


Hi Mem,

But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two months?)
for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?

Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still probably
only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of lugging
buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the Python...
especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry tank, it
wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank, it saves
me a ton of time... and time is money! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am unsure
of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/785 - Release Date: 5/2/2007 2:16
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22066 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Aquarium source
After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I
finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22067 From: Memrie Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Good idea, I will be calling them first thing monday!

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I
> finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
> Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22068 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I used to work for the city of Marlboro "Taxachussetts" in the water
department of the DPW. Whemn the bills went out the water rate
included an equal ammount for the sewer. some business woudl put in
two water meters, one for water that would find it's way down to the
sewer and the other for water that would not reach the sewer such as
watering a lawn or such. Maybe if the water bill is high then large
fish rooms could replumb so that the "waste" water woud be used for
watering the lawn or garden or other things plus when selling fish you
need to put water in with them. You could have a second meter for the
fish room and watering the lawn to help cut cost of the high cost of
water.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin E Boyle" <kvnbyl@...> wrote:
>
> i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three months
is about
> 250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house.
part of
> the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive. i
just a
> floor drain and fill from a utility sink!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22069 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Is that really just the cost of water or do they have lots of other service
charges, fees and taxes added on???

In either case, it sounds like Cambridge, Mass is due for a coup d'etat!!!!

You could honor the Boston Tea Party by throwing your water board members in
the harbor (instead of tea) ... or better yet, throw them in the sewage
recycling tanks. No use in polluting the harbor with their corpses.

:-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin E Boyle
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three months is about
250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house. part of
the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive. i just a
floor drain and fill from a utility sink!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)


Hi Mem,

But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two months?)
for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?

Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still probably
only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of lugging
buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the Python...
especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry tank, it
wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank, it saves
me a ton of time... and time is money! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am unsure
of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22070 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
WOW... Great find!!!! I'll have to remember to suggest that next time
someone needs a tank.

I can see all of the folks suffering from MTS lining up at their local
shelter in the morning. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I finally had
an idea and called the local Humane Society.
Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22071 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
I heard you have to be careful about what the tank was used for before. For
example, reptile urine penetrates the silicone, leaches out into the fish
water and kills the fish.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

WOW... Great find!!!! I'll have to remember to suggest that next time
someone needs a tank.

I can see all of the folks suffering from MTS lining up at their local
shelter in the morning. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I finally had
an idea and called the local Humane Society.
Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22072 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Roxanne, Hard to say if those are good prices or not without knowing
what is meant by "small" and "large". To some people, a 10 gallon tank
is large, and a 10 gallon tank can be bought new for $10 or very little
more. I believe too, that its Petsmart that holds periodic "Dollar per
Gallon" (up to 55 gallons) sales during the year. You might want to
check one of those sales out if these used Humane Society tanks don't
turn out to be bargains, although that is a good cause.

The one thing you have to watch out for is if the tank has been
previously used for small mammals or reptiles. Do not buy one of these
unless you're prepared to strip out the excess silicone beading and lay
down a fresh bead in all seams. The undiluted urine from these animals
can permeate the silicone sealant of their tank, rendering it quite
toxic to fish when its filled with water, and the urine then
continually leaches back out. Not all such tanks will be so affected,
by there's no way of knowing, unless you want to first test it with
feeder goldfish. So you're better off not fooling around with a tank
known to house animals as, if they're not fish-habitable, the work and
added expense might not be worth it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I
> finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
> Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22073 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
In a message dated 5/4/2007 8:24:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
djransome@... writes:

I heard you have to be careful about what the tank was used for before. For
example, reptile urine penetrates the silicone, leaches out into the fish
water and kills the fish.



I would also be worried about whether copper had ever been used if it was a
fish tank. Copper can also leach from the silicone and is toxic to some
"critters."

Kiesha
crawmerk@...



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22074 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Do you folks have some research to back up the animal urine kills
fish? I tried to Google for information and didn't find anything.
Why would someone use copper in an aquarium for reptiles?
The aquarium my goldfish are in now was previously used for a water
reptile.
I am not trying to sound confrontational.
I just want to know the why's.
Thanks much,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22075 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
I've always started the siphon with the vortex flow, and then, once
established, turned off the water, and let physics take its course. When
I was done, I filled the tanks by shutting off the vortex and starting
the water again.

At the time I was using the Python, I had about 30 tanks up and running
in the basement. The water was run into a plastic trash barrel, used for
rinsing filter components, and then pumped out into one of the gardens
around the house, even through the New England winters. Got some pretty
good ice patches in the yard, but didn't waste any water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 11:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two
10s and two 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more
in wasted water than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on
my back. It would not be convient to drain the water out a door or
window. As far as cleaning things in tank water I do use a bucket that
I syphon into to rinse things that need to be rinsed and replaced. I
just syphon a couple of gallons into a bucket before I set up the
phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22076 From: Jerry Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Roxanne, unless someone name me the toxin in reptile urine who can kill fish
I will not worry too much. Some people can say than urine contain a high
concentration of copper and other metal, that's may be good for mammals ,BUT
the kidney of reptile is different they are not able to concentrate their
urine. I will like to know also in mg/cm3 the absorption of silicone.
General urine do not kill fish, some aquarist use it to cycle their tank.
The nitrogen bacteria can easy neutralize more than 1 ml of ammonia a day.
I'm not a reptile specialist, but what make reptile urine more dangerous
than other one, especially knowing than it's not even concentrate.

A tank who have been use for reptile may be easy to trace, the mark of a
water line will be non existent or very low , they do not use also the same
cover for non aquatic reptile.

A regular tank cycling and addition of sodium carbonate, will remove uric
acid.

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de elementalclay@...
Envoyé : 4 mai 2007 21:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

Do you folks have some research to back up the animal urine kills
fish? I tried to Google for information and didn't find anything.
Why would someone use copper in an aquarium for reptiles?
The aquarium my goldfish are in now was previously used for a water
reptile.
I am not trying to sound confrontational.
I just want to know the why's.
Thanks much,
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22077 From: Peaches Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Question about Gouramis
Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22078 From: EAR Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
They do like to hide but are frisky and will pop out to chase other fish.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22079 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: orange algea in my 10 gallon
Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old now.
Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I wonder
if thats where the orange is coming from?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22080 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
I have a base charge of $18.93 per quarter. On top of that the rate is
$1.70 per 1000 gallons to 6000 gallons and then $2.55 per 1000 gallons.
This quarter, the rate rises to the summer rate, which is more. I don't
have those rates handy, but the increase is substantial, especially
after 1000 gallons.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 1:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cost of Water (was vacuums)

I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA and
the
world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local water
utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to 6,000
gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25 cents a
month
to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge that
much more for water?

I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious water
issues
but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill? It
seems a
shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop taking
showers because your water bill is high! :-D)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums

I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s and
two
2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted water
than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It would
not
be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as cleaning
things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of gallons
into
a bucket before I set up the phyton.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of any
> cons.maybe the cost.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22081 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Boy, that book is a bit on the pricey side. I'll need to take a better look at it to determine if I'll buy it, especially since it really only touches on one compound that really affects those who keep fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Mem, it's not all well water who are safe to use with fish, especially the
deep one drill in the rock. I strongly suggest for the health of the fish
and the human to made also a element analyst of the water, before drink or
use the water for fish, tolerance for some metal are not the same for fish
an human, a certified water for human use can kill fish, but here I can say
the same from Tap water, but usually people who use Tap water add some stuff
to remove chlorine, and this stuff contain often chelator who neutralize the
metal.

An interesting reading on the subject is "Water Quality for Freshwater Fish"
Gwyneth Howells


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 3 mai 2007 20:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Oh how I miss having a well.

Mem

> For me, it cost 16 Canadian cents to pump 1000 gal. from my well.
>
>
> Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22082 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Hi Gerald,
I've had several reptiles and the urates should be rather formed
wheras the urine is generally very clear and odorless.
After a bit of time still searching for this information I just gave
up.
When I first started my crayfish tank I asked a fellow who had a lot
of aquarium experience on how to get it jump started to cycle before
putting the crays in. He suggested a small amount of human urine ( 1/4
cup urine to 40 gallons of water) and run the tank two weeks.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22083 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
What? The population of the People's Republic of Cambridge revolt?
Unlikely. They probably wear the high water rates as a badge of honor.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Is that really just the cost of water or do they have lots of other
service
charges, fees and taxes added on???

In either case, it sounds like Cambridge, Mass is due for a coup
d'etat!!!!

You could honor the Boston Tea Party by throwing your water board
members in
the harbor (instead of tea) ... or better yet, throw them in the sewage
recycling tanks. No use in polluting the harbor with their corpses.

:-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Kevin E Boyle
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three months is
about
250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house. part
of
the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive. i just
a
floor drain and fill from a utility sink!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)


Hi Mem,

But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two
months?)
for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?

Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still
probably
only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of lugging
buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the
Python...
especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry tank,
it
wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank, it
saves
me a ton of time... and time is money! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am
unsure
of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22084 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/4/2007
Subject: orange algea in my 10 gallon
Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old now.
Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I wonder
if thats where the orange is coming from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22085 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
I adopted/saved a couple of blue gourami's two years ago and they were OK at
times but would also be very skittish and hide in the plants a lot at other
times. They were severely stunted from being in a 10G tank for several
years and regularly had minor health issues. I'm sure that did not help.
The male swam up to the big fish pond in the sky recently and now the female
is even more skittish.

What other kind of fish do you have? Sometimes, fast darting fish like
zebra danio's will cause them to become more skittish (as darting fish are
often a sign of danger in the wild). If you have other fish that do stay
out in the open, they will often help a skittish fish feel more comfortable.
These are called "dither" fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:00 PM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do they
hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come out of
hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come out and
swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs
Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22086 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've
heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what you
used, but, it's free and readily available....

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source


When I first started my crayfish tank I asked a fellow who had a lot
of aquarium experience on how to get it jump started to cycle before
putting the crays in. He suggested a small amount of human urine ( 1/4
cup urine to 40 gallons of water) and run the tank two weeks.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22087 From: Peaches Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
Hello Everyone,

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

I adopted/saved a couple of blue gourami's two years ago and they were OK at times but would also be very skittish and hide in the plants a lot at other times. They were severely stunted from being in a 10G tank for several years and regularly had minor health issues. I'm sure that did not help. The male swam up to the big fish pond in the sky recently and now the female is even more skittish.

What other kind of fish do you have? Sometimes, fast darting fish like zebra danio's will cause them to become more skittish (as darting fish are often a sign of danger in the wild). If you have other fish that do stay out in the open, they will often help a skittish fish feel more comfortable. These are called "dither" fish.

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:00 PM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Hi,

I have no other fish at present. I wanted some rainbows but they didn't have any. I only got them yesterday too so maybe I should give them time to adjust. I hope they will at least let me see them once in a while. I will buy more fish as soon as I can though. This is a new tank as well:)

Also are there any foods that I should feed them because I remember that someone had a dwarf Gourami die of bloat I think. If I should have anything extra on hand I sure would appreciate knowing about it:)

Thanks Again to Everyone:)
hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22088 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
it's a combined charge, water and sewage, but the water part is still 150.00 every three months, (for two people and fish) and it's lower than any city or town in the boston metro area beacuse cambridge has it's own reservoir, other cities and towns in this area are serviced by the MWRA) the water quality is very good, but when the bill comes in i start to think that doing water changes with bottled water couldn't be much worse. people who have a well are lucky, i guess. (let's not even talk about how expensive electricity is here.)

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:49 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)


What? The population of the People's Republic of Cambridge revolt?
Unlikely. They probably wear the high water rates as a badge of honor.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Is that really just the cost of water or do they have lots of other
service
charges, fees and taxes added on???

In either case, it sounds like Cambridge, Mass is due for a coup
d'etat!!!!

You could honor the Boston Tea Party by throwing your water board
members in
the harbor (instead of tea) ... or better yet, throw them in the sewage
recycling tanks. No use in polluting the harbor with their corpses.

:-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Kevin E Boyle
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three months is
about
250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house. part
of
the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive. i just
a
floor drain and fill from a utility sink!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Hi Mem,

But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two
months?)
for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?

Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still
probably
only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of lugging
buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the
Python...
especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry tank,
it
wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish tank, it
saves
me a ton of time... and time is money! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

-Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I am
unsure
of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the USA
and the
> world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
water
> utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
6,000
> gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
cents a month
> to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really charge
that
> much more for water?
>
> I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
water issues
> but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
It seems a
> shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
taking
> showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
>
> I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water that is
wasted
> in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two 10s
and two
> 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in wasted
water
> than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
would not
> be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
cleaning
> things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to rinse
things
> that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
gallons into
> a bucket before I set up the phyton.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
any
> > cons.maybe the cost.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22089 From: minnesotagal866 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
As someone who has lived around the world and has seen people walk
2+ miles for potable water, I personally would never use a Python
hooked up to the sink dumping fresh water down the drain for my
convenience. I have thought about getting one and running the hose
out the door to water plants, but until then I will continue to use
the bucket brigade. I know that my saving a few gallons doesn't
provide other people with water--but I can't dump water down the
drain in good conscience. I am generally careful with water in
general.

As far as cost, my local utilities are absolutely ridiculous. I
live in a small town in MN. I pay about $27.00 a month for water
and another $13.00 for sewer. Added to that are various facility
charges that I don't bother to separate from the ridiculous
electricity facility surcharges. I think the total water charges
average $55 a month. Sewer is based on waster usage, not on how
much actually goes down the sewer so you are charged for disposing
of your water even if you are using it to water your lawn. In the
summer our water our water was over $40.00 a month (just for water)
to water the flowers twice a week. People who watered their lawns
paid over $80 a month.

I used to live in the suburbs of Boston. I paid $120 a year for
water, but some towns on the coast paid over $2000 a year for water
depending on where their water came from.

Jackie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22090 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
I prefer also use ammonia; just make sure to get it from pharmacy, the one
without perfume. The trick with cycling with ammonia is to put the right
quantity to achieve the level of bio load need, too little will not
produce the quantity of bacteria need, so the tank will need an other
cycling when introduce too much fish, too much , it will produce to much of
nitrate at the end. Not a problem if you can replace some water to lower the
nitrate, but some people have to modify their source water to accommodate
the tank need, so it's add to the bill.

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 06:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've
heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what you

used, but, it's free and readily available....

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source


When I first started my crayfish tank I asked a fellow who had a lot
of aquarium experience on how to get it jump started to cycle before
putting the crays in. He suggested a small amount of human urine ( 1/4
cup urine to 40 gallons of water) and run the tank two weeks.
Roxanne





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22091 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Roxanne, I have never done research on animal urine kills with fish,
and know next to nothing about reptiles. It is not "research" that
causes me to enlighten you about this, but rather firsthand
experience and the experiences of trusted colleagues of many years.
Often, "research," especially on the Net results in misinformation
which only gets worse as each seemingly knowledgeable source copies
from preceding sources which know even less about the subjects they
write about.

Many knowledgeable shop owners already know the possible adverse
consequences of using a tank for fish after it has been inhabited by
these critters for any length of time, and I have been directly
informed of this from them. There are also auctioneers who, among
other topics in their line, specialize in the disolution of the
property of bankrupt and closed aquarium shops. I've sat in on a
number of these auctions over the years and in every situation, bar
none, the bidders were first advised of these possible consequences
before any used critter (reptile/mammal) tanks were put on the block.

A number of years back, I had been given one of these previously used
critter tanks, and while having this knowledge in the back of my
head, I chose to ignore the possibilities of toxicity and set it up
in a show with a prize Angelfish. Fortunately, I set up a number of
other similar size tanks (all 10's). Within a period of 30 to 40
minutes, the fish in the critter tank was on his way to out! Only my
quick action of transferring him to another of my show tanks revived
him, between 5 to 10 minutes later. This critter tank was thoroughly
washed out the previous evening in preparation to the show, as were
all the other show tanks (no, I don't use soap). I always bring all
my own water for use in shows. There was nothing else about this
tank that would have rendered it harmful; the glass itself is not
toxic (no, I don't use windex), so all that remains obvious is the
silicone sealant in a tank used to house critters, as all show tanks
were otherwise equal. This not only proved to me that the silicone
was leaching harmful substances, but was faster acting than I could
have even imagined.

Just as you've heard, I too have seen recomendations of using human
urine to start cycling an aquarium, even though to me this seems a
bit extreme. There is something here you are missing though; your
1/4 cup of urine in 40 gallons of water results in a dilution ratio
of 1 part urine to 2560 parts of water. I am in fact curious as to
what a "water reptile" such as you had is, and/or if it requires
having water in the tank (which would dilute any urine) vs. a dry
bottom tank. This would make a hugh difference in the amount of pure
urine being absorbed by the silicone.

As mentioned, the possibilities of toxic results in the use of
previously used critter tanks for fish can vary and may not always
materialize. Part of this possibility has to do with any bedding
that may have been used with the animal, which would have absorbed
the animal's waste to varying degrees, exposing the silicone to
little or no urine to be absorbed. Only testing can reveal how much
toxicity may be present, upon filling it and either adding a test
fish (feeder goldfish) or by testing for ammonia, which I would think
should show the presence of any urine leaching back out. I don't
know whether the toxic cause is from possible heavy metals (copper),
or whether the amount of ammonia being released is just at a rate too
overwhelming in the short time span. In any event, this release
seems also to be ongoing as numerous repeated fillings over a longer
time span results in nothing less than what happened initially.

I would also think that maybe the size of the animal may have
something to do with all this, any possibly its diet as well. I'm
not about to get into the why's and wherefor's, but am merely trying
to warn you of the possible results, even if not the inevitable. If
its your decision to disregard this for whatever reason, that's
completely your choice, in light of the fact I am not offering you a
reference for "research" nor can tell you precisely why. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Do you folks have some research to back up the animal urine kills
> fish? I tried to Google for information and didn't find anything.
> Why would someone use copper in an aquarium for reptiles?
> The aquarium my goldfish are in now was previously used for a
water
> reptile.
> I am not trying to sound confrontational.
> I just want to know the why's.
> Thanks much,
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22092 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Another reason to think twice about using "critter cages" for fish
is that sometimes the glass and the sealant is not the same as an
aquarium and will not hold water.Yes they might be cheaper but if
you fill them with water they may open up and release the entire
contents of water with out warning.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Roxanne, I have never done research on animal urine kills with
fish,
> and know next to nothing about reptiles. It is not "research"
that
> causes me to enlighten you about this, but rather firsthand
> experience and the experiences of trusted colleagues of many
years.
> Often, "research," especially on the Net results in misinformation
> which only gets worse as each seemingly knowledgeable source
copies
> from preceding sources which know even less about the subjects
they
> write about.
>
> Many knowledgeable shop owners already know the possible adverse
> consequences of using a tank for fish after it has been inhabited
by
> these critters for any length of time, and I have been directly
> informed of this from them. There are also auctioneers who, among
> other topics in their line, specialize in the disolution of the
> property of bankrupt and closed aquarium shops. I've sat in on a
> number of these auctions over the years and in every situation,
bar
> none, the bidders were first advised of these possible
consequences
> before any used critter (reptile/mammal) tanks were put on the
block.
>
> A number of years back, I had been given one of these previously
used
> critter tanks, and while having this knowledge in the back of my
> head, I chose to ignore the possibilities of toxicity and set it
up
> in a show with a prize Angelfish. Fortunately, I set up a number
of
> other similar size tanks (all 10's). Within a period of 30 to 40
> minutes, the fish in the critter tank was on his way to out! Only
my
> quick action of transferring him to another of my show tanks
revived
> him, between 5 to 10 minutes later. This critter tank was
thoroughly
> washed out the previous evening in preparation to the show, as
were
> all the other show tanks (no, I don't use soap). I always bring
all
> my own water for use in shows. There was nothing else about this
> tank that would have rendered it harmful; the glass itself is not
> toxic (no, I don't use windex), so all that remains obvious is the
> silicone sealant in a tank used to house critters, as all show
tanks
> were otherwise equal. This not only proved to me that the
silicone
> was leaching harmful substances, but was faster acting than I
could
> have even imagined.
>
> Just as you've heard, I too have seen recomendations of using
human
> urine to start cycling an aquarium, even though to me this seems a
> bit extreme. There is something here you are missing though; your
> 1/4 cup of urine in 40 gallons of water results in a dilution
ratio
> of 1 part urine to 2560 parts of water. I am in fact curious as to
> what a "water reptile" such as you had is, and/or if it requires
> having water in the tank (which would dilute any urine) vs. a dry
> bottom tank. This would make a hugh difference in the amount of
pure
> urine being absorbed by the silicone.
>
> As mentioned, the possibilities of toxic results in the use of
> previously used critter tanks for fish can vary and may not always
> materialize. Part of this possibility has to do with any bedding
> that may have been used with the animal, which would have absorbed
> the animal's waste to varying degrees, exposing the silicone to
> little or no urine to be absorbed. Only testing can reveal how
much
> toxicity may be present, upon filling it and either adding a test
> fish (feeder goldfish) or by testing for ammonia, which I would
think
> should show the presence of any urine leaching back out. I don't
> know whether the toxic cause is from possible heavy metals
(copper),
> or whether the amount of ammonia being released is just at a rate
too
> overwhelming in the short time span. In any event, this release
> seems also to be ongoing as numerous repeated fillings over a
longer
> time span results in nothing less than what happened initially.
>
> I would also think that maybe the size of the animal may have
> something to do with all this, any possibly its diet as well. I'm
> not about to get into the why's and wherefor's, but am merely
trying
> to warn you of the possible results, even if not the inevitable.
If
> its your decision to disregard this for whatever reason, that's
> completely your choice, in light of the fact I am not offering you
a
> reference for "research" nor can tell you precisely why. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22093 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
In a message dated 5/5/2007 7:07:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
drollier@... writes:

Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've
heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what you
used, but, it's free and readily available...u



Humans excrete urea, not ammonia. Urine also contains many other substances
besides nitrogenous waste, it is after all one of the body's methods of
getting rid of toxins. I would be very leery of putting any into my aquarium.


Kiesha
crawmerk@...



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22094 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Personally I will not buy a use tank, for many reason, except may a large
one who still in use, so I can see there is no problem with it. I will not
give so much trouble for a tank with a value of less than $ 100, especially
little tank like 10 gal. for the few price you save better buy a new one.


For the Silicone now :

After think a little bit more about it , I can see 2 problems with using
tank who have contain animal , Ammonia and heavy metal, I will worry a
little bit more about the one who contain mammals, because the kidney
concentrate the heavy metal like copper, and the ammonia is more concentrate
too, For the urine side, I think it's not a good idea to place fish right
inside the tank even after wash it, the ammonia can slowly release, but if
someone take the time to cycle the tank, the main part of release of ammonia
will be done after the end of cycling, the few who will still release will
be too small to affect fish

NOW, what I'm more concern, is the absorption of silicone, It's only a
possibility, than I have no fact or experiment to assume, the silicone can
may be retain the heavy metal in it, those heavy metal can be the real
danger, mammals will be more problematic, since the heavy metal are release
in solid form true the reptile, not in the urine.

So if I'm right with my assumption, before use a tank who contain animal,
here the recommendations I can give

1- rinse truly, with a solution of water an carbonate
2- Introduce the fish only after a long cycling with a fish less method
3- use some chelator in the first month to neutralize the heavy metal.
4- make good water change.
5- Do not use animal tank for marine setup



Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Raymond Wetzel
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 08:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Aquarium source

Roxanne, I have never done research on animal urine kills with fish,
and know next to nothing about reptiles. It is not "research" that
causes me to enlighten you about this, but rather firsthand
experience and the experiences of trusted colleagues of many years.
Often, "research," especially on the Net results in misinformation
which only gets worse as each seemingly knowledgeable source copies
from preceding sources which know even less about the subjects they
write about.

Many knowledgeable shop owners already know the possible adverse
consequences of using a tank for fish after it has been inhabited by
these critters for any length of time, and I have been directly
informed of this from them. There are also auctioneers who, among
other topics in their line, specialize in the disolution of the
property of bankrupt and closed aquarium shops. I've sat in on a
number of these auctions over the years and in every situation, bar
none, the bidders were first advised of these possible consequences
before any used critter (reptile/mammal) tanks were put on the block.

A number of years back, I had been given one of these previously used
critter tanks, and while having this knowledge in the back of my
head, I chose to ignore the possibilities of toxicity and set it up
in a show with a prize Angelfish. Fortunately, I set up a number of
other similar size tanks (all 10's). Within a period of 30 to 40
minutes, the fish in the critter tank was on his way to out! Only my
quick action of transferring him to another of my show tanks revived
him, between 5 to 10 minutes later. This critter tank was thoroughly
washed out the previous evening in preparation to the show, as were
all the other show tanks (no, I don't use soap). I always bring all
my own water for use in shows. There was nothing else about this
tank that would have rendered it harmful; the glass itself is not
toxic (no, I don't use windex), so all that remains obvious is the
silicone sealant in a tank used to house critters, as all show tanks
were otherwise equal. This not only proved to me that the silicone
was leaching harmful substances, but was faster acting than I could
have even imagined.

Just as you've heard, I too have seen recomendations of using human
urine to start cycling an aquarium, even though to me this seems a
bit extreme. There is something here you are missing though; your
1/4 cup of urine in 40 gallons of water results in a dilution ratio
of 1 part urine to 2560 parts of water. I am in fact curious as to
what a "water reptile" such as you had is, and/or if it requires
having water in the tank (which would dilute any urine) vs. a dry
bottom tank. This would make a hugh difference in the amount of pure
urine being absorbed by the silicone.

As mentioned, the possibilities of toxic results in the use of
previously used critter tanks for fish can vary and may not always
materialize. Part of this possibility has to do with any bedding
that may have been used with the animal, which would have absorbed
the animal's waste to varying degrees, exposing the silicone to
little or no urine to be absorbed. Only testing can reveal how much
toxicity may be present, upon filling it and either adding a test
fish (feeder goldfish) or by testing for ammonia, which I would think
should show the presence of any urine leaching back out. I don't
know whether the toxic cause is from possible heavy metals (copper),
or whether the amount of ammonia being released is just at a rate too
overwhelming in the short time span. In any event, this release
seems also to be ongoing as numerous repeated fillings over a longer
time span results in nothing less than what happened initially.

I would also think that maybe the size of the animal may have
something to do with all this, any possibly its diet as well. I'm
not about to get into the why's and wherefor's, but am merely trying
to warn you of the possible results, even if not the inevitable. If
its your decision to disregard this for whatever reason, that's
completely your choice, in light of the fact I am not offering you a
reference for "research" nor can tell you precisely why. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Do you folks have some research to back up the animal urine kills
> fish? I tried to Google for information and didn't find anything.
> Why would someone use copper in an aquarium for reptiles?
> The aquarium my goldfish are in now was previously used for a
water
> reptile.
> I am not trying to sound confrontational.
> I just want to know the why's.
> Thanks much,
> Roxanne
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22095 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Kiesha, I will not like to siphon the tank and put my hand in it .



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de crawmerk@...
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 10:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source


In a message dated 5/5/2007 7:07:49 AM Eastern Standard Time,
drollier@... writes:

Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've

heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what
you
used, but, it's free and readily available...u



Humans excrete urea, not ammonia. Urine also contains many other substances

besides nitrogenous waste, it is after all one of the body's methods of
getting rid of toxins. I would be very leery of putting any into my
aquarium.


Kiesha
crawmerk@...



************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22096 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
In a message dated 5/5/2007 10:17:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dataxpert@... writes:

Kiesha, I will not like to siphon the tank and put my hand in it .





:):):)

Kiesha



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22097 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
In a message dated 5/4/2007 9:32:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
elementalclay@... writes:

Why would someone use copper in an aquarium for reptiles?




I never said they would. :) My point was that when you buy "used tanks,"
especially far downstream from their original owners, you have no idea what
they may have been used for in the past (reptiles, mammals or fish) or what may
have been in them. Copper is contained in some fish medications but can be
toxic to some organisms.

At any rate, it is all a matter of how much risk a person is comfortable
with. Relatively speaking the actual tank is a small part of the total cost so I
prefer to "hedge my bets" and buy new or from someone I know. That doesn't
make me "right" or anyone else "wrong." :)

Kiesha
crawmerk@...



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22098 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Angel community tank
Donna,

I am in your boat. I have a black and 2 golden angels in a 10 gal tank. I must do something soon. They are living very amicably with 2 platys, 2 cory cats and a male betta. They have all been together for several months now. My angels and betta are very, very, docil and swim side by side and come to the front corner every morning to greet me and get their breakfast. Just make sure you have docil fish. I have another male betta that couldn't live with the devil himself so he is in a tank alone. Good luck with your tank.

Cory

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22099 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old now.
Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I wonder
if thats where the orange is coming from
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22100 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Water dumped down the drain gets recycled via your sewage treatment facility
and then evaporation ultimately brings it right back into your sink. You
are not robbing water from someone in another country.

And just like with gasoline, tobacco, alcohol and everything else, if we
actually reduced our consumption, the government would just raise the
taxes/fees on the items since they don't want to reduce the size of
government (aka waste) .... so actually, by you not wasting water, you are
causing higher taxes/fees on the rest of us in the future. Just kidding! ;)

It sounds like you guys need a little coup d'tate with your water board
officials as well. Aren't there a "thousand lakes" you can use for your
"water board" tea party? :D

I can't believe the ridiculous rates that some people are forced to pay.
Don't you ever ask your public officials why the New Orleans suburbs can
deliver water for $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and you all are paying 30 to 100
times more? Would you pay that much more for grocery items? Ya'll need to
start writing the water board and the editorials of the newspapers and ask
for an explanation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of minnesotagal866
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

As someone who has lived around the world and has seen people walk
2+ miles for potable water, I personally would never use a Python
hooked up to the sink dumping fresh water down the drain for my convenience.
I have thought about getting one and running the hose out the door to water
plants, but until then I will continue to use the bucket brigade. I know
that my saving a few gallons doesn't provide other people with water--but I
can't dump water down the drain in good conscience. I am generally careful
with water in general.

As far as cost, my local utilities are absolutely ridiculous. I live in a
small town in MN. I pay about $27.00 a month for water and another $13.00
for sewer. Added to that are various facility charges that I don't bother to
separate from the ridiculous electricity facility surcharges. I think the
total water charges average $55 a month. Sewer is based on waster usage, not
on how much actually goes down the sewer so you are charged for disposing of
your water even if you are using it to water your lawn. In the summer our
water our water was over $40.00 a month (just for water) to water the
flowers twice a week. People who watered their lawns paid over $80 a month.

I used to live in the suburbs of Boston. I paid $120 a year for water, but
some towns on the coast paid over $2000 a year for water depending on where
their water came from.

Jackie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22101 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
For folks in the USA (and maybe CAN???), you can find the plain 10% ammonium
hydroxide at your local Ace Hardware Store. It's getting harder and harder
to find the plain stuff in the grocery stores. All I ever see is some kind
of scented or sudsing types.

I've also heard of folks using Bicarbonate of Ammonia (aka Baking Ammonia
Powder) found in some baking/spice sections of stores.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

I prefer also use ammonia; just make sure to get it from pharmacy, the one
without perfume. The trick with cycling with ammonia is to put the right
quantity to achieve the level of bio load need, too little will not produce
the quantity of bacteria need, so the tank will need an other cycling when
introduce too much fish, too much , it will produce to much of nitrate at
the end. Not a problem if you can replace some water to lower the nitrate,
but some people have to modify their source water to accommodate the tank
need, so it's add to the bill.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Donna Camp Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 06:30 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've
heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what you

used, but, it's free and readily available....

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net> >
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

When I first started my crayfish tank I asked a fellow who had a lot of
aquarium experience on how to get it jump started to cycle before putting
the crays in. He suggested a small amount of human urine ( 1/4 cup urine to
40 gallons of water) and run the tank two weeks.
Roxanne

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22102 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: UGF question...
Hi Guys,

I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an
undergravel filter. There is a tube that the air tube
and stone go down and then this is hooked up to an air
pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't
see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on
a "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into
the tube suck the waste to the bottom of the tank.
Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me,
if so? I want to make sure the tank stays clean since the
dwarf is supposed to be more sensitive.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22103 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Lenny, you can not just count how much a city ask per gal. city charge also proprieties taxes, some have parts of the water purification include in the propriety taxes, that's the case here in Quebec Canada, the majority if city don't meter the water , it's include in the taxes. As example, in Montreal , the city charge a water taxes , but this taxes do not pay for all the cost, part is also take from the budget of the city, they also install meter in large companies. So base a survey only on the cost per gal. is not the real cost of water .

I do not play in politic and I don't think my ecologic concern is part of the normal tread of this group, but if someone is concern about the spoiling of water using a Python, may be they can use it at same time they water their grass, just install the python on the garden house. If I remember well the python have a female output where you can screw the garden house.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 13:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Water dumped down the drain gets recycled via your sewage treatment facility
and then evaporation ultimately brings it right back into your sink. You
are not robbing water from someone in another country.

And just like with gasoline, tobacco, alcohol and everything else, if we
actually reduced our consumption, the government would just raise the
taxes/fees on the items since they don't want to reduce the size of
government (aka waste) .... so actually, by you not wasting water, you are
causing higher taxes/fees on the rest of us in the future. Just kidding! ;)

It sounds like you guys need a little coup d'tate with your water board
officials as well. Aren't there a "thousand lakes" you can use for your
"water board" tea party? :D

I can't believe the ridiculous rates that some people are forced to pay.
Don't you ever ask your public officials why the New Orleans suburbs can
deliver water for $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and you all are paying 30 to 100
times more? Would you pay that much more for grocery items? Ya'll need to
start writing the water board and the editorials of the newspapers and ask
for an explanation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of minnesotagal866
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

As someone who has lived around the world and has seen people walk
2+ miles for potable water, I personally would never use a Python
hooked up to the sink dumping fresh water down the drain for my convenience.
I have thought about getting one and running the hose out the door to water
plants, but until then I will continue to use the bucket brigade. I know
that my saving a few gallons doesn't provide other people with water--but I
can't dump water down the drain in good conscience. I am generally careful
with water in general.

As far as cost, my local utilities are absolutely ridiculous. I live in a
small town in MN. I pay about $27.00 a month for water and another $13.00
for sewer. Added to that are various facility charges that I don't bother to
separate from the ridiculous electricity facility surcharges. I think the
total water charges average $55 a month. Sewer is based on waster usage, not
on how much actually goes down the sewer so you are charged for disposing of
your water even if you are using it to water your lawn. In the summer our
water our water was over $40.00 a month (just for water) to water the
flowers twice a week. People who watered their lawns paid over $80 a month.

I used to live in the suburbs of Boston. I paid $120 a year for water, but
some towns on the coast paid over $2000 a year for water depending on where
their water came from.

Jackie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22104 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
In Quebec Canada we do not have Ace hardware, but Hydroxyde Ammonium can be
found in Pharmacy (drug store) , just ask for Atlas brand, all pharmacy can
order from Atlas, ask the pharmacist, by the Law here, they keep it at the
back of the counter.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 13:45
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

For folks in the USA (and maybe CAN???), you can find the plain 10% ammonium
hydroxide at your local Ace Hardware Store. It's getting harder and harder
to find the plain stuff in the grocery stores. All I ever see is some kind
of scented or sudsing types.

I've also heard of folks using Bicarbonate of Ammonia (aka Baking Ammonia
Powder) found in some baking/spice sections of stores.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

I prefer also use ammonia; just make sure to get it from pharmacy, the one
without perfume. The trick with cycling with ammonia is to put the right
quantity to achieve the level of bio load need, too little will not produce
the quantity of bacteria need, so the tank will need an other cycling when
introduce too much fish, too much , it will produce to much of nitrate at
the end. Not a problem if you can replace some water to lower the nitrate,
but some people have to modify their source water to accommodate the tank
need, so it's add to the bill.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Donna Camp Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 06:30 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

Instead of looking for a bottle of pure ammonia cleaner in the stores, I've
heard of some people using human urine. Human urine is another source of
pure ammonia; you might get some strange looks when you tell people what you

used, but, it's free and readily available....

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net> >
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> >
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:30 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium source

When I first started my crayfish tank I asked a fellow who had a lot of
aquarium experience on how to get it jump started to cycle before putting
the crays in. He suggested a small amount of human urine ( 1/4 cup urine to
40 gallons of water) and run the tank two weeks.
Roxanne

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PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22105 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
The air rising up through the tube actually gets the water flowing up
through the tube. This creates a siphon effect that sucks water down
through the gravel which then goes back up through the tube, over and over.

What size tank is this? And how many fish do you plan?

This air stone powered UGF does not move a lot of gph (gallons per hour)
compared to HOB's, canisters, etc. Many UGF's are modified to connect to
the intake tube of a power filter (HOB) so that there is better
circulation/filtration and less chance of mulm building up under the gravel
plates.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF question...

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an undergravel filter.
There is a tube that the air tube and stone go down and then this is hooked
up to an air pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't see how the
waste is being removed. The gravel sits on a "plate" that the tube and air
tube are hooked up to.
I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into the tube suck the waste
to the bottom of the tank.
Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me, if so? I want to
make sure the tank stays clean since the dwarf is supposed to be more
sensitive.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22106 From: Laurie Brown Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
you should have a lift tube on the undergravel filter plate and a small powerhead on the top of the lift tube.
the powerhead will suck water from beneath the plate and push it out near the surface to keep the surface water moving and drawing in oxygen. As the water gets sucked down thru the plate it also draws the wast and such down into and under the gravel and pretty much traps it there. You still need to vaccum the gravel to clean out excess waste though.
How often depends on how populated you keep your tank.

Traci Swatek-Rice <t-swatek@...> wrote:
Hi Guys,

I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an
undergravel filter. There is a tube that the air tube
and stone go down and then this is hooked up to an air
pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't
see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on
a "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into
the tube suck the waste to the bottom of the tank.
Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me,
if so? I want to make sure the tank stays clean since the
dwarf is supposed to be more sensitive.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><






NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
Check it out
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982


---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22107 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
You can also use airstones in the lift tube to create the uplift of water
instead of a powerhead…



I used to have ugf on my tanks, but I have since put live plants in the
tanks and no longer have any need for that. I have 2 55 gallon tanks and
they haeach have 2 Emperor 400 HOB filters (each filter has 2 bio wheels on
them). The plants eat most of the waste and help to keep the water nice and
clear.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie Brown
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 1:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UGF question...



you should have a lift tube on the undergravel filter plate and a small
powerhead on the top of the lift tube.
the powerhead will suck water from beneath the plate and push it out near
the surface to keep the surface water moving and drawing in oxygen. As the
water gets sucked down thru the plate it also draws the wast and such down
into and under the gravel and pretty much traps it there. You still need to
vaccum the gravel to clean out excess waste though.
How often depends on how populated you keep your tank.

Traci Swatek-Rice <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> > wrote:
Hi Guys,

I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an
undergravel filter. There is a tube that the air tube
and stone go down and then this is hooked up to an air
pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't
see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on
a "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into
the tube suck the waste to the bottom of the tank.
Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me,
if so? I want to make sure the tank stays clean since the
dwarf is supposed to be more sensitive.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
Check it out
http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982

---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22108 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
That is very true...the water that you ar putting into your tanks and using
for cooking was once peed out by dinosaurs ;-)

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Water dumped down the drain gets recycled via your sewage treatment facility
and then evaporation ultimately brings it right back into your sink. You
are not robbing water from someone in another country.

And just like with gasoline, tobacco, alcohol and everything else, if we
actually reduced our consumption, the government would just raise the
taxes/fees on the items since they don't want to reduce the size of
government (aka waste) .... so actually, by you not wasting water, you are
causing higher taxes/fees on the rest of us in the future. Just kidding! ;)

It sounds like you guys need a little coup d'tate with your water board
officials as well. Aren't there a "thousand lakes" you can use for your
"water board" tea party? :D

I can't believe the ridiculous rates that some people are forced to pay.
Don't you ever ask your public officials why the New Orleans suburbs can
deliver water for $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and you all are paying 30 to 100
times more? Would you pay that much more for grocery items? Ya'll need to
start writing the water board and the editorials of the newspapers and ask
for an explanation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of minnesotagal866
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

As someone who has lived around the world and has seen people walk
2+ miles for potable water, I personally would never use a Python
hooked up to the sink dumping fresh water down the drain for my convenience.
I have thought about getting one and running the hose out the door to water
plants, but until then I will continue to use the bucket brigade. I know
that my saving a few gallons doesn't provide other people with water--but I
can't dump water down the drain in good conscience. I am generally careful
with water in general.

As far as cost, my local utilities are absolutely ridiculous. I live in a
small town in MN. I pay about $27.00 a month for water and another $13.00
for sewer. Added to that are various facility charges that I don't bother to
separate from the ridiculous electricity facility surcharges. I think the
total water charges average $55 a month. Sewer is based on waster usage, not
on how much actually goes down the sewer so you are charged for disposing of
your water even if you are using it to water your lawn. In the summer our
water our water was over $40.00 a month (just for water) to water the
flowers twice a week. People who watered their lawns paid over $80 a month.

I used to live in the suburbs of Boston. I paid $120 a year for water, but
some towns on the coast paid over $2000 a year for water depending on where
their water came from.

Jackie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22109 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
It's only a 2 gallon tank. I have the one dwarf puffer
in it. I found out he didn't like bettas very well so
he is in his own little tank. Although I have him alone
for now, I know you sent the email about dwarfs doing well
with otos and I may try one also if I can find one. I haven't
had any luck yet.

Thanks everyone for explaining the concept. I get it now.
Duh... the lights go on. I do vacuum my gravel and will
do a 50% PWC every week with him/her. That's what the puffer
website you sent out said to do.

Maybe I'll get this all one day. When I finally get the big
tank I want I'm not making a move with out printing your blog.
;)

Thanks,
Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> The air rising up through the tube actually gets the water flowing up
> through the tube. This creates a siphon effect that sucks water down
> through the gravel which then goes back up through the tube, over and over.
>
> What size tank is this? And how many fish do you plan?
>
> This air stone powered UGF does not move a lot of gph (gallons per hour)
> compared to HOB's, canisters, etc. Many UGF's are modified to connect to
> the intake tube of a power filter (HOB) so that there is better
> circulation/filtration and less chance of mulm building up under the gravel
> plates.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:51 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF question...
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
> I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an undergravel filter.
> There is a tube that the air tube and stone go down and then this is hooked
> up to an air pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't see how the
> waste is being removed. The gravel sits on a "plate" that the tube and air
> tube are hooked up to.
> I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into the tube suck the waste
> to the bottom of the tank.
> Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me, if so? I want to
> make sure the tank stays clean since the dwarf is supposed to be more
> sensitive.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
> PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
> reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE
> -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: World Water Council
Not directly related to fishkeeping, but more related in a tangential
way is this site:

World Water Council [pdf, Macromedia Flash Player]
http://www.worldwatercouncil.org

In 1997, the World Water Council had its first official forum in
Marrakech, and since then they have continued their work on "critical
water issues at all levels." Some of these issues include efficient
water conservation, water use management, and other relevant matters.
With its compelling visual images and design, the homepage contains
sections that provide information on upcoming World Water Forums and
some very helpful overviews of their work. One such general overview may
be found in the "Water at a Glance" area, which provides information on
the nature of freshwater resources around the globe. Persons involved in
water policy and international affairs may wish to look over their
online library, which includes their annual reports, synopses of
materials covered in the Water Forum meetings, and papers such as "The
Right to Water: From Concept To Implementation". It is also worth noting
that many of the materials on the site are available in
French and Spanish.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2007.
http://scout.wisc.edu/

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22111 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
Woooahhh.. Dinosaur pee.. now that's something that I bet would cycle a tank
in 24 hours. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 1:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

That is very true...the water that you ar putting into your tanks and using
for cooking was once peed out by dinosaurs ;-)

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

Water dumped down the drain gets recycled via your sewage treatment facility
and then evaporation ultimately brings it right back into your sink. You
are not robbing water from someone in another country.

And just like with gasoline, tobacco, alcohol and everything else, if we
actually reduced our consumption, the government would just raise the
taxes/fees on the items since they don't want to reduce the size of
government (aka waste) .... so actually, by you not wasting water, you are
causing higher taxes/fees on the rest of us in the future. Just kidding! ;)

It sounds like you guys need a little coup d'tate with your water board
officials as well. Aren't there a "thousand lakes" you can use for your
"water board" tea party? :D

I can't believe the ridiculous rates that some people are forced to pay.
Don't you ever ask your public officials why the New Orleans suburbs can
deliver water for $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and you all are paying 30 to 100
times more? Would you pay that much more for grocery items? Ya'll need to
start writing the water board and the editorials of the newspapers and ask
for an explanation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of minnesotagal866
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)

As someone who has lived around the world and has seen people walk
2+ miles for potable water, I personally would never use a Python
hooked up to the sink dumping fresh water down the drain for my convenience.
I have thought about getting one and running the hose out the door to water
plants, but until then I will continue to use the bucket brigade. I know
that my saving a few gallons doesn't provide other people with water--but I
can't dump water down the drain in good conscience. I am generally careful
with water in general.

As far as cost, my local utilities are absolutely ridiculous. I live in a
small town in MN. I pay about $27.00 a month for water and another $13.00
for sewer. Added to that are various facility charges that I don't bother to
separate from the ridiculous electricity facility surcharges. I think the
total water charges average $55 a month. Sewer is based on waster usage, not
on how much actually goes down the sewer so you are charged for disposing of
your water even if you are using it to water your lawn. In the summer our
water our water was over $40.00 a month (just for water) to water the
flowers twice a week. People who watered their lawns paid over $80 a month.

I used to live in the suburbs of Boston. I paid $120 a year for water, but
some towns on the coast paid over $2000 a year for water depending on where
their water came from.

Jackie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22112 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Hey Steve,

Quote from "About Us" page...

"1992 - The idea of forming a world water council was first proposed in 1992
at the UN's International Conference on Environment and Development in
Dublin and at the Rio de Janeiro Earth Summit."

If this is an offshoot of the UN, we better all be careful or we'll be
paying more for water than we do for gas. If anyone even watches the news
on a regular basis, they should know that the UN is fraught with waste,
fraud and outright criminal activities.

God help us all if the UN ever starts determining our water supply prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 4:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Not directly related to fishkeeping, but more related in a tangential way is
this site:

World Water Council [pdf, Macromedia Flash Player]
http://www.worldwatercouncil.org <http://www.worldwatercouncil.org>

In 1997, the World Water Council had its first official forum in Marrakech,
and since then they have continued their work on "critical water issues at
all levels." Some of these issues include efficient water conservation,
water use management, and other relevant matters.
With its compelling visual images and design, the homepage contains sections
that provide information on upcoming World Water Forums and some very
helpful overviews of their work. One such general overview may be found in
the "Water at a Glance" area, which provides information on the nature of
freshwater resources around the globe. Persons involved in water policy and
international affairs may wish to look over their online library, which
includes their annual reports, synopses of materials covered in the Water
Forum meetings, and papers such as "The Right to Water: From Concept To
Implementation". It is also worth noting that many of the materials on the
site are available in French and Spanish.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2007.
http://scout.wisc.edu/ <http://scout.wisc.edu/>

\\Steve//

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22113 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
-OPPS! Ray, how long would it take to see the affects of the
leaching?

Mem

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Roxanne, Hard to say if those are good prices or not without
knowing
> what is meant by "small" and "large". To some people, a 10 gallon
tank
> is large, and a 10 gallon tank can be bought new for $10 or very
little
> more. I believe too, that its Petsmart that holds periodic "Dollar
per
> Gallon" (up to 55 gallons) sales during the year. You might want
to
> check one of those sales out if these used Humane Society tanks
don't
> turn out to be bargains, although that is a good cause.
>
> The one thing you have to watch out for is if the tank has been
> previously used for small mammals or reptiles. Do not buy one of
these
> unless you're prepared to strip out the excess silicone beading and
lay
> down a fresh bead in all seams. The undiluted urine from these
animals
> can permeate the silicone sealant of their tank, rendering it quite
> toxic to fish when its filled with water, and the urine then
> continually leaches back out. Not all such tanks will be so
affected,
> by there's no way of knowing, unless you want to first test it with
> feeder goldfish. So you're better off not fooling around with a
tank
> known to house animals as, if they're not fish-habitable, the work
and
> added expense might not be worth it. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> >
> > After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium I
> > finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
> > Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
> > Roxanne
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22114 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
How could you even mention electricity! LOL I still feel nausious
when I open the Electric bill.

Mem
(let's not even talk about how expensive electricity is here.)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Steve Szabo
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:49 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
>
> What? The population of the People's Republic of Cambridge revolt?
> Unlikely. They probably wear the high water rates as a badge of
honor.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
> Is that really just the cost of water or do they have lots of
other
> service
> charges, fees and taxes added on???
>
> In either case, it sounds like Cambridge, Mass is due for a coup
> d'etat!!!!
>
> You could honor the Boston Tea Party by throwing your water board
> members in
> the harbor (instead of tea) ... or better yet, throw them in the
sewage
> recycling tanks. No use in polluting the harbor with their
corpses.
>
> :-D
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On
> Behalf Of Kevin E Boyle
> Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 5:23 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
> i live in cambridge mass, and the cost for water every three
months is
> about
> 250.00, and that's with just two people and (fish) in the house.
part
> of
> the reason i don't use a python is because water is so expensive.
i just
> a
> floor drain and fill from a utility sink!
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 8:24 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
> Hi Mem,
>
> But the 2,000G is probably an entire months worth of water (or two
> months?)
> for your entire home.. right? What state/country are you in?
>
> Even with the high price you are paying compared to me, it's still
> probably
> only a dollar a month or less for using the Python instead of
lugging
> buckets, etc. A small price to pay for the time saved using the
> Python...
> especially on big tanks. I guess if all I had was my 10G cherry
tank,
> it
> wouldn't be such a time saver but when doing my big goldfish
tank, it
> saves
> me a ton of time... and time is money! :D
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Cost of Water (was vacuums)
>
> -Lenny, I get charged right at $9 for 2000 gals here. and then I
am
> unsure
> of the increments from there. But, it can get pretty high.
>
> Mem
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm curious about the "cost" of public utility water around the
USA
> and the
> > world, as I see some people complaining about the cost. My local
> water
> > utility charges $1.17 per 1,000 gallons and only $4.94 for up to
> 6,000
> > gallons every two months. I figure it might cost less than 25
> cents a month
> > to do weekly 25% PWC's on my 3 tanks. Do other areas really
charge
> that
> > much more for water?
> >
> > I know certain areas of the USA or the world might have serious
> water issues
> > but is it that expensive where you notice it on your water bill?
> It seems a
> > shower would use more water than a 25% PWC. (Please don't stop
> taking
> > showers because your water bill is high! :-D)
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> > Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 10:57 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Vacuums
> >
> > I use the Python too and the big con is the amount of water
that is
> wasted
> > in syphoning out your tanks. I have a 55, a 29, three 20s, two
10s
> and two
> > 2&1/2 gallon tanks to change so it does really cost more in
wasted
> water
> > than in the bucket brigade but it is a lot easier on my back. It
> would not
> > be convient to drain the water out a door or window. As far as
> cleaning
> > things in tank water I do use a bucket that I syphon into to
rinse
> things
> > that need to be rinsed and replaced. I just syphon a couple of
> gallons into
> > a bucket before I set up the phyton.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Python, because it also eliminates the buckets! Can't think of
> any
> > > cons.maybe the cost.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22115 From: Memrie Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Never heard of it but then I am still new to the hobby.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
> baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old now.
> Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I wonder
> if thats where the orange is coming from
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22116 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Orange algae can be few thing,
1- red algae, Red Algae, can be red, pink, orange, yellow,
2- may be not algae at all cyanobacteria


Are we talking about a salt or fresh water tank ?
You have baby fish in a cycling tank ?
Have you use antibiotic in the tank ???

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 13:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10
gallon

Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old now.
Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I wonder
if thats where the orange is coming from






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22117 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
I haven't been brave enough yet to try live plants...
Maybe when I get my big tank. That thing is going to
be so full, I hope I can get fit water in it. LOL

Thanks for your help.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> You can also use airstones in the lift tube to create the uplift of water
> instead of a powerhead…
>
>
>
> I used to have ugf on my tanks, but I have since put live plants in the
> tanks and no longer have any need for that. I have 2 55 gallon tanks and
> they haeach have 2 Emperor 400 HOB filters (each filter has 2 bio wheels on
> them). The plants eat most of the waste and help to keep the water nice and
> clear.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Laurie Brown
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 1:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UGF question...
>
>
>
> you should have a lift tube on the undergravel filter plate and a small
> powerhead on the top of the lift tube.
> the powerhead will suck water from beneath the plate and push it out near
> the surface to keep the surface water moving and drawing in oxygen. As the
> water gets sucked down thru the plate it also draws the wast and such down
> into and under the gravel and pretty much traps it there. You still need to
> vaccum the gravel to clean out excess waste though.
> How often depends on how populated you keep your tank.
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> > wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
> I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an
> undergravel filter. There is a tube that the air tube
> and stone go down and then this is hooked up to an air
> pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely but I don't
> see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on
> a "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
> I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into
> the tube suck the waste to the bottom of the tank.
> Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me,
> if so? I want to make sure the tank stays clean since the
> dwarf is supposed to be more sensitive.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
> NEW PHOTO WEBSITE.....going to take a while to get it up to snuff.
> Check it out
> http://www.betterphoto.com/gallery/gallery.asp?memberID=104982
>
> ---------------------------------
> TV dinner still cooling?
> Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22118 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
You should start off with some simple easy to grow low light plants that do
not need CO2 or fancy lighting.

PlantGeek.net has a page of very easy and easy plants here...

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

You can also just use some floating plants like anacharis, hornwort and
guppy grass and bottom floating plants like java moss which will do lots for
the overall ecology of your tank and give it a more natural feel... while
giving you more confidence that you can make plants grow in your tanks.

The floating plants do really well because they get CO2 from the air and
plenty of light because they are floating close to the light, then they will
suck up the excess nitrates and phosphates in your tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF question...

I haven't been brave enough yet to try live plants...
Maybe when I get my big tank. That thing is going to be so full, I hope I
can get fit water in it. LOL

Thanks for your help.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

> You can also use airstones in the lift tube to create the uplift of
> water instead of a powerhead…
>
>
>
> I used to have ugf on my tanks, but I have since put live plants in
> the tanks and no longer have any need for that. I have 2 55 gallon
> tanks and they haeach have 2 Emperor 400 HOB filters (each filter has
> 2 bio wheels on them). The plants eat most of the waste and help to
> keep the water nice and clear.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Laurie Brown
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 1:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UGF question...
>
>
>
> you should have a lift tube on the undergravel filter plate and a
> small powerhead on the top of the lift tube.
> the powerhead will suck water from beneath the plate and push it out
> near the surface to keep the surface water moving and drawing in
> oxygen. As the water gets sucked down thru the plate it also draws the
> wast and such down into and under the gravel and pretty much traps it
> there. You still need to vaccum the gravel to clean out excess waste
though.
> How often depends on how populated you keep your tank.
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com>
<mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> > wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
> I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an undergravel
> filter. There is a tube that the air tube and stone go down and then
> this is hooked up to an air pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely
> but I don't see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on a
> "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
> I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into the tube suck the
> waste to the bottom of the tank.
> Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me, if so? I
> want to make sure the tank stays clean since the dwarf is supposed to
> be more sensitive.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22119 From: Jerry Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
The plants eat most of the waste and help to keep the water nice and
clear.



Eric



Eric, I'm actually setting up 12 x 20 gal. tanks to study a easy method
using plants for removing the waste of the tank. I have few tanks than I
don't made a water change since 1 year. Just prune the fast growing plants
inside, every time I remove leave of plants from the tank, I remove also
waste. I will update my website with the results.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22120 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
I have hornwort and a few others...no fancy lighting...no CO2...they grow
just fine. Petco carries some bulbs (a pack of 5 or 6 bulbs of various
kinds) that seem to do well (when my fish don't outstrip their growth
heheeh)

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF question...

You should start off with some simple easy to grow low light plants that do
not need CO2 or fancy lighting.

PlantGeek.net has a page of very easy and easy plants here...

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

You can also just use some floating plants like anacharis, hornwort and
guppy grass and bottom floating plants like java moss which will do lots for
the overall ecology of your tank and give it a more natural feel... while
giving you more confidence that you can make plants grow in your tanks.

The floating plants do really well because they get CO2 from the air and
plenty of light because they are floating close to the light, then they will
suck up the excess nitrates and phosphates in your tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF question...

I haven't been brave enough yet to try live plants...
Maybe when I get my big tank. That thing is going to be so full, I hope I
can get fit water in it. LOL

Thanks for your help.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

> You can also use airstones in the lift tube to create the uplift of
> water instead of a powerhead.
>
>
>
> I used to have ugf on my tanks, but I have since put live plants in
> the tanks and no longer have any need for that. I have 2 55 gallon
> tanks and they haeach have 2 Emperor 400 HOB filters (each filter has
> 2 bio wheels on them). The plants eat most of the waste and help to
> keep the water nice and clear.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Laurie Brown
> Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 1:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] UGF question...
>
>
>
> you should have a lift tube on the undergravel filter plate and a
> small powerhead on the top of the lift tube.
> the powerhead will suck water from beneath the plate and push it out
> near the surface to keep the surface water moving and drawing in
> oxygen. As the water gets sucked down thru the plate it also draws the
> wast and such down into and under the gravel and pretty much traps it
> there. You still need to vaccum the gravel to clean out excess waste
though.
> How often depends on how populated you keep your tank.
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com>
<mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> > wrote:
> Hi Guys,
>
> I was wondering if you could tell me how my UGF works.
> I bought a small tank for a dwarf puffer and it has an undergravel
> filter. There is a tube that the air tube and stone go down and then
> this is hooked up to an air pump. So, the tank stays aerated nicely
> but I don't see how the waste is being removed. The gravel sits on a
> "plate" that the tube and air tube are hooked up to.
> I guess what I don't get is how can blowing air into the tube suck the
> waste to the bottom of the tank.
> Anyone have this type of set up? Can you explain it to me, if so? I
> want to make sure the tank stays clean since the dwarf is supposed to
> be more sensitive.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22121 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: UGF question...
Thanks for posting those links! I'm doing my homework before I convert 1 of
my tanks to a planted tank and this site will help a lot!

Donna


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 7:42 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF question...


You should start off with some simple easy to grow low light plants that do
not need CO2 or fancy lighting.

PlantGeek.net has a page of very easy and easy plants here...

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

You can also just use some floating plants like anacharis, hornwort and
guppy grass and bottom floating plants like java moss which will do lots for
the overall ecology of your tank and give it a more natural feel... while
giving you more confidence that you can make plants grow in your tanks.

The floating plants do really well because they get CO2 from the air and
plenty of light because they are floating close to the light, then they will
suck up the excess nitrates and phosphates in your tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22122 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
What kind of gouramis do you have?

Thus far, they seem to be exhibiting typical gourami behavior. Most
people do not give the gouramis what they need, a well planted tank with
plenty of places to hide. Once they become acclimated to their
surroundings, you will see them more. They also do need a good, clear
area in which to swim and exhibit more typical gourami behaviors.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:00 AM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do
they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come
out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come
out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them
much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs
Peaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22123 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
I've always fed a varied diet. Some live foods, some flake, some freeze dried, etc. Gouramis are omnivorous and do not require a special diet.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 8:56 AM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

I adopted/saved a couple of blue gourami's two years ago and they were OK at times but would also be very skittish and hide in the plants a lot at other times. They were severely stunted from being in a 10G tank for several years and regularly had minor health issues. I'm sure that did not help. The male swam up to the big fish pond in the sky recently and now the female is even more skittish.

What other kind of fish do you have? Sometimes, fast darting fish like zebra danio's will cause them to become more skittish (as darting fish are often a sign of danger in the wild). If you have other fish that do stay out in the open, they will often help a skittish fish feel more comfortable. These are called "dither" fish.

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:00 PM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/789 - Release Date: 5/4/2007 5:49 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ·´¯`·.¸¸.>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Hi,

I have no other fish at present. I wanted some rainbows but they didn't have any. I only got them yesterday too so maybe I should give them time to adjust. I hope they will at least let me see them once in a while. I will buy more fish as soon as I can though. This is a new tank as well:)

Also are there any foods that I should feed them because I remember that someone had a dwarf Gourami die of bloat I think. If I should have anything extra on hand I sure would appreciate knowing about it:)

Thanks Again to Everyone:)
hugs
Peaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22124 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/5/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
Its a fresh water tank and the reason I have babies is because one of
my mollys had them. I havent used antibotics in it. The tank is 7
weeks old and Ive been putting cycle and prime in it. It has real
plants in it.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Orange algae can be few thing,
> 1- red algae, Red Algae, can be red, pink, orange, yellow,
> 2- may be not algae at all cyanobacteria
>
>
> Are we talking about a salt or fresh water tank ?
> You have baby fish in a cycling tank ?
> Have you use antibiotic in the tank ???
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 13:19
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Could somebody help me with the orange algea
in my 10
> gallon
>
> Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that the
> baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old
now.
> Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I
wonder
> if thats where the orange is coming from
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22125 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Well, maybe, but the nations that would be complaining about others
non-compliance would be those nations that stand to benefit from such
declarations, while those that do not will ignore them, as is the usual
behavior.

Right now there are 192 member nations. The United States foots the UN
budget with a payment that, when made, amounts to approximately 25% of
the Un's budget for a given year. This does not account for the tax
breaks the UN gets for its property in Manhattan, nor the tax breaks
nations receive for their delegates quarters in New York and environs.

I am not a big fan of the UN, even when they do things that may favor
us. It appears to be mainly a forum for tin horn politicians to poke the
larger nations in the eye at any opportunity, rather than a body that
works to make the world a better place to live in for all people.

As politics governs the availability of many fish to hobbyists
worldwide, this site may be worth keeping an eye on for policies that
may also affect the availability of fish. Areas that are experiencing
drought or areas in which water flow is affected by any of a number of
events, including, and especially by man, some species may disappear,
not only from the market, but from the world itself.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Hey Steve,

Quote from "About Us" page...

"1992 - The idea of forming a world water council was first proposed in
1992
at the UN's International Conference on Environment and Development in
Dublin and at the Rio de Janeiro Earth Summit."

If this is an offshoot of the UN, we better all be careful or we'll be
paying more for water than we do for gas. If anyone even watches the
news
on a regular basis, they should know that the UN is fraught with waste,
fraud and outright criminal activities.

God help us all if the UN ever starts determining our water supply
prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 4:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Not directly related to fishkeeping, but more related in a tangential
way is
this site:

World Water Council [pdf, Macromedia Flash Player]
http://www.worldwatercouncil.org <http://www.worldwatercouncil.org>

In 1997, the World Water Council had its first official forum in
Marrakech,
and since then they have continued their work on "critical water issues
at
all levels." Some of these issues include efficient water conservation,
water use management, and other relevant matters.
With its compelling visual images and design, the homepage contains
sections
that provide information on upcoming World Water Forums and some very
helpful overviews of their work. One such general overview may be found
in
the "Water at a Glance" area, which provides information on the nature
of
freshwater resources around the globe. Persons involved in water policy
and
international affairs may wish to look over their online library, which
includes their annual reports, synopses of materials covered in the
Water
Forum meetings, and papers such as "The Right to Water: From Concept To
Implementation". It is also worth noting that many of the materials on
the
site are available in French and Spanish.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2007.
http://scout.wisc.edu/ <http://scout.wisc.edu/>

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22126 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
Mem, I would have to say that it probably depends on a number of
variables, i.e., what type of animal previously inhabited the tank,
how long it inhabited the tank and how much of its urine actually
reached the silicone to penetrate it (a good layer of frequently
changed bedding may have absorbed most of this waste). In my case, I
experienced leaching at toxic levels within 20 to 30 minutes of
setting up the tank and introducing the fish, after first giving the
tank a thorough washing, which I indicated in a follow-up post. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> -OPPS! Ray, how long would it take to see the affects of the
> leaching?
>
> Mem
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Roxanne, Hard to say if those are good prices or not without
> knowing
> > what is meant by "small" and "large". To some people, a 10
gallon
> tank
> > is large, and a 10 gallon tank can be bought new for $10 or very
> little
> > more. I believe too, that its Petsmart that holds
periodic "Dollar
> per
> > Gallon" (up to 55 gallons) sales during the year. You might want
> to
> > check one of those sales out if these used Humane Society tanks
> don't
> > turn out to be bargains, although that is a good cause.
> >
> > The one thing you have to watch out for is if the tank has been
> > previously used for small mammals or reptiles. Do not buy one of
> these
> > unless you're prepared to strip out the excess silicone beading
and
> lay
> > down a fresh bead in all seams. The undiluted urine from these
> animals
> > can permeate the silicone sealant of their tank, rendering it
quite
> > toxic to fish when its filled with water, and the urine then
> > continually leaches back out. Not all such tanks will be so
> affected,
> > by there's no way of knowing, unless you want to first test it
with
> > feeder goldfish. So you're better off not fooling around with a
> tank
> > known to house animals as, if they're not fish-habitable, the
work
> and
> > added expense might not be worth it. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> > >
> > > After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used aquarium
I
> > > finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
> > > Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
> > > Roxanne
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22127 From: Memrie Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium source
I my be ok then. My gals have been in this tank for a month now and
seem to be doing quite well. Strangly enough it is doing better than
one of my cycled tanks. Now that tank is having major issues with,
well you name it. It even started doing another cycle. I am not sure
what I did wrong but I did somehting terrible. Unless one of my
little "helpers" did.
I have gone to 10% daily water changes to keep my ammonia levels
below 1 ppm.
Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Mem, I would have to say that it probably depends on a number of
> variables, i.e., what type of animal previously inhabited the tank,
> how long it inhabited the tank and how much of its urine actually
> reached the silicone to penetrate it (a good layer of frequently
> changed bedding may have absorbed most of this waste). In my case,
I
> experienced leaching at toxic levels within 20 to 30 minutes of
> setting up the tank and introducing the fish, after first giving
the
> tank a thorough washing, which I indicated in a follow-up post. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@> wrote:
> >
> > -OPPS! Ray, how long would it take to see the affects of the
> > leaching?
> >
> > Mem
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Roxanne, Hard to say if those are good prices or not without
> > knowing
> > > what is meant by "small" and "large". To some people, a 10
> gallon
> > tank
> > > is large, and a 10 gallon tank can be bought new for $10 or
very
> > little
> > > more. I believe too, that its Petsmart that holds
> periodic "Dollar
> > per
> > > Gallon" (up to 55 gallons) sales during the year. You might
want
> > to
> > > check one of those sales out if these used Humane Society tanks
> > don't
> > > turn out to be bargains, although that is a good cause.
> > >
> > > The one thing you have to watch out for is if the tank has
been
> > > previously used for small mammals or reptiles. Do not buy one
of
> > these
> > > unless you're prepared to strip out the excess silicone beading
> and
> > lay
> > > down a fresh bead in all seams. The undiluted urine from these
> > animals
> > > can permeate the silicone sealant of their tank, rendering it
> quite
> > > toxic to fish when its filled with water, and the urine then
> > > continually leaches back out. Not all such tanks will be so
> > affected,
> > > by there's no way of knowing, unless you want to first test it
> with
> > > feeder goldfish. So you're better off not fooling around with
a
> > tank
> > > known to house animals as, if they're not fish-habitable, the
> work
> > and
> > > added expense might not be worth it. Ray
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > After scouring the ads and Craigslist ect for a used
aquarium
> I
> > > > finally had an idea and called the local Humane Society.
> > > > Yup! They have them. $5 for small and $10 for larger ones.
> > > > Roxanne
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22128 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council



<snipped> The United States foots the UN
budget with a payment that, when made, amounts to approximately 25% of
the Un's budget for a given year. <snipped>



That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and have been
since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices in 2000



Eri



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22129 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Could somebody help me with the orange algea in my 10 gallon
THANK YOU JERRY. LENNY COULD YOU RESPOND TO THIS PLEASE.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Its a fresh water tank and the reason I have babies is because one
of
> my mollys had them. I havent used antibotics in it. The tank is 7
> weeks old and Ive been putting cycle and prime in it. It has real
> plants in it.
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Orange algae can be few thing,
> > 1- red algae, Red Algae, can be red, pink, orange, yellow,
> > 2- may be not algae at all cyanobacteria
> >
> >
> > Are we talking about a salt or fresh water tank ?
> > You have baby fish in a cycling tank ?
> > Have you use antibiotic in the tank ???
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 5 mai 2007 13:19
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Could somebody help me with the orange
algea
> in my 10
> > gallon
> >
> > Has anybody heard of orange algea. Its on the screen thing that
the
> > baby fish are in. My tank is still cyling. Its about 7 weeks old
> now.
> > Its still in the ammonia stage. Ive been putting cycle in it. I
> wonder
> > if thats where the orange is coming from
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22130 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Of that arrearage I am aware, and the arrearage goes beyond what you state. However, the fact is that the UN, in all its wisdom, expects the host country to foot fully one quarter of the cost of its operations, plus the additional costs of providing tax free properties, the expense of providing security to visiting dignitaries of various countries, etc. The partial withholding of the assessment is, in part, a protest of those additional costs, as well as a protest of how the money is used, and the percentage of the budget this country is assessed.

However, this is not a proper topic for the list to concentrate on, and any further discussion of this type should be moved off list. The point of the original post was to lead one to a site that discusses water resources available in the world and how they are used, or misused.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 11:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council



<snipped> The United States foots the UN
budget with a payment that, when made, amounts to approximately 25% of
the Un's budget for a given year. <snipped>



That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and have been
since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices in 2000



Eri



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22131 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: there is a picture of the orange algea in this folder
The folder is named memphisgirl39's orange algea in 10 gallo
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22132 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: there is a picture of the orange algea in this folder
It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and not
enough light

Soutions :
1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 12:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this folder

The folder is named memphisgirl39's orange algea in 10 gallo



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22133 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Good! Thank God for GWB (POTUS) and SCOTUS!!!!

We shouldn't be paying 25% anyhow! If there are 192 members, then we should
only pay 1/192nd... not 1/4th... plus all the criminals that get away with
every crime imaginable, up to and including murder, because of their
so-called "diplomatic immunity". I know the reasons for it, but because the
UN is in the USA, we have a much higher percentage of "forgiven" crimes,
compared to smaller embassies in other countries.

I wish the other 191 nations would vote to move the UN... maybe to Venezuela
or Cuba... then I'm sure the far-left would be happy. I know the far-right
sure would be! :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

<snipped> The United States foots the UN budget with a payment that, when
made, amounts to approximately 25% of the Un's budget for a given year.
<snipped>

That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and have been
since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices in 2000

Eri

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date: 5/5/2007
10:34 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22134 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the orange s
RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22135 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: THANKS FOR RESPONDING GERALD
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22136 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22137 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
How can explain in a simple way the Redox, Algae are reactive oxygen
species, so by changing the ions of oxygen with peroxide or a Ozone
generator you have you can control them, but you need to know what you are
doing . For the silicate absorbing resin, Hagen sold a kit for remove
phosphate, that's will do .

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 15:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.

Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22138 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
Those are solution , do you have something to test the phosphate ???? both
from the tank and the tap water. ??? You better to keep it simple, do a
water change (but if the tap water contain a lot of phosphate it will not
change anything) , increase the light and reduce the food




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 15:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.

Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22139 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.
This is the link for a phosphate remover from hagen, it have it's limit,
fist remove the most algae you can, make a good water change, and increase
the light.

http://tinyurl.com/3dmnn8




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 16:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post
right.

How can explain in a simple way the Redox, Algae are reactive oxygen
species, so by changing the ions of oxygen with peroxide or a Ozone
generator you have you can control them, but you need to know what you are
doing . For the silicate absorbing resin, Hagen sold a kit for remove
phosphate, that's will do .

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 15:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Gerald here are the questions. It didnt post right.

Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22140 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Question about plecos
I have several tanks and have a couple of plecos. I do not have algae
problems (thank God) but the tanks are spotless!!! I put algae wafers
in but I think the other fish get to them before the plecos do...could
they starve to death? It seems they are always sucking but have
nothing to suck?

Thanks,

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22141 From: Peaches Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis Please formgive my lateness in respondi
Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Steve Szabo, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

What kind of gouramis do you have?

Thus far, they seem to be exhibiting typical gourami behavior. Most people do not give the gouramis what they need, a well planted tank with plenty of places to hide. Once they become acclimated to their surroundings, you will see them more. They also do need a good, clear area in which to swim and exhibit more typical gourami behaviors.

\\Steve// -----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 12:00 AM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs Peaches

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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Hi There,

I am sorry to be so ling responding when everyone helped me so quickly. I got a killer eye ache and had to be taken to the ER Saturday morning. I am okay now though.

Let's see:)

Copper and Penny are golden gouramis. They seem to be the most timid.
Dusty, Powder, and Sky are Opalene Gouramis. They are EVERYWHERE:)
David Showie is a Dwarf Gourami?? (He is Tourquise and sort of a peach color) Not at all shy now.

I have plants in the corners of the aquarium and along the sides with the middle of the aquarium open. My tank is a coffee table aquarium and is 36 inches square. The light is in the center of the bottom of it. OH the tank if fifteen inches deep. I have filled it but left an inch and a half at the surface.

They are getting flakes and freeze dried blood worms. I love to hear the "gobble up" their food.

I think they are doing okay though. Now they are swimming around some and not hiding as much. They have several "caves"to go into as well.

Since I am the only one here, my house is quiet except for the cooing of my doves. I heard they like quiet. I hope they get a little bigger so I can see them better:) They are about two inches now.

Again, thanks to all who have tried to help me:)

hugs
Peaches

+++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22142 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Put the wafers only after you close all the light , including the one in the
room.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de ipartyforfun
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 16:16
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Question about plecos

I have several tanks and have a couple of plecos. I do not have algae
problems (thank God) but the tanks are spotless!!! I put algae wafers
in but I think the other fish get to them before the plecos do...could
they starve to death? It seems they are always sucking but have
nothing to suck?

Thanks,

Jennifer



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22143 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis
You didn't mention what kind of gouramis. Try and meet their habitat
requirements and they will be more comfortable. I have dwarf
gouramis and have provided floating plants for them to swim under,
they seem to like it and it makes them feel protected.

However, have patience. Most fish will hide for a bit when you first
bring them home. That is completely normal. I think you might be
panicking a bit.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Peaches" <Iluvdoves@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering
do they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't
come out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me
and come out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able
to see them much.
>
> I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.
>
> Any Information would be helpful.
>
> I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.
>
> Thanks in advance:)
>
> hugs
> Peaches
>
> +++ My #1 Tag line is: I LOVE MOKUM MAIL! +++
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
------------
> {image}
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22144 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
It sounds like your tank is possibly overstocked (too many fish for
your size aquarium). That will definitely contribute to it being
stinky. Make sure your vacuuming the gravel thoroughly once a week or
else all the poop will build up.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <coryswalter@...> wrote:
>
> It is a 30 gal tank, get the odor about every 6 months, have gourami,
swords, neon tetra, black tetra, strawberry & blueberry tetras,
headlight/taillights, and 2 orange w/black tetras.....several corys and
a rather large placo
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22145 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about fish odor
Thanks for info. I am looseing the last batch of fish put in, some red swords, so the population is dwindling fast. And I have 2 very large, happy cory cats......



____________________________________________________________________________________
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22146 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Whatever...and here I thought you were intelligent...istead I see you only
know how to spout the necon facist crap...what a shame. Necon idiots only
don't like the UN because the UN makes countries accountable for their
actions...something facists can't handle.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 1:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Good! Thank God for GWB (POTUS) and SCOTUS!!!!

We shouldn't be paying 25% anyhow! If there are 192 members, then we should
only pay 1/192nd... not 1/4th... plus all the criminals that get away with
every crime imaginable, up to and including murder, because of their
so-called "diplomatic immunity". I know the reasons for it, but because the
UN is in the USA, we have a much higher percentage of "forgiven" crimes,
compared to smaller embassies in other countries.

I wish the other 191 nations would vote to move the UN... maybe to Venezuela
or Cuba... then I'm sure the far-left would be happy. I know the far-right
sure would be! :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

<snipped> The United States foots the UN budget with a payment that, when
made, amounts to approximately 25% of the Un's budget for a given year.
<snipped>

That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and have been
since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices in 2000

Eri

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date: 5/5/2007
10:34 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22147 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22148 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Can plecos starve? Yes. They can even starve in a tank with plentiful
algae if it is not of a type the pleco likes. In addition to the algae
wafers, try feeding zucchini that is par boiled. Just slice it, parboil
it and place in the tank just before lights out. Most seem to like it,
and there are even pictures of plecos circulation that show them wearing
a zucchini "collar". The season for zucchini will soon be upon us and
this is a method to get rid of some of the neighborhood's excess <g>.
Also, an important component of their diet seems to be wood, so have a
piece or two of driftwood in your tank as decoration and for the plecos.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 4:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about plecos

I have several tanks and have a couple of plecos. I do not have algae
problems (thank God) but the tanks are spotless!!! I put algae wafers
in but I think the other fish get to them before the plecos do...could
they starve to death? It seems they are always sucking but have
nothing to suck?

Thanks,

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22149 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Gouramis Please formgive my lateness in respondi
Golden and opaline gouramis are variations of the same fish
_Trichogaster trichopterus_. They will grow to about 6" in length. If
your last is a dwarf, he will remain much smaller, about 3.5 inches, and
may become a target for the others in the tank, if they are not busy
among themselves. This is why it is important to have the hiding spaces
for the fish, so they have some place to go when being harassed by the
others.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 5:45 PM
To: aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about Gouramis Please formgive my
lateness in responding:)

Hello Everyone Aquaticlife

Steve Szabo, You wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

What kind of gouramis do you have?

Thus far, they seem to be exhibiting typical gourami behavior. Most
people do not give the gouramis what they need, a well planted tank with
plenty of places to hide. Once they become acclimated to their
surroundings, you will see them more. They also do need a good, clear
area in which to swim and exhibit more typical gourami behaviors.

\\Steve// -----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Saturday, May
05, 2007 12:00 AM To: aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about
Gouramis

Hello Everyone,

I have a question for anyone who has had Gouramis. I was wondering do
they hide all of the time?? I just got some today and they won't come
out of hiding. I just wondered if they will ever get used to me and come
out and swim. If they hide all of the time, I won't be able to see them
much.

I like to hear them come to the surface for air once in a while.

Any Information would be helpful.

I checked on the fish profiles but I didn't find out much there.

Thanks in advance:)

hugs Peaches

Hi There,

I am sorry to be so ling responding when everyone helped me so quickly.
I got a killer eye ache and had to be taken to the ER Saturday morning.
I am okay now though.

Let's see:)

Copper and Penny are golden gouramis. They seem to be the most timid.
Dusty, Powder, and Sky are Opalene Gouramis. They are EVERYWHERE:)
David Showie is a Dwarf Gourami?? (He is Tourquise and sort of a peach
color) Not at all shy now.

I have plants in the corners of the aquarium and along the sides with
the middle of the aquarium open. My tank is a coffee table aquarium and
is 36 inches square. The light is in the center of the bottom of it. OH
the tank if fifteen inches deep. I have filled it but left an inch and a
half at the surface.

They are getting flakes and freeze dried blood worms. I love to hear the
"gobble up" their food.

I think they are doing okay though. Now they are swimming around some
and not hiding as much. They have several "caves"to go into as well.

Since I am the only one here, my house is quiet except for the cooing of
my doves. I heard they like quiet. I hope they get a little bigger so I
can see them better:) They are about two inches now.

Again, thanks to all who have tried to help me:)

hugs
Peaches
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22150 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
This is a fish forum and not a political forum so please talk fish
and ask questions about fish, please.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Whatever...and here I thought you were intelligent...istead I see
you only
> know how to spout the necon facist crap...what a shame. Necon
idiots only
> don't like the UN because the UN makes countries accountable for
their
> actions...something facists can't handle.
>
> Eric
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 1:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council
>
> Good! Thank God for GWB (POTUS) and SCOTUS!!!!
>
> We shouldn't be paying 25% anyhow! If there are 192 members, then
we should
> only pay 1/192nd... not 1/4th... plus all the criminals that get
away with
> every crime imaginable, up to and including murder, because of
their
> so-called "diplomatic immunity". I know the reasons for it, but
because the
> UN is in the USA, we have a much higher percentage of "forgiven"
crimes,
> compared to smaller embassies in other countries.
>
> I wish the other 191 nations would vote to move the UN... maybe to
Venezuela
> or Cuba... then I'm sure the far-left would be happy. I know the
far-right
> sure would be! :-D
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council
>
> <snipped> The United States foots the UN budget with a payment
that, when
> made, amounts to approximately 25% of the Un's budget for a given
year.
> <snipped>
>
> That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and
have been
> since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices
in 2000
>
> Eri
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date:
5/5/2007
> 10:34 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> .´¯`..¸¸.><((((º>..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸><((((º> ¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸<º((((><¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...<º
((((><.´¯`..¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22151 From: Jerry Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22152 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Just make sure that if you feed any squash or other fruit or
vegetable that has a rind like the squash , slice through the rind
so that the rind does not stop the gills from working. It has
happened so please be carefull with your wards in the water.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Can plecos starve? Yes. They can even starve in a tank with
plentiful
> algae if it is not of a type the pleco likes. In addition to the
algae
> wafers, try feeding zucchini that is par boiled. Just slice it,
parboil
> it and place in the tank just before lights out. Most seem to like
it,
> and there are even pictures of plecos circulation that show them
wearing
> a zucchini "collar". The season for zucchini will soon be upon us
and
> this is a method to get rid of some of the neighborhood's excess
<g>.
> Also, an important component of their diet seems to be wood, so
have a
> piece or two of driftwood in your tank as decoration and for the
plecos.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22153 From: coryswalter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Building an aquarium
I am still working on a home for my angels. Could I get plexiglass
and other materials and build a 55gal aquarium cheaper than I can buy
one? If so, where might I look for the dimensions and plans? Thanks,
Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22154 From: Laurie Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Newbie to the group!!! Florida
I just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Laurie and I'm from
Florida. My husband and I started with our first tank in January and
are now suffering from MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)... OMG, I didn't
believe that it could happen. I kept reading alot of posts in
different groups that said it would happen, but I didn't think it
would. We are sooooooo hooked and want MORE.. We started with a 29
gallon, then a 10 gallon and now we recently got another 29 gallon
cycled too... OMG, help!!!! We have all freshwater tanks, but we
eventually wanna get a saltwater tank. We'll probably have to
mortgage the ranch to do it though... so that'll be a little bit.

Sorry that I got long winded, but when I talk about the tanks and fish
I get all excited... LOL

I look forward to learning alot. I don't have a whole lot of
knowledge in the fish area, so I'll sit back and just learn. Thanks
in advance for all the info.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22155 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Hi Cory,

Buy a used tank, much cheaper than the price of the acrylic pieces you will
buy. There is an aquariumbuilders yahoo group if you want to run some ideas by
a group of people that have built tanks.

"Generally" saving money on building a tank is usually when you want
something really big, like a 400 gallon tank. Or if you want to build something
unique and different.

Mike

In a message dated 5/6/2007 6:24:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
coryswalter@... writes:

am still working on a home for my angels. Could I get plexiglass
and other materials and build a 55gal aquarium cheaper than I can buy
one? If so, where might I look for the dimensions and plans? Thanks,
Cory





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22156 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case, the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22157 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: the orange stuff in my tank
I just found out that my tap water comes from wells. Could that have
anything to do with it. Here they have 4 wells that goes to the public.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22158 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie to the group!!! Florida
Hi Laurie,
Welcome to the wonderful world of MTS :)

Living in Florida you have not have to Mortgage the house to buy a saltwater
setup. I have seen plenty of aquarium setups on ebay that are located in
different parts of Florida.

Check ebay.com
aquabid.com
freecycle.org for a local list.
craigslist.org for a local craigslist.
local news papers
pennysaver papers
flea markets
garage sales
estate sales

I have purchased tanks ffrom all but the estate sales, just haven't bothered
to go to one yet, but occasionally see them advertised at them.

Also check out glasscages.com
I think they are in your area of the country.

Oh I left out my favorite! Local aquarium society meetings! An excellent
way to buy tanks, filters, fish, plants, fish food, and other supplies.

I picked up 3 bags of cichlids last night, 3 to to bag for 3 dollars. Nine
fish for 3 bucks!

I have MTS as well, 25 tanks in the garage, and 25 empty ones that I want to
use, but cannot as I am moving in a couple months.

Happy Fish keeping.
Mike
SVAS.org

In a message dated 5/6/2007 7:07:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
lilpeach911@... writes:




I just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Laurie and I'm from
Florida. My husband and I started with our first tank in January and
are now suffering from MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)... OMG, I didn't
believe that it could happen. I kept reading alot of posts in
different groups that said it would happen, but I didn't think it
would. We are sooooooo hooked and want MORE.. We started with a 29
gallon, then a 10 gallon and now we recently got another 29 gallon
cycled too... OMG, help!!!! We have all freshwater tanks, but we
eventually wanna get a saltwater tank. We'll probably have to
mortgage the ranch to do it though... so that'll be a little bit.

Sorry that I got long winded, but when I talk about the tanks and fish
I get all excited... LOL

I look forward to learning alot. I don't have a whole lot of
knowledge in the fish area, so I'll sit back and just learn. Thanks
in advance for all the info.

Laurie








************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22159 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Yes i am going to call my water company
I am going to call my water company and get a report of whats in my
water. To me thats strange it comes from wells.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22160 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Silica/ Quartz?
Hi Steve,
Are you talking about silica dust? I wasn't aware there was silica in
water.
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22161 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Generally, you are better off buying a tank of that size. By the time you have purchased the needed materials, you are already close to the cost of a mass manufactured tank. Once you add in your time, your cost will far exceed having purchased a tank.

Among other considerations, you will need to ensure that your materials are properly cut, that the cuts are straight and proper, that the tank is structured properly with perfect 90° angles at the corners, etc. You will also need to find a way to hold things together to let the sealant you use properly set to hold everything together.

I think you may be getting the picture now. Yes, it is an interesting project, and it can be fun to do, but it is not really a way to save money, and, in the long run, may end up costing you more than a mass produced tank.

Look for a tank sale, or cruise the ads for a used tank, and you will probably be better off.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 9:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Building an aquarium

I am still working on a home for my angels. Could I get plexiglass
and other materials and build a 55gal aquarium cheaper than I can buy
one? If so, where might I look for the dimensions and plans? Thanks,
Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22162 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
If there is a source of silica available to the water, then yes. AS I
mentioned earlier today, check with your water people to see if they do
a measurement for silica in the water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 10:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] the orange stuff in my tank

I just found out that my tap water comes from wells. Could that have
anything to do with it. Here they have 4 wells that goes to the public.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22163 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Depends on the water source. Silica is a molecule, like water, and it
can be found as a solution in water where the molecules are available to
be used. Quarts is a solid form of silica, otherwise known as silicon
dioxide, as water is dihydrogen oxide. Silica dust could be created by
grinding quartz into small enough pieces.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 10:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?

Hi Steve,
Are you talking about silica dust? I wasn't aware there was silica in
water.
Thanks,
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22164 From: Julie Roughley Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Hi Everyone,

In Australia, where a drought has officially been around for more than 10 years, we can't do alot of things, like wash the car with a hose/ watering the garden, further we are constantly reminded that keeping personal showers till around 3 minutes is recommended.

No one has said that fish keeping is bad & should be outlawed & conservation efforts have precedence to enure our native fish species survive.

It's not all doom & gloom!

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Well, maybe, but the nations that would be complaining about others
non-compliance would be those nations that stand to benefit from such
declarations, while those that do not will ignore them, as is the usual
behavior.

Right now there are 192 member nations. The United States foots the UN
budget with a payment that, when made, amounts to approximately 25% of
the Un's budget for a given year. This does not account for the tax
breaks the UN gets for its property in Manhattan, nor the tax breaks
nations receive for their delegates quarters in New York and environs.

I am not a big fan of the UN, even when they do things that may favor
us. It appears to be mainly a forum for tin horn politicians to poke the
larger nations in the eye at any opportunity, rather than a body that
works to make the world a better place to live in for all people.

As politics governs the availability of many fish to hobbyists
worldwide, this site may be worth keeping an eye on for policies that
may also affect the availability of fish. Areas that are experiencing
drought or areas in which water flow is affected by any of a number of
events, including, and especially by man, some species may disappear,
not only from the market, but from the world itself.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 6:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Hey Steve,

Quote from "About Us" page...

"1992 - The idea of forming a world water council was first proposed in
1992
at the UN's International Conference on Environment and Development in
Dublin and at the Rio de Janeiro Earth Summit."

If this is an offshoot of the UN, we better all be careful or we'll be
paying more for water than we do for gas. If anyone even watches the
news
on a regular basis, they should know that the UN is fraught with waste,
fraud and outright criminal activities.

God help us all if the UN ever starts determining our water supply
prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 4:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Not directly related to fishkeeping, but more related in a tangential
way is
this site:

World Water Council [pdf, Macromedia Flash Player]
http://www.worldwatercouncil.org <http://www.worldwatercouncil.org>

In 1997, the World Water Council had its first official forum in
Marrakech,
and since then they have continued their work on "critical water issues
at
all levels." Some of these issues include efficient water conservation,
water use management, and other relevant matters.
With its compelling visual images and design, the homepage contains
sections
that provide information on upcoming World Water Forums and some very
helpful overviews of their work. One such general overview may be found
in
the "Water at a Glance" area, which provides information on the nature
of
freshwater resources around the globe. Persons involved in water policy
and
international affairs may wish to look over their online library, which
includes their annual reports, synopses of materials covered in the
Water
Forum meetings, and papers such as "The Right to Water: From Concept To
Implementation". It is also worth noting that many of the materials on
the
site are available in French and Spanish.

>From The Scout Report, Copyright Internet Scout Project 1994-2007.
http://scout.wisc.edu/ <http://scout.wisc.edu/>

\\Steve//






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22165 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: World Water Council
Where's the moderator??

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 7:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Whatever...and here I thought you were intelligent...istead I see you only
know how to spout the necon facist crap...what a shame. Necon idiots only
don't like the UN because the UN makes countries accountable for their
actions...something facists can't handle.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 1:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

Good! Thank God for GWB (POTUS) and SCOTUS!!!!

We shouldn't be paying 25% anyhow! If there are 192 members, then we should
only pay 1/192nd... not 1/4th... plus all the criminals that get away with
every crime imaginable, up to and including murder, because of their
so-called "diplomatic immunity". I know the reasons for it, but because the
UN is in the USA, we have a much higher percentage of "forgiven" crimes,
compared to smaller embassies in other countries.

I wish the other 191 nations would vote to move the UN... maybe to Venezuela
or Cuba... then I'm sure the far-left would be happy. I know the far-right
sure would be! :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] World Water Council

<snipped> The United States foots the UN budget with a payment that, when
made, amounts to approximately 25% of the Un's budget for a given year.
<snipped>

That is totally false.the US is arrears in their UN payment and have been
since Herr Bush stole the whitehouse with his SCOTUS accomplices in 2000

Eri

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.4/790 - Release Date: 5/5/2007
10:34 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.><((((ş>.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸><((((ş> ¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸<ş((((><¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..<ş((((><ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22166 From: Rich Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> I just found out that my tap water comes from wells. Could that have
> anything to do with it. Here they have 4 wells that goes to the
public.
>
I work for the Water Department in the town that I live in and it sound
to me like you have a high concentration of Iron in the water the only
way to get this out is to buy some purigen or through high levels of
chlorine exposure, it being that the water supply is from well i.e.
ground water source there is a higher likely hood thst it is high level
of iron surface water tends to have less of a mineral concentration
that is in my experience.... the Purigen I mentioned is made by seachem
and you'll need to also buy a fine mesh filter bag. This method should
give as you close to pure water as you want.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22167 From: Richard Haley Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
That is diatoms in the picture just reduce the light to about 8-10 hours go buy some purigen from seachem viola problem solved. Be sure to clean the existing slime out and do a small water change like 10% or so. The purigen will get rid of almost all of your problem. I raise apistos. Boreilli and Rams, and the purigen keeps everything in check. Just a little experimenting led me to this great ion exchange resin. I think you will get the results your after if you try it. It will also get rid of phosphates, and silicas.

memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote: RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder

It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?

1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard






---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22168 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/6/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Thanks for advice. I have gone out on my local freecycle and checked out e-bay (most are pick up only there) and I can see your advice to be sound......it was a thought, though! Thanks for all info......Cory



____________________________________________________________________________________
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22169 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
Jennifer,
try feeding them at night.

Also Zucchini, rinse off one in the sink, slice it in half down the length
and attach it to the side of the tank. Or put it under a rock or decoration to
keep it from floating away.

There are other more nutritious vegetable you can put in there for them to
eat, I just cannot recall them at the moment.

You need to remove the uneaten piece after a day or two as it will go bad and
foul the tank up rather bad.

Mike

In a message dated 5/6/2007 1:17:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Gittieup@... writes:

I have several tanks and have a couple of plecos. I do not have algae
problems (thank God) but the tanks are spotless!!! I put algae wafers
in but I think the other fish get to them before the plecos do...could
they starve to death? It seems they are always sucking but have
nothing to suck?

Thanks,

Jennifer





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22170 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish, especially fry
in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only few) so
if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they don't grow
in a well light tank.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen
products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought
of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain
higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read
that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source
of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence
the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of
possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject
line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new
tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case,
the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the
silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be
accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the
diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels
down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level
than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22171 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Yes i am going to call my water company
Rock Drilled Well have usually more dissolved minerals , nothing strange at
all.

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Yes i am going to call my water company

I am going to call my water company and get a report of whats in my
water. To me thats strange it comes from wells.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22172 From: Wendie Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Question about plecos
I've fed them cukes, zucchini, squash, and know others feed them watermelon, beans, sweet potatoes. Each fish is different. Several of mine won't touch anything, others love it.

I put it in anytime and leave it overnight - sometimes longer if there's not much left as it will be finished shortly. The BN's go crazy over it but the others are more refined. I've heard gold nuggets love the rind but I can't attest to that as I never see mine eat and I've had him well over a year.

Wendie



----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 3:49 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question about plecos



Jennifer,
try feeding them at night.

Also Zucchini, rinse off one in the sink, slice it in half down the length
and attach it to the side of the tank. Or put it under a rock or decoration to
keep it from floating away.

There are other more nutritious vegetable you can put in there for them to
eat, I just cannot recall them at the moment.

You need to remove the uneaten piece after a day or two as it will go bad and
foul the tank up rather bad.

Mike

In a message dated 5/6/2007 1:17:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
Gittieup@... writes:

I have several tanks and have a couple of plecos. I do not have algae
problems (thank God) but the tanks are spotless!!! I put algae wafers
in but I think the other fish get to them before the plecos do...could
they starve to death? It seems they are always sucking but have
nothing to suck?

Thanks,

Jennifer

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22173 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
It can be in suspended particles, in a colloidal or polymeric state, as
silicate iron, or in week acid form .

I get my source for the Book "Silica in natural waters " Roy, CJ and from
"The Soluble Silicates, Their Properties and Uses" Vail, J.G.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de elementalclay@...
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:36
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?

Hi Steve,
Are you talking about silica dust? I wasn't aware there was silica in
water.
Thanks,
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22174 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: the orange stuff in my tank
Are you fry Black Molly ?, if so don't worry to much with the algae, just
remove the one you can, Black Molly are algae eater, I don't know if brown
algae is part of the menu (someone here may know ?) but if so they will
soon put them in their diet.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] the orange stuff in my tank

I just found out that my tap water comes from wells. Could that have
anything to do with it. Here they have 4 wells that goes to the public.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22175 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Roxanne, the problem with algae is with the high silicate, not the silica.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 07:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?

It can be in suspended particles, in a colloidal or polymeric state, as
silicate iron, or in week acid form .

I get my source for the Book "Silica in natural waters " Roy, CJ and from
"The Soluble Silicates, Their Properties and Uses" Vail, J.G.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de elementalclay@...
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:36
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?

Hi Steve,
Are you talking about silica dust? I wasn't aware there was silica in
water.
Thanks,
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22176 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
People in another group think its the good bacteria that everybody
wants. What you think about that. The water company is going to send
me a report of whats in the water. Is there anything wrong with iron
bacteria?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22177 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
Iron Bacteria ????? It's diatom you have, the picture you post do not show
a pattern of iron bacteria, open your toilet reservoir cover , you will see
first if you have iron bacteria and if you have you will see how they
spread.

If I was you I will be more worry about the fry in a tank with ammonia, and
next nitrite will came.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:14
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK

People in another group think its the good bacteria that everybody
wants. What you think about that. The water company is going to send
me a report of whats in the water. Is there anything wrong with iron
bacteria?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22178 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Thanks Jerry,
My well is drilled pretty much in gravel and I have had very little
algae over the years. I was just curious about silica as my knowledge
of it is pretty much limited to ceramic glaze calculations.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22179 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
I look again at you pics, is those ceramic ornaments in the tank, if so I'm
not surprise to see brown algae. They like to grow on ceramic .


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK

Iron Bacteria ????? It's diatom you have, the picture you post do not show
a pattern of iron bacteria, open your toilet reservoir cover , you will see
first if you have iron bacteria and if you have you will see how they
spread.

If I was you I will be more worry about the fry in a tank with ammonia, and
next nitrite will came.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:14
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK

People in another group think its the good bacteria that everybody
wants. What you think about that. The water company is going to send
me a report of whats in the water. Is there anything wrong with iron
bacteria?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22180 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
Silica is silicon dioxide , it's crystal, , quartz, opal, it's also the
common constituent of the sand , Since a Silicate ( the one who create algae
problem) are made of Oxygen and Silicon, people sometime considerate the
Silica as a Silicate, but this is wrong, since the silica do not have an
negative charge.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de elementalclay@...
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?

Thanks Jerry,
My well is drilled pretty much in gravel and I have had very little
algae over the years. I was just curious about silica as my knowledge
of it is pretty much limited to ceramic glaze calculations.
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22181 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Building an aquarium
Here are some DIY sites for info but it's probably cheaper/better to buy a
used 55G. I've seen them for under $50.00. You can often get a new one for
nearly that price on sale.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_plywood_aquarium2.php

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/BuildAnAquarium.html

http://www.aquariumlife.net/diy.asp

http://www.garf.org/tank/buildtank.asp

Here is my DIY tank stand that I built for my 65G for $20.00.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-diy-2000-big-tank-stand.html

Good luck.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Building an aquarium

I am still working on a home for my angels. Could I get plexiglass and other
materials and build a 55gal aquarium cheaper than I can buy one? If so,
where might I look for the dimensions and plans? Thanks, Cory

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22182 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>Do you mean the top of the tolete. That thing that you can take
off. Ya I do need to be thinking of the ammonia.



> Iron Bacteria ????? It's diatom you have, the picture you post
do not show
> a pattern of iron bacteria, open your toilet reservoir cover , you
will see
> first if you have iron bacteria and if you have you will see how
they
> spread.
>
> If I was you I will be more worry about the fry in a tank with
ammonia, and
> next nitrite will came.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:14
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
>
> People in another group think its the good bacteria that everybody
> wants. What you think about that. The water company is going to
send
> me a report of whats in the water. Is there anything wrong with
iron
> bacteria?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22183 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
No the baby thing is made out of net and plastic.
Ill check.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> I look again at you pics, is those ceramic ornaments in the tank,
if so I'm
> not surprise to see brown algae. They like to grow on ceramic .
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jerry
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:43
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
>
> Iron Bacteria ????? It's diatom you have, the picture you post
do not show
> a pattern of iron bacteria, open your toilet reservoir cover , you
will see
> first if you have iron bacteria and if you have you will see how
they
> spread.
>
> If I was you I will be more worry about the fry in a tank with
ammonia, and
> next nitrite will came.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 10:14
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] THE ORANGE STUFF IN MY TANK
>
> People in another group think its the good bacteria that everybody
> wants. What you think about that. The water company is going to
send
> me a report of whats in the water. Is there anything wrong with
iron
> bacteria?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22184 From: Laurie Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Hi Mike, thanks for the response
Yes, it sounds like you've got that sickness too.. WOW!!!! It's so
much for though. Thanks for all the great ideas for websites for me
to check out. I'll give them a shot. I have read that alot of people
don't have good luck though with USED stuff...sounds like you've done
just fine with them.

Good luck on your move... I wouldn't wanna have to be the one that
has to break down all those aquariums and start all over...LOL

Laurie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Hi Laurie,
> Welcome to the wonderful world of MTS :)
>
> Living in Florida you have not have to Mortgage the house to buy a
saltwater
> setup. I have seen plenty of aquarium setups on ebay that are
located in
> different parts of Florida.
>
> Check ebay.com
> aquabid.com
> freecycle.org for a local list.
> craigslist.org for a local craigslist.
> local news papers
> pennysaver papers
> flea markets
> garage sales
> estate sales
>
> I have purchased tanks ffrom all but the estate sales, just haven't
bothered
> to go to one yet, but occasionally see them advertised at them.
>
> Also check out glasscages.com
> I think they are in your area of the country.
>
> Oh I left out my favorite! Local aquarium society meetings! An
excellent
> way to buy tanks, filters, fish, plants, fish food, and other
supplies.
>
> I picked up 3 bags of cichlids last night, 3 to to bag for 3
dollars. Nine
> fish for 3 bucks!
>
> I have MTS as well, 25 tanks in the garage, and 25 empty ones that
I want to
> use, but cannot as I am moving in a couple months.
>
> Happy Fish keeping.
> Mike
> SVAS.org
>
> In a message dated 5/6/2007 7:07:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> lilpeach911@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> I just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Laurie and I'm from
> Florida. My husband and I started with our first tank in January
and
> are now suffering from MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome)... OMG, I
didn't
> believe that it could happen. I kept reading alot of posts in
> different groups that said it would happen, but I didn't think it
> would. We are sooooooo hooked and want MORE.. We started with a 29
> gallon, then a 10 gallon and now we recently got another 29 gallon
> cycled too... OMG, help!!!! We have all freshwater tanks, but we
> eventually wanna get a saltwater tank. We'll probably have to
> mortgage the ranch to do it though... so that'll be a little bit.
>
> Sorry that I got long winded, but when I talk about the tanks and
fish
> I get all excited... LOL
>
> I look forward to learning alot. I don't have a whole lot of
> knowledge in the fish area, so I'll sit back and just learn. Thanks
> in advance for all the info.
>
> Laurie
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22185 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
I lifted up the lid thing and there is orange stuff all in it. So I
guess that means iron bacteria?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22186 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
What you see is probably the result of the iron bacteria combining the iron
in water with oxygen creating rust, so it's the rust you see, if you notice
it's not the same as the one in your tank. In the toilet it's more or less
even, in the tank it's more like a velvet, that's diatom

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 19:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

I lifted up the lid thing and there is orange stuff all in it. So I
guess that means iron bacteria?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22187 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
It's became more clear now, (when we have more info)

So you have iron in your water, algae need Nitrogen, Potassium and Iron, and
since the N and K are always in large quantity, if you cut the iron you cut
the algae.
The Algae need free iron and usually the iron is bound to dissolved organic
carbon DOC , to un bond the iron you need light and only light with
wavelength below 500nm can unbound iron in water, so if you replace your
light with one with lower wavelength , you will reduce the free iron, so the
algae

So to keep it simple, Do not use fluorescent tube, use regular bulb with a
yellowish light , and shade the tank from a windows .

What kind of light you have on your tank

Reducing the light will not reduce the diatom, if you have enough light in
the room to see where you walk without hit a furniture, they have enough
light to survive, you need to use the good light .

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 20:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

What you see is probably the result of the iron bacteria combining the iron
in water with oxygen creating rust, so it's the rust you see, if you notice
it's not the same as the one in your tank. In the toilet it's more or less
even, in the tank it's more like a velvet, that's diatom

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 19:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

I lifted up the lid thing and there is orange stuff all in it. So I
guess that means iron bacteria?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22188 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Sorry I forgot the P , so Nitrogen , Phosphor ( phosphate) Potassium and
Iron

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 20:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

It's became more clear now, (when we have more info)

So you have iron in your water, algae need Nitrogen, Potassium and Iron, and
since the N and K are always in large quantity, if you cut the iron you cut
the algae.
The Algae need free iron and usually the iron is bound to dissolved organic
carbon DOC , to un bond the iron you need light and only light with
wavelength below 500nm can unbound iron in water, so if you replace your
light with one with lower wavelength , you will reduce the free iron, so the
algae

So to keep it simple, Do not use fluorescent tube, use regular bulb with a
yellowish light , and shade the tank from a windows .

What kind of light you have on your tank

Reducing the light will not reduce the diatom, if you have enough light in
the room to see where you walk without hit a furniture, they have enough
light to survive, you need to use the good light .

Gerard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 20:22
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

What you see is probably the result of the iron bacteria combining the iron
in water with oxygen creating rust, so it's the rust you see, if you notice
it's not the same as the one in your tank. In the toilet it's more or less
even, in the tank it's more like a velvet, that's diatom

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 19:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE

I lifted up the lid thing and there is orange stuff all in it. So I
guess that means iron bacteria?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22189 From: Antony Dalton Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Is aquarist what you guys call yourselves? Well, now I'm one.
Greetings to everyone. I'm really hoping for some suggestions and
guidance!

I was just given a custom 150 gallon (60X20X30) glass aquarium.
(It's a long story.) I've had several smaller fresh water aquariums
over the years and always wanted to try a saltwater fish aquarium,
so now here'smy chance.

ALL I have is a drilled aquarium with a single overflow on one end.
I need to build everything else. I'm a mechanical engineer with a
fair amount of experience building things, so I'm actualy looking
forward to building the stand and assembling all the equipment. I
just know there are a thousand things I don't know about: What's
worth spending money on and what's not. What little tricks there
are to make things run more efficiently and make maintenance and
repairs easier. What steps to take to get the aquarium off to a
good start.

I want to do this right and I understand the financial and time
commitment. I would just prefer to learn from other peoples'
experiences (I won't call them mistakes!)

The plan is to use a wet/ dry filter and sump with an in sump
protein skimmer (the Euro Reef RS100 has been reccomended to me),
circulating pump (800gph?), and heater (300 watt?).I'm also going to
use 200 pounds of live rock. Boy the price for that was a shock!
I'm not planning on having a seperate cartrige filter or UV
sterilizer, at least not initialy.

The first question is: Are there any group members in the Tampa
Bay, Florida area that would be interested in helping me with this?
It would sure be nice to have an experienced set of eyes looking
things over. The second question: what equipment brands are good
and what is junk. I understand there is a big difference in quality
out there. Any suggestions before I sink a big chunk of change into
this would be greatly appreciated.

Antony Dalton
Tampa, FL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22190 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response about the orange stuff

Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish, especially fry
in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only few) so
if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they don't grow
in a well light tank.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen
products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought
of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain
higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read
that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source
of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence
the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of
possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject
line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new
tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case,
the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the
silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be
accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the
diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels
down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level
than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22191 From: Jerry Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Steeve what you means ??? The photosynthetic pigment of diatoms is brown



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 21:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish, especially fry
in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only few) so
if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they don't grow
in a well light tank.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen
products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought
of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain
higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read
that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source
of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence
the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of
possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject
line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new
tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case,
the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the
silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be
accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the
diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels
down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level
than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22192 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
Ok the bulb that I have is the one that came with the tank. Its a
fluorescent tube. Should I keep that off during the day. The tank is
getting no outside light. What about the real plants. Will they live
on only the room light on.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> It's became more clear now, (when we have more info)
>
> So you have iron in your water, algae need Nitrogen, Potassium and
Iron, and
> since the N and K are always in large quantity, if you cut the iron
you cut
> the algae.
> The Algae need free iron and usually the iron is bound to dissolved
organic
> carbon DOC , to un bond the iron you need light and only light with
> wavelength below 500nm can unbound iron in water, so if you replace
your
> light with one with lower wavelength , you will reduce the free
iron, so the
> algae
>
> So to keep it simple, Do not use fluorescent tube, use regular bulb
with a
> yellowish light , and shade the tank from a windows .
>
> What kind of light you have on your tank
>
> Reducing the light will not reduce the diatom, if you have enough
light in
> the room to see where you walk without hit a furniture, they have
enough
> light to survive, you need to use the good light .
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jerry
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 20:22
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
>
> What you see is probably the result of the iron bacteria combining
the iron
> in water with oxygen creating rust, so it's the rust you see, if
you notice
> it's not the same as the one in your tank. In the toilet it's more
or less
> even, in the tank it's more like a velvet, that's diatom
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 19:41
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] YES THERE IS ORANGE STUFF IN THE TOLETE
>
> I lifted up the lid thing and there is orange stuff all in it. So I
> guess that means iron bacteria?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22193 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
-Yes I wish i was cycling fishless but petco didnt tell me that of
course.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Steeve what you means ??? The photosynthetic pigment of diatoms is
brown
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 21:59
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish,
especially fry
> in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
> ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only
few) so
> if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they
don't grow
> in a well light tank.
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many
Hagen
> products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always
thought
> of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel
may contain
> higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I
have read
> that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common
source
> of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water
itself. Hence
> the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any
information of
> possible silicates in the water.
>
> However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another
subject
> line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a
new
> tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is
the case,
> the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as
the
> silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica
would be
> accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of
the
> diatoms.
>
> With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient
levels
> down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.
>
> Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower
level
> than normal.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know
to sell
> gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank
rise from PH
> 6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found
in high
> quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in
quantity, you
> have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can
reach 100
> ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have
3 method
> to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue
method)
> Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example
you can't
> use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water
is
> usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem
in tap
> water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not
every
> aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal
with
> what we put in our tank.
>
> Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good
at
> diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment
of the
> problem I base this e-mail.
>
> If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should
have
> a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not
mention
> silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the
report.
> If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or
what
> ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure
silicates
> in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on
until
> you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.
>
> Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
> diatoms in a marine tank:
> http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
> finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
> de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
> there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.
>
> So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to
skip
> the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
> available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes,
as
> well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
> folder
>
>
> It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
> by too
> much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen,
and
> not
> enough light
>
> Soutions :
> Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
> What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
> Whats the Redox.
> Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
> there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp
is
> 76. Just letting you know.
> Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
> What do you think about that?
>
>
>
>
> 1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
> 2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
> 3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
> 4- Plants the aquarium,
> 5- reduce the fish food
> 6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
> also
> change the Redox ,
> 7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
> replace the
> brown,
>
> You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
> reduce
> the food and made water change, they often go with time.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22194 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: right now the ammonia is .65
But Im going to have to wait until tomorrow to phyon it. So if I reduce
the light the orange will go away. Can the plants and fish live without
light.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22195 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Thank you so much Gerald and Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22196 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
OK so whats best. Light or no Light.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish,
especially fry
> in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
> ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only
few) so
> if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they
don't grow
> in a well light tank.
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many
Hagen
> products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always
thought
> of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel
may contain
> higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I
have read
> that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common
source
> of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water
itself. Hence
> the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any
information of
> possible silicates in the water.
>
> However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another
subject
> line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a
new
> tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is
the case,
> the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as
the
> silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica
would be
> accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of
the
> diatoms.
>
> With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient
levels
> down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.
>
> Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower
level
> than normal.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know
to sell
> gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank
rise from PH
> 6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found
in high
> quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in
quantity, you
> have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can
reach 100
> ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have
3 method
> to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue
method)
> Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example
you can't
> use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water
is
> usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem
in tap
> water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not
every
> aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal
with
> what we put in our tank.
>
> Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good
at
> diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment
of the
> problem I base this e-mail.
>
> If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should
have
> a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not
mention
> silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the
report.
> If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or
what
> ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure
silicates
> in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on
until
> you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.
>
> Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
> diatoms in a marine tank:
> http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
> finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
> de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
> there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.
>
> So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to
skip
> the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
> available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes,
as
> well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
> folder
>
>
> It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
> by too
> much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen,
and
> not
> enough light
>
> Soutions :
> Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
> What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
> Whats the Redox.
> Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
> there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp
is
> 76. Just letting you know.
> Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
> What do you think about that?
>
>
>
>
> 1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
> 2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
> 3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
> 4- Plants the aquarium,
> 5- reduce the fish food
> 6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
> also
> change the Redox ,
> 7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
> replace the
> brown,
>
> You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
> reduce
> the food and made water change, they often go with time.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
I'll try to find some photos online for you, but I have seen diatoms come in all kinds of colors. Some is mineral, some is algae. Don't hold your breath, in my drug induces state caused by pain killers, I may forget, however, I'm sure some one will remind me <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 10:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response about the orange stuff

Steeve what you means ??? The photosynthetic pigment of diatoms is brown



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 21:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish, especially fry
in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only few) so
if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they don't grow
in a well light tank.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen
products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought
of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain
higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read
that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source
of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence
the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of
possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject
line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new
tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case,
the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the
silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be
accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the
diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels
down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level
than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22198 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/7/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Check out the Tampa Bay Reef Club--meets in members' homes at
http://www.tampabayreef.com/index.html. Click on the link to the forums
to get the information about this month's meeting set for next Saturday.

On the freshwater side, there is the Tampa bay Aquarium Society, which
could also be a good resource. They can be found at
http://mikejacobs.50megs.com/.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Antony Dalton
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 9:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] wet behind the ears marine aquarist

Is aquarist what you guys call yourselves? Well, now I'm one.
Greetings to everyone. I'm really hoping for some suggestions and
guidance!

I was just given a custom 150 gallon (60X20X30) glass aquarium.
(It's a long story.) I've had several smaller fresh water aquariums
over the years and always wanted to try a saltwater fish aquarium,
so now here'smy chance.

ALL I have is a drilled aquarium with a single overflow on one end.
I need to build everything else. I'm a mechanical engineer with a
fair amount of experience building things, so I'm actualy looking
forward to building the stand and assembling all the equipment. I
just know there are a thousand things I don't know about: What's
worth spending money on and what's not. What little tricks there
are to make things run more efficiently and make maintenance and
repairs easier. What steps to take to get the aquarium off to a
good start.

I want to do this right and I understand the financial and time
commitment. I would just prefer to learn from other peoples'
experiences (I won't call them mistakes!)

The plan is to use a wet/ dry filter and sump with an in sump
protein skimmer (the Euro Reef RS100 has been reccomended to me),
circulating pump (800gph?), and heater (300 watt?).I'm also going to
use 200 pounds of live rock. Boy the price for that was a shock!
I'm not planning on having a seperate cartrige filter or UV
sterilizer, at least not initialy.

The first question is: Are there any group members in the Tampa
Bay, Florida area that would be interested in helping me with this?
It would sure be nice to have an experienced set of eyes looking
things over. The second question: what equipment brands are good
and what is junk. I understand there is a big difference in quality
out there. Any suggestions before I sink a big chunk of change into
this would be greatly appreciated.

Antony Dalton
Tampa, FL
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22199 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: right now the ammonia is .65
Diatom are inhibit by strong light, they need only few light to live
They need iron for survive, the iron is transform with blue light
The more your real plants will grow the less the algae will have nutrient

Knowing that here what to do

Change your fluo for a cool light , of best for regular bulb. For eliminate
the iron
Add more plants. Especially the one who can grow over the water line
Add fresh charcoal in the filter, change it every week, (for reduce the DOC
and iron)


DO NOT REDUCE THE LIGHT WITH DIATOM, it will not change their grow and it
will reduce the activity of you plants, add more yellow light if you can,
(regular bulb, cool light tube)

Just to give you an idea the light in a sunny day are 2000 umol/m2/s the
algae will stop to reproduce over 200 umol/m2/s ( a moderate intense light)
so the more light you put, the more you plants will like and the less the
algae will multiply, but you need light over 500 of wavelength ( red,
yellow)

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 22:50
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] right now the ammonia is .65

But Im going to have to wait until tomorrow to phyon it. So if I reduce
the light the orange will go away. Can the plants and fish live without
light.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22200 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Steeve, I have about 20 books about algae. The best one to identify algae is
"how to know freshwater algae, but you need a microscope. The one she have
in her tank are brown, and they are freshwater diatom . the problem people
have with algae, they are different, so they have to be treat different. In
an aquarium you now exactly how many quantity of plants you have, but the
algae are different, if a tank have green algae, it can be a mix of 10 and
even more species. They look the same until you put them under s microscope.


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 23:39
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I'll try to find some photos online for you, but I have seen diatoms come in
all kinds of colors. Some is mineral, some is algae. Don't hold your breath,
in my drug induces state caused by pain killers, I may forget, however, I'm
sure some one will remind me <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 10:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve what you means ??? The photosynthetic pigment of diatoms is brown



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 21:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish, especially fry
in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only few) so
if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they don't grow
in a well light tank.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many Hagen
products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always thought
of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel may contain
higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I have read
that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common source
of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water itself. Hence
the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any information of
possible silicates in the water.

However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another subject
line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a new
tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is the case,
the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as the
silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica would be
accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of the
diatoms.

With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient levels
down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.

Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower level
than normal.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know to sell
gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank rise from PH
6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found in high
quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in quantity, you
have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can reach 100
ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have 3 method
to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue method)
Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example you can't
use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water is
usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem in tap
water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not every
aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal with
what we put in our tank.

Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good at
diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment of the
problem I base this e-mail.

If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should have
a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not mention
silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the report.
If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or what
ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure silicates
in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on until
you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.

Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
diatoms in a marine tank:
http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.

So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to skip
the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes, as
well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
folder


It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
by too
much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen, and
not
enough light

Soutions :
Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
Whats the Redox.
Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp is
76. Just letting you know.
Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
What do you think about that?




1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
4- Plants the aquarium,
5- reduce the fish food
6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
also
change the Redox ,
7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
replace the
brown,

You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
reduce
the food and made water change, they often go with time.

Gerard



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22201 From: Jerry Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response about the oran
Read my other post about the light, keep in mind than not all the algae are
the same


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 7 mai 2007 23:24
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Gerard I have some questions about your response
about the orange stuff

OK so whats best. Light or no Light.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Generally, the color of the diatoms is algae.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 7:26 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve, since you bring the subject up, you don't put fish,
especially fry
> in a cycling tank. I do not expect a long life for those fry rise in
> ammonia, as for the Diatom, they do not need light ( at least only
few) so
> if you reduce the light it will not control them. Usually they
don't grow
> in a well light tank.
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:27
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I don't see much in the way of Hagen gravel around here, nor many
Hagen
> products. It may be different in other areas of the US. I've always
thought
> of Hagen as a Canadian brand any way. I'm sure that other gravel
may contain
> higher levels of silica as well. However, it seems to me, that I
have read
> that the silica in gravel is used fairly quickly, and a more common
source
> of continued silica in the aquarium is from the source water
itself. Hence
> the questioning of the water supplier to try and gain any
information of
> possible silicates in the water.
>
> However, finding the beginning of this discussion (under another
subject
> line--shame on the person who changed it) it appears that this is a
new
> tank, and it may be that the substrate is the source. If this is
the case,
> the condition should not last long, with regular water changes, as
the
> silica appears to leach very quickly, and removal of the silica
would be
> accomplished with regular water changes, along with the growth of
the
> diatoms.
>
> With fry in the tank, it would be difficult to keep the nutrient
levels
> down, if heavy feedings are used to ensure good growth of the fry.
>
> Lighting, however, can be controlled and should be used at a lower
level
> than normal.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 8:37 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> Steeve the silica usually came from the gravel. Hagen are well know
to sell
> gravel who release a lot of chemical in the tank I see one tank
rise from PH
> 6,8 to 7,8 in one night , with Hagen gravel inside. Silica is found
in high
> quantity, in the ground actually it came just after Oxygen in
quantity, you
> have silica in every water, usually from 1 to 30 ppm but it can
reach 100
> ppm in certain place and even 1000 ppm in brackish water, You have
3 method
> to test silica,(Gravimetric, Molybdosilicate and Heteropoly Blue
method)
> Non of them is accessible to the common aquarist, just as example
you can't
> use glass for the test, so you have to use platinum dish. RO water
is
> usually the easiest method to avoid them, when they are a problem
in tap
> water, A good element analysis of the water cost $ 200, it's not
every
> aquarist who want to spent that much, but it's the best way to deal
with
> what we put in our tank.
>
> Silica in water is a huge problem from people from Hawaii.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 19:40
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> I've not seen your picture, but Gerard has seemed to be pretty good
at
> diagnosing a problem from photos before, so going on his judgment
of the
> problem I base this e-mail.
>
> If you are using water from a public supply, their web site should
have
> a copy of a recent report of what is in the water. This may not
mention
> silicates. Silicates may be one of the items not required on the
report.
> If it is not listed, try calling your water company, department, or
what
> ever it is called in your area, and ask them if they measure
silicates
> in the water. They may be a bit evasive if they do, so press on
until
> you are satisfied that they are telling you the truth.
>
> Here is an article written by Albert J. Theil some time ago about
> diatoms in a marine tank:
> http://www.netpets.org/fish/reference/reefref/diatoms.html. I am not
> finding much, though on silicate removal without using a water
> de-ionization unit or reverse osmosis. There are such products out
> there, mostly aimed at marine keepers.
>
> So long as the diatoms do not get out of control, you might want to
skip
> the silicate removal part, and just control the other nutrients
> available by not over feeding, and frequent partial water changes,
as
> well as controlling the amount of light reaching your tank.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2007 3:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Gerard I have some questions about your
response
> about the orange stuff
>
> RE: [AquaticLife] there is a picture of the orange algea in this
> folder
>
>
> It's look to me like regular diatom ( brown algae) , they are cause
> by too
> much silicate in water, to much nutrient ,a low level of oxygen,
and
> not
> enough light
>
> Soutions :
> Whats a silicate absorbing resin and can that be put in the tank.
> What is few peroxide about increasing the oxygen level.
> Whats the Redox.
> Im still cyling. Its only 7 wks old. There is barely any ammonia in
> there, no nitrites or nitrates and the ph is 78 and the water temp
is
> 76. Just letting you know.
> Somebody said something about iron bacteria but I have tap water.
> What do you think about that?
>
>
>
>
> 1-- Remove as much as you can the algae
> 2- Reduce the nitrate, phosphate ,(water change,)
> 3- Use a silicate absorbing resin
> 4- Plants the aquarium,
> 5- reduce the fish food
> 6- you can increase the level of oxygen with few peroxide. It will
> also
> change the Redox ,
> 7-You can increase the light, but I guess the green algae will
> replace the
> brown,
>
> You really have to reduce the silica, phosphate and nitrate. Try to
> reduce
> the food and made water change, they often go with time.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22202 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Silica/ Quartz?
THANK YOU




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> It can be in suspended particles, in a colloidal or polymeric
state, as
> silicate iron, or in week acid form .
>
> I get my source for the Book "Silica in natural waters " Roy, CJ
and from
> "The Soluble Silicates, Their Properties and Uses" Vail, J.G.
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de elementalclay@...
> Envoyé : 6 mai 2007 22:36
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Silica/ Quartz?
>
> Hi Steve,
> Are you talking about silica dust? I wasn't aware there was
silica in
> water.
> Thanks,
> Roxanne
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22203 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Fish groups in Arkansas
Does anyone know of any fish groups in the Arkansas area? Any type,
koi, tropical, goldfish, etc?

Thanks for any help you can give!!

Thanks,
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22204 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
I have kept freshwater tanks since the 80s and
saltwater only since 2005. I have seahorses in 2
tanks (75gal and 30 gal) peppermint shrimp and
clownfish in a 46 gal. Liverock, macroalgaes,
ricordias, suncoral, gorgonians and ricordias in
all tanks. So these are not reef tanks with
fancy sps corals. I had lots of questions
starting out but these are some things that have
helped me.

1.instead of wet dry filter I use a sump with
refugium. The bioballs or other material =
nitrate factory, replace these with caulerpa or
cheatomorpha macroalgaes in the sump/refugium.
Leave the sump/refugium lights on 24/7 or
alternate with display tank light cycle. The
macroalgaes will consume waste products from
your livestock. As it grows,trim the
macroalgaes to remove the nitrogen and other
undesired compounds(fish poo.)

2.cycle your tank for as long as you can stand.
I let one tank cycle for 6 months.That was
probably overboard but it is a very stable tank

3. Add one livestock purchase and wait for the
tank to adjust to the new amount of waste before
adding another.

4.Keep your tank as cool as your chosen
livestock can stand. Pathogens grow better in
warmer temps. My tanks run 70-72 f.

5.Keep your salinity on the lower side if your
livestock will tolerate it. This is also to
prevent disease. I keep my tanks at 1.025.

Good luck and have fun.
bugjuice in Indiana







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22205 From: Peaches Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish groups in Arkansas
Hello Everyone:) aquaticlife

Ipartyforfun, You Wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

Does anyone know of any fish groups in the Arkansas area? Any type, koi, tropical, goldfish, etc?

Thanks for any help you can give!!

Thanks, Jennifer

Hi Jennifer:)

i am in Arkansas too but don't know of any fish groups. If you find out differently let me know:)
Hugs,
Peaches

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22206 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Fish groups in Arkansas
http://www.razorbackreef.com/nonmember/ is a Saltwater Club but may know of
some FW clubs.

http://www.kokosgoldfish.com/Clubs.html - has:

Arkansas:
Northwest Arkansas Koi and Watergarden Society,
Rebecca Barber jrbarber@...
Diana Miller ladyd2222@...

http://aquanic.org/publicat/govagen/nal/associat.htm - has:

Arkansas Bait and Ornamental Fish Growers Association
Danny Pool, President
Pool Fisheries, Inc.
1131 Brownsville Loop
Lonoke, Arkansas 72086
(501) 676-2191

Hope these help.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:48 PM
To: Aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish groups in Arkansas

Hello Everyone:) aquaticlife

Ipartyforfun, You Wrote [AquaticLife] ...

Ú

Does anyone know of any fish groups in the Arkansas area? Any type, koi,
tropical, goldfish, etc?

Thanks for any help you can give!!

Thanks, Jennifer

Hi Jennifer:)

i am in Arkansas too but don't know of any fish groups. If you find out
differently let me know:) Hugs, Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.5/793 - Release Date: 5/7/2007 2:55
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22207 From: rv4342 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Saltwater Equipment For Sale
I give up! I'm tired of replacing expensive fish & invertebrate for my
2 saltwater
tanks. I'm going to switch over to freshwater so I no longer need some
of this
saltwater gear I've purchased. All equipment has been used less than 3
months and is in like new condition. I have the original boxes &
instructions that came with all of it. If you'd like a list of the
equipment let me know. Selling everything very reasonable to clear it
out quickly.

Will
rv4342@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22208 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Equipment For Sale
I am not interested in your marine equipment, but, if I were, I'd like to know where you are located to see if you are near me.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rv4342
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 1:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Equipment For Sale

I give up! I'm tired of replacing expensive fish & invertebrate for my
2 saltwater
tanks. I'm going to switch over to freshwater so I no longer need some
of this
saltwater gear I've purchased. All equipment has been used less than 3
months and is in like new condition. I have the original boxes &
instructions that came with all of it. If you'd like a list of the
equipment let me know. Selling everything very reasonable to clear it
out quickly.

Will
rv4342@...




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22209 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22210 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals
Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals






I'll try to find some photos online for you, but I have seen diatoms
come in
all kinds of colors. Some is mineral, some is algae. Don't hold your
breath,
in my drug induces state caused by pain killers, I may forget, however,
I'm
sure some one will remind me <g>.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22211 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
Are you talking about your salt or freshwater tank?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> I have kept freshwater tanks since the 80s and
> saltwater only since 2005. I have seahorses in 2
> tanks (75gal and 30 gal) peppermint shrimp and
> clownfish in a 46 gal. Liverock, macroalgaes,
> ricordias, suncoral, gorgonians and ricordias in
> all tanks. So these are not reef tanks with
> fancy sps corals. I had lots of questions
> starting out but these are some things that have
> helped me.
>
> 1.instead of wet dry filter I use a sump with
> refugium. The bioballs or other material =
> nitrate factory, replace these with caulerpa or
> cheatomorpha macroalgaes in the sump/refugium.
> Leave the sump/refugium lights on 24/7 or
> alternate with display tank light cycle. The
> macroalgaes will consume waste products from
> your livestock. As it grows,trim the
> macroalgaes to remove the nitrogen and other
> undesired compounds(fish poo.)
>
> 2.cycle your tank for as long as you can stand.
> I let one tank cycle for 6 months.That was
> probably overboard but it is a very stable tank
>
> 3. Add one livestock purchase and wait for the
> tank to adjust to the new amount of waste before
> adding another.
>
> 4.Keep your tank as cool as your chosen
> livestock can stand. Pathogens grow better in
> warmer temps. My tanks run 70-72 f.
>
> 5.Keep your salinity on the lower side if your
> livestock will tolerate it. This is also to
> prevent disease. I keep my tanks at 1.025.
>
> Good luck and have fun.
> bugjuice in Indiana
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22212 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/8/2007
Subject: Questions about gravel/sand
A friend is giving me a jack dempsey and some tin foil barbs. I am
getting really tired of gravel, can I put sand in the tank? I may try
to get a parrpt cichlid too.
The sand I've found at the pet stores is like a white type sand.

Thanks,
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22213 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals
No, I have not yet had the time to take a look around for them. Being out of the house working 12-14 hours a day sorta puts a crimp on extracurricular activities.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 11:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals

Steve did you find any photos of algea and minerals






I'll try to find some photos online for you, but I have seen diatoms
come in
all kinds of colors. Some is mineral, some is algae. Don't hold your
breath,
in my drug induces state caused by pain killers, I may forget, however,
I'm
sure some one will remind me <g>.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22214 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
It would appear that a salt water environment is being talked about,
since Macroalgaes (Caulerpa and Chaetomorpha) are marine plants. You
may note too, that although you may choose to maintain a trace of
salt in your freshwater aquarium, having it at a salinity of 1.025 is
fully at a specific gravity of a marine aquarium even if a bit on the
low side. Being patient in allowing you tank to fully cycle before
adding fish is good advice for fresh or salt water, as is adding your
livestock slowly, and pathogens will always grow better in warmer
temperatures regardless of the environment.

While marine fish are better adapted for living at the temperatures
mentioned, this can be applied to freshwater fish as well, if those
fish come from somewhat cooler water. The problem here is that in
freshwater community tanks, fish from all different environments are
commingled. Except at breeding times, many Tetras, Barbs, Rainbows,
Danios and Livebearers prefer it in the lower 70's. When kept
cooler, these fish are not as susceptable to diseases such as Ich if
and when the temperature drops to 68o F (or lower), as not only can
many tolerate even lower temperatures but this temperature drop is
not nearly so severe as when they're kept at 78o F or so. There are
a good number of freshwater fish which do not appreciate such low
temperatures though and, when kept with those that do, need to enjoy
a happy medium. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you talking about your salt or freshwater tank?
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have kept freshwater tanks since the 80s and
> > saltwater only since 2005. I have seahorses in 2
> > tanks (75gal and 30 gal) peppermint shrimp and
> > clownfish in a 46 gal. Liverock, macroalgaes,
> > ricordias, suncoral, gorgonians and ricordias in
> > all tanks. So these are not reef tanks with
> > fancy sps corals. I had lots of questions
> > starting out but these are some things that have
> > helped me.
> >
> > 1.instead of wet dry filter I use a sump with
> > refugium. The bioballs or other material =
> > nitrate factory, replace these with caulerpa or
> > cheatomorpha macroalgaes in the sump/refugium.
> > Leave the sump/refugium lights on 24/7 or
> > alternate with display tank light cycle. The
> > macroalgaes will consume waste products from
> > your livestock. As it grows,trim the
> > macroalgaes to remove the nitrogen and other
> > undesired compounds(fish poo.)
> >
> > 2.cycle your tank for as long as you can stand.
> > I let one tank cycle for 6 months.That was
> > probably overboard but it is a very stable tank
> >
> > 3. Add one livestock purchase and wait for the
> > tank to adjust to the new amount of waste before
> > adding another.
> >
> > 4.Keep your tank as cool as your chosen
> > livestock can stand. Pathogens grow better in
> > warmer temps. My tanks run 70-72 f.
> >
> > 5.Keep your salinity on the lower side if your
> > livestock will tolerate it. This is also to
> > prevent disease. I keep my tanks at 1.025.
> >
> > Good luck and have fun.
> > bugjuice in Indiana
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22215 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis. Phone
number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@... >. Then,
there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65 miles
northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
ijohnson0819@.... There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge, between
Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@... >
and < derrik@... >, whom I believe is the president. There
are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine and
Reef Aquarium Society. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22216 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Couple of questions...
Hi All,

I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty. I have kind of
overlooked them before at the stores but last night my
niece was with me and she got two for her 10 gallon tank.
They are really pretty. Are they an easy going fish? She
has a male betta (runs in the family) an algae eater and
a catfish in there already so it's full now. I was just
wondering about the tetra traits because I would like to
have some in my tank.

I was finally able to get my big tank. It's a 56 gallon
cube. I know it cuts down on air surface but it fits the
only space I had available for it. I really like it. I got
a HOB Penguin double filter for it but will have to return
that for a UGF type filter. Again because of the space I
have for it. How do you do a bio-wheel with a UGF? Do you
use one? My friend has had his tank for years and never had
one. He has only had old age losses also, for the most part.

In Lenny's blog one article says to start the cycle with an
inexpensive fish. That's what the girl at the store told me
also. I have chose a female betta. Her water was so nasty
I didn't hink she had long to go. Right now she is in a small
tank by herself until I get the big one going.

One last question, for now. LOL What else can I try to feed
my dwarf puffer? I have tried frozen tubiflex worms, dried
bloodworms, betta pellets, live bearer flakes and tropical
flakes. This is apparently one picky fish. He eats the tubi-
flex' somewhat but spits a little out with each bite. I sure
like watching him though.

Ok, back to work now. Thanks for the help, in advance!

Traci



>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22217 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Question: Gravel vs. Sand
I am setting up a new tank with a Jack Dempsey, tin foil barbs and a
parrot cichlid. What kind of substrate can I use and would be best? I
am getting tired of the looks of gravel and thought about using sand.
Will this be okay and any particular type with the fish?

Also, I have a pleco in the tank, will he be okay with sand?

Thanks,
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22218 From: hank voss Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
=============================
Hi :
fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a Latin
name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
Regards Hank





> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22219 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
It's a little smaller than the silver dollar fish but
the same kind of flat, thin body. They are whitish in
color with different tints to them. Of the two my niece
got, one had a pink tint and one had a blue tint. There
was also a green one. The tinting is very subtle. I am
at work now so that's the best I can do to describe them.
I am going to the store tonight so I'll see if I can get
a scientific name. Thanks!



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
> swatek@...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
>> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
> ============================Hi :
> fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a Latin
> name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
> like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22220 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
If they are the same “fruit tetras” that a couple of LFS’s near me sell then
they are white skirt tetras that have been colored.





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...



It's a little smaller than the silver dollar fish but
the same kind of flat, thin body. They are whitish in
color with different tints to them. Of the two my niece
got, one had a pink tint and one had a blue tint. There
was also a green one. The tinting is very subtle. I am
at work now so that's the best I can do to describe them.
I am going to the store tonight so I'll see if I can get
a scientific name. Thanks!

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
> swatek@...> wrote:
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
>> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
> ============================Hi :
> fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a Latin
> name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
> like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22221 From: hank voss Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> It's a little smaller than the silver dollar fish but
> the same kind of flat, thin body. They are whitish in
> color with different tints to them. Of the two my niece
> got, one had a pink tint and one had a blue tint. There
> was also a green one. The tinting is very subtle. I am
> at work now so that's the best I can do to describe them.
> I am going to the store tonight so I'll see if I can get
> a scientific name. Thanks!
> ======================
Traci:
Silver dollars can get to 6-7 in.The color description you gave
it sounds like yiu have the color norph ofGymnocorym ternetzi (Black
tetra) it is a white varient which is usually dyed different colors
which fade after a time.If it is this fish they are hardy but can be
prone to "ich".They also can be a little testy when they get a little
larger(1/2 dollar size)
PS Most stores will not know the latin name.
Regards Hank
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
> > swatek@> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
> >> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
> > ============================Hi :
> > fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a
Latin
> > name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
> > like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
> > Regards Hank
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22222 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Yeah, I just searched the net and that's what they are.
Too bad cause I really did like them. They looked natural
to me, but that's not saying much. When I was in AZ last
week I saw some tattooed fish and didn't know that they
were until my sister pointed it out to me. Live and learn,
I reckon. Thanks for the help. You too, Hank.

Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> If they are the same “fruit tetras” that a couple of LFS’s near me sell then
> they are white skirt tetras that have been colored.
>
>
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:58 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...
>
>
>
> It's a little smaller than the silver dollar fish but
> the same kind of flat, thin body. They are whitish in
> color with different tints to them. Of the two my niece
> got, one had a pink tint and one had a blue tint. There
> was also a green one. The tinting is very subtle. I am
> at work now so that's the best I can do to describe them.
> I am going to the store tonight so I'll see if I can get
> a scientific name. Thanks!
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
>> swatek@...> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
>>> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
>> ============================Hi :
>> fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a Latin
>> name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
>> like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
>> Regards Hank
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22223 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Are fruit tetras dyed? I know a lot of other fish called "fruit-this" or
"fruit-that" are actually dyed fish. I've never heard of a fruit tetra nor
is it listed on any reputable website.

http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...

Hi All,

I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think of the fruit
tetras? They are so pretty. I have kind of overlooked them before at the
stores but last night my niece was with me and she got two for her 10 gallon
tank.
They are really pretty. Are they an easy going fish? She has a male betta
(runs in the family) an algae eater and a catfish in there already so it's
full now. I was just wondering about the tetra traits because I would like
to have some in my tank.

I was finally able to get my big tank. It's a 56 gallon cube. I know it cuts
down on air surface but it fits the only space I had available for it. I
really like it. I got a HOB Penguin double filter for it but will have to
return that for a UGF type filter. Again because of the space I have for it.
How do you do a bio-wheel with a UGF? Do you use one? My friend has had his
tank for years and never had one. He has only had old age losses also, for
the most part.

In Lenny's blog one article says to start the cycle with an inexpensive
fish. That's what the girl at the store told me also. I have chose a female
betta. Her water was so nasty I didn't hink she had long to go. Right now
she is in a small tank by herself until I get the big one going.

One last question, for now. LOL What else can I try to feed my dwarf puffer?
I have tried frozen tubiflex worms, dried bloodworms, betta pellets, live
bearer flakes and tropical flakes. This is apparently one picky fish. He
eats the tubi- flex' somewhat but spits a little out with each bite. I sure
like watching him though.

Ok, back to work now. Thanks for the help, in advance!

Traci

>< <>< <>< <>< <><






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22224 From: Rich Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
I think fruit tetras are fish that have been dyed. they look pretty
but it is not good for them.
Rich




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
> of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty. I have kind of
> overlooked them before at the stores but last night my
> niece was with me and she got two for her 10 gallon tank.
> They are really pretty. Are they an easy going fish? She
> has a male betta (runs in the family) an algae eater and
> a catfish in there already so it's full now. I was just
> wondering about the tetra traits because I would like to
> have some in my tank.
>
> I was finally able to get my big tank. It's a 56 gallon
> cube. I know it cuts down on air surface but it fits the
> only space I had available for it. I really like it. I got
> a HOB Penguin double filter for it but will have to return
> that for a UGF type filter. Again because of the space I
> have for it. How do you do a bio-wheel with a UGF? Do you
> use one? My friend has had his tank for years and never had
> one. He has only had old age losses also, for the most part.
>
> In Lenny's blog one article says to start the cycle with an
> inexpensive fish. That's what the girl at the store told me
> also. I have chose a female betta. Her water was so nasty
> I didn't hink she had long to go. Right now she is in a small
> tank by herself until I get the big one going.
>
> One last question, for now. LOL What else can I try to feed
> my dwarf puffer? I have tried frozen tubiflex worms, dried
> bloodworms, betta pellets, live bearer flakes and tropical
> flakes. This is apparently one picky fish. He eats the tubi-
> flex' somewhat but spits a little out with each bite. I sure
> like watching him though.
>
> Ok, back to work now. Thanks for the help, in advance!
>
> Traci
>
>
>
> >< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22225 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
They are dyed. Off my list of fish I want now.
Makes you wonder how people come up with this
stuff. Anything to make a buck, I guess...

Traci




<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Are fruit tetras dyed? I know a lot of other fish called "fruit-this" or
> "fruit-that" are actually dyed fish. I've never heard of a fruit tetra nor
> is it listed on any reputable website.
>
> http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think of the fruit
> tetras? They are so pretty. I have kind of overlooked them before at the
> stores but last night my niece was with me and she got two for her 10 gallon
> tank.
> They are really pretty. Are they an easy going fish? She has a male betta
> (runs in the family) an algae eater and a catfish in there already so it's
> full now. I was just wondering about the tetra traits because I would like
> to have some in my tank.
>
> I was finally able to get my big tank. It's a 56 gallon cube. I know it cuts
> down on air surface but it fits the only space I had available for it. I
> really like it. I got a HOB Penguin double filter for it but will have to
> return that for a UGF type filter. Again because of the space I have for it.
> How do you do a bio-wheel with a UGF? Do you use one? My friend has had his
> tank for years and never had one. He has only had old age losses also, for
> the most part.
>
> In Lenny's blog one article says to start the cycle with an inexpensive
> fish. That's what the girl at the store told me also. I have chose a female
> betta. Her water was so nasty I didn't hink she had long to go. Right now
> she is in a small tank by herself until I get the big one going.
>
> One last question, for now. LOL What else can I try to feed my dwarf puffer?
> I have tried frozen tubiflex worms, dried bloodworms, betta pellets, live
> bearer flakes and tropical flakes. This is apparently one picky fish. He
> eats the tubi- flex' somewhat but spits a little out with each bite. I sure
> like watching him though.
>
> Ok, back to work now. Thanks for the help, in advance!
>
> Traci
>
>>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
> PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
> PM
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22226 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
I made the mistake of buying a trio of dyed fish (before I knew that fish were actually dyed) and infected my FW tank with Ich. 2 died plus a few of my own fish. Thankfully I was able to treat and beat the ich, even managed to save 1 of the dyed trio, he is still alive today and (thankfully) healthy.

Now I know that fish can actually be dyed and what a horrible practice it is; I make it a point to boycott any LFS that even sells them.

----- Original Message -----
From: Traci Swatek-Rice
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 2:07 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...


They are dyed. Off my list of fish I want now.
Makes you wonder how people come up with this
stuff. Anything to make a buck, I guess...

Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

> Are fruit tetras dyed? I know a lot of other fish called "fruit-this" or
> "fruit-that" are actually dyed fish. I've never heard of a fruit tetra nor
> is it listed on any reputable website.
>
> http://www.deathbydyeing.org/colormedead.htm
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Traci Swatek-Rice
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 12:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think of the fruit
> tetras? They are so pretty. I have kind of overlooked them before at the
> stores but last night my niece was with me and she got two for her 10 gallon
> tank.
> They are really pretty. Are they an easy going fish? She has a male betta
> (runs in the family) an algae eater and a catfish in there already so it's
> full now. I was just wondering about the tetra traits because I would like
> to have some in my tank.
>
> I was finally able to get my big tank. It's a 56 gallon cube. I know it cuts
> down on air surface but it fits the only space I had available for it. I
> really like it. I got a HOB Penguin double filter for it but will have to
> return that for a UGF type filter. Again because of the space I have for it.
> How do you do a bio-wheel with a UGF? Do you use one? My friend has had his
> tank for years and never had one. He has only had old age losses also, for
> the most part.
>
> In Lenny's blog one article says to start the cycle with an inexpensive
> fish. That's what the girl at the store told me also. I have chose a female
> betta. Her water was so nasty I didn't hink she had long to go. Right now
> she is in a small tank by herself until I get the big one going.
>
> One last question, for now. LOL What else can I try to feed my dwarf puffer?
> I have tried frozen tubiflex worms, dried bloodworms, betta pellets, live
> bearer flakes and tropical flakes. This is apparently one picky fish. He
> eats the tubi- flex' somewhat but spits a little out with each bite. I sure
> like watching him though.
>
> Ok, back to work now. Thanks for the help, in advance!
>
> Traci
>
>>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
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> PM
>
>
>
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> PM
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22227 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
I don't boycott the stores. They purchasers (customers) should be
boycotted.

The same thing could be said about fancy goldfish keepers (like me). Now I
don't go for all of the extravagant things that goldfish breeders are coming
up with but I do keep a couple of fancy fantails in a 65G tank.

The in-breeding and selective breeding that is done to create the
bubble-eyes, pom-poms, four-eyes, pearl scales, etc., which seems to also
result in many other genetic defects and internal issues could be deemed
just as "horrible" as dying and tattooing fish... yet these genetically bred
mutations are sold for a 100 times more in some cases, compared to "normal"
goldfish.

If people would quit buying these "altered" fish, the breeders and sellers
would quit selling them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sean C. Figueroa
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 7:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...

I made the mistake of buying a trio of dyed fish (before I knew that fish
were actually dyed) and infected my FW tank with Ich. 2 died plus a few of
my own fish. Thankfully I was able to treat and beat the ich, even managed
to save 1 of the dyed trio, he is still alive today and (thankfully)
healthy.

Now I know that fish can actually be dyed and what a horrible practice it
is; I make it a point to boycott any LFS that even sells them.

----- Original Message -----
From: Traci Swatek-Rice
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 2:07 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Couple of questions...

They are dyed. Off my list of fish I want now.
Makes you wonder how people come up with this stuff. Anything to make a
buck, I guess...

Traci

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22228 From: tipzandtrikz Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Background, Background, Background For profesional Photography
Do you remember the old Saturday Night Live skit where Steve Martin
and Bill Murray are standing there looking at something, which is
off-camera, and they keep repeating "What the hell is that?". Have you
ever looked at someone else's photographs, or even, god forbid, one of
your own, and asked "What the hell is that?". There have been more
than few occasions where I have taken, what I thought was an
absolutely beautiful picture only to sit down and look at it later,
then see something in the background that causes me to say 'What the
hell is that?'. As a photographer this is not what I want to have happen.

Just follow this link: http://tipsphotography.blogspot.com for more
information.

Thank's for visit........
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22229 From: vanina120460 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: stains on aquarium
hi!can someone please help me with a little problem i am having?i am
always getting a little water running from underneath the rim on the
top of my tank,it then gets white and its like a calcium deposit and
it runs down along the tank.its so hard to clean!and it comes back
everytime.i dont have too much water in my tank either that it runs
over?how cam i stop this problem?or is this something we all put up
with?thanks for your help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22230 From: Laurie Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Used Tank
We just bought a used 55 gallon tank from some friends of ours tonight.
My question is... Some of the glass is a little dirty, how do you clean
it? I haven't had this happen to any of my tanks. Thanks in advance for
your advice.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22231 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: stains on aquarium
The top plastic frame on your aquarium is not sealed well to the top of the
glass in that section and condensation from your tank forms in the gap and
then drips down. It's just a spot that someone missed in the building of
your tank. If you ever have to break down the tank in the future, you can
re-silicone that section but I wouldn't do it while you have fish in the
tank. Just live with the inconvenience for now. You can use plain white
vinegar to take the white hard water streaks off.

You can also use vinegar on any other hard water deposits on your tank, HOB
filter waterfall, etc. Don't spill it into your tank but just make a paper
towel or rag damp with the vinegar and wipe it off. It won't harm your
water or fish like cleaning solutions will.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of vanina120460
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] stains on aquarium

hi!can someone please help me with a little problem i am having?i am always
getting a little water running from underneath the rim on the top of my
tank,it then gets white and its like a calcium deposit and it runs down
along the tank.its so hard to clean!and it comes back everytime.i dont have
too much water in my tank either that it runs over?how cam i stop this
problem?or is this something we all put up with?thanks for your help!

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22232 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
If it's hard water build up, use plain white vinegar. I would use that
first. Then if the glass is scratched and stained inside the scratches, you
can use a bleach solution (1/20th), then rinse, rinse, rinse. Lastly, you
can also used hydrogen peroxide which will also disinfect everything and is
not dangerous to your tank like the bleach solution would be. HP is
actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 8:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Used Tank

We just bought a used 55 gallon tank from some friends of ours tonight.
My question is... Some of the glass is a little dirty, how do you clean it?
I haven't had this happen to any of my tanks. Thanks in advance for your
advice.

Laurie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22233 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
is it a glass tank? If so, scrape the glass clean with razor blade type scrapor. Also, if you need abrasive cleaning power, use a new green nylon(?) dish scrubber with salt. Then clean glass with vinegar and rinse well. Sometimes I soak in bleach water after the vinegar cleansing. Then rinse and set in sunlight for a couple days or just rinse very well. Sunlight supposedly gets the chlorine out. After all that you should not have any lingering fish disease from prior inhabitants. If acrylic, don't use these methods.I don't know about acrylic tanks.

Laurie <lilpeach911@...> wrote:
We just bought a used 55 gallon tank from some friends of ours tonight.
My question is... Some of the glass is a little dirty, how do you clean
it? I haven't had this happen to any of my tanks. Thanks in advance for
your advice.

Laurie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22234 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: wet behind the ears marine aquarist
sorry, saltwater

memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote: Are you talking about your salt or freshwater tank?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> I have kept freshwater tanks since the 80s and
> saltwater only since 2005. I have seahorses in 2
> tanks (75gal and 30 gal) peppermint shrimp and
> clownfish in a 46 gal. Liverock, macroalgaes,
> ricordias, suncoral, gorgonians and ricordias in
> all tanks. So these are not reef tanks with
> fancy sps corals. I had lots of questions
> starting out but these are some things that have
> helped me.
>
> 1.instead of wet dry filter I use a sump with
> refugium. The bioballs or other material =
> nitrate factory, replace these with caulerpa or
> cheatomorpha macroalgaes in the sump/refugium.
> Leave the sump/refugium lights on 24/7 or
> alternate with display tank light cycle. The
> macroalgaes will consume waste products from
> your livestock. As it grows,trim the
> macroalgaes to remove the nitrogen and other
> undesired compounds(fish poo.)
>
> 2.cycle your tank for as long as you can stand.
> I let one tank cycle for 6 months.That was
> probably overboard but it is a very stable tank
>
> 3. Add one livestock purchase and wait for the
> tank to adjust to the new amount of waste before
> adding another.
>
> 4.Keep your tank as cool as your chosen
> livestock can stand. Pathogens grow better in
> warmer temps. My tanks run 70-72 f.
>
> 5.Keep your salinity on the lower side if your
> livestock will tolerate it. This is also to
> prevent disease. I keep my tanks at 1.025.
>
> Good luck and have fun.
> bugjuice in Indiana
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22235 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
THANK YOU RAYMOND



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
Phone
> number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@... >. Then,
> there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65 miles
> northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
> ijohnson0819@... There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
between
> Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@... >
> and < derrik@... >, whom I believe is the president. There
> are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
and
> Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22236 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Raymond
Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
Phone
> number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@... >. Then,
> there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65 miles
> northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
> ijohnson0819@... There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
between
> Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@... >
> and < derrik@... >, whom I believe is the president. There
> are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
and
> Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22237 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
They are the "white tetras" ( actually a black tetra bred for not
havong balck in them) and then the inject die in too them. Many of
the fish that get this treatment do not live long and those that do
live will loose their "fruit colors" as the live.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
> swatek@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
> > of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
> =============================
> Hi :
> fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a
Latin
> name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
> like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
> > >< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22238 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that shoots up
water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be good
but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
oxygen for the fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22239 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: real plants in a ten gallon
I'm trying to build my tank up again and was thinking of putting
mostly real plants in instead of plastic or silk. I don't have a very
good track record when it comes to keeping real plants alive. They
usually die within a few months and I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.
One of the things I'm not sure about is do I cyphon around the plants
and leave the gravel alone surounding them or do you pull them up
every time you clean. Or should I just put them in a kinda U shape
around the outside of the tank and just cyphon the middle of the tank.
I'm really hoping this time I can keep a healthy tank going for more
then 6 months this time.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22240 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
The air bubbles do not add any oxygen to the tank but rather will
help to circulate the water so that the oxygen can be replenshed and
the darbon dioxide can be given off and there are some other
exchanges tqking place at the surface. If you have a good filter
that when new says that it will filter a tank twice as large as you
then you should not have any problems with owygen in the tank. If
you have a filter that says that it is good for a tank of yours then
that means that it is moving ( under idea conditions ) the amount of
water (and that is not with the filter media in it either and the
tank is full to the brim). When you add filter media it will slow
the flow down and when the water evaproates (below the top of the
tank) it will have to work harder and br slower.And when the filter
medium gets dirty it will slow the flow even more.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that
you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too
much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22241 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a ten gallon
Try healthy true aquatic plants like Jave fern or Java moss, these
plants will grow in low light or higher kight. Many LFS sell plants
that ate not true aquatic and will there fore die withing a few weeks
or months. If they thought that people would buy cactus for thier
aquariums I think that they would try.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm trying to build my tank up again and was thinking of putting
> mostly real plants in instead of plastic or silk. I don't have a very
> good track record when it comes to keeping real plants alive. They
> usually die within a few months and I'm not sure what I'm doing
wrong.
> One of the things I'm not sure about is do I cyphon around the plants
> and leave the gravel alone surounding them or do you pull them up
> every time you clean. Or should I just put them in a kinda U shape
> around the outside of the tank and just cyphon the middle of the
tank.
> I'm really hoping this time I can keep a healthy tank going for more
> then 6 months this time.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22242 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: light timers
Ok so My first timer just broke.. I realized it when it never shut off last
night... is this normal??? it isn't even a year old, I don't want to invest in
another one if it will only last a year??? Shannon



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22243 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
I think you might have gotten a cheap timer or a defective timer. They are
pretty simple devices and should not break if they are half-way decent.
Make sure it is rated for the amount of wattage you are plugging into it as
well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of SaraRamirezRocks@...
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 12:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] light timers

Ok so My first timer just broke.. I realized it when it never shut off last
night... is this normal??? it isn't even a year old, I don't want to invest
in another one if it will only last a year??? Shannon

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/794 - Release Date: 5/8/2007 2:23
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22244 From: SaraRamirezRocks@aol.com Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
well it was 25 bucks so I don't think it was too cheap..... its just on my
regular tanks so its not like pulling a HUGE amount of wattage... but if I
decide to get another one ill def keep that in mind.. Shannon

I think you might have gotten a cheap timer or a defective timer. They are
pretty simple devices and should not break if they are half-way decent.
Make sure it is rated for the amount of wattage you are plugging into it as
well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22245 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/9/2007
Subject: Re: light timers
WOW... $25.00 bucks! Nope, that's not a cheap one. It must have been
defective. I'd bring that sucker back and make them exchange it. I've used
the $5.00 ones longer than that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of SaraRamirezRocks@...
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 12:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] light timers


well it was 25 bucks so I don't think it was too cheap..... its just on my
regular tanks so its not like pulling a HUGE amount of wattage... but if I
decide to get another one ill def keep that in mind.. Shannon

I think you might have gotten a cheap timer or a defective timer. They are
pretty simple devices and should not break if they are half-way decent.
Make sure it is rated for the amount of wattage you are plugging into it as
well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22246 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Mem, Wow, that is strange!!! I just noticed that none of the email
addresses I gave you are complete (yes, I sent complete email
addresses for all these clubs). It appears that either the moderator
deleted that part or possibly Yahoo automatically deletes it just as
I believe it deletes that portion of our emails when we post. I see
they're also missing in my Group site (archive) post, message #22215,
not only in the email. I will somehow try to get this info to you,
even if off-line. Perhaps if I can come up with you email address, I
will be able to do this, but it probably won't do any good for you to
send that to me via the Group site since it will be erased. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Raymond
> Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
> Phone
> > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
> > there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
miles
> > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
> > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> > Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
> between
> > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ >
> > and < derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There
> > are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
> and
> > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22247 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Okay, In re-checking, I find I'm wrong about your email not
appearing at the top of your post. I just wasn't sure and didn't
want to lose what I already typed, just to go back and check that
out. I'll send you the needed info off line. It sure does not
benefit you or the group by these emails being partially hidden, as
they were, nor is this practice protecting anybody. As information
essential to the topic at hand, you would think that the moderator
would allow (or reconstruct, if possible) this info to go through.
Later, Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Raymond
> Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
> Phone
> > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
> > there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
miles
> > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
> > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> > Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
> between
> > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ >
> > and < derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There
> > are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
> and
> > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22248 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
So I can still use the 10 gallon that I had cleaned with bleach before
I knoew you weren't supposed to clean with bleach??? That would be
awsome! It's been outside in the sun for several weeks now (maybe even
months), so it needs a new cleaning, but it would be awsome to be able
to use it!

Karen




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> is it a glass tank? If so, scrape the glass clean with razor blade
type scrapor. Also, if you need abrasive cleaning power, use a new
green nylon(?) dish scrubber with salt. Then clean glass with vinegar
and rinse well. Sometimes I soak in bleach water after the vinegar
cleansing. Then rinse and set in sunlight for a couple days or just
rinse very well. Sunlight supposedly gets the chlorine out. After all
that you should not have any lingering fish disease from prior
inhabitants. If acrylic, don't use these methods.I don't know about
acrylic tanks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22249 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.



. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22250 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
I forgot , aside of algae and hypoxia, it's a good help also to remove mold
on egg, also use as parasiticide, but's it's unapproved (FDA) for treat
food fish . All that to say it's use in many case inside tank with fish


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 09:51
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.



. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com










Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22251 From: Laurie Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Used tank cleaning info
Thanks all that responded on how to clean my tank. It's not really bad
at all so I'm sure it'll be sparkling before I know it.... Yes, I'm
sure that all it is was hard water stains... nothing more than that.

Thanks again,
Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22252 From: Jessica Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: What else to put in my tank?
I have a 20 gallon feeder tank currently with some rosy reds. I would
like to have something more perminant in there that is pretty to look
at. It sits in my dining room and I don't want only feeders in
there. Are there any FW fish that that I could have that won't eat
the feeders? The feeders are pretty big though. Thanks!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22253 From: Laurie Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
We have a fairly new tank that we have been cycling for a few weeks
now. But the Nitrates and Nitrites are still very high. We've been
doing 25% water changes for the last 4 nights and still not any better.
They also was told to use the Nitra-Zorb and we did that... no better..
We are beside ourselves and don't know what else to do. We are open for
more suggestions. We've done everything that we have been told to do
and it doesn't seem to help.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22254 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: cloudy water
In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
tank look.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22255 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Mine did this a while back and I was advised that it is a cycling thing and to leave it alone and it would clear on it's own......I did....it did.......not sure if this will work with your's, though.


----- Original Message ----
From: friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 7:34:38 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] cloudy water

In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
tank look.




__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22256 From: cmcferin Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color of
"cloudy" is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a
bacterial bloom (sometimes caused by changing your filter or other
additives that could cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological
filter). Green is an algae bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients
in the water (overfeeding is a good example of this). I do not think
your tank is overstocked or its the fault of the plants. (Well I
should say the overstocked part with a grain of salt because I do not
know how big the clown loach or red-tailed shark are).

If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it should
take care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your
Topfin?

If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other day
and reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day
and see if that helps).

My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer for
my plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.

Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you start
seeing the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as
the water parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just
have to deal with the cloudy water.

Hope that helps.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
> problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
> down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
> looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
> yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
> loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
> when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
> Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
> and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
> would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
> other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
> thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
> loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
> working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
> tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
> tank look.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22257 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
Just rinse it out several times until you can't smell any bleach residue.
Then fill it with water and add several ounces of dechlor product and let it
sit for 8 hours. Then rinse it again. It should be fine then. When
cleaning with bleach solution, it's best not to let the bleach solution stay
in the tank too long where it might leech under the silicone. If you use
bleach solution, just wipe it down real good, then rinse, rinse, rinse. I
prefer to use Hydrogen Peroxide as a disinfectant since it becomes inert
much easier and even if some remains in the tank, it's not harmful to your
fish. HP is H2O2 (an extra Oxygen molecule) which is what bubbles out and
basically becomes H2O (water).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 7:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Used Tank

So I can still use the 10 gallon that I had cleaned with bleach before I
knoew you weren't supposed to clean with bleach??? That would be awsome!
It's been outside in the sun for several weeks now (maybe even months), so
it needs a new cleaning, but it would be awsome to be able to use it!

Karen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> is it a glass tank? If so, scrape the glass clean with razor blade
type scrapor. Also, if you need abrasive cleaning power, use a new green
nylon(?) dish scrubber with salt. Then clean glass with vinegar and rinse
well. Sometimes I soak in bleach water after the vinegar cleansing. Then
rinse and set in sunlight for a couple days or just rinse very well.
Sunlight supposedly gets the chlorine out. After all that you should not
have any lingering fish disease from prior inhabitants. If acrylic, don't
use these methods.I don't know about acrylic tanks.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22258 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
It's to keep spam-bots from crawling through the webpages finding email
addresses. Just replace the "@" with "-at-", like... address-at-gmail.com
and most folks know to replace the "-at-" with @. Sometimes you will also
see address(at)gmail.com.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS

Okay, In re-checking, I find I'm wrong about your email not appearing at the
top of your post. I just wasn't sure and didn't want to lose what I already
typed, just to go back and check that out. I'll send you the needed info off
line. It sure does not benefit you or the group by these emails being
partially hidden, as they were, nor is this practice protecting anybody. As
information essential to the topic at hand, you would think that the
moderator would allow (or reconstruct, if possible) this info to go through.

Later, Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Raymond
> Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
> Phone
> > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then, there's
> > the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
miles
> > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email <
> > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium Society in
> > Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
> between
> > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ > and <
> > derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There are also several
> > salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
> and
> > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
> > <dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22259 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey
baster to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day,
the algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to
use spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I
can tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22260 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
ok my email address is dctn_2005 at yahoo



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Mem, Wow, that is strange!!! I just noticed that none of the
email
> addresses I gave you are complete (yes, I sent complete email
> addresses for all these clubs). It appears that either the
moderator
> deleted that part or possibly Yahoo automatically deletes it just
as
> I believe it deletes that portion of our emails when we post. I
see
> they're also missing in my Group site (archive) post, message
#22215,
> not only in the email. I will somehow try to get this info to
you,
> even if off-line. Perhaps if I can come up with you email
address, I
> will be able to do this, but it probably won't do any good for you
to
> send that to me via the Group site since it will be erased. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Raymond
> > Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in
Memphis.
> > Phone
> > > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
> > > there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
> miles
> > > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553,
email <
> > > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> > > Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak
Ridge,
> > between
> > > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ >
> > > and < derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There
> > > are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee
Marine
> > and
> > > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22261 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Its dctn_2005 at yahoo



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Okay, In re-checking, I find I'm wrong about your email not
> appearing at the top of your post. I just wasn't sure and didn't
> want to lose what I already typed, just to go back and check that
> out. I'll send you the needed info off line. It sure does not
> benefit you or the group by these emails being partially hidden,
as
> they were, nor is this practice protecting anybody. As
information
> essential to the topic at hand, you would think that the moderator
> would allow (or reconstruct, if possible) this info to go
through.
> Later, Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Raymond
> > Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in
Memphis.
> > Phone
> > > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
> > > there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
> miles
> > > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553,
email <
> > > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> > > Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak
Ridge,
> > between
> > > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ >
> > > and < derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There
> > > are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee
Marine
> > and
> > > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22262 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: What else to put in my tank?
Are these feeders that you raise yourself or do you buy them? As you
probably know, feeders are not always the healthiest fish so if you buy
them, I would keep it solely as a feeder tank so you don't get any permanent
fish sick. If you raise them yourself so you know they are healthy, then
the next question is whether this is a heated tank or cool/cold water tank?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 9:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What else to put in my tank?

I have a 20 gallon feeder tank currently with some rosy reds. I would like
to have something more perminant in there that is pretty to look at. It sits
in my dining room and I don't want only feeders in there. Are there any FW
fish that that I could have that won't eat the feeders? The feeders are
pretty big though. Thanks!!!

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22263 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
If you are fishless cycling this tank, using ammonia, then whoever told you
to add nitra-zorb should be hung in the public square... OK.. maybe that's a
little harsh. LOL But if you are fishless cycling, you should be following
the directions on the fishless cycle site.

If you are cycling with fish, you may have started off with too many fish
and you need to do more frequent PWC's. What are your test results for
ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and any others you may have?

Let us know which way you are cycling your tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 9:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] High Nitrites/ Nitrates

We have a fairly new tank that we have been cycling for a few weeks now. But
the Nitrates and Nitrites are still very high. We've been doing 25% water
changes for the last 4 nights and still not any better.
They also was told to use the Nitra-Zorb and we did that... no better..
We are beside ourselves and don't know what else to do. We are open for more
suggestions. We've done everything that we have been told to do and it
doesn't seem to help.

Thanks in advance for your help.
Laurie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to 18". The
clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more so they
need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are very
aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking fish.

Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish as the
55G is not big enough.

What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long as the fish
grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their body mass
by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not just "inches" long
that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.

You should probably double your filtration if you are going to have big or
dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near enough
filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks. So on a
55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.

The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank with fish
that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cmcferin
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color of "cloudy"
is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial bloom
(sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that could
cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is an algae
bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water (overfeeding is a
good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or its the
fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with a grain of
salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed shark are).


If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it should take
care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your Topfin?

If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other day and
reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day and see if
that helps).

My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer for my
plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.

Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you start seeing
the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the water
parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have to deal
with the cloudy water.

Hope that helps.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
> problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
> down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
> looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
> yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
> loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
> when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
> Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
> and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
> would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
> other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
> thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
> loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
> working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
> tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
> tank look.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22265 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense, to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey
baster to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day,
the algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to
use spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I
can tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22266 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Clown loach of 20" ???? where you get this info in the Guiness book, they grow very slow, I Have one for 10 years and it reach only 8" in a 125 gal. I have I think all the variety of Botia here,usally they do fine in group of 2. I have at one time a 22" pleco, a wild import capture fish, Pleco will never reach 18" in a tank,. My grandma was catching rainbow trout at 5 pounds, but in the same lake it was rare than someone catch it over 2 pounds, you have exceptional fish who get very big, but not all of them,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to 18". The
clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more so they
need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are very
aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking fish.

Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish as the
55G is not big enough.

What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long as the fish
grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their body mass
by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not just "inches" long
that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.

You should probably double your filtration if you are going to have big or
dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near enough
filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks. So on a
55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.

The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank with fish
that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cmcferin
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color of "cloudy"
is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial bloom
(sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that could
cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is an algae
bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water (overfeeding is a
good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or its the
fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with a grain of
salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed shark are).


If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it should take
care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your Topfin?

If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other day and
reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day and see if
that helps).

My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer for my
plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.

Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you start seeing
the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the water
parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have to deal
with the cloudy water.

Hope that helps.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
> problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
> down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
> looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
> yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
> loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
> when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
> Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
> and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
> would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
> other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
> thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
> loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
> working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
> tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
> tank look.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22267 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com which has been on the net since 1994, with copies of
original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and bulletin boards... the
early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22268 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
It looks brown but could be green to. Both the clown and shark are
approx. 2 inches. I use filter inserts. There isn't anything else
that would hold bacteria in the filter. I use fertilizer in my tank
but is was cloudy before I used it.

--- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cmcferin" <cmcferin@...> wrote:
>
> I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color of
> "cloudy" is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a
> bacterial bloom (sometimes caused by changing your filter or other
> additives that could cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological
> filter). Green is an algae bloom, mostly caused by too much
nutrients
> in the water (overfeeding is a good example of this). I do not
think
> your tank is overstocked or its the fault of the plants. (Well I
> should say the overstocked part with a grain of salt because I do
not
> know how big the clown loach or red-tailed shark are).
>
> If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it
should
> take care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in
your
> Topfin?
>
> If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other day
> and reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day
> and see if that helps).
>
> My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer
for
> my plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic
difference.
>
> Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you
start
> seeing the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long
as
> the water parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you
just
> have to deal with the cloudy water.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had
this
> > problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned
waaaaay
> > down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the
side
> > looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35%
pwc
> > yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> > overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1
clown
> > loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be
rehomed
> > when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few
babies.
> > Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more
stocked
> > and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank
hoping it
> > would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> > changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> > carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at
every
> > other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant
pruning,
> > thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at
a
> > loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter
not
> > working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont
of
> > tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the
planted
> > tank look.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22269 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
I use the pleco for algae control and the clown loach for snail
control. Nothing I found would control these problems in any other
(smaller) tank is why I went to them. All my fish are roughly the
same size at the moment being between 2 to 2 1/2 inches.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to
18". The
> clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more
so they
> need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are
very
> aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking
fish.
>
> Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
> overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish
as the
> 55G is not big enough.
>
> What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long
as the fish
> grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their
body mass
> by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not
just "inches" long
> that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.
>
> You should probably double your filtration if you are going to
have big or
> dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near
enough
> filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks.
So on a
> 55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.
>
> The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank
with fish
> that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body
fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cmcferin
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water
>
> I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color
of "cloudy"
> is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial
bloom
> (sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that
could
> cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is
an algae
> bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water
(overfeeding is a
> good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or
its the
> fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with
a grain of
> salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed
shark are).
>
>
> If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it
should take
> care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your
Topfin?
>
> If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other
day and
> reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day
and see if
> that helps).
>
> My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer
for my
> plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.
>
> Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you
start seeing
> the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the
water
> parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have
to deal
> with the cloudy water.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had
this
> > problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned
waaaaay
> > down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the
side
> > looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35%
pwc
> > yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> > overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1
clown
> > loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be
rehomed
> > when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few
babies.
> > Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more
stocked
> > and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank
hoping it
> > would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> > changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> > carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at
every
> > other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant
pruning,
> > thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at
a
> > loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter
not
> > working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont
of
> > tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the
planted
> > tank look.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date:
5/9/2007 3:07
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22270 From: chrisrnuttall Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with fish, i
think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the tank
with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on the
light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away for
three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or nitrazorb -
nothing.

The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters will
start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates will
rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and creates
nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only nitrate
present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a small
number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to keep
up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two, then
do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if you
see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.

If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then all
you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony needs
to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.

Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22271 From: chrisrnuttall Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: real plants in a ten gallon
i used to kill every plant i bought, but now i have a fair amount of
success.....


only buy plant rated as easy to grow

feed them every week with liquid plant food (for aquariums!)

i never disturb the roots when cleaning the gravel, i stay clear of
the plants and clean the clear areas of the tank instead,

prune away dead leaves

that's it really

Oh yeah, tape grass will grow just about anywhere, i have some in a
five gallon nursary tank full of ancistrus fry, the tank doesnt even
have a light, and i dont bother feeding the plants, and still the
tape grass grows! magic

chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22272 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
I have a book here "water chemistry for advance aquarists" 1973 ( it's not
new stuf) , they talk about the Peroxide, not only peroxide, they talk also
about ozone, the effect of peroxide ( related to algae ) is not to add
oxygen to water, it's for oxide the algae , because with algae the trick is
to change the redox potential. Forum start a lot before 1994 , I remember
in 1982 I was exchanging in BBS board.

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com which has been on the net since 1994, with copies of
original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and bulletin boards... the
early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22273 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Hummmmmmmmmm it's a long time I do not use pleco for algae, I have small
tank with sturisoma, they better for eat the algae, and best of all they
stay small, do not destroy the plantation and do not eat slim on fish . But
even with an algae eater, if you remove the algae the fish like to eat it
will leave place and food for the one they don't like, you do not fix algae
problem with fish, you fix it with the removal of over nutrient you have in
the tank, For the snail, you have variety of Botia ( the family of Clown
Loach) who stay smaller, and have the same taste for algae.

A 2 1/2 pleco will reach 6 to 8 inch in 10 to 12 months . of course if feed
properly,

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 16:00
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

I use the pleco for algae control and the clown loach for snail
control. Nothing I found would control these problems in any other
(smaller) tank is why I went to them. All my fish are roughly the
same size at the moment being between 2 to 2 1/2 inches.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to
18". The
> clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more
so they
> need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are
very
> aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking
fish.
>
> Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
> overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish
as the
> 55G is not big enough.
>
> What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long
as the fish
> grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their
body mass
> by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not
just "inches" long
> that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.
>
> You should probably double your filtration if you are going to
have big or
> dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near
enough
> filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks.
So on a
> 55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.
>
> The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank
with fish
> that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body
fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cmcferin
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water
>
> I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color
of "cloudy"
> is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial
bloom
> (sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that
could
> cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is
an algae
> bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water
(overfeeding is a
> good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or
its the
> fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with
a grain of
> salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed
shark are).
>
>
> If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it
should take
> care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your
Topfin?
>
> If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other
day and
> reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day
and see if
> that helps).
>
> My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer
for my
> plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.
>
> Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you
start seeing
> the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the
water
> parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have
to deal
> with the cloudy water.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had
this
> > problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned
waaaaay
> > down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the
side
> > looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35%
pwc
> > yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> > overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1
clown
> > loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be
rehomed
> > when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few
babies.
> > Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more
stocked
> > and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank
hoping it
> > would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> > changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> > carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at
every
> > other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant
pruning,
> > thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at
a
> > loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter
not
> > working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont
of
> > tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the
planted
> > tank look.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date:
5/9/2007 3:07
> PM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22274 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Fungus
I need some help. I brought my tank over to my house and I noticed that my fish have a fungus infection. I have tried putting Primafix in the tank, but it seems to be getting worse and not better. I have lost a lot of fish and I would like to put an end to it. Can anyone please give me more ideas on how to defeat it?
Thanks in advance
Keri


---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22275 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)
Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com which has been on the net since 1994, with copies of
original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and bulletin boards... the
early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22276 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Most reputable profiles show the Clown Loach reaching that size or near that
size. Of course, if someone keeps them in an undersized tank, they will
likely be stunted and probably won't reach their full potential.

When you say, "pleco will never reach 18 (inches) in a tank", that may be
true if they are kept in an undersized tank, but in the proper sized tank,
they should grow to their full potential. I have a 10" Liposarcus Pardalis
(one of the Common Pleco species) that I saved from a 10G tank where he
lived his first two years. He was only 4" when I saved him from the 10G.
He has grown 6" in the past two years in my 65G tank (which is only a temp
home for him). I was planning on a 125G but Hurricane Katrina came along
and changed my plans down here. I am not faced with rehoming him since my
65G isn't really big enough for him. I fully expect him to get close to his
full size once I get him out of the now-too-small 65G tank.

Here are several clown loach profiles that show 15" to 20" as their
attainable size but of course, they further state that they don't often
reach these sizes in tanks (but don't always say why.. but we know it's
because of stunting issues).
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile13.html
http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html
http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_clown.php

Stunting issues happen in lakes as well as tanks which is why many fish do
not reach their full potential... and of course when the avid anglers catch
them before they do. I'm sure your grandpa kept the lake from getting
overcrowded which allowed them to reach those 5 lb. sizes. :-D

Certainly, there are exceptions to every rule and your 10 year old clown
that only reached 8" in a proper sized 125G tank, could have been a runt...
unless you did not own it originally and it was stunted in it's earlier
years.

I'm sure most fish keepers would prefer to have their fish reach their
attainable size, rather than have them be stunted in an undersized tank.

Quite often, people buy a fish based on the pet store employees telling them
it would work in their tank but quite often, the pet store employees do not
really know the proper stocking information for the fish they sell. It's
why so many common pleco's end up in undersized tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

Clown loach of 20" ???? where you get this info in the Guiness book, they
grow very slow, I Have one for 10 years and it reach only 8" in a 125 gal. I
have I think all the variety of Botia here,usally they do fine in group of
2. I have at one time a 22" pleco, a wild import capture fish, Pleco will
never reach 18" in a tank,. My grandma was catching rainbow trout at 5
pounds, but in the same lake it was rare than someone catch it over 2
pounds, you have exceptional fish who get very big, but not all of them,

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to 18". The
clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more so they
need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are very
aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking fish.

Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish as the
55G is not big enough.

What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long as the fish
grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their body mass
by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not just "inches" long
that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.

You should probably double your filtration if you are going to have big or
dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near enough
filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks. So on a
55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.

The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank with fish
that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of cmcferin
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color of "cloudy"
is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial bloom
(sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that could
cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is an algae
bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water (overfeeding is a
good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or its the
fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with a grain of
salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed shark are).

If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it should take
care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your Topfin?

If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other day and
reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day and see if
that helps).

My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer for my
plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.

Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you start seeing
the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the water
parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have to deal
with the cloudy water.

Hope that helps.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had this
> problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned waaaaay
> down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the side
> looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35% pwc
> yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1 clown
> loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be rehomed
> when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few babies.
> Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more stocked
> and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank hoping it
> would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at every
> other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant pruning,
> thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at a
> loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter not
> working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont of
> tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the planted
> tank look.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22277 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
The 1994 start was pertaining to TheKrib's website where he has preserved
much of the old info from the BBS and newsgroups. Heck, you should check it
out. You might even have some posts on the site. ;)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

I have a book here "water chemistry for advance aquarists" 1973 ( it's not
new stuf) , they talk about the Peroxide, not only peroxide, they talk also
about ozone, the effect of peroxide ( related to algae ) is not to add
oxygen to water, it's for oxide the algae , because with algae the trick is
to change the redox potential. Forum start a lot before 1994 , I remember in
1982 I was exchanging in BBS board.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> which has been on the net
since 1994, with copies of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and
bulletin boards... the early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22278 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
First you have to verify if it's bacterial or fungal, bacterial often look
like fungus too. Primafix, This homeopathic grandma recipe kill more fish
than it's save. If you notice it's smell like turpentine, and like
turpentine it's remove the slim of the fish. ( I know it's not turpentine
but tea tree extract)

So if you don't know about the source, treat both of them , anyway fungus
appear more than often after a bacterial infection.

If the fish are large enough you can coat the white stuff with a soft brush
( outside the tank) with Venugyl, a gyno product, who combine
antibacterial, antifungal and anti-protozan ( not the case here)
Since I have access to any medicine I want I do not use commercial one sold
for fish but a good solution will be to use Maroxy from Mandel, it contain
an antifungal and also effective for some bacteria , you add to the tank
also Maracyn-Plus .


Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri Kimball
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:24
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Fungus

I need some help. I brought my tank over to my house and I noticed that my
fish have a fungus infection. I have tried putting Primafix in the tank, but
it seems to be getting worse and not better. I have lost a lot of fish and I
would like to put an end to it. Can anyone please give me more ideas on how
to defeat it?
Thanks in advance
Keri


---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22279 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Tell us more about your tank. How big is it? How long has it been set up?
Filtration? Fish stocking and size? How often you do PWC's (partial water
changes) and filter maintenance? Your water parameters, ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH, KH, GH, temperature... any and/or all of these are helpful.

Take a look at this page at some of the pictures of various fungi issues and
see if you can identify yours. http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html

If you can take a picture of your fish, post it to the groups photo album
or your own online photo album and give us a link. Some things that look
like a fungus can actually be bacterial issues but Pimafix may still be
helpful for them also. It just depends on what is it.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fungus

I need some help. I brought my tank over to my house and I noticed that my
fish have a fungus infection. I have tried putting Primafix in the tank, but
it seems to be getting worse and not better. I have lost a lot of fish and I
would like to put an end to it. Can anyone please give me more ideas on how
to defeat it?
Thanks in advance
Keri

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22280 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out
here. You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it
out of context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html
<http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html>

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> which has been on the net
since 1994, with copies of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and
bulletin boards... the early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22281 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Here where you get your 20"

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html

But here the part you miss

"SIZE: To 20" (51 cm) in nature, usually not more than 12" (30 cm) in
captivity. "


I live for many years in South Asia, and I visit Borneo, 20" is extremely
rare for a wild catch.



The factor in limitation of growth can be environmental or concomitants of
the fish physiology


Now if you want an interesting reading on fish growth I suggest few book

"biology of fishes", Bond,
"Environmental factors and growth p.599 - 675 " Brett,

Now if you want to know the true about the growth hormone in the tank
"fish energetics" Jobling

Those book are use by students at college and university level,


Google fish keeping is one thing, reality is other

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22282 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
" I'm sure your grandpa kept the lake from getting
overcrowded which allowed them to reach those 5 lb. sizes. :-D"

Lenny we talk about a 25 miles long lake, 300 miles north of Montreal, not
a pound , a very restricted place at that time only 10 to 20 human was
living in this area, so as for the pollution . I made a mistake in my
translation it's a brook trout "Salvelinus fontinalis (Mitchill) " I put the
taxonomy name but it change every 10 years

If we keep my example the length is usually 10 to 12" but a guy catch one of
14,5 pound in 1915, and few year ago they beat the record ( I do not have
the referral) 5 pounds for this kind of trout is rare , 14 pounds it's an
exceptions

I get those referral from the book "Freshwater fishes of Canada" The
referral.

Now what I want to demonstrate, you throw a 20" number, who is not fund ,
in a tank a clown will reach normally 5" and slowly 8" and very slowly 12"
if ever . 20" are anomaly found in natural water.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22283 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Lenny how you can see the difference from bacterial or fungal from a pics post ??? (pls do not tell it to my wife, she don't like the new fluorescence microscope I bought )

Gerard


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Fungus

Tell us more about your tank. How big is it? How long has it been set up?
Filtration? Fish stocking and size? How often you do PWC's (partial water
changes) and filter maintenance? Your water parameters, ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH, KH, GH, temperature... any and/or all of these are helpful.

Take a look at this page at some of the pictures of various fungi issues and
see if you can identify yours. http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html

If you can take a picture of your fish, post it to the groups photo album
or your own online photo album and give us a link. Some things that look
like a fungus can actually be bacterial issues but Pimafix may still be
helpful for them also. It just depends on what is it.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fungus

I need some help. I brought my tank over to my house and I noticed that my
fish have a fungus infection. I have tried putting Primafix in the tank, but
it seems to be getting worse and not better. I have lost a lot of fish and I
would like to put an end to it. Can anyone please give me more ideas on how
to defeat it?
Thanks in advance
Keri

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22284 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
I read all the full page on the ich,

What you do if the fish is not salt or heat tolerant???. Because some are
not, it's why I say you can't treat all the ich the same way.

It's remember me those old western movies where you see a guy selling a
solution to treat all the sickness.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out
here. You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it
out of context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html
<http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html>

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> which has been on the net
since 1994, with copies of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and
bulletin boards... the early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22285 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE K
Lenny I gone tell you exactly what I found, you have many people on many
groups, who have never purchase a book, the bought a tank put fish and after
ask themselves what they do wrong, I strongly suggest to buy few book, on
the general subject, why because it give a general idea about the hobby in a
more easy presentation than extract from website, after when the new
hobbyist will have some experience, he can start to read info left and
right, If you put your self in the shoes of a beginner, and read on the
subject of cycling, it can be very confusing. I remember when I was 12 years
old in 1972, I bought my first tank and at the same time my first book, and
not too long after a book from Axerold , at the time it was the standard,
today you will qualify it as crap. Crap certainly not because it give me the
way to achieve some success at the time and continue in the hobby. I found
Internet a good way for make some research, especially to share them, But I
don't find yet something who will be a good general reading for a beginner.
Talking about it probably one of the best book I will recommend for a
beginner is something like "Fish healt" by Chriss Andrew, it's a very cheap
book, who give good idea about some chemical and biological important
concept, the book is also easy to read.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out
here. You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it
out of context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html
<http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html>

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> which has been on the net
since 1994, with copies of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and
bulletin boards... the early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22286 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
Gerard said: "It's remember me those old western movies where you see a guy
selling a solution to treat all the sickness."

But notching the arrow, pouring gunpowder on it, lighting it on fire and
pulling it out always worked! At least that's the way John Wayne always did
it! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I read all the full page on the ich,

What you do if the fish is not salt or heat tolerant???. Because some are
not, it's why I say you can't treat all the ich the same way.

It's remember me those old western movies where you see a guy selling a
solution to treat all the sickness.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:53 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out here.
You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it out of
context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > ] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> <http://www.thekrib.com
<http://www.thekrib.com> > which has been on the net since 1994, with copies
of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and bulletin boards... the
early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > ] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22287 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)
It's not Stalone ????

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 20:03
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

Gerard said: "It's remember me those old western movies where you see a guy
selling a solution to treat all the sickness."

But notching the arrow, pouring gunpowder on it, lighting it on fire and
pulling it out always worked! At least that's the way John Wayne always did
it! :D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I read all the full page on the ich,

What you do if the fish is not salt or heat tolerant???. Because some are
not, it's why I say you can't treat all the ich the same way.

It's remember me those old western movies where you see a guy selling a
solution to treat all the sickness.

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:53 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out here.
You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it out of
context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > ] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> <http://www.thekrib.com
<http://www.thekrib.com> > which has been on the net since 1994, with copies
of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and bulletin boards... the
early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com > ] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22288 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
I have to agree on the pleco statement.
I had two and one was over 15 inches long in just a few years, nowhere near 10 years. His tank mate another pleco was about 13 inches. Also only a few years old.

Mike G.


-----Original Message-----
From: GoldLenny@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 10 May 2007 3:33 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water



When you say, "pleco will never reach 18 (inches) in a tank", that may be
true if they are kept in an undersized tank, but in the proper sized tank,
they should grow to their full potential. I have a 10" Liposarcus Pardalis
(one of the Common Pleco species) that I saved from a 10G tank where he
lived his first two years. He was only 4" when I saved him from the 10G.
He has grown 6" in the past two years in my 65G tank (which is only a temp
home for him). I was planning on a 125G but Hurricane Katrina came along
and changed my plans down here. I am not faced with rehoming him since my
65G isn't really big enough for him. I fully expect him to get close to his
full size once I get him out of the now-too-small 65G tank.

Here are several clown loach profiles that show 15" to 20" as their
attainable size but of course, they further state that they don't often
reach these sizes in tanks (but don't always say why.. but we know it's
because of stunting issues).
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile13.html
http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html
http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_clown.php

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22289 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: lenny
What other fish groups are you in?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22290 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done it
that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing about
cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@...>
wrote:
>
> if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with fish, i
> think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the tank
> with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on the
> light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away for
> three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or nitrazorb -
> nothing.
>
> The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters will
> start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates will
> rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and creates
> nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only nitrate
> present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a small
> number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to keep
> up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two, then
> do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if you
> see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
>
> If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then all
> you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony needs
> to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
>
> Chris
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22291 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
What kind of hydrogen peroxide. Is there a special kind for tanks.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only
for algae
> problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are
suffocating of
> lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they
can
> tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill
the Brown
> Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the
green who
> will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't
treat
> algae with chemical.
>
>
>
> . HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae
issues.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22292 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does not
mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your tank,
the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration as
well is superfluous.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that shoots up
water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be good
but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
oxygen for the fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22293 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Used Tank
There is nothing wrong with using bleach as a cleaning agent, so long as you properly prepare the tank after its use. Rinse the tank well, and rinse yet again. Then fill with water and use a good dechlorinator. You can buy a test kit, if you want, that will test for chlorine to ensure you have a tank of chlorine free water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Used Tank

So I can still use the 10 gallon that I had cleaned with bleach before
I knoew you weren't supposed to clean with bleach??? That would be
awsome! It's been outside in the sun for several weeks now (maybe even
months), so it needs a new cleaning, but it would be awsome to be able
to use it!

Karen




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Karen M Smith <kmsmith90@...>
wrote:
>
> is it a glass tank? If so, scrape the glass clean with razor blade
type scrapor. Also, if you need abrasive cleaning power, use a new
green nylon(?) dish scrubber with salt. Then clean glass with vinegar
and rinse well. Sometimes I soak in bleach water after the vinegar
cleansing. Then rinse and set in sunlight for a couple days or just
rinse very well. Sunlight supposedly gets the chlorine out. After all
that you should not have any lingering fish disease from prior
inhabitants. If acrylic, don't use these methods.I don't know about
acrylic tanks.




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22294 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen of 8ppm,
at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at the
surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period. The higher
the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who put salt
in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the water can
contain , usally 1 ppm less

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does not
mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your tank,
the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration as
well is superfluous.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that shoots up
water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be good
but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
oxygen for the fish?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22295 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Clown loaches in the wild get to be a foot long or mabey a little
larger. My parents had a pair of common plecos that reached over 2
foot long.Yes there are exceptions to the rule of sizes that fish
get but try to think positive that they can cet to the larger size
and give them tank space for that size. They say clown loaches are
slow growing but I have three that have grown from 2 &1/2 inches to
almost 4 inches in less than 6 months.

>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka
GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water
>
> The common pleco will overstock the tank by itself. They grow to
18". The
> clown loach grows to 20" and should be kept in groups of 5 or more
so they
> need 100G plus. The red tail shark only reaches around 6" but are
very
> aggressive to conspecifics (same species) and to similar looking
fish.
>
> Depending on the size of your fish, you may or may not be severely
> overstocked at this time but you will need to rehome your BIG fish
as the
> 55G is not big enough.
>
> What might have worked 3 or 6 months ago, will not work for long
as the fish
> grow. When they double their length, they actually increase their
body mass
> by 4 to 8 times, depending on the body type so it's not
just "inches" long
> that you need to take into consideration when stocking a tank.
>
> You should probably double your filtration if you are going to
have big or
> dirty fish. Pleco's poop a lot so the TopFin 60 is nowhere near
enough
> filtration. I use 10X filtration on my goldfish and pleco tanks.
So on a
> 55G, you should have 550 gallons per hour of total filtration.
>
> The topfin60 probably would be OK for a tropical community tank
with fish
> that stay small... but it's not enough filtration for large body
fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cmcferin
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:23 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water
>
> I am currently having the same problem with my 135. What color
of "cloudy"
> is your water? Is it white or green? White is normally a bacterial
bloom
> (sometimes caused by changing your filter or other additives that
could
> cause a dieout of bacteria for your biological filter). Green is
an algae
> bloom, mostly caused by too much nutrients in the water
(overfeeding is a
> good example of this). I do not think your tank is overstocked or
its the
> fault of the plants. (Well I should say the overstocked part with
a grain of
> salt because I do not know how big the clown loach or red-tailed
shark are).
>
>
> If it is white, then keep the feeding to normal levels and it
should take
> care of itself. What kind of filter material do you use in your
Topfin?
>
> If the water is green, then I would go with feeding every other
day and
> reduce your lighting (personally I would leave it off for a day
and see if
> that helps).
>
> My problem is an algae bloom that occurred when I added fertilizer
for my
> plants. Leaving the light off for a day gave a dramatic difference.
>
> Big deal here is, keep an eye on your water parameters. If you
start seeing
> the ammonia or nitrates, start your water changes. As long as the
water
> parameters are good, then your fish should be OK...you just have
to deal
> with the cloudy water.
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > In my 55 gallon tank it has went to a very cloudy state. I had
this
> > problem once before and it turned out my filter got turned
waaaaay
> > down. Looking at it from the front you can't tell, but from the
side
> > looks terrible. What could cause this? It is planted, got a 35%
pwc
> > yesterday to try to clear it up, but didn't help. Possibly
> > overstocked? Fish are 1 swordtail, 2 black mollies, 3 danios, 1
clown
> > loach, 1 red tailed black shark, 1 black khuli loach (will be
rehomed
> > when I can catch it lol), 3 platties, 1 common plec and a few
babies.
> > Thought water was the problem but all my other tanks are more
stocked
> > and are crystal clear.I have added crystal clear to my tank
hoping it
> > would help and all it did was make it worse. I have tried pwcs,
> > changing both my filter pads(not at the same time), changing the
> > carbon in the filter pads. I have been vacuming the gravel at
every
> > other water change (only half at a time). I do regular plant
pruning,
> > thinking the plants are doing it but nothing is helping. I am at
a
> > loss. My filter is turned up as far as it can go. Is my filter
not
> > working as it should? It is a topfin 60. I am almost to the pont
of
> > tossing my plants and going back to plastic but I love the
planted
> > tank look.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date:
5/9/2007 3:07
> PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş>
¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş
((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>


















--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Clown loach of 20" ???? where you get this info in the Guiness
book, they grow very slow, I Have one for 10 years and it reach
only 8" in a 125 gal. I have I think all the variety of Botia
here,usally they do fine in group of 2. I have at one time a 22"
pleco, a wild import capture fish, Pleco will never reach 18" in a
tank,. My grandma was catching rainbow trout at 5 pounds, but in the
same lake it was rare than someone catch it over 2 pounds, you have
exceptional fish who get very big, but not all of them,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22296 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Loaches in general are not algae eaters. They like to eat high
protein food like the snails. If it is a small tankand cycled you
could use otto cats to help control algae.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hummmmmmmmmm it's a long time I do not use pleco for algae, I
have small
> tank with sturisoma, they better for eat the algae, and best of
all they
> stay small, do not destroy the plantation and do not eat slim on
fish . But
> even with an algae eater, if you remove the algae the fish like to
eat it
> will leave place and food for the one they don't like, you do not
fix algae
> problem with fish, you fix it with the removal of over nutrient
you have in
> the tank, For the snail, you have variety of Botia ( the family
of Clown
> Loach) who stay smaller, and have the same taste for algae.
>
> A 2 1/2 pleco will reach 6 to 8 inch in 10 to 12 months . of
course if feed
> properly,
>
> Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22297 From: Jerry Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
I means they have same taste for snails , not algae,



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: cloudy water

Loaches in general are not algae eaters. They like to eat high
protein food like the snails. If it is a small tankand cycled you
could use otto cats to help control algae.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Hummmmmmmmmm it's a long time I do not use pleco for algae, I
have small
> tank with sturisoma, they better for eat the algae, and best of
all they
> stay small, do not destroy the plantation and do not eat slim on
fish . But
> even with an algae eater, if you remove the algae the fish like to
eat it
> will leave place and food for the one they don't like, you do not
fix algae
> problem with fish, you fix it with the removal of over nutrient
you have in
> the tank, For the snail, you have variety of Botia ( the family
of Clown
> Loach) who stay smaller, and have the same taste for algae.
>
> A 2 1/2 pleco will reach 6 to 8 inch in 10 to 12 months . of
course if feed
> properly,
>
> Gerard




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22298 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio wheel
filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph is
7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen
of 8ppm,
> at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at
the
> surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
The higher
> the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who
put salt
> in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the
water can
> contain , usally 1 ppm less
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does
not
> mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
tank,
> the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
> provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration
as
> well is superfluous.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22299 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: lenny
While this is one of my often recommended Yahoo groups, you can go to my
blog and on the top right, I have a list of all of the other Yahoo groups
that I subscribe to and forums that I visit on a regular basis. I am also a
member at dozens of other specialty sites for pleco's, catfish, shrimp,
snails, plants, etc., when something comes up that I want some specialty
advice.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] lenny

What other fish groups are you in?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22300 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: what temp and ph do the fish like
mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22301 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/10/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Just the regular little brown bottles like at the drug store or grocery
store. It's usually 3% Hydrogen Peroxide.

While it is OK to keep around, especially for disinfecting fish related
things, it should not be indiscriminately added to your tank... even though
we talked about many of the things it can be used for in this thread.

Most of these things should be handled with regular water, filter and gravel
maintenance. HP is usually used for the most stubborn of algae problems
when nothing else will work in heavily planted tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)


What kind of hydrogen peroxide. Is there a special kind for tanks.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only
for algae
> problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are
suffocating of
> lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they
can
> tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill
the Brown
> Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the
green who
> will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't
treat
> algae with chemical.
>
>
>
> . HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae
issues.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date: 5/9/2007 3:07
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22302 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Noticed your post of about 3:11PM yesterday afternoon, announcing
your email address. I sent an off-Group message directly to your
email box containing the Mid-South (and other) Aquarium Society's
email address, at 7:46AM (yesterday morning). I haven't seen it
bounce back so I assume you must have got it. I'll forward that same
message to you again on the possibility you may have accidentally
erased the original, if you haven't seen it. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> ok my email address is dctn_2005 at yahoo
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Mem, Wow, that is strange!!! I just noticed that none of the
> email
> > addresses I gave you are complete (yes, I sent complete email
> > addresses for all these clubs). It appears that either the
> moderator
> > deleted that part or possibly Yahoo automatically deletes it just
> as
> > I believe it deletes that portion of our emails when we post. I
> see
> > they're also missing in my Group site (archive) post, message
> #22215,
> > not only in the email. I will somehow try to get this info to
> you,
> > even if off-line. Perhaps if I can come up with you email
> address, I
> > will be able to do this, but it probably won't do any good for
you
> to
> > send that to me via the Group site since it will be erased. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Raymond
> > > Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> > > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in
> Memphis.
> > > Phone
> > > > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
> > > > there's the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
> > miles
> > > > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553,
> email <
> > > > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium
> > > > Society in Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak
> Ridge,
> > > between
> > > > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ >
> > > > and < derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There
> > > > are also several salt water clubs like the West Tennessee
> Marine
> > > and
> > > > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39"
> <dctn_2005@>
> > > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22303 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Lenny you read someplace they use Hydrogen Peroxyde , but you have to know
also how it work, Hydrogen Peroxide is only a medium strength oxidation
agent , it will not be strong enough to take care of the algae who contain
carotenes , because carotene is a anti-oxidants , in more stubborn case you
need Ozone , a more powerful oxidation agent

Where do you get the abbreviation HP for Hydrogen Peroxide it's, H2O2

.......HP is usually used for the most stubborn of algae problems
when nothing else will work in heavily planted tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22304 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Are you blaming the fish store for the thing you don't know ?????.
2 months and no nitrite showing, obviously you have something you do wrong.
I will start to make sure you know how to use the Nitrite test kit, and make
sure also it's not expire .


Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 21:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates

PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done it
that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing about
cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@...>
wrote:
>
> if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with fish, i
> think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the tank
> with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on the
> light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away for
> three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or nitrazorb -
> nothing.
>
> The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters will
> start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates will
> rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and creates
> nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only nitrate
> present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a small
> number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to keep
> up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two, then
> do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if you
> see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
>
> If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then all
> you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony needs
> to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
>
> Chris
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22305 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Can you made a history of that tank, with all the equipment in it and all
the chemical and bioload. What kind of test kit you use, and their
expiration date.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio wheel
filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph is
7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen
of 8ppm,
> at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at
the
> surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
The higher
> the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who
put salt
> in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the
water can
> contain , usally 1 ppm less
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does
not
> mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
tank,
> the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
> provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration
as
> well is superfluous.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22306 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR MEMPHIS
Thanks Lenny, Now it makes sense. Come to think of it, I have
seen "-at-" used but didn't know why or for that matter, if it was
necessary (I've learned it is!). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> It's to keep spam-bots from crawling through the webpages finding
email
> addresses. Just replace the "@" with "-at-", like... address-at-
gmail.com
> and most folks know to replace the "-at-" with @. Sometimes you
will also
> see address(at)gmail.com.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: DOES ANYBODY KNOW OF FISH GROUPS NEAR
MEMPHIS
>
> Okay, In re-checking, I find I'm wrong about your email not
appearing at the
> top of your post. I just wasn't sure and didn't want to lose what I
already
> typed, just to go back and check that out. I'll send you the needed
info off
> line. It sure does not benefit you or the group by these emails
being
> partially hidden, as they were, nor is this practice protecting
anybody. As
> information essential to the topic at hand, you would think that the
> moderator would allow (or reconstruct, if possible) this info to go
through.
>
> Later, Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Raymond
> > Do you know the whole email address for the one in memphis?
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> , "Raymond Wetzel"
> > <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Mem, The Mid-South Aquarium Society is located in Memphis.
> > Phone
> > > number is (901) - 327-8411 or email to < dbeatty@ >. Then,
there's
> > > the West Tennessee Cichlid Club in Jackson, about 65
> miles
> > > northeast of Memphis. Phone number is (731) - 427- 8553, email
<
> > > ijohnson0819@ There's also the Putnam County Aquarium Society
in
> > > Cookeville but they're way east closer to Oak Ridge,
> > between
> > > Nashville and Knoxville. Their emails are: < michelle@ > and <
> > > derrik@ >, whom I believe is the president. There are also
several
> > > salt water clubs like the West Tennessee Marine
> > and
> > > Reef Aquarium Society. Ray
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
> > > <dctn_2005@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Im looking for a fish group near memphis. Are there any?
> > > >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.6/795 - Release Date:
5/9/2007 3:07
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22307 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the market,
they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe people than it
work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the organics and second
assist in the nitrogen cycle

A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic bacteria who
break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia, the Maryland
filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the few fibber
people will add to it that will change

The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin to fast to
produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by himself, it
retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface retention of
the wheels keep mainly always the same water.

If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have a god sponge
size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce the flow (
they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel in the tank
take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when you siphon a
tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it cycle you
only siphon a small surface at the time.

Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They always overate
their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal filter or
remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20 gal. tank I
use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with sensitive fin you
just reduce the flow

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio wheel
filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph is
7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen
of 8ppm,
> at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at
the
> surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
The higher
> the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who
put salt
> in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the
water can
> contain , usally 1 ppm less
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does
not
> mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
tank,
> the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
> provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration
as
> well is superfluous.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22308 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
The 0,5 reading you have is for the combine Ammonia and Ammonium, your
Ammonia is at 0,02 ppm since the PH is at 7,8, Have you made test since the
start of the tank ? may be your cycling is done and the Ammonia test is
expire, expire ammonia test give positive false result.



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio wheel
filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph is
7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen
of 8ppm,
> at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at
the
> surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
The higher
> the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who
put salt
> in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the
water can
> contain , usally 1 ppm less
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does
not
> mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
tank,
> the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
> provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration
as
> well is superfluous.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22309 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Jerry, In support of your post concerning the use of Hydrogen
Peroxide with oxygen-deprived fish, this oxidation agent has many
uses in the aquarium or in the pond. Here we are talking about 3%
solution, not the Food Grade 35% solution, although there is a 6%
solution on the market, not available in the U.S., but maybe in Canada
(?).

For this widely used 3% solution, even though it may be rated as only
a medium strength oxidizer, at a local concentration it can be strong
enough to be detrimental to fish if administered too closely. A
pocket of undiluted 3% solution, if taken in by a fish and passed by
the gills will oxidize the membrane's tissue, causing scar tissue in
the long term (if the fish survives) or will burn the gills, possibly
causing the fish's death shortly thereafter.

For this reason, although it is generally recommended to add the
Peroxide solution near the fish, care should be taken to ensure this
agent is not added too close to any fish. Even though Hydrogen
Peroxide's life is not long in a water environment, this product
would be more safely used if it were more thoroughly circulated
throughout the water column as opposed to the danger of getting a
concentration of it too near the recipient, or added more diluted in
the fish's proximity. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only
for algae
> problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are
suffocating of
> lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they
can
> tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill
the Brown
> Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the
green who
> will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't
treat
> algae with chemical.
>
>
>
> . HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae
issues.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22310 From: Wendie Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
I use 2 filters on all my 10 gallon tanks. On the 20 gallon tanks I have one external, one internal, and one power head for oxygen.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 7:32 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the market,
they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe people than it
work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the organics and second
assist in the nitrogen cycle

A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic bacteria who
break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia, the Maryland
filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the few fibber
people will add to it that will change

The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin to fast to
produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by himself, it
retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface retention of
the wheels keep mainly always the same water.

If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have a god sponge
size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce the flow (
they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel in the tank
take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when you siphon a
tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it cycle you
only siphon a small surface at the time.

Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They always overate
their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal filter or
remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20 gal. tank I
use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with sensitive fin you
just reduce the flow

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio wheel
filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph is
7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in oxygen
of 8ppm,
> at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air at
the
> surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
The higher
> the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one who
put salt
> in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than the
water can
> contain , usally 1 ppm less
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably does
not
> mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
tank,
> the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient to
> provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running aeration
as
> well is superfluous.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
>
> I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
shoots up
> water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that you
> usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes be
good
> but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too much
> oxygen for the fish?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
((((:>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
((((><74/`7.88.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22311 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)
Ray, I agree with you, caution have to be take when using Peroxide with
fish, you concern about the gill are well fund, I will express also concern
about the effect it will have on the slim of the fish , after all the slim
of the fish is one of the only kind of protection a fish have from the
bacterial culture he live in.

I'm not using peroxide in my tank at all, my level of Oxygen is always good,
I treat my algae problem a different way. I always prone natural method to
do thing, prevention always give best result

Of course the 3% solution was the one I refer as medium oxidant , at this
concentration Ozone is more powerful. And usually when they use an ozoner in
a tank it's more gradual too, the fish are not in contact with a high
concentration. When I was young I use peroxide with concentration of near
90% for propellant for my rocket, at this concentration it's a very strong
oxidant a piece of wood in contact with it will catch immediately in fire.

The peroxide is sold in 2 different units, % and volume, 1% hydrogen
peroxide releases 3.3 volumes of oxygen during decomposition. So a 3%
solution is equivalent to 10 volumes and a 6% solution to 20 volume, etc. I
think they sold until 30 volume in pharmacy here, ( for bleaching the hair )
so a 9% solution.

I start to talk about peroxide when someone mentions it was use in fishless
tank to remove algae. I also mention than usually they use Ozone to remove
algae when a 3% solution is not sufficient.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22312 From: Keri Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Fungus
The best picture I can see from that group is the Body Fungus. I don't
have a camera to post pictures of, mine was ruined (long story). The
stuff looks like cotton on my fish. It seems to start at their tail the
progress up their back. I have a 55 gl aquarium, I have 2 whisper
filters on it, but no charcoal right now due to primafix. I have live
bearers in the tank along with some plecos and clown loaches. These
fish have been together for a long time, I just moved them over wached
the tank, changed 2 of the 3 filters and set it back up. My water is
real cloudy now and I was going to take about half the water out this
weekend and see if that would help. In all my years with fish I have
never had this before.

Keri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22313 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Melafix and Primafix (was :RE: [AquaticLife] Fungus)
I talk in a previous post about my concern with Primafix , I made a mistake
Primafix is Bay oil and Melafix id Tea Tree oil, I post some info on my web
site here a resume :


Melafix is Tea Oil, it' s a safe oil (that's the one who smell turpentide)

http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/products/tea_tree_oil.htm



Primafix is simply Bay oil , it's a high eugenol content and may irritate
the skin and mucus membranes, so it should be use with caution on the human
skin.
I do not recommend this products with scaleless fish or fish with a very tin
slim coat, I see this product remove the slim of an Silver Dollars in few
second after recommended application.


http://www.aqualab.ca/healt/pharmacology/products/bay_oil.htm



Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22314 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Kery if I resume well, you move that tank, wash the filters and put back the
full load of fish in the tank, I suppose you deeply rinse also the gravel.
????



Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Fungus

The best picture I can see from that group is the Body Fungus. I don't
have a camera to post pictures of, mine was ruined (long story). The
stuff looks like cotton on my fish. It seems to start at their tail the
progress up their back. I have a 55 gl aquarium, I have 2 whisper
filters on it, but no charcoal right now due to primafix. I have live
bearers in the tank along with some plecos and clown loaches. These
fish have been together for a long time, I just moved them over wached
the tank, changed 2 of the 3 filters and set it back up. My water is
real cloudy now and I was going to take about half the water out this
weekend and see if that would help. In all my years with fish I have
never had this before.

Keri



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22315 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Have you look at pics about fin rot ???


Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Fungus

The best picture I can see from that group is the Body Fungus. I don't
have a camera to post pictures of, mine was ruined (long story). The
stuff looks like cotton on my fish. It seems to start at their tail the
progress up their back. I have a 55 gl aquarium, I have 2 whisper
filters on it, but no charcoal right now due to primafix. I have live
bearers in the tank along with some plecos and clown loaches. These
fish have been together for a long time, I just moved them over wached
the tank, changed 2 of the 3 filters and set it back up. My water is
real cloudy now and I was going to take about half the water out this
weekend and see if that would help. In all my years with fish I have
never had this before.

Keri



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22316 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
No Im not blaming the store. The kit is a american something. I just
bought it at petco a month ago. Ill look when I get home.
Its a water test that test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Are you blaming the fish store for the thing you don't know ?????.
> 2 months and no nitrite showing, obviously you have something you
do wrong.
> I will start to make sure you know how to use the Nitrite test
kit, and make
> sure also it's not expire .
>
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 21:49
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
>
> PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done it
> that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing
about
> cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@>
> wrote:
> >
> > if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with fish,
i
> > think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the
tank
> > with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on the
> > light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away
for
> > three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or nitrazorb -
> > nothing.
> >
> > The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters
will
> > start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> > nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates will
> > rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and
creates
> > nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only
nitrate
> > present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a small
> > number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to
keep
> > up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two,
then
> > do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if
you
> > see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
> >
> > If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then
all
> > you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony
needs
> > to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
> >
> > Chris
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22317 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Ill look when I get home but the water test is only a month old. Ive
been testing everyday for the past 2 months. I did put a new bio
wheel filter in it 2 weeks ago and the ammonia went back down to
0..Maybe my daughter cleans it too throuly, however you spell it.
She cleans it once a week with a python. When she cleans it she does
vacuum it to where just about all the water come out.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> The 0,5 reading you have is for the combine Ammonia and Ammonium,
your
> Ammonia is at 0,02 ppm since the PH is at 7,8, Have you made test
since the
> start of the tank ? may be your cycling is done and the Ammonia
test is
> expire, expire ammonia test give positive false result.
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio
wheel
> filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY ph
is
> 7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or nitrates.
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in
oxygen
> of 8ppm,
> > at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp air
at
> the
> > surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short period.
> The higher
> > the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one
who
> put salt
> > in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than
the
> water can
> > contain , usally 1 ppm less
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
> gallon
> >
> > Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably
does
> not
> > mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for your
> tank,
> > the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than sufficient
to
> > provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running
aeration
> as
> > well is superfluous.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
> >
> > I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
> shoots up
> > water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose that
you
> > usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and closes
be
> good
> > but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too
much
> > oxygen for the fish?
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:>
8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
> ((((:>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
> ((((><74/`7.88.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22318 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Its a ten gallon tank and the bio wheel filter is for a 20 gallon.
Maybe thats it. My daughter has been siphoning the gravel to where
almost all the water comes out. Should I just take 25% of the water
out instead of cleaning the gravel.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use 2 filters on all my 10 gallon tanks. On the 20 gallon tanks
I have one external, one internal, and one power head for oxygen.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 7:32 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a
ten gallon
>
>
> The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the
market,
> they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe
people than it
> work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the
organics and second
> assist in the nitrogen cycle
>
> A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic
bacteria who
> break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia,
the Maryland
> filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the
few fibber
> people will add to it that will change
>
> The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin
to fast to
> produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by
himself, it
> retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface
retention of
> the wheels keep mainly always the same water.
>
> If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have
a god sponge
> size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce
the flow (
> they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel
in the tank
> take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when
you siphon a
> tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it
cycle you
> only siphon a small surface at the time.
>
> Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They
always overate
> their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal
filter or
> remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20
gal. tank I
> use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with
sensitive fin you
> just reduce the flow
>
> Gerard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio
wheel
> filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY
ph is
> 7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or
nitrates.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in
oxygen
> of 8ppm,
> > at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp
air at
> the
> > surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short
period.
> The higher
> > the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one
who
> put salt
> > in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than
the
> water can
> > contain , usally 1 ppm less
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
> gallon
> >
> > Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably
does
> not
> > mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for
your
> tank,
> > the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than
sufficient to
> > provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running
aeration
> as
> > well is superfluous.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
> >
> > I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
> shoots up
> > water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose
that you
> > usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and
closes be
> good
> > but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too
much
> > oxygen for the fish?
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:>
8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
> ((((:>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
> ((((><74/`7.88.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22319 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
By chance is it an Aquarium Pharmaceutical ?? The color of the chart
include with any kit is not always correct, try to get some RO water or
demineralise one, and make a test with this water at same time than the one
in your tank, and compare the color. Do not use your tap water, it can
contain chloramines If it's API test kit depending on you light in the room
the ammonia can give you a hue who will look like 0,25 even if the water
have no ammonia , but the Nitrite test of API are easy to see between 0 and
the first level.

So if I understand well, you start your tank , and only after 2 to 4 weeks
you buy the test ???? if so the tank is may be cycled and you have a false
ammonia reading


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 13:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates

No Im not blaming the store. The kit is a american something. I just
bought it at petco a month ago. Ill look when I get home.
Its a water test that test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Are you blaming the fish store for the thing you don't know ?????.
> 2 months and no nitrite showing, obviously you have something you
do wrong.
> I will start to make sure you know how to use the Nitrite test
kit, and make
> sure also it's not expire .
>
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 21:49
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
>
> PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done it
> that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing
about
> cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@>
> wrote:
> >
> > if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with fish,
i
> > think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the
tank
> > with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on the
> > light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away
for
> > three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or nitrazorb -
> > nothing.
> >
> > The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters
will
> > start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> > nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates will
> > rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and
creates
> > nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only
nitrate
> > present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a small
> > number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to
keep
> > up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two,
then
> > do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if
you
> > see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
> >
> > If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then
all
> > you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony
needs
> > to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
> >
> > Chris
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22320 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: filters
I have a underground filter with the 2 tall things on each side and
the bio wheel for a 20 gallon but I have a ten gallon. What is a
powerhead?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22321 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
Yes its a API test kit and I did buy it 2 weeks after I bought the
tank.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> By chance is it an Aquarium Pharmaceutical ?? The color of the
chart
> include with any kit is not always correct, try to get some RO
water or
> demineralise one, and make a test with this water at same time
than the one
> in your tank, and compare the color. Do not use your tap water, it
can
> contain chloramines If it's API test kit depending on you light
in the room
> the ammonia can give you a hue who will look like 0,25 even if the
water
> have no ammonia , but the Nitrite test of API are easy to see
between 0 and
> the first level.
>
> So if I understand well, you start your tank , and only after 2 to
4 weeks
> you buy the test ???? if so the tank is may be cycled and you
have a false
> ammonia reading
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 13:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
>
> No Im not blaming the store. The kit is a american something. I
just
> bought it at petco a month ago. Ill look when I get home.
> Its a water test that test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Are you blaming the fish store for the thing you don't
know ?????.
> > 2 months and no nitrite showing, obviously you have something
you
> do wrong.
> > I will start to make sure you know how to use the Nitrite test
> kit, and make
> > sure also it's not expire .
> >
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 21:49
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
> >
> > PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done
it
> > that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing
> about
> > cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with
fish,
> i
> > > think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the
> tank
> > > with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on
the
> > > light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away
> for
> > > three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or
nitrazorb -
> > > nothing.
> > >
> > > The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters
> will
> > > start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> > > nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates
will
> > > rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and
> creates
> > > nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only
> nitrate
> > > present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a
small
> > > number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to
> keep
> > > up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two,
> then
> > > do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if
> you
> > > see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
> > >
> > > If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then
> all
> > > you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony
> needs
> > > to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22322 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
In your case, the gravel contain the most important stock of the nitrifying
bacteria of your aquarium , the bacteria build a biofilm around them , (
same in the mouth with the gum) so when you clean the gravel you remove the
biofilm and the bacteria, the first 6 week of a tank, you do not siphon the
half bottom of the tank, and after you do only a part of the gravel at the
time.

You said you daughter remove nearly all the water, do you replace the water
with untreated tap water. If so it can contain chloramines , a mixture of
ammonia and chlorine, it will false your test kit and the worst part it
will kill the bacteria in the tank, and the ammonia and chlorine will kill
also the fish.

To be honest it's very hard to fallow the story of that tank, and make a
good opinion on the situation.

You said you have molly fry in it, I guess you will have a lot more , so
may be it will be a good idea to restart the tank properly.


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 14:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Its a ten gallon tank and the bio wheel filter is for a 20 gallon.
Maybe thats it. My daughter has been siphoning the gravel to where
almost all the water comes out. Should I just take 25% of the water
out instead of cleaning the gravel.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use 2 filters on all my 10 gallon tanks. On the 20 gallon tanks
I have one external, one internal, and one power head for oxygen.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jerry
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 7:32 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a
ten gallon
>
>
> The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the
market,
> they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe
people than it
> work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the
organics and second
> assist in the nitrogen cycle
>
> A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic
bacteria who
> break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia,
the Maryland
> filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the
few fibber
> people will add to it that will change
>
> The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin
to fast to
> produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by
himself, it
> retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface
retention of
> the wheels keep mainly always the same water.
>
> If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have
a god sponge
> size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce
the flow (
> they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel
in the tank
> take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when
you siphon a
> tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it
cycle you
> only siphon a small surface at the time.
>
> Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They
always overate
> their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal
filter or
> remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20
gal. tank I
> use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with
sensitive fin you
> just reduce the flow
>
> Gerard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio
wheel
> filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY
ph is
> 7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or
nitrates.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in
oxygen
> of 8ppm,
> > at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp
air at
> the
> > surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short
period.
> The higher
> > the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one
who
> put salt
> > in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than
the
> water can
> > contain , usally 1 ppm less
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Steve Szabo
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
> gallon
> >
> > Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably
does
> not
> > mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for
your
> tank,
> > the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than
sufficient to
> > provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running
aeration
> as
> > well is superfluous.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
> >
> > I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
> shoots up
> > water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose
that you
> > usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and
closes be
> good
> > but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that too
much
> > oxygen for the fish?
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:>
8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
> ((((:>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
> ((((><74/`7.88.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22323 From: Jerry Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
If I add on all the info :

- Some Ammonia reading.
- No nitrate and nitrate reading
- Wash of the gravel with python
- large water change
- ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
- Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm

The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia cycling, this
tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.

If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and purchase Bio
spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make only the
minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new water,
but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24 hours,
It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because it's
neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the bacteria.
Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.

Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 14:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates

Yes its a API test kit and I did buy it 2 weeks after I bought the
tank.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> By chance is it an Aquarium Pharmaceutical ?? The color of the
chart
> include with any kit is not always correct, try to get some RO
water or
> demineralise one, and make a test with this water at same time
than the one
> in your tank, and compare the color. Do not use your tap water, it
can
> contain chloramines If it's API test kit depending on you light
in the room
> the ammonia can give you a hue who will look like 0,25 even if the
water
> have no ammonia , but the Nitrite test of API are easy to see
between 0 and
> the first level.
>
> So if I understand well, you start your tank , and only after 2 to
4 weeks
> you buy the test ???? if so the tank is may be cycled and you
have a false
> ammonia reading
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 13:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
>
> No Im not blaming the store. The kit is a american something. I
just
> bought it at petco a month ago. Ill look when I get home.
> Its a water test that test ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and ph.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Are you blaming the fish store for the thing you don't
know ?????.
> > 2 months and no nitrite showing, obviously you have something
you
> do wrong.
> > I will start to make sure you know how to use the Nitrite test
> kit, and make
> > sure also it's not expire .
> >
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 21:49
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: High Nitrites/ Nitrates
> >
> > PETCO doesnt tell you to do it fishless thou. I wish I had done
it
> > that way. 2 months ago when I got my 10 gallon I knew nothing
> about
> > cylcling or anything. Im still in the ammonia stage.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "chrisrnuttall" <c.nuttall@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > if you are cycling without fish (i dont like cycling with
fish,
> i
> > > think it's a bit cruel) then all you need to do is fill up the
> tank
> > > with tap water adding dechlorinator as apropriate, switch on
the
> > > light heat and pump, drop in a good pinch of food, and go away
> for
> > > three weeks - no water changes, no carbon filters or
nitrazorb -
> > > nothing.
> > >
> > > The nitrites will get higher and higher, then the nitrobacters
> will
> > > start to grow in numbers and start to turn the nitrites into
> > > nitrates (the nitrites will start to fall and the nitrates
will
> > > rise) add a little more food every week maybe, it rots and
> creates
> > > nitrites to feed the nitrobacter colony, when there is only
> nitrate
> > > present ie the nitrites have dropped to zero, introduce a
small
> > > number of fish. The bacteria colony will need time to grow to
> keep
> > > up with the higher nitrite production. Give it a week or two,
> then
> > > do a water change and add some more fish. Keep testing and if
> you
> > > see nitrites stop and wait for them to go.
> > >
> > > If you are doing daily water changes and using nitrazorb, then
> all
> > > you are doing is removing the very things the bacteria colony
> needs
> > > to thrive on, leave it alone and it will sort itself out.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22324 From: Mary Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Hi, my name is Mary, and I live in the midwest with my two cats, Tom
and Gabby. I've reached a point where I'm considering adopting
another pet, but am not quite sure what yet. I am a huge animal
lover, so picking one out of several possibilities is really hard for
me! That is sort of why I'm here. I'm researching different types of
pets, their habitats, care & maintenance, etc., before I actually move
forward with an adoption.

That said, if any of you can recommend generic books on aquatic pets,
that would be great! I have loads of time to read information.
Otherwise, I'm just gonna hang out here and read what I can about
aquatic pets and maybe ask questions if I have any. Thanks for having
me in the group!

--Mary
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22325 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> In your case, the gravel contain the most important stock of the
nitrifying
> bacteria of your aquarium , the bacteria build a biofilm around
them , (
> same in the mouth with the gum) so when you clean the gravel you
remove the
> biofilm and the bacteria, the first 6 week of a tank, you do not
siphon the
> half bottom of the tank, and after you do only a part of the gravel
at the
> time.
>
> You said you daughter remove nearly all the water, do you replace
the water
> with untreated tap water. If so it can contain chloramines , a
mixture of
> ammonia and chlorine, it will false your test kit and the worst
part it
> will kill the bacteria in the tank, and the ammonia and chlorine
will kill
> also the fish.
>
> To be honest it's very hard to fallow the story of that tank, and
make a
> good opinion on the situation.
>
> You said you have molly fry in it, I guess you will have a lot
more , so
> may be it will be a good idea to restart the tank properly.
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 14:04
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Its a ten gallon tank and the bio wheel filter is for a 20 gallon.
> Maybe thats it. My daughter has been siphoning the gravel to where
> almost all the water comes out. Should I just take 25% of the water
> out instead of cleaning the gravel.
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@> wrote:
> >
> > I use 2 filters on all my 10 gallon tanks. On the 20 gallon
tanks
> I have one external, one internal, and one power head for oxygen.
> > Wendie
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jerry
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 7:32 AM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a
> ten gallon
> >
> >
> > The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on
the
> market,
> > they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe
> people than it
> > work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the
> organics and second
> > assist in the nitrogen cycle
> >
> > A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic
> bacteria who
> > break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia,
> the Maryland
> > filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the
> few fibber
> > people will add to it that will change
> >
> > The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin
> to fast to
> > produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by
> himself, it
> > retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface
> retention of
> > the wheels keep mainly always the same water.
> >
> > If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have
> a god sponge
> > size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce
> the flow (
> > they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel
> in the tank
> > take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when
> you siphon a
> > tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when
it
> cycle you
> > only siphon a small surface at the time.
> >
> > Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They
> always overate
> > their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal
> filter or
> > remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a
20
> gal. tank I
> > use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with
> sensitive fin you
> > just reduce the flow
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 23:21
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
> gallon
> >
> > What about if the water temp is 74 and I have a 20 gallon bio
> wheel
> > filter for a ten gallon tank I guess there is enough oxygen. MY
> ph is
> > 7.8 and wont lower, ammonia .50 and still no nitrites or
> nitrates.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just to give an idea at 80' the water have a saturation in
> oxygen
> > of 8ppm,
> > > at below 3 ppm a fish can not live, at 3-4 ppm he will gasp
> air at
> > the
> > > surface, at 3-5 ppm it can be tolerate only for a short
> period.
> > The higher
> > > the temperature the less oxygen in the water, and for the one
> who
> > put salt
> > > in the tank, it reduce the level of saturation in oxygen than
> the
> > water can
> > > contain , usally 1 ppm less
> > >
> > > Gerard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Steve Szabo
> > > Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 22:06
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a
ten
> > gallon
> > >
> > > Ideally, you want 6-8 ppm oxygen in your water. This probably
> does
> > not
> > > mean anything to you. If your filter is sized properly for
> your
> > tank,
> > > the water turn over of 4-6 times an hour is more than
> sufficient to
> > > provide for these levels of oxygen. In this case, running
> aeration
> > as
> > > well is superfluous.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 11:03 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] How much oxygen do you need in a ten
> gallon
> > >
> > > I have communty fish and have the two things in the back that
> > shoots up
> > > water (you can tell im a rookie). Would putting a air hose
> that you
> > > usually huck up to like a gator that the mouth opens and
> closes be
> > good
> > > but not on the gator. The gator stopped working or is that
too
> much
> > > oxygen for the fish?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying,
> > thanks.
> > > 74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:>
> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><
> > ((((:>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:
> > ((((><74/`7.88.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22326 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: --bio spira---good reading
I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the group
might want to read this.

BIO SPIRA



I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater Eclipse
tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
BioSpira.



Please note...this page does not sell anything.
nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
This is purely a personal web site passing on information that others
in the aquarium hobby might find useful.


No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems associated
with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank early
with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank Syndrome"
only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the fish.
I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish and
tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...



Setup Information:
- Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
- Aquarium "safe" gravel...
- Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live plants...no
live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
- Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
Nitrite, Nitrate)
- TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
- TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
read color changes
- Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water Chemistry
Details click here-->



Daily Aquarium Diary:
- Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank. Allowed
tank filter to run for 48 hours.
Re-verified all water chemistry values.
Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
very fast.
Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values remained
constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

- Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed & refrigerated
the rest)
- Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
after handling fish

- Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
bacteria.
** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
slowly...bacteria building up

- Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
slowly

- Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
handling fish

- Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
be new BioSpira bacteria

- Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
- Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day 20)
click here-->

- Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in Ammonia
or Nitrite)
- Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
- Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia
to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate

- Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
** Nitrate goes up

- Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change

- Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
(Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
- - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing over
the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).




SUMMARY:
I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish to
the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable amounts
of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is generally
NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2 to 6
fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite spike of
less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate
daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.

I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added 10
fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a small
(less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
Nitrite...both short lived.
NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because he
was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each day...
(sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.


----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------

For more information about BioSpira...go to -->



----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------







Last updated on 01/10/2004


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> If I add on all the info :
>
> - Some Ammonia reading.
> - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> - Wash of the gravel with python
> - large water change
> - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
> - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
>
> The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
cycling, this
> tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
>
> If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
purchase Bio
> spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make
only the
> minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new
water,
> but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24
hours,
> It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because
it's
> neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the
bacteria.
> Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22327 From: Wendie Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
and have for a couple years now.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: memphisgirl39
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading


I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the group
might want to read this.

BIO SPIRA

I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater Eclipse
tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
BioSpira.

Please note...this page does not sell anything.
nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
This is purely a personal web site passing on information that others
in the aquarium hobby might find useful.

No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems associated
with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank early
with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank Syndrome"
only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the fish.
I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish and
tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...

Setup Information:
- Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
- Aquarium "safe" gravel...
- Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live plants...no
live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
- Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
Nitrite, Nitrate)
- TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
- TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
read color changes
- Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water Chemistry
Details click here-->

Daily Aquarium Diary:
- Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank. Allowed
tank filter to run for 48 hours.
Re-verified all water chemistry values.
Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
very fast.
Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values remained
constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

- Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed & refrigerated
the rest)
- Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
after handling fish

- Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
bacteria.
** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
slowly...bacteria building up

- Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
slowly

- Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
handling fish

- Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
be new BioSpira bacteria

- Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
- Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day 20)
click here-->

- Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in Ammonia
or Nitrite)
- Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
- Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia
to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate

- Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
** Nitrate goes up

- Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change

- Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
(Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
- - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing over
the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).

SUMMARY:
I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish to
the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable amounts
of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is generally
NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2 to 6
fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite spike of
less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate
daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.

I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added 10
fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a small
(less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
Nitrite...both short lived.
NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because he
was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each day...
(sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------

For more information about BioSpira...go to -->

----------------------------------------------------------
----------


Last updated on 01/10/2004

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> If I add on all the info :
>
> - Some Ammonia reading.
> - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> - Wash of the gravel with python
> - large water change
> - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
> - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
>
> The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
cycling, this
> tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
>
> If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
purchase Bio
> spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make
only the
> minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new
water,
> but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24
hours,
> It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because
it's
> neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the
bacteria.
> Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22328 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new
tank I will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in
thne new tank. I of course put in dechloramines. I can add a full
load of fish right off the start with this method. I do not have to
buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my filter
cartridges.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
> and have for a couple years now.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading
>
>
> I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the
group
> might want to read this.
>
> BIO SPIRA
>
> I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater
Eclipse
> tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
> will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
> BioSpira.
>
> Please note...this page does not sell anything.
> nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
> This is purely a personal web site passing on information that
others
> in the aquarium hobby might find useful.
>
> No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
> FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
> The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems
associated
> with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank
early
> with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank
Syndrome"
> only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
> BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the
fish.
> I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish
and
> tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
> you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
> don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...
>
> Setup Information:
> - Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
> - Aquarium "safe" gravel...
> - Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live
plants...no
> live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
> - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
> Nitrite, Nitrate)
> - TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
> - TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
> NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
> me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
> Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
> read color changes
> - Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water
Chemistry
> Details click here-->
>
> Daily Aquarium Diary:
> - Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank.
Allowed
> tank filter to run for 48 hours.
> Re-verified all water chemistry values.
> Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
> very fast.
> Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
> Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values
remained
> constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
> Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.
>
> - Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed &
refrigerated
> the rest)
> - Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
> after handling fish
>
> - Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
> bacteria.
> ** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
> slowly...bacteria building up
>
> - Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
> ** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
> slowly
>
> - Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
> ** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
> handling fish
>
> - Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
> be new BioSpira bacteria
>
> - Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
> - Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
> Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
> To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day
20)
> click here-->
>
> - Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in
Ammonia
> or Nitrite)
> - Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
> ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
> - Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia
> to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
> ** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
> ** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate
>
> - Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
> to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
> ** Nitrate goes up
>
> - Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change
>
> - Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
> (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
> - - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing
over
> the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
> Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).
>
> SUMMARY:
> I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
> a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
> Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish
to
> the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable
amounts
> of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is
generally
> NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
> readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2
to 6
> fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite
spike of
> less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
> reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
> going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate
> daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.
>
> I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
> saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
> the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added
10
> fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
> the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a
small
> (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
> Nitrite...both short lived.
> NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because
he
> was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
> chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each
day...
> (sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
> mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
> efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
> For more information about BioSpira...go to -->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Last updated on 01/10/2004
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > If I add on all the info :
> >
> > - Some Ammonia reading.
> > - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> > - Wash of the gravel with python
> > - large water change
> > - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel
thing)
> > - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
> >
> > The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
> cycling, this
> > tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
> >
> > If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
> purchase Bio
> > spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank.
Make
> only the
> > minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for
the new
> water,
> > but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket
for 24
> hours,
> > It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank,
because
> it's
> > neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed
the
> bacteria.
> > Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22329 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/11/2007
Subject: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22330 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link leads
you to what was a serious situation.

http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
escued_from_feces/

In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
http://tinyurl.com/26edpw

\\Steve//
Smith & Wesson:
The Original Point And Click Interface
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22331 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new
tank I will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in
thne new tank. I of course put in dechloramines. I can add a full
load of fish right off the start with this method. I do not have to
buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my filter
cartridges.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
> and have for a couple years now.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading
>
>
> I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the
group
> might want to read this.
>
> BIO SPIRA
>
> I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater
Eclipse
> tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
> will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
> BioSpira.
>
> Please note...this page does not sell anything.
> nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
> This is purely a personal web site passing on information that
others
> in the aquarium hobby might find useful.
>
> No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
> FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
> The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems
associated
> with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank
early
> with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank
Syndrome"
> only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
> BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the
fish.
> I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish
and
> tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
> you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
> don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...
>
> Setup Information:
> - Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
> - Aquarium "safe" gravel...
> - Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live
plants...no
> live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
> - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
> Nitrite, Nitrate)
> - TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
> - TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
> NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
> me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
> Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
> read color changes
> - Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water
Chemistry
> Details click here-->
>
> Daily Aquarium Diary:
> - Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank.
Allowed
> tank filter to run for 48 hours.
> Re-verified all water chemistry values.
> Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
> very fast.
> Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
> Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values
remained
> constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
> Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.
>
> - Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed &
refrigerated
> the rest)
> - Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
> after handling fish
>
> - Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
> bacteria.
> ** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
> slowly...bacteria building up
>
> - Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
> ** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
> slowly
>
> - Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
> ** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
> handling fish
>
> - Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
> be new BioSpira bacteria
>
> - Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
> - Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
> Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
> To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day
20)
> click here-->
>
> - Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in
Ammonia
> or Nitrite)
> - Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
> ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
> - Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia
> to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
> ** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
> ** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate
>
> - Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
> to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
> ** Nitrate goes up
>
> - Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change
>
> - Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
> (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
> - - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing
over
> the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
> Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).
>
> SUMMARY:
> I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
> a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
> Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish
to
> the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable
amounts
> of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is
generally
> NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
> readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2
to 6
> fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite
spike of
> less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
> reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
> going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate
> daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.
>
> I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
> saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
> the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added
10
> fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
> the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a
small
> (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
> Nitrite...both short lived.
> NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because
he
> was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
> chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each
day...
> (sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
> mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
> efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
> For more information about BioSpira...go to -->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Last updated on 01/10/2004
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > If I add on all the info :
> >
> > - Some Ammonia reading.
> > - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> > - Wash of the gravel with python
> > - large water change
> > - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel
thing)
> > - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
> >
> > The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
> cycling, this
> > tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
> >
> > If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
> purchase Bio
> > spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank.
Make
> only the
> > minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for
the new
> water,
> > but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket
for 24
> hours,
> > It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank,
because
> it's
> > neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed
the
> bacteria.
> > Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22332 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
So now it's time to find it and put it in your tank



Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 22:56
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the group
might want to read this.

BIO SPIRA



I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater Eclipse
tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
BioSpira.



Please note...this page does not sell anything.
nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
This is purely a personal web site passing on information that others
in the aquarium hobby might find useful.


No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems associated
with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank early
with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank Syndrome"
only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the fish.
I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish and
tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...



Setup Information:
- Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
- Aquarium "safe" gravel...
- Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live plants...no
live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
- Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
Nitrite, Nitrate)
- TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
- TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
read color changes
- Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water Chemistry
Details click here-->



Daily Aquarium Diary:
- Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank. Allowed
tank filter to run for 48 hours.
Re-verified all water chemistry values.
Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
very fast.
Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values remained
constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

- Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed & refrigerated
the rest)
- Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
after handling fish

- Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
bacteria.
** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
slowly...bacteria building up

- Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
slowly

- Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
handling fish

- Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
be new BioSpira bacteria

- Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
- Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day 20)
click here-->

- Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in Ammonia
or Nitrite)
- Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
- Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia
to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate

- Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
** Nitrate goes up

- Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change

- Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
(Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
- - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing over
the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).




SUMMARY:
I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish to
the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable amounts
of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is generally
NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2 to 6
fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite spike of
less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate
daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.

I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added 10
fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a small
(less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
Nitrite...both short lived.
NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because he
was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each day...
(sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.


----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------

For more information about BioSpira...go to -->



----------------------------------------------------------------------
----------







Last updated on 01/10/2004


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> If I add on all the info :
>
> - Some Ammonia reading.
> - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> - Wash of the gravel with python
> - large water change
> - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
> - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
>
> The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
cycling, this
> tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
>
> If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
purchase Bio
> spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make
only the
> minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new
water,
> but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24
hours,
> It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because
it's
> neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the
bacteria.
> Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22333 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
A beautifull reef creature



Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22334 From: Wendie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Sometimes I will run a second filter on another established tank for about a week and then use it on a new tank along with the BioSpira.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading


In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:35
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new
tank I will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in
thne new tank. I of course put in dechloramines. I can add a full
load of fish right off the start with this method. I do not have to
buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my filter
cartridges.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
> and have for a couple years now.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading
>
>
> I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the
group
> might want to read this.
>
> BIO SPIRA
>
> I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater
Eclipse
> tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
> will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
> BioSpira.
>
> Please note...this page does not sell anything.
> nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
> This is purely a personal web site passing on information that
others
> in the aquarium hobby might find useful.
>
> No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
> FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
> The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems
associated
> with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank
early
> with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank
Syndrome"
> only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
> BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the
fish.
> I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish
and
> tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
> you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
> don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...
>
> Setup Information:
> - Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
> - Aquarium "safe" gravel...
> - Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live
plants...no
> live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
> - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
> Nitrite, Nitrate)
> - TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
> - TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
> NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
> me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
> Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
> read color changes
> - Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water
Chemistry
> Details click here-->
>
> Daily Aquarium Diary:
> - Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank.
Allowed
> tank filter to run for 48 hours.
> Re-verified all water chemistry values.
> Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
> very fast.
> Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
> Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values
remained
> constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
> Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.
>
> - Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed &
refrigerated
> the rest)
> - Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
> after handling fish
>
> - Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
> bacteria.
> ** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
> slowly...bacteria building up
>
> - Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
> ** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
> slowly
>
> - Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
> ** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
> handling fish
>
> - Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
> be new BioSpira bacteria
>
> - Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
> - Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
> Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
> To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day
20)
> click here-->
>
> - Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in
Ammonia
> or Nitrite)
> - Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
> ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
> - Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia
> to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
> ** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
> ** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate
>
> - Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
> to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
> ** Nitrate goes up
>
> - Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change
>
> - Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
> (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
> - - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing
over
> the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
> Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).
>
> SUMMARY:
> I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
> a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
> Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish
to
> the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable
amounts
> of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is
generally
> NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
> readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2
to 6
> fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite
spike of
> less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
> reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
> going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate
> daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.
>
> I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
> saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
> the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added
10
> fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
> the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a
small
> (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
> Nitrite...both short lived.
> NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because
he
> was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
> chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each
day...
> (sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
> mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
> efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
> For more information about BioSpira...go to -->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Last updated on 01/10/2004
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > If I add on all the info :
> >
> > - Some Ammonia reading.
> > - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> > - Wash of the gravel with python
> > - large water change
> > - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel
thing)
> > - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
> >
> > The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
> cycling, this
> > tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
> >
> > If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
> purchase Bio
> > spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank.
Make
> only the
> > minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for
the new
> water,
> > but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket
for 24
> hours,
> > It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank,
because
> it's
> > neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed
the
> bacteria.
> > Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22335 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading
That’s interesting. I set up and re-set up hospital and fry tanks all the
time by just putting a used filter on the new tank…no transfer of gravel.
I’ve never had an ammonia or nitrite problem, not even initially. Maybe
because it’s not a “full load” of fish?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading



In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:35
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new
tank I will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in
thne new tank. I of course put in dechloramines. I can add a full
load of fish right off the start with this method. I do not have to
buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my filter
cartridges.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
> and have for a couple years now.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading
>
>
> I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the
group
> might want to read this.
>
> BIO SPIRA
>
> I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater
Eclipse
> tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
> will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
> BioSpira.
>
> Please note...this page does not sell anything.
> nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
> This is purely a personal web site passing on information that
others
> in the aquarium hobby might find useful.
>
> No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
> FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
> The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems
associated
> with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank
early
> with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank
Syndrome"
> only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
> BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the
fish.
> I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish
and
> tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
> you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
> don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...
>
> Setup Information:
> - Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
> - Aquarium "safe" gravel...
> - Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live
plants...no
> live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
> - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
> Nitrite, Nitrate)
> - TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
> - TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
> NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
> me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
> Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
> read color changes
> - Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water
Chemistry
> Details click here-->
>
> Daily Aquarium Diary:
> - Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank.
Allowed
> tank filter to run for 48 hours.
> Re-verified all water chemistry values.
> Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
> very fast.
> Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
> Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values
remained
> constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
> Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.
>
> - Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed &
refrigerated
> the rest)
> - Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
> after handling fish
>
> - Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
> bacteria.
> ** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
> slowly...bacteria building up
>
> - Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
> ** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
> slowly
>
> - Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
> ** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
> handling fish
>
> - Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
> be new BioSpira bacteria
>
> - Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
> - Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
> Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
> To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day
20)
> click here-->
>
> - Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in
Ammonia
> or Nitrite)
> - Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
> ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
> - Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia
> to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
> ** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
> ** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate
>
> - Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
> to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
> ** Nitrate goes up
>
> - Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change
>
> - Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
> (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
> - - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing
over
> the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
> Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).
>
> SUMMARY:
> I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
> a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
> Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish
to
> the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable
amounts
> of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is
generally
> NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
> readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2
to 6
> fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite
spike of
> less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
> reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
> going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate
> daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.
>
> I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
> saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
> the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added
10
> fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
> the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a
small
> (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
> Nitrite...both short lived.
> NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because
he
> was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
> chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each
day...
> (sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
> mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
> efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
> For more information about BioSpira...go to -->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Last updated on 01/10/2004
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > If I add on all the info :
> >
> > - Some Ammonia reading.
> > - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> > - Wash of the gravel with python
> > - large water change
> > - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel
thing)
> > - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
> >
> > The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
> cycling, this
> > tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
> >
> > If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
> purchase Bio
> > spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank.
Make
> only the
> > minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for
the new
> water,
> > but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket
for 24
> hours,
> > It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank,
because
> it's
> > neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed
the
> bacteria.
> > Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22336 From: Memrie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22337 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading
Ya it's not full load

Nothing magical in the cycling of a tank. You need X amount of bacteria to
proceed Y amount of nitrogen compound.

Let's say than the gravel contain 75% of the one need for a full load , and
the filter 25% if your load is at 25% or less no problem to use only the
filter.

Now the bacteria double their number in 24 to 48 hours. But for do so they
need a good substrate and food . food is the key here, because the
nitrobacter will not have the quantity of nitrite they need to multiply
before the nitrosomonas are in sufficient quantity to produce enough.

Now for an hospital tank, the cycling is maybe useless, especially if you
use antibacterial chemical or antibiotic.

You have different way to cycle a tank, some method are more dangerous or
risky than other.

If I was a breeder I'm sure I will have tank ready when the time come.
Emergency hospital tank is a different story.

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 09:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

That’s interesting. I set up and re-set up hospital and fry tanks all the
time by just putting a used filter on the new tank…no transfer of gravel.
I’ve never had an ammonia or nitrite problem, not even initially. Maybe
because it’s not a “full load” of fish?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading



In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:35
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new
tank I will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in
thne new tank. I of course put in dechloramines. I can add a full
load of fish right off the start with this method. I do not have to
buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my filter
cartridges.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> I use it all the time when setting up a new tank
> and have for a couple years now.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 10:55 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading
>
>
> I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the
group
> might want to read this.
>
> BIO SPIRA
>
> I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater
Eclipse
> tank in my work office. The results were amazing! This web page
> will give you the details and the summary of my experience with
> BioSpira.
>
> Please note...this page does not sell anything.
> nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
> This is purely a personal web site passing on information that
others
> in the aquarium hobby might find useful.
>
> No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD
> FISH IMMEDIATELY!!
> The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems
associated
> with establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank
early
> with fish...the dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank
Syndrome"
> only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of
> BioSpira to the 12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the
fish.
> I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish
and
> tank care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide
> you with enough details to answer most questions, but if they
> don't....please feel free to E-mail me at website1402@...
>
> Setup Information:
> - Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
> - Aquarium "safe" gravel...
> - Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live
plants...no
> live rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
> - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia,
> Nitrite, Nitrate)
> - TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
> - TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
> NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for
> me...harder to read) "test strip" kits.
> Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to
> read color changes
> - Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water
Chemistry
> Details click here-->
>
> Daily Aquarium Diary:
> - Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank.
Allowed
> tank filter to run for 48 hours.
> Re-verified all water chemistry values.
> Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and
> very fast.
> Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees
> Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH, pH...(NOTE: these values
remained
> constant from Day 1 through Day 25)
> Water tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.
>
> - Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed &
refrigerated
> the rest)
> - Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water
> after handling fish
>
> - Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira
> bacteria.
> ** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
> slowly...bacteria building up
>
> - Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
> ** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more
> slowly
>
> - Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> - Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
> ** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
> ** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after
> handling fish
>
> - Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to
> be new BioSpira bacteria
>
> - Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
> - Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
> Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite)
> To see chart of all water chemistry values (Day 1 through Day
20)
> click here-->
>
> - Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in
Ammonia
> or Nitrite)
> - Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
> ammonia... small spike in Nitrite)
> - Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in
ammonia
> to "0"...drop in Nitrite)
> ** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
> ** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate
>
> - Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes
> to "0"...Nitrite goes to "0")
> ** Nitrate goes up
>
> - Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays
> at "0"...Nitrite stays at "0")
> ** Nitrate Same
>
> - Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
> ** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change
>
> - Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry
> (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite "0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
> - - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing
over
> the next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
> Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).
>
> SUMMARY:
> I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing
> a "Fishless Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted
> Nitrogen Cycle. Making matters worse, I actually added more fish
to
> the tank on Day 6. Although I had not seen ANY noticeable
amounts
> of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding fish this early is
generally
> NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from the daily water
> readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from 2
to 6
> fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite
spike of
> less than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never
> reoccurred. This Eclipse tank is still in my office and is still
> going well. I continued to check pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and
Nitrate
> daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.
>
> I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon
> saltwater tank. After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let
> the tank run for 48 hours, re-checked the water, and then added
10
> fish... and one full packet of BioSpira. Regular monitoring of
> the new tank revealed similarly great results. He reported a
small
> (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a similarly small spike in
> Nitrite...both short lived.
> NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because
he
> was not interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL
> chemicals, and he performed his tests at different times each
day...
> (sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels
> mine closely enough that I believe there is no difference in the
> efficacy of BioSpira in salt or fresh water.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
> For more information about BioSpira...go to -->
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> ----------
>
>
> Last updated on 01/10/2004
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > If I add on all the info :
> >
> > - Some Ammonia reading.
> > - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> > - Wash of the gravel with python
> > - large water change
> > - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel
thing)
> > - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
> >
> > The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
> cycling, this
> > tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
> >
> > If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
> purchase Bio
> > spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank.
Make
> only the
> > minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for
the new
> water,
> > but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket
for 24
> hours,
> > It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank,
because
> it's
> > neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed
the
> bacteria.
> > Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22338 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
dreammaker2623 was suggesting to use only the collects organics of a filter
pads for a full load tank.

Here the problems I found , when I qualify it of dangerous


"I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a new tank I
will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in the new tank."

- So he introduce mainly organics, and only few nitrogen bacteria


"I of course put in dechloramines."

- I need more clarification here, if it's means put it in the tank, it
will remove the food the bacteria need to multiply


" I can add a full load of fish right off the start with this method. I do
not have to buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria on my
filter cartridges. "

- how can the tank can reach the full load capacity when the filter, the
gravel and other bacteria substrate is just starting to setup.


Using a full cycled filter and using only some seed from an other one is
totally different .

But the method of rinse old filter is a very good start. But it's just a
start.

Putting a full fish load of fish in a non cycled tank is not some thing
recomandable for beginer, and expert will not do so too

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 09:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22339 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
I've been successful with moving a filter from an established tank + having
my substrate be 1/2 new gravel and 1/2 gravel from an established tank.
Twice I immediatly added approx 1/2 of my planned fish, then add more over
the next couple of weeks. The other time I was setting up a divided 10 gal
for 3 male Bettas and added all 3 of them at the same time. I check my water
parameters every other day for 7 - 10 days, then go to my weekly routine
with the tank. I've never seen a problem with my numbers and have never had
to do an unplanned water change.

Donna


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading


In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22340 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Donna, I do exactly the same way you describe. I put the new gravel in the
bottom and the old one on top. If I have time before put fish I will add 1
ml of ammonia and check what happen, usually after 12 hours the ammonia is
gone, few nitrite , but they will be gone also after an other 12 hours.

Since I'm know a fan of planted tank, I like to use old tank gravel ,
especially the one from non planted tank, it contain a lot of good thing for
the plants


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 10:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading

I've been successful with moving a filter from an established tank + having
my substrate be 1/2 new gravel and 1/2 gravel from an established tank.
Twice I immediatly added approx 1/2 of my planned fish, then add more over
the next couple of weeks. The other time I was setting up a divided 10 gal
for 3 male Bettas and added all 3 of them at the same time. I check my water

parameters every other day for 7 - 10 days, then go to my weekly routine
with the tank. I've never seen a problem with my numbers and have never had
to do an unplanned water change.

Donna


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: --bio spira---good reading


In the case were I suggest it she have no other choice, the fish are already
in the tank.

Your method is very dangerous, filter pads collect organics, they culture
mainly heterotrophic bacteria ,who break down the organics not the
nitrifying bacteria who are autotrophic bacteria. autotrophic bacteria will
be present, but heterotrophs will be in larger quantity

If you want to use this method you have to use gravel from an other tank ,
gravel who have been only partially rinse in safe water, and even do with
this method I have a peak who disappear after few day.

I made serious study on introducing full load fish in a new tank, the only
time I have a full success, it's when I combine not the filter water, but
all the filter from an other tank, and the gravel too and a lot of old drift
wood coming from an other tank , the drift wood with his porosity act like
the life rock in the salt tank.

Gérard




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22341 From: Wendie Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com


That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22342 From: Traci Swatek-Rice Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Hi Mary,

I started out "rescuing" a betta from the tiny, filthy
cups they live in. I now have 10 tanks in my small house.
I don't regret it. Each one has a distinct personality.
I also have a rescued boxer and cat. My other boxer I
just got because I love her. :)

There are some very knowledgable people on this list that
can help you with setting up and prep work if you do think
aquatics is they way for you to go.

Good luck on your next "save"!

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


> Hi, my name is Mary, and I live in the midwest with my two cats, Tom
> and Gabby. I've reached a point where I'm considering adopting
> another pet, but am not quite sure what yet. I am a huge animal
> lover, so picking one out of several possibilities is really hard for
> me! That is sort of why I'm here. I'm researching different types of
> pets, their habitats, care & maintenance, etc., before I actually move
> forward with an adoption.
>
> That said, if any of you can recommend generic books on aquatic pets,
> that would be great! I have loads of time to read information.
> Otherwise, I'm just gonna hang out here and read what I can about
> aquatic pets and maybe ask questions if I have any. Thanks for having
> me in the group!
>
> --Mary
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22343 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
You can get it at http://DrsFosterSmith.com and you can also go to
http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp and on the left
side, there is a little box for "Fine A Marineland Retailer In Your Area".
Any retailer can order it for you if they don't carry if full time. This
would save you the shipping charges that you would have to pay through
DrsFosterSmith.com.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 7:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

So now it's time to find it and put it in your tank

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 22:56 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the group might want
to read this.

BIO SPIRA

I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater Eclipse tank in
my work office. The results were amazing! This web page will give you the
details and the summary of my experience with BioSpira.

Please note...this page does not sell anything.
nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
This is purely a personal web site passing on information that others in the
aquarium hobby might find useful.

No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD FISH
IMMEDIATELY!!
The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems associated with
establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank early with fish...the
dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank Syndrome"
only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of BioSpira to the
12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the fish.
I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish and tank
care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide you with enough
details to answer most questions, but if they don't....please feel free to
E-mail me at website1402@... <mailto:website1402%40yahoo.com>

Setup Information:
- Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
- Aquarium "safe" gravel...
- Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live plants...no live
rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
- Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate)
- TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
- TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for me...harder to
read) "test strip" kits.
Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to read color changes
- Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water Chemistry
Details click here-->

Daily Aquarium Diary:
- Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank. Allowed tank
filter to run for 48 hours.
Re-verified all water chemistry values.
Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and very fast.
Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH,
pH...(NOTE: these values remained constant from Day 1 through Day 25) Water
tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

- Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed & refrigerated the
rest)
- Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water after handling fish

- Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira bacteria.
** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
slowly...bacteria building up

- Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more slowly

- Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after handling fish

- Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to be new BioSpira
bacteria

- Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
- Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite) To see chart of all water chemistry values
(Day 1 through Day 20) click here-->

- Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in Ammonia or
Nitrite)
- Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia... small
spike in Nitrite)
- Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia to
"0"...drop in Nitrite)
** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate

- Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes to "0"...Nitrite
goes to "0")
** Nitrate goes up

- Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays at "0"...Nitrite
stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays at "0"...Nitrite
stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change

- Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite
"0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
- - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing over the
next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).

SUMMARY:
I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing a "Fishless
Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted Nitrogen Cycle. Making
matters worse, I actually added more fish to the tank on Day 6. Although I
had not seen ANY noticeable amounts of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding
fish this early is generally NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from
the daily water readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from
2 to 6
fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite spike of less
than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never reoccurred. This Eclipse
tank is still in my office and is still going well. I continued to check pH,
Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.

I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon saltwater tank.
After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let the tank run for 48 hours,
re-checked the water, and then added 10 fish... and one full packet of
BioSpira. Regular monitoring of the new tank revealed similarly great
results. He reported a small (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a
similarly small spike in Nitrite...both short lived.
NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because he was not
interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL chemicals, and he
performed his tests at different times each day...
(sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels mine closely
enough that I believe there is no difference in the efficacy of BioSpira in
salt or fresh water.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------

For more information about BioSpira...go to -->

----------------------------------------------------------
----------


Last updated on 01/10/2004

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> If I add on all the info :
>
> - Some Ammonia reading.
> - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> - Wash of the gravel with python
> - large water change
> - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
> - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
>
> The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
cycling, this
> tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
>
> If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
purchase Bio
> spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make
only the
> minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new
water,
> but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24
hours,
> It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because
it's
> neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the
bacteria.
> Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
>
> Gérard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/800 - Release Date: 5/11/2007
7:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22344 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: --bio spira---good reading
Lenny you are lucky to have Bio Spira in US. Here in Canada the game is not
the same, it's the Hagen ruling here, Hagen is the major supplier of pet
shop, so if you want to open a pet shop you need to open an account with
Hagen, and it's Hagen who decide what you need, or else no account open, I
try many years ago to open a fish store, Hagen told me directly "If you
don't sell our cat and dog product we will not sell you "

So small owner of pet shop after they have fulfilled the requirement of
Hagen order, have no budget to buy other place.

Of course you have some mega center not affiliated with the big US chain,
they sell other stuff than Hagen, but they hire only employee who don't care
at all of their job, so it's useless to ask to order a product.

But think change they open a Big Al's and guest what, I see finally Sea Chem
products, Hikary food, better light system, all good stuff than the Monarchy
of Hagen do not allow in the small store.

If it was not of their Aquaclear filter life will better without Hagen here


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 11:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

You can get it at http://DrsFosterSmith.com and you can also go to
http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp and on the left
side, there is a little box for "Fine A Marineland Retailer In Your Area".
Any retailer can order it for you if they don't carry if full time. This
would save you the shipping charges that you would have to pay through
DrsFosterSmith.com.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 7:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

So now it's time to find it and put it in your tank

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 22:56 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] --bio spira---good reading

I think you are right. I looked up bio spira. I thought the group might want
to read this.

BIO SPIRA

I used BioSpira when setting up a new 12 gallon Freshwater Eclipse tank in
my work office. The results were amazing! This web page will give you the
details and the summary of my experience with BioSpira.

Please note...this page does not sell anything.
nor is it in anyway affiliated with MarineLand Labs or BioSpira.
This is purely a personal web site passing on information that others in the
aquarium hobby might find useful.

No noticeable "NEW TANK SYNDROME!!! NO FISHLESS CYCLE!!! ADD FISH
IMMEDIATELY!!
The use of BioSpira completely negated the usual problems associated with
establishing a new fish tank. Despite loading the tank early with fish...the
dreaded (and often written about) "New Tank Syndrome"
only briefly reared it's ugly head. I added "1/2 packet" of BioSpira to the
12 gallon tank, 8 hours prior to adding the fish.
I measured the water quality daily, performed minimal basic fish and tank
care, and fed the fish. The details below should provide you with enough
details to answer most questions, but if they don't....please feel free to
E-mail me at website1402@... <mailto:website1402%40yahoo.com>

Setup Information:
- Eclipse 12 gallon tank...(with power filter & bio-wheel)
- Aquarium "safe" gravel...
- Plastic plants and "safe" tank decorations...(no live plants...no live
rock...nothing to alter water chemistry)
- Aquarium Pharmaceuticals "test tube" test kits...(pH, Ammonia, Nitrite,
Nitrate)
- TetraTest "test tube" water hardness test kit...(kH and gH)
- TetraTest Chlorine strip test kit
NOTE: I prefer "tube" kits to the more convenient (but for me...harder to
read) "test strip" kits.
Kits using "test tubes" give very distinctive easy to read color changes
- Filled tank with "conditioned" tap water...(for Tap Water Chemistry
Details click here-->

Daily Aquarium Diary:
- Initial Setup: Put conditioned tap water into the tank. Allowed tank
filter to run for 48 hours.
Re-verified all water chemistry values.
Water clear...filter clean...bio wheel turning smoothly and very fast.
Temperature kept at constant 76 degrees Water tested EVERY day for gH, kH,
pH...(NOTE: these values remained constant from Day 1 through Day 25) Water
tested EVERY day for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

- Pre-Fish: Added 1/2 packet of BioSpira...(resealed & refrigerated the
rest)
- Day 1: Added two Tiger Barbs
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to the water after handling fish

- Day 2: Fed fish...checked water chemistry...(no change)
** Water slightly cloudy..(milky)...must be BioSpira bacteria.
** Bio Wheel turning gray...spins more
slowly...bacteria building up

- Day 3: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 4: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water cloudiness disappeared...water clear
** Bio Wheel VERY gray in color...spins much more slowly

- Day 5: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
- Day 6: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Added 3 more Tiger Barbs & 2 Cory Cats
** Added the 2nd 1/2 packet of BioSpira
** Added MarineLand Labs "Stress Coat" to water after handling fish

- Day 7: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Water slightly cloudy again...(milky)...assumed to be new BioSpira
bacteria

- Day 8: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (small Ammonia jump)
- Day 9: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (2nd small jump in
Ammonia..small jump in Nitrite) To see chart of all water chemistry values
(Day 1 through Day 20) click here-->

- Day 10: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change in Ammonia or
Nitrite)
- Day 11: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia... small
spike in Nitrite)
- Day 12: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (decrease in ammonia to
"0"...drop in Nitrite)
** Water very clear...(milkiness gone).
** First noticeable amounts of Nitrate

- Day 13: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia goes to "0"...Nitrite
goes to "0")
** Nitrate goes up

- Day 14: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays at "0"...Nitrite
stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 15: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia stays at "0"...Nitrite
stays at "0")
** Nitrate Same

- Day 16: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (no change)
** Vacuumed gravel...3 gallon water change

- Day 17-20: Fed fish...checked water chemistry (Ammonia "0"..Nitrite
"0"...very slight increase in Nitrate)
- - The chart ends with Day 20...but subsequent periodic testing over the
next 2 weeks indicated no changes in Ammonia or Nitrite.
Nitrate increased slowly (as it should).

SUMMARY:
I violated most of the known rules for new tanks by not doing a "Fishless
Cycle", nor going through an adequate fish prompted Nitrogen Cycle. Making
matters worse, I actually added more fish to the tank on Day 6. Although I
had not seen ANY noticeable amounts of ammonia or nitrate by Day 6, adding
fish this early is generally NOT a good idea. However, as you can see from
the daily water readings, increasing the fish load in the tank by 300% (from
2 to 6
fish) resulted in a minor and short-lived Ammonia / Nitrite spike of less
than 1ppm. This small spike went away and never reoccurred. This Eclipse
tank is still in my office and is still going well. I continued to check pH,
Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate daily for the next 3 weeks. No problems.

I have since assisted a friend in setting up a new 50 gallon saltwater tank.
After doing the usual setup and pre-work, we let the tank run for 48 hours,
re-checked the water, and then added 10 fish... and one full packet of
BioSpira. Regular monitoring of the new tank revealed similarly great
results. He reported a small (less than 1ppm) spike in Ammonia and a
similarly small spike in Nitrite...both short lived.
NOTE: I did not add the daily chart detail for his tank because he was not
interested in performing rigorous daily testing for ALL chemicals, and he
performed his tests at different times each day...
(sometimes skipping a day). His experience however, parallels mine closely
enough that I believe there is no difference in the efficacy of BioSpira in
salt or fresh water.

----------------------------------------------------------
----------

For more information about BioSpira...go to -->

----------------------------------------------------------
----------


Last updated on 01/10/2004

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> If I add on all the info :
>
> - Some Ammonia reading.
> - No nitrate and nitrate reading
> - Wash of the gravel with python
> - large water change
> - ammonia who came at 0 at one time ( after the bio wheel thing)
> - Your Ammonia is only at 0,50 ppm
>
> The conclusion comes clearer, this tank is not in the ammonia
cycling, this
> tank restarts the cycling every time you clean it.
>
> If you want save your fry (if it's still possible) , go and
purchase Bio
> spira ASAP, and do not touch anymore the bottom of the tank. Make
only the
> minimum water change need, and use chlorine neutralizer for the new
water,
> but use only the minimum dose, and let the water in a bucket for 24
hours,
> It's not good to have the chlorine eliminator in the tank, because
it's
> neutralize also the ammonia, and the Bio spira need it to feed the
bacteria.
> Don't care about the algae. They will disappear by themselves.
>
> Gérard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.8/800 - Release Date: 5/11/2007
7:34 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22345 From: Karen M Smith Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE
looks like a lettuce nudibranch(sp) a sea slug

Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote: A beautifull reef creature

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 23:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] WHAT IS THE NEW PICTURE THAT WAS PUT ON THE FIRST PAGE

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22346 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Look like they fall in a fluidized sand filter, very lucky it's more
efficient than quicksand suck people down



Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 05:12
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link leads
you to what was a serious situation.

http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
escued_from_feces/

In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
http://tinyurl.com/26edpw

\\Steve//
Smith & Wesson:
The Original Point And Click Interface


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22347 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
One can find a lot of misinformation in books as well. All too often the authors just copy from one another, with no real experience with the situation in question, or with the animals they are writing about. There is a fairly common expression in some of the groups I hang with in real life--"The fish did not read the book."--which covers this misinformation.

It never ceases to amaze me that people jump into this hobby with absolutely no knowledge of what lays ahead of them. At this point, searching the Internet is not of much use, since these people cannot discern the good information from the bad. A trip to the library is probably warranted, since it does not cost anything, and there are books there about aquariums and aquarium fish. Innes, while pretty old is as good a place to start as any in the library. In his _Exotic Aquarium Fishes_ he gives a method of setting up aquaria that is quite good. While there are many editions of this book, I like the 19th edition, revised, the best.

The Joseph Levine book should be another good starting point. For his _ The Complete Fishkeeper: Everything Aquarium Fishes Need to Stay Happy, Healthy, and Alive_ he interviewed aquarists to learn how they did things and also kept fish himself (as did Innes, who also published a magazine called "The Aquarium" for many years). I never got myself a copy of this book, but I am going by the opinion of others from back when it was published (1991).

Currently, you have the Baensch _Aquarium Atlas_ series which focuses more on the fish than the actual keeping of the fish, but it has a good section of explaining how to set up a tank, and whose fish descriptions give a hobbyist a good base knowledge on what they need to do to keep them.

Mike Wickham wrote the original _The Complete Idiot's Guide to Freshwater Aquariums_ and is an avid aquarist, as well as having worked in and owned LFS's in his career. This book is not available as a new book. One needs to find it used.

One can find all of these books used. The only one that is currently available as a new book is the Baensch series.

There are a number of other good books out there. Some are general, trying to cover all of aquarium keeping, while others are more specific, covering a specific group, family, genus, or species of fish, or a specific topic such as diseases or water quality. Some are an easy read, while others have a certain perquisite of knowledge for the topic(s) covered. One bit of wisdom you should pick up from any o these books is that there is no easy path to follow to keeping fish. It requires a certain level of knowledge before hand, and a lot of sweat, blood and tears (hey, what a great name for a rock band) to become successful.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 7:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website)

Lenny I gone tell you exactly what I found, you have many people on many
groups, who have never purchase a book, the bought a tank put fish and after
ask themselves what they do wrong, I strongly suggest to buy few book, on
the general subject, why because it give a general idea about the hobby in a
more easy presentation than extract from website, after when the new
hobbyist will have some experience, he can start to read info left and
right, If you put your self in the shoes of a beginner, and read on the
subject of cycling, it can be very confusing. I remember when I was 12 years
old in 1972, I bought my first tank and at the same time my first book, and
not too long after a book from Axerold , at the time it was the standard,
today you will qualify it as crap. Crap certainly not because it give me the
way to achieve some success at the time and continue in the hobby. I found
Internet a good way for make some research, especially to share them, But I
don't find yet something who will be a good general reading for a beginner.
Talking about it probably one of the best book I will recommend for a
beginner is something like "Fish healt" by Chriss Andrew, it's a very cheap
book, who give good idea about some chemical and biological important
concept, the book is also easy to read.

Gerard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 18:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website ( was peroxide)

I think you have to read the entire page to keep things in context and
benefit from the other writers insights and banter. It's just like out
here. You can't take a single paragraph of a multi-email thread and take it
out of context of the entire thread.

I personally would use the salt and heat method for combating Ich over any
of the chemical remedies sold at the pet stores. Of course, salt is a
chemical too but we know more about it (the pro's and con's) and can control
the dosage better than relying on the ingredients of a bottle of
parasiticide.

Technically, someone could come along to the AquaticLife website and dissect
and disparage much of the information contained in all of the pages of the
website but it does not mean the website is not a good resource.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] THE KRIP website ( was peroxide)

Lenny I check your web site in the first page I read
http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html
<http://www.thekrib.com/Diseases/ich.html>

I see enough mistake to make me worry about the rest , I will check again
latter, First mistake, you do not treat all case of ich the same way, I
really like also the place where the guy say to not read the label and use
is recipe, I guess the guy who write it have no idea of the minimum level of
malachite need to be effective, and the one where it came poisonous .

Gerard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 17:26 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

True, but I (and I'm sure you) can recognize something that is written with
proper references, pictures, etc., compared to something that is
copy/pasted. But even if it is copy/pasted, if it's from a reliable site,
it's still good info.

The HP and algae treatments are covered in many sections of
http://www.thekrib.com <http://www.thekrib.com> which has been on the net
since 1994, with copies of original threads from rec.aquaria newsgroups and
bulletin boards... the early days of the forums that are common today.

Besides, not all books are reliable. I've seen lots of books that contain
crappy info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Google it ????? , may be I'm the only one who buy book on those day . the
problem is not to find info. It's to find info who have contain and sense,
to much people paste and copy wrong idea from other site.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Envoyé : 10 mai 2007 15:09 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

It kills other algae's too, if spot treated. I've used it in a turkey baster
to squirt right onto some hair algae a while back and the next day, the
algae was dead and gone. I caught it early enough that I was able to use
spot treatment and the HP did not harm the fish at all... as far as I can
tell. If you Google "hydrogen peroxide algae treatment", you will find
thousands of fish sites that have threads or articles concerning HP and
algae.

I knew about using it as a way to increase O2 as a temporary measure also.
I forgot to mention that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Peroxyde in the tank (was : Used Tank)

Lenny, Hydrogen Peroxide is use mainly in tank with fish. Not only for algae
problem. They use it also for temporary realise fish who are suffocating of
lack of oxygen, Every Algae have a degree of oxidation than they can
tolerate. H2o2 ( a medium oxidation agent ) is good only to kill the Brown
Algae, after red will appear, you will use ozone, now it's the green who
will come, it's a continuous game, until you realize than you don't treat
algae with chemical.

. HP is actually dosed into inhabited tanks for certain algae issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22348 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
I had to get stabillity. You think thats just as good. Its a bacteria
you put in the refrig. too.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22349 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
""" The fish did not read the book."--""


Steeve not only fish, I use this expression every day

I suspect than every book or web site who talk about fish description copy
from each other, with over 23,000 species of fish it's hard to know all
them. I use also Baensch book as referral, actually I start to study German
to understand the one I have available only in German. It's funny to see so
much disparity in the Baensch and Axerold book.

What is important for a beginner it's to understand than keep fish is not
like keep a dog, they have to learn some knowledge, fish live in a totally
different environment than us or dog, so when I suggest to read a book it's
only a start, after read one I'm sure they will have some questions, and
there it gone start their learning path. " Hope it's clear with my English "

What is important is people have to stop to mass murder fish. The
achievement of a good aquarist is not to keep the fish alive it's to make
them thrive. We have too much post , (not only on this group) about dying
fish for a lack of understanding fundamental aquarist concept. You don't
treat a sick fish, you don't make him sick first


Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22350 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Many people in the aquarium Hobby are not surprised to see inaccuracies in an
Axelrod book : )
Ask around some time at a fish conference.

"I have available only in German. It's funny to see so
much disparity in the Baensch and Axerold book. "




************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22351 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Maryland reseller in Memphis.

Hollywood Pet Star
1200 Stateline Rd.
Southaven, MS 38671
Phone: (662) 393-3327

Bob's Tropical
2944 Covington Pike
Memphis, TN 38128
Phone: (901) 385-2904
Fax: (901) 385-0281

Hollywood Pet Star
3355 Austin Peay
Memphis, TN 38128
Phone: (901) 869-3355

2. House of Tropicals
3659 Millbranch
Memphis, TN 38116
Phone: (901) 396-2088

Hollywood Pet Star
2648 Broad St.
Memphis, TN 38112
Phone: (901) 452-2474

Something Fishy
1658 Whitten Rd
Memphis, TN 38134
Phone: (901) 371-2223

Hollywood Pet Star
6765 Stage Rd.
Bartlett, TN 38134
Phone: (901) 382-8002

Hollywood Pet Star
5827 Winchester Rd.
Memphis, TN 38115
Phone: (901) 360-0066


Hollywood Pet Star
2015 Exeter
Germantown, TN 38138
Phone: (901) 757-1077


Kermit's Reef
8551 Macon Rd.
Memphis, TN 38018
Phone: (901) 755-8033
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22352 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Inaccuracy in what the name ????? it's a long time I do not care about
the name of a fish, I put 1000 trout in my lake last week , this simple
species have 11 taxonomy name an more then 30 common name something to make
Linnaeus turn in is coffin


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Deenerz@...
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 15:33
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE
KRIB we...

Many people in the aquarium Hobby are not surprised to see inaccuracies in
an
Axelrod book : )
Ask around some time at a fish conference.

"I have available only in German. It's funny to see so
much disparity in the Baensch and Axerold book. "




************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22353 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
THANK YOU....I called most of these places and they no longer sell it
there. I wonder why?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Maryland reseller in Memphis.
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 1200 Stateline Rd.
> Southaven, MS 38671
> Phone: (662) 393-3327
>
> Bob's Tropical
> 2944 Covington Pike
> Memphis, TN 38128
> Phone: (901) 385-2904
> Fax: (901) 385-0281
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 3355 Austin Peay
> Memphis, TN 38128
> Phone: (901) 869-3355
>
> 2. House of Tropicals
> 3659 Millbranch
> Memphis, TN 38116
> Phone: (901) 396-2088
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 2648 Broad St.
> Memphis, TN 38112
> Phone: (901) 452-2474
>
> Something Fishy
> 1658 Whitten Rd
> Memphis, TN 38134
> Phone: (901) 371-2223
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 6765 Stage Rd.
> Bartlett, TN 38134
> Phone: (901) 382-8002
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 5827 Winchester Rd.
> Memphis, TN 38115
> Phone: (901) 360-0066
>
>
> Hollywood Pet Star
> 2015 Exeter
> Germantown, TN 38138
> Phone: (901) 757-1077
>
>
> Kermit's Reef
> 8551 Macon Rd.
> Memphis, TN 38018
> Phone: (901) 755-8033
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22354 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
You have to try all them, as for the reason I think I have a good idea why .

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 16:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

THANK YOU....I called most of these places and they no longer sell it
there. I wonder why?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22355 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Why?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> You have to try all them, as for the reason I think I have a good
idea why .
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 16:42
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
>
> THANK YOU....I called most of these places and they no longer sell
it
> there. I wonder why?
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22356 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Memphisgirl,

I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when you
asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22357 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0. The also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies and mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems to be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at least the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very long time since I have kept anyplaties.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like

mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22358 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to evaluate
the product ????

If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email address of
some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist and
experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product and are
very happy with the results .

The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be in bad
situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be done for
free with some advance planning . And you have also the price believer, who
will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do the same
than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Memphisgirl,

I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when you
asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22359 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Maybe I should restate what I said before. I rince the filter
cartridges in the new tank being set up. Not with cartridges that
are filthy but are cycled with bacteris. I make sure that the tanks
are healthy and not any sick fish in them. On a 20 gallon tank I
might rince the filters from a 55, a 29 and a coup.e of 20 gallon
tanks, plus I leave "dirty" filter cartridges from one of the other
tanks in the new filter. I hve tested for ammonia,nitrites and
nitrates with out having ammonia or nitrite spikes. Also I make sure
to not over feed the fish especially during the first few days. The
other thing that I forgot to mention is that I put plenty of live
healthy true aquatic plants in the tanks(this will also add the good
bacteria. I probably have set up 2 dozen tanks in this manner with
out any problems. Maybe I have been lucky but I think that with over
55 years experience raising tropical fish and having been athe
president of an aquarium club (with over 50 members) that I do have
some knowledge of what I am doing.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> dreammaker2623 was suggesting to use only the collects organics of
a filter
> pads for a full load tank.
>
> Here the problems I found , when I qualify it of dangerous
>
>
> "I have several healthy tanks set up and running. When I set up a
new tank I
> will take all of the filter cartridges and rince them well in the
new tank."
>
> - So he introduce mainly organics, and only few nitrogen bacteria
>
>
> "I of course put in dechloramines."
>
> - I need more clarification here, if it's means put it in the
tank, it
> will remove the food the bacteria need to multiply
>
>
> " I can add a full load of fish right off the start with this
method. I do
> not have to buy bacteris because I have plenty of healthy bacteria
on my
> filter cartridges. "
>
> - how can the tank can reach the full load capacity when the
filter, the
> gravel and other bacteria substrate is just starting to setup.
>
>
> Using a full cycled filter and using only some seed from an other
one is
> totally different .
>
> But the method of rinse old filter is a very good start. But it's
just a
> start.
>
> Putting a full fish load of fish in a non cycled tank is not some
thing
> recomandable for beginer, and expert will not do so too
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Memrie
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 09:44
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
> Boston.com
>
> That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
> steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The
link
> leads
> > you to what was a serious situation.
> >
> >
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_worker
s_r
> > escued_from_feces/
> >
> > In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> > http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > Smith & Wesson:
> > The Original Point And Click Interface
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22360 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Jerry,

Yeah I looked at them, and they look like cotton on my fish. I picked up some Fungus away from Walmart today, so I'm trying that. My tank is green right now. I have noticed the past few days the cotton on my fish seems to be not as noticeable now. So I'm hoping I have gotten a handle on it.

Keri

Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Have you look at pics about fin rot ???

Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Fungus

The best picture I can see from that group is the Body Fungus. I don't
have a camera to post pictures of, mine was ruined (long story). The
stuff looks like cotton on my fish. It seems to start at their tail the
progress up their back. I have a 55 gl aquarium, I have 2 whisper
filters on it, but no charcoal right now due to primafix. I have live
bearers in the tank along with some plecos and clown loaches. These
fish have been together for a long time, I just moved them over wached
the tank, changed 2 of the 3 filters and set it back up. My water is
real cloudy now and I was going to take about half the water out this
weekend and see if that would help. In all my years with fish I have
never had this before.

Keri

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder
My Yahoo 360 page: http://360.yahoo.com/kiwi762

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22361 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Fungus Away, can not find anything about it, is it the good name ??? who
manufacture it ???

Thanks

Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22362 From: harry perry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus/Try this
Maroxy by Mardel. I use it in my fry tanks. It works well.

Harry

Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote: Fungus Away, can not find anything about it, is it the good name ??? who
manufacture it ???

Thanks

Gérard






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22363 From: Jerry Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
The Green came from the Malachite content of the medicine,

By example API have their fungus medicine sold in 3 form, capsule, powder
and liquid the capsule and powder form contain Acriflavine , salt, and
Malachite Green, the liquid form have only Acriflavine


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri Kimball
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 21:10
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Fungus

Jerry,

Yeah I looked at them, and they look like cotton on my fish. I picked up
some Fungus away from Walmart today, so I'm trying that. My tank is green
right now. I have noticed the past few days the cotton on my fish seems to
be not as noticeable now. So I'm hoping I have gotten a handle on it.

Keri

Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Have you look at pics about fin rot ???

Gérard Gagnon
http://www.aqualab.ca


-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Keri
Envoyé : 11 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Fungus

The best picture I can see from that group is the Body Fungus. I don't
have a camera to post pictures of, mine was ruined (long story). The
stuff looks like cotton on my fish. It seems to start at their tail the
progress up their back. I have a 55 gl aquarium, I have 2 whisper
filters on it, but no charcoal right now due to primafix. I have live
bearers in the tank along with some plecos and clown loaches. These
fish have been together for a long time, I just moved them over wached
the tank, changed 2 of the 3 filters and set it back up. My water is
real cloudy now and I was going to take about half the water out this
weekend and see if that would help. In all my years with fish I have
never had this before.

Keri

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder
My Yahoo 360 page: http://360.yahoo.com/kiwi762

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22364 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: filters
Simply, a powerhead is nothing more than a water pump. I first came
across them some time after undergravel filters became popular. They
were used to move water through the filters, rather than the ubiquitous
airstones at the time. They were also responsible for the invention, s
it were, of reverse undergravel filtration where the water was moved
down the tubes and forced through the gravel bed.

The powerheads have also been put to other uses as well. They have been
used to siphon water from the tank, to just move water in the tank, etc.



\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 2:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] filters

I have a underground filter with the 2 tall things on each side and
the bio wheel for a 20 gallon but I have a ten gallon. What is a
powerhead?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22365 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
I just posted something like you are looking for earlier today in the thread "The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website)". Look it up and see if it fills the bill for you. I note that you are from the Des Moines area. Up in Ames, there is a man who has worked most of his life with bettas, a fish which was mentioned in another reply to your message.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mary
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 4:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here, looking for info on aquatic pets

Hi, my name is Mary, and I live in the midwest with my two cats, Tom
and Gabby. I've reached a point where I'm considering adopting
another pet, but am not quite sure what yet. I am a huge animal
lover, so picking one out of several possibilities is really hard for
me! That is sort of why I'm here. I'm researching different types of
pets, their habitats, care & maintenance, etc., before I actually move
forward with an adoption.

That said, if any of you can recommend generic books on aquatic pets,
that would be great! I have loads of time to read information.
Otherwise, I'm just gonna hang out here and read what I can about
aquatic pets and maybe ask questions if I have any. Thanks for having
me in the group!

--Mary



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22366 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: New here, looking for info on aquatic pets
Hi, Mary

'Aquatic pets' means anything - what about
firebellied toads? I have 2: they are very
long-lived, easy to care for, colourful and will
become remarkably tame. Alternatively, how about
aquatic frogs?

Christa
--- Mary <mary.goodpaster@...> wrote:

> Hi, my name is Mary, and I live in the midwest with
> my two cats, Tom
> and Gabby. I've reached a point where I'm
> considering adopting
> another pet, but am not quite sure what yet. I am a
> huge animal
> lover, so picking one out of several possibilities
> is really hard for
> me! That is sort of why I'm here. I'm researching
> different types of
> pets, their habitats, care & maintenance, etc.,
> before I actually move
> forward with an adoption.
>
> That said, if any of you can recommend generic books
> on aquatic pets,
> that would be great! I have loads of time to read
> information.
> Otherwise, I'm just gonna hang out here and read
> what I can about
> aquatic pets and maybe ask questions if I have any.
> Thanks for having
> me in the group!
>
> --Mary
>
>



Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22367 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and summers where it rarely gets to 80°.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com


That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22368 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/12/2007
Subject: Re: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] T
Usually, it is unfair to make a generalization about anything, however, there are exceptions, and to make the generalization that anything with Axelrod listed as an author is not worth the price. The unfortunate fact here is that for many years, his books dominated the market and there were few available to compete against TFH Publications.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 2:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: The good or the wrong about resource ( was RE: [AquaticLife] THE KRIB website)


""" The fish did not read the book."--""


Steeve not only fish, I use this expression every day

I suspect than every book or web site who talk about fish description copy
from each other, with over 23,000 species of fish it's hard to know all
them. I use also Baensch book as referral, actually I start to study German
to understand the one I have available only in German. It's funny to see so
much disparity in the Baensch and Axerold book.

What is important for a beginner it's to understand than keep fish is not
like keep a dog, they have to learn some knowledge, fish live in a totally
different environment than us or dog, so when I suggest to read a book it's
only a start, after read one I'm sure they will have some questions, and
there it gone start their learning path. " Hope it's clear with my English "

What is important is people have to stop to mass murder fish. The
achievement of a good aquarist is not to keep the fish alive it's to make
them thrive. We have too much post , (not only on this group) about dying
fish for a lack of understanding fundamental aquarist concept. You don't
treat a sick fish, you don't make him sick first


Gérard








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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22369 From: azariamum1 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: help! loss of colour in silver shark plus fish deaths
in the last few days ive lost 3 fish. now ive noticed my silver shark
has lost some colour off his fins , where it should be dark black it
looks almost like his colour has faded, i noticed this on the fish
that had died too.i lost a ram and a sailfin molly and a neon, i only
noticed colour loss in the ram. im very worried, i have done a partial
water change around 1/4 of the tank and cleaned the filter out. does
the shark have a disease and can i get treatment for it? i dont want
any more fish to die.thanks:-)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22370 From: Donna Camp Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the suggestions she's
been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts, you told
her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in Memphis to
see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the entire city,
she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when told that
there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they might not
sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not sell it.

I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on the
Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice before.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN


Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to evaluate
the product ????

If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email address of
some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist and
experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product and are
very happy with the results .

The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be in bad
situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be done for
free with some advance planning . And you have also the price believer, who
will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do the same
than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Memphisgirl,

I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when you
asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22371 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember her, not the
first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I should have
guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she use the
name Donna, but her real name is Annie,

Now I understand why the post make no sense at all


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the suggestions she's

been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts, you told
her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in Memphis to
see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the entire city,
she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when told that

there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they might not

sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not sell it.

I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on the
Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice before.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN


Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to evaluate
the product ????

If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email address of
some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist and
experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product and are
very happy with the results .

The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be in bad
situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be done for
free with some advance planning . And you have also the price believer, who
will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do the same
than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Memphisgirl,

I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when you
asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT

LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22372 From: Wendie Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com


They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22373 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Even ask yto be moderator here last week



Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember her, not the
first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I should have
guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she use the
name Donna, but her real name is Annie,

Now I understand why the post make no sense at all


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the suggestions she's

been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts, you told
her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in Memphis to
see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the entire city,
she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when told that

there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they might not

sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not sell it.

I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on the
Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice before.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN


Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to evaluate
the product ????

If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email address of
some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist and
experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product and are
very happy with the results .

The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be in bad
situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be done for
free with some advance planning . And you have also the price believer, who
will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do the same
than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Camp
Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Memphisgirl,

I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when you
asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT

LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22374 From: Erica Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: betta and african dwarf frog?
I was wondering if it is safe to put a male betta and an aquatic
African Dwarf Frog in the same two-gallon tank. I just rescued the
betta from a pet store today. Once he gets better, I want to put the
frog in his two gallon tank, if it is okay to do that.

Thanks,
Erica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22375 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like the
taste.


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com


They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22376 From: Wendie Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
In Australia the Baramundi in the wild are extremely muddy tasting during the wet season. Those raised on farms are not. Perhaps they do things differently here.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com


Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like the
taste.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22377 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I will have to take a ride out to see that operation since I live
only about 20 miles away from there. I have been meaning to go
there but othere things have come up that were more important at the
time.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
> steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The
link
> leads
> > you to what was a serious situation.
> >
> >
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_worker
s_r
> > escued_from_feces/
> >
> > In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> > http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > Smith & Wesson:
> > The Original Point And Click Interface
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22378 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
All animal taste depend on what they eat and where they grow, I can tell you
than the hare where I live do not have the same taste than the one where I
born , and it's only 300 miles distances, but the tree in the forest are not
the same , at least not in representation quantities. Our lake here
generally do not contain to much mud, even do they are deep . but when
they dig a artificial pound here to put fish in it , they often do it on
clay ground, so it's made mud. The small river around the St-Laurence river
are more muddy ( of course it's the bottom of the Champlain sea who was
covering all the place many thousand years ago )

I'm now building my third lake, but it's sandy bed and actually they are
not 100 % artificial it's a river than we dam. Now as the Australian fish in
Mass. I suspect they are indoor grow in concrete tank , it will explain the
fluidized sand filter


For my lake you can take a look

http://www.aqualab.ca/lake/lake.htm


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 10:34
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

In Australia the Baramundi in the wild are extremely muddy tasting during
the wet season. Those raised on farms are not. Perhaps they do things
differently here.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com


Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like
the
taste.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De
la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22379 From: Erica Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
In honor of my beloved, rescued betta fish, Julio, I have created a
petition (that is going to be sent to Petco) that urges them to
practice proper betta fish keeping and thus not keep bettas in small,
dirty cups. Please sign!

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/318811909

Thank you!
Erica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22380 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
You can have a look at the installation

http://australis.us/construction/



Gérard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de dreammaker2623
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 11:19
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I will have to take a ride out to see that operation since I live
only about 20 miles away from there. I have been meaning to go
there but othere things have come up that were more important at the
time.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Memrie" <mblue833@...> wrote:
>
> That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
> steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The
link
> leads
> > you to what was a serious situation.
> >
> >
>
http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_worker
s_r
> > escued_from_feces/
> >
> > In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> > http://tinyurl.com/26edpw
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > Smith & Wesson:
> > The Original Point And Click Interface
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22381 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I found the web site, it's exactly what I expect, concrete tank inside, easy
to guest, they do the same here, but with different fish . Note than the
Liquid Oxygen tank is may be for the tank, but like many poultry
installation here, may be they use it for froze the fish.

http://australis.us/construction/




Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22382 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
Although you would think farm-raised fish would be more healthy, I have read
that they should be avoided since they are fed fish food based on ground-up
ocean fish and the mercury and other poisons are magnified many times over.




_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces
- Boston.com



In Australia the Baramundi in the wild are extremely muddy tasting during
the wet season. Those raised on farms are not. Perhaps they do things
differently here.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like the
taste.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.
<http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r>
com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl. <http://tinyurl.com/26edpw> com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22383 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I don't know if this is the company or not where the accident occurred. The operation I was familiar with belongs to another group, and Australis is a relative newcomer to the area, within the last few years.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

I found the web site, it's exactly what I expect, concrete tank inside, easy
to guest, they do the same here, but with different fish . Note than the
Liquid Oxygen tank is may be for the tank, but like many poultry
installation here, may be they use it for froze the fish.

http://australis.us/construction/




Gérard








Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
I'd not brush the industry with the same broad brush. I have seen some articles that point to a problem that may occur in some pen raised fish that have led to higher concentrations of certain substances that may be harmful, in way large quantities, to harm humans. The areas studied were not widespread, and thus may have an insufficient sampling to have any real basis. I do not recall that any of the articles were peer reviewed, but rather reported in the general press.

Also, do recall that those who survive by fishing wild stocks, and preparing and selling wild stock fish have a large stake in the way they currently do business, and do not want to lose it by a large influx of fish that are commercially raised. In other words, a good dose of politics is also present in the mix.

Pen raised fish are raised in net like enclosures in natural waters, most often in larger streams and rivers, and thus are susceptible to what may be in the water that passes through the enclosures.

Peer reviewed papers are a way the scientists prevent fraud and suspect methods from being reported as actual scientific work, i.e. good science. Peer review occurs at many levels in the scientific world, starting at the institution the writer works at through a panel of scientists specializing in an area of science that the paper covers before publication in a journal. Most scientific journals have their own peer review panels to read papers put forth for publication, and they are only published after passing the review.

Papers published elsewhere than journals are suspect, as are papers that are just reported in the general press. Also, reportage of scientific matters in the general press usually are lacking in all the facts and hedges usually placed within valid papers that may limit the applicability of the reported results.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 12:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com

Although you would think farm-raised fish would be more healthy, I have read
that they should be avoided since they are fed fish food based on ground-up
ocean fish and the mercury and other poisons are magnified many times over.




_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces
- Boston.com



In Australia the Baramundi in the wild are extremely muddy tasting during
the wet season. Those raised on farms are not. Perhaps they do things
differently here.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like the
taste.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.
<http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r>
com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl. <http://tinyurl.com/26edpw> com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22385 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from f
An about vitamin coming from China, if some are worry for the dog, I will be
more for eating fish,


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Donna Ransome
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 12:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from
feces - Boston.com

Although you would think farm-raised fish would be more healthy, I have read
that they should be avoided since they are fed fish food based on ground-up
ocean fish and the mercury and other poisons are magnified many times over.




_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces
- Boston.com



In Australia the Baramundi in the wild are extremely muddy tasting during
the wet season. Those raised on farms are not. Perhaps they do things
differently here.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

Funny , here in Quebec what people dislike from trout of fish farm are the
mud taste, probably because the wild one here do not live in muddy water.
Can't judge , I don't eat fish , not by conviction, simply I don't like the
taste.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de Wendie
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:59
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that or the fact that they were doing Baramundi. Great
tasting fish and without the hint of mud you'd get in the wild.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

They have been fish farming in Turners Falls for around 30 years now. Not
exactly a place you would expect to find fish farms, in the hinterlands of
Massachusetts with days of winter temperatures in the sub-zero range, and
summers where it rarely gets to 80°.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 11:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I didn't realize that they were farm raising Baramundi here... yum!!!
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Memrie
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:43 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

That is one of those serious but funny things. Like falling down
steps, it is not funny until you find out you are ok.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This headline brought a chuckle to my lips when I saw it. The link
leads
> you to what was a serious situation.
>
>
http://www.boston.
<http://www.boston.com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r>
com/news/odd/articles/2007/05/12/4_fish_farm_workers_r
> escued_from_feces/
>
> In case of wrapping of the above, here is the TinyURL to follow:
> http://tinyurl. <http://tinyurl.com/26edpw> com/26edpw
>
> \\Steve//
> Smith & Wesson:
> The Original Point And Click Interface
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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Yahoo! Groups Links

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22386 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
Why Petco, they all keep their Beta in small glass ??

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Erica
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 08:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Petition for Healthy Betta Fish

In honor of my beloved, rescued betta fish, Julio, I have created a
petition (that is going to be sent to Petco) that urges them to
practice proper betta fish keeping and thus not keep bettas in small,
dirty cups. Please sign!

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/318811909

Thank you!
Erica



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22387 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces - Boston.com
I'm pretty sure it's this one, in the link you give me they say it's
happen at Australis in Mass. Anyway, I just want to show than those fish
are not from outside, since I read some reply with the mention of the
temperature in Mass. For a guy like me who like play with pump pipe and
water, it's always interesting to see installation like this .

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 12:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I don't know if this is the company or not where the accident occurred. The
operation I was familiar with belongs to another group, and Australis is a
relative newcomer to the area, within the last few years.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: 4 fish farm workers rescued from feces -
Boston.com

I found the web site, it's exactly what I expect, concrete tank inside, easy
to guest, they do the same here, but with different fish . Note than the
Liquid Oxygen tank is may be for the tank, but like many poultry
installation here, may be they use it for froze the fish.

http://australis.us/construction/




Gérard








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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22388 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish/Bettas in jars, a dilema
For years I have felt sorry for the betta in a small jar. Recently I started breeding bettas. Reality sank in. A female can lay over 200 eggs. If half are male, that makes 100 tanks to heat, clean etc. The betta splendens is the species you see in the pet store, usually the veil tail. There are many species of betta some don't try to kill each other. Unfortunately most males do.

Some breeders use a drip system.Go to http://www.bettapuddle.com/fishroomdripsystem.htm I doubt you will ever find a system like this at pet co but then they don't house hundreds of male bettas at a time. There is simply no practical way to house two fish who will try to kill each other.

Harry

Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote: Why Petco, they all keep their Beta in small glass ??

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Erica
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 08:41
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Petition for Healthy Betta Fish

In honor of my beloved, rescued betta fish, Julio, I have created a
petition (that is going to be sent to Petco) that urges them to
practice proper betta fish keeping and thus not keep bettas in small,
dirty cups. Please sign!

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/318811909

Thank you!
Erica

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Yahoo! Groups Links






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22389 From: larry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: cichlid breeding and fry
my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while but was wondering
what are the signs of breeding and how long does it take for the fry
to hatch?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22390 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
-Whatever a troll is Im not one of them. The blue gravel I got from
petco here in memphis. My real name is Donna. Where did you get all
of this from?


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember her,
not the
> first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
should have
> guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
use the
> name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
>
> Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
suggestions she's
>
> been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
you told
> her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
Memphis to
> see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
entire city,
> she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when
told that
>
> there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they
might not
>
> sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
sell it.
>
> I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on
the
> Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
before.
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS TN
>
>
> Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to
evaluate
> the product ????
>
> If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
address of
> some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist
and
> experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
and are
> very happy with the results .
>
> The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
> customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be
in bad
> situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
done for
> free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
believer, who
> will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do
the same
> than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> Memphisgirl,
>
> I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
when you
> asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
>
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22391 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Only one will order it and the others said they dont get enough
requests for it so they dont carry it. Whats up with all the talk Donna
Camp.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Memphisgirl,
>
> I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you when
you
> asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22392 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
One will order it but the rest say nobody asks for it so they never
carry it.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to
evaluate
> the product ????
>
> If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
address of
> some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist
and
> experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
and are
> very happy with the results .
>
> The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
> customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be
in bad
> situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
done for
> free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
believer, who
> will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do
the same
> than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> Memphisgirl,
>
> I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
when you
> asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22393 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
-PLUS I HAVENT BEEN TO FLORDIA SINCE 1990. HOW DONNA CAMP CAME UP
WITH THAT IS BEYOND ME.



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -Whatever a troll is Im not one of them. The blue gravel I got from
> petco here in memphis. My real name is Donna. Where did you get all
> of this from?
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember
her,
> not the
> > first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
> should have
> > guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
> use the
> > name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
> >
> > Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
> suggestions she's
> >
> > been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
> you told
> > her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
> Memphis to
> > see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
> entire city,
> > she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and
when
> told that
> >
> > there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought
they
> might not
> >
> > sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
> sell it.
> >
> > I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted
on
> the
> > Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
> before.
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@>
> > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> MEMPHIS TN
> >
> >
> > Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say
to
> evaluate
> > the product ????
> >
> > If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
> address of
> > some referral working in public aquarium (biologist,
microbiologist
> and
> > experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
> and are
> > very happy with the results .
> >
> > The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and
second
> > customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to
be
> in bad
> > situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
> done for
> > free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
> believer, who
> > will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4
do
> the same
> > than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > Memphisgirl,
> >
> > I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
> when you
> > asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> >
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22394 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
HOW DO MY POSTS MAKE NO SENSE. IM VERY OFFENDED BY WHAT YOU SAID
JERRY.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember her,
not the
> first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
should have
> guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
use the
> name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
>
> Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
suggestions she's
>
> been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
you told
> her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
Memphis to
> see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
entire city,
> she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when
told that
>
> there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they
might not
>
> sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
sell it.
>
> I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on
the
> Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
before.
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS TN
>
>
> Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to
evaluate
> the product ????
>
> If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
address of
> some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist
and
> experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
and are
> very happy with the results .
>
> The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
> customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be
in bad
> situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
done for
> free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
believer, who
> will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do
the same
> than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> Memphisgirl,
>
> I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
when you
> asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
>
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22395 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Thanks Steve


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0. The
also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies and
mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems to
be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at least
the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very long
time since I have kept anyplaties.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22396 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Petition for Healthy Betta Fish
I have been rolling this around in my mind all day, trying to determine
how best to write a message about your petition. What you are asking is
not realistic. You might be better off to ask that water changes are
done to the containers every day.

Most bettas are raised in containers that contain one pint to one quart
of water. Those few that may show potential as show fish may be granted
larger quarters to ensure quality fin development, maybe a half gallon
to one gallon container. In any of the mentioned containers, they do
quite well. Daily water changes are the norm, and no filtration is used,
though some will swear by the polyfilter as a way of dealing with
ammonia, no filtration is used. As mentioned in another message in this
thread, a drip system is used rather than wholesale water changes at a
rate of 1-2 100% water changes. Neither is aeration normally used.
Bettas are labyrinth fish, and can breathe air, if need be.

When comes time to be bred, the males are moved to larger quarters,
allowed to build a bubble nest and the female is introduced. The male is
kept in the larger quarters until the fry are free swimming, while the
female is removed shortly after breeding, since the male carries the
burden of protecting the nest and the fry. The fry are removed to
smaller quarts to grow as soon as they are sexable.

The bettas you see in the trade are raised much the same, but kept in
the minimum space possible. They are shipped as tightly packed as
possible, often from the Far East. By the time they reach your local
Petco, they have been in transit 2 or 3 days. They are then placed in
the bowls you see (I've never seen them in cups). Petco (and others)
count on a quick turnover in their stock, so they have room for more
bettas before the next order comes in. The water in these containers
should be changed everyday, and if you know it is not, then you may have
a case against this Petco for not properly caring for their livestock,
in this case, the bettas. Otherwise they should be just fine.

As for the fish being unhappy, well, you are merely projecting a human
emotion or state of mind to an animal. The fish may not be displaying,
and/or just appear to be languid. This is a natural behavior. Bettas do
not always display. Bettas do have periods of activity, like when they
looking for food. Also keep in mind that the parents of these fish were
not best of breed parents and, therefore, you are not liable to see good
coloration, good finnage and good growth on these fish at purchase time,

If you must have a petition to Petco, identify a real problem, and
address that, but make sure it is a problem before you do,


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Erica
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Petition for Healthy Betta Fish

In honor of my beloved, rescued betta fish, Julio, I have created a
petition (that is going to be sent to Petco) that urges them to
practice proper betta fish keeping and thus not keep bettas in small,
dirty cups. Please sign!

http://www.thepetitionsite.com/takeaction/318811909

Thank you!
Erica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22397 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
How often should I add the salt.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Steve
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
The
> also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies and
> mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
to
> be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at least
> the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
long
> time since I have kept anyplaties.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22398 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Posts, to all.
This group is for talking about fish, not each other. If you don't like a post, that's what the deletion button is for. Let's get back on topic.

Thanks
Harry, a moderator


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22399 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of slat to use.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

How often should I add the salt.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Steve
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
The
> also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies and
> mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
to
> be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at least
> the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
long
> time since I have kept anyplaties.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22400 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
> > >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22401 From: marla Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: hi and help....
my name is marla and I need help with a crawdad....my grandson found a
baby and gave it to his mom and me for mothers day....now we need to
know how to keep it alive so any help will be greatly appreciated!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22402 From: David Greensmith Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
At some point, hopefully, the authorities will realise how cruel this practice of injecting dye into fish is and will outlaw it.

David
----- Original Message -----
From: dreammaker2623
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 3:54 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


They are the "white tetras" ( actually a black tetra bred for not
havong balck in them) and then the inject die in too them. Many of
the fish that get this treatment do not live long and those that do
live will loose their "fruit colors" as the live.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Traci Swatek-Rice" <t-
> swatek@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I wanted to see, by those that have them, what you think
> > of the fruit tetras? They are so pretty.
> =============================
> Hi :
> fruit tetras?????Never heard that name before.Do you have a
Latin
> name? Common names can vary state to state.What does the fish look
> like? A picture is the best way to identify it.
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
> > >< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22403 From: harry perry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help..../crawfish
Hi Marla,

Try this. http://www.anapsid.org/crayfish.html

Harry

marla <bratpack9@...> wrote: my name is marla and I need help with a crawdad....my grandson found a
baby and gave it to his mom and me for mothers day....now we need to
know how to keep it alive so any help will be greatly appreciated!!!






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22404 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Bettas, petitions, and the term "rescue"
The cup containers are supposed to be a temporary way to house bettas until
time of sale.

A more useful petition may be to ask the major pet retailers to stop selling
tiny containers to permanently house small creatures like a betta.

To a potential new betta owner the sight of such a beautiful pet in such a
small container perhaps makes them think that this pet does not need a large
environment to thrive. Selling the new owner a "goldfish bowl" or other small
container is where retailers need to improve.

I buy fish in bags, I know they need a larger container and that the bag is
a temporary environment like the "betta cups". Just as an overstocked tank
in a store is not an example of how fish should be kept. It is a means for
the store to display property for sale. Many of the pet store tanks have huge
filtration systems out of sight to filter the heavy bioload in an overstocked
tank. An overstocked Mbuna cichlid tank is a great way to cut down
aggression until they sell them. If male bettas could be kept in a similar manner
they would do just that. But as most of us here probably know that even in a
large tank two male bettas would probably trash each other. So in order to
sell them they are housed in smaller containers.


As far as "rescue" is concerned, it is perhaps one of the most misused term
when it comes to pets.

A fish purchased at a stores is not so much a "rescue" as supporting the way
the fish are kept in the store.
Make it profitable for the business to sell fish in a certain manner does
not dissuade them it merely encourages them to continue.

If I see a beer in a local store and buy it because I don't agree with beer
being in the store I am encouraging the store to continue selling beer.


Rescue used to mean something like, "we found a stray cat running around
half starved on a country road no where near a farmhouse." Or a cat purchased
from the pound, or to use the more PC term "Animal Shelter". Now it is often
used whenever people acquire a pet that was not kept in a manner they
personally find acceptable. i.e. a pet store.


Mike



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22405 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of larry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 5:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry



my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while but was wondering
what are the signs of breeding and how long does it take for the fry
to hatch?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22406 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help....
It depends on which species. Where do you live?

I would start off with at least a 10G tank with filter and keep the heat
around 72F until you learn more. Hopefully you have moderately hard water
which most invertebrates need for sustaining the hardness in their shells.

Take a picture of it and post a link to the picture(s).

Here's a few links I have in my favorites folder on crawfish.

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article40.html
http://www.anapsid.org/crayfish.html
http://crayfish.byu.edu/
http://www.crayfishworld.com/internationalcraysUSA.htm
http://iz.carnegiemnh.org/crayfish/country_pages/species_by_country2.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of marla
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 12:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] hi and help....

my name is marla and I need help with a crawdad....my grandson found a baby
and gave it to his mom and me for mothers day....now we need to know how to
keep it alive so any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22407 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Who do you need to wait for the "Authorities" to do this?

Why not try educating fish keepers and stores that you think this is
unethical?

I have read fish magazines from the UK and thought they were excellent. Do
they try and educate their readership about this practice?

Start a letter writing campaign to the store keepers. Boycott stores that
sell them. I boycott stores that sell hubrids. I make it a point of telling
a clerk or manager that I won't shop there because of injected fish and or
hybrids.

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 4:01:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
davidbgreensmith@... writes:




At some point, hopefully, the authorities will realise how cruel this
practice of injecting dye into fish is and will outlaw it.

David









************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22408 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Ya anything for money on businesses. I dont think the should do that
to fish either.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Who do you need to wait for the "Authorities" to do this?
>
> Why not try educating fish keepers and stores that you think this
is
> unethical?
>
> I have read fish magazines from the UK and thought they were
excellent. Do
> they try and educate their readership about this practice?
>
> Start a letter writing campaign to the store keepers. Boycott
stores that
> sell them. I boycott stores that sell hubrids. I make it a point
of telling
> a clerk or manager that I won't shop there because of injected
fish and or
> hybrids.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 5/13/2007 4:01:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> davidbgreensmith@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> At some point, hopefully, the authorities will realise how cruel
this
> practice of injecting dye into fish is and will outlaw it.
>
> David
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22409 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
This is the post who make no sence

" I had to get stabillity. You think thats just as good. Its a bacteria you
put in the refrig. too. "

This is a post I think you answer here to something someone say in an other
place . I'm the one who talk about Bio Spira, so just as good as what ,
and what other product you put in the ref too ????

But now it's make sense you cross post and mix the answer.

The problem is you ask a question here, you get answers , you go other group
get other answers, you came back with those answers to question our answers.
We call it cross post, it's ok to do it, but when you came back saying that
someone tell you in an other group than our answer is wrong, you have to
give all the fact not you interpretation.


Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 18:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

HOW DO MY POSTS MAKE NO SENSE. IM VERY OFFENDED BY WHAT YOU SAID
JERRY.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember her,
not the
> first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
should have
> guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
use the
> name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
>
> Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
suggestions she's
>
> been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
you told
> her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
Memphis to
> see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
entire city,
> she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and when
told that
>
> there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought they
might not
>
> sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
sell it.
>
> I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted on
the
> Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
before.
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS TN
>
>
> Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say to
evaluate
> the product ????
>
> If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
address of
> some referral working in public aquarium (biologist, microbiologist
and
> experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
and are
> very happy with the results .
>
> The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and second
> customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to be
in bad
> situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
done for
> free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
believer, who
> will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4 do
the same
> than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Donna Camp
> Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS
TN
>
> Memphisgirl,
>
> I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
when you
> asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
>
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22410 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Gerard,
You are very knowledgable about fishkeeping, of that I have no doubt.

Regarding the Bio Wheel filtration method.

Are you stating that the wheel is totally useless and that ALL the
functional bacteria is in the filter material?

Grocery stores and restaraunts use a larger Biowheel filter for their
lobster and sea food tanks. Both the retail and restaraunt biowheel filtration
systems are made by Marineland. I can understand the average consumer like
myself falling for clever marketing, but I think convincing an entire industry
like the retail grocers and restaraunt industry is another matter.

Just to clarify, I am not a share holder or employee in Marineland or any
companies in association with Marineland. I just want to know why the
industrial grocery filtration works and the retail consumer version does not.

Hydor makes a sponge filter on a powerhead that rotates in a clock like
rotation like a biowheel, always exposing a portion of the foam wheel to the air.
How does this differ from the Marineland Biowheel? Or do you think they
both do not work?

I am only using a few biowheel filters, I mostly used air driven sponge
filters or my personal choice for HOB filters is the Aqua Clear filter.

Mike G.

In a message dated 5/11/2007 4:33:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... writes:




The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the market,
they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe people than it
work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the organics and second
assist in the nitrogen cycle

A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic bacteria who
break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia, the Maryland
filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the few fibber
people will add to it that will change

The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin to fast to
produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by himself, it
retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface retention of
the wheels keep mainly always the same water.

If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have a god sponge
size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce the flow (
they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel in the tank
take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when you siphon a
tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it cycle you
only siphon a small surface at the time.

Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They always overate
their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal filter or
remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20 gal. tank I
use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with sensitive fin you
just reduce the flow

Gerard









************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22411 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


Who do you need to wait for the "Authorities" to do this?

Why not try educating fish keepers and stores that you think this is
unethical?

I have read fish magazines from the UK and thought they were excellent. Do
they try and educate their readership about this practice?

Start a letter writing campaign to the store keepers. Boycott stores that
sell them. I boycott stores that sell hubrids. I make it a point of telling
a clerk or manager that I won't shop there because of injected fish and or
hybrids.

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 4:01:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
davidbgreensmith@... <mailto:davidbgreensmith%40yahoo.co.uk>
writes:

At some point, hopefully, the authorities will realise how cruel this
practice of injecting dye into fish is and will outlaw it.

David

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22412 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Ok what happened is I called this fish store in memphis and my
husband was in memphis at the time, I live alittle outside of
memphis, and since he was already in memphis I got him to get that
stuff called stabillity because when I called that fish store I asked
them if they had bio spira and they said no but they had stabillity.
I just assumed it was refrig. bacteria. I called them when he got
home and they had mislead me because then they told me I didnt need
to put in in the refrig. They didnt say this but they just wanted a
sell. There is this other place that will have some in Wed or Thurs.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> This is the post who make no sence
>
> " I had to get stabillity. You think thats just as good. Its a
bacteria you
> put in the refrig. too. "
>
> This is a post I think you answer here to something someone say in
an other
> place . I'm the one who talk about Bio Spira, so just as good
as what ,
> and what other product you put in the ref too ????
>
> But now it's make sense you cross post and mix the answer.
>
> The problem is you ask a question here, you get answers , you go
other group
> get other answers, you came back with those answers to question our
answers.
> We call it cross post, it's ok to do it, but when you came back
saying that
> someone tell you in an other group than our answer is wrong, you
have to
> give all the fact not you interpretation.
>
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 18:02
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
>
> HOW DO MY POSTS MAKE NO SENSE. IM VERY OFFENDED BY WHAT YOU SAID
> JERRY.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember
her,
> not the
> > first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
> should have
> > guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
> use the
> > name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
> >
> > Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
> suggestions she's
> >
> > been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
> you told
> > her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
> Memphis to
> > see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
> entire city,
> > she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and
when
> told that
> >
> > there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought
they
> might not
> >
> > sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
> sell it.
> >
> > I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted
on
> the
> > Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
> before.
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@>
> > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> MEMPHIS TN
> >
> >
> > Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say
to
> evaluate
> > the product ????
> >
> > If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
> address of
> > some referral working in public aquarium (biologist,
microbiologist
> and
> > experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
> and are
> > very happy with the results .
> >
> > The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and
second
> > customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to
be
> in bad
> > situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
> done for
> > free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
> believer, who
> > will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4
do
> the same
> > than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > Memphisgirl,
> >
> > I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
> when you
> > asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> >
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22413 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Lenny,
I was with you right up until the part about "fish breeding/importing
lobbyists".
I have never heard of this before.
I know many many many fish breeders and they don't have two cents to rub
together to pay for a lobbyist. Many of these same breeders also import fish
and let's just say, None of them are rich enough to hire lobbyists.

What am I missing?

As far as telling other store visitors, I have done that on occasion,
explaining that the 1 inch pleco will reach 15 inches in a couple years, and that
the Siamese algae eater the clerk recommended will start to feast on the sides
of thir fish in the near future. At one point I thought about handing out
business cards for my local aquarium society, but thought this might earn me
some legal trouble : )

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:03:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22414 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Dr. Timothy Hovenac is one of the premiere experts in the field of
nitrifying bacteria. He and his team at Marineland developed the Bio-Wheel
technology and Bio-Spira. His works have been peer-reviewed and published.
If he says the Bio-Wheel works, I believe it!

http://www.marineland.com/science/nspira.asp
http://www.marineland.com/science/dr_tim/drtims.asp
http://www.marineland.com/science/biowheel.asp

Now, that said, there is a "business" reason for the development of the
Bio-Wheel and that is to sell more filter cartridges to new fish keepers.
By fully explaining to customers how the N-bacteria live on the Bio-Wheel
and filter pads, they can logically and safely explain that it is OK to
throw away the small carbon/polypad filter cartridge every couple of weeks
since they will not cause cycling issues in their tank because the Bio-Wheel
is not affected by the filter change.

I don't like using carbon (I do use Purigen though since it is reusable) and
I don't like throwing money away so all I did with my Bio-Wheel 200 is
modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. I have it as one of my filter systems on my
goldfish/pleco tank so I strive to keep ALL of my N-bacteria alive since I
don't need cycling issues with those heavy ammonia producing goldfish. Here
is my blog article with pictures showing how I have my Bio-Wheel set up and
how I clean/maintain it.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


Gerard,
You are very knowledgable about fishkeeping, of that I have no doubt.

Regarding the Bio Wheel filtration method.

Are you stating that the wheel is totally useless and that ALL the
functional bacteria is in the filter material?

Grocery stores and restaraunts use a larger Biowheel filter for their
lobster and sea food tanks. Both the retail and restaraunt biowheel
filtration systems are made by Marineland. I can understand the average
consumer like myself falling for clever marketing, but I think convincing an
entire industry like the retail grocers and restaraunt industry is another
matter.

Just to clarify, I am not a share holder or employee in Marineland or any
companies in association with Marineland. I just want to know why the
industrial grocery filtration works and the retail consumer version does
not.

Hydor makes a sponge filter on a powerhead that rotates in a clock like
rotation like a biowheel, always exposing a portion of the foam wheel to the
air.
How does this differ from the Marineland Biowheel? Or do you think they both
do not work?

I am only using a few biowheel filters, I mostly used air driven sponge
filters or my personal choice for HOB filters is the Aqua Clear filter.

Mike G.

In a message dated 5/11/2007 4:33:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca> writes:

The Maryland Biowheel filter is the less efficient filter on the market,
they have produce a good marketing strategy to make believe people than it
work, a filter need 2 think, they have to break down the organics and second
assist in the nitrogen cycle

A filter pads collect organics, they culture heterotrophic bacteria who
break down organics , as example they transform it in ammonia, the Maryland
filter have only a very tin layer of fibber, and it's not the few fibber
people will add to it that will change

The biowheel, every microbiologist will tell you that it's spin to fast to
produce the effect advertise. The wheel surface is a mistake by himself, it
retain some water, but this water is not exchange, the surface retention of
the wheels keep mainly always the same water.

If you want to use a HOB filter go with an Aquaclear, they have a god sponge
size, and best of all you choose a larger model and you reduce the flow (
they are adjustable) As for the nitrifying bacteria, the gravel in the tank
take care of it . Just make sure you don't wash it totally when you siphon a
tank, and don't siphon the gravel of a cycling tank, and when it cycle you
only siphon a small surface at the time.

Your 10 gal. filter is not enough for a 20 gal. tank. They always overate
their filter, get a 20 gal. filter and add it to your 10 gal filter or
remove the 10 gal one and replace it with a 40 gal. one. In a 20 gal. tank I
use a Aqua clear 50 ( 50 gal. ) , if you have fish with sensitive fin you
just reduce the flow

Gerard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22415 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Lenny,
Thank you!
An excellent post with references!
I feel like I am back in college ;)

Smart use of the "Disposable" cartridge. I was lucky several years ago and
found some refillable cartridges for my 170 filters. I don't use carbon, but
use the filter floss to refill the cartridges, works great and I have not
had to buy a filter cartridge in years. One BIG bag of filter floss from the
fabric or craft store lasts me over a year for a couple dollars.

Mike


In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:24:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Dr. Timothy Hovenac is one of the premiere experts in the field of
nitrifying bacteria. He and his team at Marineland developed the Bio-Wheel
technology and Bio-Spira. His works have been peer-reviewed and published.
If he says the Bio-Wheel works, I believe it!

http://www.marineland.com/science/nspira.asp
http://www.marineland.com/science/dr_tim/drtims.asp
http://www.marineland.com/science/biowheel.asp

Now, that said, there is a "business" reason for the development of the
Bio-Wheel and that is to sell more filter cartridges to new fish keepers.
By fully explaining to customers how the N-bacteria live on the Bio-Wheel
and filter pads, they can logically and safely explain that it is OK to
throw away the small carbon/polypad filter cartridge every couple of weeks
since they will not cause cycling issues in their tank because the Bio-Wheel
is not affected by the filter change.

I don't like using carbon (I do use Purigen though since it is reusable) and
I don't like throwing money away so all I did with my Bio-Wheel 200 is
modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. I have it as one of my filter systems on my
goldfish/pleco tank so I strive to keep ALL of my N-bacteria alive since I
don't need cycling issues with those heavy ammonia producing goldfish. Here
is my blog article with pictures showing how I have my Bio-Wheel set up and
how I clean/maintain it.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com







************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22416 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Mike I'm happy you ask question

First the bacteria, if you read back my post I said than the bacteria
(heterotrophic ) who live in the sponge are mainly an other type than the
nitrifying one, they are their for transform the organics detritus in
ammonia, of course you have also nitro bacteria but in small amount, so if
you look at the volume of the filter pad of the Maryland filter it's to
small to contain enough bacteria to do the decomposition of solid in
ammonia.

If you notice Aqua clear filter, how many time you change the sponge, me
never. They get all dirty, you squeeze them and you see a dark coffee liquid
going out, that's the organic stuff in proceed , you need bacteria to
transform them before the nitro one can act. If you squeeze a Maryland
filter , not so much dirt go out .


The system of Hydor offer more surface of filter material in contact with
water, so the exchange is better. And you can put a y adaptor and 2 valve so
you can adjust the speed rotation of the wheel, by bypassing water

You have excellent thicker filter where it's a huge wheel full of plastic
stuff so it's a huge mass who get air,


Now Maryland, the biowheel use in the commercial system is not the same at
all, Maryland made excellent laboratory and commercial equipment. The cheap
one sold for small tank rotated to fast, the wheel is not in contact long
enough with the water to give an excellent transfer. The osmotic pressure
is to low to permit an exchange of water between the wheel and the tank.

Maryland use their test result with bio wheel with the commercial and
industrial . but I think the one they sold in pet shop are only cheap
imitation of the commercial one, to keep it with lower price for sell it.

The keep of bio filtration is the time the water is in contact with the
bacteria .

A biowhell like the small Maryland filter will be good when it will be speed
adjustable , and the rest of the filter will need more surface for the other
work, they like to sell us replacement cartridge too, those filter are
design to change often the filter pad , at least the common hobbyist do it.

I hope Hagen will never realise than we do not need to change the sponge, or
else they will remove it from the market to sell disposable stuff too.


I hope it's more clear I have hard time to express it in English

I building a fish room with over 100 tanks, all them mainly to experiment
filtration techniques, that's my dada

Here the work in construction , the last pics at the bottom was take 10
minutes ago in the semi-dark


http://www.aqualab.ca/fish_room/fish_room.htm


Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22417 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
Seachem Stability I was reading it as you need stability in your tank

I don't know the product , here a description from Seachem web site

"The bacteria in Stability in the spore form (basically the preserved
bacteria in the bottle)"


They said it's a spore form , that's the form other non effective one sell
. and you notice the word basically , what it's means ???? can be anything,


Bio Spira are not basically bacteria, they are bacteria, a live just keep a
sleep by low temperature.


they have Stability at Big Al's in Montreal I will buy it this week and try
to cycle a tank with it , I will see



Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 20:07
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN

Ok what happened is I called this fish store in memphis and my
husband was in memphis at the time, I live alittle outside of
memphis, and since he was already in memphis I got him to get that
stuff called stabillity because when I called that fish store I asked
them if they had bio spira and they said no but they had stabillity.
I just assumed it was refrig. bacteria. I called them when he got
home and they had mislead me because then they told me I didnt need
to put in in the refrig. They didnt say this but they just wanted a
sell. There is this other place that will have some in Wed or Thurs.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> This is the post who make no sence
>
> " I had to get stabillity. You think thats just as good. Its a
bacteria you
> put in the refrig. too. "
>
> This is a post I think you answer here to something someone say in
an other
> place . I'm the one who talk about Bio Spira, so just as good
as what ,
> and what other product you put in the ref too ????
>
> But now it's make sense you cross post and mix the answer.
>
> The problem is you ask a question here, you get answers , you go
other group
> get other answers, you came back with those answers to question our
answers.
> We call it cross post, it's ok to do it, but when you came back
saying that
> someone tell you in an other group than our answer is wrong, you
have to
> give all the fact not you interpretation.
>
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 18:02
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
>
> HOW DO MY POSTS MAKE NO SENSE. IM VERY OFFENDED BY WHAT YOU SAID
> JERRY.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember
her,
> not the
> > first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
> should have
> > guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile she
> use the
> > name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
> >
> > Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
> suggestions she's
> >
> > been given here and what she's done is coming out in half parts,
> you told
> > her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
> Memphis to
> > see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
> entire city,
> > she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and
when
> told that
> >
> > there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought
they
> might not
> >
> > sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might not
> sell it.
> >
> > I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted
on
> the
> > Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for advice
> before.
> >
> > Donna
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@>
> > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> MEMPHIS TN
> >
> >
> > Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to say
to
> evaluate
> > the product ????
> >
> > If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them email
> address of
> > some referral working in public aquarium (biologist,
microbiologist
> and
> > experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the product
> and are
> > very happy with the results .
> >
> > The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and
second
> > customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have to
be
> in bad
> > situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can be
> done for
> > free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
> believer, who
> > will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4
do
> the same
> > than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Donna Camp
> > Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
MEMPHIS
> TN
> >
> > Memphisgirl,
> >
> > I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told you
> when you
> > asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> >
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22418 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
OK thanks


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Seachem Stability I was reading it as you need stability in your
tank
>
> I don't know the product , here a description from Seachem web
site
>
> "The bacteria in Stability in the spore form (basically the
preserved
> bacteria in the bottle)"
>
>
> They said it's a spore form , that's the form other non effective
one sell
> . and you notice the word basically , what it's means ???? can be
anything,
>
>
> Bio Spira are not basically bacteria, they are bacteria, a live
just keep a
> sleep by low temperature.
>
>
> they have Stability at Big Al's in Montreal I will buy it this
week and try
> to cycle a tank with it , I will see
>
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 20:07
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
>
> Ok what happened is I called this fish store in memphis and my
> husband was in memphis at the time, I live alittle outside of
> memphis, and since he was already in memphis I got him to get that
> stuff called stabillity because when I called that fish store I
asked
> them if they had bio spira and they said no but they had
stabillity.
> I just assumed it was refrig. bacteria. I called them when he got
> home and they had mislead me because then they told me I didnt need
> to put in in the refrig. They didnt say this but they just wanted a
> sell. There is this other place that will have some in Wed or Thurs.
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> >
> > This is the post who make no sence
> >
> > " I had to get stabillity. You think thats just as good. Its a
> bacteria you
> > put in the refrig. too. "
> >
> > This is a post I think you answer here to something someone say
in
> an other
> > place . I'm the one who talk about Bio Spira, so just as
good
> as what ,
> > and what other product you put in the ref too ????
> >
> > But now it's make sense you cross post and mix the answer.
> >
> > The problem is you ask a question here, you get answers , you go
> other group
> > get other answers, you came back with those answers to question
our
> answers.
> > We call it cross post, it's ok to do it, but when you came back
> saying that
> > someone tell you in an other group than our answer is wrong, you
> have to
> > give all the fact not you interpretation.
> >
> >
> > Gerard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 18:02
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN MEMPHIS TN
> >
> > HOW DO MY POSTS MAKE NO SENSE. IM VERY OFFENDED BY WHAT YOU SAID
> > JERRY.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Donna, I check the profile of MemphisGirl, now remember
> her,
> > not the
> > > first time I meet her She live in Florida, She is a Troll, I
> > should have
> > > guess when I saw the blue gravel in her tank, in her profile
she
> > use the
> > > name Donna, but her real name is Annie,
> > >
> > > Now I understand why the post make no sense at all
> > >
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Donna Camp
> > > Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 07:07
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> MEMPHIS
> > TN
> > >
> > > My point in asking HER was that after she's half tried the
> > suggestions she's
> > >
> > > been given here and what she's done is coming out in half
parts,
> > you told
> > > her to get the Bio Spira, she didn't check all of the stores in
> > Memphis to
> > > see if they had it, she said that they didn't have ANY in the
> > entire city,
> > > she got something else THEN asked if that product was OK, and
> when
> > told that
> > >
> > > there WAS Bio Spira in Memphis, she asked you why you thought
> they
> > might not
> > >
> > > sell the Bio Spira, she asked you why you thought they might
not
> > sell it.
> > >
> > > I see she hasn't posted here again tonight, but, she has posted
> on
> > the
> > > Google group and sounds like she's never asked anyone for
advice
> > before.
> > >
> > > Donna
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Jerry" <dataxpert@>
> > > To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 6:32 PM
> > > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> > MEMPHIS TN
> > >
> > >
> > > Are you gone take in count what employee of pet shop have to
say
> to
> > evaluate
> > > the product ????
> > >
> > > If someone give me a good reason to do so, I can give them
email
> > address of
> > > some referral working in public aquarium (biologist,
> microbiologist
> > and
> > > experience aquarist) , who use , know and understand the
product
> > and are
> > > very happy with the results .
> > >
> > > The real reason are, pet shop owner do not know about it, and
> second
> > > customers are too cheap to buy the product, actually you have
to
> be
> > in bad
> > > situation to pay $20 or $40 for a cycling product, when it can
be
> > done for
> > > free with some advance planning . And you have also the price
> > believer, who
> > > will find you all reason to say than a product for cycle at $ 4
> do
> > the same
> > > than the Bio Spira at more than $ 20.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de Donna Camp
> > > Envoyé : 12 mai 2007 17:54
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : Re: [AquaticLife] Re: THEY DO NOT SELL BIO SPIRA IN
> MEMPHIS
> > TN
> > >
> > > Memphisgirl,
> > >
> > > I'd be interested in hearing what the stores in Memphis told
you
> > when you
> > > asked them why they didn't carry it anymore.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > >
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22419 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet, and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22420 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
His works have been peer-reviewed and published.
If he says the Bio-Wheel works, I believe it!


SO if someone say than in some country they use fish as mass destruction
weapon , you will believe him and rush to send the marines ????

Of course the guy say it work, first it work , but on the commercial and
research system, and honestly since when you see an employee of a company
say their system do not work ..........

Marketing need believer. Me it's too see to believe, I have few Maryland
filter than I use only to move water, I have every kind of filter you can
not imagine, and the Maryland is the last one I will trust, just as example
is you lost electricity , the bio wheel lost all is bacteria they like air
but not too long. You also have to keep the level in the tank to high to
make them turn, I hate to remove water before plunge my hand to work in the
tank, especially planted one.

You talk only of the biowheel part of my post.

How do you eliminate the organic (nitrate are inorganic compound) in a Gold
Fish tank without sufficient filtration system, by changing a lot of water.
In few of my tank I change 25% of the water once every 6 months. I will let
you know "the how to achieve it" when it will be post on my website.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22421 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Mike,

http://www.pijac.org


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


Lenny,
I was with you right up until the part about "fish breeding/importing
lobbyists".
I have never heard of this before.
I know many many many fish breeders and they don't have two cents to rub
together to pay for a lobbyist. Many of these same breeders also import fish
and let's just say, None of them are rich enough to hire lobbyists.

What am I missing?

As far as telling other store visitors, I have done that on occasion,
explaining that the 1 inch pleco will reach 15 inches in a couple years, and that
the Siamese algae eater the clerk recommended will start to feast on the sides
of thir fish in the near future. At one point I thought about handing out
business cards for my local aquarium society, but thought this might earn me
some legal trouble : )

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:03:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22422 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22423 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Steve they even have a "Animal Care Guidelines for the Retail Pet Industry"




http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=318


do you think pet shop owner know how to read ????


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...

Mike,

http://www.pijac.org


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


Lenny,
I was with you right up until the part about "fish breeding/importing
lobbyists".
I have never heard of this before.
I know many many many fish breeders and they don't have two cents to rub
together to pay for a lobbyist. Many of these same breeders also import
fish
and let's just say, None of them are rich enough to hire lobbyists.

What am I missing?

As far as telling other store visitors, I have done that on occasion,
explaining that the 1 inch pleco will reach 15 inches in a couple years, and
that
the Siamese algae eater the clerk recommended will start to feast on the
sides
of thir fish in the near future. At one point I thought about handing out
business cards for my local aquarium society, but thought this might earn
me
some legal trouble : )

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:03:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly
every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws
until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters
are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22424 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
I really like this part of their guidance

" The name and address of the
person/dealer from whom the animal
was obtained "





Gérard









-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jerry
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...

Steve they even have a "Animal Care Guidelines for the Retail Pet Industry"




http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=318


do you think pet shop owner know how to read ????


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...

Mike,

http://www.pijac.org


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


Lenny,
I was with you right up until the part about "fish breeding/importing
lobbyists".
I have never heard of this before.
I know many many many fish breeders and they don't have two cents to rub
together to pay for a lobbyist. Many of these same breeders also import
fish
and let's just say, None of them are rich enough to hire lobbyists.

What am I missing?

As far as telling other store visitors, I have done that on occasion,
explaining that the 1 inch pleco will reach 15 inches in a couple years, and
that
the Siamese algae eater the clerk recommended will start to feast on the
sides
of thir fish in the near future. At one point I thought about handing out
business cards for my local aquarium society, but thought this might earn
me
some legal trouble : )

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:03:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly
every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws
until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters
are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22425 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Jerry,

Lenny said that his works has been peer reviewed. That means they have
passed the smell test, and the experiments his work is based upon are
valid and repeatable.

If, as in your example, someone in another country days he has perfected
fish as a weapon of mass destruction, wrote a paper and was able to
publish it without peer review, then his claims are very much suspect.
However, if they were published in a peer reviewed journal, they would
have passed the smell test and he would need to be taken on the basis of
his paper. Others would use that work to recreate what he has done, and,
perhaps, to improve upon it.

BIG DIFFERENCE.

Of course, disclaimers are needed here. I personally know Tim Hovenac.
He is an up front, very intelligent person. He is serious and sincere
about his work and the fishes.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon

His works have been peer-reviewed and published.
If he says the Bio-Wheel works, I believe it!


SO if someone say than in some country they use fish as mass destruction
weapon , you will believe him and rush to send the marines ????

Of course the guy say it work, first it work , but on the commercial and
research system, and honestly since when you see an employee of a
company
say their system do not work ..........

Marketing need believer. Me it's too see to believe, I have few
Maryland
filter than I use only to move water, I have every kind of filter you
can
not imagine, and the Maryland is the last one I will trust, just as
example
is you lost electricity , the bio wheel lost all is bacteria they like
air
but not too long. You also have to keep the level in the tank to high
to
make them turn, I hate to remove water before plunge my hand to work in
the
tank, especially planted one.

You talk only of the biowheel part of my post.

How do you eliminate the organic (nitrate are inorganic compound) in a
Gold
Fish tank without sufficient filtration system, by changing a lot of
water.
In few of my tank I change 25% of the water once every 6 months. I will
let
you know "the how to achieve it" when it will be post on my website.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22426 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "


Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22427 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious Island in English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than the original read I did of the work.

For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post conclusion of 20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22428 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
" use the filter floss to refill the cartridges, works great and I have not

had to buy a filter cartridge in years. One BIG bag of filter floss from
the
fabric or craft store lasts me over a year for a couple dollars.

Mike



They have at Wal-Mart in the pillow or craft section.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22429 From: marla dewitt Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: hi and help..../crawfish
thanks...this should help alot!!!

harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote: Hi Marla,

Try this. http://www.anapsid.org/crayfish.html

Harry

marla <bratpack9@...> wrote: my name is marla and I need help with a crawdad....my grandson found a
baby and gave it to his mom and me for mothers day....now we need to
know how to keep it alive so any help will be greatly appreciated!!!





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22430 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
"If, as in your example, someone in another country days he has perfected
fish as a weapon of mass destruction, wrote a paper and was able to
publish it without peer review, then his claims are very much suspect.
However, if they were published in a peer reviewed journal, they would
have passed the smell test and he would need to be taken on the basis of
his paper. Others would use that work to recreate what he has done, and,
perhaps, to improve upon it. "


Unless in the interest of the nation they keep secret the report who show
the existence of the Fish of mass destruction.... anyway no need to extend
the Mission is accomplish. It's a little bit politic or is it ??? it's
symbiosis after all,


As for the Penguin and Emperor filter they are a total lost of money,
better invest in some good real filter. I bought 30 X 20 gal tank in a huge
special, they came with a small Maryland filter, I will replace all them
with aqua clear 50 , I can sell them to you if you like . I can also
include few of the preset Maryland heater, what a good idea a heater you
can't adjust .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22431 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious Island in
English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than the
original read I did of the work.

For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues Under the
Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post conclusion of
20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22432 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Mike,

I think most industries employ lobbyists to get laws passed or keep them
from getting passed. I'm not saying the individual breeders are doing it
but if they belong to some kind of association, I would speculate that the
association uses part of the membership fees to keep the laws in their
favor. It happens in EVERYTHING that happens around us.

Here is what I found with a few minutes of research.

There is a website for Segrest Farms
http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home which is a
major supplier to many retailers and they list the following associations on
their "Home" page. (BTW... check out their "Hobbyist", "Locate A Pet Shop"
and "Catalog" pages where you can find out the inventory that Segrest Farms
has available for your local pet shop. Then you can ask your shop to order
that special species for you and they can't say "We don't carry it!")

Now back to my reply about associations and lobbyists...

http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1 (See link for Government
Affairs http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=91 which says,
"PIJAC is the industry's advocate with respect to governmental legislation
and regulations that affect the survival of the pet industry....", which
translates to... "We grease the palms of spineless politicians to keep the
laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.ornamental-fish-int.org/ (Which has on it's "Mission Statement"
page... "Close collaboration with governments, legislative bodies, other
political agencies..." which basically translates to.. "We grease the palms
of spineless politicians to keep the laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.aquariumcouncil.org/ Their "Government" page lists all kinds of
ways they are involved in various countries and even with the WTO (World
Trade Organization) so I'm sure they do some palm greasing as well.

You would have to look at each organizations budget, which should be
publicly available since they all proclaim to be non-profits, to see how
much they spend on "legislative affairs" or "lobbying efforts" (nice phrases
for "greasing the palms of spineless politicians").

The smaller mom/pop breeders may or may not belong to any of these which may
be why the mom/pop stores are falling by the wayside while the big retailers
are putting them out of business. Maybe the mom/pop stores need to join so
their voices will be heard and some of their money will find it's way into
the palms of the spineless politicians as well!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 7:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...


Lenny,
I was with you right up until the part about "fish breeding/importing
lobbyists".
I have never heard of this before.
I know many many many fish breeders and they don't have two cents to rub
together to pay for a lobbyist. Many of these same breeders also import fish
and let's just say, None of them are rich enough to hire lobbyists.

What am I missing?

As far as telling other store visitors, I have done that on occasion,
explaining that the 1 inch pleco will reach 15 inches in a couple years, and
that the Siamese algae eater the clerk recommended will start to feast on
the sides of thir fish in the near future. At one point I thought about
handing out business cards for my local aquarium society, but thought this
might earn me some legal trouble : )

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:03:16 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> writes:

Or better yet. Continue to visit the store often and complain loudly every
time you do. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. They don't want you
causing other customers to think badly of them. If you only boycott them,
that's one lost customer. If you complain loudly each visit, it multiplies
many times over. Spineless politicians will not do anything about this
until they think it will cost them enough votes to where their re-election
matters. The fish breeding/importing lobbyists are greasing the palms of
the mostly corrupt lawmakers anyhow so they will never change the laws until
enough voters complain. This will take a long time since so many voters are
so apathetic that it is pathetic! It's amazing how those words are so
similar. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22433 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768 pages in one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious Island in
English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than the
original read I did of the work.

For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues Under the
Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post conclusion of
20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22434 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
If you like references, you'll love my next one I just sent in response to
your "more questions" post. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


Lenny,
Thank you!
An excellent post with references!
I feel like I am back in college ;)

Smart use of the "Disposable" cartridge. I was lucky several years ago and
found some refillable cartridges for my 170 filters. I don't use carbon, but
use the filter floss to refill the cartridges, works great and I have not
had to buy a filter cartridge in years. One BIG bag of filter floss from the
fabric or craft store lasts me over a year for a couple dollars.

Mike


In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:24:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> writes:

Dr. Timothy Hovenac is one of the premiere experts in the field of
nitrifying bacteria. He and his team at Marineland developed the Bio-Wheel
technology and Bio-Spira. His works have been peer-reviewed and published.
If he says the Bio-Wheel works, I believe it!

http://www.marineland.com/science/nspira.asp
<http://www.marineland.com/science/nspira.asp>
http://www.marineland.com/science/dr_tim/drtims.asp
<http://www.marineland.com/science/dr_tim/drtims.asp>
http://www.marineland.com/science/biowheel.asp
<http://www.marineland.com/science/biowheel.asp>

Now, that said, there is a "business" reason for the development of the
Bio-Wheel and that is to sell more filter cartridges to new fish keepers.
By fully explaining to customers how the N-bacteria live on the Bio-Wheel
and filter pads, they can logically and safely explain that it is OK to
throw away the small carbon/polypad filter cartridge every couple of weeks
since they will not cause cycling issues in their tank because the Bio-Wheel
is not affected by the filter change.

I don't like using carbon (I do use Purigen though since it is reusable) and
I don't like throwing money away so all I did with my Bio-Wheel 200 is
modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. I have it as one of my filter systems on my
goldfish/pleco tank so I strive to keep ALL of my N-bacteria alive since I
don't need cycling issues with those heavy ammonia producing goldfish. Here
is my blog article with pictures showing how I have my Bio-Wheel set up and
how I clean/maintain it.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
<http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200
.>
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22435 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
I have been reading all the posts on the Bio Wheel and wanted some
opinions. Are Bio Wheels useless? They are the thing around here so
thats what we have. Should we be using something different? Any
opinions would be greatly appeciated.

Thanks,
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22436 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Bio Wheel filter, and HOB in general
Ok let's be honest. The Maryland Bio Wheel filter work, it remove ammonia
and nitrite, the pad transform also organic. Everyone will agree on it. But
it's the efficiency the problem, it's where the marketing of Maryland make
us believe than it achieve more than it actually perform. For the same
price you can have filter who perform more. It depends also in what you want
to achieve.

In a heavy planted tank the system is to avoid, the Wheel will release to
much CO2 out of the tank , what is the purpose to inject expensive gas if
the filter remove it.

In a hospital tank where the fish are not there enough to produce a heavy
load of organic it can be a good use

The Bio Wheel have a very good result when it's at the end of a external
filter, where you can bypass some water to slower the wheel.

It's not the only HOB with the same problem; they have all in general a too
fast flow to achieve high results.

The back of the tank is not use with efficiency, you can have a very long (
the full tank length ) filter attach outside at the back with even more
media inside than a canister one. It's look like company are not interested
in produce perfect HOB. A long HOB filter will have even enough place to put
the heater inside , it will be like a sump attach to the back of the tank.
Just imagine if the output of the filter will release a slow current of
water at all the surface length of the tank. You can even attach a 48" long
bio wheel ( ok divide in 3 maybe) at the output . enough I'm better to go
get a patent , may be a government aid.

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22437 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22438 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Any opinions or good one . :)

Let's say not as efficient as they look, as much as I hate the sale policy
of Hagen, better choose an aqua clear for about the same price , now if you
want to spend a little bit more or even put a loan on your house I have
some other suggestion ..


You say you have already one, may be it's enough efficient, what is the
setup of your tank,

Model of the filter ?
Other filter in the tank ?
Tank size ?
Gravel ?
Planted ?
Fish Load ? , what kind of fish ? the Size ?

Those are important factor to determine if the filter is good for the job.

Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de ipartyforfun
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:53
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Question: Bio Wheel or not?

I have been reading all the posts on the Bio Wheel and wanted some
opinions. Are Bio Wheels useless? They are the thing around here so
thats what we have. Should we be using something different? Any
opinions would be greatly appeciated.

Thanks,
Jennifer



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22439 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your computer if
you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this way. I've
never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available. Maybe some
of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles to see if
they are available for free on this site or one of the many other sites that
offer free e-books.

http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page

http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for Mysterious Island)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768 pages in
one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious Island in
English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than the
original read I did of the work.

For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues Under the
Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post conclusion of
20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22440 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1 hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22441 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
I use several different filter systems for several different manufacturers
including a Marineland 200 Bio-Wheel HOB system.

They all have their pluses and minuses.

Bio-Wheels are a good filter system especially for beginners, smaller tanks,
low bioload tanks and/or for people that don't mind throwing away the filter
cartridge every few weeks and replace it with a new one without ever having
to get their hands dirty or do any other filter maintenance and cleaning...
although you should still clean it good on a regular basis but at least you
can change out the filter cartridge every few weeks without getting dirty.

By leaving the Bio-Wheel alone, you do not completely trash your nitrifying
bacteria colony when you change out filter cartridges. Read the links I
provided including my blog link about how I maintain my Bio-Wheel filter
system. They are as good as most other HOB filter systems but HOB's are
best used on 55G or smaller tanks.

If you have a BIG tank or BIG and messy fish, then using a canister filter
which holds much more filter media is a better option. I have a canister
and an HOB on my goldfish/pleco tank. I think any 4' or longer tank should
probably have two filter systems to properly circulate and filter the water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question: Bio Wheel or not?

I have been reading all the posts on the Bio Wheel and wanted some opinions.
Are Bio Wheels useless? They are the thing around here so thats what we
have. Should we be using something different? Any opinions would be greatly
appeciated.

Thanks,
Jennifer

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22442 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Lenny .. Lenny.... I will understand some Google for fish issue. Read a
novel on a computer ????????? Have you ever try just before go to bed ,
just for relax , read a book, and when you tire enough you put the book on
the bed side table and close the light. Totally different.

10 years ago I was designing computer control for the petrochemical
industry. For get away of this stress situation I open a small computer
repair business (actually it give me more stress)what you want I get the
stupid idea to drop my chemical study to get a PHD in computer , it was more
cool at the time , anyway I can design you a complete fish room all
computerize. but in no way I will replace my book collection by PDF . I
have to get out of the technology time to time.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 23:14
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now
Mysterious Island book)

You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your computer if
you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this way. I've
never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available. Maybe some
of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles to see if
they are available for free on this site or one of the many other sites that
offer free e-books.

http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page

http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for Mysterious Island)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768 pages in
one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious Island in
English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than the
original read I did of the work.

For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues Under the
Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post conclusion of
20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book Iles
Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a French writer,
read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway, It
remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve results,
especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from nature.

I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same quantity of
soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After put a
stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness. If you
can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with of course
no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler for the
next time.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for the
mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with things
you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or faucet,
and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I know the
test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a given amount
of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and shake. If
no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until suds
develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness level.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like

I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
slat to use.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> How often should I add the salt.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks Steve
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of 7.0.
> The
> > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
and
> > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty hardy
> > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal seems
> to
> > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
least
> > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> long
> > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22443 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
"By leaving the Bio-Wheel alone, you do not completely trash your nitrifying
bacteria colony when you change out filter cartridges. "

-------- With an Aqua clear filter you don't throw anything , I use 2
sponges, I clean the one at the bottom in safe water, and rotate the sponge,
the cleanest one at top go to the bottom, I keep the bacterial intact .




" Read the links I
provided including my blog link about how I maintain my Bio-Wheel filter
system. They are as good as most other HOB filter systems but HOB's are
best used on 55G or smaller tanks."

---------------I give it an eye, nothing new, this technique is describe
every where . " copy and paste"


Lenny I made a quick calculation the volume of filtration medium in a
small Maryland filter is 203 square millimetre in a Aquaclear the same
capacity it's 175000 square millimetre . nearly 1000 times more I do not
count the bio wheel just the sponge and the filter media, because in this
comparison I'm concern only by the bacteria who transform the organic, waste
management

The Maryland have not enough organic waste management facility.

Dr. Maryland only about the bio wheel I see nothing about the rest of what a
filter is suppose to achieve .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22444 From: Jerry Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
" If you have a BIG tank or BIG and messy fish, then using a canister filter
which holds much more filter media is a better option. "

--------- I will use a pre filter ( a canister can do the job) and a
fluidized sand filter. A wet and dry filter is not bad too



. If you check on my fish room plan it's what I will use in my 2000 gal.
tank of 29 feet long . I will also add an algae scrubber and a constant
flow system to change 5 % of the water daily


http://www.aqualab.ca/fish_room/fish_room.htm



Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22445 From: rachelfloand4 Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Hi Jennifer:

I'm new to the group.

I am not an expert on the different types of filtration systems but
this much I know: I have an aquarium that has been set up for about
a year. I have a Penquin BioWheel on it. I have just done a series
of tests on the water quality of the tank. My ammonia and nitrite
levels were @ 0. Nitrate was @ 10. I also have a Mardel ammonia
cartridge that hangs in my tank at all times. It absolutely never
changes color. It is always @ 0. I would say that these numbers
speak for themselves. My Bio Wheel is doing exactly what it's
supposed to be doing. If you test your water quality and it always
measures out with acceptable numbers, this is what you should go by.
Why fix something that isn't broken?

You also must consider the maturity of the tank. Is it new? If it
is, your numbers may come out on the high side anyway. It would be
that way with any new filtration system.

I also have two Fluval canister filters that work well. I have used
submersibles and they also worked well until one started sending out
an electrical current through our turtle tank. Our turtle survived
but the three submersibles went directly into the trash.

So you see, I am not partial to any type of filtration system. I
just like them to be safe. They all have their place.

Test your tank. If your fish are healthy and your numbers are good,
keep your biowheel. If your numbers are high and your tank should
be matured, you may need to consider a higher volume biowheel or a
canister type filtration system. Canisters seem to me to be better
on tanks with more "load" than other types of filtration.

This is just based on my observations with my own tanks. Everyone
has their own setups. Observe yours, work out your bugs and you may
find that what works for you may not have worked for someone else.
What works for someone else may not work for you.

Rachel



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ipartyforfun" <Gittieup@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been reading all the posts on the Bio Wheel and wanted some
> opinions. Are Bio Wheels useless? They are the thing around here
so
> thats what we have. Should we be using something different? Any
> opinions would be greatly appeciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22446 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Lenny,
I guess I find the term "We grease the palms" a bit, no make that way over
the top in this case.

A majority of importers and the fish industry are not evil doers out to
commit heinous crimes. Greasing palms kind of comes across like they are doing
bad things and need to be sneaky.

There are CITES _http://www.cites.org/_ (http://www.cites.org/) agreements
that prevent many many unethical wild life transactions from occuring. Many
years ago I wanted to participate in a legal cites compliant consortium to
import rare endangered conures into the United States. No amount of palm
greasing to lobbyists would have made this any easier. A very black and white
case. You get all the permits, birds bred at Government approved private
breeding facilities in the country of origin, no wild birds to be exported PERIOD,
only their offspring. And the collection of the wild parents had to be
government sanctioned to just have the birds to breed with. A program with a lot
of government over sight in the country of origin. If you were able to
accomplish all of that and get the birds into the U.S. you had strict federal and
state wildlife rules to follow. All birds and their offspring numbered and
tracked. If I was able to get some of these offspring in the country and
succesfully bred them and wanted to sell one to you or give it to you, you would
have to get permits to own the birds.

Given the all out goal of animal rights activists like PETA and HSUS to end
pet ownership in the U.S. I would actually pay my own money to have lobbyists
work against these groups. These two groups have political lobbyists and
lawyers whose job it is to go out after the pet industry on the corporate
level, political level, and even you and I as private pet owners.

So many private pet breeders and pet owners are going to be losing a lot of
their rights when it comes to keeping pets from this point on it is scary.

If you want to make the statement that ALL lobbyists grease political palms
it is less offensive than the aquatic industry is greasing palms.

Sorry, I belong to a few groups that track PETA and the so called "Humane"
Society of the United States that it is scary what their motives really are.
If there are Lobbyists out there greasing palms for the pet industry WE NEED
THEM!

if you think I am over reacting please read the liks below.
_www.petakillsanimals.com_ (http://www.petakillsanimals.com)
_http://www.consumerfreedom.com/_ (http://www.consumerfreedom.com/)

Sincerely,
Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 7:37:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Mike,

I think most industries employ lobbyists to get laws passed or keep them
from getting passed. I'm not saying the individual breeders are doing it
but if they belong to some kind of association, I would speculate that the
association uses part of the membership fees to keep the laws in their
favor. It happens in EVERYTHING that happens around us.

Here is what I found with a few minutes of research.

There is a website for Segrest Farms
http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home which is a
major supplier to many retailers and they list the following associations on
their "Home" page. (BTW... check out their "Hobbyist", "Locate A Pet Shop"
and "Catalog" pages where you can find out the inventory that Segrest Farms
has available for your local pet shop. Then you can ask your shop to order
that special species for you and they can't say "We don't carry it!")

Now back to my reply about associations and lobbyists...

http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1 (See link for Government
Affairs http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=91 which says,
"PIJAC is the industry's advocate with respect to governmental legislation

and regulations that affect the survival of the pet industry....", which
translates to... "We grease the palms of spineless politicians to keep the
laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.ornamental-fish-int.org/ (Which has on it's "Mission Statement"
page... "Close collaboration with governments, legislative bodies, other
political agencies..." which basically translates to.. "We grease the palms
of spineless politicians to keep the laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.aquariumcouncil.org/ Their "Government" page lists all kinds of
ways they are involved in various countries and even with the WTO (World
Trade Organization) so I'm sure they do some palm greasing as well.

You would have to look at each organizations budget, which should be
publicly available since they all proclaim to be non-profits, to see how
much they spend on "legislative affairs" or "lobbying efforts" (nice phrases
for "greasing the palms of spineless politicians").

The smaller mom/pop breeders may or may not belong to any of these which may
be why the mom/pop stores are falling by the wayside while the big retailers
are putting them out of business. Maybe the mom/pop stores need to join so
their voices will be heard and some of their money will find it's way into
the palms of the spineless politicians as well!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22447 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Gerard,
Who were you replying to?

In a message dated 5/13/2007 7:19:14 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... writes:





"If, as in your example, someone in another country days he has perfected
fish as a weapon of mass destruction, wrote a paper and was able to
publish it without peer review, then his claims are very much suspect.
However, if they were published in a peer reviewed journal, they would
have passed the smell test and he would need to be taken on the basis of
his paper. Others would use that work to recreate what he has done, and,
perhaps, to improve upon it. "

Unless in the interest of the nation they keep secret the report who show
the existence of the Fish of mass destruction.the existence of the Fish of
the Mission is accomplish. It's a little bit politic or is it ??? it's
symbiosis after all,

As for the Penguin and Emperor filter they are a total lost of money,
better invest in some good real filter. I bought 30 X 20 gal tank in a huge
special, they came with a small Maryland filter, I will replace all them
with aqua clear 50 , I can sell them to you if you like . I can also
include few of the preset Maryland heater, what a good idea a heater you
can't adjust .

Gerard









************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22448 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Gerard,
Your English is just fine.

Thank you for taking the time to post your reply.

I recall last year you were starting your fish room, I am glad you are
continuing with it.
I have been using garage in the home I rent. I will be moving soon, hoping
to buy a home. I hope to make a more permanent fish room.

Looks like you have put a lot of thought into your design.

Thanks for sharing it.

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 5:41:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dataxpert@... writes:

I hope it's more clear I have hard time to express it in English

I building a fish room with over 100 tanks, all them mainly to experiment
filtration techniques, that's my dada

Here the work in construction , the last pics at the bottom was take 10
minutes ago in the semi-dark

_http://www.aqualab.http://www.aqhttp://wwwhtt_
(http://www.aqualab.ca/fish_room/fish_room.htm)

Gérard






************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22449 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/13/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Mike,

I didn't call the fish industry evil doers. Re-read what I wrote. The
spineless politicians are the evil doers. LOL

We shouldn't have to "pay" politicians a damn red cent for them to do their
jobs that they ran for and were elected to do. But the fact is that
spineless politicians get paid millions and millions of dollars from
lobbyists every year to pass or keep from passing special interest
legislation.

I own my own business and my basic attitude is get government off of my back
and out of my wallet and my world will be a better place.

As long as they want a piece of ever penny I earn, then I have to right to
invoke my first amendment rights and call them spineless politicians every
chance I get... and I do it often. LOL

Since this is a fish group and the question to me was about lobbyists in the
fish keeping industry, I pointed out the trade groups and how they interact
with government. As you probably know, whenever you "interact" with
government, it will cost you money, either directly or at the expense of
other taxpayers. Besides, I started my reply with "I think most industries
employ lobbyists to get laws passed or keep them from getting passed.", so
it was not pointed at only the fish keeping industry.

This question came up about dyed and tattooed fish. These same trade groups
that "grease the palms" also want these dyed and tattooed fish to stay legal
for their members. That was the gist of the original post.

As far as your bird importing attempt, you obviously didn't grease the right
palms. :-D

And in closing, believe me when I say that I am no fan of PETA or other
anti-human groups.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...

Lenny,
I guess I find the term "We grease the palms" a bit, no make that way over
the top in this case.

A majority of importers and the fish industry are not evil doers out to
commit heinous crimes. Greasing palms kind of comes across like they are
doing bad things and need to be sneaky.

There are CITES _http://www.cites.org/_ <http://www.cites.org/_>
(http://www.cites.org/ <http://www.cites.org/> ) agreements that prevent
many many unethical wild life transactions from occuring. Many years ago I
wanted to participate in a legal cites compliant consortium to import rare
endangered conures into the United States. No amount of palm greasing to
lobbyists would have made this any easier. A very black and white case. You
get all the permits, birds bred at Government approved private breeding
facilities in the country of origin, no wild birds to be exported PERIOD,
only their offspring. And the collection of the wild parents had to be
government sanctioned to just have the birds to breed with. A program with a
lot of government over sight in the country of origin. If you were able to
accomplish all of that and get the birds into the U.S. you had strict
federal and state wildlife rules to follow. All birds and their offspring
numbered and tracked. If I was able to get some of these offspring in the
country and succesfully bred them and wanted to sell one to you or give it
to you, you would have to get permits to own the birds.

Given the all out goal of animal rights activists like PETA and HSUS to end
pet ownership in the U.S. I would actually pay my own money to have
lobbyists work against these groups. These two groups have political
lobbyists and lawyers whose job it is to go out after the pet industry on
the corporate level, political level, and even you and I as private pet
owners.

So many private pet breeders and pet owners are going to be losing a lot of
their rights when it comes to keeping pets from this point on it is scary.

If you want to make the statement that ALL lobbyists grease political palms
it is less offensive than the aquatic industry is greasing palms.

Sorry, I belong to a few groups that track PETA and the so called "Humane"
Society of the United States that it is scary what their motives really are.

If there are Lobbyists out there greasing palms for the pet industry WE NEED
THEM!

if you think I am over reacting please read the liks below.
_www.petakillsanimals.com_ (http://www.petakillsanimals.com
<http://www.petakillsanimals.com> ) _http://www.consumerfreedom.com/_
<http://www.consumerfreedom.com/_> (http://www.consumerfreedom.com/
<http://www.consumerfreedom.com/> )

Sincerely,
Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 7:37:55 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> writes:

Mike,

I think most industries employ lobbyists to get laws passed or keep them
from getting passed. I'm not saying the individual breeders are doing it but
if they belong to some kind of association, I would speculate that the
association uses part of the membership fees to keep the laws in their
favor. It happens in EVERYTHING that happens around us.

Here is what I found with a few minutes of research.

There is a website for Segrest Farms
http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home
<http://www.segrestfarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home> which is a
major supplier to many retailers and they list the following associations on
their "Home" page. (BTW... check out their "Hobbyist", "Locate A Pet Shop"
and "Catalog" pages where you can find out the inventory that Segrest Farms
has available for your local pet shop. Then you can ask your shop to order
that special species for you and they can't say "We don't carry it!")

Now back to my reply about associations and lobbyists...

http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1
<http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=1> (See link for
Government Affairs http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=91
<http://www.pijac.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=91> which says, "PIJAC is
the industry's advocate with respect to governmental legislation

and regulations that affect the survival of the pet industry....", which
translates to... "We grease the palms of spineless politicians to keep the
laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.ornamental-fish-int.org/ <http://www.ornamental-fish-int.org/>
(Which has on it's "Mission Statement"
page... "Close collaboration with governments, legislative bodies, other
political agencies..." which basically translates to.. "We grease the palms
of spineless politicians to keep the laws in favor of our members.")

http://www.aquariumcouncil.org/ <http://www.aquariumcouncil.org/> Their
"Government" page lists all kinds of ways they are involved in various
countries and even with the WTO (World Trade Organization) so I'm sure they
do some palm greasing as well.

You would have to look at each organizations budget, which should be
publicly available since they all proclaim to be non-profits, to see how
much they spend on "legislative affairs" or "lobbying efforts" (nice phrases
for "greasing the palms of spineless politicians").

The smaller mom/pop breeders may or may not belong to any of these which may
be why the mom/pop stores are falling by the wayside while the big retailers
are putting them out of business. Maybe the mom/pop stores need to join so
their voices will be heard and some of their money will find it's way into
the palms of the spineless politicians as well!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date: 5/12/2007
6:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1 hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22451 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22452 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?
Hello Rachel I'm happy you have success with your tank, so you base your
success only on reading of nitrogen compound level to evaluate the filter.
Do you have gravel in the tank
Do you have Plants
What is your fish load , what kind and size of fish you have in the tank ?

It's funny to see only the nitrogen cycle monitor in results ???
About those results, first of all they are not tank where ammonia and
nitrite are at 0 , they always at some level. To low level than your
equipment can read , so the correct answer will be no reading . Talking
about reading do you change the refill in your live tester ?

I assume also the lower nitrate level is due to other think than the filter.


Why fix something who is not broken ??? fish leave in poor condition in the
tank, aside of Nitrogen compound you have a lot of chemical and microscopic
thing polluting the water, it's not only a matter of getting low Nitrogen
reading, it's a matter of make the environment more acceptable for the fish
as possible, and please in case the mortality rate of the tank is not the
only factor to judge the quality of the water

Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de rachelfloand4
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 00:13
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Question: Bio Wheel or not?

Hi Jennifer:

I'm new to the group.

I am not an expert on the different types of filtration systems but
this much I know: I have an aquarium that has been set up for about
a year. I have a Penquin BioWheel on it. I have just done a series
of tests on the water quality of the tank. My ammonia and nitrite
levels were @ 0. Nitrate was @ 10. I also have a Mardel ammonia
cartridge that hangs in my tank at all times. It absolutely never
changes color. It is always @ 0. I would say that these numbers
speak for themselves. My Bio Wheel is doing exactly what it's
supposed to be doing. If you test your water quality and it always
measures out with acceptable numbers, this is what you should go by.
Why fix something that isn't broken?

You also must consider the maturity of the tank. Is it new? If it
is, your numbers may come out on the high side anyway. It would be
that way with any new filtration system.

I also have two Fluval canister filters that work well. I have used
submersibles and they also worked well until one started sending out
an electrical current through our turtle tank. Our turtle survived
but the three submersibles went directly into the trash.

So you see, I am not partial to any type of filtration system. I
just like them to be safe. They all have their place.

Test your tank. If your fish are healthy and your numbers are good,
keep your biowheel. If your numbers are high and your tank should
be matured, you may need to consider a higher volume biowheel or a
canister type filtration system. Canisters seem to me to be better
on tanks with more "load" than other types of filtration.

This is just based on my observations with my own tanks. Everyone
has their own setups. Observe yours, work out your bugs and you may
find that what works for you may not have worked for someone else.
What works for someone else may not work for you.

Rachel



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ipartyforfun" <Gittieup@...>
wrote:
>
> I have been reading all the posts on the Bio Wheel and wanted some
> opinions. Are Bio Wheels useless? They are the thing around here
so
> thats what we have. Should we be using something different? Any
> opinions would be greatly appeciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22453 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: A question about skimmer
I gone ask a question, what is the use of a Skimmer in tank ?

Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22454 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
TY Lenny. I love to read and if I can skip the library with 6.5 kids
then I will do it.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your
computer if
> you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this
way. I've
> never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available.
Maybe some
> of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles to
see if
> they are available for free on this site or one of the many other
sites that
> offer free e-books.
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for Mysterious
Island)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768
pages in
> one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious
Island in
> English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than
the
> original read I did of the work.
>
> For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues
Under the
> Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post
conclusion of
> 20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book
Iles
> Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a
French writer,
> read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway,
It
> remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve
results,
> especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from
nature.
>
> I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same
quantity of
> soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After
put a
> stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness.
If you
> can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with
of course
> no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler
for the
> next time.
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for
the
> mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with
things
> you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or
faucet,
> and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I
know the
> test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a
given amount
> of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and
shake. If
> no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until
suds
> develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness
level.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
> slat to use.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > How often should I add the salt.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Steve
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of
7.0.
> > The
> > > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
> and
> > > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty
hardy
> > > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal
seems
> > to
> > > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
> least
> > > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> > long
> > > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > \\Steve//
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
memphisgirl39
> > > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > > >
> > > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date:
5/12/2007
> 6:40 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22455 From: Jerry Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Does not need to go anywhere, www.amazon.com a side putting some book in
the house can help more the kid than a computer. I'm pretty sure than a kid
who use in low age to book will have a better rate of success at Scholl.
Proof of it my 20 years old nephew stop is Scholl at 16 , but let me tell
you he do everything with is computer. Or let's say he can't do anything
without it .

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 08:08
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious
Island book)

TY Lenny. I love to read and if I can skip the library with 6.5 kids
then I will do it.

Mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your
computer if
> you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this
way. I've
> never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available.
Maybe some
> of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles to
see if
> they are available for free on this site or one of the many other
sites that
> offer free e-books.
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for Mysterious
Island)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768
pages in
> one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious
Island in
> English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than
the
> original read I did of the work.
>
> For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues
Under the
> Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post
conclusion of
> 20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy read.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book
Iles
> Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a
French writer,
> read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway,
It
> remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve
results,
> especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from
nature.
>
> I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same
quantity of
> soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After
put a
> stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam thickness.
If you
> can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with
of course
> no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler
for the
> next time.
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for
the
> mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with
things
> you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank or
faucet,
> and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I
know the
> test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a
given amount
> of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and
shake. If
> no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until
suds
> develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness
level.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount of
> slat to use.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > How often should I add the salt.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Steve
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of
7.0.
> > The
> > > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
> and
> > > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty
hardy
> > > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal
seems
> > to
> > > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
> least
> > > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> > long
> > > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > \\Steve//
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
memphisgirl39
> > > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > > >
> > > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date:
5/12/2007
> 6:40 PM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22456 From: cichlidtanks Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Hi , newbie here
I have just started collecting different African Cichlids for my 55
gallon tank. Can someone tell me how to tell male from female? thanks,
Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22457 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: carbon or no carbon (was:How much oxygen do you need in a ten gall
So, would a plain empty filter work better? --- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> So if they release back they will catch other
> You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the
chemical
> absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of
various
> molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in
more
> dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to
remove a
> medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the
aquarium.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter
only you can
> run for near 3 hours ,
>
> But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use
often after 1
> hour.
>
> But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they
become a
> good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity
they
> have in the cartridge)
>
> By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
> phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after
a couple
> of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge
which I
> can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media
bag in my
> other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable
and
> starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so
you know
> when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in
filter
> cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae
issues for
> people with non-planted tanks.
>
> I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the
event of a
> failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if
the power
> goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time,
hopefully I
> will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
> biofilter media from dying.
>
> I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from
several
> years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps
my tanks
> from ever having cycling issues.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
>
> " modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section
that holds
> the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the
cartridge over
> and over and over. "
>
> Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for
the
> bacteria .
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22458 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Makes sense to me, I think my prob is finances more than anything.
And trust me, we have more books than the law allows! From baby to
maybe 7th grade level. Not sure if they all get read but they sure
do get put on the floor when kids are looking for somehting to read.
As for the computer, well, they arn't allowed to get on except as a
reward for doing what is suppose to be done.

mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> Does not need to go anywhere, www.amazon.com a side putting some
book in
> the house can help more the kid than a computer. I'm pretty sure
than a kid
> who use in low age to book will have a better rate of success at
Scholl.
> Proof of it my 20 years old nephew stop is Scholl at 16 , but let
me tell
> you he do everything with is computer. Or let's say he can't do
anything
> without it .
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Memrie
> Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 08:08
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now
Mysterious
> Island book)
>
> TY Lenny. I love to read and if I can skip the library with 6.5
kids
> then I will do it.
>
> Mem
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your
> computer if
> > you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this
> way. I've
> > never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available.
> Maybe some
> > of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles
to
> see if
> > they are available for free on this site or one of the many other
> sites that
> > offer free e-books.
> >
> > http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page
> >
> > http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for
Mysterious
> Island)
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768
> pages in
> > one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Jerry
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
> > AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious
> Island in
> > English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better
than
> the
> > original read I did of the work.
> >
> > For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000
Leagues
> Under the
> > Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post
> conclusion of
> > 20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy
read.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Jerry
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne
Book
> Iles
> > Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a
> French writer,
> > read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French
anyway,
> It
> > remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve
> results,
> > especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from
> nature.
> >
> > I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same
> quantity of
> > soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . .
After
> put a
> > stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam
thickness.
> If you
> > can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water
with
> of course
> > no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler
> for the
> > next time.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
> > AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for
> the
> > mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do
with
> things
> > you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank
or
> faucet,
> > and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I
> know the
> > test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a
> given amount
> > of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and
> shake. If
> > no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until
> suds
> > develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness
> level.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount
of
> > slat to use.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> > >
> > > How often should I add the salt.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
> <dctn_2005@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Thanks Steve
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of
> 7.0.
> > > The
> > > > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both
guppies
> > and
> > > > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty
> hardy
> > > > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal
> seems
> > > to
> > > > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
> > least
> > > > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a
very
> > > long
> > > > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > \\Steve//
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
> memphisgirl39
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > > > >
> > > > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date:
> 5/12/2007
> > 6:40 PM
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22459 From: Memrie Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
-See which one lays the eggs? LOL I am so sorry, I could not resist!
My playful side is out and scaring people today. LOL

Mem
PS I know not very helpful.

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cichlidtanks" <cichlidtanks@...>
wrote:
>
> I have just started collecting different African Cichlids for my 55
> gallon tank. Can someone tell me how to tell male from female?
thanks,
> Karen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22460 From: Gérard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: what temp and ph do the fish like (now Mysterious Island book)
Lenny I download it , it's a very short version, only 370 pages

Now those book available for download, are old one, the one who are
not copywriter anymore, I'm not sure you can found something
interesting in very old and obsolete book about aquarium. Aside of
an interest in how they was practicing the hobby in the past ( I
like read some old one time to time) but I put aquarium in the
search to see nothing come up .

Gerard

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You can download and read "Mysterious Island" for free on your
computer if
> you like. Thousands of classic books are available for free this
way. I've
> never researched to see if any fish keeping books are available.
Maybe some
> of you avid fish book readers can check out your favorite titles
to see if
> they are available for free on this site or one of the many other
sites that
> offer free e-books.
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page
>
> http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1268 (Download page for Mysterious
Island)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I just looked it up at amazon, and the version I just read is 768
pages in
> one volume. It is a bit hefty <g>.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 10:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Long book ??? in French it's 2 volumes
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:02 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Funny, I just reread that book in the past year. It is Mysterious
Island in
> English, and it was a relatively new translation, much better than
the
> original read I did of the work.
>
> For those of you only familiar with Jules Verne via 20,000 Leagues
Under the
> Sea, Captain Nemo and the Nautilus make an appearance post
conclusion of
> 20,000 Leagues. While it is a fairly long book, it is an easy
read.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 9:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> Steve , When I read this post you remember me the Jules Verne Book
Iles
> Mysterieuse" sorry I do not know the title in English, it's a
French writer,
> read it in English will be like read Shakespeare in French anyway,
It
> remember me the engineer who always have simple way to achieve
results,
> especially the way he explode a rock with Nitro he home made from
nature.
>
> I remember in an demonstration I organize I was using the same
quantity of
> soap in few test tube with water with different hardness . . After
put a
> stopper and shake the test tube I was measuring the foam
thickness. If you
> can use a high water with know hardness and a distilled water with
of course
> no hardness, you can repeat this experience an calibrate a ruler
for the
> next time.
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 21:18 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> With a pH that high, your water is probably sufficiently hard for
the
> mollies and guppies. There is a fairly simple test you can do with
things
> you have on hand at your home, a container, water from your tank
or faucet,
> and liquid dishwashing detergent. I forget the specifics, but I
know the
> test can be found on the web. The gist of it is that you take a
given amount
> of water and place in the container. Add a drop of detergent and
shake. If
> no suds develop, add another drop and shake again. Continue until
suds
> develop. Each drop of detergent used indicates a certain hardness
level.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:19 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
>
> I dont know. I cant get the ph below 7.9 or 7.8
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > How hard is your water? This would have a bearing on the amount
of
> slat to use.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 6:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: what temp and ph do the fish like
> >
> > How often should I add the salt.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "memphisgirl39"
<dctn_2005@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks Steve
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Steve Szabo" <steve@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The fish you mention would prefer a pH on the plus side of
7.0.
> > The
> > > also like water that has a higher mineral content. Both guppies
> and
> > > mollies will appreciate some salt added. Guppies are pretty
hardy
> > > fish with a temperature range from 60-90°, though the ideal
seems
> > to
> > > be in the lower 70's. Mollies prefer warmer temperatures, at
> least
> > > the upper 70's, and I'm not sure on the platys--its been a very
> > long
> > > time since I have kept anyplaties.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > \\Steve//
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
memphisgirl39
> > > > Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 11:34 PM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] what temp and ph do the fish like
> > > >
> > > > mollys, platys, and guppys, Are the hardy fish.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/801 - Release Date:
5/12/2007
> 6:40 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22461 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: carbon or no carbon (was:How much oxygen do you need in a ten
Ok I unregistered and register back with my full name

What do you means by plain filter ? Usually a filter is use to remove
mechanically some waste, now you can add some biological function, first the
filter can use specialized bacteria to transform the waste in chemical.
After you can absorb few chemical with something ( charcoal is an example)
You can also give in the filter a substrate for hold Nitrifying bacteria who
at the end of the process will transform the ammonia in less toxic nitrate
.
But too much often people when they think about filter they think only
mechanical, chemical and only a parts of the way to biologically remove the
waste, if you do not transform the waste in chemical the nitrifying bacteria
can not work.

The charcoal, I think people exaggerate the use and danger of the products.
Charcoal have limitation when it's saturate it's not absorbing anything at
all, and if a saturate charcoal is left in the tank, aside of the impurity
in the charcoal , the few thing it will release back , was already in the
tank. But a full bag of charcoal when it's not absorbing anymore, can give
a good substrate to the bacteria.

DO you really need charcoal, A new charcoal can remove some chemical, but
not all them, nothing than can not be achieve with regular water change,
plants also absorb chemical and waste, when you prune them you remove also
the bad stuff from the tank. Charcoal is at best to remove odours, it will
not remove dangerous metal.


Gérard Gagnon




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 11:08
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] carbon or no carbon (was:How much oxygen do you need
in a ten gallon)

So, would a plain empty filter work better? --- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry " <dataxpert@...> wrote:
>
> So if they release back they will catch other
> You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the
chemical
> absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Steve Szabo
> Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of
various
> molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in
more
> dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to
remove a
> medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the
aquarium.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter
only you can
> run for near 3 hours ,
>
> But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use
often after 1
> hour.
>
> But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they
become a
> good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity
they
> have in the cartridge)
>
> By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
> phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
> The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after
a couple
> of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge
which I
> can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media
bag in my
> other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable
and
> starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so
you know
> when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in
filter
> cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae
issues for
> people with non-planted tanks.
>
> I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the
event of a
> failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if
the power
> goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time,
hopefully I
> will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
> biofilter media from dying.
>
> I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from
several
> years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps
my tanks
> from ever having cycling issues.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jerry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten
gallon
>
>
> " modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section
that holds
> the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the
cartridge over
> and over and over. "
>
> Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for
the
> bacteria .
>
> Gerard
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22462 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
You have some generality, but it's more specific to each species, the best
is to get info on website where they show description of the fish. If you
put the name of the fish in Google you will find a lot of those sites. I
do not know African Cichlid, but some species are very hard to distinguish.
An Oscar a south American Cichlid is an example.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Memrie
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 11:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Hi , newbie here

-See which one lays the eggs? LOL I am so sorry, I could not resist!
My playful side is out and scaring people today. LOL

Mem
PS I know not very helpful.

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cichlidtanks" <cichlidtanks@...>
wrote:
>
> I have just started collecting different African Cichlids for my 55
> gallon tank. Can someone tell me how to tell male from female?
thanks,
> Karen
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22463 From: Paul Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Any ideas?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
What size tank? Hope it's big!

Here is what Mongabay profile, http://fish.mongabay.com/knifefish.htm
(scroll down near the bottom for the Clown Knifefish) says about "Species
Compatibility":

SC : Arowana, Bichir, Oscar, Cichlasomines, Pimelodids, Loricarids, Asian
Catfish, GiantGourami

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 3:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?

Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Any ideas?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/803 - Release Date: 5/13/2007
12:17 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22465 From: larry thielen jr. Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
malawi cichlids and both mouth and egg layers
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of larry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 5:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
> fry
>
>
>
> my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while
> but was wondering
> what are the signs of breeding and how long does it
> take for the fry
> to hatch?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22466 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
Mouth brooders are egg layers, it is just that mouth brooders will
take the eggs in their mouth untill they hatch and after they are free
swimmers they will seek the protection of the mouth until they are too
large to fit into the mouth, even then they will try to get back in.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "larry thielen jr."
<luckyboi3200@...> wrote:
>
> malawi cichlids and both mouth and egg layers
> --- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> > Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22467 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Fungus
Jerry,

It's actually called Fungus Clear, made by Jungle. I have used their product Ick Clear several times and it has worked. Or maybe it hasn't and me increaing the heat did it. Their website is www.junglelabs.com they say contact them for a free fish care chart.

Keri


Jerry <dataxpert@...> wrote:
Fungus Away, can not find anything about it, is it the good name ??? who
manufacture it ???

Thanks

Gérard






---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22468 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Hi , newbie here
Which species? If dimorphic, you can tell by color. If monomorphic,
venting or seeing a female holding is the only way with 100% certainty.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cichlidtanks
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 10:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Hi , newbie here



I have just started collecting different African Cichlids for my 55
gallon tank. Can someone tell me how to tell male from female? thanks,
Karen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22469 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
I only know mouth brooders. The eggs gradually develop into fry (grow eyes
and tails, etc.) inside the mother’s mouth rather than hatch. They are held
in the mother’s mouth for about 3 weeks depending, less at higher temps and
longer if the mother feels the babies will not be safe if released.



Unfortunately, signs of breeding are the same as signs of aggression.
Swimming in circles, head to tail. Another sign is one fish shimmying for
another. They start as fry, so it doesn’t mean breeding is imminent.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of larry thielen jr.
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 5:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry



malawi cichlids and both mouth and egg layers
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net>
.net> wrote:

> Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of larry
> Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 5:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
> fry
>
>
>
> my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while
> but was wondering
> what are the signs of breeding and how long does it
> take for the fry
> to hatch?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>

__________________________________________________________Boardwalk for
$500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's
economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games
<http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow>
yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22470 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: Hi , newbie here
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22471 From: christian_girl77 Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Great macroalgae website
Hi all,
I found a great website for macroalgae. It's called Gulf Coast
Ecosystems at www.live-plants.com.

Deeann
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22472 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22473 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: A question about skimmer
Skimmers are primarily a marine keeper's tool. They remove Dissolved Organic Carbons (DOC) from the tank water. For the most part, they cannot be successfully used in freshwater, since the surface tension differs from slat water, and they become ineffective, unless there is a very high concentration of DOC for some reason. Water changes are the preferred method for removing DOC's in Freshwater.

Unless you are talking about pond skimmers, which are another animal entirely. Their function is to remove larger items from the water, mostly from the surface, or slightly below the surface, of the water before they have a chance to gum up the pump or filter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A question about skimmer

I gone ask a question, what is the use of a Skimmer in tank ?

Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22474 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22475 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
That's all you need to know here to be able to give Larry a fairly
complete answer, as there are no substrate spawning Cichlids in Lake
Malawi. It does appear as if Larry means "substrate spawners" rather
than "egg layers" in this context; just a matter of semantics as
is "hatching" vs. "developing," where it just depends on where the
eggs develop. It only depends on where they develop and hatch -- on
the substrate or in a mother's mouth. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I only know mouth brooders. The eggs gradually develop into fry
(grow eyes
> and tails, etc.) inside the mother's mouth rather than hatch. They
are held
> in the mother's mouth for about 3 weeks depending, less at higher
temps and
> longer if the mother feels the babies will not be safe if
released.
>
>
>
> Unfortunately, signs of breeding are the same as signs of
aggression.
> Swimming in circles, head to tail. Another sign is one fish
shimmying for
> another. They start as fry, so it doesn't mean breeding is
imminent.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of larry thielen jr.
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 5:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
>
>
>
> malawi cichlids and both mouth and egg layers
> --- Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%
40optonline.net>
> .net> wrote:
>
> > Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of larry
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 5:08 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
> > fry
> >
> >
> >
> > my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while
> > but was wondering
> > what are the signs of breeding and how long does it
> > take for the fry
> > to hatch?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________Boardwalk
for
> $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for
today's
> economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games
> <http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow>
> yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22476 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Why it's important to change often the pad in a Maryland Filter (
Thank you Steve , The skimmer do not remove only the DOC it remove all
organic waste, we know than organic waste will eventually transform in
nitrate, in marine tank nitrate as to be avoid .

So where I go , in the freshwater, if you can't use a skimmer you have to do
something with the organic waste, so you have to make sure your filter is
able to proceed them , unless you remove them often, So if you live the pad
in the Maryland Filter without cleaning it often or change it, you live the
waste untreated ,since the mass is not sufficient to proceed them . it's why
with those filter it's important to clean I will say every week.

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:55
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] A question about skimmer

Skimmers are primarily a marine keeper's tool. They remove Dissolved Organic
Carbons (DOC) from the tank water. For the most part, they cannot be
successfully used in freshwater, since the surface tension differs from slat
water, and they become ineffective, unless there is a very high
concentration of DOC for some reason. Water changes are the preferred method
for removing DOC's in Freshwater.

Unless you are talking about pond skimmers, which are another animal
entirely. Their function is to remove larger items from the water, mostly
from the surface, or slightly below the surface, of the water before they
have a chance to gum up the pump or filter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] A question about skimmer

I gone ask a question, what is the use of a Skimmer in tank ?

Gérard


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22477 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
It's came back to what I said to an other post, people make exaggeration of
the danger or use of Activated Carbon.

Here the simple facts to need to know

1- Activated Carbon is efficient until it's sutured, it's not count in
hours or day , the more thing contain in the water the less time the carbon
will be efficient

2- Living Carbon in a tank is not dangerous. When it's saturated it's stop
to absorb, and even if some resorbtion appear it will be the same stuff who
was already in the tank. Actually a lot of people do it they fill a
compartment of a canister filter with charcoal, and live it there and only
rinse it , they use it first to clarify the water and after as substrate for
the bacteria


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard Gagnon
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 23:30
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22478 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
I thought the substrate spawners were not in Lake Malawi, but wasn’t 100%
sure so I left that part out. Thanks Ray! Larry, what kind do you have? I
have Demasoni, Yellow Labs, Red Zebras, Socolofi, Acei and Synodontis
Petricola (Lucipinnis?) in a 125G…and some to spare in a 38G and assorted
fry in a 10G. I love them!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry



That's all you need to know here to be able to give Larry a fairly
complete answer, as there are no substrate spawning Cichlids in Lake
Malawi. It does appear as if Larry means "substrate spawners" rather
than "egg layers" in this context; just a matter of semantics as
is "hatching" vs. "developing," where it just depends on where the
eggs develop. It only depends on where they develop and hatch -- on
the substrate or in a mother's mouth. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I only know mouth brooders. The eggs gradually develop into fry
(grow eyes
> and tails, etc.) inside the mother's mouth rather than hatch. They
are held
> in the mother's mouth for about 3 weeks depending, less at higher
temps and
> longer if the mother feels the babies will not be safe if
released.
>
>
>
> Unfortunately, signs of breeding are the same as signs of
aggression.
> Swimming in circles, head to tail. Another sign is one fish
shimmying for
> another. They start as fry, so it doesn't mean breeding is
imminent.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of larry thielen jr.
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 5:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] RE: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and fry
>
>
>
> malawi cichlids and both mouth and egg layers
> --- Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%
40optonline.net>
> .net> wrote:
>
> > Malawi or Tang? Mouthbrooders or egg layers?
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of larry
> > Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 5:08 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] cichlid breeding and
> > fry
> >
> >
> >
> > my africans wont be ready for breeding for a while
> > but was wondering
> > what are the signs of breeding and how long does it
> > take for the fry
> > to hatch?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________Boardwalk
for
> $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for
today's
> economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games
> <http://get.games
<http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow>
yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow>
> yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22479 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: update on cloudy water
Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My tank
has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple more
days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days. The
question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my live
plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a very
small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I had
availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank becoming
super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure everyone
was still with me and then I turned it back off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22480 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of bacteria
or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights off
has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been algae,
although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria. Keeping the
lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your live
plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation, unless
you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along with
your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you to
thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off for
a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.

Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of too
much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from a
variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish food or
as excess ammonia in your tap water.

A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will point to
where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done, and
your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should go a
long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as outlined,
seems well in order.

Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is what
it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's what it
is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting schedule is
resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your plants
will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity and/or
duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the presence
of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants) with
still too much light.

No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most green
water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in suspension.
Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of a "UV"
(ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with the
use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which will
starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination with
watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not seem to
be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates have
the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As they
grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for smaller
(or other) specimens. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My
tank
> has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple
more
> days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days. The
> question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my
live
> plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
> totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a very
> small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I had
> availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank becoming
> super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure everyone
> was still with me and then I turned it back off.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22481 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will produce a
green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what can produce
brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one recently ???


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water

Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My tank
has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple more
days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days. The
question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my live
plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a very
small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I had
availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank becoming
super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure everyone
was still with me and then I turned it back off.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22482 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water change and
filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if it's green,
brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing

But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand well , the
one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long time therapy
,

, I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .

Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard Gagnon
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water

In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will produce a
green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what can produce
brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one recently ???


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water

Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My tank
has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple more
days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days. The
question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my live
plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a very
small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I had
availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank becoming
super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure everyone
was still with me and then I turned it back off.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22483 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Banana Plant
I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.



Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.



Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?



Thanks in advance for yalls replies



-Steve



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22484 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.



Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.



Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?



Thanks in advance for yalls replies



-Steve



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22485 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I
tested my tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0,
nitrate-10. Then I tested my well water and the results are ammonia-
.25, nitrite-0, nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that
suggestion and it seemed to work alittle so I left them off alittle
longer hoping that it would clear up but it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the
plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22486 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22487 From: ronno971 Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Maryland filter pad question
Hey Lenny,

Sorry to be a pain if you already answered this question. I am trying
to figure out how to re-use the Maryland Filter pads.

I understand cutting the back to remove the carbon while keeping the
integrity of the frame. After that, do you fill the inside of the
cartridge with the floss or do you wrap it or a combination of both?

I have a 55 gallon planted tank with mostly live bearers, tetras, etc.
with an Emperor 400 filter and re-using the pads would be great! It
would free up more money for my 155 gallon discus tank.

Thanks for you advice.

Ron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22488 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
I tried your advice Gerard and done a small water change filtering
through a coffee filter and after doing that the filter had no color
on it at all. So If this isn't algae how do I fix it?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water
change and
> filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if
it's green,
> brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing
>
> But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand
well , the
> one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long
time therapy
> ,
>
> , I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Gerard Gagnon
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
>
> In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
produce a
> green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
can produce
> brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
recently ???
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
>
> Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My
tank
> has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple
more
> days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days.
The
> question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my
live
> plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
> totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> was still with me and then I turned it back off.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22489 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
No I have not added any driftwood. All I have in the tank are live
plants and a cave decoration.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
produce a
> green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
can produce
> brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
recently ???
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
>
> Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My
tank
> has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple
more
> days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days.
The
> question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my
live
> plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
> totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> was still with me and then I turned it back off.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22490 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I
tested my tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0,
nitrate-10. Then I tested my well water and the results are ammonia-
.25, nitrite-0, nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that
suggestion and it seemed to work alittle so I left them off alittle
longer hoping that it would clear up but it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the
plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22491 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22492 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question
Ron I will live the answer on the pad to Lenny, I'm more interested in
your plants, if you have enough plants in the tank, and they are fast
grower, and you prune them often, the kind of filtration you use is less
important because when you prune the leave you remove a lot of waste from
the tank, the waste your filter do not remove will go in the gravel and
true the root in the leaves. I'm preparing a page on my filtration by
plants. If you do not have fast growing plants, grap few hygrophilia
polysperma, put them at the back, you will still need a filter to move the
water of course.

I have a tank here with sturisoma and Farlowella, and few dozen of neon
tetra and other tetra than I do not have made a water change since 8 month
now, My Farlowella and sturisoma spam like hell, and they need good quality
water those fish. , I remove in weight more leaves of Hygro than I put food
in the tank.


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de ronno971
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Maryland filter pad question

Hey Lenny,

Sorry to be a pain if you already answered this question. I am trying
to figure out how to re-use the Maryland Filter pads.

I understand cutting the back to remove the carbon while keeping the
integrity of the frame. After that, do you fill the inside of the
cartridge with the floss or do you wrap it or a combination of both?

I have a 55 gallon planted tank with mostly live bearers, tetras, etc.
with an Emperor 400 filter and re-using the pads would be great! It
would free up more money for my 155 gallon discus tank.

Thanks for you advice.

Ron




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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22493 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
I use a well too, I have few bacteria in my well, good one, at 99,5% of the
time they do not create a bloom in the tank, when it happen if it's only few
I do nothing ( in your case the fact you said you do not see it from the
front but only from the side ( more length) make be believe than it's few)
in severe case I will use my diatom filter , Those floating bacteria will
disappear because they can not create a biofilm to protect them, but if they
came from your well and the condition of your well water do not improve ,
every time you will made a water change it can happen, I do not like remand
using UV or Diatom for an extended period , they remove also good thing for
the tank, I use them , a diatom filter is the best Ich medicine, As I said
made your well analyse by a real laboratory, not a plumber store , bring it
to the laboratory, and after when you go get the result talk with the
microbiologist , That's is in the interest of you fish but more in you
interest too.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:00
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I tried your advice Gerard and done a small water change filtering
through a coffee filter and after doing that the filter had no color
on it at all. So If this isn't algae how do I fix it?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water
change and
> filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if
it's green,
> brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing
>
> But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand
well , the
> one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long
time therapy
> ,
>
> , I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Gerard Gagnon
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
>
> In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
produce a
> green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
can produce
> brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
recently ???
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
>
> Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem. My
tank
> has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a couple
more
> days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4 days.
The
> question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on my
live
> plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still not
> totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> was still with me and then I turned it back off.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22494 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
If it was my well why would it only affect one tank instead of all
of them?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I use a well too, I have few bacteria in my well, good one, at
99,5% of the
> time they do not create a bloom in the tank, when it happen if
it's only few
> I do nothing ( in your case the fact you said you do not see it
from the
> front but only from the side ( more length) make be believe than
it's few)
> in severe case I will use my diatom filter , Those floating
bacteria will
> disappear because they can not create a biofilm to protect them,
but if they
> came from your well and the condition of your well water do not
improve ,
> every time you will made a water change it can happen, I do not
like remand
> using UV or Diatom for an extended period , they remove also good
thing for
> the tank, I use them , a diatom filter is the best Ich medicine,
As I said
> made your well analyse by a real laboratory, not a plumber
store , bring it
> to the laboratory, and after when you go get the result talk with
the
> microbiologist , That's is in the interest of you fish but more in
you
> interest too.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:00
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water
>
> I tried your advice Gerard and done a small water change filtering
> through a coffee filter and after doing that the filter had no
color
> on it at all. So If this isn't algae how do I fix it?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water
> change and
> > filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if
> it's green,
> > brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing
> >
> > But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand
> well , the
> > one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long
> time therapy
> > ,
> >
> > , I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Gerard Gagnon
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
> produce a
> > green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
> can produce
> > brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
> recently ???
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de friendtoallfish
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days.
> The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
> very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
> had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
> becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
> everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22495 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
I search for info about the acceptance in drinking water for the US I found
this info on the EPA web site, they have also a tool free number

" EPAs Safe Drinking Water Hotline: (800) 426-4791 "


" Excessive levels of nitrate in drinking water have caused serious illness
and sometimes death. The serious illness in infants is due to the conversion
of nitrate to nitrite by the body, which can interfere with the
oxygen-carrying capacity of the childs blood. This can be an acute condition
in which health deteriorates rapidly over a period of days. Symptoms include
shortness of breath and blueness of the skin.

Long-term: Nitrates and nitrites have the potential to cause the following
effects from a lifetime exposure at levels above the MCL: diuresis,
increased starchy deposits and hemorrhaging of the spleen. "


Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22496 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Different tank different scenario. Now I give my opinion, for what you
told me , your well is may be a risk and not only for the fish . If you
want a recommendation, it's time to consult a qualify lab in water analysis.
I will not say more, I'm not microbiologist, and even do I can not true a
post make a water analysis and tell you if you well is safe or not. If you
live in rural place with farm around, you can have surprise.


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

If it was my well why would it only affect one tank instead of all
of them?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I use a well too, I have few bacteria in my well, good one, at
99,5% of the
> time they do not create a bloom in the tank, when it happen if
it's only few
> I do nothing ( in your case the fact you said you do not see it
from the
> front but only from the side ( more length) make be believe than
it's few)
> in severe case I will use my diatom filter , Those floating
bacteria will
> disappear because they can not create a biofilm to protect them,
but if they
> came from your well and the condition of your well water do not
improve ,
> every time you will made a water change it can happen, I do not
like remand
> using UV or Diatom for an extended period , they remove also good
thing for
> the tank, I use them , a diatom filter is the best Ich medicine,
As I said
> made your well analyse by a real laboratory, not a plumber
store , bring it
> to the laboratory, and after when you go get the result talk with
the
> microbiologist , That's is in the interest of you fish but more in
you
> interest too.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:00
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water
>
> I tried your advice Gerard and done a small water change filtering
> through a coffee filter and after doing that the filter had no
color
> on it at all. So If this isn't algae how do I fix it?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water
> change and
> > filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if
> it's green,
> > brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing
> >
> > But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand
> well , the
> > one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long
> time therapy
> > ,
> >
> > , I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Gerard Gagnon
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
> produce a
> > green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
> can produce
> > brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
> recently ???
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de friendtoallfish
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days.
> The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
> very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
> had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
> becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
> everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22497 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Is this your largest tank? If so then you may be only able to see
this discoloration through the longer length of the tank or the
lighting conditions of that tank will allow you to see it better in
that tank.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> If it was my well why would it only affect one tank instead of all
> of them?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I use a well too, I have few bacteria in my well, good one, at
> 99,5% of the
> > time they do not create a bloom in the tank, when it happen if
> it's only few
> > I do nothing ( in your case the fact you said you do not see it
> from the
> > front but only from the side ( more length) make be believe than
> it's few)
> > in severe case I will use my diatom filter , Those floating
> bacteria will
> > disappear because they can not create a biofilm to protect them,
> but if they
> > came from your well and the condition of your well water do not
> improve ,
> > every time you will made a water change it can happen, I do not
> like remand
> > using UV or Diatom for an extended period , they remove also
good
> thing for
> > the tank, I use them , a diatom filter is the best Ich medicine,
> As I said
> > made your well analyse by a real laboratory, not a plumber
> store , bring it
> > to the laboratory, and after when you go get the result talk
with
> the
> > microbiologist , That's is in the interest of you fish but more
in
> you
> > interest too.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22498 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Thanks for the info and the website. Think I’m going to go get a couple
more. Finally found another interesting plant that my pleco doesn’t bother.
Should see if I can find another Thai Onion also. Like the way they twist.
But yea, like the idea of large broad leaves. Sure the dwarf frogs and
shrimp would like some “high ground” to sit on. I’ll knock off a couple of
the larger leaves when I get home and secure it at the base of the wood with
the anubias.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.


Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22499 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
Ron,

I bought a large pack of polypad filter media from my local PetsMart which
looks like this...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=4231&N=2004+11
3808. If you have a PetsMart nearby, check their online prices first and
print out the page. The local store will match the online price when you
present the printed page at the checkout. I normally save 25% - 50% off of
shelf prices this way.

I then cut pieces to fit my filter systems as needed. My blog article on my
Marineland Bio-Wheel 200,
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
html, shows how I have the extra polypad material inserted just before the
Marineland cartridge so that this thicker dual-density polypad catches the
majority of the detritus so the little thin blue polypad in the filter
cartridge stays cleaner longer so it does not clog up every couple of days
like they otherwise do... or at least it would on my goldfish/pleco tank.

The article also shows how I add a piece of the filter media rolled up like
a cigar and stick it in the semi-circle overflow cut-out so that the water
is forced to go through the filter pads and then over them if they get
clogged, which keeps the bio-wheel spinning for bio-filtration. Otherwise,
if the pads get clogged and the water starts overflowing back into your tank
through the overflow cut-out, there may not be enough water to keep the
bio-wheel spinning. Once again, I think this cut-out was engineered into
the filter so that people would be forced to change their filter cartridges
frequently, which isn't a bad thing if you want to spend the money but I
prefer to keep my duckies in my wallet! :D

I know you asked about "wrapping" the cartridge with the filter polypad and
I guess that could be done with some filter systems but the cartridges fit
pretty tight in the slots on my model.

Another thing that could be done, which I haven't done on my Marineland
Bio-Wheel, since it's a secondary filter system on my tank, is to add a
block of large pore filter sponge into the reservoir which would catch any
of the bigger stuff like plant matter, before it has a chance to clog up the
pads. This sponge would also be another home for a lot of good nitrifying
bacteria and the sponge could easily be squeezed clean in some removed tank
water each week.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ronno971
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 9:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Maryland filter pad question

Hey Lenny,

Sorry to be a pain if you already answered this question. I am trying to
figure out how to re-use the Maryland Filter pads.

I understand cutting the back to remove the carbon while keeping the
integrity of the frame. After that, do you fill the inside of the cartridge
with the floss or do you wrap it or a combination of both?

I have a 55 gallon planted tank with mostly live bearers, tetras, etc.
with an Emperor 400 filter and re-using the pads would be great! It would
free up more money for my 155 gallon discus tank.

Thanks for you advice.

Ron

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.0/804 - Release Date: 5/14/2007
4:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22500 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Bacteria Bloom is principally create by a rise in ammonia,

1- when you start a tank cycle, you introduce more ammonia so the
nitrosomanas multiply.
2- If the tank is already cycled and you lower the bacteria colonies and
introduce more ammonia it can happen too.
3- If you introduce more nitrosomonas to a tank with ammonia it can happen
too

I sugest in an other post option 3 as an exemple who happen to me

But in your case it's option 2 , your Top Fin filter do not have a large
bacterial capability, the gravel have a lot of bacterial capability, if you
clean your filter, siphon the gravel , you reduce the bacteria, if you
introduce more ammonia ( from the well,) you will create all the chance to a
bloom

At short term do nothing, the bloom will disappear, DO NOT MAKE MORE WATER
CHANGE with water with a contain in ammonia , put back your light, monitor
the nitrite and stop to drop chemical in the tank ( the stuff for clarify)

At long term , give more bio capability to your tank, update your filter
for something with more surface for the bacteria, it's rate 60 gal your
filter, buy something for at least 100 gal. Aqua clear 110 adjust at lower
speed will be a good candidate a canister filter a good one too, you can
keep your filter too and combine with a aqua clear 70 . add a driftwood,
do not remove the plants. Find a way to not introduce ammonia with water


Gérard







-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

If it was my well why would it only affect one tank instead of all
of them?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I use a well too, I have few bacteria in my well, good one, at
99,5% of the
> time they do not create a bloom in the tank, when it happen if
it's only few
> I do nothing ( in your case the fact you said you do not see it
from the
> front but only from the side ( more length) make be believe than
it's few)
> in severe case I will use my diatom filter , Those floating
bacteria will
> disappear because they can not create a biofilm to protect them,
but if they
> came from your well and the condition of your well water do not
improve ,
> every time you will made a water change it can happen, I do not
like remand
> using UV or Diatom for an extended period , they remove also good
thing for
> the tank, I use them , a diatom filter is the best Ich medicine,
As I said
> made your well analyse by a real laboratory, not a plumber
store , bring it
> to the laboratory, and after when you go get the result talk with
the
> microbiologist , That's is in the interest of you fish but more in
you
> interest too.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de friendtoallfish
> Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 11:00
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water
>
> I tried your advice Gerard and done a small water change filtering
> through a coffee filter and after doing that the filter had no
color
> on it at all. So If this isn't algae how do I fix it?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > If you still not sure of the color, you can make a partial water
> change and
> > filter the water you remove on a coffee filter, you will know if
> it's green,
> > brown, or if it's bacteria you will see nothing
> >
> > But for the health of the plant open the light, if I understand
> well , the
> > one day light off who was suggested was more a test than a long
> time therapy
> > ,
> >
> > , I get distract with this super giant Clown Fish .
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Gerard Gagnon
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 09:25
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > In a previous post you mention the color brown , Algae will
> produce a
> > green color, but bacteria will produce like dust in water, what
> can produce
> > brown color is a new driftwood in the tank, do you add one
> recently ???
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de friendtoallfish
> > Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 07:26
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] update on cloudy water
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days.
> The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
> very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
> had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
> becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
> everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22501 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
" Another thing that could be done, which I haven't done on my Marineland
Bio-Wheel, since it's a secondary filter system on my tank, is to add a
block of large pore filter sponge into the reservoir which would catch any
of the bigger stuff like plant matter, before it has a chance to clog up the
pads. This sponge would also be another home for a lot of good nitrifying
bacteria and the sponge could easily be squeezed clean in some removed tank
water each week. "




Lenny I really like this one, you can make it with furnace filter pad, buy
the one with no colour .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22502 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Anubias , you really want starve the pleco : )

Seriously, I have a 75 gal with 4 adult size Silver Dollars, I install the
tank first with plastic plants, but I want some real one, I add Anubias,
Java Fern , all on drift wood, I have also a pleco there at the time ,, they
like some wood, I feed my Silver with a lot of Spirula combine with regular
Cichlid Pellets , one day I decide to but Hygro in the tank, I have a lot of
surplus of that plants, One leave disappear, only one, after 1 month off
adding more hygro , I remove the plastic one and put only hygro, since that
time I have a 100 % real planted tank with Silver, I know hygro is not a
favourite to vegetarian fish, but I suspect the spirula is the real reason.
Of course with the real plant the pleco is now an other place , he will have
un root all them

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Thanks for the info and the website. Think I’m going to go get a couple
more. Finally found another interesting plant that my pleco doesn’t bother.
Should see if I can find another Thai Onion also. Like the way they twist.
But yea, like the idea of large broad leaves. Sure the dwarf frogs and
shrimp would like some “high ground” to sit on. I’ll knock off a couple of
the larger leaves when I get home and secure it at the base of the wood with
the anubias.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.


Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22503 From: friendtoallfish Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: cloudy water
Thanks to everyone I finally understand what is going on in my tank,
why I could only see it in this one, and how to fix it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22504 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Starve? Naw, the guy’s a pig. : ) He eats the algae tabs I put in along
with the blood worms. He also gets the occasional cabbage and lettuce leaf,
cucumber, etc. Sometimes he leaves them alone long enough for the others to
get a bite or three. Lol I’ve learned a while ago if I want to keep
plants, first they have to be ones he won’t eat and second, I have to plant
them next to his fake hallow log. Anywhere else and they’ll be floating
before the day’s out.



After 6 years, I’ve learned where he’ll let me and not let me put stuff in
his tank. Gotta admit though, when I look at him now, hard to believe he
was only an inch and a half when I bought him. One day I’ll risk a moss
ball or two.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 10:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Anubias , you really want starve the pleco : )

Seriously, I have a 75 gal with 4 adult size Silver Dollars, I install the
tank first with plastic plants, but I want some real one, I add Anubias,
Java Fern , all on drift wood, I have also a pleco there at the time ,, they
like some wood, I feed my Silver with a lot of Spirula combine with regular
Cichlid Pellets , one day I decide to but Hygro in the tank, I have a lot of
surplus of that plants, One leave disappear, only one, after 1 month off
adding more hygro , I remove the plastic one and put only hygro, since that
time I have a 100 % real planted tank with Silver, I know hygro is not a
favourite to vegetarian fish, but I suspect the spirula is the real reason.
Of course with the real plant the pleco is now an other place , he will have
un root all them

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Thanks for the info and the website. Think I’m going to go get a couple
more. Finally found another interesting plant that my pleco doesn’t bother.
Should see if I can find another Thai Onion also. Like the way they twist.
But yea, like the idea of large broad leaves. Sure the dwarf frogs and
shrimp would like some “high ground” to sit on. I’ll knock off a couple of
the larger leaves when I get home and secure it at the base of the wood with
the anubias.

-Steve

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22505 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Pleco was RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant
Mine do not touch moss ball , and you give them better food so . how
long he is now ???

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 14:27
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Starve? Naw, the guy’s a pig. : ) He eats the algae tabs I put in along
with the blood worms. He also gets the occasional cabbage and lettuce leaf,
cucumber, etc. Sometimes he leaves them alone long enough for the others to
get a bite or three. Lol I’ve learned a while ago if I want to keep
plants, first they have to be ones he won’t eat and second, I have to plant
them next to his fake hallow log. Anywhere else and they’ll be floating
before the day’s out.



After 6 years, I’ve learned where he’ll let me and not let me put stuff in
his tank. Gotta admit though, when I look at him now, hard to believe he
was only an inch and a half when I bought him. One day I’ll risk a moss
ball or two.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 10:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Anubias , you really want starve the pleco : )

Seriously, I have a 75 gal with 4 adult size Silver Dollars, I install the
tank first with plastic plants, but I want some real one, I add Anubias,
Java Fern , all on drift wood, I have also a pleco there at the time ,, they
like some wood, I feed my Silver with a lot of Spirula combine with regular
Cichlid Pellets , one day I decide to but Hygro in the tank, I have a lot of
surplus of that plants, One leave disappear, only one, after 1 month off
adding more hygro , I remove the plastic one and put only hygro, since that
time I have a 100 % real planted tank with Silver, I know hygro is not a
favourite to vegetarian fish, but I suspect the spirula is the real reason.
Of course with the real plant the pleco is now an other place , he will have
un root all them

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Thanks for the info and the website. Think I’m going to go get a couple
more. Finally found another interesting plant that my pleco doesn’t bother.
Should see if I can find another Thai Onion also. Like the way they twist.
But yea, like the idea of large broad leaves. Sure the dwarf frogs and
shrimp would like some “high ground” to sit on. I’ll knock off a couple of
the larger leaves when I get home and secure it at the base of the wood with
the anubias.

-Steve

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
74/`7.88.><((((:>.74/`7.88.74/`7.8><((((:> 8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..><((((:>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<:((((><.74/`7.88.74/`7.8<:((((><8.74/`7.8. , .74/`7..<:((((><74/`7.88.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22506 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco was RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant
Oh, he’s about 17 inches long. I’d say maybe 2-3 inches wide not counting
fins. .



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Pleco was RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant



Mine do not touch moss ball , and you give them better food so . how
long he is now ???

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 14:27
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Starve? Naw, the guy’s a pig. : ) He eats the algae tabs I put in along
with the blood worms. He also gets the occasional cabbage and lettuce leaf,
cucumber, etc. Sometimes he leaves them alone long enough for the others to
get a bite or three. Lol I’ve learned a while ago if I want to keep
plants, first they have to be ones he won’t eat and second, I have to plant
them next to his fake hallow log. Anywhere else and they’ll be floating
before the day’s out.

After 6 years, I’ve learned where he’ll let me and not let me put stuff in
his tank. Gotta admit though, when I look at him now, hard to believe he
was only an inch and a half when I bought him. One day I’ll risk a moss
ball or two.

-Steve

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 10:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Anubias , you really want starve the pleco : )

Seriously, I have a 75 gal with 4 adult size Silver Dollars, I install the
tank first with plastic plants, but I want some real one, I add Anubias,
Java Fern , all on drift wood, I have also a pleco there at the time ,, they
like some wood, I feed my Silver with a lot of Spirula combine with regular
Cichlid Pellets , one day I decide to but Hygro in the tank, I have a lot of
surplus of that plants, One leave disappear, only one, after 1 month off
adding more hygro , I remove the plastic one and put only hygro, since that
time I have a 100 % real planted tank with Silver, I know hygro is not a
favourite to vegetarian fish, but I suspect the spirula is the real reason.
Of course with the real plant the pleco is now an other place , he will have
un root all them

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 12:31
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Thanks for the info and the website. Think I’m going to go get a couple
more. Finally found another interesting plant that my pleco doesn’t bother.
Should see if I can find another Thai Onion also. Like the way they twist.
But yea, like the idea of large broad leaves. Sure the dwarf frogs and
shrimp would like some “high ground” to sit on. I’ll knock off a couple of
the larger leaves when I get home and secure it at the base of the wood with
the anubias.

-Steve

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 8:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Don't remove all the leave, you can remove few ( cut them with your finger
nail ) but leave some leaves. 3 or 4 , those plants like to float, and
when they float the became huge. Remark I'm not a expert in plant, my wife
is the one , I just start last year to have more interest in them, but I
use a lot of Hygrophila polysperma as filtration system in my tank, I add
also drift wood for color and substrate and food for my fish, but I need
something in the foreground, Banana plants are one of the perfect plants for
that purpose, the reason I say to not put the tuber in the gravel, is for
see them it give a different look . Banana is an easy light adjustable
plants, not too much light she will keep her look, with more she will grow
and it will became a problem for the tank.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:47
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

What if there are no “bad” leaves. Should I remove all of the leaves?

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 7:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

Nymphoides aquatica

First you have to remove the bad leaves, do not put the tuber in the gravel,
just use a piece of weight who usually came with plants , some people do not
like use the lead like weight, you can use a fine nylon wire to anchor it to
a flat stone, this flat stone will be burry in the gravel , make sure the
end of the tuber are near the gravel but not burry , the plants will root
eventually.

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:05
À : AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Banana Plant

I purchased a banana plant (dunno if that's what they are really called, but
that's what the LFS called them.) for my aquarium. Its got green tubars
looking like unripe bananas and at the time had 3 stems with a single leaf
to each. At the store, it was just sitting on top of the gravel and looked
different and the plecos they had were ignoring it (a big plus) so I bought
it.

Welp, the plant never did sink any roots down but has instead began floating
by its now 8 leaves. The leaves are all at the surface with the base
suspended in the water. None of the fish are bothering it.

Was wondering if the plant is really doing as well as it appears or should I
some how try to figure out how to anchor it down to the gravel?

Thanks in advance for yalls replies

-Steve

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

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Yahoo! Groups Links

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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22507 From: David Greensmith Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Couple of questions...
Practical fishkeeping doesn't take adverts from stores that stock coloured fish. I have not yet encountered a shop selling dyed fish but if I did, I would not shop there and make a point of telling them why.

Unfortunately, there must be a market for fish that have been mutilated in this way, otherwise they would not be stocked.

David.
----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Couple of questions...



Who do you need to wait for the "Authorities" to do this?

Why not try educating fish keepers and stores that you think this is
unethical?

I have read fish magazines from the UK and thought they were excellent. Do
they try and educate their readership about this practice?

Start a letter writing campaign to the store keepers. Boycott stores that
sell them. I boycott stores that sell hubrids. I make it a point of telling
a clerk or manager that I won't shop there because of injected fish and or
hybrids.

Mike

In a message dated 5/13/2007 4:01:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
davidbgreensmith@... writes:

At some point, hopefully, the authorities will realise how cruel this
practice of injecting dye into fish is and will outlaw it.

David

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22508 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Just leave the leaves on and wieght it down or it'll do ok floating too. Fun little plant.


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
May 10% discount code is flowers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22509 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Just leave the leaves on and wieght it down or it'll do ok floating too. Fun little plant.


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
May 10% discount code is flowers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22510 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Banana Plant
Just leave the leaves on and wieght it down or it'll do ok floating too. Fun little plant.


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
May 10% discount code is flowers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time
with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22511 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/15/2007
Subject: Re: Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)
On my 55 gals, I have 2 emperor 400’s on each of them. Something I have
been thinking about doing is expanding the size of the reservoir along the
length of the tank and about 6inces back. In this, I would put surface
plants and other plants that can survive with their roots in the water. It
would give my living room some nice plant life and the plants would help in
the cleaning process and remove a lot of the waste. By having this be
larger, I could put some nice plants in there and the flow would be slow
enough to allow a lot of the waste to settle.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 12:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Maryland filter pad question (Marineland ??)




" Another thing that could be done, which I haven't done on my Marineland
Bio-Wheel, since it's a secondary filter system on my tank, is to add a
block of large pore filter sponge into the reservoir which would catch any
of the bigger stuff like plant matter, before it has a chance to clog up the
pads. This sponge would also be another home for a lot of good nitrifying
bacteria and the sponge could easily be squeezed clean in some removed tank
water each week. "

Lenny I really like this one, you can make it with furnace filter pad, buy
the one with no colour .

Gerard





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22512 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after placing
him in the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water flow. It's an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had
this happen before. I pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net
and he decompressed and seemed fine, you know swimming and staying
away from the powerhead. This morning however, around 4am, my husband
gets up to go to work and saw hime stuck in it again, but this time
his tail was in the machine. No idea how long he was like that. My
husband got him out and he looked injured this morning to him, but all
I could see was a possible bruise around his tail like a ring. He
seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as yesterday. Do you
think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when I get
home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
should I keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22513 From: larry Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: worried about my yellow lab
My yellow lab i got 2 months ago along with my zebras. my zebras have
grown in the 2 months but my yellow lab has stayed the same(1 1/2
inches). I am worried as to why it hasnt grown.
It eats and swims well, and appears to be healthy,but i fear that as
the others get bigger it will be picked on and may get killed if it
doesnt get bigger soon.
Should i be concerned?Is there anything that i can do?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22514 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of ALL filter
systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from the strong
suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever purchased comes
with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least came with an
intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit over the
intakes.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!

I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after placing him in
the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for water flow. It's
an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen before. I
pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he decompressed and
seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the powerhead. This
morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work and saw hime
stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No idea how
long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked injured this
morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around his tail
like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as yesterday.
Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when I get
home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What should I
keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22515 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
2 things can happen

1- your fish is sick and can't swim, so it will be attracted by any filter

2- you power head is too power full , as Lenny daid put some screen , with
Hagen it's easy you use quick filter cartridge , I use then with all my
power head, you do not need to place the filter inside if you don't like , I
use only the casing me.

Have a look

http://www.aqualab.ca/nouvellepage1.htm




Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jessica
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 12:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!

I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after placing
him in the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water flow. It's an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had
this happen before. I pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net
and he decompressed and seemed fine, you know swimming and staying
away from the powerhead. This morning however, around 4am, my husband
gets up to go to work and saw hime stuck in it again, but this time
his tail was in the machine. No idea how long he was like that. My
husband got him out and he looked injured this morning to him, but all
I could see was a possible bruise around his tail like a ring. He
seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as yesterday. Do you
think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when I get
home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
should I keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22516 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
I add a pic I take last year of a quick filter, notice than the Farlowella
is not stuck on it, they like water flow, you can also add 2 cartridges end
to end if you like to have more surface to give less suction, they are
design to screw one after the other

http://www.aqualab.ca/nouvellepage1.htm


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard Gagnon
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 14:58
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!

2 things can happen

1- your fish is sick and can't swim, so it will be attracted by any filter

2- you power head is too power full , as Lenny daid put some screen , with
Hagen it's easy you use quick filter cartridge , I use then with all my
power head, you do not need to place the filter inside if you don't like , I
use only the casing me.

Have a look

http://www.aqualab.ca/nouvellepage1.htm




Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jessica
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 12:44
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!

I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after placing
him in the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water flow. It's an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had
this happen before. I pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net
and he decompressed and seemed fine, you know swimming and staying
away from the powerhead. This morning however, around 4am, my husband
gets up to go to work and saw hime stuck in it again, but this time
his tail was in the machine. No idea how long he was like that. My
husband got him out and he looked injured this morning to him, but all
I could see was a possible bruise around his tail like a ring. He
seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as yesterday. Do you
think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when I get
home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
should I keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22517 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads didn't
come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't come
with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed anything.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
ALL filter
> systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from the
strong
> suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
purchased comes
> with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least came
with an
> intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
over the
> intakes.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
placing him in
> the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for water
flow. It's
> an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
before. I
> pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he decompressed
and
> seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
powerhead. This
> morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work and
saw hime
> stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No
idea how
> long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
injured this
> morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around
his tail
> like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as
yesterday.
> Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when
I get
> home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
should I
> keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22518 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: bicher
I was wondering if I could put dwarf frogs in with a Senegal bicher or would
they become a snack for him?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22519 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: The family is growing
I take a pic of my sturisoma couple, you can see the dad at the back
guarding the egg attach on the back of the filter intake, I will wait 3 or 4
days they come more dark to remove the tube and place it in an other tank,
because the neon will eat the fry. The mom is taking lunch on the drift wood


http://www.aqualab.ca/fish/fish/S/sturisoma.htm





Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22520 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
I have few model of Hagen I think the 5100 you can put in reverse, ( pump
water in UGF) in reverse mode the fish can get in contact with the impeller,
How I know I shred already a beta fins in one. And on those model no way to
put a prefilter in reverse mode, Unless you make something huge and ugly to
cover all the power head

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jessica
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 15:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads didn't
come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't come
with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed anything.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
ALL filter
> systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from the
strong
> suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
purchased comes
> with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least came
with an
> intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
over the
> intakes.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
placing him in
> the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for water
flow. It's
> an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
before. I
> pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he decompressed
and
> seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
powerhead. This
> morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work and
saw hime
> stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No
idea how
> long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
injured this
> morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around
his tail
> like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as
yesterday.
> Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him when
I get
> home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
should I
> keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22521 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
I didn't read on the manual that you could put this one in reverse.
What I'm really worried about is the fish. Is there anything that I
need to keep an eye out for? I'm going home to get a better look at
him later. I'm also going to turn one of the powerheads off. I
heard that they don't like strong currents. Is that true? Does
anybody have a puffer?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I have few model of Hagen I think the 5100 you can put in
reverse, ( pump
> water in UGF) in reverse mode the fish can get in contact with the
impeller,
> How I know I shred already a beta fins in one. And on those model
no way to
> put a prefilter in reverse mode, Unless you make something huge
and ugly to
> cover all the power head
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Jessica
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 15:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads didn't
> come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
> powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't come
> with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed anything.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
> ALL filter
> > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from
the
> strong
> > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> purchased comes
> > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least
came
> with an
> > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
> over the
> > intakes.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jessica
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> placing him in
> > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water
> flow. It's
> > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
> before. I
> > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
decompressed
> and
> > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> powerhead. This
> > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work
and
> saw hime
> > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No
> idea how
> > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> injured this
> > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around
> his tail
> > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much
as
> yesterday.
> > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
when
> I get
> > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
> should I
> > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
> 5/15/2007
> > 10:47 AM
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22522 From: FortWayneFish@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
You use the powerheads for circulation right ? Do you need the powerheads
to aid in your filteration or are they just cosmetic? If they are just for
circulation I'd suggest turning them off and getting a smaller powerhead or
better yet just get an airstone to aid in your water movement.
I do not have a dogface puffer but everyone I have ever seen tends to stay
out of the currents in the tank.

I do have a fahaka puffer ( 8.5 inches and growing ) and when I added a
Penguin 1140 powerhead to his 75 gallon tank he darted to the bottom of the
tank under his favorite arched decoration and stayed there for days until the
current in the tank was drastically reduced. I finally ended up taking the
powerhead out and put in a bubble wand. The fish seems a lot more content with
the bubbles then he did with the current.


Robert Renfro
Fort Wayne , Indiana

Support our Troops
_www.anysoldier.com_ (http://www.anysoldier.com)





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22523 From: Jessica Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
It is for circluation. Strictly for water flow, no filtration.
What's an airstone and a bubble wand?
I've never heard of those. I thought you had to have a powerhead or
a wavemaker for water flow.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FortWayneFish@... wrote:
>
> You use the powerheads for circulation right ? Do you need the
powerheads
> to aid in your filteration or are they just cosmetic? If they
are just for
> circulation I'd suggest turning them off and getting a smaller
powerhead or
> better yet just get an airstone to aid in your water movement.
> I do not have a dogface puffer but everyone I have ever seen tends
to stay
> out of the currents in the tank.
>
> I do have a fahaka puffer ( 8.5 inches and growing ) and when I
added a
> Penguin 1140 powerhead to his 75 gallon tank he darted to the
bottom of the
> tank under his favorite arched decoration and stayed there for
days until the
> current in the tank was drastically reduced. I finally ended up
taking the
> powerhead out and put in a bubble wand. The fish seems a lot
more content with
> the bubbles then he did with the current.
>
>
> Robert Renfro
> Fort Wayne , Indiana
>
> Support our Troops
> _www.anysoldier.com_ (http://www.anysoldier.com)
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22524 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Is it Reef Tank ?? Usually Power Head and especially wave maker are for
Reef Tank, you do not put those puffer in a reef , they will eat the
invertebrate. Now if it's a fish only tank, you can reduce the circulation,
but if it's a reef you need it.

Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Jessica
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 16:49
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

It is for circluation. Strictly for water flow, no filtration.
What's an airstone and a bubble wand?
I've never heard of those. I thought you had to have a powerhead or
a wavemaker for water flow.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, FortWayneFish@... wrote:
>
> You use the powerheads for circulation right ? Do you need the
powerheads
> to aid in your filteration or are they just cosmetic? If they
are just for
> circulation I'd suggest turning them off and getting a smaller
powerhead or
> better yet just get an airstone to aid in your water movement.
> I do not have a dogface puffer but everyone I have ever seen tends
to stay
> out of the currents in the tank.
>
> I do have a fahaka puffer ( 8.5 inches and growing ) and when I
added a
> Penguin 1140 powerhead to his 75 gallon tank he darted to the
bottom of the
> tank under his favorite arched decoration and stayed there for
days until the
> current in the tank was drastically reduced. I finally ended up
taking the
> powerhead out and put in a bubble wand. The fish seems a lot
more content with
> the bubbles then he did with the current.
>
>
> Robert Renfro
> Fort Wayne , Indiana
>
> Support our Troops
> _www.anysoldier.com_ (http://www.anysoldier.com)
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22525 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my yellow lab
Yellow labs are known to grow more slowly than other mbuna, so I wouldn’t
worry about that. However, there are a couple of things to think about.
Zebras are more aggressive than yellow labs, so the labs might get picked on
regardless of size. I have zebras and labs together, you just need lots of
fish and lots of hiding places in the rocks. The other thing to think about
is the number of labs and the number of zebras you have, plus the size of
your tank and the amount of rockwork. Ideal is to have at least 5 zebras
with one male, four females. Ideal is to have at least 6 yellow labs, sex
ratio is less important. Since mbuna are rockfish they like the tank filled
to the waterline with rock (I could only get mine ½ filled). And with all
those aggressive fish, hopefully your tank is 55 gallons or more.



My yellow labs don’t take any grief from anyone else in the tank!



Are the zebras hogging all the food? You can sprinkle some at each end to
help the labs get some.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of larry
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 12:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my yellow lab



My yellow lab i got 2 months ago along with my zebras. my zebras have
grown in the 2 months but my yellow lab has stayed the same(1 1/2
inches). I am worried as to why it hasnt grown.
It eats and swims well, and appears to be healthy,but i fear that as
the others get bigger it will be picked on and may get killed if it
doesnt get bigger soon.
Should i be concerned?Is there anything that i can do?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22526 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and the
ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there were
nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22527 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
What is a power head?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads didn't
> come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
> powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't come
> with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed anything.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
> ALL filter
> > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from
the
> strong
> > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> purchased comes
> > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least came
> with an
> > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
> over the
> > intakes.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jessica
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> placing him in
> > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for water
> flow. It's
> > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
> before. I
> > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
decompressed
> and
> > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> powerhead. This
> > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work and
> saw hime
> > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No
> idea how
> > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> injured this
> > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around
> his tail
> > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as
> yesterday.
> > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
when
> I get
> > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
> should I
> > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
> 5/15/2007
> > 10:47 AM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22528 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Let me guess you siphon the tank again and make a water change ??


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and the
ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there were
nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22529 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power head ???, I gone
give a hint, ( Eheim )



Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

What is a power head?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads didn't
> come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
> powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't come
> with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed anything.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
> ALL filter
> > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from
the
> strong
> > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> purchased comes
> > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least came
> with an
> > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
> over the
> > intakes.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jessica
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> placing him in
> > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for water
> flow. It's
> > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
> before. I
> > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
decompressed
> and
> > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> powerhead. This
> > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work and
> saw hime
> > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine. No
> idea how
> > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> injured this
> > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise around
> his tail
> > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much as
> yesterday.
> > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
when
> I get
> > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom. What
> should I
> > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
> 5/15/2007
> > 10:47 AM
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22530 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
We are talking carbon in an aqueous environment. Don't care about how they desorb vapor, don't even care if it is a complete desorbtion. Fact of the matter is that it does happen, and one does not need high heart and/or pressure to have it happen. To make it happen faster, a change in pH does the trick.

Trying to desorb carbon enough to be re-used is a fool's errand, in our environments, and should not be attempted by the hobbyist.

Carbon should only be used when needed, to adsorb medications or something else in that tank that may be harmful to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22531 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
No acutally Ive done nothing to the tank at all.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Let me guess you siphon the tank again and make a water change ??
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:42
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
>
> Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and
the
> ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there
were
> nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22532 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Are platies and goldies compatible?
I have one large common goldie, one medium-sized fantail, and one rosy
red minnow in a 20-gallon long. The minnow and large goldie get along
fine; in fact the minnow thinks he's a goldie; he grew up with the
common goldie and is very protective of her. (It was quite amusing to
see him herd the large goldie into a corner and "guard" her after I
added the fantail.) I was thinking about adding one or two grown
platies (males) to the goldie tank. Would the large goldie bother the
platies? I figure the minnow won't be happy about it but will get
over it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22533 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of the
back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel 100
gph


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power head ???, I
gone
> give a hint, ( Eheim )
>
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> What is a power head?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@> wrote:
> >
> > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
didn't
> > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
> > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
come
> > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
anything.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
> > ALL filter
> > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from
> the
> > strong
> > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > purchased comes
> > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least
came
> > with an
> > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
> > over the
> > > intakes.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> > placing him in
> > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water
> > flow. It's
> > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
> > before. I
> > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> decompressed
> > and
> > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > powerhead. This
> > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work
and
> > saw hime
> > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine.
No
> > idea how
> > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > injured this
> > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
around
> > his tail
> > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much
as
> > yesterday.
> > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
> when
> > I get
> > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
What
> > should I
> > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
> > 5/15/2007
> > > 10:47 AM
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22534 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Don't care so why it's you who talk about the resorb in industrial
environment, show me some info about your PH change, show me some also than
it's dangerous to use carbon in a tank.


A PH change resorb is for remove acid or strong base in the carbon, so you
need to put the carbon in a strong acid or strong base, How many fish can
live Sulphuric Acid or Pure Sodium Hydroxide



No one will try to completely resorb a carbon, it cost less to buy a new
one.


In my book, the only way to resorb a carbon use in water is with high heat,
show me the contrary. Not only bla bla bla "Facts of the mater" I do not
see the facts.



Until someone show me facts I do not need to continue to talk about it,



Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 21:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

We are talking carbon in an aqueous environment. Don't care about how they
desorb vapor, don't even care if it is a complete desorbtion. Fact of the
matter is that it does happen, and one does not need high heart and/or
pressure to have it happen. To make it happen faster, a change in pH does
the trick.

Trying to desorb carbon enough to be re-used is a fool's errand, in our
environments, and should not be attempted by the hobbyist.

Carbon should only be used when needed, to adsorb medications or something
else in that tank that may be harmful to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22535 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment


Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually the pump)
screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the canister
with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the time
people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in the tank ,
and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start to make
submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue to call them
power head.

So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run the water é


Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of the
back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel 100
gph


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power head ???, I
gone
> give a hint, ( Eheim )
>
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> What is a power head?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@> wrote:
> >
> > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
didn't
> > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them. The
> > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
come
> > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
anything.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake of
> > ALL filter
> > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away from
> the
> > strong
> > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > purchased comes
> > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least
came
> > with an
> > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that fit
> > over the
> > > intakes.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> > placing him in
> > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
water
> > flow. It's
> > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this happen
> > before. I
> > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> decompressed
> > and
> > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > powerhead. This
> > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work
and
> > saw hime
> > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine.
No
> > idea how
> > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > injured this
> > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
around
> > his tail
> > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as much
as
> > yesterday.
> > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
> when
> > I get
> > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
What
> > should I
> > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
> > 5/15/2007
> > > 10:47 AM
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22536 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
A good healthy plant growth will remove nitrates from the water.

The EPA has a recommended limit of 10 ppm for nitrates. It is not followed very much, from my understanding.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I
tested my tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0,
nitrate-10. Then I tested my well water and the results are ammonia-
.25, nitrite-0, nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that
suggestion and it seemed to work alittle so I left them off alittle
longer hoping that it would clear up but it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the
plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22537 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
Since 20 years now when I buy an Aquaclear filter they always came with a
bag of charcoal, I always keep those bag in the top of a filter , and when I
need to cycle a tank I get the bag and put it on the new filter, I never
clean them, I have some they are 5 years old or may be more. They are my
Bio Spira , my own preserve bacterial colony. I never lost a fish , aside of
the one who get old or the new one I bought .

You have people who read to much and do not experience enough, so they are
afraid of everything. If few gram of carbon get saturate with some fish
urine, what is the problem if it's release after . carbon do not retain
heavy poisonous metal.

Since I'm member of list I understand more why people loose fish, and I see
no post until now than it was the carbon the cause.

If will really appreciate than if someone have facts than carbon is
dangerous, show me some referral. Until know I have over 20 old bags in my
tank and they gone stay there

P.S I never use carbon for the purpose of absorb something, I use it only as
substrates .


Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22538 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
-Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
>
>
> Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually the
pump)
> screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
canister
> with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
time
> people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in the
tank ,
> and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start to
make
> submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue to
call them
> power head.
>
> So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
the water é
>
>
> Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of the
> back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel 100
> gph
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power head ???,
I
> gone
> > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> >
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > What is a power head?
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@> wrote:
> > >
> > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> didn't
> > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
The
> > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> come
> > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> anything.
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake
of
> > > ALL filter
> > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
from
> > the
> > > strong
> > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > purchased comes
> > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least
> came
> > > with an
> > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
fit
> > > over the
> > > > intakes.
> > > >
> > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> > > placing him in
> > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> water
> > > flow. It's
> > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
happen
> > > before. I
> > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > decompressed
> > > and
> > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > powerhead. This
> > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work
> and
> > > saw hime
> > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine.
> No
> > > idea how
> > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > injured this
> > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> around
> > > his tail
> > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
much
> as
> > > yesterday.
> > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
> > when
> > > I get
> > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> What
> > > should I
> > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
Date:
> > > 5/15/2007
> > > > 10:47 AM
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22539 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
It's 3 time the acceptances. What do you know about it, do not listen
this guy and make your water check by professional. For your understanding,
ammonia in a well and high level of nitrate can means E coli bacteria too.


Steve if you want contradict me do it in a way to not jeopardize with the
healt of human.









-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:21
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

A good healthy plant growth will remove nitrates from the water.

The EPA has a recommended limit of 10 ppm for nitrates. It is not followed
very much, from my understanding.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de friendtoallfish
Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I
tested my tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0,
nitrate-10. Then I tested my well water and the results are ammonia-
.25, nitrite-0, nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that
suggestion and it seemed to work alittle so I left them off alittle
longer hoping that it would clear up but it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the
plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22540 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Are you Hungarian ???






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

-Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
>
>
> Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually the
pump)
> screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
canister
> with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
time
> people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in the
tank ,
> and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start to
make
> submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue to
call them
> power head.
>
> So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
the water é
>
>
> Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of the
> back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel 100
> gph
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power head ???,
I
> gone
> > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> >
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > What is a power head?
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@> wrote:
> > >
> > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> didn't
> > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
The
> > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> come
> > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> anything.
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the intake
of
> > > ALL filter
> > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
from
> > the
> > > strong
> > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > purchased comes
> > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at least
> came
> > > with an
> > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
fit
> > > over the
> > > > intakes.
> > > >
> > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes after
> > > placing him in
> > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> water
> > > flow. It's
> > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
happen
> > > before. I
> > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > decompressed
> > > and
> > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > powerhead. This
> > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to work
> and
> > > saw hime
> > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the machine.
> No
> > > idea how
> > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > injured this
> > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> around
> > > his tail
> > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
much
> as
> > > yesterday.
> > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at him
> > when
> > > I get
> > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> What
> > > should I
> > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
Date:
> > > 5/15/2007
> > > > 10:47 AM
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22541 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Why do you ask that. Im a American.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you Hungarian ???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> >
> >
> > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
the
> pump)
> > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
> canister
> > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> time
> > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
the
> tank ,
> > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
to
> make
> > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
to
> call them
> > power head.
> >
> > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> the water é
> >
> >
> > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
the
> > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
100
> > gph
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
head ???,
> I
> > gone
> > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > What is a power head?
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > didn't
> > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> The
> > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > come
> > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > anything.
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
intake
> of
> > > > ALL filter
> > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> from
> > > the
> > > > strong
> > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > purchased comes
> > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
least
> > came
> > > > with an
> > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> fit
> > > > over the
> > > > > intakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > >
> > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
after
> > > > placing him in
> > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> > water
> > > > flow. It's
> > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> happen
> > > > before. I
> > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > decompressed
> > > > and
> > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
work
> > and
> > > > saw hime
> > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
machine.
> > No
> > > > idea how
> > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > > injured this
> > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > around
> > > > his tail
> > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> much
> > as
> > > > yesterday.
> > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
him
> > > when
> > > > I get
> > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> > What
> > > > should I
> > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> Date:
> > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22542 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
Steve are you a chemist ??? unfortunately I was studying it , In Maine in
2004 , but I temporary stop for family reason, when I will finish it will be
my third PHD

Here a link

http://www.umche.maine.edu/pssp/currstu.htm


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 21:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

We are talking carbon in an aqueous environment. Don't care about how they
desorb vapor, don't even care if it is a complete desorbtion. Fact of the
matter is that it does happen, and one does not need high heart and/or
pressure to have it happen. To make it happen faster, a change in pH does
the trick.

Trying to desorb carbon enough to be re-used is a fool's errand, in our
environments, and should not be attempted by the hobbyist.

Carbon should only be used when needed, to adsorb medications or something
else in that tank that may be harmful to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22543 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
I forgot also this one ( 2001)

http://cbe.tulane.edu/alumni/alumni.php


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Gerard Gagnon
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 23:03
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Steve are you a chemist ??? unfortunately I was studying it , In Maine in
2004 , but I temporary stop for family reason, when I will finish it will be
my third PHD

Here a link

http://www.umche.maine.edu/pssp/currstu.htm


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 21:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

We are talking carbon in an aqueous environment. Don't care about how they
desorb vapor, don't even care if it is a complete desorbtion. Fact of the
matter is that it does happen, and one does not need high heart and/or
pressure to have it happen. To make it happen faster, a change in pH does
the trick.

Trying to desorb carbon enough to be re-used is a fool's errand, in our
environments, and should not be attempted by the hobbyist.

Carbon should only be used when needed, to adsorb medications or something
else in that tank that may be harmful to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22544 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a continent.( o yes
the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian, too,
actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American, have you
ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

Why do you ask that. Im a American.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you Hungarian ???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> >
> >
> > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
the
> pump)
> > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
> canister
> > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> time
> > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
the
> tank ,
> > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
to
> make
> > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
to
> call them
> > power head.
> >
> > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> the water é
> >
> >
> > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
the
> > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
100
> > gph
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
head ???,
> I
> > gone
> > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > What is a power head?
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > didn't
> > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> The
> > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > come
> > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > anything.
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
intake
> of
> > > > ALL filter
> > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> from
> > > the
> > > > strong
> > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > purchased comes
> > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
least
> > came
> > > > with an
> > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> fit
> > > > over the
> > > > > intakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > >
> > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
after
> > > > placing him in
> > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> > water
> > > > flow. It's
> > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> happen
> > > > before. I
> > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > decompressed
> > > > and
> > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
work
> > and
> > > > saw hime
> > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
machine.
> > No
> > > > idea how
> > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > > injured this
> > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > around
> > > > his tail
> > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> much
> > as
> > > > yesterday.
> > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
him
> > > when
> > > > I get
> > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> > What
> > > > should I
> > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> Date:
> > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22545 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
SHE HAVE LOW ACCEPTABLE NITRATE IN THE TANK, AN HAZARDOUS LEVEL IN THE
WELL , so are you suggesting to put some water Lilly in the well ,

She mention it and I mention it too

Her " I tested my tank water and the results were ammonia-0,
nitrite-0, nitrate-10. Then I tested my well water and the results are
ammonia- .25, nitrite-0, nitrate-30.

Me " That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate
than the tank. "


Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22546 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
You need to find a reliable LFS that can test your water (tank and tap) for
you and give you numbers and then you test your water (tank and tap) at the
same time or right before or after, with your kit, to see if you come up
with the same numbers. It could be your test kit.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 8:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

No acutally Ive done nothing to the tank at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Let me guess you siphon the tank again and make a water change ??
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:42
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
>
> Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and
the
> ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there
were
> nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22547 From: larry thielen jr. Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my yellow lab
my lab is able to defedn his own. they have plenty of
hiding places. It eats right with the zebras so they
seems to get all their share. My tank is 50 gallons.
was told it was fine.
My cichlids are about 2 inches
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> Yellow labs are known to grow more slowly than other
> mbuna, so I wouldn’t
> worry about that. However, there are a couple of
> things to think about.
> Zebras are more aggressive than yellow labs, so the
> labs might get picked on
> regardless of size. I have zebras and labs
> together, you just need lots of
> fish and lots of hiding places in the rocks. The
> other thing to think about
> is the number of labs and the number of zebras you
> have, plus the size of
> your tank and the amount of rockwork. Ideal is to
> have at least 5 zebras
> with one male, four females. Ideal is to have at
> least 6 yellow labs, sex
> ratio is less important. Since mbuna are rockfish
> they like the tank filled
> to the waterline with rock (I could only get mine ½
> filled). And with all
> those aggressive fish, hopefully your tank is 55
> gallons or more.
>
>
>
> My yellow labs don’t take any grief from anyone else
> in the tank!
>
>
>
> Are the zebras hogging all the food? You can
> sprinkle some at each end to
> help the labs get some.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of larry
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 12:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] worried about my
> yellow lab
>
>
>
> My yellow lab i got 2 months ago along with my
> zebras. my zebras have
> grown in the 2 months but my yellow lab has stayed
> the same(1 1/2
> inches). I am worried as to why it hasnt grown.
> It eats and swims well, and appears to be
> healthy,but i fear that as
> the others get bigger it will be picked on and may
> get killed if it
> doesnt get bigger soon.
> Should i be concerned?Is there anything that i can
> do?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22548 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
You shouldn't add anything else to that tank. You are already well on your
way to being overstocked. Common goldfish grow to 18" - 24" and fancy
goldfish grow to 6" - 8" but are FAT so they are nearly equal in body mass
to long-bodied goldfish. I know there are sites all over the net that says
10G per goldfish but that's simply inaccurate information that has been
copied over and over by people who have never kept goldfish long-term.

The minimum you should start off with for baby/juvi goldfish is 15G - 20G
per goldfish and at least a 4' long tank. As the fish grow, you will have
to upgrade up to 50G per goldfish depending on their size.

Here's a good 4 page web-article on goldfish..
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html

Here's my blog articles on a better "easy" stocking guideline for all fish.
The "one inch per gallon rule" does not work except most for smaller
tropical fish.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Are platies and goldies compatible?

I have one large common goldie, one medium-sized fantail, and one rosy red
minnow in a 20-gallon long. The minnow and large goldie get along fine; in
fact the minnow thinks he's a goldie; he grew up with the common goldie and
is very protective of her. (It was quite amusing to see him herd the large
goldie into a corner and "guard" her after I added the fantail.) I was
thinking about adding one or two grown platies (males) to the goldie tank.
Would the large goldie bother the platies? I figure the minnow won't be
happy about it but will get over it.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22549 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Good Lenny very good, Steve who suggest than 3 time the EPA standard is
nothing to worry and you with your LFS to test the well water, thing are
improving if the test show 10 in the tank and 30 in the well , what do you
expect, I never see a freshwater tank at 0 , so if the test are wrong they
show less .


Gérard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 23:47
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

You need to find a reliable LFS that can test your water (tank and tap) for
you and give you numbers and then you test your water (tank and tap) at the
same time or right before or after, with your kit, to see if you come up
with the same numbers. It could be your test kit.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 8:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

No acutally Ive done nothing to the tank at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Let me guess you siphon the tank again and make a water change ??
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:42
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
>
> Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and
the
> ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there
were
> nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22550 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
Lenny a 20 gal. is 24" long so no problem your 24" goldfish will fit , just put a running hose of water inside, it will bring new oxygen and the chlorine will disinfect the tank too. nothing to worry if the water is cold , they are use to it.





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 23:55
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Are platies and goldies compatible?

You shouldn't add anything else to that tank. You are already well on your
way to being overstocked. Common goldfish grow to 18" - 24" and fancy
goldfish grow to 6" - 8" but are FAT so they are nearly equal in body mass
to long-bodied goldfish. I know there are sites all over the net that says
10G per goldfish but that's simply inaccurate information that has been
copied over and over by people who have never kept goldfish long-term.

The minimum you should start off with for baby/juvi goldfish is 15G - 20G
per goldfish and at least a 4' long tank. As the fish grow, you will have
to upgrade up to 50G per goldfish depending on their size.

Here's a good 4 page web-article on goldfish..
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html

Here's my blog articles on a better "easy" stocking guideline for all fish.
The "one inch per gallon rule" does not work except most for smaller
tropical fish.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Are platies and goldies compatible?

I have one large common goldie, one medium-sized fantail, and one rosy red
minnow in a 20-gallon long. The minnow and large goldie get along fine; in
fact the minnow thinks he's a goldie; he grew up with the common goldie and
is very protective of her. (It was quite amusing to see him herd the large
goldie into a corner and "guard" her after I added the fantail.) I was
thinking about adding one or two grown platies (males) to the goldie tank.
Would the large goldie bother the platies? I figure the minnow won't be
happy about it but will get over it.


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10:47 AM




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 22551 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: bicher
NO problem he will eat only the leg , put some lemon juice in the tank, it's
give better taste




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de The Dragon Hunter
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 13:46
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] bicher

I was wondering if I could put dwarf frogs in with a Senegal bicher or would
they become a snack for him?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22552 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
Nobody said carbon kills fish and it is safe to use but.... It's just not
needed and does in fact leech phosphates into a tank when it is new and
leeches (desorbs) certain absorbed chemicals back into your water if you
don't discard it on a regular basis. Studies have shown that it should be
changed/discarded every couple of weeks for most aquariums.

Since you are experienced and have planted tanks, these things don't matter
to you but for newbies, who are prone to overfeed and under maintain their
tanks, the carbon leads them to a false sense of security because they think
the carbon is removing all of the nasties from the tank where carbon doesn't
even help removing the things that newbies have issues with... The Nitrogen
Cycle. The only thing that does that if proper maintenance of the water and
filters. Of course, in a planted tank, things change but I would suspect
that 90% of new fishkeepers do not have live plants in their tanks.

There have been countless scientific studies to show that carbon, especially
the low quality carbon that is sold in most pet stores, leeches back some of
the things it absorbed and only has a useful life of a couple of weeks
(depending on the volume of carbon). It's just something the filter
companies tell people to use to keep the revenue flowing into the company
coffers. If people do regular filter maintenance and regular weekly or
bi-weekly 25% PWC's (depending on bioload), that will do much more for the
health of their tanks than spending money on an endless supply of carbon.

Now, I have started using Purigen (from SeaChem) which is a rechargeable
advanced chemical filter media which lasts much longer than carbon and
changes color from white to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know when
to "clean/recharge" it using a bleach solution. I know that 20 years from
now, I could learn that Purigen has some major negatives but so far it's
getting good reports from studies and from hobbyists. It is supposedly 500%
more efficient at removing DOC's and other unwanted chemicals in a tank so
it can last for months in a lightly stocked tank. In my goldfish/pleco
tank, I have to recharge it monthly so far.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Carbon is safe to use in a tank,

Since 20 years now when I buy an Aquaclear filter they always came with a
bag of charcoal, I always keep those bag in the top of a filter , and when I
need to cycle a tank I get the bag and put it on the new filter, I never
clean them, I have some they are 5 years old or may be more. They are my Bio
Spira , my own preserve bacterial colony. I never lost a fish , aside of the
one who get old or the new one I bought .

You have people who read to much and do not experience enough, so they are
afraid of everything. If few gram of carbon get saturate with some fish
urine, what is the problem if it's release after . carbon do not retain
heavy poisonous metal.

Since I'm member of list I understand more why people loose fish, and I see
no post until now than it was the carbon the cause.

If will really appreciate than if someone have facts than carbon is
dangerous, show me some referral. Until know I have over 20 old bags in my
tank and they gone stay there

P.S I never use carbon for the purpose of absorb something, I use it only as
substrates .

Gérard

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10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22553 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
It's normal to have no nitrate, your plant eat them at lunch.






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:42
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and the
ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there were
nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.



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the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22554 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Put some elephant nose, some tiger, and some lion fish, so with your clown
you will have a full circus






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Paul
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 16:09
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?

Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
Any ideas?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22555 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Gerard,

I think what Steve is saying is that in the USA, the EPA has set a limit of
no more than 10ppm of nitrates in tap/drinking water but there are countless
water utility companies that do not meet these standards. I have seen many
posts where people have in excess of 20ppm of nitrates in their tap/drinking
water.

Here is a site where many people can check their published water quality
reports. http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

It's 3 time the acceptances. What do you know about it, do not listen this
guy and make your water check by professional. For your understanding,
ammonia in a well and high level of nitrate can means E coli bacteria too.

Steve if you want contradict me do it in a way to not jeopardize with the
healt of human.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:21 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

A good healthy plant growth will remove nitrates from the water.

The EPA has a recommended limit of 10 ppm for nitrates. It is not followed
very much, from my understanding.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de friendtoallfish Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I tested my
tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-10. Then I
tested my well water and the results are ammonia- .25, nitrite-0,
nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that suggestion and it seemed to work
alittle so I left them off alittle longer hoping that it would clear up but
it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22556 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
-Gerald you must be drunk tonite.



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Put some elephant nose, some tiger, and some lion fish, so with
your clown
> you will have a full circus
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Paul
> Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 16:09
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
>
> Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22557 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Since I'm with so much knowledgeable people, why you have ammonia in the
well ?? it have to come from an ammonium salt or may be from decomposing
shit, urine or what ever, would you drink your water knowing that ???? Even
if Steve or Lenny or the EPA say it's ok , would you risk you child made
blood poisoning because of too much nitrate, as I said 10 in the tank 30 in
the well, I suspect also than the kit do not show the good quantity, it show
less, because I will be surprise the tank is at 10


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

Gerard,

I think what Steve is saying is that in the USA, the EPA has set a limit of
no more than 10ppm of nitrates in tap/drinking water but there are countless
water utility companies that do not meet these standards. I have seen many
posts where people have in excess of 20ppm of nitrates in their tap/drinking
water.

Here is a site where many people can check their published water quality
reports. http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

It's 3 time the acceptances. What do you know about it, do not listen this
guy and make your water check by professional. For your understanding,
ammonia in a well and high level of nitrate can means E coli bacteria too.

Steve if you want contradict me do it in a way to not jeopardize with the
healt of human.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:21 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

A good healthy plant growth will remove nitrates from the water.

The EPA has a recommended limit of 10 ppm for nitrates. It is not followed
very much, from my understanding.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de friendtoallfish Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I tested my
tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-10. Then I
tested my well water and the results are ammonia- .25, nitrite-0,
nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that suggestion and it seemed to work
alittle so I left them off alittle longer hoping that it would clear up but
it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22558 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: who are the moderators in here?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22559 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Gerard,

Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide accepted
term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.

The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so Mexicans,
Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from the USA
are "Americans"!

I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from other
countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to do it
illegally as is the current news cycle.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a continent.( o yes
the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian, too,
actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American, have you
ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

Why do you ask that. Im a American.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you Hungarian ???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> >
> >
> > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
the
> pump)
> > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
> canister
> > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> time
> > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
the
> tank ,
> > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
to
> make
> > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
to
> call them
> > power head.
> >
> > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> the water é
> >
> >
> > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
the
> > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
100
> > gph
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > <dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
head ???,
> I
> > gone
> > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > What is a power head?
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica" <jdecorse25@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > didn't
> > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> The
> > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > come
> > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > anything.
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
intake
> of
> > > > ALL filter
> > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> from
> > > the
> > > > strong
> > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > purchased comes
> > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
least
> > came
> > > > with an
> > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> fit
> > > > over the
> > > > > intakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > >
> > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
after
> > > > placing him in
> > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> > water
> > > > flow. It's
> > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> happen
> > > > before. I
> > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > decompressed
> > > > and
> > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
work
> > and
> > > > saw hime
> > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
machine.
> > No
> > > > idea how
> > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > > injured this
> > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > around
> > > > his tail
> > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> much
> > as
> > > > yesterday.
> > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
him
> > > when
> > > > I get
> > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> > What
> > > > should I
> > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> Date:
> > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22560 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
-THANK YOU LENNY!!!!!



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to
do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22561 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
I only take an orange juice in the morning and water all the rest of the
day. ( but without nitrate and Ammonia ) It's just than I decide to take it
more funny.

Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:24
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?

-Gerald you must be drunk tonite.



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Put some elephant nose, some tiger, and some lion fish, so with
your clown
> you will have a full circus
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Paul
> Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 16:09
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
>
> Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
> Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22562 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: LENNY WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22563 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Why you have illegal Canadian in America ??? Funny when I see a blue
passport it does not show citizen of America.

Anyway better I do not cross the border, to much dangerous, plane fall, city
are flood, I can be rape by a priest or worst hit on the road by Paris
Hilton .




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:26
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

Gerard,

Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide accepted
term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.

The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so Mexicans,
Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from the USA
are "Americans"!

I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from other
countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to do it
illegally as is the current news cycle.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a continent.( o yes
the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian, too,
actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American, have you
ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....

Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

Why do you ask that. Im a American.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you Hungarian ???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> >
> >
> > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
the
> pump)
> > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to the
> canister
> > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> time
> > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
the
> tank ,
> > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
to
> make
> > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
to
> call them
> > power head.
> >
> > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> the water é
> >
> >
> > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
the
> > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
100
> > gph
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > <dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
head ???,
> I
> > gone
> > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > What is a power head?
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica" <jdecorse25@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > didn't
> > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> The
> > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > come
> > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > anything.
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
intake
> of
> > > > ALL filter
> > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> from
> > > the
> > > > strong
> > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > purchased comes
> > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
least
> > came
> > > > with an
> > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> fit
> > > > over the
> > > > > intakes.
> > > > >
> > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > >
> > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
after
> > > > placing him in
> > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use for
> > water
> > > > flow. It's
> > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> happen
> > > > before. I
> > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > decompressed
> > > > and
> > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
work
> > and
> > > > saw hime
> > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
machine.
> > No
> > > > idea how
> > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he looked
> > > > injured this
> > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > around
> > > > his tail
> > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> much
> > as
> > > > yesterday.
> > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
him
> > > when
> > > > I get
> > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the bottom.
> > What
> > > > should I
> > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> Date:
> > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22564 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
What a attitude.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Why you have illegal Canadian in America ??? Funny when I see a
blue
> passport it does not show citizen of America.
>
> Anyway better I do not cross the border, to much dangerous, plane
fall, city
> are flood, I can be rape by a priest or worst hit on the road by
Paris
> Hilton .
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to
do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22565 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
What about my attitude, every time I visit an other country, people turn
friendly when they see I'm not British, German or American.

Focus on the problem you create in the world instead of mine.


Gérard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22566 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Gérard
I agree what a moron.


memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
What a attitude.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Why you have illegal Canadian in America ??? Funny when I see a
blue
> passport it does not show citizen of America.
>
> Anyway better I do not cross the border, to much dangerous, plane
fall, city
> are flood, I can be rape by a priest or worst hit on the road by
Paris
> Hilton .
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to
do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>






---------------------------------
Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22567 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Miss Memphis, at least I sign my post, I do not hide at the back of a nick.
I do not know why you ask the moderators, he know very well I can use an
other name to post, I can even use your own email address. But nothing to be
worry, I'm living now.









-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de memphisgirl39
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:45
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!

What a attitude.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Why you have illegal Canadian in America ??? Funny when I see a
blue
> passport it does not show citizen of America.
>
> Anyway better I do not cross the border, to much dangerous, plane
fall, city
> are flood, I can be rape by a priest or worst hit on the road by
Paris
> Hilton .
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to
do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22568 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gérard
Moron, Sorry it's a French word not use in French Canadian language .

I don'T know who is the more moron , the one who can post on fish or the one
who are only able to name other A.H.

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de tommy thompson
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:58
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : [AquaticLife] Gérard

I agree what a moron.


memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
What a attitude.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Why you have illegal Canadian in America ??? Funny when I see a
blue
> passport it does not show citizen of America.
>
> Anyway better I do not cross the border, to much dangerous, plane
fall, city
> are flood, I can be rape by a priest or worst hit on the road by
Paris
> Hilton .
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:26
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try to
do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22569 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Gerard
How about moving on. No one here wants to put up with your bickering.

Gerard Gagnon <dataxpert@...> wrote:
What about my attitude, every time I visit an other country, people turn
friendly when they see I'm not British, German or American.

Focus on the problem you create in the world instead of mine.

Gérard






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22570 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Gérard
No to bad a Moron have a IQ of 51-70

How much you give to a woman who can not figure what is a power head, after
someone post a pics and a description I will guess Idiot ( IQ of 0-25)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22571 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Nation bashing or cultural slams
We all know this is an aquarium group and denigrating other cultures and
nations is unacceptable behavior.

As a suggestion we should all start using the delete button and perhaps not
reply to any ugly emails. I myself had to stop from making several hasty angry
replies tonight.

Not a moderator here, but on other fish lists.
Mike



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22572 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: new topic, pleco foods
I have fed algae wafers to my algae eating fish like Plecostomus, Otocinclus,
and Garra Garra for some time.
I have also fed them cucumbers and zucchini. I know cucumbers are not
necessarily the most nutritious food for them and I recall a friend saying he fed
his a large piece of sweet potato. Tonight I bought a sweet potato and am
wondering if there is anything I need to do to prepare it other than a good washing?

Thank you.
Mike



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22573 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: new topic, pleco foods
Here's two articles I have in my favorites folder for "Pleco Foods"
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31574
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

I think most veggies can be fed to plecos raw since they have raspy teeth.
Heck, mine chews on the driftwood and eats it. For other fish, the tough
veggies should probably be blanched first.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 12:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] new topic, pleco foods

I have fed algae wafers to my algae eating fish like Plecostomus,
Otocinclus, and Garra Garra for some time.
I have also fed them cucumbers and zucchini. I know cucumbers are not
necessarily the most nutritious food for them and I recall a friend saying
he fed his a large piece of sweet potato. Tonight I bought a sweet potato
and am wondering if there is anything I need to do to prepare it other than
a good washing?

Thank you.
Mike

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date: 5/15/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22574 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: Re: new topic, pleco foods
Thank you Lenny,
I am going to go read those right now.

Mike

In a message dated 5/16/2007 10:59:27 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Here's two articles I have in my favorites folder for "Pleco Foods"
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31574
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

I think most veggies can be fed to plecos raw since they have raspy teeth.
Heck, mine chews on the driftwood and eats it. For other fish, the tough
veggies should probably be blanched first.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22575 From: harry perry Date: 5/16/2007
Subject: second notice
If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will be some deletions.

Harry


Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22576 From: c j Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -

Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as well.
Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not approved by
the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use other peoples
yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the mods caught
him.

I see he has found a new home.

Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.

You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is not an easy
task!

Cj

On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
>
> If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will be some
> deletions.
>
> .
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22577 From: L Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: I thought this was suppose to be a fish GROUP!
Since I have joined, I have heard so much bashing of others. That is
horrible. Some people on this group have been very nasty and have come
across very rude. I don't think it's very nice at all and you know who
you are. If it continues I will just leave the group. I am sure that
you are trying your best to keep it peaceful Harry, but sometimes it's
hard to keep out the BAD EGGS!!!!! Good luck...

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22578 From: Jessica Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Memphis
I didn't know what a powerhead was at first either. It's a
submersible motor that sucks water in one end and blows it out the
other to create a current that simulates the actual ocean water flow.
I DID have two in my tank for my clowns, but I had to turn them off
due to our puffer getting sucked into the bottom of it. No, Gerard,
it's not a reef tank. We got them for the clowns. We currently have
2 clowns, 1 volital lionfish and 1 puffer. I know the clowns will be
food soon, that's why I'm setting up a separate tank for them before
that happens. The lionfish is still too small to eat them. I do
appreciate all the help, but I don't like how by asking a simple
question someone got slammed. If you don't ask, you'll never know.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22579 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Gérard
So you have a high IQ. Your english is poor
and you have no common sense.

Better luck next time trying to spoof my email address.

Gerard Gagnon <thompsontl36@...> wrote:
No to bad a Moron have a IQ of 51-70

How much you give to a woman who can not figure what is a power head, after
someone post a pics and a description I will guess Idiot ( IQ of 0-25)






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22580 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: This is so childish, come on guys!
Are we adults or out of school early for the summer? This is a FISH
forum, to get advice, ideas and talk with others about a common
hobby. Stop all of this. I have asked for advise from adults, not
my son's playmates. You guys have such a great knowledge of fish
and great suggestions and ideas but yet you will play childish games
(you know who you are) and respond to childish gmaes (you know who
you are). Let it be. Stop badgering people, stop making fun of, amd
most of all, to stop his fun, stop replying to it. It just feeds
his need more. He will evenutally get bored and move on to another
group of people to harass. As for the harasser, use your knowledge
to help others, just because they don't know what something is
doesn't make them stupid or have a low IQ, it makes them uniformed,
which is why alot of us are here. So help and stop being an ass and
inform people and put your knowledge to good use. A brain is
nothing unless you use it.
I am signing my name, I am American and I AM very smart, but want
others help and advice when I need it to keep my pets living and
healthy.

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22581 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: (no subject)
So you have a high IQ. Your english is poor and you have no common sense.
Better luck next time trying to spoof my email address



Better than your french and German



For your email anytime





Try to figure how smart ass







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22582 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Gerard Problem
I'm not member here anymore, so I can be Ban so when people will start to
talk about fish hand not me you will not see me anymore



It's what happen also in the other group, they have not stop me I stop my
self.



As for the naming it's mr. Thomson who start to say I'm Moron, I was just
criticizes the Politic, not naming people



My suggestion, you change subject and you put mr. Thomson in moderation,




No Gerard posting, no Gerard on the group simple .













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22583 From: tommy thompson Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re:
Oh goody you tried again and failed again. It still has your ip and name on it.
My German is perfect. Who want to learn french? How's your Chinese, Korean and Thai?

Yes my ass is smarter than you.

Gerard Gagnon <thompsontl36@...> wrote:
So you have a high IQ. Your english is poor and you have no common sense.
Better luck next time trying to spoof my email address

Better than your french and German

For your email anytime

Try to figure how smart ass

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22584 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: I think mr. Thomson is making a personal afair of this,
Failure is when you don’t achieve what you expect to do , my goal was not
to pass for you but to post here. 100 % success



No comment from thosmson on gerard no post anymore from Gerard



That’s the deal , sorry group I was gone, but not this guy



Gérard



<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology/>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22585 From: joe t Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Carbon use or no carbon use
I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it. We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium. Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.

joet


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22586 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon is safe to use in a tank,
In my post about rincing my filter cartridges in new setup tanks, I
was in fact doing basically the same thing, introducing the good
bacteria into the tank. Yes there was some "bad" stuff going into
the tank but the carbon that that you use for the same prpose will
have the same "bad" stuff on it.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> Since 20 years now when I buy an Aquaclear filter they always came
with a
> bag of charcoal, I always keep those bag in the top of a filter ,
and when I
> need to cycle a tank I get the bag and put it on the new filter, I
never
> clean them, I have some they are 5 years old or may be more. They
are my
> Bio Spira , my own preserve bacterial colony. I never lost a
fish , aside of
> the one who get old or the new one I bought .
>
> You have people who read to much and do not experience enough, so
they are
> afraid of everything. If few gram of carbon get saturate with some
fish
> urine, what is the problem if it's release after . carbon do not
retain
> heavy poisonous metal.
>
> Since I'm member of list I understand more why people loose fish,
and I see
> no post until now than it was the carbon the cause.
>
> If will really appreciate than if someone have facts than carbon is
> dangerous, show me some referral. Until know I have over 20 old
bags in my
> tank and they gone stay there
>
> P.S I never use carbon for the purpose of absorb something, I use
it only as
> substrates .
>
>
> Gérard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22587 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
I like to tell people to take the length of the fish (not including
the tail) and multiply it by the height of the fish (again not
including the fins). These are in inches. This will give you a
better volulm of water for each fish that you have. It is not the
beat but it beats the one inch per gallon which some people think
applys to all fish. If you put ten ine inch oscars (provided that
they were to satay one inch) in a ten gallon tank then they might be
alright but one ten inch oscar in a ten gallon tank woud be over
kill. The ten inch oscar could not even turn around or just barley.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You shouldn't add anything else to that tank. You are already
well on your
> way to being overstocked. Common goldfish grow to 18" - 24" and
fancy
> goldfish grow to 6" - 8" but are FAT so they are nearly equal in
body mass
> to long-bodied goldfish. I know there are sites all over the net
that says
> 10G per goldfish but that's simply inaccurate information that has
been
> copied over and over by people who have never kept goldfish long-
term.
>
> The minimum you should start off with for baby/juvi goldfish is
15G - 20G
> per goldfish and at least a 4' long tank. As the fish grow, you
will have
> to upgrade up to 50G per goldfish depending on their size.
>
> Here's a good 4 page web-article on goldfish..
> http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
>
> Here's my blog articles on a better "easy" stocking guideline for
all fish.
> The "one inch per gallon rule" does not work except most for
smaller
> tropical fish.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22588 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
I am of native American ancestry (my Great-Great-Great grandfather
was Lame Bull a cheyenne medicine man) and I consider any one that
lives in the Americas as an american iven is the live in South
america near the South Pole. I talk to many people from Brazile and
find out that they are nativr Americans too.People in the United
States of America think of themselves as the only Americans. They
did not even "let the native Americans" become citizens until 1933.
Some "Americans still do not think that native Americans are
citizens of the United States.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Gerard,
>
> Your being petty with your reply. An "American" is the world wide
accepted
> term for someone from the Good Ol' USA.
>
> The continent is actually "North America" or "South America" so
Mexicans,
> Canadians, etc., are all "North Americans" but only us folks from
the USA
> are "Americans"!
>
> I never hear Mexicans, Canadians, Peruvians or anyone else from
other
> countries outside of the United States of America saying they are
> Americans... unless they become legal citizens of America or try
to do it
> illegally as is the current news cycle.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> So you have no Nationality, America is not a county it's a
continent.( o yes
> the America and Americas ) A Mexican is American too, A Peruvian,
too,
> actually 35 county and 16 dependency can say they are American,
have you
> ever thing about it. I really miss my philosophy course.....
>
> Gérard
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la part de memphisgirl39 Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:59 À :
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
>
> Why do you ask that. Im a American.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Are you Hungarian ???
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> De la
> > part de memphisgirl39
> > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:48
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> >
> > -Is that the motor or power on top that runs the filter?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
<dataxpert@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Penguin ???? Can someone live those low end filter for a moment
> > >
> > >
> > > Many years ago the Eheim Filter have the Power Head ( actually
> the
> > pump)
> > > screw on top of the canister, one end of the pump was plug to
the
> > canister
> > > with an o ring, and the on the other end the return tube At the
> > time
> > > people was buying only the pump to make water circulation in
> the
> > tank ,
> > > and with the time some Manufacturier ( Eheim one of them) start
> to
> > make
> > > submersible pump who can be attach in the tank, People continue
> to
> > call them
> > > power head.
> > >
> > > So a power head is a submersible pump use in an aquarium to run
> > the water é
> > >
> > >
> > > Sorry no link for this referral, it's come from my memory.
> > >
> > > Gérard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:04
> > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > >
> > > It looks like in these messages that its parter of the hang of
> the
> > > back filters. Where is it on a Marineland Penguin w/ Bio-Wheel
> 100
> > > gph
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Gerard Gagnon"
> > > <dataxpert@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Let's make it more complicate, why they call it a power
> head ???,
> > I
> > > gone
> > > > give a hint, ( Eheim )
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Gérard
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > > > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] De la
> > > > part de memphisgirl39
> > > > Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 20:46
> > > > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > >
> > > > What is a power head?
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Jessica"
<jdecorse25@>
> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > He wasn't sick, he was swimming everywhere. The powerheads
> > > didn't
> > > > > come with a screen, I found out that you can purchase them
> > > > > separately though. I'm headed out today to get two of them.
> > The
> > > > > powerheads were also set on the lowest they'll go. It
didn't
> > > come
> > > > > with a spounge or anything, so I didn't think it needed
> > > anything.
> > > > >
> > > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > > > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > You should have a intake screen of some sort over the
> intake
> > of
> > > > > ALL filter
> > > > > > systems and power heads. That keeps fish far enough away
> > from
> > > > the
> > > > > strong
> > > > > > suction of the actual tube. Every filter system I've ever
> > > > > purchased comes
> > > > > > with this safety screen. I thought most powerheads at
> least
> > > came
> > > > > with an
> > > > > > intake sponge cover and some have mini filter systems
that
> > fit
> > > > > over the
> > > > > > intakes.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > > > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > > > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > > > > > Behalf Of Jessica
> > > > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:44 AM
> > > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Help!!! Dogface puffer!
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I bought a dogface puffer yesterday and not 30 minutes
> after
> > > > > placing him in
> > > > > > the tank he was sucked up into the powerhead that I use
for
> > > water
> > > > > flow. It's
> > > > > > an AquaClear 4000. I have two of them and never had this
> > happen
> > > > > before. I
> > > > > > pushed him out of the bottom with the fish net and he
> > > > decompressed
> > > > > and
> > > > > > seemed fine, you know swimming and staying away from the
> > > > > powerhead. This
> > > > > > morning however, around 4am, my husband gets up to go to
> work
> > > and
> > > > > saw hime
> > > > > > stuck in it again, but this time his tail was in the
> machine.
> > > No
> > > > > idea how
> > > > > > long he was like that. My husband got him out and he
looked
> > > > > injured this
> > > > > > morning to him, but all I could see was a possible bruise
> > > around
> > > > > his tail
> > > > > > like a ring. He seemed fine, swimming around, just not as
> > much
> > > as
> > > > > yesterday.
> > > > > > Do you think he's fine? I'm going to take another look at
> him
> > > > when
> > > > > I get
> > > > > > home. I'm also going to get the attachement for the
bottom.
> > > What
> > > > > should I
> > > > > > keep an eye on? I feel just awful!!
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > > > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > > > > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release
> > Date:
> > > > > 5/15/2007
> > > > > > 10:47 AM
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying,
> > > thanks.
> > > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > > ((((º>
> > > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > > important to
> > > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
> MODIFY
> > > the SUBJECT
> > > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> > thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> > ((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> > important to
> > > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY
> > the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> > ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.1/805 - Release Date:
5/15/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22589 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
I am glad to se that you have a sence of humor. After all laughter
is the best medicine.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> I only take an orange juice in the morning and water all the rest
of the
> day. ( but without nitrate and Ammonia ) It's just than I decide
to take it
> more funny.
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> part de memphisgirl39
> Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:24
> À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
>
> -Gerald you must be drunk tonite.
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Put some elephant nose, some tiger, and some lion fish, so with
> your clown
> > you will have a full circus
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Message d'origine-----
> > De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
> > part de Paul
> > Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 16:09
> > À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Objet : [AquaticLife] Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
> >
> > Tank mates for a 7" Clown Knife Fish?
> > Any ideas?
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
> ((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22590 From: anne carrera Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: bicher
eventualy it will become a snack its one of their natural foods in the wild-Anne

The Dragon Hunter <dragon.hunter@...> wrote: I was wondering if I could put dwarf frogs in with a Senegal bicher or would
they become a snack for him?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22591 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Joe, As for using carbon in the filters back then (50 years ago),
you're right we never heard of it. That's because carbon for the use
in aquarium filters was not yet on the market. If you recall (if you
used it), activated charcoal was the medium in general use back then,
a much more porous material having an ionic charge. To "recharge"
it, it was recommended to boil it and then bake it for a while -- I
don't remember the time elements here. Whether "recharging" it
worked or not is anybody's guess, although like carbon, it too was
also used to remove dye medications. Back then though, water changes
were just coming into vogue and it did that rather slowly, as "aged"
water was still looked upon as the best (and healthiest) environment
for the fish. While this was especially recommended for Killifish,
which supposedly did not like "new" water, it was applied to most all
species. It was only as a slowly advancing process that took at
least 10 years, from the mid '50's 'till the mid '60's that the
advantages of changing water became more obvious. You may be
referring to water changes toward the end of that period in the early
to mid '60's (40 years ago) when it was more acceptable for
maintenance. Despite it all though, we never lost a fish (or hardly
ever) because of it all, as you said. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it.
We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium.
Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I
did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have
put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control
the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences
to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.
>
> joet
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Building a website is a piece of cake.
> Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22592 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
It is unusual to have no nitrates in a tank, but not unheard of. You
have a fairly light load for the tank right now (keep it that way, and
you'll not suffer some of the problems you see talked about here). If
you have live plants in your tank, they can suck up the available
nitrates for you. If you feed lightly, another plus both for the health
of your fish and the nitrates. This does not mean you can neglect a
regular 10-25% water change each week, it just means you have a well
adjusted tank--the mythical "balanced aquarium" of sorts. (having the
balanced aquarium also means you do not do water changes--pretty much an
impossibility.)

One thing you need to keep in mind is that you have just a 10 gallon
tank, actual water capacity is less after substrate and other things
have been added. Conditions can, and will, change fast if you are not on
top of things.

Congratulations. Success is not an easy thing to come by in this hobby.
It is usually hard won. Keep the practices your have now, and you should
do well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 8:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED

Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and the
ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there were
nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22593 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Are platies and goldies compatible?
The fish you currently have are commonly referred to as cold water fish,
though they are actually temperate water fish. While the platys are not
strictly a tropical fish, they are more so than the ones you currently
have, and my suffer at a constant room temperature. The current fish, on
the other hand, would suffer at a temperature the platys would be
comfortable at.

Also, as Lenny mentioned, you are well on your way to over stocking the
tank. The combination you have now would do far better in a 50-65 gallon
tank. I generally recommend 30 gallons per adult goldfish. Lenny seems
to go a bit overboard, but the more water you can give them, the better
they and you are.

Another factor is that they suffer from different ailments, and if one
is introduced, there is the chance that it can adversely affect the
other, with possible serious consequences.

If you would like to keep some platys, get a tank for them and enjoy.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Are platies and goldies compatible?

I have one large common goldie, one medium-sized fantail, and one rosy
red minnow in a 20-gallon long. The minnow and large goldie get along
fine; in fact the minnow thinks he's a goldie; he grew up with the
common goldie and is very protective of her. (It was quite amusing to
see him herd the large goldie into a corner and "guard" her after I
added the fantail.) I was thinking about adding one or two grown
platies (males) to the goldie tank. Would the large goldie bother the
platies? I figure the minnow won't be happy about it but will get
over it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22594 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon
The reference is from a paper published in AFM or FAMA--I have forgotten which--written by Timothy Hovenac.

I have no more than high school chemistry and what I have read since in regard to water chemistry, plus talks I have attended.

My brother-in-law is a chemist, and I occasionally pry information from him, though water chemistry is not his field. He usually knows where to go for the correct information and can explain some of the more complex stuff at a level I can quickly grasp.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Steve are you a chemist ??? unfortunately I was studying it , In Maine in
2004 , but I temporary stop for family reason, when I will finish it will be
my third PHD

Here a link

http://www.umche.maine.edu/pssp/currstu.htm


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 21:54
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

We are talking carbon in an aqueous environment. Don't care about how they
desorb vapor, don't even care if it is a complete desorbtion. Fact of the
matter is that it does happen, and one does not need high heart and/or
pressure to have it happen. To make it happen faster, a change in pH does
the trick.

Trying to desorb carbon enough to be re-used is a fool's errand, in our
environments, and should not be attempted by the hobbyist.

Carbon should only be used when needed, to adsorb medications or something
else in that tank that may be harmful to the fish.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 11:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

First of all it's not de-sorb it's desorb. You mix selective specific
absorbion by Carbon and Non selective one

The only way to completely desorb an activated carbon (from any content)
is by pyrolisis, at temp . between 600 C and 2000 C with high pressure, now
in industrial usage it's different they use carbon to absorb a specific
chemical. Like if you want to absorb methanol vapour, you will use activated
carbon, to desorb the methanol from the carbon you just heat at 100 C . If
you absorb an acid, a wash in a hydroxide will desorb the acid from the
carbon,

Water treatment with activated carbo is an other story , In a tank it's a
cocktail of stuff the carbon will absorb, so even if you make a selective
desorb the carbon will contain the rest who have not been desorbed, so it
became less and less efficient.

Odours are only desorb with pyrolisis

Gérard



-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 22:43
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Activated carbon does de-sorb, as they call it. In fact, this phenomena is
used in some industrial processes. Desorbtion can be rapid--usually induced
by a rapid change in pH, or gradual. No need for the high temperature you
mention.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2007 7:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

So if they release back they will catch other
You need an oven at blast furnace temperature to release the chemical
absorb any way the biofilm of the bacteria will make a barier


Gérard





-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Steve Szabo
Envoyé : 14 mai 2007 06:04
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Once the carbon is used up, i.e. has collected all that it can of various
molecules, it will tend to leach them back out as well, perhaps in more
dangerous combinations. The only time to use carbon would be to remove a
medication from the water, or other substance used to treat the aquarium.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 11:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

Lenny UPS ??? so I'm not the only one to use them, on a filter only you can
run for near 3 hours ,

But you don't answer my question, actually charcoal are no use often after 1
hour.

But why remove them after the absorbe some chemical and gas , they become a
good bacterial sustrate. ( but too be honest for the snall quantity they
have in the cartridge)

By the way the charcoal release a lot more dangerous thing than the
phosphate, but let's keep it for an other time

Gerard




-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 13 mai 2007 22:57
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon

The little bit of carbon in the filter cartridge is of no use after a couple
of weeks. Rather than toss out a perfectly good filter cartridge which I
can clean and reuse over and over, I use a separate Purigen media bag in my
other canister filter on the same tank and Purigen is rechargeable and
starts out white and changes to dark brown as it gets "dirty" so you know
when to recharge it. Also, most of the "cheap" carbon used in filter
cartridges leech phosphates into your tank which can cause algae issues for
people with non-planted tanks.

I like having two filters on my big tank for redundancy in the event of a
failure. I also have the Bio-Wheel on a UPS battery backup so if the power
goes out, it keeps running for about an hour. In that time, hopefully I
will be made aware of the outage and take necessary steps to save my
biofilter media from dying.

I still have the original cartridges on most of my filters from several
years ago and by doing basic maintenance/cleaning on them, it keeps my tanks
from ever having cycling issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jerry
Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: How much oxygen do you need in a ten gallon


" modify the filter cartridge by cutting open the plastic section that holds
the carbon and dumped the carbon so I can use and re-use the cartridge over
and over and over. "

Lenny why you remove the charcoal ??? they do a good substrate for the
bacteria .

Gerard
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22595 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: update on cloudy water
Gerard,

Millions and millions of people grew up with lead paint, high nitrates, and all kinds of things that are now considered to be "bad" and "harmful" to the human body. The ability of science to measure ever decreasing quantities of substances in anything tends to lend to the hysteria, amplified by the media looking for the next story that will bring them ratings increases.

When I started keeping fish, nothing was known in the hobby, or known by very few people, about a nitrogen cycle. We strived for something that is known as a "balanced aquarium". While there is no such thing as a balanced aquarium that would require little or no input from the keeper, we did manage to establish the nitrogen cycle. As time went on more and more became known about water chemistry to the hobbyist, and the hobby started changing. We can probably thank those interested in keeping marines for this, and many items developed originally from marine tanks is now found in the freshwater tank.

Even so, there is still a lot we need to learn. Where nitrates is verboten in a marine tank, fresh water fish can live, even thrive in tanks that have nitrates up to about 300 ppm. Not all fish, but some. The same goes with pH. Many fish are actually found in waters that are outside the published limits of pH for them. While fish are very adaptable creatures, especially if the changes are slow, that does not mean we should throw caution to the wind. We should endeavor to learn more about the fish we keep and strive to reproduce the environment they come from.

Nitrates are an end product of what we call the nitrogen cycle, but it is also a beginning point as well, It is utilized by plants, it is utilized by anaerobic bacteria, all to give rise to another nitrogen cycle eventually.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 12:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

Since I'm with so much knowledgeable people, why you have ammonia in the
well ?? it have to come from an ammonium salt or may be from decomposing
shit, urine or what ever, would you drink your water knowing that ???? Even
if Steve or Lenny or the EPA say it's ok , would you risk you child made
blood poisoning because of too much nitrate, as I said 10 in the tank 30 in
the well, I suspect also than the kit do not show the good quantity, it show
less, because I will be surprise the tank is at 10


Gérard






-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] De la
part de Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Envoyé : 17 mai 2007 00:15
À : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

Gerard,

I think what Steve is saying is that in the USA, the EPA has set a limit of
no more than 10ppm of nitrates in tap/drinking water but there are countless
water utility companies that do not meet these standards. I have seen many
posts where people have in excess of 20ppm of nitrates in their tap/drinking
water.

Here is a site where many people can check their published water quality
reports. http://www.epa.gov/safewater/dwinfo/index.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

It's 3 time the acceptances. What do you know about it, do not listen this
guy and make your water check by professional. For your understanding,
ammonia in a well and high level of nitrate can means E coli bacteria too.

Steve if you want contradict me do it in a way to not jeopardize with the
healt of human.

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de Steve Szabo Envoyé : 16 mai 2007 22:21 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

A good healthy plant growth will remove nitrates from the water.

The EPA has a recommended limit of 10 ppm for nitrates. It is not followed
very much, from my understanding.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Gerard Gagnon
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 11:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

That's make no sense, your source water have more nitrate than the tank.

I'm worry about your well, I do not have acceptance standard for consumable
water in US but here in Canada the maximum nitrate is 10 ppm . I will also
check where came the ammonia ( if it's real ammonia, some expire test will
show positive reading) With the result of your well I will go more with a
bacterial gloom , than an algae one, I will certainly do a bacterial test of
the well, what probably happen in your tank, is the bacteria coming from you
well, in contact with the surplus of food multiply in the water before even
find a substrate, a typical bacterial bloom . But you health first, made
that well analyse.


Gérard

-----Message d'origine-----
De : AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
De la part de friendtoallfish Envoyé : 15 mai 2007 10:46 À :
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Objet : [AquaticLife] Re: update on cloudy water

I was thanking everyone that offered suggestions to my problem. I tested my
tank water and the results were ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-10. Then I
tested my well water and the results are ammonia- .25, nitrite-0,
nitrate-30. I done the lights out from that suggestion and it seemed to work
alittle so I left them off alittle longer hoping that it would clear up but
it is still alittle cloudy.
So I have turned my lights back on to help the plants.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Since you were unsure if this cloudy bloom was the result of
bacteria
> or suspended algae, I'm glad to see that your keeping the lights
off
> has helped; this seems to indicate the problem may have been
algae,
> although it still could have coincidentally been bacteria.
Keeping the
> lights off for 4 days is definitely not the best thing for your
live
> plants. I don't know where you obtained that recommendation,
unless
> you took that on yourself. There's no other message going along
with
> your latest post (below) to show who you are posting to, for you
to
> thank. I have seen one post which mentioned having the lights off
for
> a day, but don't know if this is where your reply is directed.
>
> Green water (suspended algae) is the result of the combination of
too
> much available plant food (nitrate, potash and/or phosphate in any
> combination or by themselves coupled with carbon -- as in carbon
> dioxide) and too much light. These excess nutrients can come from
a
> variety of sources including the urea of fish and too much fish
food or
> as excess ammonia in your tap water.
>
> A check of both your tap water and tank water parameters will
point to
> where that problem originates from, if it exists. If your water
> changes are normally done at 35% as you have most recently done,
and
> your tap water turns up next to nothing with ammonia, this should
go a
> long ways in keeping excess nutrients to a minimum unless they are
> constantly being added. Your regular maintenance regimen, as
outlined,
> seems well in order.
>
> Without finding out the reason for the algae bloom -- if that is
what
> it is (and that has not been confirmed) -- but assuming that's
what it
> is, it will only come back again when your regular lighting
schedule is
> resumed, if nothing is being changed. In the meantime, your
plants
> will suffer, ultimately adding to the algae's benefit. You will
> additionally need to find a better balance of light intensity
and/or
> duration, reducing one or the other (or both), to help prevent the
> growth of suspended algae (which loves light). There is the
> possibility that you've added too much plant fertilizer in the
presence
> of a sparse population of the intended recipients (live plants)
with
> still too much light.
>
> No amount of orthodox filtration will entirely filter out most
green
> water algae as there will always be microscopic spores in
suspension.
> Diatomaceous filtration will work however, as will the use of
a "UV"
> (ultraviolet) unit, but the best way to combat any algae is with
the
> use of a sufficient amount of live, healthy, growing plants which
will
> starve out the algae before it can get established, in combination
with
> watching your lighting and your feeding. Your bioload does not
seem to
> be excessive at this point, even though some of your candidates
have
> the potential to eventually become too large for your tank. As
they
> grow too big, they can usually be traded back the the LFS for
smaller
> (or other) specimens. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Just wanted to say thank you for helping me with this problem.
My
> tank
> > has almost cleared up. It is still alittle cloudy, maybe a
couple
> more
> > days of lights out will finish it up. It has been off for 4
days. The
> > question is the lights out period is doing a serious number on
my
> live
> > plants. I don't want to loose my plants but the tank is still
not
> > totally clear yet. I have went to feeding every other day only a
very
> > small amount. I have added another filter a topfin 20(only one I
had
> > availiable). Could I leave the light on now without the tank
becoming
> > super cloudy again? I have only sneeked peaks to make sure
everyone
> > was still with me and then I turned it back off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22596 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help!!! Dogface puffer!
Moderators please delete Gerald.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <dataxpert@...>
wrote:
>
> What about my attitude, every time I visit an other country, people
turn
> friendly when they see I'm not British, German or American.
>
> Focus on the problem you create in the world instead of mine.
>
>
> Gérard
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22597 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
-Your kidding. He used your id?



-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "c j" <callie143@...> wrote:
>
> Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -
>
> Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as
well.
> Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not
approved by
> the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use other
peoples
> yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the
mods caught
> him.
>
> I see he has found a new home.
>
> Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.
>
> You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is not
an easy
> task!
>
> Cj
>
> On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
> >
> > If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will be
some
> > deletions.
> >
> > .
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22602 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
Thank you so much. Its been hard. I do have quite a few of live
plants in there so maybe thats why I have no nitrates. I dont feed
the fish much either. I was thinking the bio wheel filter has helped
too. Thanks for the compliment.





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> It is unusual to have no nitrates in a tank, but not unheard of. You
> have a fairly light load for the tank right now (keep it that way,
and
> you'll not suffer some of the problems you see talked about here).
If
> you have live plants in your tank, they can suck up the available
> nitrates for you. If you feed lightly, another plus both for the
health
> of your fish and the nitrates. This does not mean you can neglect a
> regular 10-25% water change each week, it just means you have a well
> adjusted tank--the mythical "balanced aquarium" of sorts. (having
the
> balanced aquarium also means you do not do water changes--pretty
much an
> impossibility.)
>
> One thing you need to keep in mind is that you have just a 10 gallon
> tank, actual water capacity is less after substrate and other things
> have been added. Conditions can, and will, change fast if you are
not on
> top of things.
>
> Congratulations. Success is not an easy thing to come by in this
hobby.
> It is usually hard won. Keep the practices your have now, and you
should
> do well.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 8:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] IS THIS 2 MONTH OLD 10 GALLON CYCLED
>
> Now there is no ammonia, never been any nitrites aro nitrates and
the
> ph is 7.8 with temp 74. I thought when it was cycled that there
were
> nitrates in there. I still have 3 mollys, a guppy and a platy.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22603 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: Memphis
Thank you Jessica!!!!!Ya that is what this group is for is to ask
questions about fish.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> I didn't know what a powerhead was at first either. It's a
> submersible motor that sucks water in one end and blows it out the
> other to create a current that simulates the actual ocean water
flow.
> I DID have two in my tank for my clowns, but I had to turn them off
> due to our puffer getting sucked into the bottom of it. No, Gerard,
> it's not a reef tank. We got them for the clowns. We currently have
> 2 clowns, 1 volital lionfish and 1 puffer. I know the clowns will be
> food soon, that's why I'm setting up a separate tank for them before
> that happens. The lionfish is still too small to eat them. I do
> appreciate all the help, but I don't like how by asking a simple
> question someone got slammed. If you don't ask, you'll never know.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22604 From: c j Date: 5/17/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Oops. I did't realize this had posted to the entire group. Suppose I
should have looked a bit better then I did.

He's alreayd found a new aqurium group now.

On 5/17/07, memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> -Your kidding. He used your id?
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "c j"
> <callie143@...> wrote:
> >
> > Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -
> >
> > Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as
> well.
> > Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not
> approved by
> > the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use other
> peoples
> > yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the
> mods caught
> > him.
> >
> > I see he has found a new home.
> >
> > Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.
> >
> > You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is not
> an easy
> > task!
> >
> > Cj
> >
> > On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will be
> some
> > > deletions.
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22605 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Donna, You seem incredulous about this possibility. I was too until
he proved he could do it. I never did understand how he managed it,
but one of the moderators on that other Group figured it out. He
also used my Yahoo I.D. as well as that of another one of the
moderators.

It appears you must have missed it, but he has already done that
here. If you'll check back 14 messages before yours (yours was
posted about 11:59AM yesterday -- message #22597) with our Aquatic
Life group email, or go to our messages archives on our Group Site in
case you've erased your emails, you'll see in message #22584 (at
10:25AM) the post with the Subject Line -- I think mr. Thomson is
making a personal afair of this, -- and in the From Line, you'll find
Tommy's Yahoo I.D. but with Gerard Gagnon next to it. You'll also
see the same, two messages before that (message #22582 at 10:14AM)
with the Subject Line -- Gerard Problem. Guess who wrote them? It
wasn't Tommy.

It had been at first recommended to me that I change my I.D., with
the thinking that he must have somehow stolen my Password, but that
was found not to be the case. He can post using anyone's I.D.,
without having anything more. Unbelievable, huh? Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -Your kidding. He used your id?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "c j" <callie143@> wrote:
> >
> > Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -
> >
> > Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as
> well.
> > Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not
> approved by
> > the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use
other
> peoples
> > yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the
> mods caught
> > him.
> >
> > I see he has found a new home.
> >
> > Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.
> >
> > You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is
not
> an easy
> > task!
> >
> > Cj
> >
> > On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@> wrote:
> > >
> > > If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will
be
> some
> > > deletions.
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22606 From: Gerard Gagnon Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: message to Raymond and Cali
I’m not surprise to see so many mistakes in your post



Ray , it’s not the moderator who figure out, I explain how to do it in an
email, you see no post of me in Tropical, because I left the group and no
one talk about me, As I said , I will stop to post here when I will not see
my name anymore, but you continue to bring it back



Cali, it’s not a new group it’s ore than 1 year old





Sorry Harry to use you ID , but you know me I have to correct mistake .





Gérard



<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology/>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22607 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
This is done with email spoofing where he changes his outgoing email header
information to show as if it is coming from a legitimate member.

Spammers and viruses/trojans use spoofing techniques all of the time as
well. When someone gets infected with a virus/trojan, that malware searches
the infected computer for every email address stored on the computer's
various address books, IM programs, etc., and then start sending emails out
to all of these names as if YOU were sending them a message so they don't
think twice about opening the email and attachments, which then infects that
person and the cycle continues.

The simple way to beat this type of issue in a Yahoo Group is to put the
entire group on moderation and check and approve each message sent to the
group. I'm not sure if it can be spoofed by visiting the website to post a
message as that would require a sign-in password. The spoofing technique
does work on emailed posts.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 6:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: second notice

Donna, You seem incredulous about this possibility. I was too until he
proved he could do it. I never did understand how he managed it, but one of
the moderators on that other Group figured it out. He also used my Yahoo
I.D. as well as that of another one of the moderators.

It appears you must have missed it, but he has already done that here. If
you'll check back 14 messages before yours (yours was posted about 11:59AM
yesterday -- message #22597) with our Aquatic Life group email, or go to our
messages archives on our Group Site in case you've erased your emails,
you'll see in message #22584 (at
10:25AM) the post with the Subject Line -- I think mr. Thomson is making a
personal afair of this, -- and in the From Line, you'll find Tommy's Yahoo
I.D. but with Gerard Gagnon next to it. You'll also see the same, two
messages before that (message #22582 at 10:14AM) with the Subject Line --
Gerard Problem. Guess who wrote them? It wasn't Tommy.

It had been at first recommended to me that I change my I.D., with the
thinking that he must have somehow stolen my Password, but that was found
not to be the case. He can post using anyone's I.D., without having anything
more. Unbelievable, huh? Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -Your kidding. He used your id?
>
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"c j" <callie143@> wrote:
> >
> > Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -
> >
> > Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as
> well.
> > Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not
> approved by
> > the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use
other
> peoples
> > yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the
> mods caught
> > him.
> >
> > I see he has found a new home.
> >
> > Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.
> >
> > You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is
not
> an easy
> > task!
> >
> > Cj
> >
> > On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@> wrote:
> > >
> > > If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will
be
> some
> > > deletions.
> > >
> > > .
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.3/809 - Release Date: 5/17/2007
5:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22608 From: Jessica Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Algae problem
I have what I'm guessing to be an algae problem in my saltwater tank.
I currently have a puffer, volial lionfish, 2 percula clowns and a
large hermit crab in there. I had 5 turbo snails and a sea urchin for
the problem which was solved until the crab ate them. What can I put
in my tank for the problem that won't get eatin?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22609 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: stealing email addresses Re: second notice
I tried it about 8 or 10 years ago.
It can be easily done, although I do not recall how I did it at the time. Better off not sharing that kind of information anyway.
Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: sevenspringss@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 18 May 2007 4:46 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: second notice


Donna, You seem incredulous about this possibility. I was too until
he proved he could do it. I never did understand how he managed it,
but one of the moderators on that other Group figured it out. He
also used my Yahoo I.D. as well as that of another one of the
moderators.

It appears you must have missed it, but he has already done that
here. If you'll check back 14 messages before yours (yours was
posted about 11:59AM yesterday -- message #22597) with our Aquatic
Life group email, or go to our messages archives on our Group Site in
case you've erased your emails, you'll see in message #22584 (at
10:25AM) the post with the Subject Line -- I think mr. Thomson is
making a personal afair of this, -- and in the From Line, you'll find
Tommy's Yahoo I.D. but with Gerard Gagnon next to it. You'll also
see the same, two messages before that (message #22582 at 10:14AM)
with the Subject Line -- Gerard Problem. Guess who wrote them? It
wasn't Tommy.

It had been at first recommended to me that I change my I.D., with
the thinking that he must have somehow stolen my Password, but that
was found not to be the case. He can post using anyone's I.D.,
without having anything more. Unbelievable, huh? Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> -Your kidding. He used your id?
>
>
> Recent Activity
14New Members
2New Links
Visit Your Group
SPONSORED LINKS
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________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22610 From: Aaron Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
HELP!

THIS IS A SPOOF EMAIL -

Gerard is using Harrys ID, is that not considered ID Theft?

That is a violation of Federal Law and a matter for the FCC, the
WCCC, the FBI, as well as local authorities and can be brought to
Civil Court.

Does Yahoo have any responsibility in this matter? Are there any TOS
Violations?

He is the Owner of the Yahoo Group "aquariology"

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology

He is not even a member of our group.

I have banned his Yahoo ID - "gerard_gagnon_1960" - however that is
useless since he continues to post freely using ID's of other
Members, it is obvious when he does so as in the original post below -

(In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon" <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:)

He uses his name with Harry's ID.

Here is the link to his ID -

http://profiles.yahoo.com/gerard_gagnon_1960


Basics
Yahoo! ID: gerard_gagnon_1960 Real Name: Gérard Gagnon


How can we Stop him from any further posts?


Should I delete all his posts on here or leave them as evidence?


Please Help,
Aaron


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon"
<harryfisherman@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not surprise to see so many mistakes in your post
>
>
>
> Ray , it's not the moderator who figure out, I explain how to do
it in an
> email, you see no post of me in Tropical, because I left the group
and no
> one talk about me, As I said , I will stop to post here when I will
not see
> my name anymore, but you continue to bring it back
>
>
>
> Cali, it's not a new group it's ore than 1 year old
>
>
>
>
>
> Sorry Harry to use you ID , but you know me I have to correct
mistake .
>
>
>
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology/>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22611 From: c j Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
Gerard has a habit of traveling about Yahoo and doing this on other aquatic
groups as well. He's like a child - he likes the attention that he is
getting form doing it. He's been banned from other groups as well, but when
he uses another persons email, it goes through anyway.

You're best bet is to switch to moderating all posts until he grows tired of
these little games and moves along to play on another group.

Other then that, I would just ignore what's he's already put up. Just as
with most chilren, he will grow tired of not getting the attention and move
along.

Just my two cents.

On 5/18/07, Aaron <massagetherapist@...> wrote:
>
>
> HELP!
>
> THIS IS A SPOOF EMAIL -
>
> Gerard is using Harrys ID, is that not considered ID Theft?
>
> That is a violation of Federal Law and a matter for the FCC, the
> WCCC, the FBI, as well as local authorities and can be brought to
> Civil Court.
>
> Does Yahoo have any responsibility in this matter? Are there any TOS
> Violations?
>
> He is the Owner of the Yahoo Group "aquariology"
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology
>
> He is not even a member of our group.
>
> I have banned his Yahoo ID - "gerard_gagnon_1960" - however that is
> useless since he continues to post freely using ID's of other
> Members, it is obvious when he does so as in the original post below -
>
> (In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Gerard
> Gagnon" <harryfisherman@...>
> wrote:)
>
> He uses his name with Harry's ID.
>
> Here is the link to his ID -
>
> http://profiles.yahoo.com/gerard_gagnon_1960
>
> Basics
> Yahoo! ID: gerard_gagnon_1960 Real Name: Gérard Gagnon
>
> How can we Stop him from any further posts?
>
> Should I delete all his posts on here or leave them as evidence?
>
> Please Help,
> Aaron
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Gerard Gagnon"
> <harryfisherman@...> wrote:
> >
> > I'm not surprise to see so many mistakes in your post
> >
> >
> >
> > Ray , it's not the moderator who figure out, I explain how to do
> it in an
> > email, you see no post of me in Tropical, because I left the group
> and no
> > one talk about me, As I said , I will stop to post here when I will
> not see
> > my name anymore, but you continue to bring it back
> >
> >
> >
> > Cali, it's not a new group it's ore than 1 year old
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sorry Harry to use you ID , but you know me I have to correct
> mistake .
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Gérard
> >
> >
> >
> > <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology/>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22612 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Thats just great. I didnt know that could be done. Yes I do remember
those messages that were not by Mr Thompson. He must be nuts.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> This is done with email spoofing where he changes his outgoing
email header
> information to show as if it is coming from a legitimate member.
>
> Spammers and viruses/trojans use spoofing techniques all of the
time as
> well. When someone gets infected with a virus/trojan, that malware
searches
> the infected computer for every email address stored on the
computer's
> various address books, IM programs, etc., and then start sending
emails out
> to all of these names as if YOU were sending them a message so they
don't
> think twice about opening the email and attachments, which then
infects that
> person and the cycle continues.
>
> The simple way to beat this type of issue in a Yahoo Group is to
put the
> entire group on moderation and check and approve each message sent
to the
> group. I'm not sure if it can be spoofed by visiting the website
to post a
> message as that would require a sign-in password. The spoofing
technique
> does work on emailed posts.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 6:46 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: second notice
>
> Donna, You seem incredulous about this possibility. I was too until
he
> proved he could do it. I never did understand how he managed it,
but one of
> the moderators on that other Group figured it out. He also used my
Yahoo
> I.D. as well as that of another one of the moderators.
>
> It appears you must have missed it, but he has already done that
here. If
> you'll check back 14 messages before yours (yours was posted about
11:59AM
> yesterday -- message #22597) with our Aquatic Life group email, or
go to our
> messages archives on our Group Site in case you've erased your
emails,
> you'll see in message #22584 (at
> 10:25AM) the post with the Subject Line -- I think mr. Thomson is
making a
> personal afair of this, -- and in the From Line, you'll find
Tommy's Yahoo
> I.D. but with Gerard Gagnon next to it. You'll also see the same,
two
> messages before that (message #22582 at 10:14AM) with the Subject
Line --
> Gerard Problem. Guess who wrote them? It wasn't Tommy.
>
> It had been at first recommended to me that I change my I.D., with
the
> thinking that he must have somehow stolen my Password, but that was
found
> not to be the case. He can post using anyone's I.D., without having
anything
> more. Unbelievable, huh? Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > -Your kidding. He used your id?
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "c j" <callie143@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just in case you were not aware, I thought I'd pass along -
> > >
> > > Gerard had similar problems on the Tropicalfishclub at Yahoo as
> > well.
> > > Things ended up coming to a head when some of his posts were not
> > approved by
> > > the moderators. It was then that he figured out a way to use
> other
> > peoples
> > > yahoo id's (and mine was one of them) to post instead, until the
> > mods caught
> > > him.
> > >
> > > I see he has found a new home.
> > >
> > > Just thought I'd pass along that little bit of info.
> > >
> > > You're doing a great job, and I know taking care of a group is
> not
> > an easy
> > > task!
> > >
> > > Cj
> > >
> > > On 5/17/07, harry perry <harryfisherman@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > If we can't be cival and act like mature adults, there will
> be
> > some
> > > > deletions.
> > > >
> > > > .
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.3/809 - Release Date:
5/17/2007
> 5:18 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22613 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: message to Raymond and Cali
-Yep I see what your talking about. Talk about a wacho.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Gerard Gagnon"
<harryfisherman@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not surprise to see so many mistakes in your post
>
>
>
> Ray , it's not the moderator who figure out, I explain how to do
it in an
> email, you see no post of me in Tropical, because I left the group
and no
> one talk about me, As I said , I will stop to post here when I will
not see
> my name anymore, but you continue to bring it back
>
>
>
> Cali, it's not a new group it's ore than 1 year old
>
>
>
>
>
> Sorry Harry to use you ID , but you know me I have to correct
mistake .
>
>
>
>
>
> Gérard
>
>
>
> <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/aquariology/>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22614 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: YA I DO THINK EVERY MESSAGE SHOULD BE MODERATED
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22615 From: Aquatic Life Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Hi All,

I apologize for this intrusion and inconvenience.


Gerard is banned, however, since he does not use his ID it is pointless.

Here is a list of Message #'s and Dates that Gerard has posted using the ID thompsontl36 which is no longer a member here

22584
May 17, 2007
7:25 am

22582
May 17, 2007
7:14 am

22581
May 17, 2007
7:06 am

22570
May 16, 2007
10:09 pm

22568
May 16, 2007
10:03 pm

Gerard Gagnon
thompsontl36@...
thompsontl36

His real ID is -

Gerard Gagnon
dataxpert@...
gerard_gagnon_1960@...


Gerard has also posted using a Moderators ID -

Message #22606 of 22613 < Prev"); // -->

Fri May 18, 2007 5:56 am

"Gerard Gagnon" <harryfisherman@...>
harryfisherman



Sorry Harry, I must change your post status to Moderated for the time being, however you can still approve your own posts.

I have changed the the Group Settings so that Archives may only be viewed by members.


Thank you for your continued patience and understanding in this matter,

Aaron




Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:
Banned more like it.
If he is disrespecting the other members of the group by stealing their
IDs to post with, I also recommend informing Yahoo Mail about his ways
of impersonating other users since he has a yahoo ID, it will be
shocking for him to try to log in one day and find that his ID no
longer works.
It will knock him off other fish groups and close his groups down if he
has any that he did in his Yahoo ID.
I feel this is probably the only way to get rid of him and regain the
peacefullness of the group.
You might want to tell everyone to ignore his posts for now.

Beth




.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>
AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>
Got Fish? ~ do you Yahoo? ~ I've got a group for you! ~
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/join
~ Stop by and see ~ membership is free!
.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>




---------------------------------
Give spam the boot. Take control with tough spam protection
in the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22616 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Aquatic Life moderators
Thank you so much for taking that action on this situation.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22617 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Aquatic Life moderators
You are very Welcome.

We Thank You for your continued support.

We are sad to say we have lost 47 Members so far this Month. It is my
guess that it was a direct result of the unnecesary posts made
by "Gerard" who is not a member here.

I apologize for not paying closer attention to the Groups activity and
will do my best to keep a better watch for these problems in the
future.

Again, Thank You for your active participation in this group.





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Thank you so much for taking that action on this situation.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22618 From: Aaron Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Have a Great Weekend!
Hi All,

Thank You All Very Much for Making this such a Great Group.

Sincerly,
Aaron
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22619 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Or do as he said…quit bringing him up and he will go away…



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aquatic Life
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 8:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from
here?



Hi All,

I apologize for this intrusion and inconvenience.


Gerard is banned, however, since he does not use his ID it is pointless.

Here is a list of Message #'s and Dates that Gerard has posted using the ID
thompsontl36 which is no longer a member here

22584
May 17, 2007
7:25 am

22582
May 17, 2007
7:14 am

22581
May 17, 2007
7:06 am

22570
May 16, 2007
10:09 pm

22568
May 16, 2007
10:03 pm

Gerard Gagnon
thompsontl36@... <mailto:thompsontl36%40yahoo.com>
thompsontl36

His real ID is -

Gerard Gagnon
dataxpert@... <mailto:dataxpert%40bellnet.ca>
gerard_gagnon_1960@... <mailto:gerard_gagnon_1960%40yahoo.com>


Gerard has also posted using a Moderators ID -

Message #22606 of 22613 < Prev"); // -->

Fri May 18, 2007 5:56 am

"Gerard Gagnon" <harryfisherman@...
<mailto:harryfisherman%40yahoo.com> >
harryfisherman

Sorry Harry, I must change your post status to Moderated for the time being,
however you can still approve your own posts.

I have changed the the Group Settings so that Archives may only be viewed by
members.


Thank you for your continued patience and understanding in this matter,

Aaron




Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...
<mailto:spencer_creek_studios%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
Banned more like it.
If he is disrespecting the other members of the group by stealing their
IDs to post with, I also recommend informing Yahoo Mail about his ways
of impersonating other users since he has a yahoo ID, it will be
shocking for him to try to log in one day and find that his ID no
longer works.
It will knock him off other fish groups and close his groups down if he
has any that he did in his Yahoo ID.
I feel this is probably the only way to get rid of him and regain the
peacefullness of the group.
You might want to tell everyone to ignore his posts for now.

Beth

.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>
AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>
Got Fish? ~ do you Yahoo? ~ I've got a group for you! ~
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/join
~ Stop by and see ~ membership is free!
.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>


---------------------------------
Give spam the boot. Take control with tough spam protection
in the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22620 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/18/2007
Subject: Re:
While I completely disagree with what Gerard is doing and I think it's
petty, childish and immature, I'm not sure it rises to the level of identity
theft or anything else that any government agency will get involved in. He
is still using his name on the posts but is merely altering (spoofing) the
header information in his emails so that they "fool" the Yahoo Group into
believing the email is from a legitimate member. He is not actually using
anyone else's email account but is only making it appear to yahoo that the
incoming email is coming from that person and then yahoo posts his name with
the "spoofed" email address. He is able to read the messages we are posting
because he probably has multiple Yahoo ID's signed up on the group. Most
trolls do that so when they get banned under one account, they can still
wreck havoc a little longer by monitoring the group under another ID.

I'm sure it's a TOS violation that Yahoo could do something about...
presuming anyone can actually get Yahoo to respond. They are not the
easiest folks to get to reply to any kind of complaint. There is no theft,
fraud, etc., and he is not trying to pretend like he is someone else. It's
just computer trickery to fool the Yahoo Group filtering system. It's no
different than spam that uses Vi-Aga-Ra instead of the actual name in order
to get through spam filters.

Now, if he used someone's email address and left their name as the sender,
instead of leaving his own name, then the identity theft might have a little
more weight, depending on what the intent was. Intent is always a key
element of a crime. If he was posing as someone else trying to sell
something or get money or anything of value, then "Theft By Fraud" would be
applicable.

In order to completely keep out his replies, the entire group would need to
go on moderation and then each incoming message be screened before being
released for publication. After a few days to a week, he would quit trying
and move on. It's what trolls usually do.

I did go and unsubscribe from the Aquariology group. I thank you for
reminding me that it was his group. There really hasn't been much activity
in that group in a while.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22621 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
Apparently it is very easy for anyone to send a post using anyone elses ID
so it will still not stop Gerard’s childishness this way. Is there any
reporting mechanism for the groups? Sorry if I don’t know what is going on
in the group as I have been on special notices only for the past few months
as I was busy moving home.



Nim



From: AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Aquatic Life
Sent: 19 May 2007 02:33
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?



Hi All,



I apologize for this intrusion and inconvenience.





Gerard is banned, however, since he does not use his ID it is pointless.



Here is a list of Message #'s and Dates that Gerard has posted using the ID
<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&sa=thompsontl36> thompsontl36 which is no
longer a member here



22584

May 17, 2007
7:25 am



22582

May 17, 2007
7:14 am



22581

May 17, 2007
7:06 am



22570

May 16, 2007
10:09 pm



22568

May 16, 2007
10:03 pm




<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&sn=Gerard+Gagnon> Gerard Gagnon

<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&se=thompsontl36@...>
thompsontl36@...

<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&sa=thompsontl36> thompsontl36



His real ID is -




<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&sn=Gerard+Gagnon> Gerard Gagnon

<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&/group/
AquaticLife/msearch?query=gerard&se=dataxpert@...>
dataxpert@...
gerard_gagnon_1960@...





Gerard has also posted using a Moderators ID -



Message #22606 of 22613



Fri May 18, 2007 5:56 am



"Gerard Gagnon" <harryfisherman@...>

<http://profiles.yahoo.com/harryfisherman> harryfisherman





Sorry Harry, I must change your post status to Moderated for the time being,
however you can still approve your own posts.



I have changed the the Group Settings so that Archives may only be viewed by
members.





Thank you for your continued patience and understanding in this matter,



Aaron








Beth Brownell <spencer_creek_studios@...> wrote:

Banned more like it.
If he is disrespecting the other members of the group by stealing their
IDs to post with, I also recommend informing Yahoo Mail about his ways
of impersonating other users since he has a yahoo ID, it will be
shocking for him to try to log in one day and find that his ID no
longer works.
It will knock him off other fish groups and close his groups down if he
has any that he did in his Yahoo ID.
I feel this is probably the only way to get rid of him and regain the
peacefullness of the group.
You might want to tell everyone to ignore his posts for now.

Beth





.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>

AquaticLife - the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group. ><))))º>
Got Fish? ~ do you Yahoo? ~ I've got a group for you! ~

<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/join>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/join

~ Stop by and see ~ membership is free!

.·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><))))º> .·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>





_____

Give spam the boot. Take control with tough
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=47960/*http:/advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbe
ta/newmail_html.html> spam protection
in the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22622 From: c j Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
I am hoping that the moderators have already reported Gerald to Yahoo. I
know that the other group he did this in reported him. Gerald is making an
appearance in another aquatic group now, after creating a ruckus on this one
and causing the loss of members. If the mods will continue to report him -
hopefully Yahoo will investigate his IP address and do something with it to
prevent him from his journey through the aquatic groups to play his childish
games.

He seems to be very knowledgeably from what I've seen, however he has a
different way of thinking then a lot of people. And that is ok. But it
seems that his way is very blunt, and he tends to get a rough in his posts
when someone disagrees with him, or does not move to his view of things
immediately.

It will be just a matter of about a week before he does the same thing he's
done on this group, and the other with his new target. Too bad

Callie.

On 5/19/07, Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:
>
> Apparently it is very easy for anyone to send a post using anyone elses
> ID
> so it will still not stop Gerard's childishness this way. Is there any
> reporting mechanism for the groups? Sorry if I don't know what is going on
> in the group as I have been on special notices only for the past few
> months
> as I was busy moving home.
>
> Nim
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22623 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Lenny.....I need some help
I belong to several goldfish groups and value your advice....I am
having trouble with one of my Orandas...I trimmed his Wen a couple
weeks ago as he had become blind and now sees but when he was blind he
became very sedate...stayed in one place a lot.. close to the bottom.
After the operation I gave him Medigold a couple of weeks after the
operation to prevent infection. He was more active and ate great..and I
decided to give him a Probiotic food (Jump Start) to restore his
intestinal flora and now he is starting to float (first time) I read
that it can cause constipation..I give shelled peas regualarly. The
water is great, temp 74 F, two filtration systems, two 35% water
changes a week, salted the tank, etc ...Would you go back to medicated
food or regular food (Wardeleys Shrimp Pellets and peas)that was
working fine.
Larry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22624 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: How about lets start talking about fish again.
I bought some bio spira today just to make sure my tank is cycled. Only
one store in Memphis would order it. It was a saltwater fish store. Its
strange Im showing no ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. I guess it can
happen thou.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22625 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: Maybe 'Gerald Gagnon' should be removed from here?
What group is he terrorizing now?



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "c j" <callie143@...> wrote:
>
> I am hoping that the moderators have already reported Gerald to
Yahoo. I
> know that the other group he did this in reported him. Gerald is
making an
> appearance in another aquatic group now, after creating a ruckus on
this one
> and causing the loss of members. If the mods will continue to
report him -
> hopefully Yahoo will investigate his IP address and do something
with it to
> prevent him from his journey through the aquatic groups to play his
childish
> games.
>
> He seems to be very knowledgeably from what I've seen, however he
has a
> different way of thinking then a lot of people. And that is ok.
But it
> seems that his way is very blunt, and he tends to get a rough in
his posts
> when someone disagrees with him, or does not move to his view of
things
> immediately.
>
> It will be just a matter of about a week before he does the same
thing he's
> done on this group, and the other with his new target. Too bad
>
> Callie.
>
> On 5/19/07, Nimish Mathur <nimmat4@...> wrote:
> >
> > Apparently it is very easy for anyone to send a post using
anyone elses
> > ID
> > so it will still not stop Gerard's childishness this way. Is
there any
> > reporting mechanism for the groups? Sorry if I don't know what is
going on
> > in the group as I have been on special notices only for the past
few
> > months
> > as I was busy moving home.
> >
> > Nim
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22626 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Are goldfish hard to care for?
I didnt know you had to trim them. Its that what you said.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22627 From: EAR Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Hang in there and enjoy your new aquatic "toy"!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22628 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
Funny thing you should mention that you bought this Bio Spira in a
saltwater fish store. While I assume they ordered exactly what you
told them to (for freshwater); just so you know, there are two types of
BioSpira -- one for freshwater and one for saltwater. You might want
to reread the label just to make sure you've been sold the right one,
if you haven't done so already. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> I bought some bio spira today just to make sure my tank is cycled.
Only
> one store in Memphis would order it. It was a saltwater fish store.
Its
> strange Im showing no ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. I guess it can
> happen thou.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22629 From: Laurie Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Guppys & Glow fish
I have had my guppy's and glow fish (bright colored) housed in the same
tank for about a month and a half now. I know I have at least 4 females
that are pregnant in there, but I'm not getting any fry. It doesn't
look like any of them have released their fry yet either. I'm just
wondering if the glow fish will eat them when they do release them? I
have plenty of plants for them to hide in and alot of other hiding
spots too. I just don't seem to know what I may be possibly doing
wrong.

Thank you in advance.
Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22630 From: WRZ Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: OFF TOPIC ~ Re: WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
This seems like a reasonable question that
has been asked twice and still not answered.

I include that information in my group
descriptions so people never have to pose
this question.

The other alternative is to include this
information in the files section.

The link to the join page seems silly to me.
Anyone who can't figure out how to join the
group without that additional link is probably
too simple to contribute to the group.


Bill Zardus
Camden County, NJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22631 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: puffer fish
my husband and i just bought 2 green puffer fish we have a 40 gallon
octagon tank. we have tried raising oscars{blueish silver ones}in
this tank and they all died, we bought these two and they are doing
well what i dont know is how to make sure the water is right
and how often to clean and how also where can i find snails for
them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22632 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: I need some help
Just like with us humans, some pets just don't like certain foods or the
foods don't like them. If the Probiotic food is causing him problems, you
probably need to move him away from it.

If the wen surgery is healing and no sign of infection and you fed him
antibiotic food for a couple of weeks after, you should be fine. Keep up
with the PWC's and maybe feed him the Probiotic once or twice a week and
also feed peas at the same time which hopefully will keep the gas issue
down. I think the intestinal flora issue is a little overblown as a way for
companies to sell us another product. I've never had to eat special foods
after taking antibiotics over the years and the GI-bugs grew back just fine
but I know some people have more GI problems after taking antibiotics.

If he does OK with the Probiotic on occasion, then slowly go back to his
regular foods the rest of his feedings to see how he does. If he continues
to have floating issues (usually gas which causes floating or constipation
which affects swim bladder function), you may need to look at other foods.
Many people are going to the DIY Gel Foods so the food does not have so much
wheat based fillers (like most fish foods have).

I still use regular flake foods (premium blends but they do have lots of
wheat fillers) but my goldfish do not have digestive problems as long as I
pre-soak the flakes for a couple of seconds before pouring the spoon of
water/flakes into the tank so the flakes sink right away. I'm seriously
thinking about going to a DIY gel food but I'm still going to use all of my
leftover flake foods as a base for the gel food. I'm not going to waste it
all... not as long as my little pigs eat it and don't have probs.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22633 From: Aaron Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: OFF TOPIC ~ Re: WHO ARE THE MODERATORS?
To Contact the Moderators, simply send a message to ~

List owner: AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "WRZ" <ccdogpark@...> wrote:
>
> This seems like a reasonable question that
> has been asked twice and still not answered. ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22634 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: How about lets start talking about fish again.
-
Thank you but he knew it was for a freshwater. We had a pretty long
talk about freshwater stuff while I was there. He said starting a
saltwater tank is very expensive and that since Ive only been into
aquariums for 2 months to wait a long time to do that.


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Funny thing you should mention that you bought this Bio Spira in a
> saltwater fish store. While I assume they ordered exactly what you
> told them to (for freshwater); just so you know, there are two
types of
> BioSpira -- one for freshwater and one for saltwater. You might
want
> to reread the label just to make sure you've been sold the right
one,
> if you haven't done so already. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I bought some bio spira today just to make sure my tank is
cycled.
> Only
> > one store in Memphis would order it. It was a saltwater fish
store.
> Its
> > strange Im showing no ammonia, nitrites or nitrates. I guess it
can
> > happen thou.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22635 From: Erica Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: African Dwarf Frog health
I just bought two African Dwarf frogs, but I am a little nervous about
them b/c I bought one three days ago and it died after two nights. But,
I put the first ADF in with my male betta. I mean, they got along well,
but perhaps it was the aquarium salt that killed my first frog? The two
new frogs are in their own 2 1/2 gallon tank now with only water
conditioner in the water (no aquarium salt). Any ideas?

Thanks,
Erica
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22636 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/19/2007
Subject: Re: I need some help
I have already decided to go back to normal food and no more antibiotic
or probiotic food and wait and see. Thanks for your words of
wisdom....like you I belong to several fish groups and have always
valued your opinons..
Larry
I gave him normal food tonight and so far he has not floated....
Thanks again for your help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22637 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
I'd probably pull the crab out and get another urchin and some more
snails.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae problem

I have what I'm guessing to be an algae problem in my saltwater tank.
I currently have a puffer, volial lionfish, 2 percula clowns and a
large hermit crab in there. I had 5 turbo snails and a sea urchin for
the problem which was solved until the crab ate them. What can I put
in my tank for the problem that won't get eatin?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22638 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Questions about tanks
Hey all. I have been thinking about upgrading one of my ten gallons to
a 20, or possibly larger. Aside from the initial cost of the purchase,
what is the cost differential between a 10, 20, and 30 gallon tank? I
mean, I know there is a water increase, but what about htings like
water conditioner, aquarium salt, etc. Are they way more expensive? Or
about the same? Also, each of my 10 gallons (I have 3) raised my
electrical bill by $10 per month ($30 per month total raise). Do 20
gals use more electricity, or is it about the same? I am planning on
shutting down one of my 10 gals once I get the bigger tank. Thanks in
advance!

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Are goldfish hard to care for?
You do not necessarily need to trim the hood, but, sometimes, when the
growth is aggressive, and it harms the fish, in this case, blinding him,
it can be necessary to perform the operation, gently and carefully.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 7:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Are goldfish hard to care for?

I didnt know you had to trim them. Its that what you said.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22640 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish
The glow fish may make themselves a snack of the fry. The guppies, when
they are getting close to releasing fry will show a darkening in the
area near the anal fin. This is known as the gravid spot. After dropping
fry, this spot will lighten. If you have noticed this cycle, it is
likely the fry were eaten before you saw any. However, after only 1
month in the tank, it is likely not of the female guppies got to this
point. Any that were carrying fry, may have aborted during or shortly
after the move.

While it is true that many livebearers can have more than one batch of
fry from a single insemination, it is possible, though unlikely in a
retail channel, that the females were not inseminated at all. You do ot
mention whether you have any males to go with the females. If you have
no males, then, over a period of time, you will find that any fry
releasing that may happen will diminish, and end.

You do not mention anything about your tank. You should have enough
plants in there that the fry can find enough places to hide to protect
themselves from predation by the other fish, including the one who
birthed them. [It is a cruel world out there and in the aquarium.]


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 9:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppys & Glow fish

I have had my guppy's and glow fish (bright colored) housed in the same
tank for about a month and a half now. I know I have at least 4 females
that are pregnant in there, but I'm not getting any fry. It doesn't
look like any of them have released their fry yet either. I'm just
wondering if the glow fish will eat them when they do release them? I
have plenty of plants for them to hide in and alot of other hiding
spots too. I just don't seem to know what I may be possibly doing
wrong.

Thank you in advance.
Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22641 From: Laurie Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish/ Steve
Yes, I do have males in there with the pregnant females. I still see
the black spots on all of them. I have tried to watch them very
closely to see any changes in them.

I did mention in my previous post about my tank( see below) .... I
had said that I have alot of plants and hiding spots for them to go.

I guess I should be pulling the glow fish out before the guppies do
have their fry... if they still will.

Laurie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The glow fish may make themselves a snack of the fry. The guppies,
when
> they are getting close to releasing fry will show a darkening in the
> area near the anal fin. This is known as the gravid spot. After
dropping
> fry, this spot will lighten. If you have noticed this cycle, it is
> likely the fry were eaten before you saw any. However, after only 1
> month in the tank, it is likely not of the female guppies got to
this
> point. Any that were carrying fry, may have aborted during or
shortly
> after the move.
>
> While it is true that many livebearers can have more than one batch
of
> fry from a single insemination, it is possible, though unlikely in a
> retail channel, that the females were not inseminated at all. You
do ot
> mention whether you have any males to go with the females. If you
have
> no males, then, over a period of time, you will find that any fry
> releasing that may happen will diminish, and end.
>
> You do not mention anything about your tank. You should have enough
> plants in there that the fry can find enough places to hide to
protect
> themselves from predation by the other fish, including the one who
> birthed them. [It is a cruel world out there and in the aquarium.]
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Laurie
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 9:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppys & Glow fish
>
> I have had my guppy's and glow fish (bright colored) housed in the
same
> tank for about a month and a half now. I know I have at least 4
females
> that are pregnant in there, but I'm not getting any fry. It doesn't
> look like any of them have released their fry yet either. I'm just
> wondering if the glow fish will eat them when they do release them?
I
> have plenty of plants for them to hide in and alot of other hiding
> spots too. I just don't seem to know what I may be possibly doing
> wrong.
>
> Thank you in advance.
> Laurie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks
A test kit is a test kit is a test kit. No price change dependent on
tank size.

I've never tracked the cost of my electricity bill in conjunction with
adding a tank, so I cannot comment directly on that. However, you will
need more wattage for the lighting. While you will need a higher wattage
heater, it may not run so long or often, with a larger volume of water,
so that may be a wash, or a slight increase. A larger pump would not
necessarily mean more watts, for your filtration, but it may well.

There will be a slight increase in the amount of water conditioners
used. If you are using aquarium salt, the next time you run out of it,
look at using some kosher salt instead. You'll find a 5# bag of it costs
far less than the small container you purchase at your LFS.

One thing I do find hard to believe is the amount of electricity you
seem to be using. For your 10, you probably have a 25 watt heater. If we
calculate it out, assuming it runs 24/7 (which it definitely does not)
we get this:

((25*24)*30)/1000=18 Kw/ hours.

At the low end, you would probably run 20% of the time. If you are
running more than 60% of the time, you have a problem. You are probably
trying to keep a temperature much higher than the room temperature, and
should this be the case, a larger heater would be in order. 3.6 Kw/hr
would be the amount of power used at the lower end, and 10.8 Kw/hrs
would be the high end.

You can do the rest of the calculations for you other equipment
yourself, and then multiply them by the rate you are paying to determine
the true cost


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 11:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about tanks

Hey all. I have been thinking about upgrading one of my ten gallons to
a 20, or possibly larger. Aside from the initial cost of the purchase,
what is the cost differential between a 10, 20, and 30 gallon tank? I
mean, I know there is a water increase, but what about htings like
water conditioner, aquarium salt, etc. Are they way more expensive? Or
about the same? Also, each of my 10 gallons (I have 3) raised my
electrical bill by $10 per month ($30 per month total raise). Do 20
gals use more electricity, or is it about the same? I am planning on
shutting down one of my 10 gals once I get the bigger tank. Thanks in
advance!

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22643 From: Larry Nave Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Are goldfish hard to care for?
When I mentioned Trim the Wen....this is the headgrowth of Orandas...some head growth will grow down over their eyes and blind them. So far I have had to only trim #2 fish for this reason....my other Orandas do not have that problem. When they go blind I feel it really improves their quality of life...otherwise I do not operate on my fish.
Larry
Karen and Larry
l.nave(at)comcast.net
Lefty,Indy,Molly and fish

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22644 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: Guppys & Glow fish/ Steve
Well, it depends on what you want. My grandmother had a guppy tank. Just
guppies. They kept the tank populated through many, many generations. I
don't know what happened to the fish when she died, but I still have an
ornament from that tank, and the tank itself was in the family for quite
some time (it may even be up in my parent's attic now). But, you could
see the population cycles. There would be a build-up of the population,
then a crash (too many fish in the tank) and then another build-up.

While the adult guppies will help keep the population somewhat in check,
they will not do it alone. Having the other fish available in the same
tank can serve as a population control for you. Putting some java moss
in the tank, both high and low, will help you keep some of the fry
alive. Also using floating plants with a good root base will also help,
or rooted plants with fine leaves planted thickly.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2007 7:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Guppys & Glow fish/ Steve

Yes, I do have males in there with the pregnant females. I still see
the black spots on all of them. I have tried to watch them very
closely to see any changes in them.

I did mention in my previous post about my tank( see below) .... I
had said that I have alot of plants and hiding spots for them to go.

I guess I should be pulling the glow fish out before the guppies do
have their fry... if they still will.

Laurie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> The glow fish may make themselves a snack of the fry. The guppies,
when
> they are getting close to releasing fry will show a darkening in the
> area near the anal fin. This is known as the gravid spot. After
dropping
> fry, this spot will lighten. If you have noticed this cycle, it is
> likely the fry were eaten before you saw any. However, after only 1
> month in the tank, it is likely not of the female guppies got to
this
> point. Any that were carrying fry, may have aborted during or
shortly
> after the move.
>
> While it is true that many livebearers can have more than one batch
of
> fry from a single insemination, it is possible, though unlikely in a
> retail channel, that the females were not inseminated at all. You
do ot
> mention whether you have any males to go with the females. If you
have
> no males, then, over a period of time, you will find that any fry
> releasing that may happen will diminish, and end.
>
> You do not mention anything about your tank. You should have enough
> plants in there that the fry can find enough places to hide to
protect
> themselves from predation by the other fish, including the one who
> birthed them. [It is a cruel world out there and in the aquarium.]
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Laurie
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 9:06 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppys & Glow fish
>
> I have had my guppy's and glow fish (bright colored) housed in the
same
> tank for about a month and a half now. I know I have at least 4
females
> that are pregnant in there, but I'm not getting any fry. It doesn't
> look like any of them have released their fry yet either. I'm just
> wondering if the glow fish will eat them when they do release them?
I
> have plenty of plants for them to hide in and alot of other hiding
> spots too. I just don't seem to know what I may be possibly doing
> wrong.
>
> Thank you in advance.
> Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22645 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: koi & crickets
Does anyone know if koi will eat crickets? I have been feeding crickets
to my bluegills for about two years and it is amazing to watch. I have
a 2000 gallon pond in my backyard stocked with bluegills and channel
catfish. Yes I know its weird but I wanted to do something different.
Long story short the bluegills never seemed very exited about pellets
and not being colorful like koi I didn't get to see them very often
because the pond is 4 feet deep and the bluegills are quite shy. They
were healthy and growing but when I started feeding them crickets they
went crazy! Now they follow me around the pond whenever I'm around. The
catfish devour pellets and I get to watch them feeding while the
bluegills hang back and watch and wait. I then go and harvest crickets
from an old refrigerator I converted to a heated cabinet. When I get
back the pellets are gone and so are the catfish but the bluegills are
there waiting for their crickets! When I dump the crickets in the water
explodes in numerous splashes as the bluegills get their crickets. The
catfish recently started trying to get crickets but most of the time a
bluegill will jump right over them or knock them out of the way to get
one. I have no experience with koi but I do know they grow fast and
believe they are more active than catfish. I'm wondering if I add some
koi will they compete for the crickets?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22646 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Thats cool!

Do you have any photos the bluegill in the pond? Especially feeding?

I think someday I would like to keep a few native species of fish. Besides
my Heterandria formosa.

Mike

In a message dated 5/20/2007 9:15:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
pondat2001@... writes:

When I get
back the pellets are gone and so are the catfish but the bluegills are
there waiting for their crickets! When I dump the crickets in the water
explodes in numerous splashes as the bluegills get their crickets. The
catfish recently started trying to get crickets but most of the time a
bluegill will jump right over them or knock them out of the way to get
one.





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22647 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/20/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Yes I have pictures on my website although they are not great
quality. I have some much better but have not posted them yet. Even
have a video of the bluegills beating the catfish to the crickets. My
short pond gallery is at http://www.dpdigitalcontrol.com/page45.html
and a larger cricket breeding gallery is at
http://www.dpdigitalcontrol.com/page24.html . Just click on the
thumbnails for a larger picture. I hope you enjoy the pictures. My
pond isn't pretty. It was done on a very short shoestring of a
budget. I have a better camera now and have taken better pictures but
haven't posted them yet.
Thanks for your interest.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Thats cool!
>
> Do you have any photos the bluegill in the pond? Especially
feeding?
>
> I think someday I would like to keep a few native species of fish.
Besides
> my Heterandria formosa.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 5/20/2007 9:15:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> pondat2001@... writes:
>
> When I get
> back the pellets are gone and so are the catfish but the bluegills
are
> there waiting for their crickets! When I dump the crickets in the
water
> explodes in numerous splashes as the bluegills get their crickets.
The
> catfish recently started trying to get crickets but most of the
time a
> bluegill will jump right over them or knock them out of the way to
get
> one.
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22648 From: Memrie Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: koi & crickets
Great pics, and believe me, I would love to have a pond but don't
even have a shoestring to budget. LOL

mem
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pondat2001" <pondat2001@...>
wrote:
>
> Yes I have pictures on my website although they are not great
> quality. I have some much better but have not posted them yet. Even
> have a video of the bluegills beating the catfish to the crickets.
My
> short pond gallery is at
http://www.dpdigitalcontrol.com/page45.html
> and a larger cricket breeding gallery is at
> http://www.dpdigitalcontrol.com/page24.html . Just click on the
> thumbnails for a larger picture. I hope you enjoy the pictures. My
> pond isn't pretty. It was done on a very short shoestring of a
> budget. I have a better camera now and have taken better pictures
but
> haven't posted them yet.
> Thanks for your interest.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > Thats cool!
> >
> > Do you have any photos the bluegill in the pond? Especially
> feeding?
> >
> > I think someday I would like to keep a few native species of
fish.
> Besides
> > my Heterandria formosa.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > In a message dated 5/20/2007 9:15:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > pondat2001@ writes:
> >
> > When I get
> > back the pellets are gone and so are the catfish but the
bluegills
> are
> > there waiting for their crickets! When I dump the crickets in the
> water
> > explodes in numerous splashes as the bluegills get their
crickets.
> The
> > catfish recently started trying to get crickets but most of the
> time a
> > bluegill will jump right over them or knock them out of the way
to
> get
> > one.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22649 From: jett07002 Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Yep. You're right, Ray. Thanks for your kind response. Nice to have
the company. Sounds like you have been at it for awhile, also.
Believe it or not, I ALWAYS did PWCs way back to when I was just
starting as I kid. I always had in my mind that Mother Nature was
always changing the water and this triggered in my mind that I should,
too. The LFSs and other guys who raised fish used to tell me the
water changes weren't necessary if I was running a "filter" (at this
time the box filter with the air hose was the thing. Then the
Aqua-King was coming out, one of the first outside filters that I know
of. Then they were convinced that the water changes weren't necessary
cause this pump was flowing (circulating) water like crazy. Call me
stubborn, but I still was doing water changes often. My first
"aquarium" was a big apothecary jar my mom gave me. I caught a few
killies down the bay and kept them by bringing "new" water everyday
from the bay. (Hey, I was a kid. Had nothing else to do. LOL) But I
was determined that I wasn't gonna do that for too long, so I slowly
acclimated the fish to fresh water one small glass of fresh water at a
time. It worked. I had those fish in fresh water for a few years.
What I was not aware of was the chlorine and that stuff they were
putting in the drinking water. I learned about that when I started
reading the books. Didn't really matter, though, cause I used to keep
the "fresh" water in a couple buckets. I was more concerned about
the temperature, but I guess it took care of the chlorine, too.
When they introduced charcoal around my way, that was exactly what
they called it. Charcoal. I was not so finely ground, either. Then
they decided that chopped charcoal wasn't doing enough, and started to
tout "Activated Charcoal". Low and behold, they started to preach
CARBON----no more charcoal, we had "Activated Carbon" and the price
went up about double. Ya know what, Ray? I still hardly use it,
still do PWC's and everything's doing just fine.
We've come a long way!
Any way, just wanted to share that with ya. Thanks for your
patience.

JOET

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Joe, As for using carbon in the filters back then (50 years ago),
> you're right we never heard of it. That's because carbon for the use
> in aquarium filters was not yet on the market. If you recall (if you
> used it), activated charcoal was the medium in general use back then,
> a much more porous material having an ionic charge. To "recharge"
> it, it was recommended to boil it and then bake it for a while -- I
> don't remember the time elements here. Whether "recharging" it
> worked or not is anybody's guess, although like carbon, it too was
> also used to remove dye medications. Back then though, water changes
> were just coming into vogue and it did that rather slowly, as "aged"
> water was still looked upon as the best (and healthiest) environment
> for the fish. While this was especially recommended for Killifish,
> which supposedly did not like "new" water, it was applied to most all
> species. It was only as a slowly advancing process that took at
> least 10 years, from the mid '50's 'till the mid '60's that the
> advantages of changing water became more obvious. You may be
> referring to water changes toward the end of that period in the early
> to mid '60's (40 years ago) when it was more acceptable for
> maintenance. Despite it all though, we never lost a fish (or hardly
> ever) because of it all, as you said. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
> keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
> carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it.
> We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium.
> Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> > When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I
> did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have
> put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control
> the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> > As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
> ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences
> to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
> experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.
> >
> > joet
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Building a website is a piece of cake.
> > Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22650 From: Jessica Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
What would I do with the crab though? I don't know if it would
survive out of water. It was in the tank at the store too. I tried
selling him for $10 but no takers. I bet I couldn't even give him
away.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I'd probably pull the crab out and get another urchin and some more
> snails.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae problem
>
> I have what I'm guessing to be an algae problem in my saltwater
tank.
> I currently have a puffer, volial lionfish, 2 percula clowns and a
> large hermit crab in there. I had 5 turbo snails and a sea urchin
for
> the problem which was solved until the crab ate them. What can I
put
> in my tank for the problem that won't get eatin?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22651 From: Jessica Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Update on my puffer
He died Saturday. We went out ot get him some antibiotics and we came
back and he was dead. I think it was the move to the quarentine
tank. We didn't have one already set up so we set our feeder tank as
a quarentine tank. MAN!!! i really wish they would tell you those
things when you buy them. I would have had the powerheads turned
off.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22652 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Try posting him for sale or for free on places such as craigslist.org or on other aquatic forums. I bet someone out there will want him.To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: jdecorse25@...: Mon, 21 May 2007 18:57:24 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem


















What would I do with the crab though? I don't know if it would
survive out of water. It was in the tank at the store too. I tried
selling him for $10 but no takers. I bet I couldn't even give him
away.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I'd probably pull the crab out and get another urchin and some more
> snails.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae problem
>
> I have what I'm guessing to be an algae problem in my saltwater
tank.
> I currently have a puffer, volial lionfish, 2 percula clowns and a
> large hermit crab in there. I had 5 turbo snails and a sea urchin
for
> the problem which was solved until the crab ate them. What can I
put
> in my tank for the problem that won't get eatin?
>

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22653 From: Salmarcus@aol.com Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
You know I usually just sit back and read these post, but now I have to say
something. I'm done, out of here, so long and talk about everything but fish,
you guys are lame.



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22654 From: c j Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Sorry to see you go. I find it kind of ironic though that you are leaving
over something that happened three days ago - was unethically done by
someone else, and has since been taken care of.



On 5/21/07, Salmarcus@... <Salmarcus@...> wrote:
>
> You know I usually just sit back and read these post, but now I have to
> say
> something. I'm done, out of here, so long and talk about everything but
> fish,
> you guys are lame.
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22655 From: c j Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
This was an interesting post. I enjoyed reading about how you did things
'back then' especially since I've only been at this a couple years.

Thanks for sharing that.

callie

On 5/21/07, jett07002 <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Yep. You're right, Ray. Thanks for your kind response. Nice to have
> the company. Sounds like you have been at it for awhile, also.
> Believe it or not, I ALWAYS did PWCs way back to when I was just
> starting as I kid. I always had in my mind that Mother Nature was
> always changing the water and this triggered in my mind that I should,
> too. The LFSs and other guys who raised fish used to tell me the
> water changes weren't necessary if I was running a "filter" (at this
> time the box filter with the air hose was the thing. Then the
> Aqua-King was coming out, one of the first outside filters that I know
> of. Then they were convinced that the water changes weren't necessary
> cause this pump was flowing (circulating) water like crazy. Call me
> stubborn, but I still was doing water changes often. My first
> "aquarium" was a big apothecary jar my mom gave me. I caught a few
> killies down the bay and kept them by bringing "new" water everyday
> from the bay. (Hey, I was a kid. Had nothing else to do. LOL) But I
> was determined that I wasn't gonna do that for too long, so I slowly
> acclimated the fish to fresh water one small glass of fresh water at a
> time. It worked. I had those fish in fresh water for a few years.
> What I was not aware of was the chlorine and that stuff they were
> putting in the drinking water. I learned about that when I started
> reading the books. Didn't really matter, though, cause I used to keep
> the "fresh" water in a couple buckets. I was more concerned about
> the temperature, but I guess it took care of the chlorine, too.
> When they introduced charcoal around my way, that was exactly what
> they called it. Charcoal. I was not so finely ground, either. Then
> they decided that chopped charcoal wasn't doing enough, and started to
> tout "Activated Charcoal". Low and behold, they started to preach
> CARBON----no more charcoal, we had "Activated Carbon" and the price
> went up about double. Ya know what, Ray? I still hardly use it,
> still do PWC's and everything's doing just fine.
> We've come a long way!
> Any way, just wanted to share that with ya. Thanks for your
> patience.
>
> JOET
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "Raymond Wetzel"
>
> <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
> >
> > Joe, As for using carbon in the filters back then (50 years ago),
> > you're right we never heard of it. That's because carbon for the use
> > in aquarium filters was not yet on the market. If you recall (if you
> > used it), activated charcoal was the medium in general use back then,
> > a much more porous material having an ionic charge. To "recharge"
> > it, it was recommended to boil it and then bake it for a while -- I
> > don't remember the time elements here. Whether "recharging" it
> > worked or not is anybody's guess, although like carbon, it too was
> > also used to remove dye medications. Back then though, water changes
> > were just coming into vogue and it did that rather slowly, as "aged"
> > water was still looked upon as the best (and healthiest) environment
> > for the fish. While this was especially recommended for Killifish,
> > which supposedly did not like "new" water, it was applied to most all
> > species. It was only as a slowly advancing process that took at
> > least 10 years, from the mid '50's 'till the mid '60's that the
> > advantages of changing water became more obvious. You may be
> > referring to water changes toward the end of that period in the early
> > to mid '60's (40 years ago) when it was more acceptable for
> > maintenance. Despite it all though, we never lost a fish (or hardly
> > ever) because of it all, as you said. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, joe
> t <jett07002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
> > keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
> > carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it.
> > We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium.
> > Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> > > When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I
> > did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have
> > put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control
> > the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> > > As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
> > ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences
> > to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
> > experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.
> > >
> > > joet
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Building a website is a piece of cake.
> > > Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22656 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: second notice
Which Is pretty…well…lame hehehehe

Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of c j
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 7:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; Salmarcus@...
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] second notice



Sorry to see you go. I find it kind of ironic though that you are leaving
over something that happened three days ago - was unethically done by
someone else, and has since been taken care of.

On 5/21/07, Salmarcus@... <mailto:Salmarcus%40aol.com>
<Salmarcus@... <mailto:Salmarcus%40aol.com> > wrote:
>
> You know I usually just sit back and read these post, but now I have to
> say
> something. I'm done, out of here, so long and talk about everything but
> fish,
> you guys are lame.
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22657 From: pondat2001 Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
I completely agree that carbon is not necessary and that water
changes are sufficient with proper filters to control the nitrogen
cycle. I would like to add a twist though. I breed guppies and don't
always have the time or resources to cull my tanks and change my
water as I should. This results in overcrowding and the inevitable
green water. I used to use carbon to give myself more time and avoid
the negative effects of my neglect. Through a lot of trial and error
and expence in trying different products I found that Purigen works
much better and longer than carbon. Purigen is a synthetic water
purification product consisting of micro porous plastic beads. It is
expensive but if you factor in the fact that it can be regenerated
and actually far outlasts carbon it is actually cheaper to use than
carbon. I have tried brands of carbon that seemed to actually have no
effect at all. Purigen requires very fine filter bags but I solved
that by using wedding sachet bags from the crafts or fabric
department at walmart. They are about $5.oo for a package of 12. My
water stays pretty much crystal clear for months until the purigen
turns black. Regenerating it restores it to nearly its original white
color. None of this is a proper substitute for proper care of your
fish but it has been a lifesaver for my fish. Another helpul thing I
discovered by accident and that I cannot prove scientifically is that
by leaving the covers off my tanks and a fan running in the room
constantly my fish have survived otherwise intolerable neglect. I
refill the tanks when they get too low with straight dechlorinated
water. I normally use 2 tablespoons of salt per ten gallons of water
for new tanks and for water changes but not for refilling evaporated
water. Using salt in repalacement water would raise the concentration
too high. Another good thing to do is to always run two filters in
every tank. That way when you clean one filter and possibly destroy
the nitrification bacteria the other undisturbed filter can take up
the slack until the cleaned one gets recolonized. You can then clean
the other filter in a few weeks. I hope this can help someone. I
don't wish to encourage bad practices but you never know what curves
life may throw your way and it might help to know some solutions if
you find yourself without enough time to properly care for your fish.

Sorry for the length of this post. I didn't intend to write a novel
when I started.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it.
We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium.
Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I
did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have
put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control
the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences
to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.
>
> joet
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Building a website is a piece of cake.
> Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22658 From: ipartyforfun Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Where can I order parrot cichlids?
Does anyone know of any places I can order a parrot cichlid or a few?
The stores around here are not a good pick.

also, we got a royal pleco this past weekend, can anyone give me any
tips on him and do's and don'ts. He is LARGE!!!!

Thanks,
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22659 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/21/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Joe, My pleasure! Always fun to reminisce about my earlier years in
the hobby and the simpler times of fish keeping back then. Just like
you, I've been at it for a good while, more like 60 years. But its
not about how old you are or how many years you've been in the hobby,
its about what you've learned and your experiences -- and the fine
people in this hobby you've met along the way.

Getting back to PWC's, since you've brought it up, you have a great
way of looking at it and if everyone thought that way ("Mother Nature
was always changing the water"), there wouldn't be half the problems
in the hobby as there are now with the beginners. The way I look at
it -- in the stream, the fish has a constant change of water flowing
past it. In the aquarium, that would be ideal if you could have a
flow of fresh water entering one end and emptying from the other end
similarly duplicating this river environment, there really should be
no reason to expect nothing but fish in prime condition at all times -
- with no diseases. While an automatic water changing system is
ideal for most applications, where possible, a strict regimen of
water changes would be the next best thing.

Back in the 30's and presumeably even earlier (no, I don't go back
that far - lol) right up through the early '50's, "old water" was
touted as being best for the fish, with fresh water being looked on
as being "raw", which the fish had to break in and get it old as soon
as possible, for its well being. This "aged" water was thought of as
gold for keeping fish.

I do remember the early box (bottom and/or corner) filters, which are
still being used by many today -- yes, I use them. Before the advent
of Eugene Danner's (Supreme) Aqua-King power filters, I remember
articles in the aquarium magazines of the day (mid '50's) bringing
this "new innovation" to the attention of the aquarium public. This
weas a shockingly new concept back then and eagerly looked forward to
since it was such a great idea. One of the first successful power
filters I believe was Aqua Life, if memory serves me right. I
eventually bought about a dozen of them (still have most -- stored),
which were made of formed stainless steel with 2 small side glasses
and a front glass panel (the back was part of the stainless steel
body). I'm almost sure the Supreme bought them out, as you could
take the motor and pump housing from the Aqua Like and plop it right
onto a Supreme box like it was meant for it. To run them now a days
on a number of tanks would cost you a fortune, but they did a great
job.

Depending on where you lived, those killies you used to catch may
have been Mummichogs, a coastal killie at home in strong brackish or
fresh water. Looks like you were dedicated in acclimating them.
Your adding the fresh water as slow as you did must have prevented
any damage from clorine at the time. With the fresh water being kept
in buckets though, it would have dissipated within 48 hours even
though you didn't have aeration in them.

I'd say most of us started with goldfish, guppies or a few native
fish we brought home from a local water source wd might have
frequented. In my case it was goldfish before going to guppies, but
I had my share of "Punkinseed" Sunnies too, and Golden Shiners. Such
is a blooming aquarist's life - lol.

Yes, we've come a long way, but the basics will always be the same
and you can't go wrong if you adhere to them. Good takin' to ya! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Yep. You're right, Ray. Thanks for your kind response. Nice to
have
> the company. Sounds like you have been at it for awhile, also.
> Believe it or not, I ALWAYS did PWCs way back to when I was just
> starting as I kid. I always had in my mind that Mother Nature was
> always changing the water and this triggered in my mind that I
should,
> too. The LFSs and other guys who raised fish used to tell me the
> water changes weren't necessary if I was running a "filter" (at this
> time the box filter with the air hose was the thing. Then the
> Aqua-King was coming out, one of the first outside filters that I
know
> of. Then they were convinced that the water changes weren't
necessary
> cause this pump was flowing (circulating) water like crazy. Call me
> stubborn, but I still was doing water changes often. My first
> "aquarium" was a big apothecary jar my mom gave me. I caught a few
> killies down the bay and kept them by bringing "new" water everyday
> from the bay. (Hey, I was a kid. Had nothing else to do. LOL)
But I
> was determined that I wasn't gonna do that for too long, so I slowly
> acclimated the fish to fresh water one small glass of fresh water
at a
> time. It worked. I had those fish in fresh water for a few years.
> What I was not aware of was the chlorine and that stuff they
were
> putting in the drinking water. I learned about that when I started
> reading the books. Didn't really matter, though, cause I used to
keep
> the "fresh" water in a couple buckets. I was more concerned about
> the temperature, but I guess it took care of the chlorine, too.
> When they introduced charcoal around my way, that was exactly
what
> they called it. Charcoal. I was not so finely ground, either. Then
> they decided that chopped charcoal wasn't doing enough, and started
to
> tout "Activated Charcoal". Low and behold, they started to preach
> CARBON----no more charcoal, we had "Activated Carbon" and the price
> went up about double. Ya know what, Ray? I still hardly use it,
> still do PWC's and everything's doing just fine.
> We've come a long way!
> Any way, just wanted to share that with ya. Thanks for your
> patience.
>
> JOET
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Joe, As for using carbon in the filters back then (50 years
ago),
> > you're right we never heard of it. That's because carbon for the
use
> > in aquarium filters was not yet on the market. If you recall (if
you
> > used it), activated charcoal was the medium in general use back
then,
> > a much more porous material having an ionic charge.
To "recharge"
> > it, it was recommended to boil it and then bake it for a while --
I
> > don't remember the time elements here. Whether "recharging" it
> > worked or not is anybody's guess, although like carbon, it too
was
> > also used to remove dye medications. Back then though, water
changes
> > were just coming into vogue and it did that rather slowly,
as "aged"
> > water was still looked upon as the best (and healthiest)
environment
> > for the fish. While this was especially recommended for
Killifish,
> > which supposedly did not like "new" water, it was applied to most
all
> > species. It was only as a slowly advancing process that took at
> > least 10 years, from the mid '50's 'till the mid '60's that the
> > advantages of changing water became more obvious. You may be
> > referring to water changes toward the end of that period in the
early
> > to mid '60's (40 years ago) when it was more acceptable for
> > maintenance. Despite it all though, we never lost a fish (or
hardly
> > ever) because of it all, as you said. Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
> > keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
> > carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of
it.
> > We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant
aquarium.
> > Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> > > When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water,
I
> > did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may
have
> > put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help
control
> > the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> > > As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
> > ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into
sciences
> > to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
> > experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to
you.
> > >
> > > joet
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Building a website is a piece of cake.
> > > Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22660 From: Todd Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Sick Eibli
I was wondering if someone could help me, earlier today my Eibli Angel
was doing just fine and when I just checked on the tank he is not
swimming properly, he seems to not be able to stay upright. I moved him
from my 110 and put him in the quarantine tank and was wondering if
anyone knew of any type of medication I could possibly use to try and
save him. I do not see any visible parasites or blemishes on him.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22661 From: Rich Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Re: Where can I order parrot cichlids?
Hi Jennifer, Try centralpets.com click on fish&more in left hand
column then click on freshwater fish then scroll down to royal pleco
click onit then click go there. I hope that helps.
Rich







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ipartyforfun" <Gittieup@...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of any places I can order a parrot cichlid or a few?
> The stores around here are not a good pick.
>
> also, we got a royal pleco this past weekend, can anyone give me any
> tips on him and do's and don'ts. He is LARGE!!!!
>
> Thanks,
> Jennifer
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22662 From: Christa Ciglan Date: 5/22/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog health
Erica, I think you're right about the salt...
They are easy to care for - I have heard of people
bringing them home only to fund whitish 'fuzzy' stuff
on them, and soon therafter they die. The fuzzy stuff
is fungal growth and they were most probably
contaminated at the store. They are pretty hardy but
clean water is an absolute must. Can you hear them
making those grinding noises at night? Listen
closely, you can hear them chatting!

Christa
--- Erica <ericalaurend@...> wrote:

> I just bought two African Dwarf frogs, but I am a
> little nervous about
> them b/c I bought one three days ago and it died
> after two nights. But,
> I put the first ADF in with my male betta. I mean,
> they got along well,
> but perhaps it was the aquarium salt that killed my
> first frog? The two
> new frogs are in their own 2 1/2 gallon tank now
> with only water
> conditioner in the water (no aquarium salt). Any
> ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Erica
>
>
>



Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22663 From: tammy carnevale Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before i bought them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails to control the tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it could also be the puffers, i have a rather large plecostamus in the tank and i keep my puffers well fed to leave him alone and i havent seen eveidence of him being bothered yet weve had them for about 2 weeks

---------------------------------
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22664 From: Beth Brownell Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Sick Eibli
Does he seem to try to swim upright and yet he cannot do so?
If that is the case sounds like he has a swim bladder problem.
The only way I have dealt with a fish with swim bladder problems is
putting them to sleep before they die.
If you want to ease him into the next world of fishes, get some
tissues, catch him and put him on the tissues, put him in a ziplock bag
fitted for his size and give the bag a kiss and a prayer and place him
in the freezer, he will fall asleep and die within a matter of ten
minutes.
I do not believe there is any kind of medication to treat swim bladder
problems. I wish there was.

Beth
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Todd" <tmoore668@...> wrote:
>
> I was wondering if someone could help me, earlier today my Eibli
Angel
> was doing just fine and when I just checked on the tank he is not
> swimming properly, he seems to not be able to stay upright. I moved
him
> from my 110 and put him in the quarantine tank and was wondering if
> anyone knew of any type of medication I could possibly use to try and
> save him. I do not see any visible parasites or blemishes on him.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22665 From: jett07002 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Carbon use or no carbon use
Hello Pondat, and Callie, too. It's interesting and a little
surprising that you found my discussion with Ray so
interesting.

I have to look for some of that Purigen you speak of, Pondat. I
haven't used it yet. (Never heard of it to be truthful.) As you
probably know, if you followed Ray's and my comments, I'm not big
on the use of carbon, so I have a few jars left to my supply.
Consequently, I wasn't looking for a substitute and haven't run across
Purigen yet.

I also wanted to say, "green water" is not a bad thing for the
fish. They should thrive in it. Especially the fry. It's a good
source of infusoria and other micros that baby fish find delectable.
Now, that's not to say ya never have to feed them!

Here's the catch, though. The fish are in a tank. Not in nature. So
you can't let the stuff get out of hand. If the algae gets too thick
it's gonna smother the fish. And you still, --->the aquarium law
according to JoeT, LOL -----> have to keep making water changes. Not
big ones, but consistent ones. Obviously, when you change water,
you're gonna take some algae with it.

-----> If the fry are very small, another reason for not allowing
"green water" is you won't be able to see the fry and you'll be
sucking them out of the tank, too. There are ways to avoid that, but
I'm not going there right now in this conversation.

I always had a bit of "green water" in my grow out tanks.

Also, lest I forget, the other main reason people didn't like green
water was that they usually had the tank on display. Green water was
not "pretty" or "nice" to look at.

Joe T



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pondat2001" <pondat2001@...> wrote:
>
> I completely agree that carbon is not necessary and that water
> changes are sufficient with proper filters to control the nitrogen
> cycle. I would like to add a twist though. I breed guppies and don't
> always have the time or resources to cull my tanks and change my
> water as I should. This results in overcrowding and the inevitable
> green water. I used to use carbon to give myself more time and avoid
> the negative effects of my neglect. Through a lot of trial and error
> and expence in trying different products I found that Purigen works
> much better and longer than carbon. Purigen is a synthetic water
> purification product consisting of micro porous plastic beads. It is
> expensive but if you factor in the fact that it can be regenerated
> and actually far outlasts carbon it is actually cheaper to use than
> carbon. I have tried brands of carbon that seemed to actually have no
> effect at all. Purigen requires very fine filter bags but I solved
> that by using wedding sachet bags from the crafts or fabric
> department at walmart. They are about $5.oo for a package of 12. My
> water stays pretty much crystal clear for months until the purigen
> turns black. Regenerating it restores it to nearly its original white
> color. None of this is a proper substitute for proper care of your
> fish but it has been a lifesaver for my fish. Another helpul thing I
> discovered by accident and that I cannot prove scientifically is that
> by leaving the covers off my tanks and a fan running in the room
> constantly my fish have survived otherwise intolerable neglect. I
> refill the tanks when they get too low with straight dechlorinated
> water. I normally use 2 tablespoons of salt per ten gallons of water
> for new tanks and for water changes but not for refilling evaporated
> water. Using salt in repalacement water would raise the concentration
> too high. Another good thing to do is to always run two filters in
> every tank. That way when you clean one filter and possibly destroy
> the nitrification bacteria the other undisturbed filter can take up
> the slack until the cleaned one gets recolonized. You can then clean
> the other filter in a few weeks. I hope this can help someone. I
> don't wish to encourage bad practices but you never know what curves
> life may throw your way and it might help to know some solutions if
> you find yourself without enough time to properly care for your fish.
>
> Sorry for the length of this post. I didn't intend to write a novel
> when I started.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > I have to agree with Steve Szabo on this one. I have been
> keeping fish for about 50 years now. We never heard of putting
> carbon in the filters back then. I never lost fish because of it.
> We did PWCs religiously. And I always kept a live plant aquarium.
> Except in breeding tanks and grow out tanks, of course.
> > When the "experts" started touting carbon to "clean" the water, I
> did use it to help clear out any medications, etc. that I may have
> put in the tank. Especially the methylene blue used to help control
> the fungus on a spawn. The next day, I removed the carbon.
> > As I have said on quite a few of my postings, I'm not an
> ichthyologist, I'm not a marine biologist, and I am not into sciences
> to start using fancy language. I am just giving my true life
> experience. You can take it or leave it for what it's worth to you.
> >
> > joet
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Building a website is a piece of cake.
> > Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22666 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog health
The other thing to remember is that frog's skin is very permeable and absorbs any chemicals it is exposed to. This includes the salt which is why it is not a good idea to put salt in the water. Also, be very careful of any chemical treatments you put in the water and make sure you wash your hands good before putting them in the water (you should do this anyway with any aquarium). As for feeding, don't let them have pelleted food such as the shrimp pellets or don't let them eat too much of the fish flake food. These foods can compact in their system and cause them to bloat like a little balloon. It was fatal for my froggy. Frozen bloodworms are a good treat. Research the proper diet for them.To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: cciglan@...: Wed, 23 May 2007 01:16:11 -0400Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] African Dwarf Frog health


















Erica, I think you're right about the salt...
They are easy to care for - I have heard of people
bringing them home only to fund whitish 'fuzzy' stuff
on them, and soon therafter they die. The fuzzy stuff
is fungal growth and they were most probably
contaminated at the store. They are pretty hardy but
clean water is an absolute must. Can you hear them
making those grinding noises at night? Listen
closely, you can hear them chatting!

Christa
--- Erica <ericalaurend@...> wrote:

> I just bought two African Dwarf frogs, but I am a
> little nervous about
> them b/c I bought one three days ago and it died
> after two nights. But,
> I put the first ADF in with my male betta. I mean,
> they got along well,
> but perhaps it was the aquarium salt that killed my
> first frog? The two
> new frogs are in their own 2 1/2 gallon tank now
> with only water
> conditioner in the water (no aquarium salt). Any
> ideas?
>
> Thanks,
> Erica
>
>
>

Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com
















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22667 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Most fresh water snail do not live very well in brackish water.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tammy carnevale
<satin48562000@...> wrote:
>
> i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before i
bought them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails
to control the tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it
could also be the puffers, i have a rather large plecostamus in the
tank and i keep my puffers well fed to leave him alone and i havent
seen eveidence of him being bothered yet weve had them for about 2
weeks
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22668 From: codysmom2b Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: outside of tank cleaner
Hello all-
I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of
goldfish in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the
other, we noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on
the outside of the filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I
consulted a couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was
because of calcium build-up due to well water, and we would be unable
to completely clean it all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever
have this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
Thanks for any advice!
Ashley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22669 From: Jessica Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
There are saltwater snails. I have three mexican turbo snails that
are huge, and are doing the trick. The puffer is no longer in the
equation as it died a few days ago. The hermit crab though eats the
snails. It hasn't bothered the new snails though. I think he's
about to molt. He's been hiding in his cave for a couple days.
Every time he gets like that I find his shedded exoskeleton in the
cave or buried in the sand. GROSS!!! Scared the crap out of my
husband when it furst happened. We didn't know they did that.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> Most fresh water snail do not live very well in brackish water.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tammy carnevale
> <satin48562000@> wrote:
> >
> > i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before
i
> bought them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails
> to control the tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it
> could also be the puffers, i have a rather large plecostamus in
the
> tank and i keep my puffers well fed to leave him alone and i
havent
> seen eveidence of him being bothered yet weve had them for about 2
> weeks
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> > Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22670 From: Keri Kimball Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: ID a photo.
For everyone that gets the Aquarium Fish magazine, issue June 2007. The one talking about puffers. I have a question about a fish in it. The baby fish (fry) on pg 26, top photo. What kinda of fish is it? I got one the other day when I got some feeder fish, and I have no idea what kinda fish it is. Please anyone know what it is? I'm curious because it's almost like a blenny or goby, sitting on it's fins.

Thanks

Keri


Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22671 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner
I get this on my turtle tank a lot because of high evaporation rate. If your aquarium is glass, get one of those scrapers for algae that comes with a metal scraper attachment (or you can use a putty knife or razor blade). It works best if the buildup is wet and use short quick strokes with even pressure. It takes a lot of elbow grease, but if you do it on a regular basis it won't be as difficult in the future. This should clear most of it up. I can usually get my turtle tank looking like new again.To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: ashleynshawn@...: Wed, 23 May 2007 15:24:23 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner


















Hello all-
I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of
goldfish in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the
other, we noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on
the outside of the filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I
consulted a couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was
because of calcium build-up due to well water, and we would be unable
to completely clean it all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever
have this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
Thanks for any advice!
Ashley

















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22672 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner
Hi Ashley,

You can use plain white vinegar to clean the calcium/hard-water buildup.
Just dampen a coarse rag with the vinegar and scrub it off. The vinegar is
acidic and breaks down the buildup. Try not to get any of the vinegar in
your tank water (lower the water level if you need to clean the top of the
glass) and then wipe it with a clean rag with water after. Also do a 25%
PWC afterwards to keep the buffer levels up in case any of the vinegar gets
in your water as it will lower the pH.

Two goldfish in a 55G is a good stocking level although you could possibly
squeeze in a third if they are round-bodied goldfish but you could need an
even larger tank in the near future, as they should grow to 6"-8" body
length but as big around so they still need plenty of water volume per fish
to dilute their waste. If they are long-bodied, you will probably need a
bigger tank as they should grow to 10"-12" body length and up to 24".

On a side note, white vinegar can also be used for hard water buildup on
your sink, faucet, shower head, coffee pot/maker, etc. It's a lot cheaper
and safer than that CLR stuff.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of codysmom2b
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner

Hello all-
I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of goldfish
in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the other, we
noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on the outside of the
filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I consulted a
couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was because of calcium
build-up due to well water, and we would be unable to completely clean it
all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever have
this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
Thanks for any advice!
Ashley






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007
3:50 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007
3:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22673 From: codysmom2b Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
We had more fish in there a while ago, but we lost a lot of them when
someone else added water to the tank to compensate for water loss. We
just never bought any more to add to the tank, so the 2 remaining
goldfish grew bigger than we anticpated. They are only about 4 inches.
We do plan on getting more fish to make the tank a community, like
some comets or other little fish. It looks kind of sad right now with
just 2 fish in our big tank. :-)
Thanks for the advice about cleaning the outside of my tank. I will
give that a try.
Ashley


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ashley,
>
> You can use plain white vinegar to clean the calcium/hard-water buildup.
> Just dampen a coarse rag with the vinegar and scrub it off. The
vinegar is
> acidic and breaks down the buildup. Try not to get any of the
vinegar in
> your tank water (lower the water level if you need to clean the top
of the
> glass) and then wipe it with a clean rag with water after. Also do
a 25%
> PWC afterwards to keep the buffer levels up in case any of the
vinegar gets
> in your water as it will lower the pH.
>
> Two goldfish in a 55G is a good stocking level although you could
possibly
> squeeze in a third if they are round-bodied goldfish but you could
need an
> even larger tank in the near future, as they should grow to 6"-8" body
> length but as big around so they still need plenty of water volume
per fish
> to dilute their waste. If they are long-bodied, you will probably
need a
> bigger tank as they should grow to 10"-12" body length and up to 24".
>
> On a side note, white vinegar can also be used for hard water buildup on
> your sink, faucet, shower head, coffee pot/maker, etc. It's a lot
cheaper
> and safer than that CLR stuff.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of codysmom2b
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:24 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner
>
> Hello all-
> I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
> 2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
> parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of
goldfish
> in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the other, we
> noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on the
outside of the
> filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
> We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I
consulted a
> couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was because of
calcium
> build-up due to well water, and we would be unable to completely
clean it
> all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
> Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever have
> this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
> Thanks for any advice!
> Ashley
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007
> 3:50 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007
> 3:50 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22674 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
Most fish won’t bother pleco’s..especially if they are large. They are well
armored and even fish that like to nip can’t do much to them.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tammy carnevale
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem



i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before i bought
them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails to control the
tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it could also be the puffers,
i have a rather large plecostamus in the tank and i keep my puffers well fed
to leave him alone and i havent seen eveidence of him being bothered yet
weve had them for about 2 weeks

---------------------------------
Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22675 From: johnnydigital30 Date: 5/23/2007
Subject: where can i buy fresh water shrimp and lobsters
I'm looking for a fish store in the Queens, NY area to buy freshwater
shrimp and lobsters. I ordered a giant african filter shrimp and
cherax blue lobster from azgardens.com, but the shipping is kind of
pricey and i would just rather go to the store and pick them out
myself. Any info would be appreciated
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22676 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: ID a photo.
Keri, While there are a number of different species' fry that may be
identifiable, especially when the parents are known or suspected,
many species' fry having little or no obviously distinguishing
characteristics yet at this early age cannot be identified. Those
species that can be identified are generally somewhat larger and more
developed than the "average size" (read: smaller) fry which have not
yet taken on any of their parents' traits of which would make them
better perceived as distinguishable. Examples of these more
developed fry would include those of many species of livebearers
(Swordtails, Mollies, etc.) as well most any Old World mouthbrooding
Cichlid, especially those of the African Rift Lakes.

Smaller, less developed fry of many egglayers just do not yet exhibit
most of their inherited traits at this early stage and need more time
to discern exactly what they are. As the article being referred to
is a general manuscript not pertaining to any one species, its almost
impossible to be able to identify what these fry are. I would not go
so far as to relate them to the photo of grown out species displayed
in the accompanying photo above them, and would venture to say that
they are not a bottom dweller since they are obviously preferring to
swim mid-water. One characteristic noted is the absence of a dorsal
fin, eliminating a fair number of possible species. As this photo
has been credited to Tony Terceira, (note the fine print on the
photo), its fair to say that these are a species of Killiefish since
Tony is primarily known for his involvement with this Family. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> For everyone that gets the Aquarium Fish magazine, issue June 2007.
The one talking about puffers. I have a question about a fish in it.
The baby fish (fry) on pg 26, top photo. What kinda of fish is it? I
got one the other day when I got some feeder fish, and I have no idea
what kinda fish it is. Please anyone know what it is? I'm curious
because it's almost like a blenny or goby, sitting on it's fins.
>
> Thanks
>
> Keri
>
>
> Keri
>
> Lady Fabric Hoarder
>
> WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
> Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762
>
> ---------------------------------
> Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
> Try the Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22677 From: Jessica Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
I have two plecos in my feeder tank, but are there saltwater plecos?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Most fish won't bother pleco's..especially if they are large.
They are well
> armored and even fish that like to nip can't do much to them.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of tammy carnevale
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem
>
>
>
> i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before i
bought
> them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails to
control the
> tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it could also be
the puffers,
> i have a rather large plecostamus in the tank and i keep my
puffers well fed
> to leave him alone and i havent seen eveidence of him being
bothered yet
> weve had them for about 2 weeks
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection.
> Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22678 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: ID a photo.
Sorry, I just finished reading the January issue, so it will be sometime
before I get to the June issue, which is sitting in the magazine stacks
somewhere.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 12:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ID a photo.

For everyone that gets the Aquarium Fish magazine, issue June 2007. The
one talking about puffers. I have a question about a fish in it. The
baby fish (fry) on pg 26, top photo. What kinda of fish is it? I got one
the other day when I got some feeder fish, and I have no idea what kinda
fish it is. Please anyone know what it is? I'm curious because it's
almost like a blenny or goby, sitting on it's fins.

Thanks

Keri


Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22679 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
I have to agree with Lenny. It may not seem like much in your tank, but your goldfish are big waste producers and goldfish grow bigger than most people anticipate. They will grow bigger in to their home. If you add more fish you risk bad water quality and stunting your fish which will affect their health and life spans. Their entire body mass determines the amount of water they need, not just their inches in length.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: ashleynshawn@...: Wed, 23 May 2007 23:42:27 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes




We had more fish in there a while ago, but we lost a lot of them whensomeone else added water to the tank to compensate for water loss. Wejust never bought any more to add to the tank, so the 2 remaininggoldfish grew bigger than we anticpated. They are only about 4 inches.We do plan on getting more fish to make the tank a community, likesome comets or other little fish. It looks kind of sad right now withjust 2 fish in our big tank. :-)Thanks for the advice about cleaning the outside of my tank. I willgive that a try.Ashley--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"<GoldLenny@...> wrote:>> Hi Ashley,> > You can use plain white vinegar to clean the calcium/hard-water buildup.> Just dampen a coarse rag with the vinegar and scrub it off. Thevinegar is> acidic and breaks down the buildup. Try not to get any of thevinegar in> your tank water (lower the water level if you need to clean the topof the> glass) and then wipe it with a clean rag with water after. Also doa 25%> PWC afterwards to keep the buffer levels up in case any of thevinegar gets> in your water as it will lower the pH.> > Two goldfish in a 55G is a good stocking level although you couldpossibly> squeeze in a third if they are round-bodied goldfish but you couldneed an> even larger tank in the near future, as they should grow to 6"-8" body> length but as big around so they still need plenty of water volumeper fish> to dilute their waste. If they are long-bodied, you will probablyneed a> bigger tank as they should grow to 10"-12" body length and up to 24". > > On a side note, white vinegar can also be used for hard water buildup on> your sink, faucet, shower head, coffee pot/maker, etc. It's a lotcheaper> and safer than that CLR stuff.> > Lenny Vasbinder > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> > > -----Original Message-----> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On> Behalf Of codysmom2b> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:24 AM> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner> > Hello all-> I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just> 2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's> parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds ofgoldfish> in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the other, we> noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on theoutside of the> filter and on part of the tank around the filter.> We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. Iconsulted a> couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was because ofcalcium> build-up due to well water, and we would be unable to completelyclean it> all off. Has anyone else had this problem?> Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever have> this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?> Thanks for any advice!> Ashley> > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message.> Checked by AVG Free Edition.> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007> 3:50 PM> > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.> Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007> 3:50 PM>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22680 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
Ashley,

No type of goldfish are "little fish". ALL goldfish grow HUGE.

Like I said in my first reply, two to three round-bodied goldfish are the
most you should keep in a 55G tank and then you may have to get an even
larger tank or be prepared to do more than weekly 25% PWC's and filter
maintenance to keep the water clean and safe.

I only have two fancy goldfish in a 65G tank and I have to do weekly 25%
PWC's to vacuum the gravel enough to keep the tank healthy. I realize it
looks empty but you should add lots of plants to make it look nice, not more
goldfish. They simply get too big when they are given proper sized homes.
When too many are crammed in undersized tanks or overstocked in proper sized
tanks, they get stunted and never grow to their proper size and have all
kinds of health problems as a result of the stunting and stress issues.

Just to give you some body-mass math on goldfish...

A goldfish increases its body mass by eight times for each time it doubles
its length, so a 2" goldfish is equal to eight 1" goldfish. A 4" goldfish
is equal to eight 2" goldfish or 64 1" goldfish. When they reach 6", they
will be equal to over 100 1" goldfish each. When they reach 8", they will
be equal to nearly 500 1" goldfish. That means food and poop since goldfish
should eat at least 1% of their body mass each day. As juveniles (and still
growing), they should be fed up to 2% of their body mass each day.

Here is my blog article, "Goldfish Care Sheet" with supporting references to
the things I am saying above.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/goldfish-care-sheet-fancy-goldfish.htm
l

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of codysmom2b
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 6:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes

We had more fish in there a while ago, but we lost a lot of them when
someone else added water to the tank to compensate for water loss. We just
never bought any more to add to the tank, so the 2 remaining goldfish grew
bigger than we anticipated. They are only about 4 inches.
We do plan on getting more fish to make the tank a community, like some
comets or other little fish. It looks kind of sad right now with just 2 fish
in our big tank. :-) Thanks for the advice about cleaning the outside of my
tank. I will give that a try.
Ashley

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ashley,
>
> You can use plain white vinegar to clean the calcium/hard-water buildup.
> Just dampen a coarse rag with the vinegar and scrub it off. The
vinegar is
> acidic and breaks down the buildup. Try not to get any of the
vinegar in
> your tank water (lower the water level if you need to clean the top
of the
> glass) and then wipe it with a clean rag with water after. Also do
a 25%
> PWC afterwards to keep the buffer levels up in case any of the
vinegar gets
> in your water as it will lower the pH.
>
> Two goldfish in a 55G is a good stocking level although you could
possibly
> squeeze in a third if they are round-bodied goldfish but you could
need an
> even larger tank in the near future, as they should grow to 6"-8" body
> length but as big around so they still need plenty of water volume
per fish
> to dilute their waste. If they are long-bodied, you will probably
need a
> bigger tank as they should grow to 10"-12" body length and up to 24".
>
> On a side note, white vinegar can also be used for hard water buildup
> on your sink, faucet, shower head, coffee pot/maker, etc. It's a lot
cheaper
> and safer than that CLR stuff.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of codysmom2b
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:24 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner
>
> Hello all-
> I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
> 2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
> parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of
goldfish
> in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the other, we
> noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on the
outside of the
> filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
> We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I
consulted a
> couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was because of
calcium
> build-up due to well water, and we would be unable to completely
clean it
> all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
> Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever
> have this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
> Thanks for any advice!
> Ashley
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.4/811 - Release Date: 5/18/2007
3:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22681 From: coryswalter Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Another 55 gal. tank question
I have found a wonderful price on a 40 gal and a 55 gal tank....both
come with the lighted covers and nothing else. I have a question about
the filters.....I have external pump filters on both my 30 gal and my
10 gal tanks. Can I use both of them on my larger tank or do I need to
do something else? Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22682 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
If the tank is empty you can use straight hot vinegar and salt made into a paste to scrub the tank. If you can't take the fish out I would not use vinegar it may change the pH too much. You can still use the salt on an algae scrubber or use a razor blade. It tough to get off but can be done. You can soak filters etc in hot vinegar to remove the limestone scale too. Regular cooking oil and a razor blade will also take it off plastic and does not hurt the fish. You can "shine" black tank plastic with a thin coat of oil as well.
Good Luck!



Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
May 10% discount code is flowers.
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST

Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48516/*http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 hot CTA = Join Yahoo!'s user panel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22683 From: thomaslx Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Remove Backgrounds From Photos For Best Results
Background Removal refers to the removal of the background or the
backdrop of the picture wherein the object/objects are placed. While
removing the background, the entire background or merely parts of the
background we desire can be removed.read more
on....http://www.articlesforall.net/arts/photography/remove-background-from-photos-for-best-results.php
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22684 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Are you moving the fish from the 30 & 10 to one of the new tanks or getting
more fish? Will you be retiring the smaller tanks?

In all likelihood, you will need a larger filter system for the larger
tanks. It all depends on what you plan on having in the tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22685 From: ceriff Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: New Texas Local Web Site
I have started a new web site and forums for Abilene Tx locals to be
able to buy, sell, and trade with each other. If you are from this
area and keep african cichlids, please check out this web site and
share with people you know. Thank you for your time.

http://www.abilenecichlids.com/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22686 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Even if you are going to put the fish in the larger tanks and not use
the smaller tanks I would get filters that will filter double what the
manufactures say for each tank nad also use the existing fisters on
the larger tanks to help with the cycling process. Make sure to use
the same filter medium so that you have the good bacteria on it.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
wrote:
>
> I have found a wonderful price on a 40 gal and a 55 gal tank....both
> come with the lighted covers and nothing else. I have a question
about
> the filters.....I have external pump filters on both my 30 gal and
my
> 10 gal tanks. Can I use both of them on my larger tank or do I need
to
> do something else? Thanks, Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22687 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/24/2007
Subject: Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes
I'm just throwing my 2 cents worth here to help hammer home the point
others are making. YOUR TANK IS FULLY STOCKED NOW! No ifs ands or buts
here. If I assume the 4" measurement is body length, no fins, your fish
still have some growing to do. Another 2-4" worth of growing at a
minimum. (When measuring fish, we normally talk body length, from the
tip of the snout to the caudal peduncle. This is known as SL or Standard
Length. If you measure with the fins, normally just the caudal or tail
fin, it is then known as TL, or Total Length.)

Goldfish and koi are notoriously "dirty" fish in that they produce a lot
of waste and ammonia. Goldfish and koi are large fish, especially koi,
whose size makes them unsuitable for tanks unless they are very young
and small. If you are worried about your tank looking empty and devoid
of life, consider, as another has suggested, planting the tank. This
will take you into another aspect of the hobby, which you may enjoy as
much, maybe more, as your fish. Your fish will be happier for the
additional covering it will give them, and will even help you with the
"trimming" of the plants. Now, mind you , that they may have an entirely
different idea of how their planted tank should look than you have, but
hey, it will keep them active, help feed them, and everyone wins.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of codysmom2b
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 7:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: outside of tank cleaner & fish sizes

We had more fish in there a while ago, but we lost a lot of them when
someone else added water to the tank to compensate for water loss. We
just never bought any more to add to the tank, so the 2 remaining
goldfish grew bigger than we anticpated. They are only about 4 inches.
We do plan on getting more fish to make the tank a community, like
some comets or other little fish. It looks kind of sad right now with
just 2 fish in our big tank. :-)
Thanks for the advice about cleaning the outside of my tank. I will
give that a try.
Ashley


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ashley,
>
> You can use plain white vinegar to clean the calcium/hard-water
buildup.
> Just dampen a coarse rag with the vinegar and scrub it off. The
vinegar is
> acidic and breaks down the buildup. Try not to get any of the
vinegar in
> your tank water (lower the water level if you need to clean the top
of the
> glass) and then wipe it with a clean rag with water after. Also do
a 25%
> PWC afterwards to keep the buffer levels up in case any of the
vinegar gets
> in your water as it will lower the pH.
>
> Two goldfish in a 55G is a good stocking level although you could
possibly
> squeeze in a third if they are round-bodied goldfish but you could
need an
> even larger tank in the near future, as they should grow to 6"-8" body
> length but as big around so they still need plenty of water volume
per fish
> to dilute their waste. If they are long-bodied, you will probably
need a
> bigger tank as they should grow to 10"-12" body length and up to 24".
>
> On a side note, white vinegar can also be used for hard water buildup
on
> your sink, faucet, shower head, coffee pot/maker, etc. It's a lot
cheaper
> and safer than that CLR stuff.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of codysmom2b
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 10:24 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] outside of tank cleaner
>
> Hello all-
> I am in need of some advice. I have a 55 gallon tank that houses just
> 2 goldfish at the moment, and I recently moved it from my boyfriend's
> parents' house to our new house. I have only had different kinds of
goldfish
> in it, along with a pleco. When moving from one house to the other, we
> noticed there was a lot of white crusty stuff built up on the
outside of the
> filter and on part of the tank around the filter.
> We scraped some of it off, but were unable to get it all off. I
consulted a
> couple fish/pet stores in the area and was told it was because of
calcium
> build-up due to well water, and we would be unable to completely
clean it
> all off. Has anyone else had this problem?
> Basically I was told it was a lost cause, and my tank would forever
have
> this white stuff on it. Is there anything I can do about it?
> Thanks for any advice!
> Ashley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22688 From: Cory Walter Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
I was going to combine the two tanks.....mainly getting the 55 gal one because of 3 angel fish I have.....2 gold that are doing quite nicely and 1 black that is getting as big as his tank.....he's in the 10 gal one and I have too many fish in the 30 gal one to put him in at his present size and I'm afraid if I move him to the 30, he'll outgrow that one, too......


----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 7:00:21 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Another 55 gal. tank question


Are you moving the fish from the 30 & 10 to one of the new tanks or getting
more fish? Will you be retiring the smaller tanks?

In all likelihood, you will need a larger filter system for the larger
tanks. It all depends on what you plan on having in the tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





____________________________________________________________________________________Got a little couch potato?
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22689 From: Debbie Swick Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Another 55 gal. tank question
Good Morning, I would put a underground filter in for sure...also put in the media for the bacteria to grow... It has made such a difference in my 30 gal tank... I'm fixing to do the same.. My fish are outgrowning my tank and it is getting a bit crowded for them... Debbie/ca

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22690 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
Hi! I have a related question to filters in larger tanks. I am
setting up a 50g tank & I have two filters I can use, a Fluval 4 plus
& a Magnum 350. My question is how do I know how high to set the
outflow speed? The fish seem to be struggling against the current
when I have the Fluval on anything but the minimum setting. The
Magnum is missing a part so while I wait for it to arrive, I am using
the Fluval. Actually, I like the Fluval, it is so much simpler than
the canister.

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22691 From: ashleynorthup Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: yellow tale damsel question...
Hello All,
I'm new to this group but joined hoping someone could help identify
a health issue with our yellow tailed damsels. We've got a 72 ga.
marine (working on being a reef) tank. We're building it up slowly
because of the expense so as of now we have (had) four yellow tale
damsels, a sandsifter, one yellow tang, a hermit crab, and four or
five turbo snails.
After two or three days of ownership, one of the damsels began to
look sick. He developed what looked like his scales were just rotting
off near his dorsal fin. This eventually spread down his side in a
triangular shape and led to his death. The whole process took about a
week and we tried fresh water dips. About two weeks later, another of
the damsels began the process. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I
would like to avoid losing the other two guys.
We thought it sounded like a dietary thing. Books etc. said to
feed more vit A and C but they won't eat anything we put in (like the
fresh vegetables, or foods rich in those vitamins). But they do eat
healthily until the day they die. They get brine shrimp, bloodworms,
algae tablets, and rich pellets rotated. The ph is about 8.4 and
salinity 1.023 all else is 0. I've got pics I can post of the stuff
on them if need be. Ok, I'm writing a novel so I'll stop here. If
anyone can help, let me know, I'm open to anything! Thanks.

-Ashley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22692 From: Jessica Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
I'm thinking it could be fin rot or something related. I've
attached a link to what I think it may be and how to treat it. Good
luck!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ashleynorthup"
<ashleynorthup@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I'm new to this group but joined hoping someone could help
identify
> a health issue with our yellow tailed damsels. We've got a 72 ga.
> marine (working on being a reef) tank. We're building it up slowly
> because of the expense so as of now we have (had) four yellow tale
> damsels, a sandsifter, one yellow tang, a hermit crab, and four or
> five turbo snails.
> After two or three days of ownership, one of the damsels began to
> look sick. He developed what looked like his scales were just
rotting
> off near his dorsal fin. This eventually spread down his side in a
> triangular shape and led to his death. The whole process took
about a
> week and we tried fresh water dips. About two weeks later,
another of
> the damsels began the process. Does this sound familiar to
anyone? I
> would like to avoid losing the other two guys.
> We thought it sounded like a dietary thing. Books etc. said to
> feed more vit A and C but they won't eat anything we put in (like
the
> fresh vegetables, or foods rich in those vitamins). But they do
eat
> healthily until the day they die. They get brine shrimp,
bloodworms,
> algae tablets, and rich pellets rotated. The ph is about 8.4 and
> salinity 1.023 all else is 0. I've got pics I can post of the
stuff
> on them if need be. Ok, I'm writing a novel so I'll stop here. If
> anyone can help, let me know, I'm open to anything! Thanks.
>
> -Ashley
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22693 From: livehermitcrabs Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Hi there, I think your problem sounds like a bacterial infection (fin
and tail rot) in a marine reef aquarium, this is difficult to treat
because of the sensitivity of the organisms. In the reality of it, you
can use a red slime remover, which is a anti-biotic medication that
will help fight their disease, but this treatment will absolutely
affect your bio-filter. you may just want to let nature take its
course, unfortunately this may be in the best interest of the rest of
the organisms in the tank.

hope this helps





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ashleynorthup"
<ashleynorthup@...> wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I'm new to this group but joined hoping someone could help identify
> a health issue with our yellow tailed damsels. We've got a 72 ga.
> marine (working on being a reef) tank. We're building it up slowly
> because of the expense so as of now we have (had) four yellow tale
> damsels, a sandsifter, one yellow tang, a hermit crab, and four or
> five turbo snails.
> After two or three days of ownership, one of the damsels began to
> look sick. He developed what looked like his scales were just rotting
> off near his dorsal fin. This eventually spread down his side in a
> triangular shape and led to his death. The whole process took about a
> week and we tried fresh water dips. About two weeks later, another of
> the damsels began the process. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I
> would like to avoid losing the other two guys.
> We thought it sounded like a dietary thing. Books etc. said to
> feed more vit A and C but they won't eat anything we put in (like the
> fresh vegetables, or foods rich in those vitamins). But they do eat
> healthily until the day they die. They get brine shrimp, bloodworms,
> algae tablets, and rich pellets rotated. The ph is about 8.4 and
> salinity 1.023 all else is 0. I've got pics I can post of the stuff
> on them if need be. Ok, I'm writing a novel so I'll stop here. If
> anyone can help, let me know, I'm open to anything! Thanks.
>
> -Ashley
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22694 From: livehermitcrabs Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
It is definatly a bacteria infection, try using a medicine that treats
red slime, that will usually work!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22695 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/25/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
There are very few saltwater catfish. For algae control in a marine
environment, they first try not to get it, if that fails, then they use
a whole host of critters to help control the algae.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 8:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem

I have two plecos in my feeder tank, but are there saltwater plecos?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Most fish won't bother pleco's..especially if they are large.
They are well
> armored and even fish that like to nip can't do much to them.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of tammy carnevale
> Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 5:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem
>
>
>
> i have 2 brackish water puffers and did alot of research before i
bought
> them, in all of the pages i read it says puffers eat snails to
control the
> tooth growth so if your snails came up missing it could also be
the puffers,
> i have a rather large plecostamus in the tank and i keep my
puffers well fed
> to leave him alone and i havent seen eveidence of him being
bothered yet
> weve had them for about 2 weeks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22696 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: Another 55 gal. tank question
The use of your present filters in a larger tank would depend on what
filters you are currently using. With the information you have given us,
one cannot make a determination if your current filters would do, or if
you should utilize other filters instead.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 1:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Another 55 gal. tank question

I have found a wonderful price on a 40 gal and a 55 gal tank....both
come with the lighted covers and nothing else. I have a question about
the filters.....I have external pump filters on both my 30 gal and my
10 gal tanks. Can I use both of them on my larger tank or do I need to
do something else? Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22697 From: Blue fish Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Marine animal news
Latest Blog News
-----------------------------------------------

View this email online:
http://www.zookoda.com/go/?474C43445E54424A425A445146445A515F48

-----------------------------------------------

Sent to aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com by: princely7@...
Anna nagar 600040 India

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22698 From: Just ask me Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Coral Broadcast Spawning
View the video at Videos of blue water
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/2007/05/coral-broadcast-spawning.h\
tml> Corals have two types of reproduction " sexual and asexual. It
is the sexual reproduction that results in the formation of a new
genetically different offspring and reproduction, producing clones
within a colony. Coral have two strategies for sexual reproduction-
broadcast and brooding. Brooding species release the male gametes into
the water column. When the gametes come in contact with the surface of a
colony of the same species they are absorbed into the tissues were
fertilization of the female gametes occurs. The fertilized eggs develop
into a planulae larva. Once fully developed the planulae leave the
parent colony and become planktonic before eventually settling on a
suitable substrate and growing, forming a new genetically distinct
colony. In contrast, broadcast spawning corals, as shown in this video,
release both male and female gametes into the water at the same time.
Only viable for a couple of hours, the density and timing of gametes
released is critical to maximize the probability of successful
fertilization in the water (Oliver & Babcock 1992). Positively buoyant,
these gametes float to the surface and can form slicks on the surface of
the water. These slicks can be seen from low flying aircraft. Once
fertilization has occurred, the planulae may remain planktonic for up to
thirty days. Mass spawning of different species can occur during the
same day. A timing divergence of a couple hours however, may occur and
is vital for reproduction isolation (Knowlton et al. 1997). In the case
of the Montastraea species complex, differences in gamete release times
appears responsible for the speciation between closely related
reproductive sibling species Montastraea annularis, Montastraea franksi,
and Montastraea faveolata (Levitan et al. 2004). This video sequence
shows the release of gametes from a broadcast spawning event. View the
videos at Videos of blue waters

<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/2007/05/coral-broadcast-spawning.h\
tml>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22699 From: Just ask me Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Indonesian fisherman nets ancient fish
An Indonesian fisherman has caught a coelacanth, an ancient fish once
thought to have become extinct at the time of the dinosaurs, a fishery
expert said on Monday।
Yustinus Lahama and his son caught the fish on Saturday in the sea off
North Sulawesi province and kept it at their house for an hour, said
Grevo Gerung, a professor at the fisheries faculty at the Sam Ratulangi
University.
After being told by neighbours it was a rare fish he took it back to the
sea and kept it in a quarantine pool for about 17 hours before it died.
"If kept outside their habitat (60 metres or 200 ft below the sea), the
fish can only live for two hours. But this fish lived for about 17
hours," Gerung told Reuters.
"We will look into why it had lived that long," he said.
The fish was 131 centimetres (about four feet) long and weighed 51 kg
(112 lb), Gerung said.
In 1998, fishermen a caught another coelacanth in a deep-water shark net
off northern Sulawesi.
That catch came 60 years after a member of the species was rediscovered
on the east coast of South Africa.
Coelacanths are known from the fossil records dating back more than 360
million years, according to the Australian Museum Fish Web site.
Before 1938 they were believed to have become extinct approximately 80
million years ago, when they disappeared from the fossil record, it
said.
Coelacanths are the only living animals to have a fully functional
intercranial joint, which is a division separating the ear and brain
from the nasal organs and eye.Read more in marine animal news
<http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22700 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: wanted your unwanted snails
i am willing to take your unwanted snails for my puffers

it keeps teeth filed down to eat one every few weeks so if you
have some to get rid of then ill take them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22701 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Do not use Erythromycin in your main stream aquarium, if you use it as a medication for bacterial, it will require 250 mg per 10 gallons for 5 days. This will kill your bacteria bed and could kill other things in your tank. The red slime medication is erythromycin in a low dose (250 mg for 50 gallons), and does interupt the bacteria bed some what, but not wipe it out like a full dose will. I would use No sick fish medication.
(www.nosickfish.com) I have had great success with most of their meds curing the problem in saltwater reefs, with no ill effects on the bacteria bed,corals, other inverts like shrimp, or fish. Works very good on Bacteria infections. Hope this helps !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: ashleynorthup
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 9:26 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] yellow tale damsel question...


Hello All,
I'm new to this group but joined hoping someone could help identify
a health issue with our yellow tailed damsels. We've got a 72 ga.
marine (working on being a reef) tank. We're building it up slowly
because of the expense so as of now we have (had) four yellow tale
damsels, a sandsifter, one yellow tang, a hermit crab, and four or
five turbo snails.
After two or three days of ownership, one of the damsels began to
look sick. He developed what looked like his scales were just rotting
off near his dorsal fin. This eventually spread down his side in a
triangular shape and led to his death. The whole process took about a
week and we tried fresh water dips. About two weeks later, another of
the damsels began the process. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I
would like to avoid losing the other two guys.
We thought it sounded like a dietary thing. Books etc. said to
feed more vit A and C but they won't eat anything we put in (like the
fresh vegetables, or foods rich in those vitamins). But they do eat
healthily until the day they die. They get brine shrimp, bloodworms,
algae tablets, and rich pellets rotated. The ph is about 8.4 and
salinity 1.023 all else is 0. I've got pics I can post of the stuff
on them if need be. Ok, I'm writing a novel so I'll stop here. If
anyone can help, let me know, I'm open to anything! Thanks.

-Ashley






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/815 - Release Date: 5/22/2007 3:49 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22702 From: Memrie Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: wanted your unwanted snails
Where are you at?--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "satin48562000"
<satin48562000@...> wrote:
>
> i am willing to take your unwanted snails for my puffers
>
> it keeps teeth filed down to eat one every few weeks so if
you
> have some to get rid of then ill take them
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22704 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Hello, everyone.
My husband and I just set up our saltwater aquarium a few days ago. We
are total beginners, but committed to doing this the right way. It is a
90 gallon glass aquarium. We are patiently waiting for the tank to
cycle. Oh yeah...the fish store never told us about the 6 week wait!
We have several pieces of live rock in the tank. Anyway, I've been
doing a lot of reading and just learned of the benefits of having
mangrove plants. Is now the time to introduce the mangrove plants? Any
advice on buying the plants? Any advice is welcome.

Thanks
Lynda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22705 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Used Tank
It's been almost a month since I set up five small feeder goldfish in
a tank that had been used by mammals.
I cleaned the tank with Zud scrubbing powder and rinsed it very well.
The filter had been used in a previous tank and I think had plenty of
good bacteria in it.
All five fish are happy and healthy.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22706 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: hermit crabs
Just wanting to know if anybody in here knows if its hard to take care
of hermit crabs and is it expensive?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22707 From: Andrew Date: 5/26/2007
Subject: Re: hermit crabs
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> Just wanting to know if anybody in here knows if its hard to take care
> of hermit crabs and is it expensive?
>
Caring for hermit crabs is easy and a great introduction to caring for
animals in general. I would say the initial investment is rather small
compared to that of regular pets. You do need certain items to get you
started. Once you have these, you can dd the hermit crab, and with the
right advice, you can get started with having a great pet to care for
and learn more about the responsibility of keeping live critters.
Please email me for more information
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22708 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
I was reading the post today and wanted to thank Sissy Sathre for her
reply and tell us about www.nosickfish.com, I went to take a look and
found it very helpful. I believe it will be a huge resource in the
future care sick fish. I read earlier that someone was waiting 6 weeks
to cycle their new tank. My 100gal tank did not take that Long. I have
used in the past a product from my LFS Biozyme in helps introduce
living Nitrifying bacteria and enzymes, in turn speeds the cycle of
the tank. Now here a idea someone gave me a LFS, that made sense
but never tried. So feed back on this would be helpful and greatly
appreicated. To get a large uncooked shrimp form the fish market and
place it into the tank and it would speed up the cycle. I have never
done this. And don't recommend it because I am not sure if it is
acceptable for setting up a tank.






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> Do not use Erythromycin in your main stream aquarium, if you use it
as a medication for bacterial, it will require 250 mg per 10 gallons
for 5 days. This will kill your bacteria bed and could kill other
things in your tank. The red slime medication is erythromycin in a low
dose (250 mg for 50 gallons), and does interupt the bacteria bed some
what, but not wipe it out like a full dose will. I would use No sick
fish medication.
> (www.nosickfish.com) I have had great success with most of their
meds curing the problem in saltwater reefs, with no ill effects on the
bacteria bed,corals, other inverts like shrimp, or fish. Works very
good on Bacteria infections. Hope this helps !
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ashleynorthup
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 9:26 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] yellow tale damsel question...
>
>
> Hello All,
> I'm new to this group but joined hoping someone could help identify
> a health issue with our yellow tailed damsels. We've got a 72 ga.
> marine (working on being a reef) tank. We're building it up slowly
> because of the expense so as of now we have (had) four yellow tale
> damsels, a sandsifter, one yellow tang, a hermit crab, and four or
> five turbo snails.
> After two or three days of ownership, one of the damsels began to
> look sick. He developed what looked like his scales were just rotting
> off near his dorsal fin. This eventually spread down his side in a
> triangular shape and led to his death. The whole process took about a
> week and we tried fresh water dips. About two weeks later, another of
> the damsels began the process. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I
> would like to avoid losing the other two guys.
> We thought it sounded like a dietary thing. Books etc. said to
> feed more vit A and C but they won't eat anything we put in (like the
> fresh vegetables, or foods rich in those vitamins). But they do eat
> healthily until the day they die. They get brine shrimp, bloodworms,
> algae tablets, and rich pellets rotated. The ph is about 8.4 and
> salinity 1.023 all else is 0. I've got pics I can post of the stuff
> on them if need be. Ok, I'm writing a novel so I'll stop here. If
> anyone can help, let me know, I'm open to anything! Thanks.
>
> -Ashley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/815 - Release Date:
5/22/2007 3:49 PM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22709 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: yellow tale damsel question...
Another way to "jump start" yur cycle is to take filter cartridges
(or just the whole filters and put them in your new tank. The
bacteria is in the filter cartridges and will start acting right
away. I have used this method many time with good results. Some
times I will just clean (rinse) the old filter cartridges in the new
tank. Of corse do not do this if any fish are sick n the existing
tank.




























--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dylan_james_75"
<dylan_james_75@...> wrote:
>
> I was reading the post today and wanted to thank Sissy Sathre for
her
> reply and tell us about www.nosickfish.com, I went to take a look
and
> found it very helpful. I believe it will be a huge resource in the
> future care sick fish. I read earlier that someone was waiting 6
weeks
> to cycle their new tank. My 100gal tank did not take that Long. I
have
> used in the past a product from my LFS Biozyme in helps introduce
> living Nitrifying bacteria and enzymes, in turn speeds the cycle of
> the tank. Now here a idea someone gave me a LFS, that made
sense
> but never tried. So feed back on this would be helpful and greatly
> appreicated. To get a large uncooked shrimp form the fish market
and
> place it into the tank and it would speed up the cycle. I have
never
> done this. And don't recommend it because I am not sure if it is
> acceptable for setting up a tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22710 From: tammy carnevale Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: unwanted snails
i am in burton close to south flint

---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22711 From: satin48562000 Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: wanted your unwanted snails
i am in burton

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "satin48562000" <satin48562000@...>
wrote:
>
> i am willing to take your unwanted snails for my puffers
>
> it keeps teeth filed down to eat one every few weeks so if
you
> have some to get rid of then ill take them
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22712 From: Sue Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: algae
we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater
green. We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish
to the tank again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned
totally green again. Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial
water changes of about 50% and still no luck.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22713 From: Memrie Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
-How much light are you getting?

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sue" <seagap52@...> wrote:
>
> we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater
> green. We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish
> to the tank again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned
> totally green again. Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial
> water changes of about 50% and still no luck.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22714 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Check the position of the tank in your house and how much sunlight it is getting. Also, algae is usally the result of too much nutrients in the water, such as overfeeding or too much waste. How much do you feed your fish, how many fish and in what size tank will also be helpful information as well as your water parameters will give more info so people can help you take action against your pea soup syndrome.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: mblue833@...: Mon, 28 May 2007 01:58:18 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: algae




-How much light are you getting?-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sue" <seagap52@...> wrote:>> we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater > green. We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish > to the tank again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned > totally green again. Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial > water changes of about 50% and still no luck.>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22715 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/27/2007
Subject: Re: algae
How long have you been keeping fish? Do you understand "The Nitrogen
Cycle"?

Tell us more about your tank, fish, stocking and filtration.

When you say you "started the tank over again", does that mean you broke
down and cleaned everything? If so, you are now in the middle of cycling
all over again. You need to test your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH
and post your numbers so we can see what is going on. It's not good to
cycle a tank with fish as the high nitrogen levels will harm the fish and
will also cause algae blooms if the tank is getting too much light.

If you already know about this, forgive the reply but you never gave much
info in your initial post.

In the mean time, cut back your feedings, vacuum your gravel with each 25%
PWC (partial water change) and do daily 25% PWC's until things are settled
down with algae growth.

I don't like doing 50% PWC's as it can change the water chemistry too much
too fast and cause shock issues to the fish. If you feel you need to change
50% a week, do it twice weekly with 25% each time. It will be better for
your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sue
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 7:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] algae

we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater green.
We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish to the tank
again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned totally green again.
Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial water changes of about 50% and
still no luck.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007
10:47 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22716 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank with mollys,
playts and a guppy?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22717 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
From Mongabay's page on livebearers... (Read over all of the info on this
page for more information about water parameters, etc.)
http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm

For Molly's -
A 0.5-3% addition of salt is suggested by some, although unnecessary. Mix
4-23 TSP. (LEVEL teaspoon) of salt for every 10 gallons.

For Guppy's -
A 0.5 to 2% addition of salt is recommended. This can be accomplished by
adding 4-15 TSP. of salt to every 10 gallons of water.

For Platy's -
No recommendation as to salt levels but they do like harder water so the
salt won't hurt them.

In simple terms, 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will make the tank 0.1% so
you could start with that and see how they do. Then if you wanted, you
could up it to 0.2% by adding another 1 teaspoon per gallon for a total of 2
teaspoons per gallon.

When you do PWC's, top off the tank first so it is full (in case water
evaporated), then do your PWC and add the appropriate amount of salt back
into the water that you are replacing. If you change out 25% (2.5G), then
you would add 2.5 LEVEL teaspoons of salt if you have a 0.1% salt level. If
you have a 0.2% salt level, you would add 5 LEVEL teaspoons of salt to 2.5G
of water. If you change more or less water, add the appropriate amount of
salt and mix it in the water before adding it to your tank. You don't want
the salinity level jumping around too much.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 1:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater
tank

how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank with mollys, playts
and a guppy?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/821 - Release Date: 5/27/2007
3:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22718 From: T. Craig Morton Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more Tetras
would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my tank.

Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small tank
community?

thanks

T.C. Morton
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22719 From: Wendie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3 rosy barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and they only show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6 barbs to keep them bickering among themselves and not annoying other tankmates.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: T. Craig Morton
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?


I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more Tetras
would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my tank.

Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small tank
community?

thanks

T.C. Morton





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22720 From: Laurie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs? Wendie
What size tank do you have? I know that T.C. had mentioned that they
had a 10 gallon tank.... So that's why I am cusious... I have my
barbs in a 30 gallon.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3
rosy barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and
they only show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6
barbs to keep them bickering among themselves and not annoying other
tankmates.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: T. Craig Morton
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?
>
>
> I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
> couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more
Tetras
> would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my
tank.
>
> Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small
tank
> community?
>
> thanks
>
> T.C. Morton
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22721 From: Donna Ransome Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
What about an Otocinclus for the algae eater?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?



You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3 rosy
barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and they only
show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6 barbs to keep them
bickering among themselves and not annoying other tankmates.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: T. Craig Morton
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?

I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more Tetras
would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my tank.

Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small tank
community?

thanks

T.C. Morton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22722 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
I have a 10G stocking list and suggestions on my blog.


http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of T. Craig Morton
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 3:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?

I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a couple of
Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more Tetras would the Barbs
be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my tank.

Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small tank
community?

thanks

T.C. Morton

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/821 - Release Date: 5/27/2007
3:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22723 From: Wendie Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs? Wendie
It's a 55

Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Laurie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 5:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs? Wendie


What size tank do you have? I know that T.C. had mentioned that they
had a 10 gallon tank.... So that's why I am cusious... I have my
barbs in a 30 gallon.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote:
>
> You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3
rosy barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and
they only show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6
barbs to keep them bickering among themselves and not annoying other
tankmates.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: T. Craig Morton
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?
>
>
> I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
> couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more
Tetras
> would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my
tank.
>
> Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small
tank
> community?
>
> thanks
>
> T.C. Morton
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22724 From: quietari Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
In my planted tank i have had a hair algae problem. The two most
affected plants i have removed from the tank, however i have noticed
that some leaves of the plants remaining are still affected. I have
searched the internet (and this thread) about ways to combat it, and
have come across conflicting reports.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Are there any fish or shrimp that
will feast on it? Is reducing the light (its on a timer) an effective
solution?

I am against chemical treatment of the water for algae, and would
rather add fish\plants to regulate the problem.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22725 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
I was given some hair algae that was green by a very generous member of
this list. My goldfish ate every speck of it.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22726 From: Bart Williams Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Reef Tank -MOVING SOON- HELP!!!
I have been trying without success in getting someone to buy my Reef
tank system.
I am selling it for a huge huge loss. I have nearly something around 9
,000 dollars in this hobby (wife would say more).
We are in the process of moving and I must break down the system.
You can see the tank here www.theblindoldman.com
<http://www.theblindoldman.com>

Call 388-2924 to make an appointment to see

I am selling the whole thing for 1000 dollars!! that wouldnt even buy
the light system much less the drop in chiller.

Dont want the whole system? Then I can sell you the 200 lbs of live
rock, 150 lbs est of live sand, corals, and other creatures for 500.00
that's less than $1.00 LB
You will never find a better deal than that anywhere especially
fairbanks. Live rock sales for anywhere from 8 to 10 dollars a pound.
Not too mention the cost of corals from 25 to 85 dollars each.



In less than 2 months give or take I will have too make the choice I
didnt want too make and that is too let it all die. Dont make me do it
please help me find someone in fairbanks in need or wishes to have a
reef tank or needs more rock and creatures for there existing tank.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22727 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: The definitive word on hair algae (black)
I do not suggest adding fish or other species unless the tanks biology can
handle it. What is in your tank now and what size tank?

Cherry shrimp and amano shrimp are good algae eaters that don't add much to
the bioload but they could also become prey to your other fish so let us
know. Other than Oto's, most other algae eating fish grow to at least 6" or
much larger so your tank size is important.

Do a series of 25% PWC's to get your water in the best shape possible. Then
you can also try spot treating the hair algae with Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2)
in doses up to 1 oz. per 10G. Fill a syringe or turkey baster and squirt it
directly onto the algae. Make sure your fish are away from the HP when you
dose it. It quickly becomes inert in water as it is basically water with an
extra Oxygen molecule but the oxidizing effect that lasts just momentarily
is often enough to break down the cell wall of the single celled algae. You
can repeat this as needed but do a 25% PWC between doses to be on the safe
side, although everything I've read says it's not needed. I always err on
the side of caution. HP is also used to oxygenate ponds with low O2 levels
as an emergency measure so it's pretty safe as long as you don't squirt it
right on the fish or into your filter intake.

I've used HP in my 10G tank that was empty and came down with a case of
filamentous algae (hair algae). It worked. Now my cherry shrimp live in
that tank and no problems since.

You can read more about this on TheKrib's website -
http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/hydrogen-peroxide.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of quietari
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 6:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] The definitive word on hair algae (black)

In my planted tank i have had a hair algae problem. The two most affected
plants i have removed from the tank, however i have noticed that some leaves
of the plants remaining are still affected. I have searched the internet
(and this thread) about ways to combat it, and have come across conflicting
reports.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Are there any fish or shrimp that will
feast on it? Is reducing the light (its on a timer) an effective solution?

I am against chemical treatment of the water for algae, and would rather add
fish\plants to regulate the problem.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/821 - Release Date: 5/27/2007
3:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22728 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
When guppys have babies does red stuff come out of their butt and do
the baby guppys know to stay in the guppy grass.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22729 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank
Thanks Lenny


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> From Mongabay's page on livebearers... (Read over all of the info
on this
> page for more information about water parameters, etc.)
> http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm
>
> For Molly's -
> A 0.5-3% addition of salt is suggested by some, although
unnecessary. Mix
> 4-23 TSP. (LEVEL teaspoon) of salt for every 10 gallons.
>
> For Guppy's -
> A 0.5 to 2% addition of salt is recommended. This can be
accomplished by
> adding 4-15 TSP. of salt to every 10 gallons of water.
>
> For Platy's -
> No recommendation as to salt levels but they do like harder water
so the
> salt won't hurt them.
>
> In simple terms, 1 teaspoon of salt per gallon will make the tank
0.1% so
> you could start with that and see how they do. Then if you wanted,
you
> could up it to 0.2% by adding another 1 teaspoon per gallon for a
total of 2
> teaspoons per gallon.
>
> When you do PWC's, top off the tank first so it is full (in case
water
> evaporated), then do your PWC and add the appropriate amount of
salt back
> into the water that you are replacing. If you change out 25%
(2.5G), then
> you would add 2.5 LEVEL teaspoons of salt if you have a 0.1% salt
level. If
> you have a 0.2% salt level, you would add 5 LEVEL teaspoons of salt
to 2.5G
> of water. If you change more or less water, add the appropriate
amount of
> salt and mix it in the water before adding it to your tank. You
don't want
> the salinity level jumping around too much.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 1:55 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon
freshwater
> tank
>
> how much salt do you put in a 10 gallon freshwater tank with
mollys, playts
> and a guppy?
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/821 - Release Date:
5/27/2007
> 3:05 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22730 From: EAR Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
The babies will flee the hungry mouth of the adult guppy. To aid the fry,I float a long green plastic plant to allow them safe haven aobve and below.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22731 From: Francina Martinez Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
No red stuff doesn't come out of the vent (butt as you called it). You will see a little thing sticking out of the vent and the guppy mom staying in one place and shaking a lot. The fry pop out quite quickly and swim away darting the hungry mouths of hungry tankmates. They instinctly know to head for cover.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: txcavu@...: Mon, 28 May 2007 19:45:01 -0700Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES




The babies will flee the hungry mouth of the adult guppy. To aid the fry,I float a long green plastic plant to allow them safe haven aobve and below.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22732 From: Eric Roberts Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
Not sure about the red stuff…but if they are healthy, I would say yes. I
haven’t really paid that much attention to my feeder guppies. For the most
part they tend to stick to safe places, but since the young ones don’t last
long amongst my other fish (especially angels) they apparently are not that
good at hiding in the weeds…



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 9:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES



When guppys have babies does red stuff come out of their butt and do
the baby guppys know to stay in the guppy grass.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22733 From: Bart Williams Date: 5/28/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Is this going to be a fish only tank or do you plan too introduce
corals?
If it's fish only there is really no need to use mangroves since fish
are capable of withstanding higher concentration of nitrates in the
water.
If you have strong enough lighting and are planning to go with corals
then mangroves in a refugium with lighting would assist in reducing
nitrate levels.
Other methods to use include partial water changes, deep sand beds,
other saltwater plants.
Just a note do not put plants in the main tank unless you wish too have
your corraline algea in competition with your plants (the corraline
algea will lose the battle).
purchased plants sometimes come with nuisance algeas such as green hair
algea.
If this gets in your tank you will have alot of work trying to rid your
tank of it.
Keep an eye out on your phosphates once you introduce plants in the
system just in case the green algea comes with it.
Phosphates can be reduced with chemical media such as phos guard for
example.





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, everyone.
> My husband and I just set up our saltwater aquarium a few days ago.
We
> are total beginners, but committed to doing this the right way. It is
a
> 90 gallon glass aquarium. We are patiently waiting for the tank to
> cycle. Oh yeah...the fish store never told us about the 6 week wait!
> We have several pieces of live rock in the tank. Anyway, I've been
> doing a lot of reading and just learned of the benefits of having
> mangrove plants. Is now the time to introduce the mangrove plants?
Any
> advice on buying the plants? Any advice is welcome.
>
> Thanks
> Lynda
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22734 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Bart,
Thank you for the information. It will be a fish only tank for now. I
think I'd better see if I can keep fish alive before I pour more money
into this venture :). Originally, I was going to buy my husband a 30
gallon fresh water tank for our anniversary and I made the mistake of
taking him shopping with me. We came home with the 90 gallon and he
decided to make it a saltwater tank. The saltwater fish are much more
colorful than freshwater fish, but I had always heard that saltwater
fish are hard to keep alive. Now after more reading, it seems if you
just test the water often and stay on top of things, it isn't that
difficult. We did our first water test and all the levels look good so
far.

Thanks again
Lynda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22735 From: Jessica Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: hermit crabs
I don't know anything about the ones that you have in the cages. I
have a large strawberry hermit crab that lives in my saltwater tank.
I feed him some krill a couple times a day and that's it. They out
grow their shells, so you have to eventualy get them a bigger shell.
They also molt/shed their exoskeleton occationally. Mine burries his
in the sand, so we know to get it out when there's a lump in the
tank. Real easy to care for but if you're looking for one for your
tank, think about it first. They eat anything with a shell. I've
lost snails and a sea urchin to mine. They also make a mess in a tank
and like to rearrange the rock.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> Just wanting to know if anybody in here knows if its hard to take
care
> of hermit crabs and is it expensive?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22736 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Book
Was wondering if anyone here has "The Successful Reef Aquarium" by Daniel
Knop? Sounds like an interesting book, but admittedly was caught off guard
by the vast price difference when I looked the book up online (19.95 to
106.99)



Thanks in advance for any opinions on this one before I lay out the moola?



-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22737 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
I hope they are good from hiding from mollys. platys and a rainbow
shark. My daughter has put a baby thing in there now to put them in.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Not sure about the red stuff…but if they are healthy, I would say
yes. I
> haven't really paid that much attention to my feeder guppies. For
the most
> part they tend to stick to safe places, but since the young ones
don't last
> long amongst my other fish (especially angels) they apparently are
not that
> good at hiding in the weeds…
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 9:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] WHEN GUPPYS HAVE BABIES
>
>
>
> When guppys have babies does red stuff come out of their butt and
do
> the baby guppys know to stay in the guppy grass.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22738 From: Steve Szabo Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Re: Book
It appears that the book is still fairly readily available new at
several of the sites I visited. They had prices from about $20 to $25.
Availability of books at your LFS (speaking generically here) is usually
spotty at best, and a lot depends on the distributors that they use. It
would not hurt to ask yours to order it for you. Should that fail, check
your local Barnes and Noble or your local Borders to see if it really
still is in print and if they can get it for you if it is. Failing that,
you will have to go used.

For used books, check out http://www.seahorses.com and
http://www.finleyaquaticbooks.com Jim at Searses has a good listing of
books, while Lee at Finley Aquatic Books has a minimalist listing of
books that he has published, but he does have a huge collection of books
for sale. Both have e-mail links where you can send them your request to
see if they have it, but not listed.

Also there is http://www.mindspring.com/~aquaristics/aquarian.subjects/,
but I think it may be unlikely that Neil would be carrying this book.

There is another fellow I know and trust, but he does not have a web
site for you to check out. If all else fails, let me know off list, and
I'll get you contact info.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2007 4:38 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Book

Was wondering if anyone here has "The Successful Reef Aquarium" by
Daniel
Knop? Sounds like an interesting book, but admittedly was caught off
guard
by the vast price difference when I looked the book up online (19.95 to
106.99)



Thanks in advance for any opinions on this one before I lay out the
moola?



-Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22739 From: Just ask me Date: 5/29/2007
Subject: Cannibalism in a Fish species allow individual to specialize
Fishing for Arctic char may end up catching distinctly different-looking
individuals although they were all caught in the same lake।
Similarly, whitefish, threespine stickleback, and some sunfishes also
display quite discrete groups living in the same lakes but utilizing
different food resources in order to survive.
The phenomenon is called resource polymorphism and has been observed and
documented as early as in the 18th century, but has continued to receive
a lot of scientific interest since it gives us a chance to study ongoing
evolution। However, not all species display resource polymorphism,
and naturally, in order to gain deeper understanding of evolutionary
facilitators, the question arises: Why do some species display resource
polymorphism, whereas other don't?Marine animal news
<http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22740 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Dear Steve,

It seems the book you inquired about, "The Successful Reef
Aquarium" by Daniel Knop? is one of the few I have not bought as yet.
LOL I purchased most of mine from Amazon or Barnes & Noble. They
both have alternate sellers who have essentially new books for lower
prices. I have never been disappointed in the quality of the books I
have purchased. If you would like a list of my newer ones, just say
the word, I really like almost all of them.

Judy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22741 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Lol From the synopsis I've read, it covers the Berlin method, which is the
route I want to go do to expense and simplicity and was looking for opinions
on the book. Like I mentioned, it caught me off guard to see it going as
high as it was with the book being available at other locations for as low
as $19.99, but since its not available locally, wanted opinions before I
ordered it (but not from the two amazon sellers) lol



Fyi - this is the place that had it the cheapest:
http://www.petstore.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=BKSRA



Saw a small ad for it in the Auguest Issue of "Freshwater And Marine
Magazine" which sparked the question.





_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Judith Downing
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 11:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Book



Dear Steve,

It seems the book you inquired about, "The Successful Reef
Aquarium" by Daniel Knop? is one of the few I have not bought as yet.
LOL I purchased most of mine from Amazon or Barnes & Noble. They
both have alternate sellers who have essentially new books for lower
prices. I have never been disappointed in the quality of the books I
have purchased. If you would like a list of my newer ones, just say
the word, I really like almost all of them.

Judy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22742 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: Book
Dragon Hunter,

I'm sure you've done this already but if you Google "Berlin Method" in
quotes, you'll find around 9,000 pages of info on it. I understand if you
still want the book but you can certainly learn all about the berlin method
while waiting on the book.

In the first 50 hits, I saw many reputable websites with info on this
method. I'm sure they're all summaries of the book but you may find some
practical info. I saw this site http://www.berlinmethod.com/hardware.html
which is one users details of his/her system.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 1:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Book

Lol From the synopsis I've read, it covers the Berlin method, which is the
route I want to go do to expense and simplicity and was looking for opinions
on the book. Like I mentioned, it caught me off guard to see it going as
high as it was with the book being available at other locations for as low
as $19.99, but since its not available locally, wanted opinions before I
ordered it (but not from the two amazon sellers) lol

Fyi - this is the place that had it the cheapest:
http://www.petstore.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=BKSRA
<http://www.petstore.com/ps_viewitem.aspx?idproduct=BKSRA>

Saw a small ad for it in the Auguest Issue of "Freshwater And Marine
Magazine" which sparked the question.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Judith Downing
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 11:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Book

Dear Steve,

It seems the book you inquired about, "The Successful Reef Aquarium" by
Daniel Knop? is one of the few I have not bought as yet.
LOL I purchased most of mine from Amazon or Barnes & Noble. They both have
alternate sellers who have essentially new books for lower prices. I have
never been disappointed in the quality of the books I have purchased. If you
would like a list of my newer ones, just say the word, I really like almost
all of them.

Judy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.3/824 - Release Date: 5/29/2007
1:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22743 From: ashish63bose Date: 5/30/2007
Subject: Re: stains on aquarium
Although too late to reply & probably the problem rectified,
neverthless, the trickle is due to condensation of the evaporated
water and the deposit may be from the top of of your tank. Try to
provide some space for the moisture to escape and also try putting a
white (will brighten the interior!) coating (synthetic emulsion)on the
inner surface of the top.This may help you. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22744 From: Judith Downing Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: Book
FYI,

The July issue of "Tropical Fish Hobbyist" has a multiple page Ad
showing many fish-related books published by TFH. It gives the retail
prices so it is a good reference point for finding bargains.

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22745 From: Barb Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: corydora eggs
I am fairly new to keeping fish. I have a 25 gallon tank with 3
Harlequin Rasboras, 5 Red Eyed Tetras and 2 Bronze Corydora Catfish.
The tank was fishless cycled first and I have had the fish for about 2
months now. All is well and today I found some eggs stuck to the glass -
I think they must be Cory eggs and I wonder does anyone have advice
about what to do? I presume if I do nothing the other fish will eat
them or the fry, should they hatch. I just have plastic plants in the
tank so far, will they be enough for the babies to hide in?

Thanks in advance,
Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22746 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Here's a good article with lots of pics. Scroll down about 1/2 way to find
pics of eggs. When they hatch, they are very vulnerable so it's best to
remove the eggs to another tank if you want to save them.
http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Catfish,%20Corydoras.htm

Here's another article I have in my favorites.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Naus_Breeding_Corydoras.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barb
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 4:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] corydora eggs

I am fairly new to keeping fish. I have a 25 gallon tank with 3 Harlequin
Rasboras, 5 Red Eyed Tetras and 2 Bronze Corydora Catfish.
The tank was fishless cycled first and I have had the fish for about 2
months now. All is well and today I found some eggs stuck to the glass - I
think they must be Cory eggs and I wonder does anyone have advice about what
to do? I presume if I do nothing the other fish will eat them or the fry,
should they hatch. I just have plastic plants in the tank so far, will they
be enough for the babies to hide in?

Thanks in advance,
Barb


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.4/825 - Release Date: 5/30/2007
3:03 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22747 From: Betty Lou Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
I have a 10 gal tank which I have had for about a year now, and just
got a 38 gal set up as a birthday gift!! I have been cycling it for
a couple of weeks and added a few expendable "feeder" guppies to it
tonight to help things along a little. I mainly am interested in
guppies & platies, I have an albino cory who will stay in the 10 gal,
and definatly want to get more of them! I love "him"!!

I have 5 little 1 to 2 month old platy babies which I have not been
able to sex yet - but they will be going into the new tank. Their
mother seems to have hemoroids, and she keeps her tail folded up not
fanned out like ususal - not sure exactly what is wrong with her, but
she is in isolation since Moe the daddy just won't leave her alone -
what medication does she need? She is the lone surviving female, he
bullied the others to death I think. Since he is so mean and seems
to pick a favorite female, and batters the rest, I'm going to let him
be a celibate little bachelor in the 10 gal tank as well.

I have live plants in the 10 gal, which yielded MANY little snails.
I don't mind them, in fact some are pretty, but they are taking over
the 10 gal tank!! I've read to put a piece of lettuce in a salt
shaker to draw them in, but then what do you do, flush them? I
thought about putting them in my water garden in the hopes the
horrible snakes would eat them (but don't want to encourage more of
the snakes either), and what if they won't then they take over my
yard, and I don't want to be stepping on them! I thought about
buying loaches for the new tank since the 10 gal is too small, and
just feeding them a few each week, but read they may not get along
too well with the guppies, and cardinal or neon tetras I hope to get.

Basically here is what my dilema is right now... I am considering
some Neon or Cardinal Tetras (my kids have been begging), Danios, and
something to eat my snails (loaches?), but I want them all to co-
exist, or know what to put in 10 gal and what to put in 38 gal if
they need to be seperated. Your input is greatly appreciated.

I WILL be getting a few more corys, platies of each gender and a few
colorful male guppies (I have about 8 very plain grey
females "feeders", hoping they will produce some fancies if bred with
fancy male?!? - am I all wet with that theory?). I will also be
getting live plants of varying types, but I've found I can't go
looking for XYZ plant because they NEVER seem to have the same thing
in stock from week to week, and I am disappointed and come home with
something totally different. They have a bamboo last week, I am
hoping they will have at least one left!

I'd like to keep my live bearers in the 38 gal tank, since I already
have a nice group of them quickly out growing the 10 gal. I will
need to pawn some of them off to the pet store as the fry who have
survived grow bigger. Seems I get to keep about 5 of each birthing.
I don't try to capture them any more, never worked too well for me,
so these are just the ones who hide best!

Thanks for reading!

Betty Lou Kline
www.YourQuietRetreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22748 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: Re: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
Another way to control the snail popuation is to crush the snails
against the glass and the fish wl have fresh food. If you pu
your pond snails in your garden pond, they will stay in the water or
they will die, they have to be in water to live not like the garden
snails and slugs.
If you mate a fancy male guppy with a "feeder" female guppy you
will not get "fancy guppies but rathere something in between. and
since they can store sperm for several spawnings, if you have a
fancy female and she has been in with "feeder" males the babies will
not be fancy either



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou"
<yourquietretreat@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 10 gal tank which I have had for about a year now, and
just
> got a 38 gal set up as a birthday gift!! I have been cycling it
for
> a couple of weeks and added a few expendable "feeder" guppies to
it
> tonight to help things along a little. I mainly am interested in
> guppies & platies, I have an albino cory who will stay in the 10
gal,
> and definatly want to get more of them! I love "him"!!
>
> I have 5 little 1 to 2 month old platy babies which I have not
been
> able to sex yet - but they will be going into the new tank. Their
> mother seems to have hemoroids, and she keeps her tail folded up
not
> fanned out like ususal - not sure exactly what is wrong with her,
but
> she is in isolation since Moe the daddy just won't leave her
alone -
> what medication does she need? She is the lone surviving female,
he
> bullied the others to death I think. Since he is so mean and
seems
> to pick a favorite female, and batters the rest, I'm going to let
him
> be a celibate little bachelor in the 10 gal tank as well.
>
> I have live plants in the 10 gal, which yielded MANY little
snails.
> I don't mind them, in fact some are pretty, but they are taking
over
> the 10 gal tank!! I've read to put a piece of lettuce in a salt
> shaker to draw them in, but then what do you do, flush them? I
> thought about putting them in my water garden in the hopes the
> horrible snakes would eat them (but don't want to encourage more
of
> the snakes either), and what if they won't then they take over my
> yard, and I don't want to be stepping on them! I thought about
> buying loaches for the new tank since the 10 gal is too small, and
> just feeding them a few each week, but read they may not get along
> too well with the guppies, and cardinal or neon tetras I hope to
get.
>
> Basically here is what my dilema is right now... I am considering
> some Neon or Cardinal Tetras (my kids have been begging), Danios,
and
> something to eat my snails (loaches?), but I want them all to co-
> exist, or know what to put in 10 gal and what to put in 38 gal if
> they need to be seperated. Your input is greatly appreciated.
>
> I WILL be getting a few more corys, platies of each gender and a
few
> colorful male guppies (I have about 8 very plain grey
> females "feeders", hoping they will produce some fancies if bred
with
> fancy male?!? - am I all wet with that theory?). I will also be
> getting live plants of varying types, but I've found I can't go
> looking for XYZ plant because they NEVER seem to have the same
thing
> in stock from week to week, and I am disappointed and come home
with
> something totally different. They have a bamboo last week, I am
> hoping they will have at least one left!
>
> I'd like to keep my live bearers in the 38 gal tank, since I
already
> have a nice group of them quickly out growing the 10 gal. I will
> need to pawn some of them off to the pet store as the fry who have
> survived grow bigger. Seems I get to keep about 5 of each
birthing.
> I don't try to capture them any more, never worked too well for
me,
> so these are just the ones who hide best!
>
> Thanks for reading!
>
> Betty Lou Kline
> www.YourQuietRetreat.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22749 From: iowakoi Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: 2 frogs fighting over flies
I came accross this vidoe on the web and thought my fellow pond owners
would enjoy it, too.Two funny cartoon frogs fighting over some flies.

Watch it at http://www.animaenia.com/?vID=1180614805
<http://www.animaenia.com/?vID=1180614805>

Happy ponding, Gail Hopkins Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22750 From: Betty Lou Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: New 38 gal tank - need help and ideas! LONG
I have a 10 gal tank which I have had for about a year now, and just
got a 38 gal set up as a birthday gift!! I have been cycling it for
a couple of weeks and added a few expendable "feeder" guppies to it
tonight to help things along a little. I mainly am interested in
guppies & platies, I have an albino cory who will stay in the 10 gal,
and definatly want to get more of them! I love "him"!!

I have 5 little 1 to 2 month old platy babies which I have not been
able to sex yet - but they will be going into the new tank. Their
mother seems to have hemoroids, and she keeps her tail folded up not
fanned out like ususal - not sure exactly what is wrong with her, but
she is in isolation since Moe the daddy just won't leave her alone -
what medication does she need? She is the lone surviving female, he
bullied the others to death I think. Since he is so mean and seems
to pick a favorite female, and batters the rest, I'm going to let him
be a celibate little bachelor in the 10 gal tank as well.

I have live plants in the 10 gal, which yielded MANY little snails.
I don't mind them, in fact some are pretty, but they are taking over
the 10 gal tank!! I've read to put a piece of lettuce in a salt
shaker to draw them in, but then what do you do, flush them? I
thought about putting them in my water garden in the hopes the
horrible snakes would eat them (but don't want to encourage more of
the snakes either), and what if they won't then they take over my
yard, and I don't want to be stepping on them! I thought about
buying loaches for the new tank since the 10 gal is too small, and
just feeding them a few each week, but read they may not get along
too well with the guppies, and cardinal or neon tetras I hope to get.

Basically here is what my dilema is right now... I am considering
some Neon or Cardinal Tetras (my kids have been begging), Danios, and
something to eat my snails (loaches?), but I want them all to co-
exist, or know what to put in 10 gal and what to put in 38 gal if
they need to be seperated. Your input is greatly appreciated.

I WILL be getting a few more corys, platies of each gender and a few
colorful male guppies (I have about 8 very plain grey
females "feeders", hoping they will produce some fancies if bred with
fancy male?!? - am I all wet with that theory?). I will also be
getting live plants of varying types, but I've found I can't go
looking for XYZ plant because they NEVER seem to have the same thing
in stock from week to week, and I am disappointed and come home with
something totally different. They have a bamboo last week, I am
hoping they will have at least one left!

I'd like to keep my live bearers in the 38 gal tank, since I already
have a nice group of them quickly out growing the 10 gal. I will
need to pawn some of them off to the pet store as the fry who have
survived grow bigger. Seems I get to keep about 5 of each birthing.
I don't try to capture them any more, never worked too well for me,
so these are just the ones who hide best!

Thanks for reading!

Betty Lou Kline
www.YourQuietRetreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22751 From: boncarles Date: 5/31/2007
Subject: 50 gallon on second story?
Hi! Is my 50 gallon tank safe on a second story apartment? I have it
on my best outside wall, but I have a balcony outside there, and an
enclosed storage room -- so I am hoping the wall is indeed the outside
stronger wall where I actually have the tank. I also am unsure where
the studs are - I have it facing the opposite as the doors in this
apartment (vertical versus horizontal) but not sure how to tell for
sure were the studs are. This is for my gorgeous goldfish. I would
love to get a bigger tank, but can't wait to move. what would you all
say is the maximum for goldfish, even temporarily (number or size) in
this tank? I inhereted a few cuties but want to make sure they are OK.
Thanks!!! I love watching your advice, though I would ask for some of
your expertise.
Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22752 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: 50 gallon on second story?
What kind of building is it? Wood Frame? Concrete? Steel beam? As long
as the floor is level, you should be able to place it almost anywhere.

I lived on the second floor of an old farmhouse for a time. I had
several hundred gallons of tanks in one room with no problem.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of boncarles
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 2:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 50 gallon on second story?


Hi! Is my 50 gallon tank safe on a second story apartment? I have it
on my best outside wall, but I have a balcony outside there, and an
enclosed storage room -- so I am hoping the wall is indeed the outside
stronger wall where I actually have the tank. I also am unsure where
the studs are - I have it facing the opposite as the doors in this
apartment (vertical versus horizontal) but not sure how to tell for
sure were the studs are. This is for my gorgeous goldfish. I would
love to get a bigger tank, but can't wait to move. what would you all
say is the maximum for goldfish, even temporarily (number or size) in
this tank? I inhereted a few cuties but want to make sure they are OK.
Thanks!!! I love watching your advice, though I would ask for some of
your expertise.
Beth
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22753 From: Memrie Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Lenny, ty for that link. As I have inheireted (sp?) 2 females I was
interested in what they needed. I may become addicted and get a few
males to go with the ladies.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Here's a good article with lots of pics. Scroll down about 1/2 way
to find
> pics of eggs. When they hatch, they are very vulnerable so it's
best to
> remove the eggs to another tank if you want to save them.
> http://www.aqualandpetsplus.com/Catfish,%20Corydoras.htm
>
> Here's another article I have in my favorites.
>
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Naus_Breeding_Corydoras.h
tml
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Barb
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 4:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] corydora eggs
>
> I am fairly new to keeping fish. I have a 25 gallon tank with 3
Harlequin
> Rasboras, 5 Red Eyed Tetras and 2 Bronze Corydora Catfish.
> The tank was fishless cycled first and I have had the fish for
about 2
> months now. All is well and today I found some eggs stuck to the
glass - I
> think they must be Cory eggs and I wonder does anyone have advice
about what
> to do? I presume if I do nothing the other fish will eat them or
the fry,
> should they hatch. I just have plastic plants in the tank so far,
will they
> be enough for the babies to hide in?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Barb
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.4/825 - Release Date:
5/30/2007
> 3:03 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22754 From: Just ask me Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Man says he captured Loch Ness A sea monster on film
The Loch Ness monster is back — and there's video। A man has
captured what Nessie watchers say is possible footage of the supposed
mythical creature beneath Scotland's most mysterious lake. "I couldn't
believe my eyes when I saw this jet black thing, about 45 feet long,
moving fairly fast in the water," said Gordon Holmes, the 55-year-old a
lab technician from Shipley, Yorkshire, who took the video
Saturday.Nessie watcher and marine biologist Adrian Shine viewed the
video and hoped to properly analyze it in the coming months."I see
myself as a skeptical interpreter of what happens in the loch, but I do
keep an open mind about these things and there is no doubt this is some
of the best footage I have seen," said Shine, of the Loch Ness 2000
center in Drumnadrochit, on the shores of the lake.Holmes said whatever
it was moved at about 6 mph and kept a fairly straight course."My
initial thought is it could be a very big eel, they have serpent-like
features and they may explain all the sightings in Loch Ness over the
years."Loch Ness is surrounded by myth. It's the largest inland body of
water in Britain, and at about 750 feet to the bottom, it's even deeper
than the North Sea."There are a number of possible explanations to the
sightings in the loch. It could be some biological creature, it could
just be the waves of the loch or it could some psychological phenomenon
in as much as we see what we want to see," Shine said.While many
sightings can be attributed to a drop of the local whisky, legends of
Scottish monsters date back to one of the founders of the Christian
church in Scotland, St. Columba, who wrote of them in about 565 A.D.More
recently, there have been more than 4,000 purported Nessie sightings
since she was first caught on camera by a surgeon on vacation in the
1930s.Since then, the faithful have speculated about it is a completely
unknown species, a sturgeon — even though they have not been native
to Scotland's waters for many years — or even a last surviving
dinosaur.Real or imagined, Nessie has long been a Scottish emblem. Read
more and see the videos at Marine animal news
<http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22755 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: 50 gallon on second story?
A 50G tank should be no problem on a 2nd floor... even if you didn't put it
in the best/strongest spot. Usually up to 100G is fine for most residential
units before strategy is needed to locate them on load bearing walls, etc.

As far as goldfish, a 50G tank would be OK for two round-bodied goldfish for
a couple of years before a larger tank would likely be needed. If you have
more than two, you could have up to 5 small goldfish (under 4" body) as long
as you do weekly or twice weekly 25% PWC's and test your water regularly to
make sure you maintain excellent water quality. You should monitor the
normal things like ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH but also check KH and
GH. KH should be kept between 7-10dH and if it drops too low, it can cause
the pH to crash in the tank... which could be deadly.

You should also have as close to 10X filtration as possible and if you do
have more than two, it would be good to run carbon or an advanced chemical
filtration like Purigen. If you use carbon, it should be changed out every
couple of weeks. Purigen is rechargeable using a bleach solution and
changes color to dark brown when it's time to clean it. I usually do mine
every few weeks.

There's much more to say but that's a good start along with info you will
get from other members. Feel free to ask more specific questions and here
is a good 4 page article on goldfish keeping.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of boncarles
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 1:44 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 50 gallon on second story?


Hi! Is my 50 gallon tank safe on a second story apartment? I have it on my
best outside wall, but I have a balcony outside there, and an enclosed
storage room -- so I am hoping the wall is indeed the outside stronger wall
where I actually have the tank. I also am unsure where the studs are - I
have it facing the opposite as the doors in this apartment (vertical versus
horizontal) but not sure how to tell for sure were the studs are. This is
for my gorgeous goldfish. I would love to get a bigger tank, but can't wait
to move. what would you all say is the maximum for goldfish, even
temporarily (number or size) in this tank? I inhereted a few cuties but want
to make sure they are OK.
Thanks!!! I love watching your advice, though I would ask for some of your
expertise.
Beth



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.5/826 - Release Date: 5/31/2007
4:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22756 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
How can you tell the difference? I have two really pretty cats and they are fairly large ones.....


----- Original Message ----
From: Memrie <mblue833@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 1, 2007 7:52:23 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: corydora eggs

Lenny, ty for that link. As I have inheireted (sp?) 2 females I was
interested in what they needed. I may become addicted and get a few
males to go with the ladies.

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@. ..> wrote:
>
> Here's a good article with lots of pics. Scroll down about 1/2 way
to find
> pics of eggs. When they hatch, they are very vulnerable so it's
best to
> remove the eggs to another tank if you want to save them.
> http://www.aqualand petsplus. com/Catfish, %20Corydoras. htm
>
> Here's another article I have in my favorites.
>
http://www.aquartic les.com/articles /breeding/ Naus_Breeding_ Corydoras. h
tml
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. blogspot. com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
> Behalf Of Barb
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2007 4:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] corydora eggs
>
> I am fairly new to keeping fish. I have a 25 gallon tank with 3
Harlequin
> Rasboras, 5 Red Eyed Tetras and 2 Bronze Corydora Catfish.
> The tank was fishless cycled first and I have had the fish for
about 2
> months now. All is well and today I found some eggs stuck to the
glass - I
> think they must be Cory eggs and I wonder does anyone have advice
about what
> to do? I presume if I do nothing the other fish will eat them or
the fry,
> should they hatch. I just have plastic plants in the tank so far,
will they
> be enough for the babies to hide in?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Barb
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.4/825 - Release Date:
5/30/2007
> 3:03 PM
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22757 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
I now have the little otto's in all my tanks. I took the chinese
algae eaters back to the store because they were too
aggressive. The otto's get the job done and leave the other
fish alone.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Donna Ransome
Sent: Mon 5/28/2007 5:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?



What about an Otocinclus for the algae eater?

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?

You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3 rosy
barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and they only
show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6 barbs to keep them
bickering among themselves and not annoying other tankmates.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: T. Craig Morton
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?

I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more Tetras
would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my tank.

Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small tank
community?

thanks

T.C. Morton

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22758 From: Pat Jellison Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: (no subject)
My local fishkeeping friends keep bugging me to look into this, so
here goes -- I have kept a tank of guppies for years, and they
started out the usual way -- males with spectacular fins, females
drab with short fins. After many generations, my females now look a
lot like my males -- longish brightly-colored fins, especially on the
tails and sometimes the dorsal fins. I was showing them to one friend
and he did not believe they were females until he saw one produce
young. I've never thought much about it; I didn't deliberately breed
them for this trait, I just keep the tank because I enjoy them. But
of course I do favor the gorgeous ones when I have to cull, so I
guess there's a little bit of selection going on.

My question is, is this really as unusual/unheard of as my friends
think? Should I be showing these fish or something? None of us is a
guppy specialist -- I certainly don't claim to be -- but they've got
me curious and I haven't found anything definitive on the 'nets. I
don't have good pictures yet unfortunately (don't have a macro lens).

Any input appreciated!
PJ



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22759 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows
where I can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they
seem to be neat little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22760 From: Allison & Barb Rose Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: corydora eggs
Hi Lenny:
Thanks for the links to those two articles - very interesting! It seeems that at the least I need a breeding net and another tank would be best for raising the fry.
There seems to be quite a risk of bacteria and fungus attacking the eggs, if they don't get eaten first, so I don't think my chances of success are high, but I will wait and see and let you know what happens.

Thanks again

Barb

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22761 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Lynda,

Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in the
tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first bit,
but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process unless
there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to several
weeks in a freshwater.

Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL don't
feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage saltwater.
There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the fish
are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most fish
stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because people
kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and go
freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that for a
year or so, then switch to saltwater.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Bart,
> Thank you for the information. It will be a fish only tank for
now. I
> think I'd better see if I can keep fish alive before I pour more
money
> into this venture :). Originally, I was going to buy my husband a
30
> gallon fresh water tank for our anniversary and I made the mistake
of
> taking him shopping with me. We came home with the 90 gallon and he
> decided to make it a saltwater tank. The saltwater fish are much
more
> colorful than freshwater fish, but I had always heard that
saltwater
> fish are hard to keep alive. Now after more reading, it seems if
you
> just test the water often and stay on top of things, it isn't that
> difficult. We did our first water test and all the levels look
good so
> far.
>
> Thanks again
> Lynda
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22762 From: jaywaltondrawin Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Fish Shows...
where can I find out if there will be a show in my area? I have two
ADORABLE fry that I heop will be able to compete when they grow a bit
more.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22763 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re:
What you are seeing is an exercise in genetics. You have a limited group
of fish. They breed, well, like guppies <g>. Guppies, like a few other
species, are fairly malleable when it comes to genetics, in that you can
do a lot, if you know what you are doing, and there is, quite
frequently, mutations that come to the surface. Since you have a limited
group, with no fresh genes coming in, these are easily passed along to
other guppies and can be come dominant traits. This is why you see the
females picking up male traits.

Should you show them? Well, that is up to you. Will they win? Depends
on the competition, but your females are likely to be marked down,
particularly if IFGA rules are followed, since they will not fit the
definition of a good female guppy.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pat Jellison
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife]

My local fishkeeping friends keep bugging me to look into this, so
here goes -- I have kept a tank of guppies for years, and they
started out the usual way -- males with spectacular fins, females
drab with short fins. After many generations, my females now look a
lot like my males -- longish brightly-colored fins, especially on the
tails and sometimes the dorsal fins. I was showing them to one friend
and he did not believe they were females until he saw one produce
young. I've never thought much about it; I didn't deliberately breed
them for this trait, I just keep the tank because I enjoy them. But
of course I do favor the gorgeous ones when I have to cull, so I
guess there's a little bit of selection going on.

My question is, is this really as unusual/unheard of as my friends
think? Should I be showing these fish or something? None of us is a
guppy specialist -- I certainly don't claim to be -- but they've got
me curious and I haven't found anything definitive on the 'nets. I
don't have good pictures yet unfortunately (don't have a macro lens).

Any input appreciated!
PJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22764 From: EAR Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Thanks for the heads up as I was about to purchase the Chinese algae eaters for my tanks.

Liz


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22765 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check
out the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is
being offered on AquaBid.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows
where I can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they
seem to be neat little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22766 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Kelly,

I can not tell you how many tanks I've cycled without using any fish at
all. While there are other methods to achieve this, but my favorite is
just to add ammonia to the tank to read 5 ppm, and then maintain that
level with daily additions as needed until the whole lot is utilized in
one day with the result being 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and x nitrates.
Then, animals can be added to the tank.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 9:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium

Lynda,

Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in the
tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first bit,
but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process unless
there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to several
weeks in a freshwater.

Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL don't
feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage saltwater.
There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the fish
are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most fish
stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because people
kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and go
freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that for a
year or so, then switch to saltwater.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Bart,
> Thank you for the information. It will be a fish only tank for
now. I
> think I'd better see if I can keep fish alive before I pour more
money
> into this venture :). Originally, I was going to buy my husband a
30
> gallon fresh water tank for our anniversary and I made the mistake
of
> taking him shopping with me. We came home with the 90 gallon and he
> decided to make it a saltwater tank. The saltwater fish are much
more
> colorful than freshwater fish, but I had always heard that
saltwater
> fish are hard to keep alive. Now after more reading, it seems if
you
> just test the water often and stay on top of things, it isn't that
> difficult. We did our first water test and all the levels look
good so
> far.
>
> Thanks again
> Lynda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22767 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Shows...
The best way is to join your local aquarium society. Then you should
hear of shows in the area presented by other clubs as well as the
possibility that your club will put on a show.

Since you gave no clue as to where you are located, it is tough for
anyone to help you find a club or a show. You also do not mention the
type of fish you have that you want to show. It may be covered by a
specialty group, and they often put on their own shows for the fish
included in the specialty.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jaywaltondrawin
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 8:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Shows...

where can I find out if there will be a show in my area? I have two
ADORABLE fry that I heop will be able to compete when they grow a bit
more.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22768 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Hard to keep,huh? That makes me even more wary of spending so
much on shipping. I followed a link on the Dr's F & S page to order
one but backed out when I saw shipping prices. Do you know what
makes them hard to keep other than being small? Are they as
difficult as dwarf puffers?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Fri 6/1/2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami



Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check
out the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is
being offered on AquaBid.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows
where I can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they
seem to be neat little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22769 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
While most texts will tell you that the fish are omnivorous, they do
best on live foods only, and I have not known them to adapt to a flake
diet very well. I have not known them to be eaters of things vegetable
either, which is inherent in the term omnivorous.

They need warm, still water at a temperature that will make many other
fish uncomfortable, but that is OK since they do best in a species tank
or with a few other, related fish.

If they have been in the distribution channel for very long, you may
have a long road to travel to get them back up and healthy, since it is
not likely they have eaten much, if anything during their time in
transit.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 10:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hard to keep,huh? That makes me even more wary of spending so
much on shipping. I followed a link on the Dr's F & S page to order
one but backed out when I saw shipping prices. Do you know what
makes them hard to keep other than being small? Are they as
difficult as dwarf puffers?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Fri 6/1/2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami



Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check
out the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is
being offered on AquaBid.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows
where I can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they
seem to be neat little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22770 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
That sounds like it would fit in the tank I was planning on. I have
a small species tank that stays 80 F most of the time and has
a small filter in it so the water doesn't move a lot. I have some
wisteria in there right now so the snails have a place to graze.
I don't care for the plant though because it sheds a lot and is
making the water dirty. I like hardy fish though and maybe
the pygmy isn't quite that. I feed mostly frozen brine and tub-
ifex worms to my puffer. He doesn't go for flakes or pellets
either. Shrimp, tubifex worms and snails.... Yum, yum...
Thanks for all the info, again, Steve. I appreciate it.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sat 6/2/2007 9:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami



While most texts will tell you that the fish are omnivorous, they do
best on live foods only, and I have not known them to adapt to a flake
diet very well. I have not known them to be eaters of things vegetable
either, which is inherent in the term omnivorous.

They need warm, still water at a temperature that will make many other
fish uncomfortable, but that is OK since they do best in a species tank
or with a few other, related fish.

If they have been in the distribution channel for very long, you may
have a long road to travel to get them back up and healthy, since it is
not likely they have eaten much, if anything during their time in
transit.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 10:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hard to keep,huh? That makes me even more wary of spending so
much on shipping. I followed a link on the Dr's F & S page to order
one but backed out when I saw shipping prices. Do you know what
makes them hard to keep other than being small? Are they as
difficult as dwarf puffers?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Fri 6/1/2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check
out the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is
being offered on AquaBid.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows
where I can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they
seem to be neat little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22771 From: MECDALE Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: WATER CHANGES?
Just started recently with a 55 gal freshwater with a good amount of
plants, pretty good amount of light, co2 tank with reactor and a few
fish , (8-10). I do a weekly water change but my tap hard so I mostly
use Sparklets water. I know it doesn't have much in minerals so I add
a liquid fertilizer.
Should I be using distilled or should I treat the tap water?

Any thoughts?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22772 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: WATER CHANGES?
Keep fish and plants that do well in hard water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of MECDALE
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 2:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] WATER CHANGES?

Just started recently with a 55 gal freshwater with a good amount of
plants, pretty good amount of light, co2 tank with reactor and a few
fish , (8-10). I do a weekly water change but my tap hard so I mostly
use Sparklets water. I know it doesn't have much in minerals so I add
a liquid fertilizer.
Should I be using distilled or should I treat the tap water?

Any thoughts?




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22773 From: sue Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: algae
There is no direct sunlight hitting the tank, we made sure of that. We don't
over feed. the get a small pinch 2 times a day. we have about 6 fish, 1
gourami, 1 glow light, 3 rosy barbs and 2 other fish..(not sure what they
are). This is in a 29 gal tank. we put the fish in a smaller tank and
totally cleaned and put all new stuff back in the tank, it sat for about 3
weeks with nothing in it except gravel and plants. After we introduced the
fish, the tank cycled, then about a month later, the algae came back. The
PH, hardness, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia all came back normal, so we
have no idea what causes the algae to bloom. I think we're going to try a
UV sterilizer next and see if that clears up the situation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 9:26 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] algae


How long have you been keeping fish? Do you understand "The Nitrogen
Cycle"?

Tell us more about your tank, fish, stocking and filtration.

When you say you "started the tank over again", does that mean you broke
down and cleaned everything? If so, you are now in the middle of cycling
all over again. You need to test your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH
and post your numbers so we can see what is going on. It's not good to
cycle a tank with fish as the high nitrogen levels will harm the fish and
will also cause algae blooms if the tank is getting too much light.

If you already know about this, forgive the reply but you never gave much
info in your initial post.

In the mean time, cut back your feedings, vacuum your gravel with each 25%
PWC (partial water change) and do daily 25% PWC's until things are settled
down with algae growth.

I don't like doing 50% PWC's as it can change the water chemistry too much
too fast and cause shock issues to the fish. If you feel you need to change
50% a week, do it twice weekly with 25% each time. It will be better for
your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sue
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 7:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] algae

we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater green.
We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish to the tank
again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned totally green again.
Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial water changes of about 50% and
still no luck.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007
10:47 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22774 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Hi, Kelly
Thanks for your advice. Actually, I agree. We bought some
sacrificial damsels to rush up the cycling process right after my
last post (about a week). We lost one right away (maybe I injured
him getting him home and in the tank) but the other 11 are doing very
well. I have had freshwater tanks in the past and was successful
with them so I'm not a total beginner - just a beginner keeping
saltwater tanks. I tested the water yesterday and it is changing but
that is what we expected. So far I don't regret the decision to go
saltwater but check back with me next week :). We really are
enjoying watching our colorful critters.

Lynda


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
<kelly_anne333@...> wrote:
>
> Lynda,
>
> Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in the
> tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first bit,
> but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process unless
> there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
several
> weeks in a freshwater.
>
> Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL don't
> feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
saltwater.
> There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the fish
> are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
fish
> stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because people
> kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and go
> freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that for
a
> year or so, then switch to saltwater.
>
> Kelly
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22775 From: Betty Lou Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: my new clown loach (for snails)
I bought a clown loach today to control my snails, but also have read
that they are interesting to keep! He jumped out of the little
collection tank at the pet store, played dead on the way home, and has
been fun to watch as he settles in! Is he going to eat the shells and
snails, or just the soft part of the critter? I put a few in with him,
but not a gob, guess I should have counted them to see if they come up
missing!

The loach is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches - how big of a snail is too big?
I have a couple which I would like to keep "safe". The kids have named
2 of them, and would be heart broken, the others are just so pretty. I
probably should just keep them in a different tank to be safe.

Thanks!

Betty Lou
www.YourQuietRetreat.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22776 From: c j Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: my new clown loach (for snails)
You loach will just eat the soft part. You'll start noticing empty shells
around the tank.

He'll eat snail that is big enough to fit in his mouth. Although - I have
to say I've had a few that escaped mine when the snails were small, letting
they grow to a good size. Eventually the loaches did find a way to eat them
as well.

They are fun to watch. Grow to a big size if in the proper size tank, and
love to be with 2 or 3 others of their kind.

On 6/2/07, Betty Lou <yourquietretreat@...> wrote:
>
> I bought a clown loach today to control my snails, but also have read
> that they are interesting to keep! He jumped out of the little
> collection tank at the pet store, played dead on the way home, and has
> been fun to watch as he settles in! Is he going to eat the shells and
> snails, or just the soft part of the critter? I put a few in with him,
> but not a gob, guess I should have counted them to see if they come up
> missing!
>
> The loach is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches - how big of a snail is too big?
> I have a couple which I would like to keep "safe". The kids have named
> 2 of them, and would be heart broken, the others are just so pretty. I
> probably should just keep them in a different tank to be safe.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Betty Lou
> www.YourQuietRetreat.com
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: WATER CHANGES?
What are the test results on your tap water? You should also age your tap
for 24-48 hours before testing it as some of the buffers used by water
utilities will wear out once the water is exposed to light and air so your
KH and GH could change quite a bit compared to the test results right out of
the tap. I did my most recent blog on establishing your tap/source water
baseline so you will then be able to compare things in your tank more
accurately.

What kind of fish are you wanting to keep? There are plenty of fish that do
well and like hard water and higher pH but if you don't mind spending a
fortune on using bottle spring water (DO NOT USE 100% DISTILLED). Some
people do use distilled as a mix with their hard tap water to dilute the
hardness but it can still be costly compared to keeping fish that like your
water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of MECDALE
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 1:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] WATER CHANGES?

Just started recently with a 55 gal freshwater with a good amount of plants,
pretty good amount of light, co2 tank with reactor and a few fish , (8-10).
I do a weekly water change but my tap hard so I mostly use Sparklets water.
I know it doesn't have much in minerals so I add a liquid fertilizer.
Should I be using distilled or should I treat the tap water?

Any thoughts?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
11:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22778 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
They are human engineered via selective breeding which changes their
genetics. Whenever "we" do things to alter the genetics of a species, like
they do on the fancy goldfish too, it usually leads to other unseen genetic
abnormalities which causes them to be less healthy than their
non-genetically altered counterparts. I'm not saying that it shouldn't be
done, but we have to accept that there are likely to be downsides with
inbred species. Fancy goldfish are much more prone to health issues than
their long-bodied "natural" goldfish.... but people still spend plenty of
money on them... up to hundreds of dollars each. I keep fancies and spend
lots of time on various goldfish forums and the fancier the goldfish, the
more likely they will have health issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 9:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hard to keep,huh? That makes me even more wary of spending so much on
shipping. I followed a link on the Dr's F & S page to order one but backed
out when I saw shipping prices. Do you know what makes them hard to keep
other than being small? Are they as difficult as dwarf puffers?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Fri 6/1/2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check out
the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is being
offered on AquaBid.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows where I
can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they seem to be neat
little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
11:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22779 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: algae
It would be better if you could give us numbers on your test results.
"Normal" tells us nothing since there is no such thing as "normal" for most
of the test results. Ammonia and nitrites should always be 0.0ppm in a
properly cycled tank. Those are the only two where "normal" might apply...
as long as they are both 0.0ppm. Nitrates will climb as the end product of
the nitrogen cycle and is usually kept below 40ppm and preferably below
20ppm by doing regular PWC's. If your nitrates get too high, they are a
food source for plants and algae (single celled plants). You should also
have your tap/source water tested for phosphates. Many areas get water that
is affected by farm runoff which can have high phosphates and nitrates right
out the tap. Things like KH, GH and pH could have dramatically different
ranges... even changing with the time of the year in your area. My GH and
pH goes up during the hot summer months... I believe due to the warmer water
flowing through the pipes causing some of the hard water buildup to leech
into the water.

You also need to identify the two unknown fish. Take pictures and post them
in the groups photo album section or your own online photo album
(photobucket, webshots, etc.) and give us a link.

What is the maintenance schedule on your tank? How often are you doing 25%
PWC's and filter maintenance? Are you vacuuming your gravel with each PWC?
Are your plants real or artificial?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of sue
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 11:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] algae

There is no direct sunlight hitting the tank, we made sure of that. We don't
over feed. the get a small pinch 2 times a day. we have about 6 fish, 1
gourami, 1 glow light, 3 rosy barbs and 2 other fish..(not sure what they
are). This is in a 29 gal tank. we put the fish in a smaller tank and
totally cleaned and put all new stuff back in the tank, it sat for about 3
weeks with nothing in it except gravel and plants. After we introduced the
fish, the tank cycled, then about a month later, the algae came back. The
PH, hardness, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia all came back normal, so we
have no idea what causes the algae to bloom. I think we're going to try a
UV sterilizer next and see if that clears up the situation.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 9:26 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] algae


How long have you been keeping fish? Do you understand "The Nitrogen
Cycle"?

Tell us more about your tank, fish, stocking and filtration.

When you say you "started the tank over again", does that mean you broke
down and cleaned everything? If so, you are now in the middle of cycling
all over again. You need to test your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH
and post your numbers so we can see what is going on. It's not good to
cycle a tank with fish as the high nitrogen levels will harm the fish and
will also cause algae blooms if the tank is getting too much light.

If you already know about this, forgive the reply but you never gave much
info in your initial post.

In the mean time, cut back your feedings, vacuum your gravel with each 25%
PWC (partial water change) and do daily 25% PWC's until things are settled
down with algae growth.

I don't like doing 50% PWC's as it can change the water chemistry too much
too fast and cause shock issues to the fish. If you feel you need to change
50% a week, do it twice weekly with 25% each time. It will be better for
your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sue
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 7:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] algae

we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater green.
We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish to the tank
again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned totally green again.
Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial water changes of about 50% and
still no luck.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
11:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22780 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/2/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
Ooops. I guess I was mistaken on the human input into this species. So
many of the "dwarf" varieties of fish are man-made variants of an existing
species and are created via selective breeding. I did some Googling and it
appears this species of pygmy gourami is not man-made. Sorry!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny [mailto:goldlenny@...]
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 9:45 PM
To: 'AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

They are human engineered via selective breeding which changes their
genetics. Whenever "we" do things to alter the genetics of a species, like
they do on the fancy goldfish too, it usually leads to other unseen genetic
abnormalities which causes them to be less healthy than their
non-genetically altered counterparts. I'm not saying that it shouldn't be
done, but we have to accept that there are likely to be downsides with
inbred species. Fancy goldfish are much more prone to health issues than
their long-bodied "natural" goldfish.... but people still spend plenty of
money on them... up to hundreds of dollars each. I keep fancies and spend
lots of time on various goldfish forums and the fancier the goldfish, the
more likely they will have health issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 9:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hard to keep,huh? That makes me even more wary of spending so much on
shipping. I followed a link on the Dr's F & S page to order one but backed
out when I saw shipping prices. Do you know what makes them hard to keep
other than being small? Are they as difficult as dwarf puffers?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Fri 6/1/2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Neat and tough to ship and tough to keep. They can be found, but not in
large numbers, and I don't know about your area of the country. Check out
the labyrinth-fish group here on Yahoo! And also check out what is being
offered on AquaBid.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 5:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] sparkling/pygmy gourami

Hi All,

I was wondering if there was anyone in the Dallas TX area that knows where I
can get a pygmy gourami? I read a profile on them and they seem to be neat
little fish. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
11:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22781 From: Memrie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
A real man that can admit when he is wrong is rare indeed. Can I
marry you Lenny? LOL

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Ooops. I guess I was mistaken on the human input into this
species. So
> many of the "dwarf" varieties of fish are man-made variants of an
existing
> species and are created via selective breeding. I did some
Googling and it
> appears this species of pygmy gourami is not man-made. Sorry!
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22782 From: T. Craig Morton Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: good tank mates for rosy barbs?
Interesting development to report. I decided to do a full-tank
change last week-end. I got a bit lax in my water/filter changing
regimen and I had accumulated a mass of algae. Anyway, I put the
pairs of Barbs/Tetra in separate bowls while I cleaned my system.

Amid my scrambling about I noticed that one of the Tetras (the larger-
-which I think was the female)--had jumped out of the bowl to the
carpeted floor 4 feet below. She could have been there 15-20 minutes
or so. When I lurched down to grab her she flippered a bit signaling
that she wasn't dead yet so I put her back in the bowl--she finned a
bit but she looked a bit beyond coming back...and she didn't. My mind
soon got into thinking about getting additional fish hence startinng
this thread for advice.

To make a short story shorter, ever since the "accident"...the small
community has made a remarkable change---the remaining (smaller)
tetra is more gregarious than ever (in the past he used to hide
mostly, or often lay low at the bottom with the female---when feeding
time came the Barbs would do their usual "frenzy" and the Tetras
would often settle for remnants at the bottom--BUT now
this little guy is all over the place and hangs out at the top, and
feeds and even feeds right along side the bullying rosy
barbs...instead of eyeing the Tetras, the pair of Barbs "play" more
with each other--chasing each other back and forth and around the
artificial plant and coral features.

I am kind of surprised how just the absence of 1 fish could make such
a difference, but I guess with a small tank community this could be
expected. It certainly is consistent with what Wendie said about
getting more Barbs to outnumber the other fish. My population only
went from 2-2 to 2-1....It's only 3 fish but all three seem much more
comfortable--the male Tetra is much more outgoing and the Barb
activity (although still as lively as ever) appears more on the
playful side rather than on the agressive side.

Not only am I now not thinking of getting replacement Tetra(s)---I am
reluctant to pursue the algae eater--as well. But the Otto sounds
worth a try.

T. Craig

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> I now have the little otto's in all my tanks. I took the chinese
> algae eaters back to the store because they were too
> aggressive. The otto's get the job done and leave the other
> fish alone.
>
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Donna Ransome
> Sent: Mon 5/28/2007 5:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?
>
>
>
> What about an Otocinclus for the algae eater?
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf Of Wendie
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 5:14 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?
>
> You actually need more barbs to tone down the aggression. I keep 3
rosy
> barbs, 3 neon rosy barbs and 4 albino tiger barbs together and they
only
> show aggression among themselves. You need at least 6 barbs to keep
them
> bickering among themselves and not annoying other tankmates.
> Wendie
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: T. Craig Morton
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2007 4:22 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] good tank mates for rosy barbs?
>
> I have a small 10 gal. tank. 2 Rosy Barbs have been paired with a
> couple of Pristella (x-ray) Tetras. If I got a couple of more
Tetras
> would the Barbs be less agressive? I don't want to overcrowd my
tank.
>
> Also, can anyone recommend a compatible algae eater for my small
tank
> community?
>
> thanks
>
> T.C. Morton
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22783 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: algae
The UV will work allmost instantly, but you have to leave it on for a few
months, or it will come right back.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "sue" <seagap52@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] algae


> There is no direct sunlight hitting the tank, we made sure of that. We
> don't
> over feed. the get a small pinch 2 times a day. we have about 6 fish, 1
> gourami, 1 glow light, 3 rosy barbs and 2 other fish..(not sure what they
> are). This is in a 29 gal tank. we put the fish in a smaller tank and
> totally cleaned and put all new stuff back in the tank, it sat for about 3
> weeks with nothing in it except gravel and plants. After we introduced
> the
> fish, the tank cycled, then about a month later, the algae came back. The
> PH, hardness, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia all came back normal, so we
> have no idea what causes the algae to bloom. I think we're going to try a
> UV sterilizer next and see if that clears up the situation.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 9:26 PM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] algae
>
>
> How long have you been keeping fish? Do you understand "The Nitrogen
> Cycle"?
>
> Tell us more about your tank, fish, stocking and filtration.
>
> When you say you "started the tank over again", does that mean you broke
> down and cleaned everything? If so, you are now in the middle of cycling
> all over again. You need to test your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH
> and post your numbers so we can see what is going on. It's not good to
> cycle a tank with fish as the high nitrogen levels will harm the fish and
> will also cause algae blooms if the tank is getting too much light.
>
> If you already know about this, forgive the reply but you never gave much
> info in your initial post.
>
> In the mean time, cut back your feedings, vacuum your gravel with each 25%
> PWC (partial water change) and do daily 25% PWC's until things are settled
> down with algae growth.
>
> I don't like doing 50% PWC's as it can change the water chemistry too much
> too fast and cause shock issues to the fish. If you feel you need to
> change
> 50% a week, do it twice weekly with 25% each time. It will be better for
> your fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sue
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 7:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] algae
>
> we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater green.
> We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish to the tank
> again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned totally green
> again.
> Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial water changes of about 50%
> and
> still no luck.
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007
> 10:47 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
> 11:22 AM
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22784 From: sue Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: algae
Thanks, I'm sure we will leave it on at least a couple of months, if not
indefinitely, I'm so tired of a "green" tank and just a couple of fish, that
some nice clear water will be wonderful.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 1:03 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] algae


> The UV will work allmost instantly, but you have to leave it on for a few
> months, or it will come right back.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "sue" <seagap52@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2007 11:46 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] algae
>
>
>> There is no direct sunlight hitting the tank, we made sure of that. We
>> don't
>> over feed. the get a small pinch 2 times a day. we have about 6 fish, 1
>> gourami, 1 glow light, 3 rosy barbs and 2 other fish..(not sure what they
>> are). This is in a 29 gal tank. we put the fish in a smaller tank and
>> totally cleaned and put all new stuff back in the tank, it sat for about
>> 3
>> weeks with nothing in it except gravel and plants. After we introduced
>> the
>> fish, the tank cycled, then about a month later, the algae came back.
>> The
>> PH, hardness, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia all came back normal, so we
>> have no idea what causes the algae to bloom. I think we're going to try
>> a
>> UV sterilizer next and see if that clears up the situation.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
>> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 9:26 PM
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] algae
>>
>>
>> How long have you been keeping fish? Do you understand "The Nitrogen
>> Cycle"?
>>
>> Tell us more about your tank, fish, stocking and filtration.
>>
>> When you say you "started the tank over again", does that mean you broke
>> down and cleaned everything? If so, you are now in the middle of cycling
>> all over again. You need to test your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH
>> and post your numbers so we can see what is going on. It's not good to
>> cycle a tank with fish as the high nitrogen levels will harm the fish and
>> will also cause algae blooms if the tank is getting too much light.
>>
>> If you already know about this, forgive the reply but you never gave much
>> info in your initial post.
>>
>> In the mean time, cut back your feedings, vacuum your gravel with each
>> 25%
>> PWC (partial water change) and do daily 25% PWC's until things are
>> settled
>> down with algae growth.
>>
>> I don't like doing 50% PWC's as it can change the water chemistry too
>> much
>> too fast and cause shock issues to the fish. If you feel you need to
>> change
>> 50% a week, do it twice weekly with 25% each time. It will be better for
>> your fish.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder
>> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Sue
>> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 7:38 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] algae
>>
>> we ave a terrible time with the fine algae that just turns the ater
>> green.
>> We've started the tank over again, and after introducing fish to the tank
>> again, it took about 2-3 weeks and the water has turned totally green
>> again.
>> Any suggestions? We have done weekly partial water changes of about 50%
>> and
>> still no luck.
>>
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.0/819 - Release Date: 5/26/2007
>> 10:47 AM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
>> to
>> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>> SUBJECT
>> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
>> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
>> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
>> to
>> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
>> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
>> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.6/828 - Release Date: 6/1/2007
>> 11:22 AM
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22785 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
LOL. My first internet proposal (not from a Yahoo chatroom bot!) ;-)

Who needs Match.com, eHarmony, etc?

Heck, I might start up a match-making website and tell the guys the trick is
to post some bad information, followed up by a correction and then you'll
have the girls coming out the woodwork for you! LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Memrie
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami

A real man that can admit when he is wrong is rare indeed. Can I marry you
Lenny? LOL

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Ooops. I guess I was mistaken on the human input into this
species. So
> many of the "dwarf" varieties of fish are man-made variants of an
existing
> species and are created via selective breeding. I did some
Googling and it
> appears this species of pygmy gourami is not man-made. Sorry!
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/829 - Release Date: 6/2/2007 5:26
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22786 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Hi Steve,
Yes I should have been more specific. I'm aware it is common to
artificially cycle a tank; however, the user did not mention using
any additives and many fish stores can be very misleading to people
when they advise to let the tank run for awhile with no fish (this
really accomplishes nothing).
Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Kelly,
>
> I can not tell you how many tanks I've cycled without using any
fish at
> all. While there are other methods to achieve this, but my favorite
is
> just to add ammonia to the tank to read 5 ppm, and then maintain
that
> level with daily additions as needed until the whole lot is
utilized in
> one day with the result being 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and x nitrates.
> Then, animals can be added to the tank.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Friday, June 01, 2007 9:36 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
>
> Lynda,
>
> Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in the
> tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first bit,
> but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process unless
> there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
several
> weeks in a freshwater.
>
> Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL don't
> feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
saltwater.
> There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the fish
> are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
fish
> stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because people
> kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and go
> freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that for
a
> year or so, then switch to saltwater.
>
> Kelly
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Bart,
> > Thank you for the information. It will be a fish only tank for
> now. I
> > think I'd better see if I can keep fish alive before I pour more
> money
> > into this venture :). Originally, I was going to buy my husband
a
> 30
> > gallon fresh water tank for our anniversary and I made the
mistake
> of
> > taking him shopping with me. We came home with the 90 gallon and
he
> > decided to make it a saltwater tank. The saltwater fish are much
> more
> > colorful than freshwater fish, but I had always heard that
> saltwater
> > fish are hard to keep alive. Now after more reading, it seems if
> you
> > just test the water often and stay on top of things, it isn't
that
> > difficult. We did our first water test and all the levels look
> good so
> > far.
> >
> > Thanks again
> > Lynda
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22787 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Oh! I thought you were a complete beginner to the whole fish thing.
Well in that case, you probably should be fine. And it sure sounds
like you're doing your research. Keep it up!

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, Kelly
> Thanks for your advice. Actually, I agree. We bought some
> sacrificial damsels to rush up the cycling process right after my
> last post (about a week). We lost one right away (maybe I injured
> him getting him home and in the tank) but the other 11 are doing
very
> well. I have had freshwater tanks in the past and was successful
> with them so I'm not a total beginner - just a beginner keeping
> saltwater tanks. I tested the water yesterday and it is changing
but
> that is what we expected. So far I don't regret the decision to go
> saltwater but check back with me next week :). We really are
> enjoying watching our colorful critters.
>
> Lynda
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
> <kelly_anne333@> wrote:
> >
> > Lynda,
> >
> > Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in
the
> > tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first
bit,
> > but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process
unless
> > there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> > actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
> several
> > weeks in a freshwater.
> >
> > Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> > because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> > keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL
don't
> > feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
> saltwater.
> > There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the
fish
> > are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
> fish
> > stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because
people
> > kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and
go
> > freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that
for
> a
> > year or so, then switch to saltwater.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22788 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Bitterlings and Pingi Logsucker
Hi gang:

We recently added a trio of Bitterlings to our outdoor container water garden that holds a 100 gallons. Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these guys.

Also aftter doing some research found the Pingi Logsucker are an algae eater that has been sold as a pond fish and was looking into them. I have not bought the Pingi just doing research. He looks ALOT like an an older chinese algae eater which are notorious for attaching themselves to the slime coat of fish..

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22789 From: Memrie Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
-Well, if you change your mind... :)

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> LOL. My first internet proposal (not from a Yahoo chatroom
bot!) ;-)
>
> Who needs Match.com, eHarmony, etc?
>
> Heck, I might start up a match-making website and tell the guys the
trick is
> to post some bad information, followed up by a correction and then
you'll
> have the girls coming out the woodwork for you! LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Memrie
> Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:15 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: sparkling/pygmy gourami
>
> A real man that can admit when he is wrong is rare indeed. Can I
marry you
> Lenny? LOL
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Ooops. I guess I was mistaken on the human input into this
> species. So
> > many of the "dwarf" varieties of fish are man-made variants of an
> existing
> > species and are created via selective breeding. I did some
> Googling and it
> > appears this species of pygmy gourami is not man-made. Sorry!
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/829 - Release Date:
6/2/2007 5:26
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22790 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/3/2007
Subject: Re: Bitterlings and Pingi Logsucker
I took a quick look around the web and the fish you mention _Garra pingi
pingi_ appears to be an omnivore, so it may not do a lot in the algae
cleaning department. It does not seem to have too much in common with
_Gyrinocheilus aymonieri_, the Chinese algae eater. There appears to be
a large number of _Garra_ spp. It is probably one of those fish you are
going to need to try to determine its suitability, unless someone else
here has experience with them here.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Rattie
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 7:49 PM
To: YG Aquatic Life
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bitterlings and Pingi Logsucker

Hi gang:

We recently added a trio of Bitterlings to our outdoor container water
garden that holds a 100 gallons. Just wondering if anyone has had any
experience with these guys.

Also aftter doing some research found the Pingi Logsucker are an algae
eater that has been sold as a pond fish and was looking into them. I
have not bought the Pingi just doing research. He looks ALOT like an an
older chinese algae eater which are notorious for attaching themselves
to the slime coat of fish..
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22791 From: Just ask me Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Shark Cartilage Shows No Benefit As A Therapeutic Agent For Lung Ca
In the first scientific study of its kind, shark cartilage extract,
AE-941 or Neovastat, has shown no benefit as a therapeutic agent when
combined with chemotherapy and radiation for patients with advanced
non-small cell lung cancer, according to researchers at The University
of Texas M। D. Anderson Cancer Center. Charles Lu, M.D., associate
professor in M. D. Anderson's Department of Thoracic/Head and Neck
Medical Oncology, presented the study today (June 2) at the 43rd annual
meeting of the American Society of Clinical Oncology (ASCO).
The absence of blood vessels in cartilage as well as preclinical studies
analyzing cartilage extracts have supported the hypothesis that
cartilage contains inhibitors of angiogenesis. Also, shark cartilage has
long intrigued the public due to the belief that the incidence of cancer
in this cartilaginous fish is very rare. Early Phase I and II studies in
lung and renal cancers suggested some benefit to patients when AE-941
was given at higher doses, says Lu.
Read more at Marine animal news <http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22792 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Kelly (and everyone else),
I am going to test the water late today and I will post the results and
ask for advice. Everything looks good now but I know that can change
quickly! I can do my own research, but it is reassuring to have the
benefit of all of your experience :)

Lynda


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333" <kelly_anne333@...>
wrote:
>
> Oh! I thought you were a complete beginner to the whole fish thing.
> Well in that case, you probably should be fine. And it sure sounds
> like you're doing your research. Keep it up!
>
> Kelly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22793 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: algae
I buy them off E-bay.

Look at the Jebo brand very inexpensive.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22794 From: Jessica Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish? Mine did
Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the lionfish! I
knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22795 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
More than likely the fish died and the crab started eating it after the fact.


----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...


Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish? Mine did
Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the lionfish! I
knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22796 From: Jessica Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
Nope. He was fine just that morning. Nothing wrong at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> More than likely the fish died and the crab started eating it
after the fact.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:47 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
>
>
> Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish? Mine
did
> Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the lionfish!
I
> knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22797 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
That doesn't mean it couldn't have died between then and when you saw the crab eating it.

Did you actually see the crab attack and kill the lionfish?

----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...


Nope. He was fine just that morning. Nothing wrong at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> More than likely the fish died and the crab started eating it
after the fact.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:47 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
>
>
> Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish? Mine
did
> Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the lionfish!
I
> knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22798 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
I agree with Sean, something was wrong with the lion fish, or the crab would not eat it. It was eather sick or dead. Hermit crabs dont attack healty fish, but will scavenge on anything.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Sean C. Figueroa
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:05 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...


That doesn't mean it couldn't have died between then and when you saw the crab eating it.

Did you actually see the crab attack and kill the lionfish?

----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...

Nope. He was fine just that morning. Nothing wrong at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> More than likely the fish died and the crab started eating it
after the fact.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:47 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
>
>
> Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish? Mine
did
> Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the lionfish!
I
> knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007 12:47 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22799 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Algae All of The Sudden
I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal limits.
The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the sides
of the tank. Is this algea or something else?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22800 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/4/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
If your tank is a new glass tank or you have added some new decorations or
certain substrates, your silicates level could be high and you are getting
diatoms (sometimes called brown algae). They should brush off of any plants
or ornaments/glass, etc. and then you can vacuum them up with your regular
PWC and gravel vacuum. If it's not a silicate issue, then give us more
information about your tank and set up. Include the actual test results for
ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH, GH, temp. What is your lighting
schedule and stocking levels? (Numbers of fish and sizes).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae All of The Sudden

I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal limits.
The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the sides of
the tank. Is this algea or something else?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date: 6/3/2007
12:47 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22801 From: Just ask me Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Birth of Baby Beluga whale video clip
Birth of a baby Beluga Whale in captivity. A rare sight indeed! view
video clip at Videos of blue waters
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22802 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: couple questions
I have a couple questions. The first question is what would make zebra
danios aggressive. I have had these 3 for quite some time and here
lately they have turned aggressive. I seen them attack and kill a full
grown male guppy. Right now they are in a divided 10 gallon. I have
tested the water and the readings are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate
10. Temp is a steady 79. The second question is if I were to put my
live plants in little flower pots would uprooting my swords and such
do alot of damage to the roots. I would like to plant them in a rich
fertilizer and didn't want to change the gravel out for sand or
something like that.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22803 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
Why buy fish just for them to die? Why don't you just get a
cocktail shrimp from the grocery store and let it sit at the bottom
of your tank? It will do the same thing and nothing has to die.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, Kelly
> Thanks for your advice. Actually, I agree. We bought some
> sacrificial damsels to rush up the cycling process right after my
> last post (about a week). We lost one right away (maybe I injured
> him getting him home and in the tank) but the other 11 are doing
very
> well. I have had freshwater tanks in the past and was successful
> with them so I'm not a total beginner - just a beginner keeping
> saltwater tanks. I tested the water yesterday and it is changing
but
> that is what we expected. So far I don't regret the decision to
go
> saltwater but check back with me next week :). We really are
> enjoying watching our colorful critters.
>
> Lynda
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
> <kelly_anne333@> wrote:
> >
> > Lynda,
> >
> > Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in
the
> > tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first
bit,
> > but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process
unless
> > there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> > actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
> several
> > weeks in a freshwater.
> >
> > Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> > because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> > keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL
don't
> > feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
> saltwater.
> > There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the
fish
> > are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
> fish
> > stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because
people
> > kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and
go
> > freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that
for
> a
> > year or so, then switch to saltwater.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22804 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
No, I didn't see the crab attack and eat the lionfish, but I did see
the crab attack one of my clowns in the tank. He wouldn't stop
chasing it around the tank and trying to grab it, so I kind of
barracaded the crab in a corner of the tank so it would leave it
alone. Kind of like a time out. What I think happend was I took
the rock that the lionfish layed on out of the tank. He started
laying on the sand where the rock was. He liked to relax on the
rock and kind of hang there. I think he was hanging out on the sand
and the crab just went for it. He was a mean little thing.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> I agree with Sean, something was wrong with the lion fish, or the
crab would not eat it. It was eather sick or dead. Hermit crabs dont
attack healty fish, but will scavenge on anything.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sean C. Figueroa
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:05 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard
of...
>
>
> That doesn't mean it couldn't have died between then and when
you saw the crab eating it.
>
> Did you actually see the crab attack and kill the lionfish?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 1:45 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
>
> Nope. He was fine just that morning. Nothing wrong at all.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
> <scfigueroa@> wrote:
> >
> > More than likely the fish died and the crab started eating it
> after the fact.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Jessica
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 10:47 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
> >
> >
> > Has anybody ever heard of a hermit crab eating a lionfish?
Mine
> did
> > Saturday! We come home and we find the crab eating the
lionfish!
> I
> > knew they were aggresive predetors, but that's crazy!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date:
6/3/2007 12:47 PM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22805 From: crawmerk@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
In a message dated 6/5/2007 9:16:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jdecorse25@... writes:

No, I didn't see the crab attack and eat the lionfish, but I did see
the crab attack one of my clowns in the tank. He wouldn't stop
chasing it around the tank and trying to grab it, so I kind of
barracaded the crab in a corner of the tank so it would leave it
alone. Kind of like a time out. What I think happend was I took
the rock that the lionfish layed on out of the tank. He started
laying on the sand where the rock was. He liked to relax on the
rock and kind of hang there. I think he was hanging out on the sand
and the crab just went for it. He was a mean little thing.




Ummm, this doesn't sound like a typical reef hermit, it sounds like an
incredibly predatory crab. What kind (species) is it?

KC



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22806 From: Sue Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: salt water tank
I have a 10 gallon tank that we used when we cleaned out our big
freshwater tank. Now I was wanting to make a saltwater reef tank out
of it. What kind of equipment do I need to start a tank like this
up? I wasn't planning to have any fish, maybe just coral and sea
anenomes...something like this. thanks in advance, sue
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22807 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: WTF!!! has anybody ever heard of...
No clue, we got him from out LFS. It was just labeled hermit crab
and they called him big poppa. I saw photos online and the closest
thing that I could find that looked like him was a strawberry hermit
crab.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, crawmerk@... wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 6/5/2007 9:16:34 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> jdecorse25@... writes:
>
> No, I didn't see the crab attack and eat the lionfish, but I did
see
> the crab attack one of my clowns in the tank. He wouldn't stop
> chasing it around the tank and trying to grab it, so I kind of
> barracaded the crab in a corner of the tank so it would leave it
> alone. Kind of like a time out. What I think happend was I took
> the rock that the lionfish layed on out of the tank. He started
> laying on the sand where the rock was. He liked to relax on the
> rock and kind of hang there. I think he was hanging out on the
sand
> and the crab just went for it. He was a mean little thing.
>
>
>
>
> Ummm, this doesn't sound like a typical reef hermit, it sounds
like an
> incredibly predatory crab. What kind (species) is it?
>
> KC
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22808 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Hi Everyone,

I'm going to post this on all the groups I belong to so that everyone
doesn't freak out the way my husband and I did.

On Saturday night we lost power during the big "RAIN STORM" in
Melbourne. Supposedly lightning his a transformer, started a fire and
we lost power for hours. We kept calling and they told us it would be
up "SOON" that they were working on it. Needless to say at 5 A.M we
dug out the generator and got it up and running. Power never came
back on until after 7:45 am. Thank goodness we had the generator and
it back fed the whole house so that we had complete power.

To make a longer story shorter, we never lost a single fish or eel.
We have 3 freshwater aquariums and a 55 gallon saltwater and never
had a problem... I was totally freaking cause I thought for sure we
were going to lose everything in all the tanks. Obviously, we would
have hooked up the generator sooner, but they kept saying SOON...
What a nightmare. I can't imagine what people do without generators.
I'm just curious if anyone knows how long fish and eels can live
without power? Does anyone really know?

Just thought I'd share that bit of good news with everyone... Happy
ending thank goodness.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: couple questions
You already answered your question. You only have "3". ZD's are schooling
fish and should be in a group of 6-10 which then makes them more of a social
group. Also, a 10G is not really big enough for ZD's as they are very
active fish and need lots of swimming room. I think a 20G long tank is the
recommended minimum tank size. Read more about them here:
http://fish.mongabay.com/danios.htm

Any time you fool with plants and their root systems, it can shock the
plants but most recover without a major problem. I use clay pots in my
goldfish tank as a way to anchor plants since I only keep about 1/2" of
gravel on the bottom since deep gravel holds too much detritus in a goldfish
tank (or any other big messy fish). The 2" or 3" clay plant pots work
great. Some people even use aquarium safe silicone and cover the exterior
of the pots with their gravel to make it blend in better. Just coat the pot
with silicone and roll it around in the gravel and let it cure. Then you
can fill the pots with a better plant substrate.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] couple questions

I have a couple questions. The first question is what would make zebra
danios aggressive. I have had these 3 for quite some time and here lately
they have turned aggressive. I seen them attack and kill a full grown male
guppy. Right now they are in a divided 10 gallon. I have tested the water
and the readings are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10. Temp is a steady 79.
The second question is if I were to put my live plants in little flower pots
would uprooting my swords and such do alot of damage to the roots. I would
like to plant them in a rich fertilizer and didn't want to change the gravel
out for sand or something like that.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date: 6/4/2007 6:43
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22810 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
don't know how long they can last, but there is a battery operated pump on the market......it lasts as long as you have batteries.......and they aren't very expensive. Local pet stores carry them.


----- Original Message ----
From: Laurie <lilpeach911@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2007 11:57:17 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums

Hi Everyone,

I'm going to post this on all the groups I belong to so that everyone
doesn't freak out the way my husband and I did.

On Saturday night we lost power during the big "RAIN STORM" in
Melbourne. Supposedly lightning his a transformer, started a fire and
we lost power for hours. We kept calling and they told us it would be
up "SOON" that they were working on it. Needless to say at 5 A.M we
dug out the generator and got it up and running. Power never came
back on until after 7:45 am. Thank goodness we had the generator and
it back fed the whole house so that we had complete power.

To make a longer story shorter, we never lost a single fish or eel.
We have 3 freshwater aquariums and a 55 gallon saltwater and never
had a problem... I was totally freaking cause I thought for sure we
were going to lose everything in all the tanks. Obviously, we would
have hooked up the generator sooner, but they kept saying SOON...
What a nightmare. I can't imagine what people do without generators.
I'm just curious if anyone knows how long fish and eels can live
without power? Does anyone really know?

Just thought I'd share that bit of good news with everyone... Happy
ending thank goodness.

Laurie






____________________________________________________________________________________
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.
http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22811 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Question about recommendations for FW tank
Now that my lionfish is gone, I'm going to downsize my tanks. I
currently have an empty 55 gallon SW tank, a 20gal tall SW tank and a
10 gallon FW tank. My 55 housed my lionfish, which we were finding
compatable tank mates for. My 20 gallon has fish in it, but we are
going to make the 55 gallon a community tank and switch the 20gal
inhabitants to the 55gal. The 10gal had feeders in it for the
lionfish so we're going to get rid of those and keep that tank as a
quarentine tank. What type of FW fish should we get for the 20 gal
once it's empty. I want something colorful. I'm so used to SW fish
now. All the FW fish at my LFS are all white and black tiny things,
nothing really interesting.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22812 From: Jessica Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: salt water tank
You need to have proper lighting and filtration. What you're planning
on doing is actually the hardest part. Once you master that, you're
set. Lighting might cost about $200, then filtration, you could do a
hang-on the back skimmer, or you could do a sump, then you want live
sand and live rock. Get the set up cycled, then you want to start
buying your corals and anenomes, the problem though with housing both
is that anenomes move around and they can sting the coral and kill it,
so you pretty much have to choose which one you want. You might get
lucky with an anenome that likes where it's at and stayes put, but
they like to move around.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sue" <seagap52@...> wrote:
>
> I have a 10 gallon tank that we used when we cleaned out our big
> freshwater tank. Now I was wanting to make a saltwater reef tank
out
> of it. What kind of equipment do I need to start a tank like this
> up? I wasn't planning to have any fish, maybe just coral and sea
> anenomes...something like this. thanks in advance, sue
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22813 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
I agree, you are enjoying them, but they are sacrificial?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 6:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium



Why buy fish just for them to die? Why don't you just get a
cocktail shrimp from the grocery store and let it sit at the bottom
of your tank? It will do the same thing and nothing has to die.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, Kelly
> Thanks for your advice. Actually, I agree. We bought some
> sacrificial damsels to rush up the cycling process right after my
> last post (about a week). We lost one right away (maybe I injured
> him getting him home and in the tank) but the other 11 are doing
very
> well. I have had freshwater tanks in the past and was successful
> with them so I'm not a total beginner - just a beginner keeping
> saltwater tanks. I tested the water yesterday and it is changing
but
> that is what we expected. So far I don't regret the decision to
go
> saltwater but check back with me next week :). We really are
> enjoying watching our colorful critters.
>
> Lynda
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
> <kelly_anne333@> wrote:
> >
> > Lynda,
> >
> > Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in
the
> > tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first
bit,
> > but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process
unless
> > there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> > actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
> several
> > weeks in a freshwater.
> >
> > Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> > because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> > keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL
don't
> > feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
> saltwater.
> > There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the
fish
> > are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
> fish
> > stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because
people
> > kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and
go
> > freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that
for
> a
> > year or so, then switch to saltwater.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22814 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: couple questions
Thank you Lenny. The 3 zebras were in my 55 gallon with other danios
(blue longfin danios)it was only the 3 zebras that went psycho. lol
Then I removed them and placed them in my 10 gallon after I divided
the tank. The other side has pure endlers and endler fry.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You already answered your question. You only have "3". ZD's are
schooling
> fish and should be in a group of 6-10 which then makes them more
of a social
> group. Also, a 10G is not really big enough for ZD's as they are
very
> active fish and need lots of swimming room. I think a 20G long
tank is the
> recommended minimum tank size. Read more about them here:
> http://fish.mongabay.com/danios.htm
>
> Any time you fool with plants and their root systems, it can shock
the
> plants but most recover without a major problem. I use clay pots
in my
> goldfish tank as a way to anchor plants since I only keep about
1/2" of
> gravel on the bottom since deep gravel holds too much detritus in
a goldfish
> tank (or any other big messy fish). The 2" or 3" clay plant pots
work
> great. Some people even use aquarium safe silicone and cover the
exterior
> of the pots with their gravel to make it blend in better. Just
coat the pot
> with silicone and roll it around in the gravel and let it cure.
Then you
> can fill the pots with a better plant substrate.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of friendtoallfish
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 7:15 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] couple questions
>
> I have a couple questions. The first question is what would make
zebra
> danios aggressive. I have had these 3 for quite some time and here
lately
> they have turned aggressive. I seen them attack and kill a full
grown male
> guppy. Right now they are in a divided 10 gallon. I have tested
the water
> and the readings are ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10. Temp is a
steady 79.
> The second question is if I were to put my live plants in little
flower pots
> would uprooting my swords and such do alot of damage to the roots.
I would
> like to plant them in a rich fertilizer and didn't want to change
the gravel
> out for sand or something like that.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date:
6/4/2007 6:43
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22815 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Update on power loss in aquariums
I don't know what has happened, but all my tanks are showing way out of
wack reading today... It looks like I'm going to have to do some major
water changes in the 3 freshwater tanks. Very high nitrates and
nitrites. And it's acidic too. NOT GOOD...


I guess I spoke to soon when I said all went well. (Biting my tongue
now) I'll keep ya'll posted.

Any suggestions would surely be welcome.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22816 From: land_shapes Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....

I've been keeping pond fish (goldfish and few Koi) for ten years, in
those years I get to see towards the end of the season (am in the UK)
a few fry but they never seem to make it through the winter. So my
plan was to try and raise them in a tank and after getting to a safe
size (safe as in not seen as 'food' by the others) return them back to
the pond probably the following spring.

I did some reading and started off the tank (30x40x60cm) a few weeks
ago by filling with some of the pondwater (crystal clear) and left it
to settle. A week or so later we had a spawning frenzy in the pond, I
collected some clumps of blanket weed which seemed to be full of eggs
and added it to the tank. About 10 days later I noticed little fish
clinging to the side of the tank all pointing upwards. I read that
these would need microscopic size food and as my pond water seemed a
bit sterile looking I found a local source in a sheep trough. Lots of
bug things swimming around in it so I added a couple of pints of this
to the tank.

So far so good very soon the fry were swimming around and with a
strong magnifying glass I can make out they are eating small 'dots' in
the water. (In fact watching the life with a eyeglass is very
rewarding in itself, the Hydra clinging to the sides are particularly
easy to observe). ...back to the plot, Shortly after they began
swimming I added a small airstone which just gently bubbles through
daylight hours along with the tank light. After a week I siphoned off
a bucket of water and replaced it with pond water and also added some
more 'bug water'.

Now my problem.... I estimated I had a couple of hundred fry hatch,
but they are decreasing on a daily basis I reckon I maybe have a
quarter of what I started with left. Is I this decline in numbers
usual? am I doing something wrong? what could I do to correct things?

thanks

Bob
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Update on power loss in aquariums
I was thinking this but since you were reporting good news, I didn't want to
jinx you. If your filter systems are without power for even a few hours,
the nitrifying bacteria and other waste producing bacteria start to die off
and the water in the reservoirs starts to become "less than desirable" after
only an hour without power. After four hours, it can start to become toxic.
These bacteria needs lots of O2 to live.

Do a series of 25% PWC's, one every two hours to return the fish back to
normal clean water. Don't do a large PWC as that could shock your fish with
a drastic change in water chemistry. Test your ammonia, nitrites in the
coming days and weeks since you are experiencing a mini-cycle. Your low pH
is likely due to high CO2 levels from the decaying detritus. The PWC's will
slowly bring this back to normal also.

You should always unplug any filter units when the power fails and take the
media out and put things like bio-wheels floating in a tank. Sponges can be
"cleaned" in some dechlored water to remove the majority of the detritus and
then they can be floated in the tank also.... unless you are going to use
manual filtration methods as I describe below.

You should still run battery operated air stones (like used by fishermen in
the live bait wells on boats or buckets). If you don't have them, then you
can manually pour water through your filter systems to keep the water from
becoming stagnant in the filters. If you choose the manual method, you can
leave the filter media in the reservoirs.

This is what I did for 15 days of no power and five weeks of no drinkable
water following Hurricane Katrina back in 2005. EVER HOUR except when I was
sleeping (which was only around 4 hours a night since it was so dang hot and
humid), I would pour 10 32 oz. cups of tank water through the HOB on my 65G.
I would also pour 10 32 oz. cups of water through the canister filter. I
have a Rena Filstar Canister and there is a black cap that can be unscrewed
on the top of the intake/suction line and a small funnel can be screwed in
so that water poured into the funnel goes down into the canister and returns
like normal. This is used to prime the canister when it first gets set up
or if it ever loses it's prime during maintenance / cleaning. On my smaller
tanks, with HOB's I would do the same thing with lesser amounts of water
volume depending on the size of the tank. This solved two problems. This
manual "filtration" kept my biological filter media alive and kept my tanks
aerated enough since I keep my HOB's raised up high by putting dowels
between the HOB and the tank so the waterfall always creates a splash. I
know some people do not like this splash noise but it's a huge help in
keeping the water aerated and causes more surface agitation to allow for
proper gas exchange. I found that HOB's are much easier to pour water
through manually, compared to canisters. BTW... I did not lose a single
fish during the 15 days of no power and five weeks of no drinkable water in
any of my three tanks. About a week after my first PWC, I did lose my two
apple snails but I think they starved to death since I was doing very
limited feeding of all of my fish during this five week ordeal so maybe they
weren't getting enough to eat. I did start feeding everyone better after I
did the PWC so I'm not sure why the snails died.. but I know that is one
thing that will kill a snail quick.. lack of food. My plan worked for my
fish and tanks and I didn't even have a mini-cycle during the entire ordeal.
One other think I forgot so far... I also had a computer UPS (battery back
up) that I would charge up every couple of days when a friend with a car and
power inverter would come by (My own car was flooded by the flood waters)
and I would run the filters on this batter backup for about 5 minutes each
every night before I went to bed. Then I would wake up in a couple of hours
and do it again. I've been meaning to do a blog about this process but
haven't gotten around to it. Maybe this summary will prompt me to finally
do a more detailed blog article. Check my blog (in sig) for this new
"article" in the next day or so.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Update on power loss in aquariums

I don't know what has happened, but all my tanks are showing way out of wack
reading today... It looks like I'm going to have to do some major water
changes in the 3 freshwater tanks. Very high nitrates and nitrites. And it's
acidic too. NOT GOOD...

I guess I spoke to soon when I said all went well. (Biting my tongue
now) I'll keep ya'll posted.

Any suggestions would surely be welcome.

Laurie



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22818 From: pinkviolin1346 Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: (no subject)
Hey,

I'm wanting to get a marine fish tank and I'm not sure where I
should get one and what size I should get. Can anyone tell me and help
me with this? I've been reading lots of books on marine fish and all of
that I just need info from people. An I'm not sure what fish are the
best, I just need help.

Thanks,
Sydney
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22819 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Laurie,
Glad your fish all survived. 

Remember that if you lose power again that you can increase the oxygen exchange in the tank by occasionally splashing the surface of the water, and moving the tank water around with your hand and arm for circulation.

An inexpensive D cell battery operated air pump with an air stone can do the same thing.  We used the battery air pumps to keep our fish alive on a collecting trip I did last year.  This way you probably do not have to fire up the generator.  Most of my tanks are air driven sponge filters.  If the power should go out I can use a battery air pump to keep the filtration going.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Laurie <lilpeach911@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 8:57 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums







Hi Everyone,

I'm going to post this on all the groups I belong to so that everyone
doesn't freak out the way my husband and I did.

On Saturday night we lost power during the big "RAIN STORM" in
Melbourne. Supposedly lightning his a transformer, started a fire and
we lost power for hours. We kept calling and they told us it would be
up "SOON" that they were working on it. Needless to say at 5 A.M we
dug out the generator and got it up and running. Power never came
back on until after 7:45 am. Thank goodness we had the generator and
it back fed the whole house so that we had complete power.

To make a longer story shorter, we never lost a single fish or eel.
We have 3 freshwater aquariums and a 55 gallon saltwater and never
had a problem... I was totally freaking cause I thought for sure we
were going to lose everything in all the tanks. Obviously, we would
have hooked up the generator sooner, but they kept saying SOON...
What a nightmare. I can't imagine what people do without generators.
I'm just curious if anyone knows how long fish and eels can live
without power? Does anyone really know?

Just thought I'd share that bit of good news with everyone... Happy
ending thank goodness.

Laurie





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22820 From: Laurie Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Powerhead for 55 gallon tank
What size powerhead should we buy for our 55 gallon saltwater tank. We
had put the powerhead 400 that we had in it, but it doesn't seem to be
powerful enough.. And I haven't been able to find the information
online anywhere as to what size to use per gallons of water.

Thanks for any information you can give me.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22821 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium
I cycle with Damsels all the time, with little or no loss of life. But I also keep my live stock for a minimum of 3 weeks before they can leave my shop. The Damsels are in good shape before they go out to cycle a tank, plus I jump start the bacteria with well cured LR and sand. My personal preference is to use green Chromis,because they don't get aggressive like most other damsels. Green Chromis are not as hardy as other Damsel fish, but are a good addition to any marine aquarium at any time.They don't get but 2" ,so don't mix with carnivores. I like using large shoals of them in large aquariums,very nice effect as they shoal and turn back and forth, they change colors according to how the light strikes them. Green, sliver, blue, and turquoise
Just my two-bits :}.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Beth Lucas
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 12:00 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium


I agree, you are enjoying them, but they are sacrificial?

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 6:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with new saltwater aquarium

Why buy fish just for them to die? Why don't you just get a
cocktail shrimp from the grocery store and let it sit at the bottom
of your tank? It will do the same thing and nothing has to die.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lynda Dodd" <lyndadodd@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, Kelly
> Thanks for your advice. Actually, I agree. We bought some
> sacrificial damsels to rush up the cycling process right after my
> last post (about a week). We lost one right away (maybe I injured
> him getting him home and in the tank) but the other 11 are doing
very
> well. I have had freshwater tanks in the past and was successful
> with them so I'm not a total beginner - just a beginner keeping
> saltwater tanks. I tested the water yesterday and it is changing
but
> that is what we expected. So far I don't regret the decision to
go
> saltwater but check back with me next week :). We really are
> enjoying watching our colorful critters.
>
> Lynda
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
> <kelly_anne333@> wrote:
> >
> > Lynda,
> >
> > Your levels will typically stay fine when there are no fish in
the
> > tank. Yes it is wise to let the tank run empty for the first
bit,
> > but it is impossible for it to go through the cycle process
unless
> > there is at least one fish in it. And a saltwater aquarium can
> > actually take MONTHS to go through it's cycling as opposed to
> several
> > weeks in a freshwater.
> >
> > Similar to you, my husband has always bugged me to go saltwater,
> > because of the brightly coloured attractive fish. I have been
> > keeping tropical freshwater fish for several years and STILL
don't
> > feel brave enough or feel like I have the time to manage
> saltwater.
> > There are many more variables with the saltwater tanks and the
fish
> > are very difficult to keep successfully. Hence this is why most
> fish
> > stores have NO guarentee on their saltwater fish... because
people
> > kill them!! Not for a beginner. You may want to reconsider and
go
> > freshwater tropical first. Then if you have success with that
for
> a
> > year or so, then switch to saltwater.
> >
> > Kelly
> >
> >
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date: 6/4/2007 6:43 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22822 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
My readings are all normal. Anomia is zero and all of th rest are
within normal limits. It is a fairly new glass tank, about 3 months.
I have a 20 gallon tropical fish tank with 20" of fish in it. I know
I cannot add anymore fish. I am going to clean it and do and water
change tonight so I will see what happens then.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> If your tank is a new glass tank or you have added some new
decorations or
> certain substrates, your silicates level could be high and you are
getting
> diatoms (sometimes called brown algae). They should brush off of
any plants
> or ornaments/glass, etc. and then you can vacuum them up with your
regular
> PWC and gravel vacuum. If it's not a silicate issue, then give us
more
> information about your tank and set up. Include the actual test
results for
> ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH, GH, temp. What is your
lighting
> schedule and stocking levels? (Numbers of fish and sizes).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae All of The Sudden
>
> I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal
limits.
> The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the
sides of
> the tank. Is this algea or something else?
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.7/830 - Release Date:
6/3/2007
> 12:47 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22823 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: (unknown)
Hmm?

Try www.wetwebmedia.com

I am told they have a good Marine section.


-----Original Message-----
From: pinkviolin1346 <pinkviolin1346@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 5 Jun 2007 2:36 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)







Hey,

I'm wanting to get a marine fish tank and I'm not sure where I
should get one and what size I should get. Can anyone tell me and help
me with this? I've been reading lots of books on marine fish and all of
that I just need info from people. An I'm not sure what fish are the
best, I just need help.

Thanks,
Sydney





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22824 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums
Glad you made it through just fine. As to your question of how long can
fish survive without power, there are a lot of variables that need to be
factored in. Fish will last longer in a healthy tank than in a tank that
is unhealthy. The more fish you have in a tank per gallon and per
surface area measurement, the less time you have before you need to do
something to provide power or to do something to provide at least some
circulation to the tank. Temperature will also have a bearing. The
species of fish you maintain will also have a bearing as some fish are
more sensitive to changes in water conditions than are others.

Without knowing the tank, it is difficult to even give an estimate, and
even then, it will only be an estimate. I'd even be hesitant to do that,
even after all the years I've been in this hobby. Bottom line is to do
what you can as soon as you can, and then cross your fingers. For
instance, where I am living now, it is the first time in a long time I
could not throw some wood into a stove and/or fireplace to help maintain
a warm temperature during the winter.

Just too many variables.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 11:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] OT- Lost power for hours in aquariums

Hi Everyone,

I'm going to post this on all the groups I belong to so that everyone
doesn't freak out the way my husband and I did.

On Saturday night we lost power during the big "RAIN STORM" in
Melbourne. Supposedly lightning his a transformer, started a fire and
we lost power for hours. We kept calling and they told us it would be
up "SOON" that they were working on it. Needless to say at 5 A.M we
dug out the generator and got it up and running. Power never came
back on until after 7:45 am. Thank goodness we had the generator and
it back fed the whole house so that we had complete power.

To make a longer story shorter, we never lost a single fish or eel.
We have 3 freshwater aquariums and a 55 gallon saltwater and never
had a problem... I was totally freaking cause I thought for sure we
were going to lose everything in all the tanks. Obviously, we would
have hooked up the generator sooner, but they kept saying SOON...
What a nightmare. I can't imagine what people do without generators.
I'm just curious if anyone knows how long fish and eels can live
without power? Does anyone really know?

Just thought I'd share that bit of good news with everyone... Happy
ending thank goodness.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22825 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/5/2007
Subject: Re: Marine Fish Tank
What country/state/city are you in?

http://www.GlassCages.com is a reasonably priced online tank retailer. They
also have deals on eBay under their eBay name, Twin Oaks, which is where I
found my 65G acrylic tank for $110.00 a few years ago. With shipping,
delivered to my door by FedEx Ground, it was only $135.00. They also sell
tanks at trade shows all over America so check out their website and trade
show schedule and you might get an even better bargain.

I can't help you with the fish choices since I'm a FW keeper.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkviolin1346
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 4:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] (unknown)

Hey,

I'm wanting to get a marine fish tank and I'm not sure where I should get
one and what size I should get. Can anyone tell me and help me with this?
I've been reading lots of books on marine fish and all of that I just need
info from people. An I'm not sure what fish are the best, I just need help.

Thanks,
Sydney


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date: 6/4/2007 6:43
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22826 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
Well, if it's brown, it is likely diatoms. Keep vacuuming them up with your
regular PWC's and they should quit growing in a month or so.

I'm concerned about your comment about "a 20 gallon tropical tank with 20"
of fish in it." This seems like you have gotten some of the same BAD
information that many beginner fishkeepers get trapped into believing. The
1" rule that is perpetuated by so many uninformed or misinformed people at
LFS, chain stores and even all over the net in some cases, simply does not
work for most tanks or fish. It can work in certain situations but they are
the exceptions, rather than the "rule".

Here is my blog article called "New rules (guidelines) to replace the 1" per
gallon fish killing rule".
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Hopefully, your 20" of fish are all fish that stay under 3" as full grown
adults and you counted their expected adult size and not their current
juvenile size.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 6:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae All of The Sudden

My readings are all normal. Anomia is zero and all of th rest are within
normal limits. It is a fairly new glass tank, about 3 months.
I have a 20 gallon tropical fish tank with 20" of fish in it. I know I
cannot add anymore fish. I am going to clean it and do and water change
tonight so I will see what happens then.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> If your tank is a new glass tank or you have added some new
decorations or
> certain substrates, your silicates level could be high and you are
getting
> diatoms (sometimes called brown algae). They should brush off of
any plants
> or ornaments/glass, etc. and then you can vacuum them up with your
regular
> PWC and gravel vacuum. If it's not a silicate issue, then give us
more
> information about your tank and set up. Include the actual test
results for
> ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH, GH, temp. What is your
lighting
> schedule and stocking levels? (Numbers of fish and sizes).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae All of The Sudden
>
> I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal
limits.
> The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the
sides of
> the tank. Is this algea or something else?
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date: 6/4/2007 6:43
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22827 From: hank voss Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....
> ========================
Hi Bob;
welcome to the group.You say you enjoy watching the Hydra.Well
thats your missing fry problem.Hydra will eat egglayer fry.Next time
make your own infuroria rather than collecting it outdoors.Just about
any plant materal will make it.Youll have better luck next time with
the home grown stuff.
Regards Hank



>
> So far so good very soon the fry were swimming around and with a
> strong magnifying glass I can make out they are eating small 'dots'
in
> the water. (In fact watching the life with a eyeglass is very
> rewarding in itself, the Hydra clinging to the sides are
particularly
> easy to observe). ...back to the plot, Shortly after they began
> swimming I added a small airstone which just gently bubbles through
> daylight hours along with the tank light. After a week I siphoned
off
> a bucket of water and replaced it with pond water and also added
some
> more 'bug water'.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22828 From: Laurie Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Feeding Saltwater Eels
Do we have any saltwater eel owners out there? If so, I was curious
what you are feeding them. We loved the idea of feeding them the small
feeder fish at the LFS, but thought about it. If we get them used to
live food they may start attacking our other fish in the tank. So we
have been feeding them the silverside.

Just curious if anyone suggests anything else.

Laurie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22829 From: Billy Rowe Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
All but one my fish, as full grown fish, are 3" or below. I have one
that will reach 4".


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Well, if it's brown, it is likely diatoms. Keep vacuuming them up
with your
> regular PWC's and they should quit growing in a month or so.
>
> I'm concerned about your comment about "a 20 gallon tropical tank
with 20"
> of fish in it." This seems like you have gotten some of the same
BAD
> information that many beginner fishkeepers get trapped into
believing. The
> 1" rule that is perpetuated by so many uninformed or misinformed
people at
> LFS, chain stores and even all over the net in some cases, simply
does not
> work for most tanks or fish. It can work in certain situations but
they are
> the exceptions, rather than the "rule".
>
> Here is my blog article called "New rules (guidelines) to replace
the 1" per
> gallon fish killing rule".
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Hopefully, your 20" of fish are all fish that stay under 3" as full
grown
> adults and you counted their expected adult size and not their
current
> juvenile size.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 6:47 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae All of The Sudden
>
> My readings are all normal. Anomia is zero and all of th rest are
within
> normal limits. It is a fairly new glass tank, about 3 months.
> I have a 20 gallon tropical fish tank with 20" of fish in it. I
know I
> cannot add anymore fish. I am going to clean it and do and water
change
> tonight so I will see what happens then.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > If your tank is a new glass tank or you have added some new
> decorations or
> > certain substrates, your silicates level could be high and you are
> getting
> > diatoms (sometimes called brown algae). They should brush off of
> any plants
> > or ornaments/glass, etc. and then you can vacuum them up with your
> regular
> > PWC and gravel vacuum. If it's not a silicate issue, then give us
> more
> > information about your tank and set up. Include the actual test
> results for
> > ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH, GH, temp. What is your
> lighting
> > schedule and stocking levels? (Numbers of fish and sizes).
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:32 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae All of The Sudden
> >
> > I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal
> limits.
> > The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the
> sides of
> > the tank. Is this algea or something else?
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date:
6/4/2007 6:43
> PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22830 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Algae All of The Sudden
That's good so the last thing is whether you are counting the 20" as their
anticipated adult size or their size now? What kind of fish do you have
and how many of each?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae All of The Sudden

All but one my fish, as full grown fish, are 3" or below. I have one that
will reach 4".

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Well, if it's brown, it is likely diatoms. Keep vacuuming them up
with your
> regular PWC's and they should quit growing in a month or so.
>
> I'm concerned about your comment about "a 20 gallon tropical tank
with 20"
> of fish in it." This seems like you have gotten some of the same
BAD
> information that many beginner fishkeepers get trapped into
believing. The
> 1" rule that is perpetuated by so many uninformed or misinformed
people at
> LFS, chain stores and even all over the net in some cases, simply
does not
> work for most tanks or fish. It can work in certain situations but
they are
> the exceptions, rather than the "rule".
>
> Here is my blog article called "New rules (guidelines) to replace
the 1" per
> gallon fish killing rule".
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
> <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to->
replace-1-per.
> html
>
> Hopefully, your 20" of fish are all fish that stay under 3" as full
grown
> adults and you counted their expected adult size and not their
current
> juvenile size.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 6:47 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae All of The Sudden
>
> My readings are all normal. Anomia is zero and all of th rest are
within
> normal limits. It is a fairly new glass tank, about 3 months.
> I have a 20 gallon tropical fish tank with 20" of fish in it. I
know I
> cannot add anymore fish. I am going to clean it and do and water
change
> tonight so I will see what happens then.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > If your tank is a new glass tank or you have added some new
> decorations or
> > certain substrates, your silicates level could be high and you are
> getting
> > diatoms (sometimes called brown algae). They should brush off of
> any plants
> > or ornaments/glass, etc. and then you can vacuum them up with your
> regular
> > PWC and gravel vacuum. If it's not a silicate issue, then give us
> more
> > information about your tank and set up. Include the actual test
> results for
> > ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH, GH, temp. What is your
> lighting
> > schedule and stocking levels? (Numbers of fish and sizes).
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Billy Rowe
> > Sent: Monday, June 04, 2007 4:32 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Algae All of The Sudden
> >
> > I suddenly have a algea problem. My levels are all in normal
> limits.
> > The water is clear but has ligh brown spots on the plants and the
> sides of
> > the tank. Is this algea or something else?
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/832 - Release Date:
6/4/2007 6:43
> PM
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/834 - Release Date: 6/5/2007 2:38
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22831 From: John Hawley Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Atlantis Fish Flake Food Voluntary Recall
Atlantis Fish Flake Food Voluntary Recall

06/06/2007 10:09 AM Atlantis Fish Flake Food Voluntary Recall
http://www.sergeants.com/atlantisinfo/index.asp
Concerned consumers can contact Sergeant's by phone at 866.740.4969
or via e-mail at atlantis info for more product information.
media contact: Jennifer Windrum 402-492-3220
Joel Adamson 402-938-7050
* Atlantis Fish Flake Food Voluntary Recall *

Sergeant's Pet Care Products, Inc. has announced it is voluntarily
removing ornamental fish food products from retail store shelves. A
portion of the production lots of Atlantis® Goldfish Flake Food and
Atlantis® Tropical Fish Flake Food have been found to contain the
contaminant, melamine. Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food and Atlantis
Tropical Fish Flake Food are products that are formulated specifically
for the feeding of ornamental fish, such as a goldfish and Neon tetra.
Atlantis fish food is not formulated for the feeding of fish intended
for human consumption. "At this time, it is not known if melamine
contaminated fish feed has any effect on ornamental fish," says Denise
Petty, Aquaculture Extension Veterinarian at the University of
Florida. "However, food fish at two commercial U.S. hatcheries were
fed melamine contaminated feeds and, after testing by the FDA, these
fish were determined to be negative for melamine and safe for human
consumption. It is unknown if melamine forms crystals in the kidneys
of fish," says Petty "Given the uncertain nature of the effect of
melamine, the high visibility of this ingredient at this time and
Sergeant's concern for the health and well-being of pets, we believe
that removal of the Atlantis product from store shelves is the right
thing to do," says Robert Scharf, president of Sergeant's Pet Care
Products, Inc. Testing by Sergeant's has confirmed the presence of
very low levels of melamine, approximately 20-80 parts per million
(ppm), in some lots of Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food and also in
Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food. Melamine is water-soluble, and fish
food is dispersed and diluted in the water of an aquarium. Therefore,
when used as directed, an average dose of fish food containing these
levels of melamine would result in contamination in a typical fish
tank at minute levels, under 10 parts per billion (ppb).
Sergeant's believes that these levels are so low that even if a pet
owner accidentally sprinkled an entire package of fish food into the
fish tank, the fish would be harmed by over-feeding than by melamine
contamination. Sergeant's has advised all national and international
distributors and retailers who currently carry Atlantis fish food
products to remove the products. Sergeant's is recommending consumers
either discard the product or return it to their retailer for a credit.
The affected Atlantis fish food products are the following:
10006 Atlantis® Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.88 oz.
10057 Atlantis® Tropical Fish Flake Food, 2.25 oz.
10154 Atlantis® Goldfish Flake Food, 0.75 oz.
10731 Atlantis® Goldfish Flake Food, 2.15 oz.
10847 Atlantis® Color Enhance Tropical Fish Flake Food,
0.88 oz.
10926 Atlantis® Betta Food, 1.2 oz.
88515 Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.42 oz.
88516 Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 0.42 oz.

Sergeant's representatives are currently conducting an investigation
of the manufacturing facility located in Taiwan to determine the
source of contamination. Sergeant's will resume shipping of Atlantis
fish food products following the completion of a thorough
investigation and documentation that product is contaminant-free.
Concerned consumers can contact Sergeant's by phone at 866.740.4969
or via e-mail at atlantis info for more product information.

John Hawley
cohost www.KoiCluboftheAir.org
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22832 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Maybe some of you can give me some additional suggestions or
ideas...Lenny?

I have a fancy goldfish that has a major sore in his side. He WAS
in a tank with a few other goldfish, and they are having no
problems. (And still aren't) We noticed this overnight, started on
May 15. We tested all levels, and everything was ok as normal..we
thought maybe? the pleco got ahold of him, its about the size of a
smaller pleco's mouth. (We did see the pleco go after one of them
one day but didn't get him?) We moved him to another tank and
started with melafix for 7 days, no luck. I tried a fungal med in
the tank, no change. I went to my local fish lady, ( a water garden
fish place selling high end koi) and bought a bottle of bacterial
treatment on May 27. She said to use it in the tank, and to daily
change the water and retreat it, and also to take out Moe (his name)
and rub the area with Betadine daily. I have done this daily
without fail. She said it would take a week or so to notice some
change and that the treatment might very well kill him. Well Moe is
still swimming, still eating, and still has a nasty hole.

Any suggestions? I don't mind putting the work or time in
(obviously) but I don't want him to suffer. HELP!!

Thanks,
Jennifer
Sorry to make this so long, just trying to give the details.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22833 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22834 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Well, that is definitely different!


----- Original Message ----
From: memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2007 10:32:51 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.

http://www.fishnflu sh.com/fnf- video.html






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22835 From: me Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
oh hehehe, I've seen that before. Its not mean, the fish aren't really inside the tank. If you look at the drawing on the right, there is an outside aquarium and an inside tank that flushes. It only appears like the fish are inside. They are actually in an independent fish aquarium that is as clean and sanitary as any other aquarium would be and has a filter and everything.

Weird, yes, that I agree.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


----- Original Message -----
From: memphisgirl39
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:32 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.


http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22836 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, me <betti@...> wrote:
>
> oh hehehe, I've seen that before. Its not mean, the fish aren't
really inside the tank. If you look at the drawing on the right,
there is an outside aquarium and an inside tank that flushes. It only
appears like the fish are inside. They are actually in an independent
fish aquarium that is as clean and sanitary as any other aquarium
would be and has a filter and everything.
>
> Weird, yes, that I agree.
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:32 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its mean.
>
>
> http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22837 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
I still think it is a bad idea to use fish as decorations, and only seem
them at that time (and they only see your behind!)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think
its mean.



To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
me <betti@...> wrote:
>
> oh hehehe, I've seen that before. Its not mean, the fish aren't
really inside the tank. If you look at the drawing on the right,
there is an outside aquarium and an inside tank that flushes. It only
appears like the fish are inside. They are actually in an independent
fish aquarium that is as clean and sanitary as any other aquarium
would be and has a filter and everything.
>
> Weird, yes, that I agree.
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:32 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its mean.
>
>
> http://www.fishnflu <http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html>
sh.com/fnf-video.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22838 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
It could take a while for it to heal. Just keep doing daily 25% PWC's (or
whatever the meds say) but if I was in your shoes, I'd do 25% PWC's anyhow
and just replace 25% of the meds. After you finish the new medication
treatment, go back to just fresh water with daily 25% PWC's for a week and
then look at other options. If you can get some medicated antibacterial
food, that would be good also. I even keep Jungle's brand of antibacterial
and antiparasitic foods on hand since they are inexpensive. I trash them
once a year if I didn't need them.

Don't give up on Melafix. Here is the article that Doc Johnson at
KoiVet.com said about Melafix.
http://www.koivet.com/html/articles/articles_results.php?article_id=104&cate
gory=13&search_term=Melafix so after a week of fresh clean water, you may
want to consider a 1-2 week treatment of Melafix. Remember when treating
with any water column based medicine, it's always best to do 2-3 25% PWC's
(2 hours apart) on the day you will start the meds. This way the meds can
go to work on the sick fish rather than any bacteria in the water column..
if any.

The next paragraph is a snip from TheGAB's treatment page... but I wouldn't
do this treatment until you have given the fish a weeks rest with clean
water to see how it's natural immune system kicks in. Note that these
instructions say to only clean the sore one time with HP or Iodine so I'm
not sure if the Betadine as a daily treatment was too much and could have
made things worse rather than better but the week of fresh water should
hopefully give it time to recover. I'm fortunate to not have had very many
health problems with my fish but when I have had problems, I treat for a
week and then give them a few days to a week off with just clean water
before trying something new. Most of my issues have been solved with
MelaFix and PimaFix.. and of course, clean water in the tanks!

-----------------------------------
Ulcers and Sores

Symptoms: Open sores that are red or have white centers.
Treatment: Clean the sore once with either 3% Hydrogen Peroxide or iodine
and apply triple antibiotic creme. Feed Medigold. Dip the fish in Tricide
Neo dip (sources: PondRx, PondDoc, Aquatic Eco-Systems, etc) or Neocide 3.
Because ulcers are often triggered by parasites it is good to check for
flukes and other parasites. If a microscope is not available give the fish a
short saltbath (0.6% - 6 teaspoons per gallons for 5 minutes) and raise the
salt-content in the tank water to 0.3 until the ulcer has healed. Also,
consider treating with praziquantel for flukes.
------------------------------------

Based on the treatment plan from TheGAB, you should probably try topical
treatment of some kind of antibiotic cream (made for us humans) like
Bacitracin, Triamycin, etc.

Now onto your pleco...

What kind of pleco? How big? How old? It may be time to rehome him or at
least move him to a bigger tank with tropical fish that are not wide bodied
slow swimming fish.

I recently "traded in" my pleco that I saved/adopted back in 2005 as he was
getting too big for my goldfish tank. He never attacked my goldfish but
since pleco's are nocturnal and omnivores, they have been known to do what
nature tells them to do. I think mine was just a lumbering giant who
disturbed my sleeping goldfish too much since he had gotten so big and
travels so much around my 65G tank. My goldfish tank was only supposed to
be a temporary home as I was going to set up a 125-150G tropical tank back
in 2005 but Hurricane Katrina changed all of my plans. In May, I finally
moved out of my condo so I would renovate the ceiling in it so I figured it
was a good time to find Mr. Pleco a new home. My LFS gave me a $25.00 store
credit since they sell the BIG ones (mine was 10" and 4 years old) for
$49.99. One of the employees bought mine the next day so hopefully Mr.
Pleco is doing well in a BIG tank with faster fish that won't have to worry
about his appetite.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 9:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore

Maybe some of you can give me some additional suggestions or ideas...Lenny?

I have a fancy goldfish that has a major sore in his side. He WAS in a tank
with a few other goldfish, and they are having no problems. (And still
aren't) We noticed this overnight, started on May 15. We tested all levels,
and everything was ok as normal..we thought maybe? the pleco got ahold of
him, its about the size of a smaller pleco's mouth. (We did see the pleco go
after one of them one day but didn't get him?) We moved him to another tank
and started with melafix for 7 days, no luck. I tried a fungal med in the
tank, no change. I went to my local fish lady, ( a water garden fish place
selling high end koi) and bought a bottle of bacterial treatment on May 27.
She said to use it in the tank, and to daily change the water and retreat
it, and also to take out Moe (his name) and rub the area with Betadine
daily. I have done this daily without fail. She said it would take a week or
so to notice some change and that the treatment might very well kill him.
Well Moe is still swimming, still eating, and still has a nasty hole.

Any suggestions? I don't mind putting the work or time in
(obviously) but I don't want him to suffer. HELP!!

Thanks,
Jennifer
Sorry to make this so long, just trying to give the details.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.9/834 - Release Date: 6/5/2007 2:38
PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22839 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Whew, lots of info to absorb. So you think I need to give him a week or so
with just fresh water and nothing else?

I have Neosporin, will that work?

Is it a good sign that after all the time (May 15) he is still swimming and
eating, or are we still not out of the clear?

Thanks!!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22840 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
How is it mean?

It has also been on the market for years.

In a message dated 6/6/2007 7:35:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dctn_2005@... writes:

_http://www.fishnfluhttp://www.http://www_
(http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html)





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22841 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/6/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank weekly. If it
"scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.

In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dctn_2005@... writes:




To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.









************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22842 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
While you are medicating your fish, you should remove any carbon you may
have in the water path, as it could very well be removing the medication
from the water.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 2:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore


Whew, lots of info to absorb. So you think I need to give him a week or
so
with just fresh water and nothing else?

I have Neosporin, will that work?

Is it a good sign that after all the time (May 15) he is still swimming
and
eating, or are we still not out of the clear?

Thanks!!
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22843 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
The toilet fish tank has been around for several years. There are also
fish tank sinks and other unusual tanks that take advantage of fixtures
and furniture found around the house.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cory Walter
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its mean.

Well, that is definitely different!


----- Original Message ----
From: memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 6, 2007 10:32:51 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think
its mean.

http://www.fishnflu sh.com/fnf- video.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22844 From: dylan_james_75 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Saltwater Eels
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Laurie" <lilpeach911@...> wrote:
>
> Do we have any saltwater eel owners out there? If so, I was curious
> what you are feeding them. We loved the idea of feeding them the small
> feeder fish at the LFS, but thought about it. If we get them used to
> live food they may start attacking our other fish in the tank. So we
> have been feeding them the silverside.
>
> Just curious if anyone suggests anything else.
>
> Laurie
>
Yes we have a snowflake eel and we feed our ell frozen thawed Krill,
type of shrimp. the Snowflake eel does very good on them also we have
a green brittle star that will feed on the thawed Krill shrimp.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22845 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Steve,

Yes I have removed the carbon. Its just straight water filtratuon and
air stones. Like I said, he's still swimming, still eating but still
has a NASTY side, although its not as "flaky" as it first was.

Jenn

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> While you are medicating your fish, you should remove any carbon you
may
> have in the water path, as it could very well be removing the
medication
> from the water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22846 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Saltwater Eels
I also have a snowflake eel he loves the frozen mysis that I feed the tank along with giving him Krill and Sliverside

dylan_james_75 <dylan_james_75@...> wrote: --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Laurie" <lilpeach911@...> wrote:
>
> Do we have any saltwater eel owners out there? If so, I was curious
> what you are feeding them. We loved the idea of feeding them the small
> feeder fish at the LFS, but thought about it. If we get them used to
> live food they may start attacking our other fish in the tank. So we
> have been feeding them the silverside.
>
> Just curious if anyone suggests anything else.
>
> Laurie
>
Yes we have a snowflake eel and we feed our ell frozen thawed Krill,
type of shrimp. the Snowflake eel does very good on them also we have
a green brittle star that will feed on the thawed Krill shrimp.






---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22847 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
It should. I think any antibacterial cream is what is being advised. Just
something topical to kill any bacteria on the open wound to help the fish
begin the healing process.

BTW... that's only a fraction of what you will learn about fish keeping and
one day you will look back and remember the days when you had no clue about
the nitrogen cycle. (And if someone else is reading this and does not know
what the nitrogen cycle is, please, please, please learn about this most
critical process in the hobby.)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 1:56 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore


Whew, lots of info to absorb. So you think I need to give him a week or so
with just fresh water and nothing else?

I have Neosporin, will that work?

Is it a good sign that after all the time (May 15) he is still swimming and
eating, or are we still not out of the clear?

Thanks!!
Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007
2:03 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22848 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Help! My fancy goldfish has a BIG sore
Would collidal silver help heal the fish?
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22849 From: land_shapes Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Hi Hank

thanks for the welcome,


I have seen the odd fish caught by these hydra but there are only a
few hydra (that I can see) but hundreds of fry, could they really
catch and devour that many so quickly? Only couple of dozen survivors
now and these all seem very small ones...

... If these don't survive I will definitely try again, apart from
making my own infusion is there anything else you think I should be
doing different?


thanks

bob

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....
> > ========================
> Hi Bob;
> welcome to the group.You say you enjoy watching the Hydra.Well
> thats your missing fry problem.Hydra will eat egglayer fry.Next
time
> make your own infuroria rather than collecting it outdoors.Just
about
> any plant materal will make it.Youll have better luck next time with
> the home grown stuff.
> Regards Hank
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22850 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
Beth said: "...(and they only see your behind!)"

Not for us guys! :-P

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Lucas
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 11:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its mean.

I still think it is a bad idea to use fish as decorations, and only seem
them at that time (and they only see your behind!)

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think
its mean.

To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
me <betti@...> wrote:
>
> oh hehehe, I've seen that before. Its not mean, the fish aren't
really inside the tank. If you look at the drawing on the right, there is an
outside aquarium and an inside tank that flushes. It only appears like the
fish are inside. They are actually in an independent fish aquarium that is
as clean and sanitary as any other aquarium would be and has a filter and
everything.
>
> Weird, yes, that I agree.
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: memphisgirl39
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:32 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its mean.
>
>
> http://www.fishnflu <http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html
> <http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html> >
sh.com/fnf-video.html
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.11/837 - Release Date: 6/6/2007
2:03 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22851 From: hank voss Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou

Bob:
Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you see
there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate a
spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did you
bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
because they starve to death.You have to have the right food for them
(size and type of animal).
Any book that has a section on breeding will give you
instructions on making infus.You also can get instant fry food from
your LFS i personaly dont like doing that.
Goldfish are not my specialty my thing are tetras but their
raising cond.are similar.Also if you brought these fry in from
outside use the same water that they were in to raise them.Changing
water conditions as fry can do them in too.

PS you know the old saying+++PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT++++
Regards Hank







ps.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Hank
>
> thanks for the welcome,
>
>
> I have seen the odd fish caught by these hydra but there are only a
> few hydra (that I can see) but hundreds of fry, could they really
> catch and devour that many so quickly? Only couple of dozen
survivors
> now and these all seem very small ones...
>
> ... If these don't survive I will definitely try again, apart from
> making my own infusion is there anything else you think I should be
> doing different?
>
>
> thanks
>
> bob
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....
> > > ========================
> > Hi Bob;
> > welcome to the group.You say you enjoy watching the Hydra.Well
> > thats your missing fry problem.Hydra will eat egglayer fry.Next
> time
> > make your own infuroria rather than collecting it outdoors.Just
> about
> > any plant materal will make it.Youll have better luck next time
with
> > the home grown stuff.
> > Regards Hank
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22852 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
i do too



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> I still think it is a bad idea to use fish as decorations, and only
seem
> them at that time (and they only see your behind!)
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 8:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank.
I think
> its mean.
>
>
>
> To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> me <betti@> wrote:
> >
> > oh hehehe, I've seen that before. Its not mean, the fish aren't
> really inside the tank. If you look at the drawing on the right,
> there is an outside aquarium and an inside tank that flushes. It
only
> appears like the fish are inside. They are actually in an
independent
> fish aquarium that is as clean and sanitary as any other aquarium
> would be and has a filter and everything.
> >
> > Weird, yes, that I agree.
> >
> > Betti-A Jersey Girl
> > betti@
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: memphisgirl39
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2007 10:32 PM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
> think its mean.
> >
> >
> > http://www.fishnflu <http://www.fishnflush.com/fnf-video.html>
> sh.com/fnf-video.html
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22853 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
WHAT IS HYDRA


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou
>
> Bob:
> Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you see
> there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate a
> spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
> bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
> easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did you
> bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
> because they starve to death.You have to have the right food for
them
> (size and type of animal).
> Any book that has a section on breeding will give you
> instructions on making infus.You also can get instant fry food from
> your LFS i personaly dont like doing that.
> Goldfish are not my specialty my thing are tetras but their
> raising cond.are similar.Also if you brought these fry in from
> outside use the same water that they were in to raise them.Changing
> water conditions as fry can do them in too.
>
> PS you know the old saying+++PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT++++
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ps.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Hank
> >
> > thanks for the welcome,
> >
> >
> > I have seen the odd fish caught by these hydra but there are only
a
> > few hydra (that I can see) but hundreds of fry, could they really
> > catch and devour that many so quickly? Only couple of dozen
> survivors
> > now and these all seem very small ones...
> >
> > ... If these don't survive I will definitely try again, apart
from
> > making my own infusion is there anything else you think I should
be
> > doing different?
> >
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > bob
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....
> > > > ========================
> > > Hi Bob;
> > > welcome to the group.You say you enjoy watching the
Hydra.Well
> > > thats your missing fry problem.Hydra will eat egglayer
fry.Next
> > time
> > > make your own infuroria rather than collecting it outdoors.Just
> > about
> > > any plant materal will make it.Youll have better luck next time
> with
> > > the home grown stuff.
> > > Regards Hank
> > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22854 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Hydra are fresh water animals that are related to jelly fish and
corals They are usually small and have many arms that have stinging
cells that will capture and kill small animals including fish fry.
One natural cure for them is the pearl gourami. Yes the gourami will
eat fry too but if you let the gourami stay in the tank for a while
and eat all of the hyra then you can take the gourami out and use
the tank again for rearing the fish fry.

















--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...>
wrote:
>
> WHAT IS HYDRA
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22855 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Hydra could be:

"HYDRA is a fictional terrorist organization in the Marvel Universe. The organization first appeared in Strange Tales #135. In its original continuity, it was headed by nondescript businessman Arnold Brown, who was killed as S.H.I.E.L.D. apparently crushed the organization. It soon returned, however, headed by Baron Wolfgang von Strucker, with the support of the Nazi Red Skull; HYDRA's changing origin was one of the earliest Marvel retcons. After its initial defeat, several of its branches surfaced, appearing to be unrelated and independent. HYDRA's scientific branch was initially A.I.M. (Advanced Idea Mechanics), which later split off into its own organization. Other factions included THEM and the Secret Empire."

Or, it could be:
"In Greek mythology, the Lernaean Hydra (Greek: Λερναία Ὕδρα) was an ancient nameless serpent-like chthonic water beast that possessed numerous heads— the poets mention more heads than the vase-painters could paint— and poisonous breath (Hyginus, 30). The Hydra of Lerna was killed by Heracles as one of his Twelve Labours. Its lair was the lake of Lerna in the Argolid, though archaeology has borne out the myth that the sacred site was older even than the Mycenaean city of Argos, for Lerna was the site of the myth of the Danaids. Beneath the waters was an entrance to the Underworld, and the Hydra was its guardian . .."

But what this thread is referring to is actually:

"Hydra is a genus of simple, fresh-water animals possessing radial symmetry. Hydras are predatory animals belonging to the phylum Cnidaria and the class Hydrozoa. They can be found in most un-polluted freshwater ponds, lakes and streams in the temperate and tropical regions by gently sweeping a collecting net through weedy areas. They are usually a few millimeters long and are best studied with a microscope. Biologists are especially interested in hydra due to their regenerative ability."



\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Thursday, June 07, 2007 10:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice

WHAT IS HYDRA


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou
>
> Bob:
> Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you see
> there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate a
> spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
> bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
> easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did you
> bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
> because they starve to death.You have to have the right food for
them
> (size and type of animal).
> Any book that has a section on breeding will give you
> instructions on making infus.You also can get instant fry food from
> your LFS i personaly dont like doing that.
> Goldfish are not my specialty my thing are tetras but their
> raising cond.are similar.Also if you brought these fry in from
> outside use the same water that they were in to raise them.Changing
> water conditions as fry can do them in too.
>
> PS you know the old saying+++PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT++++
> Regards Hank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ps.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Hank
> >
> > thanks for the welcome,
> >
> >
> > I have seen the odd fish caught by these hydra but there are only
a
> > few hydra (that I can see) but hundreds of fry, could they really
> > catch and devour that many so quickly? Only couple of dozen
> survivors
> > now and these all seem very small ones...
> >
> > ... If these don't survive I will definitely try again, apart
from
> > making my own infusion is there anything else you think I should
be
> > doing different?
> >
> >
> > thanks
> >
> > bob
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Hi, newbie to this group and Indoor fishkeeping.....
> > > > ========================
> > > Hi Bob;
> > > welcome to the group.You say you enjoy watching the
Hydra.Well
> > > thats your missing fry problem.Hydra will eat egglayer
fry.Next
> > time
> > > make your own infuroria rather than collecting it outdoors.Just
> > about
> > > any plant materal will make it.Youll have better luck next time
> with
> > > the home grown stuff.
> > > Regards Hank
> > >
> > >
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22856 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/8/2007
Subject: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Hi, again, everyone.
This is week three of cycling my tank. Still have all eleven of the
damsels and they appear to be healthy. Below are my test results from
this morning. I am a beginner so any comments by you experienced
members would be appreciated. We are thinking that we should do a
partial water change.

PH - 7.8
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20
Specific gravity - 1.024
Salinity - 33

Thanks
Lynda
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22857 From: Francina Martinez Date: 6/8/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its mean.
LMAO, Lenny! That's hilarious.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22858 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: some fish books
Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many subjects, I just cant keep them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great condition unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics of any or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
**********************************************************************************
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback with color plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy, contented, well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175 titles and covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as well as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other animal that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming, training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding, and general care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and varieties.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition (November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine Fish like new with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews (Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use. $1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with color and black and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

*************************************************************************

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)
by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion. How to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist . This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity will send many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22859 From: Just ask me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Genes of sea Sponge reveals the origins of Nervous System
Scientists at the University of California, Santa Barbara have
discovered significant clues to the evolutionary origins of the nervous
system by studying the genome of a sea sponge, a member of a group
considered to be among the most ancient of all animals.
The findings are published in the June 6 issue of the journal PLoS ONE,
a Public Library of Science journal. Read more at Marine animal news
<http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22860 From: Just ask me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Sea Turtle Eating a Sponge
View the video at Videos of blue waters
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22861 From: EAR Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Sea Turtle Eating a Sponge
Excellent videos!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22862 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
What is hydra?

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of hank voss
Sent: Thu 6/7/2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou

Bob:
Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you see
there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate a
spawn.Terms of Use <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> | Unsubscribe <mailto:AquaticLife-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22863 From: me Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Hi Mary,
I'm very interested in the Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
and if we get that then also Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition with 70 new color photos 1966 by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use. $1

We have recently started an African chiclid tank and a South American chiclid tank and have lots to learn. Please let me know how much shipped to zip code 07731 (Howell, NJ)
Would you like Paypal or a check?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Pickles
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books


Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many subjects, I just cant keep them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great condition unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics of any or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
**********************************************************************************
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback with color plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy, contented, well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175 titles and covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as well as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other animal that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming, training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding, and general care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and varieties.

----------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition (November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine Fish like new with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews (Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use. $1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with color and black and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

*************************************************************************

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)
by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion. How to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist . This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity will send many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

----------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22864 From: hank voss Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
>
> What is hydra?
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
===================================
Look up thread#22854&55 gives good description
> Hank
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22865 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Python..
Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22866 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Thanks, I found it right after I sent my question....

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of hank voss
Sent: Sat 6/9/2007 12:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
>
> What is hydra?
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
===================================
Look up thread#22854&55 gives good description
> Hank
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22867 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with use.
$1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
"Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.

What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original with
newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a bit
wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here can
correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked by
stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory alone).

So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books

Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have
decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
subjects, I just cant keep them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg
book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the
discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great condition
unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics of any
or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
************************************************************************
**********
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback
with color plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and
Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series
provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy, contented,
well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175 titles and
covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as well
as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other animal
that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with
many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding,
and general care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish
are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists
will find them available in many colors and varieties.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
(November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
Fish like new with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
(Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition
with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use.
$1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
color and black and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

************************************************************************
*

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)

by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the
amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life
provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's
own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving
specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion. How
to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist .
This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity
will send many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an
out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22868 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
I would use the Python to refill the tank, adding my water conditioners
straight to the tank prior to the water addition.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..

Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22869 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Python..
Python, about 20 minutes to fill 125 gallon tank.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Python..



Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22870 From: hank voss Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with
use.
> $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
>
> What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original
with
> newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a
bit
> wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here
can
> correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked
by
> stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
alone).
>
> So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> =======================
>Steve:
Your right on the above statements i have one of these copies.
Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22871 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Thanks, that's what I was wanting to know. I was afraid the
chlorine would hurt the fish if it wasn't treated first. Ok, great.
Thanks Steve!

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sat 6/9/2007 1:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Python..



I would use the Python to refill the tank, adding my water conditioners
straight to the tank prior to the water addition.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..

Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22872 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
I suppose so...
Not sure what you are saying?
That is what it says on the cover, I have the original , somewhere, its got a yellow
cover...The only difference is that this book has some added color photos that the
other one didnt have because those fish had yet to be discovered, and Axelrod has
written a foreword stating that.. Innes had to get another copyright as the first one
had expired on the original book so he republised the book . In this book Innes'
orginal color plates are reprinted in black and white with the addition of the newer
70 color prints...I haven't read either book word for word...are there any further
differences? Still not clear on what you are saying? I am a bit dense at times...
Thanks...Mary


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] some fish books


Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with use.
$1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
"Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.

What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original with
newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a bit
wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here can
correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked by
stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory alone).

So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books

Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have
decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
subjects, I just cant keep them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg
book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the
discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great condition
unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics of any
or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
************************************************************************
**********
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback
with color plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and
Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series
provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy, contented,
well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175 titles and
covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as well
as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other animal
that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with
many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding,
and general care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish
are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists
will find them available in many colors and varieties.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
(November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
Fish like new with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
(Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition
with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use.
$1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
color and black and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

************************************************************************
*

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)

by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the
amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life
provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's
own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving
specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion. How
to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist .
This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity
will send many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an
out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22873 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Vacuum it, Siphon it and then Refill it using the Python. No need to take
the fish out since you should only be doing 25% - 33% PWC. Add 1/2 dose of
dechlor to the tank when starting the refill process.... to treat only the
amount of water being replaced.... then 1/2 way through the refill, add the
other 1/2 dose.

Do not let the water flow from the Python go directly into the intake of
your filter(s). The dechlor works instantly but I wouldn't want to risk the
tap water getting sucked up into the filter system without having a chance
to be dechlored.

For temperature adjustments, use your fingers to feel the temperature of the
water coming out of the Python and coming out of your filter return and as
long as they feel similar in temp, you will be OK when doing 25% PWC's.
Your fingers are capable of telling the difference of only a couple degrees
so the 25% PWC will not change the tank temp by more than 1F.

Once you start using a Python, you'll wonder why you took so long to buy
one. Check PetsMart's online prices and bring a printed page of the price
and the store will match it. I save 25% and more this way.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 12:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..

Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after cleaning it with the
python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the fish out? I was just
thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/840 - Release Date: 6/8/2007
3:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22874 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
THANK YOU

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> Hydra are fresh water animals that are related to jelly fish and
> corals They are usually small and have many arms that have stinging
> cells that will capture and kill small animals including fish fry.
> One natural cure for them is the pearl gourami. Yes the gourami
will
> eat fry too but if you let the gourami stay in the tank for a while
> and eat all of the hyra then you can take the gourami out and use
> the tank again for rearing the fish fry.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@>
> wrote:
> >
> > WHAT IS HYDRA
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22875 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
WHATEVER

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank weekly.
If it
> "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
>
> In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dctn_2005@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22876 From: Andreas Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Maybe we should all start connecting out fish tanks to your toilet tank and
flush with aquarium water... then re fill the tank with fresh, get more use
out of it that way

A


On 6/9/07, memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> WHATEVER
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> Deenerz@... wrote:
> >
> >
> > My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank weekly.
> If it
> > "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
> >
> > In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > dctn_2005@... writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol.com
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22877 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Great Idea!!!!

But... would you move the fish tank to the bathroom... or the toilet to the
family room? I don't have enough room between my tub and sink for my 65G
tank but if I can finish the white porcelain in a cherry wood stain, it
would match the rest of my living room. Then I wouldn't have to Tivo or
miss any of the Superbowl (game or commercials) when I go to the bathroom
either. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 6:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its me...

Maybe we should all start connecting out fish tanks to your toilet tank and
flush with aquarium water... then re fill the tank with fresh, get more use
out of it that way

A

On 6/9/07, memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@... <mailto:dctn_2005%40yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> WHATEVER
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
Deenerz@... wrote:
> >
> >
> > My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank weekly.
> If it
> > "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
> >
> > In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > dctn_2005@... writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/840 - Release Date: 6/8/2007
3:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22878 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
No i think your the one we need to start connecting our fish tanks to
your tolete


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Andreas <andreas1120@...> wrote:
>
> Maybe we should all start connecting out fish tanks to your toilet
tank and
> flush with aquarium water... then re fill the tank with fresh, get
more use
> out of it that way
>
> A
>
>
> On 6/9/07, memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
> >
> > WHATEVER
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>,
> > Deenerz@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank
weekly.
> > If it
> > > "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
> > >
> > > In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > dctn_2005@ writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went
down.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************** See what's free at
> > http://www.aol.com
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22879 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
LOL LENNY



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Great Idea!!!!
>
> But... would you move the fish tank to the bathroom... or the
toilet to the
> family room? I don't have enough room between my tub and sink for
my 65G
> tank but if I can finish the white porcelain in a cherry wood
stain, it
> would match the rest of my living room. Then I wouldn't have to
Tivo or
> miss any of the Superbowl (game or commercials) when I go to the
bathroom
> either. LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Andreas
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 6:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish
tank. I
> think its me...
>
> Maybe we should all start connecting out fish tanks to your toilet
tank and
> flush with aquarium water... then re fill the tank with fresh, get
more use
> out of it that way
>
> A
>
> On 6/9/07, memphisgirl39 <dctn_2005@... <mailto:dctn_2005%
40yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > WHATEVER
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>,
> Deenerz@ wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank
weekly.
> > If it
> > > "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
> > >
> > > In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > > dctn_2005@ writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went
down.
> > >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/840 - Release Date:
6/8/2007
> 3:15 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22880 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
The first edition of the Innes book was published in 1935 or
thereabouts, not 1966. Axelrod purchased the rights to the book from
Metaframe and added some stuff and made some other changes and
republished as the original Innes, which it is not. If it was the
original Innes, you would have probably had more than a few offers for
it, and many would probably offer you more. You probably need more of a
grounding in aquarium history to really understand the huckster that
Axelrod was, and is, though there is no real argument that he did help
make the hobby more widespread.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] some fish books


I suppose so...
Not sure what you are saying?
That is what it says on the cover, I have the original , somewhere, its
got a yellow
cover...The only difference is that this book has some added color
photos that the
other one didnt have because those fish had yet to be discovered, and
Axelrod has
written a foreword stating that.. Innes had to get another copyright as
the first one
had expired on the original book so he republised the book . In this
book Innes'
orginal color plates are reprinted in black and white with the addition
of the newer
70 color prints...I haven't read either book word for word...are there
any further
differences? Still not clear on what you are saying? I am a bit dense at
times...
Thanks...Mary


----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] some fish books


Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with use.
$1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
"Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.

What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original with
newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a bit
wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here can
correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked by
stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory alone).

So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books

Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have
decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
subjects, I just cant keep them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg
book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the
discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great condition
unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics of any
or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
************************************************************************
**********
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback
with color plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and
Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series
provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy, contented,
well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175 titles and
covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as well
as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other animal
that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with
many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding,
and general care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish
are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists
will find them available in many colors and varieties.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
(November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
Fish like new with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
(Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition
with 70 new color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use.
$1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
color and black and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

************************************************************************
*

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)

by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the
amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life
provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's
own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving
specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion. How
to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist .
This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity
will send many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an
out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22881 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Ok Lenny. I'll go get one tomorrow. It's time to do a change on the big tank now.
I know that'll make it a lot easier to do it and the other ones too, Not too mention
the fact the little vacuum I have now is so short I have to stick my arm in there
to reach the gravel.

The fish are doing well now and I have annubias growing in every tank except the
dwarf puffers. it won't get started there. I'll get some more bulbs tomorrow when I
get the python.

I appreciate the help everyone has given me. Thanks so much....

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sat 6/9/2007 5:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Python..



Vacuum it, Siphon it and then Refill it using the Python. No need to take
the fish out since you should only be doing 25% - 33% PWC. Add 1/2 dose of
dechlor to the tank when starting the refill process.... to treat only the
amount of water being replaced.... then 1/2 way through the refill, add the
other 1/2 dose.

Do not let the water flow from the Python go directly into the intake of
your filter(s). The dechlor works instantly but I wouldn't want to risk the
tap water getting sucked up into the filter system without having a chance
to be dechlored.

For temperature adjustments, use your fingers to feel the temperature of the
water coming out of the Python and coming out of your filter return and as
long as they feel similar in temp, you will be OK when doing 25% PWC's.
Your fingers are capable of telling the difference of only a couple degrees
so the 25% PWC will not change the tank temp by more than 1F.

Once you start using a Python, you'll wonder why you took so long to buy
one. Check PetsMart's online prices and bring a printed page of the price
and the store will match it. I save 25% and more this way.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 12:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..

Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after cleaning it with the
python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the fish out? I was just
thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/840 - Release Date: 6/8/2007
3:15 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Z`·.¸¸.><((((s>.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸><((((s> ¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..><((((s>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<s((((><.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸<s((((><¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..<s((((><·´Z`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22882 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Hi Mary, Perhaps I can clarify this apparent confusion. Hank is
right in saying the Steve is correct on this, and I'll explain. The
edition of "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" by William T. Innes edition which
you have is far from the "original" edition of this book, that (1st
Edition) being published by the Innes Publishing Company in 1935.
However, as you are probably just rewriting the inscription that is
probably found on your edition's cover, you would have no way of
otherwise knowing. The TFH (Tropical Fish Hobbyist -- Dr. Herbert
Axelrod) edition(s), which you no doubt have, were published after
the Metaframe (Aquariums Incorporated) editions as Steve has said and
the last of these (Metaframe) editions were published in 1966.

The year (1966) which you have indicated for this book probably
reflects the last edition your book was copied from, but would have
been published sometime after that. TFH published the book right up
to and including at least 1979 that I know of, and perhaps later.
Since, as I believe, it is faithful to the Metaframe edition (which
was faithful to the Innes Publishing Company/The Aquarium Publishing
Company last revised edition, it is still very informative reading.

The TFH edition has inscribed on its cover, "The Original Edition
With 70 New Color Photographs." Additionally, it credits DR. William
T. Innes as the author (not William T. Innes, as you have). The
name, William T. Innes would have appeared on Innes Publishing
Company editions prior to the early ' 50's before the doctorate was
conferred upon him. If your edition contains 544 pages and has a
large picture of a Discus on the cover (and contains the above
inscription besides), you have one of the TFH editions. The last
Metaframe edition had 488 pages, with 80 color photos. Why TFH chose
to market their edition as the "Original Edition" is misleading, but
merely shows it has not been changed (at least not substantially).
BTW, at the price you're offering it for, it makes good reference
material. In addition to numerous collectable Innes Publishing
Company editions I have in my library, I have two Metaframe editions
which I use just for that purpose, one with the spine completely
broken away from use. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with
use.
> $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
>
> What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original
with
> newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a
bit
> wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here
can
> correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked
by
> stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
alone).
>
> So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Pickles
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
> Hi all,
> I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
have
> decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
reg
> book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
got the
> discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
condition
> unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
> 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
of any
> or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
>
**********************************************************************
**
> **********
> Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
paperback
> with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> ***********************************************************
> Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> Editorial Reviews
>
> Book Description
> These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
Africa, and
> Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
series
> provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
contented,
> well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
titles and
> covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as
well
> as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
animal
> that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
> care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
> training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
with
> many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
>
> Back Cover Copy
> Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and
more
> a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
feeding,
> and general care
> a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
fish
> are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
hobbyists
> will find them available in many colors and varieties.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> (November 17, 2005)
> c.. Language: English
>
>
> *****************************************************************
> All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
> Fish like new with dust jacket
> by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
> (Author) $5
>
> ****************************************************************
>
> Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition
> with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
use.
> $1
>
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
> color and black and white plates
> by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
>
>
**********************************************************************
**
> *
>
> American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
(Paperback)
>
> by David K. Bulloch $2
>
> Editorial Reviews
>
> From Library Journal
> Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
book, the
> amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
life
> provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
one's
> own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
preserving
> specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion.
How
> to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
> with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
Naturalist .
> This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
brevity
> will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
to an
> out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> c.. Language: English
> d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22883 From: Paul Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
My 1956 edition states in the forward that it is the 19th edition. :)
It seems like it may be the first edition with color plate photos but
I'm not sure.

Paul


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mary, Perhaps I can clarify this apparent confusion. Hank is
> right in saying the Steve is correct on this, and I'll explain.
The
> edition of "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" by William T. Innes edition
which
> you have is far from the "original" edition of this book, that (1st
> Edition) being published by the Innes Publishing Company in 1935.
> However, as you are probably just rewriting the inscription that is
> probably found on your edition's cover, you would have no way of
> otherwise knowing. The TFH (Tropical Fish Hobbyist -- Dr. Herbert
> Axelrod) edition(s), which you no doubt have, were published after
> the Metaframe (Aquariums Incorporated) editions as Steve has said
and
> the last of these (Metaframe) editions were published in 1966.
>
> The year (1966) which you have indicated for this book probably
> reflects the last edition your book was copied from, but would have
> been published sometime after that. TFH published the book right
up
> to and including at least 1979 that I know of, and perhaps later.
> Since, as I believe, it is faithful to the Metaframe edition (which
> was faithful to the Innes Publishing Company/The Aquarium
Publishing
> Company last revised edition, it is still very informative
reading.
>
> The TFH edition has inscribed on its cover, "The Original Edition
> With 70 New Color Photographs." Additionally, it credits DR.
William
> T. Innes as the author (not William T. Innes, as you have). The
> name, William T. Innes would have appeared on Innes Publishing
> Company editions prior to the early ' 50's before the doctorate was
> conferred upon him. If your edition contains 544 pages and has a
> large picture of a Discus on the cover (and contains the above
> inscription besides), you have one of the TFH editions. The last
> Metaframe edition had 488 pages, with 80 color photos. Why TFH
chose
> to market their edition as the "Original Edition" is misleading,
but
> merely shows it has not been changed (at least not substantially).
> BTW, at the price you're offering it for, it makes good reference
> material. In addition to numerous collectable Innes Publishing
> Company editions I have in my library, I have two Metaframe
editions
> which I use just for that purpose, one with the spine completely
> broken away from use. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the
original
> > edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere
with
> use.
> > $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> > "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
> >
> > What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> > followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the
original
> with
> > newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline
a
> bit
> > wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around
here
> can
> > correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well
blocked
> by
> > stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
> alone).
> >
> > So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Pickles
> > Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
> have
> > decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> > subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> > I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
> reg
> > book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
> got the
> > discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
> condition
> > unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip
code
> > 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
> of any
> > or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > **********
> > Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
> paperback
> > with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> > ***********************************************************
> > Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > Book Description
> > These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
> Africa, and
> > Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> > varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
> series
> > provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
> contented,
> > well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
> titles and
> > covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds,
as
> well
> > as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
> animal
> > that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of
pet
> > care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care,
grooming,
> > training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
> with
> > many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> > accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> > breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
> >
> > Back Cover Copy
> > Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> > a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits,
and
> more
> > a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
> feeding,
> > and general care
> > a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> > a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> > a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> > a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
> fish
> > are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
> hobbyists
> > will find them available in many colors and varieties.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> > (November 17, 2005)
> > c.. Language: English
> >
> >
> > *****************************************************************
> > All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes
Marine
> > Fish like new with dust jacket
> > by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris
Andrews
> > (Author) $5
> >
> > ****************************************************************
> >
> > Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition
> > with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
> use.
> > $1
> >
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
> > Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition
with
> > color and black and white plates
> > by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
> >
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > *
> >
> > American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
> (Paperback)
> >
> > by David K. Bulloch $2
> >
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > From Library Journal
> > Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
> book, the
> > amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
> life
> > provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
> one's
> > own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
> preserving
> > specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step
fashion.
> How
> > to write up the collected data as a creditable report is
illustrated
> > with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
> Naturalist .
> > This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
> brevity
> > will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> > - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> > Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
> to an
> > out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> > c.. Language: English
> > d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> > e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> > f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> > g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22884 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
I believe that all of the Innes editions have at least three color
photos in them. The other plates were color paintings. I will check one
of my earlier editions of Innes, if I can get the path to the bookcase
cleared tomorrow.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 10:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books

My 1956 edition states in the forward that it is the 19th edition. :)
It seems like it may be the first edition with color plate photos but
I'm not sure.

Paul


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mary, Perhaps I can clarify this apparent confusion. Hank is
> right in saying the Steve is correct on this, and I'll explain.
The
> edition of "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" by William T. Innes edition
which
> you have is far from the "original" edition of this book, that (1st
> Edition) being published by the Innes Publishing Company in 1935.
> However, as you are probably just rewriting the inscription that is
> probably found on your edition's cover, you would have no way of
> otherwise knowing. The TFH (Tropical Fish Hobbyist -- Dr. Herbert
> Axelrod) edition(s), which you no doubt have, were published after
> the Metaframe (Aquariums Incorporated) editions as Steve has said
and
> the last of these (Metaframe) editions were published in 1966.
>
> The year (1966) which you have indicated for this book probably
> reflects the last edition your book was copied from, but would have
> been published sometime after that. TFH published the book right
up
> to and including at least 1979 that I know of, and perhaps later.
> Since, as I believe, it is faithful to the Metaframe edition (which
> was faithful to the Innes Publishing Company/The Aquarium
Publishing
> Company last revised edition, it is still very informative
reading.
>
> The TFH edition has inscribed on its cover, "The Original Edition
> With 70 New Color Photographs." Additionally, it credits DR.
William
> T. Innes as the author (not William T. Innes, as you have). The
> name, William T. Innes would have appeared on Innes Publishing
> Company editions prior to the early ' 50's before the doctorate was
> conferred upon him. If your edition contains 544 pages and has a
> large picture of a Discus on the cover (and contains the above
> inscription besides), you have one of the TFH editions. The last
> Metaframe edition had 488 pages, with 80 color photos. Why TFH
chose
> to market their edition as the "Original Edition" is misleading,
but
> merely shows it has not been changed (at least not substantially).
> BTW, at the price you're offering it for, it makes good reference
> material. In addition to numerous collectable Innes Publishing
> Company editions I have in my library, I have two Metaframe
editions
> which I use just for that purpose, one with the spine completely
> broken away from use. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the
original
> > edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere
with
> use.
> > $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> > "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
> >
> > What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> > followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the
original
> with
> > newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline
a
> bit
> > wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around
here
> can
> > correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well
blocked
> by
> > stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
> alone).
> >
> > So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Pickles
> > Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
> have
> > decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> > subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> > I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
> reg
> > book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
> got the
> > discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
> condition
> > unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip
code
> > 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
> of any
> > or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > **********
> > Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
> paperback
> > with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> > ***********************************************************
> > Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > Book Description
> > These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
> Africa, and
> > Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> > varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
> series
> > provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
> contented,
> > well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
> titles and
> > covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds,
as
> well
> > as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
> animal
> > that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of
pet
> > care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care,
grooming,
> > training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
> with
> > many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> > accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> > breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
> >
> > Back Cover Copy
> > Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> > a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits,
and
> more
> > a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
> feeding,
> > and general care
> > a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> > a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> > a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> > a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
> fish
> > are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
> hobbyists
> > will find them available in many colors and varieties.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> > (November 17, 2005)
> > c.. Language: English
> >
> >
> > *****************************************************************
> > All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes
Marine
> > Fish like new with dust jacket
> > by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris
Andrews
> > (Author) $5
> >
> > ****************************************************************
> >
> > Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition
> > with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
> use.
> > $1
> >
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
> > Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition
with
> > color and black and white plates
> > by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
> >
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > *
> >
> > American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
> (Paperback)
> >
> > by David K. Bulloch $2
> >
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > From Library Journal
> > Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
> book, the
> > amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
> life
> > provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
> one's
> > own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
> preserving
> > specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step
fashion.
> How
> > to write up the collected data as a creditable report is
illustrated
> > with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
> Naturalist .
> > This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
> brevity
> > will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> > - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> > Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
> to an
> > out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> > c.. Language: English
> > d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> > e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> > f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> > g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22885 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Okay, I thought that's what it might have said on the cover -- I
hadn't seen this meesage of yours yet when I posted. This bears out
what I attributed to the TFH edition. Since yours was published
after 1966 and the Original edition (by Innes Publishing Co.) was
published in 1935, its obvious which edition was the "Original" one.

The Innes Publishing Company published 18 editions (1935 - May and
December, 1938, 1942, 1944, 1945, 1947, 1948, 1949, 1950, 1951
(January and July), 1953 (January and July), 1954, 1955 and 1957.
After this time, when Dr. Innes retired and sold the company in April
1959, and before the next (19th Revised) Edition was published, the
firm's name was changed to The Aquarium Publishing Company
necessitating getting another copyright before that edition was
printed in 1964 -- far before Herbert Axelrod came out with his
edition. Axelrod/TFH had absolutely nothing to do with the book at
this time; it was re-published (revised) as a successor to the Innes
Publishing Company.

The fact that your book contains photos of yet undiscovered fish at a
time when the ORIGINAL book was published indicates in itself that
your book was obviously published after the Original book and could
have in no way been the "Orginal" edition, as per your description of
your book's photos. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I suppose so...
> Not sure what you are saying?
> That is what it says on the cover, I have the original , somewhere,
its got a yellow
> cover...The only difference is that this book has some added color
photos that the
> other one didnt have because those fish had yet to be discovered,
and Axelrod has
> written a foreword stating that.. Innes had to get another
copyright as the first one
> had expired on the original book so he republised the book . In
this book Innes'
> orginal color plates are reprinted in black and white with the
addition of the newer
> 70 color prints...I haven't read either book word for word...are
there any further
> differences? Still not clear on what you are saying? I am a bit
dense at times...
> Thanks...Mary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:40 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
>
> Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with
use.
> $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
>
> What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original
with
> newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a
bit
> wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here
can
> correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked
by
> stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
alone).
>
> So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Pickles
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
> Hi all,
> I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
have
> decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
reg
> book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
got the
> discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
condition
> unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
> 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
of any
> or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
>
**********************************************************************
**
> **********
> Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
paperback
> with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> ***********************************************************
> Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> Editorial Reviews
>
> Book Description
> These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
Africa, and
> Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
series
> provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
contented,
> well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
titles and
> covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as
well
> as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
animal
> that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
> care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
> training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
with
> many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
>
> Back Cover Copy
> Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and
more
> a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
feeding,
> and general care
> a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
fish
> are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
hobbyists
> will find them available in many colors and varieties.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> (November 17, 2005)
> c.. Language: English
>
>
> *****************************************************************
> All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
> Fish like new with dust jacket
> by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
> (Author) $5
>
> ****************************************************************
>
> Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition
> with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
use.
> $1
>
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
> color and black and white plates
> by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
>
>
**********************************************************************
**
> *
>
> American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
(Paperback)
>
> by David K. Bulloch $2
>
> Editorial Reviews
>
> From Library Journal
> Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
book, the
> amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
life
> provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
one's
> own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
preserving
> specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion.
How
> to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
> with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
Naturalist .
> This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
brevity
> will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
to an
> out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> c.. Language: English
> d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply
> & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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> subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22886 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Everything looks good except the PH, you need 8.2 on it. Marine buffer will do the trick on that . make sure you have a PH test kit for salrwater. I would not do a water change yet, I dont for 6 weeks aleast,from the start of the aquarium. How big is this tank?

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Lynda Dodd
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 2:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated


Hi, again, everyone.
This is week three of cycling my tank. Still have all eleven of the
damsels and they appear to be healthy. Below are my test results from
this morning. I am a beginner so any comments by you experienced
members would be appreciated. We are thinking that we should do a
partial water change.

PH - 7.8
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 20
Specific gravity - 1.024
Salinity - 33

Thanks
Lynda






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22887 From: Paul H Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
I just noticed that W.T. Innes says in his intro that they started
displaying color pictures in the magazine “ The Aquarium” around the 1930 so
I do imagine the color photos where around a bit before my edition. J

Really good book with a lot of good information even to this day I found.
It always struck me while reading “Exotic Aquarium Fishes” that the book was
not written for the commercial aspect that taints so much of the hobby
today. Perhaps a better way of putting it is that he seemed very selfless
in his writing. It just seems very different but extremely practical and
informative. No Garbage at all and I still see nothing incorrect in the
lesson on the principles of fish keeping.

I would imagine it was an extremely excellent book for those times.

Now that I think of it reading it when I got my first fish bowl was probably
the reason I have stuck with this hobby for so long and have so many tanks!
J



Paul.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: June 9, 2007 9:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books



I believe that all of the Innes editions have at least three color
photos in them. The other plates were color paintings. I will check one
of my earlier editions of Innes, if I can get the path to the bookcase
cleared tomorrow.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 10:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books

My 1956 edition states in the forward that it is the 19th edition. :)
It seems like it may be the first edition with color plate photos but
I'm not sure.

Paul

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mary, Perhaps I can clarify this apparent confusion. Hank is
> right in saying the Steve is correct on this, and I'll explain.
The
> edition of "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" by William T. Innes edition
which
> you have is far from the "original" edition of this book, that (1st
> Edition) being published by the Innes Publishing Company in 1935.
> However, as you are probably just rewriting the inscription that is
> probably found on your edition's cover, you would have no way of
> otherwise knowing. The TFH (Tropical Fish Hobbyist -- Dr. Herbert
> Axelrod) edition(s), which you no doubt have, were published after
> the Metaframe (Aquariums Incorporated) editions as Steve has said
and
> the last of these (Metaframe) editions were published in 1966.
>
> The year (1966) which you have indicated for this book probably
> reflects the last edition your book was copied from, but would have
> been published sometime after that. TFH published the book right
up
> to and including at least 1979 that I know of, and perhaps later.
> Since, as I believe, it is faithful to the Metaframe edition (which
> was faithful to the Innes Publishing Company/The Aquarium
Publishing
> Company last revised edition, it is still very informative
reading.
>
> The TFH edition has inscribed on its cover, "The Original Edition
> With 70 New Color Photographs." Additionally, it credits DR.
William
> T. Innes as the author (not William T. Innes, as you have). The
> name, William T. Innes would have appeared on Innes Publishing
> Company editions prior to the early ' 50's before the doctorate was
> conferred upon him. If your edition contains 544 pages and has a
> large picture of a Discus on the cover (and contains the above
> inscription besides), you have one of the TFH editions. The last
> Metaframe edition had 488 pages, with 80 color photos. Why TFH
chose
> to market their edition as the "Original Edition" is misleading,
but
> merely shows it has not been changed (at least not substantially).
> BTW, at the price you're offering it for, it makes good reference
> material. In addition to numerous collectable Innes Publishing
> Company editions I have in my library, I have two Metaframe
editions
> which I use just for that purpose, one with the spine completely
> broken away from use. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the
original
> > edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere
with
> use.
> > $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> > "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
> >
> > What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> > followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the
original
> with
> > newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline
a
> bit
> > wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around
here
> can
> > correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well
blocked
> by
> > stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
> alone).
> >
> > So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
]
> > On Behalf Of Pickles
> > Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
> have
> > decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> > subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> > I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
> reg
> > book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
> got the
> > discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
> condition
> > unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip
code
> > 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
> of any
> > or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > **********
> > Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
> paperback
> > with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> > ***********************************************************
> > Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > Book Description
> > These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
> Africa, and
> > Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> > varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
> series
> > provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
> contented,
> > well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
> titles and
> > covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds,
as
> well
> > as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
> animal
> > that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of
pet
> > care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care,
grooming,
> > training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
> with
> > many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> > accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> > breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
> >
> > Back Cover Copy
> > Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> > a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits,
and
> more
> > a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
> feeding,
> > and general care
> > a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> > a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> > a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> > a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
> fish
> > are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
> hobbyists
> > will find them available in many colors and varieties.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> > (November 17, 2005)
> > c.. Language: English
> >
> >
> > *****************************************************************
> > All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes
Marine
> > Fish like new with dust jacket
> > by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris
Andrews
> > (Author) $5
> >
> > ****************************************************************
> >
> > Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition
> > with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
> use.
> > $1
> >
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
> > Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition
with
> > color and black and white plates
> > by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
> >
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > *
> >
> > American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
> (Paperback)
> >
> > by David K. Bulloch $2
> >
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > From Library Journal
> > Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
> book, the
> > amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
> life
> > provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
> one's
> > own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
> preserving
> > specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step
fashion.
> How
> > to write up the collected data as a creditable report is
illustrated
> > with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
> Naturalist .
> > This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
> brevity
> > will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> > - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> > Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
> to an
> > out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> > c.. Language: English
> > d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> > e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> > f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> > g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22888 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Hi,
Yes, thats what it says on the cover, I include a pic of the cover of the book I
have,copywright 1966 T.F.H.
(by the way which Betti has agreed to purchase)
Both Innes and Axelrod wrote forewards for this book and Innes praises Axlerod to the
highest degree. Innes' forward is dated Feb 18th 1966....
It is a bit dated, but still full of great advice.

I have been in the hobby most of my life, and unfortunely, I am no spring
chicken...years ago I had what I believe now to have been an original edition of
Innes, or at least a very early edition. for I remember it having drawings of fancy
ornate aquariums before the invent of air pumps and filters etc and it told where and
how to capture the fish, and how to gather the food, most if not all of it being live
food, and where the best place to get ocean water from...etc....I still might have it
somewhere...anyone know if that would be a correct assumption on my part? .after
thinking about it, the other one I spoke of in an earlier post isnt one from the
30's, but it is earlier than the one I have now prob from the 50's...I have that one
too...some where
After looking through my fish books, I think one of my favorite reference books is
"Vierke's Aquarium Book the way the Germans do it....." by Jorg Vieke 1986, TFH
pub...I think I will hang on to that one for awhile longer....Mary


----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books


Okay, I thought that's what it might have said on the cover -- I
hadn't seen this meesage of yours yet when I posted. This bears out
what I attributed to the TFH edition. Since yours was published
after 1966 and the Original edition (by Innes Publishing Co.) was
published in 1935, its obvious which edition was the "Original" one.

The Innes Publishing Company published 18 editions (1935 - May and
December, 1938, 1942, 1944, 1945, 1947, 1948, 1949, 1950, 1951
(January and July), 1953 (January and July), 1954, 1955 and 1957.
After this time, when Dr. Innes retired and sold the company in April
1959, and before the next (19th Revised) Edition was published, the
firm's name was changed to The Aquarium Publishing Company
necessitating getting another copyright before that edition was
printed in 1964 -- far before Herbert Axelrod came out with his
edition. Axelrod/TFH had absolutely nothing to do with the book at
this time; it was re-published (revised) as a successor to the Innes
Publishing Company.

The fact that your book contains photos of yet undiscovered fish at a
time when the ORIGINAL book was published indicates in itself that
your book was obviously published after the Original book and could
have in no way been the "Orginal" edition, as per your description of
your book's photos. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I suppose so...
> Not sure what you are saying?
> That is what it says on the cover, I have the original , somewhere,
its got a yellow
> cover...The only difference is that this book has some added color
photos that the
> other one didnt have because those fish had yet to be discovered,
and Axelrod has
> written a foreword stating that.. Innes had to get another
copyright as the first one
> had expired on the original book so he republised the book . In
this book Innes'
> orginal color plates are reprinted in black and white with the
addition of the newer
> 70 color prints...I haven't read either book word for word...are
there any further
> differences? Still not clear on what you are saying? I am a bit
dense at times...
> Thanks...Mary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:40 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
>
> Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with
use.
> $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
>
> What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original
with
> newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a
bit
> wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here
can
> correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked
by
> stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
alone).
>
> So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Pickles
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
> Hi all,
> I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
have
> decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
reg
> book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
got the
> discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
condition
> unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
> 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
of any
> or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
>
**********************************************************************
**
> **********
> Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
paperback
> with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> ***********************************************************
> Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> Editorial Reviews
>
> Book Description
> These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
Africa, and
> Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
series
> provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
contented,
> well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
titles and
> covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as
well
> as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
animal
> that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
> care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
> training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
with
> many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
>
> Back Cover Copy
> Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and
more
> a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
feeding,
> and general care
> a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
fish
> are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
hobbyists
> will find them available in many colors and varieties.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> (November 17, 2005)
> c.. Language: English
>
>
> *****************************************************************
> All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
> Fish like new with dust jacket
> by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
> (Author) $5
>
> ****************************************************************
>
> Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition
> with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
use.
> $1
>
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
> color and black and white plates
> by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
>
>
**********************************************************************
**
> *
>
> American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
(Paperback)
>
> by David K. Bulloch $2
>
> Editorial Reviews
>
> From Library Journal
> Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
book, the
> amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
life
> provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
one's
> own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
preserving
> specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion.
How
> to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
> with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
Naturalist .
> This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
brevity
> will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
to an
> out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> c.. Language: English
> d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply
> & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new
> subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22889 From: Pickles Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
Picture of Book....does this list allow attachments? :>) ...Mary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22890 From: Venus Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Second Nature Whisper Power Filters 3 (model 3B)
Anyone have or know anything about the Second Nature Whisper Power
Filter 3 (model 3B)? I got one for free with an aquarium but I am not
sure if it has all the parts and pieces and what filters to use with
it.... I have searched the internet... but can't find anything. I was
hoping to use this filter to set-up a third aquarium.

Thanks
Venus
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22891 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/9/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
I don’t think that’s a god comparison. You don’t do water changes that are
anything like a toilet flushing, or as often. I still don think live animals
are decorations.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 4:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think
its me...



WHATEVER

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank weekly.
If it
> "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
>
> In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dctn_2005@... writes:
>
>
>
>
> To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol <http://www.aol.com> com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22892 From: Pickles Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
OK , So we cant post pics to the list...lol... so I downloaded a pic to the photo sec
of the list...I fogot I had posted other pics there before...so its the last entry
under A Fish Books by Pickles Thanks!.... Mary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Some Fish Boks Picture


Picture of Book....does this list allow attachments? :>) ...Mary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22893 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Every fish in a tank in the country could be described as a decoration unless
your are breeding for conservation purposes.

In a message dated 6/9/2007 11:22:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@... writes:




I don’t think that’s a god comparison. You don’t do water changes that are
anything like a toilet flushing, or as often. I still don think live animals
are decorations.










************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22894 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Some Fish Boks Picture
No attachments or inline graphics on this list. You'll either need to use the files section here, or post it to a web site, either your own or a photo sharing site.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Pickles
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 2:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Some Fish Boks Picture

Picture of Book....does this list allow attachments? :>) ...Mary

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22895 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
The information in the Innes book is solid information, and can be
relied upon today as it could back in the 30's when the book was first
published. However, some of the information is a bit dated, and we now
have different ways of achieving the same results. I still use the 19th
Edition, Revised (a Metaframe publication) as a reference. The Baensch
"Aquarium Atlas" is structured similarly to the Innes book, and is also
a very good reference, but it can be overwhelming with the sheer number
of fishes covered.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 12:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books

I just noticed that W.T. Innes says in his intro that they started
displaying color pictures in the magazine " The Aquarium" around the
1930 so
I do imagine the color photos where around a bit before my edition. J

Really good book with a lot of good information even to this day I
found.
It always struck me while reading "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" that the book
was
not written for the commercial aspect that taints so much of the hobby
today. Perhaps a better way of putting it is that he seemed very
selfless
in his writing. It just seems very different but extremely practical
and
informative. No Garbage at all and I still see nothing incorrect in
the
lesson on the principles of fish keeping.

I would imagine it was an extremely excellent book for those times.

Now that I think of it reading it when I got my first fish bowl was
probably
the reason I have stuck with this hobby for so long and have so many
tanks!
J



Paul.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: June 9, 2007 9:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books



I believe that all of the Innes editions have at least three color
photos in them. The other plates were color paintings. I will check one
of my earlier editions of Innes, if I can get the path to the bookcase
cleared tomorrow.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Paul
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 10:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books

My 1956 edition states in the forward that it is the 19th edition. :)
It seems like it may be the first edition with color plate photos but
I'm not sure.

Paul

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Mary, Perhaps I can clarify this apparent confusion. Hank is
> right in saying the Steve is correct on this, and I'll explain.
The
> edition of "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" by William T. Innes edition
which
> you have is far from the "original" edition of this book, that (1st
> Edition) being published by the Innes Publishing Company in 1935.
> However, as you are probably just rewriting the inscription that is
> probably found on your edition's cover, you would have no way of
> otherwise knowing. The TFH (Tropical Fish Hobbyist -- Dr. Herbert
> Axelrod) edition(s), which you no doubt have, were published after
> the Metaframe (Aquariums Incorporated) editions as Steve has said
and
> the last of these (Metaframe) editions were published in 1966.
>
> The year (1966) which you have indicated for this book probably
> reflects the last edition your book was copied from, but would have
> been published sometime after that. TFH published the book right
up
> to and including at least 1979 that I know of, and perhaps later.
> Since, as I believe, it is faithful to the Metaframe edition (which
> was faithful to the Innes Publishing Company/The Aquarium
Publishing
> Company last revised edition, it is still very informative
reading.
>
> The TFH edition has inscribed on its cover, "The Original Edition
> With 70 New Color Photographs." Additionally, it credits DR.
William
> T. Innes as the author (not William T. Innes, as you have). The
> name, William T. Innes would have appeared on Innes Publishing
> Company editions prior to the early ' 50's before the doctorate was
> conferred upon him. If your edition contains 544 pages and has a
> large picture of a Discus on the cover (and contains the above
> inscription besides), you have one of the TFH editions. The last
> Metaframe edition had 488 pages, with 80 color photos. Why TFH
chose
> to market their edition as the "Original Edition" is misleading,
but
> merely shows it has not been changed (at least not substantially).
> BTW, at the price you're offering it for, it makes good reference
> material. In addition to numerous collectable Innes Publishing
> Company editions I have in my library, I have two Metaframe
editions
> which I use just for that purpose, one with the spine completely
> broken away from use. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the
original
> > edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere
with
> use.
> > $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> > "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
> >
> > What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> > followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the
original
> with
> > newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline
a
> bit
> > wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around
here
> can
> > correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well
blocked
> by
> > stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
> alone).
> >
> > So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
]
> > On Behalf Of Pickles
> > Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
> have
> > decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> > subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> > I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
> reg
> > book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
> got the
> > discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
> condition
> > unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip
code
> > 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
> of any
> > or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > **********
> > Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
> paperback
> > with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> > ***********************************************************
> > Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > Book Description
> > These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
> Africa, and
> > Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> > varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
> series
> > provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
> contented,
> > well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
> titles and
> > covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds,
as
> well
> > as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
> animal
> > that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of
pet
> > care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care,
grooming,
> > training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
> with
> > many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> > accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> > breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
> >
> > Back Cover Copy
> > Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> > a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits,
and
> more
> > a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
> feeding,
> > and general care
> > a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> > a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> > a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> > a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
> fish
> > are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
> hobbyists
> > will find them available in many colors and varieties.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> > (November 17, 2005)
> > c.. Language: English
> >
> >
> > *****************************************************************
> > All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes
Marine
> > Fish like new with dust jacket
> > by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris
Andrews
> > (Author) $5
> >
> > ****************************************************************
> >
> > Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition
> > with 70 new color photos 1966
> > by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
> use.
> > $1
> >
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
> > Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition
with
> > color and black and white plates
> > by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
> >
> >
>
**********************************************************************
> **
> > *
> >
> > American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
> (Paperback)
> >
> > by David K. Bulloch $2
> >
> > Editorial Reviews
> >
> > From Library Journal
> > Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
> book, the
> > amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
> life
> > provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
> one's
> > own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
> preserving
> > specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step
fashion.
> How
> > to write up the collected data as a creditable report is
illustrated
> > with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
> Naturalist .
> > This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
> brevity
> > will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> > - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> > Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
> to an
> > out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
--
> ----
> > --------
> > Product Details
> >
> > a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> > b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> > c.. Language: English
> > d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> > e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> > f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> > g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22896 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Fish Food Recall
Sergeant's Pet Care Products Inc. is recalling some of its fish food
products due to the finding of melamine in the food. This chemical has
been found to lead to various ailments in humans, dogs, and cats,
illness that can lead to death.

These are the recalled products. The numbers in parentheses are the last
five digits of the UPC code.

* Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.88 oz. (10006)
* Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 2.25 oz. (10057)
* Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 0.75 oz. (10154)
* Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 2.15 oz. (10731)
* Atlantis Color Enhance Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.88 oz. (10847)
* Atlantis Betta Food, 1.2 oz. (10926)
* Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.42 oz. (88515)
* Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 0.42 oz. (88516)

More information should be found on the Sergeant web site,
http://www.sergeants.com

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22897 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Second Nature Whisper Power Filters 3 (model 3B)
Do a Google search of 'Second Nature Filter' and you will find over 9
million hits. It looks like Tetra took it over so it's now the Tetra
Whisper Power Filter. Go and compare it to the Whisper brand HOB's and see
if they've changed them much.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Venus
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 12:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Second Nature Whisper Power Filters 3 (model 3B)

Anyone have or know anything about the Second Nature Whisper Power Filter 3
(model 3B)? I got one for free with an aquarium but I am not sure if it has
all the parts and pieces and what filters to use with it.... I have searched
the internet... but can't find anything. I was hoping to use this filter to
set-up a third aquarium.

Thanks
Venus



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.13/842 - Release Date: 6/9/2007
10:46 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22898 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
We just add everything (PH, water conditioner, plant food) into the water while re-filling it. LOVE the Python for our 55 gallon, we've used one for about four years now - otherwise it would take forever to change the water!

Cynthia
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Python..


I would use the Python to refill the tank, adding my water conditioners
straight to the tank prior to the water addition.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..

Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
a bit of time.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22899 From: me Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Looking for advice on breeding green severums. We have a pair that are about 8", they were given to us as 2 males, but last week we saw a bunch of fry just becoming free swimming. We removed all the other fish out of the 110 gallon except the pair and a 10" pleco. Each day the swarm of babies had less in it until a few days later they were all gone. Every last one of them. I fed them "baby bites" which is a powder you mix in water, let set a few minutes so it is heavier for bottom feeders, and then I took a turkey baster and let the food go in the middle of the swarm so I think they were eating but I'm not sure. We really enjoyed watching the interaction but feel bad that no babies survived.

Yesterday, the pair laid hundreds of new eggs on a vertical rock. This time we were prepared and removed the rock and placed it in a bare 10 gallon with an airstone to fan it. They should hatch in a few days, then I guess it takes a few more days for the yolksac to be absorbed? So once they are free swimming, I believe they should be fed.

However, we are just getting back into fish and never raised egg layers. So maybe someone can tell us more that we should or should not do, what is best to feed them. We did send away for microworms which we received. How do we keep them alive, refrigerate? or not? How do we feed them? Should I still use the baby bites. What else?

any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22900 From: land_shapes Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice
Hank

thanks for the info, I took a water sample to a shop and they said
it was good. I've added a heater to try and keep the temp constant
as it was fluctuating day by day and was suggested that could stress
them.

will put this down to experience and hopefully learn something from
it and have better success with next attempt now that I'm more
prepared.

...at least we all know what Hydra are now :)


regards

Bob

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou
>
> Bob:
> Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you see
> there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate a
> spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
> bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
> easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did you
> bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
> because they starve to death.You have to have the right food for
them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22901 From: iluvnoni2002 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plant fo
Hi,
I have 1500 gallon pond and want to know what you use for a liquid
plant food that can handle that much water that's not expensive? One
16oz. bottle of Pond care Aquatic plant food liquid only treats 960
gallons. What do people use? Some of my floaters, and marginals are
looking yellow around the edges. I've been putting my floaters in a
small preformed pond with the liquid for a few hours a week for now,
but would prefer something that can handle my big pond. Is there a
product that can treat more then 1 time? I also use fertilizer tabs
for my potted plants. Any recommendations?
Sonia in Minnesota
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22902 From: me Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
Yes, and I am happy to get it, I want it as a reference and to read it for information. I know I can get current info on the Internet, but its nice to have a book you can just browse through. But anyway, I was never looking at it as an investment so don't really care if its THE original or a copy of the original.
Thanks Mary.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Pickles
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books


Hi,
Yes, thats what it says on the cover, I include a pic of the cover of the book I
have,copywright 1966 T.F.H.
(by the way which Betti has agreed to purchase)
Both Innes and Axelrod wrote forewards for this book and Innes praises Axlerod to the
highest degree. Innes' forward is dated Feb 18th 1966....
It is a bit dated, but still full of great advice.

I have been in the hobby most of my life, and unfortunely, I am no spring
chicken...years ago I had what I believe now to have been an original edition of
Innes, or at least a very early edition. for I remember it having drawings of fancy
ornate aquariums before the invent of air pumps and filters etc and it told where and
how to capture the fish, and how to gather the food, most if not all of it being live
food, and where the best place to get ocean water from...etc....I still might have it
somewhere...anyone know if that would be a correct assumption on my part? .after
thinking about it, the other one I spoke of in an earlier post isnt one from the
30's, but it is earlier than the one I have now prob from the 50's...I have that one
too...some where
After looking through my fish books, I think one of my favorite reference books is
"Vierke's Aquarium Book the way the Germans do it....." by Jorg Vieke 1986, TFH
pub...I think I will hang on to that one for awhile longer....Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 8:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: some fish books

Okay, I thought that's what it might have said on the cover -- I
hadn't seen this meesage of yours yet when I posted. This bears out
what I attributed to the TFH edition. Since yours was published
after 1966 and the Original edition (by Innes Publishing Co.) was
published in 1935, its obvious which edition was the "Original" one.

The Innes Publishing Company published 18 editions (1935 - May and
December, 1938, 1942, 1944, 1945, 1947, 1948, 1949, 1950, 1951
(January and July), 1953 (January and July), 1954, 1955 and 1957.
After this time, when Dr. Innes retired and sold the company in April
1959, and before the next (19th Revised) Edition was published, the
firm's name was changed to The Aquarium Publishing Company
necessitating getting another copyright before that edition was
printed in 1964 -- far before Herbert Axelrod came out with his
edition. Axelrod/TFH had absolutely nothing to do with the book at
this time; it was re-published (revised) as a successor to the Innes
Publishing Company.

The fact that your book contains photos of yet undiscovered fish at a
time when the ORIGINAL book was published indicates in itself that
your book was obviously published after the Original book and could
have in no way been the "Orginal" edition, as per your description of
your book's photos. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
wrote:
>
>
> I suppose so...
> Not sure what you are saying?
> That is what it says on the cover, I have the original , somewhere,
its got a yellow
> cover...The only difference is that this book has some added color
photos that the
> other one didnt have because those fish had yet to be discovered,
and Axelrod has
> written a foreword stating that.. Innes had to get another
copyright as the first one
> had expired on the original book so he republised the book . In
this book Innes'
> orginal color plates are reprinted in black and white with the
addition of the newer
> 70 color prints...I haven't read either book word for word...are
there any further
> differences? Still not clear on what you are saying? I am a bit
dense at times...
> Thanks...Mary
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 11:40 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
>
> Your "Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
> edition with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesn't interfere with
use.
> $1" was published some 31 years after the original publication of
> "Exotic Aquarium Fishes", by William T. Innes.
>
> What I suspect you have here is the TFH edition of the book, which
> followed the Metaframe editions which were faithful to the original
with
> newer information about some of the fishes. If I have my timeline a
bit
> wrong, I'm sure that Ray or one of the other old timers around here
can
> correct me (my bookshelf of older literature is pretty well blocked
by
> stuff my other half, so I cannot check, and need to go on memory
alone).
>
> So this book is "original" only in what Axelrod had done to it.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Pickles
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books
>
> Hi all,
> I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I
have
> decided to part with some of them. I have so many books on so many
> subjects, I just cant keep them all...
> I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the
reg
> book lists since these are all fish books...I looked them up and
got the
> discriptions from the internet. All of the books are in great
condition
> unless other wise noted...and do not inculde shipping from zip code
> 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you want to see pics
of any
> or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
>
**********************************************************************
**
> **********
> Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer
paperback
> with color plates , 80 pgs $2
> ***********************************************************
> Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
> Editorial Reviews
>
> Book Description
> These colorful fish are native to Central and South America,
Africa, and
> Asia, and hobbyists will find them available in many colors and
> varieties. Titles in the extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals
series
> provide pet owners with basic information on keeping healthy,
contented,
> well-cared-for animals. The series includes approximately 175
titles and
> covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and birds of many breeds, as
well
> as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about any other
animal
> that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
> care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming,
> training, and much more. The text in each manual is supplemented
with
> many vivid, full-color photos, and with instructive, anatomically
> accurate line art. Each manual has been individually written by a
> breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal specialist.
>
> Back Cover Copy
> Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
> a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and
more
> a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium,
feeding,
> and general care
> a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
> a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
> a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
> a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful
fish
> are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
hobbyists
> will find them available in many colors and varieties.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 96 pages
> b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition
> (November 17, 2005)
> c.. Language: English
>
>
> *****************************************************************
> All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine
> Fish like new with dust jacket
> by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews
> (Author) $5
>
> ****************************************************************
>
> Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original
edition
> with 70 new color photos 1966
> by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with
use.
> $1
>
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with
> color and black and white plates
> by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5
>
>
**********************************************************************
**
> *
>
> American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist
(Paperback)
>
> by David K. Bulloch $2
>
> Editorial Reviews
>
> From Library Journal
> Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this
book, the
> amateur marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea
life
> provide endless resources for discovery. Techniques for building
one's
> own plant press, for measuring oxygen, keeping fish alive,
preserving
> specimens, and more are covered in a concise step-by-step fashion.
How
> to write up the collected data as a creditable report is illustrated
> with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater
Naturalist .
> This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its
brevity
> will send many to other sources. For general collections.
> - Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
> Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers
to an
> out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
----
> --------
> Product Details
>
> a.. Paperback: 165 pages
> b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
> c.. Language: English
> d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
> e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
> f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
> g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
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> & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22903 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
I do the exact same thing. Adjusting the water temperature at the
tap to the same as the tank before adding.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I would use the Python to refill the tank, adding my water
conditioners
> straight to the tank prior to the water addition.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..
>
> Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
> cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
> Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
> fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
> 55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
> a bit of time.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22904 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
I AGREE WITH YOU COMPLETELY



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> I don't think that's a god comparison. You don't do water changes
that are
> anything like a toilet flushing, or as often. I still don think
live animals
> are decorations.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of memphisgirl39
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 4:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank.
I think
> its me...
>
>
>
> WHATEVER
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> Deenerz@ wrote:
> >
> >
> > My fish are used to having water changed in their OWN tank
weekly.
> If it
> > "scared" them am I supposed to stop? Sounds unhealthy.
> >
> > In a message dated 6/6/2007 8:15:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > dctn_2005@ writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To me it seemed like it scared the fish when the water went down.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** See what's free at
> http://www.aol <http://www.aol.com> com.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22905 From: Lynda Dodd Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
Thank you, Sissy. I will go get some tomorrow. I have so much to
learn. I'm grateful to be part of this group. We have a 90 gallon
tank. I read about Marine Buffer on-line and it recommends 1 tsp per
20 gallons. Is that what you would recommend?

Again, thanks
Lynda


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Everything looks good except the PH, you need 8.2 on it. Marine
buffer will do the trick on that . make sure you have a PH test kit
for salrwater. I would not do a water change yet, I dont for 6 weeks
aleast,from the start of the aquarium. How big is this tank?
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lynda Dodd
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, June 08, 2007 2:15 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Saltwater Tank Results - Advice appreciated
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22906 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: Python..
Be carefull of adding water from your hot water heater if you have copper pipes.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: kelly_anne333
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 7:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Python..



I do the exact same thing. Adjusting the water temperature at the
tap to the same as the tank before adding.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I would use the Python to refill the tank, adding my water
conditioners
> straight to the tank prior to the water addition.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 1:44 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Python..
>
> Hi, I was wondering how you all filled your tank after
> cleaning it with the python. Do you use buckets?
> Run it thru the python hose? Do you take all the
> fish out? I was just thinking of getting one for the
> 55 gallon tank because using buckets takes quite
> a bit of time.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22907 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Snails In Fish Diets
From time to time the issue of removing snails comes up on this list.
One of the recommendations is to use certain species of fish to at least
control the population. These suggestions come from anecdotal evidence
("It worked for me") rather than any studies of the diet of these fish.
Earlier this week, I read an article that may help in the decision
process when contemplating removing an excess of snails from the
aquarium.

Hagg, Wendall R., and Melvin L. Warren, Jr., 2006. Seasonal Feeding
Specialization on Snails by River Darters (_Percina shumardi_) with a
Review of Snail Feeding by Other Darter Species. Copeia 2006(4), pp.
604-612.

The authors studied two populations of the river darter in the upper
Black Warrior Drainage of Alabama. Without going into the article
extensively, they found that darters fed on other foods during the year,
mostly insects and other crustaceans, when they were plentiful, but even
at those times, snails made up about 40% of their diet. The heaviest
feeding on snails is when they were plentiful and small, just after
hatches. Another factor was the size of the fishes mouth in relation to
the size of the snails.

This last is the important factor when we are looking at snail
overpopulation in the aquarium. If you decide to utilize fish to control
the population, what size is the mouth of the fish you choose vs. the
size of the snails in the tank. If the snails are larger, you would
probably be better off using another method to control your population,
like hand crushing the snails or the old lettuce leaf in the tank trick.


This also leads one to wonder about the diets of the commonly
recommended fish in the wild, and whether snails make up a portion of
their diet or if this is just opportunistic feeding in an aquarium
setting. I have not had a chance to do any looking around in this vein
yet, but if I can keep it in mind, I'll start looking as time permits,
or I may get lucky and run across a current article covering such a
subject.

Several other articles about fish appear in this issue of Copeia, a few
new species, none of which appear to be headed for our tanks (especially
the one found under the ice near Antarctica) and studies on biological
relationships of certain fish, as well as a study showing that during
breeding season the male channel catfish is monogamous, breeding with
only one female, and one that may be of interest to those who have a
fancy for knife fish types covering _Apteronotus bonapartii_'s sexual
dimorphism.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22908 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
That is not true, and is ridiculous. Every one of my fish are pets, I can
see a distinct personality in them, and they are no more decorations than
any of my other pets. That is silly to believe breeding is the only use you
can have of fish.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 2:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its me...




Every fish in a tank in the country could be described as a decoration
unless
your are breeding for conservation purposes.

In a message dated 6/9/2007 11:22:03 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@cox. <mailto:bethmlucas%40cox.net> net writes:

I don't think that's a god comparison. You don't do water changes that are
anything like a toilet flushing, or as often. I still don think live animals
are decorations.

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22909 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
And that is not what I said.

In a message dated 6/10/2007 10:32:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@... writes:

That is silly to believe breeding is the only use you
can have of fish.





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22910 From: Beth Lucas Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
You said otherwise fish are all decorations. Maybe to you, but they are not
decorations to me, and I do not breed.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 10:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its me...




And that is not what I said.

In a message dated 6/10/2007 10:32:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@cox. <mailto:bethmlucas%40cox.net> net writes:

That is silly to believe breeding is the only use you
can have of fish.

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22911 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Thank you.

In a message dated 6/10/2007 11:10:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@... writes:

I do not breed.





************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22912 From: Paul H Date: 6/10/2007
Subject: Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I think its me...
Give it arrest u 2. We are not interested in your petty messages.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Beth Lucas
Sent: June 11, 2007 12:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its me...



You said otherwise fish are all decorations. Maybe to you, but they are not
decorations to me, and I do not breed.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 10:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: This is a weird way to make a fish tank. I
think its me...

And that is not what I said.

In a message dated 6/10/2007 10:32:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
bethmlucas@cox. <mailto:bethmlucas%40cox.net> net writes:

That is silly to believe breeding is the only use you
can have of fish.

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22913 From: Arthur Strange Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: For Sale: Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazines 1978 Vol. 1 to 1
Hi List
I moved recently into a seniors apartment and as a result I do not
have room to keep all of my books, so make me an offer for the
following:

FAMA Binder 1978 vol. 1
FAMA Binder 1978 vol. 2
FAMA Binder 1978 vol. 3
FAMA Loose 1978 vol. 4
FAMA Loose 1978 vol. 5
FAMA Loose 1978 vol. 6

also

TETRA Aquarium Digest No's. 1 to 37 and some TERA calendars.

Unfortunately I cannot ship them so they will have to be picked up in
Toronto. For more info contact me at <astrange@...>

When I have got sorted out a bit I will also have a number of
aquarium books for sale




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22914 From: Shannon Mulberry Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
The micro worms should have came with instructions in regards to how to keep cultures going (the american killifish site has some good info on cultures), I'm drawing a blank right this second.

With fry personally use liquid fry for the smaller ones (killifish, paradise, some livebearers, dwarf cichlids) for a few days or a little longer depending, with the rest of them which are med to lunker size cichlids I use walter worms, baby brine shrimp, daphnia and some crushed extremely fine flake food, Have never tried the "first bites" myself but know a few people who do use them with good results.

When I artificially hatch eggs I use methylene blue in the tank that way any eggs that turn blue(ish-white) can be seen and removed so they don't fungus surrounding eggs. They should hatch in 48 hours give or take a little depending on the tempature of the tank, from there free swimming within a couple of days which is when all the fun of feeding and watching the little ones grow (smiles!!)

Congrats on the spawn & good luck!!

Shannon

me <betti@...> wrote:
Looking for advice on breeding green severums. We have a pair that are about 8", they were given to us as 2 males, but last week we saw a bunch of fry just becoming free swimming. We removed all the other fish out of the 110 gallon except the pair and a 10" pleco. Each day the swarm of babies had less in it until a few days later they were all gone. Every last one of them. I fed them "baby bites" which is a powder you mix in water, let set a few minutes so it is heavier for bottom feeders, and then I took a turkey baster and let the food go in the middle of the swarm so I think they were eating but I'm not sure. We really enjoyed watching the interaction but feel bad that no babies survived.

Yesterday, the pair laid hundreds of new eggs on a vertical rock. This time we were prepared and removed the rock and placed it in a bare 10 gallon with an airstone to fan it. They should hatch in a few days, then I guess it takes a few more days for the yolksac to be absorbed? So once they are free swimming, I believe they should be fed.

However, we are just getting back into fish and never raised egg layers. So maybe someone can tell us more that we should or should not do, what is best to feed them. We did send away for microworms which we received. How do we keep them alive, refrigerate? or not? How do we feed them? Should I still use the baby bites. What else?

any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22915 From: Wayne Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Food Recall
Thanks for the information Steve...


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Sergeant's Pet Care Products Inc. is recalling some of its fish food
> products due to the finding of melamine in the food. This chemical
has
> been found to lead to various ailments in humans, dogs, and cats,
> illness that can lead to death.
>
> These are the recalled products. The numbers in parentheses are the
last
> five digits of the UPC code.
>
> * Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.88 oz. (10006)
> * Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 2.25 oz. (10057)
> * Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 0.75 oz. (10154)
> * Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 2.15 oz. (10731)
> * Atlantis Color Enhance Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.88 oz.
(10847)
> * Atlantis Betta Food, 1.2 oz. (10926)
> * Atlantis Tropical Fish Flake Food, 0.42 oz. (88515)
> * Atlantis Goldfish Flake Food, 0.42 oz. (88516)
>
> More information should be found on the Sergeant web site,
> http://www.sergeants.com
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22916 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: python
We have one ourselves and use it all the time. We bought ours for watergarden/pond. The only difference between the aquarium and the pond version is that it has a longer what I call the the gravel tumbler tube.

We did something this weekend to out watergarden that made a huge distance. We replaced the clear plastic tubing that connected the pump into the bog with black plastic tubing (apparentlty the clear was way too clooged with algae and debris even though we did regular cleaning). Black plastic tubing is less resistent to algae growth!

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22917 From: Paul Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Here is a link to a page about rasing microworms. I had alost a
success with this method a few years ago.

http://www.bcbetta.com/microworms.html

Paul

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Shannon Mulberry
<feather2night867@...> wrote:
>
> The micro worms should have came with instructions in regards to
how to keep cultures going (the american killifish site has some good
info on cultures), I'm drawing a blank right this second.
>
> With fry personally use liquid fry for the smaller ones
(killifish, paradise, some livebearers, dwarf cichlids) for a few
days or a little longer depending, with the rest of them which are
med to lunker size cichlids I use walter worms, baby brine shrimp,
daphnia and some crushed extremely fine flake food, Have never tried
the "first bites" myself but know a few people who do use them with
good results.
>
> When I artificially hatch eggs I use methylene blue in the tank
that way any eggs that turn blue(ish-white) can be seen and removed
so they don't fungus surrounding eggs. They should hatch in 48 hours
give or take a little depending on the tempature of the tank, from
there free swimming within a couple of days which is when all the fun
of feeding and watching the little ones grow (smiles!!)
>
> Congrats on the spawn & good luck!!
>
> Shannon
>
> me <betti@...> wrote:
> Looking for advice on breeding green severums. We have a
pair that are about 8", they were given to us as 2 males, but last
week we saw a bunch of fry just becoming free swimming. We removed
all the other fish out of the 110 gallon except the pair and a 10"
pleco. Each day the swarm of babies had less in it until a few days
later they were all gone. Every last one of them. I fed them "baby
bites" which is a powder you mix in water, let set a few minutes so
it is heavier for bottom feeders, and then I took a turkey baster and
let the food go in the middle of the swarm so I think they were
eating but I'm not sure. We really enjoyed watching the interaction
but feel bad that no babies survived.
>
> Yesterday, the pair laid hundreds of new eggs on a vertical rock.
This time we were prepared and removed the rock and placed it in a
bare 10 gallon with an airstone to fan it. They should hatch in a few
days, then I guess it takes a few more days for the yolksac to be
absorbed? So once they are free swimming, I believe they should be
fed.
>
> However, we are just getting back into fish and never raised egg
layers. So maybe someone can tell us more that we should or should
not do, what is best to feed them. We did send away for microworms
which we received. How do we keep them alive, refrigerate? or not?
How do we feed them? Should I still use the baby bites. What else?
>
> any advice will be appreciated.
> Thanks.
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on
Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22918 From: Antony Dalton Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: moisture and evaporation question
I am building an oak cabinet and hood for a 150 gallon aquarium. How
much moisture can I expect in the filter area under the tank? I'm
planning on a wet/dry filter with protein skimmer in the sump. The
top of the tank is open except for a glass stiffener across the middle
of the aquarium about 10 inches wide. The hood will have a hinged
section 8 inches wide at the front and the rest will be fixed and will
have a four tube VHO retro system attached. (The tank is 20 inches
wide.) The back of the hood will be open for cooling and ventilation.
Will I have excessive evaporation? Do I need a glass or plexiglass
cover over the top of the aquarium? Do I need any special sealer or
waterproofing for the interior of the cabinet and hood?

Thanks for the advise,
Antony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22919 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: Re: moisture and evaporation question
I would put a polyurathane seal on both the inside and outside to
help keep moisture out of the wood. Make sure to seal two or more
times so that you do not miss any spots.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Antony Dalton" <AV8RSailor@...>
wrote:
>
> I am building an oak cabinet and hood for a 150 gallon aquarium.
How
> much moisture can I expect in the filter area under the tank? I'm
> planning on a wet/dry filter with protein skimmer in the sump.
The
> top of the tank is open except for a glass stiffener across the
middle
> of the aquarium about 10 inches wide. The hood will have a hinged
> section 8 inches wide at the front and the rest will be fixed and
will
> have a four tube VHO retro system attached. (The tank is 20
inches
> wide.) The back of the hood will be open for cooling and
ventilation.
> Will I have excessive evaporation? Do I need a glass or
plexiglass
> cover over the top of the aquarium? Do I need any special sealer
or
> waterproofing for the interior of the cabinet and hood?
>
> Thanks for the advise,
> Antony
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22920 From: Richard Rattie Date: 6/11/2007
Subject: test run - underwater camera
Well, we did a test run with our underwater camera we bought via Ebay for under $75 (that included shipping and handling). I did not have all the necessary equipment earlier to hook the camera up since they did not include ac adapter luckily Wes had an extra one we could use. We plugged it into the VCR and whamm bamm we had fish vision. We are going to play around with it more on his weekend (Thurs-Fri).

Btw it was wild. You should see it on my flatscreen tv in the living room. We will figure out how to convert the image to video that can viewed on the computer just may take awhile to figure it out all out. We could make out the Shubunkins and Comet as well as one point one of the Golden Apple Snail that climbing the wall of the water garden. Hopefully we will have some test images/video within the next few weeks.

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22921 From: me Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Thank you. Thats very informative.

Does anyone know how long it takes for Green Severum eggs to hatch?

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Paul
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 12:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions


Here is a link to a page about rasing microworms. I had alost a
success with this method a few years ago.

http://www.bcbetta.com/microworms.html

Paul
.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22922 From: Barbara Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plan
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "iluvnoni2002" <cantin@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have 1500 gallon pond and want to know what you use for a liquid
> plant food that can handle that much water that's not expensive? One
> 16oz. bottle of Pond care Aquatic plant food liquid only treats 960
> gallons. What do people use? Some of my floaters, and marginals are
> looking yellow around the edges. I've been putting my floaters in a
> small preformed pond with the liquid for a few hours a week for now,
> but would prefer something that can handle my big pond. Is there a
> product that can treat more then 1 time? I also use fertilizer tabs
> for my potted plants. Any recommendations?
> Sonia in Minnesota
>

The only way I know of is to use the fertilizer tabs.. I do this at
the start of the season, and again as the temp rises. YOUR fish should
supply a lot of Nitrates for them to eat off of, but some other
nutricients they need to have other means of getting it.. Liquid is
expensive and I only use it in a tub, like what you are doing now..
the tabs will give them all they need for months.. AND they wont'
create a algae bloom like the liquid can do once it gets hot.. it is
hard to have worrie free plants in a pond.. Cutting off the yellow
leaves incourages the plant to produce more.. best to do so after you
add in the tabs thou... I didnt' do anything to mine as in repot and
fertilize them and they are all green and flurishing this summer.. My
small pond is only 150 gal but it is in two sections, an upper and a
lower 100 gal.. Hope this helps you.. Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22923 From: coryswalter Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Saltwater Tank
When we move in a couple of months, we are going to turn our 30gal
freshwater tank into a saltwater tank. Can anyone give me the name of
a good "Saltwater Tanks for Dummies" resource to get this started.
Thanks in advance.....Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22924 From: Sonia cantin Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plan
Thanks for the info, good to know. I had know idea.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Barbara
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2007 3:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond
Liquid Plant food?



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"iluvnoni2002" <cantin@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have 1500 gallon pond and want to know what you use for a liquid
> plant food that can handle that much water that's not expensive? One
> 16oz. bottle of Pond care Aquatic plant food liquid only treats 960
> gallons. What do people use? Some of my floaters, and marginals are
> looking yellow around the edges. I've been putting my floaters in a
> small preformed pond with the liquid for a few hours a week for now,
> but would prefer something that can handle my big pond. Is there a
> product that can treat more then 1 time? I also use fertilizer tabs
> for my potted plants. Any recommendations?
> Sonia in Minnesota
>

The only way I know of is to use the fertilizer tabs.. I do this at
the start of the season, and again as the temp rises. YOUR fish should
supply a lot of Nitrates for them to eat off of, but some other
nutricients they need to have other means of getting it.. Liquid is
expensive and I only use it in a tub, like what you are doing now..
the tabs will give them all they need for months.. AND they wont'
create a algae bloom like the liquid can do once it gets hot.. it is
hard to have worrie free plants in a pond.. Cutting off the yellow
leaves incourages the plant to produce more.. best to do so after you
add in the tabs thou... I didnt' do anything to mine as in repot and
fertilize them and they are all green and flurishing this summer.. My
small pond is only 150 gal but it is in two sections, an upper and a
lower 100 gal.. Hope this helps you.. Barb





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22925 From: bigechillin Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank
I plan on doing the same thing to my 60 gallon tank, let me know aswell.
Thanks



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
wrote:
>
> When we move in a couple of months, we are going to turn our 30gal
> freshwater tank into a saltwater tank. Can anyone give me the name
of
> a good "Saltwater Tanks for Dummies" resource to get this started.
> Thanks in advance.....Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22926 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: Re: Saltwater Tank
WetWebMedia.com






-----Original Message-----
From: bigechillin <bigechillin@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 7:08 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Saltwater Tank









I plan on doing the same thing to my 60 gallon tank, let me know aswell.
Thanks

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
wrote:
>
> When we move in a couple of months, we are going to turn our 30gal
> freshwater tank into a saltwater tank. Can anyone give me the name
of
> a good "Saltwater Tanks for Dummies" resource to get this started.
> Thanks in advance.....Cory
>





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22927 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/12/2007
Subject: New freshwater tank
Hi -

Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just got my
first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater. Had
it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios and
1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming fine,
not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia and
all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has just
started having what looks like dust particles floating around in it.
Is this part of the bacteria bloom?

I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water change
with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.

Advice?

Thanks!
Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22928 From: Just ask me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Clown fish and sea horse breeding
View the video clips for detailed idea about fish breeding at Clown fish
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/2007/06/clown-fish-nemo-breeding.h\
tml> & Sea horse
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/2007/06/sea-horse-breeding.html>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22929 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New freshwater tank
I think you might need to separate the betta. Maybe others will chime in as
the day progresses.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 12:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New freshwater tank



Hi -

Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just got my
first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater. Had
it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios and
1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming fine,
not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia and
all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has just
started having what looks like dust particles floating around in it.
Is this part of the bacteria bloom?

I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water change
with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.

Advice?

Thanks!
Tracy





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22930 From: hank voss Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, me <betti@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you. Thats very informative.
>
> Does anyone know how long it takes for Green Severum eggs to hatch?
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
> ============================
Around 3 days depending on temp.
> Hank
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22931 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
It might be an algae bloom. If it starts to get stuck on the sides,
you might want to get some snails or plecos to eat it. Keep an eye
on the betta and make sure he doesn't snip at the other fish. I'm
sure you know what type of fish the betta is and what they are known
for, but I've heard of plenty of people that can have their betta co-
exist with other fish just fine in the same tank. I unfortunatly
can not have my betta with other fish. He ate a whole guppy in
front of my eyes! Good luck!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just
got my
> first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater.
Had
> it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios
and
> 1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming
fine,
> not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia
and
> all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has
just
> started having what looks like dust particles floating around in
it.
> Is this part of the bacteria bloom?
>
> I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water change
> with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.
>
> Advice?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22932 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Could the dust particles be coming off of your gravel? As the water circulates, it sometimes brings very small gravel particles up from the bottom and it looks like dust in and on the water. About your betta, you didn't state what the new fish were, but if your betta is a really docile betta it can cohabitate with some other fish. I have one in a tank with 3 angels, 2 red platies and 2 corys and they swim together, eat together and get along great. Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: jamakinmecrazy1 <jamakinmecrazy1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 12:37:26 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] New freshwater tank

Hi -

Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just got my
first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater. Had
it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios and
1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming fine,
not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia and
all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has just
started having what looks like dust particles floating around in it.
Is this part of the bacteria bloom?

I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water change
with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.

Advice?

Thanks!
Tracy






____________________________________________________________________________________
Expecting? Get great news right away with email Auto-Check.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22933 From: jett07002 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Hi Tracy, Welcome to our group.

48 hours is not a long enough time for the nitrogen cycle ---or "tank
cycling", if you will----to take place. So, I personally would not
start changing water already. The reason your readings are good so
far is that a 50 gallon tank is "big" for the amount of fish you put
in there. This is a good thing. Usually people want to put way too
many fish in the tank.

The comment about removing the betta may have some validity if the
danios start to nip at those very tempting long fins. They don't mean
any harm, but danios are very active fish, almost never stop swimming
back and forth and will probably annoy the hell out of the betta. But
see what happens. They have plenty of room, so they may not bother
him/her.

Keep checking your readings on the tank. The "cycle" should take at
least 2 - 3 weeks. During this time, you will start to see changes in
the readings, especially for ammonia. That's the time to start making
PWCs. If you keep only the fish you have in there now for awhile, it
will not be difficult to control.

I know the Python makes it easy, but don't do drastic water changes.
They should be done religiously, but not drastically, unless you have
a problem. With a tank your size about a 10% water change (doesn't
have to be exact) about once a week or two will be fine. Later, if
you add more fish then the maintenance requirements will change.

Also, having two filters running is a great idea. Don't keep changing
the filter media. Give the bacteria a chance to take hold. When you
do change the filters, don't change both at the same time. Clean out
one, leave the other. Give the "clean" filter time to establish, then
you can change the "dirty" filter, etc.

Good luck.

joe t.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just got my
> first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater. Had
> it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios and
> 1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming fine,
> not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia and
> all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has just
> started having what looks like dust particles floating around in it.
> Is this part of the bacteria bloom?
>
> I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water change
> with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.
>
> Advice?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22934 From: me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Thanks Hank,
I just found that out LOL. They laid Saturday evening and last nite I saw the rock was squirming with tons of little ones. I believe it takes a few more days before they are free swimming? And once they become free swimming thats when we start feeding them?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey
betti@...

----- Original Message -----
From: hank voss
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 6:40 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, me <betti@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you. Thats very informative.
>
> Does anyone know how long it takes for Green Severum eggs to hatch?
>
> Betti-A Jersey Girl
> betti@...
> ============================
Around 3 days depending on temp.
> Hank

.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22935 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Thank you everyone for your advice! It's much appreciated. My betta
leaves the danios alone and the danios are leaving him alone so all
seems to be well there. I figured they would probably be ok since
the tank was large enough being a 52gal flatback hex. The betta
likes to hang out near the tallest plant I put in a corner for him
that just breaks the surface and there is less water flow there from
the filters - either that or he hangs out at the other end by the
heater. He didn't want to swim much this morning and the test strip
showed a little ammonia this morning. He didn't come up to the
surface for this morning so I didn't want to put food in for him.
I'll feed him tonight when I see he's hanging out by the plant. He
ate 4 pellets yesterday though so shouldn't be a problem I'm thinking.

I've got the tank at 78 degrees and the bubble wand going so I'm
hoping the cycling won't hurt my fish too bad. Since the test strip
showed a little ammonia this morning (barely read in the stress
color) I think I'll go ahead with the 10% water change tonight. I
don't want to stress my fish too much if I can help it.

Once the 30 days for cycling are over I had planned on adding a few
fish a week. Go my eye on a catfish!

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Tracy, Welcome to our group.
>
> 48 hours is not a long enough time for the nitrogen cycle ---
or "tank
> cycling", if you will----to take place. So, I personally would not
> start changing water already. The reason your readings are good so
> far is that a 50 gallon tank is "big" for the amount of fish you put
> in there. This is a good thing. Usually people want to put way too
> many fish in the tank.
>
> The comment about removing the betta may have some validity if the
> danios start to nip at those very tempting long fins. They don't
mean
> any harm, but danios are very active fish, almost never stop
swimming
> back and forth and will probably annoy the hell out of the betta.
But
> see what happens. They have plenty of room, so they may not bother
> him/her.
>
> Keep checking your readings on the tank. The "cycle" should take at
> least 2 - 3 weeks. During this time, you will start to see changes
in
> the readings, especially for ammonia. That's the time to start
making
> PWCs. If you keep only the fish you have in there now for awhile,
it
> will not be difficult to control.
>
> I know the Python makes it easy, but don't do drastic water
changes.
> They should be done religiously, but not drastically, unless you
have
> a problem. With a tank your size about a 10% water change (doesn't
> have to be exact) about once a week or two will be fine. Later, if
> you add more fish then the maintenance requirements will change.
>
> Also, having two filters running is a great idea. Don't keep
changing
> the filter media. Give the bacteria a chance to take hold. When
you
> do change the filters, don't change both at the same time. Clean
out
> one, leave the other. Give the "clean" filter time to establish,
then
> you can change the "dirty" filter, etc.
>
> Good luck.
>
> joe t.
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
> <jamakinmecrazy1@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi -
> >
> > Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just
got my
> > first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater.
Had
> > it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios
and
> > 1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming
fine,
> > not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia
and
> > all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has
just
> > started having what looks like dust particles floating around in
it.
> > Is this part of the bacteria bloom?
> >
> > I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water
change
> > with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.
> >
> > Advice?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22936 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Hi Tracy,



The cycling could take longer and sometimes goes for six weeks.

Rather than a water change I would recommend getting some Stability from
SeaChem. It should be available at most decent fish shops. It will greatly
reduce the stress on your fish. The stress could cause an outbreak of
disease from the cycling which could add more of a headache.

Probably the best way to go is with Bio-Spira if you can find it which will
instantly cycle your tank.

These are the only two commercially available product I would recommend
because everything else is pretty much snake oil.

Just keep an eye on your nitrates. When they start increasing your cycle is
working. That is when you really should start with the water changes.

If you start changing the water you’re going to prolong the length of time
it takes to cycle the tank.

One other product I highly recommend using is Prime for Dechlorinating
water. It will also help reduce the toxic effects of nitrite with ought
delaying the cycling.

I used stability in a 55g a month or so ago and it did what is says on the
label and greatly reduced the cycling time.



Paul.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 13, 2007 9:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank



Thank you everyone for your advice! It's much appreciated. My betta
leaves the danios alone and the danios are leaving him alone so all
seems to be well there. I figured they would probably be ok since
the tank was large enough being a 52gal flatback hex. The betta
likes to hang out near the tallest plant I put in a corner for him
that just breaks the surface and there is less water flow there from
the filters - either that or he hangs out at the other end by the
heater. He didn't want to swim much this morning and the test strip
showed a little ammonia this morning. He didn't come up to the
surface for this morning so I didn't want to put food in for him.
I'll feed him tonight when I see he's hanging out by the plant. He
ate 4 pellets yesterday though so shouldn't be a problem I'm thinking.

I've got the tank at 78 degrees and the bubble wand going so I'm
hoping the cycling won't hurt my fish too bad. Since the test strip
showed a little ammonia this morning (barely read in the stress
color) I think I'll go ahead with the 10% water change tonight. I
don't want to stress my fish too much if I can help it.

Once the 30 days for cycling are over I had planned on adding a few
fish a week. Go my eye on a catfish!

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Tracy, Welcome to our group.
>
> 48 hours is not a long enough time for the nitrogen cycle ---
or "tank
> cycling", if you will----to take place. So, I personally would not
> start changing water already. The reason your readings are good so
> far is that a 50 gallon tank is "big" for the amount of fish you put
> in there. This is a good thing. Usually people want to put way too
> many fish in the tank.
>
> The comment about removing the betta may have some validity if the
> danios start to nip at those very tempting long fins. They don't
mean
> any harm, but danios are very active fish, almost never stop
swimming
> back and forth and will probably annoy the hell out of the betta.
But
> see what happens. They have plenty of room, so they may not bother
> him/her.
>
> Keep checking your readings on the tank. The "cycle" should take at
> least 2 - 3 weeks. During this time, you will start to see changes
in
> the readings, especially for ammonia. That's the time to start
making
> PWCs. If you keep only the fish you have in there now for awhile,
it
> will not be difficult to control.
>
> I know the Python makes it easy, but don't do drastic water
changes.
> They should be done religiously, but not drastically, unless you
have
> a problem. With a tank your size about a 10% water change (doesn't
> have to be exact) about once a week or two will be fine. Later, if
> you add more fish then the maintenance requirements will change.
>
> Also, having two filters running is a great idea. Don't keep
changing
> the filter media. Give the bacteria a chance to take hold. When
you
> do change the filters, don't change both at the same time. Clean
out
> one, leave the other. Give the "clean" filter time to establish,
then
> you can change the "dirty" filter, etc.
>
> Good luck.
>
> joe t.
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "jamakinmecrazy1"
> <jamakinmecrazy1@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi -
> >
> > Just want to make sure I'm doing everything right here. I just
got my
> > first tank. It's 52 gallon, have 2 Emperor 400's and a heater.
Had
> > it set up and running for 48 hours before I brought home 5 danios
and
> > 1 betta. All seem to be doing just fine, eating well, swimming
fine,
> > not gasping for air. My test strips are still showing no ammonia
and
> > all the other tests are showing in the safe area. My tank has
just
> > started having what looks like dust particles floating around in
it.
> > Is this part of the bacteria bloom?
> >
> > I added fish on Sunday so was planning on doing a 10% water
change
> > with my Python gravel filter tomorrow.
> >
> > Advice?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22937 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
I currently have an unoccupied 20gal tank and was thinking
freshwater. I already have a 55 gal SW set-up and just want this one
to be FW. Any ideas on what to put in it? Difficulty is not a
problem, I just can't seem to find anything that I'm interested in.
Help!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22938 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Thanks Paul! This is where I get confused. On most sites I've
visited they really don't like the chemically induced cycle changes
and say to just wait it out. When I key in New Tank Syndrome in
google the sites I visit have mostly said partial water changes at
day 5 as that is when the ammonia is supposed to hit it's peak. Then
I've read that any ammonia is bad and that partial water changes help
the fish and that adding chemicals could just complicate things for
me.

I read it also gets bad on Day 14 or so with the nitrites (think it
was that and not nitrates?) and again a partial water change.

Is this one of those everyone does it differently kind of things? I
just want what's best for my fish. :O)

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Tracy,
>
>
>
> The cycling could take longer and sometimes goes for six weeks.
>
> Rather than a water change I would recommend getting some Stability
from
> SeaChem. It should be available at most decent fish shops. It
will greatly
> reduce the stress on your fish. The stress could cause an outbreak
of
> disease from the cycling which could add more of a headache.
>
> Probably the best way to go is with Bio-Spira if you can find it
which will
> instantly cycle your tank.
>
> These are the only two commercially available product I would
recommend
> because everything else is pretty much snake oil.
>
> Just keep an eye on your nitrates. When they start increasing your
cycle is
> working. That is when you really should start with the water
changes.
>
> If you start changing the water you're going to prolong the length
of time
> it takes to cycle the tank.
>
> One other product I highly recommend using is Prime for
Dechlorinating
> water. It will also help reduce the toxic effects of nitrite with
ought
> delaying the cycling.
>
> I used stability in a 55g a month or so ago and it did what is says
on the
> label and greatly reduced the cycling time.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22939 From: hank voss Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Betti:
They should be free swimming by the weekend,and should start
them off on baby brine shrimp.Are you raising them with the parents?
Regards Hank
>



> Thanks Hank,
> I just found that out LOL. They laid Saturday evening and last nite
I saw the rock was squirming with tons of little ones. I believe it
takes a few more days before they are free swimming? And once they
become free swimming thats when we start feeding them?
> Thanks.
>
> Betti-A Jersey
> betti@...
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22940 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
Try planted Crystal Red Shrimp tank.



I have a bit of info for them on my new site Dwarfpuffers.com



Thanks for the opportunity for a shameless plug! J



Dwarf Puffers are interesting as well: Dwarfpuffers.com



Actually shrimpnow.com is a probably the best freshwater shrimp info site.



Just thoughts.

Hope it helps.



Paul.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jessica
Sent: June 13, 2007 11:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.



I currently have an unoccupied 20gal tank and was thinking
freshwater. I already have a 55 gal SW set-up and just want this one
to be FW. Any ideas on what to put in it? Difficulty is not a
problem, I just can't seem to find anything that I'm interested in.
Help!!!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22941 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: acrylic aquarium
I was wondering, could a pleco scratch an acrylic aquarium through their
algae grazing off of the sides?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22942 From: Paul H Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Hi Tracy,



That seems kind of fast the 5 day 14 day thing. I really don’t think it
goes that fast. Could be though. I just start tanks using media from
established and well cycled tanks and it’s been a long time since I started
from scratch. Although the getting the cycle going and stable thing is
probably a lot more import to me now than even before if you can imagine. I
digress.



Anyway ammonia isn’t bad. It’s our friend! J

Really. We need it to keep the cycle alive. Although what is produced is
consumed or converted before we can really measure it when your tank is
cycled. Plants love ammonia!

Any way nitrifying bacteria love it as well and turn it into nitrite and
later less toxic nitrate that plants love as well but can become toxic and
that’s mostly why we do water changes to get rid of the excess nitrate.

The Bio-Spira is the only true product available that is nitrifying
bacteria. It has to remain refrigerated and if it warms up it consumes all
its food and dies. Works really well if you can find it.

The Seachem’s Stability increases the rate that nitrifies produce, actually
I’m not really sure how it works and could be bunkish like the hundreds of
other cycle products out there. I’m spelling nitrifiyers wrong I just know
it.

Anyway Prime does not remove nitrite it just converts it into a non toxic
version of nitrite , and maybe works for ammonia the same but I would have
to read the label, so it does not mess with the cycle and itself is consumed
by the cycle proccess.

See what I mean? We want to speed and strengthen the growth of
nitrification so any ammonia produced is consumed or rather converted to
nitrite and then nitrate,(nitrification process, AKA Cycle). Doing a water
change will lower the amount of food, ammonia and nitrite, for the
nitrification process. If that is desirable for you that’s okay. Patience
is definitely a virtue in this hobby.

If you have a fish you want it to be hardy to survive that first ammonia
spike. More fish means a bigger spike! Then comes the nitrite spike, then
a stable process starts.

Another couple of things to mention for a complete article are….

When you rinse your filters be gentle because nitrifying bacteria live
mainly where there is water flow and that means probably 90% are in your
filter media. I’m guessing at that number but most of its there. J

Rinse filters in original tank water of close temperature gently is my
advice.

Test kits are fine but don’t forget to observe your fish. If they seem to
be really stressing I would do a bit of a water change and use some Prime.
I mean it. Prime is the…. Pooh! J

Buy some. Do it. Do it now. No really it is the best water conditioner.
Ask around. J



PS I don’t like pythons because of the risk of adding copper, calcium, etc
from hot water tanks which can be deadly to my shrimps. It’s an expensive
garden hose to put water in my 20 to 30 gallon prep buckets. I warm the
water with tank heaters. Its more work but I have never ever had disease in
my regular tanks. Stress causes disease. Well that and not using a
quarantine tank. And buying fish from wally world. No offense heartles
bstard wally worlders. But thanks for the cheap heaters.

I don’t mean with one use but years of using hot water tank water can mess
things up in my opinion.



Anyway I hope this helps. I love this hobby and its sad to see people lose
fish and interest because of lack of knowing. It is a good way to get cheap
equipment however. I’m bad. J

There is different takes like fishless cycling but new data says that sucks.
And no I won’t argue the point with other readers. It sucks, Bite me!

Bio-Spira Rocks although I can’t get it in my part of the world. L



Good luck Tracy,



Happy fish keeping.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 13, 2007 11:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank



Thanks Paul! This is where I get confused. On most sites I've
visited they really don't like the chemically induced cycle changes
and say to just wait it out. When I key in New Tank Syndrome in
google the sites I visit have mostly said partial water changes at
day 5 as that is when the ammonia is supposed to hit it's peak. Then
I've read that any ammonia is bad and that partial water changes help
the fish and that adding chemicals could just complicate things for
me.

I read it also gets bad on Day 14 or so with the nitrites (think it
was that and not nitrates?) and again a partial water change.

Is this one of those everyone does it differently kind of things? I
just want what's best for my fish. :O)

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Tracy,
>
>
>
> The cycling could take longer and sometimes goes for six weeks.
>
> Rather than a water change I would recommend getting some Stability
from
> SeaChem. It should be available at most decent fish shops. It
will greatly
> reduce the stress on your fish. The stress could cause an outbreak
of
> disease from the cycling which could add more of a headache.
>
> Probably the best way to go is with Bio-Spira if you can find it
which will
> instantly cycle your tank.
>
> These are the only two commercially available product I would
recommend
> because everything else is pretty much snake oil.
>
> Just keep an eye on your nitrates. When they start increasing your
cycle is
> working. That is when you really should start with the water
changes.
>
> If you start changing the water you're going to prolong the length
of time
> it takes to cycle the tank.
>
> One other product I highly recommend using is Prime for
Dechlorinating
> water. It will also help reduce the toxic effects of nitrite with
ought
> delaying the cycling.
>
> I used stability in a 55g a month or so ago and it did what is says
on the
> label and greatly reduced the cycling time.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22943 From: Jessica Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
Thanks for the link to your site. I have been posting everywhere
and nobody mentioned dwarf puffers to me. I LOVE that idea. I have
a fasination for puffers and I thought it would never happen! Thank
you, thank you, thank you!!!

By the way, I love your site. Very informative!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Try planted Crystal Red Shrimp tank.
>
>
>
> I have a bit of info for them on my new site Dwarfpuffers.com
>
>
>
> Thanks for the opportunity for a shameless plug! J
>
>
>
> Dwarf Puffers are interesting as well: Dwarfpuffers.com
>
>
>
> Actually shrimpnow.com is a probably the best freshwater shrimp
info site.
>
>
>
> Just thoughts.
>
> Hope it helps.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jessica
> Sent: June 13, 2007 11:18 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Occupants for a 20gal FW aquarium.
>
>
>
> I currently have an unoccupied 20gal tank and was thinking
> freshwater. I already have a 55 gal SW set-up and just want this
one
> to be FW. Any ideas on what to put in it? Difficulty is not a
> problem, I just can't seem to find anything that I'm interested
in.
> Help!!!
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22944 From: me Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions
Hi Hank,
This time we are not raising them with the parents. A week or 2 ago we discovered babies just starting to become free swimming with our 2 supposedly males. It was fascinating to watch, they were such good parents, we removed all the other fish except a large pleco. Well hundreds of babies dwindled to none in a few days, dont know if pleco ate them, the parents, or they starved. I dont think they starved though as I used baby bites squirted into the middle of the school.
But they started the mating dance soon after and Sat we saw her laying the eggs. So this time we removed the spawning rock and put it into a 10 gallon with an air stone. Hoping to have better luck this time.
The parents are looking like they want to spawn again already. So if this experiment doesn't work, I guess next time we will remove the pleco, and either let them try again, or remove the free swimmers into their own tank.
Soon we have to set this pair up in their own tank, as its the 110 gallon display tank they now have to their own and we would like to put the other fish back in and probably set them up in their own 40.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...

----- Original Message -----
From: hank voss
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Green Severum Breeding Questions


Betti:
They should be free swimming by the weekend,and should start
them off on baby brine shrimp.Are you raising them with the parents?
Regards Hank
>

> Thanks Hank,
> I just found that out LOL. They laid Saturday evening and last nite
I saw the rock was squirming with tons of little ones. I believe it
takes a few more days before they are free swimming? And once they
become free swimming thats when we start feeding them?
> Thanks.
>
> Betti-A Jersey
> betti@...
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22945 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: acrylic aquarium
I had a 4" that grew to a 10" common pleco in my 65G new acrylic tank in
2005 and as of now, two years later, no scratches on the inside and only a
minor one on the outside that happened during a recent move. I need to buff
it out... a good thing about acrylic tanks is they can be buffed out. BTW,
my pleco kept my 65G spotless on the inside.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] acrylic aquarium

I was wondering, could a pleco scratch an acrylic aquarium through their
algae grazing off of the sides?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/847 - Release Date: 6/12/2007
9:42 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22946 From: Pickles Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: some fish books
HI Betti!
I got your letter today with the $$ in it...Thank you!...and will be mailing the
books tomorrow AM....I'll include Delivery Conformation that way we'll both be able
to tell where its at in its journey through snail mail....Thanks again and please let
me know when they get to your house! :>) .....Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "me" <betti@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] some fish books


Hi Mary,
I'm very interested in the Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
and if we get that then also Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the
original edition with 70 new color photos 1966 by William T. Innes (Author) taped
spine but doesnt interfer with use. $1

We have recently started an African chiclid tank and a South American chiclid tank
and have lots to learn. Please let me know how much shipped to zip code 07731
(Howell, NJ)
Would you like Paypal or a check?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


----- Original Message -----
From: Pickles
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2007 2:47 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] some fish books


Hi all,
I have been going through my books again, packing them away and I have decided to
part with some of them. I have so many books on so many subjects, I just cant keep
them all...
I thought I'd offer some to this group before posting them to the reg book lists
since these are all fish books...I looked them up and got the discriptions from the
internet. All of the books are in great condition unless other wise noted...and do
not inculde shipping from zip code 97386 ,(Oregon) media mail...let me know if you
want to see pics of any or all of the books, no problem...thanks...Mary
**********************************************************************************
Tropical Fish a Complete pet owner's manual by Helga Braemer paperback with color
plates , 80 pgs $2
***********************************************************
Cichlids a Complete pet owners manual $2
Editorial Reviews

Book Description
These colorful fish are native to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and
hobbyists will find them available in many colors and varieties. Titles in the
extensive Complete Pet Owner's Manuals series provide pet owners with basic
information on keeping healthy, contented, well-cared-for animals. The series
includes approximately 175 titles and covers pets of every kind: dogs, cats, and
birds of many breeds, as well as fish, reptiles, rabbits, hamsters, and just about
any other animal that people keep as a pet. Facts and advice cover all aspects of pet
care, which include proper feeding, housing, health care, grooming, training, and
much more. The text in each manual is supplemented with many vivid, full-color
photos, and with instructive, anatomically accurate line art. Each manual has been
individually written by a breeder, trainer, veterinarian, or experienced animal
specialist.

Back Cover Copy
Information and advice to help you care for your Cichlids.
a.. Typical Cichlids: life cycles, size and appearance, traits, and more
a.. Expert advice: purchase, keeping fishes in your aquarium, feeding, and general
care
a.. Appreciating Cichlids: observing their behavior in your tank
a.. Advice and everyday care of cichlids
a.. Informative and attractive charts, tables, and maps
a.. Filled with full-color photos and illustrationsThese colorful fish are native
to Central and South America, Africa, and Asia, and hobbyists will find them
available in many colors and varieties.

----------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 96 pages
b.. Publisher: Barron''s Educational Series; 2nd edition (November 17, 2005)
c.. Language: English


*****************************************************************
All About Tropical Fish (Hardcover) fourth edition ,Includes Marine Fish like new
with dust jacket
by Derek McInerny (Author), Geoffrey Gerard (Author), Chris Andrews (Author) $5

****************************************************************

Exotic Aquarium Fishes the Innes Book (Hardcover) the original edition with 70 new
color photos 1966
by William T. Innes (Author) taped spine but doesnt interfer with use. $1

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Handbook of Tropical Aquarium Fishes (Hardcover) 1990 addition with color and black
and white plates
by Herbert R. Axelrod (Author), Leonard P. Schultz (Author) $5

*************************************************************************

American Littoral Society Handbook for the Marine Naturalist (Paperback)
by David K. Bulloch $2

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Armed with the methods of scientific inquiry described in this book, the amateur
marine naturalist will find that the varied forms of sea life provide endless
resources for discovery. Techniques for building one's own plant press, for measuring
oxygen, keeping fish alive, preserving specimens, and more are covered in a concise
step-by-step fashion. How to write up the collected data as a creditable report is
illustrated with sample reports reprinted from the journal Underwater Naturalist .
This book serves well as an introduction for the novice, but its brevity will send
many to other sources. For general collections.
- Frank Reiser, Nassau Community Coll., Garden City, N.Y.
Copyright 1991 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to an out of
print or unavailable edition of this title.

----------------------------------------------------------
Product Details

a.. Paperback: 165 pages
b.. Publisher: Walker & Company (September 1991)
c.. Language: English
d.. ISBN-10: 0802773532
e.. ISBN-13: 978-0802773531
f.. Product Dimensions: 8.5 x 5.5 x 0.8 inches
g.. Shipping Weight: 8 ounces


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22947 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
For my tank, I had ammonia from Day 3 to Day 10. I had Nitrite from Day 6
to Day 21. And I had Nitrate beginning on Day 9. I have heard that my
cycle was shorter than usual.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 4:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank



Hi Tracy,

That seems kind of fast the 5 day 14 day thing. I really don’t think it
goes that fast. Could be though. I just start tanks using media from
established and well cycled tanks and it’s been a long time since I started
from scratch. Although the getting the cycle going and stable thing is
probably a lot more import to me now than even before if you can imagine. I
digress.

Anyway ammonia isn’t bad. It’s our friend! J

Really. We need it to keep the cycle alive. Although what is produced is
consumed or converted before we can really measure it when your tank is
cycled. Plants love ammonia!

Any way nitrifying bacteria love it as well and turn it into nitrite and
later less toxic nitrate that plants love as well but can become toxic and
that’s mostly why we do water changes to get rid of the excess nitrate.

The Bio-Spira is the only true product available that is nitrifying
bacteria. It has to remain refrigerated and if it warms up it consumes all
its food and dies. Works really well if you can find it.

The Seachem’s Stability increases the rate that nitrifies produce, actually
I’m not really sure how it works and could be bunkish like the hundreds of
other cycle products out there. I’m spelling nitrifiyers wrong I just know
it.

Anyway Prime does not remove nitrite it just converts it into a non toxic
version of nitrite , and maybe works for ammonia the same but I would have
to read the label, so it does not mess with the cycle and itself is consumed
by the cycle proccess.

See what I mean? We want to speed and strengthen the growth of
nitrification so any ammonia produced is consumed or rather converted to
nitrite and then nitrate,(nitrification process, AKA Cycle). Doing a water
change will lower the amount of food, ammonia and nitrite, for the
nitrification process. If that is desirable for you that’s okay. Patience
is definitely a virtue in this hobby.

If you have a fish you want it to be hardy to survive that first ammonia
spike. More fish means a bigger spike! Then comes the nitrite spike, then
a stable process starts.

Another couple of things to mention for a complete article are….

When you rinse your filters be gentle because nitrifying bacteria live
mainly where there is water flow and that means probably 90% are in your
filter media. I’m guessing at that number but most of its there. J

Rinse filters in original tank water of close temperature gently is my
advice.

Test kits are fine but don’t forget to observe your fish. If they seem to
be really stressing I would do a bit of a water change and use some Prime.
I mean it. Prime is the…. Pooh! J

Buy some. Do it. Do it now. No really it is the best water conditioner.
Ask around. J

PS I don’t like pythons because of the risk of adding copper, calcium, etc
from hot water tanks which can be deadly to my shrimps. It’s an expensive
garden hose to put water in my 20 to 30 gallon prep buckets. I warm the
water with tank heaters. Its more work but I have never ever had disease in
my regular tanks. Stress causes disease. Well that and not using a
quarantine tank. And buying fish from wally world. No offense heartles
bstard wally worlders. But thanks for the cheap heaters.

I don’t mean with one use but years of using hot water tank water can mess
things up in my opinion.

Anyway I hope this helps. I love this hobby and its sad to see people lose
fish and interest because of lack of knowing. It is a good way to get cheap
equipment however. I’m bad. J

There is different takes like fishless cycling but new data says that sucks.
And no I won’t argue the point with other readers. It sucks, Bite me!

Bio-Spira Rocks although I can’t get it in my part of the world. L

Good luck Tracy,

Happy fish keeping.

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 13, 2007 11:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank

Thanks Paul! This is where I get confused. On most sites I've
visited they really don't like the chemically induced cycle changes
and say to just wait it out. When I key in New Tank Syndrome in
google the sites I visit have mostly said partial water changes at
day 5 as that is when the ammonia is supposed to hit it's peak. Then
I've read that any ammonia is bad and that partial water changes help
the fish and that adding chemicals could just complicate things for
me.

I read it also gets bad on Day 14 or so with the nitrites (think it
was that and not nitrates?) and again a partial water change.

Is this one of those everyone does it differently kind of things? I
just want what's best for my fish. :O)

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Tracy,
>
>
>
> The cycling could take longer and sometimes goes for six weeks.
>
> Rather than a water change I would recommend getting some Stability
from
> SeaChem. It should be available at most decent fish shops. It
will greatly
> reduce the stress on your fish. The stress could cause an outbreak
of
> disease from the cycling which could add more of a headache.
>
> Probably the best way to go is with Bio-Spira if you can find it
which will
> instantly cycle your tank.
>
> These are the only two commercially available product I would
recommend
> because everything else is pretty much snake oil.
>
> Just keep an eye on your nitrates. When they start increasing your
cycle is
> working. That is when you really should start with the water
changes.
>
> If you start changing the water you're going to prolong the length
of time
> it takes to cycle the tank.
>
> One other product I highly recommend using is Prime for
Dechlorinating
> water. It will also help reduce the toxic effects of nitrite with
ought
> delaying the cycling.
>
> I used stability in a 55g a month or so ago and it did what is says
on the
> label and greatly reduced the cycling time.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22948 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: ] New Here! Anyone have a recommendation for Pond Liquid Plant
Fish do provide nitrogen for growth but the potassium is needed for good blooms.
A tip on blooming flowers is to put bananas which are high in potassium in the soil in the early spring and again just before they bloom. I feed only this to my roses and often have 4-6 inch blooms.
Trimming off the dead foliage helps promote more growth, keeps the decaying matter out of the pond and keeps bugs at bay.

Bloom and grow by Microbe-Lift treats almost twice what the other brand 1 oz treats 300 gallons. It does not promote algae bloom. Look for a phosphate free liquid fertilizer as phosphate is what causes the algae bloom. Tabb's in potted plants works very well but floating plants need a liquid to really take off. Aquatic tabs by AgriTab and Highland Rim both come in large amounts for a reasonable price.






Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
10% off our entire site for June 2007
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 8am-8pm CST


---------------------------------
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22949 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/13/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Tracy,

You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-cycle, you will have another mini-cycle.

As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up, and there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you start with a few, the cycle will be longer.

If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a copy of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no longer in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have had a high school chemistry course.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2007 1:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank

Thanks Paul! This is where I get confused. On most sites I've
visited they really don't like the chemically induced cycle changes
and say to just wait it out. When I key in New Tank Syndrome in
google the sites I visit have mostly said partial water changes at
day 5 as that is when the ammonia is supposed to hit it's peak. Then
I've read that any ammonia is bad and that partial water changes help
the fish and that adding chemicals could just complicate things for
me.

I read it also gets bad on Day 14 or so with the nitrites (think it
was that and not nitrates?) and again a partial water change.

Is this one of those everyone does it differently kind of things? I
just want what's best for my fish. :O)

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Tracy,
>
>
>
> The cycling could take longer and sometimes goes for six weeks.
>
> Rather than a water change I would recommend getting some Stability
from
> SeaChem. It should be available at most decent fish shops. It
will greatly
> reduce the stress on your fish. The stress could cause an outbreak
of
> disease from the cycling which could add more of a headache.
>
> Probably the best way to go is with Bio-Spira if you can find it
which will
> instantly cycle your tank.
>
> These are the only two commercially available product I would
recommend
> because everything else is pretty much snake oil.
>
> Just keep an eye on your nitrates. When they start increasing your
cycle is
> working. That is when you really should start with the water
changes.
>
> If you start changing the water you're going to prolong the length
of time
> it takes to cycle the tank.
>
> One other product I highly recommend using is Prime for
Dechlorinating
> water. It will also help reduce the toxic effects of nitrite with
ought
> delaying the cycling.
>
> I used stability in a 55g a month or so ago and it did what is says
on the
> label and greatly reduced the cycling time.
>
>
>
> Paul.
>
>
>



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22950 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
If it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a new tank, why do the pet stores tell
you you only have to wait 24-48 hours before putting fish in? Isn't it
kindof weird that they have people who specialise in all other areas,
such as birds and dogs, but not fish??? Just wondering. I started both
of my 10 gallon tanks on the 24 hour rule, because I didn't know any
better, but I've never had a problem, other than with having fish that
couldn't cohabitate. Was I just lucky? I've had one since January and
one since March, I think.

Karen



The general rule is that it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank, but there
are ways you can speed this up, and there are ways to make it slower.
The cycle depends on specialized bacteria, and the number you start
out with and the number you need to process the ammonia or nitrite
efficiently will vary. If you start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle
will be shorter. If you start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22951 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Steve -

As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
internet on this one. Plain english please.

I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with the
most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
except to swim past each other.

When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and his
fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
breathing faster than the others.

I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.

If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?

Thanks!
Tracy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy,
>
> You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-cycle,
you will have another mini-cycle.
>
> As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up, and
there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
>
> If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a copy
of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no longer
in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have had
a high school chemistry course.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22952 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
The test strips are not always accurate. You get what you pay for..
As far as putting fish in a new tank, you need fish (or pure
ammonia) to get the bacteria to grow and multiply so that the cycle
can finish. Unfortunately most lfs will tell you that you can put
more fish in the tank than is safe. They are hoping to get repeat
customers to come back and restock the tank when the new ones die
off due to ammonia poisoning.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Steve -
>
> As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
> the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
> internet on this one. Plain english please.
>
> I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
come
> up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
start
> to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
the
> most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> except to swim past each other.
>
> When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
his
> fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
by
> the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> breathing faster than the others.
>
> I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
>
> If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
now?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
likely
> to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
the
> same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
cycle,
> you will have another mini-cycle.
> >
> > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
and
> there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
> bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
need
> to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> >
> > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
copy
> of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
longer
> in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
> will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
> in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
had
> a high school chemistry course.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22953 From: Judith Downing Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Hi!

I used Bio-Spira in my new 50 gal planted aquarium. While it was not
cheap, I had to mailorder it (Drs. F & S) & because it has to be kept
cold & it needs to come overnight I paid almost $50. But I would do
it again, it was so much easier on me & the fish. I used Eco-Complete
with gravel & the plants are growing like mad. By the way I bought
the gravel at Wal-Mart, it is a very natural looking gravel, 25 lbs
for $10 but it is clean. I rinsed it & nothing came off! I also have
a small CO2 system & special fertilizer without nitrates or
phosphates to prevent algae. The tank is in my living room near the
TV & I now watch the tank & listen to the TV. LOL I never realized
how beautiful aquatic plants can be.

Judy

"The Bio-Spira is the only true product available that is nitrifying
bacteria. It has to remain refrigerated and if it warms up it
consumes all
its food and dies. Works really well if you can find it."



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22954 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Something is stressing your fish out big time.



I kept Danios and a male Betta together with no problems and I don’t think
that is the cause. They may not get along as the Betta’s get bossy and some
fish have different personalities but I don’t think this is causing the
major stress that is going on in your new tank.

I highly suspect water quality. If it was me I would probably do a 40%
water change and use Prime for detox at 5 times normal dose with the
replacement water. It will not harm your fish.

I always try to keep replacement water within 2 to 5 degrees of the tank
water as well.

Watch your Betta for Ick. Poor water conditions will have a big effect on
a Bettas finnage.

I don’t think the problem would be PH related so I suspect Ammonia,
Cloramine, Chlorine, or Nitrite. Most probably Ammonia.

You definitely want to get some extra Prime in there. Don’t test your test
strips in your tank. Get a little bottle of ammonia from the grocery store
and test the strips in a cup of water with a few drops of ammonia. I prefer
the hagen water test kits. The master one is a better value and is handy.



My thoughts,

Paul.



You may have to keep changing your water daily-ish for a month or so . It’s
very strange that you are seeing such dramatic effects or I’m missing pieces
of the puzzle.







From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 8:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well



Steve -

As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
internet on this one. Plain english please.

I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with the
most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
except to swim past each other.

When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and his
fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
breathing faster than the others.

I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.

If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?

Thanks!
Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy,
>
> You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-cycle,
you will have another mini-cycle.
>
> As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up, and
there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
>
> If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a copy
of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no longer
in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have had
a high school chemistry course.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22955 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Ok. So are you saying I should go buy more fish, even with the
problems with the betta and one of the danios (who decided to quit
eating today as well)? If so, how many. If not, what?

I have no problem buying a different testing system. Just need to
know what one. The test strips just seemed easiest to me so that's
what I bought - it wasn't monetarily based.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> The test strips are not always accurate. You get what you pay for..
> As far as putting fish in a new tank, you need fish (or pure
> ammonia) to get the bacteria to grow and multiply so that the cycle
> can finish. Unfortunately most lfs will tell you that you can put
> more fish in the tank than is safe. They are hoping to get repeat
> customers to come back and restock the tank when the new ones die
> off due to ammonia poisoning.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
> <jamakinmecrazy1@> wrote:
> >
> > Steve -
> >
> > As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made
up
> > the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> > never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and
the
> > internet on this one. Plain english please.
> >
> > I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> > Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
> come
> > up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
> start
> > to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
> the
> > most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios
interact
> > except to swim past each other.
> >
> > When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
> his
> > fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
> by
> > the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> > breathing faster than the others.
> >
> > I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> > still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
> >
> > If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
> now?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tracy,
> > >
> > > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> > fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> > amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
> likely
> > to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
> the
> > same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
> cycle,
> > you will have another mini-cycle.
> > >
> > > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> > takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> > each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> > weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
> and
> > there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on
specialized
> > bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
> need
> > to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> > start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> > start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> > >
> > > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
> copy
> > of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
> longer
> > in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> > find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than
you
> > will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of
chemistry
> > in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
> had
> > a high school chemistry course.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22956 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Thanks Paul! Where do I get Prime?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Something is stressing your fish out big time.
>
>
>
> I kept Danios and a male Betta together with no problems and I
don't think
> that is the cause. They may not get along as the Betta's get bossy
and some
> fish have different personalities but I don't think this is causing
the
> major stress that is going on in your new tank.
>
> I highly suspect water quality. If it was me I would probably do a
40%
> water change and use Prime for detox at 5 times normal dose with the
> replacement water. It will not harm your fish.
>
> I always try to keep replacement water within 2 to 5 degrees of the
tank
> water as well.
>
> Watch your Betta for Ick. Poor water conditions will have a big
effect on
> a Bettas finnage.
>
> I don't think the problem would be PH related so I suspect Ammonia,
> Cloramine, Chlorine, or Nitrite. Most probably Ammonia.
>
> You definitely want to get some extra Prime in there. Don't test
your test
> strips in your tank. Get a little bottle of ammonia from the
grocery store
> and test the strips in a cup of water with a few drops of ammonia.
I prefer
> the hagen water test kits. The master one is a better value and is
handy.
>
>
>
> My thoughts,
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> You may have to keep changing your water daily-ish for a month or
so . It's
> very strange that you are seeing such dramatic effects or I'm
missing pieces
> of the puzzle.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 14, 2007 8:39 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments
as well
>
>
>
> Steve -
>
> As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
> the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
> internet on this one. Plain english please.
>
> I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
> up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
> to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
the
> most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> except to swim past each other.
>
> When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
his
> fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
> the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> breathing faster than the others.
>
> I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
>
> If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
> to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
> same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
cycle,
> you will have another mini-cycle.
> >
> > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
and
> there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
> bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
> to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> >
> > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
copy
> of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
longer
> in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
> will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
> in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
had
> a high school chemistry course.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22957 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Found Prime on the Petsmart website so I'll go there tonight and get
that after work. I'll also look for a Hagen water test kit so I can
get more accurate readings.

I rinsed everything in warm water before I put it in the tank (pre-
fish by 48 hours) so that shouldn't be the problem. I bought it all
except the gravel from Dr. F&S.

Anything else I should pick up? Cycle? Overnight Bio-spira from
Dr.F&S?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Paul! Where do I get Prime?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Something is stressing your fish out big time.
> >
> >
> >
> > I kept Danios and a male Betta together with no problems and I
> don't think
> > that is the cause. They may not get along as the Betta's get
bossy
> and some
> > fish have different personalities but I don't think this is
causing
> the
> > major stress that is going on in your new tank.
> >
> > I highly suspect water quality. If it was me I would probably do
a
> 40%
> > water change and use Prime for detox at 5 times normal dose with
the
> > replacement water. It will not harm your fish.
> >
> > I always try to keep replacement water within 2 to 5 degrees of
the
> tank
> > water as well.
> >
> > Watch your Betta for Ick. Poor water conditions will have a big
> effect on
> > a Bettas finnage.
> >
> > I don't think the problem would be PH related so I suspect
Ammonia,
> > Cloramine, Chlorine, or Nitrite. Most probably Ammonia.
> >
> > You definitely want to get some extra Prime in there. Don't test
> your test
> > strips in your tank. Get a little bottle of ammonia from the
> grocery store
> > and test the strips in a cup of water with a few drops of
ammonia.
> I prefer
> > the hagen water test kits. The master one is a better value and
is
> handy.
> >
> >
> >
> > My thoughts,
> >
> > Paul.
> >
> >
> >
> > You may have to keep changing your water daily-ish for a month or
> so . It's
> > very strange that you are seeing such dramatic effects or I'm
> missing pieces
> > of the puzzle.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 8:39 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments
> as well
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve -
> >
> > As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made
up
> > the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> > never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and
the
> > internet on this one. Plain english please.
> >
> > I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> > Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
come
> > up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
start
> > to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
> the
> > most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> > except to swim past each other.
> >
> > When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
> his
> > fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
by
> > the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> > breathing faster than the others.
> >
> > I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> > still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
> >
> > If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
now?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tracy,
> > >
> > > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> > fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> > amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
likely
> > to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
the
> > same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
> cycle,
> > you will have another mini-cycle.
> > >
> > > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> > takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> > each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> > weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
> and
> > there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on
specialized
> > bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
need
> > to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> > start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> > start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> > >
> > > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
> copy
> > of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
> longer
> > in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> > find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than
you
> > will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of
chemistry
> > in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
> had
> > a high school chemistry course.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22958 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
It’s a SeaChem product and hopefully its available at your local fish shops.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 9:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well



Thanks Paul! Where do I get Prime?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Something is stressing your fish out big time.
>
>
>
> I kept Danios and a male Betta together with no problems and I
don't think
> that is the cause. They may not get along as the Betta's get bossy
and some
> fish have different personalities but I don't think this is causing
the
> major stress that is going on in your new tank.
>
> I highly suspect water quality. If it was me I would probably do a
40%
> water change and use Prime for detox at 5 times normal dose with the
> replacement water. It will not harm your fish.
>
> I always try to keep replacement water within 2 to 5 degrees of the
tank
> water as well.
>
> Watch your Betta for Ick. Poor water conditions will have a big
effect on
> a Bettas finnage.
>
> I don't think the problem would be PH related so I suspect Ammonia,
> Cloramine, Chlorine, or Nitrite. Most probably Ammonia.
>
> You definitely want to get some extra Prime in there. Don't test
your test
> strips in your tank. Get a little bottle of ammonia from the
grocery store
> and test the strips in a cup of water with a few drops of ammonia.
I prefer
> the hagen water test kits. The master one is a better value and is
handy.
>
>
>
> My thoughts,
>
> Paul.
>
>
>
> You may have to keep changing your water daily-ish for a month or
so . It's
> very strange that you are seeing such dramatic effects or I'm
missing pieces
> of the puzzle.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 14, 2007 8:39 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments
as well
>
>
>
> Steve -
>
> As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
> the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
> internet on this one. Plain english please.
>
> I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
> up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
> to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
the
> most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> except to swim past each other.
>
> When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
his
> fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
> the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> breathing faster than the others.
>
> I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
>
> If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
> to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
> same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
cycle,
> you will have another mini-cycle.
> >
> > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
and
> there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
> bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
> to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> >
> > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
copy
> of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
longer
> in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
> will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
> in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
had
> a high school chemistry course.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22959 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Shrimp Question
Quick question on Shrimp. One of my Wood Shrimp just molted after a month
and I was wondering do I leave the old shell in like with crayfish or do I
take it out and discard it?



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22960 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Bio spira is the way to go for sure if it is in your budget.

Prime is the best water conditioner on the market.

I think there is a mini master test kit which is sufficient.



Those three Items are an excellent purchase with a new tank.

A decent substrate like eco-complete is worth the money because you will
eventually want to have nice plants. Of course you will then need decent
lights and a Co2 system would be sweet but even with so so lights a eco
complete is good stuff.

Not as good as Aqua soil but not as complicated as well.



My dream tank today would be a Nature Aquarium by ADA. I would like to go
with an 100% ADA product line setup just one time.

This stuff: http://www.adana.co.jp/index_e.php

Just watch the pictures of tanks on the front page for a while. I think you
will see what I mean.

Awesome stuff.

I just got the Style of ADA catalogue and I’m hooked now.





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 9:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well



Found Prime on the Petsmart website so I'll go there tonight and get
that after work. I'll also look for a Hagen water test kit so I can
get more accurate readings.

I rinsed everything in warm water before I put it in the tank (pre-
fish by 48 hours) so that shouldn't be the problem. I bought it all
except the gravel from Dr. F&S.

Anything else I should pick up? Cycle? Overnight Bio-spira from
Dr.F&S?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Paul! Where do I get Prime?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Something is stressing your fish out big time.
> >
> >
> >
> > I kept Danios and a male Betta together with no problems and I
> don't think
> > that is the cause. They may not get along as the Betta's get
bossy
> and some
> > fish have different personalities but I don't think this is
causing
> the
> > major stress that is going on in your new tank.
> >
> > I highly suspect water quality. If it was me I would probably do
a
> 40%
> > water change and use Prime for detox at 5 times normal dose with
the
> > replacement water. It will not harm your fish.
> >
> > I always try to keep replacement water within 2 to 5 degrees of
the
> tank
> > water as well.
> >
> > Watch your Betta for Ick. Poor water conditions will have a big
> effect on
> > a Bettas finnage.
> >
> > I don't think the problem would be PH related so I suspect
Ammonia,
> > Cloramine, Chlorine, or Nitrite. Most probably Ammonia.
> >
> > You definitely want to get some extra Prime in there. Don't test
> your test
> > strips in your tank. Get a little bottle of ammonia from the
> grocery store
> > and test the strips in a cup of water with a few drops of
ammonia.
> I prefer
> > the hagen water test kits. The master one is a better value and
is
> handy.
> >
> >
> >
> > My thoughts,
> >
> > Paul.
> >
> >
> >
> > You may have to keep changing your water daily-ish for a month or
> so . It's
> > very strange that you are seeing such dramatic effects or I'm
> missing pieces
> > of the puzzle.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 8:39 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments
> as well
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve -
> >
> > As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made
up
> > the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> > never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and
the
> > internet on this one. Plain english please.
> >
> > I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> > Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
come
> > up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
start
> > to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
> the
> > most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> > except to swim past each other.
> >
> > When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
> his
> > fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
by
> > the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> > breathing faster than the others.
> >
> > I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> > still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
> >
> > If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
now?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tracy,
> > >
> > > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> > fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> > amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
likely
> > to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
the
> > same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
> cycle,
> > you will have another mini-cycle.
> > >
> > > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> > takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> > each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> > weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
> and
> > there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on
specialized
> > bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
need
> > to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> > start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> > start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> > >
> > > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
> copy
> > of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
> longer
> > in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> > find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than
you
> > will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of
chemistry
> > in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
> had
> > a high school chemistry course.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22961 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp Question
It okay to leave in.

Crayfish will probably eat it and that ok as well.

Or I took one out one time and dried it and it made a cool finger puppet.
Lol.



My dwarf shrimp always eat up there old molted skins and its perfectly safe.
I imagine wood, (AKA flower, Bamboo), shrimp would eat them to if possible.
I don’t recall ever seeing one eat it though. It’s been a few years since I
kept them.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: June 14, 2007 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Shrimp Question



Quick question on Shrimp. One of my Wood Shrimp just molted after a month
and I was wondering do I leave the old shell in like with crayfish or do I
take it out and discard it?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22962 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Ok. Just ordered Bio-Spira overnighted from Dr F&S. Picking up
Prime tonight from Petsmart and am trying to locate a Hagen mini
master test kit. The one lfs listed on the hagen site didn't have
any in stock. Trying the other when it opens at 10am. If I can't
find one locally I'll overnight one from somewhere.

Thank you so much for your help!!

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Bio spira is the way to go for sure if it is in your budget.
>
> Prime is the best water conditioner on the market.
>
> I think there is a mini master test kit which is sufficient.
>
>
>
> Those three Items are an excellent purchase with a new tank.
>
> A decent substrate like eco-complete is worth the money because you
will
> eventually want to have nice plants. Of course you will then need
decent
> lights and a Co2 system would be sweet but even with so so lights a
eco
> complete is good stuff.
>
> Not as good as Aqua soil but not as complicated as well.
>
>
>
> My dream tank today would be a Nature Aquarium by ADA. I would
like to go
> with an 100% ADA product line setup just one time.
>
> This stuff: http://www.adana.co.jp/index_e.php
>
> Just watch the pictures of tanks on the front page for a while. I
think you
> will see what I mean.
>
> Awesome stuff
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22963 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Well there goes cycle problems.



Two more tips:



1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
http://www.fishbase.org/search.php and its rare to find competent and
trustworthy fish shop staff even if they really seem to be. More likely
they are good at the later and not the former. My local fish shop owner is
a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.

Just got to be on guard and I learned the hard way not to buy on impulse
when he is selling me something. Its not his fault for the mistakes I made.
I just didn’t take the time to research. I could have saved a ton on money.
He only bites me on occasion now. Lol.



2: Don’t mess with your water parameters. Go for fish to match what you
have.

It is a nightmare to try to alter your PH.

It can be done though but research a lot before attempting it.



I think you will make it through the new tank syndrome okay and your tank
will be okay too.



Good luck Tracy!!!

I just wonder how long it will be before you want another tank. I guess at
1 month.

I started with a betta in a bowl and now I have 8 tanks running, about 300
gallons altogether, and three tanks on standby.

Oh ya and a new website: http://dwarfshrimp.com/





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well



Ok. Just ordered Bio-Spira overnighted from Dr F&S. Picking up
Prime tonight from Petsmart and am trying to locate a Hagen mini
master test kit. The one lfs listed on the hagen site didn't have
any in stock. Trying the other when it opens at 10am. If I can't
find one locally I'll overnight one from somewhere.

Thank you so much for your help!!

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Bio spira is the way to go for sure if it is in your budget.
>
> Prime is the best water conditioner on the market.
>
> I think there is a mini master test kit which is sufficient.
>
>
>
> Those three Items are an excellent purchase with a new tank.
>
> A decent substrate like eco-complete is worth the money because you
will
> eventually want to have nice plants. Of course you will then need
decent
> lights and a Co2 system would be sweet but even with so so lights a
eco
> complete is good stuff.
>
> Not as good as Aqua soil but not as complicated as well.
>
>
>
> My dream tank today would be a Nature Aquarium by ADA. I would
like to go
> with an 100% ADA product line setup just one time.
>
> This stuff: http://www.adana.co.jp/index_e.php
>
> Just watch the pictures of tanks on the front page for a while. I
think you
> will see what I mean.
>
> Awesome stuff





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22964 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Ugh. No one here carries Hagen mini master test kits. One store has
aquarium life(?) test kits they say they use in their store. The
other has one by Tetra. Should I drive over and get one of those or
overnight a hagen one from on-line somewhere?

Don't think I'll be getting additional aquariums any time soon.
Already have two horses that I show consistently as well as a '69
Camaro I show and am just about to start racing (you can find it on
google by keying in OVRKIL Camaro) and I have a little miniature
pinscher who decided to spend me $2k in vet bills last year before we
found out she had inflammatory bowel disease caused by an allergic
reaction to chicken in the food she'd been eating all her life!

I'd always wanted a fish tank because as a kid I tried and failed and
still have dreams about my fish dying and needing to replace them.
Kinda like the dreams where you are in the high school, can't find
your locker and then when you do you can't remember the combination.
LOL

Trying to get rid of my urge for fish by tring it again but with
better advice and more research. Apparently I hadn't done enough
research yet. LOL!

Tracy

P.S. Yes, my husband is very supportive! Good thing he loves animals
and hot-rods! :o)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Well there goes cycle problems.
>
>
>
> Two more tips:
>
>
>
> 1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
> http://www.fishbase.org/search.php and its rare to find competent
and
> trustworthy fish shop staff even if they really seem to be. More
likely
> they are good at the later and not the former. My local fish shop
owner is
> a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.
>
> Just got to be on guard and I learned the hard way not to buy on
impulse
> when he is selling me something. Its not his fault for the
mistakes I made.
> I just didn't take the time to research. I could have saved a ton
on money.
> He only bites me on occasion now. Lol.
>
>
>
> 2: Don't mess with your water parameters. Go for fish to match
what you
> have.
>
> It is a nightmare to try to alter your PH.
>
> It can be done though but research a lot before attempting it.
>
>
>
> I think you will make it through the new tank syndrome okay and
your tank
> will be okay too.
>
>
>
> Good luck Tracy!!!
>
> I just wonder how long it will be before you want another tank. I
guess at
> 1 month.
>
> I started with a betta in a bowl and now I have 8 tanks running,
about 300
> gallons altogether, and three tanks on standby.
>
> Oh ya and a new website: http://dwarfshrimp.com/
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22965 From: Paul H Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Don’t know about aquarium life tests, never heard of them and can’t find
them online. Makes me wonder.

Tetra seems okay but I have no experience with them either.



I think the Hagen mini master is good. It’s what I have always used and
they work good. Getting the mini master will probably save you money in the
long run. I would have to recommend the Hagen Mini Master.



Sorry to hear about your mini pinscher. Hope it didn’t have anything to do
with the food recalls. I have learned to do a lot of research on my pet
foods. Things are getting pretty scary with foods.

Seems that the recalls are hitting fish food now as well:
http://www.hbhpet.com/newsrecall.htm



I must sleep, graveyard shift again, yuk.



Oh ya, sweet Z!!!





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well



Ugh. No one here carries Hagen mini master test kits. One store has
aquarium life(?) test kits they say they use in their store. The
other has one by Tetra. Should I drive over and get one of those or
overnight a hagen one from on-line somewhere?

Don't think I'll be getting additional aquariums any time soon.
Already have two horses that I show consistently as well as a '69
Camaro I show and am just about to start racing (you can find it on
google by keying in OVRKIL Camaro) and I have a little miniature
pinscher who decided to spend me $2k in vet bills last year before we
found out she had inflammatory bowel disease caused by an allergic
reaction to chicken in the food she'd been eating all her life!

I'd always wanted a fish tank because as a kid I tried and failed and
still have dreams about my fish dying and needing to replace them.
Kinda like the dreams where you are in the high school, can't find
your locker and then when you do you can't remember the combination.
LOL

Trying to get rid of my urge for fish by tring it again but with
better advice and more research. Apparently I hadn't done enough
research yet. LOL!

Tracy

P.S. Yes, my husband is very supportive! Good thing he loves animals
and hot-rods! :o)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Well there goes cycle problems.
>
>
>
> Two more tips:
>
>
>
> 1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
> http://www.fishbase.org/search.php and its rare to find competent
and
> trustworthy fish shop staff even if they really seem to be. More
likely
> they are good at the later and not the former. My local fish shop
owner is
> a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.
>
> Just got to be on guard and I learned the hard way not to buy on
impulse
> when he is selling me something. Its not his fault for the
mistakes I made.
> I just didn't take the time to research. I could have saved a ton
on money.
> He only bites me on occasion now. Lol.
>
>
>
> 2: Don't mess with your water parameters. Go for fish to match
what you
> have.
>
> It is a nightmare to try to alter your PH.
>
> It can be done though but research a lot before attempting it.
>
>
>
> I think you will make it through the new tank syndrome okay and
your tank
> will be okay too.
>
>
>
> Good luck Tracy!!!
>
> I just wonder how long it will be before you want another tank. I
guess at
> 1 month.
>
> I started with a betta in a bowl and now I have 8 tanks running,
about 300
> gallons altogether, and three tanks on standby.
>
> Oh ya and a new website: http://dwarfshrimp.com/
>
>
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22966 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp Question
Welp, if I go the finger puppet route, will need to find a black top hat
that will fit the head and paint some toothpicks for the cane.



I will admit that I was surprised to see I still have plenty of ghost shrimp
still alive in the tank. Quite a few of them are pretty big now (well, big
for GS anyway)







_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Shrimp Question



It okay to leave in.

Crayfish will probably eat it and that ok as well.

Or I took one out one time and dried it and it made a cool finger puppet.
Lol.

My dwarf shrimp always eat up there old molted skins and its perfectly safe.
I imagine wood, (AKA flower, Bamboo), shrimp would eat them to if possible.
I don’t recall ever seeing one eat it though. It’s been a few years since I
kept them.

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: June 14, 2007 9:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Shrimp Question

Quick question on Shrimp. One of my Wood Shrimp just molted after a month
and I was wondering do I leave the old shell in like with crayfish or do I
take it out and discard it?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22967 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Actually, the "get what you pay for" is wrong when it comes to test strips.
They actually cost MUCH MORE than the test tube and reagent liquid test kits
when you look at cost per test. You can get a good API Master Test Kit (the
new version has ammonia, nitrite, pH low, pH high, KH and GH) including the
separate Nitrate test kit for under $25.00 (PetsMart.com or retail stores
will match the online prices) and it will last a couple of years with weekly
testing and will go out of date before you finish the product, if you only
do monthly testing. The 5-in-1 test strips from Mardel end up costing much
more over the course of a couple of years if you only did weekly tests but
since the strips are notoriously inaccurate, people tend to use them more
frequently, since the numbers jump around so much, so you end up going
through a bottle of 50 test strips in a few months. Much more costly!!!!

Here's my blog page on the topic with links to the various Master Test Kits
that I've used or researched.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/everyone-needs-decent-master-test-kit.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well

The test strips are not always accurate. You get what you pay for..
As far as putting fish in a new tank, you need fish (or pure
ammonia) to get the bacteria to grow and multiply so that the cycle can
finish. Unfortunately most lfs will tell you that you can put more fish in
the tank than is safe. They are hoping to get repeat customers to come back
and restock the tank when the new ones die off due to ammonia poisoning.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Steve -
>
> As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up the
> numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've never taken
> chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the internet on
> this one. Plain english please.
>
> I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
come
> up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
start
> to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
the
> most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
> except to swim past each other.
>
> When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
his
> fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
by
> the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> breathing faster than the others.
>
> I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips still
> aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
>
> If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
now?
>
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Tracy,
> >
> > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable amounts
> of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
likely
> to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
the
> same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
cycle,
> you will have another mini-cycle.
> >
> > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with each
> and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6 weeks to
> cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
and
> there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
> bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
need
> to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you start
> with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you start with
> a few, the cycle will be longer.
> >
> > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
copy
> of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
longer
> in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will find
> in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you will
> find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry in this
> book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
had
> a high school chemistry course.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22968 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
The Tetra-Laborette Master Test Kit is a good one.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 12:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well

Ugh. No one here carries Hagen mini master test kits. One store has aquarium
life(?) test kits they say they use in their store. The other has one by
Tetra. Should I drive over and get one of those or overnight a hagen one
from on-line somewhere?

Don't think I'll be getting additional aquariums any time soon.
Already have two horses that I show consistently as well as a '69 Camaro I
show and am just about to start racing (you can find it on google by keying
in OVRKIL Camaro) and I have a little miniature pinscher who decided to
spend me $2k in vet bills last year before we found out she had inflammatory
bowel disease caused by an allergic reaction to chicken in the food she'd
been eating all her life!

I'd always wanted a fish tank because as a kid I tried and failed and still
have dreams about my fish dying and needing to replace them.
Kinda like the dreams where you are in the high school, can't find your
locker and then when you do you can't remember the combination.
LOL

Trying to get rid of my urge for fish by tring it again but with better
advice and more research. Apparently I hadn't done enough research yet. LOL!

Tracy

P.S. Yes, my husband is very supportive! Good thing he loves animals and
hot-rods! :o)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Well there goes cycle problems.
>
>
>
> Two more tips:
>
>
>
> 1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
> http://www.fishbase.org/search.php
> <http://www.fishbase.org/search.php> and its rare to find competent
and
> trustworthy fish shop staff even if they really seem to be. More
likely
> they are good at the later and not the former. My local fish shop
owner is
> a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.
>
> Just got to be on guard and I learned the hard way not to buy on
impulse
> when he is selling me something. Its not his fault for the
mistakes I made.
> I just didn't take the time to research. I could have saved a ton
on money.
> He only bites me on occasion now. Lol.
>
>
>
> 2: Don't mess with your water parameters. Go for fish to match
what you
> have.
>
> It is a nightmare to try to alter your PH.
>
> It can be done though but research a lot before attempting it.
>
>
>
> I think you will make it through the new tank syndrome okay and
your tank
> will be okay too.
>
>
>
> Good luck Tracy!!!
>
> I just wonder how long it will be before you want another tank. I
guess at
> 1 month.
>
> I started with a betta in a bowl and now I have 8 tanks running,
about 300
> gallons altogether, and three tanks on standby.
>
> Oh ya and a new website: http://dwarfshrimp.com/
> <http://dwarfshrimp.com/>
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22969 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Also, another very reliable profile site with thousands of fish profiles is
http://fish.mongabay.com They also list Fishbase.org as one of their
references. I like Fishbase.org but their profiles are not user friendly.
Mongabay also has links to biotopes if you wanted to set up a tank with a
particular biotope. Their profiles list reasonable tank sizes and fish
sizes, proper water parameter ranges, food types needed, species
compatibility suggestions, etc.

Hey Paul, it's nice to know you can buy your fish and a used car from the
same guy! ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 12:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as
well

Well there goes cycle problems.

Two more tips:

1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
http://www.fishbase.org/search.php <http://www.fishbase.org/search.php> and
its rare to find competent and trustworthy fish shop staff even if they
really seem to be. More likely they are good at the later and not the
former. My local fish shop owner is a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22970 From: Blue fish Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Marine animal news
Latest Blog News
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22971 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
I was told recently that Hagen is switching from selling to distributors to selling directly to pet stores.  There may be some down time until the Hagen products are in the stores.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: jamakinmecrazy1 <jamakinmecrazy1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 9:33 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well






Ok. Just ordered Bio-Spira overnighted from Dr F&S. Picking up
Prime tonight from Petsmart and am trying to locate a Hagen mini
master test kit. The one lfs listed on the hagen site didn't have
any in stock. Trying the other when it opens at 10am. If I can't
find one locally I'll overnight one from somewhere.

Thank you so much for your help!!

Tracy





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22972 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: My freshwater tank
Well my husband just called from home, I'm still at work. Betta didn't
make it and he can only find 2 slow swimmers near the surface of the
danios. He said he can't locate the other 3. I'm off to Petsmart
right after work to get Prime and an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test
kit. I hope there is something wrong with the water or I'm really at a
loss. I ordered the Hagen test kit from on-line but overnight wasn't
an option so I have to make due with what is available locally for
now.

Bio-spira should be here tomorrow. Will do the Prime and 40% water
change tonight and locate the hopefully locate the other 3 fish
swimming and not floating. Hopefully I'm in time to save some of the
fish!

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22973 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developm
I use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Inc. master freshwater test kits, as do a lot
of us.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 2:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments
as well



Don’t know about aquarium life tests, never heard of them and can’t find
them online. Makes me wonder.

Tetra seems okay but I have no experience with them either.

I think the Hagen mini master is good. It’s what I have always used and
they work good. Getting the mini master will probably save you money in the
long run. I would have to recommend the Hagen Mini Master.

Sorry to hear about your mini pinscher. Hope it didn’t have anything to do
with the food recalls. I have learned to do a lot of research on my pet
foods. Things are getting pretty scary with foods.

Seems that the recalls are hitting fish food now as well:
http://www.hbhpet. <http://www.hbhpet.com/newsrecall.htm> com/newsrecall.htm

I must sleep, graveyard shift again, yuk.

Oh ya, sweet Z!!!

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well

Ugh. No one here carries Hagen mini master test kits. One store has
aquarium life(?) test kits they say they use in their store. The
other has one by Tetra. Should I drive over and get one of those or
overnight a hagen one from on-line somewhere?

Don't think I'll be getting additional aquariums any time soon.
Already have two horses that I show consistently as well as a '69
Camaro I show and am just about to start racing (you can find it on
google by keying in OVRKIL Camaro) and I have a little miniature
pinscher who decided to spend me $2k in vet bills last year before we
found out she had inflammatory bowel disease caused by an allergic
reaction to chicken in the food she'd been eating all her life!

I'd always wanted a fish tank because as a kid I tried and failed and
still have dreams about my fish dying and needing to replace them.
Kinda like the dreams where you are in the high school, can't find
your locker and then when you do you can't remember the combination.
LOL

Trying to get rid of my urge for fish by tring it again but with
better advice and more research. Apparently I hadn't done enough
research yet. LOL!

Tracy

P.S. Yes, my husband is very supportive! Good thing he loves animals
and hot-rods! :o)

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Well there goes cycle problems.
>
>
>
> Two more tips:
>
>
>
> 1: Research before you buy! Check sites like
> http://www.fishbase <http://www.fishbase.org/search.php> .org/search.php
and its rare to find competent
and
> trustworthy fish shop staff even if they really seem to be. More
likely
> they are good at the later and not the former. My local fish shop
owner is
> a crook but a really nice guy. Lol.
>
> Just got to be on guard and I learned the hard way not to buy on
impulse
> when he is selling me something. Its not his fault for the
mistakes I made.
> I just didn't take the time to research. I could have saved a ton
on money.
> He only bites me on occasion now. Lol.
>
>
>
> 2: Don't mess with your water parameters. Go for fish to match
what you
> have.
>
> It is a nightmare to try to alter your PH.
>
> It can be done though but research a lot before attempting it.
>
>
>
> I think you will make it through the new tank syndrome okay and
your tank
> will be okay too.
>
>
>
> Good luck Tracy!!!
>
> I just wonder how long it will be before you want another tank. I
guess at
> 1 month.
>
> I started with a betta in a bowl and now I have 8 tanks running,
about 300
> gallons altogether, and three tanks on standby.
>
> Oh ya and a new website: http://dwarfshrimp. <http://dwarfshrimp.com/>
com/
>
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22974 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Stores, especially big box stores think short term profits.

Mammals (dogs, cats, hamsters, etc.) are, more or less, warm and cuddly.
People squawk big time if they are not treated right.

Birds fall into a category of expensive. Birds are nice to look at and
brighten a room. They can sing and/or make other noises. Some can
imitate sounds around the house, even speech. Another soft spot in the
human psyche.

Fish, well, they are a different story. They can be extremely difficult
to keep. They have scales, just like snakes, a widely reviled reptile.
The are relatively inexpensive--you don't see any 99 cent specials on
other animals, or other deals like that. They are seen as disposable
creatures.

People do not get jobs in these stores because they like fish. People
get jobs in these stores because they like dogs, or cats, or, even,
birds. Some get these jobs just to have a job that may be easy, and not
require a lot of work.

Also, take a look around. What do you see for literature on fish (never
mind the cycle or things like that). Almost nothing. They may have the
latest AFM or TFH at the registers, but they are surrounded, and
over-whelmed, by publications on dogs and cats.

Add to the equation that most people are impatient. They have the tank.
It is full of water. They want something in it, and are not willing to
wait or do the things necessary to establish the cycle. Getting them to
wait for 24-48 hours is a major achievement, at least allowing the water
temperature to stabilize.

I am sure that I haven't covered the whole field. It has been a while
since I actually went to a store to buy fish. Most of mine come from
auctions or private sales. But I do go occasionally to purchase dog
treats or kitty litter.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank

If it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a new tank, why do the pet stores tell
you you only have to wait 24-48 hours before putting fish in? Isn't it
kindof weird that they have people who specialise in all other areas,
such as birds and dogs, but not fish??? Just wondering. I started both
of my 10 gallon tanks on the 24 hour rule, because I didn't know any
better, but I've never had a problem, other than with having fish that
couldn't cohabitate. Was I just lucky? I've had one since January and
one since March, I think.

Karen



The general rule is that it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank, but there
are ways you can speed this up, and there are ways to make it slower.
The cycle depends on specialized bacteria, and the number you start
out with and the number you need to process the ammonia or nitrite
efficiently will vary. If you start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle
will be shorter. If you start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22975 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
They are hard to find, but probably the best kits on the
market--Aqua-Tru--distributed by Kordon. See if your LFS can get some
for you. The big factor is that you can place water in the vial on both
sides, the side you test with and the side you take a color reading
from. If your water is discolored in any fashion (and you may not even
notice it), you can still get an accurate reading this way.

Else look for a kit with pre-measured, dated reagents. If you cannot get
the pre-measured, make sure the reagents are dated. Reagents have a
limited shelf life before they start giving false readings, so it is
important that you get those with an expiration date.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as
well

Ok. So are you saying I should go buy more fish, even with the
problems with the betta and one of the danios (who decided to quit
eating today as well)? If so, how many. If not, what?

I have no problem buying a different testing system. Just need to
know what one. The test strips just seemed easiest to me so that's
what I bought - it wasn't monetarily based.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> The test strips are not always accurate. You get what you pay for..
> As far as putting fish in a new tank, you need fish (or pure
> ammonia) to get the bacteria to grow and multiply so that the cycle
> can finish. Unfortunately most lfs will tell you that you can put
> more fish in the tank than is safe. They are hoping to get repeat
> customers to come back and restock the tank when the new ones die
> off due to ammonia poisoning.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
> <jamakinmecrazy1@> wrote:
> >
> > Steve -
> >
> > As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made
up
> > the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
> > never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and
the
> > internet on this one. Plain english please.
> >
> > I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
> > Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not
> come
> > up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio
> start
> > to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with
> the
> > most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios
interact
> > except to swim past each other.
> >
> > When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and
> his
> > fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased
> by
> > the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
> > breathing faster than the others.
> >
> > I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
> > still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.
> >
> > If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what
> now?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Tracy
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Tracy,
> > >
> > > You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
> > fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
> > amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are
> likely
> > to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and
> the
> > same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-
> cycle,
> > you will have another mini-cycle.
> > >
> > > As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
> > takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
> > each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
> > weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up,
> and
> > there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on
specialized
> > bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you
> need
> > to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
> > start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
> > start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
> > >
> > > If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a
> copy
> > of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no
> longer
> > in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
> > find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than
you
> > will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of
chemistry
> > in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have
> had
> > a high school chemistry course.
> > >
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22976 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
Hogwash is the comment on the numbers, no matter where you found them or
came up with them. I am fully cognizant of the fact that you found these
on a web site. There is a lot of poor information on the web, but
because someone saw it on the web, they have a tendency to believe what
ever is posted. One needs to know how to separate the wheat form the
chaff. That will come with knowledge from good sources and experience.

I don't think anyone has given you a quick overview of the cycle.

For convenience we say that the cycle starts with ammonia. Ammonia is
produced by the living animals in the aquarium as a by-product of
digestion and bodily functions. Ammonia is toxic to fish. How toxic
depends on the fish in question and the pH of the water. Fortunately,
there are bacteria that will consume the ammonia. These bacteria eat the
ammonia, digest it and produce nitrites.

Nitrites are also toxic to fish. Again, we are helped by bacteria that
consume nitrites. As they do this, like their ammonia consuming cousins,
the nitrites are removed from the water column. Consuming the nitrites
leads them to produce waste of their own, nitrates.

Nitrates are not so harmful to fish as the other two. In an aquarium
setting, it is difficult to remove nitrates without intervention. There
are some anaerobic bacteria that will consume nitrates, but use of these
bacteria requires setting up a specific environment for them, which can
lead to other problems which can be harmful to the fish. Plants do
consume nitrates, and a well planted tank can keep them in check. The
best, and most sure way of removing nitrates is through water changes.

All these compounds contain nitrogen, and, hence, are frequently called
nitrogenous wastes when referring to them generally.

So, there you have it. The nitrogen cycle in a nut shell.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as
well

Steve -

As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
internet on this one. Plain english please.

I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with the
most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
except to swim past each other.

When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and his
fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
breathing faster than the others.

I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.

If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?

Thanks!
Tracy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy,
>
> You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-cycle,
you will have another mini-cycle.
>
> As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up, and
there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
>
> If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a copy
of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no longer
in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have had
a high school chemistry course.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22977 From: Bethany Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Red Eared Sliders
We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in one tank and
a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22978 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank
Steve......how very profound......but then aren't a lot of things in our society becoming "disposable".......and most of those are the things that bring pleasure. Cory


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:40:58 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank

Stores, especially big box stores think short term profits.

Mammals (dogs, cats, hamsters, etc.) are, more or less, warm and cuddly.
People squawk big time if they are not treated right.

Birds fall into a category of expensive. Birds are nice to look at and
brighten a room. They can sing and/or make other noises. Some can
imitate sounds around the house, even speech. Another soft spot in the
human psyche.

Fish, well, they are a different story. They can be extremely difficult
to keep. They have scales, just like snakes, a widely reviled reptile.
The are relatively inexpensive- -you don't see any 99 cent specials on
other animals, or other deals like that. They are seen as disposable
creatures.

People do not get jobs in these stores because they like fish. People
get jobs in these stores because they like dogs, or cats, or, even,
birds. Some get these jobs just to have a job that may be easy, and not
require a lot of work.

Also, take a look around. What do you see for literature on fish (never
mind the cycle or things like that). Almost nothing. They may have the
latest AFM or TFH at the registers, but they are surrounded, and
over-whelmed, by publications on dogs and cats.

Add to the equation that most people are impatient. They have the tank.
It is full of water. They want something in it, and are not willing to
wait or do the things necessary to establish the cycle. Getting them to
wait for 24-48 hours is a major achievement, at least allowing the water
temperature to stabilize.

I am sure that I haven't covered the whole field. It has been a while
since I actually went to a store to buy fish. Most of mine come from
auctions or private sales. But I do go occasionally to purchase dog
treats or kitty litter.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 9:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank

If it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a new tank, why do the pet stores tell
you you only have to wait 24-48 hours before putting fish in? Isn't it
kindof weird that they have people who specialise in all other areas,
such as birds and dogs, but not fish??? Just wondering. I started both
of my 10 gallon tanks on the 24 hour rule, because I didn't know any
better, but I've never had a problem, other than with having fish that
couldn't cohabitate. Was I just lucky? I've had one since January and
one since March, I think.

Karen

The general rule is that it takes 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank, but there
are ways you can speed this up, and there are ways to make it slower.
The cycle depends on specialized bacteria, and the number you start
out with and the number you need to process the ammonia or nitrite
efficiently will vary. If you start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle
will be shorter. If you start with a few, the cycle will be longer.






____________________________________________________________________________________
It's here! Your new message!
Get new email alerts with the free Yahoo! Toolbar.
http://tools.search.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22979 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: My freshwater tank
If you bought everything new and these fish from PetsMart... or any other
retailer... and they did not give you proper information on Cycling and
Acclimation, I would pitch a bi-otch at the manager so they will at least
honor the replacement of your lost fish. Until more people go back and
complain to these retailers and it starts hitting them in their bottom line,
they'll never begin to give proper information.

The least these retailers with websites should do is have a web page with
proper fishless cycling information, using Bio-Spira or at least the best
possible instructions for someone stuck with cycling with fish.. which would
also include the sale of a master test kit.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 6:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My freshwater tank

Well my husband just called from home, I'm still at work. Betta didn't make
it and he can only find 2 slow swimmers near the surface of the danios. He
said he can't locate the other 3. I'm off to Petsmart right after work to
get Prime and an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals test kit. I hope there is
something wrong with the water or I'm really at a loss. I ordered the Hagen
test kit from on-line but overnight wasn't an option so I have to make due
with what is available locally for now.

Bio-spira should be here tomorrow. Will do the Prime and 40% water change
tonight and locate the hopefully locate the other 3 fish swimming and not
floating. Hopefully I'm in time to save some of the fish!

Tracy

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22980 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well
As an addendum to what I have said, I just saw a reprinted article in a club newsletter about the nitrogen cycle by a person who put a lot of work into understanding the ammonia production of koi, Stephen Meyer. It is reprinted from the February, 1989 issue of Aquarium Fish Magazine. If you are interested in seeing it, contact me off list, and I'll see if I can strip it out, or just send you the whole PDF file.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as well

Hogwash is the comment on the numbers, no matter where you found them or
came up with them. I am fully cognizant of the fact that you found these
on a web site. There is a lot of poor information on the web, but
because someone saw it on the web, they have a tendency to believe what
ever is posted. One needs to know how to separate the wheat form the
chaff. That will come with knowledge from good sources and experience.

I don't think anyone has given you a quick overview of the cycle.

For convenience we say that the cycle starts with ammonia. Ammonia is
produced by the living animals in the aquarium as a by-product of
digestion and bodily functions. Ammonia is toxic to fish. How toxic
depends on the fish in question and the pH of the water. Fortunately,
there are bacteria that will consume the ammonia. These bacteria eat the
ammonia, digest it and produce nitrites.

Nitrites are also toxic to fish. Again, we are helped by bacteria that
consume nitrites. As they do this, like their ammonia consuming cousins,
the nitrites are removed from the water column. Consuming the nitrites
leads them to produce waste of their own, nitrates.

Nitrates are not so harmful to fish as the other two. In an aquarium
setting, it is difficult to remove nitrates without intervention. There
are some anaerobic bacteria that will consume nitrates, but use of these
bacteria requires setting up a specific environment for them, which can
lead to other problems which can be harmful to the fish. Plants do
consume nitrates, and a well planted tank can keep them in check. The
best, and most sure way of removing nitrates is through water changes.

All these compounds contain nitrogen, and, hence, are frequently called
nitrogenous wastes when referring to them generally.

So, there you have it. The nitrogen cycle in a nut shell.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 10:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New freshwater tank - new developments as
well

Steve -

As for the hogwash comment - I'm hoping you didn't think I made up
the numbers in my head. I saw them on bestfish.com Also, I've
never taken chemistry so I'm hoping for the help of others and the
internet on this one. Plain english please.

I just removed my betta from the tank. He was fine and eating on
Tuesday. Wednesday he wanted to hang out at the bottom and not come
up for food but otherwise looked ok. Tuesday I had one danio start
to hang out at the top looking to be breathing fast(the one with the
most tail fin). I've never seen the betta and the danios interact
except to swim past each other.

When I woke up today the betta had 3 white spots on his face and his
fins are half gone. The danio with the most fins is being chased by
the others and now has almost no tail fin and still looks to be
breathing faster than the others.

I've put the betta back in the jar he came home in. Test strips
still aren't showing any bad readings in my tank.

If I'm having a mini-cycle what now? If I've got sick fish what now?

Thanks!
Tracy


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy,
>
> You have a 52 gallon tank with 6 (as I recall) relatively small
fish in it. You are going to be hard presses to get measurable
amounts of ammonia, especially with the test strips. You are likely
to see a blip of ammonia, as you mentioned in another post, and the
same with your nitrites. If you add more fish after this mini-cycle,
you will have another mini-cycle.
>
> As for the days you list, total hogwash. The amount of time it
takes for your cycle to proceed and the "bad" days will vary with
each and every tank you do. The general rule is that it takes 4-6
weeks to cycle a tank, but there are ways you can speed this up, and
there are ways to make it slower. The cycle depends on specialized
bacteria, and the number you start out with and the number you need
to process the ammonia or nitrite efficiently will vary. If you
start with a lot of bacteria, your cycle will be shorter. If you
start with a few, the cycle will be longer.
>
> If you want a definitive explanation of the cycle, look for a copy
of Stephen Spotte's _Fish and Invertebrate Culture_. It is no longer
in print, so good copies can be a bit hard to find, but you will
find in it an explanation of the cycle that is far better than you
will find elsewhere. EDUCATION ALERT!! There is a lot of chemistry
in this book, but to understand it, you really only need to have had
a high school chemistry course.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22981 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
When I had red ears I put feeder goldfish in the tank. As for light I
just put the tank where natural daylight occured.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22982 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.

Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
and it was 6.2

Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
top. One still fine.

Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
through the night, etc.

I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
there.

I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
(rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.

I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.

My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?

Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't
ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
anything.

Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22983 From: MIke Schornak Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
If you want to put the turtle outside to get sunlight. DO NOT leave them unattended for any period of time!

Mike

Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote:
We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in one tank and
a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks






---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22984 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/14/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
OK. You need to double check and get a proper baseline on your tap pH.
Something is happening to it for it to go from 6.2 to 7.6 (could be high CO2
levels in your tap/source water). This means that when you do a 40% PWC,
you are possibly lowering the pH of the tank by more than .5 pH which is a
DRAMATIC drop at one time and could be the cause of your fish stress issues
and health issues. Or you could have something in your tank that is raising
the pH from 6.2 to 7.6 which is a huge increase, depending on how fast it
goes up... but it's still a problem if the water you do your PWC's with is
that much lower. We can help fix this issue but we need more information.

Go to my blog about establishing your tap/source baseline chemistry and post
your numbers so we can see what is happening to your tap/source water pH and
water chemistry.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/05/find-your-tap-source-water-baseline.ht
ml You can't go by the readings right out of the tap, especially not the
first gallon out of the tap. Let it run a minute before using a gallon for
testing purposes in the baseline test.

Since you are using a dechlor, you don't really need to test your chlorine
levels. You could call or email your local utility to see what the
chlorine/chloramine baselines should be. Here is my blog on that topic.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-information.html

As far as the carbon goes, did you rinse your filter cartridges per the
instructions? If you did, then you shouldn't have any floating around in
your water. If any carbon does come out, it usually settles down into the
gravel shortly afterwards..



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another one
hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top looking sickly and
one just going crazy swimming about.

Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was 7.6.
Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap and it was 6.2

Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish back at top
of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going from hanging out at
the bottom for a while and then going to the top. One still fine.

Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to see what
happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing fine. Not sure if that
was the right thing to do but figured I needed healthy fish to test out
again. Hoping the others make it through the night, etc.

I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips which I
already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do there.

I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a strainer
(got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S (rinsed those
items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from Perfecto warehouse. It
was very dusty like it'd been stored for quite a while but we rinsed it well
before even setting it up.

I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd had for a
very long time and was happy someone was finally buying it. It looks good
with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.

My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as well as the
regular filter media and I have seen some bits of charcoal floating in the
tank. Could that be my problem?

Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't ask
them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know anything.

Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?

Tracy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22985 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
With regard to the pH of your water from the tap and in the tank, it is
becoming less and less unusual for such dramatic changes. Draw a sample
of your water from the tap. Test the water for pH. Let the remain water
sit at least overnight for up to 24 hours and retest your sample. It
would be unusual for the pH to go the way you mention in municipal
water--it is usually the other way a they try to raise the pH to save
their pipes., but if you do not have municipal water, you may see such a
change in the upward direction. If you see no change, then there is
something in your tank that is causing the change in pH that you note.
The trick then is to determine what it is.

If it is the water from the tap that is making the change, you will need
to draw water for water changes at least a day prior to the water change
and let it sit for the pH to stabilize before adding it to your tank.

Please follow the directions with any water conditioner you use. (or
anything you add to your tank). You may have adverse affects if you do
not.

While it is SOP to just rinse gravel going into the tank, nearly
everything else gets more than a rinse, generally a treatment of water
and bleach, followed by a good rinsing, though a salt solution can also
be used.

I do not recommend the use of carbon in a tank unless there is a
specific need for it, and then only use it for as long as the need
exists.

You can ask for advice from those employees. Just take it with a grain
of salt. You may actually find someone who knows something about the
proper care of fish. I know a few people who are knowledgeable that have
worked at big box stores like that to either have a job, or to help
afford their hobby. None of them stayed for very long, no more than a
year or so, but they were there.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 12:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.

Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
and it was 6.2

Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
top. One still fine.

Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
through the night, etc.

I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
there.

I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
(rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.

I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.

My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?

Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't
ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
anything.

Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22986 From: memphisgirl39 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be
move with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I
wont be able to read the response until I get home from work.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22987 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
<<If you want to put the turtle outside to get sunlight. DO NOT leave
them unattended for any period of time!
    Mike>>>
That's how I lost my box turtle even though I had the fence dug in six
inches into the ground.
Turtles are escape artists.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22988 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
My suggestion is to get them some Anacharis which if you don't know is a cheap water plant that they will love to eat red leaf lettuce and other vegvies like cucumber and zucchini
light wise all depends on what you are talking about you can get the sunning lamps and leave it on for at least 10 hours a day or like others have suggested the natural light is always good

Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote:
We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in one tank and
a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks






---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22989 From: jett07002 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be
> move with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I
> wont be able to read the response until I get home from work.
>

If it's about 10 gallons, you can take some water out of it so
it doesn't spill over too much and you could probably pick it up. Two
people to hold a side apiece is better. Full tank could weigh about
80 pounds, theoretically, but if you take out about half the water it
shouldn't be too bad. Catch the water in a clean pail and you can pur
it back in after you move it.

If the tank is bigger, you have a problem. If that's the case,
I would cover it with plastic sheeting --- turn off the air pumps and
filters ------and be sure to cover them up good, too. You don't want
any of the insecticide that may get on them to be blown in the water
when you start them up.

You can leave the tank covered for a little while. It wont hurt
the fish. I've done it when painting, etc. many times. Oh, BTW,
don't turn the tank lights on either. Might melt the plastic or start
a fire.

Good luck. You may have to do this a few times. Usually after the
eggs hatch. Fleas can be a real nuisance.

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22990 From: coryswalter Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Need Saltwater Clairification
Before I get too involved in this saltwater project, I asked the young
man at my lfs if he had any good books on starting a saltwater tank. I
told him I was planning on doing a 30 gal one. He said it was too
small and I would be doing things to it 2 or 3 times a day just to get
it started and keep it going. He said I needed a much larger one.
Now, was he correct or just trying to sell me their 55 gal or larger
tank? If this is going to be a really time consuming, leave me no time
for anything else but this tank, thing, I'd like to know before I start
it. I don't mind taking some time to have something as beautiful as a
saltwater environment, but I don't want to be totally consumed by this,
either. Please help! Thanks, Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22991 From: jett07002 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
> One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
> one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
>
> Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
> 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
> and it was 6.2
>
> Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
> from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> top. One still fine.
>
> Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
> see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> through the night, etc.
>
> I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
> there.
>
> I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
> strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
> (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
> Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
>
> I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
> had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
> it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
>
> My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
>
> Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't
> ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> anything.
>
> Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
>
> Tracy
>
Hi, Tracy.
Both Lenny and Steve gave you good advice, so I am not going
to echo what they have said. I believe you should try Steve's advice
first to see if the water from the tap is the problem before you start
experimenting with your tank at the further expense of your fish.
As for my two cents, I would also recommend that you be
careful about what your are putting in your tank for decorations, etc.
For instance, I've run into situations where people used dolomite
instead of gravel. Dolomite will raise the pH of the water.

There is such a thing us aquarists (especially the older guys
like me ;o) ) call "pH bounce". This occurs when the pH of the water
is changed dramatically over and over again. If you go to this site
and look through the old messages, you'll see that I've commented on
this subject quite often. Nothing will drive your fish more crazy and
eventually kill them than "pH bounce". And it seems that your fish
had to put up with quite a bit of it. I would definitely find out
what is happening with the water before I put more fish in the tank.
Be patient. Fish keeping is not a quick fix hobby.

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22992 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Thanks Steve & Lenny! I lost the one danio that was floating near the
bottom yesterday when I checked on the tank this morning. :o( The
others seem to be doing just fine.

I'll follow the instructions you both posted and see what comes out of
the tests.

I also e-mailed the tetra-care line people and got a call back this
morning. Very friendly and helpful.

They can't figure out what might be wrong with my tank either though.
Unless it is the ph thing. That's the route I'll pursue for now. I
need to test the ph in the tank today to compare with what it was
before I did the water change (7.6).

Thank you all for your help!

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22993 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
I think 7.6 is the highest reading on the "low" pH test from API. So the
tank pH might be even higher, I would do the high pH test too.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank

OK. You need to double check and get a proper baseline on your tap pH.
Something is happening to it for it to go from 6.2 to 7.6 (could be high CO2
levels in your tap/source water). This means that when you do a 40% PWC,
you are possibly lowering the pH of the tank by more than .5 pH which is a
DRAMATIC drop at one time and could be the cause of your fish stress issues
and health issues. Or you could have something in your tank that is raising
the pH from 6.2 to 7.6 which is a huge increase, depending on how fast it
goes up... but it's still a problem if the water you do your PWC's with is
that much lower. We can help fix this issue but we need more information.

Go to my blog about establishing your tap/source baseline chemistry and post
your numbers so we can see what is happening to your tap/source water pH and
water chemistry.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/05/find-your-tap-source-water-baseline.ht
ml You can't go by the readings right out of the tap, especially not the
first gallon out of the tap. Let it run a minute before using a gallon for
testing purposes in the baseline test.

Since you are using a dechlor, you don't really need to test your chlorine
levels. You could call or email your local utility to see what the
chlorine/chloramine baselines should be. Here is my blog on that topic.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-information.html

As far as the carbon goes, did you rinse your filter cartridges per the
instructions? If you did, then you shouldn't have any floating around in
your water. If any carbon does come out, it usually settles down into the
gravel shortly afterwards..



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 11:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another one
hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top looking sickly and
one just going crazy swimming about.

Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was 7.6.
Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap and it was 6.2

Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish back at top
of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going from hanging out at
the bottom for a while and then going to the top. One still fine.

Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to see what
happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing fine. Not sure if that
was the right thing to do but figured I needed healthy fish to test out
again. Hoping the others make it through the night, etc.

I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips which I
already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do there.

I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a strainer
(got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S (rinsed those
items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from Perfecto warehouse. It
was very dusty like it'd been stored for quite a while but we rinsed it well
before even setting it up.

I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd had for a
very long time and was happy someone was finally buying it. It looks good
with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.

My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as well as the
regular filter media and I have seen some bits of charcoal floating in the
tank. Could that be my problem?

Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't ask
them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know anything.

Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?

Tracy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.15/848 - Release Date: 6/13/2007
12:50 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22994 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
It would be better to use a non-aerosol pump spray or other treatment rather
than the bomb. I never did understand bombing for fleas. Fleas will be
living at ground level, usually in the carpeting. I could understand
bombing for roaches or other insects that travel inside walls and all over a
home but fleas aren't one of those insects. I would use a powdered carpet
treatment and vacuum more frequently and trash the vacuum bags each time to
get rid of any live fleas or eggs that are sucked up.

But.. if your only option is a bomb, you can seal the tank, filter and air
pump inside plastic and masking tape. Make sure the plastic covers the
entire tank, filters, etc., and then run the masking tape along all edges of
the plastic so it is taped well to the glass on the outside bottom of the
tank. If you have enough airline tubing to put the air pump outside so it
will constantly be pumping fresh air into the sealed tank, that would be
even better. Add fresh carbon or other chemical filtration to the filter
system(s) to remove any pesticides that might make it through your
protection.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of memphisgirl39
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 7:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in
the house

How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be move
with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I wont be
able to read the response until I get home from work.



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22995 From: Bethany Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
I am sorry, I was just thinking artificial light. Thanks!--- In
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> <<If you want to put the turtle outside to get sunlight. DO NOT leave
> them unattended for any period of time!
> Mike>>>
> That's how I lost my box turtle even though I had the fence dug in six
> inches into the ground.
> Turtles are escape artists.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22996 From: arty1pat@aol.com Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Tracy,
I am a newer than new newbie at keeping tropical fish and I had a
similar problem last month. I bought a 46 gal. hexagon tank with a bio-sphere
filter (remember I'm new at this and didn't know any better.) I put four white
clouds in it and one died after about two days. I took a water sample in to
the pet store and all was well. The salesman called it "one of those things"
and at $1.99 each I was okay with that. The next day another one was laying
on the bottom dead and noticed that it didn't have any tail fins and the
other two weren't looking so great. I went back to the pet shop and he wasn't
much more helpful. Temp was 76 and all the other numbers were good. I asked
if the fish could be getting caught somehow in the filter. I thought maybe
they were getting caught in the water intake mechanism (don't know any of the
technical terms) . He said "could be". I noticed that all the tanks in the
shop had sponges around this intake thing. So, I put a small piece of sponge
inside the basket at the bottom which may be what the basket is for but no
one told me that. I also bought 5 zebra danio and put them in and they are
thriving! It has been over two weeks with the new fish. I'm still not sure if
it was the filter or changing fish but it's working. Just a thought. And no,
I won't go back to that pet store! Good luck with your new tank.
Pat in KY



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22997 From: Bethany Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
THANKS that was very helpful.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> My suggestion is to get them some Anacharis which if you don't know
is a cheap water plant that they will love to eat red leaf lettuce and
other vegvies like cucumber and zucchini
> light wise all depends on what you are talking about you can get
the sunning lamps and leave it on for at least 10 hours a day or like
others have suggested the natural light is always good
>
> Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote:
> We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in
one tank and
> a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
> plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
> they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Got a little couch potato?
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22998 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Sprinkle your carpet and upholstered furniture with Borax. Let it set a
couple of hours, cover your tank, wear a dust mask and vacuum. Do it
again in about a week.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 22999 From: Chad Plum Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
Your welcome what size tank are they in?

Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote: THANKS that was very helpful.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> My suggestion is to get them some Anacharis which if you don't know
is a cheap water plant that they will love to eat red leaf lettuce and
other vegvies like cucumber and zucchini
> light wise all depends on what you are talking about you can get
the sunning lamps and leave it on for at least 10 hours a day or like
others have suggested the natural light is always good
>
> Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote:
> We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in
one tank and
> a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
> plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
> they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Got a little couch potato?
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23000 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Thank you for writing this! I'm glad to know I'm not alone in being
confused. I'm going to do all the ph tests tonight that were
recommended (high ph as well) and see where I stand that way. Not
making any changes to the water until I get some advice from my
readings though.

I think my strainer openings are smaller than my fish but I may just
look into the sponge thing. If it weren't for the betta having the
problem first I might think that was the issue but he was definitely
bigger than the strainer on the filter.

I don't mind being patient but I just feel bad for the fish. :o)

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, arty1pat@... wrote:
>
> Tracy,
> I am a newer than new newbie at keeping tropical fish and I
had a
> similar problem last month. I bought a 46 gal. hexagon tank with
a bio-sphere
> filter (remember I'm new at this and didn't know any better.) I
put four white
> clouds in it and one died after about two days. I took a water
sample in to
> the pet store and all was well. The salesman called it "one of
those things"
> and at $1.99 each I was okay with that. The next day another one
was laying
> on the bottom dead and noticed that it didn't have any tail fins
and the
> other two weren't looking so great. I went back to the pet shop
and he wasn't
> much more helpful. Temp was 76 and all the other numbers were
good. I asked
> if the fish could be getting caught somehow in the filter. I
thought maybe
> they were getting caught in the water intake mechanism (don't know
any of the
> technical terms) . He said "could be". I noticed that all the
tanks in the
> shop had sponges around this intake thing. So, I put a small
piece of sponge
> inside the basket at the bottom which may be what the basket is
for but no
> one told me that. I also bought 5 zebra danio and put them in and
they are
> thriving! It has been over two weeks with the new fish. I'm still
not sure if
> it was the filter or changing fish but it's working. Just a
thought. And no,
> I won't go back to that pet store! Good luck with your new tank.
> Pat in KY
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23001 From: Jessica Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Need Saltwater Clairification
A lot of people say that, but it's not totally true. Lots of people
have "nano" tanks and they are just fine. The rule though is the
larger the tank, the easier. The more water there is, the less
likely that if they chemicals go askew, the fish die. Think about
it. If you have a shot glass with water and a gallon jug of water
and you put a drop of blue food dye in each, which is more
concentrated? That's the reason people say that. I have a 55
gallon tank and had a 20 gallon tank each saltwater. They were both
fine.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
wrote:
>
> Before I get too involved in this saltwater project, I asked the
young
> man at my lfs if he had any good books on starting a saltwater
tank. I
> told him I was planning on doing a 30 gal one. He said it was too
> small and I would be doing things to it 2 or 3 times a day just to
get
> it started and keep it going. He said I needed a much larger
one.
> Now, was he correct or just trying to sell me their 55 gal or
larger
> tank? If this is going to be a really time consuming, leave me no
time
> for anything else but this tank, thing, I'd like to know before I
start
> it. I don't mind taking some time to have something as beautiful
as a
> saltwater environment, but I don't want to be totally consumed by
this,
> either. Please help! Thanks, Cory
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23002 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Holy cow Tracy!



Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.

Don’t worry about the high dose of Prime it won’t hurt your fish but it
doesn’t seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite was 0.

7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2 out of the tap
seems very strange to me.

I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I thought for
sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.

That’s a huge difference in PH and you won’t be able to force your fish
through changes like that quickly. I don’t thin there is a fish that
expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.

Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the container. At least
we will know that the cycle shouldn’t be the problem anymore.



We need to figure out what’s going on with the PH.

With that big of a difference it’s going to make water changes difficult or
rather more time consuming.



I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is possible.

Run the water for a while and test again.

Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as well.

I just can’t see tap water being that acidic however.



It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn’t be afraid of asking
the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in your area.



I read the later replies to this post now and you have good advice.
Checking your water station readings is good to know.



If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more difficult than
the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.

If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a test for
General hardness and KH as well.

Don’t worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that taken care
of.



If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly aged source
water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source and we can
get a better understanding of what’s going on there.



If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH difference
would greatly stress your fish.

Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc might be
permanent.

Don’t get more fish until you know what’s going on with the PH.

Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH but really
your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic community tank.

It’s just your source water that seems off to me.



Further testing should clarify what’s going on.



Paul

















From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank



Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.

Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
and it was 6.2

Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
top. One still fine.

Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
through the night, etc.

I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
there.

I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
(rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.

I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.

My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?

Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and didn't
ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
anything.

Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?

Tracy





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23003 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Ummm. I hate to break it to you but the Tetra-Care phone help line is
reading from information in a book and if it's anything as bad as the info
on their website for fish care and cycling, it's pretty bad. If your tap
and tank are more than 1.0 pH difference, you need to do 10% PWC's instead
of 25% or 40%. That way, your tanks pH will not change more than 0.1 pH.
You'll just have to do more frequent PWC's during the cycling process and
afterwards. Or if you age your water for a day, that would probably work
also... presuming it's a high CO2 level in your tap which is causing the low
pH. We need those baseline numbers to really know what's happening to your
tap before it goes in your tank to isolate where the pH bounce is coming
from.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Thanks Steve & Lenny! I lost the one danio that was floating near the bottom
yesterday when I checked on the tank this morning. :o( The others seem to be
doing just fine.

I'll follow the instructions you both posted and see what comes out of the
tests.

I also e-mailed the tetra-care line people and got a call back this morning.
Very friendly and helpful.

They can't figure out what might be wrong with my tank either though.
Unless it is the ph thing. That's the route I'll pursue for now. I need to
test the ph in the tank today to compare with what it was before I did the
water change (7.6).

Thank you all for your help!

Tracy



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23004 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Hi -

It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it to
the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit overnight
and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph tests.

Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from AQI
and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Holy cow Tracy!
>
>
>
> Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
>
> Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
but it
> doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite was
0.
>
> 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2 out
of the tap
> seems very strange to me.
>
> I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
thought for
> sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
>
> That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force your
fish
> through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
that
> expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
>
> Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the container.
At least
> we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
>
>
>
> We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
>
> With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
difficult or
> rather more time consuming.
>
>
>
> I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is possible.
>
> Run the water for a while and test again.
>
> Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
well.
>
> I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
>
>
>
> It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be afraid
of asking
> the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
your area.
>
>
>
> I read the later replies to this post now and you have good advice.
> Checking your water station readings is good to know.
>
>
>
> If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
difficult than
> the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
>
> If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a test
for
> General hardness and KH as well.
>
> Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
taken care
> of.
>
>
>
> If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly aged
source
> water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
and we can
> get a better understanding of what's going on there.
>
>
>
> If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
difference
> would greatly stress your fish.
>
> Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc might
be
> permanent.
>
> Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
>
> Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH but
really
> your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
community tank.
>
> It's just your source water that seems off to me.
>
>
>
> Further testing should clarify what's going on.
>
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
> One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
> one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
>
> Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
> 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
> and it was 6.2
>
> Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
> from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> top. One still fine.
>
> Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
> see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> through the night, etc.
>
> I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
> there.
>
> I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
> strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
> (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
> Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
>
> I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
> had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
> it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
>
> My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
>
> Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
didn't
> ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> anything.
>
> Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23005 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Darn! He sounded very knowledgable when he was explaining about how
he had just started a tank with danios there at work and they were
using Bio-Spira there as well as he had used it in his 40 seahorse
tank at home. I didn't go into the difference in tap ph vs. tank ph
with him though so he didn't have the whole puzzle.

Oh well. I'm getting great advice from here so I'll stick with that!

Thanks!
Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Ummm. I hate to break it to you but the Tetra-Care phone help line
is
> reading from information in a book and if it's anything as bad as
the info
> on their website for fish care and cycling, it's pretty bad. If
your tap
> and tank are more than 1.0 pH difference, you need to do 10% PWC's
instead
> of 25% or 40%. That way, your tanks pH will not change more than
0.1 pH.
> You'll just have to do more frequent PWC's during the cycling
process and
> afterwards. Or if you age your water for a day, that would
probably work
> also... presuming it's a high CO2 level in your tap which is
causing the low
> pH. We need those baseline numbers to really know what's happening
to your
> tap before it goes in your tank to isolate where the pH bounce is
coming
> from.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:35 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Thanks Steve & Lenny! I lost the one danio that was floating near
the bottom
> yesterday when I checked on the tank this morning. :o( The others
seem to be
> doing just fine.
>
> I'll follow the instructions you both posted and see what comes out
of the
> tests.
>
> I also e-mailed the tetra-care line people and got a call back this
morning.
> Very friendly and helpful.
>
> They can't figure out what might be wrong with my tank either
though.
> Unless it is the ph thing. That's the route I'll pursue for now. I
need to
> test the ph in the tank today to compare with what it was before I
did the
> water change (7.6).
>
> Thank you all for your help!
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date:
6/14/2007
> 12:44 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23006 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Let the water settle for a bit than test it.

It could be correct but time will tell.

I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank



Hi -

It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it to
the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit overnight
and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph tests.

Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from AQI
and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Holy cow Tracy!
>
>
>
> Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
>
> Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
but it
> doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite was
0.
>
> 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2 out
of the tap
> seems very strange to me.
>
> I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
thought for
> sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
>
> That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force your
fish
> through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
that
> expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
>
> Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the container.
At least
> we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
>
>
>
> We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
>
> With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
difficult or
> rather more time consuming.
>
>
>
> I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is possible.
>
> Run the water for a while and test again.
>
> Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
well.
>
> I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
>
>
>
> It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be afraid
of asking
> the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
your area.
>
>
>
> I read the later replies to this post now and you have good advice.
> Checking your water station readings is good to know.
>
>
>
> If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
difficult than
> the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
>
> If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a test
for
> General hardness and KH as well.
>
> Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
taken care
> of.
>
>
>
> If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly aged
source
> water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
and we can
> get a better understanding of what's going on there.
>
>
>
> If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
difference
> would greatly stress your fish.
>
> Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc might
be
> permanent.
>
> Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
>
> Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH but
really
> your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
community tank.
>
> It's just your source water that seems off to me.
>
>
>
> Further testing should clarify what's going on.
>
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
> One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
> one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
>
> Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
> 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
> and it was 6.2
>
> Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
> from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> top. One still fine.
>
> Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
> see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> through the night, etc.
>
> I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
> there.
>
> I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
> strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
> (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
> Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
>
> I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
> had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
> it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
>
> My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
>
> Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
didn't
> ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> anything.
>
> Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23007 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Need Saltwater Clairification
Jessica, thanks for the information. My husband really wants a saltwater tank and I thought the 30 gal would be okay.


----- Original Message ----
From: Jessica <jdecorse25@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 1:56:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Need Saltwater Clairification

A lot of people say that, but it's not totally true. Lots of people
have "nano" tanks and they are just fine. The rule though is the
larger the tank, the easier. The more water there is, the less
likely that if they chemicals go askew, the fish die. Think about
it. If you have a shot glass with water and a gallon jug of water
and you put a drop of blue food dye in each, which is more
concentrated? That's the reason people say that. I have a 55
gallon tank and had a 20 gallon tank each saltwater. They were both
fine.

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "coryswalter" <coryswalter@ ...>
wrote:
>
> Before I get too involved in this saltwater project, I asked the
young
> man at my lfs if he had any good books on starting a saltwater
tank. I
> told him I was planning on doing a 30 gal one. He said it was too
> small and I would be doing things to it 2 or 3 times a day just to
get
> it started and keep it going. He said I needed a much larger
one.
> Now, was he correct or just trying to sell me their 55 gal or
larger
> tank? If this is going to be a really time consuming, leave me no
time
> for anything else but this tank, thing, I'd like to know before I
start
> it. I don't mind taking some time to have something as beautiful
as a
> saltwater environment, but I don't want to be totally consumed by
this,
> either. Please help! Thanks, Cory
>






____________________________________________________________________________________
Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23008 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Ready or not!!

I took water out of the tap and put it in a bowl for a little over
ten minutes. Tested between 6.4 & 6.5 for the ph indicator. I put
some in the high ph and it tested on the low end of that 7.4

Here's where it's scary - tank right now ph indicator was 7.6, high
ph was 8.4!

Quite the difference! I've still got the bowl of water from the tap
sitting on the counter. Should I let it set for a while longer and
test later?

Of my original 5 danios only one is left. Couldn't find the other
slow swimmers this morning but found them tonight stuck to the
filter. All the rest in the tank are moving fine. One from the old
group, 8 from the new last night.

Should I go ahead in put in the Bio-Spira or wait until I figure
this ph thing out?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Let the water settle for a bit than test it.
>
> It could be correct but time will tell.
>
> I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23009 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
You should let the water sit at least overnight, if not for 24 hours
before retesting.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 9:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank -
Scary!!

Ready or not!!

I took water out of the tap and put it in a bowl for a little over
ten minutes. Tested between 6.4 & 6.5 for the ph indicator. I put
some in the high ph and it tested on the low end of that 7.4

Here's where it's scary - tank right now ph indicator was 7.6, high
ph was 8.4!

Quite the difference! I've still got the bowl of water from the tap
sitting on the counter. Should I let it set for a while longer and
test later?

Of my original 5 danios only one is left. Couldn't find the other
slow swimmers this morning but found them tonight stuck to the
filter. All the rest in the tank are moving fine. One from the old
group, 8 from the new last night.

Should I go ahead in put in the Bio-Spira or wait until I figure
this ph thing out?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Let the water settle for a bit than test it.
>
> It could be correct but time will tell.
>
> I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23010 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A glass
will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test that
same water again, you need a fresh sample.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Hi -

It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it to
the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit overnight
and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph tests.

Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from AQI
and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Holy cow Tracy!
>
>
>
> Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
>
> Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
but it
> doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite was
0.
>
> 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2 out
of the tap
> seems very strange to me.
>
> I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
thought for
> sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
>
> That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force your
fish
> through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
that
> expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
>
> Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the container.
At least
> we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
>
>
>
> We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
>
> With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
difficult or
> rather more time consuming.
>
>
>
> I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is possible.
>
> Run the water for a while and test again.
>
> Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
well.
>
> I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
>
>
>
> It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be afraid
of asking
> the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
your area.
>
>
>
> I read the later replies to this post now and you have good advice.
> Checking your water station readings is good to know.
>
>
>
> If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
difficult than
> the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
>
> If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a test
for
> General hardness and KH as well.
>
> Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
taken care
> of.
>
>
>
> If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly aged
source
> water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
and we can
> get a better understanding of what's going on there.
>
>
>
> If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
difference
> would greatly stress your fish.
>
> Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc might
be
> permanent.
>
> Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
>
> Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH but
really
> your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
community tank.
>
> It's just your source water that seems off to me.
>
>
>
> Further testing should clarify what's going on.
>
>
>
> Paul
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and Prime.
> One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and another
> one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
>
> Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it was
> 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the tap
> and it was 6.2
>
> Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one going
> from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> top. One still fine.
>
> Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios to
> see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> through the night, etc.
>
> I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to do
> there.
>
> I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well with a
> strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from Dr.F&S
> (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight from
> Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
>
> I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said he'd
> had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally buying
> it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
>
> My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
>
> Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
didn't
> ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> anything.
>
> Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
>
> Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23011 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the morning
and again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio-
Spira? I also picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the
advice of my small lfs down the road. Bottle says it adjusts high
or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff like Prime does. I'd like to
save the fish I have in there now if possible.

I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything is
aquarium approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got
from the lfs (he has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from
lfs and DrF&S, the gravel, plants, heater, filters and digital
thermometer. The only other thing that came to mind is when we were
originally setting up the tank (fishless) my husband took the
floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the tank with
the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in the
water to do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since
I've put up the tank and that was 40% last night.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
glass
> will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test
that
> same water again, you need a fresh sample.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23012 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
So what I’m reading is that your tap water is about 6.45 and your tank water
is 8.4?



If this is true there is something in your tank which is increasing your PH
a lot!

I’m guessing your substrate is the cause.



Can you tell us what’s in your tank again? Substrate type? Rocks? Wood?
Ornaments?

What size tank is it?

Let’s see what tap water is tomorrow but I can’t see it having that much CO2
in it.



I would keep the Bio spira in the fridge until tomorrow.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 15, 2007 7:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!



Ready or not!!

I took water out of the tap and put it in a bowl for a little over
ten minutes. Tested between 6.4 & 6.5 for the ph indicator. I put
some in the high ph and it tested on the low end of that 7.4

Here's where it's scary - tank right now ph indicator was 7.6, high
ph was 8.4!

Quite the difference! I've still got the bowl of water from the tap
sitting on the counter. Should I let it set for a while longer and
test later?

Of my original 5 danios only one is left. Couldn't find the other
slow swimmers this morning but found them tonight stuck to the
filter. All the rest in the tank are moving fine. One from the old
group, 8 from the new last night.

Should I go ahead in put in the Bio-Spira or wait until I figure
this ph thing out?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Let the water settle for a bit than test it.
>
> It could be correct but time will tell.
>
> I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23013 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Hold off on the regulator!!!!!

Don’t want to start chasing the dragon yet. Warned you about that stuff.
Seriously.

We should figure out what the cause of the PH swing is first.



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 15, 2007 7:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank



Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the morning
and again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio-
Spira? I also picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the
advice of my small lfs down the road. Bottle says it adjusts high
or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff like Prime does. I'd like to
save the fish I have in there now if possible.

I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything is
aquarium approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got
from the lfs (he has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from
lfs and DrF&S, the gravel, plants, heater, filters and digital
thermometer. The only other thing that came to mind is when we were
originally setting up the tank (fishless) my husband took the
floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the tank with
the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in the
water to do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since
I've put up the tank and that was 40% last night.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
glass
> will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test
that
> same water again, you need a fresh sample.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23014 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Okay sorry for dumb questions but just want to be clear.

The Dr F&S substrate. Is it the natural gravel?

I’m wondering if you didn’t get a marine substrate by mistake?





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paul H
Sent: June 15, 2007 8:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank



Hold off on the regulator!!!!!

Don’t want to start chasing the dragon yet. Warned you about that stuff.
Seriously.

We should figure out what the cause of the PH swing is first.

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 15, 2007 7:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the morning
and again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio-
Spira? I also picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the
advice of my small lfs down the road. Bottle says it adjusts high
or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff like Prime does. I'd like to
save the fish I have in there now if possible.

I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything is
aquarium approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got
from the lfs (he has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from
lfs and DrF&S, the gravel, plants, heater, filters and digital
thermometer. The only other thing that came to mind is when we were
originally setting up the tank (fishless) my husband took the
floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the tank with
the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in the
water to do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since
I've put up the tank and that was 40% last night.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
glass
> will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test
that
> same water again, you need a fresh sample.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23015 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Bio-Spira now in fridge. I listed what I had in the tank in the
last e-mail. I can't remember the brand name of the substrate
gravel but I got it from the small lfs down the road and he has the
same type and color in his tanks (one of the reasons I chose it).
It's blues, darker and a little lighter. I have 60 lbs of it in the
52 gal aquarium.

He said he has a problem with too low of a ph due to overcrowding in
the tank and uses this Seachem stuff.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> So what I'm reading is that your tap water is about 6.45 and your
tank water
> is 8.4?
>
>
>
> If this is true there is something in your tank which is
increasing your PH
> a lot!
>
> I'm guessing your substrate is the cause.
>
>
>
> Can you tell us what's in your tank again? Substrate type? Rocks?
Wood?
> Ornaments?
>
> What size tank is it?
>
> Let's see what tap water is tomorrow but I can't see it having
that much CO2
> in it.
>
>
>
> I would keep the Bio spira in the fridge until tomorrow.
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23016 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Nope - got it from the small lfs down the road. If he was still
open (closed at 7pm) I'd call and ask him the brand name. I threw
away the receipt and the bags after we loaded the tank last weekend
dang it.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Okay sorry for dumb questions but just want to be clear.
>
> The Dr F&S substrate. Is it the natural gravel?
>
> I'm wondering if you didn't get a marine substrate by mistake?
>
>
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Paul H
> Sent: June 15, 2007 8:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater
tank
>
>
>
> Hold off on the regulator!!!!!
>
> Don't want to start chasing the dragon yet. Warned you about that
stuff.
> Seriously.
>
> We should figure out what the cause of the PH swing is first.
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 15, 2007 7:56 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the
morning
> and again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio-
> Spira? I also picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the
> advice of my small lfs down the road. Bottle says it adjusts high
> or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff like Prime does. I'd like to
> save the fish I have in there now if possible.
>
> I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything
is
> aquarium approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got
> from the lfs (he has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from
> lfs and DrF&S, the gravel, plants, heater, filters and digital
> thermometer. The only other thing that came to mind is when we
were
> originally setting up the tank (fishless) my husband took the
> floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the tank
with
> the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
> out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in
the
> water to do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since
> I've put up the tank and that was 40% last night.
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
> glass
> > will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot
test
> that
> > same water again, you need a fresh sample.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> > Hi -
> >
> > It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> > just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled
it
> to
> > the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
> or
> > glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> > need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon
of
> > water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
> overnight
> > and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
> tests.
> >
> > Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test
kit
> > won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
> AQI
> > and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> , "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Holy cow Tracy!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> > >
> > > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your
fish
> > but it
> > > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
> was
> > 0.
> > >
> > > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
> out
> > of the tap
> > > seems very strange to me.
> > >
> > > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> > thought for
> > > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> > >
> > > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
> your
> > fish
> > > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a
fish
> > that
> > > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> > >
> > > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
> container.
> > At least
> > > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> > >
> > > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> > difficult or
> > > rather more time consuming.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
> possible.
> > >
> > > Run the water for a while and test again.
> > >
> > > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much
as
> > well.
> > >
> > > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
> afraid
> > of asking
> > > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions
in
> > your area.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
> advice.
> > > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> > difficult than
> > > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> > >
> > > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
> test
> > for
> > > General hardness and KH as well.
> > >
> > > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> > taken care
> > > of.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
> aged
> > source
> > > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both
source
> > and we can
> > > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> > difference
> > > would greatly stress your fish.
> > >
> > > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
> might
> > be
> > > permanent.
> > >
> > > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> > >
> > > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks
PH
> but
> > really
> > > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> > community tank.
> > >
> > > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> ] On
> > > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
> Prime.
> > > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
> another
> > > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> > >
> > > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
> was
> > > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
> tap
> > > and it was 6.2
> > >
> > > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4
fish
> > > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
> going
> > > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to
the
> > > top. One still fine.
> > >
> > > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
> to
> > > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make
it
> > > through the night, etc.
> > >
> > > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the
strips
> > > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what
to
> do
> > > there.
> > >
> > > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
> with a
> > > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
> Dr.F&S
> > > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
> from
> > > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored
for
> > > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> > >
> > > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
> he'd
> > > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
> buying
> > > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> > >
> > > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container
as
> > > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> > >
> > > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> > didn't
> > > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > > anything.
> > >
> > > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> > >
> > > Tracy
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23017 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
I'm looking for a bag that looks similar to what I remember the
gravel coming in and it looks like Top Fin Dark Blue.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Nope - got it from the small lfs down the road. If he was still
> open (closed at 7pm) I'd call and ask him the brand name. I
threw
> away the receipt and the bags after we loaded the tank last
weekend
> dang it.
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Okay sorry for dumb questions but just want to be clear.
> >
> > The Dr F&S substrate. Is it the natural gravel?
> >
> > I'm wondering if you didn't get a marine substrate by mistake?
> >
> >
> >
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
I cannot advise you on the use of Biospira sine I have never used it.
Someone else can chime in here to give you instructions.

Do not start messing with your pH by adding chemicals. Do not mess with
your pH until we start to understand what is going on in your tank.
Trying to change water chemistry is pretty much a lost cause. It is
possible that your water is infused with CO2 and the regaining of a
gaseous equilibrium is what causes your rise in pH. The readings you now
have in your tank may be the reading you need to live with and adjust
the fish you want to keep to those that will do well in a high pH.

I doubt that the thermometer ha anything to do with your pH issue.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 9:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the morning
and again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio-
Spira? I also picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the
advice of my small lfs down the road. Bottle says it adjusts high
or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff like Prime does. I'd like to
save the fish I have in there now if possible.

I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything is
aquarium approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got
from the lfs (he has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from
lfs and DrF&S, the gravel, plants, heater, filters and digital
thermometer. The only other thing that came to mind is when we were
originally setting up the tank (fishless) my husband took the
floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the tank with
the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in the
water to do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since
I've put up the tank and that was 40% last night.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
glass
> will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test
that
> same water again, you need a fresh sample.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I
> just put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I
> need to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of
> water in a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top
> > looking sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish
> > back at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing
> > fine. Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I
> > needed healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it
> > through the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23019 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Okee dokee. I'm in a holding pattern until I hear otherwise.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I cannot advise you on the use of Biospira sine I have never used
it.
> Someone else can chime in here to give you instructions.
>
> Do not start messing with your pH by adding chemicals. Do not mess
with
> your pH until we start to understand what is going on in your tank.
> Trying to change water chemistry is pretty much a lost cause. It is
> possible that your water is infused with CO2 and the regaining of a
> gaseous equilibrium is what causes your rise in pH. The readings
you now
> have in your tank may be the reading you need to live with and
adjust
> the fish you want to keep to those that will do well in a high pH.
>
> I doubt that the thermometer ha anything to do with your pH issue.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23020 From: Paul H Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_al
l_top/104-4659954-1518363?ie=UTF8
<http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_a
ll_top/104-4659954-1518363?ie=UTF8&n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews>
&n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews



That stuff.

If that’s what it is then that’s not the problem.

Pure H2O is Ph 7.0 and wants to be that way in my understanding.

Acid substances and gasses like CO2 decrease PH and alkaline substances like
crushed coral increase it.

That’s pretty much my basic understanding of it.



So that’s why some suspect CO2 in source water but I suspect something
alkaline in your tank.

It’s the basic principle. Fighting your water is a tough battle and that’s
what the regulator may do.

I could be wrong and perhaps a regulator is what you need but I would be
very sure before starting down that path.

My advice is to naturally stabilize the PH by removing what is causing a big
swing like that.

Hopefully letting your water sit will help. Also look for things in the
tank that increase PH and remove them.

Ideally everything in your tank should be as close to neutral in my honest
opinion and then your tank water should be close to what your source water
is.

Then you know what fish you can keep.

Add buffers or regulators and then you have to keep adding buffers or
regulators until your water is full of dissolved solids etc. or going
through crazy PH swings. It can be done but unless your trying to figure
out how to have a certain species breed or something like that then how
could it be worth it?

Consider how much a rain storm water of PH 7.0 for example would effect a
stream of PH 6.5 water. That is a typical example of what a freshwater fish
can safely handle.



I’m just very puzzled as well and am very curious of what is happening.













From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 15, 2007 8:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank



I'm looking for a bag that looks similar to what I remember the
gravel coming in and it looks like Top Fin Dark Blue.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Nope - got it from the small lfs down the road. If he was still
> open (closed at 7pm) I'd call and ask him the brand name. I
threw
> away the receipt and the bags after we loaded the tank last
weekend
> dang it.
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Okay sorry for dumb questions but just want to be clear.
> >
> > The Dr F&S substrate. Is it the natural gravel?
> >
> > I'm wondering if you didn't get a marine substrate by mistake?
> >
> >
> >
> >





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23021 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
OK. You need to use the high pH test kit on your tank for certain since it
is pegging out the low pH test kit. For your tap, initially, it sounds like
you need to use the low pH test kit and high pH test kit each time during
the 24 hour and 48 hour baseline tests until you see which test is going to
have the correct range. Right out the tap, it appears the low pH test kit
will be in range since the high pH test kit showed the bottom indicator. My
pH is high out the tap but sometimes during the winter months, the pH would
drop down to the 7.4-7.6 range so if the high pH test kit shows the bottom
level, then use the low pH test kit to verify whether it's actually lower
than that bottomed out level.

Since your tank pegged out the top scale of the low pH test kit, I would use
the high pH reading of 8.4. I know it sounds high but it's not too high for
a lot of fish. We still do not know if that is your tap water pH after it
outgased whatever is causing it to change or if it's something in your tank
that is raising it so high. What were the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH and
GH readings along with the pH readings and temperature of your tap and tank.
These other numbers tell us things also.

You should check out the fish profiles, at http://fish.mongabay.com (use the
search field and put in your common name or scientific name) on your fish or
proposed fish if the high pH is going to be what you will be dealing with on
an ongoing basis. It's much easier on you, your tank and your fish if you
keep fish that are compatible with your tap/source water.... rather than
trying to change the pH and keep it changed to a consistently lower number.


Further, as your tank matures with the nitrogen cycle and the rest of the
ecology and biology of the tank, the pH will "naturally" come down in the
tank as a result of decaying detritus putting out carbonic acid and your
various bacteria's using KH and other trace minerals. These will lower your
pH, assuming there isn't something else in your tank that isn't leeching
into the water that will keep raising it.

As far as the Bio-Spira, I know the instructions call for adding Bio-Spira
to an empty tank and then adding a "full" bioload of fish the next day. I'm
not sure how Bio-Spira affects fish already in a tank. You might want to go
to http://www.Marineland.com and use their "contact us" page to ask them
about how it affects tanks with fish already in the tank. It probably won't
hurt but it does probably cause an ammonia spike to feed the bacteria and
with your high pH, your fish couldn't handle an ammonia spike of even
0.25ppm. Ammonia becomes far more toxic at higher pH levels. I think you
already have this page, but if not, look at the charts and info here...
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!

Ready or not!!

I took water out of the tap and put it in a bowl for a little over ten
minutes. Tested between 6.4 & 6.5 for the ph indicator. I put some in the
high ph and it tested on the low end of that 7.4

Here's where it's scary - tank right now ph indicator was 7.6, high ph was
8.4!

Quite the difference! I've still got the bowl of water from the tap sitting
on the counter. Should I let it set for a while longer and test later?

Of my original 5 danios only one is left. Couldn't find the other slow
swimmers this morning but found them tonight stuck to the filter. All the
rest in the tank are moving fine. One from the old group, 8 from the new
last night.

Should I go ahead in put in the Bio-Spira or wait until I figure this ph
thing out?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> Let the water settle for a bit than test it.
>
> It could be correct but time will tell.
>
> I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
>
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I just
> put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I need
> to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of water in
> a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top looking
> > sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish back
> > at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing fine.
> > Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I needed
> > healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it through
> > the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23022 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Makes sense to me not to mess with it. Should I start removing one
piece of ornament at a time? How long would it take for the ph to
go down if I did that or would it not go down until a water change.
Then I'm worried about the big ph shift with a water change.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-
reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_al
> l_top/104-4659954-1518363?ie=UTF8
> <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-
reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_a
> ll_top/104-4659954-1518363?
ie=UTF8&n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews>
> &n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews
>
>
>
> That stuff.
>
> If that's what it is then that's not the problem.
>
> Pure H2O is Ph 7.0 and wants to be that way in my understanding.
>
> Acid substances and gasses like CO2 decrease PH and alkaline
substances like
> crushed coral increase it.
>
> That's pretty much my basic understanding of it.
>
>
>
> So that's why some suspect CO2 in source water but I suspect
something
> alkaline in your tank.
>
> It's the basic principle. Fighting your water is a tough battle
and that's
> what the regulator may do.
>
> I could be wrong and perhaps a regulator is what you need but I
would be
> very sure before starting down that path.
>
> My advice is to naturally stabilize the PH by removing what is
causing a big
> swing like that.
>
> Hopefully letting your water sit will help. Also look for things
in the
> tank that increase PH and remove them.
>
> Ideally everything in your tank should be as close to neutral in
my honest
> opinion and then your tank water should be close to what your
source water
> is.
>
> Then you know what fish you can keep.
>
> Add buffers or regulators and then you have to keep adding buffers
or
> regulators until your water is full of dissolved solids etc. or
going
> through crazy PH swings. It can be done but unless your trying to
figure
> out how to have a certain species breed or something like that
then how
> could it be worth it?
>
> Consider how much a rain storm water of PH 7.0 for example would
effect a
> stream of PH 6.5 water. That is a typical example of what a
freshwater fish
> can safely handle.
>
>
>
> I'm just very puzzled as well and am very curious of what is
happening.
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23023 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank - Scary!!
Thanks Lenny! It looks like I can add Bio-spira with fish in
there. This is from the website -

CRITICAL CARE INFORMATION:
For new aquariums, first condition water with BIO-Safe™. Adjust
aquarium water temperature. Add BIO-Spira™ and BIO-Coat™ along with
fish. See your retailer for advice on the number of fish appropriate
the size of your aquarium. BIO-Spira may also be added with each
water change, when adding additional fish, and established aquaria
that are experiencing water quality problems due to disruption of
the bio-filter.

Except for the high ph problem you mentioned with my fish maybe not
being able to handle the ammonia spike. :o(

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. You need to use the high pH test kit on your tank for certain
since it
> is pegging out the low pH test kit. For your tap, initially, it
sounds like
> you need to use the low pH test kit and high pH test kit each time
during
> the 24 hour and 48 hour baseline tests until you see which test is
going to
> have the correct range. Right out the tap, it appears the low pH
test kit
> will be in range since the high pH test kit showed the bottom
indicator. My
> pH is high out the tap but sometimes during the winter months, the
pH would
> drop down to the 7.4-7.6 range so if the high pH test kit shows
the bottom
> level, then use the low pH test kit to verify whether it's
actually lower
> than that bottomed out level.
>
> Since your tank pegged out the top scale of the low pH test kit, I
would use
> the high pH reading of 8.4. I know it sounds high but it's not
too high for
> a lot of fish. We still do not know if that is your tap water pH
after it
> outgased whatever is causing it to change or if it's something in
your tank
> that is raising it so high. What were the ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, KH and
> GH readings along with the pH readings and temperature of your tap
and tank.
> These other numbers tell us things also.
>
> You should check out the fish profiles, at
http://fish.mongabay.com (use the
> search field and put in your common name or scientific name) on
your fish or
> proposed fish if the high pH is going to be what you will be
dealing with on
> an ongoing basis. It's much easier on you, your tank and your
fish if you
> keep fish that are compatible with your tap/source water....
rather than
> trying to change the pH and keep it changed to a consistently
lower number.
>
>
> Further, as your tank matures with the nitrogen cycle and the rest
of the
> ecology and biology of the tank, the pH will "naturally" come down
in the
> tank as a result of decaying detritus putting out carbonic acid
and your
> various bacteria's using KH and other trace minerals. These will
lower your
> pH, assuming there isn't something else in your tank that isn't
leeching
> into the water that will keep raising it.
>
> As far as the Bio-Spira, I know the instructions call for adding
Bio-Spira
> to an empty tank and then adding a "full" bioload of fish the next
day. I'm
> not sure how Bio-Spira affects fish already in a tank. You might
want to go
> to http://www.Marineland.com and use their "contact us" page to
ask them
> about how it affects tanks with fish already in the tank. It
probably won't
> hurt but it does probably cause an ammonia spike to feed the
bacteria and
> with your high pH, your fish couldn't handle an ammonia spike of
even
> 0.25ppm. Ammonia becomes far more toxic at higher pH levels. I
think you
> already have this page, but if not, look at the charts and info
here...
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:01 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank -
Scary!!
>
> Ready or not!!
>
> I took water out of the tap and put it in a bowl for a little over
ten
> minutes. Tested between 6.4 & 6.5 for the ph indicator. I put some
in the
> high ph and it tested on the low end of that 7.4
>
> Here's where it's scary - tank right now ph indicator was 7.6,
high ph was
> 8.4!
>
> Quite the difference! I've still got the bowl of water from the
tap sitting
> on the counter. Should I let it set for a while longer and test
later?
>
> Of my original 5 danios only one is left. Couldn't find the other
slow
> swimmers this morning but found them tonight stuck to the filter.
All the
> rest in the tank are moving fine. One from the old group, 8 from
the new
> last night.
>
> Should I go ahead in put in the Bio-Spira or wait until I figure
this ph
> thing out?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Let the water settle for a bit than test it.
> >
> > It could be correct but time will tell.
> >
> > I look forward to hearing what the results of the tests are.
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 15, 2007 12:46 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23024 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Found new info on ph problem
Hi -

I found someone else having a similar problem post on this site (just
scroll down to it). I've just tried the gravel thing next to the bowl
with just tap water. Anyone ever hear of the R/O filter?

http://www.aquariumfish.net/pages/submitted_feedback_page_7.htm

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23025 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
I would not use chemicals to adjust your pH right now. We are trying to
find out what's causing it to bounce so more chemicals would just make
things more difficult. Have you added any other "fix-all" chemicals
recommended by the LFS? Besides dechlor, I don't add any other chemicals to
my tanks.

Take some pics of your rocks that you added or look over these pages for
more info on rocks.
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/aquascaping/rocks.shtml or
http://www.uniquaria.com/articles/sr.html Rocks could certainly be a source
of your higher pH.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 8:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Ok. I'll leave that same bowl out overnight, test it in the morning and
again tomorrow night. In the meantime do I put in the Bio- Spira? I also
picked up some SeaChem Neutral Regulator on the advice of my small lfs down
the road. Bottle says it adjusts high or low ph to 7.0 and removes stuff
like Prime does. I'd like to save the fish I have in there now if possible.

I've been racking my brain on what could be in there. Everything is aquarium
approved. I have three little shale type rocks that I got from the lfs (he
has several of them in his tanks), ornaments from lfs and DrF&S, the gravel,
plants, heater, filters and digital thermometer. The only other thing that
came to mind is when we were originally setting up the tank (fishless) my
husband took the floating thermometer I bought and tried to stick it to the
tank with the suction cup, pushed to hard and broke it. We got the one end
out of the water immediately but could something have gotten in the water to
do this ph thing? I only did the one water change since I've put up the tank
and that was 40% last night.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> You do not need a gallon. But enough to get a few tests from. A
glass
> will be sufficient. One you have tested the water, you cannot test
that
> same water again, you need a fresh sample.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 2:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
>
> Hi -
>
> It sounds like I may have tested the water from the tap wrong? I just
> put the little test tube right under the faucet and filled it
to
> the line the directions called for. I didn't put it in a bucket
or
> glass first or let it run for a bit first. So, when I get home I need
> to test the water in the tank again and then put a gallon of water in
> a container and test that? Maybe then let it sit
overnight
> and test it again? I'll do both the regular ph and the high ph
tests.
>
> Just want to make sure I have my plan in place. My Hagen test kit
> won't come in until next week so I only have the other one from
AQI
> and it doesn't seem to have GH or KH?
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Paul H" <paul444@> wrote:
> >
> > Holy cow Tracy!
> >
> >
> >
> > Seems the problem is your PH. Something is off there.
> >
> > Don't worry about the high dose of Prime it won't hurt your fish
> but it
> > doesn't seem that it was necessary if your ammonia and nitrite
was
> 0.
> >
> > 7.6 is an average Ph for regular community tank water but 6.2
out
> of the tap
> > seems very strange to me.
> >
> > I wish I knew that before I recommended the water change. I
> thought for
> > sure you had a huge amount of ammonia or nitrite.
> >
> > That's a huge difference in PH and you won't be able to force
your
> fish
> > through changes like that quickly. I don't thin there is a fish
> that
> > expierences a change like that in nature all of a sudden.
> >
> > Add the bio spira and just follow the directions on the
container.
> At least
> > we will know that the cycle shouldn't be the problem anymore.
> >
> >
> >
> > We need to figure out what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > With that big of a difference it's going to make water changes
> difficult or
> > rather more time consuming.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suspect the tap water reading may not be right but it is
possible.
> >
> > Run the water for a while and test again.
> >
> > Even still there is something going on to raise it that much as
> well.
> >
> > I just can't see tap water being that acidic however.
> >
> >
> >
> > It sucks that your having such a hard start. I wouldn't be
afraid
> of asking
> > the fish shop questions especially about the water conditions in
> your area.
> >
> >
> >
> > I read the later replies to this post now and you have good
advice.
> > Checking your water station readings is good to know.
> >
> >
> >
> > If the PH readings are true than its going to be a bit more
> difficult than
> > the average fish keeper to maintain your tank.
> >
> > If you did get the Hagen mini master test kit it will have a
test
> for
> > General hardness and KH as well.
> >
> > Don't worry about the chlorine test. The prime will have that
> taken care
> > of.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you can re test and post the PH of your tank and slightly
aged
> source
> > water again and if possible tell us the KH and GH of both source
> and we can
> > get a better understanding of what's going on there.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you added fish without a length acclimating process the PH
> difference
> > would greatly stress your fish.
> >
> > Unfortunately some of the damage it would cause to gills etc
might
> be
> > permanent.
> >
> > Don't get more fish until you know what's going on with the PH.
> >
> > Things like substrate and ornaments will increase your tanks PH
but
> really
> > your tanks PH is pretty much in the normal range for a basic
> community tank.
> >
> > It's just your source water that seems off to me.
> >
> >
> >
> > Further testing should clarify what's going on.
> >
> >
> >
> > Paul
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: June 14, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Test results on my new freshwater tank
> >
> >
> >
> > Ok. Came home with an Aquariam Pharmaceuticals test kit and
Prime.
> > One danio pretty much dead, died soon after I got home and
another
> > one hanging out at the bottom looking sickly. Two at the top looking
> > sickly and one just going crazy swimming about.
> >
> > Tested for ammonia 0, tested for nitrites 0, tested ph and it
was
> > 7.6. Didn't do the high ph test. Should I? Tested ph from the
tap
> > and it was 6.2
> >
> > Did a 40% water change adding prime at 5 times the dose. 4 fish back
> > at top of tank. Two still swimming slowly at times, one
going
> > from hanging out at the bottom for a while and then going to the
> > top. One still fine.
> >
> > Getting the Bio-spira tomorrow so decided to get 6 more danios
to
> > see what happens there. Put them in tonight and they are doing fine.
> > Not sure if that was the right thing to do but figured I needed
> > healthy fish to test out again. Hoping the others make it through
> > the night, etc.
> >
> > I can't find a liquid test kit for chlorine. Only had the strips
> > which I already have and it said safe before so not sure what to
do
> > there.
> >
> > I have no idea what is going on here. I rinsed my rocks well
with a
> > strainer (got them from small lfs). Got everything else from
Dr.F&S
> > (rinsed those items too), got my tank from small lfs straight
from
> > Perfecto warehouse. It was very dusty like it'd been stored for
> > quite a while but we rinsed it well before even setting it up.
> >
> > I did get one anchor ornament from the small lfs that he said
he'd
> > had for a very long time and was happy someone was finally
buying
> > it. It looks good with the ships I got from Dr. F&S.
> >
> > My filters have the activated charcoal in the media container as
> > well as the regular filter media and I have seen some bits of
> > charcoal floating in the tank. Could that be my problem?
> >
> > Only got the fish from Petsmart and some of the test kits and
> didn't
> > ask them for advice as I was already told they wouldn't know
> > anything.
> >
> > Anybody got any ideas what could be happening here?
> >
> > Tracy
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23026 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Just let us know if you get low on fuel. ;-)

I gave my info on the Bio-Spira in a previous reply.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 9:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Okee dokee. I'm in a holding pattern until I hear otherwise.

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I cannot advise you on the use of Biospira sine I have never used
it.
> Someone else can chime in here to give you instructions.
>
> Do not start messing with your pH by adding chemicals. Do not mess
with
> your pH until we start to understand what is going on in your tank.
> Trying to change water chemistry is pretty much a lost cause. It is
> possible that your water is infused with CO2 and the regaining of a
> gaseous equilibrium is what causes your rise in pH. The readings
you now
> have in your tank may be the reading you need to live with and
adjust
> the fish you want to keep to those that will do well in a high pH.
>
> I doubt that the thermometer ha anything to do with your pH issue.
>
>
> \\Steve//


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23027 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank
Don't do anything right now until we get your baseline tap/source water
levels so we will have a better idea if it's something in the tank or if it
was due to something in your tap/source water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Test results on my new freshwater tank

Makes sense to me not to mess with it. Should I start removing one piece of
ornament at a time? How long would it take for the ph to go down if I did
that or would it not go down until a water change.
Then I'm worried about the big ph shift with a water change.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Paul H" <paul444@...> wrote:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-
> <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer->
reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_al
> l_top/104-4659954-1518363?ie=UTF8
> <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer-
> <http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/customer->
reviews/B0009YUHWS/ref=cm_cr_dp_a
> ll_top/104-4659954-1518363?
ie=UTF8&n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews>
> &n=284507&s=kitchen#customerReviews
>
>
>
> That stuff.
>
> If that's what it is then that's not the problem.
>
> Pure H2O is Ph 7.0 and wants to be that way in my understanding.
>
> Acid substances and gasses like CO2 decrease PH and alkaline
substances like
> crushed coral increase it.
>
> That's pretty much my basic understanding of it.
>
>
>
> So that's why some suspect CO2 in source water but I suspect
something
> alkaline in your tank.
>
> It's the basic principle. Fighting your water is a tough battle
and that's
> what the regulator may do.
>
> I could be wrong and perhaps a regulator is what you need but I
would be
> very sure before starting down that path.
>
> My advice is to naturally stabilize the PH by removing what is
causing a big
> swing like that.
>
> Hopefully letting your water sit will help. Also look for things
in the
> tank that increase PH and remove them.
>
> Ideally everything in your tank should be as close to neutral in
my honest
> opinion and then your tank water should be close to what your
source water
> is.
>
> Then you know what fish you can keep.
>
> Add buffers or regulators and then you have to keep adding buffers
or
> regulators until your water is full of dissolved solids etc. or
going
> through crazy PH swings. It can be done but unless your trying to
figure
> out how to have a certain species breed or something like that
then how
> could it be worth it?
>
> Consider how much a rain storm water of PH 7.0 for example would
effect a
> stream of PH 6.5 water. That is a typical example of what a
freshwater fish
> can safely handle.
>
>
>
> I'm just very puzzled as well and am very curious of what is
happening.
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23028 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/15/2007
Subject: Re: Found new info on ph problem
RO is reverse osmosis, which basically takes everything out of the water.
Some folks use a mix of RO water and their tap water to come up with a pH
and hardness level that they like... but you don't need to jump into RO yet
since we don't know for certain that it is your tap/source water that is the
cause. Just keep testing your bowl of water every 12-24 hours for the two
days and lets see if that is the issue. If your tap/source is in the 8.0 pH
range, then you can decide if you want to keep fish that prefer higher pH
levels or if you want to adjust your pH on an ongoing and constant basis.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Found new info on ph problem

Hi -

I found someone else having a similar problem post on this site (just scroll
down to it). I've just tried the gravel thing next to the bowl with just tap
water. Anyone ever hear of the R/O filter?

http://www.aquariumfish.net/pages/submitted_feedback_page_7.htm
<http://www.aquariumfish.net/pages/submitted_feedback_page_7.htm>

Tracy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.8.16/849 - Release Date: 6/14/2007
12:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23029 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
I wouldn’t pick up a fish tank with water in it, not more than an inch of
water. Can’t this cause leaks?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jett07002
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon
freshwater tank in the house



--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@...> wrote:
>
> How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be
> move with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I
> wont be able to read the response until I get home from work.
>

If it's about 10 gallons, you can take some water out of it so
it doesn't spill over too much and you could probably pick it up. Two
people to hold a side apiece is better. Full tank could weigh about
80 pounds, theoretically, but if you take out about half the water it
shouldn't be too bad. Catch the water in a clean pail and you can pur
it back in after you move it.

If the tank is bigger, you have a problem. If that's the case,
I would cover it with plastic sheeting --- turn off the air pumps and
filters ------and be sure to cover them up good, too. You don't want
any of the insecticide that may get on them to be blown in the water
when you start them up.

You can leave the tank covered for a little while. It wont hurt
the fish. I've done it when painting, etc. many times. Oh, BTW,
don't turn the tank lights on either. Might melt the plastic or start
a fire.

Good luck. You may have to do this a few times. Usually after the
eggs hatch. Fleas can be a real nuisance.

joe t





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23030 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Found new info on ph problem
RO has been in the hobby for quite some time now. It was brought to us
through the marine branch of the hobby where water quality is
everything. It can remove a lot of stuff from the water it processes,
but can also be very wasteful of water. I have never felt the need to
use one, but have heard that you could discard as much as 4 gallons for
every one gallon you get from it, It works by using a number of
specialized filters, each designed to remove specific molecules from the
water. From what I understand, the design has improved quite a bit, and
it is not so wasteful of water, and you do not need to babysit it as it
is doing its thing. Depending on the filters and the amount of water you
need to process and the amount of whatever you need to remove, it could
become a bit expensive to run. It is something to use only if it is
found to be needed to provide a proper water quality.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 11:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Found new info on ph problem

Hi -

I found someone else having a similar problem post on this site (just
scroll down to it). I've just tried the gravel thing next to the bowl
with just tap water. Anyone ever hear of the R/O filter?

http://www.aquariumfish.net/pages/submitted_feedback_page_7.htm

Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23031 From: wongyowmings Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: any malaysian here from selangor
any malaysian thatlike to keep fish and coral reef?or freshwater
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23032 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Ph testing this morning
Tentative Woo Hoo! I think I found the culprit!! Emphasis on think
though. :o)

I did not add anything to my tank. I did however take out one
item. The anchor ornament that my husband desperately wanted (he
works on the docks and thought it was cool to have a ship wreck
theme). I was told by the small lfs that he'd had that anchor since
he bought the store 8 years ago. I just started to wonder if maybe
it didn't meet today's standards in aquarium ornaments so I took it
out.

All 9 fish alive and swimming normal this morning. Here's the ph
readings -

Tank 7.8!
Tap overnight 7.8!
Tap overnight with gravel in bowl - 7.8!

Did another test of straight from tap after sitting about 5
minutes. Husband helped me read it as it's really hard to tell but
we agree it's 7.0. Probably has been all along. Since he paints
cars he's better at distinguishing color than I am.

We dropped the anchor ornament in the water we pulled straight from
tap this morning so I'll test that tonight along with re-tests of
everything else.

If it all tests out like I'm hoping I'll add the Bio-Spira tonight
unless you all think I should still wait?

Thanks!
Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23033 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water? If it
is municipal, you can get their test results either from their web site,
or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH will be
one of the measurements they give you. If it varies significantly from
what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a call to
discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is changing and
why.

If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>. However, it
will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or 24 hour
period.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ph testing this morning

Tentative Woo Hoo! I think I found the culprit!! Emphasis on think
though. :o)

I did not add anything to my tank. I did however take out one
item. The anchor ornament that my husband desperately wanted (he
works on the docks and thought it was cool to have a ship wreck
theme). I was told by the small lfs that he'd had that anchor since
he bought the store 8 years ago. I just started to wonder if maybe
it didn't meet today's standards in aquarium ornaments so I took it
out.

All 9 fish alive and swimming normal this morning. Here's the ph
readings -

Tank 7.8!
Tap overnight 7.8!
Tap overnight with gravel in bowl - 7.8!

Did another test of straight from tap after sitting about 5
minutes. Husband helped me read it as it's really hard to tell but
we agree it's 7.0. Probably has been all along. Since he paints
cars he's better at distinguishing color than I am.

We dropped the anchor ornament in the water we pulled straight from
tap this morning so I'll test that tonight along with re-tests of
everything else.

If it all tests out like I'm hoping I'll add the Bio-Spira tonight
unless you all think I should still wait?

Thanks!
Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23034 From: jett07002 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I wouldn't pick up a fish tank with water in it, not more than an
inch of
> water. Can't this cause leaks?
>
>
> I understand your concern, Donna, and if it's an all glass tank it
wont leak unless you really twist it somehow. Don't forget, I am
talking about a small tank, about 10 gallons or so. I have to do it
often. That's why I also recommended two people.

If it were the old time stainless steel tanks, I would absolutely
NOT move it with water in it. Why, we even hesitated to move the old
tanks when they were dry! Those tanks did not use the pliable
silicone they use today. It was some kind of pasty "cement" --for
lack of a better word-- (maybe some of the older aquarists can help me
out. I thought we called it cement. (?) )-- and it cracked with the
slightest twist. Then, of course, you had a leak to contend with.

joe t
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jett07002
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:58 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon
> freshwater tank in the house
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@> wrote:
> >
> > How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be
> > move with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I
> > wont be able to read the response until I get home from work.
> >
>
> If it's about 10 gallons, you can take some water out of it so
> it doesn't spill over too much and you could probably pick it up. Two
> people to hold a side apiece is better. Full tank could weigh about
> 80 pounds, theoretically, but if you take out about half the water it
> shouldn't be too bad. Catch the water in a clean pail and you can pur
> it back in after you move it.
>
> If the tank is bigger, you have a problem. If that's the case,
> I would cover it with plastic sheeting --- turn off the air pumps and
> filters ------and be sure to cover them up good, too. You don't want
> any of the insecticide that may get on them to be blown in the water
> when you start them up.
>
> You can leave the tank covered for a little while. It wont hurt
> the fish. I've done it when painting, etc. many times. Oh, BTW,
> don't turn the tank lights on either. Might melt the plastic or start
> a fire.
>
> Good luck. You may have to do this a few times. Usually after the
> eggs hatch. Fleas can be a real nuisance.
>
> joe t
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23035 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Hi -

My water is from a municipal but they get it from wells and
reservoirs. Their 2006 Water Quality report listed ph as 6.5 -
8.5. How's that for a range? It's at www.lakehaven.org, click on
Water Quality and 2006 Annual Report, table at the bottom.

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water?
If it
> is municipal, you can get their test results either from their web
site,
> or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH
will be
> one of the measurements they give you. If it varies significantly
from
> what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a call
to
> discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is changing
and
> why.
>
> If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>. However,
it
> will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or
24 hour
> period.
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23036 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
Actually, it remained pliable for quite some time, and if the tank had water in it, it would not dry out. It was the drying out that made it a cement that would crack. Page 527 of my nineteenth edition, revised of Innes's "Exotic Aquarium Fishes" has a full page on how to make the old traditional aquarium cement. You will note a main ingredient is linseed oil. As long as the linseed oil lasts, the cement will retain some pliability.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jett07002
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I wouldn't pick up a fish tank with water in it, not more than an
inch of
> water. Can't this cause leaks?
>
>
> I understand your concern, Donna, and if it's an all glass tank it
wont leak unless you really twist it somehow. Don't forget, I am
talking about a small tank, about 10 gallons or so. I have to do it
often. That's why I also recommended two people.

If it were the old time stainless steel tanks, I would absolutely
NOT move it with water in it. Why, we even hesitated to move the old
tanks when they were dry! Those tanks did not use the pliable
silicone they use today. It was some kind of pasty "cement" --for
lack of a better word-- (maybe some of the older aquarists can help me
out. I thought we called it cement. (?) )-- and it cracked with the
slightest twist. Then, of course, you had a leak to contend with.

joe t
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jett07002
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 10:58 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon
> freshwater tank in the house
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "memphisgirl39" <dctn_2005@> wrote:
> >
> > How do you get rid of flees without killing the fish. Can a tank be
> > move with the filter not working for alittle while. How do I do it. I
> > wont be able to read the response until I get home from work.
> >
>
> If it's about 10 gallons, you can take some water out of it so
> it doesn't spill over too much and you could probably pick it up. Two
> people to hold a side apiece is better. Full tank could weigh about
> 80 pounds, theoretically, but if you take out about half the water it
> shouldn't be too bad. Catch the water in a clean pail and you can pur
> it back in after you move it.
>
> If the tank is bigger, you have a problem. If that's the case,
> I would cover it with plastic sheeting --- turn off the air pumps and
> filters ------and be sure to cover them up good, too. You don't want
> any of the insecticide that may get on them to be blown in the water
> when you start them up.
>
> You can leave the tank covered for a little while. It wont hurt
> the fish. I've done it when painting, etc. many times. Oh, BTW,
> don't turn the tank lights on either. Might melt the plastic or start
> a fire.
>
> Good luck. You may have to do this a few times. Usually after the
> eggs hatch. Fleas can be a real nuisance.
>
> joe t
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23037 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
It looks like you should be getting a pH of around 8.0 out of your tap. You had earlier mentioned 6.2. Has that figure changed since you got the test kit? If it is, I might want to initiate a discussion with the water people, as they may also be interested, since such a low pH will do damage, over time, to their pipes. The water people are adding substances to the water to raise the pH and help protect their pipes.

[FWIW, it is a lot easier to raise pH than to lower it. When lowering the pH, you will end up fighting what is known as buffering capacity of the water, and once you break the buffer, you can face all sorts of problems, the worst being a precipitous pH drop.]

Do I remember correctly, sine there is no real history with this message, that your pH, after the water has sat out for a period, stabilizes at around 7.5, or did you get a higher reading with the high range pH kit? If the water stabilizes at a level lower than that of your tank, then we have something in there that is causing a rise, whether it be an ornament (shale does nothing to pH), or something else in the tank. The propensity for pH in a functioning tank is to drop due to the biological processes that are occurring. This happens over a period of time, and regular water changes mitigates the change to a certain extent.

I think once we get this pH puzzle worked out, you should be OK. I do suggest that you look to maintain fish that are comfortable in a higher pH.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning

Hi -

My water is from a municipal but they get it from wells and
reservoirs. Their 2006 Water Quality report listed ph as 6.5 -
8.5. How's that for a range? It's at www.lakehaven.org, click on
Water Quality and 2006 Annual Report, table at the bottom.

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water?
If it
> is municipal, you can get their test results either from their web
site,
> or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH
will be
> one of the measurements they give you. If it varies significantly
from
> what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a call
to
> discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is changing
and
> why.
>
> If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>. However,
it
> will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or
24 hour
> period.
>
>
> \\Steve//




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23038 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Hi -

The first test kit reading I did on the tap after 10 minutes of
sitting looked to be 6.4 almost 6.6 But we tested again this
morning after it sitting 5 minutes and my husband said it looked 7.0
to him and he's much better at distinguising colors than I am.

I removed one ornament from the tank and it went from 8.4 last night
to 7.8 this morning.

Water that was straight from the tap and sat overnight was 7.8.
Water that sat overnight from the tap with gravel in the bowl was
7.8.

I put the ornament in a pitcher with water this morning and will
test it tonight and see if that isn't my culprit.

I'll also test all the bowls and tank again tonight. Looks like I
might have a 7.8 ph but it starts out at 7.0? Is that too huge a
jump to put the python directly into the tank for water changes?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> It looks like you should be getting a pH of around 8.0 out of your
tap. You had earlier mentioned 6.2. Has that figure changed since
you got the test kit? If it is, I might want to initiate a
discussion with the water people, as they may also be interested,
since such a low pH will do damage, over time, to their pipes. The
water people are adding substances to the water to raise the pH and
help protect their pipes.
>
> [FWIW, it is a lot easier to raise pH than to lower it. When
lowering the pH, you will end up fighting what is known as buffering
capacity of the water, and once you break the buffer, you can face
all sorts of problems, the worst being a precipitous pH drop.]
>
> Do I remember correctly, sine there is no real history with this
message, that your pH, after the water has sat out for a period,
stabilizes at around 7.5, or did you get a higher reading with the
high range pH kit? If the water stabilizes at a level lower than
that of your tank, then we have something in there that is causing a
rise, whether it be an ornament (shale does nothing to pH), or
something else in the tank. The propensity for pH in a functioning
tank is to drop due to the biological processes that are occurring.
This happens over a period of time, and regular water changes
mitigates the change to a certain extent.
>
> I think once we get this pH puzzle worked out, you should be OK. I
do suggest that you look to maintain fish that are comfortable in a
higher pH.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning
>
> Hi -
>
> My water is from a municipal but they get it from wells and
> reservoirs. Their 2006 Water Quality report listed ph as 6.5 -
> 8.5. How's that for a range? It's at www.lakehaven.org, click on
> Water Quality and 2006 Annual Report, table at the bottom.
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water?
> If it
> > is municipal, you can get their test results either from their
web
> site,
> > or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH
> will be
> > one of the measurements they give you. If it varies
significantly
> from
> > what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a
call
> to
> > discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is
changing
> and
> > why.
> >
> > If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>.
However,
> it
> > will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or
> 24 hour
> > period.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23039 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Looks like the ornament was the problem in the tank. Maybe you could set it beside the tank for decoration for your husband?

If you have the 40+ gallon tank, you should be OK if you keep the water changes to about 10% once or twice a week. The pH of the tank will not drop that much to be harmful to the fish. If you are planning on doing larger water changes, then you will need to forgo the Python and leave the water our at least over night before adding it to the tank. Well, actually, you can use the Python to siphon out, but you'll need to add the water manually.

I'd open a dialog with the water people about the pH you are seeing. That is really a big jump in pH ever about 12 hours.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 5:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning

Hi -

The first test kit reading I did on the tap after 10 minutes of
sitting looked to be 6.4 almost 6.6 But we tested again this
morning after it sitting 5 minutes and my husband said it looked 7.0
to him and he's much better at distinguising colors than I am.

I removed one ornament from the tank and it went from 8.4 last night
to 7.8 this morning.

Water that was straight from the tap and sat overnight was 7.8.
Water that sat overnight from the tap with gravel in the bowl was
7.8.

I put the ornament in a pitcher with water this morning and will
test it tonight and see if that isn't my culprit.

I'll also test all the bowls and tank again tonight. Looks like I
might have a 7.8 ph but it starts out at 7.0? Is that too huge a
jump to put the python directly into the tank for water changes?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> It looks like you should be getting a pH of around 8.0 out of your
tap. You had earlier mentioned 6.2. Has that figure changed since
you got the test kit? If it is, I might want to initiate a
discussion with the water people, as they may also be interested,
since such a low pH will do damage, over time, to their pipes. The
water people are adding substances to the water to raise the pH and
help protect their pipes.
>
> [FWIW, it is a lot easier to raise pH than to lower it. When
lowering the pH, you will end up fighting what is known as buffering
capacity of the water, and once you break the buffer, you can face
all sorts of problems, the worst being a precipitous pH drop.]
>
> Do I remember correctly, sine there is no real history with this
message, that your pH, after the water has sat out for a period,
stabilizes at around 7.5, or did you get a higher reading with the
high range pH kit? If the water stabilizes at a level lower than
that of your tank, then we have something in there that is causing a
rise, whether it be an ornament (shale does nothing to pH), or
something else in the tank. The propensity for pH in a functioning
tank is to drop due to the biological processes that are occurring.
This happens over a period of time, and regular water changes
mitigates the change to a certain extent.
>
> I think once we get this pH puzzle worked out, you should be OK. I
do suggest that you look to maintain fish that are comfortable in a
higher pH.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning
>
> Hi -
>
> My water is from a municipal but they get it from wells and
> reservoirs. Their 2006 Water Quality report listed ph as 6.5 -
> 8.5. How's that for a range? It's at www.lakehaven.org, click on
> Water Quality and 2006 Annual Report, table at the bottom.
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water?
> If it
> > is municipal, you can get their test results either from their
web
> site,
> > or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH
> will be
> > one of the measurements they give you. If it varies
significantly
> from
> > what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a
call
> to
> > discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is
changing
> and
> > why.
> >
> > If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>.
However,
> it
> > will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or
> 24 hour
> > period.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23040 From: Paul H Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Well Its starting to sound better for you Tracy. You Ph seems to be going
back to average levels although your source water seems very soft.

For my planted tanks that would be good.



If it was me I would, actually I do, heat my water in large 20 to 30 gallon
utility pails that you can get from Wal-Mart or similar stores for about $20
each. Wal-Mart has cheep aquarium heaters I use as well to heat the
replacement water within 2-3 degrees as the tank water. It is still a big
PH difference and you would have to do more and smaller changes in my
opinion. I personally wouldn’t use a python for under 180g tanks even
though I do weekly partial water changes.





From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: June 16, 2007 3:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning



Hi -

The first test kit reading I did on the tap after 10 minutes of
sitting looked to be 6.4 almost 6.6 But we tested again this
morning after it sitting 5 minutes and my husband said it looked 7.0
to him and he's much better at distinguising colors than I am.

I removed one ornament from the tank and it went from 8.4 last night
to 7.8 this morning.

Water that was straight from the tap and sat overnight was 7.8.
Water that sat overnight from the tap with gravel in the bowl was
7.8.

I put the ornament in a pitcher with water this morning and will
test it tonight and see if that isn't my culprit.

I'll also test all the bowls and tank again tonight. Looks like I
might have a 7.8 ph but it starts out at 7.0? Is that too huge a
jump to put the python directly into the tank for water changes?

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> It looks like you should be getting a pH of around 8.0 out of your
tap. You had earlier mentioned 6.2. Has that figure changed since
you got the test kit? If it is, I might want to initiate a
discussion with the water people, as they may also be interested,
since such a low pH will do damage, over time, to their pipes. The
water people are adding substances to the water to raise the pH and
help protect their pipes.
>
> [FWIW, it is a lot easier to raise pH than to lower it. When
lowering the pH, you will end up fighting what is known as buffering
capacity of the water, and once you break the buffer, you can face
all sorts of problems, the worst being a precipitous pH drop.]
>
> Do I remember correctly, sine there is no real history with this
message, that your pH, after the water has sat out for a period,
stabilizes at around 7.5, or did you get a higher reading with the
high range pH kit? If the water stabilizes at a level lower than
that of your tank, then we have something in there that is causing a
rise, whether it be an ornament (shale does nothing to pH), or
something else in the tank. The propensity for pH in a functioning
tank is to drop due to the biological processes that are occurring.
This happens over a period of time, and regular water changes
mitigates the change to a certain extent.
>
> I think once we get this pH puzzle worked out, you should be OK. I
do suggest that you look to maintain fish that are comfortable in a
higher pH.
>
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 12:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning
>
> Hi -
>
> My water is from a municipal but they get it from wells and
> reservoirs. Their 2006 Water Quality report listed ph as 6.5 -
> 8.5. How's that for a range? It's at www.lakehaven.org, click on
> Water Quality and 2006 Annual Report, table at the bottom.
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Steve Szabo" <steve@> wrote:
> >
> > Is your tap water from a municipal source, or is it well water?
> If it
> > is municipal, you can get their test results either from their
web
> site,
> > or by calling them directly and having them send you a copy. pH
> will be
> > one of the measurements they give you. If it varies
significantly
> from
> > what you are getting out of your tap, then it may be worth a
call
> to
> > discuss the issue with them to determine where the pH is
changing
> and
> > why.
> >
> > If it is well water, you are pretty much on your own <g>.
However,
> it
> > will then be a lot easier to explain the rise in pH over a 12 or
> 24 hour
> > period.
> >
> >
> > \\Steve//
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23041 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high levels of
CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over time. While
this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's since doing any
more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with each PWC.

You should double check the test results of your tank at this point just to
be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the nitrate test
solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've read there
can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test solutions while
they sit on the shelves.

I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have ornaments
that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have change very
much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a bad source
and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you see any
deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any way?

I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the cold water
for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and then 48 hours
and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid 6's up to
7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what your baseline
will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH could change
so you should perform these baseline tests every few months until you "know"
what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's not just pH
that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could also change
with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural areas see
their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the farming
season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source water. This can
also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.

I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the ammonia levels in
Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank with fish but
the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to 3ppm of
ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at 0.25ppm,
depending on the water temperature. I have never done the research on the
ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an ounce of
Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other so-called
bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain ammonia...
and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles are sitting
on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia since the
bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration process... but it
could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is out of
refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have something to
eat to stay alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23042 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
This range is likely due to the fact that they may not have control over the
well's or reservoir's CO2 levels and the water parameters from nitrogenous
waste levels and hardness levels can change from season to season which is
what triggers fish spawning in the wild.

The key is that you now know what you are faced with so you will have to
stick with 10% PWC's right out the tap or if you have a way to "age" larger
volumes of water, you can fill a container and let it sit for 24-48 hours so
that the pH stabilizes before doing a larger PWC. Or once you know that pH
cycle in your area (what times of the years it's high and what times it's
low), you will know when you can do larger changes out the tap and when you
have to limit the percentages.

Remember that you don't want to change the pH by more than 0.1 or your
temperature by more than 1F, at any one time so if your tank pH is 7.8 and
you are doing a 25% PWC, you could use water with a pH range of 7.4 to 8.2.
Some people say that fish can tolerate up to a 0.2 pH change so that would
give you a range of 7.0 to 8.6 but I would only do larger PWC's with water
that closely mirrors my current tank parameters... especially for things
like pH and temperature as we know that abrupt changes in pH and temperature
can and will cause stress issues to fish... and stress issues usually lead
to immune system issues and health issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23043 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/16/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Hi -

Ph from the tap is still testing 7.0 after running for a couple
minutes and then drawing sample from bowl.

Tank and water that I drew yesterday night and put in a bowl are
still reading 7.8 (even the one with gravel)

Bowl with ornament has been soaking 12 hours and reads 7.2.

I did e-mail the people at Marineland but they aren't back until
Monday. I'll hold off on the Bio-spira until I hear from them.
It's just in the fridge.

In the meantime I'll just keep taking water readings.

I've been looking at different fish that will tolerate up to an
8.0ph. The catfish I was looking at does so I'm happy about that -
"upside down catfish", syndontis something on fishbase.org

I'm going to wait at least another week, barring any other fish
deaths, before I start to put in another fish though.

Thank you all for the help! I'm hoping everything steadies up now!

Tracy





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high
levels of
> CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over
time. While
> this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's since
doing any
> more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with
each PWC.
>
> You should double check the test results of your tank at this
point just to
> be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the nitrate
test
> solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've
read there
> can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test
solutions while
> they sit on the shelves.
>
> I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have
ornaments
> that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have
change very
> much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a bad
source
> and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you
see any
> deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any way?
>
> I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the
cold water
> for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and
then 48 hours
> and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid
6's up to
> 7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what your
baseline
> will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH
could change
> so you should perform these baseline tests every few months until
you "know"
> what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's not
just pH
> that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could also
change
> with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural
areas see
> their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the
farming
> season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source water.
This can
> also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.
>
> I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the ammonia
levels in
> Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank with
fish but
> the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to
3ppm of
> ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at 0.25ppm,
> depending on the water temperature. I have never done the
research on the
> ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an
ounce of
> Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other so-
called
> bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain
ammonia...
> and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles are
sitting
> on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia
since the
> bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration process...
but it
> could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is out
of
> refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have
something to
> eat to stay alive.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23044 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/17/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
OK. Just to recap.

Right out the tap without running it a couple of minutes, it was testing in
the mid 6's.. right? But running it a couple of minutes and then testing it
and it comes out at 7.0? Then sitting out for 48 hours and it goes up to
7.8?

That is something you should bring to the attention of your utility people.
I read your water quality report
http://www.lakehaven.org/docs/2006_Water_Quality_Report.pdf and although, on
the bottom of page 4, they put the range at 6.5 - 8.5, that is the allowable
range per the EPA, the range they actually tested was only 7.0 - 8.1 which
is still a broad range but not a full 2.0 pH range.

I also read that they treat the tap water with Sodium Hydroxide which is a
base/alkaline compound (high pH) as a buffer to keep the pH at 7.0 or higher
so it does not cause corrosion to the pipes. Since yours is coming out at
6.5, there may be something leeching into the pipes in close proximity to
your home that is lowering the pH in your area. This could cause corrosion
problems over time so let the utility know what you found.

Another thing to ask them is if they use Chlorine or Chloramine. The Test
Results list Chlorine but if you read my blog,
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-information.html,
you will see that my utility admits that they use chloramine but the EPA
only requires them to post the chlorine levels so nothing in the water
quality report mentions chlorine. This is important for certain dechlor
products that use a different dosage for chlorine and chloramine. Also,
when cycling with fish, chloramine treated water will have a residual
ammonia level (mine has 0.5ppm) after breaking down the chloramine. In a
fully cycled tank, this small amount of ammonia (only 0.125ppm with a 25%
PWC) will be utilized by the nitrifying bacteria as food.

Copy/Paste the reply you get from Marineland.com about the ammonia levels in
Bio-Spira when adding to an uncycled new tank with fish. I'd like to have
that info for future use.

Besides Fishbase.org, also use http://fish.mongabay.com to check out your
proposed fish as all of mongabay's profiles start with the information on
Fishbase.org and then expound on that information to give you much more user
friendly info than Fishbase.org profile.

The bowl with the ornament has gone up a little so it could be that ornament
but I'm still not convinced of that. If you were able to add agitation to
the equation, it might go up even more, but it still might not be the
ornament. Stir the water every once in a while and give it a week of
sitting in there and test it daily to see if you continue to see it rise.
You should probably do a side by side test of a regular bowl of water (no
ornament) to see what happens.. or maybe you already have this with your
baseline testing. The other thing that could be happening, where it isn't
the ornament, is that your tap should be 7.8, but whatever the acidic
compound is that is causing your pH to plummet at the tap, eventually is
overcome by the waters buffering capability so the pH keeps slowly rising
until it gets back up to 7.8.

Keep us posted. I bet you didn't know you'd be going back to that high
school chemistry that people told you would never be used in real life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning

Hi -

Ph from the tap is still testing 7.0 after running for a couple minutes and
then drawing sample from bowl.

Tank and water that I drew yesterday night and put in a bowl are still
reading 7.8 (even the one with gravel)

Bowl with ornament has been soaking 12 hours and reads 7.2.

I did e-mail the people at Marineland but they aren't back until Monday.
I'll hold off on the Bio-spira until I hear from them.
It's just in the fridge.

In the meantime I'll just keep taking water readings.

I've been looking at different fish that will tolerate up to an 8.0ph. The
catfish I was looking at does so I'm happy about that - "upside down
catfish", syndontis something on fishbase.org

I'm going to wait at least another week, barring any other fish deaths,
before I start to put in another fish though.

Thank you all for the help! I'm hoping everything steadies up now!

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high
levels of
> CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over
time. While
> this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's since
doing any
> more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with
each PWC.
>
> You should double check the test results of your tank at this
point just to
> be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the nitrate
test
> solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've
read there
> can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test
solutions while
> they sit on the shelves.
>
> I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have
ornaments
> that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have
change very
> much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a bad
source
> and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you
see any
> deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any way?
>
> I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the
cold water
> for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and
then 48 hours
> and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid
6's up to
> 7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what your
baseline
> will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH
could change
> so you should perform these baseline tests every few months until
you "know"
> what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's not
just pH
> that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could also
change
> with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural
areas see
> their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the
farming
> season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source water.
This can
> also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.
>
> I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the ammonia
levels in
> Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank with
fish but
> the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to
3ppm of
> ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at 0.25ppm,
> depending on the water temperature. I have never done the
research on the
> ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an
ounce of
> Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other so-
called
> bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain
ammonia...
> and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles are
sitting
> on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia
since the
> bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration process...
but it
> could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is out
of
> refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have
something to
> eat to stay alive.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/851 - Release Date: 6/16/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23045 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 6/17/2007
Subject: Discus issues
I just set up a 6 gal Eclipse (getting back into fish after the move...FINALLY) and a friend unloaded a little 2" discus on me. He was being picked on by others and was black with stress. So he's in my newly set up heavily planted Eclipse.

1. When I feed him even the tiniest amount of food, he doesn't get it all and it hits the bottom where he can't get through the plants to eat it, so it stays in the tank which I do NOT want. How can I feed him without this happening?

2. I put some filter media from a friends tank into my filter area, used some water from the same tank but my Eclipse is reading ammonia each day. I change the water with RO water about 25% each time it reads ammonia (which it's been reading at .25 and no more each time.) But MUST I go through an ammonia spike if I have used filter media in my tank?

TY
Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23046 From: Bethany Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
The 2 older ones ( male and female) are in a 10 gallon tank, the
little one is in a gallon tank by himself.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:
>
> Your welcome what size tank are they in?
>
> Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote: THANKS that was very helpful.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@> wrote:
> >
> > My suggestion is to get them some Anacharis which if you don't know
> is a cheap water plant that they will love to eat red leaf lettuce and
> other vegvies like cucumber and zucchini
> > light wise all depends on what you are talking about you can get
> the sunning lamps and leave it on for at least 10 hours a day or like
> others have suggested the natural light is always good
> >
> > Bethany <swtsssysxy@> wrote:
> > We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in
> one tank and
> > a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and
> > plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure
> > they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Got a little couch potato?
> > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23047 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: bombing for flees with a 10 gallon freshwater tank in the house
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> I wouldn't pick up a fish tank with water in it, not more than an
inch of
> water. Can't this cause leaks?



Yes. Also, think about it. Most 10 gallon tanks, with decorations
and fish and all, weight about 100 lbs. If you are only taking half
of the water out, and carrying it without any support underneath it,
you are putting about 50 lbs of weight on a single sheet of glass.
It is only attached to the sides by a silicone or acrylic gel type
glue substance. If you want to move it with any water in it, you
should have it on a smooth, level, and relatively thick board that
covers the ENTIRE bottom. I would never move my tank with stuff in
it without that support.

Karen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23048 From: friendtoallfish Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: angelfish
I have placed my angelfish in my 55 gallon planted tank. The fish in
there are 1- blue gourami, 1 gold gourami, 4 mollies, 3 platties, 7
neon tetras( I know this could become a problem later on), 3 cory
cats, and a red tail balck shark. Are these fish compatable with my
angelfish for the most part? Thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
I've seen many water company reports that mention, in the text, that
chloramines is being used, but, just because there is no mention does
not mean it is not being used. In my area, the use of chloramines has
been announced in the papers, and now, all suppliers in the deck area
are using chloramines. They also have a tendency to announce changes to
the water that may affect fish. Some times, they are even mentioned on
the TV news and DC news, but I suspect that is more a result of a slow
news day than any public spirited reporting.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 1:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning

OK. Just to recap.

Right out the tap without running it a couple of minutes, it was testing
in
the mid 6's.. right? But running it a couple of minutes and then
testing it
and it comes out at 7.0? Then sitting out for 48 hours and it goes up
to
7.8?

That is something you should bring to the attention of your utility
people.
I read your water quality report
http://www.lakehaven.org/docs/2006_Water_Quality_Report.pdf and
although, on
the bottom of page 4, they put the range at 6.5 - 8.5, that is the
allowable
range per the EPA, the range they actually tested was only 7.0 - 8.1
which
is still a broad range but not a full 2.0 pH range.

I also read that they treat the tap water with Sodium Hydroxide which is
a
base/alkaline compound (high pH) as a buffer to keep the pH at 7.0 or
higher
so it does not cause corrosion to the pipes. Since yours is coming out
at
6.5, there may be something leeching into the pipes in close proximity
to
your home that is lowering the pH in your area. This could cause
corrosion
problems over time so let the utility know what you found.

Another thing to ask them is if they use Chlorine or Chloramine. The
Test
Results list Chlorine but if you read my blog,
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-information.ht
ml,
you will see that my utility admits that they use chloramine but the EPA
only requires them to post the chlorine levels so nothing in the water
quality report mentions chlorine. This is important for certain dechlor
products that use a different dosage for chlorine and chloramine. Also,
when cycling with fish, chloramine treated water will have a residual
ammonia level (mine has 0.5ppm) after breaking down the chloramine. In
a
fully cycled tank, this small amount of ammonia (only 0.125ppm with a
25%
PWC) will be utilized by the nitrifying bacteria as food.

Copy/Paste the reply you get from Marineland.com about the ammonia
levels in
Bio-Spira when adding to an uncycled new tank with fish. I'd like to
have
that info for future use.

Besides Fishbase.org, also use http://fish.mongabay.com to check out
your
proposed fish as all of mongabay's profiles start with the information
on
Fishbase.org and then expound on that information to give you much more
user
friendly info than Fishbase.org profile.

The bowl with the ornament has gone up a little so it could be that
ornament
but I'm still not convinced of that. If you were able to add agitation
to
the equation, it might go up even more, but it still might not be the
ornament. Stir the water every once in a while and give it a week of
sitting in there and test it daily to see if you continue to see it
rise.
You should probably do a side by side test of a regular bowl of water
(no
ornament) to see what happens.. or maybe you already have this with your
baseline testing. The other thing that could be happening, where it
isn't
the ornament, is that your tap should be 7.8, but whatever the acidic
compound is that is causing your pH to plummet at the tap, eventually is
overcome by the waters buffering capability so the pH keeps slowly
rising
until it gets back up to 7.8.

Keep us posted. I bet you didn't know you'd be going back to that high
school chemistry that people told you would never be used in real life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning

Hi -

Ph from the tap is still testing 7.0 after running for a couple minutes
and
then drawing sample from bowl.

Tank and water that I drew yesterday night and put in a bowl are still
reading 7.8 (even the one with gravel)

Bowl with ornament has been soaking 12 hours and reads 7.2.

I did e-mail the people at Marineland but they aren't back until Monday.
I'll hold off on the Bio-spira until I hear from them.
It's just in the fridge.

In the meantime I'll just keep taking water readings.

I've been looking at different fish that will tolerate up to an 8.0ph.
The
catfish I was looking at does so I'm happy about that - "upside down
catfish", syndontis something on fishbase.org

I'm going to wait at least another week, barring any other fish deaths,
before I start to put in another fish though.

Thank you all for the help! I'm hoping everything steadies up now!

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high
levels of
> CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over
time. While
> this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's since
doing any
> more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with
each PWC.
>
> You should double check the test results of your tank at this
point just to
> be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the nitrate
test
> solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've
read there
> can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test
solutions while
> they sit on the shelves.
>
> I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have
ornaments
> that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have
change very
> much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a bad
source
> and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you
see any
> deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any way?
>
> I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the
cold water
> for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and
then 48 hours
> and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid
6's up to
> 7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what your
baseline
> will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH
could change
> so you should perform these baseline tests every few months until
you "know"
> what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's not
just pH
> that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could also
change
> with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural
areas see
> their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the
farming
> season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source water.
This can
> also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.
>
> I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the ammonia
levels in
> Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank with
fish but
> the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to
3ppm of
> ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at 0.25ppm,
> depending on the water temperature. I have never done the
research on the
> ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an
ounce of
> Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other so-
called
> bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain
ammonia...
> and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles are
sitting
> on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia
since the
> bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration process...
but it
> could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is out
of
> refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have
something to
> eat to stay alive.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues
With a heavily planted tank and a single small fish, you should not be
getting any ammonia reading. Get a separate test of your tank water from
another test kit or your LFS. What brand and kind of test kit are you
using?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie Lynn M.
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 5:42 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Discus issues

I just set up a 6 gal Eclipse (getting back into fish after the
move...FINALLY) and a friend unloaded a little 2" discus on me. He was being
picked on by others and was black with stress. So he's in my newly set up
heavily planted Eclipse.

1. When I feed him even the tiniest amount of food, he doesn't get it all
and it hits the bottom where he can't get through the plants to eat it, so
it stays in the tank which I do NOT want. How can I feed him without this
happening?

2. I put some filter media from a friends tank into my filter area, used
some water from the same tank but my Eclipse is reading ammonia each day. I
change the water with RO water about 25% each time it reads ammonia (which
it's been reading at .25 and no more each time.) But MUST I go through an
ammonia spike if I have used filter media in my tank?

TY
Leslie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/851 - Release Date: 6/16/2007
12:50 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23051 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Hi -

I'll keep you all posted. Need to test the water straight from the
tap again and have my husband verify what I'm seeing as well. The
tank and water that has been sitting in the bowls are all looking
like 8.0 but just barely. Really hard to tell if it's 7.8 or 8.0 so
maybe 7.9? This would match with what Steve was saying my utility
water report would make it 8.0.

I could talk to my utility about the water but since I worked for my
city in the public works department for a year and a half I've had
dealings with the water department before. Not very cooperative or
friendly for that matter. They'll most likely just say oh ok to
appease me and then go about their merry way. :o)

As far as high school chemistry - I never took it so I'm completely
in the dark! LOL! I was in the business side of school.

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. Just to recap.
>
> Right out the tap without running it a couple of minutes, it was
testing in
> the mid 6's.. right? But running it a couple of minutes and then
testing it
> and it comes out at 7.0? Then sitting out for 48 hours and it goes
up to
> 7.8?
>
> That is something you should bring to the attention of your utility
people.
> I read your water quality report
> http://www.lakehaven.org/docs/2006_Water_Quality_Report.pdf and
although, on
> the bottom of page 4, they put the range at 6.5 - 8.5, that is the
allowable
> range per the EPA, the range they actually tested was only 7.0 -
8.1 which
> is still a broad range but not a full 2.0 pH range.
>
> I also read that they treat the tap water with Sodium Hydroxide
which is a
> base/alkaline compound (high pH) as a buffer to keep the pH at 7.0
or higher
> so it does not cause corrosion to the pipes. Since yours is coming
out at
> 6.5, there may be something leeching into the pipes in close
proximity to
> your home that is lowering the pH in your area. This could cause
corrosion
> problems over time so let the utility know what you found.
>
> Another thing to ask them is if they use Chlorine or Chloramine.
The Test
> Results list Chlorine but if you read my blog,
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-
information.html,
> you will see that my utility admits that they use chloramine but
the EPA
> only requires them to post the chlorine levels so nothing in the
water
> quality report mentions chlorine. This is important for certain
dechlor
> products that use a different dosage for chlorine and chloramine.
Also,
> when cycling with fish, chloramine treated water will have a
residual
> ammonia level (mine has 0.5ppm) after breaking down the
chloramine. In a
> fully cycled tank, this small amount of ammonia (only 0.125ppm with
a 25%
> PWC) will be utilized by the nitrifying bacteria as food.
>
> Copy/Paste the reply you get from Marineland.com about the ammonia
levels in
> Bio-Spira when adding to an uncycled new tank with fish. I'd like
to have
> that info for future use.
>
> Besides Fishbase.org, also use http://fish.mongabay.com to check
out your
> proposed fish as all of mongabay's profiles start with the
information on
> Fishbase.org and then expound on that information to give you much
more user
> friendly info than Fishbase.org profile.
>
> The bowl with the ornament has gone up a little so it could be that
ornament
> but I'm still not convinced of that. If you were able to add
agitation to
> the equation, it might go up even more, but it still might not be
the
> ornament. Stir the water every once in a while and give it a week
of
> sitting in there and test it daily to see if you continue to see it
rise.
> You should probably do a side by side test of a regular bowl of
water (no
> ornament) to see what happens.. or maybe you already have this with
your
> baseline testing. The other thing that could be happening, where
it isn't
> the ornament, is that your tap should be 7.8, but whatever the
acidic
> compound is that is causing your pH to plummet at the tap,
eventually is
> overcome by the waters buffering capability so the pH keeps slowly
rising
> until it gets back up to 7.8.
>
> Keep us posted. I bet you didn't know you'd be going back to that
high
> school chemistry that people told you would never be used in real
life.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:42 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning
>
> Hi -
>
> Ph from the tap is still testing 7.0 after running for a couple
minutes and
> then drawing sample from bowl.
>
> Tank and water that I drew yesterday night and put in a bowl are
still
> reading 7.8 (even the one with gravel)
>
> Bowl with ornament has been soaking 12 hours and reads 7.2.
>
> I did e-mail the people at Marineland but they aren't back until
Monday.
> I'll hold off on the Bio-spira until I hear from them.
> It's just in the fridge.
>
> In the meantime I'll just keep taking water readings.
>
> I've been looking at different fish that will tolerate up to an
8.0ph. The
> catfish I was looking at does so I'm happy about that - "upside down
> catfish", syndontis something on fishbase.org
>
> I'm going to wait at least another week, barring any other fish
deaths,
> before I start to put in another fish though.
>
> Thank you all for the help! I'm hoping everything steadies up now!
>
> Tracy
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high
> levels of
> > CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over
> time. While
> > this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's since
> doing any
> > more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with
> each PWC.
> >
> > You should double check the test results of your tank at this
> point just to
> > be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the nitrate
> test
> > solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've
> read there
> > can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test
> solutions while
> > they sit on the shelves.
> >
> > I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have
> ornaments
> > that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have
> change very
> > much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a bad
> source
> > and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you
> see any
> > deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any way?
> >
> > I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the
> cold water
> > for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and
> then 48 hours
> > and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid
> 6's up to
> > 7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what your
> baseline
> > will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH
> could change
> > so you should perform these baseline tests every few months until
> you "know"
> > what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's not
> just pH
> > that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could also
> change
> > with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural
> areas see
> > their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the
> farming
> > season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source water.
> This can
> > also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.
> >
> > I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the ammonia
> levels in
> > Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank with
> fish but
> > the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to
> 3ppm of
> > ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at
0.25ppm,
> > depending on the water temperature. I have never done the
> research on the
> > ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an
> ounce of
> > Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other so-
> called
> > bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain
> ammonia...
> > and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles are
> sitting
> > on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia
> since the
> > bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration process...
> but it
> > could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is out
> of
> > refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have
> something to
> > eat to stay alive.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/851 - Release Date:
6/16/2007
> 12:50 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23052 From: Francina Martinez Date: 6/18/2007
Subject: Re: Red Eared Sliders
First off, your tanks are WAY too small for your turtles. How old and how long is their carapace (shell) length. Tank size minimum requirements are usually about 4x as long, 2x as deep and 2x wide as their carapace. Remember they are always growing so bigger is always better. These turtles should reach a length of 10-12 inches in length. Make sure you have a good filter running in the tank as well and you do weekly partial water changes. Turtles are very dirty animals and you need to suck the gunk out on a regular basis.

Feeding. Hatchling and very young turtles need a high protein diet for proper shell development and growing. Keeping feeder fish in the tank for them to snack on as they please as well as feeding them a commercial turtle food (I use Kaytee food, it looks like confetti dots a little. My turtle wouldn't touch the Reptomin Sticks), as well as starting to offer fresh veggies. As they get older their dietary needs change and become more vegetarian. As turtles get older, give more of the vitamin enriched commercial food as well as giving dark green veggies such as broccoli and dark leafy greens such as spinach and red leaf, romaine lettuce are good and vitamin enriched. Iceberg lettuce is basically just water and has no nutritional value and is not recommended for proper growth. Cucumbers and zucchini are also enjoyed by my turtle. Peas are also one of her favorites. She gobbles them up one by one.

Artificial lighting is fine. Make sure you get bulbs that emit UVA and UVB rays and provides warmth. There are flourescent bulbs that emit the UV rays, but they aren't warm enough for basking. Reptisun bulbs are good basking bulbs. Leave it on for about 10 hours a day. Also, make sure they have a dock or dry area to crawl out on and dry out. They must dry their shell out completely so it hardens properly, otherwise they will develop soft shell disease in which their shell gets flaky and fungused and can be fatal.

Also, if you have an open tank like we do, make sure the water level is not so high that they can jump out. I scared my turtle by mistake when she was basking and she jumped out of the tank instead of back into the water where she feels safe. Luckily she wasn't hurt and I just picked her up and put her back in the water.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: swtsssysxy@...: Mon, 18 Jun 2007 13:38:33 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Red Eared Sliders




The 2 older ones ( male and female) are in a 10 gallon tank, thelittle one is in a gallon tank by himself.--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@...> wrote:>> Your welcome what size tank are they in?> > Bethany <swtsssysxy@...> wrote: THANKS that was very helpful.> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Chad Plum <juggernaut121@> wrote:> >> > My suggestion is to get them some Anacharis which if you don't know> is a cheap water plant that they will love to eat red leaf lettuce and> other vegvies like cucumber and zucchini> > light wise all depends on what you are talking about you can get> the sunning lamps and leave it on for at least 10 hours a day or like> others have suggested the natural light is always good> > > > Bethany <swtsssysxy@> wrote:> > We have 3 red eared sliders. An older male and female in> one tank and> > a young one in a tank of his own.What is the best foods, snacks and> > plants to give these turtles to keep them healthy? How do I make sure> > they are getting enough light( sunning time). Thanks> > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------> > Got a little couch potato? > > Check out fun summer activities for kids.> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> >> > > > > > > ---------------------------------> Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23053 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Ph testing this morning
Have you let the water sit for a day and then test it. sometimes the
water companies will put chemicals in the water to make it come out
a high pH (so that is does not corrode the water pipes and cause
leaks). But once it hits the air it may come down. You might have
something going on in you tank that is causing the water to stray at
a high pH and the water out of the tap is also a high pH so you
could have two problems going on at the same time. If after a day of
sitting out in the air the water still has a high pH then you will
know for sure that that the water has a problem. One thing that you
might wish to do is to put some peat moss in your filter to soften
it and lower the pH some.
You might wish to talk to a supervisor from the water company and
let them know that they could save some money by cutting down on the
amount of chemicals that make the water basic.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jamakinmecrazy1"
<jamakinmecrazy1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi -
>
> I'll keep you all posted. Need to test the water straight from
the
> tap again and have my husband verify what I'm seeing as well. The
> tank and water that has been sitting in the bowls are all looking
> like 8.0 but just barely. Really hard to tell if it's 7.8 or 8.0
so
> maybe 7.9? This would match with what Steve was saying my utility
> water report would make it 8.0.
>
> I could talk to my utility about the water but since I worked for
my
> city in the public works department for a year and a half I've had
> dealings with the water department before. Not very cooperative
or
> friendly for that matter. They'll most likely just say oh ok to
> appease me and then go about their merry way. :o)
>
> As far as high school chemistry - I never took it so I'm
completely
> in the dark! LOL! I was in the business side of school.
>
> Tracy
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > OK. Just to recap.
> >
> > Right out the tap without running it a couple of minutes, it was
> testing in
> > the mid 6's.. right? But running it a couple of minutes and
then
> testing it
> > and it comes out at 7.0? Then sitting out for 48 hours and it
goes
> up to
> > 7.8?
> >
> > That is something you should bring to the attention of your
utility
> people.
> > I read your water quality report
> > http://www.lakehaven.org/docs/2006_Water_Quality_Report.pdf and
> although, on
> > the bottom of page 4, they put the range at 6.5 - 8.5, that is
the
> allowable
> > range per the EPA, the range they actually tested was only 7.0 -
> 8.1 which
> > is still a broad range but not a full 2.0 pH range.
> >
> > I also read that they treat the tap water with Sodium Hydroxide
> which is a
> > base/alkaline compound (high pH) as a buffer to keep the pH at
7.0
> or higher
> > so it does not cause corrosion to the pipes. Since yours is
coming
> out at
> > 6.5, there may be something leeching into the pipes in close
> proximity to
> > your home that is lowering the pH in your area. This could
cause
> corrosion
> > problems over time so let the utility know what you found.
> >
> > Another thing to ask them is if they use Chlorine or
Chloramine.
> The Test
> > Results list Chlorine but if you read my blog,
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/chlorine-chloramine-
> information.html,
> > you will see that my utility admits that they use chloramine but
> the EPA
> > only requires them to post the chlorine levels so nothing in the
> water
> > quality report mentions chlorine. This is important for certain
> dechlor
> > products that use a different dosage for chlorine and
chloramine.
> Also,
> > when cycling with fish, chloramine treated water will have a
> residual
> > ammonia level (mine has 0.5ppm) after breaking down the
> chloramine. In a
> > fully cycled tank, this small amount of ammonia (only 0.125ppm
with
> a 25%
> > PWC) will be utilized by the nitrifying bacteria as food.
> >
> > Copy/Paste the reply you get from Marineland.com about the
ammonia
> levels in
> > Bio-Spira when adding to an uncycled new tank with fish. I'd
like
> to have
> > that info for future use.
> >
> > Besides Fishbase.org, also use http://fish.mongabay.com to check
> out your
> > proposed fish as all of mongabay's profiles start with the
> information on
> > Fishbase.org and then expound on that information to give you
much
> more user
> > friendly info than Fishbase.org profile.
> >
> > The bowl with the ornament has gone up a little so it could be
that
> ornament
> > but I'm still not convinced of that. If you were able to add
> agitation to
> > the equation, it might go up even more, but it still might not
be
> the
> > ornament. Stir the water every once in a while and give it a
week
> of
> > sitting in there and test it daily to see if you continue to see
it
> rise.
> > You should probably do a side by side test of a regular bowl of
> water (no
> > ornament) to see what happens.. or maybe you already have this
with
> your
> > baseline testing. The other thing that could be happening,
where
> it isn't
> > the ornament, is that your tap should be 7.8, but whatever the
> acidic
> > compound is that is causing your pH to plummet at the tap,
> eventually is
> > overcome by the waters buffering capability so the pH keeps
slowly
> rising
> > until it gets back up to 7.8.
> >
> > Keep us posted. I bet you didn't know you'd be going back to
that
> high
> > school chemistry that people told you would never be used in
real
> life.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> > Sent: Saturday, June 16, 2007 11:42 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Ph testing this morning
> >
> > Hi -
> >
> > Ph from the tap is still testing 7.0 after running for a couple
> minutes and
> > then drawing sample from bowl.
> >
> > Tank and water that I drew yesterday night and put in a bowl are
> still
> > reading 7.8 (even the one with gravel)
> >
> > Bowl with ornament has been soaking 12 hours and reads 7.2.
> >
> > I did e-mail the people at Marineland but they aren't back until
> Monday.
> > I'll hold off on the Bio-spira until I hear from them.
> > It's just in the fridge.
> >
> > In the meantime I'll just keep taking water readings.
> >
> > I've been looking at different fish that will tolerate up to an
> 8.0ph. The
> > catfish I was looking at does so I'm happy about that - "upside
down
> > catfish", syndontis something on fishbase.org
> >
> > I'm going to wait at least another week, barring any other fish
> deaths,
> > before I start to put in another fish though.
> >
> > Thank you all for the help! I'm hoping everything steadies up
now!
> >
> > Tracy
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK. So it looks like your "low pH tap water" probably has high
> > levels of
> > > CO2 or some other acidic compound in it that gasses out over
> > time. While
> > > this is good, it also means you may be limited to 10% PWC's
since
> > doing any
> > > more than that could cause your pH to plummet in the tank with
> > each PWC.
> > >
> > > You should double check the test results of your tank at this
> > point just to
> > > be sure it was really up to 8.4. Make sure you shake the
nitrate
> > test
> > > solutions well (probably twice as long as they suggest) as I've
> > read there
> > > can be issues with settling of chemicals in many of the test
> > solutions while
> > > they sit on the shelves.
> > >
> > > I'm not sure that little ornament would be the culprit. I have
> > ornaments
> > > that are more than 8 years old and I don't think things have
> > change very
> > > much in the industry. Of course, the ornament could be from a
bad
> > source
> > > and not be an aquarium safe ornament in the first place. Do you
> > see any
> > > deterioration of the ornament... dissolving or failure in any
way?
> > >
> > > I would double check the baseline test at this point. Run the
> > cold water
> > > for a minute or two. Then fill a bowl. Test it. Wait 24 and
> > then 48 hours
> > > and run tests at those intervals also. If it goes from the mid
> > 6's up to
> > > 7.8 again, then you can feel reasonably certain, that is what
your
> > baseline
> > > will be. Remember that come fall or winter, your tap water pH
> > could change
> > > so you should perform these baseline tests every few months
until
> > you "know"
> > > what your tap water does throughout the year. Remember, it's
not
> > just pH
> > > that changes. Your nitrogen levels and hardness levels could
also
> > change
> > > with the seasons. Some folks in farming areas and other rural
> > areas see
> > > their nitrate and phosphate levels rise dramatically during the
> > farming
> > > season due to fertilizer runoff getting into their source
water.
> > This can
> > > also happen in reservoir fed water supplies.
> > >
> > > I wish you would contact Marineland.com and check on the
ammonia
> > levels in
> > > Bio-Spira. I know the product says you can add it to a tank
with
> > fish but
> > > the big difference is your high pH. A pH of 7.0 can have up to
> > 3ppm of
> > > ammonia before it's toxic. At 7.8, it can become toxic at
> 0.25ppm,
> > > depending on the water temperature. I have never done the
> > research on the
> > > ammonia levels in Bio-Spira to know how much ammonia is in an
> > ounce of
> > > Bio-Spira. I have given the smell test to nearly every other
so-
> > called
> > > bacteria-in-a-bottle product out there and none of them contain
> > ammonia...
> > > and ammonia is required to feed the bacteria while the bottles
are
> > sitting
> > > on the shelves. With Bio-Spira, it may not contain any ammonia
> > since the
> > > bacteria are kept in hibernation via the refrigeration
process...
> > but it
> > > could also be in an ammonia solution so that if the product is
out
> > of
> > > refrigeration or when added to an empty tank, the bacteria have
> > something to
> > > eat to stay alive.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> > >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/851 - Release Date:
> 6/16/2007
> > 12:50 PM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23054 From: kira.hayes Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Hello From CT
WELL, I have a ten gallon fresh water fish tank, I bought it a couple
months ago and was a definate NEWBIE and got sort of cheated by th pet
store (no one said ANYTHING about cycleing a tank) so i bought 8 fish
and of course i only have two left. The tank has finally cycled and
all my ph, nitrate ect. is normal, but im afraid to add fish now!!
lol. I have a Long Finned Barb and a Female Betta. Ill Have to pist
some pictures of my fish and the tank...DOES ANYONE have some Advice
as to some low maintance fish that would be a good choice for me to
FINALLY stock my tank with? im only interested in buying a max of six
more fish to add for a total of 8. Thanks!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23055 From: land_shapes Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
Hi
Just thought I'd post an update on my first breeding attempt - I
have 9 survivors which are still very small but actively exploring
the tank and feeding. There is also one single one which is much
larger (two to three times) than the 9 and looks like a 'real fish'
small dorsal fin and tail I am so pleased I persevered.

Also I notice one other 'fish' which always seemed to hug the
bottomn of the tank is very nervous and has what looked like horns.
After a bit of research I'm sure this is a newt and after watching
the tank very closely there are actually three of these. From what I
can gather these are likely to be predatory and should be removed
asap? catching them will be interesting I think.

regards

Bob


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@...> wrote:
>
> Hank
>
> thanks for the info, I took a water sample to a shop and they said
> it was good. I've added a heater to try and keep the temp constant
> as it was fluctuating day by day and was suggested that could
stress
> them.
>
> will put this down to experience and hopefully learn something
from
> it and have better success with next attempt now that I'm more
> prepared.
>
> ...at least we all know what Hydra are now :)
>
>
> regards
>
> Bob
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou
> >
> > Bob:
> > Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you
see
> > there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate
a
> > spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
> > bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
> > easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did
you
> > bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
> > because they starve to death.You have to have the right food for
> them
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23056 From: moondancr Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please
Hi All,

I am wondering if someone might help me with my problem. I received a
10 gallon "top fin" fish tank kit (with over the back "top fin"
filter) for Xmas and I followed the directions for setting it up. In
Feb. I got 3 female youngish red wag platties (one of which was
pregnant and we had a few babies, one of which has survived and is
doing well) and "my 3 girls" got so large and were flourishing for a
few months (so much so that I decided not to get any more fish for
that tank). I have been feeding them top fin flaked food twice a day.
Then I noticed one of my platties got this sunken in stomach but still
had an appetite. She had no other symptoms of illness, no marks on her
body but did swim funny. Well, the sick fish just got sicker and
sicker and while waiting for her to die, one of the other girls died
suddenly, without any symptoms at all and that was about 2 weeks ago.

Since that time the largest girl fish seems to be healthy and also her
tiny baby, except mommy fish hides most of the time because her
friends are gone. The only thing I have changed is feeding them once a
day instead of twice a day.

Here is the water testing results: We live in Tucson, AZ and have very
hard water but platties are supposed to be okay with that. (I hear)

nitrates:
fish tank: 80 (begin of unsafe)........(our tap water 10)

nitrites:
fish tank: .5 (caution)......(our tap water 0)

hardness:
fish tank: 300 (very hard)....(our tap water 300)

chlorine:
fish tank: 0 .....(our tap water 0)

alkalinity:
fish tank 120 (ideal) ....(our tap water 300 very high)

PH:
fish tank: 7.8 (alkaline).....(our tap water 8.4 very high)

I make a 25% water change once a month, along with a new filter.
There are no fresh plants in the tank and the water stays at 76 degrees.

I am wondering when it will be safe to put in some more platties. I
know I will wait until baby is larger as I don't want to take a chance
of anything happening to her. She is having so much fun having this
big tank to live in and not hiding all the time (of which she had to
do for a number of months...lol).

I also have a betta in a 1.7 gallon tank of which I have had for a
year and he seems to be in good health. I am thinking of getting him a
5 gallon tank, with a smalls shoal of little catfish. Does this sound
like a good idea? (or should I just leave him "as is"..lol).

I just loved my 3 girls and it was quite heartbreaking to me. Platties
have so much personality.

thank you,
Carol D. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23057 From: Paul H Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
I’m wondering about your filter replacement and that you have nitrite. You
probably have ammonia as well.



The bacteria that eats or changes ammonia to nitrite and then less harmful
nitrate lives mostly in your filter.

From what you say it seems you may be throwing that away?

All you need to do is gently rinse your filter in the water you remove from
your tank and then put it back.

I think you are making your tank cycle again until the beneficial bacteria
replenish themselves.

Could this be the case?

Everything seems okay. Your tank isn’t overcrowded.

It wouldn’t be bad to up your partial water changes to every two weeks as
well.

It could also be old age but the presence of nitrite has me suspect cycling
issues.



Paul.



PS. I think the Betta would be happier in a 5g but watch out for
overcrowding. Research cycling a new aquarium or new tank syndrome.

I think you might need to understand these important factors of fish keeping
a little better. No offense implied.









From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of moondancr
Sent: June 19, 2007 3:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank problems/need help please



Hi All,

I am wondering if someone might help me with my problem. I received a
10 gallon "top fin" fish tank kit (with over the back "top fin"
filter) for Xmas and I followed the directions for setting it up. In
Feb. I got 3 female youngish red wag platties (one of which was
pregnant and we had a few babies, one of which has survived and is
doing well) and "my 3 girls" got so large and were flourishing for a
few months (so much so that I decided not to get any more fish for
that tank). I have been feeding them top fin flaked food twice a day.
Then I noticed one of my platties got this sunken in stomach but still
had an appetite. She had no other symptoms of illness, no marks on her
body but did swim funny. Well, the sick fish just got sicker and
sicker and while waiting for her to die, one of the other girls died
suddenly, without any symptoms at all and that was about 2 weeks ago.

Since that time the largest girl fish seems to be healthy and also her
tiny baby, except mommy fish hides most of the time because her
friends are gone. The only thing I have changed is feeding them once a
day instead of twice a day.

Here is the water testing results: We live in Tucson, AZ and have very
hard water but platties are supposed to be okay with that. (I hear)

nitrates:
fish tank: 80 (begin of unsafe)........(our tap water 10)

nitrites:
fish tank: .5 (caution)......(our tap water 0)

hardness:
fish tank: 300 (very hard)....(our tap water 300)

chlorine:
fish tank: 0 .....(our tap water 0)

alkalinity:
fish tank 120 (ideal) ....(our tap water 300 very high)

PH:
fish tank: 7.8 (alkaline).....(our tap water 8.4 very high)

I make a 25% water change once a month, along with a new filter.
There are no fresh plants in the tank and the water stays at 76 degrees.

I am wondering when it will be safe to put in some more platties. I
know I will wait until baby is larger as I don't want to take a chance
of anything happening to her. She is having so much fun having this
big tank to live in and not hiding all the time (of which she had to
do for a number of months...lol).

I also have a betta in a 1.7 gallon tank of which I have had for a
year and he seems to be in good health. I am thinking of getting him a
5 gallon tank, with a smalls shoal of little catfish. Does this sound
like a good idea? (or should I just leave him "as is"..lol).

I just loved my 3 girls and it was quite heartbreaking to me. Platties
have so much personality.

thank you,
Carol D. :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23058 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Personally I would try to change the water once a week and add some
live aquatic plants. Maybe you could feed twice a day again but not
more than they will eat in one or two minutes.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "moondancr" <moondancr@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am wondering if someone might help me with my problem. I
received a
> 10 gallon "top fin" fish tank kit (with over the back "top fin"
> filter) for Xmas and I followed the directions for setting it up.
In
> Feb. I got 3 female youngish red wag platties (one of which was
> pregnant and we had a few babies, one of which has survived and is
> doing well) and "my 3 girls" got so large and were flourishing for
a
> few months (so much so that I decided not to get any more fish for
> that tank). I have been feeding them top fin flaked food twice a
day.
> Then I noticed one of my platties got this sunken in stomach but
still
> had an appetite. She had no other symptoms of illness, no marks on
her
> body but did swim funny. Well, the sick fish just got sicker and
> sicker and while waiting for her to die, one of the other girls
died
> suddenly, without any symptoms at all and that was about 2 weeks
ago.
>
> Since that time the largest girl fish seems to be healthy and also
her
> tiny baby, except mommy fish hides most of the time because her
> friends are gone. The only thing I have changed is feeding them
once a
> day instead of twice a day.
>
> Here is the water testing results: We live in Tucson, AZ and have
very
> hard water but platties are supposed to be okay with that. (I hear)
>
> nitrates:
> fish tank: 80 (begin of unsafe)........(our tap water 10)
>
> nitrites:
> fish tank: .5 (caution)......(our tap water 0)
>
> hardness:
> fish tank: 300 (very hard)....(our tap water 300)
>
> chlorine:
> fish tank: 0 .....(our tap water 0)
>
> alkalinity:
> fish tank 120 (ideal) ....(our tap water 300 very high)
>
> PH:
> fish tank: 7.8 (alkaline).....(our tap water 8.4 very high)
>
> I make a 25% water change once a month, along with a new filter.
> There are no fresh plants in the tank and the water stays at 76
degrees.
>
> I am wondering when it will be safe to put in some more platties. I
> know I will wait until baby is larger as I don't want to take a
chance
> of anything happening to her. She is having so much fun having this
> big tank to live in and not hiding all the time (of which she had
to
> do for a number of months...lol).
>
> I also have a betta in a 1.7 gallon tank of which I have had for a
> year and he seems to be in good health. I am thinking of getting
him a
> 5 gallon tank, with a smalls shoal of little catfish. Does this
sound
> like a good idea? (or should I just leave him "as is"..lol).
>
> I just loved my 3 girls and it was quite heartbreaking to me.
Platties
> have so much personality.
>
> thank you,
> Carol D. :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23059 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: angelfish
The neons may be in danger from the angelfish, if they can fit in the
mouth. I would also watch the gouramis behavior toward the angelfish as
well.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] angelfish

I have placed my angelfish in my 55 gallon planted tank. The fish in
there are 1- blue gourami, 1 gold gourami, 4 mollies, 3 platties, 7
neon tetras( I know this could become a problem later on), 3 cory
cats, and a red tail balck shark. Are these fish compatable with my
angelfish for the most part? Thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23060 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: Hello From CT
Here is a 10 Gallon Suggested Stocking List and Compatibility List prepared
by a fish-keeping friend of mine.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

Hope it helps and remember that you may not be able to keep eight fish if
they are not on the very small size.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kira.hayes
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 1:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello From CT

WELL, I have a ten gallon fresh water fish tank, I bought it a couple months
ago and was a definate NEWBIE and got sort of cheated by th pet store (no
one said ANYTHING about cycleing a tank) so i bought 8 fish and of course i
only have two left. The tank has finally cycled and all my ph, nitrate ect.
is normal, but im afraid to add fish now!!
lol. I have a Long Finned Barb and a Female Betta. Ill Have to pist some
pictures of my fish and the tank...DOES ANYONE have some Advice as to some
low maintance fish that would be a good choice for me to FINALLY stock my
tank with? im only interested in buying a max of six more fish to add for a
total of 8. Thanks!!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/853 - Release Date: 6/18/2007
3:02 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23061 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/19/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
I'm going to answer your post paragraph by paragraph since it was a good and
informative but long post. I'm answering in ALL CAPS but it's not
screaming... but so you and others can tell my answer from your paragraph.
If any of the links to my blog articles break up, you can go to my blog in
my sig and find the articles listed on the right side.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of moondancr
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank problems/need help please

Hi All,

I am wondering if someone might help me with my problem. I received a 10
gallon "top fin" fish tank kit (with over the back "top fin"
filter) for Xmas and I followed the directions for setting it up. In Feb. I
got 3 female youngish red wag platties (one of which was pregnant and we had
a few babies, one of which has survived and is doing well) and "my 3 girls"
got so large and were flourishing for a few months (so much so that I
decided not to get any more fish for that tank). I have been feeding them
top fin flaked food twice a day.

HERE IS A 10G STOCKING RECOMMENDATION LIST SO CAN LOOK IT OVER FOR FISH THAT
DO BEST IN 10G (SMALLER TANKS). IT ALSO HAS INFORMATION FOR BETTAS AND
SUITABLE TANK MATES FOR BETTAS SINCE YOU BRING THIS UP LATER.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

DO YOU KNOW ABOUT THE NITROGEN CYCLE NOW? IF NOT, GO TO MY "A TO Z... "
PAGE AT
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml AND TAKE ONE OR BOTH OF THE ONLINE TUTORIALS ABOUT FISHKEEPING YOU WILL
BETTER UNDERSTAND ALL OF THE BIOLOGICAL AND CHEMICAL PROCESSES THAT GO ON IN
OUR FISH TANKS.

Then I noticed one of my platties got this sunken in stomach but still had
an appetite. She had no other symptoms of illness, no marks on her body but
did swim funny. Well, the sick fish just got sicker and sicker and while
waiting for her to die, one of the other girls died suddenly, without any
symptoms at all and that was about 2 weeks ago.

THIS COULD BE A NUMBER OF THINGS BUT THESE ARE SYMPTOMS OF INTERNAL
DIGESTIVE TRACT PARASITES WHICH ARE EATING ALL OF THE FOOD BEFORE THE FISH
CAN ABSORB ANY OF THE NUTRIENTS.

Since that time the largest girl fish seems to be healthy and also her tiny
baby, except mommy fish hides most of the time because her friends are gone.
The only thing I have changed is feeding them once a day instead of twice a
day.

A FISH THAT HIDES IS OFTEN A SICK FISH AND THEY HIDE OUT OF INSTINCT SINCE
IN THE WILD, A SICK FISH OFTEN WILL BE BULLIED BY OTHER FISH OR EATEN BY A
PREDATOR.

Here is the water testing results: We live in Tucson, AZ and have very hard
water but platties are supposed to be okay with that. (I hear)

nitrates:
fish tank: 80 (begin of unsafe)........(our tap water 10)

LATER ON YOU SAY YOU ONLY DO MONTHLY 25% PWC'S WHICH ARE PROBABLY NOT
ENOUGH. YOUR NITRATES SHOULD STAY BELOW 40PPM AND PREFERABLY BELOW 20PPM.
WAS THIS 80PPM LEVEL BEFORE OR AFTER YOU DID YOUR 25% PWC?

nitrites:
fish tank: .5 (caution)......(our tap water 0)

YOU DID NOT LIST AMMONIA BUT SINCE YOU HAVE NITRITES, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE
YOU ALSO HAVE AN AMMONIA LEVEL. DID YOU CHANGE OUT THE FILTER IN THE DAY OR
FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU TESTED THE WATER? READ MY ARTICLE ON FILTER MAINTENANCE
AND CLEANING SO YOU WILL LEARN THAT CHANGING THE FILTER CARTRIDGE EVERY
MONTH IS NOT A GOOD THING TO DO... REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE FILTER COMPANIES
INSTRUCTIONS MIGHT SAY. THEY ARE ONLY TRYING TO SELL YOU MORE FILTERS.
HERE IS MY ARTICLE...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html

hardness:
fish tank: 300 (very hard)....(our tap water 300)

I HAVE NEARLY LIQUID ROCK DOWN HERE IN NEW ORLEANS TOO... NOT QUITE AS HARD
AS YOURS BUT IT GETS CLOSE DURING THE SUMMER TIME.

chlorine:
fish tank: 0 .....(our tap water 0)

THIS TEST ISN'T NORMALLY NEEDED. DO YOU USE A DECHLOR PRODUCT OR TAP WATER
CONDITIONER? IF SO, WHAT IS THE BRAND NAME.

alkalinity:
fish tank 120 (ideal) ....(our tap water 300 very high)

ALKALINITY IS USUALLY THE SAME AS KH (CARBONATE HARDNESS) AND THERE IS NO
REAL "IDEAL" LEVEL AS EACH FISH SPECIES PREFERS DIFFERENT LEVELS. SINCE YOU
HAVE HARD WATER, IT'S BEST IF YOU KEEP FISH THAT LIKE THE SAME KIND OF
WATER. GO TO http://fish.mongabay.com to check out the profiles of any fish
you contemplate keeping so you can look at the water parameters they prefer
and make sure it's the same or similar to yours. HERE IS THE PROFILE ON
YOUR CURRENT FISH... http://fish.mongabay.com/poeciliidae.htm (IT'S
ACTUALLY ON ALL LIVEBEARERS BUT PLATIES ARE LISTED DOWN NEAR THE BOTTOM OF
THE PAGE. READ IT OVER AND ASK ANY QUESTIONS HERE.)

PH:
fish tank: 7.8 (alkaline).....(our tap water 8.4 very high)

THE pH OF A TANK WILL ALMOST ALWAYS GO DOWN BETWEEN PWC'S DUE TO THE
ECOLOGY, BIOLOGY AND CHEMISTRY THAT HAPPENS IN OUR TANKS.

I make a 25% water change once a month, along with a new filter.
There are no fresh plants in the tank and the water stays at 76 degrees.

I ALREADY TOUCHED ON THIS EARLIER. ARE YOU VACUUMING YOUR GRAVEL WITH EACH
PWC? IF YOU ARE, THEN YOU MAY NEED TO INCREASE YOUR PWC'S TO EVERY TWO
WEEKS. AS THE FISH GROW, THEY PUT OUT MORE AND MORE WASTE AND AMMONIA
(URINE/GILL FUNCTION) SO WHAT WORKED FOR THE TANK WHEN THE FISH WERE SMALL
WILL NOT NECESSARILY WORK AS THEY REACH ADULTHOOD. I DO WEEKLY 25% PWC'S ON
ALL OF MY TANKS JUST SO THE FISH CONSTANTLY GET SOME FRESH WATER INTO THE
TANK, OTHERWISE THEY ARE SWIMMING AROUND IN THEIR OWN WASTE FOR A MONTH.

I am wondering when it will be safe to put in some more platties. I know I
will wait until baby is larger as I don't want to take a chance of anything
happening to her. She is having so much fun having this big tank to live in
and not hiding all the time (of which she had to do for a number of
months...lol).

THERE IS A CHANCE THAT YOUR OTHER FISH SUCCUMBED TO ILLNESSES BROUGHT ON BY
STRESS LEVELS CAUSED BY ELEVATED AMMONIA/NITRITE/NITRATE LEVELS THAT
HAPPENED WHEN YOUR TANK WENT THROUGH THE LIKELY MINI-CYCLES EACH TIME YOU
THREW AWAY THE FILTER CARTRIDGE. WHEN FISH GET STRESSED, THEIR IMMUNE
SYSTEM FALTERS AND THEY CAN SUCCUMB TO SICKNESS OR PARASITES THAT THEY WOULD
NORMALLY BE ABLE TO HANDLE WITH A HEALTHY IMMUNE SYSTEM.

I also have a betta in a 1.7 gallon tank of which I have had for a year and
he seems to be in good health. I am thinking of getting him a
5 gallon tank, with a smalls shoal of little catfish. Does this sound like a
good idea? (or should I just leave him "as is"..lol).

THE 5G TANK WOULD BE MUCH BETTER. IS THE 1.7G FILTERED AND HEATED? IF NOT,
MAKE SURE THE 5G IS FILTERED AND HEATED. BETTAS DO BEST IN A CONSISTENT
WATER TEMPERATURE. IN AN UN-HEATED TANK, THE WATER TEMP CAN GO FROM LOW
70'S TO HIGH 70'S EACH DAY AND THIS CAUSES MANY FISH STRESS... WHICH I
TALKED ABOUT IN THE PRECEDING PARAGRAPH.

I just loved my 3 girls and it was quite heartbreaking to me. Platties have
so much personality.

AFTER YOU TAKE THE ONLINE TUTORIAL(S) I SUGGESTED AND READ OVER THE OTHER
LINKS I GAVE YOU, YOU WILL KNOW A LOT MORE ABOUT HOW TO KEEP YOUR FISH FROM
GETTING STRESSED, SICK, ETC., IN THE FUTURE. YOU SHOULD ALSO QUARANTINE NEW
FISH BEFORE ADDING THEM TO YOUR CURRENT TANK(S) SO THEY DON'T BRING IN A NEW
PATHOGEN THAT YOUR FISH HAVE NO IMMUNITY/RESISTANCE TO... OR SO THEY DON'T
GET SICK FROM SOMETHING IN YOUR TANK THAT YOUR FISH HAVE RESISTANCE TO BUT
THE NEW FISH DON'T.

thank you,
Carol D. :)

You're welcome.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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3:02 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23062 From: hank voss Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@...> wrote:
> =====================
Bob:
Congrats. on becoming a father of 9.The one big one probably
got that way by eating some brothers and sisters.In egglayers you
always get a few that outgrow the rest and start munching of their
comrades.
Where did the "newts " come from?Were the eggs collected from a
pond?anyway i would get them out of the tank if want to save any
fry.Now your on your way to becoming a breeder.
Hank

> Hi
> Just thought I'd post an update on my first breeding attempt - I
> have 9 survivors which are still very small but actively exploring
> the tank and feeding. There is also one single one which is much
> larger (two to three times) than the 9 and looks like a 'real fish'
> small dorsal fin and tail I am so pleased I persevered.
>
> Also I notice one other 'fish' which always seemed to hug the
> bottomn of the tank is very nervous and has what looked like horns.
> After a bit of research I'm sure this is a newt and after watching
> the tank very closely there are actually three of these. From what
I
> can gather these are likely to be predatory and should be removed
> asap? catching them will be interesting I think.
>
> regards
>
> Bob
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> >
> > Hank
> >
> > thanks for the info, I took a water sample to a shop and they
said
> > it was good. I've added a heater to try and keep the temp
constant
> > as it was fluctuating day by day and was suggested that could
> stress
> > them.
> >
> > will put this down to experience and hopefully learn something
> from
> > it and have better success with next attempt now that I'm more
> > prepared.
> >
> > ...at least we all know what Hydra are now :)
> >
> >
> > regards
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogrou
> > >
> > > Bob:
> > > Usually when you get hydra in a tank for every 1 that you
> see
> > > there will be at least 50 that you miss.Ive seen them devistate
> a
> > > spawn.They will not only be on the tank sides but
> > > bottom ,plants,everywhere some are so small you can miss them
> > > easily.Did you spawn then in the tank the young are in?or did
> you
> > > bring then in from a pond?Usually when you start losing fry its
> > > because they starve to death.You have to have the right food
for
> > them
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23063 From: Ryan Scott Bardsley Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Panting fish!
Hello,

I am having a problem with my 20G tank. All of my fish seem to be
panting. I am moving, and several things have changed in my tank...
but nothing seems to be that far out of line. I know I should
minimize what I change, but this seemed like routine maintenance.

Water stats:
Temp: 86F (seems high, but it is hot out)
pH: 6.29
ORP: 384
GH: 4ppm
KH: 4ppm
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 0.5ppm (pre-water change and vacuum)
TDS: 330
Cu: 0.2ppm (not sure where this came from)
Phosphates: 1.0ppm (seemed high, added phosphate remover to filter)

In the tank there are:
4 tetras
4 flying foxes
2 CAEs
1 medium pleco
japonica shrimp
2 farowella catfish
1 pictus

The tank has that fancy substrate (underwater potting soil of sorts,
but phosphate free) and is semi-planted. It has an air wand as well.



I am running out of ideas! Is it the heat? Water change? They eat,
but their gills are moving incredibly fast. The pleco comes up to
grab air from the surface all the time too. Help!

Thanks

R
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23064 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Filter Maintenance
Hey all. I just read Lenny's blog on filter maintenance, and it makes
sense for one of my filters, which is the kind that has everything in
one cartridge. thus the "swooshing and squeezing" makes sense to me.
However, on my other 10 gallon, I have a Top Fin filter that has 3
parts to the filtration system. These are a carbon bag, which they say
to rinse out before you put it in and replace once per month. Then
there is a sponge, which they say to change once every 2 months. Then
there is this bag of stuff they call Biomax. it is little-ish white
cylander shaped peices in a loose mesh bag, which they say to change
once every 3 months. They also warn you not to change all three at the
same time. So all of a sudden, the swooshing and squeezing doesn't
make sense any more. Is this a better filter set up, in which you are
never removing all of the bacteria? Or is this advice just as bad as
replacing the entire filter monthly? Thanks in advance.

Karen from NY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23065 From: Judith Downing Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Hi!

If you are worried about overfeeding there is a new food type that
may help. At least it is new to me. It is called TetraMin Tropical
Crisps. The reason it can help is that one crisp is enough food for a
one inch fish. So you can approximate how many to add. The crisps
come in three types, a center for color, growth, & Spirulina, all
surrounded by a ring of essential nutrients. My fish like them & I
like knowing how many to add. There also is a variety called TetraMin
Pro Tropical Crisps, I haven't figured out the difference between the
two.

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23066 From: Dan Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: angelfish
I'm jumping in here to put my very little experience with Angles to help with his conversation.

I bought 2 Angels a couple of months ago and placed them into a 10 gallon. They started getting big, so I ask here if they would servive in a community tank with Columbian Sharks, 4 Corys, Clown, 2 Glass, 8 assorted Painted and oh yeah one Neon(that's a story in itself)

Not knowing, I took some recommendations from here and slowly released them into the 55 gallon. Well it's now going on a weak and everything looks fine. At first the community when to one side and the Angels went to the other, but now their all happy campers.

Before I made the transfer, I slowly switched the water in the 10 with the 55. I think that helped against stress.
One problem I do have is before the transfer I had 3 very very large Plecos. So I went on my local freecycle and gave them away.

That was great,I was able to plant live plants in the 55. If you have Plecos you know their poop wraps around everything and the last time I put live plants in..they pulled them all up.

Okay back to my last problem. I bought a young Pleco along with the Angels and now he/her is alone in the 10. I want to transfer him/her but I don't want my plants pulled up. The only thing I can figure is wait and let the plants root, then put him/her in.

I hope someone has suggestions and can help me sex my Angels.

Thanks
Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:38 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] angelfish


The neons may be in danger from the angelfish, if they can fit in the
mouth. I would also watch the gouramis behavior toward the angelfish as
well.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Monday, June 18, 2007 11:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] angelfish

I have placed my angelfish in my 55 gallon planted tank. The fish in
there are 1- blue gourami, 1 gold gourami, 4 mollies, 3 platties, 7
neon tetras( I know this could become a problem later on), 3 cory
cats, and a red tail balck shark. Are these fish compatable with my
angelfish for the most part? Thank you





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23067 From: land_shapes Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Coldwater goldfish breeding advice - update
Yes the eggs came from the pond, after a spawning frenzy I lifted
some of the blanket weed which was covered in eggs and put it in the
tank - the newts/newt eggs must have been in the weed also. They are
now back in the pond, managed to catch them when I did a partial
water change today.

thanks for your encouragement

Bob

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "land_shapes" <rapt0r@> wrote:
> > =====================
> Bob:
> Congrats. on becoming a father of 9.The one big one probably
> got that way by eating some brothers and sisters.In egglayers you
> always get a few that outgrow the rest and start munching of their
> comrades.
> Where did the "newts " come from?Were the eggs collected
from a pond
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23068 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
I know those containers say that and it may be OK if the 1" fish is a small
neon tetra. A 1" goldfish needs much more food than a 1" neon. I bought
some of that brand for goldfish several years ago when my goldfish were
babies and they looked at me like I was NUTS when I tried to give them each
1-2 crisps at each meal.

It can actually cause stunting to a fishes growth to underfeed them...
especially as babies/juveniles. Most goldfish feeding charts say that
babies/juvies should eat 3% of their body weight each day, divided into
several smaller feedings and from 1% to 3% of body weight as adults
depending on the water temperature (which affects metabolism in goldfish).
I know there are tons of posts and webpages about only feeding once a day or
every other day and while this might work for adult fully grown fish, it
will cause stunting issues in developing fish.

Just like us humans, the babies need to eat every few hours and then as
children, while growing, several healthy meals a day... and then as adults,
much less food or we start to pack on the weight! :-D

I think the once a day feeding or every other day feeding was promulgated as
a way to not have to do weekly or more often than once a month PWC's. I
guess if you don't feed the fish enough, they won't create any waste and
then the "lazy" owner doesn't have to vacuum the gravel, clean the filter or
do PWC's as often. I don't think that's the right way to do things. It
would be like not feeding your dog so you don't have to walk it as much or
let it out in your yard as often. Or not feeding your baby as often so you
don't have to change diapers as often. I'd rather feed mine what they
should get each day and then do my weekly 25% PWC's and tank/filter
maintenance.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Judith Downing
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:16 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:tank problems/need help please/overfeeding

Hi!

If you are worried about overfeeding there is a new food type that may help.
At least it is new to me. It is called TetraMin Tropical Crisps. The reason
it can help is that one crisp is enough food for a one inch fish. So you can
approximate how many to add. The crisps come in three types, a center for
color, growth, & Spirulina, all surrounded by a ring of essential nutrients.
My fish like them & I like knowing how many to add. There also is a variety
called TetraMin Pro Tropical Crisps, I haven't figured out the difference
between the two.

Judy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23069 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Maintenance
I address these types of filters also.. probably when dealing with canisters
but also in the link to my Filter Profile on my Bio-Wheel 200 HOB style
filter system. Since most HOB's have a simple cartridge which the
manufacturer wants you to trash each month, I probably go over them first.

Technically, in your case, all you need to do is trash the carbon filter or
cut open the bag and just trash the carbon granules. I have one of my HOB's
that have a filter frame that slides inside the poly bag (floss type bag)
and the bag can be refilled with carbon as needed also. I quit running
carbon in my tanks many years ago... except for when needed to remove
medicines, treatments, etc.

In your case, you should just squeeze out the sponge a few times in some
removed tank water to remove the detritus. Same with the bag of biomax.
Just swoosh it around in the removed tank water to remove any detritus. By
saving the nitrifying bacteria growing on both of those filter components,
you could add new carbon packs if you choose to buy them or you could add
some other filter media... I would go with a dual layer poly pad. Here is
my blog article on how I do filter maintenance on my Bio-Wheel 200 which is
an HOB filter system. It shows how I did "surgery" to the filter cartridge
to remove the old carbon and how I added more polypad filter media for
mechanical filtration.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of uniqueen2004
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 9:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Maintenance

Hey all. I just read Lenny's blog on filter maintenance, and it makes sense
for one of my filters, which is the kind that has everything in one
cartridge. thus the "swooshing and squeezing" makes sense to me.
However, on my other 10 gallon, I have a Top Fin filter that has 3 parts to
the filtration system. These are a carbon bag, which they say to rinse out
before you put it in and replace once per month. Then there is a sponge,
which they say to change once every 2 months. Then there is this bag of
stuff they call Biomax. it is little-ish white cylander shaped peices in a
loose mesh bag, which they say to change once every 3 months. They also warn
you not to change all three at the same time. So all of a sudden, the
swooshing and squeezing doesn't make sense any more. Is this a better filter
set up, in which you are never removing all of the bacteria? Or is this
advice just as bad as replacing the entire filter monthly? Thanks in
advance.

Karen from NY


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23070 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Dumb question, need help...
Hi All,

I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home. Hooked it up
according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a siphon going to save
my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I know I've read
where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns the water off
so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer hose. 25 feet doesn't
quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5 gallon. I tried on the 5 gallon
and it never did work. I finally unhooked it and ran the hose outside and got
a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then vacuumed it out and filled with the
trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon belly mollies
into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy and very active.
I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone know that?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23071 From: ipartyforfun Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Wow Tracey, Sorry your having such problems with the Python. We have
really low water pressure here too but have never had a problem. I
also have to watch when I turn the water off, I have to remove the
tube or it keeps sucking.

Try turning the water on full force to get the suction started, then
once its started back off the water pressure. Maybe that will help.
Once you get the kinks worked out, you will simply love it. We have 4
tanks and use it for all of them and it makes it go soo much quicker.

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23072 From: moondancr Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
Hi All,

Thank you all for your help and suggestions and links. I will follow
the suggestions and I might even try some live plants. I'll have to do
some research on the live plants. I dislike the plastic plants anyway.
Would I have to change the water so often if I had live plants? Also,
do plants really need the plant food that they recommend in the pet
shop and the 12 hours of artificial light?

I use API tap water conditioner and have also tried API stress zyme.
(that was in answer to someone's question)

I am now wondering if one could get a tank to cycle so well that one
wouldn't have to even have a filter system, but aeration of course. I
had a friend who I think had an underground "something" and he said it
had this natural recyling in his tank, with the plants and I believe
an undergravel area.

Anyway, thank you do much. I am over here sort of laughing to myself
though because I remember when I was a kid (and young adult) and had
10 gallon tanks, with one of those little corner filters/aeration
boxes (which I changed when it got filthy) and threw in some guppies
and neons and they did just fine....lol. The only fish that ever died
unexpectedly on me was the hatchet fish, which I liked but I never had
luck with. things nowdays are so much more complicated, especially all
these water changes, which I never did but just added water when the
water got low. (of course I don't know if the fish were happy, but
they sure were swimming all over the place...lol).

thank you, Carol D. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23073 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
OK. Simple things first. Did you open the valve at the end of the gravel
siphon where it connects to the main long hose? When the valve handle is
running parallel with the hoses, it's open. If it is running perpendicular
with the hoses, it's closed. If it's closed, it will not siphon. This is a
safety valve that you should keep a finger near when using the python in
case you suck a fish or something into the python that you did not plan.
Quickly close that valve and it will stop the water flow. Now, when
refilling the tank, if you close this valve, it will turn off water going
into your tank but it could cause water to spray out of the connection valve
where it connects to your sink spigot.

If it's not that valve. One trick I've found that makes the siphon work
quicker is to fill the hose with water as if you are going to fill the tank
first. Just run the cold water slowly until the water fills up the main
hose all the way up to the gravel siphon section. Then sink the gravel
siphon section and CLOSE the valve I just spoke of. Then go and change the
faucet spigot valve into the siphon mode and turn on the water. Since that
valve on the hose connection was closed, the running water from your faucet
will create extra suction. Then put the gravel siphon in position and open
the valve on the hose connection. It should start right up.

And remember the old saying... there is no such thing as a dumb question.
The dummie is the person who doesn't ask. Of course, that saying goes
against another of my favorite sayings... "It is better to be quiet and
appear stupid than to open your mouth and remove all doubt!" LOL But I
think the latter saying has more to do with someone "saying" something
rather than "asking" something.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Dumb question, need help...

Hi All,

I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home. Hooked it up
according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a siphon going
to save my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I know
I've read where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns
the water off so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer
hose. 25 feet doesn't quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5
gallon. I tried on the 5 gallon and it never did work. I finally unhooked it
and ran the hose outside and got a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then
vacuumed it out and filled with the trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would
be appreciated.

On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon belly mollies
into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy and very
active.
I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone know that?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23074 From: Peaches Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Hello Everyone:)

I have been meaning to address my shameful fear of the python for a while but I hadn't done it yet. Now I am ready to admit that I have made myself afraid of it. I have a fifty foot hose on mine so I should have no problem reaching the aquarium. I don't think I am as afraid of siphoning as I am filling the tank with tap water. How do you get the chlorine out of the water and what if any water conditioners do you all recomend. I am afraid of the chemical changes in the water and I know it should be something I could resolve.

My gouramis have to inspect everything I do anyway so want to be careful of them too. They have turned out to be nosy and bossy:)

Thanks in advance for any help you could give me:)

Hugs,
Peaches

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
{image}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23075 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
My first thought....TOO HOT.

If you have not done so already, turn off the lights on the tank, and open the hood or remove it if necessary.  The hood or cover can keep the heat in the tank.



If it were my tank I would go to the kitchen and get a zip lock bag and fill it with ice cubes and place it in the tank.  The zip lock will keep the ice/water with chlorine from harming the fish.

Monitor the temperature to make sure it does not drop too rapidly or below the temp that you want to keep your fish at.

Next, start another air line with bubble stone.  You need to try and agitate the surface of the water to increase the oxygen exchange, increase the oxygen level in the tank.. Cooler water has more oxygen than hotter water.

Next you can get a fan and aim it at the surface of the water(make sure the fan cannot fall in the tank) the fan can help reduce the temperature by blowing air across the surface.

In the warmer months I try and keep a large supply of frozen water bottles in my freezer in case it gets too warm.  I can add the forzen bottle, monitor the temperature, and put the melted bottle back in the freezer to re use. 

Mike




-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Scott Bardsley <rbardsley@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 20 Jun 2007 7:06 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] Panting fish!







Hello,

I am having a problem with my 20G tank. All of my fish seem to be
panting. I am moving, and several things have changed in my tank...
but nothing seems to be that far out of line. I know I should
minimize what I change, but this seemed like routine maintenance.

Water stats:
Temp: 86F (seems high, but it is hot out)
pH: 6.29
ORP: 384
GH: 4ppm
KH: 4ppm
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 0.5ppm (pre-water change and vacuum)
TDS: 330
Cu: 0.2ppm (not sure where this came from)
Phosphates: 1.0ppm (seemed high, added phosphate remover to filter)

In the tank there are:
4 tetras
4 flying foxes
2 CAEs
1 medium pleco
japonica shrimp
2 farowella catfish
1 pictus

The tank has that fancy substrate (underwater potting soil of sorts,
but phosphate free) and is semi-planted. It has an air wand as well.

I am running out of ideas! Is it the heat? Water change? They eat,
but their gills are moving incredibly fast. The pleco comes up to
grab air from the surface all the time too. Help!

Thanks

R





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23076 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
It might be your temp. 86 is high. The hotter the water, the less oxygen in it..
You could try lowering your water level to get a bigger "splash". I did this in
one of my tanks that runs hotter than the others. Hope this helps some...
Good luck.

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Ryan Scott Bardsley
Sent: Wed 6/20/2007 9:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Panting fish!



Hello,

I am having a problem with my 20G tank. All of my fish seem to be
panting. I am moving, and several things have changed in my tank...
but nothing seems to be that far out of line. I know I should
minimize what I change, but this seemed like routine maintenance.

Water stats:
Temp: 86F (seems high, but it is hot out)
pH: 6.29
ORP: 384
GH: 4ppm
KH: 4ppm
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 0.5ppm (pre-water change and vacuum)
TDS: 330
Cu: 0.2ppm (not sure where this came from)
Phosphates: 1.0ppm (seemed high, added phosphate remover to filter)

In the tank there are:
4 tetras
4 flying foxes
2 CAEs
1 medium pleco
japonica shrimp
2 farowella catfish
1 pictus

The tank has that fancy substrate (underwater potting soil of sorts,
but phosphate free) and is semi-planted. It has an air wand as well.

I am running out of ideas! Is it the heat? Water change? They eat,
but their gills are moving incredibly fast. The pleco comes up to
grab air from the surface all the time too. Help!

Thanks

R






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23077 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Sounds like you need to join P.A.... Python's Anonymous. LOL Your subject
title sounds like when someone stands up at one of the anonymous meetings
and announces themselves.

For refilling purposes, just add your dechlor product to your tank at the
start of the refill process and make sure the new water does not go directly
into the intake tube of any of your filter systems. The dechlor product
atoms will mix with the tank water and be waiting for any chlorine or
chloramine atoms to which they will attach immediately and break down the
chlorine/chloramine.

I just did another post today in the "Dumb question, need answers..." thread
about using a Python which will explain more on the basic operations.

They are pretty simple pieces of technology but you still have to make them
work so as long as you stay attentive to the siphon and refill process, your
fish will be fine. My goldfish follow the siphon tube around as I vacuum
the gravel in hopes I will stir up a piece of food that they missed but I've
never had an incident with them. I did read about a black moore who swam up
the siphon tube and had major problems but the Python user was starting the
suction manually from 50' away so they were not next for the few seconds it
took for the fish to swim up the tube and get caught. If you start the
suction as I explained in the other post I recently made, there is no chance
of a fish getting sucked up since the siphon will not work without you next
to the tank turning the hose connection valve on and/or off.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:49 PM
To: Aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python

Hello Everyone:)

I have been meaning to address my shameful fear of the python for a while
but I hadn't done it yet. Now I am ready to admit that I have made myself
afraid of it. I have a fifty foot hose on mine so I should have no problem
reaching the aquarium. I don't think I am as afraid of siphoning as I am
filling the tank with tap water. How do you get the chlorine out of the
water and what if any water conditioners do you all recomend. I am afraid of
the chemical changes in the water and I know it should be something I could
resolve.

My gouramis have to inspect everything I do anyway so want to be careful of
them too. They have turned out to be nosy and bossy:)

Thanks in advance for any help you could give me:)

Hugs,
Peaches


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23078 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please
The fish were much hardier back in the old days... or at least it seems that
way. Current fish seem to be inbred much more often to develop certain
"looks" and the inbreeding has lowered the immune systems, IMO. And the
bio-bugs have likely gotten worse and are resistant to the medicines we have
available, which is also a likely probability.

But what time has told us the most is that the fish are not supposed to live
in unfiltered filthy water... whether they are hardier or not. We now know
much more about the intricacies and actual genetics of the nitrifying
bacteria that "cycle" a tank.

There are some people working on "natural" tanks that do not require the
frequent water changes, like The Halstad Method for a planted tank with a
small bioload of fish and other folks are working on DIY systems for
denitrification using sump systems and heavily planted tanks. Certainly,
having lots of live plants will make the overall ecology of a tank much
better but they still require maintenance. Live plants require pruning from
time to time... of fast growing live leaves but also of any dying leaves
which would foul the water if left in the tank.

There are lots of easy to grow low-light plants that do not need lots of
special fertilizers or fancy lighting. Here is PlantGeek's list of
"very-easy" and "easy" plants...
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2 and
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3. I use
several of these plants in my Goldfish tank and Cherry Shrimp tank and I do
not use any kinds of fertilizer or special substrate in either of the tanks.
Of course, if you want a super nice planted tank, then you would probably
have to go higher tech.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of moondancr
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 3:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: tank problems/need help please

Hi All,

Thank you all for your help and suggestions and links. I will follow the
suggestions and I might even try some live plants. I'll have to do some
research on the live plants. I dislike the plastic plants anyway.
Would I have to change the water so often if I had live plants? Also, do
plants really need the plant food that they recommend in the pet shop and
the 12 hours of artificial light?

I use API tap water conditioner and have also tried API stress zyme.
(that was in answer to someone's question)

I am now wondering if one could get a tank to cycle so well that one
wouldn't have to even have a filter system, but aeration of course. I had a
friend who I think had an underground "something" and he said it had this
natural recyling in his tank, with the plants and I believe an undergravel
area.

Anyway, thank you do much. I am over here sort of laughing to myself though
because I remember when I was a kid (and young adult) and had 10 gallon
tanks, with one of those little corner filters/aeration boxes (which I
changed when it got filthy) and threw in some guppies and neons and they did
just fine....lol. The only fish that ever died unexpectedly on me was the
hatchet fish, which I liked but I never had luck with. things nowdays are so
much more complicated, especially all these water changes, which I never did
but just added water when the water got low. (of course I don't know if the
fish were happy, but they sure were swimming all over the place...lol).

thank you, Carol D. :)



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23079 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
A male molly will try and mate with any female molly. Moat mollies
are hybrids of different species of mollies.
As far as your python syphon goes the tank should sit higher
than the tank to syphon with out the water pressure (water seeks
it's own level). One problem that i encounter once in a while is
that plant bits will get syphoned up to the valve and I will have to
shut off the syphon and take the valve apart to get the plant parts
out of the valve. I have a knife that has a phillips head bit on it
so I do not have to look for the screwdriver in case I need to take
the valve apart.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home.
Hooked it up
> according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a
siphon going to save
> my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I
know I've read
> where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns
the water off
> so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer hose. 25
feet doesn't
> quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5 gallon. I tried
on the 5 gallon
> and it never did work. I finally unhooked it and ran the hose
outside and got
> a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then vacuumed it out and
filled with the
> trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon
belly mollies
> into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy
and very active.
> I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone
know that?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23080 From: Peaches Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Hi:)

I wrote the subject line like that as a silly joke :) LOL I did read the earlier post and thank you for it. You said something the other day that concerned me though when talking about PH levels.

My water just out of the tap has a higher PH level. 7.8 My tank is at 7.0. I am worried about shocking my fish. It seems to me that that is a pretty big jump. When I let it stand over night the PH drops to 7.2. You said something about buffers the water company adds.:)

By the Way, Are there any PA groups around LOL:) Maybe a WWFM group? (Worry Wart Fish Mom). I have to admit to being extremely attached to these little guys now.

Hugs,
Peaches

Sounds like you need to join P.A.... Python's Anonymous. LOL Your subject title sounds like when someone stands up at one of the anonymous meetings and announces themselves.

For refilling purposes, just add your dechlor product to your tank at the start of the refill process and make sure the new water does not go directly into the intake tube of any of your filter systems. The dechlor product atoms will mix with the tank water and be waiting for any chlorine or chloramine atoms to which they will attach immediately and break down the chlorine/chloramine.

I just did another post today in the "Dumb question, need answers..." thread about using a Python which will explain more on the basic operations.

They are pretty simple pieces of technology but you still have to make them work so as long as you stay attentive to the siphon and refill process, your fish will be fine. My goldfish follow the siphon tube around as I vacuum the gravel in hopes I will stir up a piece of food that they missed but I've never had an incident with them. I did read about a black moore who swam up the siphon tube and had major problems but the Python user was starting the suction manually from 50' away so they were not next for the few seconds it took for the fish to swim up the tube and get caught. If you start the suction as I explained in the other post I recently made, there is no chance of a fish getting sucked up since the siphon will not work without you next to the tank turning the hose connection valve on and/or off.

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:49 PM To: Aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python

Hello Everyone:)

I have been meaning to address my shameful fear of the python for a while but I hadn't done it yet. Now I am ready to admit that I have made myself afraid of it. I have a fifty foot hose on mine so I should have no problem reaching the aquarium. I don't think I am as afraid of siphoning as I am filling the tank with tap water. How do you get the chlorine out of the water and what if any water conditioners do you all recomend. I am afraid of the chemical changes in the water and I know it should be something I could resolve.

My gouramis have to inspect everything I do anyway so want to be careful of them too. They have turned out to be nosy and bossy:)

Thanks in advance for any help you could give me:)

Hugs, Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007 1:12 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks. ���`�.��.>.���`�.��.���`�.�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" To visit your group on the web, go to:
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23081 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Panting fish!
I would guess low oxygen, maybe as a result of the high temp. Increase
surface agitation by filter adjustments, or adding an airstone, or both.
Filter adjustments include changing to a spray bar, lowering the water level
in the tank to create a waterfall as suggested by an earlier responder,
increasing water flow by cleaning a clogged filter, etc.



Are there enough plants in there to keep your Nitrate so low? I am
surprised if the tank is cycled that your Nitrate isn't higher.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ryan Scott Bardsley
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Panting fish!



Hello,

I am having a problem with my 20G tank. All of my fish seem to be
panting. I am moving, and several things have changed in my tank...
but nothing seems to be that far out of line. I know I should
minimize what I change, but this seemed like routine maintenance.

Water stats:
Temp: 86F (seems high, but it is hot out)
pH: 6.29
ORP: 384
GH: 4ppm
KH: 4ppm
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 0.5ppm (pre-water change and vacuum)
TDS: 330
Cu: 0.2ppm (not sure where this came from)
Phosphates: 1.0ppm (seemed high, added phosphate remover to filter)

In the tank there are:
4 tetras
4 flying foxes
2 CAEs
1 medium pleco
japonica shrimp
2 farowella catfish
1 pictus

The tank has that fancy substrate (underwater potting soil of sorts,
but phosphate free) and is semi-planted. It has an air wand as well.

I am running out of ideas! Is it the heat? Water change? They eat,
but their gills are moving incredibly fast. The pleco comes up to
grab air from the surface all the time too. Help!

Thanks

R





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23082 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/20/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Dreammaker,

Good reminder about the Python sucking something up (usually a piece of
plant) that gets caught in the smaller diameter of the hose connections,
valves or where the water drains through the faucet valve. Instead of
taking it apart to clean it, I simply turn the water off, point the python
into the sink, change the faucet valve from siphon to refill and run water
through the hose. The reverse flow of the water almost always clears
whatever was clogging one of the hoses.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Dumb question, need help...

A male molly will try and mate with any female molly. Moat mollies are
hybrids of different species of mollies.
As far as your python syphon goes the tank should sit higher than the tank
to syphon with out the water pressure (water seeks it's own level). One
problem that i encounter once in a while is that plant bits will get
syphoned up to the valve and I will have to shut off the syphon and take the
valve apart to get the plant parts out of the valve. I have a knife that has
a phillips head bit on it so I do not have to look for the screwdriver in
case I need to take the valve apart.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t- swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home.
Hooked it up
> according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a
siphon going to save
> my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I
know I've read
> where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns
the water off
> so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer hose. 25
feet doesn't
> quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5 gallon. I tried
on the 5 gallon
> and it never did work. I finally unhooked it and ran the hose
outside and got
> a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then vacuumed it out and
filled with the
> trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon
belly mollies
> into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy
and very active.
> I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone
know that?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007
1:12 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23083 From: moondancr Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Hi,

My platies did not like the "crisps" at all and I had to take them
back to the store. The crisps would break up into the tiniest pieces
and then my girls would try them and spit them back out. They do love
the regular tropical flakes however and the bigger the better...lol.
Platies are a bit of piggies anyway, so they do seem to like a big
hunk of food, even my one tiny little baby. It's so funny to see her
grab onto a great big flake of food and try to drag it into a safe
place to eat it...lol.

I am not sure it's just laziness about poeple feeding their fish once
a day as I read online that there was this study/research done that
said that the fish seemed to live longer on once a day feedings. I
know that's why I changed my routine a few weeks ago. Maybe some
people are going by these articles/research. I have tried the once a
day feedings for a couple weeks now but I am going back to twice a day
feedings as they so look forward to being fed twice a day. :)

I will keep the once a day feeding for my betta though as I have done
this for a year with him and he is doing so well and seems happy.

Carol D. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Judith Downing <beary@...> wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
> If you are worried about overfeeding there is a new food type that
> may help. At least it is new to me. It is called TetraMin Tropical
> Crisps. The reason it can help is that one crisp is enough food for a
> one inch fish. So you can approximate how many to add. The crisps
> come in three types, a center for color, growth, & Spirulina, all
> surrounded by a ring of essential nutrients. My fish like them & I
> like knowing how many to add. There also is a variety called TetraMin
> Pro Tropical Crisps, I haven't figured out the difference between the
> two.
>
> Judy
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23084 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
I only feed my fish once per day, but that is not due to either
laziness or web articles. My fish just weren't eating all the food I
put in the tank when I fed them 2 times per day. And they were all
developing big bellies (no females in the tank). I didn't see how to
put in less at a time, as I was feeding them only small pinches of
crumbled up flake food, and I was tired of the wated food, so I
switched to feeding them once per day. I still do weekly PWC, and my
fish seem to be happier with once per day feedings than they ever
were with 2. As a sideline, has anyone else noticed that Guppies
poop more then other tropical fish, like mollies? I have a guppy
tank and an "other" tropical fish tank, and the one with guppies
always has more filth in the gravel. I just though it was
interesting to see the difference as I cleaned the tanks.


> I am not sure it's just laziness about poeple feeding their fish
once
> a day as I read online that there was this study/research done that
> said that the fish seemed to live longer on once a day feedings. I
> know that's why I changed my routine a few weeks ago. Maybe some
> people are going by these articles/research. I have tried the once
a
> day feedings for a couple weeks now but I am going back to twice a
day
> feedings as they so look forward to being fed twice a day. :)
>
> I will keep the once a day feeding for my betta though as I have
done
> this for a year with him and he is doing so well and seems happy.
>
> Carol D. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23085 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
I'm not saying it's laziness for feeding them once a day. It's generally
laziness for NOT doing proper tank and filter maintenance, PWC's, etc. The
reason the fish live longer on once a day feedings according to that article
you read, is because the water doesn't get as fouled as quickly but the fish
end up stunted in size due to insufficient feedings... especially in their
baby and juvenile months/years... when they need frequent feedings since
their metabolism is so high. With proper tank maintenance and feedings, the
fish should grow much larger and live much longer.

In the wild, fish spend 90% of their time looking for food and eating it...
but they have more than a gallon or a few gallons of water per fish so the
waste isn't a problem.

But PWC's should not just be done to remove waste and nitrates. There are
many other things happening in our tanks closed ecology that we cannot
easily test for and the only way to remove/replace these things is by doing
regular and frequent PWC's (things like hormone levels which cause stunting
and stress issues a/k/a health issues, etc.).

For example, we all know that the pH of a tank will go down further and
further between PWC's. This is because all of the life forms in the tank,
including our fish, use up the minerals and trace elements in the water as
part of living. Without a constant influx of fresh water, these minerals
and elements will get dangerously low. We can test the GH and KH and see
them both go down between PWC's. If the KH gets too low, it can cause a pH
crash which can make fish sick or even kill them. Some companies sell
additives that are supposed to replace these trace elements and minerals
between PWC's but these additives do not remove the waste, hormone, etc.,
buildup that is happening. The "natural" way of doing things is a constant
supply of fresh water, which for our tanks is from frequent PWC's, like
mother nature and God intended for them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of moondancr
Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2007 12:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:tank problems/need help please/overfeeding

Hi,

My platies did not like the "crisps" at all and I had to take them back to
the store. The crisps would break up into the tiniest pieces and then my
girls would try them and spit them back out. They do love the regular
tropical flakes however and the bigger the better...lol.
Platies are a bit of piggies anyway, so they do seem to like a big hunk of
food, even my one tiny little baby. It's so funny to see her grab onto a
great big flake of food and try to drag it into a safe place to eat
it...lol.

I am not sure it's just laziness about poeple feeding their fish once a day
as I read online that there was this study/research done that said that the
fish seemed to live longer on once a day feedings. I know that's why I
changed my routine a few weeks ago. Maybe some people are going by these
articles/research. I have tried the once a day feedings for a couple weeks
now but I am going back to twice a day feedings as they so look forward to
being fed twice a day. :)

I will keep the once a day feeding for my betta though as I have done this
for a year with him and he is doing so well and seems happy.

Carol D. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Judith Downing <beary@...> wrote:
>
> Hi!
>
> If you are worried about overfeeding there is a new food type that may
> help. At least it is new to me. It is called TetraMin Tropical Crisps.
> The reason it can help is that one crisp is enough food for a one inch
> fish. So you can approximate how many to add. The crisps come in three
> types, a center for color, growth, & Spirulina, all surrounded by a
> ring of essential nutrients. My fish like them & I like knowing how
> many to add. There also is a variety called TetraMin Pro Tropical
> Crisps, I haven't figured out the difference between the two.
>
> Judy
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/857 - Release Date: 6/20/2007
2:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23086 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
I do that first but sometimes with Java moss or other fine leaved
plants they will get caught up in the valve so that I cannot put the
valve on the "fill" position. That is when I take the valve apart to
get the debris out. It takes about 2 minutes for me to complete this
operation.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Dreammaker,
>
> Good reminder about the Python sucking something up (usually a
piece of
> plant) that gets caught in the smaller diameter of the hose
connections,
> valves or where the water drains through the faucet valve.
Instead of
> taking it apart to clean it, I simply turn the water off, point
the python
> into the sink, change the faucet valve from siphon to refill and
run water
> through the hose. The reverse flow of the water almost always
clears
> whatever was clogging one of the hoses.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of dreammaker2623
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 5:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Dumb question, need help...
>
> A male molly will try and mate with any female molly. Moat mollies
are
> hybrids of different species of mollies.
> As far as your python syphon goes the tank should sit higher than
the tank
> to syphon with out the water pressure (water seeks it's own
level). One
> problem that i encounter once in a while is that plant bits will
get
> syphoned up to the valve and I will have to shut off the syphon
and take the
> valve apart to get the plant parts out of the valve. I have a
knife that has
> a phillips head bit on it so I do not have to look for the
screwdriver in
> case I need to take the valve apart.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t- swatek@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home.
> Hooked it up
> > according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a
> siphon going to save
> > my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I
> know I've read
> > where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns
> the water off
> > so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer hose.
25
> feet doesn't
> > quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5 gallon. I
tried
> on the 5 gallon
> > and it never did work. I finally unhooked it and ran the hose
> outside and got
> > a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then vacuumed it out and
> filled with the
> > trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> > On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon
> belly mollies
> > into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy
> and very active.
> > I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone
> know that?
> >
> > Thanks in advance for any help!
> >
> > Traci Swatek-Rice
> > DMOS5 manufacturing
> > Texas Instruments
> > <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date:
6/19/2007
> 1:12 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23087 From: Debbie Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Hello everyone, Got a question for you, I have a 24 gallon aqua pod
tank thats been going now for a few months, was doing really well.. all
my numbers are good, but not knowing a lot about saltwater fish.. I
brought home a regal blue tang that I think was sick.. put medicine in
for it, hoping to save my corals. Also have snails and crabs, anyways
med didn't work after 3 weeks so I found something else the LFS said
and even the bottle said it was good for the corals too.. well in one
dose of this stuff called Kick-Ick it wiped out all my fish.. was a sad
day... so now I'm waiting a month so the tank can recoup, still have 2
flowerpots, 2 clams, featherduster, 3 turbo snails and about 8-9 crabs.
My featherduster hasn't really been opening up like it was before.. but
today looking really really close I see pin dot creatures on the live
rocks. Hubby thinks it's baby crabs but I'm not sure what it is..???
any ideas what it is??? Debbie/ca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23088 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Hello From CT
OK, we know you have a 10 gallon tank. You say you already have two fish in it, but neglect to mention what they are. This puts us in kind of a bind when it comes to recommending more fish. Now for the fish you mention, the barbs are schooling fish and need to be in a group of at least 5, else they will bother the other fish in your tank. The female betta is probably OK, depending on what you currently have.

A little bit more information will go a long way.

What part of CT are you from?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kira.hayes
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello From CT

WELL, I have a ten gallon fresh water fish tank, I bought it a couple
months ago and was a definate NEWBIE and got sort of cheated by th pet
store (no one said ANYTHING about cycleing a tank) so i bought 8 fish
and of course i only have two left. The tank has finally cycled and
all my ph, nitrate ect. is normal, but im afraid to add fish now!!
lol. I have a Long Finned Barb and a Female Betta. Ill Have to pist
some pictures of my fish and the tank...DOES ANYONE have some Advice
as to some low maintance fish that would be a good choice for me to
FINALLY stock my tank with? im only interested in buying a max of six
more fish to add for a total of 8. Thanks!!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23089 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Re: Panting fish!
First, the warmer the water, the less oxygen it will hold. Like us, fish
need oxygen to live, and now they are gasping, like you would after a
run, to get more oxygen. Following the hints already given, you can
lower the water temperature of your tank to make it easier on your fish.
(Oh, the joys of central air! <g>)

You do not mention if the heat is due to unusually warm weather, or if
it is typical of your area. I used to live further north than I now do,
and temperatures much over 80 were a rare occurrence, happening only
once or twice during the summer. Not many around had even room air
conditioners. Simply was not necessary, we would just "tough it out",
and the fish were not harmed by a slightly higher than normal
temperature for a day or two.

Also, I note that no one has mentioned your fish population. It seems
that your tank is a bit over crowded, or will be when the fish put on a
bit more growth, depending on their present size. I'd look to reducing
the population a bit, which could also help in your present situation.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Ryan Scott Bardsley
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 10:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Panting fish!

Hello,

I am having a problem with my 20G tank. All of my fish seem to be
panting. I am moving, and several things have changed in my tank...
but nothing seems to be that far out of line. I know I should
minimize what I change, but this seemed like routine maintenance.

Water stats:
Temp: 86F (seems high, but it is hot out)
pH: 6.29
ORP: 384
GH: 4ppm
KH: 4ppm
Ammonia: 0.0ppm
Nitrite: 0.0ppm
Nitrate: 0.5ppm (pre-water change and vacuum)
TDS: 330
Cu: 0.2ppm (not sure where this came from)
Phosphates: 1.0ppm (seemed high, added phosphate remover to filter)

In the tank there are:
4 tetras
4 flying foxes
2 CAEs
1 medium pleco
japonica shrimp
2 farowella catfish
1 pictus

The tank has that fancy substrate (underwater potting soil of sorts,
but phosphate free) and is semi-planted. It has an air wand as well.



I am running out of ideas! Is it the heat? Water change? They eat,
but their gills are moving incredibly fast. The pleco comes up to
grab air from the surface all the time too. Help!

Thanks

R
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23090 From: moondancr Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: tank problems/need help please/overfeeding
Hi,

I began feeding twice a day today and my "hiding" big mama platy is
now out of hiding and is acting much more friendly again...lol. Thank
you so much for explaining the feeding article, cycling and the
importance of fresh water changes. :)

Carol D. :)





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not saying it's laziness for feeding them once a day. It's
generally
> laziness for NOT doing proper tank and filter maintenance, PWC's,
etc. The
> reason the fish live longer on once a day feedings according to that
article
> you read, is because the water doesn't get as fouled as quickly but
the fish
> end up stunted in size due to insufficient feedings... especially in
their
> baby and juvenile months/years... when they need frequent feedings since
> their metabolism is so high. With proper tank maintenance and
feedings, the
> fish should grow much larger and live much longer.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23091 From: Allie Date: 6/21/2007
Subject: Newbie
hello. I may be new to the group but i am not new at all to the art of
freshwater fish keeping. i hope to learn as well as to teach to others
on here. i have six tanks, and have had just about every kind of fish
imaginable.
allie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23092 From: EAR Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie
Welcome Allie!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23093 From: Nedra Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they aggr
I heard skunk botias can clear a tank of snails, but I was watching
one in the LFS and he was chasing the fish around.

I don't want to add an agressive fish to my tanks. Does anyone know
if there are other sub-species that eat snails and don't chase fish?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23094 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they
Clown loaches work wonders. some also use upside down cats.

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: I heard skunk botias can clear a tank of snails, but I was watching
one in the LFS and he was chasing the fish around.

I don't want to add an agressive fish to my tanks. Does anyone know
if there are other sub-species that eat snails and don't chase fish?






---------------------------------
Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23095 From: Dave Roberts Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Got Snails -- heard that some Botia's will eat them - are they
If tank size is an issue and you want a smaller snail eater, I have had
great success with Yo Yo Loaches. I have them in a tank with live bearers
and have not seen any aggression issues. They also tend to leave my plants
alone except for sleeping in a floating java fern.

On 6/22/07, Allie Forst <allie1068@...> wrote:
>
> Clown loaches work wonders. some also use upside down cats.
>
> Nedra <terrierlover2002@... <terrierlover2002%40yahoo.com>> wrote: I
> heard skunk botias can clear a tank of snails, but I was watching
> one in the LFS and he was chasing the fish around.
>
> I don't want to add an agressive fish to my tanks. Does anyone know
> if there are other sub-species that eat snails and don't chase fish?
> ,_._,___
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23096 From: Leslie Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
HI Lenny,
I used a liquid test for Ammonia, doc wellfish I think.
I'm afraid the ammonia is coming from the left over food that I can
not get out of the tank.

I just purchased a turkey baster yesterday and that helped to get
some dead plant matter and a couple of fuzzy pieces of old fish
flake out, but I still need to see that food doesn't continue to get
down there. It's too hard to clean it up.

Now the fish is hardly eating at all and I think it's internal
parasites. I've used the jungle parasite gaurd so we shall see. :(

Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> With a heavily planted tank and a single small fish, you should
not be
> getting any ammonia reading. Get a separate test of your tank
water from
> another test kit or your LFS. What brand and kind of test kit are
you
> using?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Leslie Lynn M.
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 5:42 PM
> To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Discus issues
>
> I just set up a 6 gal Eclipse (getting back into fish after the
> move...FINALLY) and a friend unloaded a little 2" discus on me. He
was being
> picked on by others and was black with stress. So he's in my newly
set up
> heavily planted Eclipse.
>
> 1. When I feed him even the tiniest amount of food, he doesn't get
it all
> and it hits the bottom where he can't get through the plants to
eat it, so
> it stays in the tank which I do NOT want. How can I feed him
without this
> happening?
>
> 2. I put some filter media from a friends tank into my filter
area, used
> some water from the same tank but my Eclipse is reading ammonia
each day. I
> change the water with RO water about 25% each time it reads
ammonia (which
> it's been reading at .25 and no more each time.) But MUST I go
through an
> ammonia spike if I have used filter media in my tank?
>
> TY
> Leslie
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.0/851 - Release Date:
6/16/2007
> 12:50 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23097 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Use a small tube siphon gravel vacuum and just pass it lightly over your
substrate, since your tank is planted, to get the excess food and detritus
without disturbing the substrate too much. Also, with the small tube, you
should be able to get in and around the plants to get excess out of there.
If you have that much extra food, you need to cut back your feedings. Get
all of the dead or dying plant matter out of your tank also as that will
foul your water as well.

Another thing you could do, if the food is getting swept around by the
filtration, is unplug the filter for a minute before you feed the fish.
This way all of the food will stay in one area and you can see how much it
eats before it slows down. Then you will know how much to feed it. I used
this method of unplugging the filter in a planted tank for the same reason.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny

HI Lenny,
I used a liquid test for Ammonia, doc wellfish I think.
I'm afraid the ammonia is coming from the left over food that I can not get
out of the tank.

I just purchased a turkey baster yesterday and that helped to get some dead
plant matter and a couple of fuzzy pieces of old fish flake out, but I still
need to see that food doesn't continue to get down there. It's too hard to
clean it up.

Now the fish is hardly eating at all and I think it's internal parasites.
I've used the jungle parasite gaurd so we shall see. :(

Leslie

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> With a heavily planted tank and a single small fish, you should
not be
> getting any ammonia reading. Get a separate test of your tank
water from
> another test kit or your LFS. What brand and kind of test kit are
you
> using?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Leslie Lynn M.
> Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2007 5:42 PM
> To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:aquaticlife%40yahoogroups.com>
> ; uniquaria@yahoogroups.com <mailto:uniquaria%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Discus issues
>
> I just set up a 6 gal Eclipse (getting back into fish after the
> move...FINALLY) and a friend unloaded a little 2" discus on me. He
was being
> picked on by others and was black with stress. So he's in my newly
set up
> heavily planted Eclipse.
>
> 1. When I feed him even the tiniest amount of food, he doesn't get
it all
> and it hits the bottom where he can't get through the plants to
eat it, so
> it stays in the tank which I do NOT want. How can I feed him
without this
> happening?
>
> 2. I put some filter media from a friends tank into my filter
area, used
> some water from the same tank but my Eclipse is reading ammonia
each day. I
> change the water with RO water about 25% each time it reads
ammonia (which
> it's been reading at .25 and no more each time.) But MUST I go
through an
> ammonia spike if I have used filter media in my tank?
>
> TY
> Leslie

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.4/860 - Release Date: 6/21/2007
5:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23098 From: Nedra Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how about ju
Reading up on these little guys for my snail invasion -- everything
suggest keeping them in a shoal of 5-6 ...I don't have that kind of
room in a 30gal with 4 angel fish and 4 platies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23099 From: Andreas Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how abou
if you just get one he won't die from loneliness...

they do school in a cut manner

if there are no predators to scare it, it will be fine by itself

Andreas


On 6/22/07, Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote:
>
> Reading up on these little guys for my snail invasion -- everything
> suggest keeping them in a shoal of 5-6 ...I don't have that kind of
> room in a 30gal with 4 angel fish and 4 platies.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23100 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python
Take a look at http://www.petsforum.com/was/clubso.html for the clubs I know in PA.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 9:12 PM
To: Aquaticlife
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python

Hi:)

I wrote the subject line like that as a silly joke :) LOL I did read the earlier post and thank you for it. You said something the other day that concerned me though when talking about PH levels.

My water just out of the tap has a higher PH level. 7.8 My tank is at 7.0. I am worried about shocking my fish. It seems to me that that is a pretty big jump. When I let it stand over night the PH drops to 7.2. You said something about buffers the water company adds.:)

By the Way, Are there any PA groups around LOL:) Maybe a WWFM group? (Worry Wart Fish Mom). I have to admit to being extremely attached to these little guys now.

Hugs,
Peaches

Sounds like you need to join P.A.... Python's Anonymous. LOL Your subject title sounds like when someone stands up at one of the anonymous meetings and announces themselves.

For refilling purposes, just add your dechlor product to your tank at the start of the refill process and make sure the new water does not go directly into the intake tube of any of your filter systems. The dechlor product atoms will mix with the tank water and be waiting for any chlorine or chloramine atoms to which they will attach immediately and break down the chlorine/chloramine.

I just did another post today in the "Dumb question, need answers..." thread about using a Python which will explain more on the basic operations.

They are pretty simple pieces of technology but you still have to make them work so as long as you stay attentive to the siphon and refill process, your fish will be fine. My goldfish follow the siphon tube around as I vacuum the gravel in hopes I will stir up a piece of food that they missed but I've never had an incident with them. I did read about a black moore who swam up the siphon tube and had major problems but the Python user was starting the suction manually from 50' away so they were not next for the few seconds it took for the fish to swim up the tube and get caught. If you start the suction as I explained in the other post I recently made, there is no chance of a fish getting sucked up since the siphon will not work without you next to the tank turning the hose connection valve on and/or off.

Lenny Vasbinder Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message----- From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Peaches Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:49 PM To: Aquaticlife Subject: [AquaticLife] My name is Peaches and I am scared of my Python

Hello Everyone:)

I have been meaning to address my shameful fear of the python for a while but I hadn't done it yet. Now I am ready to admit that I have made myself afraid of it. I have a fifty foot hose on mine so I should have no problem reaching the aquarium. I don't think I am as afraid of siphoning as I am filling the tank with tap water. How do you get the chlorine out of the water and what if any water conditioners do you all recomend. I am afraid of the chemical changes in the water and I know it should be something I could resolve.

My gouramis have to inspect everything I do anyway so want to be careful of them too. They have turned out to be nosy and bossy:)

Thanks in advance for any help you could give me:)

Hugs, Peaches

No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.1/854 - Release Date: 6/19/2007 1:12 PM

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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23101 From: Debbie Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Had another thought, could it be some kind of parasite that is left
from the ich... figured they would die when the fish all died...
Help.. anybody got any ideas!! Debbie/ca



In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Debbie" <silyolbear_ca@...> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone, Got a question for you, I have a 24 gallon aqua
pod
> tank thats been going now for a few months, was doing really well..
all
> my numbers are good, but not knowing a lot about saltwater fish.. I
> brought home a regal blue tang that I think was sick.. put medicine
in
> for it, hoping to save my corals. Also have snails and crabs,
anyways
> med didn't work after 3 weeks so I found something else the LFS
said
> and even the bottle said it was good for the corals too.. well in
one
> dose of this stuff called Kick-Ick it wiped out all my fish.. was a
sad
> day... so now I'm waiting a month so the tank can recoup, still
have 2
> flowerpots, 2 clams, featherduster, 3 turbo snails and about 8-9
crabs.
> My featherduster hasn't really been opening up like it was before..
but
> today looking really really close I see pin dot creatures on the
live
> rocks. Hubby thinks it's baby crabs but I'm not sure what it
is..???
> any ideas what it is??? Debbie/ca
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23102 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Could it be the ingredients in the medication. A lot of that stuff is bad
for invertabrates even in low doeses.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23103 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/22/2007
Subject: Re: Is it absolutely necessary to have a shoal of botia -- how abou
Ive never had that many botia even when i have enough room. Ive had one in a 55gal all by his lonesome for over a year now and hes doing just fine.

Allie

Nedra <terrierlover2002@...> wrote: Reading up on these little guys for my snail invasion -- everything
suggest keeping them in a shoal of 5-6 ...I don't have that kind of
room in a 30gal with 4 angel fish and 4 platies.






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23104 From: me Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
I want to set up an African chiclid tank with natural small rocks. The petshops charge an arm and a leg for the same river rocks that the landscape place sells much cheaper. Is it ok to just get them, or is it a different kind of rock that may exude bad minerals or something?
Also if I can buy a bucketful from the landscaper, do I need to do anything special to the rocks before I put them in the tank, like boil them or something?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23105 From: rick linboom Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
I would boil them......here's a suggestion, I've
done...I used lava rock, like the kind you can buy for
a bbq...and boiled them for a while, looks
awesome...just a suggestion....good luck








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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23106 From: Donna Ransome Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
The landscaper kind is fine. For mbuna, you probably want rocks bigger than
your fist and to fill your tank half full with them. For Tangs, peacocks
and haps you want more swimming area.



Lots of people use slate. In general, avoid rocks with any metal like iron,
copper, etc. For Africans, limestone is good to raise/maintain pH. Ask the
landscaper what minerals are in the rocks you buy.



Scrub them with a metal brush, get any algae or dirt completely off. Then I
ran mine through the dishwasher with no soap and on sanitize, but some
people boil them too.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of me
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 9:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium



I want to set up an African chiclid tank with natural small rocks. The
petshops charge an arm and a leg for the same river rocks that the landscape
place sells much cheaper. Is it ok to just get them, or is it a different
kind of rock that may exude bad minerals or something?
Also if I can buy a bucketful from the landscaper, do I need to do anything
special to the rocks before I put them in the tank, like boil them or
something?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@optonline. <mailto:betti%40optonline.net> net

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23107 From: Leslie Lynn M. Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
Lenny,

Unplugging the filter is a fantastic idea! Much of the problem is that the food gets swept down to quickly due to the filter catching it.
I'll do that today when I feed her.

I don't think I'm over feeding as I literally only give her a flake that's crumbled, and it's a small flake. But now she has internal parasites and she will NOT eat the pepso food even when smashed into bits. She'll eat bloodworms and that's about it.

Leslie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23108 From: Memrie Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Out of the mix/OT
Hey guys and gals. I will be missing for a few weeks. We had a little
boy on June 14th and right now I just don't have the energy to keep
up. Sadly it is showing in one of my tanks too but hopefully it will
be ok.
Looking forward to jumping back in..
Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23109 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny
If this works for you, maybe you or a friend can put an inline switch in the
power cord, up closer to the filter, if the plug is buried under the tank or
stand and is hard to get to. They sell little switches that are easy to
install inline on power cords for lamps and stuff. You can buy them at any
big-box home repair store or neighborhood hardware store. They are just a
couple of dollars.

Try soaking her food in garlic juice. Fresh squeezed is best as the garlic
juice even has some kind of chemical in it that is an antiparasitic
compound. If it's not fresh squeezed, it still works as an enticer to make
fish eat.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Leslie Lynn M.
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 12:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Discus issues/Thanks Lenny

Lenny,

Unplugging the filter is a fantastic idea! Much of the problem is that the
food gets swept down to quickly due to the filter catching it.

I'll do that today when I feed her.

I don't think I'm over feeding as I literally only give her a flake that's
crumbled, and it's a small flake. But now she has internal parasites and she
will NOT eat the pepso food even when smashed into bits. She'll eat
bloodworms and that's about it.

Leslie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/862 - Release Date: 6/22/2007
3:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium
Realize that rocks can contain minerals that, when dissolved by the
water, can be harmful to your fish. I noted that someone mentioned that
if the rock contained lime, it would be good for your cichlids, but this
is not necessarily so. Not all cichlids live in hard water with a high
pH, even those from Africa, though African is often used to describe
cichlids from one of the great rift lakes. However, if the lime
concentration in the rock is too high, it can also be detrimental,
raising the hardness and pH too much for your fish.

By purchasing the rocks from a LFS, you are playing it safe. The rock is
already washed, and should just require a rinse prior to adding them to
a tank. The rock should not contain anything that would possibly be
harmful to your fish. Finally, you have someone to go back to should the
rock cause a problem in your tank. That the rock is suitable for
aquarium use is implied by your LFS stocking them. On the other hand,
rock from your local landscaper, if they will allow you to buy a small
quantity will require a thorough cleaning with bleach and water prior to
use. There are no inherent guarantees as to the suitability of the rock.
It may be perfectly safe, but, if it is not, you could lose a lot of
fish, with no path to go back and claim harm from the rocks supplied.
You have no idea whether the rock would contain anything that may be
harmful.

Having said all that, I must admit that I have done the same thing
successfully, and I know of others who have done the same. Just be aware
that there is danger in them there rocks, and be prepared to handle any
situation that may come up with them--rapid removal from the tank with a
large water change.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of me
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 9:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] River Rocks in a chiclid aquarium

I want to set up an African chiclid tank with natural small rocks. The
petshops charge an arm and a leg for the same river rocks that the
landscape place sells much cheaper. Is it ok to just get them, or is it
a different kind of rock that may exude bad minerals or something?
Also if I can buy a bucketful from the landscaper, do I need to do
anything special to the rocks before I put them in the tank, like boil
them or something?
Thanks.

Betti-A Jersey Girl
betti@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23111 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Dumb question, need help...
Ok, gonna try the Python again tomorrow. I will try it in the
morning when the water pressure is better. I did everything like
Lenny said but maybe I wasn't patient enough. Wish me
luck.

On the other hand, I am enjoying watching the mollies
together. They are lively and interact a lot. I don't know
if some of it is courting type of interaction or fighting
but no one is hurt yet. My large cory has a small pink
egg like thing on his/her anal fin. I'd almost think it
was an egg but it's larger than what I imagined an egg
would be. It doesn't seem to bother it as he/she eats
well and swims around actively. I'm keeping an eye
on it to see if it grows any.

I'll post my results with the Python tomorrow if I can.
It's silly because I know how to use that type of pump.
I had water beds for years and it's the same. Oh well.
Thanks for the help, again.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of dreammaker2623
Sent: Wed 6/20/2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Dumb question, need help...



A male molly will try and mate with any female molly. Moat mollies
are hybrids of different species of mollies.
As far as your python syphon goes the tank should sit higher
than the tank to syphon with out the water pressure (water seeks
it's own level). One problem that i encounter once in a while is
that plant bits will get syphoned up to the valve and I will have to
shut off the syphon and take the valve apart to get the plant parts
out of the valve. I have a knife that has a phillips head bit on it
so I do not have to look for the screwdriver in case I need to take
the valve apart.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> I got my python this weekend and was so excited to get it home.
Hooked it up
> according to the directions and ... nothing. I couldn't get a
siphon going to save
> my life. Anyone have any ideas? My water pressure is low. But I
know I've read
> where someone just uses the water to get it going and then turns
the water off
> so I didn't think that would matter. I also need a longer hose. 25
feet doesn't
> quite make it to the big tank but it did reach a 5 gallon. I tried
on the 5 gallon
> and it never did work. I finally unhooked it and ran the hose
outside and got
> a siphon started in the 55 gallon and then vacuumed it out and
filled with the
> trusty old bucket. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> On a side note, I have recently added some mollies and balloon
belly mollies
> into the 55 gallon tank. They are pretty neat fish. Kind of piggy
and very active.
> I have enjoyed watching them. I wonder if they crossbreed? Anyone
know that?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help!
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23112 From: Debbie Swick Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Joey, probably was the med that killed all the fish but now I see these pin spot creatures on my live rocks.. not a lot but they are there.. and run away fast if they think your looking at them.. I know I sound like some kind of crazy lady but like I mentioned before my hubby even saw them.. he thinks they are baby crabs.. I thinks its more then that... thanks Debbie/ca


Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs Posted by: "joesbirds@..." joesbirds@... user975239 Fri Jun 22, 2007 8:48 pm (PST) Could it be the ingredients in the medication. A lot of that stuff is bad
for invertabrates even in low doeses.

Joey




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23113 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: question about saltwater strawberry crabs
Saltwater aquariums are cool because there are so many things that can come
in the live rock. When I had my tank up and running It seems I would see new
invertabrates every day(feather dusters, clams, corals, crabs and snails). I
don't know if they could be little crabs. One tank that i was experimenting
with had glass anenomes pop up months later and some huge bristleworms show up
later. The variety it seems can be endless with live rock it seems like.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23114 From: Janette Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Help Goldfish in trouble
Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure
of what exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins
and tail and large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website
that has pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it
looks like a large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in
any of my fish tanks and i have five. I am going to treat her for a
bacterial infection for now till i figure it out. all suggestion
welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23115 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Jannette look up goldfish breeding . Males get pimple like things when they
are ready to breed.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23116 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Try clicking this link. It should go here
_http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/breeding/goldfish.php_ (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/breeding/goldfish.php)

Joey

_Breeding Goldfish_ (http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/breeding/goldfish.php)
(http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)


_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23117 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Try www.koivet.com

n a message dated 6/23/2007 9:42:04 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
revolvingdoor76@... writes:




Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure
of what exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins
and tail and large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website
that has pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it
looks like a large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in
any of my fish tanks and i have five. I am going to treat her for a
bacterial infection for now till i figure it out. all suggestion
welcomed and appreceated.










************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23118 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
HI thanks i looked up some breeds and she or he looks like a red metallic veiltails and i also seen the pimples on males when they are read to breed and those are not it. What my fish has is ten times larger and only has one. I will try to take a picture and up loaded but last time i tried to uploead picture it would it for some odd reason.
Thanks for the help I just learned something new today about males when they are reay to breed .
Love and Peace.
Janette



joesbirds@... wrote:
Jannette look up goldfish breeding . Males get pimple like things when they
are ready to breed.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)

************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23119 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other
readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23120 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
The Tank is a 35gallon with 4 goldfish in them she is the largest and all the others are only half her size. I check all the water levels they were all okay except the ammonia. I always have this problem I stopped feeding as much ir got better but still there. I have apretty good filtration on there. I even brought an air conditoner for my dining room to keep the tanks at a proper tempture during these hot days. I did a about 35% water change and I am treating the water right know for fungus til i figure it out. Al though she is in good spirits still eating. I will keep you guys posted with all the info i get.

Thanks Janette



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other
readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23121 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
THanks for that site it looks like it can be one of three things i will figure it out, (Tuberculios, fungus)
THanks so much
Janette


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other
readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23122 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
When the goldfish are full grown, you will need at least a 100 gallon tank to house the four of them. Larger would be better.

I'm sorry that I can't say what the "pimple" you are seeing is or caused by, much less be able to offer you a cure or some relief from it, as I never saw such a thing on any of the goldfish I kept when I had them.


\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23123 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Your tank isn't big enough for four goldfish... especially not adult sized
goldfish. I know there are lots of sites out there saying 10G per goldfish
(or less in some really stupid sites) but 10G simply is no where near enough
water for an adult sized goldfish and yes, I have complained in writing to
most of the sites out there. 10G per juvenile works for about a year but
after that a much larger tank is needed. This is why you are having
nitrogen cycle issues, water quality issues and health issues for your fish.
As well as all of the things we can test for, there are many other
biological and chemical processes going on that we cannot easily test for.
One of these are hormones released by the fish which, in proper sized tanks
or in the wild are diluted in the larger water volume but in a small tank,
these hormones build up and cause stress issues to your fish. Stress issues
lead to immune system issues and that leads to the fish coming down with
various illnesses that they would normally be able to handle.

Until you are able to get a much larger tank, you probably need to do twice
weekly 25%-33% PWC's (partial water changes) and vacuum your gravel each
time to remove detritus. You also need to increase your filtration to 10X
(350 gph) which usually means two filter systems, either two HOB's or one
canister and one HOB. Any of the canister brands have large filter
reservoirs for holding lots of filter media. For HOB's, AquaClear makes a
larger reservoir filter system capable of holding multiple layers of
mechanical filtration. While I'm not an advocate of running chemical
filtration (carbon) in tanks on a permanent basis, in cases of overstocking
or undersized tanks, it's good to run carbon and change it every few weeks
or use one of the more advanced chemical filtration media (like Purigen)
which can be cleaned as needed every few weeks. These chemical medias will
help remove some of the hormones and other chemicals building up in your
water between PWC's. Doing these three things will at least give your
current tank the possible ability to cope with the bioload of the fish until
you can get a larger tank.

As soon as financially possible, you need to get a larger tank (which would
have been better than the A/C unit although A/C sure is nice too! :D If all
four goldfish are round-bodied fancy goldfish, maybe a 75G-90G long style
tank, as a bare minimum size and if the goldfish are long-bodied goldfish,
get at least 150-200G 6'-8' long tank.

Here is a good article (four parts) on goldfish care and it recommends
30-50G per goldfish just to give you an idea of the "real" bare minimums.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html and my
own goldfish care sheet, still under construction, can be found on my blog.


Write back with any other questions or concerns.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of janette maldonado
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 3:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

The Tank is a 35gallon with 4 goldfish in them she is the largest and all
the others are only half her size. I check all the water levels they were
all okay except the ammonia. I always have this problem I stopped feeding as
much ir got better but still there. I have apretty good filtration on there.
I even brought an air conditoner for my dining room to keep the tanks at a
proper tempture during these hot days. I did a about 35% water change and I
am treating the water right know for fungus til i figure it out. Al though
she is in good spirits still eating. I will keep you guys posted with all
the info i get.

Thanks Janette



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html
<http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html> has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23124 From: missbella.blue Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Hello to all,

I am new to the group and have had a Marine Tank for about a year and
a half.

We have recently purchased a pair of yellowheaded sleeper gobies. Can
anyone give us some tips on their care and feeding of these beautiful
fish?

Many thanks

Asti
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23125 From: janette maldonado Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
hThanks for all the good advice I am going to invest into a larger tank within the next 2weeks. Just as further info the tank was given to me with the fish when the owners moved out the country since i already had 3 tanks going and had had my fish for such a very long time. I had a 5th tank that i could have seperated them into but i am Currently using that as a nursery since my gupies dont know when enough is enough. I was not trying to breed them it just keeps happing I dont even know the males from the females. Crazy me. Thats my next project to deal with I am going to end up with about ten tanks when I get thru.

Thanks Janette



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Your tank isn't big enough for four goldfish... especially not adult sized
goldfish. I know there are lots of sites out there saying 10G per goldfish
(or less in some really stupid sites) but 10G simply is no where near enough
water for an adult sized goldfish and yes, I have complained in writing to
most of the sites out there. 10G per juvenile works for about a year but
after that a much larger tank is needed. This is why you are having
nitrogen cycle issues, water quality issues and health issues for your fish.
As well as all of the things we can test for, there are many other
biological and chemical processes going on that we cannot easily test for.
One of these are hormones released by the fish which, in proper sized tanks
or in the wild are diluted in the larger water volume but in a small tank,
these hormones build up and cause stress issues to your fish. Stress issues
lead to immune system issues and that leads to the fish coming down with
various illnesses that they would normally be able to handle.

Until you are able to get a much larger tank, you probably need to do twice
weekly 25%-33% PWC's (partial water changes) and vacuum your gravel each
time to remove detritus. You also need to increase your filtration to 10X
(350 gph) which usually means two filter systems, either two HOB's or one
canister and one HOB. Any of the canister brands have large filter
reservoirs for holding lots of filter media. For HOB's, AquaClear makes a
larger reservoir filter system capable of holding multiple layers of
mechanical filtration. While I'm not an advocate of running chemical
filtration (carbon) in tanks on a permanent basis, in cases of overstocking
or undersized tanks, it's good to run carbon and change it every few weeks
or use one of the more advanced chemical filtration media (like Purigen)
which can be cleaned as needed every few weeks. These chemical medias will
help remove some of the hormones and other chemicals building up in your
water between PWC's. Doing these three things will at least give your
current tank the possible ability to cope with the bioload of the fish until
you can get a larger tank.

As soon as financially possible, you need to get a larger tank (which would
have been better than the A/C unit although A/C sure is nice too! :D If all
four goldfish are round-bodied fancy goldfish, maybe a 75G-90G long style
tank, as a bare minimum size and if the goldfish are long-bodied goldfish,
get at least 150-200G 6'-8' long tank.

Here is a good article (four parts) on goldfish care and it recommends
30-50G per goldfish just to give you an idea of the "real" bare minimums.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html and my
own goldfish care sheet, still under construction, can be found on my blog.


Write back with any other questions or concerns.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of janette maldonado
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 3:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

The Tank is a 35gallon with 4 goldfish in them she is the largest and all
the others are only half her size. I check all the water levels they were
all okay except the ammonia. I always have this problem I stopped feeding as
much ir got better but still there. I have apretty good filtration on there.
I even brought an air conditoner for my dining room to keep the tanks at a
proper tempture during these hot days. I did a about 35% water change and I
am treating the water right know for fungus til i figure it out. Al though
she is in good spirits still eating. I will keep you guys posted with all
the info i get.

Thanks Janette



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html
has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23126 From: Pickles Date: 6/24/2007
Subject: Re: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Hi, I did a google search and here are just some of the sites it produced...have fun
reading! lol....Mary
http://www.jonbondy.com/HomePage/sleeper.htm
http://www2.hawaii.edu/~delbeek/gobies.html
http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/modules/caresheets/caresheet.php?caresheetID=19
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/marine/goby_ble/Golden-headedSleeper.php


----- Original Message -----
From: "missbella.blue" <missbella.blue@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 8:19 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies


Hello to all,

I am new to the group and have had a Marine Tank for about a year and
a half.

We have recently purchased a pair of yellowheaded sleeper gobies. Can
anyone give us some tips on their care and feeding of these beautiful
fish?

Many thanks

Asti



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23127 From: daphnia79 Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Does anyone give me information about the company that I can buy Da
Sorry about sending mail without permitting



I am a student in University during studying zooplankton. Actually I
harvest Zooplanktons, Daphnia magna. But it¡¯s already contemned. So
I want to buy the Clone of Daphnia Magna for study of Diel vertical
migration.

Does anyone give me information about the company that I can buy the
one?

If U know, take a time to contact me.



Thanks for reading.



Hyun Gi, Jung in South korea


e-mail: daphnia79@..., sigagnes@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23128 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Help Goldfish in trouble
Goldfish are so often "advertised" in goldfish bowls and then they sell lots
of small tanks which often have a few goldfish in them on the packaging
images so people don't realize just how big goldfish are supposed to get and
how much tank they need. I started out the same way and was actually in
worse shape than you are currently in. Now I have two fancy goldfish in a
65G tank and I still do weekly 25% PWC's and vacuum the gravel weekly. They
sure put out lots of poop. LOL

In case you don't already know, fancy goldfish should live for well over 10
years and even over 20 years if properly taken care of their entire lives.
Long-bodied goldfish live for over 25 years and even over 40 years so
hopefully you'll have yours for many years to come.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of janette maldonado
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 10:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Thanks for all the good advice I am going to invest into a larger tank
within the next 2weeks. Just as further info the tank was given to me with
the fish when the owners moved out the country since i already had 3 tanks
going and had had my fish for such a very long time. I had a 5th tank that i
could have seperated them into but i am Currently using that as a nursery
since my gupies dont know when enough is enough. I was not trying to breed
them it just keeps happing I dont even know the males from the females.
Crazy me. Thats my next project to deal with I am going to end up with about
ten tanks when I get thru.

Thanks Janette



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
Your tank isn't big enough for four goldfish... especially not adult sized
goldfish. I know there are lots of sites out there saying 10G per goldfish
(or less in some really stupid sites) but 10G simply is no where near enough
water for an adult sized goldfish and yes, I have complained in writing to
most of the sites out there. 10G per juvenile works for about a year but
after that a much larger tank is needed. This is why you are having nitrogen
cycle issues, water quality issues and health issues for your fish.
As well as all of the things we can test for, there are many other
biological and chemical processes going on that we cannot easily test for.
One of these are hormones released by the fish which, in proper sized tanks
or in the wild are diluted in the larger water volume but in a small tank,
these hormones build up and cause stress issues to your fish. Stress issues
lead to immune system issues and that leads to the fish coming down with
various illnesses that they would normally be able to handle.

Until you are able to get a much larger tank, you probably need to do twice
weekly 25%-33% PWC's (partial water changes) and vacuum your gravel each
time to remove detritus. You also need to increase your filtration to 10X
(350 gph) which usually means two filter systems, either two HOB's or one
canister and one HOB. Any of the canister brands have large filter
reservoirs for holding lots of filter media. For HOB's, AquaClear makes a
larger reservoir filter system capable of holding multiple layers of
mechanical filtration. While I'm not an advocate of running chemical
filtration (carbon) in tanks on a permanent basis, in cases of overstocking
or undersized tanks, it's good to run carbon and change it every few weeks
or use one of the more advanced chemical filtration media (like Purigen)
which can be cleaned as needed every few weeks. These chemical medias will
help remove some of the hormones and other chemicals building up in your
water between PWC's. Doing these three things will at least give your
current tank the possible ability to cope with the bioload of the fish until
you can get a larger tank.

As soon as financially possible, you need to get a larger tank (which would
have been better than the A/C unit although A/C sure is nice too! :D If all
four goldfish are round-bodied fancy goldfish, maybe a 75G-90G long style
tank, as a bare minimum size and if the goldfish are long-bodied goldfish,
get at least 150-200G 6'-8' long tank.

Here is a good article (four parts) on goldfish care and it recommends
30-50G per goldfish just to give you an idea of the "real" bare minimums.
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html
<http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Wilkinson_1Goldfish.html> and my
own goldfish care sheet, still under construction, can be found on my blog.

Write back with any other questions or concerns.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of janette maldonado
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2007 3:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

The Tank is a 35gallon with 4 goldfish in them she is the largest and all
the others are only half her size. I check all the water levels they were
all okay except the ammonia. I always have this problem I stopped feeding as
much ir got better but still there. I have apretty good filtration on there.
I even brought an air conditoner for my dining room to keep the tanks at a
proper tempture during these hot days. I did a about 35% water change and I
am treating the water right know for fungus til i figure it out. Al though
she is in good spirits still eating. I will keep you guys posted with all
the info i get.

Thanks Janette

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html
<http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html>
has lots of pictures as well as
pretty good diagnosis and treatment information. It's not just for goldfish
though.

Where is the "pimple" located? I'll presume you know about proper goldfish
keeping as far as filtration and tank size requirements... and it's not 10G
(or less) per goldfish as so many sites irresponsibly promote. If you don't
have the fish in a proper sized home, it will have stress issues which lead
to immune system and health issues. Just throwing that in for other readers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Janette
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 11:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help Goldfish in trouble

Help my goldfish is in trouble i have a very large goldfish not sure of what
exact name was given to me 5 years ago she has very large fins and tail and
large in Body size.

Well my question is this is there any where i can go like a website that has
pictures of dieseas to be able to figure out what she has it looks like a
large pimple with puss under it never ever seen this in any of my fish tanks
and i have five. I am going to treat her for a bacterial infection for now
till i figure it out. all suggestion welcomed and appreceated.

janette ingnore the spelling please typing on my laptop isn't easy

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.472 / Virus Database: 269.9.6/863 - Release Date: 6/23/2007
11:08 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23129 From: lulu_rocks_socks Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Does anyone else have an african clawed frog?!?!?!
Hiya everyone I just joined yahoo & came across your group =]!
Anyway Im just wondering does anyone here have an african clawed frog
& would like to share any tips, stories or any other info?!?!?! I've
had one for about 6 months and I love him he's probably the most
amazing & entertaining thing in my whole tank! Anybody else agree that
these are amazing pets???
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23130 From: Aaron Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone else have an african clawed frog?!?!?!
Hi LuLu,

Welcome to the Group.

I have about 7 of the Dwarf variety in my 55gallon planted tank.

They are fun to watch.

I heard the others can get big and eat the fish.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lulu_rocks_socks"
<lulu_rocks_socks@...> wrote:
>
> Hiya everyone I just joined yahoo & came across your group =]!
> Anyway Im just wondering does anyone here have an african clawed frog
> & would like to share any tips, stories or any other info?!?!?! I've
> had one for about 6 months and I love him he's probably the most
> amazing & entertaining thing in my whole tank! Anybody else agree
that
> these are amazing pets???
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23131 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/25/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone give me information about the company that I can bu
In the US, we would look at a biological supply house, like Carolina Biological Supply. I suspect that there are places like this in your country (Korea?). Your school should be able to direct you if you have difficulty on your own in finding one.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of daphnia79
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 3:22 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does anyone give me information about the company that I can buy Daphnia Magna?

Sorry about sending mail without permitting



I am a student in University during studying zooplankton. Actually I
harvest Zooplanktons, Daphnia magna. But it¡¯s already contemned. So
I want to buy the Clone of Daphnia Magna for study of Diel vertical
migration.

Does anyone give me information about the company that I can buy the
one?

If U know, take a time to contact me.



Thanks for reading.



Hyun Gi, Jung in South korea


e-mail: daphnia79@..., sigagnes@...



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23132 From: aparadecti24 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Crayfish
Hello everyone!


I am new to the group and I need help to a tough topic...
I am searching for bibliography about crayfish in the rivers of
Epirus , Greece.
I know it is quiet tough , but if anyone has any clue about where to
search , I would be really greatful!
Thank you in advance!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23133 From: kstringer1974 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Looking to start first saltwater tank
I have a 180G freshwater tank currently (along with several smaller
ones) that I would like to convert into a salt water tank.
I really don't know anything about salt water tanks and what I really
do and do not need to start one up of that size (or any size for that
matter).

Can anyone make some recommendations for books that I can read to get
more information? It's hard to know the good ones from the bad ones out
there when you're a newbie to the subject.

Thank you in advance for any advice :-)

Cheers,
Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23134 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
You could start with the people in charge of hunting and fishing and
maybe environmental protection people. There might be some help in
libraries. Those are the places that I would start.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aparadecti24"
<lydia_giannaki@...> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone!
>
>
> I am new to the group and I need help to a tough topic...
> I am searching for bibliography about crayfish in the rivers of
> Epirus , Greece.
> I know it is quiet tough , but if anyone has any clue about where to
> search , I would be really greatful!
> Thank you in advance!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23135 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Yellowheaded Sleeper Gobies
Hi Asti,

I have had my yellowhead sleeper goby for about 1.5 yrs & it's grown quite a bit in that time. It doesn't seem to have any special needs that I can tell. It eats both the prepared foods I feed the tank, plus sifts the sand. So really the main thing I'd suggest is that you have a nicely established sand bed along with feeding quality frozen/flake/pellet foods.

Here's a link to a pic from last year.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v681/valeen/?action=view¤t=85837bigboyrc2.jpg

It's at least an inch longer than that & quite a bit bigger around now. My hubby & I call it big boy cuz it's by far the biggest fish we have in our 40g

-Valeen


Valeen Robertson Gonzalez
valeendgonzalez@...







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23136 From: Cory Walter Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to start first saltwater tank
there is a good "saltwater aquariums for dummies" on the market.......you can get it at any bookstore, Amazon.com or ebay.........


----- Original Message ----
From: kstringer1974 <kstringer1974@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 11:25:28 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking to start first saltwater tank

I have a 180G freshwater tank currently (along with several smaller
ones) that I would like to convert into a salt water tank.
I really don't know anything about salt water tanks and what I really
do and do not need to start one up of that size (or any size for that
matter).

Can anyone make some recommendations for books that I can read to get
more information? It's hard to know the good ones from the bad ones out
there when you're a newbie to the subject.

Thank you in advance for any advice :-)

Cheers,
Kevin






____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for earth-friendly autos?
Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23137 From: chris nuttall Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby bristlenose catfish?
Hello everyone,

I have a pair of bristlenose catfish, every now and then they have a
load of babies. I transfer the babies to a 25 litre tank where they
grow large enough to go to the LFS.

Now to the point......
The 25 litre tank is infested with snails, they range in size from
1mm (newly born) to 12 mm (adult). They got there from my main tank
where their numbers are kept low by three clown loaches.

The loaches are the reason i have to move the baby catfish out of
the main tank (they hink that they are just delicious!)

I apreciate that i am over-feeding the baby catfish in the nursary
tank, this is intentional so they grow as quickly as possible, and i
perform frequent waterchanges to remove the excess nitrates.

I could manually remove the snails but this is not really practical
(there must be several hundred buried in the gravel (which is 12mm
deep and 2mm diameter by the way)

I could syphon them out but i fear i may also remove small baby fish.

I could kill them with copper but i dont want to poison the catfish.

I like the idea of adding a figure 8 puffer maybe, or something else
that will eat the snails....but it goes without saying that i dont
want anything that will eat the baby catfish (they are very small to
start with)


Has anyone got a suggestion of a snail-busting fish i could add?
(one that doesn't like the taste of catfish would be good!)


Thanks


Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23138 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
Try a search at www.scirus.com


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of aparadecti24
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 5:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crayfish

Hello everyone!


I am new to the group and I need help to a tough topic...
I am searching for bibliography about crayfish in the rivers of
Epirus , Greece.
I know it is quiet tough , but if anyone has any clue about where to
search , I would be really greatful!
Thank you in advance!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23139 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/26/2007
Subject: Re: Crayfish
I missed this original post but here are some sites I have in my favorites.

Crawfish Species By Country:
http://iz.carnegiemnh.org/crayfish/country_pages/species_by_country2.htm

Brigham Young University Crawfish Home Page:
http://crayfish.byu.edu/

Carnegie Institute's Crayfish Resources:
http://iz.carnegiemnh.org/crayfish/

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 9:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Crayfish

Try a search at www.scirus.com

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of aparadecti24
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 5:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Crayfish

Hello everyone!

I am new to the group and I need help to a tough topic...
I am searching for bibliography about crayfish in the rivers of Epirus ,
Greece.
I know it is quiet tough , but if anyone has any clue about where to search
, I would be really greatful!
Thank you in advance!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.8/869 - Release Date: 6/25/2007
5:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23140 From: April Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to start first saltwater tank
I would recommend the book "The Conscientious Marine Aquarist" by
Robert M. Fenner. He has a lot of info in his book. Setups rock
formations and what kind of fish. There are also great photos in it
too. The book is around $40.00 but well worth it.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Cory Walter <coryswalter@...>
wrote:
>
> there is a good "saltwater aquariums for dummies" on the
market.......you can get it at any bookstore, Amazon.com or
ebay.........
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: kstringer1974 <kstringer1974@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 11:25:28 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking to start first saltwater tank
>
> I have a 180G freshwater tank currently (along with several smaller
> ones) that I would like to convert into a salt water tank.
> I really don't know anything about salt water tanks and what I
really
> do and do not need to start one up of that size (or any size for
that
> matter).
>
> Can anyone make some recommendations for books that I can read to
get
> more information? It's hard to know the good ones from the bad ones
out
> there when you're a newbie to the subject.
>
> Thank you in advance for any advice :-)
>
> Cheers,
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Looking for earth-friendly autos?
> Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23141 From: April Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Introduction and nitrate problem
Hi, I'm April. I live in Alaska. I have a 65 gallon saltwater
aquarium with about 100lbs of live rock and two fish. A powder brown
tang and a neon dottyback. I also have a 10gallon freshwater aquarium
with one green terror. My saltwater tank has trouble with nitrates.
My ammonia is at 0 and the nitrites are at 0 but the nitrates sit
between 80 and 160 ppm. I also have the ich in the tank. I'm getting
a UV sterilizer to try and get rid of the ich. I know that it won't
effect what is on the fish but I'm hoping that it will give the fish
time to heal. I'm giving them mysis shrimp with garlic on it. I also
give the tang dried seaweed. I was told that the garlic could make the
fish taste bad and the ich wouldn't want to attach to them. I have
been doing 5 gallon water changes about every other day for a week now
and no drop. I'm going to do another change tonight. I did one last
night also. I got some reverse osmosis water to use for tonight and I
will be using that from now on. Right now I only have a 5 gallon
bucket free to do water changes. Do I need to suck it up and do like a
20 gallon change? Any help and advice is apreciated. thanks April
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23142 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
What type of filter do you have. Though you have a 65 gallon tank w

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23143 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
I thought Marine ICH was pretty rare. The U.V Sterilizer might slow down the
plankton and algea production in the tanks as well.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23144 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Sorry sent the last email before finishing. , But what type of lighting do
you have. How long has the tank been up. Was the live rock cured or uncured
before putting in the tank.

joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23145 From: Antony Dalton Date: 6/27/2007
Subject: Looking to start first saltwater tank
I'm right there with you, Kevin!



I'm putting together a 150 gallon marine tank that was given to me. It has
become much more involved than I ever imagined. I can't tell you yet
whether it will be worth it! Two great books I've been referencing are The
New Encyclopedia of the Saltwater Aquarium, Greg Jennings, and The New
Marine Aquarium, Michael Paletta. The information on saltwater aquariums at
About.com has also been very helpful. They even have a little online
course.



What's been recommended to me: wet/dry trickle filter with a sump large
enough to hold a Euroreef protein skimmer. (I'm an engineering geek, so I
did A LOT of research on the need for, and types of protein skimmers.
Euroreef was almost always one of the top ones.) Everyone said stay away
from the combo filter/ skimmers. You'll also need a circulating pump and a
heater. You might already have a lot of this stuff if you're converting
from fresh water.



Here's where you need to sit down: Most people have recommended 1 to 2
pounds of live rock per gallon of water. That's $1,000 or better. If you
want to keep coral (invertebrates) you will need some fancy (read that
"expensive") lighting. The choices are mind boggling and will depend a lot
on what you have and the setup for your aquarium. I'm using 440 watts of
VHO fluorescents to the tune of almost $400. This seems to be an "adequate"
setup for what I want to do. I would have had no problem dropping twice
that on metal halides, moon lights, and a chiller to compensate for all that
heat. I'm also learning that I will need a source of clean, pure water.
Tap water is no good and I'm certainly not going to buy pre mixed saltwater
from my LFS store forever, so there's another couple hundred on an RO/DI
system and storage tank! Don't even get me started on what the fish cost.



Why do you people keep doing this?? This thing had better be spectacular!
Kevin, let's keep in touch and compare notes. I'm hoping to plumb my system
this weekend.



Antony



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23146 From: kiran Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Hello all..

I am Kiran from India... am new to this group and also for fish
keeping... Just started this hobby just a month ago... and now this
hobby is driving me crazy and am in love with it. I have a 30 gallon
tank with 3 big sharks, 4 small sharks, 2 carps, 2 gold fishes, few Red
and black Zebra danios and of course few male guppies... My tank would
have been incomplete without guppies and zebras.

I had two big female guppies, which they would have delivered frys in a
couple of days, but they are dead now... I really dont know the reason
why. To save the frys I moved them to a seperate bowl, but found them
dead. Can anyone tell me the reason and more on Guppies breeding.

Thanks friends... Hope I will earn lots of friends from this group.
Love
Kiran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23147 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
What are your nitrates in your water from the tap? Have you tested the RO water?


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of April
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Introduction and nitrate problem

Hi, I'm April. I live in Alaska. I have a 65 gallon saltwater
aquarium with about 100lbs of live rock and two fish. A powder brown
tang and a neon dottyback. I also have a 10gallon freshwater aquarium
with one green terror. My saltwater tank has trouble with nitrates.
My ammonia is at 0 and the nitrites are at 0 but the nitrates sit
between 80 and 160 ppm. I also have the ich in the tank. I'm getting
a UV sterilizer to try and get rid of the ich. I know that it won't
effect what is on the fish but I'm hoping that it will give the fish
time to heal. I'm giving them mysis shrimp with garlic on it. I also
give the tang dried seaweed. I was told that the garlic could make the
fish taste bad and the ich wouldn't want to attach to them. I have
been doing 5 gallon water changes about every other day for a week now
and no drop. I'm going to do another change tonight. I did one last
night also. I got some reverse osmosis water to use for tonight and I
will be using that from now on. Right now I only have a 5 gallon
bucket free to do water changes. Do I need to suck it up and do like a
20 gallon change? Any help and advice is apreciated. thanks April



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23148 From: joe t Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Hello Kiran,

It sounds like an awful lot of fish for a 30 gallon tank. If the female guppies were in the tank when they dropped the fry, the other fish may have been after them as they were dropping. That may have killed them. Why the fry died after you moved them to the bowl is another mystery. It depends on a lot of things, none of which you give any specifics.

If you can give more details, I am sure the group will try to help you. One thing I know for certain is that your 30 gallon tank is too crowded.

Good luck.

joe t


---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23149 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Molly fry
Hi All,

I noticed when doing a water change this weekend that I have molly fry.
I have found 8. I removed them from the big tank and have placed them
in a 2 gallon tank with UGF. I got some liquid fry food and a weekend
feeder to feed them. The guy at the store said they could just nibble
on the feeder as needed. I also put a couple of the silk plants in there
for them to hide in. The plants have algae and I notice them eating at
that also. Any suggestions on what else I can do for them or if I need
to change something? My son and I are really having fun with them.
He is going to get hooked just like Mommy. Petsmart is his favorite
store. :)

Thanks,

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23150 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Do you have any troll fish?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23151 From: April Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Introduction and nitrate problem
Ok, I'm going to try and answer all of your questions. First my tank
has been up for 2 years. All the rock was cured when we got it. I
just put 25 more pounds into it a couple of days ago. The nitrates
were up before then. I have never had any problems until a couple of
months ago when I bought some fish from Petco and me being an idiot
didn't quarantine them. Before I knew it my whole tank was infected
with the ich. I went back to the store and the guy there told me
that all of their saltwater tanks had ich in them. I was like maybe
you should post a sign or something!!!! I treated the tank with
medicine ok for a reef tank. I had to take out the urchin and all
the snails and the seastar and I took out the carbon from the filter
and was told to turn off my protien skimmer. I didn't like it but I
did it hoping it would help. Anyway I lost my whole tank except for
my neon dottyback. I waited awhile. I don't know a month before
adding another fish. The ich appeared to be gone. There was no
signs of it on the dottyback. Of course I couldn't kill that fish if
I tried. HEEHEE. Ok now it is back!!!! Oh I didn't buy the Powder
Brown Tang(White face Tang) from Petco. I got it from a store that I
really trust and they had it for 3 weeks. Ok so now it has ich. I
didn't have any problems until I treated the tank. Now I don't want
to risk treating again. That is why I ordered the UV sterilizer.

I run a Rena xp3 filter. I'm going to hook another one up to it in a
couple of days. I have a SeaClone 150 protien skimmer that works
great!! I don't know what the nitrates are in the tap water here.
It is city water. I would think that they would control things like
that because it can kill a person. I know that it causes problems
with absorbtion of O2. I will go and test the RO water right now and
tell you. The RO water is 0ppm. Now for the tap water. The
nitrates in the tap water are about 5ppm. The Rena is set up with
two 30ppi and 2 20ppi foam pads then a layer of bio stars and ceramic
rings then some de-nitrate rocks then super activated carbon and then
3 water polishing pads. I have low lighting just enough for the
coraline algae. I'm waiting for a Aqualight Pro HQI/ Compact
Fluorescent Lunar light fixture to come in the mail. I ordered one
because my husband wants corals and anemones. Although you can't get
thoughs with the Nitrates so high. Well I need to get the water for
a major water change. I probably should just pick up a 20 gallon
aquarium and run the water in there for a couple of days and then do
the change. I mix the salt and then run a air stone for at least 24
hours and then bring the temp up with a heater to the same temp as
the tank. Am I doing that right? I just feel like I'm not doing
things right here. Please HELP!!! Now that your eyes are screaming
from all these letters I will let you go. Have a good day!!! April







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> What are your nitrates in your water from the tap? Have you tested
the RO water?
>
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23152 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Congrats Staci... You got lucky 8s with you... Of
course i ment your new mollies... Actually your adult
molly would have dropped more... But only there 8s
survived... They are lucky right?
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I noticed when doing a water change this weekend
that I have molly fry.
> I have found 8. I removed them from the big tank and
have placed them
> in a 2 gallon tank with UGF. I got some liquid fry
food and a weekend
> feeder to feed them. The guy at the store said they
could just nibble
> on the feeder as needed. I also put a couple of the
silk plants in there
> for them to hide in. The plants have algae and I
notice them eating at
> that also. Any suggestions on what else I can do for
them or if I need
> to change something? My son and I are really having
fun with them.
> He is going to get hooked just like Mommy. Petsmart
is his favorite
> store. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Check out fun summer activities for kids.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23153 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Hi Jenny... What is a troll fish... Am new to this
hobby.
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:
> Do you have any troll fish?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><(((
> (º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJEC
> T LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
<-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`
> ·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23154 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
There's no such thing as a troll fish as far as I know... but based on your
first post (below), with the numbers and types of fish you have severely
overstocked into a 30G tank, I kind of presumed you were a troll
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internet_troll. If you are truly interested in
saving your fish from the coming tragedy, then I apologize for implying you
are were a troll.

Start off by reading my blog article on stocking a tank.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Then do research on http://fish.mongabay.com for each of your fish and read
the profiles on each of them to see where you have serious compatibility
issues and serious overstocking issues.

Then we can work on solving any other problems that come up with your tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kiran S. Rangdalae
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: Am new to this Group

Hi Jenny... What is a troll fish... Am new to this hobby.
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:
> Do you have any troll fish?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kiran
Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 2:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Am new to this Group

Hello all..

I am Kiran from India... am new to this group and also for fish keeping...
Just started this hobby just a month ago... and now this hobby is driving me
crazy and am in love with it. I have a 30 gallon tank with 3 big sharks, 4
small sharks, 2 carps, 2 gold fishes, few Red and black Zebra danios and of
course few male guppies... My tank would have been incomplete without
guppies and zebras.

I had two big female guppies, which they would have delivered frys in a
couple of days, but they are dead now... I really dont know the reason why.
To save the frys I moved them to a seperate bowl, but found them dead. Can
anyone tell me the reason and more on Guppies breeding.

Thanks friends... Hope I will earn lots of friends from this group.
Love
Kiran

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.10/875 - Release Date: 6/27/2007
9:08 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23155 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
I hope they are lucky. :) I am going to do my best. There
may be more hidden in the big tank. I got cross-eyed
looking for them and stopped... They're so little.

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Kiran S. Rangdalae
Sent: Thu 6/28/2007 1:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Molly fry



Congrats Staci... You got lucky 8s with you... Of
course i ment your new mollies... Actually your adult
molly would have dropped more... But only there 8s
survived... They are lucky right?
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> >
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I noticed when doing a water change this weekend
that I have molly fry.
> I have found 8. I removed them from the big tank and
have placed them
> in a 2 gallon tank with UGF. I got some liquid fry
food and a weekend
> feeder to feed them. The guy at the store said they
could just nibble
> on the feeder as needed. I also put a couple of the
silk plants in there
> for them to hide in. The plants have algae and I
notice them eating at
> that also. Any suggestions on what else I can do for
them or if I need
> to change something? My son and I are really having
fun with them.
> He is going to get hooked just like Mommy. Petsmart
is his favorite
> store. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
>

__________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz <http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23156 From: Allie Forst Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
That makes me very happy to hear. I am an emplyee for petsmart and am in charge of the fish department. only we call it specialty. you did everything absolutely right. im excited for you its always fun to have babies.

"Kiran S. Rangdalae" <coolkiran@...> wrote: Congrats Staci... You got lucky 8s with you... Of
course i ment your new mollies... Actually your adult
molly would have dropped more... But only there 8s
survived... They are lucky right?
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <t-swatek@...>
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I noticed when doing a water change this weekend
that I have molly fry.
> I have found 8. I removed them from the big tank and
have placed them
> in a 2 gallon tank with UGF. I got some liquid fry
food and a weekend
> feeder to feed them. The guy at the store said they
could just nibble
> on the feeder as needed. I also put a couple of the
silk plants in there
> for them to hide in. The plants have algae and I
notice them eating at
> that also. Any suggestions on what else I can do for
them or if I need
> to change something? My son and I are really having
fun with them.
> He is going to get hooked just like Mommy. Petsmart
is his favorite
> store. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
>

__________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz





---------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23157 From: EAR Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
I discovered my fry swimming inside the Romaine lettuce leave. They fed on he flake food. Great fun!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23158 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 6/28/2007
Subject: Re: Am new to this Group
Hello Joe,

Thanks for the reply. I also knew that my tank was over crowded. I was new to this hobby and purchased the fishes which looked cool to my eyes. Now I realise its a mistake.

Am crazy for zebra danios and I love those a lot.

Regarding my guppy death... It was not the frys which were dead, but the adult female guppy was dead. I felt that this guppy would deliver in 2 to 3 days and to save the frys, I transferred the female guppy to a seperate bowl. but the very next day, I found the guppy dead. I really dont know why. This is the problem.

Please let me know what may be the cause for this as I want to avoid death of any fishes I have.

Thanks Joe

Regards

Kiran

joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
Hello Kiran,

It sounds like an awful lot of fish for a 30 gallon tank. If the female guppies were in the tank when they dropped the fry, the other fish may have been after them as they were dropping. That may have killed them. Why the fry died after you moved them to the bowl is another mystery. It depends on a lot of things, none of which you give any specifics.

If you can give more details, I am sure the group will try to help you. One thing I know for certain is that your 30 gallon tank is too crowded.

Good luck.

joe t

---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23159 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
All eight are still alive this morning. They are piggy little things
too. They come right over when I put the liquid food in. It's
pretty neat watching them. I am leaving the light on all the time
since the tank is too small for a heater. They are in a corner
and pretty secluded so I think they still get to sleep as much
as needed. Thanks for the help...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Allie Forst
Sent: Thu 6/28/2007 10:02 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Molly fry




That makes me very happy to hear. I am an emplyee for petsmart and am in charge of the fish department. only we call it specialty. you did everything absolutely right. im excited for you its always fun to have babies.

"Kiran S. Rangdalae" <coolkiran@... <mailto:coolkiran%40yahoo.com> > wrote: Congrats Staci... You got lucky 8s with you... Of
course i ment your new mollies... Actually your adult
molly would have dropped more... But only there 8s
survived... They are lucky right?
Thanks
Kiran
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <t-swatek@... <mailto:t-swatek%40ti.com> >
wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I noticed when doing a water change this weekend
that I have molly fry.
> I have found 8. I removed them from the big tank and
have placed them
> in a 2 gallon tank with UGF. I got some liquid fry
food and a weekend
> feeder to feed them. The guy at the store said they
could just nibble
> on the feeder as needed. I also put a couple of the
silk plants in there
> for them to hide in. The plants have algae and I
notice them eating at
> that also. Any suggestions on what else I can do for
them or if I need
> to change something? My son and I are really having
fun with them.
> He is going to get hooked just like Mommy. Petsmart
is his favorite
> store. :)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]
>

__________________________________________________________
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz <http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz>




---------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23160 From: Jessica Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
Since they were fine in the display tank, then I would look at the
conditionsof the "breeding" tank. Take some water samples of that
and test the chemicals. That would be my first step.

Like everyone esle has been saying, your display tank is severly
overstocked. It may look good, but you won't be able to keep fish
this way and restocking all the time will cost big.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kiran S. Rangdalae"
<coolkiran@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Joe,
>
> Thanks for the reply. I also knew that my tank was over crowded.
I was new to this hobby and purchased the fishes which looked cool
to my eyes. Now I realise its a mistake.
>
> Am crazy for zebra danios and I love those a lot.
>
> Regarding my guppy death... It was not the frys which were dead,
but the adult female guppy was dead. I felt that this guppy would
deliver in 2 to 3 days and to save the frys, I transferred the
female guppy to a seperate bowl. but the very next day, I found the
guppy dead. I really dont know why. This is the problem.
>
> Please let me know what may be the cause for this as I want to
avoid death of any fishes I have.
>
> Thanks Joe
>
> Regards
>
> Kiran
>
> joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
> Hello Kiran,
>
> It sounds like an awful lot of fish for a 30 gallon tank. If the
female guppies were in the tank when they dropped the fry, the other
fish may have been after them as they were dropping. That may have
killed them. Why the fry died after you moved them to the bowl is
another mystery. It depends on a lot of things, none of which you
give any specifics.
>
> If you can give more details, I am sure the group will try to help
you. One thing I know for certain is that your 30 gallon tank is too
crowded.
>
> Good luck.
>
> joe t
>
> ---------------------------------
> Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
user panel and lay it on us.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo!
Travel.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23161 From: Alex See Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
if u want then grow faster tune the water is warm like 82 degree and combine
w/ increase food & nutrient. they will grow much faster. can do a little
experiement to show ur son some biology of growth. if and only if this is
moral :P
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23162 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Make sure to do regular water changes and feed a good food actually
a good variety because no one food is complete. On mollies make sure
to add about one teaspoon of salt per gallon (as long as there are
no fish in the tank that cannot tolerate salt).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Alex See" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> if u want then grow faster tune the water is warm like 82 degree
and combine
> w/ increase food & nutrient. they will grow much faster. can
do a little
> experiement to show ur son some biology of growth. if and only if
this is
> moral :P
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23163 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Why Salt. I thought that was a misnomer for mollys. A lot of them come from
pure fresh water and a few are brackish. Though at least one comes from
acidic waters. I could understand maybe using a rift lake salt that is used for
cichlids for hardness for R.O. water. Please clarify.

Joey.

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23164 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
I do add salt to all my tanks. So far they are doing well. I put
the fry in water from the big tank. Then, when I accidentally
sprayed the liquid food all over ( the hole was plugged) I did
a big water change adding back in water from the big tank. I
figure it's where they were born so it should be ok. I'll add the
fry to my list of weekly water changes. I do all the other tanks
once a week also. So far, so good.... :)

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of dreammaker2623
Sent: Fri 6/29/2007 4:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Molly fry



Make sure to do regular water changes and feed a good food actually
a good variety because no one food is complete. On mollies make sure
to add about one teaspoon of salt per gallon (as long as there are
no fish in the tank that cannot tolerate salt).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Alex See" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> if u want then grow faster tune the water is warm like 82 degree
and combine
> w/ increase food & nutrient. they will grow much faster. can
do a little
> experiement to show ur son some biology of growth. if and only if
this is
> moral :P
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23165 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
I'm anxious to see what colors they end up being. Mom is
white. I don't know who the dad is. I only know the mom
because I saw her drop a couple. I have another balloon
belly one that is very swollen. I may end up with more fry.
I don't know what I'll do with all of them if they survive. I
guess I'll get another tank. That'll make 11.... Poor hubby.
LOL

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Alex See
Sent: Fri 6/29/2007 3:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Molly fry



if u want then grow faster tune the water is warm like 82 degree and combine
w/ increase food & nutrient. they will grow much faster. can do a little
experiement to show ur son some biology of growth. if and only if this is
moral :P





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23166 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
We are talking of commonly kept mollies and not the rare ones. Most
mollies (commonly kept ones that is) can tolerate salt and the sail
fin mollies will not get nearly as large a sail fin with out the
addition of salt in their water. In fact sail fin mollies have been
captured miles out in the ocean.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
> Why Salt. I thought that was a misnomer for mollys. A lot of them
come from
> pure fresh water and a few are brackish. Though at least one
comes from
> acidic waters. I could understand maybe using a rift lake salt
that is used for
> cichlids for hardness for R.O. water. Please clarify.
>
> Joey.
>
> _www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23167 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
In a message dated 6/29/2007 7:27:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dreammaker2623@... writes:

Most
mollies (commonly kept ones that is) can tolerate salt and the sail
fin mollies will not get nearly as large a sail fin with out the
addition of salt in their water.

Please understand I am not trying to argue. I just thought I remember
something I thing in a recent TFH that was mentioning that although some mollies
can be from brackish water a lot of them can be found in land locked lakes or
pools of water. Even in the same species. So while they can tolerate salt in
the water you don't need salt. I know the article was out around the time of
the ALA convention. Maybe I miss understood the article.

Joey


_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23168 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
I am not trying to argue either. I just think that mollies (even
those that come from freshwater and of the common species) can be
better off with salt in their tank. I think that many of the
shimmies that mollies get would not happen if there was an addition
of salt in the tank. If you have hard water then you might not need
the salt but for those of us that have soft and acid water ate
addition of salt will be beneficial.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
>
>
> In a message dated 6/29/2007 7:27:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> dreammaker2623@... writes:
>
> Most
> mollies (commonly kept ones that is) can tolerate salt and the
sail
> fin mollies will not get nearly as large a sail fin with out the
> addition of salt in their water.
>
> Please understand I am not trying to argue. I just thought I
remember
> something I thing in a recent TFH that was mentioning that
although some mollies
> can be from brackish water a lot of them can be found in land
locked lakes or
> pools of water. Even in the same species. So while they can
tolerate salt in
> the water you don't need salt. I know the article was out around
the time of
> the ALA convention. Maybe I miss understood the article.
>
> Joey
>
>
> _www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23169 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 6/29/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
In a message dated 6/29/2007 7:49:18 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
dreammaker2623@... writes:

soft and acid water


That must be nice.. My tap is hard. And most of the fish I keep are soft
water species. Thanks for the clarification. I appreciate it.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23170 From: Steve Szabo Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Re: Molly fry
Joe,

You are pretty much correct. With a little research (very little,
actually), there are two listings of fish presented below that could be
called mollies. The lists are not exhaustive, but are, at least, a good
sampling. The sharp eyed will see that they are all of the same genus
that contains the guppy, another fish that can definitely benefit fro
the addition of some slat to the water. The first listing is of fish
that can be found in brackish water, the send, is only found in
freshwater.

Poecilia formosa
Poecilia latipinna
Poecilia mexicana
Poecilia sphenops
Poecilia orri
Poecilia velifera

Poecilia butleri
Poecilia catemaconis
Poecilia caucana
Poecilia chica
Poecilia elegans
Poecilia hispaniolana
Poecilia latipunctata
Poecilia maylandi
Poecilia petenensis
Poecilia sulphuraria
Poecilia teresae

It is interesting to note that the fish listed in the second group were
shown to come from waters with a pH of 7.0 or above, when pH was listed.
Also, looking at the two groups, note that all commonly available
mollies are from the first grouping, the ones that can be found in
brackish water. They are either variations of one of the species listed
or hybrids of two or more of the species.

One should note that most mollies available in your LFS are bred and
raised in freshwater.

If your water has a pH of less than 7.0, you should probably add a small
amount of salt to the water. Marine salt would be most beneficial, but
any salt will do. At the very least, this will increase the hardness of
the water. (It is possible to have hard water and a low pH, the two do
not go hand in hand, though quite often that appears to be the
case--high pH equals hard water, low pH equals soft water.)

All this simply points out, once again, that you should know your fish
before bringing them home to keep.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 6:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Molly fry

Why Salt. I thought that was a misnomer for mollys. A lot of them come
from
pure fresh water and a few are brackish. Though at least one comes from

acidic waters. I could understand maybe using a rift lake salt that is
used for
cichlids for hardness for R.O. water. Please clarify.

Joey.

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23171 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Am new to this Group
can you provide us with more details on the water tests? You should have a basic test kit that includes ammonia, nitrate, nitrate, and pH at least. A full set would be better if you plan on breeding fish. Do you have a smaller tank for the fry and to quarantine new fish? Good luck, Gail


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 10 am-8 pm CST


---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23172 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Re: what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby bristlenose catfi
My dwarf puffers love the snails. I don't know if they'll
bother the baby catfish or not. I would expect so since
they are aggressive. I heard you could put lettuce in
a coke bottle and they will make there way in there
and can be removed that way. I don't know if it helps
you or not but that's I all know of. Good luck...

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of chris nuttall
Sent: Tue 6/26/2007 4:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby bristlenose catfish?



Hello everyone,

I have a pair of bristlenose catfish, every now and then they have a
load of babies. I transfer the babies to a 25 litre tank where they
grow large enough to go to the LFS.

Now to the point......
The 25 litre tank is infested with snails, they range in size from
1mm (newly born) to 12 mm (adult). They got there from my main tank
where their numbers are kept low by three clown loaches.

The loaches are the reason i have to move the baby catfish out of
the main tank (they hink that they are just delicious!)

I apreciate that i am over-feeding the baby catfish in the nursary
tank, this is intentional so they grow as quickly as possible, and i
perform frequent waterchanges to remove the excess nitrates.

I could manually remove the snails but this is not really practical
(there must be several hundred buried in the gravel (which is 12mm
deep and 2mm diameter by the way)

I could syphon them out but i fear i may also remove small baby fish.

I could kill them with copper but i dont want to poison the catfish.

I like the idea of adding a figure 8 puffer maybe, or something else
that will eat the snails....but it goes without saying that i dont
want anything that will eat the baby catfish (they are very small to
start with)

Has anyone got a suggestion of a snail-busting fish i could add?
(one that doesn't like the taste of catfish would be good!)

Thanks

Chris






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23173 From: iowakoi Date: 6/30/2007
Subject: Warning to dog owners that let their dogs swim in ponds and lakes
PERMISSION TO CROSSPOST

Bob Tatus wrote:

It is with a very heavy heart that I write this and I apologize for its
length. Please, PLEASE pass this around.

On Monday, June 25, 2007 I took my healthy 9 month old Border Collie
Vita
swimming at approximately 6:30 p.m. Vita and two other BC's spent about
an
hour and a half diving off the dock, chasing the Water Kong, and running
around.

The temperature that day was just over 90 degrees, but none of the dogs
looked particularly winded or hot.

Vita emerged from the water and looked as if she was going to vomit. She
threw up lake water three times. I wasn't particularly concerned as she
took
in a lot of water from retrieving and swimming so much and had seen
other
dogs do that in the past without complications.

After the third time throwing up, she lay down and closed her eyes. Her
tongue was hanging out of her mouth and I began to suspect she may have
heat
stroke. I immediately placed ice on her stomach and checked her gums.
They were pink. I took her temperature which was 101.9, still normal. I
then called my Vet who said these conditions did not indicate heat
stroke
and said I needed to get emergency medical attention right away.

Vita was not responsive and when I picked her up to put her in the car
she
was limp and her eyes were still closed. Her breathing was slow and her
heart was racing. I arrived at the emergency clinic only a half hour
from
the time she showed signs of distress. The ER Vet asked me what sorts of
things Vita had been doing all day. I explained that she was crated as
I was gone for the latter part of the afternoon and that upon coming
home, the only other place she went was to the lake.

Vita's eyes were fixed and dilated and the Vet suggested there was
already
brain damage. After administering an IV and oxygen, the Vet called me in
and
said Vita was not responding and that it appeared that she was suffering
from some kind of toxic poisoning. Her heart rate was 200. He mentioned
that
he had recently seen a couple of dogs who died from Blue
Green Algae Toxicity. I told him that the lake had what appeared to be
algae blooms on the surface of the water. Neither of the other two dogs
showed any of the signs that Vita had and that neither dog took in as
much
water as Vita apparently did. We decided to put her on a ventilator
overnight and give her a "chance" to pull through.

When I got home I did a Dogpile.com search of "Blue Green Algae Toxicity
in Dogs" and found some very disturbing information.

-Blooms can occur at any time, but most often occur in late summer or
early fall. They can occur in marine, estuarine, and fresh waters, but
the
blooms of greatest concern are the ones that occur in fresh water, such
as
drinking water reservoirs or recreational waters.

-Some cyan bacterial blooms can look like foam, scum, or mats on the
surface of fresh water lakes and ponds. The blooms can be blue, bright
green, brown, or red and may look like paint floating on the water. Some
blooms may not affect the appearance of the water. As algae in a cyan
bacterial bloom die, the water may smell bad.

-Some cyan bacteria that can form CyanoHABs (Harmful Algal Blooms)
produce
toxins that are among the most powerful natural poisons known. These
toxins have no known antidotes.

-Swallowing water that has cyan bacterial toxins in it can cause acute,
severe gastroenteritis (including diarrhea and vomiting).

-Liver toxicity (i.e., increased serum levels of liver enzymes).
Symptoms
of liver poisoning may takes hours or days to show up in people or
animals.
Symptoms include abdominal pain, diarrhea, and vomiting.

-Kidney toxicity.

-Neurotoxicity. These symptoms can appear within 15 to 20 minutes after
exposure. In dogs, the neurotoxins can cause salivation and other
neurologic
symptoms, including weakness, staggering, difficulty breathing,
convulsions,
and death. People may have numb lips, tingling fingers and toes, or they
may
feel dizzy.

Vita had indeed exhibited salivation and signs of weakness, staggering,
difficulty breathing and vomiting.

At 7:00 a.m. on Tuesday, June 26, 2007 I called the Vet and was told
that
they took Vita off the ventilator a couple of times during the night and
that she was not breathing on her own. I told him to discontinue the
procedure and to let her go.

I called the DNR here in Michigan and was told that Blue Green Algae
didn't usually appear this time of year and I told the agent that the
conditions were that of late summer in Michigan, very hot for the last
two
days and reminded him that Blue Green Algae can appear at any time. He
told
me not to panic or to alarm other people. I told him that had someone
else
panicked, we wouldn't be having this conversation right now.

Later that morning I found out from a neighbor that her two young boys
had
vomiting, diarrhea and stomach cramps last week and her Doctor suggested
she
bring in a water sample. I do not know if she did or not.

I also talked to a woman from a neighboring county whose neighbor's dog
ingested a lot of water from a pond and died suddenly a couple weeks
ago..

As of this writing, Wednesday, June 27th, I have not heard anything from
Michigan State where I took Vita for a necropsy and toxoligical panel.

For the time being, I would strongly suggest you watch your dogs when
swimming in small lakes and ponds as the potential threat of toxic
poisoning
from Blue Green Algae is prevalent. Had I known that algae of any kind
was
toxic, you can be sure my dogs wouldn't be swimming anywhere and that
Vita,
whose name quite ironically meant "life" in Latin, would be alive today.

Missing you more than you can imagine.
May you rest in peace, Red Top Vita
09/05/06 - 06/26/07


Posted by Gail and princess (border collie)
Richdeer3 Pond Supplies
Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com>
richdeer3@... <mailto:richdeer3@...>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23174 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby br
Then why try and get rid of them? They provide a tasty and very nutritious
source of food for your fish(plus they help to clean your tank)...if I were
you, I would encourage them. You can also swap out some of the gravel from
the nursery tank to the main tank to intro the snails into the tank for your
fish to eat. A lot of American aquarists get this idea that things like
snails and algae are bad...but they are not. They are a natural part of the
environment and both provide food for the fish.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby
bristlenose catfish?



My dwarf puffers love the snails. I don't know if they'll
bother the baby catfish or not. I would expect so since
they are aggressive. I heard you could put lettuce in
a coke bottle and they will make there way in there
and can be removed that way. I don't know if it helps
you or not but that's I all know of. Good luck...

Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
behalf of chris nuttall
Sent: Tue 6/26/2007 4:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby
bristlenose catfish?

Hello everyone,

I have a pair of bristlenose catfish, every now and then they have a
load of babies. I transfer the babies to a 25 litre tank where they
grow large enough to go to the LFS.

Now to the point......
The 25 litre tank is infested with snails, they range in size from
1mm (newly born) to 12 mm (adult). They got there from my main tank
where their numbers are kept low by three clown loaches.

The loaches are the reason i have to move the baby catfish out of
the main tank (they hink that they are just delicious!)

I apreciate that i am over-feeding the baby catfish in the nursary
tank, this is intentional so they grow as quickly as possible, and i
perform frequent waterchanges to remove the excess nitrates.

I could manually remove the snails but this is not really practical
(there must be several hundred buried in the gravel (which is 12mm
deep and 2mm diameter by the way)

I could syphon them out but i fear i may also remove small baby fish.

I could kill them with copper but i dont want to poison the catfish.

I like the idea of adding a figure 8 puffer maybe, or something else
that will eat the snails....but it goes without saying that i dont
want anything that will eat the baby catfish (they are very small to
start with)

Has anyone got a suggestion of a snail-busting fish i could add?
(one that doesn't like the taste of catfish would be good!)

Thanks

Chris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23175 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Aureatus might have babies :-D
The other night I saw my male and female Aureatus cichlids doing only what
I could describe as a mating dance. He started to get very territorial with
the other cichlids and her chin has dropped a bit lower than usual. They
are mouth breeders, I am assuming this is because she has fertilized eggs in
her mouth. I am pretty excited...that would be very cool if they had babies
:-D



Eric



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23176 From: harry perry Date: 7/1/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
They rid the tank of uneaten food. If you see them at the top during the day it's time to test your water. I add them to my breeding tanks to help keep the water clean and their waste helps the infusoria supply that the fry feed on.

Harry

Eric Roberts <woad@...> wrote: Then why try and get rid of them? They provide a tasty and very nutritious
source of food for your fish(plus they help to clean your tank)...if I were
you, I would encourage them. You can also swap out some of the gravel from
the nursery tank to the main tank to intro the snails into the tank for your
fish to eat. A lot of American aquarists get this idea that things like
snails and algae are bad...but they are not. They are a natural part of the
environment and both provide food for the fish.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 4:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby
bristlenose catfish?

My dwarf puffers love the snails. I don't know if they'll
bother the baby catfish or not. I would expect so since
they are aggressive. I heard you could put lettuce in
a coke bottle and they will make there way in there
and can be removed that way. I don't know if it helps
you or not but that's I all know of. Good luck...

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><

________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
behalf of chris nuttall
Sent: Tue 6/26/2007 4:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby
bristlenose catfish?

Hello everyone,

I have a pair of bristlenose catfish, every now and then they have a
load of babies. I transfer the babies to a 25 litre tank where they
grow large enough to go to the LFS.

Now to the point......
The 25 litre tank is infested with snails, they range in size from
1mm (newly born) to 12 mm (adult). They got there from my main tank
where their numbers are kept low by three clown loaches.

The loaches are the reason i have to move the baby catfish out of
the main tank (they hink that they are just delicious!)

I apreciate that i am over-feeding the baby catfish in the nursary
tank, this is intentional so they grow as quickly as possible, and i
perform frequent waterchanges to remove the excess nitrates.

I could manually remove the snails but this is not really practical
(there must be several hundred buried in the gravel (which is 12mm
deep and 2mm diameter by the way)

I could syphon them out but i fear i may also remove small baby fish.

I could kill them with copper but i dont want to poison the catfish.

I like the idea of adding a figure 8 puffer maybe, or something else
that will eat the snails....but it goes without saying that i dont
want anything that will eat the baby catfish (they are very small to
start with)

Has anyone got a suggestion of a snail-busting fish i could add?
(one that doesn't like the taste of catfish would be good!)

Thanks

Chris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23177 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
I am not after snail-eradication, just a little control over their
numbers would be good, i have only 7 ancistrus fry at present, and
probably - i don't know - 2000 snails in a 20 litre tank. Quite
literally the gravel is alive with them.
I apreciate that they eat un-eaten food, but so do ancistrus and it is
them i want to feed, not the snails.

Like i said, i have snails in the main tank, and the clown loaches
keep them in check, the snails burrow in the gravel etc etc i know
they are good in moderation, the question is how do i stop them takng
over the tank whilst trying to feed a small number of small bottom
feeding fish?

I am intersted in the dwarf puffer idea, i had three of them a few
years ago. They were very peaceful and very stupid, so much so that
they would miss a blood worm right in front of their face. They never
touched a single snail that i knew about. But i wonder if there are
more than one variety? i have heard people say they are agressive and
will kill larger fish,(and eat snails) mine never did either.
would a figure 8 puffer eat the babies????


Any sensible ideas?


Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23178 From: Alex See Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
Chris, i would love to see a pic of ur tank!!!
u may have to move yr fry if u are using the puffers. I love the puffer tho.

actually, my friend is taking care of my tank when i am traveling. he is
paranoid about the snail would harm the plants. he is using some kinda of
medicine. what is the side effects for the ed?
Alex

On 7/2/07, chris nuttall <c.nuttall@...> wrote:
>
> I am not after snail-eradication, just a little control over their
> numbers would be good, i have only 7 ancistrus fry at present, and
> probably - i don't know - 2000 snails in a 20 litre tank. Quite
> literally the gravel is alive with them.
> I apreciate that they eat un-eaten food, but so do ancistrus and it is
> them i want to feed, not the snails.
>
> Like i said, i have snails in the main tank, and the clown loaches
> keep them in check, the snails burrow in the gravel etc etc i know
> they are good in moderation, the question is how do i stop them takng
> over the tank whilst trying to feed a small number of small bottom
> feeding fish?
>
> I am intersted in the dwarf puffer idea, i had three of them a few
> years ago. They were very peaceful and very stupid, so much so that
> they would miss a blood worm right in front of their face. They never
> touched a single snail that i knew about. But i wonder if there are
> more than one variety? i have heard people say they are agressive and
> will kill larger fish,(and eat snails) mine never did either.
> would a figure 8 puffer eat the babies????
>
> Any sensible ideas?
>
> Chris
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23179 From: harry perry Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical./Try this.
Rubber band some lettuce leaves to a small plate and place in your tank.

Also my snails come to the top at night then I just scoop them out.

chris nuttall <c.nuttall@...> wrote: I am not after snail-eradication, just a little control over their
numbers would be good, i have only 7 ancistrus fry at present, and
probably - i don't know - 2000 snails in a 20 litre tank. Quite
literally the gravel is alive with them.
I apreciate that they eat un-eaten food, but so do ancistrus and it is
them i want to feed, not the snails.

Like i said, i have snails in the main tank, and the clown loaches
keep them in check, the snails burrow in the gravel etc etc i know
they are good in moderation, the question is how do i stop them takng
over the tank whilst trying to feed a small number of small bottom
feeding fish?

I am intersted in the dwarf puffer idea, i had three of them a few
years ago. They were very peaceful and very stupid, so much so that
they would miss a blood worm right in front of their face. They never
touched a single snail that i knew about. But i wonder if there are
more than one variety? i have heard people say they are agressive and
will kill larger fish,(and eat snails) mine never did either.
would a figure 8 puffer eat the babies????

Any sensible ideas?

Chris






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---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23180 From: Allie Forst Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
I have a 20gal with 8 dwarf puffers in them and they are stupid. never had any luck with them keeping down snails. but mine were very aggressive. even when i had one in there they would eat the fins off my bottom feeders and my rubberlipped.
I also have a 55gal with a leopard puffer and recently had my figure 8 pass after three years. and they do seem to keep down the snail population. so thats probably what they were thinking of when they told you the puffers would eat them. large goldfish will eat them too. thats what we use at my work in the tanks with a large snail population.

allie

Alex See <kfsee0213@...> wrote: Chris, i would love to see a pic of ur tank!!!
u may have to move yr fry if u are using the puffers. I love the puffer tho.

actually, my friend is taking care of my tank when i am traveling. he is
paranoid about the snail would harm the plants. he is using some kinda of
medicine. what is the side effects for the ed?
Alex

On 7/2/07, chris nuttall <c.nuttall@...> wrote:
>
> I am not after snail-eradication, just a little control over their
> numbers would be good, i have only 7 ancistrus fry at present, and
> probably - i don't know - 2000 snails in a 20 litre tank. Quite
> literally the gravel is alive with them.
> I apreciate that they eat un-eaten food, but so do ancistrus and it is
> them i want to feed, not the snails.
>
> Like i said, i have snails in the main tank, and the clown loaches
> keep them in check, the snails burrow in the gravel etc etc i know
> they are good in moderation, the question is how do i stop them takng
> over the tank whilst trying to feed a small number of small bottom
> feeding fish?
>
> I am intersted in the dwarf puffer idea, i had three of them a few
> years ago. They were very peaceful and very stupid, so much so that
> they would miss a blood worm right in front of their face. They never
> touched a single snail that i knew about. But i wonder if there are
> more than one variety? i have heard people say they are agressive and
> will kill larger fish,(and eat snails) mine never did either.
> would a figure 8 puffer eat the babies????
>
> Any sensible ideas?
>
> Chris
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23181 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/2/2007
Subject: Zebra danios
Hello Everybody

I got a doubt.I tried in all web pages to find difference between male and a female zebra danio, but none gave me exact answers. Can anybody help me out on this. Coz I got a zebra danio whos stomach is little big. I think it is going to lay eggs, but it needs a male for it to spawn. I couldnt exactly differentiate which is male and which is female. I have kept the zebra danio in a seperate tank with a slender-looking zebra danio (I felt it should be male) for the past 2 days and nothing happened.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Regards

Kiran


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23182 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
There is no real visual differentiation between male and female with
these fish. Yu need to get at least 6 of them to have a good chance of
getting a male and a female. Be aware that a large belly could have
other causes other than filling with eggs. A slimmer fish does not
necessarily mean you have a male. At least some of those sites you have
visited should have explained how to breed the zebras.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kiran S. Rangdalae
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 2:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Zebra danios

Hello Everybody

I got a doubt.I tried in all web pages to find difference between male
and a female zebra danio, but none gave me exact answers. Can anybody
help me out on this. Coz I got a zebra danio whos stomach is little
big. I think it is going to lay eggs, but it needs a male for it to
spawn. I couldnt exactly differentiate which is male and which is
female. I have kept the zebra danio in a seperate tank with a
slender-looking zebra danio (I felt it should be male) for the past 2
days and nothing happened.

Thanks a lot in advance.

Regards

Kiran
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23183 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical./Try this.
hmmmmmmm.....


thanks for the info

sounds like any puffer worth his salt will probably eat the bristle
nose fry too.

Does anyone know if banjo catfish really do eat snails or not?
i have heared that they are supposed to but actually they dont ( a bit
like dwarf puffers)


chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23184 From: jett07002 Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kiran S. Rangdalae"
<coolkiran@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everybody
>
> I got a doubt.I tried in all web pages to find difference between
male and a female zebra danio, but none gave me exact answers. Can
anybody help me out on this. Coz I got a zebra danio whos stomach is
little big. I think it is going to lay eggs, but it needs a male for
it to spawn. I couldnt exactly differentiate which is male and which
is female. I have kept the zebra danio in a seperate tank with a
slender-looking zebra danio (I felt it should be male) for the past 2
days and nothing happened.
>
> Thanks a lot in advance.
>
> Regards
>
> Kiran
>
> ------->>Hello Kiran.
Steve Szabo has already answered your question about the zebra danio
sexes so I will not echo. This is indeed a very pretty fish and they
do thrive and look much better in a school (or shoal, if you prefer.)
Their mating process is very interesting and I am sure you can get
good information from a site on their mating. I remember, however,
you stated you had a 30 gal tank with a lot of fish in it. The baby
zebras will be very small and will never survive being in a community
tank. If you want to try for the thrill and curiosity of it, fine.
If you intend to let them grow out, then you definitely need another
tank, at least 10 gallons for this purpose is what I would suggest.
Some may suggest even a 5 gallon is big enough, but it usually
happens, in my experience, that the 5 gallon tank will be too small to
do anything else with when the fry grow out.

Good luck.
Joe t


> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23185 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
I thought ZD's were easy to sex.
http://www.fishforever.co.uk/zebradanios.html The picture on that page
shows the males are thinner and have the yellowish/goldish tint to their
body where the females are fatter and have more of a off-white/silver tint
to the body... both of course have the black stripes. The females fins tend
to be a little longer also. This page also has pics of male and female with
female being the top pic.
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/cyprinids/zebradanio.htm
l

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23186 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
I haven't read all the replies to the OP, so maybe someone already
covered this. My platy tank was inundated with rams horn snails,
probably introduced with some live plants. Since I hate to kill
anything, I sought advice on another board where it was suggested that
I was overfeeding the fish and that if I cut back on fish food, it
would reduce the snail population. After only a week or so, the snail
population was greatly reduced. Makes sense -- if the snails are
feeding on the fish food, then reducing the amount of food will result
in fewer snails. Another aspect: if the snails aren't native to the
U. S., one shouldn't get rid of them by dumping them out-of-doors as
they could cause problems for various native species.

Shirl

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
> They rid the tank of uneaten food. If you see them at the top during
the day it's time to test your water. I add them to my breeding tanks
to help keep the water clean and their waste helps the infusoria
supply that the fry feed on.
>
> Harry
>
> Eric Roberts <woad@...> wrote: Then
why try and get rid of them? They provide a tasty and very nutritious
> source of food for your fish(plus they help to clean your
tank)...if I were
> you, I would encourage them. You can also swap out some of the
gravel from
> the nursery tank to the main tank to intro the snails into the tank
for your
> fish to eat. A lot of American aquarists get this idea that things
like
> snails and algae are bad...but they are not. They are a natural
part of the
> environment and both provide food for the fish.
>
> Eric
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 4:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not
baby
> bristlenose catfish?
>
> My dwarf puffers love the snails. I don't know if they'll
> bother the baby catfish or not. I would expect so since
> they are aggressive. I heard you could put lettuce in
> a coke bottle and they will make there way in there
> and can be removed that way. I don't know if it helps
> you or not but that's I all know of. Good luck...
>
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
> behalf of chris nuttall
> Sent: Tue 6/26/2007 4:10 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] what freshwater fish eats snails but not baby
> bristlenose catfish?
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I have a pair of bristlenose catfish, every now and then they have a
> load of babies. I transfer the babies to a 25 litre tank where they
> grow large enough to go to the LFS.
>
> Now to the point......
> The 25 litre tank is infested with snails, they range in size from
> 1mm (newly born) to 12 mm (adult). They got there from my main tank
> where their numbers are kept low by three clown loaches.
>
> The loaches are the reason i have to move the baby catfish out of
> the main tank (they hink that they are just delicious!)
>
> I apreciate that i am over-feeding the baby catfish in the nursary
> tank, this is intentional so they grow as quickly as possible, and i
> perform frequent waterchanges to remove the excess nitrates.
>
> I could manually remove the snails but this is not really practical
> (there must be several hundred buried in the gravel (which is 12mm
> deep and 2mm diameter by the way)
>
> I could syphon them out but i fear i may also remove small baby fish.
>
> I could kill them with copper but i dont want to poison the catfish.
>
> I like the idea of adding a figure 8 puffer maybe, or something else
> that will eat the snails....but it goes without saying that i dont
> want anything that will eat the baby catfish (they are very small to
> start with)
>
> Has anyone got a suggestion of a snail-busting fish i could add?
> (one that doesn't like the taste of catfish would be good!)
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on
Yahoo! TV.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23187 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: (Off Topic) ~ Happy Birthday USA! ~
Have a great 4th of July!

Visit the Home page and see the Red, White & Blue Group Colors

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife

If you have any pictures of your Red, White or Blue fish or aquariums,
upload them for a chance to be featured on the Group Photo.

Thank you for helping make this the the #1 Yahoo! Fish Group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23188 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
I've seen the background coloration on males to be that you describe for the male to a lighter shade as the females have. The striping on both sexes is a black/blue with the tendency toward the blue side. Quite often you can see the black flecks in the blue. Females appear heavier than males only when the females are coming into breeding condition.


\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2007 3:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: Zebra danios

I thought ZD's were easy to sex.
http://www.fishforever.co.uk/zebradanios.html The picture on that page
shows the males are thinner and have the yellowish/goldish tint to their
body where the females are fatter and have more of a off-white/silver tint
to the body... both of course have the black stripes. The females fins tend
to be a little longer also. This page also has pics of male and female with
female being the top pic.
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/cyprinids/zebradanio.htm
l

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23189 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/3/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Hello Joe...

Thanks a lot again.. I have already purchased another 25 gallon tank and all the red and black Zebra danios are in it along with few guppies... is that okay?

Now am eager for frys from danios, but nothings happening.

Thanks

Kiran

jett07002 <jett07002@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kiran S. Rangdalae"
<coolkiran@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everybody
>
> I got a doubt.I tried in all web pages to find difference between
male and a female zebra danio, but none gave me exact answers. Can
anybody help me out on this. Coz I got a zebra danio whos stomach is
little big. I think it is going to lay eggs, but it needs a male for
it to spawn. I couldnt exactly differentiate which is male and which
is female. I have kept the zebra danio in a seperate tank with a
slender-looking zebra danio (I felt it should be male) for the past 2
days and nothing happened.
>
> Thanks a lot in advance.
>
> Regards
>
> Kiran
>
> ------->>Hello Kiran.
Steve Szabo has already answered your question about the zebra danio
sexes so I will not echo. This is indeed a very pretty fish and they
do thrive and look much better in a school (or shoal, if you prefer.)
Their mating process is very interesting and I am sure you can get
good information from a site on their mating. I remember, however,
you stated you had a 30 gal tank with a lot of fish in it. The baby
zebras will be very small and will never survive being in a community
tank. If you want to try for the thrill and curiosity of it, fine.
If you intend to let them grow out, then you definitely need another
tank, at least 10 gallons for this purpose is what I would suggest.
Some may suggest even a 5 gallon is big enough, but it usually
happens, in my experience, that the 5 gallon tank will be too small to
do anything else with when the fry grow out.

Good luck.
Joe t

> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23190 From: Kiran S. Rangdalae Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: Zebra danios
Thanks everyone.

Got lots of informations on ZDs from you all. Hope to have fry's of ZD soon.

Thanks again.

Kiran

"Kiran S. Rangdalae" <coolkiran@...> wrote:
Hello Joe...

Thanks a lot again.. I have already purchased another 25 gallon tank and all the red and black Zebra danios are in it along with few guppies... is that okay?

Now am eager for frys from danios, but nothings happening.

Thanks

Kiran

jett07002 <jett07002@...> wrote:
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kiran S. Rangdalae"
<coolkiran@...> wrote:
>
> Hello Everybody
>
> I got a doubt.I tried in all web pages to find difference between
male and a female zebra danio, but none gave me exact answers. Can
anybody help me out on this. Coz I got a zebra danio whos stomach is
little big. I think it is going to lay eggs, but it needs a male for
it to spawn. I couldnt exactly differentiate which is male and which
is female. I have kept the zebra danio in a seperate tank with a
slender-looking zebra danio (I felt it should be male) for the past 2
days and nothing happened.
>
> Thanks a lot in advance.
>
> Regards
>
> Kiran
>
> ------->>Hello Kiran.
Steve Szabo has already answered your question about the zebra danio
sexes so I will not echo. This is indeed a very pretty fish and they
do thrive and look much better in a school (or shoal, if you prefer.)
Their mating process is very interesting and I am sure you can get
good information from a site on their mating. I remember, however,
you stated you had a 30 gal tank with a lot of fish in it. The baby
zebras will be very small and will never survive being in a community
tank. If you want to try for the thrill and curiosity of it, fine.
If you intend to let them grow out, then you definitely need another
tank, at least 10 gallons for this purpose is what I would suggest.
Some may suggest even a 5 gallon is big enough, but it usually
happens, in my experience, that the 5 gallon tank will be too small to
do anything else with when the fry grow out.

Good luck.
Joe t

> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23191 From: arindamk Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Corraline Algea Seed
Hi..can any one help..

I am unable to get Live ROcks in UAE. I made my own rocks its curing
now. I will go to sea beach to get hermit crabs and some beach sand
where I have seen tht the sand is full of worms etc.

My question is can I use some of those sand (Live??) in the aquarium
to seed some life? Secondly since I am unable to buy Live ROck here
..is there anyway I can buy COrraline Algea from some online shop. Any
other idea to seed my home made rocks(GARF Tech.) with life?

Any idea would be of great help!!!!!

Arindam
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23192 From: charger9069 Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.

I have a couple of tanks here they are:

2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )

(3)10 gallons:
1st- Guppies
2nd- Betta
3rd- Holding tank

(2) 15 gallons:
1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs

55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs

60 gallon - Demasoni Colony

What are you guys holding?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23193 From: tmoore668@charter.net Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have:

110 gallon reef tank that includes:
Naso Tang
Purple Tang
Heniocus
a few starfish
A couple maroon clowns
yellow goby
and many corals

I also have a 55 gal seahorse tank.
Todd

---- charger9069 <charger9069@...> wrote:
> Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.
>
> I have a couple of tanks here they are:
>
> 2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )
>
> (3)10 gallons:
> 1st- Guppies
> 2nd- Betta
> 3rd- Holding tank
>
> (2) 15 gallons:
> 1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
> 2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs
>
> 55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs
>
> 60 gallon - Demasoni Colony
>
> What are you guys holding?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23194 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/4/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I only have 7 tanks going and they are as follows:
55 gallon tank with a breeding pair of firemough cichlids plus about
6 of their 2 to 3 inch young, 4 clown loaches from 2 inches up to
almost 6 inches, a lonely angelfish and a few other small cichlids
and a breeding pair of moonlight gouramis.
20 gallon tank 3 cichlasoma oblongas and about another half dozen
firemouth of the same size as the young in the 55 gallon tank. 20
gallon tank: 2 pair of Guianacara sphenona.
20 gallon tank: breeding trio of angelfish, 1 male and two females
29 gallon tank: one male discus and breeding pair of angelfish, pair
of rams and pair of Bolivian rams.
10 gallon tank" golden wonder killifish breeding unknown number
hidden with plant cover.
10 gallon tank " badis badis and dwarf golden eyed cichlids, again
unknown number because of Java moss in there.
Hopefully I will get my fish room set up soon shat I can have
up to 100 tanks going.
With my MRSA and small pay from accidental disability pension I am
not able to do as much as I would like to do.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "charger9069" <charger9069@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.
>
> I have a couple of tanks here they are:
>
> 2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )
>
> (3)10 gallons:
> 1st- Guppies
> 2nd- Betta
> 3rd- Holding tank
>
> (2) 15 gallons:
> 1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
> 2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs
>
> 55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs
>
> 60 gallon - Demasoni Colony
>
> What are you guys holding?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23195 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have several tanks running right now...

5 gallon- female betta, 2 cories, 1 otto
5 gallon- male betta , 2 cories, 1 otto
5 gallon- 2 cories, 1 otto (just lost Fred last night; he was the first fish
I got, beautiful red betta with the longest fins) :(
5 gallon hex- male betta, red claw crab, yellow snail
10 gallon- male betta, 2 cories, 1 otto, 4 neons
10 gallon- 2 fruit tetras (before we knew about dyeing) 4 neons,
really pretty raphael(?) catfish
7 gallon- male betta, cory, algae eater
2 gallon- 2 dwarf puffers and snails when I can get them...
1 gallon- nursery for molly fry (all are still alive!)
56 gallon- 4 ebony tetras, 2 harlequins, 2 gouramis, 2 bala sharks, 4 mollies,
3 cories, 1 otto.

that's all for me... so says the hubby anyway. LOL


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of charger9069
Sent: Wed 7/4/2007 10:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?



Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.

I have a couple of tanks here they are:

2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )

(3)10 gallons:
1st- Guppies
2nd- Betta
3rd- Holding tank

(2) 15 gallons:
1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs

55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs

60 gallon - Demasoni Colony

What are you guys holding?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23196 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Let's see I have

55 gallon
Mollies, Swords, Platys with 4 Neons, 1 Cardinal Tetra, 3 Glo-Lights, 2 Clown Loaches, 4 plecos, 1 Blue Lobster, snails

55 gallon
Irredisent Shark, Albino Irredisent shark, African Knife fish, Snowflake Eel, Pink Convicts, 4 gold fish, albino chocolate plecos, black ghost, fiddler crabs and snails

My livebearer tank always has babies and I can never keep up with the numbers. Right now I'm having an explosion of tri-color mollies.

Keri


Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23197 From: Memrie Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Well, lets see, I have 8.

(1) 5 gal planted with snails only
(4) 10 gal (1. two platies) (2. three red wag platies) (3. who knows
how many fry guppy and platty) (4. two cory cats, five male guppies)
(1) 30 gal with mollies
(1) 90 gal with platties, guppies, ember tetras, and a pleco
(1) 55 gal with 3 goldfish

Nothing exciting but I love to watch them.

Mem
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23198 From: Memrie Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Oh, I would love to see those tri-color mollies. Where are you? I
would also love to have a couple. Oh well.

mem

>
> My livebearer tank always has babies and I can never keep up with
the numbers. Right now I'm having an explosion of tri-color mollies.
>
> Keri
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23199 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
I just bought two ramshorn snails to help with my
puffers. They love to eat them. The snails are a
breeding pair.

My puffers aren't too smart
either. They are both very aggressive. I separated
them for a time because the one fought so much.
I had to put the other one back in there though
because as soon as he got in the other tank he
started attacking the other fish. One was a cory,
one was an otto and the other a male betta. I
wasn't having that. He got put back in with the
other puffer.

So, my thoughts are they will clean
the snails out but I wouldn't put them in with any
thing else. Hope this helps...

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of chris nuttall
Sent: Mon 7/2/2007 2:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.



I am not after snail-eradication, just a little control over their
numbers would be good, i have only 7 ancistrus fry at present, and
probably - i don't know - 2000 snails in a 20 litre tank. Quite
literally the gravel is alive with them.
I apreciate that they eat un-eaten food, but so do ancistrus and it is
them i want to feed, not the snails.

Like i said, i have snails in the main tank, and the clown loaches
keep them in check, the snails burrow in the gravel etc etc i know
they are good in moderation, the question is how do i stop them takng
over the tank whilst trying to feed a small number of small bottom
feeding fish?

I am intersted in the dwarf puffer idea, i had three of them a few
years ago. They were very peaceful and very stupid, so much so that
they would miss a blood worm right in front of their face. They never
touched a single snail that i knew about. But i wonder if there are
more than one variety? i have heard people say they are agressive and
will kill larger fish,(and eat snails) mine never did either.
would a figure 8 puffer eat the babies????

Any sensible ideas?

Chris






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23200 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
Mem,

I'm in the Central Fl area. My mollies are orange, black and white. I have had several bred and produce ballon mollies and sail fin mollies in the 3 colors. It's been fun watching for the different babies.

Keri

Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Oh, I would love to see those tri-color mollies. Where are you? I
would also love to have a couple. Oh well.

mem

>
> My livebearer tank always has babies and I can never keep up with
the numbers. Right now I'm having an explosion of tri-color mollies.
>
> Keri






Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23201 From: Jessica Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Mexican Turbo Snails
I have a problem with my mexican turbo snails. I had three in my 55
gallon saltwater tank but two died and I think the third is a goner.
I just heard that MTS don't go on the glass unless there is something
wrong with the substrate or the water parameters are off. I bought
them to keep the glass and rockwork clean. What's up?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23202 From: chris nuttall Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: [Aquatic Life] Snails are benifical.
I like the hint that the snails head for the surface when the water
quality drops, they were doing it this morning, so i looked closer and
the fish were 'breathing' a little rapidly, so i changed a little
water and it's all better again - great


But i do need to control their numbers - think i may try the baited
trap idea



thanks for the help


Chris
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23203 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: Re: Mexican Turbo Snails
They dont spend much time on the substrate,sometimes they do go alone the glass at the bottom near the substrate. They spend most of their time on the rock and glass. They can live for 5+ years and get nice size.
They are not the best shippers, wait a least 1 week to buy them,from the time the store gets them in. Sometimes I have 75% DOA on a shippemt of 100+. The week ons continue to die off for about 5 days or so.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Jessica
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 2:57 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Mexican Turbo Snails


I have a problem with my mexican turbo snails. I had three in my 55
gallon saltwater tank but two died and I think the third is a goner.
I just heard that MTS don't go on the glass unless there is something
wrong with the substrate or the water parameters are off. I bought
them to keep the glass and rockwork clean. What's up?






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.14/885 - Release Date: 7/3/2007 10:02 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23204 From: jim_jan_now Date: 7/5/2007
Subject: 50 gallon fish tank and stand for sale in NJ
Hi.. have a 50 gallon fish tank and stand for sale.
Fish tank measures 37" wide x 18" deep x 19" length.
It is very solid tank and furntiture like stand. The
glass is thick and sturdy. Got new tank and moving
so want to sell it. Tank is in central NJ and price
is firm $150 which I think is great bargin.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23205 From: Jannine Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have 4 tanks currently set up in my house.

1 gal - 1 Male Betta
1 gal - 1 Female Betta
10 gal - 2 silver tip tetras, 1 otto, 1 dwarf platy, 5 danios
29 gal - 1 plecostamus, 4 giant danios, 5 tiger barbs

Hoping for more tanks in the future.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23206 From: whjordan83 Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have seven tanks currently running.

Tank #1: 29 Gallon (Established 7 years)
- 1 Angelfish
- 2 Buenos Aires Tetras
- 4 Black Neon Tetras
- 4 Headlite-Tailite Tetras
- 3 Columbian Tetras
- 3 Clown Loaches
- 1 Upside-down Catfish
- 1 Striped Raphel Catfish

Tank #2: 37 Gallon (Established 2 years)
- 1 Senegal Bichir
- 2 Synodontis spp.

Tank #3: 29 Gallon (Estalished 2 years)
- 3 Black Ghost Knifes (mated pair, I have one offspring left from
their first clutch)
- 1 Honey Gourami
- 2 Upside-down Catfish
- 3 Cory Catfish
- 7 Marbled Hatchetfish
- 3 Octo Catfish

Tank #4: 20 Gallon (Established 7 years)
- 1 Green Severum
- 3 Green Cory Catfish

Tank #5: 30 Gallon (Established 4 months)
Assorted plant tank, no fish currently

Tank #6: 37 Gallon (Established 2 years)
- 1 Green Terror (female)
- 1 Chinese Algae Eater

Tank #7: 55 Gallon (Established 5 years)
- 1 Green Terror (male)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23207 From: Patti M Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Trying to find link to post.......
Hi, it has been a while.

a few months back, there were a few posts discussing a vinyl like
plastic like material that can be purchased to put around filters,
heaters etc.

I think it could be bought at home depot or lowes?

Anyone know what I need to ask for when I go? I have a couple of dojo
loaches now and want to secure the tank well.

thanks
Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23208 From: Patti M Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Trim.....
me again. it is something to replace the trim on the back of a versa-
top or hood top........

thanks!
Patti M
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23209 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: water test after restarting the pond
Well my partner in crime bought some feeder goldfish yesterday to the pond to help seed it and bought two ogon koi (one silver and one gold). Looked good when released them last nite. Our water lily is really getting going good in the pond. More than half a dozen pads are heading for the surface.

Water test from today:
Nitrates 0
Nitrites 0
Chlorine guessing .1 (just a trace)
Total Hardness 75
Alkalinity 80
PH 7.2

Rick





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23210 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Moss wall...
Can someone tell me where to find the instructions on
making the moss wall? I bought some java moss and
would like to make a small wall in the puffer tank.

Thanks in advance,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23211 From: Jessica Date: 7/6/2007
Subject: Re: Mexican Turbo Snails
We've had ours for about 1 month. I didn't think that they stayed
on the substrate either. I think that guy was a wacko.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> They dont spend much time on the substrate,sometimes they do go
alone the glass at the bottom near the substrate. They spend most of
their time on the rock and glass. They can live for 5+ years and get
nice size.
> They are not the best shippers, wait a least 1 week to buy
them,from the time the store gets them in. Sometimes I have 75% DOA
on a shippemt of 100+. The week ons continue to die off for about 5
days or so.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jessica
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 2:57 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Mexican Turbo Snails
>
>
> I have a problem with my mexican turbo snails. I had three in my
55
> gallon saltwater tank but two died and I think the third is a
goner.
> I just heard that MTS don't go on the glass unless there is
something
> wrong with the substrate or the water parameters are off. I
bought
> them to keep the glass and rockwork clean. What's up?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.9.14/885 - Release Date:
7/3/2007 10:02 AM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23212 From: Memrie Date: 7/7/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Too bad I am in SC. Do you have any pics?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Mem,
>
> I'm in the Central Fl area. My mollies are orange, black and
white. I have had several bred and produce ballon mollies and sail fin
mollies in the 3 colors. It's been fun watching for the different
babies.
>
> Keri
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23213 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/7/2007
Subject: Re: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
No I don't have any photos right now. My camera was messed up and I have not been able to purchase another one. Maybe soon.
I also just noticed I have new babies in my tank, so maybe more mollies.

Keri


Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
Too bad I am in SC. Do you have any pics?

Mem

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> Mem,
>
> I'm in the Central Fl area. My mollies are orange, black and
white. I have had several bred and produce ballon mollies and sail fin
mollies in the 3 colors. It's been fun watching for the different
babies.
>
> Keri
>






Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23214 From: Antony Dalton Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: overflow return help needed
I am building a 150 gal. aquarium with a single overflow at one end.
The return line to the trickle filter is 1 1/2 inch. I have a U
shapped trap at the top with a strainer screwed into one end and the
down pipe on the other. The LFS reccomended drilling four holes, two
in each side of the U to prevent siphoning. The problem is that it
gurgles pretty badly. Any ideas on making it better and quieter??

Antony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23215 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Hi All,

I have decided to set up a new tank, a 20 g planted tank. Now I am
trying to decide what fish to put in it. I am debating a community
tank vs a species tank. Because it is small I am thinking species but
having trouble deciding on the species. I was thinking Swordtails or
Mollies but I have never had luck with Mollies in the past & I mean
years ago. Anybody have suggestions???

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23216 From: Pickles Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
Well, here's my suggestion...I love barb community tanks....most any type of barbs
get along well...I have kept Rosey barbs, Checkerboard barbs, Cherry barbs, Tiger
barbs, Bala shark, Tin foil barbs.(the latter too large for a small 20 gallon) ...I
am sure there are more barbs that I cant think right now...even a small school of
Botias for the bottom would be nice in a barb tank...I like them because they all
have color and they are active fish for the most part...I once set up 200 gallon with
all kinds of barbs in my fish shop and it made for a great display...they like the
planted tanks and you can easily get some of them to spawn..easy keepers and disease
resistant....something to think about.. .

Mollies and Swords, in my experience are too tempermental and are always coming down
with some sort of maladies...and they don't seem to live near as long as they
should..and if you want a planted tank then you must have a hospital tank at the
ready for treatment...I am not a fan of either ....lol....Mary

""If we ever forget that we're One Nation Under God, we will become one nation gone
under.""
-Ronald Reagan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Judith Downing" <beary@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 8:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/


Hi All,

I have decided to set up a new tank, a 20 g planted tank. Now I am
trying to decide what fish to put in it. I am debating a community
tank vs a species tank. Because it is small I am thinking species but
having trouble deciding on the species. I was thinking Swordtails or
Mollies but I have never had luck with Mollies in the past & I mean
years ago. Anybody have suggestions???

Judy


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23217 From: wantvws Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: It's been two years and I'm almost ready to set up my first tank..
Hi! It's been a long time and I am almost ready to set up my first
tank...an old 210 gallon that belonged to my late brother. I haven't
posted any questions for awhile, due to many interruptions with my
initial set-up. But, after going to the pet store and drooling over
the tropical fish every week for inspiration, and endless harassment
from aquarium-less friends and family, I am determined to have it
ready within the next 1 1/2 months. Here's what I have done or purchased:
Cleaned/resealed corners on tank
Cleaned all rocks/coral that came with the tank (2 35 gallon trash
cans worth)
New glass canopy (slightly modified to work)
2 new Magnum 350 Pro canister filters w/Bio Wheel
2 new 300w heaters
New 72" Coralife 4x96 light fixture
New stand
New Coralife Super Skimmer
2 new Maxijet 1200 power heads
My set-up will be fish only at first...we'll see how successful I am
with them before I go any farther.
I still have to get the live sand, test kits, thermometers, etc...but
that will come soon.
We are so excited! This has been a long time coming...this is a very
special set-up to me, as I remember how much my brother loved this
tank when he had it operating. We have went as far as to gather
ocean/beach-type room decor, and repaint the room to give it a
nautical feel. If anyone is interested, I will be happy to post
pictures of the progress. I can post it on my work website and give
the link to you...
Thanks to everyone that put up with all of my initial questions and
took time to answer them. I'm sure there are a ton more to come!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23218 From: Memrie Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you own/
-Ohh you need to stop causing the green eyed guy out. I am itching
to see those babies.

mem
-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@...> wrote:
>
> No I don't have any photos right now. My camera was messed up and I
have not been able to purchase another one. Maybe soon.
> I also just noticed I have new babies in my tank, so maybe more
mollies.
>
> Keri
>
>
> Memrie <mblue833@...> wrote:
> Too bad I am in SC. Do you have any pics?
>
> Mem
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Keri Kimball <kiwi762@> wrote:
> >
> > Mem,
> >
> > I'm in the Central Fl area. My mollies are orange, black and
> white. I have had several bred and produce ballon mollies and sail
fin
> mollies in the 3 colors. It's been fun watching for the different
> babies.
> >
> > Keri
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Keri
>
> Lady Fabric Hoarder
>
> WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
> Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762
>
> ---------------------------------
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
> Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at
Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23219 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: amonia test
We picked up a test kit today from jungle. We had bought their so to speak, complete kit but it did not contain test for amonia. It was not a 0 but had a hint of green, guessing between .0 but not .5.

The good news is that they are eatng! Our four feeder goldfish are quite active and appear healthy. One of them has a white spot towards his mouth/nose. My partner bought a feeding ring at Petstupid (I used to work for them and hated it). The feeding ring has a suction cup that attaches to the side of our water garden. We put some food in there and we think they found it. It was floating pellets so when we got back all but a few were gone but a few had escaped the ring (we spotted a couple).

My new pondcam software has not arrived yet, but hoping for the early part of this week. A few days to tinker around and get it running properly so hoping later in the week to have it online at: http://shadows-place.com/pondcam.html . Right now there is the test image of the pond on the screen. Nothing LIVE currently. You can see the pump, a oval Lava Rock and a trapdoor snail peaking out from beside the rock.

Ordered some Duckweed to help with the coverage of the pond. Was reading that they are good for absobing certain minerals present in the water.

So far we have:

4 Feeder Comet Goldfish
2 Ogon/Platinum Koi (one silver in color and one gold)
4 or more Trapdoor Snails. When they arrived in the mail they had at least 3 babies.

Bog Plant to provide the filtration:

Creeping Jenny
Fibre Optic Rush
Blue Rush
Cherry Bounce Iris

Pond Plants:

Water Clover planted in a glass vase we found at Value Village that is filled with gravel.
Orange/Mango Water Lily we picked up at Top Foods in Olympia for $4.99 that is growing new leaves all the time.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23220 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
We have a tank of cichlids, Red Empresses male and females and a Hap
Azure? male and female. We noticed several weeks ago they were
starting to show signs of ick, white spots and rubbing against rocks,
we've only had them about 1 maybe 1 1/2 months. We treated with a ick
remedy (blue staining stuff) and did the directions to treat for 3
days after symptoms clear. Now a few have white spots on them again,
maybe 1-2 on each that have them...and haven't really noticed much
rock rubbing, if any. I'm wondering if this is ick again? We do
wekly water changes and everything test normal. Nothing new has been
added to the tank, and they were all gotten at the same time, from the
same person, in the same tank.

My question is, will salt help this any? The Hap Azure? female is
carrying eggs in her mouth and so is a Red Empress female, and
possibly another. I'm afriad to treat with anything for fear it will
kill the eggs. You cannot buy the Hap Azure? at any shops around here
so we are hoping for babies.
Can I safely treat with ick remedy again without hurting the eggs, or
will salt do the trick and what dosage?

Thanks
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23221 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 Gallon Tank--WAS: Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tan
It would make it a lot easier if you would mention what groups of fish
you have an interest in. We would then have a more limited universe of
fish to choose from. For instance, are you interested in tetras,
rasboras, barbs, or labyrinth fish? Perhaps another group piques your
interest more.

Maybe if yo mentioned a grouping of fish you'd like to see in the tank,
we could offer advice on that.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Judith Downing
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 11:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tanks do you
own/

Hi All,

I have decided to set up a new tank, a 20 g planted tank. Now I
am
trying to decide what fish to put in it. I am debating a community
tank vs a species tank. Because it is small I am thinking species but
having trouble deciding on the species. I was thinking Swordtails or
Mollies but I have never had luck with Mollies in the past & I mean
years ago. Anybody have suggestions???

Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23222 From: idgie62 Date: 7/8/2007
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
I live in North Carolina, USA and I recently aquired 5 Roanoke Darters.
I really like them and all but one took to aquarium life with no
problem. The largest one still hides among some plants but he looks
good and seems to be eating. They are coloring back out and are a joy
to watch. I feed them froozen bloodworms and some small tadpoles that a
friend gave me. I'll also feed mosquito larva when I can get some and
pieces of earthworm if I happen to find any that have been mortally
injured. This from someone who use to fish with worms and not think
twice about it.

I got the fish on a field trip with the North American Native Fish
Asociation (NANFA) convention that happened to be held nearby. Tey had
the permits and other convention goers had equippment so it was easy
that time. Now I'm trying to find out about permit and good collection
spots etc and that's a bit more chalanging.

Patricia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23223 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 Gallon Tank--WAS: Re:Tricolor mollies was: How many tank
Hi! Mary & Steve,

In answer to Steve's question about what group of fish I am
interested in, I would like something that I could breed. I don't
mean commercially, just a little bit. I have never kept any Barb's,
so maybe I'll take Mary's suggestion. Mary, which ones are easy to
spawn? Since it is only a 20g tank, the smaller species would be
best? I have only bred livebearers so egg layers would be fun for a
change. Thanks. Judy


"Well, here's my suggestion...I love barb community tanks....most any
type of barbs
get along well...I have kept Rosey barbs, Checkerboard barbs, Cherry
barbs, Tiger
barbs, Bala shark, Tin foil barbs.(the latter too large for a small
20 gallon) ...I
am sure there are more barbs that I cant think right now...even a
small school of
Botias for the bottom would be nice in a barb tank...I like them
because they all
have color and they are active fish for the most part...I once set up
200 gallon with
all kinds of barbs in my fish shop and it made for a great
display...they like the
planted tanks and you can easily get some of them to spawn..easy
keepers and disease
resistant....something to think about.. . Mary"



"It would make it a lot easier if you would mention what groups of fish
you have an interest in. We would then have a more limited universe of
fish to choose from. For instance, are you interested in tetras,
rasboras, barbs, or labyrinth fish? Perhaps another group piques your
interest more."


I have decided to set up a new tank, a 20 g planted tank. Now I am
trying to decide what fish to put in it. I am debating a community
tank vs a species tank. Because it is small I am thinking species but
having trouble deciding on the species. I was thinking Swordtails or
Mollies but I have never had luck with Mollies in the past & I mean
years ago. Anybody have suggestions???

Judy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23224 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: Re: a question out of curiousity
Since you already know about http://NANFA.org, you should check out their
site. I've spent a little time on their site and there are lots of
resources which should answer your questions. I think they have info pages
sorted by State and they have forums also if you can't find exactly what you
are looking for. Come back and let us know what you found.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of idgie62
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 1:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: a question out of curiousity

I live in North Carolina, USA and I recently aquired 5 Roanoke Darters.
I really like them and all but one took to aquarium life with no problem.
The largest one still hides among some plants but he looks good and seems to
be eating. They are coloring back out and are a joy to watch. I feed them
froozen bloodworms and some small tadpoles that a friend gave me. I'll also
feed mosquito larva when I can get some and pieces of earthworm if I happen
to find any that have been mortally injured. This from someone who use to
fish with worms and not think twice about it.

I got the fish on a field trip with the North American Native Fish
Asociation (NANFA) convention that happened to be held nearby. Tey had the
permits and other convention goers had equippment so it was easy that time.
Now I'm trying to find out about permit and good collection spots etc and
that's a bit more chalanging.

Patricia


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.2/891 - Release Date: 7/8/2007
6:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23225 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam video
Well today, I ran my underwater camera in our container watergarden and boy is the water clear and the fish are extremely active. I was not able to upload the file to my own server and its too large for the YG files section (slightly under 3MB). I also put the video to some upbeat music. Anyone that might be interested in me sending to them via email can private email :P

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23226 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam #2
I have uploaded the video to Youtube but it will take awhile for it to appear on their site. I will let you know when it finally appears on the site.

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23227 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/9/2007
Subject: underwater cam video FINALLY uploaded
Hi last posting on this from me unless responding to someone. You can view it on Youtube
The music choice to go with the video: Rock The Casbah by The Clash.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=uRqHqfGGIxI

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23228 From: uniqueen2004 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have only 2 ten gallon freshwater tanks, with an assortment of
Danios, Guppies, and Tetras in one, and the other tank has a molly, a
female sunset gourami, a few Tetras, and a couple of swordtails. they
also both have a snail and a mini catfish, plus a critter that was
only labled algae eater in the store. I klnow, they are somewhat
crowded, but I have a 20 Gallon I am setting up, to give them a new
home soon. I stocked them before I joined the group.

Karen from NY
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23229 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Parasites
I believe that I have parasites in my 55 gallon planted tank. What
would be the easiest, fastest, and best way to remove them. Symptoms
include: flashing altho not very often, not eating, hiding, rapid gill
movement(can't tell if all fish are affected), trouble swimming
correctly, and death. There are several sensitive fish in this tank.
Clown loach, neon tetras, corycat. I don't want to remove the plants
as there are so many. Could I do a total water change, and restart the
tank with stresscoat and stresszyme. Not sure how to procede with
plants and sensitve fish. Don't want to lose my plants or fish. Thank
you. Pearly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23230 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
What are water parameters. Why else do you think you have parasites. Did you
add anything new to tank recently.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23232 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
My water is ammonia-0, nitrites-0, nitrates-20(pwc is due). Temp is
78-
80. Ph is 6.8. Yes I added angelfish no qt(knew better just got
overly
excited). The symptoms are the only thing telling me parasites. I
have
lost the fish I recently added plus a few that I have had awhile.

---
In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
> What are water parameters. Why else do you think you have
parasites.
Did you
> add anything new to tank recently.
>
> Joey
>
> _www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23233 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
The only thing I can think of is doing a large water change to reduce the
nitrates. Then see if they eat. But In my experience the higher the nitrates
stress out the fish. So far no other problems in my tanks so I wouldn't be able
to help you there

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23234 From: whjordan83 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
I have a 37 gallon tank with one Polypterus senegalus and two Synodontis
spp. About three or four months back I started having water clarity
issues and noticed these little worm like creatures in the water. I do
not know if the creatures are related to the water clarity or not, it's
just the time when I noticed the worms for the first time.

The worm creatures are hardly out swimming in the water, I usually find
hundreds or thousands when I do my weekly water change. I assume they
are living in the gravel since that's when I notice them after I gravel
vac them into the bucket.

The worms are very small in size, probably about a quarter of an inch in
length, not bigger around than a piece of thread, grey when in the water
and a red color when there are clusters of them in the bucket. They
resemble tubifex worms.

Does anyone know what these things are, if they are harmful, and how I
can get rid of them?

Here are a couple of pictures I took while they were in the bucket.
This is the most I have seen at any one time.

[Worms00000.jpg]

[Worms00002.jpg]

[Worms00003.jpg]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23235 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
We have a tank of cichlids, Red Empresses male and females and a Hap
Azure? male and female. We noticed several weeks ago they were
starting to show signs of ick, white spots and rubbing against
rocks, we've only had them about 1 maybe 1 1/2 months. We treated
with a ick remedy (blue staining stuff) and did the directions to
treat for 3 days after symptoms clear. Now a few have white spots
on them again, maybe 1-2 on each that have them...and haven't really
noticed much rock rubbing, if any. I'm wondering if this is ick
again? We do weekly water changes and everything test normal.
Nothing new has been added to the tank, and they were all gotten at
the same time, from the same person, in the same tank.

My question is, will salt help this any? The Hap Azure? female is
carrying eggs in her mouth and so is a Red Empress female, and
possibly another. I'm afriad to treat with anything for fear it will
kill the eggs. You cannot buy the Hap Azure? at any shops around
here so we are hoping for babies. Can I safely treat with ick remedy
again without hurting the eggs, or will salt do the trick and what
dosage?

Thanks
Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23236 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
I believe the treatment for ICH Methalyne Blue was also used by breeders for
awhile, to use at a lower strength to keeps eggs from getting fungus. I may
be mistaken though.

Joey

_www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23237 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/10/2007
Subject: Re: Question: Treatment for Ick and Fish with Eggs
Back in the old days 40 plus ears ago they did use Methylene blue as
an anti fungal for eggs. I would try to raise the temp up; to around
83 to 84 degrees plus the salt. The higher temp will let the ick go
through it's life cycle faster and hopefully you will be able to
kill off the free swimming ick. Once an ick parasite had lived on a
fish and matured it will fall off onto the bottom where in from a
few days to a few weeks the mature eggs will hatch and start the
cycle all over. Just because you do not see any spots on the fish
does not mean that they do not exist n the tank. This is why I
recommend treating for at least 3 weeks after you last see the spots
on your fish. If you use a med make sure that you remove the carbon
unless it states that you can leave the carbon in your filter.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
> I believe the treatment for ICH Methalyne Blue was also used by
breeders for
> awhile, to use at a lower strength to keeps eggs from getting
fungus. I may
> be mistaken though.
>
> Joey
>
> _www.pbase.com/joesbirds_ (http://www.pbase.com/joesbirds)
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23238 From: anil abraham Date: 7/11/2007
Subject: Re: Parasites
Hi,


i think it is ick infestation of some kind i had the
same experience flashing fins, no food intake, hiding
and if swimming a tendency to swim together ( they are
african ciclids so this is very strange ) cloudy eyes
and death after some time. the white spots appeared
very late.
i lost almost all the fish in the tank.

salt higher tempratures & white spot chemical green
helps but be sure the lights are out, areator and
filters are in full force and no carbon in the filter
media

Good Luck

--- friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:

> I believe that I have parasites in my 55 gallon
> planted tank. What
> would be the easiest, fastest, and best way to
> remove them. Symptoms
> include: flashing altho not very often, not eating,
> hiding, rapid gill
> movement(can't tell if all fish are affected),
> trouble swimming
> correctly, and death. There are several sensitive
> fish in this tank.
> Clown loach, neon tetras, corycat. I don't want to
> remove the plants
> as there are so many. Could I do a total water
> change, and restart the
> tank with stresscoat and stresszyme. Not sure how to
> procede with
> plants and sensitve fish. Don't want to lose my
> plants or fish. Thank
> you. Pearly
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23239 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/11/2007
Subject: Deciding on fish
Judy,

In an answer to your question about what you can breed, here is my ideas for you. I had wanted to breed fish for a long time also, just as a hobby. I then decided to go all out in it. I have my 55 gallon tank and decided to have fun. I have placed swords, mollies, platys, guppies in the tank, added plants to the top and bottom. I have been rewarded with all kinds of babies (and even found a twin bar platy baby). Since then I have had convicts breed. I personally would say try adding just a bunch of the livebearers they are supposed to be the easiest fish to bred. With allowing my fish free rein I have also found a couple of unique colored swordtails. I have had a couple of male sword tails that their top half of their body was the pineapple color and they had a neon green tail. Good luck in your adventures in making a hobby, I have had a lot of fun looking in to feed my fish and finding new babies hiding in my plants.

Keri


Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23240 From: Just ask me Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Jellyfish Population Explosion Leads To New Use For Waste Creatures
Amid growing concern about how to dispose of a booming population of
jellyfish — including 6-foot-long monsters weighing more than 400
pounds — scientists in Japan are reporting development of a process
for extracting a commercially-valuable biomaterial from the marine
animals. Their report is scheduled for the July 27 issue of ACS Journal
of Natural Products, a monthly publication. Read more at my Blog Marine
animal news <http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/> and see the vivid
creatrers at my blog Videos of blue waters
<http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23241 From: Judith Downing Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Deciding on fish
Dear Keri,

I was thinking about doing just that, I have guppies breeding in a
5g already and Platies in my 50g, but as far as I know they haven't
bred yet. My concerns are: I have never had luck with Mollies before,
of course this was back in the dark ages when the nitrogen cycle was
not part of my vocabulary. LOL. My second concern is I heard
swordtails are prime jumpers. Do you find that to be true? Thanks.

Judy

Judy,

In an answer to your question about what you can breed, here is my
ideas for you. I had wanted to breed fish for a long time also, just
as a hobby. I then decided to go all out in it. I have my 55 gallon
tank and decided to have fun. I have placed swords, mollies, platys,
guppies in the tank, added plants to the top and bottom. I have been
rewarded with all kinds of babies (and even found a twin bar platy
baby). Since then I have had convicts breed. I personally would say
try adding just a bunch of the livebearers they are supposed to be
the easiest fish to bred. With allowing my fish free rein I have also
found a couple of unique colored swordtails. I have had a couple of
male sword tails that their top half of their body was the pineapple
color and they had a neon green tail. Good luck in your adventures in
making a hobby, I have had a lot of fun looking in to feed my fish
and finding new babies hiding in my plants.

Keri



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23242 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Deciding on fish
Judith,

Actually, I have had a few swords jump out, but then again I have had a butterfly flish and a pleco do it also. I never had good luck with black mollies and had a black molly bring ick into my tank and killed off a lot of fish. I since switched to dalmation and gold dust mollies. Since then I have had very little problems with the mollies. I have now ended up with Sailfin and Ballon mollies since then. plus I was told black mollies are prone to ick anyways. I only have 1 black molly now and she was bred in my tank from 2 dalmation mollies. I guess it's just like any other fish, you have your good ones and bad ones.

Platy's I hear are supposed to be the harder livebearers to breed. I look at this tank as if my fish survive and bred than that is great, but if not it's no big deal. This is just a hobby tank and so it's fun. Plus the benefits that we get from the tank are better than the stress that trying to make everything perfect for them.

I wish you luck in whichever path you choose. I even used some feeder guppies at first to start my guppy group, I had some neat male guppies they had the spots from the feeder guppies with fancy tails from the fancier ones.

Keri


Judith Downing <beary@...> wrote:
Dear Keri,

I was thinking about doing just that, I have guppies breeding in a
5g already and Platies in my 50g, but as far as I know they haven't
bred yet. My concerns are: I have never had luck with Mollies before,
of course this was back in the dark ages when the nitrogen cycle was
not part of my vocabulary. LOL. My second concern is I heard
swordtails are prime jumpers. Do you find that to be true? Thanks.

Judy

Judy,

In an answer to your question about what you can breed, here is my
ideas for you. I had wanted to breed fish for a long time also, just
as a hobby. I then decided to go all out in it. I have my 55 gallon
tank and decided to have fun. I have placed swords, mollies, platys,
guppies in the tank, added plants to the top and bottom. I have been
rewarded with all kinds of babies (and even found a twin bar platy
baby). Since then I have had convicts breed. I personally would say
try adding just a bunch of the livebearers they are supposed to be
the easiest fish to bred. With allowing my fish free rein I have also
found a couple of unique colored swordtails. I have had a couple of
male sword tails that their top half of their body was the pineapple
color and they had a neon green tail. Good luck in your adventures in
making a hobby, I have had a lot of fun looking in to feed my fish
and finding new babies hiding in my plants.

Keri

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23243 From: Debbie Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Question about setting up a 30gal saltwater tank?
Hello everyone, Got a question about setting up a new 30 gal
saltwater tank.... Hubby and I are fairly new to the saltwater world..
What does anyone think about putting a underground filter in the tank
but putting a powerhead on the tubes instead of air stones? Thank you
in advance for your reponses... Debbie/ca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23244 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Question about setting up a 30gal saltwater tank?
I would not use a UGF at all, they are just too much of a nitrate trap.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Debbie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 3:16 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about setting up a 30gal saltwater tank?



Hello everyone, Got a question about setting up a new 30 gal
saltwater tank.... Hubby and I are fairly new to the saltwater world..
What does anyone think about putting a underground filter in the tank
but putting a powerhead on the tubes instead of air stones? Thank you
in advance for your reponses... Debbie/ca






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.4/897 - Release Date: 7/11/2007 9:57 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23245 From: Vitae Date: 7/12/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
Sounds like harmless wormies to me, I forgot their name but they are edible by the fish and harmless, but you'll want to keep an eye on your water parims as they do tend to appear when something is off.. at least this is from my experiance. I could be wrong :)

Also, hello group ^^

-V

----- Original Message -----
From: whjordan83
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Possible Parasites


I have a 37 gallon tank with one Polypterus senegalus and two
Synodontis spp. About three or four months back I started having water
clarity issues and noticed these little worm like creatures in the
water. I do not know if the creatures are related to the water clarity
or not, it's just the time when I noticed the worms for the first time.

The worm creatures are hardly out swimming in the water, I usually find
hundreds or thousands when I do my weekly water change. I assume they
are living in the gravel since that's when I notice them after I gravel
vac them into the bucket.

The worms are very small in size, probably about a quarter of an inch
in length, not bigger around than a piece of thread, grey in color.
They resemble tubifex worms.

Does anyone know what these things are, if they are harmful, and how I
can get rid of them?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23246 From: Mat Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Possible Parasites
Do they resemble, for lack of a better descriptive word, maggots?
inching alone the glass and plants? If they do, then they would be
either Planaria or Tubellaria. They apear when you over feed your
fish and they are brought in with your gravel. Ussually live sand
like eco-complete or some such. Harmless and a source of protien for
your fishes. Slow down on the feeding and they should dissapear.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Vitae" <vitae@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like harmless wormies to me, I forgot their name but they
are edible by the fish and harmless, but you'll want to keep an eye
on your water parims as they do tend to appear when something is
off.. at least this is from my experiance. I could be wrong :)
>
> Also, hello group ^^
>
> -V
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: whjordan83
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 12:10 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Possible Parasites
>
>
> I have a 37 gallon tank with one Polypterus senegalus and two
> Synodontis spp. About three or four months back I started having
water
> clarity issues and noticed these little worm like creatures in
the
> water. I do not know if the creatures are related to the water
clarity
> or not, it's just the time when I noticed the worms for the first
time.
>
> The worm creatures are hardly out swimming in the water, I
usually find
> hundreds or thousands when I do my weekly water change. I assume
they
> are living in the gravel since that's when I notice them after I
gravel
> vac them into the bucket.
>
> The worms are very small in size, probably about a quarter of an
inch
> in length, not bigger around than a piece of thread, grey in
color.
> They resemble tubifex worms.
>
> Does anyone know what these things are, if they are harmful, and
how I
> can get rid of them?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23247 From: Billy Rowe Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Algae problem solution and good product
I had a very bad algea problem. I did a 50% cahnge and then did a 10%
change. I did a good job but still had some problems. I called a toll
dree line that gives advise. They said to wait awhile and pour booling
water over all of the fixtures. I takes off the algae instantly. I then
used wipes, bought from PetSmart. They then recommended a algae
chemicla. It it a harse chemical but if used right it does not harm the
fish. That took all of the algae our of the thank.

Then, I found a product from Tetra Care called Easy Balance. You put it
in after a established tank, at least 3 months, and use it weekly.
Then, you do not have to change the water for 3-4 months. My tank now
looks great. You do have to make sure your tank has enough oxygen in
the tank. It also has Nitraban that reduces the amount of nitrate in
your tank. Mine was high after my algea problem.

You can go to www.tetra-fish.com and register, then you can get the
number. They are very helpful and everything they said to do helped out.

Billy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23248 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
I used a razor blade for a 20 gallon that was completely green. The
fish ate the algae and the filter took care of the rest. That was over
a month ago and all that came back was a few small spots.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23249 From: Hero Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Water Parameter for spiny lobster?
Hallo all,
Can somebody inform me :
- the water quality parameters for spiny lobster?
- Equipment/device to check water quality? where to buy?
thanks all..



warm regards,


Hero
Bali-Indonesia
e-mail :
heroas@...
albertus_hero_as@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23250 From: hamrad45 Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: How much food is too much?
I know this is very subjective but any help will be appreicated. I
recently setup a 20 gallon tank with various Barbs for a total of 7
each being 1 to 2 inches in lenght. I am afraid to over feed them and
the directions on the food container says feed enough food for them to
eat for 5 minutes. At that rate they eat what would seem to be nearly
an ounce of flake dried food or nearly a handful. This would seem to
me to be way too much. Presently, I am putting what I can grab between
my finger and thumb times 3. I do this twice a day.

Also, is there any fresh food I could put in the tank for them to munch
on? I would assume you would not leave it in the tank too long.
(Presently, I have no live plants). Or what would be a good live plant?

Thanks for your time,

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23251 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks into toxic
waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you posted.

If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent enough 25%
PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and undermaintaining
your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add chemicals.... just
do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
ecologically balanced.

The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various acids and
bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS on this
chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at the
bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find the MSDS
on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and is in
violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by not having
it available on their website. In another forum, I made a sarcastic comment
about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing the fish
and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while getting
moved around by the filter current. :-D

While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment done on a
10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed in the
year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from breeding can't
be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket the
product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY IRRESPONSIBLE
ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER CHANGES
FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.

You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than relying on
retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23252 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
+I tell people that the size of the eyes is about the size of the
stomach. If it takes more than two or maybe even three minutes for
your fish to eat then you are overfeeding and that is once a day.
The fish food manufacturers like to tell you to feed your fish more
so that they can sell more fish food to you. The more food that yo
put in the tank the more polluted it can get or what goes in a fish
comes out the other end in a different product.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hamrad45" <hamrad45@...> wrote:
>
> I know this is very subjective but any help will be appreicated. I
> recently setup a 20 gallon tank with various Barbs for a total of 7
> each being 1 to 2 inches in lenght. I am afraid to over feed them
and
> the directions on the food container says feed enough food for
them to
> eat for 5 minutes. At that rate they eat what would seem to be
nearly
> an ounce of flake dried food or nearly a handful. This would seem
to
> me to be way too much. Presently, I am putting what I can grab
between
> my finger and thumb times 3. I do this twice a day.
>
> Also, is there any fresh food I could put in the tank for them to
munch
> on? I would assume you would not leave it in the tank too long.
> (Presently, I have no live plants). Or what would be a good live
plant?
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Tom
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23253 From: Hamrad Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Thanks for the information. I have been feeding them about 3 pinches once a
day and they eat it in less than a minute.

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dreammaker2623" <dreammaker2623@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: How much food is too much?


+I tell people that the size of the eyes is about the size of the
stomach. If it takes more than two or maybe even three minutes for
your fish to eat then you are overfeeding and that is once a day.
The fish food manufacturers like to tell you to feed your fish more
so that they can sell more fish food to you. The more food that yo
put in the tank the more polluted it can get or what goes in a fish
comes out the other end in a different product.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hamrad45" <hamrad45@...> wrote:
>
> I know this is very subjective but any help will be appreicated. I
> recently setup a 20 gallon tank with various Barbs for a total of 7
> each being 1 to 2 inches in lenght. I am afraid to over feed them
and
> the directions on the food container says feed enough food for
them to
> eat for 5 minutes. At that rate they eat what would seem to be
nearly
> an ounce of flake dried food or nearly a handful. This would seem
to
> me to be way too much. Presently, I am putting what I can grab
between
> my finger and thumb times 3. I do this twice a day.
>
> Also, is there any fresh food I could put in the tank for them to
munch
> on? I would assume you would not leave it in the tank too long.
> (Presently, I have no live plants). Or what would be a good live
plant?
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Tom
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23254 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
LOL,

that was great Lenny.



Tetra also bought out another filter manufacturer and shut down the manufacturing plant in the U.S. and outsourced it over seas.? Lets hope they do not make any of their food or chemical products from a certain country that has a knack for Melamine additives.



Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny

In another forum, I made a sarcastic comment
about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing the fish
and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while getting
moved around by the filter current. :-D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23255 From: Billy Rowe Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
I know that you are the "expert" in this group. However, I do know
quite a bit of how to take care of fish, nice remark. My excess waste
problem at first was a result of overfeeding by my wife. I then made
several water changes to lower amonia. Amonia of course increases
your nitrites and even for a while until the tank goes through it
cycle.

I then had a algea problem and every test was right on except
nitrates. Amoina has always been 0 since I got the excess waste out
through REGULAR water changes. However, even though all other things
was correct except Nitrates. WITH WATER CHANGES. I then got algae
control and it helped the algae.

I started using Easy Balance 2 weeks ago. I do not plan on only doing
water changes as it states. However, when chemicals are checked they
are all withinn normal limits.

Oh, and by the way my fish are swimming fine. Did you know that Diet
sodas are filled with formaldehyde. So, maybe you are walking around
dead and following the wind.

I did PWC and nothing helped. I put in a better filter and it still
did not help. Why not use algea control? I know I have a lot to learn
but why did you disagree with everything I said? Everyone thinks you
are a God, maybe some of us need to stop. I was making a sugesstion
as to how to control algae AFTER PWC.

If all of the controls are within limits what is wrong with my fish
keeping skills. They always have been except when I had that
overfeeding problem and Nitrate issue. Now, they are fine.

Thanks for the kind remarks, aka Gold Lenny (joking of course)




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks
into toxic
> waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you
posted.
>
> If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent
enough 25%
> PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and
undermaintaining
> your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add
chemicals.... just
> do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
> ecologically balanced.
>
> The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various
acids and
> bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS
on this
> chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at
the
> bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find
the MSDS
> on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and
is in
> violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by
not having
> it available on their website. In another forum, I made a
sarcastic comment
> about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing
the fish
> and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while
getting
> moved around by the filter current. :-D
>
> While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment
done on a
> 10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed
in the
> year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from
breeding can't
> be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket
the
> product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY
IRRESPONSIBLE
> ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER
CHANGES
> FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.
>
> You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than
relying on
> retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23256 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Like Lenny, I would encourage fishkeepers trying to learn about the hobby to
consider alternatives to chemicals in algae control. To keep algae under
control, do frequent water changes to keep Nitrates under 40ppm or even
under 20ppm. If you scrape the glass and vacuum the substrate every week
during your water change, the tank will look pristine and the algae on rocks
will look natural.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem solution and good product



I know that you are the "expert" in this group. However, I do know
quite a bit of how to take care of fish, nice remark. My excess waste
problem at first was a result of overfeeding by my wife. I then made
several water changes to lower amonia. Amonia of course increases
your nitrites and even for a while until the tank goes through it
cycle.

I then had a algea problem and every test was right on except
nitrates. Amoina has always been 0 since I got the excess waste out
through REGULAR water changes. However, even though all other things
was correct except Nitrates. WITH WATER CHANGES. I then got algae
control and it helped the algae.

I started using Easy Balance 2 weeks ago. I do not plan on only doing
water changes as it states. However, when chemicals are checked they
are all withinn normal limits.

Oh, and by the way my fish are swimming fine. Did you know that Diet
sodas are filled with formaldehyde. So, maybe you are walking around
dead and following the wind.

I did PWC and nothing helped. I put in a better filter and it still
did not help. Why not use algea control? I know I have a lot to learn
but why did you disagree with everything I said? Everyone thinks you
are a God, maybe some of us need to stop. I was making a sugesstion
as to how to control algae AFTER PWC.

If all of the controls are within limits what is wrong with my fish
keeping skills. They always have been except when I had that
overfeeding problem and Nitrate issue. Now, they are fine.

Thanks for the kind remarks, aka Gold Lenny (joking of course)

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks
into toxic
> waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you
posted.
>
> If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent
enough 25%
> PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and
undermaintaining
> your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add
chemicals.... just
> do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
> ecologically balanced.
>
> The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various
acids and
> bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS
on this
> chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at
the
> bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find
the MSDS
> on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and
is in
> violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by
not having
> it available on their website. In another forum, I made a
sarcastic comment
> about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing
the fish
> and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while
getting
> moved around by the filter current. :-D
>
> While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment
done on a
> 10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed
in the
> year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from
breeding can't
> be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket
the
> product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY
IRRESPONSIBLE
> ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER
CHANGES
> FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.
>
> You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than
relying on
> retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23257 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Can you please suggest some equipments for vacuuming the substrate. I am a new member. Till now I have been using suction to clean the substrata. This results in excessive loss of precious water as the water also gets dirty & takes long time to get clear if left undisturbed.

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote: Like Lenny, I would encourage fishkeepers trying to learn about the hobby to
consider alternatives to chemicals in algae control. To keep algae under
control, do frequent water changes to keep Nitrates under 40ppm or even
under 20ppm. If you scrape the glass and vacuum the substrate every week
during your water change, the tank will look pristine and the algae on rocks
will look natural.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem solution and good product

I know that you are the "expert" in this group. However, I do know
quite a bit of how to take care of fish, nice remark. My excess waste
problem at first was a result of overfeeding by my wife. I then made
several water changes to lower amonia. Amonia of course increases
your nitrites and even for a while until the tank goes through it
cycle.

I then had a algea problem and every test was right on except
nitrates. Amoina has always been 0 since I got the excess waste out
through REGULAR water changes. However, even though all other things
was correct except Nitrates. WITH WATER CHANGES. I then got algae
control and it helped the algae.

I started using Easy Balance 2 weeks ago. I do not plan on only doing
water changes as it states. However, when chemicals are checked they
are all withinn normal limits.

Oh, and by the way my fish are swimming fine. Did you know that Diet
sodas are filled with formaldehyde. So, maybe you are walking around
dead and following the wind.

I did PWC and nothing helped. I put in a better filter and it still
did not help. Why not use algea control? I know I have a lot to learn
but why did you disagree with everything I said? Everyone thinks you
are a God, maybe some of us need to stop. I was making a sugesstion
as to how to control algae AFTER PWC.

If all of the controls are within limits what is wrong with my fish
keeping skills. They always have been except when I had that
overfeeding problem and Nitrate issue. Now, they are fine.

Thanks for the kind remarks, aka Gold Lenny (joking of course)

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks
into toxic
> waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you
posted.
>
> If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent
enough 25%
> PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and
undermaintaining
> your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add
chemicals.... just
> do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
> ecologically balanced.
>
> The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various
acids and
> bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS
on this
> chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at
the
> bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find
the MSDS
> on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and
is in
> violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by
not having
> it available on their website. In another forum, I made a
sarcastic comment
> about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing
the fish
> and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while
getting
> moved around by the filter current. :-D
>
> While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment
done on a
> 10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed
in the
> year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from
breeding can't
> be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket
the
> product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY
IRRESPONSIBLE
> ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER
CHANGES
> FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.
>
> You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than
relying on
> retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23258 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/13/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Dear Friends,

I am Sharad Tiwari from India & new to the group. I have three 6*1.5*2 feet glass aquariums. I keep the food to the fishes in limits, feed twice a day and keep the mechanical filter cum aerator running after the food is consumed. Due to water scarcity, this way I could use the same water for little over one year without any mortality. Only side effect was that the water had become slightly yellow. I have changed 3/4 of water now and every thing is in controll. To keep the water chlorine free I kee the bucket full in sun for two days.

Sharad

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks into toxic
waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you posted.

If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent enough 25%
PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and undermaintaining
your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add chemicals.... just
do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
ecologically balanced.

The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various acids and
bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS on this
chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at the
bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find the MSDS
on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and is in
violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by not having
it available on their website. In another forum, I made a sarcastic comment
about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing the fish
and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while getting
moved around by the filter current. :-D

While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment done on a
10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed in the
year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from breeding can't
be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket the
product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY IRRESPONSIBLE
ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER CHANGES
FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.

You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than relying on
retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23259 From: Alan Henney Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Need help w/ crab ID
Can anybody identify this crab?

http://henney.com/weekend08/chspcrab2.jpg

I took the picture on Friday at the Cape Henlopen State Park in
Delaware.

Thanks,
Alan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23260 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Hi friends,

I am Sharad Tiwari from India. I feel the quantity of feed should be according to number of fishes in the pond. Other wise the most active one will gobble the most than the sluggish one.

Hamrad <hamrad45@...> wrote: Thanks for the information. I have been feeding them about 3 pinches once a
day and they eat it in less than a minute.

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dreammaker2623" <dreammaker2623@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: How much food is too much?

+I tell people that the size of the eyes is about the size of the
stomach. If it takes more than two or maybe even three minutes for
your fish to eat then you are overfeeding and that is once a day.
The fish food manufacturers like to tell you to feed your fish more
so that they can sell more fish food to you. The more food that yo
put in the tank the more polluted it can get or what goes in a fish
comes out the other end in a different product.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hamrad45" <hamrad45@...> wrote:
>
> I know this is very subjective but any help will be appreicated. I
> recently setup a 20 gallon tank with various Barbs for a total of 7
> each being 1 to 2 inches in lenght. I am afraid to over feed them
and
> the directions on the food container says feed enough food for
them to
> eat for 5 minutes. At that rate they eat what would seem to be
nearly
> an ounce of flake dried food or nearly a handful. This would seem
to
> me to be way too much. Presently, I am putting what I can grab
between
> my finger and thumb times 3. I do this twice a day.
>
> Also, is there any fresh food I could put in the tank for them to
munch
> on? I would assume you would not leave it in the tank too long.
> (Presently, I have no live plants). Or what would be a good live
plant?
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Tom
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Download prohibited? No problem. CHAT from any browser, without download.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23261 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: How much food is too much?
Always a good question--how much do I feed? Always a pretty tough one to
answer without over generalizing. The over generalized answer is to feed
no more than the fish will consume in 1-2 minutes. With your
description, this should serve you well. However, if you have, or get
other fish, this may need some modification, should the other fish be
slower eaters or inhabit the lower levels of the tank. In that case you
will need to ensure they get their fill as well, and there are tricks of
the trade that will enable you to do this.

Fish are opportunistic feeders. When food is available, they will eat.
Think of it as the "see food" diet <g>. In the wild, food may not be as
available as it is in an aquarium, so fish take the opportunity to eat
when it is available, and fast when it is not. His leads to the idea of
a fast day as part of the feeding regimen, where, periodically, a day is
skipped when the fish are not fed. For those who go on vacation, this
could be one-two weeks of missed feedings. If the fish are healthy, and
the tank parameters are good, one then comes home to a tank of thinner
fish, eager for the next meal.

Overfeeding can lead to problems in the tank. Not only do you have the
waste problem, but fish can suffer physically, just has humans can, when
they eat too much on a regular basis. Uneaten food will settle to the
bottom of the tank and into the substrate, where it will decay and add
to the biological load of the tank, and, perhaps, overwhelm it. Decaying
food in the substrate can produce methane and hydrogen sulfide gases,
which, when released, can have ill effects on the fish. Good tank
maintenance should minimize or remove this hazard.

Variety in the diet should also be seen to. Lobster is a food that many
people look forward to (says this former New Englander), but if you eat
it every day, by the end of the week, you'll be looking for something
else, like maybe a good Midwestern steak (hey, I lived in the Midwest
for a time, too). So get a variety of dry foods to use, as well as
mixing in some live foods from time to time

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 2:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How much food is too much?

I know this is very subjective but any help will be appreicated. I
recently setup a 20 gallon tank with various Barbs for a total of 7
each being 1 to 2 inches in lenght. I am afraid to over feed them and
the directions on the food container says feed enough food for them to
eat for 5 minutes. At that rate they eat what would seem to be nearly
an ounce of flake dried food or nearly a handful. This would seem to
me to be way too much. Presently, I am putting what I can grab between
my finger and thumb times 3. I do this twice a day.

Also, is there any fresh food I could put in the tank for them to munch
on? I would assume you would not leave it in the tank too long.
(Presently, I have no live plants). Or what would be a good live plant?

Thanks for your time,

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23262 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem
I use a Python (a suction device, powered by water) and it wastes even more
water. I have my own well and septic system, any water I use returns to the
aquifer (eventually) for me to use again. How do you control Nitrates if
you don’t do weekly water changes? The suctioning out of 60 gallons every
week (from a 125 gallon tank) is what powers the Python to vacuum the
gravel.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sharad Tiwari
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 11:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem solution and good
product



Can you please suggest some equipments for vacuuming the substrate. I am a
new member. Till now I have been using suction to clean the substrata. This
results in excessive loss of precious water as the water also gets dirty &
takes long time to get clear if left undisturbed.

Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net> .net>
wrote: Like Lenny, I would encourage fishkeepers trying to learn about the
hobby to
consider alternatives to chemicals in algae control. To keep algae under
control, do frequent water changes to keep Nitrates under 40ppm or even
under 20ppm. If you scrape the glass and vacuum the substrate every week
during your water change, the tank will look pristine and the algae on rocks
will look natural.

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Billy Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 8:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem solution and good product

I know that you are the "expert" in this group. However, I do know
quite a bit of how to take care of fish, nice remark. My excess waste
problem at first was a result of overfeeding by my wife. I then made
several water changes to lower amonia. Amonia of course increases
your nitrites and even for a while until the tank goes through it
cycle.

I then had a algea problem and every test was right on except
nitrates. Amoina has always been 0 since I got the excess waste out
through REGULAR water changes. However, even though all other things
was correct except Nitrates. WITH WATER CHANGES. I then got algae
control and it helped the algae.

I started using Easy Balance 2 weeks ago. I do not plan on only doing
water changes as it states. However, when chemicals are checked they
are all withinn normal limits.

Oh, and by the way my fish are swimming fine. Did you know that Diet
sodas are filled with formaldehyde. So, maybe you are walking around
dead and following the wind.

I did PWC and nothing helped. I put in a better filter and it still
did not help. Why not use algea control? I know I have a lot to learn
but why did you disagree with everything I said? Everyone thinks you
are a God, maybe some of us need to stop. I was making a sugesstion
as to how to control algae AFTER PWC.

If all of the controls are within limits what is wrong with my fish
keeping skills. They always have been except when I had that
overfeeding problem and Nitrate issue. Now, they are fine.

Thanks for the kind remarks, aka Gold Lenny (joking of course)

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry Billy but you are recommending that people turn their tanks
into toxic
> waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you
posted.
>
> If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent
enough 25%
> PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and
undermaintaining
> your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add
chemicals.... just
> do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
> ecologically balanced.
>
> The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various
acids and
> bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS
on this
> chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at
the
> bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find
the MSDS
> on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and
is in
> violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by
not having
> it available on their website. In another forum, I made a
sarcastic comment
> about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing
the fish
> and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while
getting
> moved around by the filter current. :-D
>
> While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment
done on a
> 10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed
in the
> year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from
breeding can't
> be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket
the
> product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY
IRRESPONSIBLE
> ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER
CHANGES
> FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.
>
> You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than
relying on
> retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23263 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
I would suspect that your nitrates are out of whack (i.e. out of a
normal, acceptable range) and there are many things that we do not
measure for, such as hormones and pheronomes, that are not helping the
health of your fish any. If you introduce new fish, I am sure they will
have a tough time adjusting to the conditions in your tank.

In a closed system, you need to do water changes. There is no way around
it.

I do know that there are areas where water is scarce, but water removed
from the tank can be used for other tasks, such as watering plants,
rather than putting it down the drain.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Sharad Tiwari
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2007 11:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: Algae problem solution and good product

Dear Friends,

I am Sharad Tiwari from India & new to the group. I have three 6*1.5*2
feet glass aquariums. I keep the food to the fishes in limits, feed
twice a day and keep the mechanical filter cum aerator running after the
food is consumed. Due to water scarcity, this way I could use the same
water for little over one year without any mortality. Only side effect
was that the water had become slightly yellow. I have changed 3/4 of
water now and every thing is in controll. To keep the water chlorine
free I kee the bucket full in sun for two days.

Sharad

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Sorry Billy but
you are recommending that people turn their tanks into toxic
waste dumps. I respectfully disagree with almost everything you posted.


If you had high nitrates, that means you were not doing frequent enough
25%
PWC's (partial water changes) combined with overfeeding and
undermaintaining
your tank and filter system(s). You did not need to add chemicals....
just
do better tank/filter maintenance and learn how to make your tank
ecologically balanced.

The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various acids
and
bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS on
this
chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at the
bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find the
MSDS
on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and is in
violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by not
having
it available on their website. In another forum, I made a sarcastic
comment
about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing the
fish
and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while
getting
moved around by the filter current. :-D

While it supposedly works as advertised, there was an experiment done on
a
10G guppy tank using EB with Nitraban and the guppies did not breed in
the
year that it was used. Any chemical that stops guppies from breeding
can't
be very good for the rest of our fish. Maybe they should remarket the
product as a fish birth control solution BUT IT'S COMPLETELY
IRRESPONSIBLE
ON TETRA'S PART TO TELL PEOPLE THEY DO NOT HAVE TO DO PARTIAL WATER
CHANGES
FOR SIX MONTHS WHILE USING THIS CHEMICAL.

You need to learn more about proper fishkeeping, rather than relying on
retail chemicals to solve minor ecology issues in your tank(s).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Sharad,

I understand you are in an area with limited available water. If you really
can't do PWC's on a regular basis (this varies depending on the tanks
ecology), I'm not sure I would recommend keeping fish as a hobby.... much
like I wouldn't advise someone to keep a horse if they lived in a high-rise
building apartment... BUT if you are going to try to do this, it would be
better for you and your fish if you went with a heavily planted tank or a
Walstad System http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTank.html tank so you have
a more natural ecology where the plants keep the water cleaner and utilize
the fish poop and waste as a food source.

As far as equipment, the Marineland Magnum 350 Bio-Pro Filter System,
http://www.marineland.com/products/consumer/con_magnum.asp, has a substrate
vacuum assembly where it does not waste the water. You vacuum the detritus
out of the substrate using the intake of the canister filter system so the
detritus gets filtered out of the water and the water is returned to the
tank. You would have to do more filter maintenance (Here is my blog on the
subject of Filter Maintenance...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html) and instead of doing a large PWC infrequently, it would be better to
do smaller PWC's on a more frequent basis... even if it's only once every
few months.

You should also monitor the KH level in the water and you could use Baking
Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate) to keep the KH level up high enough so you do not
suffer a pH crash. Here is a site with a calculator for dosing a tank with
Baking Soda... http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp.

There are some other products that planted tank owners add to their tanks to
also add essential minerals and other nutrients to the water but you could
use very easy to grow low light plants
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2 or easy
to grow low light plants
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3, then
you would not need special lighting either.

Hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23265 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
It sounds as though you need to improve your technique a bit. If you are
using one of the gravel vacuum siphons, where a large diameter tube is
attached to the siphon hose, you should not have any of the detritus
from the substrate entering the wate column of your tank. It should all
go out through the siphon.

Start your siphon and plunge the tube into the substrate. When the water
starts to run clear, lift the tube out of the substrate and plunge it
into another section. When done regularly, this process does not take
long, nor do you waste any water. I can normally do 25-33% of the
substrate in a regular water change of 10-15%. Once the substrate has
been cleaned, doing it once a month is more than enough to keep it
clean. If the substrate is very dirty (ie. You have not done this
before, or another aspect of your care is causing the substrate to
collect a lot of detritus), you may need to do more frequent water
changes to get it clean, and get on a regular month schedule to clean
the entirety of the substrate.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23266 From: Sharad Tiwari Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Thanks for the answer. But I have been having the aquariums for some years now & have not faced any serious problem.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23267 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
But I’m really curious. How do you control Nitrates??



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sharad Tiwari
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: Algae problem solution and good product



Thanks for the answer. But I have been having the aquariums for some years
now & have not faced any serious problem.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23268 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
Lots of live plants and/or lots of PWC's (partial water changes). Both of
these also help most other aspects of your tank/pond ecology as well.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----


But I’m really curious. How do you control Nitrates??

_____
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23269 From: ribron32 Date: 7/14/2007
Subject: New to group.
Hello everyone.
My name is Duane, and am from minisota, usa. The other day I picked up
a fish tank. It is only 10 gal; but fine for now.
In the past I have had other tanks, and have kept both fresh water and
marine. Still it has been a few years, so I am starting new once again.
I set the tank up with gravel, and the nessary's. I let it cycle for a
week. Yesterday I picked up two tiger barbs, and one drarf grahmys.
At the moment they seel to be doing just fine.
I am looking to turn this into a small planted tank, and would love any
info anyone might have...
Thank you all, _Duane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23270 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: New to group.
Unless you added Bio Spira, you need to let it cycle several more weeks
until you have an ammonia spike, then a nitrite spike, and both those
chemical readings return to zero. Believe the average is 2 months for a
complete cycle. I think you can cycle with the barbs, but not sure about
the gourami. I keep Africans, but hopefully others who keep barbs/gourami
will post. Welcome back to fishkeeping! I restarted two years ago with a
38G and added a 125G last year.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ribron32
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New to group.



Hello everyone.
My name is Duane, and am from minisota, usa. The other day I picked up
a fish tank. It is only 10 gal; but fine for now.
In the past I have had other tanks, and have kept both fresh water and
marine. Still it has been a few years, so I am starting new once again.
I set the tank up with gravel, and the nessary's. I let it cycle for a
week. Yesterday I picked up two tiger barbs, and one drarf grahmys.
At the moment they seel to be doing just fine.
I am looking to turn this into a small planted tank, and would love any
info anyone might have...
Thank you all, _Duane





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23271 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to group.
I have several aquariums up and running so when I add a new think I
will rinse the filter cartridges in the new tank to kick start the
cycling process and it can be as effective as Bio Spira since it is
live bacteria that is being rinsed into the new tank. If you do this
make sure that there is no diseases in the new tank so that you do
not introduce them into your new tank.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Unless you added Bio Spira, you need to let it cycle several more
weeks
> until you have an ammonia spike, then a nitrite spike, and both
those
> chemical readings return to zero. Believe the average is 2 months
for a
> complete cycle. I think you can cycle with the barbs, but not
sure about
> the gourami. I keep Africans, but hopefully others who keep
barbs/gourami
> will post. Welcome back to fishkeeping! I restarted two years
ago with a
> 38G and added a 125G last year.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of ribron32
> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:43 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New to group.
>
>
>
> Hello everyone.
> My name is Duane, and am from minisota, usa. The other day I
picked up
> a fish tank. It is only 10 gal; but fine for now.
> In the past I have had other tanks, and have kept both fresh water
and
> marine. Still it has been a few years, so I am starting new once
again.
> I set the tank up with gravel, and the nessary's. I let it cycle
for a
> week. Yesterday I picked up two tiger barbs, and one drarf
grahmys.
> At the moment they seel to be doing just fine.
> I am looking to turn this into a small planted tank, and would
love any
> info anyone might have...
> Thank you all, _Duane
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23272 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to group.
I always use existing tank filters to cycle a new tank. But I think he said
he was starting anew?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of dreammaker2623
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Re: New to group.



I have several aquariums up and running so when I add a new think I
will rinse the filter cartridges in the new tank to kick start the
cycling process and it can be as effective as Bio Spira since it is
live bacteria that is being rinsed into the new tank. If you do this
make sure that there is no diseases in the new tank so that you do
not introduce them into your new tank.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Unless you added Bio Spira, you need to let it cycle several more
weeks
> until you have an ammonia spike, then a nitrite spike, and both
those
> chemical readings return to zero. Believe the average is 2 months
for a
> complete cycle. I think you can cycle with the barbs, but not
sure about
> the gourami. I keep Africans, but hopefully others who keep
barbs/gourami
> will post. Welcome back to fishkeeping! I restarted two years
ago with a
> 38G and added a 125G last year.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of ribron32
> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2007 8:43 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] New to group.
>
>
>
> Hello everyone.
> My name is Duane, and am from minisota, usa. The other day I
picked up
> a fish tank. It is only 10 gal; but fine for now.
> In the past I have had other tanks, and have kept both fresh water
and
> marine. Still it has been a few years, so I am starting new once
again.
> I set the tank up with gravel, and the nessary's. I let it cycle
for a
> week. Yesterday I picked up two tiger barbs, and one drarf
grahmys.
> At the moment they seel to be doing just fine.
> I am looking to turn this into a small planted tank, and would
love any
> info anyone might have...
> Thank you all, _Duane
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23273 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Intial setup questions
Hi...I am in the middle of filling my 210 gallon tank in my garage (I
resealed it and since I've never done that before, I would rather have
a leak on the concrete floor instead of the wood floor) and I have
noticed that the level is off about 1/4-1/2" over the length. should I
be concerned about uneven pressure on the tank?
Also when I fill it up for good in the house, should I use warm water,
or just let the heaters run overtime? It's going to be a saltwater fish
only tank. What effect will cold (well) water have on the live sand, if
any? And will the heaters (300w x2) be enough to bring it up to 78-80
degrees?
Thanks in advance!!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23274 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
With that size tank, I would certainly be concerned about it being level. I'd empty it again, and level it out before refilling. Be sure it is level front to back as well as side to side.

I've not worked with saltwater or live sand before, so I cannot comment on whether the live sand will withstand water in the 50's being slowly warmed or not. The heaters you have may be sufficient depending on room temperature the tank will be in. If your room temperature is consistently above 70°, you should be OK. If you keep your room cooler than that, you may wish to add another heater to the two you already have.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 12:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Intial setup questions

Hi...I am in the middle of filling my 210 gallon tank in my garage (I
resealed it and since I've never done that before, I would rather have
a leak on the concrete floor instead of the wood floor) and I have
noticed that the level is off about 1/4-1/2" over the length. should I
be concerned about uneven pressure on the tank?
Also when I fill it up for good in the house, should I use warm water,
or just let the heaters run overtime? It's going to be a saltwater fish
only tank. What effect will cold (well) water have on the live sand, if
any? And will the heaters (300w x2) be enough to bring it up to 78-80
degrees?
Thanks in advance!!!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23275 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Thanks....I'll go ahead and level it up. I think level problem is
because of the garage floor being slanted to allow water to drain out.
It's dead on front to rear...even though it's a crappy stand.
I'll keep checking on the cold water versus warm water thing.
Thanks again!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23276 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Algae problem solution and good product
No, I meant the guy who changes water annually.


-----Original Message-----


But I'm really curious. How do you control Nitrates??
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23277 From: chicagobears2010 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: neat lil site
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23278 From: iowakoi Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Using plants to control algae
This summer I learned 1st hand how great a pond can look with enough
plants. I have a top and bottom pond. The top pond is sparking clean and
covered in lilies. The bottom pond is so full of algae you can't hardly
see the fish. The only difference in the ponds is that the top pond has
enough plants and there is only one lily in the bottom pond. The koi
just uses plants as a snack in the bottom pond. It took me a while to
figure out the right number of plants for my pond. I can across these
suggestions and wanted to pass them on. Here's the numbers for each kind
of plant based on common sizes of ponds. 4'x6' 1 Lilly, 5-8 bog plants,
3 floaters, 24 submerged plants. 6'x11' to 11'x11' 2 lilies, 9-13 bog
plants, 6 floaters, 44 submerged plants. 11'x11' to 14'x16' 3 lilies,
10-15 bogs, 8 floaters, 90 submerged plants. 16'x10' to 16'x21' 5
lilies, 13-18 bog plants, 12 floaters, 160 submerged plants. 21'x21' to
26'x 26' 7 lilies, 20-28 bog plants, 15 floaters, 200 submerged plants.

I hope this gives you an idea on the plants you may need to add to get
really good coverage. Happy ponding, Gail

Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23279 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
I would make sure to put some Styrofoam under the tank to even out any
irregularities that the stand might have. Also have you checked to
make sure that the floor will hold over a ton of weight in the spot
that you are going to put it? Yes it will weigh over 2000 pounds when
it is set up and running.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wantvws" <rml1963@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks....I'll go ahead and level it up. I think level problem is
> because of the garage floor being slanted to allow water to drain
out.
> It's dead on front to rear...even though it's a crappy stand.
> I'll keep checking on the cold water versus warm water thing.
> Thanks again!
> Robbie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23280 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> I would make sure to put some Styrofoam under the tank to even out any
> irregularities that the stand might have. Also have you checked to
> make sure that the floor will hold over a ton of weight in the spot
> that you are going to put it? Yes it will weigh over 2000 pounds when
> it is set up and running.

I did reinforce the floor with an 8"x8" oak beam and two screw jacks.
I am also going to position the aquarium so it spans the maximum
number of floor joists, and it is on an outside wall, right next to
the foundation.
As far as styrofoam, I had read that in one of my books, but my new
stand really doesn't lend itself to that too easily, imo. It does not
have a piece of plywood that the tank will sit on, just several 1x4's
that run front to rear. I am actually adding several more boards to be
on the safe side....I can post a photo of the stand if anyone wants to
see it.
Should I still add the foam, or is that more for a stand that has a
plywood top?
Thanks for your reply!
Robbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23281 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
While being level is best, being off by that little bit should not cause
undue stress on the tank. After all, the 210G tank is designed to handle
2,000 pounds of water. As long as your stand is sturdy and does not twist,
warp or bend, you should be OK. Of course, after the test, when you move
the empty tank into the house, try to find a place that is level or use
proper shimming to make it as level as possible.

As far as the water, maybe one of the SW keepers can help but I would advise
against using too much hot water unless you do regular hot water heater
maintenance and flushing to get rid of the multi-inch layer of sediment out
of the bottom of the hot water heater tank.

Any heater can bring a tank up to a certain temperature... depending on the
room/ambient temperature of the room. If the room is 60F and you want the
tank at 70F, you would need less heating capacity then if you wanted the
tank at 80F. I know a general rule of thumb is 2.5 - 5.0 watts per gallon
depending on the ambient temperature of the room. This means you need
500-1000 watts of heat and you are starting with 600 watts so you may be
perfectly OK with what you have. What will be the temperature range of the
room and how fast will the room temp drop if/when it does drop?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 11:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Intial setup questions

Hi...I am in the middle of filling my 210 gallon tank in my garage (I
resealed it and since I've never done that before, I would rather have a
leak on the concrete floor instead of the wood floor) and I have noticed
that the level is off about 1/4-1/2" over the length. should I be concerned
about uneven pressure on the tank?
Also when I fill it up for good in the house, should I use warm water, or
just let the heaters run overtime? It's going to be a saltwater fish only
tank. What effect will cold (well) water have on the live sand, if any? And
will the heaters (300w x2) be enough to bring it up to 78-80 degrees?
Thanks in advance!!!
Robbie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/900 - Release Date: 7/14/2007
3:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23282 From: dreammaker2623 Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
It would not hurt to put the Styrofoam under the tank and above the
plywood. This will also have the effect of insulating the bottom of
the tank. Just imagine if a piece of gravel got stuck under the tank
with a ton of weight on it. Just that little piece of gravel "could"
cause a stress crack

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wantvws" <rml1963@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "dreammaker2623"
> <dreammaker2623@> wrote:
> >
> > I would make sure to put some Styrofoam under the tank to even
out any
> > irregularities that the stand might have. Also have you checked
to
> > make sure that the floor will hold over a ton of weight in the
spot
> > that you are going to put it? Yes it will weigh over 2000 pounds
when
> > it is set up and running.
>
> I did reinforce the floor with an 8"x8" oak beam and two screw
jacks.
> I am also going to position the aquarium so it spans the maximum
> number of floor joists, and it is on an outside wall, right next to
> the foundation.
> As far as styrofoam, I had read that in one of my books, but my new
> stand really doesn't lend itself to that too easily, imo. It does
not
> have a piece of plywood that the tank will sit on, just several
1x4's
> that run front to rear. I am actually adding several more boards
to be
> on the safe side....I can post a photo of the stand if anyone
wants to
> see it.
> Should I still add the foam, or is that more for a stand that has a
> plywood top?
> Thanks for your reply!
> Robbie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23283 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
If the top of the stand is level, you do not need the styrofoam. Is the
tank glass or acrylic? Acrylic is a little more forgiving since it's not as
rigid as glass. The main thing you want is the outside frame and any cross
members to be level and the same dimensions as the outside bottom frame of
the tank and any crossmembers on the bottom of the tank.

I'd like to see a pic of the tank stand if you want to post it. I have my
65G DIY tank stand pictures and instructions/materials for the stand frame,
on my blog at
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-diy-2000-big-tank-stand.html. I'm
surprised they used 1"x4"'s as part of the framing. The smallest wood I
used was 2"x4"'s for the frame of my stand which is for a tank 1/3rd the
size of yours but I realize my stand is capable of holding a much larger
tank based. I think yours is fine though. Mine was overkill. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2007 6:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Intial setup questions

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"dreammaker2623"
<dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> I would make sure to put some Styrofoam under the tank to even out any
> irregularities that the stand might have. Also have you checked to
> make sure that the floor will hold over a ton of weight in the spot
> that you are going to put it? Yes it will weigh over 2000 pounds when
> it is set up and running.

I did reinforce the floor with an 8"x8" oak beam and two screw jacks.
I am also going to position the aquarium so it spans the maximum number of
floor joists, and it is on an outside wall, right next to the foundation.
As far as styrofoam, I had read that in one of my books, but my new stand
really doesn't lend itself to that too easily, imo. It does not have a piece
of plywood that the tank will sit on, just several 1x4's that run front to
rear. I am actually adding several more boards to be on the safe side....I
can post a photo of the stand if anyone wants to see it.
Should I still add the foam, or is that more for a stand that has a plywood
top?
Thanks for your reply!
Robbie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/900 - Release Date: 7/14/2007
3:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23284 From: wantvws Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> If the top of the stand is level, you do not need the styrofoam. Is
the
> tank glass or acrylic? Acrylic is a little more forgiving since it's
not as
> rigid as glass. The main thing you want is the outside frame and any
cross
> members to be level and the same dimensions as the outside bottom
frame of
> the tank and any crossmembers on the bottom of the tank.
>
> I'd like to see a pic of the tank stand if you want to post it. I
have my
> 65G DIY tank stand pictures and instructions/materials for the stand
frame,
> on my blog at
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-diy-2000-big-tank-stand.html.
I'm
> surprised they used 1"x4"'s as part of the framing. The smallest wood
I
> used was 2"x4"'s for the frame of my stand which is for a tank 1/3rd
the
> size of yours but I realize my stand is capable of holding a much
larger
> tank based. I think yours is fine though. Mine was overkill. LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

The tank is glass. I did fill it up in the garage on the old stand (no
leaks-hooray!) after leveling it somewhat. The new stand by Perfecto,
which I have a picture of in an album here
<http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/944e>
, does not have support all the way around the perimeter if the tank
frame. I bought it from my local pet store, and they sell tons of tanks
and stands. All of their wood stands are constructed basically the same
as far as I can tell. Soooo....I'm thinking that it should hold up, but
I think I will add some extra cross pieces next to the existing ones
(see photo). I know that the compression strength of wood is enormous,
but it still looks a little "dainty" to me. But I too tend to overbuild
things...
Let me know what you think about the stand.
I will post more pics as I progress with the installation...I've been
screwing around with this tank long enough, and I am determined to have
the thing running in a month.
Thanks!!
Robbie



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23285 From: EAR Date: 7/15/2007
Subject: Re: neat lil site
What happens in 2010 to the Bears?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23286 From: rick linboom Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: neat lil site
wait and see








____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23287 From: JFazio Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: 2 fish that don't look right
Hi Everyone:

One of my gouramis started looking pale and thin about 3 weeks ago.
I quarantined him. Now this morning, for the first time, one of my
neon rainbowfish has a white bump on his head.

I put the pix up at my Website -

http://www.prioritiesonline.com/fish/neonwbump.JPG - notice that the
neon's bump is at the top of his body, diagonally above his eye.

I have a picture of the sick gourami -
http://www.prioritiesonline.com/fish/thingourami.JPG

Then of one of my healthy ones -
http://www.prioritiesonline.com/fish/normalgourami.JPG - which may
give you an idea as to the difference in each.

Does anyone have an opinion of what is going on with each?

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23288 From: Keri Kimball Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Question about Fungus
Hey everyone I have a question, I noticed that one of my swords has fungus around his mouth. I started right away with putting Primafix in my tank, but I was wondering if I should raise the temp of my tank? I know with ick if you raise the temp of the tank it helps out by not allowing the ick to attch to another fish, is there any little trick for fungus.

Thanks for the help
Keri


Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762

---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23289 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
The stand looks nice and if Perfecto says it will handle a 210G glass tank,
then I'll defer to their experience but if I was building the stand, I'd
want at least 2x4's as the main frame and support and then the other stuff
simply becomes cosmetic but I know furniture isn't always built with
lifetime of use in mind. As long as the wood is real wood and not particle
board, you should get a long life out of the stand. I always cringe when I
see fish tank stands made out of particle board as the structural value of
particle board deteriorates dramatically after it is exposed to water...
which will happen due to spills from PWC's, etc.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23290 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
I used styrofoam once for this purpose. I covered the top of a wooden workbench that came with the cellar of a house I had bought. There was no way to get the bench out without tearing it apart (it was constructed in such a way that it would have been destroyed and made suitable for firewood). I just covered the top of it with Styrofoam I "found" at a building site. It covered the rough spots on the table. Over it, I placed a vinyl covered fabric sort of thing. I forget where that stuff came from, but I had a ton of it. Came in handy for a number of things, and I could clean it or toss it as circumstances allowed.

The stand you show should be smooth and free of irregularities, so the use of styrofoam would be optional. If you were to use styrofoam, then get enough for the area you need to cover and cut it to fit the stand as one or two sheets. This will not only protect the tank from the stand, so to speak, but the bottom of the tank would be protected against accidental bumps and hits when working in the cabinets below, as well as providing a heat barrier.

Cedar shakes make great levelers for a stand like this. If you worry about color coordination, you can stain them to a color close to that of your stand.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23291 From: wantvws Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
A new development with this stand, is that I checked the dimensions
front to rear, and my tank frame is 1/4" wider that the inside of the
stand. Sooo...I have to pull the 3/4" thick cross pieces and replace
them with 1" thick pieces so the tank will sit above the the trim
piece on the stand. Shouldn't be a big deal...most of the tank
frame will still be on the cross pieces. And while I'm making new
cross pieces, I will make the considerably wider than the 3 1/2"
that they are now. All it means aesthetically is that the tank frame
will overhang the front trim piece of my stand.
Thanks!
Robbie
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> The stand looks nice and if Perfecto says it will handle a 210G
glass tank,
> then I'll defer to their experience but if I was building the stand, I'd
> want at least 2x4's as the main frame and support and then the other
stuff
> simply becomes cosmetic but I know furniture isn't always built with
> lifetime of use in mind. As long as the wood is real wood and not
particle
> board, you should get a long life out of the stand. I always cringe
when I
> see fish tank stands made out of particle board as the structural
value of
> particle board deteriorates dramatically after it is exposed to water...
> which will happen due to spills from PWC's, etc.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23292 From: wantvws Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
But would the styrofoam work on this stand since there is no plywood
top? It seems to me that the pressure of the tank on just a few pieces
of styrofoam (about 4" wide) would just crush it down to nothing. I
can see where it would work well for a large surface area, but I don't
know about putting it on my cross pieces.
Thanks!!
Robbie
We have a HUGE variety of white oak shims at work in thicknesses from
.5mm to 6 mm, and they are about 5" square. This is what I plan on
using to shim the stand.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I used styrofoam once for this purpose. I covered the top of a
wooden workbench that came with the cellar of a house I had bought.
There was no way to get the bench out without tearing it apart (it was
constructed in such a way that it would have been destroyed and made
suitable for firewood). I just covered the top of it with Styrofoam I
"found" at a building site. It covered the rough spots on the table.
Over it, I placed a vinyl covered fabric sort of thing. I forget where
that stuff came from, but I had a ton of it. Came in handy for a
number of things, and I could clean it or toss it as circumstances
allowed.
>
> The stand you show should be smooth and free of irregularities, so
the use of styrofoam would be optional. If you were to use styrofoam,
then get enough for the area you need to cover and cut it to fit the
stand as one or two sheets. This will not only protect the tank from
the stand, so to speak, but the bottom of the tank would be protected
against accidental bumps and hits when working in the cabinets below,
as well as providing a heat barrier.
>
> Cedar shakes make great levelers for a stand like this. If you worry
about color coordination, you can stain them to a color close to that
of your stand.
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23293 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
I have done the same as Steve,
I use styrofoam sheets under many of my tanks to help level out a surface.  In one instance I have a two inch piece of foam and notched out a 2 inch wide and inch high piece in the middle of the sheet, in the middle of where the tank sits.  That is where the post stuck up from the pallet racking I use.  There is still a 30 gallon acrylic tank sitting on it right now.  No bowing and no leaks.  You do not need a piece of foam that thick but in this case it was free and happened to work for the situation at hand.

I am setting up another 2 sections of 6 foot racks in my garage this week.  I need to go buy some foam insulation sheeting as I have run out of styrofoam. 

Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23294 From: Melanie Gordon Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I currently have four tanks. 1- 46gallon bowfront with:
2 platys
2 mollies
4 plecos
1 danio
4 ghost shrimp
3 kuli loaches
4 bettas
3 rainbows

2-10gallon tanks both betta spawns
1 has ~75 or so fry
the other has 200+ fry (most recent) - half giants

1 20gallon tank with 20 baby bettas almost ready for departure

I have 17 other containers with betta

tmoore668@... wrote:
I have:

110 gallon reef tank that includes:
Naso Tang
Purple Tang
Heniocus
a few starfish
A couple maroon clowns
yellow goby
and many corals

I also have a 55 gal seahorse tank.
Todd

---- charger9069 <charger9069@...> wrote:
> Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.
>
> I have a couple of tanks here they are:
>
> 2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )
>
> (3)10 gallons:
> 1st- Guppies
> 2nd- Betta
> 3rd- Holding tank
>
> (2) 15 gallons:
> 1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
> 2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs
>
> 55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs
>
> 60 gallon - Demasoni Colony
>
> What are you guys holding?
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23295 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
Yes, it will work fine. The styro is just to ensure that all parts of the tank that are in contact with the stand (without the styro) are under equal pressure. The open area of the stand will probably cause a slight sinking of the styro into that area to bring it level with the stand edges (in this case) and the center cross piece. When you or your survivors move the tank, and remove the styro, you'll (they'll) see the compressed edges and crossbar indented into the bottom of the styro. The kind of styro used in the building trades is already rather tight, and will not compress that much under the weight you will deploy on it. I'm sure there is a site or two on the web that will do a much better job at explaining this than I can.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 7:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Intial setup questions

But would the styrofoam work on this stand since there is no plywood
top? It seems to me that the pressure of the tank on just a few pieces
of styrofoam (about 4" wide) would just crush it down to nothing. I
can see where it would work well for a large surface area, but I don't
know about putting it on my cross pieces.
Thanks!!
Robbie
We have a HUGE variety of white oak shims at work in thicknesses from
.5mm to 6 mm, and they are about 5" square. This is what I plan on
using to shim the stand.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I used styrofoam once for this purpose. I covered the top of a
wooden workbench that came with the cellar of a house I had bought.
There was no way to get the bench out without tearing it apart (it was
constructed in such a way that it would have been destroyed and made
suitable for firewood). I just covered the top of it with Styrofoam I
"found" at a building site. It covered the rough spots on the table.
Over it, I placed a vinyl covered fabric sort of thing. I forget where
that stuff came from, but I had a ton of it. Came in handy for a
number of things, and I could clean it or toss it as circumstances
allowed.
>
> The stand you show should be smooth and free of irregularities, so
the use of styrofoam would be optional. If you were to use styrofoam,
then get enough for the area you need to cover and cut it to fit the
stand as one or two sheets. This will not only protect the tank from
the stand, so to speak, but the bottom of the tank would be protected
against accidental bumps and hits when working in the cabinets below,
as well as providing a heat barrier.
>
> Cedar shakes make great levelers for a stand like this. If you worry
about color coordination, you can stain them to a color close to that
of your stand.
>
> \\Steve//
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23296 From: Foxtrotter Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Sexing Koi/Comets
Does anyone know how to tell if a koi/comet goldfish is a male or female? I
have several koi and several comets and would like to be able to tell them
apart (males/females).

Debbie B
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23297 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Sexing Koi/Comets
Here is a page that will help you with koi.

http://www.nishikigoi-info.com/koi-care/sexing-koi.html

And, for your comets, look here:

http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/4468/faq_biology.html#Q24

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Foxtrotter
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 9:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sexing Koi/Comets

Does anyone know how to tell if a koi/comet goldfish is a male or female? I
have several koi and several comets and would like to be able to tell them
apart (males/females).

Debbie B




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
`..><((((>.`..`.><((((> .`.. , .`..><((((>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<((((><.`..`.<((((><.`.. , .`..<((((><`..
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23298 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Intial setup questions
I agree with you Robbie. Since your stand is designed for the tank frame to
sit on the wood framing of the stand, I would not use Styrofoam for the
reasons you state. If you had a solid top that was slightly irregular, then
the Styrofoam might offset the irregularity but in the case of your stand
(and mine) I don't think it's a good thing.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wantvws
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 6:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Intial setup questions

But would the styrofoam work on this stand since there is no plywood top? It
seems to me that the pressure of the tank on just a few pieces of styrofoam
(about 4" wide) would just crush it down to nothing. I can see where it
would work well for a large surface area, but I don't know about putting it
on my cross pieces.
Thanks!!
Robbie
We have a HUGE variety of white oak shims at work in thicknesses from .5mm
to 6 mm, and they are about 5" square. This is what I plan on using to shim
the stand.
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I used styrofoam once for this purpose. I covered the top of a
wooden workbench that came with the cellar of a house I had bought.
There was no way to get the bench out without tearing it apart (it was
constructed in such a way that it would have been destroyed and made
suitable for firewood). I just covered the top of it with Styrofoam I
"found" at a building site. It covered the rough spots on the table.
Over it, I placed a vinyl covered fabric sort of thing. I forget where that
stuff came from, but I had a ton of it. Came in handy for a number of
things, and I could clean it or toss it as circumstances allowed.
>
> The stand you show should be smooth and free of irregularities, so
the use of styrofoam would be optional. If you were to use styrofoam, then
get enough for the area you need to cover and cut it to fit the stand as one
or two sheets. This will not only protect the tank from the stand, so to
speak, but the bottom of the tank would be protected against accidental
bumps and hits when working in the cabinets below, as well as providing a
heat barrier.
>
> Cedar shakes make great levelers for a stand like this. If you worry
about color coordination, you can stain them to a color close to that of
your stand.
>
> \\Steve//
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007
2:21 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23299 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Fungus
I wouldn't raise the temp with most meds since raising the temp lowers the
O2 level in the water... unless you are also able to increase
aeration/surface agitation to keep the O2 levels up.

Are you sure it's a fungus? There are some bacterial infections that look
like a fungus... especially when around the mouth of a fish. Go to this
site, http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html and look at the pictures to
find what you have and then follow their treatment.... or you could use
Melafix/Pimafix as a cocktail to treat the bacterial/fungal issue at the
same time.

Just to clear up a little possible confusion on your part about Ich...
raising the temp does not stop Ich from spreading to other fish. Raising
the temp speeds up the lifecycle of the Ich so your meds or salt treatment
can kill the Ich when it's in it's most vulnerable life-stage. Without
raising the temp, your treatment would still work but it would take 2-3
times longer.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Keri Kimball
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2007 2:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about Fungus

Hey everyone I have a question, I noticed that one of my swords has fungus
around his mouth. I started right away with putting Primafix in my tank, but
I was wondering if I should raise the temp of my tank? I know with ick if
you raise the temp of the tank it helps out by not allowing the ick to attch
to another fish, is there any little trick for fungus.

Thanks for the help
Keri

Keri

Lady Fabric Hoarder

WIP: February Birthstone Fairy, Baby Sampler
Photos: http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762
<http://community.webshots.com/user/kiwi762>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.6/902 - Release Date: 7/15/2007
2:21 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23300 From: jakesmomma06 Date: 7/16/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
We have (3) 1 gallon betta tanks with a male betta in each
One 150 gallon tank with red ear sliders, apple or mystery snails

40 gallon:
pleco
ghost shrimp
danios
pleco
mystery snails
male betta
guppies
catfish
algae eating catfish
dalmation molly

10 gallon goldfish tank

10 gallon female betta tank with ghost shrimp

10 gallon hospital tank with a catfish that went spastic in the
tropical community tank and hit his face against the glass and has an
open sore. We're not sure what scared him but he went crazy swimming
furiously around the 40 gallon tank and even trying to jump out of the
water!! Any ideas what caused this??????








--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "charger9069" <charger9069@...> wrote:
>
> Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.
>
> I have a couple of tanks here they are:
>
> 2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )
>
> (3)10 gallons:
> 1st- Guppies
> 2nd- Betta
> 3rd- Holding tank
>
> (2) 15 gallons:
> 1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
> 2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs
>
> 55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs
>
> 60 gallon - Demasoni Colony
>
> What are you guys holding?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23301 From: friendtoallfish Date: 7/17/2007
Subject: couple questions
I finally got my tank straightened out. It is in perfect condition
now. The questions I had were 1- how big do angelfish need to be in
order to breed. 2- I am interested in german blue rams and gold rams
would they be compatable with angelfish.I have gotten so much bad info
from the pet stores and online that I just don't know. This group has
helped me in so many ways that I trust these groups more than I do
anyone else. I have also learned the hard way to ALWAYS qt fish BEFORE
adding them lol. Thanks a million. Pearly p.s. tank readings are 0-
ammonia, 0-nitrite, 20- nitrates just to see if they would fit nicely
in my tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23302 From: Foxtrotter Date: 7/17/2007
Subject: Re: Sexing Koi/Comets
thank you, now I know which is which.

Debbie

----- Original Message -----


> Here is a page that will help you with koi.
>
> http://www.nishikigoi-info.com/koi-care/sexing-koi.html
>
> And, for your comets, look here:
>
> http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/4468/faq_biology.html#Q24
>
> \\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23303 From: Heather Date: 7/18/2007
Subject: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Need a link or site that shows pics of sic fish! Looked to be ick and
treated as such, it's just getting worse and I can't stand to see my
babies die!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23304 From: Heather Date: 7/18/2007
Subject: Need a link to a fish disease site!!! ASAP
Oscars looked like thay had ick, treated but just getting
worse...HELP!!!!!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23305 From: Farscape Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Is it perhaps white, fuzzy patches?

That would most likely be a fungus... But, my best suggestion would be
using BOTH MelaFix & PimaFix and see if that doesn't help.

-Do a good water change first, and if the water temp is not over 81-82
deg. F right now, raise the water temp. 2F (water over 84F can stress
Oscars, but water around 82F or at least 2F over the prior temp can
stress out some bacteria & other organisms like Ick enough to kill 'em).

Oscars usually do best in 80-82F water, FWIW.


I've had several adult O's over the years, and I've found (esp. in
cooler water or when it's over-due for a water change) that O's
sometimes get a fungal infection after a scratch.

Usually, changing the water, and treating the scratch or infection (esp.
if it covers more than just a small area) will bring 'em around to good
health in no time.


If the water is OK (clean & warm), then make sure there's nothing else
stressing out the O a lot. -Stress is usually the real cause of Ick,
and the cause of a fungus taking hold when a scratch or missing scale
occurs.

If there's a new tank mate or one that chases or nips at your O, you
might move the O or other fish to another tank until the O heals.

Low dissolved Oxygen is also a stressor and some bacteria & fungus like
such conditions as well - increasing the aeration can help if so.


BTW, once the infection is gone, you can drop the heat back down -
again, 80-82F is best, but it should be at least 78F. (If it's not in
this range now, you can increase it about 2F per 24 hrs., so as not to
stress out the fish even more.)


Heather wrote, On 7/18/2007 8:23 PM:
> Need a link or site that shows pics of sic fish! Looked to be ick and
> treated as such, it's just getting worse and I can't stand to see my
> babies die!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23306 From: Allie Forst Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
what exactly is wrong with them? they can also get
hole in the head very easily.
--- AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <Farscape@...>
wrote:
> Is it perhaps white, fuzzy patches?
>
> That would most likely be a fungus... But, my best
suggestion would be
> using BOTH MelaFix & PimaFix and see if that doesn't
help.
>
> -Do a good water change first, and if the water temp
is not over 81-82
> deg. F right now, raise the water temp. 2F (water
over 84F can stress
> Oscars, but water around 82F or at least 2F over the
prior temp can
> stress out some bacteria & other organisms like Ick
enough to kill 'em).
>
> Oscars usually do best in 80-82F water, FWIW.
>
>
> I've had several adult O's over the years, and I've
found (esp. in
> cooler water or when it's over-due for a water
change) that O's
> sometimes get a fungal infection after a scratch.
>
> Usually, changing the water, and treating the
scratch or infection (esp.
> if it covers more than just a small area) will bring
'em around to good
> health in no time.
>
>
> If the water is OK (clean & warm), then make sure
there's nothing else
> stressing out the O a lot. -Stress is usually the
real cause of Ick,
> and the cause of a fungus taking hold when a scratch
or missing scale
> occurs.
>
> If there's a new tank mate or one that chases or
nips at your O, you
> might move the O or other fish to another tank until
the O heals.
>
> Low dissolved Oxygen is also a stressor and some
bacteria & fungus like
> such conditions as well - increasing the aeration
can help if so.
>
>
> BTW, once the infection is gone, you can drop the
heat back down -
> again, 80-82F is best, but it should be at least
78F. (If it's not in
> this range now, you can increase it about 2F per 24
hrs., so as not to
> stress out the fish even more.)
>
>
> Heather wrote, On 7/18/2007 8:23 PM:
> > Need a link or site that shows pics of sic fish!
Looked to be ick and
> > treated as such, it's just getting worse and I
can't stand to see my
> > babies die!




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23307 From: Debbie Swick Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Heather, Good luck on getting your O' s better.. I wish I had some really good site to send you.. there is some in the links files of the aquarium group.. check them out.. I also really love O's..If I had more room in my house I would have one... so I really understand how you feel... I just lost everything in my saltwater tank.. almost gave up on it... so keep us inform... Debbie/ca

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23308 From: Heather Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
My babies were living in a 150 gallon tank until what looked like ick
arrived...after treating for such it only got worse, their slime coats
are peeling, the center of their eyes are are white and gummy looking,
and they are quite listless. AS reccommended by our fish store we have
begun tetracycline treatment in our 40 gallon tank water temp is the
same and it only has extra airation and filtration withNO carbon....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23309 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
What treatment did you use to treat Ick and are you 100% certain it was Ick?

When replying to emails, please leave the previous important parts of the
thread/email intact. It's difficult to follow the thread when there is only
a reply without the original email for which the reply is being made.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Heather
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 2:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!

My babies were living in a 150 gallon tank until what looked like ick
arrived...after treating for such it only got worse, their slime coats are
peeling, the center of their eyes are are white and gummy looking, and they
are quite listless. AS reccommended by our fish store we have begun
tetracycline treatment in our 40 gallon tank water temp is the same and it
only has extra airation and filtration withNO carbon....


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date: 7/18/2007
3:30 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23310 From: Hez Lat Date: 7/19/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
It is not ick it is a fungus that looked like ick in very beginning .... treating with tetracycline, primafix, and stress coat... killed a small cichlid in less than 12 hours and the babies (11 month old oscars) are still fighting to live.... O did two bath to wash gills and accumulating fungus...after this last 're-tanking' the fungus seems to be slowing down now... Thanks for your concern and help :D

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: What treatment did you use to treat Ick and are you 100% certain it was Ick?

When replying to emails, please leave the previous important parts of the
thread/email intact. It's difficult to follow the thread when there is only
a reply without the original email for which the reply is being made.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Heather
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 2:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!

My babies were living in a 150 gallon tank until what looked like ick
arrived...after treating for such it only got worse, their slime coats are
peeling, the center of their eyes are are white and gummy looking, and they
are quite listless. AS reccommended by our fish store we have begun
tetracycline treatment in our 40 gallon tank water temp is the same and it
only has extra airation and filtration withNO carbon....


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date: 7/18/2007
3:30 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Building a website is a piece of cake.
Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23311 From: Leslie Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Heaters for small tanks
I have 2 Eclipse systems newly up and going but I don't know which
heaters to use for them. Most heaters seem way too large then there
are those that don't keep a steady temp but rather keep it a degree or
two above the reg. water temperature.
Are there any adjustable heaters that will work on a 3 gal. and 6 gal
acrylic tank?

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23312 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
Since it has been established that this is a Fungus, I would think
the the addition of salt as with a progressive (amount increased over
time) salt treatment (bath), might be of some help here since most
Fungus secumb to salt. I would not consider giving the fish a salt
dip though, since that has the temporary effect of weakening the fish
towards the end of the treatment time, markedly depending on the
strength of the solution.

At this point in time, going by the description of the affected fish,
it would seem that such a strong temporary (usually 10 to 20 minutes)
dip should be avoided, over progressively adding a more comfortable
salt solution level to be maintained for the duration of the
treatment unless it becomes more urgent to do so. The addition of
salt should also induce the production of the slime coating, being
lost at this time, eliminating the unnecessary need for Stress Coat,
which is not helping rid the disease. Oscars should easily be able
to endure up to 6 tsp. salt per gallon, added over an extended (3+
days) period, while the treatment is ongoing.

While the antibiotic, Tetracycline, is a medication I've seen work
wonders in bacterial infection situations, I can't say that I'd
recommend this choice for fungal infections, unless CMT-3 (chemically
modified Tetracycline were used, which is not available in the
tropical fish trade. CMT-308 and CMT-315 would equally work well
against such fungal infections, but we can only hope for their
availability in the future. Tetracycline is great against Fin and
Tail rot and also against Mouth Fungus, but then again "Mouth Fungus"
is a bacterial disease. The natural anti-fungal Pimafix should help
in this regard, however, but I would consider employing Ketocanazole
(by Thomas Labs), or Maracyn (by Mardel) even though this latter
product (Erythromycin) is primarily an anti-biotic; it is effective
against fungus.

If the Tetracycline treatment remains to be the preferred way to go,
please be advised this medication fast loses its effectiveness in a
pH of 7.5 and above, especially in harder water, due to its affinity
to bind with calcium and magnesium at that range.

A Formalin-based medication, with or without an added dye (Malachite
Green or Gentian-Violet) is effective in many cases, but I've seen
bad results when treating fish with unprotected (little protective
mucus) eyes, as yours seem to be. Kordon's Formalin-3 is one of the
better (milder) ones, though. The dye Acriflavin may be added to
your present treatment, which is efficiently anti-fungal, and may be
used moderately freely (slightly more than what is generally
recommended) without fear of any harmful effects. Keep us posted on
your progress. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Hez Lat <hezlat2000@...> wrote:
>
> It is not ick it is a fungus that looked like ick in very
beginning .... treating with tetracycline, primafix, and stress
coat... killed a small cichlid in less than 12 hours and the babies
(11 month old oscars) are still fighting to live.... O did two bath
to wash gills and accumulating fungus...after this last 're-tanking'
the fungus seems to be slowing down now... Thanks for your concern
and help :D
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: What treatment did
you use to treat Ick and are you 100% certain it was Ick?
>
> When replying to emails, please leave the previous important parts
of the
> thread/email intact. It's difficult to follow the thread when there
is only
> a reply without the original email for which the reply is being
made.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Heather
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2007 2:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
>
> My babies were living in a 150 gallon tank until what looked like
ick
> arrived...after treating for such it only got worse, their slime
coats are
> peeling, the center of their eyes are are white and gummy looking,
and they
> are quite listless. AS reccommended by our fish store we have begun
> tetracycline treatment in our 40 gallon tank water temp is the same
and it
> only has extra airation and filtration withNO carbon....
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.9/907 - Release Date:
7/18/2007
> 3:30 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Building a website is a piece of cake.
> Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23313 From: quelchjulie Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Hi im new
Hi folks

My name is julie and im from the uk,i would just like to say thankyou
for having me here,im new to fish keeping and im hoping from this
group i can learn how to keep fish hopefully with out too many
problems,once again thankyou for having me here.
best regards
julie
xx
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23314 From: Kandyce Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Need some help with plants....
Hello,
I am new to the group and need a little help. I have just got a tank
and have not had one in years. We decided to go with real plants and
now they are dying. They were fine for the first month or so but now
are getting brown spots and some of the stems are turning brown. I
have no idea what could be wrong or what to do. Can someone help?
Thanks,
Kandyce
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23315 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Pond fish poisoned
I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
sterilizer on the pond.

Sam Palermo, Chicago area
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23316 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!!!!!!!! Sick OSCARS!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures and
descriptions of most fish diseases/parasites, as well as diagnosis and
treatment options. Ick is fairly simple to diagnose and treat.

Here is a page on treatment of Ich for cichlids.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php The main thing is to diagnose
it properly and not to undiagnosed treatment procedures which could make
things worse.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23317 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Need some help with plants....
Hi Kandyce,

I am no expert on plants but there were times that I had live ones in my
tank.
I also read magazines about aquariums which sometimes address this issue.
You did not mention fish in this tank are there some? The plants will
need lots of light and not
the week kind plus the light has to be on a good amount of time. Without
fish in the tank
the waste that they make both in CO2 and Nitrate is missing. If there
are not fish have you been
feeding a plant food? Also during the night the oxygen level may be
dropping to low due to lack of aeration
of the water. To get a good handle on this consult a person who grows
the same types of plants with
success and see how they do it. Also a study of the chemistry of water
plants may help you understand
the missing element in the cycle of the plant.
It could be as easy as the lamp color you are using is not sufficient
for the plant's needs if it is one of the purple tinted ones
I think plants like yellow green type light.

Sam

Kandyce wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I am new to the group and need a little help. I have just got a tank
> and have not had one in years. We decided to go with real plants and
> now they are dying. They were fine for the first month or so but now
> are getting brown spots and some of the stems are turning brown. I
> have no idea what could be wrong or what to do. Can someone help?
> Thanks,
> Kandyce
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23318 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Heaters for small tanks
The smallest in tank adjustable heater I've seen around lately is a 25 watt heater. This would be OK for your 6 gallon, though still a bit much, but definitely would not do for your 3 gallon. There are some mat heaters out there that do keep a tank x° over room temperature, which might work for your 3, but I'd suggest no heater, and keep fish that can withstand the temperature variations that will be inherent in that tank, so long as the room temperature does not go below the mid-60's.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Leslie
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 9:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heaters for small tanks

I have 2 Eclipse systems newly up and going but I don't know which
heaters to use for them. Most heaters seem way too large then there
are those that don't keep a steady temp but rather keep it a degree or
two above the reg. water temperature.
Are there any adjustable heaters that will work on a 3 gal. and 6 gal
acrylic tank?

Thanks,
Leslie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23319 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Sorry to hear that Sam…We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese brand
that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven’t had
any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we don’t
have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere that
included fish food …I don’t remember where, so you might want to do a Google
search and see.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sam Palermo
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned



I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
sterilizer on the pond.

Sam Palermo, Chicago area





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23320 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hi sam

Im so sorry to hear about your fish,i wish i could be off help but im new to
fish keeping,
best regards
julie
xx


>From: "Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:30:18 -0500
>
>Sorry to hear that Sam�We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese brand
>that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven�t had
>any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we don�t
>have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere that
>included fish food �I don�t remember where, so you might want to do a
>Google
>search and see.
>
>
>
>Eric
>
>
>
>From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>Behalf Of Sam Palermo
>Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>
>
>
>I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
>pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
>been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
>I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
>fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
>came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
>Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
>sterilizer on the pond.
>
>Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

_________________________________________________________________
Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN. http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23321 From: Snert Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
From what I understand, that "additive" has been present in fish foods
for a long time. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard. I
wouldn't doubt it. Maybe that's why all fish foods for the pet trade
say "not suitable for fish for human consumption". Just a thought.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> sterilizer on the pond.
>
> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23322 From: Wendie Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
These items were recalled...
HBH Pet Products, Inc. is voluntarily recalling certain fish found to contain the contaminant melamine. Listed products are included in the recall;

20002 Crab and Lobster Bites 1.3oz
11012 Goldfish Bites 1.5oz
11013 Goldfish Nibblets 4.3oz
11024 Goldfish Nibblets 8.0oz
11015 Goldfish Nibblets 32oz
11016 Goldfish Nuggets 32oz
25000 Shrimp Pellets 1.6oz
25001 Shrimp Pellets 4.6oz
25002 Shrimp Pellets 9.1oz
22001 African Cichlid Attack 3.8oz
22008 African Cichlid Attack 8.0oz
22009 African Cichlid Attack 28oz
11017 Oscar Bites 1oz
11018 Oscar Grow 3.8oz
11019 Oscar Show 8oz
22012 Super Cichlid Sinkers 29oz
20007 Baby Bites 1.2oz
37019 TopFin Shrimp Pellets 4.6oz
37018 TopFin Shrimp Pellets 9.1oz

----- Original Message -----
From: Snert
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned


From what I understand, that "additive" has been present in fish foods
for a long time. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard. I
wouldn't doubt it. Maybe that's why all fish foods for the pet trade
say "not suitable for fish for human consumption". Just a thought.

Snert

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> sterilizer on the pond.
>
> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23323 From: April Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
What I would suggest that you do is check the ingredients. If there is
wheat gluten in the food then stop feeding it to them. I would think
that all the pet stores would have pulled all the recalled food but you
never know. Just check the ingredients. April





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> sterilizer on the pond.
>
> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23324 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Thanks April,

It has Corn Gluten Meal as the 6th ingredient. I have stopped feeding
them the food and Petsmart is going to get a
call from me to instruct them that I am returning this food, disputing
the charge and once I have lab results for this
poisoning I will talking to my attorney about either a class action or a
suit for mental distress and whatever else.
I feel like loading my gun and taking a visit to Hartz mountain. I have
about 7 fish dead now. Only one died in the last
4 years. This is ridiculous that the government allows this stuff to
happen even if it is "ONLY" a pet. I don't think of it that way!

Sam,

April wrote:
>
> What I would suggest that you do is check the ingredients. If there is
> wheat gluten in the food then stop feeding it to them. I would think
> that all the pet stores would have pulled all the recalled food but you
> never know. Just check the ingredients. April
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> > pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> > been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> > I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> > fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> > came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> > Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> > sterilizer on the pond.
> >
> > Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23325 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Thanks for the response Julie,

It seems that Petsmart and Wardley will get no more business from me as
well as my telling
everyone else how they poisoned my fish. I have to get my own website
going to expose the
time share crooks and cut-throats like these guys only interested in
making a buck.
Now they are going to wish they did not.

Sam,

Julie Quelch wrote:
> Hi sam
>
> Im so sorry to hear about your fish,i wish i could be off help but im new to
> fish keeping,
> best regards
> julie
> xx
>
>
>
>> From: "Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
>> Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:30:18 -0500
>>
>> Sorry to hear that Sam...We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese brand
>> that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven't had
>> any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we don't
>> have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere that
>> included fish food ...I don't remember where, so you might want to do a
>> Google
>> search and see.
>>
>>
>>
>> Eric
>>
>>
>>
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>>
>>
>>
>> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
>> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
>> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
>> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
>> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
>> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
>> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
>> sterilizer on the pond.
>>
>> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN. http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23326 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Thanks for the list Wendie,
It seems that Wardley is not on that list but Pond TEN should be now added.
There is too much a coincidence that now 7 fish have died due to the
start of the use of
this food. Where do I get an Autopsy done on a fish? I wish I new Quincy.

Sam,

Wendie wrote:
>
> These items were recalled...
> HBH Pet Products, Inc. is voluntarily recalling certain fish found to
> contain the contaminant melamine. Listed products are included in the
> recall;
>
> 20002 Crab and Lobster Bites 1.3oz
> 11012 Goldfish Bites 1.5oz
> 11013 Goldfish Nibblets 4.3oz
> 11024 Goldfish Nibblets 8.0oz
> 11015 Goldfish Nibblets 32oz
> 11016 Goldfish Nuggets 32oz
> 25000 Shrimp Pellets 1.6oz
> 25001 Shrimp Pellets 4.6oz
> 25002 Shrimp Pellets 9.1oz
> 22001 African Cichlid Attack 3.8oz
> 22008 African Cichlid Attack 8.0oz
> 22009 African Cichlid Attack 28oz
> 11017 Oscar Bites 1oz
> 11018 Oscar Grow 3.8oz
> 11019 Oscar Show 8oz
> 22012 Super Cichlid Sinkers 29oz
> 20007 Baby Bites 1.2oz
> 37019 TopFin Shrimp Pellets 4.6oz
> 37018 TopFin Shrimp Pellets 9.1oz
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Snert
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 7:26 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned
>
> >From what I understand, that "additive" has been present in fish foods
> for a long time. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard. I
> wouldn't doubt it. Maybe that's why all fish foods for the pet trade
> say "not suitable for fish for human consumption". Just a thought.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> > pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> > been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> > I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> > fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> > came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> > Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> > sterilizer on the pond.
> >
> > Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23327 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hi Snert,

You may be correct, I will be posting my results big time once I find
out and those
companies are going to get plenty of negative advertising from me.

Sam,

Snert wrote:
>
> From what I understand, that "additive" has been present in fish foods
> for a long time. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard. I
> wouldn't doubt it. Maybe that's why all fish foods for the pet trade
> say "not suitable for fish for human consumption". Just a thought.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> > pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> > been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> > I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> > fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> > came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> > Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> > sterilizer on the pond.
> >
> > Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23328 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hi sam

Your welcome.Gosh mate im sorry petsmart and wardley are doing this to you,i
dont blame you not going there any more after what they have done to you,you
are right mate they are crooks,nasty ones at that.
hugs
julie
xx


>From: Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 13:38:35 -0500
>
>Thanks for the response Julie,
>
>It seems that Petsmart and Wardley will get no more business from me as
>well as my telling
>everyone else how they poisoned my fish. I have to get my own website
>going to expose the
>time share crooks and cut-throats like these guys only interested in
>making a buck.
>Now they are going to wish they did not.
>
>Sam,
>
>Julie Quelch wrote:
> > Hi sam
> >
> > Im so sorry to hear about your fish,i wish i could be off help but im
>new to
> > fish keeping,
> > best regards
> > julie
> > xx
> >
> >
> >
> >> From: "Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
> >> Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> >> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
> >> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2007 23:30:18 -0500
> >>
> >> Sorry to hear that Sam...We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese
>brand
> >> that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven't
>had
> >> any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we
>don't
> >> have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere
>that
> >> included fish food ...I don't remember where, so you might want to do a
> >> Google
> >> search and see.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Eric
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>On
> >> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
> >> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
> >> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >> Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> >> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> >> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> >> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> >> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> >> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> >> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> >> sterilizer on the pond.
> >>
> >> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >>
> >>
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN.
>http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> > ���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important
>to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
>SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

_________________________________________________________________
Tell MSN about your most memorable emails! http://www.emailbritain.co.uk/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23329 From: Pickles Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
I also heard early on that during the pet food recalls, that they had been using Melamine alone for years and never had a problem...here is one of a very few articles that talk about it....I think everyone was trying to pass the buck as to who was blame...I even heard one story that poision was actually found in the pet food...and that PETA was to blame...which I wouldnt put past them...but I think that was all talk and imo it was prob accidental....but here a couple of articles about it and the one at the bottom says they can test for it..so you might want to ask them about it...is there a date on the fish food you have? Just courious...I cook for my dogs but did have a few cans of dog food on my shelves for emergencies, and I threw them all out...I wasnt taking any chances...let us know what you find out....
also have you tested your water for high amonia etc...and made sure there isnt an algea bloom happening? or anything else that might be killing your fish? ....Mary


http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.htm
Tainted pet food: Lab says melamine not only culprit
Updated 74d ago | Comments 47 | Recommend 20 E-mail | Save | Print | Reprints & Permissions |



By Elizabeth Weise, USA TODAY
Melamine combined with a related chemical - rather than melamine alone - likely caused the kidney damage in pets that ate tainted food, one lab investigating the case has found.
The finding by a laboratory in Ontario, Canada, appears to substantiate many scientists' theory that the melamine found in wheat gluten and rice protein concentrate used in recalled pet food did not fully explain the foods' apparent toxic effects on some animals that ate it.


STORY: Poisoned pet food seems to hit cats harder
The other chemical, cyanuric acid, can be produced during the making of melamine.

Used in pool cleaning, it has also been found in samples of recalled pet food.

FIND MORE STORIES IN: James Kapin
A team at the University of Guelph showed crystals formed in the kidneys of pets that ate food with the tainted ingredients are close to 50% melamine and 50% cyanuric acid.

"We took some ordinary cat urine and added three drops of melamine and three drops of cyanuric acid, and we got the identical crystals that we see in the kidneys" of the affected cats, said team leader Brent Hoff, a clinical toxicologist and pathologist at the university's Animal Health Laboratory.

Previous research had found melamine alone to be relatively non-toxic. It is used to make plastic.

The formation of these crystals in the kidneys appears to be the primary cause of renal failure in the affected animals, said Wilson Rumbeiha, a toxicologist at Michigan State University who is reviewing pathology reports on animal deaths related to melamine.

The FDA says melamine was added to two food ingredients, wheat gluten and rice protein concentrate, because it is high in nitrogen and makes the grain product look as if it is higher in protein - and therefore worth more - than it actually is. The ingredients were imported from China.

Pure melamine makes clear, rectangular or needle-like crystals. The melamine-cyanuric acid mix forms crystals that are round and yellow to dark brown, said Hoff.

Melamine is composed of carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen. In China, it is often made from coal, said James Kapin, a member of the American Chemical Society's chemical health and safety committee.

The coal is turned to a gas, and nitrogen-rich compounds are extracted from it. After more steps, the end result is melamine.

Melamine and cyanuric acid are chemically very closely related, said Kapin. So cyanuric acid could be created at several points in the processing of melamine.

As melamine prices have risen, melamine scrap may been substituted for pure melamine.

The Chinese company that sold the tainted wheat gluten had advertised for melamine scrap on websites before the pet-food recall.

Posted 74d ago

************************************************
Go to website to read more and where to send etc

http://www.eurofinsus.com/Item.html_itemNews/News_2007-04-24.html?gclid=CLvh6Km3uY0CFRK1YgoduS10LQ
Eurofins offers Melamine testing
Eurofins has reacted rapidly to the current pet food crisis by offering its customers an FDA-approved test for the presence of melamine through its network of labs in both Europe and the US. Several pet food manufacturers have already been forced to recall their products following the contamination with melamine of these products and their ingredients, notably wheat gluten and rice protein concentrate. For further information about our capabilities in the US, the following team members are able to assist:

For technical questions, please contact:

Eurofins Central Analytical Laboratories
John Reuther, President
JReuther@...
(504) 297-3400
Eurofins Scientific, Inc.
Lars Reimann, Chief Scientific Officer
LarsReimann@...
(901) 301-8425


For questions regarding sample submittal, please contact:

Eurofins Central Analytical Laboratories
Lucy Pilgrim, Customer Service
LPilgrim@...
(504) 297-3400
Eurofins Central Analytical Laboratories
Cindy Foster, Customer Service
CFoster@...
(504) 297-3400


For questions regarding our capabilities in Europe, please contact Eurofins Wietz-Eggert-Jörissen at service@.... To download our technical information sheet, click here.




----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned


Thanks for the list Wendie,
It seems that Wardley is not on that list but Pond TEN should be now added.
There is too much a coincidence that now 7 fish have died due to the
start of the use of
this food. Where do I get an Autopsy done on a fish? I wish I new Quincy.

Sam,

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Snert
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 7:26 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned
>
> >From what I understand, that "additive" has been present in fish foods
> for a long time. I could be wrong, but that's what I heard. I
> wouldn't doubt it. Maybe that's why all fish foods for the pet trade
> say "not suitable for fish for human consumption". Just a thought.
>
> Snert
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> > pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> > been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> > I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> > fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> > came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> > Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> > sterilizer on the pond.
> >
> > Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23330 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hello Mary,

The pond has been established and has a water test done on it just after
this fish event.
All readings are good except the Nitrite was a little high. The pond has
since been purged
of about 25% water replaced with fresh. This is in case it was not the
food but other environmental
conditions. The fish up to this point have been very healthy and have
even reproduced for the last two
years. I am cleaning the in pond filter about every month and there are
two external filters taking out
leaves and other particulates. I have no problem with the algae or no
ammonia seems to be the issue.
I on the arrival of home run a pump to aerate the water throwing it in
the air and I have noticed the
fish like it so much that they swim into the jet and like to take a ride
into the air a few inches.
I am still looking for signs of the reason for this but at this point
all the other fish seem healthy and
swimming around. Those effected before the died- at least the ones I saw
were kind of floating funny.
There is a water squirt device activated by intruders using an infrared
sensor- it squirts me sometimes when
I forget to turn it off- it covers the whole pond. These feeders
purchased at 3/4" are now up to 8" long.
I call them snapping turtles because when I show up at the edge they all
come running mouths agoin.
Petsmarts customer service says they have no other complaints about the
food- I asked the guy what
would happen if I ate some- they do a lot better testing on Humans than
animals. Well I haven't tried any yet.
Thanks for your note.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
Pickles wrote:
>
> I also heard early on that during the pet food recalls, that they had
> been using Melamine alone for years and never had a problem...here is
> one of a very few articles that talk about it....I think everyone was
> trying to pass the buck as to who was blame...I even heard one story
> that poision was actually found in the pet food...and that PETA was to
> blame...which I wouldnt put past them...but I think that was all talk
> and imo it was prob accidental....but here a couple of articles about
> it and the one at the bottom says they can test for it..so you might
> want to ask them about it...is there a date on the fish food you have?
> Just courious...I cook for my dogs but did have a few cans of dog food
> on my shelves for emergencies, and I threw them all out...I wasnt
> taking any chances...let us know what you find out....
> also have you tested your water for high amonia etc...and made sure
> there isnt an algea bloom happening? or anything else that might be
> killing your fish? ....Mary
>
> http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.htm
> <http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.htm>
>
> .
> ._,___


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23331 From: Bridget Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: New member
Hi
I have just joined the group and just wanted to say hello. I have tanks
set up all over the house and the occupants range from goldfish to
african clawed frogs. I have just been given an Axolotl is there any
one else here that has the experience of owning one of these amazing
creatures? I look forward to getting know you all
Bridget
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23332 From: Bridget Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Hi

I am new too and I also live in the UK,

I have been a fish keeper for about three years so I am no expert but it is a great hobby.

Bridget
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23333 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
You should take a series of water samples and test them with your test kits
for the basics to make sure something didn't go wrong with your cycle or
that you haven't had a nitrate explosion do to a dead fish or something.
Then have another water sample and one of the dead fish (preserve the next
one in your refrigerator in zip-loc bags) tested by your local university
lab for everything they can test for to see if it is some other poison in
your water or some pathogen is causing the deaths. These tests will also
support or shoot down any proposed litigation you are considering. A
necropsy of one of your fish by a competent lab will confirm the cause of
death.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sam Palermo
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 1:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned

Thanks April,

It has Corn Gluten Meal as the 6th ingredient. I have stopped feeding them
the food and Petsmart is going to get a call from me to instruct them that I
am returning this food, disputing the charge and once I have lab results for
this poisoning I will talking to my attorney about either a class action or
a suit for mental distress and whatever else.
I feel like loading my gun and taking a visit to Hartz mountain. I have
about 7 fish dead now. Only one died in the last
4 years. This is ridiculous that the government allows this stuff to happen
even if it is "ONLY" a pet. I don't think of it that way!

Sam,

April wrote:
>
> What I would suggest that you do is check the ingredients. If there is
> wheat gluten in the food then stop feeding it to them. I would think
> that all the pet stores would have pulled all the recalled food but you
> never know. Just check the ingredients. April
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> > pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> > been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> > I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> > fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> > came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> > Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> > sterilizer on the pond.
> >
> > Sam Palermo, Chicago area
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007
4:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23334 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
How high was the nitrite? In a properly cycled and balanced tank/pond there
should not be any ammonia or nitrite readings. If you had a nitrite
reading, then it means something happened to raise the bioload of pond or
something killed off some of your nitrifying bacteria in your pond. How big
is the pond and how many fish (and inches of fish) do you have?

Your fish could be suffering from nitrite poisoning... brown blood disorder.
While you are having a nitrite issue, you should be dosing your pond with
salt. You don't need much to protect the fish from nitrite poisoning. One
teaspoon will treat around 400 gallons of water and protect the fish from up
to 2 ppm of nitrite.

What are you nitrate, KH, GH and pH readings also... and high/low water
temperatures each day?

I notice you mention that you only turn on the pump to aerate the water when
you get home. What is the water temperature during the day? The warmer the
water, the less O2 that the water will hold. If your days are getting
really hot, you should probably leave the fountain pump (or whatever it is
that is aerating the water) on during the daytime. If your pond is heavily
planted, then this may not be as much of an issue since the plants would put
out lots of O2 during the day due to photosynthesis.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sam Palermo
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 4:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pond fish poisoned

Hello Mary,

The pond has been established and has a water test done on it just after
this fish event.
All readings are good except the Nitrite was a little high. The pond has
since been purged of about 25% water replaced with fresh. This is in case it
was not the food but other environmental conditions. The fish up to this
point have been very healthy and have even reproduced for the last two
years. I am cleaning the in pond filter about every month and there are two
external filters taking out leaves and other particulates. I have no problem
with the algae or no ammonia seems to be the issue.
I on the arrival of home run a pump to aerate the water throwing it in the
air and I have noticed the fish like it so much that they swim into the jet
and like to take a ride into the air a few inches.
I am still looking for signs of the reason for this but at this point all
the other fish seem healthy and swimming around. Those effected before the
died- at least the ones I saw were kind of floating funny.
There is a water squirt device activated by intruders using an infrared
sensor- it squirts me sometimes when
I forget to turn it off- it covers the whole pond. These feeders purchased
at 3/4" are now up to 8" long.
I call them snapping turtles because when I show up at the edge they all
come running mouths agoin.
Petsmarts customer service says they have no other complaints about the
food- I asked the guy what
would happen if I ate some- they do a lot better testing on Humans than
animals. Well I haven't tried any yet.
Thanks for your note.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
Pickles wrote:
>
> I also heard early on that during the pet food recalls, that they had
> been using Melamine alone for years and never had a problem...here is
> one of a very few articles that talk about it....I think everyone was
> trying to pass the buck as to who was blame...I even heard one story
> that poision was actually found in the pet food...and that PETA was to
> blame...which I wouldnt put past them...but I think that was all talk
> and imo it was prob accidental....but here a couple of articles about
> it and the one at the bottom says they can test for it..so you might
> want to ask them about it...is there a date on the fish food you have?
> Just courious...I cook for my dogs but did have a few cans of dog food
> on my shelves for emergencies, and I threw them all out...I wasnt
> taking any chances...let us know what you find out....
> also have you tested your water for high amonia etc...and made sure
> there isnt an algea bloom happening? or anything else that might be
> killing your fish? ....Mary
>
> http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.ht
> m
> <http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.h
> tm>
> <http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.h
> tm
> <http://www.usatoday.com/money/industries/2007-05-07-melamine-usat_N.h
> tm> >
>
> .
> ._,___

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.11/909 - Release Date: 7/20/2007
4:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23335 From: Farscape Date: 7/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
I'd like to suggest that you contact Wardly ASAP and report it - they
may not be aware of it, and your report may help save other's fish!

I've bought fish food from Wardley for years now, and have never had an
issue.

If I can buy in larger quantities, I usually get it from
BigAlsOnline.com, otherwise I get it from Wal-Mart. (WM is about half
of Petco or Petsmart, and Big Al's is about half of that, even!)

A gross example is Wardley Shrimp Pellets - $3.67 for 9 oz. at WM, about
$10 at Petco, and 32 oz. (2 lbs.) of it are about $12 at Big Al's! (I
just can't get over the fact that Petco wants nearly triple the WM price!)

Back to the issue, though... Call or e-mail Wardley, give them any
codes off the package of food, and explain the problem.

At the least, they'll refund your money, and probably offer you
something else, too, if they're like any consumer brand I've ever heard
about.


Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote, On 7/21/2007 8:52 PM:
> You should take a series of water samples and test them with your test kits
> for the basics to make sure something didn't go wrong with your cycle or
> that you haven't had a nitrate explosion do to a dead fish or something.
> Then have another water sample and one of the dead fish (preserve the next
> one in your refrigerator in zip-loc bags) tested by your local university

> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
> It has Corn Gluten Meal as the 6th ingredient. I have stopped feeding them
> the food and Petsmart is going to get a call from me to instruct them that I
> am returning this food, disputing the charge and once I have lab results for
> this poisoning I will talking to my attorney about either a class action or
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23336 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Hi bridget,

where abouts are you? ,im in croydon.Yeh it is a great hobby,i love it,i
find having fish is so relaxing,anyway welcome to the group too,i hope to
hear from you again soon,take care.
hugs
julie
xxx


>From: "Bridget" <bridget@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hi im new
>Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:51:20 -0000
>
>
>Hi
>
>I am new too and I also live in the UK,
>
>I have been a fish keeper for about three years so I am no expert but it is
>a great hobby.
>
>Bridget

_________________________________________________________________
Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN. http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23337 From: Bridget Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie Quelch" <bearymad@...>
wrote:

Hi Julie great to hear from you, I live near the City of Bath,I find
that fish keeping is relaxing as long as every thing is OK and my
fish are healthy.
Bridget
>
> Hi bridget,
>
> where abouts are you? ,im in croydon.Yeh it is a great hobby,i love
it,i
> find having fish is so relaxing,anyway welcome to the group too,i
hope to
> hear from you again soon,take care.
> hugs
> julie
> xxx
>
>
> >From: "Bridget" <bridget@...>
> >Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hi im new
> >Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:51:20 -0000
> >
> >
> >Hi
> >
> >I am new too and I also live in the UK,
> >
> >I have been a fish keeper for about three years so I am no expert
but it is
> >a great hobby.
> >
> >Bridget
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN.
http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23338 From: Julie Quelch Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Hi im new
Hi Bridget

You are quite away from me then,i do find when im having problems with my
fish bullying etc i do get stressed.i have lost quite afew female fighters 2
white ones and 2 blue,my danios took a real dislike to them for some
reason,they also beat up my white male fighter that i had,he was so
lovely,he was my favourite,so laid back and placid,its such a shame when
things like this happen and you loose ya favourite fish.

hugs
julie
xx


>From: "Bridget" <bridget@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hi im new
>Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 11:51:04 -0000
>
>--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Julie Quelch" <bearymad@...>
>wrote:
>
>Hi Julie great to hear from you, I live near the City of Bath,I find
>that fish keeping is relaxing as long as every thing is OK and my
>fish are healthy.
>Bridget
> >
> > Hi bridget,
> >
> > where abouts are you? ,im in croydon.Yeh it is a great hobby,i love
>it,i
> > find having fish is so relaxing,anyway welcome to the group too,i
>hope to
> > hear from you again soon,take care.
> > hugs
> > julie
> > xxx
> >
> >
> > >From: "Bridget" <bridget@...>
> > >Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > >Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hi im new
> > >Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2007 18:51:20 -0000
> > >
> > >
> > >Hi
> > >
> > >I am new too and I also live in the UK,
> > >
> > >I have been a fish keeper for about three years so I am no expert
>but it is
> > >a great hobby.
> > >
> > >Bridget
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Watch all 9 Live Earth concerts live on MSN.
>http://liveearth.uk.msn.com
> >
>
>

_________________________________________________________________
Tell MSN about your most memorable emails! http://www.emailbritain.co.uk/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23339 From: Pickles Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: (7/21): Natural Balance Botulism Recall Alert
Full details at:
http://itchmo.com/read/natural-balance-recalls-food-due-to-botulism-risk_20070721

Read the latest news at: www.itchmo.com

Natural Balance has announced that it is recalling it's Natural Balance Eatables for Dogs due to a supplier's recall. The affected formulas include 15oz cans of: Irish Stew, Hobo Chili, Chinese Take-Out and Southern Style Dumplin's with Gravy. The supplier, Castleberry Foods, found one instance of botulism in improperly sealed cans.

The recall information was only sent to subscribers to their newsletters. This information is not yet available on the Natural Balance website.

Full details at:
http://itchmo.com/read/natural-balance-recalls-food-due-to-botulism-risk_20070721

Read the latest news at: www.itchmo.com

Subscribe/unsubscribe: www.itchmo.com/alerts




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23340 From: Peter H Date: 7/22/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
I don't suppose that you or your neighbours have been using weedkillers or
garden chemicals nearby.

Pete

On 7/21/07, Eric Roberts <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry to hear that Sam�We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese brand
> that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven't
> had
> any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we don't
> have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere that
> included fish food �I don't remember where, so you might want to do a
> Google
> search and see.
>
> Eric
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>
> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
> sterilizer on the pond.
>
> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23341 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Brand new aquarist...
I want to set up a 10 gallon (small, I know) freshwater tropical
community tank. I am still a little confused by the whole filtration
thing. If I get an undergravel filter and connect it to a powerhead, is
that sufficient filtration, or should I add something else to make it
REALLY efficient? I plan on starting with really basic stuff, a few
plants, some guppies and platys and maybe a bottom dweller or two.
Maybe 16 inches worth of fish. Also, is it possible to get a powerhead
with more than 1 line so you can hook up more than one peice of
equipment?

Sorry for the newbie questions. Any suggestions and/or advice is much
appreciated! :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23342 From: ÐJ §téþhèñ Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: guppies
i was just wandering if guppies lay eggs because i seen these clear
bubblish lookin things on my plastic flowers thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23343 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hi Peter,
The only thing the neighbors on that side were likely to be using is
poison for the fish. The house is empty
except for the juvenile drinking the Police choose to ignore that
happens every week end. Mexicans are involved
if you could not have guessed. So much for following rules.
If the food does not turn out to be the reason, then there is likely to
be foul play at hand here.
These deaths took place too frequent and too many for it to be anything
natural like a chemical build
up of waste. The water is crystal clear and the two pumps I have working
on the filtration provide some
aeration through out the day and the plants are also many on each side.
I will run the aeration pump more as
you suggest. The deaths have seemed to have lessened but I have due to
Raccoons last night had to replace
a good amount of water again this morning. The raccoons were trying to
get to the fish and pushed the liner
down to allow 8 " of water to escape. It was replaced this morning. They
usually don't get any fish as the
fish go to the deep center of the pond. If I hear the infrared varmint
chaser going off then I get out there and
whatever it is has to leave. This is of course during the night and I
have no way to know what is going on
during the day. In the event of people messing around with my pond, most
weapons have been lubricated
and clips checked. This is not a matter I take lightly. I may put
security cameras on the pond that have night
vision ability and trip wires around it. This method of trip wires
worked wonders when a garden at another
location was being looted at night and the wires were set up on a
trigger device that set off M80's in the close
proximity. After one treatment the offender never came back again.
It seems like I am trying to keep a pond in Iraq. Thanks for your advice
I will check into it all again.

Sam,


Peter H wrote:
> I don't suppose that you or your neighbours have been using weedkillers or
> garden chemicals nearby.
>
> Pete
>
> On 7/21/07, Eric Roberts <woad@...> wrote:
>
>> Sorry to hear that Sam...We mostly use the Tetra food and a Japanese brand
>> that I am forgetting the name of at the moment in our tanks and haven't
>> had
>> any probs, though we have used the Wardly food on occasion when we don't
>> have time to get out to Petco. I do remember seeing a list somewhere that
>> included fish food ...I don't remember where, so you might want to do a
>> Google
>> search and see.
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
>> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On
>> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
>> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:15 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish poisoned
>>
>> I have recently started feeding an established pond fish some Wardley
>> pond food called TEN. Since a couple of days have gone by there have
>> been 4 medium sized fish die with no signs of predator attacks.
>> I am wondering if the Chinese are now selling their food poison to the
>> fish feed people namely Hartz Mountain who makes Wardley. This product
>> came in the 5 Lb size container- bag from Petsmart.
>> Any advice or direction is welcome- I use two filter pumps and have a
>> sterilizer on the pond.
>>
>> Sam Palermo, Chicago area
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23344 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: guppies
Hi DJ,
I am pretty sure that Guppies are live bearing fish and I have actually
seen it happening.
The only bad news is that the other fish come to think the new fish are
food so it is
good to put the mother in a fish separation unit where the young fish go
to the bottom and the mother stays
at the top. When she is done having the young then put here back in with
the big fish
and let the young grow a little before release into the larger section
of tank. Then make sure there is a
grass or fine plant life even if plastic so the babies can hide. The
baby separators were green plastic
and hung on the side of the tank inside with the other fish and had a V
shaped plastic inside of it where
the smaller fish could escape into the bottom section separating the
mother from young. Babies instinctively
seem to go the bottom to hide be it rack or other hiding material like
plant or larger gravel.
That is why you have to be careful with Python tank Cleaner devices as
they suck the young out of the rocks.
Snails leave these small babies on stuff if you have them.

Sam,

ÐJ §téþhèñ wrote:
>
> i was just wandering if guppies lay eggs because i seen these clear
> bubblish lookin things on my plastic flowers thanks
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23345 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Hi Noah,

I have used all types of filters and the ones that I think do the best
are the
canister types made by Fluval and the type. They filter a lot of water
and they also
spray the water back into the tank pretty well so that plenty of
aeration happens.
I would start with a 20 gallon tank as a minimum as the 10 gallon is
going to seem cramped
once you get all the stuff in it that you need. It is really not that
much more of a size issue.
I have found the gravel or bottom filters are good for additional
filtering but not for primary
filters as they require you to down the tank to clean them real good. I
have sucked a lot of
dirt out using a Python type cleaner but you don't have a lot of time
when dealing with the
smaller tank to accomplish the job. If not a canister filter, use a rear
mount filter that you can
take off and clean and replace the carbon and other media like AmmoCarb
and other great
inventions they have come up with.
The better the water is clean the longer the fish last- to add the
finishing touch if you have the funds,
I have put a sterilizer in line with a canister filter I use. Plants
help cut down on water turbulence for
the fish and other method as directing the spray down and to the rear of
the tank helps reduce currents.
I have a tendency to get elaborate but I think these things are needed.
I have two 55 gallon tanks
going now with the larger Pond in the back yard. I have had fish for
about 30 years in tanks.
The plants I speak of are the plastic ones- live ones become more of
another hobby by themselves.

Sam, Chicago area

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I want to set up a 10 gallon (small, I know) freshwater tropical
> community tank. I am still a little confused by the whole filtration
> thing. If I get an undergravel filter and connect it to a powerhead, is
> that sufficient filtration, or should I add something else to make it
> REALLY efficient? I plan on starting with really basic stuff, a few
> plants, some guppies and platys and maybe a bottom dweller or two.
> Maybe 16 inches worth of fish. Also, is it possible to get a powerhead
> with more than 1 line so you can hook up more than one peice of
> equipment?
>
> Sorry for the newbie questions. Any suggestions and/or advice is much
> appreciated! :)
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23346 From: Vitae Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Undergravel filters are really not the greatest. They were until the HOB (hang on the back) filter developed.. I mean it's ok, but not the best.
If you're going for live plants, definitely avoid the UGF (undergravel fitler)

With a 10 gallon, stock lightly early. I'd say get 2 guppys first and keep an eye on the cycling process (**GET A TEST KIT**) and make sure the guys are gonna be ok.

If you want more later on, stock slowly.. with a 10 gallon thats not very much water and the chemicals can go off balance really easy (the bigger the tank, the easier it is, believe it or not!!)

Welcome to the hobby, enjoy the ride and the learning experiance! Don't be alarmed when you suddently get MTS! (multiple tank syndrom!) I have it already.. I have 2 10 gallons, 1 20 gallon, 1 45 gallon, 1 2.5 gallon and 1 6 gallon! :D

-V

PS: If you ever need any advice feel free to email me anytime! I'm always up for talkin' fish!

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brand new aquarist...


I want to set up a 10 gallon (small, I know) freshwater tropical
community tank. I am still a little confused by the whole filtration
thing. If I get an undergravel filter and connect it to a powerhead, is
that sufficient filtration, or should I add something else to make it
REALLY efficient? I plan on starting with really basic stuff, a few
plants, some guppies and platys and maybe a bottom dweller or two.
Maybe 16 inches worth of fish. Also, is it possible to get a powerhead
with more than 1 line so you can hook up more than one peice of
equipment?

Sorry for the newbie questions. Any suggestions and/or advice is much
appreciated! :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23347 From: Vitae Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: guppies
Sorry, guppies are a livebearer fish, they have live babies! Do you have live plants? If so they might be snail eggs, snails are fine as long as they don't overpopulate!

-V

----- Original Message -----
From: ÐJ §téþhèñ
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 9:48 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] guppies


i was just wandering if guppies lay eggs because i seen these clear
bubblish lookin things on my plastic flowers thanks





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23348 From: Charles Muether Date: 7/23/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Ditto on Sam's comments. I, too, have been in the hobby for about thirty years. Fluval is my personal favorite, and I have used every filter out there. I have had ponds and fish tanks of just about every size. I have settled on cold water fish after years of salt water and tropic. I get a sense of satisfaction with the big cold water pond fish who eat from my fingers and gather by the pond or tank where I am situated. I am very big on weekly water changes and tank mantenance, and I seldom have fish die unless they have been around for many, many years and die naturally of old age. I would start with a 29 g tank and be patient in the cycling process. Too many newbies are impatient with the necessary wait time for the tank to be at an optimum environment. Chuck from Des Moines

Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote: Hi Noah,

I have used all types of filters and the ones that I think do the best
are the
canister types made by Fluval and the type. They filter a lot of water
and they also
spray the water back into the tank pretty well so that plenty of
aeration happens.
I would start with a 20 gallon tank as a minimum as the 10 gallon is
going to seem cramped
once you get all the stuff in it that you need. It is really not that
much more of a size issue.
I have found the gravel or bottom filters are good for additional
filtering but not for primary
filters as they require you to down the tank to clean them real good. I
have sucked a lot of
dirt out using a Python type cleaner but you don't have a lot of time
when dealing with the
smaller tank to accomplish the job. If not a canister filter, use a rear
mount filter that you can
take off and clean and replace the carbon and other media like AmmoCarb
and other great
inventions they have come up with.
The better the water is clean the longer the fish last- to add the
finishing touch if you have the funds,
I have put a sterilizer in line with a canister filter I use. Plants
help cut down on water turbulence for
the fish and other method as directing the spray down and to the rear of
the tank helps reduce currents.
I have a tendency to get elaborate but I think these things are needed.
I have two 55 gallon tanks
going now with the larger Pond in the back yard. I have had fish for
about 30 years in tanks.
The plants I speak of are the plastic ones- live ones become more of
another hobby by themselves.

Sam, Chicago area

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I want to set up a 10 gallon (small, I know) freshwater tropical
> community tank. I am still a little confused by the whole filtration
> thing. If I get an undergravel filter and connect it to a powerhead, is
> that sufficient filtration, or should I add something else to make it
> REALLY efficient? I plan on starting with really basic stuff, a few
> plants, some guppies and platys and maybe a bottom dweller or two.
> Maybe 16 inches worth of fish. Also, is it possible to get a powerhead
> with more than 1 line so you can hook up more than one peice of
> equipment?
>
> Sorry for the newbie questions. Any suggestions and/or advice is much
> appreciated! :)
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23349 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Vitae,
You may wish to recheck your Aquarium History again.

Noah,

UGF filters are excellent biological filters, however, their efficiency can decrease when they are also used as mechanical filters unless extra care is taken to keep them clean of detritus, which may be one of the reasons why they have fallen out of favor.

As one who is just starting out in the hobby, you should go with the largest tank you can afford and have room for. The more room you have, the more room for error you have, and, believe me, you will make errors.

I saw someone earlier mention the use of a canister filter. If you are not running a larger tank, a canister filter is definite overkill both for the amount of filtration they offer and for the amount of water they can move. Unless the fish you plan to keep need a high water flow rate,

The UGF you mention should be, as I mentioned vacuumed regularly, 25-33%, with each water change to keep the gravel, or what ever substrate you use, clean. If you use live plants, this can be a bit difficult to do without disturbing root systems, unless you have another means of mechanical filtration. To alleviate the need to do so much cleaning. You will also need, upon occasion, to siphon the mulm that will accumulate under the filter plates, which is often done by passing tubing down through the uptake tube(s) to reach all the mulm.

If you use the UGF as a reverse flow filter, by forcing the water down the uptake tubes with the power head you mention, this will give you a chance to provide efficient mechanical filtration as well as obviate the collection of mulm beneath the plates and keep the substrate clean.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Vitae
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Brand new aquarist...

Undergravel filters are really not the greatest. They were until the HOB (hang on the back) filter developed.. I mean it's ok, but not the best.
If you're going for live plants, definitely avoid the UGF (undergravel fitler)

With a 10 gallon, stock lightly early. I'd say get 2 guppys first and keep an eye on the cycling process (**GET A TEST KIT**) and make sure the guys are gonna be ok.

If you want more later on, stock slowly.. with a 10 gallon thats not very much water and the chemicals can go off balance really easy (the bigger the tank, the easier it is, believe it or not!!)

Welcome to the hobby, enjoy the ride and the learning experiance! Don't be alarmed when you suddently get MTS! (multiple tank syndrom!) I have it already.. I have 2 10 gallons, 1 20 gallon, 1 45 gallon, 1 2.5 gallon and 1 6 gallon! :D

-V

PS: If you ever need any advice feel free to email me anytime! I'm always up for talkin' fish!

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 10:39 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brand new aquarist...


I want to set up a 10 gallon (small, I know) freshwater tropical
community tank. I am still a little confused by the whole filtration
thing. If I get an undergravel filter and connect it to a powerhead, is
that sufficient filtration, or should I add something else to make it
REALLY efficient? I plan on starting with really basic stuff, a few
plants, some guppies and platys and maybe a bottom dweller or two.
Maybe 16 inches worth of fish. Also, is it possible to get a powerhead
with more than 1 line so you can hook up more than one peice of
equipment?

Sorry for the newbie questions. Any suggestions and/or advice is much
appreciated! :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23350 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Yes, I would LOVE to have a bigger tank, but I'm afraid 10 gallons is
all I can afford right now. I know 20 gal. isn't much bigger, but it's
just big enough to be beyond my size constraints (We're talking small
room here). I figured on making some mistakes but hopefully not at the
expense of any fish lives. I will definetly do all the testing and
conditioning I can before any fish go in the tank.

Hm, well now that we come to it, what IS the "best" filter system I can
get? I plan on getting a starter kit, so I will have a HOB from that,
but I am fairly certain the stuff in those kits are cheapo crap. Or is
that a mistaken assumption?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23351 From: kstringer1974 Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Noah,

The debate on "best" filtration is just that, a debate. I think
everyone has their favorite(s) based on what works for them in their
specific set ups.
I have a 10G planted tank with a HOB filter and it works great. The HOB
for that size tank gives me mechanical filtration, with a little carbon
insert for absorbing some of the dissolved organic matter and a small
sponge insert for biological filtration. The truth is though that
denitrifying bacteria (the kind you need for cycling) colonize all over
your tank. Your mechanical filter media is home to lots of these
bacteria so it's a question of what do you really want to accomplish in
this tank?
Based on your comments, it sounds like you want to go something like
what I did, but your bioload seems a bit high (based on your comment
about 16 inches of fish).
If you want to go planted a UGF is not in your best interest as
maintenance on the filter requires pulling up the whole thing which is
a big mess with planted tanks due to root systems. For small tanks
where the fish do not need high flow rates, I would recommend going
with either a sponge filter or an appropriately sized HOB filter. If
you go with the HOB you can also strategically place decor such as
driftwood, plants (fake or real) to provide areas with out so much
current. I had to do this for a small 2.5G tank in my daughter's room
that has two guppies. The HOB was creating too much of a current so I
essentially blocked part of the current with some driftwood.
The Canister filters are great if you want a lot of options for filter
media and you want the higher flow rate. I use 2 Rena Filstar XP3
filters in my 180G tank and they perform very admirably.
But again, it all depends on what you want to do with your tank.

That's just my 2 cents. I hope that it's helpful. Welcome to the hobby,
it's certainly a fascinating one and something that can easily become
quite the obsession.

Best Regards,
Kevin

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> Yes, I would LOVE to have a bigger tank, but I'm afraid 10 gallons is
> all I can afford right now. I know 20 gal. isn't much bigger, but
it's
> just big enough to be beyond my size constraints (We're talking small
> room here). I figured on making some mistakes but hopefully not at
the
> expense of any fish lives. I will definetly do all the testing and
> conditioning I can before any fish go in the tank.
>
> Hm, well now that we come to it, what IS the "best" filter system I
can
> get? I plan on getting a starter kit, so I will have a HOB from that,
> but I am fairly certain the stuff in those kits are cheapo crap. Or
is
> that a mistaken assumption?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23352 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
I was going to definetly go with an UGF, but I do want to have a
planted system, so I will look into other filter options. I wasn't
sure about the amount of fish (that's why I threw 16 inches out
there). What would be a more realistic amount of fish to shoot for in
this small a tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23353 From: Chad Plum Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
about half the amount you are thinking of

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: I was going to definetly go with an UGF, but I do want to have a
planted system, so I will look into other filter options. I wasn't
sure about the amount of fish (that's why I threw 16 inches out
there). What would be a more realistic amount of fish to shoot for in
this small a tank?






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23354 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: pond cam
Hi gang:

Still having problems with my webcam server for my homepage! As of 230pm PST, you can see my fish via my Yahoo Messenger. Add me to your list and I will return the favor. Will have it up and running for another hour or so.

yahoo ID rickster_98506

Rick

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23355 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish poisoned
Hello Farscape,

I thank you for the info on Big Als. I will be doing some business there.
The fish seem to have slowed in the death toll but still I had three today.
I just tested the water with the kit I have and the readings go like this:
Nitrate Safe
Nitrite Safe
Hardness Hard
Alkalinity Ideal
PH Between Ideal and Acceptable.

This kit does not have ammonia or test for Chlorine of other toxins that
could have been introduced.
I am looking for some better water test kits. The water exchanged have
been a few since this started but
I am still wondering what caused this.

Sam,

Farscape wrote:
> I'd like to suggest that you contact Wardly ASAP and report it - they
> may not be aware of it, and your report may help save other's fish!
>
> I've bought fish food from Wardley for years now, and have never had an
> issue.
>
> If I can buy in larger quantities, I usually get it from
> BigAlsOnline.com, otherwise I get it from Wal-Mart. (WM is about half
> of Petco or Petsmart, and Big Al's is about half of that, even!)
>
> A gross example is Wardley Shrimp Pellets - $3.67 for 9 oz. at WM, about
> $10 at Petco, and 32 oz. (2 lbs.) of it are about $12 at Big Al's! (I
> just can't get over the fact that Petco wants nearly triple the WM price!)
>
> Back to the issue, though... Call or e-mail Wardley, give them any
> codes off the package of food, and explain the problem.
>
> At the least, they'll refund your money, and probably offer you
> something else, too, if they're like any consumer brand I've ever heard
> about.
>
>
> Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote, On 7/21/2007 8:52 PM:
>
>> You should take a series of water samples and test them with your test kits
>> for the basics to make sure something didn't go wrong with your cycle or
>> that you haven't had a nitrate explosion do to a dead fish or something.
>> Then have another water sample and one of the dead fish (preserve the next
>> one in your refrigerator in zip-loc bags) tested by your local university
>>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Sam Palermo
>> It has Corn Gluten Meal as the 6th ingredient. I have stopped feeding them
>> the food and Petsmart is going to get a call from me to instruct them that I
>> am returning this food, disputing the charge and once I have lab results for
>> this poisoning I will talking to my attorney about either a class action or
>>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23356 From: Paula Brown Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Snails
Speaking of snails, my 55-gallon aquarium is being overrun with them. I
am assuming that they came in on some live plants (I have many live
plants and tropical fish in the tank). They are under the size of my
thumbnail, but they are everywhere! We also have a 160-gallon outdoor
pond with plants and some fish in it. Just wondering if the snails
might be beneficial in the outside pond or if they will just reproduce
like crazy out there helping nothing?

Paula in Monroe, Michigan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23357 From: Vitae Date: 7/24/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Hah, hey I'm not perfect.. I was just quoting what I was told!
Everyone makes mistakes ^^
-V
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23358 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Snails
It causes great harm to the environment when indoor pets are released in the
wild, don't let those snails go out.



Even if they were "outdoor" animals native to the place where the plants
were raised, don't let them leave your home in your area.



The environment is full of horror stories about non-native species released
in the wild who cause problems like crowding out native species or
introducing a disease or parasite or killing off an essential part of the
local food chain, etc.



Dispose of them indoors and safely if you don't want them in your tanks.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 2:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Snails



Speaking of snails, my 55-gallon aquarium is being overrun with them. I
am assuming that they came in on some live plants (I have many live
plants and tropical fish in the tank). They are under the size of my
thumbnail, but they are everywhere! We also have a 160-gallon outdoor
pond with plants and some fish in it. Just wondering if the snails
might be beneficial in the outside pond or if they will just reproduce
like crazy out there helping nothing?

Paula in Monroe, Michigan





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23359 From: Blue fish Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: View latest videos of Marine animals
Videos of Blue water
Latest Blog News
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23360 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Here is a list of suitable fish and stocking suggestions for a 10G tank.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

If the link wraps or breaks, go to my Blog (in sig) and look at the links on
the right side and scroll down to "Stocking Guidelines" and there are 3
blogs in reference to that topic and the top blog is the 10G stocking
guidelines.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 2:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Brand new aquarist...

I was going to definetly go with an UGF, but I do want to have a planted
system, so I will look into other filter options. I wasn't sure about the
amount of fish (that's why I threw 16 inches out there). What would be a
more realistic amount of fish to shoot for in this small a tank?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.10.19/917 - Release Date: 7/25/2007
1:16 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23361 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Snails
I find snails are great for 2 things…helping the tank stay clean and proving
food for my fish. Plus I think they are cool. If it seems like they are
really getting out of control, get a couple of loaches…they will help to
keep the numbers down. My concern with them being outside is when the pond
freezes in the winter. If these are not snails designed for colder climes,
they may die and cause a large biomass of dead material that can quickly
elevate ammonia and nitrate levels as well as cause a mass algae bloom.
Otherwise, they would be a great addition for the same reasons listed above.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Tuesday, July 24, 2007 1:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Snails



Speaking of snails, my 55-gallon aquarium is being overrun with them. I
am assuming that they came in on some live plants (I have many live
plants and tropical fish in the tank). They are under the size of my
thumbnail, but they are everywhere! We also have a 160-gallon outdoor
pond with plants and some fish in it. Just wondering if the snails
might be beneficial in the outside pond or if they will just reproduce
like crazy out there helping nothing?

Paula in Monroe, Michigan





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23362 From: Noah Burge Date: 7/25/2007
Subject: Re: Brand new aquarist...
Thank you Lenny. Very helpful. :)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Here is a list of suitable fish and stocking suggestions for a 10G
tank.

>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23363 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Hi guys, hope you can help.

What can I put out to deter snakes from my pond? We had a fish
severely injured a month or so ago and I posted pics here and
evenutally had to put him down and couldn't figure out what got him.
Well 2 of my small koi came up missing this morning, they were there
last night. Upon inspection, I was bit today by a water snake. So is
there anything I can put out to keep them away? The pond are VERY
neatly manicured around them, so its not a grown up debris problem.
He just had a nice place under the waterfall to lay and a 24 hour
buffet. Between the time he bit me and my husbby got home to kill him
he had eaten a koi.

Any suggestions would help, I love my ponds but getting bit isn't fun!!

Thanks,
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23364 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Jenn,

How big is this water snake?

How big are the fish that were eaten?
Make sure you do not get an infection from the bite.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 1:28 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?







Hi guys, hope you can help.

What can I put out to deter snakes from my pond? We had a fish
severely injured a month or so ago and I posted pics here and
evenutally had to put him down and couldn't figure out what got him.
Well 2 of my small koi came up missing this morning, they were there
last night. Upon inspection, I was bit today by a water snake. So is
there anything I can put out to keep them away? The pond are VERY
neatly manicured around them, so its not a grown up debris problem.
He just had a nice place under the waterfall to lay and a 24 hour
buffet. Between the time he bit me and my husbby got home to kill him
he had eaten a koi.

Any suggestions would help, I love my ponds but getting bit isn't fun!!

Thanks,
Jenn





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23365 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Mike,

The snake is...or was.. about 2 1/2 feet long. After it bit me my
husband killed it and I took it to the ER with me..they said it was
a water snake. It bit me on the cheek. The two koi killed this
morning were about the length of my index finger..very small but
very pretty. I should have known something was up by the way my big
comet was acting and the fact that the frogs have dissapeared over
the last week or so. I just didn't put two and two together.

Any suggestions for detering other cheek biters?

Thanks,
Jenn


-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Jenn,
>
> How big is this water snake?
>
> How big are the fish that were eaten?
> Make sure you do not get an infection from the bite.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 1:28 pm
> Subject: [AquaticLife] What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys, hope you can help.
>
> What can I put out to deter snakes from my pond? We had a fish
> severely injured a month or so ago and I posted pics here and
> evenutally had to put him down and couldn't figure out what got
him.
> Well 2 of my small koi came up missing this morning, they were
there
> last night. Upon inspection, I was bit today by a water snake. So
is
> there anything I can put out to keep them away? The pond are VERY
> neatly manicured around them, so its not a grown up debris
problem.
> He just had a nice place under the waterfall to lay and a 24 hour
> buffet. Between the time he bit me and my husbby got home to kill
him
> he had eaten a koi.
>
> Any suggestions would help, I love my ponds but getting bit isn't
fun!!
>
> Thanks,
> Jenn
>
>
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
___
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23366 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Ouch!

I have been bitten by non venomous snakes more times than I can recall but never on the cheek.

As for driving away snakes I have no experience with this, I was always the kid trying to catch them. 

Do you have a cat or a dog in your yard?

I just googled this product.
http://www.pestproducts.com/snakeaway1.htm
I have no idea if it is effective or harmful to your fish.

Wish I had an answer for you.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 3:27 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?







Mike,

The snake is...or was.. about 2 1/2 feet long. After it bit me my
husband killed it and I took it to the ER with me..they said it was
a water snake. It bit me on the cheek. The two koi killed this
morning were about the length of my index finger..very small but
very pretty. I should have known something was up by the way my big
comet was acting and the fact that the frogs have dissapeared over
the last week or so. I just didn't put two and two together.

Any suggestions for detering other cheek biters?

Thanks,
Jenn

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Jenn,
>
> How big is this water snake?
>
> How big are the fish that were eaten?
> Make sure you do not get an infection from the bite.
>
> Mike
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 1:28 pm
> Subject: [AquaticLife] What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi guys, hope you can help.
>
> What can I put out to deter snakes from my pond? We had a fish
> severely injured a month or so ago and I posted pics here and
> evenutally had to put him down and couldn't figure out what got
him.
> Well 2 of my small koi came up missing this morning, they were
there
> last night. Upon inspection, I was bit today by a water snake. So
is
> there anything I can put out to keep them away? The pond are VERY
> neatly manicured around them, so its not a grown up debris
problem.
> He just had a nice place under the waterfall to lay and a 24 hour
> buffet. Between the time he bit me and my husbby got home to kill
him
> he had eaten a koi.
>
> Any suggestions would help, I love my ponds but getting bit isn't
fun!!
>
> Thanks,
> Jenn
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
___
> AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
free from AOL at AOL.com.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23367 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Hi Jenn,

I am dealing with some serious issue in my pond as well but I am not
sure what it is at this point.
It seems that when there is a Pond Emergency there is still no one
around to answer the call.
With all the ponds going in it seems like a perfect business to start.
Of course the best path is prevention.

With snakes and I never liked Spiders either, I would think of a way to
trap these buzzards. I don't mean
to keep them but to hold on to them until I got home to give them the
Axe. I can only think of some large
hair trigger mouse traps set off the pond path so that they had to cross
the trigger before getting to the fish.
Then once the trap is snapped on the snake, then stake the trap so the
snake can't move on as they will
not be interested in staying around the trap.

Sam,

ipartyforfun wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> The snake is...or was.. about 2 1/2 feet long. After it bit me my
> husband killed it and I took it to the ER with me..they said it was
> a water snake. It bit me on the cheek. The two koi killed this
> morning were about the length of my index finger..very small but
> very pretty. I should have known something was up by the way my big
> comet was acting and the fact that the frogs have dissapeared over
> the last week or so. I just didn't put two and two together.
>
> Any suggestions for detering other cheek biters?
>
> Thanks,
> Jenn
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, Deenerz@... wrote:
> >
> >
> > Jenn,
> >
> > How big is this water snake?
> >
> > How big are the fish that were eaten?
> > Make sure you do not get an infection from the bite.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thu, 26 Jul 2007 1:28 pm
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi guys, hope you can help.
> >
> > What can I put out to deter snakes from my pond? We had a fish
> > severely injured a month or so ago and I posted pics here and
> > evenutally had to put him down and couldn't figure out what got
> him.
> > Well 2 of my small koi came up missing this morning, they were
> there
> > last night. Upon inspection, I was bit today by a water snake. So
> is
> > there anything I can put out to keep them away? The pond are VERY
> > neatly manicured around them, so its not a grown up debris
> problem.
> > He just had a nice place under the waterfall to lay and a 24 hour
> > buffet. Between the time he bit me and my husbby got home to kill
> him
> > he had eaten a koi.
> >
> > Any suggestions would help, I love my ponds but getting bit isn't
> fun!!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jenn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________________
> ___
> > AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's
> free from AOL at AOL.com.
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23368 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/26/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
I did a quick Google for 'pond snake trap' and found these pages...

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/traps/snake_traps.html

http://www.dunnsfishfarm.com/snake_traps_66_ctg.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23369 From: Debra Melton Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Hi Jen,

Sorry to hear about your traumatic snake encounter. It seems a horrific
price to pay for having a pond.

Sam, At the risk of starting a flame war - that being said as pond keepers
we are "inviting" mother nature in all her diversity to come into our
yards. I don't believe there is much you can do short of building a tall
brick fence around your entire yard that will keep the snakes out. Then if
you have trees they can still fall in. We don't kill them. They do a lot
of good in the environment.

I live in Mississippi and we have quite a variety of snakes (both venomous
and nonvenomous) that come to our ponds as well as turtles and birds. They
do eat a percentage of our fish but, our worst loss occurred with a large
blue heron that arrived sometime after we left for work and stayed until he
cleaned out a goldfish pond. The culprit was still around when we got home.

As for the snakes we have two cats and two dogs that kind of keep them
moving but we still walk around the yard with our eyes open, and yes we do
find snakes up in our trees. So far only nonpoisonous but you never know.

Deb




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23370 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: after deliberation
After some deliberation on my part and research, I bought onlne a cold water algae eater for our outdoor pond. According to research I have done they get more aggressive in groups and they look like the notorious nasty Chinese Algae Eaters.

Pingi Logsucker (Garra Pingi Pingi)
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/fish/pingilogsucker.php

We have him in our 100 gallon container watergarden which has a 210 GPH pump feeding the water into the upper end of the bog aka biological filtration system that we have plus a bubble wand airstone towards the other end of the container that gives it more circulation.. The article says they like well oxygenated water and plenty of hiding places which I think we had in the container: water lily, oval shaped lava rock and a brick (that lays on its side to raise the water clover plant closer to the surface) both the brick and rock I have had for ages and were in the pond before, were boiled thoroughly before putting them in the pond.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23371 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: after deliberation
Richard,

I think you made an excellent choice.



I have not had the Garra Pingi Pingi, but I have a couple Garra Garra.  I guess they are a different subspecies.  I know in Turkey they use one kind of the Garra in open pools for people with exzcema, psoriasis and other skin conditions.  Supposed to have a therapuetic benefit to them.  I read somewhere that they have caught on in Japan and are used for the same thing.
http://www.psoriasisfishcure.com/researches/doctor_fish.htm

http://www.psorijaza.net/garra_rufa_en.html
They are great fish.I have two right now and want more.  My local wholesaler gets them in occasionally and we get them at our aquarium society auction and they sell real well.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Rattie <rick2646@...>
To: YG A Garden With Water <agardenwithwater@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: YG Water Gardening <Water_gardening@yahoogroups.com>; YG Pond Keeper <pondkeepers@yahoogroups.com>; YG Pond and Plants <ponds_and_plants@yahoogroups.com>; YG Koi Messenger <koimessenger@yahoogroups.com>; YG Goldfish Messenger <goldfishmessenger@yahoogroups.com>; YG Backyard Pondering S <Backyard_Pond-ering_Society@yahoogroups.com>; YG Aquatic Life <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>; Jeanne Sisson <libbysmom52@...>
Sent: Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:39 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] after deliberation







After some deliberation on my part and research, I bought onlne a cold water algae eater for our outdoor pond. According to research I have done they get more aggressive in groups and they look like the notorious nasty Chinese Algae Eaters.

Pingi Logsucker (Garra Pingi Pingi)
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/fish/pingilogsucker.php

We have him in our 100 gallon container watergarden which has a 210 GPH pump feeding the water into the upper end of the bog aka biological filtration system that we have plus a bubble wand airstone towards the other end of the container that gives it more circulation.. The article says they like well oxygenated water and plenty of hiding places which I think we had in the container: water lily, oval shaped lava rock and a brick (that lays on its side to raise the water clover plant closer to the surface) both the brick and rock I have had for ages and were in the pond before, were boiled thoroughly before putting them in the pond.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23372 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: pond log
For anyone interested! I have started what I am calling a pondlog even some would not call my set-up a pond more like a container water garden. It will be updated from time to time.

I am hoping to have pictures posted VERY soon to my homepage. We took pictures of our new addition to the 'pond' the Garra Pingi Pingi aka a Pingi Logsucker.

At the bottom of the page you will find some research I did on the benefits of Duckweed in the pond and information gathered on the Pingi Logsucker.

http://shadows-place.com/pondlog.htm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23373 From: elementkid65 Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: is anyone else here in australia, queensland, sunshine coast,
looking for some cheapish kribs or gbrs or apistos
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23374 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 7/27/2007
Subject: Re: What can I do to deter snakes from my pond?
Has anyone had good luck with snake away? I have tons of gardenrs sankes, but no water snakes.


Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 10 am-8 pm CST


---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23375 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/28/2007
Subject: success - live webcam
We are having water clarity issues but the LIVE webcam is active on my homepage. You will need active X viewer to view the cam. Java applet option is having its issues.

http://shadows-place.com/webcam3.html

Rick



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23376 From: ipartyforfun Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Any one from New Orleans area?
I will be visiting the New Orleans area in 2 weeks and was just
wondering if anyone is from that area and can recommend any really
good fish stores and or pond stores.

We will be staying at Abita Springs and traveling in to town each day
so I would like any suggestions before I scour the phone book when I
get there!!

Thanks,
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23377 From: Phil Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We
caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,
3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released the
others in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They have
yellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseeds
are in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. They
remind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spot
soon & hopefully catch some more.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23378 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
You mean to say that you release the other fish in a body of water that they did not come from? That is a BIG NO NO! If you don't want the fish you caught, they should only be released in to the body of water they came from. I can understand your excitment on your new additions, but it's no excuse to be a bucket biologist. If you want more info on the hobby of collecting native fish, collecting and keeping laws, proper handling and disposal methods, go to www.nanfa.org and visit the forums there.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: swordtail72@...: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 21:29:21 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Pumkinseeds!!!!!




Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released theothers in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They haveyellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseedsare in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. Theyremind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spotsoon & hopefully catch some more.


_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary!  
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlmailtextlink

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23379 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
From what I am told…bluegills are from the same family as cichlids



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Phil
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 4:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pumkinseeds!!!!!



Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We
caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,
3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released the
others in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They have
yellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseeds
are in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. They
remind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spot
soon & hopefully catch some more.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23380 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: New Member
Hi All,

My name is Teresa and I have a 65 gallon african cichlid tank. I first
stared keeping fish when I was 11, and my first fish was a betta. Then
I moved to goldfish, then a basic community tank. Just wanted to
introduce myself. Looking forward to meeting you,
Teresa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23381 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member
Hi Bridget,

I'm new as well. Nice to meet you. I have a 65 gallon african cichlid
tank.

I think those frogs are so cute. Never tried keeping them though.

Teresa
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Bridget" <bridget@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
> I have just joined the group and just wanted to say hello. I have
tanks
> set up all over the house and the occupants range from goldfish to
> african clawed frogs. I have just been given an Axolotl is there any
> one else here that has the experience of owning one of these amazing
> creatures? I look forward to getting know you all
> Bridget
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23382 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Bluegill are related to cichlids. My dad had a 180 gallon tank with
bass and bluegill and it was beautiful!

Teresa
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <swordtail72@...> wrote:
>
> Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We
> caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,
> 3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released the
> others in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They have
> yellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseeds
> are in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. They
> remind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spot
> soon & hopefully catch some more.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23383 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I'm new as well. Nice to meet you.

I have a 65 gallon with assorted afrian cichlids. Mostly yellow labs
and peacocks.

Teresa


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "charger9069" <charger9069@...>
wrote:
>
> Hey, new to the group, decided to see what everyone has goin on.
>
> I have a couple of tanks here they are:
>
> 2 gallon - 1 betta ( I know haha )
>
> (3)10 gallons:
> 1st- Guppies
> 2nd- Betta
> 3rd- Holding tank
>
> (2) 15 gallons:
> 1st- Mainly tropicals, Tiger barbs, danios
> 2nd- Zebra Danios and Barbs
>
> 55 gallon - 10 Ps. Demasoni and 6 Yellow labs
>
> 60 gallon - Demasoni Colony
>
> What are you guys holding?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23384 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
In addition to what Francina has already said about releasing the
unwanted fish in another body of water, you may have illegally retained
the pumpkinseeds. Many states have laws or regulations that define what
native fish may be kept and how they may be captured. You may want to
look this up prior to keeping nay fish you may catch on your fishing
expeditions.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Phil
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We
caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,
3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released the
others in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They have
yellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseeds
are in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. They
remind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spot
soon & hopefully catch some more.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23385 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Sorry Eric -- close, but no cigar. Bluegills are in the Family
Centrarchidae, which includes only the North American Sunfish and
Black Bass. The Cichlids are in the Family Cichlidae, which only
include them. Both of these Families however are in the Order
Perciformes (Percomorphi), perch-like fish related to the true
Perches and in the Sub-Order Actinopterygii (Percoidei), or ray-
finned fish. So from that standpoint, yes, they are somewhat closely
related. One seemingly minor (from the novice's standpoint) is that
Cichlids have only one nostril on each side of the head, whereas
Sunfish have two nostrils on each side of the head.

For New-World Percoidei however, there is a marked difference in
their breeding behavior, with Sunfish having the male only
constructing the nest and any attracted female breeding with the male
of her immediate choosing; then the male (only) rearing the fry --
short term. While in New World Cichlids, generally they form a pair
bond, at least for the duration of breeding and rearing the fry to
greater development. There are a number of other differences in
taxonomy of course, which I won't go into here, but which includes
their dention and pharygal biting plates and other points more of
interest primarily to the ichthyologist.

I would like to point out though, that males of the larger Sunfish
species such as the Pumkinseed (Lepomis gibbosus) can be quite
intolerable of conspecifics (especially females) in the confines of
an aquarium of smaller proportions. Ray


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> From what I am told…bluegills are from the same family as cichlids
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Phil
> Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 4:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
> Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. We
> caught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,
> 3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released the
> others in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They
have
> yellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseeds
> are in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. They
> remind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same
spot
> soon & hopefully catch some more.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23386 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
So what looks like a bass crossed with a sunfish? He's in my tank and I
have not been able to identify him.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23387 From: William Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Could you sent a picture, it will make identifying the fish a lot
easier. Plus a bass really is a type of sunfish. Where did you get
this fish? From a store or from a local body of water? This would
make it easier to know if you have a cichlid or a sunfish.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> So what looks like a bass crossed with a sunfish? He's in my tank
and I
> have not been able to identify him.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23388 From: Pickles Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Could it be a small mouth bass? They are kinds of odd if you have never seen one
before...Mary

----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2007 6:43 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!


So what looks like a bass crossed with a sunfish? He's in my tank and I
have not been able to identify him.
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23389 From: Jim Pat. Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: New Member....
Hi all, my name is Jim and I have been "away" from having tanks for
about 20 yrs....At that time I had community, salt and a cichlid tank.
I am looking to set up a 65g. community or cichlid tank, un-sure right
now. I will be having some questions about pumps and a few other
things...Looks like a nice board..

Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23390 From: EAR Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Welcome Jim.

The folks here are very informed and willing to share a wealth of information with anyone.

Best,
Liz


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23391 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/29/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Hi Jim,

I have been setting up and running tanks for at least that long starting
in high school back in the early 70's.
I have used some smaller filter pump combinations but what I am using
now are the Fluval type canister
filter units that have worked well for me over the years. Some of them I
try to keep going for better than 10 years.
My only complaint is the Fluval impeller cover that keeps on breaking- I
have tried epoxy, support with brass rod and
as of the last pump/filter that motor overheated- I am using a small mag
drive to push the water through but the filter
still works the same -I just don't plug it in. Well you won't have this
problem as their new stuff is different in design.
If you don't have the money for a new one E bay has had some that were
used in good shape or those that are being
sold to get rid of final stock from stores closing down. I would check
That Pet Place or Foster and Smiths with a look on
Big Als to compare prices.
This is just my though on the subject- my 55 gal tanks have double
filtration on them to make sure and to keep aeration
at maximum and they are hooked up on UPS supplies. I have also been know
in power outages to get lines pulled down into
the basement from my 5KW generator to keep the UPS going. That is just
me- and I don't have expensive fish.
But they are mine.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260


Jim Pat. wrote:
>
>
> Hi all, my name is Jim and I have been "away" from having tanks for
> about 20 yrs....At that time I had community, salt and a cichlid tank.
> I am looking to set up a 65g. community or cichlid tank, un-sure right
> now. I will be having some questions about pumps and a few other
> things...Looks like a nice board..
>
> Jim
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23392 From: hamrad45 Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
I bought a used aquarium which has a Top Fin 20 "hang on the side of
the tank" filter system. My questions is, what is the adjustment on
the top and how do I use it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23393 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
I believe that controls the flow rate. You can probably go to their website
and download a copy of the manual.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 9:34 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter



I bought a used aquarium which has a Top Fin 20 "hang on the side of
the tank" filter system. My questions is, what is the adjustment on
the top and how do I use it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23395 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: beautiful morning
Beautiful morning in the Pacific NW! Sunk the underwater camera in the pond this morning and snapped some stills of the inhabitants. Got a beaitufl photo of our resident Butterfly Koi.

http://www.shadows-place.com/webcam3.html
Select the ActiveX option as the java option is not working properly.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23396 From: sunonceshown Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
The adjustment on the top is controls the flow rate.

So if you need a high flow rate, open it up all the way.

Some fish like calm water and some like a heavy current, so it all depends on what kind of fish you have.

Hope this helped.

Teresa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23397 From: Richard Rattie Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: underwater cam - still photos
Took some photos this morning using the underwater camera and the images did not turn out to bad. Thought I would share with you the results of the photo taking.


http://shadows-place.com/stills.html

Rick


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23398 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Sorry I cannot take a picture of my fish but it looks like this except:
<http://tiee.ecoed.net/vol/v4/experiments/habitat_shifts/img/sunfish%5BHR%5D.jpg>
It is the color of a bass except it has horizontal, narrow, closely
spaced stripes consisting of tiny dots.
It's shape is much more like a sunfish than a small mouth bass.
This fish was removed from a pond that has both bass and bluegills in
it. I was collecting aquarium plants like frogbit when a friend caught
it.
The fish is about seven inches or so long and 1 and 1/4 inches thick
near the gills.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23399 From: Pickles Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Or...could it be a Rock Bass?

http://www.seagrant.wisc.edu/greatlakesfish/frockbass.html
a.. Length: usually about 6-8 inches
b.. Weight: usually less than 1 lb. (World record is 3 lb. 10 oz.; Wisconsin record
is 2 lb. 15 oz.)
c.. Coloring: golden brown to olive, with silver to white belly; red eyes
d.. Common Names: northern rock bass, redeye, redeye bass, goggle eye, and rock
sunfish
e.. Found in Lakes: all Great Lakes

Identification | Habitat | Life Cycle | Place in the Ecosystem | Fishing

The rock bass isn't really a bass--it's a member of the sunfish family--but it is
associated with rocky habitat.

Identification
Like most of the other members of its family, the rock bass has a very deep,
laterally compressed body. Its distinguishing features are a red to orange eye and 5
to 7 spines in the anal fin. Less colorful than the pumpkinseed and bluegill, rock
bass are golden brown to olive with silvery white undersides. They are capable of
changing rapidly to silver or blackish.


Habitat
This fish's favored habitat is clear, cool to warm waters over a gravel or rocky
bottom with some vegetation, and they are often found near breakwaters and
stone-armored shorelines. They can often be seen in groups near other sunfishes such
as smallmouth bass and pumpkinseeds. During the winter, rock bass move to deeper
water, where they enter a condition of semihibernation.

Life Cycle
In the spring, rock bass move to very shallow water (even as shallow as a few inches)
to spawn when the temperatures reach 60-70 degrees F. Males build circular nests of
about 8-10 inches in diameter by fanning out debris with their fins. A female will
approach the nest only when she is ready to spawn, and the male watches her closely
until she deposits her eggs. She releases only a few eggs at a time, which the male
fertilizes as soon as they are extruded. Spawning may last as long as an hour.

Females leave the nest immediately after spawning, but males remain to guard the
eggs. Hatching occurs within about 3-4 days, and the fry gradually rise up and out of
the nest within a few more days. Now on their own, the fry remain in shallow, heavily
vegetated areas for a few months.

Place in the Ecosystem
Rock bass will eat a wide variety of foods, including crayfish, small fish, and
insects. Adults feed most heavily in the evening and morning. Young rock bass become
food for larger predatory fishes such as large basses, northern pike, and muskies,
and they compete with such fish as smallmouth bass for food.

Fishing
Often caught incidentally, the rock bass is fairly easy to catch from a variety of
locations with several different types of bait. The fish strike the bait hard and put
up a fight, but according to George Becker in Fishes of Wisconsin, "it tires easily."





----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!


Sorry I cannot take a picture of my fish but it looks like this except:
<http://tiee.ecoed.net/vol/v4/experiments/habitat_shifts/img/sunfish%5BHR%5D.jpg>
It is the color of a bass except it has horizontal, narrow, closely
spaced stripes consisting of tiny dots.
It's shape is much more like a sunfish than a small mouth bass.
This fish was removed from a pond that has both bass and bluegills in
it. I was collecting aquarium plants like frogbit when a friend caught
it.
The fish is about seven inches or so long and 1 and 1/4 inches thick
near the gills.
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23400 From: Pickles Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
does it look like this?
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lake-berryessa.com/images/LakeBerryessaPics/bluegill.jpe&imgrefurl=http://www.lake-berryessa.com/Wildlife.html&h=560&w=753&sz=86&tbnid=L-c8RNIEN0n17M:&tbnh=106&tbnw=142&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dblue%2Bgill%26um%3D1&start=1&sa=X&oi=images&ct=image&cd=1

http://www.fcps.k12.va
us/StratfordLandingES/Ec
ology/Fish/Bluegill/
White Crappie (Pomoxis annularis)

Identification:
Silvery-white, with dark green or black mottling in the form of vertical bars
on sides. Mouth large, with transparent sides when extended.

History:
White crappie are common in warm water lakes and rivers throughout the
state. They are a schooling fish, and the schools tend to stay within one
area. Schools remain near logs or boulders during the day and may move
out to open water in the evening. White crappie feed on minute aquatic
life as well as on insects and fish. This fish, like many warm water species,
become inactive in the fall when water temperatures cool. Although
usually small in size, crappie, when hooked, fight hard and are good eating.
----- Original Message -----
From: <elementalclay@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 1:07 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!


Sorry I cannot take a picture of my fish but it looks like this except:
<http://tiee.ecoed.net/vol/v4/experiments/habitat_shifts/img/sunfish%5BHR%5D.jpg>
It is the color of a bass except it has horizontal, narrow, closely
spaced stripes consisting of tiny dots.
It's shape is much more like a sunfish than a small mouth bass.
This fish was removed from a pond that has both bass and bluegills in
it. I was collecting aquarium plants like frogbit when a friend caught
it.
The fish is about seven inches or so long and 1 and 1/4 inches thick
near the gills.
Roxanne



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23401 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
What you're describing is a Rock Bass (Ambloplites rupestris), as
Pickles suggested. Normally, they are much darker than depicted in the
photo link by Pickles, but the bright red eye is a prominent feature of
these fish. It has exactly the same narrow horizontal stripes made up
of tiny dots as per your post. It is yet another member of the North
American Sunfish Family, not usually too numerous in any one location.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Sorry I cannot take a picture of my fish but it looks like this
except:
> <http://tiee.ecoed.net/vol/v4/experiments/habitat_shifts/img/sunfish%
5BHR%5D.jpg>
> It is the color of a bass except it has horizontal, narrow, closely
> spaced stripes consisting of tiny dots.
> It's shape is much more like a sunfish than a small mouth bass.
> This fish was removed from a pond that has both bass and bluegills
in
> it. I was collecting aquarium plants like frogbit when a friend
caught
> it.
> The fish is about seven inches or so long and 1 and 1/4 inches thick
> near the gills.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23402 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Sorry I didn't tell you the eye of this fish is very black with no
red.
The friend that caught it has been fishing these Minnesota waters for
over 40 years and says she cannot remember ever seeing anything like it.
Might be a mutant. It has almost invisable verticle yellow stripes
and the slightest hint of yellow on the end of the tail.
Another weird thing is that my brownish grey 'goldfish" turned from
that color to bright yellow with black fins and tail and now is turning
goldish all within a month.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23403 From: Sam Palermo Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Need instruction for Top Fin 20 filter
Hi Tom,

If it is anything like the adjustment on some of my back tank filters-
it is a flow rate adjustment.
There should be some kind of indication of its max and min setting.

Sam,

hamrad45 wrote:
>
> I bought a used aquarium which has a Top Fin 20 "hang on the side of
> the tank" filter system. My questions is, what is the adjustment on
> the top and how do I use it?
>
> Thanks for your time,
>
> Tom
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23404 From: Steve Szabo Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: e-mail
Fred,

You should be able to go to your profile on yahoo and set all your groups to nomail while you are away. Then when you come back, you can set it back to the setting you prefer.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Fred Rhoda
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 11:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: Fred & Kathy Rhoda
Subject: [AquaticLife] e-mail


Could you please put me on hold for a month or so?

We are going out of the country and would not like to be backed up with e-mail when we get home.


Thank you so very much -- Fred Rhoda fredrhoda@...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23406 From: Jim Pat. Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
Sam,


Thanks for the reply, I like the generator idea....
I do have a few questions, here is my first one...When I had tanks I
used under gravel filters,now I am being told that you don't need
them. Well, so I have been told by one of the guys at a local
Tropical Fish store. I have been looking at the FilStar XP-2, what is
everyone's opinion about this? I understand what the XP-2 does and I
can see where it can take the place of the UGF, but, I am "Old
School" on tanks...On the other hand a tank without those return
tubes and baskets looks great..I really can't wait to get started,new
tanks sizes to choose from, new accessories, and I will be looking
for a show tank..

Thanks again,

Jim




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I have been setting up and running tanks for at least that long
starting
> in high school back in the early 70's.
> I have used some smaller filter pump combinations but what I am
using
> now are the Fluval type canister
> filter units that have worked well for me over the years. Some of
them I
> try to keep going for better than 10 years.
> My only complaint is the Fluval impeller cover that keeps on
breaking- I
> have tried epoxy, support with brass rod and
> as of the last pump/filter that motor overheated- I am using a
small mag
> drive to push the water through but the filter
> still works the same -I just don't plug it in. Well you won't have
this
> problem as their new stuff is different in design.
> If you don't have the money for a new one E bay has had some that
were
> used in good shape or those that are being
> sold to get rid of final stock from stores closing down. I would
check
> That Pet Place or Foster and Smiths with a look on
> Big Als to compare prices.
> This is just my though on the subject- my 55 gal tanks have double
> filtration on them to make sure and to keep aeration
> at maximum and they are hooked up on UPS supplies. I have also been
know
> in power outages to get lines pulled down into
> the basement from my 5KW generator to keep the UPS going. That is
just
> me- and I don't have expensive fish.
> But they are mine.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
> (708)334-2260
>
>
> Jim Pat. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all, my name is Jim and I have been "away" from having tanks
for
> > about 20 yrs....At that time I had community, salt and a cichlid
tank.
> > I am looking to set up a 65g. community or cichlid tank, un-sure
right
> > now. I will be having some questions about pumps and a few other
> > things...Looks like a nice board..
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23407 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
And just in case some of you didn't read previous posts or chose to ignore them, I'll repeat myself. NEVER RELEASE A FISH IN TO A BODY OF WATER IN WHICH YOU DID NOT IMMEDIATELY CATCH IT OUT OF! You may be introducing a species where it wasn't, or you may transfering a disease from one body of water to another and in some state, transfering fish (especially game fish) from one body of water to another is illegal. Not only that, but keeping certain species of fish under a certain size may also be illegal. The following excerpts are from your own Minnesota fishing regulations book: http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/rlp/regulations/fishing/fishing2007.pdf

Page 11
Transporting Fish

Except on the body of water where taken, live fish may not be transported in a quantity of water sufficient to keep them alive unless the fish are bait or the person is authorized to do so by the DNR.
Page 12

Stocking live fish or fish eggs or transferring fish or fish eggs from one body of water to another is prohibited without a DNR permit.
Moving those other fish you didn't want to another body of water that they did not come out of was illegal according to your state laws. Here's the website with your state's fisheries info: http://www.dnr.state.mn.us/regulations/fishing/index.html

Page 18
Fish Diseases
Diseases, such as largemouth bass virus heterosporis, can harm game fish populations.These diseases can be moved from one lake to another in the water. Help prevent the spread or introduction of these diseases by draining water from livewells, bilges and bait containers before transporting boats and equipment.

Now that you've taken these fish in and exposed them to anything that may be in your aquarium, you can't return them to ANY body of water, including the one they came from. Anytime you take a fish out of it's home and keep it in your aquarium, you've now accepted that you are responsible for the life care of the fish, however long that may be.



To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: elementalclay@...: Mon, 30 Jul 2007 18:50:03 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!




Sorry I didn't tell you the eye of this fish is very black with nored.The friend that caught it has been fishing these Minnesota waters forover 40 years and says she cannot remember ever seeing anything like it.Might be a mutant. It has almost invisable verticle yellow stripesand the slightest hint of yellow on the end of the tail.Another weird thing is that my brownish grey 'goldfish" turned fromthat color to bright yellow with black fins and tail and now is turninggoldish all within a month.Roxanne


_________________________________________________________________
Missed the show?  Watch videos of the Live Earth Concert on MSN.
http://liveearth.msn.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23408 From: Beth Lucas Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
I love my Xp2, it is easy to take care of also. Good luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Pat.
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 9:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New Member....



Steve,

Thanks for the reply, when I had tanks I used under gravel filters,
now I am being told that you don't need them. Well, so I have been
told by one of the guys at a local Tropical Fish store. I have been
looking at the FilStar XP-2, what is everyone's opinion about this? I
understand what the XP-2 does and I can see where it can take the
place of the UGF, but, I am "Old School" on tanks...On the other hand
a tank without those return tubes and baskets looks great..I really
can't wait to get started, I am still looking for a show tank..

Thanks again,

Jim

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I have been setting up and running tanks for at least that long
starting
> in high school back in the early 70's.
> I have used some smaller filter pump combinations but what I am
using
> now are the Fluval type canister
> filter units that have worked well for me over the years. Some of
them I
> try to keep going for better than 10 years.
> My only complaint is the Fluval impeller cover that keeps on
breaking- I
> have tried epoxy, support with brass rod and
> as of the last pump/filter that motor overheated- I am using a
small mag
> drive to push the water through but the filter
> still works the same -I just don't plug it in. Well you won't have
this
> problem as their new stuff is different in design.
> If you don't have the money for a new one E bay has had some that
were
> used in good shape or those that are being
> sold to get rid of final stock from stores closing down. I would
check
> That Pet Place or Foster and Smiths with a look on
> Big Als to compare prices.
> This is just my though on the subject- my 55 gal tanks have double
> filtration on them to make sure and to keep aeration
> at maximum and they are hooked up on UPS supplies. I have also been
know
> in power outages to get lines pulled down into
> the basement from my 5KW generator to keep the UPS going. That is
just
> me- and I don't have expensive fish.
> But they are mine.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
> (708)334-2260
>
>
> Jim Pat. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all, my name is Jim and I have been "away" from having tanks
for
> > about 20 yrs....At that time I had community, salt and a cichlid
tank.
> > I am looking to set up a 65g. community or cichlid tank, un-sure
right
> > now. I will be having some questions about pumps and a few other
> > things...Looks like a nice board..
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23409 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/30/2007
Subject: Re: New Member....
I have had a Rena Filstar xP1 for over 3 years and an xP3 for 2.5 years and
both have been workhorses, are easy to maintain (I do filter maintenance
every other week) and they have large reservoirs and baskets for lots of
mechanical/biological media. I don't use carbon but I do have a small 100ml
pack of Seachem Purigen which is easily cleaned/recharged so it does not
have to be trashed every couple of weeks like carbon. This leaves a lot
more room for mechanical filter media like open cell sponges and polypads
and these also double as biological filter media. This filter setup has
been working for me for several years now. I have an article on my filter
maintenance and cleaning on my blog as well as a review of the xP1 with
pictures showing how I clean and situate my filter media. When I was doing
my research, this brand of filters were the best value for a good system.
BigAlsOnline.com seems to have the best prices but check MarineDepot.com,
PetsMart.com, DrsFosterSmith.com and other sites for prices before making
your final choice. Check eBay and AquaBid also.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Pat.
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2007 11:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New Member....

Steve,

Thanks for the reply, when I had tanks I used under gravel filters, now I am
being told that you don't need them. Well, so I have been told by one of the
guys at a local Tropical Fish store. I have been looking at the FilStar
XP-2, what is everyone's opinion about this? I understand what the XP-2 does
and I can see where it can take the place of the UGF, but, I am "Old School"
on tanks...On the other hand a tank without those return tubes and baskets
looks great..I really can't wait to get started, I am still looking for a
show tank..

Thanks again,

Jim

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> I have been setting up and running tanks for at least that long
starting
> in high school back in the early 70's.
> I have used some smaller filter pump combinations but what I am
using
> now are the Fluval type canister
> filter units that have worked well for me over the years. Some of
them I
> try to keep going for better than 10 years.
> My only complaint is the Fluval impeller cover that keeps on
breaking- I
> have tried epoxy, support with brass rod and as of the last
> pump/filter that motor overheated- I am using a
small mag
> drive to push the water through but the filter still works the same -I
> just don't plug it in. Well you won't have
this
> problem as their new stuff is different in design.
> If you don't have the money for a new one E bay has had some that
were
> used in good shape or those that are being sold to get rid of final
> stock from stores closing down. I would
check
> That Pet Place or Foster and Smiths with a look on Big Als to compare
> prices.
> This is just my though on the subject- my 55 gal tanks have double
> filtration on them to make sure and to keep aeration at maximum and
> they are hooked up on UPS supplies. I have also been
know
> in power outages to get lines pulled down into the basement from my
> 5KW generator to keep the UPS going. That is
just
> me- and I don't have expensive fish.
> But they are mine.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago (708)334-2260
>
>
> Jim Pat. wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi all, my name is Jim and I have been "away" from having tanks
for
> > about 20 yrs....At that time I had community, salt and a cichlid
tank.
> > I am looking to set up a 65g. community or cichlid tank, un-sure
right
> > now. I will be having some questions about pumps and a few other
> > things...Looks like a nice board..
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>

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11:14 PM
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Subject: Latest news about marine biology
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23411 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into a
body of water it did not come from.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23412 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Well, I could suggest another Sunfish species to you which also sounds
very similar, but without seeing a photo we are just guessing. While
it could be a mutant (or a hybrid), the odds are that its just some
species of Sunfish which you are unfamiliar with. The Acantharchus
pomotis (common name, if any, unknown) seems to also fit your
description, it also having horizontal lines, although I don't know if
its found in your area. There aren't that many species in the Family
which have horizontal stripes. There are at least 32 different species
of sunfish and black bass which may be found in the large general area
of the midwest including your area, and this doesn't cover the east of
the Alleghany's or the South, nor any of the smaller, more coastal
and/or pygmy sunfish (which we can rule out). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, elementalclay@... wrote:
>
> Sorry I didn't tell you the eye of this fish is very black with no
> red.
> The friend that caught it has been fishing these Minnesota waters
for
> over 40 years and says she cannot remember ever seeing anything like
it.
> Might be a mutant. It has almost invisable verticle yellow stripes
> and the slightest hint of yellow on the end of the tail.
> Another weird thing is that my brownish grey 'goldfish" turned from
> that color to bright yellow with black fins and tail and now is
turning
> goldish all within a month.
> Roxanne
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23413 From: Donna Ransome Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering him on. If
you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some traveling.
Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not a
natural body of water.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of elementalclay@...
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!



Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into a
body of water it did not come from.
Roxanne



Messages
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2Mzc2az
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k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2xpbm
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Zm9rBF9
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hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23414 From: barbie4527 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: What is best water to use??
Hello, I am glad to find this group! I have had fresh water tanks for
many years, but I want to try my hand at saltwater. I keep reading
about how fragile these fish are. I am planning on getting live sand
and rock to cycle the tank. What water is best to use. I keep
reading about reverse osmosis. I really dont want to go that route.
How long should I let the tank operate before trying a few fish in
it? Any other hints would be appreciated! Thanks Barbi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23415 From: Eric Roberts Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Which is fine until you have a flood…that is what happened with the asian
carp that now plague the Midwest. They were being farmed and when the big
floods hit the Midwest several years ago, they escaped into the wild.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 5:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!



Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering him on. If
you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some traveling.
Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not a
natural body of water.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into a
body of water it did not come from.
Roxanne

Messages
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23416 From: Francina Martinez Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
This is the original post, he clearly says that he caught them in a creek and released them in a pond, big NO NO!
Hello!!! I recently went fishing with friends in a local creek. Wecaught at least 30 fish.I brought home 10 fish(1 bass, 3 blue gills,3 red eyes, & 3 pumkinseeds). I kept the pumkinseeds & released theothers in a local pond. The pumkinseeds are quite beautiful. They haveyellow-orange fins & blue-green markings on their faces. Pumkinseedsare in the sunfish family, they are a cousin to a bluegill. Theyremind me of a cichlid. I plan on going back to fish in the same spotsoon & hopefully catch some more.
Here's the link to the Tennesee state home page for the original poster to research state laws and regulations regarding the transport and relocation of fish into a body of water that they didn't come from.
http://www.state.tn.us/twra/fish/fishmain.html


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: woad@...: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 16:31:46 -0500Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!




Which is fine until you have a flood�that is what happened with the asiancarp that now plague the Midwest. They were being farmed and when the bigfloods hit the Midwest several years ago, they escaped into the wild. EricFrom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] OnBehalf Of Donna RansomeSent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 5:32 AMTo: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comSubject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering him on. Ifyou have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some traveling.Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not anatural body of water._____ From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]OnBehalf Of elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AMTo: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into abody of water it did not come from.RoxanneMessages<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2Mzc2azFxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lkAzIzNDExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQR0cGNJZAMyMzM3Nw--> in thistopic (0)<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lkAzIzNDExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?act=reply&messageNum=23411> Reply(via web post) | Start<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNW1vN2xlBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA250cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> a new topic Messages<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/messages;_ylc=X3oDMTJldHBzMGEyBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA21zZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Files<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2ZpbGVzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Photos<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9pBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Bob3QEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Links<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2xpbmtzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Database<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Zm9rBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2RiBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Polls<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls;_ylc=X3oDMTJmY2UzcGE0BF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3BvbGxzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Calendar<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/calendar;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ2hoaGNlBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA2NhbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed][Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23417 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores were
wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
wild.

Kelly



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
him on. If
> you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
traveling.
> Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not
a
> natural body of water.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of elementalclay@...
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
> Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
into a
> body of water it did not come from.
> Roxanne
>
>
>
> Messages
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23418 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: How many tanks do you own, and what fish do you have in them?
I have:

One 5 gallon with one betta
One 32 gallon with two fantail goldfish (used to be a tropical but I
switched it over and gave away my tropicals)

One 120 gallon pond with four comets.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23419 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
The whole story is I was collecting plants with a lunch sized cooler.
The fish was caught (not by me) and I didn't think is was going to live.
Certainly didn't think it would survive in a gallon of water full of
plants for 45 minutes.
I brought it home to try to identify it and since it was still alive I
put it in my 75 gallon tank.
I think some folks may have gotten me bringing home one fish and
someone else bringing home fish and releasing them mixed up.
Bottom line. The fish I brought home was going to end up in a frying
pan and didn't.
People do things without knowing the consequences. Tis better to
guide than to chide.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23420 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Kelly,

Many many people keep wild caught fish as pets.

As far as native fish?in North America check out www Nanfa org? Beautiful native species, many people that keep these cannot fathom why many of us keep tropic fishes from other continents.? The fish they have on their homepage rivals most of my tropicals.

I have gone collecting in Peru for wild fish as well as many of my friends.

As far as cruelty I beg to differ, but will not go into details.

I will share the example that there are many species of fish that no longer exist in the wild, and it is not because these fish were over collected.? It is from habitat loss.? I recently acquired some Malagasy cichlids that are extinct in the wild.? I feel like I must succesfully breed these to help keep them from disappearing altogether.? Endler's livebearers are another fish that?might be either extinct in the wild or at best endangered.? The cause is habitat loss, or pollution in this case.? I have kept them and bred them and get pretty upset when I see that someone has hybridized them with common guppies.? I enjoy them in their natural colors and free from guppy genes.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: kelly_anne333 <kelly_anne333@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 31 Jul 2007 6:50 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!








I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores were
wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
wild.

Kelly







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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23421 From: elementalclay@webtv.net Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Mike,
Thank you for your thoughful post.
I raise heirloom vegetables for the same reason, to save them.
I do not breed any animals.
Cudos to you for keeping the genetics of the species pure.
Roxanne
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23422 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Eric, et al,

What do you propose about breeders, aquaculture, etc.? Most fish that are
in the hobby or that are farmed for food do not originally come from the USA
or they are non-indigenous species in the area where they are being farmed,
yet they are bred in farm ponds or other interior/exterior ponds subject to
accidents or acts of God. Any of these would be subject to be released into
nature.

There's a huge difference between an intentional act versus an accident or
an act of God. When Hurricane Andrew and other hurricanes hit southern
Florida and when Hurricane Katrina hit my area, lots of the fish that were
in private ponds, breeding ponds/tanks, the Zoo, etc., were "released" by
the flood waters and now inhabit the lakes, bayous, etc.

The same thing could happen to someone who had a non-indigenous fish tank in
their home since the flood waters were 8'+ in the city of New Orleans.
Technically, keeping a sunfish in a pond or tank, which could escape in a
flood, would be less harmful than keeping goldfish, Koi, tropical fish,
etc.... which are far less indigenous than a sunfish caught from a lake in
the area. I would guess that 99% of hobby fish are not indigenous to the
USA.

I'm all for being responsible fish owners but be careful where we point
fingers as there could be a mirror on the wall. :-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Which is fine until you have a flood…that is what happened with the asian
carp that now plague the Midwest. They were being farmed and when the big
floods hit the Midwest several years ago, they escaped into the wild.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 5:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering him on. If
you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some traveling.
Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not a
natural body of water.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
<mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into a body
of water it did not come from.
Roxanne

Messages
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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5:02 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23423 From: lseldin Date: 7/31/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
>>I am planning on getting live sand
> and rock to cycle the tank. What water is best to use. I keep
> reading about reverse osmosis. I really don't want to go that route.

Barbie,

I restarted my Salt Water Fish only tank this past year. However, I
did not research on the web forums and took my LFS advice. Let's say,
I regret this...


Here is some generic advice I have collected that I wish I took.
Definitely, get live sand and live rock. Don't do anything fake (like
I did), in addition, fake stuff costs a lot anyway.

Now, for the toys.

1) For salt water, you have to get a skimmer. There are many brands
that don't work, so do your research. The skimmer is better than just
a filter, so buy the skimmer...

2) I drastically improved my chemicals (water quality), because I did
not realize that my tap water was deficient in many areas. If you
don't like plumbing, here is how I did it. I took a faucet and plugged
my RO unit into a hose that plugs into the faucet. I turn it on when I
want RO water. In addition, I bought a shut off valve for my basis so
I won't have spills.

3) I guess you don't want an RO unit because of possibly some of these
reasons (cost, water leaks, plumbing), however, RO water is a dramatic
increase in water quality.

Hope this helps.

larryTAKEOUT@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23424 From: K. T. Kinnavy Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Help identifying a fish
I took this photo last year in Palau and have not been able to identify it.
Can anyone help? Thanks, Kitty


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23425 From: Francina Martinez Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Some people catch them for observation and research and some do it for hobby or both. Species that are of special concern or threatened or endangered can better be observed in a controlled environment to learn what their needs are and under what conditions they spawn, etc. This way information and data is collected on the species for future reference. Having worked at a facility that specialized in spawning and rearing threatened and endangered species, it was helpful when there was research partially done already on what steps we needed to take to preserve the species.To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: kelly_anne333@...: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 01:50:29 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!



















I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores were
wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
wild.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
him on. If
> you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
traveling.
> Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not
a
> natural body of water.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of elementalclay@...
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
> Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
into a
> body of water it did not come from.
> Roxanne
>
>
>
> Messages
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2
Mzc2az
>
FxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lk
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> in this
> topic (0)
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0B
F9TAzk
>
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> mdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?
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> (via web post) | Start
>
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>
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>
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> hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
















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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23426 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal for that
matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local habitat tank
together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your last
statement were true, then we wouldn’t be having this conversation as this
hobby would not exist to begin with.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!




I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores were
wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
wild.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
him on. If
> you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
traveling.
> Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not
a
> natural body of water.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of elementalclay@...
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
> Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
into a
> body of water it did not come from.
> Roxanne
>
>
>
> Messages
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2
Mzc2az
>
FxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lk
AzIzND
> ExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQR0cGNJZAMyMzM3Nw--
> in this
> topic (0)
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0B
F9TAzk
>
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HNlYwN
> mdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?
act=reply&messageNum=23411> Reply
> (via web post) | Start
>
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F9TAzk
>
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250cGM
> Ec3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> a new topic
>
> Messages
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/messages;_ylc=X3oDMTJldHBzM
GEyBF9
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
2xrA21
> zZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Files
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04
BF9TAz
>
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> VzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Photos
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9
pBF9TA
>
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> 3QEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Links
>
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>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Z
m9rBF9
>
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BF9TAz
>
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>
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2xrA2N
> hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23427 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
I was just pointing out that just because it is an artificial pond it is not
a safe thing to do.





Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!



Eric, et al,

What do you propose about breeders, aquaculture, etc.? Most fish that are
in the hobby or that are farmed for food do not originally come from the USA
or they are non-indigenous species in the area where they are being farmed,
yet they are bred in farm ponds or other interior/exterior ponds subject to
accidents or acts of God. Any of these would be subject to be released into
nature.

There's a huge difference between an intentional act versus an accident or
an act of God. When Hurricane Andrew and other hurricanes hit southern
Florida and when Hurricane Katrina hit my area, lots of the fish that were
in private ponds, breeding ponds/tanks, the Zoo, etc., were "released" by
the flood waters and now inhabit the lakes, bayous, etc.

The same thing could happen to someone who had a non-indigenous fish tank in
their home since the flood waters were 8'+ in the city of New Orleans.
Technically, keeping a sunfish in a pond or tank, which could escape in a
flood, would be less harmful than keeping goldfish, Koi, tropical fish,
etc.... which are far less indigenous than a sunfish caught from a lake in
the area. I would guess that 99% of hobby fish are not indigenous to the
USA.

I'm all for being responsible fish owners but be careful where we point
fingers as there could be a mirror on the wall. :-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 4:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Which is fine until you have a flood…that is what happened with the asian
carp that now plague the Midwest. They were being farmed and when the big
floods hit the Midwest several years ago, they escaped into the wild.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 5:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering him on. If
you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some traveling.
Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and not a
natural body of water.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
elementalclay@... <mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
<mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
<mailto:elementalclay%40webtv.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back into a body
of water it did not come from.
Roxanne

Messages
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2Mzc2az
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04BF9TAz
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04BF9TAz
>
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9pBF9TA
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9pBF9TA
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0BF9TAz
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0BF9TAz
>
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Zm9rBF9
>
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iBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Polls
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls;_ylc=X3oDMTJmY2UzcGE0BF9TAz
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls;_ylc=X3oDMTJmY2UzcGE0BF9TAz
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3BvbG
xzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Calendar
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/calendar;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ2hoaGNlBF9
>
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hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23428 From: April Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
I have had a salt water aquarium for 2 years now and I had always
used tap water and put the conditioners in it to get rid of the
chlorine. The past couple of months I have started using RO water to
do my water changes. With the tap water I had problems with algae.
Once a week I would have to scrape the algae off the side of the
tank. Now that I have been using the RO water I haven't had to
scrape anything off except the Coraline algae which is the purple and
red colored circle looking stuff on the rock but it will grow
anywhere in the tank. I would definitely say go RO. I buy my water
from the local store Three Bears which is like Costco. I buy it in 5
gallon bottles. I had to pay $15 for the water and the bottle the
first time but now I only pay for the water because I bring the
bottles back. So I pay $5 for the water.

Just as Larry said you have to have a skimmer. I didn't have one to
start with and then talked to people at the LFS and found out they
are a must. I saw what the skimmer pulled off of the water and it
made me sick to my stomach to think that I was leaving that in the
tank with the fish.

Keeping track of the water quality is a must also. Another thing
about tap water is that it usually contians about 20ppm of nitrates
or at least it does here in my city water. The RO water doesn't have
any. The less the better. But anyway test your water once a week.

As far as how long to wait before adding fish well I waited 3 months
before I put any fish in. You don't have to wait this long. I have
read in books that some people will set up their tanks and through a
dead fish in the tank to cycle faster. Also some people will put
some fish like damsels that are really hardy in there and let it
cycle. You just have to wait until you get good readings for quality.

Well sorry that this is so long. I hope this helps out some.

April







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lseldin" <larry@...> wrote:
>
> >>I am planning on getting live sand
> > and rock to cycle the tank. What water is best to use. I keep
> > reading about reverse osmosis. I really don't want to go that
route.
>
> Barbie,
>
> I restarted my Salt Water Fish only tank this past year. However, I
> did not research on the web forums and took my LFS advice. Let's
say,
> I regret this...
>
>
> Here is some generic advice I have collected that I wish I took.
> Definitely, get live sand and live rock. Don't do anything fake
(like
> I did), in addition, fake stuff costs a lot anyway.
>
> Now, for the toys.
>
> 1) For salt water, you have to get a skimmer. There are many brands
> that don't work, so do your research. The skimmer is better than
just
> a filter, so buy the skimmer...
>
> 2) I drastically improved my chemicals (water quality), because I
did
> not realize that my tap water was deficient in many areas. If you
> don't like plumbing, here is how I did it. I took a faucet and
plugged
> my RO unit into a hose that plugs into the faucet. I turn it on
when I
> want RO water. In addition, I bought a shut off valve for my basis
so
> I won't have spills.
>
> 3) I guess you don't want an RO unit because of possibly some of
these
> reasons (cost, water leaks, plumbing), however, RO water is a
dramatic
> increase in water quality.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> larryTAKEOUT@...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23429 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container is
probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we born
and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all fish
were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish store
fish don't know anything but a tank.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal
for that
> matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local
habitat tank
> together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your
last
> statement were true, then we wouldn't be having this conversation
as this
> hobby would not exist to begin with.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
>
> I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
> I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores
were
> wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
> pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
> wild.
>
> Kelly
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
> him on. If
> > you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
> traveling.
> > Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and
not
> a
> > natural body of water.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of elementalclay@
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
> into a
> > body of water it did not come from.
> > Roxanne
> >
> >
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2
> Mzc2az
> >
>
FxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lk
> AzIzND
> > ExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQR0cGNJZAMyMzM3Nw--
> > in this
> > topic (0)
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0B
> F9TAzk
> >
>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lkAzIzNDExB
> HNlYwN
> > mdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?
> act=reply&messageNum=23411> Reply
> > (via web post) | Start
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNW1vN2xlB
> F9TAzk
> >
>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA
> 250cGM
> > Ec3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> a new topic
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/messages;_ylc=X3oDMTJldHBzM
> GEyBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA21
> > zZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Files
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A2ZpbG
> > VzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Photos
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9
> pBF9TA
> >
>
zk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2x
> rA3Bob
> > 3QEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Links
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A2xpbm
> > tzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Database
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Z
> m9rBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2R
> > iBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Polls
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls;_ylc=X3oDMTJmY2UzcGE0
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A3BvbG
> > xzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Calendar
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/calendar;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ2hoa
> GNlBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2N
> > hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23430 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Free from predation, sometimes hand fed, swimming up to the glass waiting eagerly for food.? Wild caughts do pretty well in our tanks.? Generally grow much larger than in the wild and live longer.?


-----Original Message-----
From: kelly_anne333 <kelly_anne333@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 4:11 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!







I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container is
probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we born
and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all fish
were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish store
fish don't know anything but a tank.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal
for that
> matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local
habitat tank
> together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your
last
> statement were true, then we wouldn't be having this conversation
as this
> hobby would not exist to begin with.
>
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23431 From: William Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Most salt water fish are still wild caught. Yes there are more and
more that are either tank raised or caught young and raised in tanks
but the vast number of salt water fish still are caught in the wild.
And there are many fresh water fish that have not been bred in
captivity so they are still caught in the wild. Also some fish like
the cardinal tetras probably are better caught in the wild. That is
the natives will catch them and help protect the lands that they
live in. Cardinal tetras (and some other fish ) are very numerous
and during the dry season will die when the waters recede so when
the natives collect them it does not decrease the numbers of the
fish but gives then money to catch them and help to protect the
areas that they live in.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
<kelly_anne333@...> wrote:
>
>
> I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container
is
> probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we
born
> and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all
fish
> were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish
store
> fish don't know anything but a tank.
>
> Kelly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23432 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Hey, thanks for the info. That was helpful. I cant find any cheap Ro water here. I just read about tap water purifiers. I may check into that too. I did get a few damsels in the tank. The water checked out okay....so I will see. Thanks, Barbi


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: black_sun99@...: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 17:52:53 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What is best water to use??




I have had a salt water aquarium for 2 years now and I had always used tap water and put the conditioners in it to get rid of the chlorine. The past couple of months I have started using RO water to do my water changes. With the tap water I had problems with algae. Once a week I would have to scrape the algae off the side of the tank. Now that I have been using the RO water I haven't had to scrape anything off except the Coraline algae which is the purple and red colored circle looking stuff on the rock but it will grow anywhere in the tank. I would definitely say go RO. I buy my water from the local store Three Bears which is like Costco. I buy it in 5 gallon bottles. I had to pay $15 for the water and the bottle the first time but now I only pay for the water because I bring the bottles back. So I pay $5 for the water. Just as Larry said you have to have a skimmer. I didn't have one to start with and then talked to people at the LFS and found out they are a must. I saw what the skimmer pulled off of the water and it made me sick to my stomach to think that I was leaving that in the tank with the fish.Keeping track of the water quality is a must also. Another thing about tap water is that it usually contians about 20ppm of nitrates or at least it does here in my city water. The RO water doesn't have any. The less the better. But anyway test your water once a week.As far as how long to wait before adding fish well I waited 3 months before I put any fish in. You don't have to wait this long. I have read in books that some people will set up their tanks and through a dead fish in the tank to cycle faster. Also some people will put some fish like damsels that are really hardy in there and let it cycle. You just have to wait until you get good readings for quality.Well sorry that this is so long. I hope this helps out some.April--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "lseldin" <larry@...> wrote:>> >>I am planning on getting live sand > > and rock to cycle the tank. What water is best to use. I keep > > reading about reverse osmosis. I really don't want to go that route. > > Barbie,> > I restarted my Salt Water Fish only tank this past year. However, I> did not research on the web forums and took my LFS advice. Let's say,> I regret this...> > > Here is some generic advice I have collected that I wish I took.> Definitely, get live sand and live rock. Don't do anything fake (like> I did), in addition, fake stuff costs a lot anyway.> > Now, for the toys. > > 1) For salt water, you have to get a skimmer. There are many brands> that don't work, so do your research. The skimmer is better than just> a filter, so buy the skimmer...> > 2) I drastically improved my chemicals (water quality), because I did> not realize that my tap water was deficient in many areas. If you> don't like plumbing, here is how I did it. I took a faucet and plugged> my RO unit into a hose that plugs into the faucet. I turn it on when I> want RO water. In addition, I bought a shut off valve for my basis so> I won't have spills.> > 3) I guess you don't want an RO unit because of possibly some of these> reasons (cost, water leaks, plumbing), however, RO water is a dramatic> increase in water quality.> > Hope this helps.> > larryTAKEOUT@...>


_________________________________________________________________
See what you�re getting into�before you go there.
http://newlivehotmail.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23433 From: Antony Dalton Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: What is best water to use??
Depending on the size of your tank, you may want to consider buying either
RO or salt water from your LFS. The bigger the tank, the more expensive it
is and the more you might want to consider your own RO unit. Don't forget
to add in the cost of frequent water changes. DO NIT TRY TO GET AWAY WITH
TAP WATER. You will regret it.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23434 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Unless they were bred in captivity, that is not true. Many fish that we
have do not breed in captivity so they are brought in from wild sources.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 6:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!




I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container is
probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we born
and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all fish
were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish store
fish don't know anything but a tank.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal
for that
> matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local
habitat tank
> together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your
last
> statement were true, then we wouldn't be having this conversation
as this
> hobby would not exist to begin with.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
>
> I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
> I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores
were
> wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
> pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
> wild.
>
> Kelly
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
> him on. If
> > you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
> traveling.
> > Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and
not
> a
> > natural body of water.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of elementalclay@
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
> into a
> > body of water it did not come from.
> > Roxanne
> >
> >
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2
> Mzc2az
> >
>
FxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lk
> AzIzND
> > ExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQR0cGNJZAMyMzM3Nw--
> > in this
> > topic (0)
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0B
> F9TAzk
> >
>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lkAzIzNDExB
> HNlYwN
> > mdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?
> act=reply&messageNum=23411> Reply
> > (via web post) | Start
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNW1vN2xlB
> F9TAzk
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>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA
> 250cGM
> > Ec3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> a new topic
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/messages;_ylc=X3oDMTJldHBzM
> GEyBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA21
> > zZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Files
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A2ZpbG
> > VzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Photos
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9
> pBF9TA
> >
>
zk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2x
> rA3Bob
> > 3QEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Links
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0
> BF9TAz
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> A2xpbm
> > tzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Database
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Z
> m9rBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2R
> > iBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Polls
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> A3BvbG
> > xzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Calendar
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/calendar;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ2hoa
> GNlBF9
> >
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TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2N
> > hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> >
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> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23435 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: thanks for the suggestion
Thanks to someone mentioning the problem on my stills page from the underwater camera. I have made adjustments to the page and hope it has rectified the problem.

http://shadows-place.com/stills.html

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23436 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Eric,



Exactly.

I think it is Manaus Brazil that has a program called "buy a fish, save a tree."  The local people collect tetras and other species of fish that are shipped out to North America, Europe and the East.  Keeping locals employed in the fish industry keeps the jungle and local vegetation from being burned out for crop use or cattle grazing.

The tetras come back every year in the same amount, they have been takings stats on this for quite some time.

So....Buy a Fish and Save a Tree folks.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Eric Roberts <woad@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 6:28 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!







Unless they were bred in captivity, that is not true. Many fish that we
have do not breed in captivity so they are brought in from wild sources.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Wednesday, August 01, 2007 6:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!

I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container is
probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we born
and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all fish
were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish store
fish don't know anything but a tank.

Kelly

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal
for that
> matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local
habitat tank
> together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your
last
> statement were true, then we wouldn't be having this conversation
as this
> hobby would not exist to begin with.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of kelly_anne333
> Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 8:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
>
> I don't understand why people are keeping wild fish as pets anyway.
> I realize at one point or another, most fish in the fish stores
were
> wild, but catching fish from a lake and putting them in a tank or
> pond is cruel IMO. They grew up in the wild and should stay in the
> wild.
>
> Kelly
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Ah, but the OP did that and everyone else appears to be cheering
> him on. If
> > you have never seen the devastation this can cause, do some
> traveling.
> > Unless of course the OP's "pond" was private with no outlet and
not
> a
> > natural body of water.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of elementalclay@
> > Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2007 3:41 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Lighten up, I know the laws and would never release a fish back
> into a
> > body of water it did not come from.
> > Roxanne
> >
> >
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/message/23377;_ylc=X3oDMTM2
> Mzc2az
> >
>
FxBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lk
> AzIzND
> > ExBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA3Z0cGMEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQR0cGNJZAMyMzM3Nw--
> > in this
> > topic (0)
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJxNnM4YTh0B
> F9TAzk
> >
>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBG1zZ0lkAzIzNDExB
> HNlYwN
> > mdHIEc2xrA3JwbHkEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--?
> act=reply&messageNum=23411> Reply
> > (via web post) | Start
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/post;_ylc=X3oDMTJlNW1vN2xlB
> F9TAzk
> >
>
3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xrA
> 250cGM
> > Ec3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> a new topic
> >
> > Messages
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/messages;_ylc=X3oDMTJldHBzM
> GEyBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA21
> > zZ3MEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Files
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files;_ylc=X3oDMTJmZWlydW04
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A2ZpbG
> > VzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Photos
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos;_ylc=X3oDMTJlYXNxcG9
> pBF9TA
> >
>
zk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2x
> rA3Bob
> > 3QEc3RpbWUDMTE4NTg2NzY3NQ--> | Links
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/links;_ylc=X3oDMTJmdmVrZWg0
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A2xpbm
> > tzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Database
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/database;_ylc=X3oDMTJjYmR1Z
> m9rBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2R
> > iBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Polls
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls;_ylc=X3oDMTJmY2UzcGE0
> BF9TAz
> >
>
k3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc2xr
> A3BvbG
> > xzBHN0aW1lAzExODU4Njc2NzU-> | Calendar
> >
>
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/calendar;_ylc=X3oDMTJkZ2hoa
> GNlBF9
> >
>
TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzg0OTUxNTcEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA1MDQyNzUyBHNlYwNmdHIEc
> 2xrA2N
> > hbARzdGltZQMxMTg1ODY3Njc1>
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
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>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23437 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/1/2007
Subject: Re: thanks for the suggestion
Hi Richard,

I took up underwater photography some time ago when I was Scuba diving
in the Carri bean.
What I found is a lot of the quality of the picture depends on good
condition and then proper use
of the better equipment. I started with a 110 type film camera called a
Vivitar inside a zip like bag.
My pictures looked like the ones you have. Then I got the real thing and
with a Nikon and external flash
with practice, I took some really great pictures. I also studied under
some who were in the business down there.
Your pictures might give you better results if you close down on the
iris, increasing depth of field and at
the same time see if you can doctor some of the finished product using
computer programs that allow you to increase
contrast and reduce brightness. There used to be a program called Thumbs
Plus that allowed this but I am sure
there are a lot more programs by now that do just as well. Maybe Photo
Shop from Adobe?
Just a suggestion to make your product better. I took my first pictures
in Pearl Lake near or in Wisconsin.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
(630) 616-0932 Office

Richard Rattie wrote:
>
> Thanks to someone mentioning the problem on my stills page from the
> underwater camera. I have made adjustments to the page and hope it has
> rectified the problem.
>
> http://shadows-place.com/stills.html
> <http://shadows-place.com/stills.html>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23438 From: barbie4527 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Heat Wave In Ohio
Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan
blowing near the tank. Thanks, Barbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23439 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
What if you took some of your tank water that you know is all balanced and made ice cubes out of it.....get trays just for this purpose and clean them really good.....make the cubes and float them....you can either make fresh water and treat it or continue to dip out some of the current water.....won't take too much to make a few ice cubes....

Cory S. Walter

Have a wonderful, blessed day!



----- Original Message ----
From: barbie4527 <Birdlady746@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2007 11:04:54 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio

Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan
blowing near the tank. Thanks, Barbie






____________________________________________________________________________________
Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.
http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23440 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Welp, I use a canister filter, and when it gets really hot out here, I'll
put the canister in a small plastic tub and put ice around it, making it a
cheapy chiller, leaving the heater on of corse to make sure it doesn't get
too cool while I do that.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of barbie4527
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio



Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23441 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Hi Barbie,

There a few things that you can do to lower tank temps a little and some are more extravagant that others.
1) I keep a bottle of water the Quart size of Gatorade in the freezer and then upon my fish tank temps going above 81 I place that in there to slooowly drop a degree or two. The fish like to have this in there as they swim around it but care must be taken not to drop temp too fast in a smaller tank- this tank is 55 gal.
2)To some extent adding fresh water to a tank to the degree or 25% of it's volume may help in a few cases. But there is a limit to how much of the water you can change out during a weeks time- there is the Chlorine/Chloramine issue to have to deal with.
3) You could place a fan so that it goes across the water surface as evaporation will cause some slight heat drop but depending on the room temperature if you buy some 1/2" or 3/4" foam insulation and tape it around you tank sides and back you can stop some heat transfer from room to tank.
4) There is sold a Peltier Effect device for smaller tanks that takes heat out of the water and directs it to the air. This requires electrical power and is not regulated by itself. I have built one of these types of devices myself using all kinds of heat sinks that I had around but they use a good amount of DC power so the supply has to be located outside of the cooled environment while the fan on the hot side transfers the heat taken out of the tank into the air- thus the need for the insulation. These are more or less solid state air conditioners.
5) If you have the money about $700-$800 you could hook up a circulation pump to a chiller device and these are regulated- really little water refrigerators.
6) If water is cheap in your area and it comes out of your faucet at 50 degrees eventually, you could make a heat exchanger using copper pipe where the cold water could be driven through a copper coil that is placed in the tank and then dumped into the drain- you would be using water as a cooling medium.

Just a few ideas I have had with regard to this subject or problem.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, WMBI Chief Engineer
Moody Broadcasting Network
820 North LaSalle Blvd.
Chicago, IL. 60610
312-329-2043
708-334-2260 Cell


barbie4527 <Birdlady746@...> wrote: Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan
blowing near the tank. Thanks, Barbie






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23442 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
You could also do more frequent water changes and add cooler water or pull
water out and cool it down with ice and then replace it to keep the temps
down. I have heard of people taking ice and outing it in plastic bags and
putting that into the tank.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of barbie4527
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio



Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan
blowing near the tank. Thanks, Barbie





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23443 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Well eventually if they get used to it, then that is good. But at
first they must be scared shitless.

Kelly


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> Free from predation, sometimes hand fed, swimming up to the glass
waiting eagerly for food.? Wild caughts do pretty well in our tanks.?
Generally grow much larger than in the wild and live longer.?
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kelly_anne333 <kelly_anne333@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 4:11 pm
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container
is
> probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we
born
> and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all fish
> were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish
store
> fish don't know anything but a tank.
>
> Kelly
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@> wrote:
> >
> > How is that any more cruel than keeping any other fish (or animal
> for that
> > matter)? I have often thought about putting together a local
> habitat tank
> > together. Native fish are just as cool as tropical fish. If your
> last
> > statement were true, then we wouldn't be having this conversation
> as this
> > hobby would not exist to begin with.
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23444 From: lseldin Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
>> Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. <<

Barbie,

I just went through this. Here is my solution. You mentioned the fan.
Well, here was my problem. My canopy on top of the tank was narrow and
blocked the fan from flowing over the top of the water.

I found the fan worked tremendously better after I removed the canopy.
The concept is the larger the surface area the fan will go over the
better. Then, I had to deal with the open top, where I worried about
fish jumping out. I found a nice solution.

First determine, if the fan, increases the productivity for you when
their is not canopy on the top. When you are satisfied, go to Home
Depot and buy "plastic" not "metal" chicken wire. It come in a roll of
around 40 feet for $10 dollars or so. The color I saw was green
plastic. The chickwire is easily cut by a scissor and can bend easily
to fit around your equipment. Also, my holes in the chicken wire is 1
inch square, so a lot of surface area is exposed with limiting fish
jumping out that are small.

In addition, here are some other things I did. For fish, I found out,
that the fish, don't like more than a 4 degree temperature swing in a
daily period. I also found out that the maximum temperature for
average salt water fish, is around 82 degrees. So to reduce AC costs,
I slowly increased the temperature to 82 degrees with my heater. So
now, the fish are used to 82 degrees. I also keep the fan on, so that
if it gets cool at night, the heater goes on. So the fluctuation is small.

However, my fan is small, and I have to put the AC on when the
temperature rises to around 85 degrees. So the concept is the fan, is
not a total solution to extreme heat, but can reduce temperature by a
couple of degrees. Now, if you buy a larger fan, I bet you can get
better results.

The key, is to keep canopy off (and with the plastic chicken wire),
the fish will hopefully not jump out, unless your fish are small.

I have this setup now for about 2 months. My tank is located in my
home office, so the room gets hot.

Hope this helps...

larryTAKEOUT@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23445 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Pumkinseeds!!!!!
Yes and I'm very against keeping saltwater fish due to that very
reason. Many of them are becoming more and more rare in the wild,
and most will not breed in captivity. Those who keep saltwater fish
try and convince themselves that they are doing a "greater deed" by
conserving part of nature but that is utter baloney. They are better
left in the wild where they belong. I only buy tank raised fish.

Kelly



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...>
wrote:
>
> Most salt water fish are still wild caught. Yes there are more and
> more that are either tank raised or caught young and raised in
tanks
> but the vast number of salt water fish still are caught in the
wild.
> And there are many fresh water fish that have not been bred in
> captivity so they are still caught in the wild. Also some fish like
> the cardinal tetras probably are better caught in the wild. That
is
> the natives will catch them and help protect the lands that they
> live in. Cardinal tetras (and some other fish ) are very numerous
> and during the dry season will die when the waters recede so when
> the natives collect them it does not decrease the numbers of the
> fish but gives then money to catch them and help to protect the
> areas that they live in.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly_anne333"
> <kelly_anne333@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I just think it's mean because being placed in a closed container
> is
> > probably much more traumatizing for a wild fish than one that we
> born
> > and bred in a tank. They are probably terrified. I realize all
> fish
> > were once wild, but that's not the case anymore. Most pet fish
> store
> > fish don't know anything but a tank.
> >
> > Kelly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23446 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Increase surface agitation by raising your filter so the returning water
makes more of a splash. Increase aeration with airstones, etc. Take a fan
on a pedestal or stand and aim it so it is blowing on the top of the water
along with the other things and this will lower the water temp and increase
the O2 content of the water which is necessary when the water gets warm as
it will naturally hold much less O2 at higher temps. You won't be able to
get it much lower than the room temp but at least the O2 levels will be high
enough so that your fish do not suffocate.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of barbie4527
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio

Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable when the
temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps rising. I dont
have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan blowing near the tank.
Thanks, Barbie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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4:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23447 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Besides my previous email, you could also freeze bottles of water and float
them in the tank, adjusting the number of bottles to keep the temp cooler
and constant. This isn't the best thing unless you are going to keep up the
constant changing of frozen bottles as you do not want the temp bouncing up
and down... this is more stressful to the fish than a constant temp that
might not be their preferred temperature.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of The Dragon Hunter
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio

Welp, I use a canister filter, and when it gets really hot out here, I'll
put the canister in a small plastic tub and put ice around it, making it a
cheapy chiller, leaving the heater on of corse to make sure it doesn't get
too cool while I do that.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of barbie4527
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 8:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio

Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable when the
temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps rising. I dont
have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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4:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23448 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
Thanks for all th great hints. I think I can deal with this situation now. I have only had these fish for about a week, so I am kinda paranoid about them. I keep checking to see if they are okay. Thanks again. Barbie

http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23449 From: Rob Steele Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: air pump recommendation
hi,
i want to replace an old and noisy air pump in my 20 gallon freshwater
aquarium. Can someone recommend a quieter pump under $40?
thanks,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23450 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: Heat Wave In Ohio
I call the air conditioner guys because I now have central air <g>.

Now, to your problem. I don't know if it is worth it to you to get a
room air conditioner for those 5 days a year you really need to use it,
but that would be one way to cool down the room. When I lived in New
England, I never succumbed to the temptation.

The other ideas are pretty good, but no one mentioned the old tubing in
a dorm fridge method of creating a chiller. If you are using a canister
filter, you can use that to push the water through, otherwise you would
need to get a pump to do that, either a power head of sufficient
strength or a water pump. Pretty much what you do is get a bunch of
tubing--if you can afford copper it is the best, but regular aquarium
tubing will do. You drill two holes in the wall of the fridge, coil the
tubing in the fridge, poke the ends out the holes, and seal them with
silicone or another sealant that is compatible with your tubing and the
fridge exterior. Connect one end to a siphon in the tank (or your
canister filter) and place the other end as a return. Start your fridge
up (on a cold setting, you'll need to experiment) and fire the pump or
filter up. It will take a while for the water to cool, but it will.

I did, for some time, have a basement, where the majority of my tanks
were kept, and that never got too warm. However, this may not be a
viable solution unless you have a large number of tanks. When your
display tank upstairs starts getting too warm, the fish could be moved
to a waiting tank (yeah, a wait tank--who has one of those) until the
hot spell passes and things cool down in the display tank.

The fish can take more heat than you think. The important factor is the
amount of oxygen available to them. I think it was Lenny who brought up
this point. The problem is that the warmer the water, the less dissolved
oxygen it can hold before reaching saturation. At the temperatures we
are talking about, you may be OK if, and that is a big IF, the fish are
the only ones utilizing the oxygen. Unfortunately, they are not, and you
can end with a less than ideal amount of oxygen will be available for
the fish to use. The use of aeration will help in this area. If you look
at the first hart on this page, you will get an idea of the downward
slope of dissolved oxygen needed for a saturation level as the water
temperature rises. The chart looks to be right, but I cannot easily
locate my book that would confirm this. Visit
http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/do.html for the chart, as well as some
discussion of oxygen and water and fish. I did not read it, so I take no
responsibility for this being accurate information.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of barbie4527
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Heat Wave In Ohio

Would like to hear any solutions to keeping your water temp stable
when the temps soar. It is in the 90's here and my tank temp keeps
rising. I dont have central air, but I am trying to keep a fan
blowing near the tank. Thanks, Barbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23451 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/2/2007
Subject: Re: air pump recommendation
I've owned a couple of Rena brand air pumps for 2-3 years and they are
quiet. The key is to make sure they are on a surface that does not create
noise. Put a piece of carpet or filter polypad down and then put the pump
on top of it so the pump won't vibrate like on a hard surface.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rob Steele
Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 12:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] air pump recommendation

hi,
i want to replace an old and noisy air pump in my 20 gallon freshwater
aquarium. Can someone recommend a quieter pump under $40?
thanks,



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.2/931 - Release Date: 8/1/2007
4:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23452 From: Just ask me Date: 8/3/2007
Subject: New rare Glass Sponge Reefs found
Thirty miles west of Grays Harbor, University of Washington scientists
have discovered large colonies of glass sponges thriving on the
seafloor. The species of glass sponges capable of building reefs were
thought extinct for 100 million years until they were found in recent
years in the protected waters of Canada's Georgia and Hecata straits,
the only place in the world they've been observed until now. Read more
at my Blog Marine Animal news <http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/>
and view the vivid under water glass spong reefs at Videos of blue
waters <http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23453 From: Nedra Jansen Date: 8/3/2007
Subject: Heat Wave In Ohio
I also am struggling with the heat in a little outdoor pond I have. A bait store shared how fishermen have learned to keep minnow buckets cool on a hot fishing day and I've used it in my little pond to create a cool spot for the fish. Fishermen fill empty plastic water bottles with water straight from the tap, freeze them and use them to keep the beer cold on the way to their favorite fishing hole. Then they pull a frozen water bottle out and float it in the minnow bucket -- changing off to a fresh one every now and then. If all the frozen water bottles thaw -- they might even throw a cold beer to the minnows. Anyone for a Bud lite? .... grin

It's cute to see how the goldfish in my pond gather around the frozen water bottle and the platies are happy as clams in the heat.


Nedra ("Ned"), Annie , Australian Cattle Dog X and Grip, Jack Russell Terrier.




---------------------------------
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23454 From: Blue fish Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Marine animal news
Latest Blog News
-----------------------------------------------

View this email online:
http://www.zookoda.com/go/?474C43465752424C425A445146445A515F4F

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23455 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: I've got a question
Are Thai Algae Shark the same as the Algae Eater? Also do they suck the leaves of swords that the leaves wilt and die? I have hair algae on the leaves of the sword plants and when I got the Thai, the next day the leaves looked like they sucked on it or a snail sucked it. I have a few snail but the leaves only became like that when the Thais were introduced. The leaves wilted and died but there are some shoots coming out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23456 From: Pixiey Date: 8/4/2007
Subject: New here & after information about tetra's
Hi!

I haven't had fish in about 10years and am looking to set up a fish
tank of tetra's or guppies; I have kept them before but always bought
through pet shops.

I want the tank as a display tank although I do find the urge to breed
rather strong I feel it would be best if i got my foot in the door
with something small.

I don't want to just go to a store and buy myself what the shop vendor
suggests, I want to do the best by my fish when i do eventually get
them so if there is anyone on here who would be interested in advising
me if would be awesome!

So far I only have the tank (4 in fact but I'm only going to use the one)

Regards

Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23457 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's
A lot has changed in the past 10 years. Below is a blog I put together for
newbies so you can read through it and the links to get back up to speed on
things. The biggest thing you can do is "Fishless Cycle" your tank to
better prepare the ecology of the tank prior to putting fish in the tank.
This process uses plain ammonia to feed the nitrifying bacteria that eat the
ammonia and nitrites and takes two to six weeks to complete the process.
You can start the "Fishless Cycle" now while you do more reading and
research on what you want for your tank.

Here's the link...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml If it wraps or breaks, go to my main blog in my sig and on the right
side, you will see the link to "A to Z of Fish Keeping".

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Pixiey
Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2007 11:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New here & after information about tetra's

Hi!

I haven't had fish in about 10years and am looking to set up a fish tank of
tetra's or guppies; I have kept them before but always bought through pet
shops.

I want the tank as a display tank although I do find the urge to breed
rather strong I feel it would be best if i got my foot in the door with
something small.

I don't want to just go to a store and buy myself what the shop vendor
suggests, I want to do the best by my fish when i do eventually get them so
if there is anyone on here who would be interested in advising me if would
be awesome!

So far I only have the tank (4 in fact but I'm only going to use the one)

Regards

Kate



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.4/936 - Release Date: 8/4/2007
2:42 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23458 From: harry perry Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's/Kate
I would try Lenny's advice. The only thing I would do differently is use Bio Spira for fresh water, to cycle the tank. It takes days not weeks. I just used it to set up a tank for my daughter, it worked well.

Harry

Pixiey <pixiey_moon@...> wrote: Hi!

I haven't had fish in about 10years and am looking to set up a fish
tank of tetra's or guppies; I have kept them before but always bought
through pet shops.

I want the tank as a display tank although I do find the urge to breed
rather strong I feel it would be best if i got my foot in the door
with something small.

I don't want to just go to a store and buy myself what the shop vendor
suggests, I want to do the best by my fish when i do eventually get
them so if there is anyone on here who would be interested in advising
me if would be awesome!

So far I only have the tank (4 in fact but I'm only going to use the one)

Regards

Kate






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23459 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: New here & after information about tetra's/Kate
Harry,

The OP's email address show them to be in Australia and I don't think
Bio-Spira is available down under. I believe my "A to Z..." page mentions
Bio-Spira anyhow but it's not available in most places outside the USA.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of harry perry
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 11:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New here & after information about tetra's/Kate

I would try Lenny's advice. The only thing I would do differently is use Bio
Spira for fresh water, to cycle the tank. It takes days not weeks. I just
used it to set up a tank for my daughter, it worked well.

Harry

Pixiey <pixiey_moon@... <mailto:pixiey_moon%40yahoo.com.au> >
wrote: Hi!

I haven't had fish in about 10years and am looking to set up a fish tank of
tetra's or guppies; I have kept them before but always bought through pet
shops.

I want the tank as a display tank although I do find the urge to breed
rather strong I feel it would be best if i got my foot in the door with
something small.

I don't want to just go to a store and buy myself what the shop vendor
suggests, I want to do the best by my fish when i do eventually get them so
if there is anyone on here who would be interested in advising me if would
be awesome!

So far I only have the tank (4 in fact but I'm only going to use the one)

Regards

Kate



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.4/936 - Release Date: 8/4/2007
2:42 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23460 From: peakholee Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon
fish tank stand on the web free.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23461 From: harry perry Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand./Try this
http://www.thekrib.com/TankHardware/stands.html

peakholee <peakholee@...> wrote: Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon
fish tank stand on the web free.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23462 From: Pickles Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
I did a google search on Build an aquarium and came up with lots of sites...Mary
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=Uo7&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+build+an+aquarium&spell=1


----- Original Message -----
From: "peakholee" <peakholee@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.


Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon
fish tank stand on the web free.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23463 From: Pickles Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
DUH!! I didnt see the owrkd STAND! sorry...but then again that other link can be
usefull alos..heres some about DIY stands...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=fYo&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+build+an+aquarium+stand&spell=1

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diystandscabinets/DIY_Cabinet_Stand_Plans.htm

sorry!!! ...Mary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.



I did a google search on Build an aquarium and came up with lots of sites...Mary
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=Uo7&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+build+an+aquarium&spell=1


----- Original Message -----
From: "peakholee" <peakholee@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.


Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon
fish tank stand on the web free.






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
Here is my blog with pictures
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/my-diy-2000-big-tank-stand.html on the
stand I built for my 65G and I know it's much stronger than what was needed.
Materials only cost me around $20.00 for the stand framing. I was
interrupted by Katrina in 2005 so I never did finish the exterior but this
frame can be finished in your choice of finishes. If the link wraps or
breaks, go to my main blog and look on the right side under labels for DIY
Tank Stand.

Here is another page of several DIY plans...
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_list.php

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of peakholee
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.

Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon fish
tank stand on the web free.



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.4/936 - Release Date: 8/4/2007
2:42 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23465 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Just started my tank cycling...
I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now that
things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?

Thanks for any advice-
Noah
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23466 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Hi Noah,

I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as I
can tell.
I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a time
they had
babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to harm a
snail and I have
seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff off the
sides of the tank- I think
they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my brush. Let
them be- they are harmless.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
(630) 616-0932 Office

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now that
> things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
> may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
> that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
> wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
> gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
> tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
>
> Thanks for any advice-
> Noah
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23467 From: cara Date: 8/5/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Noah,

If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they will
multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I had a
really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.


Cara







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
that
> things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
> may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
> that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
> wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
> gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
> tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
>
> Thanks for any advice-
> Noah
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23468 From: Todd Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: how to keep a brackish water tank?
How much salt are you supposed to add per gallon? How hard are they to
maintain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23469 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size
of the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be gone
before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my plants
are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am asking
advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to
swing the balance. :D



> Noah,
>
> If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
will
> multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
had a
> really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
>
>
> Cara
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
> that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23470 From: cara curry Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the plants.

Cara

Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
Hi Noah,

I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as I
can tell.
I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a time
they had
babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to harm a
snail and I have
seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff off the
sides of the tank- I think
they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my brush. Let
them be- they are harmless.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
(630) 616-0932 Office

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now that
> things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
> may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
> that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
> wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
> gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
> tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
>
> Thanks for any advice-
> Noah
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23471 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
That's what I was thinking too, Cara. Thank you for the heads up and
the loach advice. (By the way, are loaches hard to keep?)
>
> Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the
plants.
>
> Cara
>
> Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
> Hi Noah,
>
> I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as
I
> can tell.
> I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a
time
> they had
> babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to
harm a
> snail and I have
> seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff
off the
> sides of the tank- I think
> they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my
brush. Let
> them be- they are harmless.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
> (708)334-2260
> (630) 616-0932 Office
>
> Noah Burge wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23472 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
That is not necessarily true…they will eat some, but not all. I have a
planted tank with snails…most of them came with the plants. Sometimes I
have to add more when the loaches go on a snail binge hehehe



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cara curry
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Just started my tank cycling...



Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the plants.

Cara

Sam Palermo <skywavebe@... <mailto:skywavebe%40sbcglobal.net> >
wrote:
Hi Noah,

I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as I
can tell.
I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a time
they had
babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to harm a
snail and I have
seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff off the
sides of the tank- I think
they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my brush. Let
them be- they are harmless.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
(630) 616-0932 Office

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now that
> things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
> may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
> that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
> wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
> gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
> tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
>
> Thanks for any advice-
> Noah
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23473 From: cara curry Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Noah,

Loaches are very easy to keep, however, your tank has to be completely cycled before getting one. They do not do well if transfering into a new tank that is not completely cycled.

Cara

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
That's what I was thinking too, Cara. Thank you for the heads up and
the loach advice. (By the way, are loaches hard to keep?)
>
> Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the
plants.
>
> Cara
>
> Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
> Hi Noah,
>
> I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as
I
> can tell.
> I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a
time
> they had
> babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to
harm a
> snail and I have
> seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff
off the
> sides of the tank- I think
> they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my
brush. Let
> them be- they are harmless.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
> (708)334-2260
> (630) 616-0932 Office
>
> Noah Burge wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23474 From: Eugene Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.
YOU WERE A GREEEEAAAAAATTTTT!!!!!!!! HELP AND i CANT THANK YOU ENOUGH. Sincearly Gino

Pickles <pickles97355@...> wrote:
DUH!! I didnt see the owrkd STAND! sorry...but then again that other link can be
usefull alos..heres some about DIY stands...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=fYo&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+build+an+aquarium+stand&spell=1

http://saltaquarium.about.com/od/diystandscabinets/DIY_Cabinet_Stand_Plans.htm

sorry!!! ...Mary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pickles" <pickles97355@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.

I did a google search on Build an aquarium and came up with lots of sites...Mary
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=Uo7&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+build+an+aquarium&spell=1

----- Original Message -----
From: "peakholee" <peakholee@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 12:22 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] wanted infomation :how to buld a 130 fish tank stand.

Is there anywhere I can get information on how to build a 130 gallon
fish tank stand on the web free.

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply
& if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new
subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23475 From: Debra Melton Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Hi Noah,

I have small snails in my tank - they came on a plant I purchased on ebay.
As far as I can tell my fish are keeping them in check, I haven't even seen
egg trails on the glass. I also have an order of Malasian trumpet snails on
the way for my planted tank in which I keep Neons, Tiger Barbs, and Emerald
catfish in.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23476 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
I don't mind snails but I do occasional population control by manually
removing them as they get big enough to easily grab with my little plastic
grabber thingy (yes, that's the official name of it... lol). It was a
little $5.00 aquarium tool used for grabbing things without having to stick
my hands in the water as often. I use it for minor redecoration and plant
moving also.

The snails will usually only multiply out of control when there is excess
fish food for them. As long as the available food supply is limited, the
snail population will usually be limited also. I have MTS and pond snails
in my Cherry Shrimp tank which is heavily planted with three different fast
growing plants so I haven't seen them cause any damage to the plant growth.
I move the larger MTS into my goldfish tank to help with eating any algae
that starts to get out of hand.

What size tank do you have and what kinds of plants and fish are you
planning?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 11:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size of the
first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't neccessary.
'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I posted...will they multiply
so fast that my plants will all be gone before I can even start removing
them by hand? As long as my plants are intact, I see no reason to kill them,
but that's why I am asking advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they
will be a problem...one says no problem. So I need at least one more reply
to swing the balance. :D

> Noah,
>
> If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
will
> multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
had a
> really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
>
>
> Cara
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
> that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007
4:16 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23477 From: adrian lara Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Hey I would just like to know why my betta fish has a bum on his belly?

----- Original Message ----
From: Eric Roberts <woad@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 6, 2007 5:42:48 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Just started my tank cycling...

That is not necessarily true�they will eat some, but not all. I have a
planted tank with snails�most of them came with the plants. Sometimes I
have to add more when the loaches go on a snail binge hehehe

Eric

From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of cara curry
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Just started my tank cycling...

Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the plants.

Cara

Sam Palermo <skywavebe@sbcglobal .net <mailto:skywavebe% 40sbcglobal. net> >
wrote:
Hi Noah,

I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as I
can tell.
I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a time
they had
babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to harm a
snail and I have
seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff off the
sides of the tank- I think
they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my brush. Let
them be- they are harmless.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
(630) 616-0932 Office

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now that
> things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank. Now, I
> may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I know
> that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all right to
> wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one, they're
> gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am I
> tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
>
> Thanks for any advice-
> Noah
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- ---
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





____________________________________________________________________________________
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23478 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
The most common loach in pet stores that people get for snail control is the
clown loach,
http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus,
which actually gets much too large for most peoples aquariums but the pet
stores don't usually tell people this need-to-know information. They grow
to 16" and should be kept in shoals of five or more and the minimum sized
aquarium for a clown loach should be around 75G... and that's the bare
minimum. Not all loaches eat snails. If the snails become a nuisance,
there are other ways to remove the snails such as DIY snail traps, manual
removal, etc.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

That's what I was thinking too, Cara. Thank you for the heads up and the
loach advice. (By the way, are loaches hard to keep?)
>
> Yea, but if you have plants in your tank, the snails will kill the
plants.
>
> Cara
>
> Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
> Hi Noah,
>
> I had a tank with snails in it and they are most harmless as far as
I
> can tell.
> I must have put 15 of them in there from the creek and then after a
time
> they had
> babies which were col to watch grow. I can not see any reason to
harm a
> snail and I have
> seen that they are beneficial to the tank because they eat stuff
off the
> sides of the tank- I think
> they cleaned off the algae that would have to be taken off my
brush. Let
> them be- they are harmless.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
> Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago (708)334-2260
> (630) 616-0932 Office
>
> Noah Burge wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007
4:16 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23479 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: how to keep a brackish water tank?
The amount of salt does not really matter that much, as most brackish
fish do better when the salinity varies. You do need a hydrometer so you
can measure the salinity to keep it within the limits of brackish water,
which, while there is an official definition, is pretty much anything
that is not freshwater or marine water.

You might want to take a look around for a book called _Brackish
Aquariums_ by Michael W. Gos. There may be another one or two books out
there as well, but I am not familiar with them. Most of the general
aquarium books will have a few paragraphs or chapter on brackish water
tanks, but not much.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Todd
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 11:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how to keep a brackish water tank?

How much salt are you supposed to add per gallon? How hard are they to
maintain?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23480 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them. In a
well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with the
fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to see
more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many fish will
enjoy the snack.

Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not worry too
much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in the
leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.

Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel dwelling
snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are used
to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas from
being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an earthworm
in their use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size
of the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be gone
before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my plants
are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am asking
advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to
swing the balance. :D



> Noah,
>
> If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
will
> multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
had a
> really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
>
>
> Cara
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
> that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23481 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Thank you all! I believe I have a broad enough perspective on this
now. I put in two starter guppies today; both snails and both fish
seem to be happy enough. All of them are cruising all over the tank.
I will continue to monitor water conditions for the next week or so
before I get a couple of catfish. :)


> Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them.
In a
> well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with the
> fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to see
> more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
> Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many fish
will
> enjoy the snack.
>
> Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not
worry too
> much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in
the
> leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.
>
> Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel dwelling
> snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are
used
> to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas
from
> being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an
earthworm
> in their use.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
>
> Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size
> of the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
> destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
> neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
> posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be gone
> before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my
plants
> are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am
asking
> advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
> problem...one says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to
> swing the balance. :D
>
>
>
> > Noah,
> >
> > If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
> will
> > multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
> had a
> > really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
> >
> >
> > Cara
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store.
Now
> > that
> > > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
> Now, I
> > > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
> know
> > > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
> right to
> > > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
> they're
> > > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one?
Am
> I
> > > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any advice-
> > > Noah
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23482 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Erm, not sure. If it's an actual 'bum' (I assume you mean arse) then
the store you got him from ripped you off, or maybe he gored himself
on something...any sharp points or edges in your tank?

> Hey I would just like to know why my betta fish has a bum on his
belly?
>

> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ---
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?
fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23483 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Erm, not sure. If it's an actual 'bum' (I assume you mean arse) then
the store you got him from ripped you off, or maybe he gored himself
on something...any sharp points or edges in your tank?

> Hey I would just like to know why my betta fish has a bum on his
belly?
>

> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------ --------- --------- ---
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?
fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23484 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
You should read up on Cycling With Fish
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html since it
appears you have chosen this route. You do not want to add any more fish to
your tank until it has completed the nitrogen cycle. Then you can add a
couple more fish and wait for the tank to cycle with the higher bioload.
Keep doing this every 4-6 weeks until you have your tank properly stocked.

It would have been much better to "Fishless Cycle" or use Bio-Spira or
cloned an existing tank so that you and your fish do not have to suffer
through the cycling process. With a fishless cycle, after the 2-4 week
process, your tank would be ready for a nearly full bioload of fish...
instead of introducing a few at a time.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 8:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

Thank you all! I believe I have a broad enough perspective on this now. I
put in two starter guppies today; both snails and both fish seem to be happy
enough. All of them are cruising all over the tank.
I will continue to monitor water conditions for the next week or so before I
get a couple of catfish. :)

> Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them.
In a
> well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with the
> fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to see
> more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
> Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many fish
will
> enjoy the snack.
>
> Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not
worry too
> much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in
the
> leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.
>
> Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel dwelling
> snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are
used
> to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas
from
> being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an
earthworm
> in their use.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
>
> Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size of
> the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
> destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
> neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
> posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be gone
> before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my
plants
> are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am
asking
> advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a problem...one
> says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to swing the
> balance. :D
>
>
>
> > Noah,
> >
> > If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
> will
> > multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
> had a
> > really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
> >
> >
> > Cara
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store.
Now
> > that
> > > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
> Now, I
> > > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
> know
> > > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
> right to
> > > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
> they're
> > > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one?
Am
> I
> > > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> > >
> > > Thanks for any advice-
> > > Noah
> > >
> >
>



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date: 8/5/2007
4:16 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23485 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/6/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
This is NOT the route I have chosen. I've read up all about cycles
and everything else to do with freshwater fish quite extensively,
thank you. Just becausde you don't agree with what I did doesn't mean
I went into this without knowing anything about it. I studied for
weeks before I even bought the tank. I didn't feel like waiting any
longer to see fish in my tank. My fish are doing fine so far. If they
die, I'll shut up. But in the meantime, I don't think you know what
my fish are feeling. Sorry, I don't like know it alls telling me I'm
doing it wrong. Is it not true than one of THE best ways to start
your nitrogen cycle is to add a starter fish or two? Who needs
cycling chemicals? Nature does everything fine.

*sigh* I suppose I've completely alienated myself now...



> You should read up on Cycling With Fish
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html
since it
> appears you have chosen this route. You do not want to add any
more fish to
> your tank until it has completed the nitrogen cycle. Then you can
add a
> couple more fish and wait for the tank to cycle with the higher
bioload.
> Keep doing this every 4-6 weeks until you have your tank properly
stocked.
>
> It would have been much better to "Fishless Cycle" or use Bio-Spira
or
> cloned an existing tank so that you and your fish do not have to
suffer
> through the cycling process. With a fishless cycle, after the 2-4
week
> process, your tank would be ready for a nearly full bioload of
fish...
> instead of introducing a few at a time.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 8:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
>
> Thank you all! I believe I have a broad enough perspective on this
now. I
> put in two starter guppies today; both snails and both fish seem to
be happy
> enough. All of them are cruising all over the tank.
> I will continue to monitor water conditions for the next week or so
before I
> get a couple of catfish. :)
>
> > Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them.
> In a
> > well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with
the
> > fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to
see
> > more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
> > Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many
fish
> will
> > enjoy the snack.
> >
> > Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not
> worry too
> > much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in
> the
> > leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.
> >
> > Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel
dwelling
> > snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are
> used
> > to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas
> from
> > being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an
> earthworm
> > in their use.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
> >
> > Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the
size of
> > the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
> > destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
> > neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
> > posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be
gone
> > before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my
> plants
> > are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am
> asking
> > advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one
> > says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to swing the
> > balance. :D
> >
> >
> >
> > > Noah,
> > >
> > > If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me,
they
> > will
> > > multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
> > had a
> > > really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cara
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Noah Burge"
<noahburge2b@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store.
> Now
> > > that
> > > > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the
tank.
> > Now, I
> > > > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
> > know
> > > > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
> > right to
> > > > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
> > they're
> > > > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the
one?
> Am
> > I
> > > > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any advice-
> > > > Noah
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date:
8/5/2007
> 4:16 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23486 From: Paula Brown Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Snails/Loaches
I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank at home. I have tons of bamboo
plants in there and about a year ago bought a few sword plants to place
in there. Evidently the sword plants brought along a hitchhiker or two
- snails. They are pretty small but have definitely reproduced. I
would say I have around 40 of them now. About the size of your
fingernail. I cannot say that they have harmed my plants big time.
Some nibbling here and there but no real destruction. They just mostly
hang out on the sides of the aquarium.

I am thinking of looking for a small loach to take care of the problem
though. I don't believe that loaches are aggressive to other friendly
fish are they?

Paula in Monroe, Michigan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23487 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
I feel like a jerk now. My fish are fine, but I apparently have some
social issues. I hope everyone can see past my tirade, I realize this
was constructive critisism. Er, sorry Lenny. I shouldn't have come
here if I didn't want good instructions. I hope you can forgive me,
honestly I am not usually a loose cannon like that. :(


> This is NOT the route I have chosen. I've read up all about cycles
> and everything else to do with freshwater fish quite extensively,
> thank you. Just becausde you don't agree with what I did doesn't
mean
> I went into this without knowing anything about it. I studied for
> weeks before I even bought the tank. I didn't feel like waiting any
> longer to see fish in my tank. My fish are doing fine so far. If
they
> die, I'll shut up. But in the meantime, I don't think you know what
> my fish are feeling. Sorry, I don't like know it alls telling me
I'm
> doing it wrong. Is it not true than one of THE best ways to start
> your nitrogen cycle is to add a starter fish or two? Who needs
> cycling chemicals? Nature does everything fine.
>
> *sigh* I suppose I've completely alienated myself now...
>
>
>
> > You should read up on Cycling With Fish
> > http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html
> since it
> > appears you have chosen this route. You do not want to add any
> more fish to
> > your tank until it has completed the nitrogen cycle. Then you
can
> add a
> > couple more fish and wait for the tank to cycle with the higher
> bioload.
> > Keep doing this every 4-6 weeks until you have your tank properly
> stocked.
> >
> > It would have been much better to "Fishless Cycle" or use Bio-
Spira
> or
> > cloned an existing tank so that you and your fish do not have to
> suffer
> > through the cycling process. With a fishless cycle, after the 2-
4
> week
> > process, your tank would be ready for a nearly full bioload of
> fish...
> > instead of introducing a few at a time.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23488 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Noah said: "Is it not true than one of THE best ways to start your nitrogen
cycle is to add a starter fish or two?"

I am NOT answering this for you as you have made your choice but there are
thousands of other people on this list and potentially thousands more who
may just read this online when surfing the net. Don't take it personally.
When you ask a group of several thousand people for advice and then you
don't like or take the advice, that's your problem, not mine.

Now to answer your question for other people who may read this....

NO, using fish is not the best way to start the nitrogen cycle.

The best way is by using a product like Bio-Spira which is the actual live
nitrifying bacteria and allows you to add your fish safely the next day...
or you can fishless cycle using plain ammonia which takes 2-6 weeks. You
can also speed up the fishless cycle process by using some filter media from
a healthy fully cycled aquarium.

By using fish to start your nitrogen cycle, you are unnecessarily exposing
them to elevated and possible dangerous/deadly levels of ammonia/nitrites.
They may not die but they certainly will be adversely affected by this
exposure which can cause injury to the gills and other internal and external
organs and potentially cause them other health problems for the years to
come.

Years ago, before we knew about fishless cycling and before we had access to
products like Bio-Spira, then one of our only options was to cycle with fish
but now that we know better, we should choose the option that is best for
our fish... not what is most convenient to us.

I hope you've read the link that I suggested in an earlier email so you will
at least be doing the daily testing for ammonia and nitrites and doing 25%
PWC's as needed to keep the levels safe for your fish. Depending on your pH
and water temperature, you should not let your ammonia levels get over
0.5ppm to be safe and the same for your nitrite levels although you can add
a pinch of salt to your water which will help protect the fish from nitrite
poisoning and the effects of elevated nitrite on the gill tissue.

Good luck.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 11:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

This is NOT the route I have chosen. I've read up all about cycles and
everything else to do with freshwater fish quite extensively, thank you.
Just becausde you don't agree with what I did doesn't mean I went into this
without knowing anything about it. I studied for weeks before I even bought
the tank. I didn't feel like waiting any longer to see fish in my tank. My
fish are doing fine so far. If they die, I'll shut up. But in the meantime,
I don't think you know what my fish are feeling. Sorry, I don't like know it
alls telling me I'm doing it wrong. Is it not true than one of THE best ways
to start your nitrogen cycle is to add a starter fish or two? Who needs
cycling chemicals? Nature does everything fine.

*sigh* I suppose I've completely alienated myself now...

> You should read up on Cycling With Fish
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html
> <http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html>
since it
> appears you have chosen this route. You do not want to add any
more fish to
> your tank until it has completed the nitrogen cycle. Then you can
add a
> couple more fish and wait for the tank to cycle with the higher
bioload.
> Keep doing this every 4-6 weeks until you have your tank properly
stocked.
>
> It would have been much better to "Fishless Cycle" or use Bio-Spira
or
> cloned an existing tank so that you and your fish do not have to
suffer
> through the cycling process. With a fishless cycle, after the 2-4
week
> process, your tank would be ready for a nearly full bioload of
fish...
> instead of introducing a few at a time.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 8:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
>
> Thank you all! I believe I have a broad enough perspective on this
now. I
> put in two starter guppies today; both snails and both fish seem to
be happy
> enough. All of them are cruising all over the tank.
> I will continue to monitor water conditions for the next week or so
before I
> get a couple of catfish. :)
>
> > Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them.
> In a
> > well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with
the
> > fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to
see
> > more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
> > Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many
fish
> will
> > enjoy the snack.
> >
> > Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not
> worry too
> > much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in
> the
> > leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.
> >
> > Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel
dwelling
> > snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are
> used
> > to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas
> from
> > being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an
> earthworm
> > in their use.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
> >
> > Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the
size of
> > the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
> > destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
> > neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
> > posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be
gone
> > before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my
> plants
> > are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am
> asking
> > advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one
> > says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to swing the
> > balance. :D
> >
> >
> >
> > > Noah,
> > >
> > > If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me,
they
> > will
> > > multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
> > had a
> > > really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cara
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Noah Burge"
<noahburge2b@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store.
> Now
> > > that
> > > > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the
tank.
> > Now, I
> > > > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
> > know
> > > > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
> > right to
> > > > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
> > they're
> > > > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the
one?
> Am
> > I
> > > > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any advice-
> > > > Noah
> > > >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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4:16 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23489 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
I did take it personally Lenny. My bad. I apologize to Lenny and the
group as a whole. And thanks for answering my question anyway. :P
>
> Noah said: "Is it not true than one of THE best ways to start your
nitrogen
> cycle is to add a starter fish or two?"
>
> I am NOT answering this for you as you have made your choice but
there are
> thousands of other people on this list and potentially thousands
more who
> may just read this online when surfing the net. Don't take it
personally.
> When you ask a group of several thousand people for advice and then
you
> don't like or take the advice, that's your problem, not mine.
>
> Now to answer your question for other people who may read this....
>
> NO, using fish is not the best way to start the nitrogen cycle.
>
> The best way is by using a product like Bio-Spira which is the
actual live
> nitrifying bacteria and allows you to add your fish safely the next
day...
> or you can fishless cycle using plain ammonia which takes 2-6
weeks. You
> can also speed up the fishless cycle process by using some filter
media from
> a healthy fully cycled aquarium.
>
> By using fish to start your nitrogen cycle, you are unnecessarily
exposing
> them to elevated and possible dangerous/deadly levels of
ammonia/nitrites.
> They may not die but they certainly will be adversely affected by
this
> exposure which can cause injury to the gills and other internal and
external
> organs and potentially cause them other health problems for the
years to
> come.
>
> Years ago, before we knew about fishless cycling and before we had
access to
> products like Bio-Spira, then one of our only options was to cycle
with fish
> but now that we know better, we should choose the option that is
best for
> our fish... not what is most convenient to us.
>
> I hope you've read the link that I suggested in an earlier email so
you will
> at least be doing the daily testing for ammonia and nitrites and
doing 25%
> PWC's as needed to keep the levels safe for your fish. Depending
on your pH
> and water temperature, you should not let your ammonia levels get
over
> 0.5ppm to be safe and the same for your nitrite levels although you
can add
> a pinch of salt to your water which will help protect the fish from
nitrite
> poisoning and the effects of elevated nitrite on the gill tissue.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23490 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: bettas
Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully together
in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to know
if it was possible. Thanks Pearly
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23491 From: harry perry Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas/Pearly
There are approx. 65 different kinds of bettas. Betta splendens is the one everyone sees in there lfs. The fighting betta. Google IBC, the International Betta Conference. There are quite a few Bettas that don't try to kill each other. Betta Imbellis comes to mind. The peaceful Betta.

If your tank is well planted with lots of hiding places it could work.

Harry

friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...> wrote: Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully together
in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to know
if it was possible. Thanks Pearly






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23492 From: Sam Palermo Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
Hi Noah,

I can see your point with the fish. I did the same thing with my pond that I have had to recently clean out and start again. It turns out the starter fish that were feeders not only lasted 9 years and have grown to some 4 or 5 pounders but they also at some point replicated to the extent that the medium sized pond had better than 250 fish in it. I am told that having about 170 fish is still too many but I am watching the chemistry very carefully and applying needed resolutions if I see Ammonia come up at all. I will still take some fish out if I see a place to put them as in a well maintained pond in the area- not a natural pond.
Give the snails a break- I have never seen them devour a plant or cause it to die.
Maybe the plants that you are putting in with the snails is a type of snail food.
A fresh water tank should stabilize itself in a couple of weeks. but it is good to start the biological cycle with a Bio boost solution- why take chances? The fish you put in there only has one.

Sam

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: This is NOT the route I have chosen. I've read up all about cycles
and everything else to do with freshwater fish quite extensively,
thank you. Just becausde you don't agree with what I did doesn't mean
I went into this without knowing anything about it. I studied for
weeks before I even bought the tank. I didn't feel like waiting any
longer to see fish in my tank. My fish are doing fine so far. If they
die, I'll shut up. But in the meantime, I don't think you know what
my fish are feeling. Sorry, I don't like know it alls telling me I'm
doing it wrong. Is it not true than one of THE best ways to start
your nitrogen cycle is to add a starter fish or two? Who needs
cycling chemicals? Nature does everything fine.

*sigh* I suppose I've completely alienated myself now...

> You should read up on Cycling With Fish
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html
since it
> appears you have chosen this route. You do not want to add any
more fish to
> your tank until it has completed the nitrogen cycle. Then you can
add a
> couple more fish and wait for the tank to cycle with the higher
bioload.
> Keep doing this every 4-6 weeks until you have your tank properly
stocked.
>
> It would have been much better to "Fishless Cycle" or use Bio-Spira
or
> cloned an existing tank so that you and your fish do not have to
suffer
> through the cycling process. With a fishless cycle, after the 2-4
week
> process, your tank would be ready for a nearly full bioload of
fish...
> instead of introducing a few at a time.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 8:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
>
> Thank you all! I believe I have a broad enough perspective on this
now. I
> put in two starter guppies today; both snails and both fish seem to
be happy
> enough. All of them are cruising all over the tank.
> I will continue to monitor water conditions for the next week or so
before I
> get a couple of catfish. :)
>
> > Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them.
> In a
> > well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with
the
> > fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to
see
> > more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
> > Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many
fish
> will
> > enjoy the snack.
> >
> > Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not
> worry too
> > much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in
> the
> > leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.
> >
> > Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel
dwelling
> > snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are
> used
> > to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas
> from
> > being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an
> earthworm
> > in their use.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...
> >
> > Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the
size of
> > the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
> > destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
> > neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
> > posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be
gone
> > before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my
> plants
> > are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am
> asking
> > advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one
> > says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to swing the
> > balance. :D
> >
> >
> >
> > > Noah,
> > >
> > > If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me,
they
> > will
> > > multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
> > had a
> > > really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cara
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Noah Burge"
<noahburge2b@>
> > > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store.
> Now
> > > that
> > > > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the
tank.
> > Now, I
> > > > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
> > know
> > > > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
> > right to
> > > > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
> > they're
> > > > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the
one?
> Am
> > I
> > > > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any advice-
> > > > Noah
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.6/938 - Release Date:
8/5/2007
> 4:16 PM
>






Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23493 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
I have a male and 2 female bettas in a heavily planted tank with no major
problems. I have a lot of floating plants in there as well.

joey



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23494 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
It depends on the personality of the betta. You may find it is fine
with the females of it's own species, but gets upset by the Angels.
Typically they say any fish that is laterally compressed, about the
same size, and brightly coloured will be seen as a threat by the male
betta. I tried putting my betta pal who was alone in a 5 gallon in
with my tropicals and he was very upset by my gouramis and was
constantly puffed up and stressed. He is much happier alone.

I'm actually surprised you're putting angels in with much smaller fish,
as I have heard that angels will eat smaller fish if given the
opportunity.

Kelly




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully
together
> in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
> guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
> well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to
know
> if it was possible. Thanks Pearly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23495 From: Cory Walter Date: 8/7/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
I have a male betta with 2 angels, 2 red platties and 2 cory cats and they all get along great......but the male betta is a very, very docile betta. I also have another betta who couldn't live with anything but himself.......

Cory S. Walter

Have a wonderful, blessed day!



----- Original Message ----
From: friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2007 3:34:02 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] bettas

Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully together
in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to know
if it was possible. Thanks Pearly






____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23496 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
From my experience with bettas, I use to have 1 male and 3 females or more
in a 15 galloon tank with guppies and Mollies. They did well until mom got
tired of the bettas and changed to goldies (gold fishes). I also had
successfully breed bettas. I don't have any now but you can have 1 male and
at least 3 female with lots of hiding places cause if a female isn't ready
for mating and you put them with a male you will end up with a dead betta or
both. If you have 3 or more the other female will distract the male and the
female will only suffer a bite or so. In a 55 gal, I think it will be
possible but you have to have lots of hiding places. I also had angels
before and they tend to be aggressive to other fish and their own kind. I
haven't had a betta with angels so I don't know if they can live together.

-------Original Message-------

From: Cory Walter
Date: 8/7/2007 11:36:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] bettas

I have a male betta with 2 angels, 2 red platties and 2 cory cats and they
all get along great......but the male betta is a very, very docile betta. I
also have another betta who couldn't live with anything but himself.......

Cory S. Walter

Have a wonderful, blessed day!



----- Original Message ----
From: friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2007 3:34:02 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] bettas

Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully together
in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to know
if it was possible. Thanks Pearly






_____________________________________________________________________________
______
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo!
FareChase.
http://farechase.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23497 From: Julie Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: reef keeper??
I am looking for the site reef keeper, is the name of it...I think I
have seen it recommeded at the group..do any of you know it?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23498 From: Ronny Immekus Date: 8/8/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
All is forgiven Noah. Lenny has provided a lot of very
good info here as well as a fantastic website.

That is what I like so much about this group, seeing
how everyone handles things. I think we have all been
in a situation where something we have done for years
all of a sudden quits/doesn't work.

I may not have agreed with a specific method when I
read it at first but, when something fails we all need
a back up plan or a new approach.

Thanks to everyone sharing their ideas!

Ron




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23499 From: Jessica Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
I have a crown-tail betta, and from my research they are the more
aggressive of the bettas. I currently have him in a 20gal with guppies
and two clown loaches. They all were in a 10gal to begin with though.
It depends on the betta and the other fish. My betta attacked the
guppies with my first attempt at intergaration and ate one whole! He's
fine now though and they all get along.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
<pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully
together
> in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
> guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
> well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to
know
> if it was possible. Thanks Pearly
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23500 From: Kate Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Help needed on a planted tank
I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
can see a lot in the photos.

Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23501 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Snails/Loaches
My (limited) experience of snails shows that while they can strip
plants down, many of them prefer algae, left-over fish food, or dead
fish. You probably don't want to think about this last one, but it can
prove useful - a mass of snails may indicate that one of your fish has
died, and this also helps reduce contamination from decaying fish.
I keep Japanese loaches and find that they eat snail egg jelly and
smaller snails, and seem to injure and kill larger snails. Some types
of loaches may nibble on the fins of other fish, and at least one
variety I know of feeds on small shrimp, but other than that they are
excllent tank mates. They will disturb some of your plants, however.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23502 From: detbaskball Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any suggestions...please I
need some help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23503 From: William Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Glow light danios are a patented fish and therefor it is illegal for
any one to breed them except for the owner of the patient.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "detbaskball" <detbaskball@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any
suggestions...please I
> need some help.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23504 From: Vitae Date: 8/9/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
.....who knew. Well, if you can get them to breed you can't really STOP them from doing whats natural huh?
I think that only figures into if the person wants to breed them to sell them, but IDK!!

-Y

----- Original Message -----
From: William
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:40 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!


Glow light danios are a patented fish and therefor it is illegal for
any one to breed them except for the owner of the patient.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "detbaskball" <detbaskball@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any
suggestions...please I
> need some help.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23505 From: barbie4527 Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my
tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must
not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add
either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read
it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in
there. Thanks, Barbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23506 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
The Glowlight Danio
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=
129 is not the same fish as the GloFish (TM) Zebra Danio
http://www.glofish.com/ which is the patented genetically altered fish.

Glowlight Danio's should be easy to breed. Just make sure you have two
females for every male so the males do not harass the females to much during
the mating process.

These links both have info on breeding but you can Google "Breeding
Glowlight Danios" for lots more info.
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fresh/cyprinids/GlowlightDanio.php
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk/pfk/pages/show_article.php?article_id=
334

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!

Glow light danios are a patented fish and therefor it is illegal for any one
to breed them except for the owner of the patient.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"detbaskball" <detbaskball@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any
suggestions...please I
> need some help.
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007
2:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23507 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Just started my tank cycling...
I really like the snails. I have 2 ramshorn snails in my 55 gallon tank
and a gold mystery snail in a 10 gallon tank. The gold one is getting
huge. I also have added small ones to my other tanks in hope that
one or two will survive to help clean. Some are the trumpet snails. I
didn't know about them being gravel dwellers though. Thanks for that
info Steve. I know when I vacuum they swirl around and then go back
down. My friends tank got over run and he brought me in a bunch so
I have put some in each tank. They are interesting to watch and do
help to clean.

On a different note, I have more molly fry now. I have left them in the
55 gallon tank unlike last time when I removed the ones I found. I
just don't have enough tanks for all of them. Of the eight I removed
last time, all have survived and are about 1/2 grown now. They are
pretty dirty fish too. They remind me of mini-goldfish...:) I am feeding
the new fry the liquid diet and hope some of them make it. I have
java moss and other plants for them to hide in.

Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Mon 8/6/2007 7:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...



Snails being a problem or not depends on the person viewing them. In a
well maintained tank, they should be no problem whatsoever, with the
fish and natural selection keeping them in line. If you start to see
more than you would like, tell them to go back into hiding <g>.
Seriously, just crush them against the aquarium glass and many fish will
enjoy the snack.

Unless you have a serious over-population, you really need not worry too
much about your plants. Sure, you will see the occasional hole in the
leaves, but that might also be a fish that caused it.

Someone mentioned Malaysian trumpet snails. They are gravel dwelling
snails, rarely seen once they are introduced to the tank. They are used
to keep the substrate turned and aerated to keep anaerobic areas from
being created. They are king of like an aquatic version of an earthworm
in their use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 06, 2007 12:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just started my tank cycling...

Okay, now there are two snails, but one is not even 1/4 of the size
of the first one. I don't want them to get out of control (i.e.
destroying my plants) but I don't want to kill them if it isn't
neccessary. 'They will multiply very quickly.' That's why I
posted...will they multiply so fast that my plants will all be gone
before I can even start removing them by hand? As long as my plants
are intact, I see no reason to kill them, but that's why I am asking
advice. I have 2 replies so far; one says they will be a
problem...one says no problem. So I need at least one more reply to
swing the balance. :D

> Noah,
>
> If you want to keep snails out of your tank... And trust me, they
will
> multiply very quickly.... Get a loach.... They eat the snails. I
had a
> really bad snail problem and within a month they were gone.
>
>
> Cara
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I put some live plants in today, straight from a local store. Now
> that
> > things have settled a bit, I see there is a snail in the tank.
Now, I
> > may be a weirdo, but I think it is SOO cool to have a snail! I
know
> > that they can wreck plants and fish health though. Is it all
right to
> > wait and see if he is the only one? (If I see more than one,
they're
> > gone.) Or is it just a newbie flight of fancy to want the one? Am
I
> > tempting fate? Should I just get rid of him already?
> >
> > Thanks for any advice-
> > Noah
> >
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23508 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: barbie4527
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!


Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my
tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must
not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add
either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read
it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in
there. Thanks, Barbie






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23509 From: Eric Roberts Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
I would love to see that one in the courts…how do you patent an animal?



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!



Glow light danios are a patented fish and therefor it is illegal for
any one to breed them except for the owner of the patient.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"detbaskball" <detbaskball@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any
suggestions...please I
> need some help.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23510 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Hello, yes I am using the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I havent tapped the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like there should be an easier way. All I seem to do is drip water everywhere and still cant get two readings that are the same. If it says that more salt is neede, what do you do if you have fish in the tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks, Barbie


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:52:10 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!




Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA Aquariums By Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message ----- From: barbie4527 To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10 AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in there. Thanks, Barbie----------------------------------------------------------No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


_________________________________________________________________
See what you�re getting into�before you go there
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23511 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
Once again, the GloFish (TM) Zebra Danios are patented and as long as you
are not breeding them for commercial purposes, I don't think GloFish would
worry... heck, they can't stop the fish from breeding in someone's
aquarium... but if someone was to take their patented genetically enhanced
fish and breed them for commercial purposes, then GloFish might sue and
would most likely win without much problem because they do have a patent
that protects their R & D investment for 10 years or possible even longer.
I'm not a patent attorney.

There are lots of "animals" patented in the bio-medical field... of course,
the "animals" are usually genetically enhanced microbes/genes/etc. of some
sort but there are patents issued for these "inventions". It's the only way
to protect the R & D investments that companies make to develop these new
strains of "things" used for research.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED
HELP!

I would love to see that one in the courts…how do you patent an animal?

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of William
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2007 11:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!

Glow light danios are a patented fish and therefor it is illegal for any one
to breed them except for the owner of the patient.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "detbaskball" <detbaskball@...>
wrote:
>
> Anyone know the best method for doing this? Any
suggestions...please I
> need some help.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007
2:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23512 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Helpful links for pond owners
Here's some links novice and experienced pond owners may find of interest.

Ever wonder what the correct name for your water lily is or if you should divide your plants yet? Here' s a link that answers all your pond plant questions.
http://www.watergardenersinternational.org/
How to repot and divide water lilies and lotus.
http://ciwga.org/photos/divisions/homepage.htm
<a href="http://ciwga.org/"><IMG SRC="/members/1566246/uploaded/wgi_member1_water_garden_international.jpg"border=0><a>
How do I know how much pond chemical to use? This simple formula gives you the number of gallons in your pond or tank. Take all measurements in feet Average Length x Average Width x Average Depth x 7.48 = Gallons of Water.

Need help figuring out the gallons and square footage of your large pond? Visit <a href="http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0002.html">http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0002.html</a>for details on surface area calculations.

Wonder exactly what happens to your fish if you don't remove the chlorine and toxins? "http://www.vcnet.com/koi_net/finalnet.html Poisons, Chlorine, Chloramine, and Pollutants By Norm Meck Koi Club of San Diego 1996




Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...
Call Gail at 641-750-3062 10 am-8 pm CST


---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23513 From: wcnida Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
A crown Tail betta is no more agressive than any other splenden.
They can swim faster than a betta slowed by a lot of fins. Bettas
are their best when given their own tank. It is possible for a male
and felame to live together if the tank is large enough and it is
heavily planted. One of the pair will spend its life in hiding as it
cowers in fear. Bettas are best kept apart. If you want a tank full
of bettas you need to get species bettas. Some of these do better in
a group.

Wally
-
-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> I have a crown-tail betta, and from my research they are the more
> aggressive of the bettas. I currently have him in a 20gal with
guppies
> and two clown loaches. They all were in a 10gal to begin with
though.
> It depends on the betta and the other fish. My betta attacked the
> guppies with my first attempt at intergaration and ate one whole!
He's
> fine now though and they all get along.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully
> together
> > in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
> > guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
> > well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to
> know
> > if it was possible. Thanks Pearly
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23514 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Barbara, You just said something here that I half-suspected all
along that you may be doing, yet I realize I still could be wrong on
this. However, by any chance, when you do add salt do you "throw"
salt directly into the tank when you think it needs it, as might be
suggested in your question? Aside from the fact that salt does not
evaporate, if you were to add salt directly to the tank without first
dissolving it and then thoroughly circulating (mixing this solution)
it throughout the aquarium before taking a reading, it will give you
a different reading after it dissolves. The salt should first be
dissolved thoroughly before adding (and mixing) it to the tank at the
same time as you watch the hydrometer. Once you get the hydrometer
to where you want it, it cannot change (unless undissolved salts in
the tank continue to go into solution, or unless you add more
solution). Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, barbara thomas <Birdlady746@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Hello, yes I am using the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I
havent tapped the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like
there should be an easier way. All I seem to do is drip water
everywhere and still cant get two readings that are the same. If it
says that more salt is neede, what do you do if you have fish in the
tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks, Barbie
>
>
> To: AquaticLife@...: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:52:10 -
0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing
wrong????!!!
>
>
>
>
> Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones,
you have to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like
a ink pin to knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA
Aquariums By Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message -----
From: barbie4527 To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday,
August 10, 2007 7:10 AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I
doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to
set the salt in my tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the
hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I read it , it is
different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it right
andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my
live sand and live rock in there. Thanks, Barbie----------------------
------------------------------------No virus found in this incoming
message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus
Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text
portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> See what you're getting into…before you go there
> http://newlivehotmail.com/?
ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23515 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: plant identification help...
I posted some photos under 'Noah's beginner tank'. can you guys help me
idntify these plants? (the snail as well if anyone knows.) The shop I
went to stuck me with the sales girl who knew nothing about the stock.
Yes, idiot me forgot to get any names, scientific or otherwise. Next
time I will shop online for plants. Thank you so much for your help (I
promise I will consider any and all advice without question or
complaint.) ;)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23516 From: barbara thomas Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
OMG, that is exactly what I have been doing. Gee, maybe I will try doing it the right way and see what happens....what a newbie I am!!! Thanks Ray, Barb


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: sevenspringss@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 17:52:16 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!




Barbara, You just said something here that I half-suspected all along that you may be doing, yet I realize I still could be wrong on this. However, by any chance, when you do add salt do you "throw" salt directly into the tank when you think it needs it, as might be suggested in your question? Aside from the fact that salt does not evaporate, if you were to add salt directly to the tank without first dissolving it and then thoroughly circulating (mixing this solution) it throughout the aquarium before taking a reading, it will give you a different reading after it dissolves. The salt should first be dissolved thoroughly before adding (and mixing) it to the tank at the same time as you watch the hydrometer. Once you get the hydrometer to where you want it, it cannot change (unless undissolved salts in the tank continue to go into solution, or unless you add more solution). Ray--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, barbara thomas <Birdlady746@...> wrote:>> > Hello, yes I am using the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I havent tapped the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like there should be an easier way. All I seem to do is drip water everywhere and still cant get two readings that are the same. If it says that more salt is neede, what do you do if you have fish in the tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks, Barbie> > > To: AquaticLife@...: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:52:10 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!> > > > > Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA Aquariums By Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message -----From: barbie4527 To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10 AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in there. Thanks, Barbie----------------------------------------------------------No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > __________________________________________________________> See what you're getting into�before you go there> http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>


_________________________________________________________________
Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too!
http://club.live.com/home.aspx?icid=CLUB_wlmailtextlink

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23517 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Barbie, You want a salinity reading of 1.022-1.024. If it's below that, add
heavy mixed saltwater to the tank slowly. Take a few cups of salt mix and
mix it very well untill disolved in a 1/2 gallon of water.
If it's above that add reverse osmosis water slowly untill you reach to glow
of 1.022-1.024.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "barbara thomas" <Birdlady746@...>
To: <aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!



Hello, yes I am using the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I havent tapped
the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like there should be an easier
way. All I seem to do is drip water everywhere and still cant get two
readings that are the same. If it says that more salt is neede, what do you
do if you have fish in the tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks,
Barbie


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug
2007 08:52:10 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing
wrong????!!!




Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have
to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to
knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA Aquariums By
Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message ----- From: barbie4527
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10
AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am
having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my tank. Can anyone
tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I
read it , it is different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it
right andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live
sand and live rock in there. Thanks,
Barbie----------------------------------------------------------No virus
found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476
/ Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text
portions of this message have been removed]


_________________________________________________________________
See what you're getting into.before you go there
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007
2:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23518 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
add reverse osmosis water slowly untill you reach to glow

Should have read : add reverse osmosis water until you reach the goal of

Sorry cant type and chew gum at the same time LOL
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Sissy Sathre
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!


Barbie, You want a salinity reading of 1.022-1.024. If it's below that, add
heavy mixed saltwater to the tank slowly. Take a few cups of salt mix and
mix it very well untill disolved in a 1/2 gallon of water.
If it's above that add reverse osmosis water slowly untill you reach to glow
of 1.022-1.024.

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "barbara thomas" <Birdlady746@...>
To: <aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 9:47 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!

Hello, yes I am using the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I havent tapped
the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like there should be an easier
way. All I seem to do is drip water everywhere and still cant get two
readings that are the same. If it says that more salt is neede, what do you
do if you have fish in the tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks,
Barbie

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug
2007 08:52:10 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing
wrong????!!!

Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have
to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to
knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA Aquariums By
Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message ----- From: barbie4527
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10
AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am
having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my tank. Can anyone
tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I
read it , it is different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it
right andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live
sand and live rock in there. Thanks,
Barbie----------------------------------------------------------No virus
found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476
/ Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text
portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
See what you're getting into.before you go there
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007
2:44 PM






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: bettas
Or grow a brood up together. If you raise a number of splendens fry together, they are much less likely to be aggressive to each other.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of wcnida
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 1:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bettas

A crown Tail betta is no more agressive than any other splenden.
They can swim faster than a betta slowed by a lot of fins. Bettas
are their best when given their own tank. It is possible for a male
and felame to live together if the tank is large enough and it is
heavily planted. One of the pair will spend its life in hiding as it
cowers in fear. Bettas are best kept apart. If you want a tank full
of bettas you need to get species bettas. Some of these do better in
a group.

Wally
-
-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jessica" <jdecorse25@...> wrote:
>
> I have a crown-tail betta, and from my research they are the more
> aggressive of the bettas. I currently have him in a 20gal with
guppies
> and two clown loaches. They all were in a 10gal to begin with
though.
> It depends on the betta and the other fish. My betta attacked the
> guppies with my first attempt at intergaration and ate one whole!
He's
> fine now though and they all get along.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "friendtoallfish"
> <pearlysmith2000@> wrote:
> >
> > Is it possible for a male and female betta to live peacefully
> together
> > in a 55 gallon tank with angels, clown loach, neons, platties and
> > guppies. There are plenty of hiding places and plants in there as
> > well.I know that each betta has its own personality but wanted to
> know
> > if it was possible. Thanks Pearly
> >
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23520 From: William Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
The tall plant I believe is a Dracaena sanderiana (another name is
the dumb cane) which is not a true aquatic plant but will survive
underwater for several months to maybe even a year (if things are to
it's liking). You have to common types of snails, one is the common
pond snail and the other is the rams horn snail. Since these snails
came in on your plants then it is possible that there are egg masses
of these snails on the plants too. Each of these snails have both
sexes in them so it only take two (any two of the same species) to
mate and produce young snails.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I posted some photos under 'Noah's beginner tank'. can you guys
help me
> idntify these plants? (the snail as well if anyone knows.) The
shop I
> went to stuck me with the sales girl who knew nothing about the
stock.
> Yes, idiot me forgot to get any names, scientific or otherwise.
Next
> time I will shop online for plants. Thank you so much for your
help (I
> promise I will consider any and all advice without question or
> complaint.) ;)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23521 From: Jess Cook Date: 8/10/2007
Subject: Hi group, I am new and have a question about Discus
Dear group,

Just wanted to drop a line and say hi and who I am, I am Jessie a twentytwo year old from Melbourne/Australia. I keep fish with my fiance and am a beginner fish follower. I have been keeping fish for about nine months now and think I have so far done quite well (with alot of help)
I have a question about Discus though, I have a group of five hybrids, two males and three females. They are about ten centremeters in size and the females want to breed but the males won't let them as when she lays her eggs the male will just eat them. I have also seen that sometimes the eggs are an obblong shape instead of a small round shape, would this be why the males might eat them?
I also have a pair of bristlenose catfish who have bred and the male has so far been a good dad by looking after the babies but I was wondering if its normal that only five or so are left to be a good size?
Well thats me and my questions,

Have a good day
Jessie


---------------------------------
Sick of deleting your inbox? Yahoo!7 Mail has free unlimited storage. Get it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23522 From: Pickles Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!
heres a website all about the Glo Fish.... http://www.glofish.com/about.asp tells
you all about it...mary

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 8:12 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED HELP!


Once again, the GloFish (TM) Zebra Danios are patented and as long as you
are not breeding them for commercial purposes, I don't think GloFish would
worry... heck, they can't stop the fish from breeding in someone's
aquarium... but if someone was to take their patented genetically enhanced
fish and breed them for commercial purposes, then GloFish might sue and
would most likely win without much problem because they do have a patent
that protects their R & D investment for 10 years or possible even longer.
I'm not a patent attorney.

There are lots of "animals" patented in the bio-medical field... of course,
the "animals" are usually genetically enhanced microbes/genes/etc. of some
sort but there are patents issued for these "inventions". It's the only way
to protect the R & D investments that companies make to develop these new
strains of "things" used for research.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 9:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking to breed Glowlight Danio's ....NEED
HELP!

I would love to see that one in the courts…how do you patent an animal?

Eric
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23523 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: Black furry algae
jfazio@...
X-Priority: 3
Importance: Normal
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I have it all on my plants and on some decorations. I've removed and cleaned the decos. Should I uproot and clean plants, too? And if so, what product(s) might be effective?

I would also like to learn how to prevent this from happening again. I do weekly water chgs to my 55 g tank, which is iin no way overcrowded. My fish are community variety. Water parameters test fine, which is on the acidic side. fish are compatible withacidic water.

Thanks.

Jeannie Fazio, from mobile phone jfazio@... :: 207-752-4700 :: http://prioritiesonline.com ::

-----Original Message-----

From: barbara thomas <Birdlady746@...>
Subj: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Date: Fri Aug 10, 2007 2:20 pm
Size: 4K
To: <aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com>


OMG, that is exactly what I have been doing. Gee, maybe I will try doing it the right way and see what happens....what a newbie I am!!! Thanks Ray, Barb


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: sevenspringss@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 17:52:16 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!




Barbara, You just said something here that I half-suspected all along that you may be doing, yet I realize I still could be wrong on this. However, by any chance, when you do add salt do you "throw" salt directly into the tank when you think it needs it, as might be suggested in your question? Aside from the fact that salt does not evaporate, if you were to add salt directly to the tank without first dissolving it and then thoroughly circulating (mixing this solution) it throughout the aquarium before taking a reading, it will give you a different reading after it dissolves. The salt should first be dissolved thoroughly before adding (and mixing) it to the tank at the same time as you watch the hydrometer. Once you get the hydrometer to where you want it, it cannot change (unless undissolved salts in the tank continue to go into solution, or unless you add more solution). Ray--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, barbara thomas <Birdlady746@...> wrote:>> > Hello, yes I am using
the Ocean 6 or whatever it is called. I havent tapped the pointer. I will try that. It just seems like there should be an easier way. All I seem to do is drip water everywhere and still cant get two readings that are the same. If it says that more salt is neede, what do you do if you have fish in the tank? Can you throw salt in the tank? Thanks, Barbie> > > To: AquaticLife@...: ssathre@...: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 08:52:10 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!> > > > > Barbie, what kind are you using ? If it's one of the plastic ones, you have to knock off all bubbles on the pointer. Use something like a ink pin to knock the bubbles off. Hopes this helps !Sissy SathreDBA Aquariums By Sissywww.aquariumsbysissy.com----- Original Message -----From: barbie4527 To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2007 7:10 AMSubject: [AquaticLife] Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt
in my tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in there. Thanks, Barbie----------------------------------------------------------No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.11/944 - Release Date: 8/9/2007 2:44 PM[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > __________________________________________________________> See what you're getting into�before you go there> http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_0507> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]>


_________________________________________________________________
Recharge--play some free games. Win cool prizes too!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





--- message truncated ---
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23524 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/11/2007
Subject: new to group
Hello everyone!! My name is Lisa. I have a 35 gallon hexagon tank with gold fish right now. Well, 2 gold fish, 1 Koi and a Plecostamus (forgive me if I spelled that wrong ). I use to have guppies that I bred but my husband forced me to get out of that. Now I'm going through a divorce and live on my own and would love to get back into it. At one time I had 11 tanks set up. Now I have a bigger house with more room so anything is possible. I was trying to keep all my empty tanks for future use but that didn't work so now I have to work on slowly rebuilding my stuff back up. But when I do it will be bigger and better than ever. I am really interested in hearing about other people's tanks and what kind of set ups they have. Well, to make a long story short... I work in Nuclear security as a shift supervisor, I have a five year old son and an 8 year old daughter, 2 adorable cocker spaniels, a wonderful Belgian draft horse, and the fish that I listed above. I love the
outdoors, nature, rollerblading, weight lifting, volleyball, hiking, camping, and many other things. My fish help me relax. I've been through alot of stress being in a bad marriage which ended in him hitting me with our vehicle (I'm ok now) and I have to tell you the most relaxing thing I could find was to just watch my fish swim around the tank. I could watch them for hours. Ok, riding my horse is the most relaxing thing but watching the fish is the most relaxing thing I can do when I'm in the house. Ok, enough about me... tell me about you.

Lisa from Illinois
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23525 From: Jess Cook Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: new to group
Hey Lisa,

I am also new though I made my intro post sometime yesterday, I have two tanks set up for my community tropical fish. I have a three foot tank that holds about 140litres of water and a four foot tank that holds about 200litres of water for my discus fish and various other fish. I love koi fish and want to get some for my pond that I will be setting up soon. Too be honest I can't stand guppies but I do like goldfish, I have about three good sized ones that are happily floating about in their smaller tank.
I live with my fiance in Melbourne/Australia, no kids yet but do want some in the future. I have three indoor rabbits that are gorgous. One kitty and my partner breeds birds such as lovebirds and finches. I want to get a quaker which is a parrot but need to save up first as they are a little out of my budget at the moment.
I work part time cleaning and my partner is a computer repairer, I am also studying a certificate in business administration as I want to get into a better job.

Hope to hear from you soon Lisa,

Sincerely,

Jessie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23526 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: UGF cleaning...
Hi All,

I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out
and clean under it? I vacuum every week and do a 30% water
change. I have two 60 gallon internal filters running also in
the 55 gallon tank. I notice when I vacuum over the UGF I
get a lot stuff coming out. Are you supposed to break things
down and clean it? I know you probably have this in your blog
Lenny but I am at work so I can't pull it up. Thanks!

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23527 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
You do not need to remove the UGF. If you are using the plate type, you should, every so often, thread a tube down under it to vacuum out the mulm that will collect under it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 2:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...

Hi All,

I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out
and clean under it? I vacuum every week and do a 30% water
change. I have two 60 gallon internal filters running also in
the 55 gallon tank. I notice when I vacuum over the UGF I
get a lot stuff coming out. Are you supposed to break things
down and clean it? I know you probably have this in your blog
Lenny but I am at work so I can't pull it up. Thanks!

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23528 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Ok, thanks Steve. I'll try that on my next PWC.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sun 8/12/2007 3:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...



You do not need to remove the UGF. If you are using the plate type, you should, every so often, thread a tube down under it to vacuum out the mulm that will collect under it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 2:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...

Hi All,

I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out
and clean under it? I vacuum every week and do a 30% water
change. I have two 60 gallon internal filters running also in
the 55 gallon tank. I notice when I vacuum over the UGF I
get a lot stuff coming out. Are you supposed to break things
down and clean it? I know you probably have this in your blog
Lenny but I am at work so I can't pull it up. Thanks!

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23529 From: lseldin Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
>> I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out
> and clean under it?<<

Traci,

I had a UGF for many years. I also had fish deaths for many years. It
was recommended from many people on the Fish forums to get rid of it.
If you have a salt water tank, then you would purchase a skimmer. For
a fresh water tank, I do not know the best filtration. However, after
I got rid of my UGF my chemicals improved dramatically and my fish
losses were much less.

- larryTAKEOUT@...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23530 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Larry,
I'll take some water and get it tested then. I have lost a couple
of mollies but everything else is doing well. Maybe that's why.
Thanks for the "heads up". I appreciate it.

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of lseldin
Sent: Sun 8/12/2007 5:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: UGF cleaning...



>> I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out
> and clean under it?<<

Traci,

I had a UGF for many years. I also had fish deaths for many years. It
was recommended from many people on the Fish forums to get rid of it.
If you have a salt water tank, then you would purchase a skimmer. For
a fresh water tank, I do not know the best filtration. However, after
I got rid of my UGF my chemicals improved dramatically and my fish
losses were much less.

- larryTAKEOUT@... <mailto:larryTAKEOUT%40seldin.net>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23531 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Thank you very much, William. I just got back from camping and there
are already 4 snails in the tank. 3 are very small though.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...>
wrote:
>
> The tall plant I believe is a Dracaena sanderiana (another name is
> the dumb cane) which is not a true aquatic plant but will survive
> underwater for several months to maybe even a year (if things are to
> it's liking). You have to common types of snails, one is the common
> pond snail and the other is the rams horn snail. Since these snails
> came in on your plants then it is possible that there are egg masses
> of these snails on the plants too. Each of these snails have both
> sexes in them so it only take two (any two of the same species) to
> mate and produce young snails.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23532 From: Debbie Swick Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
Barbie, Also being a newbie to saltwater tanks, but I have found that if you don't rinse out your meter between readings it could effect it too... guess the salt build up inside the meter... good luck.... Debbie/ca Posted by: "barbie4527" Birdlady746@... barbie4527 Fri Aug 10, 2007 5:12 am (PST) Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my
tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must
not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add
either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read
it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in
there. Thanks, Barbie




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23533 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/12/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Actually, you are correct. On my blog about Filter Cleaning and
Maintenance, there is a section on UGF's. Why can't you view my blog at
work? Are you allowed to do email but not web surfing?

Here is a copy/paste of the UGF section from my Filter Cleaning &
Maintenance blog...

UGF's (Under Gravel Filters) -

These systems are not as common any more but some forum polls show up to 40%
of fish keepers still use UGF's on some of their tanks.

There is also a reverse flow UGF that is making a comeback in the industry.
I am thinking about trying this system if I ever have to breakdown my
Goldfish/Pleco tank. The purpose of the reverse flow UGF is to push water up
through the gravel which raises the detritus into the water column to be
sucked into the intake and filtered out of the water before the "clean"
water is returned to the tank through the gravel. This could save time in
gravel vacuuming since it would not have to be done very often with this
type of system but it does not work for planted tanks where the plants with
a normal substrate. It would work if the plants are containerized plants.

The main thing with a regular UGF, that sucks the water down through the
gravel (so it's not as good for a planted tank either), is to properly
maintain them by vacuuming the gravel really good with the vacuum tube
pushed down through the gravel to the UGF plate and make sure you suck up
all of the detritus/mulm that gets caught between the gravel/plate/bottom.

Many of the older UGF filters on smaller tanks were under-powered with only
an air line bubbler to power the up-tube siphon and these did not create
enough suction which allowed excess mulm to build up under the gravel and
UGF plates. Modern UGF's are powered by power heads, canister filters or HOB
power filters which help eliminate the danger of mulm buildup but the gravel
should still be vacuumed well all the way down to the UGF plate to make sure
the excess mulm and detritus are removed.

Here's a forum thread about what happened to someone when they tried to
"clean" or replace their UGF...
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5895&highlight and some "scientific"
info about what is in the mulm...
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2349

Here are several sites on UGF maintenance & cleaning:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-an-under-gravel-filter-or-ugf.htm

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/lifttube.html

http://www.goldfishparadise.com/care/filter.php

Hope this helps and I realize you may not be able to view the links while at
work but try to read them while at home.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...

Hi All,

I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out and clean under
it? I vacuum every week and do a 30% water change. I have two 60 gallon
internal filters running also in the 55 gallon tank. I notice when I vacuum
over the UGF I get a lot stuff coming out. Are you supposed to break things
down and clean it? I know you probably have this in your blog Lenny but I am
at work so I can't pull it up. Thanks!

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.13/947 - Release Date: 8/11/2007
2:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23534 From: nrstype2004 Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Hydrometer, what am I doing wrong????!!!
When I ditched my hydrometer, for a refractometer, I never have any
issues any longer with bubbles or miss~reads. Yes... they are a bit
more expensive, but always on the money, with no guesswork. Ebay is
around 40$. Well worth it.

Just a suggestion if you get tired of readings being off or inconsistent.

:-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "barbie4527" <Birdlady746@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I am having a dickens of a time tryoing to set the salt in my
> tank. Can anyone tell me exactly how to use the hydrometer. I must
> not know how, every time I read it , it is different. Then I add
> either fresh water or salt to get it right andthe next hout I read
> it , it is so different. Geesh! I have my live sand and live rock in
> there. Thanks, Barbie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23535 From: nrstype2004 Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
The other plant may be a anubius nana possibly... with a little algae
growth on it.

<http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2384>

The snails.. GET RID OF THEM. They multiply way too rapidly. I
consider them pest snails. The multiply like wildfire, and difficult
to control. (the common pond snail and rams horn ones)

Once they are introduced into the system, they are hard to get rid of.
Usually.. they are hitch~hikers from aquatic plants purchased at a
fish/pet store. A gelatinous clutch of eggs, almost invisible, are
usually on the plant that transports the young snails to your environment.

If you want or need algae eaters, there are other snails that can do
this, that are easy to control, raise, and are more visually
attractive, and fun to watch.

I pick these out, and throw them in the trash, or give them away as
puffer fish food.

And.. like dreammaker2623 stated, the Dracaena sanderiana will not
last forever in the tank, because it is not a true aquatic plant. You
can enjoy it for as long as it will last, do not be surprised if it
slowly "melts" away.

Nice guppy pics. Good luck.

Wendy :-)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> The tall plant I believe is a Dracaena sanderiana (another name is
> the dumb cane) which is not a true aquatic plant but will survive
> underwater for several months to maybe even a year (if things are to
> it's liking). You have to common types of snails, one is the common
> pond snail and the other is the rams horn snail. Since these snails
> came in on your plants then it is possible that there are egg masses
> of these snails on the plants too. Each of these snails have both
> sexes in them so it only take two (any two of the same species) to
> mate and produce young snails.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I posted some photos under 'Noah's beginner tank'. can you guys
> help me
> > idntify these plants? (the snail as well if anyone knows.) The
> shop I
> > went to stuck me with the sales girl who knew nothing about the
> stock.
> > Yes, idiot me forgot to get any names, scientific or otherwise.
> Next
> > time I will shop online for plants. Thank you so much for your
> help (I
> > promise I will consider any and all advice without question or
> > complaint.) ;)
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23536 From: Kate Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23537 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: plant identification help...
Thank you Wendy. From what I gathered from book research, I thought
it was a nana. Next time, I will get my plants elsewhere.

The snails are indeed multiplying like crazy. When I went camping,
there were two. Now there are 7 at the very least and I suspect quite
a few more. I will perpare to remove them.

> The other plant may be a anubius nana possibly... with a little
algae
> growth on it.
>
> <http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?pCatId=2384>
>
> The snails.. GET RID OF THEM. They multiply way too rapidly. I
> consider them pest snails. The multiply like wildfire, and
difficult
> to control. (the common pond snail and rams horn ones)
>
> Once they are introduced into the system, they are hard to get rid
of.
> Usually.. they are hitch~hikers from aquatic plants purchased at a
> fish/pet store. A gelatinous clutch of eggs, almost invisible, are
> usually on the plant that transports the young snails to your
environment.
>
> If you want or need algae eaters, there are other snails that can do
> this, that are easy to control, raise, and are more visually
> attractive, and fun to watch.
>
> I pick these out, and throw them in the trash, or give them away as
> puffer fish food.
>
> And.. like dreammaker2623 stated, the Dracaena sanderiana will not
> last forever in the tank, because it is not a true aquatic plant.
You
> can enjoy it for as long as it will last, do not be surprised if it
> slowly "melts" away.
>
> Nice guppy pics. Good luck.
>
> Wendy :-)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23538 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: help with bottom dwellers
My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish for
quite a while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos
or catfish. I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but
can someone suggest some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small
(maybe 2 inches or less?) Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a
catfish? Or would it be better to stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same
species?
Thanks for any advice! :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23539 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
ancistrus species(known commonly as bushy nose) usually stay small



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23540 From: Rich Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Hi, you might try cory cats (2in.),they are schouling fish, & otto
cats (1.5in.) they are good for alge. Hope this helps.
Rich







--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge"
<noahburge2b@...> wrote:
>
> My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish for
> quite a while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some
plecos
> or catfish. I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but
> can someone suggest some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small
> (maybe 2 inches or less?) Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a
> catfish? Or would it be better to stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same
> species?
> Thanks for any advice! :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23541 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Check out www . Planetcatfish . com

they have information on most known forms of catfish/plecos.

I do believe plecos are included in the catfish family.

Corydora catfish stay relatively small.
I have some dwarf or pygmy cories that are just over an inch.
I have a few other cories that are under three inches.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 2:04 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers






My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish for
quite a while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos
or catfish. I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but
can someone suggest some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small
(maybe 2 inches or less?) Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a
catfish? Or would it be better to stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same
species?
Thanks for any advice! :)





________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23542 From: Wendie Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
dwarf bristlenose plecos would be a good bet.
You can get all your information from Planet Catfish or check out www.plecofanatics.com



----- Original Message -----
From: Deenerz@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers


Check out www . Planetcatfish . com

they have information on most known forms of catfish/plecos.

I do believe plecos are included in the catfish family.

Corydora catfish stay relatively small.
I have some dwarf or pygmy cories that are just over an inch.
I have a few other cories that are under three inches.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 13 Aug 2007 2:04 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers

My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish for
quite a while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos
or catfish. I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but
can someone suggest some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small
(maybe 2 inches or less?) Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a
catfish? Or would it be better to stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same
species?
Thanks for any advice! :)

__________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23543 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Pleco's are catfish for all practical purposes.... they are Suckermouth
Catfish. You've mentioned that you have a small aquarium but you don't say
how small. Without knowing the size of the aquarium and what other fish you
have, it's difficult to recommend anything... but certainly most Pleco's
would get much too large for a "small aquarium". Even the smaller dwarf
pleco's grow to around 4" - 6" which is too big for a 10G or 20G tank. Give
us more info on your tank and more folks would give you feedback. There are
many species of corydora catfish that stay small (2" to 3") but most of them
need to be in shoals of 5-6 so they would be an overload on most "small
aquariums" by themselves, much less with any other fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers

My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish for quite a
while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos or catfish.
I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but can someone suggest
some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small (maybe 2 inches or less?)
Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a catfish? Or would it be better to
stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same species?
Thanks for any advice! :)

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007
11:03 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23544 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23545 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
Sorry I thought I had. It's a 10 gallon tank. So Lenny, can you
please give me some suggestions on what types of bottom dwellers I
could have in such a small tank? Am I forever (or until I get a
bigger tank) doomed to have 3 or 4 guppies and nothing else? What
criteria should I use to determine how many fish will fit?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Pleco's are catfish for all practical purposes.... they are
Suckermouth
> Catfish. You've mentioned that you have a small aquarium but you
don't say
> how small. Without knowing the size of the aquarium and what other
fish you
> have, it's difficult to recommend anything... but certainly most
Pleco's
> would get much too large for a "small aquarium". Even the smaller
dwarf
> pleco's grow to around 4" - 6" which is too big for a 10G or 20G
tank. Give
> us more info on your tank and more folks would give you feedback.
There are
> many species of corydora catfish that stay small (2" to 3") but
most of them
> need to be in shoals of 5-6 so they would be an overload on
most "small
> aquariums" by themselves, much less with any other fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers
>
> My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish
for quite a
> while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos or
catfish.
> I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but can
someone suggest
> some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small (maybe 2 inches or
less?)
> Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a catfish? Or would it be
better to
> stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same species?
> Thanks for any advice! :)
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date:
8/12/2007
> 11:03 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23546 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
I recently posted this but you may have missed it. Below is my blog on a
10G stocking suggestion list that a fish-friend of mine, Hailey, prepared a
while back. I have it on my blog now so feel free to read it over and
consider the things that Hailey has thoughtfully suggested for a 10G tank.
Pay particular attention to what Hailey says about only keeping male guppies
so you are not overrun with babies since a 10G tank can't handle the added
bioload.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

If the link wraps or breaks, go to my main blog link in my sig and on the
right side, under March, you will see "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank Stocking List
and Suggestions".

Hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 10:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: help with bottom dwellers

Sorry I thought I had. It's a 10 gallon tank. So Lenny, can you please give
me some suggestions on what types of bottom dwellers I could have in such a
small tank? Am I forever (or until I get a bigger tank) doomed to have 3 or
4 guppies and nothing else? What criteria should I use to determine how many
fish will fit?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Pleco's are catfish for all practical purposes.... they are
Suckermouth
> Catfish. You've mentioned that you have a small aquarium but you
don't say
> how small. Without knowing the size of the aquarium and what other
fish you
> have, it's difficult to recommend anything... but certainly most
Pleco's
> would get much too large for a "small aquarium". Even the smaller
dwarf
> pleco's grow to around 4" - 6" which is too big for a 10G or 20G
tank. Give
> us more info on your tank and more folks would give you feedback.
There are
> many species of corydora catfish that stay small (2" to 3") but
most of them
> need to be in shoals of 5-6 so they would be an overload on
most "small
> aquariums" by themselves, much less with any other fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers
>
> My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish
for quite a
> while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos or
catfish.
> I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but can
someone suggest
> some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small (maybe 2 inches or
less?)
> Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a catfish? Or would it be
better to
> stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same species?
> Thanks for any advice! :)
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date: 8/12/2007
11:03 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23547 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/13/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
You're right, Lenny. You did post it before. Thank you your help. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I recently posted this but you may have missed it. Below is my
blog on a
> 10G stocking suggestion list that a fish-friend of mine, Hailey,
prepared a
> while back. I have it on my blog now so feel free to read it over
and
> consider the things that Hailey has thoughtfully suggested for a
10G tank.
> Pay particular attention to what Hailey says about only keeping
male guppies
> so you are not overrun with babies since a 10G tank can't handle
the added
> bioload.
>
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-
stocking-list.h
> tml
>
> If the link wraps or breaks, go to my main blog link in my sig and
on the
> right side, under March, you will see "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank
Stocking List
> and Suggestions".
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 10:45 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: help with bottom dwellers
>
> Sorry I thought I had. It's a 10 gallon tank. So Lenny, can you
please give
> me some suggestions on what types of bottom dwellers I could have
in such a
> small tank? Am I forever (or until I get a bigger tank) doomed to
have 3 or
> 4 guppies and nothing else? What criteria should I use to determine
how many
> fish will fit?
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Pleco's are catfish for all practical purposes.... they are
> Suckermouth
> > Catfish. You've mentioned that you have a small aquarium but you
> don't say
> > how small. Without knowing the size of the aquarium and what other
> fish you
> > have, it's difficult to recommend anything... but certainly most
> Pleco's
> > would get much too large for a "small aquarium". Even the smaller
> dwarf
> > pleco's grow to around 4" - 6" which is too big for a 10G or 20G
> tank. Give
> > us more info on your tank and more folks would give you feedback.
> There are
> > many species of corydora catfish that stay small (2" to 3") but
> most of them
> > need to be in shoals of 5-6 so they would be an overload on
> most "small
> > aquariums" by themselves, much less with any other fish.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:04 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers
> >
> > My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish
> for quite a
> > while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos or
> catfish.
> > I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but can
> someone suggest
> > some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small (maybe 2 inches or
> less?)
> > Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a catfish? Or would it be
> better to
> > stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same species?
> > Thanks for any advice! :)
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date:
8/12/2007
> 11:03 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23548 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: New to the group- Looking for advice
I'm new to this group, but have been raising fish successfully for 12
years. I currently have a 40 gallon hexagon tank, which was a gift,
that currently houses a single 4 inch clown loach, 4 neon tetras, 3
black tetras, 2 glowlight tetras, and about 20+ guppies. I want to add
more fish, but have heard so many stories about clown loaches being
aggressive if alone, aggressive/territorial in groups, can someone
please set this straight? Also, I want to introduce live plants into my
tank, but with the tank being taller than wider, what plants would be
tall enough to provide hiding for the fry, while filling up the
background? What is the best fertilizer for plants that contains all
the needed nutrients? liquid or tablets? Do they need CO2? I have one
plant that is with my betta who is very productive in producing leaves
with only daily light and sometimes Leaf Zone. Any advice would be
great! Thanks!

-Chantelle
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23549 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group- Looking for advice
For long term success, you need a much larger tank for clown loaches. They
should grow to at least 12" and as long as 16" to 20" and should be kept in
shoals of five or more so they really need a really big tank to thrive.
Here's a couple of good profiles on them.
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html
http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus

With rehoming the loach and just keeping the rest of your fish, you are
pretty much maxed out as far as the bioload goes so I would avoid going on a
fish buying spree, especially since the guppies will likely continue to
reproduce like rabbits. As you know, most hex tanks are tall so they have
limited surface area for proper gas exchange which makes them less suitable
for full or heavy bioloads of fish or bigger fish which put out lots of
waste.

Tall tanks are also tougher to have live plants since the water is so much
deeper and the light does not penetrate as well so you would probably be
limited to low light plants. The good things about low light plants is that
they usually do not need a lot of fertilizers and CO2 injection so that
would at least make things easier for you. Here's a couple of pages of
"Easy" and "Very Easy" plants that you can look over and find suitable and
available plants for your tank.
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

You could also have floating plants like hornwort, anacharis, guppy grass,
etc. that would due a lot for the ecosystem since they would still suck up
the nitrates, phosphates and other nutrients and they would get plenty of
light since they float so they would do well in a tall tank. As the
anacharis stalks get long enough, you could bunch up several of them and use
a rock or other anchor so the ends will sit on the bottom while the stalks
grow up towards the surface.

Good luck and hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 5:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to the group- Looking for advice

I'm new to this group, but have been raising fish successfully for 12 years.
I currently have a 40 gallon hexagon tank, which was a gift, that currently
houses a single 4 inch clown loach, 4 neon tetras, 3 black tetras, 2
glowlight tetras, and about 20+ guppies. I want to add more fish, but have
heard so many stories about clown loaches being aggressive if alone,
aggressive/territorial in groups, can someone please set this straight?
Also, I want to introduce live plants into my tank, but with the tank being
taller than wider, what plants would be tall enough to provide hiding for
the fry, while filling up the background? What is the best fertilizer for
plants that contains all the needed nutrients? liquid or tablets? Do they
need CO2? I have one plant that is with my betta who is very productive in
producing leaves with only daily light and sometimes Leaf Zone. Any advice
would be great! Thanks!

-Chantelle



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.17/951 - Release Date: 8/13/2007
10:15 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23550 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/14/2007
Subject: Re: help with bottom dwellers
I think corydoras are small and are good bottom feeders and don't grow that
big.about 2.5" for a full grown adult. I have the albino long fin cory.

-------Original Message-------

From: Noah Burge
Date: 8/13/2007 5:48:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: help with bottom dwellers

Sorry I thought I had. It's a 10 gallon tank. So Lenny, can you
please give me some suggestions on what types of bottom dwellers I
could have in such a small tank? Am I forever (or until I get a
bigger tank) doomed to have 3 or 4 guppies and nothing else? What
criteria should I use to determine how many fish will fit?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Pleco's are catfish for all practical purposes.... they are
Suckermouth
> Catfish. You've mentioned that you have a small aquarium but you
don't say
> how small. Without knowing the size of the aquarium and what other
fish you
> have, it's difficult to recommend anything... but certainly most
Pleco's
> would get much too large for a "small aquarium". Even the smaller
dwarf
> pleco's grow to around 4" - 6" which is too big for a 10G or 20G
tank. Give
> us more info on your tank and more folks would give you feedback.
There are
> many species of corydora catfish that stay small (2" to 3") but
most of them
> need to be in shoals of 5-6 so they would be an overload on
most "small
> aquariums" by themselves, much less with any other fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 4:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] help with bottom dwellers
>
> My tank has been up for a week now, so I won't add any more fish
for quite a
> while yet (at least 4 weeks), but when I do, I want some plecos or
catfish.
> I know they both get pretty big for a small aqarium, but can
someone suggest
> some cats and/or plecos that stay fairly small (maybe 2 inches or
less?)
> Also, is it possible to have a pleco and a catfish? Or would it be
better to
> stay with adding 2 or 3 of the same species?
> Thanks for any advice! :)
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.15/949 - Release Date:
8/12/2007
> 11:03 AM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23551 From: taner yildiz Date: 8/15/2007
Subject: hello
hi everybody
ý am from turkey
ý wait your good mails
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23552 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 8/15/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group- Looking for advice
I personally wouldn't add anymore fish. It sounds like you are well stocked.

Try some java moss for the guppies. It's super easy to grow (you don't need
to do anything), and gets pretty dense, so it's good for fry.
Emily


On 8/14/07, chanzyfitz88 <chanzy88@...> wrote:
>
> I'm new to this group, but have been raising fish successfully for 12
> years. I currently have a 40 gallon hexagon tank, which was a gift,
> that currently houses a single 4 inch clown loach, 4 neon tetras, 3
> black tetras, 2 glowlight tetras, and about 20+ guppies. I want to add
> more fish, but have heard so many stories about clown loaches being
> aggressive if alone, aggressive/territorial in groups, can someone
> please set this straight? Also, I want to introduce live plants into my
> tank, but with the tank being taller than wider, what plants would be
> tall enough to provide hiding for the fry, while filling up the
> background? What is the best fertilizer for plants that contains all
> the needed nutrients? liquid or tablets? Do they need CO2? I have one
> plant that is with my betta who is very productive in producing leaves
> with only daily light and sometimes Leaf Zone. Any advice would be
> great! Thanks!
>
> -Chantelle
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23553 From: quelchjulie Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Ram Eggs
Hi everyone,

Sunday i brought two gold rams,and to much surprise this morning,i
have found them guarding loads of white eggs on one of the plant
leaves,everytime one of my other fish go near the eggs the Rams are
chasing them off,Does anyone how long these eggs take to hatch and how
will i know when they have hatched,they are so tiny?this is my first
time with anything like this,please help!!!
hgs
julie
xxx
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23554 From: kate hardy Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up and coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily, just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of information was the culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list and your email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please let me know if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not come named but through online research I believe I have identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to be decomposing: even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await any advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>





---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23555 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: UGF cleaning...
Hi Lenny,

Exactly. They have us set up on an intranet system at work to stop
us surfing when we should be working. :)

I'll try to get them up at home. Thanks for the info. Sorry it took so
long to get back to you... Work is busy. :)

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sun 8/12/2007 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...



Actually, you are correct. On my blog about Filter Cleaning and
Maintenance, there is a section on UGF's. Why can't you view my blog at
work? Are you allowed to do email but not web surfing?

Here is a copy/paste of the UGF section from my Filter Cleaning &
Maintenance blog...

UGF's (Under Gravel Filters) -

These systems are not as common any more but some forum polls show up to 40%
of fish keepers still use UGF's on some of their tanks.

There is also a reverse flow UGF that is making a comeback in the industry.
I am thinking about trying this system if I ever have to breakdown my
Goldfish/Pleco tank. The purpose of the reverse flow UGF is to push water up
through the gravel which raises the detritus into the water column to be
sucked into the intake and filtered out of the water before the "clean"
water is returned to the tank through the gravel. This could save time in
gravel vacuuming since it would not have to be done very often with this
type of system but it does not work for planted tanks where the plants with
a normal substrate. It would work if the plants are containerized plants.

The main thing with a regular UGF, that sucks the water down through the
gravel (so it's not as good for a planted tank either), is to properly
maintain them by vacuuming the gravel really good with the vacuum tube
pushed down through the gravel to the UGF plate and make sure you suck up
all of the detritus/mulm that gets caught between the gravel/plate/bottom.

Many of the older UGF filters on smaller tanks were under-powered with only
an air line bubbler to power the up-tube siphon and these did not create
enough suction which allowed excess mulm to build up under the gravel and
UGF plates. Modern UGF's are powered by power heads, canister filters or HOB
power filters which help eliminate the danger of mulm buildup but the gravel
should still be vacuumed well all the way down to the UGF plate to make sure
the excess mulm and detritus are removed.

Here's a forum thread about what happened to someone when they tried to
"clean" or replace their UGF...
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5895&highlight and some "scientific"
info about what is in the mulm...
http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2349

Here are several sites on UGF maintenance & cleaning:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-an-under-gravel-filter-or-ugf.htm

http://archimedes.galilei.com/raiar/lifttube.html

http://www.goldfishparadise.com/care/filter.php

Hope this helps and I realize you may not be able to view the links while at
work but try to read them while at home.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2007 1:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UGF cleaning...

Hi All,

I have a question about my UGF. Do you have to take it out and clean under
it? I vacuum every week and do a 30% water change. I have two 60 gallon
internal filters running also in the 55 gallon tank. I notice when I vacuum
over the UGF I get a lot stuff coming out. Are you supposed to break things
down and clean it? I know you probably have this in your blog Lenny but I am
at work so I can't pull it up. Thanks!

Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.476 / Virus Database: 269.11.13/947 - Release Date: 8/11/2007
2:29 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23556 From: crabbarat Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Crabs
Hi Everyone,
im new to the group and new to crab keeping, i have red crabs and two
sumo crabs, is there anyone else in the group who keeps aquatic crabs?
id love to hear from you.
thanks
Maz
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23557 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
I do presume you have a reason for using RO water. I've never lived in
an area where it was needed for me to try RO, and I've lived in a number
of areas across the country. I've kept live plants, but I am far from
being an expert on the topic. One thing I seem to recall is that
vallesneria and saggitarius do not co-habit very well. Given your choice
of plants, I'd remove the val, especially since you ID it as jungle val.
If it is, the leaves will grow 6 feet long, not really a plant for a 10
gallon tank.

I like the harlequins. Give them the right conditions, they'll really
shine.

I always cross my fingers when purchasing alga eaters. Many of them
really only eat certain species of algae, and if you have the wrong fish
for the algae you have, they can starve amidst apparent plenty. And 5 of
the little otos seems to be overkill in your tank, since if they are
successful, you'll run out of algae to keep them well fed.

All plants will go through a period, when moved to a new tank, where
they will not grow, or, in the case of some, like cryptocorenes, will
die back almost completely, before they start to make a comeback. This
is referred to as transplant shock. There really is not anything you can
do during this period to promote good growth, or to make the plants look
better. You really just need to grin and bear it for at least a few
weeks or months, depending on the plants you have. This is probably why
you had such an abundant growth of algae when you returned from your
forced absence. There was plenty of food available, thanks to the
fertilizer, and the algae had oh so much light to start growing and
taking over the tank. Food and light are two of algae's most favorite
things in the world, and an abundance of both is a dream come true for
it. When the other plants start to grow, they will out compete the algae
for the food.

If this were me, and remember, I am not an expert here, I'd first dump
the jungle val--someone will probably be willing to take it off your
hands. I'd stop the fertilizing until it looks like it is needed, after
the initial spurt of growth from my plants, and I'd also stop using the
other water additives you are using. From here, there does not seem ot
be a need for them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor.
I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm
sure you would not want to discourage any up and coming
hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help in this
matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule
but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily, just not in
my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of information was the
culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an
aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the
photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list
and your email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please
let me know if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with
live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of
the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I
was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18
watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not
come named but through online research I believe I have identified the
rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle
Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java Fern and
Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't look so
hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I was referring
to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the plants as well as
lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to be decomposing:
even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I
just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await
any advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23558 From: Aaron Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank
Hi Kate,

Welcome to the group and to the planted tank hobby.

I have been "experimenting" with live plants for a few years and I am
still learning (usually the hard way what not to do)

I have had some amazing results and many more horrible episodes.

There is definitely a learning curve involved and Patience truly is a
virtue.

The 10 gallon is going to be a great challenge. The bigger the better.
If you can, start with a larger tank, the 10 gallon will still be use
full as a Quarantine Tank.

I started with and still have a 55 gallon.

One thing that I bought recently that really seemed to work "magic" is
an in tank Ultra-Violet Sterilizer. There are now several different
models to choose from.

Less fertilizer and more plants. The more (plants) the merrier.
Densely planted is the goal. The picture shows it to be sparsely
planted. Some great beginner plants are Water Wisteria, Hornwort and
Anachris - they grow fast and are relatively inexpensive.

I also like the Sword plants, but they are too big for a 10 gallon.

Get a timer for the lights, that way it will always be consitant.
Start it out at 8 hours a day and gradually increase it to 12.

I use the Eco-Complete substrate. Never tried sand.

The one pic - "The leaves on this one look the worst. I can't remember
the name of the plant."- looks like Anubis Nana? maybe

The tank will have different kinds of algae for different reasons, if
you know the type of algae we can narrow it down to potential causes
and through process of elimination, treat each algae outbreak
individually. There will likely be "cycles" as well where you will
have typical stages or phases as the tank matures.



So suggestions -


A great book I like is - "Aquarium Plants, the Practical Guide" by Mr.
Pablo Teapot

Invest in a Test Kit specifically for the Planted Aquariums

Create a maintenance log and record your parameters every week at a
minimum, include water changes and fertilizing and additions to the
tank including fish and plants

Stop fertilizing and reduce feeding until algae clears

More plants to compete against the algae - Water Wisteria, Hornwort
and Anachris

a Timer that automatically turns the lights on and off

gradually increase from 8 to 12 hours of light

Ultra-Violet (UV) Sterilizer

use a larger tank and keep the 10 for quarantine

possibly introduce more CO2 into the water, DIY kits are about as
simple as a 2 liter soda bottle, yeast, sugar, and tubing, and there
are a variety of kits available

find out if there are any local Planted Aquarium or General Aquarist
society's in your area and check out one of their get-togethers

as a last resort - Hydrogen Peroxide will kill Algae - but read up on
it first

Patience


Hope that Helps

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23559 From: nicolebitan17 Date: 8/16/2007
Subject: New with Guppies
Hello,

I would just like to know do guppies why guppies jump out of a shellow
small (15mm in diameter) man made bowl pood? 1 of my friends told
because the are happy. I don't think so. SO can anyone tell me why and
how to prevent from them jumping out.

Well I told my friend to put over the smail bowl pond a net to prevent
from jumping out.

Nicole another guppy fan.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23560 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Kate, Please don't take the lack of response to your previous
post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-ness.
We do always need as much information as possible in order to have a
good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.

As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using R/O
(Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since you
do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s), I'm
led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for the
fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using pure
R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should NEVER be
used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result in
an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
(dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the total "vacuum" of
minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
ability to control.

The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth in
the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use 100%
R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
(hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental scenario
with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your tank
having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
mentioned.

Included with this value, and added to your other parameters, should
be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help but
notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely important
for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be monitored
regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept aware of
any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up and
coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help
in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy
schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily,
just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
information was the culprit.
> To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned
in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants
in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to
list and your email provided me just that. So without further ado,
and please let me know if I am missing anything you require...........
>
> Kate's tank
> Size-10 gallon
> Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started
with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
>
> Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
>
> Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the
case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice
a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm
sure over-fertilization was a problem.
>
> Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
>
> Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
hours)
>
> Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
not come named but through online research I believe I have
identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java
Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't
look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I
was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem
to be decomposing: even the new ones.
>
> Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which
I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails
which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you
are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical,
shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on
them.
>
> Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> Nitrate-0
> Nitrite-0
> Total Hardness-75
> Total Chlorine-0
> Total Alkalinity-180
> pH-7.2
>
> I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
await any advice any of you might have!
>
> Thanks,
> Kate
>
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
> Kate,
>
> There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
> message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
> extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
over 2
> hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items
to
> write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages,
I'd
> not have the time to reply to yours.
>
> Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
> ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an
idea
> of who you are and your level of experience.
>
> Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s)
with
> the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
> reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
> Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You
love
> that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
>
> Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
> missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know
you
> posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
> much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
> there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
> example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
show 3,
> because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
range of
> your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
temperature,
> etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
> partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using?
How
> are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your
normal
> lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't
look
> so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> glasses?
>
> The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.
>
> One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own
test
> kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to
have
> them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
> yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you
mean
> when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or
7.8?
> Very important information.
>
> I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others
learn
> how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
stern in
> telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
> something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
>
> If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
> need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
> control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Kate
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
> intro/snail identification
>
> I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
> responded.
> Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
> little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
> with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
> and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
(Spearpoint
> Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
> well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
into
> a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
> I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging
out
> in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
> once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
> right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae.
They
> are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
> quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> Kate
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
figured
> > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so
hot.
> > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I
have
> > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
section.
> > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my
condo
> > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why
you
> > can see a lot in the photos.
> >
> > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > Kate
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone
who knows.
> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23561 From: christian_girl77 Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Great website for buying Macroalgae
I just ordered plants from Gulf Coast Ecosystems and they are a great
company! You get tons of plans and they ship priority mail so the cost
is lower. Their website is www.live-plants.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23562 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Kate,

Why are you using RO water? Are you mixing it with your tap water?

I'm not a planted tank expert but you have 3.6 wpg of lighting and
typically, if you have that much lighting and adding fertilizers, you would
also need CO2 injection. There is a balance of lighting, fertilizer and CO2
that should be reached for optimal plant growth and if you are adding two of
the three, then you do not have this balance and that could be causing some
of your problems and will usually lead to excessive algae growth.

I know some others have chimed in as well but I haven't seen the "holy
trinity" (lighting, fertilizer, CO2) mentioned.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the somewhat
aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor. I'll just
assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm sure you
would not want to discourage any up and coming hobbyists......right? I
joined this list specifically for help in this matter. I can absolutely
appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule but it does seem that helpful
emails tend to appear daily, just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct:
that my lack of information was the culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an aquarium
and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the photos of an
aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi?
<http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi?> and wanted to do the same
type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list and your
email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please let me know
if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with live
freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of the
fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I was
adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red Sea_Nano
Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18 watts
each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not come
named but through online research I believe I have identified the rest to be
Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf
Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one
I cannot identify. The Java Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood.
When I said they don't look so hot, although a parka would have been more
entertaining, I was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of
the plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to
be decomposing: even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I just
bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0 Total Hardness-75 Total Chlorine-0 Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await any
advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> > wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your message.
I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few extra minutes
here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2 hours, and actually
had to look up your message in my deleted items to write this reply. Had I
needed to write replies to many messages, I'd not have the time to reply to
yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea of
who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with the
experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to reply, and
hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love that
computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be missing
that would help those who can answer your question. I know you posted
pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have much time,
that is not a real option--to go up and look for the pictures, so you need
to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also, there is a lot of information
that a picture will not convey. For example, you could have 8 fish in the
tank, but the photos only show 3, because the others are obscured by plants
or are not within the range of your lens, etc. Also, what are your water
parameters, pH, temperature, etc. What are the plants in your tank, after
all you said they were partially obscured by algal growth which came on
during a forced absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
using? How are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your
normal lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't
look so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests yourself
so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean when you say
the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn how
to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in telling
you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us something to
answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank, need to
give it less light while the algae problem is brought under control, and
your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a little
condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live with the planted
tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel and 2 Leaf Fish, 5
terrariums which currently house Uroplatus Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail
Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who
are absolutely amazing. I grow Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as
well as various other tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several
reptiles as well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
into a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well I'll
be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out in a
storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium once it's
happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails right now that I
haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They are small in size and
have brown shells with little clear spots throughout the shell that allow
you to see their bodies inside. It's quite pretty. Anyone know what they
are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007
1:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23563 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank
Hi Aaron,

Thank you for the info! I started out with only 4 plants according to advice from the aforementioned aquarium store owner. I waited to add more as I thought I should have the conditions right first. Two days ago I thought to myself "if plants are natural biological filters why don't I just get more?". So I did hence the larger list of plants I added in my response to Steve. I had contemplated the idea of a bigger tank be easier as well. I think I'll go grab my 30 or 75. Hopefully I can find room.
I think I might go ahead and try that nearby artesian well after reading responses and definitely stop listening to the locals. haha. I'll test my tap water and see how bad it really is too. I saw a CO2 kit the other day. I'll give that a try.

I really appreciate your time.

Kate

Aaron <massagetherapist@...> wrote:

Hi Kate,

Welcome to the group and to the planted tank hobby.

I have been "experimenting" with live plants for a few years and I am
still learning (usually the hard way what not to do)

I have had some amazing results and many more horrible episodes.

There is definitely a learning curve involved and Patience truly is a
virtue.

The 10 gallon is going to be a great challenge. The bigger the better.
If you can, start with a larger tank, the 10 gallon will still be use
full as a Quarantine Tank.

I started with and still have a 55 gallon.

One thing that I bought recently that really seemed to work "magic" is
an in tank Ultra-Violet Sterilizer. There are now several different
models to choose from.

Less fertilizer and more plants. The more (plants) the merrier.
Densely planted is the goal. The picture shows it to be sparsely
planted. Some great beginner plants are Water Wisteria, Hornwort and
Anachris - they grow fast and are relatively inexpensive.

I also like the Sword plants, but they are too big for a 10 gallon.

Get a timer for the lights, that way it will always be consitant.
Start it out at 8 hours a day and gradually increase it to 12.

I use the Eco-Complete substrate. Never tried sand.

The one pic - "The leaves on this one look the worst. I can't remember
the name of the plant."- looks like Anubis Nana? maybe

The tank will have different kinds of algae for different reasons, if
you know the type of algae we can narrow it down to potential causes
and through process of elimination, treat each algae outbreak
individually. There will likely be "cycles" as well where you will
have typical stages or phases as the tank matures.

So suggestions -

A great book I like is - "Aquarium Plants, the Practical Guide" by Mr.
Pablo Teapot

Invest in a Test Kit specifically for the Planted Aquariums

Create a maintenance log and record your parameters every week at a
minimum, include water changes and fertilizing and additions to the
tank including fish and plants

Stop fertilizing and reduce feeding until algae clears

More plants to compete against the algae - Water Wisteria, Hornwort
and Anachris

a Timer that automatically turns the lights on and off

gradually increase from 8 to 12 hours of light

Ultra-Violet (UV) Sterilizer

use a larger tank and keep the 10 for quarantine

possibly introduce more CO2 into the water, DIY kits are about as
simple as a 2 liter soda bottle, yeast, sugar, and tubing, and there
are a variety of kits available

find out if there are any local Planted Aquarium or General Aquarist
society's in your area and check out one of their get-togethers

as a last resort - Hydrogen Peroxide will kill Algae - but read up on
it first

Patience

Hope that Helps

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>






---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23564 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Thanks Steve.

We have pretty hard water in Salt Lake and the "expert" I talked to at the aquarium store said I should only be using RO. Since I have RO readily available it made sense. There is also an artesian well by my house that people have been using for years. I've thought about trying that.

I thought the same thing about the Val. It seems to be way too long for the ten gallon. When I started the tank I decided to play the "I'm dumb, help me" role at the aquarium store and the guy told me it was a good starter plant. Not so impressed with his choices so far.

The Otocinclus were also another recommendation. I have 2 other fish tanks I can transfer some to if the algae runs low and can always feed cucumbers in it's absence as well. I had pondered a bushy nosed Pleco. Any thoughts?

I'll stop the additives, find a home for the Val and cut back on the light.

Thanks,
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: I do presume you have a reason for using RO water. I've never lived in
an area where it was needed for me to try RO, and I've lived in a number
of areas across the country. I've kept live plants, but I am far from
being an expert on the topic. One thing I seem to recall is that
vallesneria and saggitarius do not co-habit very well. Given your choice
of plants, I'd remove the val, especially since you ID it as jungle val.
If it is, the leaves will grow 6 feet long, not really a plant for a 10
gallon tank.

I like the harlequins. Give them the right conditions, they'll really
shine.

I always cross my fingers when purchasing alga eaters. Many of them
really only eat certain species of algae, and if you have the wrong fish
for the algae you have, they can starve amidst apparent plenty. And 5 of
the little otos seems to be overkill in your tank, since if they are
successful, you'll run out of algae to keep them well fed.

All plants will go through a period, when moved to a new tank, where
they will not grow, or, in the case of some, like cryptocorenes, will
die back almost completely, before they start to make a comeback. This
is referred to as transplant shock. There really is not anything you can
do during this period to promote good growth, or to make the plants look
better. You really just need to grin and bear it for at least a few
weeks or months, depending on the plants you have. This is probably why
you had such an abundant growth of algae when you returned from your
forced absence. There was plenty of food available, thanks to the
fertilizer, and the algae had oh so much light to start growing and
taking over the tank. Food and light are two of algae's most favorite
things in the world, and an abundance of both is a dream come true for
it. When the other plants start to grow, they will out compete the algae
for the food.

If this were me, and remember, I am not an expert here, I'd first dump
the jungle val--someone will probably be willing to take it off your
hands. I'd stop the fertilizing until it looks like it is needed, after
the initial spurt of growth from my plants, and I'd also stop using the
other water additives you are using. From here, there does not seem ot
be a need for them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor.
I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm
sure you would not want to discourage any up and coming
hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help in this
matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule
but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily, just not in
my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of information was the
culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an
aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the
photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list
and your email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please
let me know if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with
live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of
the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I
was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18
watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not
come named but through online research I believe I have identified the
rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle
Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java Fern and
Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't look so
hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I was referring
to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the plants as well as
lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to be decomposing:
even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I
just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await
any advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>





---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23565 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Ps. Any idea on the snails? Anyone? They're closer to 1/2 inch now.

Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: I do presume you have a reason for using RO water. I've never lived in
an area where it was needed for me to try RO, and I've lived in a number
of areas across the country. I've kept live plants, but I am far from
being an expert on the topic. One thing I seem to recall is that
vallesneria and saggitarius do not co-habit very well. Given your choice
of plants, I'd remove the val, especially since you ID it as jungle val.
If it is, the leaves will grow 6 feet long, not really a plant for a 10
gallon tank.

I like the harlequins. Give them the right conditions, they'll really
shine.

I always cross my fingers when purchasing alga eaters. Many of them
really only eat certain species of algae, and if you have the wrong fish
for the algae you have, they can starve amidst apparent plenty. And 5 of
the little otos seems to be overkill in your tank, since if they are
successful, you'll run out of algae to keep them well fed.

All plants will go through a period, when moved to a new tank, where
they will not grow, or, in the case of some, like cryptocorenes, will
die back almost completely, before they start to make a comeback. This
is referred to as transplant shock. There really is not anything you can
do during this period to promote good growth, or to make the plants look
better. You really just need to grin and bear it for at least a few
weeks or months, depending on the plants you have. This is probably why
you had such an abundant growth of algae when you returned from your
forced absence. There was plenty of food available, thanks to the
fertilizer, and the algae had oh so much light to start growing and
taking over the tank. Food and light are two of algae's most favorite
things in the world, and an abundance of both is a dream come true for
it. When the other plants start to grow, they will out compete the algae
for the food.

If this were me, and remember, I am not an expert here, I'd first dump
the jungle val--someone will probably be willing to take it off your
hands. I'd stop the fertilizing until it looks like it is needed, after
the initial spurt of growth from my plants, and I'd also stop using the
other water additives you are using. From here, there does not seem ot
be a need for them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor.
I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm
sure you would not want to discourage any up and coming
hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help in this
matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule
but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily, just not in
my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of information was the
culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an
aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the
photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list
and your email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please
let me know if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with
live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of
the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I
was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18
watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not
come named but through online research I believe I have identified the
rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle
Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java Fern and
Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't look so
hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I was referring
to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the plants as well as
lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to be decomposing:
even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I
just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await
any advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>





---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23566 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Thanks Lenny. I'll definitely be looking into other forms of water and the CO2 injection as well.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Hi Kate,

Why are you using RO water? Are you mixing it with your tap water?

I'm not a planted tank expert but you have 3.6 wpg of lighting and
typically, if you have that much lighting and adding fertilizers, you would
also need CO2 injection. There is a balance of lighting, fertilizer and CO2
that should be reached for optimal plant growth and if you are adding two of
the three, then you do not have this balance and that could be causing some
of your problems and will usually lead to excessive algae growth.

I know some others have chimed in as well but I haven't seen the "holy
trinity" (lighting, fertilizer, CO2) mentioned.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the somewhat
aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor. I'll just
assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as I'm sure you
would not want to discourage any up and coming hobbyists......right? I
joined this list specifically for help in this matter. I can absolutely
appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule but it does seem that helpful
emails tend to appear daily, just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct:
that my lack of information was the culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an aquarium
and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the photos of an
aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi?
and wanted to do the same
type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list and your
email provided me just that. So without further ado, and please let me know
if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with live
freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of the
fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I was
adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red Sea_Nano
Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18 watts
each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not come
named but through online research I believe I have identified the rest to be
Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf
Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one
I cannot identify. The Java Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood.
When I said they don't look so hot, although a parka would have been more
entertaining, I was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of
the plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to
be decomposing: even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I just
bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0 Total Hardness-75 Total Chlorine-0 Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await any
advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo > wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your message.
I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few extra minutes
here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2 hours, and actually
had to look up your message in my deleted items to write this reply. Had I
needed to write replies to many messages, I'd not have the time to reply to
yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea of
who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s) with the
experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to reply, and
hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love that
computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be missing
that would help those who can answer your question. I know you posted
pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have much time,
that is not a real option--to go up and look for the pictures, so you need
to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also, there is a lot of information
that a picture will not convey. For example, you could have 8 fish in the
tank, but the photos only show 3, because the others are obscured by plants
or are not within the range of your lens, etc. Also, what are your water
parameters, pH, temperature, etc. What are the plants in your tank, after
all you said they were partially obscured by algal growth which came on
during a forced absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
using? How are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your
normal lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't
look so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests yourself
so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean when you say
the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn how
to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern in telling
you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us something to
answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank, need to
give it less light while the algae problem is brought under control, and
your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a little
condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live with the planted
tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel and 2 Leaf Fish, 5
terrariums which currently house Uroplatus Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail
Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who
are absolutely amazing. I grow Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as
well as various other tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several
reptiles as well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
into a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well I'll
be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out in a
storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium once it's
happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails right now that I
haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They are small in size and
have brown shells with little clear spots throughout the shell that allow
you to see their bodies inside. It's quite pretty. Anyone know what they
are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ,
"Kate" wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007
1:46 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23567 From: kate hardy Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Ray,

Your info on RO water was great. Any thoughts on the artesian well I mentioned in other emails? Of course I'll test it first. And I forgot to test the ammonia yesterday. I'll do that today. I'll check my tap water too. I think I actually might have soft water in this place. I just moved in. The hard water in slc was always great for cichlids that I've done in the past but when the Aquarium guy said use RO only for the plants I just took him at his word.

Thanks!
Kate

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Hi Kate, Please don't take the lack of response to your previous
post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-ness.
We do always need as much information as possible in order to have a
good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.

As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using R/O
(Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since you
do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s), I'm
led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for the
fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using pure
R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should NEVER be
used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result in
an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
(dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the total "vacuum" of
minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
ability to control.

The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth in
the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use 100%
R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
(hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental scenario
with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your tank
having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
mentioned.

Included with this value, and added to your other parameters, should
be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help but
notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely important
for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be monitored
regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept aware of
any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up and
coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help
in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy
schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily,
just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
information was the culprit.
> To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned
in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants
in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to
list and your email provided me just that. So without further ado,
and please let me know if I am missing anything you require...........
>
> Kate's tank
> Size-10 gallon
> Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started
with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
>
> Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
>
> Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the
case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice
a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm
sure over-fertilization was a problem.
>
> Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
>
> Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
hours)
>
> Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
not come named but through online research I believe I have
identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java
Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't
look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I
was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem
to be decomposing: even the new ones.
>
> Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which
I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails
which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you
are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical,
shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on
them.
>
> Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> Nitrate-0
> Nitrite-0
> Total Hardness-75
> Total Chlorine-0
> Total Alkalinity-180
> pH-7.2
>
> I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
await any advice any of you might have!
>
> Thanks,
> Kate
>
>
> Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
> Kate,
>
> There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
> message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
> extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
over 2
> hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items
to
> write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages,
I'd
> not have the time to reply to yours.
>
> Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
> ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an
idea
> of who you are and your level of experience.
>
> Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s)
with
> the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
> reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
> Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You
love
> that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
>
> Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
> missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know
you
> posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
> much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
> there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
> example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
show 3,
> because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
range of
> your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
temperature,
> etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
> partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using?
How
> are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your
normal
> lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't
look
> so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> glasses?
>
> The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.
>
> One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own
test
> kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to
have
> them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
> yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you
mean
> when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or
7.8?
> Very important information.
>
> I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others
learn
> how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
stern in
> telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
> something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
>
> If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
> need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
> control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Kate
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
> intro/snail identification
>
> I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
> responded.
> Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
> little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
> with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
> and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
(Spearpoint
> Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
> well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
into
> a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
> I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging
out
> in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
> once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
> right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae.
They
> are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
> quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> Kate
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
figured
> > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so
hot.
> > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I
have
> > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
section.
> > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my
condo
> > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why
you
> > can see a lot in the photos.
> >
> > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > Kate
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone
who knows.
> Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23568 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Question from a New Member
Hi Everyone,

I joined this group a couple of days ago. I bought my first freshwater
tropical fish aquarium (20 gallon) at the beginning of the week, and
need some advice. I set up the aquarium on Monday, so all I need to do
now is decide what fish to put into the aquarium. Could anyone give me
some advice on some good fish to start out with? I'm not that familiar
with the different kinds of freshwater tropical fish, so any advice
would be welcome. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23569 From: Kate Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Update on planted tank
Ok I got the ammonia level. It was right inbetween the colors that
indicated 0 and .5. I added a Wisteria today. I also took all the
plants out of their pots, something I should have done in the begining
I'm sure, and did a bit of rearranging. Here is a picture if anyone is
interested(so you don't have to look up my album).

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/be95.jpg?
grIzlxGBIe7fo_pC

I have a couple more of the suggestions to follow this weekend and then
we'll give it some time.

Thanks all!
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23570 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
When I started my first tank I started with feeder goldfish. They are the cheapest fish out there so if your tank isn't ready and you lose them, you are only out maybe a couple dollars. And if they live and you want other fish you can always find someone to take them. I'm sure people have other ideas but that is what I did and it worked quite well.

Lisa from Illinois

rjames1973 <rjames1973@...> wrote:
Hi Everyone,

I joined this group a couple of days ago. I bought my first freshwater
tropical fish aquarium (20 gallon) at the beginning of the week, and
need some advice. I set up the aquarium on Monday, so all I need to do
now is decide what fish to put into the aquarium. Could anyone give me
some advice on some good fish to start out with? I'm not that familiar
with the different kinds of freshwater tropical fish, so any advice
would be welcome. Thanks!

- Jim






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23571 From: William Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
It sounds
regular pond snails that might not be getting the calcium that is
needed for the shell growth. The shells will be thinner and easier
to crush (for either you or your fish). As long as you do not
overfeed the tank you should not have a problem with the snails
overpopulating the tank. If they do a population explosion then you
can trap them by either putting a lettuce leaf in the aquarium (just
make sure that you rinse it well before you put it in to get rid of
any sprays that might be on it) or you can put a small jar that the
fish cannot get in but the snail can and put some food in the bottom
in the tank. In the morning you should have several snails that you
can do with as you wish. You might have to do this several times to
get rid of then completely. I do not try to get rid of them in my
planted tanks because they actually can soften the water (by using
calcium for their shells) and at least in my tanks they do not harm
my plants.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Ps. Any idea on the snails? Anyone? They're closer to 1/2 inch now.
>
> Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23572 From: Aaron Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Update on planted tank
Hi Kate,

The pictures showed some yellow looking leaves. I believe that may be
an indication of insufficient iron. Not sure if your sand supplies
any, if not, you may want to add laterite or other similar substrate
enhancers if the sand does not provide any iron naturally. And a test
kit for Iron as well.

I also noticed (in the picture linked to) in the far left corner,
some lighter color narrow leaf (needle leaf ludwigia?) plants - I
have not had much luck with any of the narrow or light color plants.
Easiest plants for me so far have been wide leaves and dark green -
the only exception being the Wisteria - its leaves will change shape
and color depending on the conditions.


Do you have any Algae growth on the Glass or equipment, or is just on
the plants?

Just curious if there is any sunlight reaching the aquarium?


Hope that helps,

Have a Great Weekend

Aaron


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> ... Here is a picture if anyone is interested

f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/be95.jpg?grIzlxGBIe7fo_pC

...
>
> Thanks all!
> Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23573 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.

Follow the advice of others about the RO water and mixing it with a bit
of tap water. You'll probably find it necessary to experiment a bit to
find a good ratio. Check the pH and other quality parameters of straight
RO, then add 10% tap and measure again. Once you hit the point where you
wish to be, you will have a guideline ratio to use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 2:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Thanks Steve.

We have pretty hard water in Salt Lake and the "expert" I talked to at
the aquarium store said I should only be using RO. Since I have RO
readily available it made sense. There is also an artesian well by my
house that people have been using for years. I've thought about trying
that.

I thought the same thing about the Val. It seems to be way too long for
the ten gallon. When I started the tank I decided to play the "I'm dumb,
help me" role at the aquarium store and the guy told me it was a good
starter plant. Not so impressed with his choices so far.

The Otocinclus were also another recommendation. I have 2 other fish
tanks I can transfer some to if the algae runs low and can always feed
cucumbers in it's absence as well. I had pondered a bushy nosed Pleco.
Any thoughts?

I'll stop the additives, find a home for the Val and cut back on the
light.

Thanks,
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
I do presume you have a reason for using RO water. I've never lived in
an area where it was needed for me to try RO, and I've lived in a
number
of areas across the country. I've kept live plants, but I am far from
being an expert on the topic. One thing I seem to recall is that
vallesneria and saggitarius do not co-habit very well. Given your
choice
of plants, I'd remove the val, especially since you ID it as jungle
val.
If it is, the leaves will grow 6 feet long, not really a plant for a 10
gallon tank.

I like the harlequins. Give them the right conditions, they'll really
shine.

I always cross my fingers when purchasing alga eaters. Many of them
really only eat certain species of algae, and if you have the wrong
fish
for the algae you have, they can starve amidst apparent plenty. And 5
of
the little otos seems to be overkill in your tank, since if they are
successful, you'll run out of algae to keep them well fed.

All plants will go through a period, when moved to a new tank, where
they will not grow, or, in the case of some, like cryptocorenes, will
die back almost completely, before they start to make a comeback. This
is referred to as transplant shock. There really is not anything you
can
do during this period to promote good growth, or to make the plants
look
better. You really just need to grin and bear it for at least a few
weeks or months, depending on the plants you have. This is probably
why
you had such an abundant growth of algae when you returned from your
forced absence. There was plenty of food available, thanks to the
fertilizer, and the algae had oh so much light to start growing and
taking over the tank. Food and light are two of algae's most favorite
things in the world, and an abundance of both is a dream come true for
it. When the other plants start to grow, they will out compete the
algae
for the food.

If this were me, and remember, I am not an expert here, I'd first dump
the jungle val--someone will probably be willing to take it off your
hands. I'd stop the fertilizing until it looks like it is needed, after
the initial spurt of growth from my plants, and I'd also stop using the
other water additives you are using. From here, there does not seem ot
be a need for them.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside the
somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the humor.
I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of belittlement as
I'm
sure you would not want to discourage any up and coming
hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for help in this
matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a busy schedule
but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear daily, just not in
my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of information was the
culprit.
To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I mentioned in
my
original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic
show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live plants in an
aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love with the
photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do the
same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to list
and your email provided me just that. So without further ado, and
please
let me know if I am missing anything you require...........

Kate's tank
Size-10 gallon
Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was started with
live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.

Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.

Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish liquid
fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In the case of
the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or twice a week. I
was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants. I'm sure
over-fertilization was a problem.

Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a Red
Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.

Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp fixtures. 18
watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8 hours)

Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did not
come named but through online research I believe I have identified the
rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
Jungle
Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java Fern and
Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they don't look so
hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I was
referring
to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the plants as well as
lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves seem to be decomposing:
even the new ones.

Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus(which I
just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails which
I
mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if you are
familiar
with the ones I described(recap: small, brown, conical, shell with
clear
dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info on them.

Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-180
pH-7.2

I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly await
any advice any of you might have!

Thanks,
Kate


Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to your
message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a few
extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just over 2
hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted items to
write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many messages, I'd
not have the time to reply to yours.

Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a message is
ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get an idea
of who you are and your level of experience.

Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one(s)
with
the experience may not be around, or may not really have the time to
reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1 above.
Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You love
that computer more than you love me), and so on.)

Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to be
missing that would help those who can answer your question. I know you
posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not have
much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well. Also,
there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only show 3,
because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the range
of
your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH, temperature,
etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they were
partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you using? How
are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is your
normal
lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants don't look
so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
glasses?

The more information you can give, the better the answers will be.

One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your own test
kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere to
have
them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the tests
yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what you mean
when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5 or 7.8?
Very important information.

I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and others learn
how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit stern
in
telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to give us
something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.

If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the tank,
need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought under
control, and your plants may be going through some transplant shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member
intro/snail identification

I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no one
responded.
Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved into a
little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now live
with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray Eel
and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui(Spearpoint
Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles as
well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved into
a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does well
I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have hanging out
in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted aquarium
once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat algae. They
are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside. It's
quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
Kate

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
figured
> I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had the
> water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look so hot.
> This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank. I have
> posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
section.
> The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my condo
> for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's why you
> can see a lot in the photos.
>
> Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23574 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Actually, before adding fish, you should "cycle" the tank using "Fishless
Cycling" or by using Bio-Spira. Go to my blog (in sig) and click on the "A
to Z of Fish Keeping" link on the right side. There is lots of good info
and links for beginners and experts and at the top, there is info on
"Fishless Cycling" and Bio-Spira. Regardless of what your pet store may
have told you, just setting up the tank and running it a few days does not
prepare it properly for the fish. You can fishless cycle the tank in as
little as 10-14 days and while you are doing the fishless cycle, then you
can research more about which fish you want to keep.

Is your 20G a tall tank or long tank? Give us the dimensions. Surface area
is a critical part of determining the stocking of a tank. If it is a 20G
tall, you don't have much more surface area than a 10G tank. On my blog,
there is a page called "Hailey's 10G Stocking List & Suggestions". You can
use that as a guideline for which fish would do well in a 20G tropical
community tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 8:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question from a New Member

Hi Everyone,

I joined this group a couple of days ago. I bought my first freshwater
tropical fish aquarium (20 gallon) at the beginning of the week, and need
some advice. I set up the aquarium on Monday, so all I need to do now is
decide what fish to put into the aquarium. Could anyone give me some advice
on some good fish to start out with? I'm not that familiar with the
different kinds of freshwater tropical fish, so any advice would be welcome.
Thanks!

- Jim



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007
1:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23575 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
Although they are cheap, they are still living things and there is no reason
to use live fish to be sacrificed for the purpose of cycling a tank when
there are other methods like using plain ammonia to fishless cycle a tank or
buying Bio-Spira which cycles the tank overnight. Besides, feeder goldfish
are known to have various pathogens which you would be introducing into your
tank which could infect your new fish when you get them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 5:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Question from a New Member

When I started my first tank I started with feeder goldfish. They are the
cheapest fish out there so if your tank isn't ready and you lose them, you
are only out maybe a couple dollars. And if they live and you want other
fish you can always find someone to take them. I'm sure people have other
ideas but that is what I did and it worked quite well.

Lisa from Illinois

rjames1973 <rjames1973@... <mailto:rjames1973%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
Hi Everyone,

I joined this group a couple of days ago. I bought my first freshwater
tropical fish aquarium (20 gallon) at the beginning of the week, and need
some advice. I set up the aquarium on Monday, so all I need to do now is
decide what fish to put into the aquarium. Could anyone give me some advice
on some good fish to start out with? I'm not that familiar with the
different kinds of freshwater tropical fish, so any advice would be welcome.
Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/957 - Release Date: 8/16/2007
1:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/17/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Kate, Glad you found the R/O data informative. From what you're
relating as far as the "Aquarium guy" telling you to use R/O water
only, for the the plants, and your taking him at his word, it does
now seem more obvious to me that you've been using pure R/O water
(even if you still haven't come right out and said that). There are
still responders here who you're still leaving in the dark about
this. Note that you may come across occasional mentions by other
hobbyists saying they use R/O water. By this, they generally mean
that while they use this water, they use it mixed (perhaps this is
what your Aquarium guy meant?) There is an old saying in
science: "nature abhors a vacuum." Pure water, devoid of any
minerals and/or chemicals will slowly dissolve (etch) the glass in
which it is stored.

Your artesian well water might be great -- you'll just have to see
how it tests out. Most often, water of this nature may be somewhat
harder and more alkaline since being drawn from deep in the ground,
it has all the more chance to come in contact with limestone-bearing
rock. Only testing will tell, but even if it tests to the extremes
(excessively hard and alkaline), it might be made ideal when mixed
with R/O water if it can't be used as obtained.

I am more than a little surprised that you apparently have not tested
your tap water yet, as I was under the impression this is why you
went to R/O water, but is understandable after learning you were
directed to go to R/O water from the beginning. Do test your tap
water; it just may be better than the artesian well water you have in
mind, even if you have to use a water conditioner. Depending on the
comparative ease of using these two sources, if your tap water tests
good it would probably be the most convenient way to go when doing
your weekly partial water changes. Glad to see by your post that you
do have an ammonia test kit. Ray


> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> Your info on RO water was great. Any thoughts on the artesian well
I mentioned in other emails? Of course I'll test it first. And I
forgot to test the ammonia yesterday. I'll do that today. I'll check
my tap water too. I think I actually might have soft water in this
place. I just moved in. The hard water in slc was always great for
cichlids that I've done in the past but when the Aquarium guy said
use RO only for the plants I just took him at his word.
>
> Thanks!
> Kate
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote: Hi Kate, Please don't take
the lack of response to your previous
> post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
> see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-
ness.
> We do always need as much information as possible in order to have
a
> good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.
>
> As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using
R/O
> (Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since
you
> do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s),
I'm
> led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for the
> fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
> total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using
pure
> R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
> minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should NEVER
be
> used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result
in
> an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
> adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
> this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
> (dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
> decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
> leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
> unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the total "vacuum"
of
> minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
> ability to control.
>
> The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth
in
> the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
> situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use
100%
> R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
> quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
> aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
> mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
> maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
> (hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental
scenario
> with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your tank
> having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
> although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
> mentioned.
>
> Included with this value, and added to your other parameters,
should
> be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help
but
> notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely
important
> for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
> times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be monitored
> regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept aware
of
> any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
> they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside
the
> somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
> humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
> belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up
and
> coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for
help
> in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a
busy
> schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear
daily,
> just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
> information was the culprit.
> > To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I
mentioned
> in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
> aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live
plants
> in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
> with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
> http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do
the
> same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to
> list and your email provided me just that. So without further ado,
> and please let me know if I am missing anything you
require...........
> >
> > Kate's tank
> > Size-10 gallon
> > Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was
started
> with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
> >
> > Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
> >
> > Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
> liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In
the
> case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or
twice
> a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants.
I'm
> sure over-fertilization was a problem.
> >
> > Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a
Red
> Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
> >
> > Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
> fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
> hours)
> >
> > Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
> not come named but through online research I believe I have
> identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
> Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
> Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java
> Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they
don't
> look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I
> was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
> plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves
seem
> to be decomposing: even the new ones.
> >
> > Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus
(which
> I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails
> which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if
you
> are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown,
conical,
> shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info
on
> them.
> >
> > Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> > Nitrate-0
> > Nitrite-0
> > Total Hardness-75
> > Total Chlorine-0
> > Total Alkalinity-180
> > pH-7.2
> >
> > I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
> await any advice any of you might have!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Kate
> >
> >
> > Steve Szabo <steve@> wrote:
> > Kate,
> >
> > There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to
your
> > message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a
few
> > extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
> over 2
> > hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted
items
> to
> > write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many
messages,
> I'd
> > not have the time to reply to yours.
> >
> > Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a
message is
> > ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get
an
> idea
> > of who you are and your level of experience.
> >
> > Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one
(s)
> with
> > the experience may not be around, or may not really have the
time to
> > reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1
above.
> > Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You
> love
> > that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
> >
> > Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to
be
> > missing that would help those who can answer your question. I
know
> you
> > posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not
have
> > much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> > pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well.
Also,
> > there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
> > example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
> show 3,
> > because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
> range of
> > your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
> temperature,
> > etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they
were
> > partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> > absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
using?
> How
> > are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is
your
> normal
> > lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants
don't
> look
> > so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> > glasses?
> >
> > The more information you can give, the better the answers will
be.
> >
> > One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your
own
> test
> > kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere
to
> have
> > them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the
tests
> > yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what
you
> mean
> > when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5
or
> 7.8?
> > Very important information.
> >
> > I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and
others
> learn
> > how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
> stern in
> > telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to
give us
> > something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
> >
> > If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the
tank,
> > need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought
under
> > control, and your plants may be going through some transplant
shock.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Kate
> > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New
member
> > intro/snail identification
> >
> > I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no
one
> > responded.
> > Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved
into a
> > little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now
live
> > with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray
Eel
> > and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> > Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
> (Spearpoint
> > Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> > Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> > tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles
as
> > well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
> into
> > a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does
well
> > I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have
hanging
> out
> > in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted
aquarium
> > once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
> > right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat
algae.
> They
> > are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> > throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside.
It's
> > quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> > Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> > Kate
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
> figured
> > > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had
the
> > > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look
so
> hot.
> > > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank.
I
> have
> > > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
> section.
> > > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my
> condo
> > > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's
why
> you
> > > can see a lot in the photos.
> > >
> > > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > > Kate
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone
> who knows.
> > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
user panel and lay it on us.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23577 From: surot_swarovski2002 Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: newbie philippines
Dear all,

Mabuhay!

I posted this questions in another website and got some interesting
answers, how about you guys can you help me? please...thanks

Actually, im planning to have a 75gallon planted aquarium.


Heaters
i live in the Philippines and we only have 2 seasons here the dry and
wet season. We dont have or rarely have dramatic/rapid changes in
temperatures so i guess it not necessary for the time being.

Filtration/Filters
does anyone here uses an overhead filter or a hang-on filter for their
planted aquaria? Canister filter is really expensive here, if
its $50 over there here it would be $100. Anyhow, im not planning to
put in some fishes yet i'll do that maybe a month after, i guess I
prefer a fishless cycle. And i have seen this product by Tetra its
called "cycle" its ideal for newly established aquariums to hasten the
cycling process. Does anyone here have heard of it actually used it?
And just yesterday, i went to this pet shop and saw a RESUN external
canister filter has anyone used it?

Lighting
i've scouted the places where i can find those lights mentioned by
these sites as well as others and to my dismay there were only two
stores who can give at the least the lights that my aquarium would
need. I am planning to buy 3x40 watts (10000k) and 2x36 watts (casio)
at the least it can give me 2 watts/gallon. That's the only light i
can find here.

Substrate
Much to my dismay, just like i've said i have exhausted every place in
town to find the best substrate for my aquarium and yet no ECOCOMPLETE
around. Ok, i got an information from the internet about growing
aquarium plants (cheap) and how to build a soil substrate. Of course,
i want what is best for my plants, anyhow it was mentioned there the
use of garden soil as part of the substrate. Then, I found a
sterilized garden soil being sold at our local hardware store but it
says there it contains SILICA and DIATOMITE intended for potted
plants. can i use this as a substrate? and it also says if one is
going to use a substrate with organic materials better mix it with
sand. So what do you think guys and gals?

Actually, im planning for a substrate is what i have mentioned
sterilized garden soil, sphagnum moss, soil-less potting mix and mix
it with lots of aquarium sand then top it off with a regular aquarium
gravel. do you think this would work?

heres the link : http://home.infinet.net/teban/how-to.html

CO2
lighting and substrate are hard to find aquarium requirements and this
one im not just lucky. can anyone give me a link on how to make a CO2
and if its not much to ask at least there's a drawing on how i am
going to run it. I am quite visual when it comes to learning. thank
you for bearing with me guys.

fertilizer
just in case, should i add fertilizer at once?

thank you so much for any response.

Godbless you all
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23578 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: Re: Question from a New Member
In your reading prior to set up of the tank, which fish struck you as
those you would like to keep?

Have seen much on the aquarium cycle, what it is and how it is
accomplished? A "fishless" cycle is probably the safest way to get a
cycle started. It is very easy to do, and will teach you patience, which
can be a very good attribute in this hobby.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 9:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question from a New Member

Hi Everyone,

I joined this group a couple of days ago. I bought my first freshwater
tropical fish aquarium (20 gallon) at the beginning of the week, and
need some advice. I set up the aquarium on Monday, so all I need to do
now is decide what fish to put into the aquarium. Could anyone give me
some advice on some good fish to start out with? I'm not that familiar
with the different kinds of freshwater tropical fish, so any advice
would be welcome. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23579 From: kate hardy Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Thank you William. The dots seem to be more deliberate, like they are meant to be a pattern but I could be completely wrong of course. I'll keep my eye on them.

Kate

William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
It sounds
regular pond snails that might not be getting the calcium that is
needed for the shell growth. The shells will be thinner and easier
to crush (for either you or your fish). As long as you do not
overfeed the tank you should not have a problem with the snails
overpopulating the tank. If they do a population explosion then you
can trap them by either putting a lettuce leaf in the aquarium (just
make sure that you rinse it well before you put it in to get rid of
any sprays that might be on it) or you can put a small jar that the
fish cannot get in but the snail can and put some food in the bottom
in the tank. In the morning you should have several snails that you
can do with as you wish. You might have to do this several times to
get rid of then completely. I do not try to get rid of them in my
planted tanks because they actually can soften the water (by using
calcium for their shells) and at least in my tanks they do not harm
my plants.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Ps. Any idea on the snails? Anyone? They're closer to 1/2 inch now.
>
> Kate






---------------------------------
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Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23580 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/19/2007
Subject: garra pingi and Calcium Bento
We have had a Garra Pingi in our watergarden now for almost two months and he is thriving! He looked alot like a Chinese Algae Eater (CAE) aka long/skinny sucker but he does not appear to have the aggressive tendencies as the CAE I had to wait till we had the underwater camera running to spot him but today when I was doing my weekly maintenance I spotted the little guy out in the open aka not hiding on the underside of my lavarock. The nice thing the underwater camera is that you can see fish close up relatively easily and inspect the fish for bumps, bruises, and scrapes. Every one of the fish we have look in good shape.

The other is a question does anyone use Calcium Benonite in their ponds?

Rick


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23581 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: plants
I have a 35 gallon hex so it is kind of tall. What kind of plants do good at the bottom of a tall tank?


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23582 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Update on planted tank
The Java Fern did have 2 yellow leaves that were dying. I removed the larger one. The substrate I used, I remember now, was from Eco Complete like this http://www.aquariumguys.com/ecocomplete.html . It does contain iron.

There is a tiny bit of bright green algae on the glass. It reminds me of coralline alge. The tank doesn't get really any natural sun. Don't know if that's good or bad.

Kate

Aaron <massagetherapist@...> wrote:
Hi Kate,

The pictures showed some yellow looking leaves. I believe that may be
an indication of insufficient iron. Not sure if your sand supplies
any, if not, you may want to add laterite or other similar substrate
enhancers if the sand does not provide any iron naturally. And a test
kit for Iron as well.

I also noticed (in the picture linked to) in the far left corner,
some lighter color narrow leaf (needle leaf ludwigia?) plants - I
have not had much luck with any of the narrow or light color plants.
Easiest plants for me so far have been wide leaves and dark green -
the only exception being the Wisteria - its leaves will change shape
and color depending on the conditions.

Do you have any Algae growth on the Glass or equipment, or is just on
the plants?

Just curious if there is any sunlight reaching the aquarium?

Hope that helps,

Have a Great Weekend

Aaron

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> ... Here is a picture if anyone is interested

f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/be95.jpg?grIzlxGBIe7fo_pC

...
>
> Thanks all!
> Kate






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23583 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Ray,
Sorry about that, I didn't mean to be so vague. I was using entirely RO. I hadn't really even thought to test the tapwater since A. Like you said I was adhering to advice, B. I've been told it's softwater. Isn't that bad? and C. I've lived here 2 weeks out of the 3 months I've owned it as I've had 2 floods with disaster cleanup taking forever. Radiant heat and cooling are great until someone decides to puncture a line. Thank god I'm on the top floor!
Thanks,
Kate


Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
Hi Kate, Glad you found the R/O data informative. From what you're
relating as far as the "Aquarium guy" telling you to use R/O water
only, for the the plants, and your taking him at his word, it does
now seem more obvious to me that you've been using pure R/O water
(even if you still haven't come right out and said that). There are
still responders here who you're still leaving in the dark about
this. Note that you may come across occasional mentions by other
hobbyists saying they use R/O water. By this, they generally mean
that while they use this water, they use it mixed (perhaps this is
what your Aquarium guy meant?) There is an old saying in
science: "nature abhors a vacuum." Pure water, devoid of any
minerals and/or chemicals will slowly dissolve (etch) the glass in
which it is stored.

Your artesian well water might be great -- you'll just have to see
how it tests out. Most often, water of this nature may be somewhat
harder and more alkaline since being drawn from deep in the ground,
it has all the more chance to come in contact with limestone-bearing
rock. Only testing will tell, but even if it tests to the extremes
(excessively hard and alkaline), it might be made ideal when mixed
with R/O water if it can't be used as obtained.

I am more than a little surprised that you apparently have not tested
your tap water yet, as I was under the impression this is why you
went to R/O water, but is understandable after learning you were
directed to go to R/O water from the beginning. Do test your tap
water; it just may be better than the artesian well water you have in
mind, even if you have to use a water conditioner. Depending on the
comparative ease of using these two sources, if your tap water tests
good it would probably be the most convenient way to go when doing
your weekly partial water changes. Glad to see by your post that you
do have an ammonia test kit. Ray

> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
>
> Your info on RO water was great. Any thoughts on the artesian well
I mentioned in other emails? Of course I'll test it first. And I
forgot to test the ammonia yesterday. I'll do that today. I'll check
my tap water too. I think I actually might have soft water in this
place. I just moved in. The hard water in slc was always great for
cichlids that I've done in the past but when the Aquarium guy said
use RO only for the plants I just took him at his word.
>
> Thanks!
> Kate
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote: Hi Kate, Please don't take
the lack of response to your previous
> post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
> see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-
ness.
> We do always need as much information as possible in order to have
a
> good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.
>
> As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using
R/O
> (Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since
you
> do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s),
I'm
> led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for the
> fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
> total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using
pure
> R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
> minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should NEVER
be
> used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result
in
> an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
> adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
> this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
> (dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
> decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
> leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
> unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the total "vacuum"
of
> minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
> ability to control.
>
> The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth
in
> the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
> situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use
100%
> R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
> quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
> aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
> mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
> maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
> (hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental
scenario
> with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your tank
> having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
> although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
> mentioned.
>
> Included with this value, and added to your other parameters,
should
> be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help
but
> notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely
important
> for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
> times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be monitored
> regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept aware
of
> any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
> they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside
the
> somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
> humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
> belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up
and
> coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for
help
> in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a
busy
> schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear
daily,
> just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
> information was the culprit.
> > To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I
mentioned
> in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
> aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live
plants
> in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
> with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
> http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do
the
> same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need to
> list and your email provided me just that. So without further ado,
> and please let me know if I am missing anything you
require...........
> >
> > Kate's tank
> > Size-10 gallon
> > Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was
started
> with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
> >
> > Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
> >
> > Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
> liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In
the
> case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or
twice
> a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants.
I'm
> sure over-fertilization was a problem.
> >
> > Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a
Red
> Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
> >
> > Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
> fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
> hours)
> >
> > Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
> not come named but through online research I believe I have
> identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum), Dwarf
> Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
> Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The Java
> Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they
don't
> look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining, I
> was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
> plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves
seem
> to be decomposing: even the new ones.
> >
> > Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus
(which
> I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5 snails
> which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if
you
> are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown,
conical,
> shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info
on
> them.
> >
> > Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> > Nitrate-0
> > Nitrite-0
> > Total Hardness-75
> > Total Chlorine-0
> > Total Alkalinity-180
> > pH-7.2
> >
> > I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
> await any advice any of you might have!
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Kate
> >
> >
> > Steve Szabo <steve@> wrote:
> > Kate,
> >
> > There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to
your
> > message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with a
few
> > extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
> over 2
> > hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted
items
> to
> > write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many
messages,
> I'd
> > not have the time to reply to yours.
> >
> > Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a
message is
> > ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get
an
> idea
> > of who you are and your level of experience.
> >
> > Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one
(s)
> with
> > the experience may not be around, or may not really have the
time to
> > reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1
above.
> > Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters (You
> love
> > that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
> >
> > Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems to
be
> > missing that would help those who can answer your question. I
know
> you
> > posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not
have
> > much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> > pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well.
Also,
> > there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey. For
> > example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
> show 3,
> > because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
> range of
> > your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
> temperature,
> > etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they
were
> > partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> > absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
using?
> How
> > are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is
your
> normal
> > lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants
don't
> look
> > so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> > glasses?
> >
> > The more information you can give, the better the answers will
be.
> >
> > One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your
own
> test
> > kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to somewhere
to
> have
> > them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the
tests
> > yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what
you
> mean
> > when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5
or
> 7.8?
> > Very important information.
> >
> > I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and
others
> learn
> > how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
> stern in
> > telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to
give us
> > something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
> >
> > If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the
tank,
> > need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought
under
> > control, and your plants may be going through some transplant
shock.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of Kate
> > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New
member
> > intro/snail identification
> >
> > I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no
one
> > responded.
> > Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved
into a
> > little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now
live
> > with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray
Eel
> > and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> > Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
> (Spearpoint
> > Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> > Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> > tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles
as
> > well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never delved
> into
> > a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does
well
> > I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have
hanging
> out
> > in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted
aquarium
> > once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few snails
> > right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat
algae.
> They
> > are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> > throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside.
It's
> > quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> > Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> > Kate
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium. I
> figured
> > > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had
the
> > > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look
so
> hot.
> > > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank.
I
> have
> > > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
> section.
> > > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of my
> condo
> > > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's
why
> you
> > > can see a lot in the photos.
> > >
> > > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > > Kate
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone
> who knows.
> > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
user panel and lay it on us.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23584 From: kate hardy Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed on a
Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by the chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where the chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be paying more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of what I need to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow or would like to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far as ratios and ph, that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate




Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23585 From: ljjh68 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Aquarium Supplies
I would like to know which are the best places to buy supplies online?

Thanks,
Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23586 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Platy bullying problem
Hi Group,
My daughters brought home some new fish from their annual preschool
field trip to the pet store this Wednesday. Since we still have three
Bettas they brought home last year I called the pet store and asked
for Platys as I did not want to have six tanks to take care of. I
switched one of the Betta's from its six gallon eclipse aquarium to a
bowl until I could order another aquarium. In its place I have put the
new fish which are two platys and one small guppy. With the exception
of having to add an air pump for more aeration everything was going
well until the bigger of the platys started chasing and nipping the
other Platy last night. I got these fish with the ideal that they were
peaceful community fish and I am not sure what to do. Is this normal
for platys?I would appreciate any assistance with this issue.
Thanks,
Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23587 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: breeding bettas
I have a male and female betta. A few days ago the male started
building a bubblenest. I took the female and put her in his tank
(seperated). She got alittle plump with a white dot showing really
well. She would try to swim to him, he would flare and dance to her.
While in seperate quarters I noticed she would release her eggs and
then turn around and eat them. I released her into the tank. He began
to chase and nip and run back to his nest. She would come out of
hiding and look at him and he would flare and wiggle and run back and
forth under the nest. When released the female would show vertical
bars even tho she is really light colored. How long does it take for
them to spawn roughly? She is still plump but staying away from him
now. Have I done everything right by releasing her? Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23588 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: plants
Low light plants. Here are two pages of "Very Easy" and "Easy" plants,
most of which are also low light plants.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

Theses guide pages will also tell you much more about each plant profiled.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 10:22 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] plants

I have a 35 gallon hex so it is kind of tall. What kind of plants do good at
the bottom of a tall tank?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007
7:27 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23589 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Supplies
There are probably thousands of good sites. Here's some of the ones I've
used in the past. http://www.MarineDepot.com, http://www.BigAlsOnline.com,
http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com and their sister site for live stuff,
http://www.LiveAquaria.com. I also use http://www.PetsMart.com for buying
online and also for shopping for prices for when I go to my local store.
The local PetsMart store will match their online prices so I ALWAYS print
out the online prices of things I'm interested in before going to the local
store. I usually save 20-50% off the shelf prices.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ljjh68
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 8:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Supplies

I would like to know which are the best places to buy supplies online?

Thanks,
Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.0/961 - Release Date: 8/19/2007
7:27 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23590 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Kate,

I think you might need to change test kits if it gives measurements as safe or unsafe. You really need the numbers. Tough to find, but the best kits are distributed by Kordon under the Aqua-Tru label.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed on a planted tank)

Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by the chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where the chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be paying more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of what I need to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow or would like to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far as ratios and ph, that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate




Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23591 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: water parameters
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23592 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others. Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(






---------------------------------
Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative vehicles.
Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23593 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
I have had mine take a few days. Just make sure she has plenty of hiding
spaces. Give them a few days and then separate them. Try seperating them with
the female in the males tank. Try this place for answers _International Betta
Congress_ (http://www.ibcbettas.org/) they should have member sites or other
places for info.

Joey



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23594 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Cloudy Water
Hi Everyone,

I purchased a 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish aquarium a week ago. I
treated the water then, took a sample to my local pet shop today,
received the green light to purchase fish, and bought three large
Danios. The fish seem to be doing alright right now, but I am concerned
about something. The water seems to be a bit cloudy. Is this normal or
a problem? Shouldn't the water be clear after circulating for a week?

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23595 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
I have iron enriched substrate, with a thin layer of gravel on top of
that, So the iron shouldn't be an issue, but is a Co2 device really
neccessary in a 10 gal. tank? I realize the plants change everything,
but I thought filtration would be enough. I'm not sure I understand
the whole Co2 thing. There are diffusers and generators and reactors
and controllers and I don't know what-all. Can somenone explain it to
me, or point me to an article that will? Thanks again! :)
>
> Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the
best I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone
needs to use it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as
for the plants they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the
water may be lacking Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a
rule of thumb you should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as
for the Nitrates the plants should be consuming alot of this you may
need to add some sort CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby
grow taking up the excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to
you and others. Thanks Richard
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: http://
pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
> changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Park yourself in front of a world of choices in alternative
vehicles.
> Visit the Yahoo! Auto Green Center.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23596 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Supplies
Hi Lisa,

A lot of people will have different answers for that question.

I occasionally use www.bigalsonline.com for items.? Do not abbreviate that hyperlink or you will see a rather rude site.

For bulk items I like to use www.Kensfish.com
I buy food in 1lb and 5lb volumes.? Or buy sponge filters in volume or air valves.? So it is more economical for me to shop there or at other places that sell items in bulk.?

If just have one tank try Big Als, if you have too many tanks like me try Kensfish.

Mike G.





would like to know which are the best places to buy supplies online?

Thanks,
Lisa



-----Original Message-----
From: ljjh68 <ljjh1@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 6:21 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium Supplies




.




________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23597 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Lethargic New Fish
Hi Everyone,

I just posted a question (See "Cloudy Water"), but I have another
question. I bought three large Danio fish today. Since I put them in
the tank, they just float right next to each other at the bottom and
stare out of the tank in the same direction. They don't seem to want to
swim around much, unless they see me come up to the tank. Is something
wrong, or is this normal behavior for fish when they enter a new
aquarium? I'm concerned that something isn't quite right. Is there
something wrong with the water temperature? I've been taking readings,
and the temperature is between 76-80 degrees. Thanks.

- Jim "Tropical Fish Newbie"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23598 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Where did you come up with the numbers you quote for alkalinity vs.
ammonia? Nowhere in my reading have I seen anything like that. pH does
play a role in the toxicity of ammonia to critters. But no literature
has drawn a conclusion such as yours that breaking down ammonia depends
upon the alkalinity of the water (a measurement different from pH).
Ammonia is not broken down by alkalinity, it is digested by bacteria
that produce nitrites, and other bacteria eat nitrites and produce
nitrate.

Please do give me a source for your statement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best
I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use
it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants
they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking
Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you
should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the
plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort
CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the
excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others.
Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23599 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
I'm on vacation and sort of blasting through e-mail, since my other half
wants to use the computer also, and I have probably several hours worth
of e-mail to properly go through, so I have not looked at your photos.

There is no magic involved, so far a creating a cycle. If you do feel
the need to use chemicals, you should get one that actually works--see
the website www.hikariusa.com for water conditioners that actually work
as advertised.

Messing with pH should be verboten in this hobby. There are several
factors to consider, most of which are beyond the knowledge of the
average hobbyist to measure and know what the measurements mean. You
would be much better off to keep fish and plants that have a tolerance
for the water parameters you Can measure and have a basic understanding
of, pH, temperature, and hardness.

Any testing chemical or strip should have an expiration date attached to
them. They do become ineffective after a time period. Strips do have a
certain reputation for being unreliable. Though they are hard to find,
look for the Aqua Tru brand of test kits distributed by Kordon. In my
not so humble opinion, they are by far the best kits available.

I'd not really worry about the nitrates until they are some where in the
neighborhood of 300 with the fish you have, while you try to get
everything else straightened out. When the plants get over their
transplant shock, they will help with the nitrates, and regular water
changes will also help. Don't forget to test your tap water from time to
time to get a baseline measurement before it goes into your tank. If you
have high nitrates there, you will have high nitrates in your tank. In
theory, your tap water should not be over 10 for nitrates, but all water
companies comply with this standard yet.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] water parameters

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23600 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
The New York State manual on wastewater volume II

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Where did you come up with the numbers you quote for alkalinity vs.
ammonia? Nowhere in my reading have I seen anything like that. pH does
play a role in the toxicity of ammonia to critters. But no literature
has drawn a conclusion such as yours that breaking down ammonia depends
upon the alkalinity of the water (a measurement different from pH).
Ammonia is not broken down by alkalinity, it is digested by bacteria
that produce nitrites, and other bacteria eat nitrites and produce
nitrate.

Please do give me a source for your statement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best
I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use
it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants
they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking
Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you
should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the
plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort
CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the
excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others.
Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(





---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23601 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Waste water operation in an extended aeration wastewater plant in the reactor (open oval shaped basin w/ trains of wheel type rotors for aeration and mixing) is set up just like an aquarium. The breakdown is like this : filters(clarifiers, return pump, and final )+the aquarium( the reactor, and the influent:i.e. raw)+the fishkeeper( the waste pump,i.e.water changes).alkalinity is waters ability to hold ph. Its determined by carbonate hardness. When alkalinity is low this makes the water unstable ph wise and the ph can really jump up or down on you.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Where did you come up with the numbers you quote for alkalinity vs.
ammonia? Nowhere in my reading have I seen anything like that. pH does
play a role in the toxicity of ammonia to critters. But no literature
has drawn a conclusion such as yours that breaking down ammonia depends
upon the alkalinity of the water (a measurement different from pH).
Ammonia is not broken down by alkalinity, it is digested by bacteria
that produce nitrites, and other bacteria eat nitrites and produce
nitrate.

Please do give me a source for your statement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best
I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use
it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants
they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking
Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you
should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the
plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort
CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the
excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others.
Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(





---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23602 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/20/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
What I suggested steve was a resin used in a filter bag not a chemical at all actually it just really makes for an extremely stable water matrix, its far superior to anything I have seen in my industry which is wastewater and seachem sells it what I use is the Hypersorb its really simple put it in a filter bag and just hang it where theres room for it in your filter preferably behind the first stage of your filter crystal clear and a constant and steady ph, no ammonia, 0.25 mg/l nitrite, 12 mg/nitrites, 120 mg/l alkalinity. more later fingers cramping

--------------------------------------------------------------

Steve Szabo wrote:

I'm on vacation and sort of blasting through e-mail, since my other half wants to use the computer also, and I have probably several hours worth of e-mail to properly go through, so I have not looked at your photos.

There is no magic involved, so far a creating a cycle. If you do feel
the need to use chemicals, you should get one that actually works--see
the website www.hikariusa.com for water conditioners that actually work as advertised.

Messing with pH should be verboten in this hobby. There are several
factors to consider, most of which are beyond the knowledge of the
average hobbyist to measure and know what the measurements mean. You
would be much better off to keep fish and plants that have a tolerance
for the water parameters you Can measure and have a basic understanding of, pH, temperature, and hardness.

Any testing chemical or strip should have an expiration date attached to them. They do become ineffective after a time period. Strips do have a certain reputation for being unreliable. Though they are hard to find, look for the Aqua Tru brand of test kits distributed by Kordon. In my not so humble opinion, they are by far the best kits available.

I'd not really worry about the nitrates until they are some where in the neighborhood of 300 with the fish you have, while you try to get
everything else straightened out. When the plants get over their
transplant shock, they will help with the nitrates, and regular water
changes will also help. Don't forget to test your tap water from time to time to get a baseline measurement before it goes into your tank. If you have high nitrates there, you will have high nitrates in your tank. In theory, your tap water should not be over 10 for nitrates, but all water companies comply with this standard yet.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23603 From: hazlet3738 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Help with Silver Dollars
I need some advice from someone in this group. I have a 45 gallon
freshwater tank. I have 5 angel fish and I did have 7 Silver
dollars. The Silver Dollars have started dying off. I am down to two
now. I had the water tested twice at my local fish store. Anyone got
any suggestions as to what is wrong with just the Silver Dollars and
not the Angels?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23604 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Lethargic New Fish
What are your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and any other test
results? Since your tank is new, you need to know what is going on before
and after adding fish. Your tank may not have been fully cycled and ready
for fish (or more fish) yet so you could have elevated ammonia/nitrite
levels which is causing the fish to be stressed and can permanently injure
or kill them if the levels are too high. If you do not have test kits, you
need to get a Master Test Kit so you can have these numbers readily
available when needed. My blog (in sig) has an article called "Everybody
needs a good Master Test Kit" which covers several of the readily available
kits out there.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lethargic New Fish

Hi Everyone,

I just posted a question (See "Cloudy Water"), but I have another question.
I bought three large Danio fish today. Since I put them in the tank, they
just float right next to each other at the bottom and stare out of the tank
in the same direction. They don't seem to want to swim around much, unless
they see me come up to the tank. Is something wrong, or is this normal
behavior for fish when they enter a new aquarium? I'm concerned that
something isn't quite right. Is there something wrong with the water
temperature? I've been taking readings, and the temperature is between 76-80
degrees. Thanks.

- Jim "Tropical Fish Newbie"


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/963 - Release Date: 8/20/2007
5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23605 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Light Usage
Hi,

I have a new 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish tank and am wondering
how much I should keep the light on in it. I work 9-5 every day, so I
am concerned about leaving the light on while I am away from home. I
assume the fish will thrive even if the light is off during the hours
that I am away? If there is a specific routine I should be using,
please let me know. Thanks!

- Fish Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23606 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Lethargic New Fish
Lenny,

Thanks for your response. I did purchase a test kit,
which I used to test the water after I put the fish
in. The levels seem alright, although the alkaline
level was off a bit. I put the fish in yesterday and
they were a bit lethargic for most of the evening.
This morning, however, they seemed to be in better
form. All three were swimming around the tank like
normal. I'll definitely read your blog. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23607 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
Hey rj all you have to remember is that you need thelight on about 8 to 10 hours a day thats it, just remember that fish need a day and a night cycle. No paticular time just try to be consistent with the way you turn them on and off
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23608 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Help with Silver Dollars
Could be overstocked and undersized tank? The five angelfish would be a
full bioload on a 45G tank, IMO... if it was also well planted. The Silver
Dollars get much too big for a 45G and could be getting overly stressed due
to being cramped. Stress causes immune system issues which makes fish
succumb to issues they would otherwise be able to handle.

http://fish.mongabay.com/angelfish.htm (scroll down to bottom half)

http://fish.mongabay.com/serrasalminae.htm (scroll down to middle section)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hazlet3738
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with Silver Dollars

I need some advice from someone in this group. I have a 45 gallon freshwater
tank. I have 5 angel fish and I did have 7 Silver dollars. The Silver
Dollars have started dying off. I am down to two now. I had the water tested
twice at my local fish store. Anyone got any suggestions as to what is wrong
with just the Silver Dollars and not the Angels?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/963 - Release Date: 8/20/2007
5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23609 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
8 hours of light is fine. Remember that in nature, fish have 12 hours of
complete darkness each night. With my lighting, I try to mimic nature. The
room is partly lit by the rising sun ambient lighting. Then I turn on a
regular room light around 730am. I turn on the tank lights right before I
leave for work. When I get home 10 hours later, I turn on a room light and
turn off the tank lights. Then by 7-8pm, I turn off the room light and
maybe have my TV on for a while (moonlight??? LOL)

It's not great to go from complete darkness to the bright tank lights as
this startles the fish. It's probably not good to go from complete bright
lights to total darkness either. If you could put your tank on a timer and
a lamp on a timer to come on an hour before and an hour before/after your
tank lights timer. This would also work on weekends or when you are away
from the tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Tank Light Usage

Hi,

I have a new 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish tank and am wondering how
much I should keep the light on in it. I work 9-5 every day, so I am
concerned about leaving the light on while I am away from home. I assume the
fish will thrive even if the light is off during the hours that I am away?
If there is a specific routine I should be using, please let me know.
Thanks!

- Fish Newbie



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/963 - Release Date: 8/20/2007
5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23610 From: kate hardy Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Hi Steve,
It does have the numbers, hence the reason I was able to provide them, but it doesn't have information as to what numbers are correct for which type of tank. For example it says 0-40 on Nitrates is safe and 0-25 is softwater, but I should be paying attention to exactly what the readings mean other than just safe or dangerous right? I apologize for being such a dummy about this stuff. You'd think after keeping fish and reptiles my whole life I'd know better.
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

I think you might need to change test kits if it gives measurements as safe or unsafe. You really need the numbers. Tough to find, but the best kits are distributed by Kordon under the Aqua-Tru label.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed on a planted tank)

Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by the chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where the chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be paying more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of what I need to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow or would like to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far as ratios and ph, that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate

Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23611 From: kate hardy Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Hi Noah,
Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice pictures though!
Kate

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(






---------------------------------
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23612 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Thanks for your input, everyone. I did a baseline test on just water
out of my tap (city supplied water), and it had a nitrate level of
0.5, which I think I can live with (but can my fish?) It also STILL
said I had 2.5 for ammonia! Doesn't this mean these tests are bogus?
How can there be that much ammonia in water that I might (but
certainly don't) drink? Should I see about getting a shop to test my
water for me? Can I trust it when it tells me all other parameters
are fine? Should I just sit back and make daily water changes while
waiting for the cycle to complete?
>
> Hi Noah,
> Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
pictures though!
> Kate
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
> changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
what's on, when.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23613 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Thank you very much, Kate! :)

> Hi Noah,
> Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
pictures though!
> Kate
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
what's on, when.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23614 From: friendtoallfish Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
Thanks to everyone for the valueable information. I ended up
removing her before they spawned. He lost intrest in the bubblenest
and she lost her spawning bars and developed fear bars. He had
chased and nipped her so bad that all she would do would be lay on
her side on the bottom. She wouldn't even move when he came at her.
So I'm gonna let her heal and recover for awhile and maybe try again
later.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
> I have had mine take a few days. Just make sure she has plenty of
hiding
> spaces. Give them a few days and then separate them. Try
seperating them with
> the female in the males tank. Try this place for answers
_International Betta
> Congress_ (http://www.ibcbettas.org/) they should have member
sites or other
> places for info.
>
> Joey
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-
new AOL at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23615 From: bethmlucas@cox.net Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: breeding bettas
Why are you breeding them? Poor girl, I feel so bad for her.

---- friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone for the valueable information. I ended up
> removing her before they spawned. He lost intrest in the bubblenest
> and she lost her spawning bars and developed fear bars. He had
> chased and nipped her so bad that all she would do would be lay on
> her side on the bottom. She wouldn't even move when he came at her.
> So I'm gonna let her heal and recover for awhile and maybe try again
> later.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
> >
> > I have had mine take a few days. Just make sure she has plenty of
> hiding
> > spaces. Give them a few days and then separate them. Try
> seperating them with
> > the female in the males tank. Try this place for answers
> _International Betta
> > Congress_ (http://www.ibcbettas.org/) they should have member
> sites or other
> > places for info.
> >
> > Joey
> >
> >
> >
> > ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-
> new AOL at
> > http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23616 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Noah honestly you should invest in some sort fo ion exchage resin in your filter you will not have anymore problem I guarantee

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: Thanks for your input, everyone. I did a baseline test on just water
out of my tap (city supplied water), and it had a nitrate level of
0.5, which I think I can live with (but can my fish?) It also STILL
said I had 2.5 for ammonia! Doesn't this mean these tests are bogus?
How can there be that much ammonia in water that I might (but
certainly don't) drink? Should I see about getting a shop to test my
water for me? Can I trust it when it tells me all other parameters
are fine? Should I just sit back and make daily water changes while
waiting for the cycle to complete?
>
> Hi Noah,
> Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
pictures though!
> Kate
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
> changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
what's on, when.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






---------------------------------
Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23617 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Cloudy how? Is it a grey/white cloudy, a green cloudy, can you see particles? A little better description here can help home in on a cause and a solution.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water

Hi Everyone,

I purchased a 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish aquarium a week ago. I
treated the water then, took a sample to my local pet shop today,
received the green light to purchase fish, and bought three large
Danios. The fish seem to be doing alright right now, but I am concerned
about something. The water seems to be a bit cloudy. Is this normal or
a problem? Shouldn't the water be clear after circulating for a week?

- Jim



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23618 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Google comes up with nothing when I search the title you give. Either it is not available on line or that is not an exact title.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 9:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] water parameters

The New York State manual on wastewater volume II

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Where did you come up with the numbers you quote for alkalinity vs.
ammonia? Nowhere in my reading have I seen anything like that. pH does
play a role in the toxicity of ammonia to critters. But no literature
has drawn a conclusion such as yours that breaking down ammonia depends
upon the alkalinity of the water (a measurement different from pH).
Ammonia is not broken down by alkalinity, it is digested by bacteria
that produce nitrites, and other bacteria eat nitrites and produce
nitrate.

Please do give me a source for your statement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best
I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use
it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants
they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking
Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you
should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the
plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort
CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the
excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others.
Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(





---------------------------------
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Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23619 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Most people who keep aquaria have stable pH so alkalinity is not an issue. If they do not, that means they have been messing with the pH to try to change it to keep whatever fish they feel needs a lower pH than their water gives them. Therefore it is a non-issue so far as most people are concerned. Also there are a number of bacteria that perform the work of converting nitrogenous materials. Each species having a range within it lives and works.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 9:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Waste water operation in an extended aeration wastewater plant in the reactor (open oval shaped basin w/ trains of wheel type rotors for aeration and mixing) is set up just like an aquarium. The breakdown is like this : filters(clarifiers, return pump, and final )+the aquarium( the reactor, and the influent:i.e. raw)+the fishkeeper( the waste pump,i.e.water changes).alkalinity is waters ability to hold ph. Its determined by carbonate hardness. When alkalinity is low this makes the water unstable ph wise and the ph can really jump up or down on you.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: Where did you come up with the numbers you quote for alkalinity vs.
ammonia? Nowhere in my reading have I seen anything like that. pH does
play a role in the toxicity of ammonia to critters. But no literature
has drawn a conclusion such as yours that breaking down ammonia depends
upon the alkalinity of the water (a measurement different from pH).
Ammonia is not broken down by alkalinity, it is digested by bacteria
that produce nitrites, and other bacteria eat nitrites and produce
nitrate.

Please do give me a source for your statement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 5:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water parameters

Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the best
I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone needs to use
it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as for the plants
they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the water may be lacking
Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a rule of thumb you
should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as for the Nitrates the
plants should be consuming alot of this you may need to add some sort
CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby grow taking up the
excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to you and others.
Thanks Richard

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4

Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after'). I
also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps the
phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because they're
the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels are
top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water change
this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but the
nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test strips
('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity of
these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
parameters as of an hour ago:

Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
Nitrite=10.0 (")
dH=25-75 (")
Chlorine-0 (")
Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
pH=7.0 (")

I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear enough.
Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of newbie
mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
fish. :(





---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23620 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
CO2 is not absolutely necessary to grow plants. CO2 injection is a
relatively new concept in aquarium keeping, and can be overdone. Prior
to the introduction of CO2, many people kept planted tanks without any
problems whatsoever. Plants only utilize CO2 when they are in the
presence of light. All other times they produce it.

Don't worry about CO2 now. Just try to get the basics down, so you know
what you are doing. If you feel the need to experiment with CO2 after
that, feel free to read up on it and try it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: water parameters

I have iron enriched substrate, with a thin layer of gravel on top of
that, So the iron shouldn't be an issue, but is a Co2 device really
neccessary in a 10 gal. tank? I realize the plants change everything,
but I thought filtration would be enough. I'm not sure I understand
the whole Co2 thing. There are diffusers and generators and reactors
and controllers and I don't know what-all. Can somenone explain it to
me, or point me to an article that will? Thanks again! :)
>
> Hey Noah try this stuff called Purigen its Made by Seachem its the
best I've seen at making the water great, I am for real everyone
needs to use it or either Hypersorb which is also made by Seachem, as
for the plants they look like they need some Iron and perhaps the
water may be lacking Enough alkalinity to break down the ammonia as a
rule of thumb you should have 7.1 mg/l(ppm) alka to 1 mg/l ammonia as
for the Nitrates the plants should be consuming alot of this you may
need to add some sort CO2 device to help the plant breath and thereby
grow taking up the excess Nitrates. I hope this can be of some use to
you and others. Thanks Richard
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote: http://
pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
> changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
You really should not be getting an ammonia reading from your tap water.
If you have municipal water, you can probably find the latest test
results they have by going online, and see what you can expect to find
your water to test out at. If it is way out of line, either your test
kits are a problem, or the water has a problem and you should speak with
your water folk.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 3:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: water parameters

Thanks for your input, everyone. I did a baseline test on just water
out of my tap (city supplied water), and it had a nitrate level of
0.5, which I think I can live with (but can my fish?) It also STILL
said I had 2.5 for ammonia! Doesn't this mean these tests are bogus?
How can there be that much ammonia in water that I might (but
certainly don't) drink? Should I see about getting a shop to test my
water for me? Can I trust it when it tells me all other parameters
are fine? Should I just sit back and make daily water changes while
waiting for the cycle to complete?
>
> Hi Noah,
> Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
pictures though!
> Kate
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
> gallon (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
> changes I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23622 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Steve,

Good point. The water appears to be a whitish cloudy,
but I cannot see any particles. It isn't significantly
cloudy, just slight whitish cloudy. Could it be that I
didn't allow the water in the tank to cycle long
enough? I let it cycle for about a week, which the
recommendation of my local pet store.

I have another question regarding water temperature.
I've been checking the temperature off and on, and the
reading is about 80 degrees. I don't want to cook my
fish, so I am wondering if I can lower the temperature
a bit without causing too much stress to the fish. Do
you have a suggestion on this issue? Thanks.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Cloudy how? Is it a grey/white cloudy, a green
> cloudy, can you see particles? A little better
> description here can help home in on a cause and a
> solution.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
> rjames1973
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I purchased a 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish
> aquarium a week ago. I
> treated the water then, took a sample to my local
> pet shop today,
> received the green light to purchase fish, and
> bought three large
> Danios. The fish seem to be doing alright right now,
> but I am concerned
> about something. The water seems to be a bit cloudy.
> Is this normal or
> a problem? Shouldn't the water be clear after
> circulating for a week?
>
> - Jim
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23623 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
what was in the tank when you allowed it to cycle. I know when I have cycled
tanks in the past I have had cloudy water.





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23624 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
The only things that were in the tank were water
(treated), two plastic plants (washed), a small tank
ornament (washed), and gravel (washed). I let the
water cycle for exactly one week before putting the
fish in.

- Jim

--- joesbirds@... wrote:

> what was in the tank when you allowed it to cycle. I
> know when I have cycled
> tanks in the past I have had cloudy water.
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** Get a sneak
> peek of the all-new AOL at
> http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23625 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
That is probably why you have cloudy water. You need to have something to
start the cycle. Ie fish waste. In the future I would probably start off with on
or two hardy fish and then start building up stock levels in the tank.

Joey



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23626 From: ipartyforfun Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Our dog has brought in fleas and we have 6 tanks. What is the safest
way to spray for fleas and not harm the fish. I have heard that I
need to cover up the tanks with a blanket and turn off the lights and
pump then spray or bomb.

Is this what to do and does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for a
safer product to use?

Don't know if it makes a difference but I have a 100, 2 55's, 2 30's
and a hex 30 tanks.

Thanks a bunch

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23627 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23628 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
I'll send you a copy free of charge if you'd like they really are good, I have alot of them.. its really just like kinda good reference material..and I do wastewater anyway..I like to try some of the same method that I utilize at work for control my microorganism population at optium condition. wastewater bugs can be just as picky to water condition as any other aquatic organism. There are alot of books relating to extended areation treatment plant but hell I'll hook you up with a copy and I'll through in some other reference material that ca kinda be carried over to fish keeping. Sorry so long winded.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23629 From: rjames1973 Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Fish Stores in the DC Area?
Hi,

Could someone suggest a good fish store in the Northern Virginia/DC
area? I'm not talking about the superstores (i.e., PETCO, Petsmart),
I'm looking for a small "mom and pop" store where the staff actually
care about fish and will give you good advice. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23630 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Your right steve most of the time alkalinity is not an issue,however if ph fluccuation are your problem it should be the first parameter affected.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23631 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
http://eebookstore.com/pd_aeration.cfm

http://eebookstore.com/pd_biological.cfm

these aren't the books I have at work but the are very indepth on the subject I was stating earlier, Sorry steve if it seems as though I am being a know it all. I would like everybody to understand it.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23632 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
You have ammonia in your tap water because of the chloramine that is likely
used by your treatment facility. Chloramine is made by binding chlorine and
ammonia and it's much more stabile and lasts much longer than chlorine. I
end up with an ammonia reading of around 0.5ppm after using my dechlor
product to break the bind. Your nitrate level of only 0.5ppm is really
nothing. Most FW fish can handle up to 20-40ppm for most of their lives
although it's always better for them to try and keep nitrates lower.

The downside of making daily PWC's if your tank isn't fully cycled is that
you are adding a constant supply of 2.5ppm of ammonia plus whatever ammonia
your fish are excreting. You should probably be using a product like Prime
which will make the ammonia non-toxic... or if your pH is around 7.0 or
lower, then the ammonia becomes much less dangerous at higher levels. If
your pH is 8.0, then you should strive to keep your ammonia below 0.5ppm.
This site has more details on ammonia/ph/temperature effects.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

This is why I stress so heavily for folks to fishless cycle
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html their
tanks so they do not put their fish through the stress of cycling with fish
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: water parameters

Thanks for your input, everyone. I did a baseline test on just water out of
my tap (city supplied water), and it had a nitrate level of 0.5, which I
think I can live with (but can my fish?) It also STILL said I had 2.5 for
ammonia! Doesn't this mean these tests are bogus?
How can there be that much ammonia in water that I might (but certainly
don't) drink? Should I see about getting a shop to test my water for me? Can
I trust it when it tells me all other parameters are fine? Should I just sit
back and make daily water changes while waiting for the cycle to complete?
>
> Hi Noah,
> Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
pictures though!
> Kate
>
> Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
> <http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/>
browse/38b4
>
> Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10 gallon
> (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
I
> also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'. Also,
> 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
the
> phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
they're
> the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
are
> top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
change
> this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
the
> nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at a
> consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water changes
> I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
strips
> ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
of
> these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank, their
> color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will not
> introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My water
> parameters as of an hour ago:
>
> Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> Nitrite=10.0 (")
> dH=25-75 (")
> Chlorine-0 (")
> Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> pH=7.0 (")
>
> I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
enough.
> Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
newbie
> mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with starter
> fish. :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
what's on, when.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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5:44 PM



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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23633 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Jim,

I have no clue why some pet stores still tell people that running their tank
for a few days or a week is "cycling" the tank. Running a tank with no
source of ammonia does absolutely nothing as far as "cycling" the tank in
the context which we use in fishkeeping which is "The Nitrogen Cycle". You
should read up on this very important part of fishkeeping. You can go to my
blog and on the right side, I have a blog called "A to Z of Fishkeeping For
Beginners" and there is lots of information on "cycling" (fishless cycling
is recommended but many people get stuck with "cycling with fish" and there
are links on how to safely do this for your fish as well... but it's a lot
more work than fishless cycling and it puts your fish through a lot of
unnecessary stress).

The temperature of the tank depends on the type of fish. One of the best
sources of accurate profiles on fish is http://fish.mongabay.com and you can
search for the profiles on your fish and read all about their preferred
water parameters and much more about your fish. Another simple way to find
the profile is to do a simple Google search with your fish 'common name' or
'species' and the word 'mongabay' and Google will almost always return with
your fish profile listed as number one or two on the list.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water

Steve,

Good point. The water appears to be a whitish cloudy, but I cannot see any
particles. It isn't significantly cloudy, just slight whitish cloudy. Could
it be that I didn't allow the water in the tank to cycle long enough? I let
it cycle for about a week, which the recommendation of my local pet store.

I have another question regarding water temperature.
I've been checking the temperature off and on, and the reading is about 80
degrees. I don't want to cook my fish, so I am wondering if I can lower the
temperature a bit without causing too much stress to the fish. Do you have a
suggestion on this issue? Thanks.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> >
wrote:

> Cloudy how? Is it a grey/white cloudy, a green cloudy, can you see
> particles? A little better description here can help home in on a
> cause and a solution.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of
> rjames1973
> Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 7:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I purchased a 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish aquarium a week ago.
> I treated the water then, took a sample to my local pet shop today,
> received the green light to purchase fish, and bought three large
> Danios. The fish seem to be doing alright right now, but I am
> concerned about something. The water seems to be a bit cloudy.
> Is this normal or
> a problem? Shouldn't the water be clear after circulating for a week?
>
> - Jim
>
>

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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23634 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
The white cloudiness is often related to a bacterial bloom, usually the good
nitrifying bacteria but it can also be related to a bad bacteria bloom.
People really need a master test kit so you will know your ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH, KH and GH levels... especially when cycling with fish, so your
fish do not suffer too much.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water

what was in the tank when you allowed it to cycle. I know when I have cycled
tanks in the past I have had cloudy water.


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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23635 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Please people... DO NOT CYCLE WITH FISH.

It's so much easier to use plain ammonia or a product like Bio-Spira, rather
than putting some poor fish through the torture of cycling with fish. You
can fishless cycle the tank with 5.0ppm of plain ammonia and be able to add
a nearly full bioload of fish to the tank at one time instead of taking
months to fully stock your tank adding a couple of fish at a time and
possibly introducing ich or other opportunistic pathogens.

Besides, new fish should always be quarantined so you would have to have two
tanks running... one with a couple of poor fish going through the nitrogen
cycle and then the Q-tank for your new fish until you are sure they are
healthy enough to add to your display tank. Why go through all this trouble
for you and your fish.

Just do a fishless cycle for a couple of weeks while you research your fish
or purchase Bio-Spira and add your fish the next day.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water

That is probably why you have cloudy water. You need to have something to
start the cycle. Ie fish waste. In the future I would probably start off
with on or two hardy fish and then start building up stock levels in the
tank.

Joey

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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23636 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Use boric acid (white powder, also marketed under the retail name
"Roach-Pruf") in your carpeting and vacuum up the excess. It will kill the
fleas and will not affect your fish as long as your air pumps are not
sitting on the carpeting. Or use one of the many bio-spot type products
that you can treat your dog and it will kill all of the fleas, etc. Two
well known products in the USA are Advantix and Frontline. They can be
purchased from http://www.DrsFosterSmith.com which has a guaranteed lowest
price and very low $3.99 shipping.

If you insist on "bombing", then you should cover the tank, filters, pumps,
etc. with plastic and use masking tape to tape the edges down on the bottom
sides of the glass to basically seal the fish and tanks inside the plastic
bubble. If you have enough airline tubing to put the air pumps outside,
that would be even better as it would be pumping fresh air into your tanks
which would create an increase pressure inside the plastic covering which
would further keep any of the pesticides out.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 7:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas

Our dog has brought in fleas and we have 6 tanks. What is the safest way to
spray for fleas and not harm the fish. I have heard that I need to cover up
the tanks with a blanket and turn off the lights and pump then spray or
bomb.

Is this what to do and does anyone have any ideas or suggestions for a safer
product to use?

Don't know if it makes a difference but I have a 100, 2 55's, 2 30's and a
hex 30 tanks.

Thanks a bunch

Jenn



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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23637 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Cloudy Water
Just clarifying the misuse of the word "cycle" again. Running a tank is not
cycling the tank as far as the term is used in fishkeeping for "The Nitrogen
Cycle".

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 6:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cloudy Water

The only things that were in the tank were water (treated), two plastic
plants (washed), a small tank ornament (washed), and gravel (washed). I let
the water cycle for exactly one week before putting the fish in.

- Jim

--- joesbirds@... <mailto:joesbirds%40aol.com> wrote:

> what was in the tank when you allowed it to cycle. I know when I have
> cycled tanks in the past I have had cloudy water.
>
>
>
>
>

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5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23638 From: mkorday Date: 8/21/2007
Subject: Re: Help with Silver Dollars
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hazlet3738" <bakers@...> wrote:
>
> I need some advice from someone in this group. I have a 45 gallon
> freshwater tank. I have 5 angel fish and I did have 7 Silver
> dollars. The Silver Dollars have started dying off. I am down to two
> now. I had the water tested twice at my local fish store. Anyone
got
> any suggestions as to what is wrong with just the Silver Dollars and
> not the Angels?
>
Whom so ever .....
see the dollars need soft water and lot of veggies angles are
aggressive. dollars are shy fish .. dying dollar
do they show any symptoms ??? it is difficult to guess without
symptoms. pl elaborate on your dollar fish... size their behaviour,
fish food. etc.

milind
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23639 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Light Usage
If you have plants in the tank, then you should provide 10-12 hours of
lighting a day. If you do not have plants, then you can use the light
only when you are around to view the fish. Ambient light will provide
them with enough light otherwise.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Tank Light Usage

Hi,

I have a new 20 gallon freshwater tropical fish tank and am wondering
how much I should keep the light on in it. I work 9-5 every day, so I
am concerned about leaving the light on while I am away from home. I
assume the fish will thrive even if the light is off during the hours
that I am away? If there is a specific routine I should be using,
please let me know. Thanks!

- Fish Newbie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23640 From: Debra Melton Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about tanks and spraying for fleas
Jenn,

Depending on where you live you might want to call a local exterminator to
come in and spray. I found it to be more cost effective, less toxic, and
longer lasting than the "bombs" you can purchase at the local grocery
store. We have a huge problem with fleas in Mississippi and I only have the
local guy out once or twice a year. He sprays around the house as well for
about $30 a visit. The chemical he uses is not toxic to our pets, (dogs,
cats, fish) but it works very well on the fleas. I also use "Frontline" on
all our four legged kids.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23641 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Lenny, you are the man! I got hold of my city's water report, and
they do indeed add chloramine. I have a bottle of ammonia, chlorine
and cholramine detoxifier, and it has done wonders already. I wasn't
really worried about the other levels, as far as adding another fish.
I do know about the higher pH making the ammonia more toxic, but
thanks for the heads up, and thank you for finding my problem! By the
way, I realize now I should have gone with a fishless cycle, as you
pointed out. Ah, live and learn...


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You have ammonia in your tap water because of the chloramine that
is likely
> used by your treatment facility. Chloramine is made by binding
chlorine and
> ammonia and it's much more stabile and lasts much longer than
chlorine. I
> end up with an ammonia reading of around 0.5ppm after using my
dechlor
> product to break the bind. Your nitrate level of only 0.5ppm is
really
> nothing. Most FW fish can handle up to 20-40ppm for most of their
lives
> although it's always better for them to try and keep nitrates lower.
>
> The downside of making daily PWC's if your tank isn't fully cycled
is that
> you are adding a constant supply of 2.5ppm of ammonia plus whatever
ammonia
> your fish are excreting. You should probably be using a product
like Prime
> which will make the ammonia non-toxic... or if your pH is around
7.0 or
> lower, then the ammonia becomes much less dangerous at higher
levels. If
> your pH is 8.0, then you should strive to keep your ammonia below
0.5ppm.
> This site has more details on ammonia/ph/temperature effects.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> This is why I stress so heavily for folks to fishless cycle
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
their
> tanks so they do not put their fish through the stress of cycling
with fish
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishcycling.html.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: water parameters
>
> Thanks for your input, everyone. I did a baseline test on just
water out of
> my tap (city supplied water), and it had a nitrate level of 0.5,
which I
> think I can live with (but can my fish?) It also STILL said I had
2.5 for
> ammonia! Doesn't this mean these tests are bogus?
> How can there be that much ammonia in water that I might (but
certainly
> don't) drink? Should I see about getting a shop to test my water
for me? Can
> I trust it when it tells me all other parameters are fine? Should I
just sit
> back and make daily water changes while waiting for the cycle to
complete?
> >
> > Hi Noah,
> > Wish I could help you but I'm sortof in the same boat. Very nice
> pictures though!
> > Kate
> >
> > Noah Burge <noahburge2b@> wrote:
> > http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/
> > <http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/>
> browse/38b4
> >
> > Recently (a few days ago) I put a bunch of live plants in my 10
gallon
> > (see photos; first one is a 'before' the rest are 'after').
> I
> > also got tired of witing and used a cycling chemical 'Cycle'.
Also,
> > 'Neutral Regulator' which did indeed make my pH 7.0, but perhaps
> the
> > phosphor buffers aren't good?!) I only mention these because
> they're
> > the only things different, but now my nitrate and nitrite levels
> are
> > top of the scale (nitrate=40 nitrite 10.0!) I did a 25% water
> change
> > this morning, which has brought the nitrate back down a bit, but
> the
> > nitrite is still through the roof. Also , my ammonia has been at
a
> > consistent 2.5 for a week and a half, no matter how many water
changes
> > I do. I'm starting to doubt the accuracy of these test
> strips
> > ('Quick Dip' by Jungle. Anyone have any opinion about the validity
> of
> > these?) My guppies seem happier than ever in a planted tank,
their
> > color is excellent imho, but they are guppies after all. I will
not
> > introduce anything else until I am sure everything is ok. My
water
> > parameters as of an hour ago:
> >
> > Nitrate=40 (same as this morning)
> > Nitrite=10.0 (")
> > dH=25-75 (")
> > Chlorine-0 (")
> > Alkalinity buffer=0-40 (")
> > pH=7.0 (")
> >
> > I guess this post is rather convoluted, but I hope it's clear
> enough.
> > Any advice at all is GREATLY appreciated. I have made a lot of
> newbie
> > mistakes already; I followed bad advice about cycling with
starter
> > fish. :(
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see
> what's on, when.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/963 - Release Date:
8/20/2007
> 5:44 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/963 - Release Date:
8/20/2007
> 5:44 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23642 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Kate,

Sorry to be a bit late with this reply. I am on vacation and handling
business mail first, and other mail if I have time.

The numbers do mean something. What really is important, though, is what
the numbers are over a period of time. For example, you can expect to
see, without water changes or plants, that the nitrates will rise
following a certain increase over smaller increments of time. With the
regular water changes you should be doing, however, the number should
remain relatively stable, if measured at the same point during your
cycle of the water change. A sharp increase would mean that you should
be looking for a cause.

The relationship between various parameters is also important, as one
can affect another, sometimes to the detriment of your fish.

When you are asking about a problem, and say that this test was normal
and that test showed a safe level, we have no idea what that means. If
the first was pH at 7.5 and the second ammonia at 0.5, well, we would
have cause for concern and ask to find out more about why you have
measurable ammonia in your tank at all. The high pH would mean that any
level of ammonia is more toxic to your fish than would a pH of, say,
6.8.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s (
was - Help needed on a planted tank)

Hi Steve,
It does have the numbers, hence the reason I was able to provide them,
but it doesn't have information as to what numbers are correct for which
type of tank. For example it says 0-40 on Nitrates is safe and 0-25 is
softwater, but I should be paying attention to exactly what the readings
mean other than just safe or dangerous right? I apologize for being such
a dummy about this stuff. You'd think after keeping fish and reptiles my
whole life I'd know better.
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

I think you might need to change test kits if it gives measurements as
safe or unsafe. You really need the numbers. Tough to find, but the best
kits are distributed by Kordon under the Aqua-Tru label.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was -
Help needed on a planted tank)

Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by
the chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where
the chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my
parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be
paying more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of
what I need to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow
or would like to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far
as ratios and ph, that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate

Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23643 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
You are not being a know-it-all. Giving references is good, so others can look and validate what you have said.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: water parameters

http://eebookstore.com/pd_aeration.cfm

http://eebookstore.com/pd_biological.cfm

these aren't the books I have at work but the are very indepth on the subject I was stating earlier, Sorry steve if it seems as though I am being a know it all. I would like everybody to understand it.



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23644 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Kate, Didn't expect not to get a reply back to your post sooner
than this, and I regret that I couldn't do so. I did type you a
lengthy reply yesterday morning, going into much detail, but my
computor locked up and of course I lost all I was working on. Hope
you understand that I could not re-type it due to time constraints.

So, okay, as I more or less surmised you're using all (100%) R/O
water. Since you're getting some appreciable readings (total
hardness -- 75 ppm, Total Alkalinity -- 180) in your test results of
this water, unless these results are faulty it would seem possible
that the semi-permeable membrane in the unit is starting to allow
some mineral content to come through along with the purified water.
Then too, your water may be picking up some minerals from the
substrate. Either way, at least this is better for your fish, and
you have some buffering capacity.

I understand your reluctance concerning testing the tap water when
you were specifically instructed not to consider using it. As for
the tapwater possibly being soft; it can't be any softer than R/O
water since that type of water should be completely lacking in
minerals. As I mentioned though, its possible your R/O unit may be
faulty (or your tests might be faulty). As for your question -- why
would you think soft water is bad? Soft water is fine for many
community type fish, although it really depends on what you are
keeping. A "community" aquarium is just that -- a mixture of
different types of fish, possibly with somewhat differing
requirements.

In general, to keep most community fish happy, the water should be
anywhere between moderately soft (80 ppm hardness) and moderately
hard (120 ppm hardness), although a little more one way or the other
is nothing to be concerned about. You should just avoid the
extremes. There are some Killiefish hobbyists who insists on keeping
their African rainforest Killies in water of 5 ppm hardness -- this
is much less than 1 dGH. Your new Otocinclus will do just fine in 4
dGH water or in 20 dGH -- they just don't appreciate chemical
additives.

I believe somewhere you made a reference to Cichlids liking hard
water (you apparently have kept them in the recent past?). Note that
not all Cichlids like hard, alkaline water. While those coming from
the African Rift Lakes require very hard and very alkaline water, and
those from Central America doing best in somewhat hard, alkaline
water, those Cichlids coming from South American do not, unless
they're found on the West slope of the Andes; nor do the Cichlids
found in West Africa. The fish found in the Amazon River drainage
prefer soft, neutral - to - acid water. This holds true for the fish
from most of the drainage areas found on the East slope of the Andes.

Sorry to hear about your floods. A top floor is the preferred
location in those circumstances. Stay dry! Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> Sorry about that, I didn't mean to be so vague. I was using
entirely RO. I hadn't really even thought to test the tapwater since
A. Like you said I was adhering to advice, B. I've been told it's
softwater. Isn't that bad? and C. I've lived here 2 weeks out of the
3 months I've owned it as I've had 2 floods with disaster cleanup
taking forever. Radiant heat and cooling are great until someone
decides to puncture a line. Thank god I'm on the top floor!
> Thanks,
> Kate
>
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
> Hi Kate, Glad you found the R/O data informative. From
what you're
> relating as far as the "Aquarium guy" telling you to use R/O water
> only, for the the plants, and your taking him at his word, it does
> now seem more obvious to me that you've been using pure R/O water
> (even if you still haven't come right out and said that). There are
> still responders here who you're still leaving in the dark about
> this. Note that you may come across occasional mentions by other
> hobbyists saying they use R/O water. By this, they generally mean
> that while they use this water, they use it mixed (perhaps this is
> what your Aquarium guy meant?) There is an old saying in
> science: "nature abhors a vacuum." Pure water, devoid of any
> minerals and/or chemicals will slowly dissolve (etch) the glass in
> which it is stored.
>
> Your artesian well water might be great -- you'll just have to see
> how it tests out. Most often, water of this nature may be somewhat
> harder and more alkaline since being drawn from deep in the ground,
> it has all the more chance to come in contact with limestone-
bearing
> rock. Only testing will tell, but even if it tests to the extremes
> (excessively hard and alkaline), it might be made ideal when mixed
> with R/O water if it can't be used as obtained.
>
> I am more than a little surprised that you apparently have not
tested
> your tap water yet, as I was under the impression this is why you
> went to R/O water, but is understandable after learning you were
> directed to go to R/O water from the beginning. Do test your tap
> water; it just may be better than the artesian well water you have
in
> mind, even if you have to use a water conditioner. Depending on the
> comparative ease of using these two sources, if your tap water
tests
> good it would probably be the most convenient way to go when doing
> your weekly partial water changes. Glad to see by your post that
you
> do have an ammonia test kit. Ray
>
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> >
> > Your info on RO water was great. Any thoughts on the artesian
well
> I mentioned in other emails? Of course I'll test it first. And I
> forgot to test the ammonia yesterday. I'll do that today. I'll
check
> my tap water too. I think I actually might have soft water in this
> place. I just moved in. The hard water in slc was always great for
> cichlids that I've done in the past but when the Aquarium guy said
> use RO only for the plants I just took him at his word.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Kate
> >
> > Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@>
> wrote: Hi Kate, Please don't take
> the lack of response to your previous
> > post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
> > see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-
> ness.
> > We do always need as much information as possible in order to
have
> a
> > good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.
> >
> > As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using
> R/O
> > (Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since
> you
> > do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s),
> I'm
> > led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for
the
> > fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
> > total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using
> pure
> > R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
> > minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should
NEVER
> be
> > used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result
> in
> > an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
> > adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
> > this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
> > (dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
> > decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
> > leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
> > unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the
total "vacuum"
> of
> > minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
> > ability to control.
> >
> > The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth
> in
> > the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
> > situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use
> 100%
> > R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
> > quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
> > aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
> > mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
> > maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
> > (hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental
> scenario
> > with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your
tank
> > having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
> > although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
> > mentioned.
> >
> > Included with this value, and added to your other parameters,
> should
> > be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help
> but
> > notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely
> important
> > for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
> > times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be
monitored
> > regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept
aware
> of
> > any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
> > they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside
> the
> > somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
> > humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
> > belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up
> and
> > coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for
> help
> > in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a
> busy
> > schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear
> daily,
> > just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
> > information was the culprit.
> > > To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I
> mentioned
> > in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
> > aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live
> plants
> > in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
> > with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
> > http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do
> the
> > same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need
to
> > list and your email provided me just that. So without further
ado,
> > and please let me know if I am missing anything you
> require...........
> > >
> > > Kate's tank
> > > Size-10 gallon
> > > Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was
> started
> > with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
> > >
> > > Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
> > >
> > > Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
> > liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In
> the
> > case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or
> twice
> > a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants.
> I'm
> > sure over-fertilization was a problem.
> > >
> > > Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a
> Red
> > Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
> > >
> > > Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
> > fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
> > hours)
> > >
> > > Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
> > not come named but through online research I believe I have
> > identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum),
Dwarf
> > Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
> > Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The
Java
> > Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they
> don't
> > look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining,
I
> > was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
> > plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves
> seem
> > to be decomposing: even the new ones.
> > >
> > > Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus
> (which
> > I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5
snails
> > which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if
> you
> > are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown,
> conical,
> > shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info
> on
> > them.
> > >
> > > Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> > > Nitrate-0
> > > Nitrite-0
> > > Total Hardness-75
> > > Total Chlorine-0
> > > Total Alkalinity-180
> > > pH-7.2
> > >
> > > I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
> > await any advice any of you might have!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Kate
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve Szabo <steve@> wrote:
> > > Kate,
> > >
> > > There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to
> your
> > > message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with
a
> few
> > > extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
> > over 2
> > > hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted
> items
> > to
> > > write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many
> messages,
> > I'd
> > > not have the time to reply to yours.
> > >
> > > Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a
> message is
> > > ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get
> an
> > idea
> > > of who you are and your level of experience.
> > >
> > > Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one
> (s)
> > with
> > > the experience may not be around, or may not really have the
> time to
> > > reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1
> above.
> > > Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters
(You
> > love
> > > that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
> > >
> > > Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems
to
> be
> > > missing that would help those who can answer your question. I
> know
> > you
> > > posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not
> have
> > > much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> > > pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well.
> Also,
> > > there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey.
For
> > > example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
> > show 3,
> > > because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
> > range of
> > > your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
> > temperature,
> > > etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they
> were
> > > partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> > > absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
> using?
> > How
> > > are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is
> your
> > normal
> > > lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants
> don't
> > look
> > > so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> > > glasses?
> > >
> > > The more information you can give, the better the answers will
> be.
> > >
> > > One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your
> own
> > test
> > > kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to
somewhere
> to
> > have
> > > them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the
> tests
> > > yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what
> you
> > mean
> > > when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5
> or
> > 7.8?
> > > Very important information.
> > >
> > > I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and
> others
> > learn
> > > how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
> > stern in
> > > telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to
> give us
> > > something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
> > >
> > > If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the
> tank,
> > > need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought
> under
> > > control, and your plants may be going through some transplant
> shock.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Kate
> > > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New
> member
> > > intro/snail identification
> > >
> > > I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no
> one
> > > responded.
> > > Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved
> into a
> > > little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now
> live
> > > with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray
> Eel
> > > and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> > > Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
> > (Spearpoint
> > > Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> > > Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> > > tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles
> as
> > > well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never
delved
> > into
> > > a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does
> well
> > > I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have
> hanging
> > out
> > > in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted
> aquarium
> > > once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few
snails
> > > right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat
> algae.
> > They
> > > are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> > > throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside.
> It's
> > > quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> > > Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> > > Kate
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium.
I
> > figured
> > > > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > > > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had
> the
> > > > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look
> so
> > hot.
> > > > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank.
> I
> > have
> > > > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
> > section.
> > > > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of
my
> > condo
> > > > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's
> why
> > you
> > > > can see a lot in the photos.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > > > Kate
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from
someone
> > who knows.
> > > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
> user panel and lay it on us.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
user panel and lay it on us.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23645 From: Richard Haley Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: water parameters
Steve I appreciate your understanding. would u still like a copy of the wastewater manuals for future reference.

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: You are not being a know-it-all. Giving references is good, so others can look and validate what you have said.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Haley
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 8:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: water parameters

http://eebookstore.com/pd_aeration.cfm

http://eebookstore.com/pd_biological.cfm

these aren't the books I have at work but the are very indepth on the subject I was stating earlier, Sorry steve if it seems as though I am being a know it all. I would like everybody to understand it.

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23646 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Stores in the DC Area?
Probably the best one is SCALES at 744 Cloverly Street, Cloverly, MD.

http://www.scales-tfw.com/

You should also be able to get info on th ePotomac Valley Aquarium
Society from them as well.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of rjames1973
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 9:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Stores in the DC Area?

Hi,

Could someone suggest a good fish store in the Northern Virginia/DC
area? I'm not talking about the superstores (i.e., PETCO, Petsmart),
I'm looking for a small "mom and pop" store where the staff actually
care about fish and will give you good advice. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23647 From: Antony Dalton Date: 8/22/2007
Subject: RO units and water storage
I have a question for all you saltwater types out there with your own
RO water filter units: Can you store the water between water
changes? Does it go stale or start to grow stuff? I am thinking
about plumbing a unit to a regular pressurized household water storage
tank. The RO unit would slowly fill the tank, then I could take out
the 40 or so gallons I will need for water changes.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23648 From: Just ask me Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Elephantnose fish see with their chin
In complete darkness the animals can even distinguish dead organisms
from living ones at a distanceOriginating in Central Africa, Peters'
elephantnose fish (Gnathonemus petersii), finds its bearings by means of
weak electrical fields. Scientists from the University of Bonn have now
been able to show how well this works. In complete darkness the animals
can even distinguish the material of objects at a distance or dead
organisms from living ones. The results have now been published in the
Journal of Experimental Biology.The fish, which is as long as a cigar,
hovers with its head inclined, close to the gravel-covered bed. While it
swims forward slowly, its trunk-like elongated chin sweeps steadily from
right to left, always at a distance of a few millimetres from the
bottom.Read more at Marine animal news
<http://marineanimalnews.blogspot.com/> & view the fish at Videos of
blue waters <http://blue-water-video.blogspot.com/>



Chat at Beachchat
<http://www.freepowerboards.com/bluechatters/portal.php>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23649 From: jett07002 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Wher did the fish come from?
Hello, all:

Been reading the replies from Steve and Ray and I can't argue with
anything they said. These two people LOVE the hobby, I can tell. (It
takes one to know one, and I love it, too.) Haven't seen any postings
from Lenny lately.(?)

Anyway, I just wanted to stick my two cents in here, for what it's
worth, and make an observation. Everyone is concerned about where the
fish come from - meaning their natural habitat, but we can't forget
that a lot of these fish are now coming from farms and breeders around
the areas we live in. If not the immediate we are in, certainly far
away from the fish's natural environment. When you are buying new
fish, it's a good idea to find out if they were bred locally. Did the
breeder use anything to try to alter the water to the fishes liking?
Or did the breeder just use the water from the area as it is?

A lot of the "locally grown" fish are already acclimated to the area
water they were raised in from fry. If you are once again trying to
alter the water back to their "natural environments" we could really
be putting these fish through some unnecessary stress.

You may want to alter the water to the natural environment parameters
as much as possible because it stimulates the color or some other
reason, but if you're going to do this, it should be done S-L-O-W-L-Y!
Don't put your fish on a roller coaster ride.

Of course, if they are wild - coming from the natural environment -
the you would want to alter your water as best you can to the
parameters of where they came from. That's another point. If you are
tanking fish from a completely different kind of water than your
area, that's a lot of work to alter! Don't forget you have to do it
religiously with all the water changes, or the fish suffer.

joet
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23650 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley <lowjack989@...> wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx






---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23651 From: Jim Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Water Changes
Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a
fish tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with
three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then
bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store
salesman that I should wait about three more weeks before I perform a
slight water change, as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm
trying to determine if I should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent
water change. What is recommended in this case? Is there any special
equipment I should purchase to prepare for this process? Thanks for
helping out a newbie to this hobby!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23652 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Thanks Steve. I have posted numbers. I just meant, for my info, I felt like I should know more than just that the bottle says I'm "safe". I just posted today's reading although I forgot ammonia. Here are the ammonia readings.

My tap water
Between 0-.5
My tank water
0

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

Sorry to be a bit late with this reply. I am on vacation and handling
business mail first, and other mail if I have time.

The numbers do mean something. What really is important, though, is what
the numbers are over a period of time. For example, you can expect to
see, without water changes or plants, that the nitrates will rise
following a certain increase over smaller increments of time. With the
regular water changes you should be doing, however, the number should
remain relatively stable, if measured at the same point during your
cycle of the water change. A sharp increase would mean that you should
be looking for a cause.

The relationship between various parameters is also important, as one
can affect another, sometimes to the detriment of your fish.

When you are asking about a problem, and say that this test was normal
and that test showed a safe level, we have no idea what that means. If
the first was pH at 7.5 and the second ammonia at 0.5, well, we would
have cause for concern and ask to find out more about why you have
measurable ammonia in your tank at all. The high pH would mean that any
level of ammonia is more toxic to your fish than would a pH of, say,
6.8.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s (
was - Help needed on a planted tank)

Hi Steve,
It does have the numbers, hence the reason I was able to provide them,
but it doesn't have information as to what numbers are correct for which
type of tank. For example it says 0-40 on Nitrates is safe and 0-25 is
softwater, but I should be paying attention to exactly what the readings
mean other than just safe or dangerous right? I apologize for being such
a dummy about this stuff. You'd think after keeping fish and reptiles my
whole life I'd know better.
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Kate,

I think you might need to change test kits if it gives measurements as
safe or unsafe. You really need the numbers. Tough to find, but the best
kits are distributed by Kordon under the Aqua-Tru label.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was -
Help needed on a planted tank)

Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by
the chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where
the chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my
parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be
paying more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of
what I need to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow
or would like to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far
as ratios and ph, that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate

Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank
you have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.





---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23653 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We
also do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those
numbers and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned
and recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark
brown as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley <lowjack989@... <mailto:lowjack989%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx
<http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23654 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
I just posted a reply to Kate which answers most of your questions.

You should get a good Master Test Kit and start testing your water daily and
keeping a log and if you want, post a copy of your log so that we can look
at the numbers and give you more accurate information.

Your "pet store salesman" obviously doesn't know fish from a hole in his
head. There is much more than just pH which needs to be monitored and
analyzed... especially in the first few months that a tank is set up.

Read my blog on Master Test Kits (main link in my sig and then on the right
is the link to "Everybody needs a good Master Test Kit". You should
definitely have tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH but having GH and
KH are also very helpful. API sells a pretty good test kit which tests for
all of these things. You can usually find it online or at PetsMart.com for
under $20.00 and this will last you around a year or more. The local
PetsMart stores will match their online prices if you print out the page and
tell the cashier about the online price. I save 20-50% off shelf prices
this way.

While you are at my blog, also read the page called "A to Z of Fishkeeping
for Beginners" which has some very good resources to help you including two
different online tutorials that you can take which will help teach you about
"The Nitrogen Cycle" and many other very important parts of fishkeeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a fish
tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with three
tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then bought the
fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store salesman that I
should wait about three more weeks before I perform a slight water change,
as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm trying to determine if I
should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent water change. What is recommended
in this case? Is there any special equipment I should purchase to prepare
for this process? Thanks for helping out a newbie to this hobby!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23655 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Petco Plants
I was just at Petco and bought a pretty looking 8" Pongol
Sword "Chlorophytum Bichetii". After reading about it online, it seems
more like a terrarium plant than anything else. Apparently it can last
in an aquarium, without harming the biological balance of the aquarium.
Anyone had any luck with this plant or something similar? I know Petco
is not the choice place to get plants, but shipping them to my house is
dang near impossible and Petco is the only pet store within a 45 min
drive distance. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23656 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was - Help needed
Hi Kate,

Your tap is showing a small amount of ammonia as part of the chloramine
which is used to disinfect drinking water. Chloramine is made by binding
chlorine and ammonia.

Your tap water conditioner will break this bind and treat the chlorine to
neutralize it and some will also treat the ammonia but this small amount of
ammonia will also be easily converted by the nitrogen cycle in your
tank/filter. Fish from a fully stocked tank put out up to 5.0ppm of ammonia
each day which the filter and tank easily convert in a properly cycled tank.


Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was -
Help needed on a planted tank)

Thanks Steve. I have posted numbers. I just meant, for my info, I felt like
I should know more than just that the bottle says I'm "safe". I just posted
today's reading although I forgot ammonia. Here are the ammonia readings.

My tap water
Between 0-.5
My tank water
0

Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> > wrote:
Kate,

Sorry to be a bit late with this reply. I am on vacation and handling
business mail first, and other mail if I have time.

The numbers do mean something. What really is important, though, is what the
numbers are over a period of time. For example, you can expect to see,
without water changes or plants, that the nitrates will rise following a
certain increase over smaller increments of time. With the regular water
changes you should be doing, however, the number should remain relatively
stable, if measured at the same point during your cycle of the water change.
A sharp increase would mean that you should be looking for a cause.

The relationship between various parameters is also important, as one can
affect another, sometimes to the detriment of your fish.

When you are asking about a problem, and say that this test was normal and
that test showed a safe level, we have no idea what that means. If the first
was pH at 7.5 and the second ammonia at 0.5, well, we would have cause for
concern and ask to find out more about why you have measurable ammonia in
your tank at all. The high pH would mean that any level of ammonia is more
toxic to your fish than would a pH of, say, 6.8.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was -
Help needed on a planted tank)

Hi Steve,
It does have the numbers, hence the reason I was able to provide them, but
it doesn't have information as to what numbers are correct for which type of
tank. For example it says 0-40 on Nitrates is safe and 0-25 is softwater,
but I should be paying attention to exactly what the readings mean other
than just safe or dangerous right? I apologize for being such a dummy about
this stuff. You'd think after keeping fish and reptiles my whole life I'd
know better.
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> > wrote:
Kate,

I think you might need to change test kits if it gives measurements as safe
or unsafe. You really need the numbers. Tough to find, but the best kits are
distributed by Kordon under the Aqua-Tru label.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 5:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] H2O, mixing R.O. w/tap, Hardness & pH ?'s ( was -
Help needed on a planted tank)

Ok I'll stick with the Otos.

I'm having a bit of trouble with the test kit. I've always just gone by the
chart on the bottle and tried to keep my water in the range of where the
chart says "safe" other than adjusting hardness for cichlids. All my
parameters come up as safe on the bottle but I'm sure I need to be paying
more attention than that. I've been trying to find specifics of what I need
to know online but if anyone knows of a website I can follow or would like
to teach me a couple things on what to watch for, as far as ratios and ph,
that would be great!

Thanks!

Kate

Steve Szabo wrote:

Kate,

The otos are really about the only choice you have for the size of tank you
have. The Ancistrus (genus name) will grow too large for the tank.

---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
news, photos & more.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23657 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Petco Plants
Where are you located?

I occasionally buy plants online from sellers on Aquabid and Ebay and have had good luck and some great deals recently.

Last night through the mail I received 3 anubias @ $3.00 each.  Bought on ebay.

I tend to only buy Anubias, aponogetons, Java Moss, Java ferns as I keep moslty cichlids and they are pretty hard on plants.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: chanzyfitz88 <chanzy88@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 1:35 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Petco Plants






I was just at Petco and bought a pretty looking 8" Pongol
Sword "Chlorophytum Bichetii". After reading about it online, it seems
more like a terrarium plant than anything else. Apparently it can last
in an aquarium, without harming the biological balance of the aquarium.
Anyone had any luck with this plant or something similar? I know Petco
is not the choice place to get plants, but shipping them to my house is
dang near impossible and Petco is the only pet store within a 45 min
drive distance. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks!





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23658 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
I don't mean to butt in, but what does KH and GH stand for? I am going to be setting up a new tank here soon and would like to keep up with it a little better. I use to think that if the fish survive it must be fine, but the more I read on these posts, the more I realize how much of an amateur I am.

Lisa from Illinois

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
I just posted a reply to Kate which answers most of your questions.

You should get a good Master Test Kit and start testing your water daily and
keeping a log and if you want, post a copy of your log so that we can look
at the numbers and give you more accurate information.

Your "pet store salesman" obviously doesn't know fish from a hole in his
head. There is much more than just pH which needs to be monitored and
analyzed... especially in the first few months that a tank is set up.

Read my blog on Master Test Kits (main link in my sig and then on the right
is the link to "Everybody needs a good Master Test Kit". You should
definitely have tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH but having GH and
KH are also very helpful. API sells a pretty good test kit which tests for
all of these things. You can usually find it online or at PetsMart.com for
under $20.00 and this will last you around a year or more. The local
PetsMart stores will match their online prices if you print out the page and
tell the cashier about the online price. I save 20-50% off shelf prices
this way.

While you are at my blog, also read the page called "A to Z of Fishkeeping
for Beginners" which has some very good resources to help you including two
different online tutorials that you can take which will help teach you about
"The Nitrogen Cycle" and many other very important parts of fishkeeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a fish
tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with three
tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then bought the
fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store salesman that I
should wait about three more weeks before I perform a slight water change,
as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm trying to determine if I
should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent water change. What is recommended
in this case? Is there any special equipment I should purchase to prepare
for this process? Thanks for helping out a newbie to this hobby!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23659 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New member intro/snail identifica
Hi Ray,
sorry about your computer freeze. That's so frustrating. Mine mostly come from curious kitties. haha. I tested my tap water today and posted the results a couple emails ago. I really was under the notion that softwater was bad. Probably because I had always heard my mom say that it was bad for the houseplants. Funny how we transfer these things. I did keep African Cichlids hence the hardwater reference.
Thanks for the reply.
Kate

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
Hi Kate, Didn't expect not to get a reply back to your post sooner
than this, and I regret that I couldn't do so. I did type you a
lengthy reply yesterday morning, going into much detail, but my
computor locked up and of course I lost all I was working on. Hope
you understand that I could not re-type it due to time constraints.

So, okay, as I more or less surmised you're using all (100%) R/O
water. Since you're getting some appreciable readings (total
hardness -- 75 ppm, Total Alkalinity -- 180) in your test results of
this water, unless these results are faulty it would seem possible
that the semi-permeable membrane in the unit is starting to allow
some mineral content to come through along with the purified water.
Then too, your water may be picking up some minerals from the
substrate. Either way, at least this is better for your fish, and
you have some buffering capacity.

I understand your reluctance concerning testing the tap water when
you were specifically instructed not to consider using it. As for
the tapwater possibly being soft; it can't be any softer than R/O
water since that type of water should be completely lacking in
minerals. As I mentioned though, its possible your R/O unit may be
faulty (or your tests might be faulty). As for your question -- why
would you think soft water is bad? Soft water is fine for many
community type fish, although it really depends on what you are
keeping. A "community" aquarium is just that -- a mixture of
different types of fish, possibly with somewhat differing
requirements.

In general, to keep most community fish happy, the water should be
anywhere between moderately soft (80 ppm hardness) and moderately
hard (120 ppm hardness), although a little more one way or the other
is nothing to be concerned about. You should just avoid the
extremes. There are some Killiefish hobbyists who insists on keeping
their African rainforest Killies in water of 5 ppm hardness -- this
is much less than 1 dGH. Your new Otocinclus will do just fine in 4
dGH water or in 20 dGH -- they just don't appreciate chemical
additives.

I believe somewhere you made a reference to Cichlids liking hard
water (you apparently have kept them in the recent past?). Note that
not all Cichlids like hard, alkaline water. While those coming from
the African Rift Lakes require very hard and very alkaline water, and
those from Central America doing best in somewhat hard, alkaline
water, those Cichlids coming from South American do not, unless
they're found on the West slope of the Andes; nor do the Cichlids
found in West Africa. The fish found in the Amazon River drainage
prefer soft, neutral - to - acid water. This holds true for the fish
from most of the drainage areas found on the East slope of the Andes.

Sorry to hear about your floods. A top floor is the preferred
location in those circumstances. Stay dry! Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Ray,
> Sorry about that, I didn't mean to be so vague. I was using
entirely RO. I hadn't really even thought to test the tapwater since
A. Like you said I was adhering to advice, B. I've been told it's
softwater. Isn't that bad? and C. I've lived here 2 weeks out of the
3 months I've owned it as I've had 2 floods with disaster cleanup
taking forever. Radiant heat and cooling are great until someone
decides to puncture a line. Thank god I'm on the top floor!
> Thanks,
> Kate
>
>
> Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
> Hi Kate, Glad you found the R/O data informative. From
what you're
> relating as far as the "Aquarium guy" telling you to use R/O water
> only, for the the plants, and your taking him at his word, it does
> now seem more obvious to me that you've been using pure R/O water
> (even if you still haven't come right out and said that). There are
> still responders here who you're still leaving in the dark about
> this. Note that you may come across occasional mentions by other
> hobbyists saying they use R/O water. By this, they generally mean
> that while they use this water, they use it mixed (perhaps this is
> what your Aquarium guy meant?) There is an old saying in
> science: "nature abhors a vacuum." Pure water, devoid of any
> minerals and/or chemicals will slowly dissolve (etch) the glass in
> which it is stored.
>
> Your artesian well water might be great -- you'll just have to see
> how it tests out. Most often, water of this nature may be somewhat
> harder and more alkaline since being drawn from deep in the ground,
> it has all the more chance to come in contact with limestone-
bearing
> rock. Only testing will tell, but even if it tests to the extremes
> (excessively hard and alkaline), it might be made ideal when mixed
> with R/O water if it can't be used as obtained.
>
> I am more than a little surprised that you apparently have not
tested
> your tap water yet, as I was under the impression this is why you
> went to R/O water, but is understandable after learning you were
> directed to go to R/O water from the beginning. Do test your tap
> water; it just may be better than the artesian well water you have
in
> mind, even if you have to use a water conditioner. Depending on the
> comparative ease of using these two sources, if your tap water
tests
> good it would probably be the most convenient way to go when doing
> your weekly partial water changes. Glad to see by your post that
you
> do have an ammonia test kit. Ray
>
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Ray,
> >
> > Your info on RO water was great. Any thoughts on the artesian
well
> I mentioned in other emails? Of course I'll test it first. And I
> forgot to test the ammonia yesterday. I'll do that today. I'll
check
> my tap water too. I think I actually might have soft water in this
> place. I just moved in. The hard water in slc was always great for
> cichlids that I've done in the past but when the Aquarium guy said
> use RO only for the plants I just took him at his word.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Kate
> >
> > Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@>
> wrote: Hi Kate, Please don't take
> the lack of response to your previous
> > post personally, nor Steve's reply. In reading that reply over, I
> > see nothing "aggressive" in its tone, but only matter of fact-
> ness.
> > We do always need as much information as possible in order to
have
> a
> > good picture of what going on, and to be able to best help you.
> >
> > As to the information you have now supplied, I see you are using
> R/O
> > (Reverse Osmosis) water, doing 20% to 50% changes weekly. Since
> you
> > do not mention any other sources of water used for your tank(s),
> I'm
> > led to assume that this may be 100% pure R/O water, except for
the
> > fact you have a total hardness of 75 (ppm?) -- or 4 DGH -- and a
> > total alkalinity of 180. Please note, if by chance you're using
> pure
> > R/O water, with the apparent presence of some small quantities of
> > minerals (garnered from elsewhere?) -- Pure R/O water should
NEVER
> be
> > used for ANY fish at ANY time ANY where ANY how. This will result
> in
> > an imbalance of osmotic pressure which the fish can never fully
> > adjust to. The total lack of minerals, and resulting "hunger" of
> > this water's increased affinity to the ultimate extreme to absorb
> > (dissolve) anything it comes in contact with, results in the slow
> > decalcification of the fish's skeletal structure. This water will
> > leach out the calcium of the fish's bones after a while, through
> > unequalled osmotic pressure within the fish and the
total "vacuum"
> of
> > minerals in the water, which is at this point beyond its natural
> > ability to control.
> >
> > The least of the results of this condition is the lack of growth
> in
> > the fish (the worst, death), depending upon the duration of this
> > situation. Although you don't state why you've decided to use
> 100%
> > R/O water (if you in fact do), if your tap water is of such poor
> > quality as is, as to render it less than ideal for use in the
> > aquarium, you should at least use 20% (or more) of your tap water
> > mixed with a remaining 80% R/O water as the medium in which to
> > maintain your fish, depending on your tap water's parameters
> > (hardness, alkalinity, etc.). Another just as detrimental
> scenario
> > with the use of pure R/O water is extreme possibility of your
tank
> > having a pH crash, due to the total lack of buffering capacity,
> > although I note your value of this at the 180 figure previously
> > mentioned.
> >
> > Included with this value, and added to your other parameters,
> should
> > be the results of your testing for ammonia which I could not help
> but
> > notice is absent in you report. This reading is extremely
> important
> > for you (and everyone else concerned) to know, especially during
> > times of apparent or possible fish stress, and should be
monitored
> > regularly (at least periodically) by you so that you're kept
aware
> of
> > any possible oncoming problems and can nip them in the bud before
> > they manifest themselves in the form of sick fish. Ray
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Wow. Well I'm going to pull the good advice out and put aside
> the
> > somewhat aggressive tone of the email, although I did enjoy the
> > humor. I'll just assume it was not put there for reasons of
> > belittlement as I'm sure you would not want to discourage any up
> and
> > coming hobbyists......right? I joined this list specifically for
> help
> > in this matter. I can absolutely appreciate the restraints of a
> busy
> > schedule but it does seem that helpful emails tend to appear
> daily,
> > just not in my case. I'm sure you are correct: that my lack of
> > information was the culprit.
> > > To you, I am certain I would qualify as a newbie. As I
> mentioned
> > in my original email "this is my first time trying my hand at an
> > aquatic show-tank". I have never had more than one or two live
> plants
> > in an aquarium and fish were always my main focus. I fell in love
> > with the photos of an aquaculture contest I ran into online
> > http://showcase.aquatic-gardeners.org/2004.cgi? and wanted to do
> the
> > same type of thing. I wasn't sure what information I would need
to
> > list and your email provided me just that. So without further
ado,
> > and please let me know if I am missing anything you
> require...........
> > >
> > > Kate's tank
> > > Size-10 gallon
> > > Tank has been cycling for approximately 3 months and was
> started
> > with live freshwater sand. Forgive me for forgetting the brand.
> > >
> > > Water used-Reverse Osmosis with 20%-50% changed weekly.
> > >
> > > Additives-API_Stress Zyme, API_Stress Coat, Seachem_Flourish
> > liquid fertilizer. Added in amounts specified on the bottles. In
> the
> > case of the fertilizer this is 1/6 capful(aprox .75ml) once or
> twice
> > a week. I was adding twice a week hoping to stimulate the plants.
> I'm
> > sure over-fertilization was a problem.
> > >
> > > Filtration-Via Aqua_VA302PF submersible pump. I also added a
> Red
> > Sea_Nano Filter yesterday with API_Bio Chem Stars.
> > >
> > > Lighting-2 Coralife, 9" ,compact florescent, double lamp
> > fixtures. 18 watts each. Typically left on from 9:00am-5:00pm(8
> > hours)
> > >
> > > Plants-Java Fern and a moss similar to Java Moss. The rest did
> > not come named but through online research I believe I have
> > identified the rest to be Baby Tears(Micranthemum Umbrosum),
Dwarf
> > Saggitaria(Subulata), Dwarf Aquarium Lily(Nymphaea Stellata), and
> > Jungle Vallisneria. There is still one I cannot identify. The
Java
> > Fern and Moss are attached to a piece of wood. When I said they
> don't
> > look so hot, although a parka would have been more entertaining,
I
> > was referring to brown spots and holes which I saw on two of the
> > plants as well as lots of brown hairy algae. Alot of the leaves
> seem
> > to be decomposing: even the new ones.
> > >
> > > Fish-3 Harlequin Rasboras(good eye Steve) and 4 Otocinclus
> (which
> > I just bought yesterday to clean up the algae). There are 5
snails
> > which I mentioned earlier. They don't seem to be harmful but if
> you
> > are familiar with the ones I described(recap: small, brown,
> conical,
> > shell with clear dots. About 1/4 inch long) I would love any info
> on
> > them.
> > >
> > > Water was tested with a Jungle_Quick Dip Kit. Results were
> > > Nitrate-0
> > > Nitrite-0
> > > Total Hardness-75
> > > Total Chlorine-0
> > > Total Alkalinity-180
> > > pH-7.2
> > >
> > > I appreciate anyone who took a moment to read this and eagerly
> > await any advice any of you might have!
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Kate
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve Szabo <steve@> wrote:
> > > Kate,
> > >
> > > There are any number of reasons why you may not get a reply to
> your
> > > message. I may not have even done this, but I find myself with
a
> few
> > > extra minutes here, after running through 200+ messages in just
> > over 2
> > > hours, and actually had to look up your message in my deleted
> items
> > to
> > > write this reply. Had I needed to write replies to many
> messages,
> > I'd
> > > not have the time to reply to yours.
> > >
> > > Introducing yourself is not normally one of the reasons a
> message is
> > > ignored. You hang around for a while and post, and we will get
> an
> > idea
> > > of who you are and your level of experience.
> > >
> > > Experience is a good reason why one may not get a reply. The one
> (s)
> > with
> > > the experience may not be around, or may not really have the
> time to
> > > reply, and hope another will do it for them. (See paragraph 1
> above.
> > > Also, think vacation time, illness, pressing family matters
(You
> > love
> > > that computer more than you love me), and so on.)
> > >
> > > Looking at your original question, a lot of information seems
to
> be
> > > missing that would help those who can answer your question. I
> know
> > you
> > > posted pictures of your tank here, but for someone who does not
> have
> > > much time, that is not a real option--to go up and look for the
> > > pictures, so you need to paint a picture for everyone as well.
> Also,
> > > there is a lot of information that a picture will not convey.
For
> > > example, you could have 8 fish in the tank, but the photos only
> > show 3,
> > > because the others are obscured by plants or are not within the
> > range of
> > > your lens, etc. Also, what are your water parameters, pH,
> > temperature,
> > > etc. What are the plants in your tank, after all you said they
> were
> > > partially obscured by algal growth which came on during a forced
> > > absence. What are you using for fertilizer? How much are you
> using?
> > How
> > > are you applying it? What kind of light do you have? What is
> your
> > normal
> > > lighting schedule? What do you mean when you say the plants
> don't
> > look
> > > so hot? Are they dressed in parkas instead of swim suits and sun
> > > glasses?
> > >
> > > The more information you can give, the better the answers will
> be.
> > >
> > > One thing that bothers me is that you do not seem to have your
> own
> > test
> > > kits, that you seem to be taking your water samples to
somewhere
> to
> > have
> > > them tested. Get your own test kits and learn ho w to do the
> tests
> > > yourself so we can have numbers to go by. We do not know what
> you
> > mean
> > > when you say the water tests fine. What is fine? Is the pH 6.5
> or
> > 7.8?
> > > Very important information.
> > >
> > > I'm not really yelling at you, just trying to help you and
> others
> > learn
> > > how to best generate replies to questions. Well, I may be a bit
> > stern in
> > > telling you, but, if you wish answers, you really do need to
> give us
> > > something to answer with rather than just taking a guess.
> > >
> > > If you want a guess, mine is that you are over fertilizing the
> tank,
> > > need to give it less light while the algae problem is brought
> under
> > > control, and your plants may be going through some transplant
> shock.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> > > On Behalf Of Kate
> > > Sent: Monday, August 13, 2007 12:59 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help needed on a planted tank/New
> member
> > > intro/snail identification
> > >
> > > I just realized I never introduced myself. Maybe that's why no
> one
> > > responded.
> > > Hello! I'm Kate. I live in Salt Lake City Utah. I just moved
> into a
> > > little condo after a divorce and had to downsize a bit. I now
> live
> > > with the planted tank I mentioned, a brackish tank with 1 Moray
> Eel
> > > and 2 Leaf Fish, 5 terrariums which currently house Uroplatus
> > > Phantasticus(Satan's Leaftail Geckos) and Uroplatus Ebenaui
> > (Spearpoint
> > > Geckos), and 2 Devon Rex cats who are absolutely amazing. I grow
> > > Orchids, in and out of the terrariums, as well as various other
> > > tropicals. In the past I've had dart frogs and several reptiles
> as
> > > well as many Cichlids and a few saltwater tanks but never
delved
> > into
> > > a densely planted aquatic tank before. If the ten gallon does
> well
> > > I'll be moving up to a 30, 75 or possibly 120 which I have
> hanging
> > out
> > > in a storage unit. I'm hoping to do shrimp in the planted
> aquarium
> > > once it's happy. I love the Cherry Shrimp. There are a few
snails
> > > right now that I haven't identified. They seem to only eat
> algae.
> > They
> > > are small in size and have brown shells with little clear spots
> > > throughout the shell that allow you to see their bodies inside.
> It's
> > > quite pretty. Anyone know what they are?
> > > Thanks for reading! Any help would be much appreciated!
> > > Kate
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I just started a new project, a ten gallon planted aquarium.
I
> > figured
> > > > I should start small. I've been doing weekly water changes and
> > > > fertilizing but I seem to be getting a lot of bacteria. I had
> the
> > > > water tested and they said it was fine. The plants don't look
> so
> > hot.
> > > > This is my first time trying my hand at an aquatic show-tank.
> I
> > have
> > > > posted a few pictures under "Kate's Tank" in the group photos
> > section.
> > > > The algae went a little nuts when I had a flood, was out of
my
> > condo
> > > > for is a few days and forgot to turn the light off so that's
> why
> > you
> > > > can see a lot in the photos.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you for any info/suggestions you might have!
> > > > Kate
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from
someone
> > who knows.
> > > Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
> user panel and lay it on us.
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s
user panel and lay it on us.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23660 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation can be found in the
archives time and time again, as this one of the most frequently
recurring queries to be asked, and often with very similar
circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you research the archive
after reading my answer.

First of all, unless you use a product named Bio-Spira when you first
set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before adding any valuable fish,
which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should really only be added
after that time. This may be what the salesman meant when he told you
to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to fully cycle) but I'm
unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If you told him that
you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the wrong answer, and he
obviously gave you the wrong answer with your purchasing another 5 fish
(if you bought them from him) as you should be checking the water
parameters of the tank, changing out water as necessary for the well
being of the fish.

You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in the acid range you can
relax a little). What you need to know, and to monitor, is the
ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the nitrate level after the
tank is established), as these are going to increase. I'd advise you
to either get some test kits cover these, or get one master test kit
that will read all of the above. Ideally, your water should read 0
ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the fish, which by the way,
although you stated you have 3, you don't say what size nor do you say
what size the tank is.

At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings at this point. As
such you'll need to do some partial water changes right now to keep the
water within tolerances for the fish. At 3 weeks, your nitrite may
well be about to spike, as generally does at this time during the
cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia spike which usually
passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but I'm only guessing the
fish are comparatively small with the tank being somewhat large (this
may be how you're getting away with it. With the addition of 5 more
fish, this increased bio-load will add considerably to both your
ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change enough water to
prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.

After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of water you change out
weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it depends on the size of
the tank and the amount and size of the fish. As you don't seem to be
aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of establishing nitrifying
bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products (read -- ammonia) into
nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which is necessary as these
can be detrimental if not lethal to the fish. For equipment to help
you do this, you may want to look into the "Python," a long syphon hose
which attaches to your faucet and draws water by the venturi
proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some readings, in the
meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water changes until you get
your suspected high readings down. Keep us posted. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in
a
> fish tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with
> three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and
then
> bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store
> salesman that I should wait about three more weeks before I perform a
> slight water change, as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm
> trying to determine if I should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent
> water change. What is recommended in this case? Is there any special
> equipment I should purchase to prepare for this process? Thanks for
> helping out a newbie to this hobby!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23661 From: kate hardy Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Hi Lenny,
The reason my tap and tank water were so different is I was not using the tap water. I was using entirely RO water which, despite what I've read on this list, doesn't seem to be giving too horrid of readings. I think someone mentioned there could be a crack in the RO tank. I may have to mention that to my parents. It's their system. When the RO water is gone it will spit out regular tapwater until the tank builds back up and Park City water is pretty good so it's possible I was still filling the jugs after the RO was gone too.

My tank numbers are exactly what they were when I posted last Thursday other than the alkalinity has gone from 180 to 120. I haven't done the water change yet this week. The log is a great idea. I've been meaning to start one since I started the tank in May but just haven't. I'm a terrible procrastinator.

The tank does seem to be looking quite a bit better this week. I'm not seeing the bacteria I was before. I think adding more plants helped. I grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry Shrimp I couldn't resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the tank now include 3 Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp. I've thought about adding a pair of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.

As always thank you for the info!!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We
also do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those
numbers and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned
and recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark
brown as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23662 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Ray,

Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank, and
current test kit readings:

I have three large Danios, although they are only
about an inch and a half in length.

I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and 1
foot in width.)

Currently:
1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard)
4. The chlroine level is 0 (safe)
5. The alkalinity is 40
6. The pH is roughly 7.2

There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a Jungle
brand test kit bottle. If you have a recommendation
for a better brand of test kit that includes the
ammonia reading, please advise.

I will peruse the archives to find the answer to my
question about water changes. Please let me know if my
readings warrant an immediate water change. This is
somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm sure I'll
get the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my new
fish, as I just got them a few days ago. Thanks.

- Jim


--- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote:

> Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation can
> be found in the
> archives time and time again, as this one of the
> most frequently
> recurring queries to be asked, and often with very
> similar
> circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> research the archive
> after reading my answer.
>
> First of all, unless you use a product named
> Bio-Spira when you first
> set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before adding
> any valuable fish,
> which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should really
> only be added
> after that time. This may be what the salesman
> meant when he told you
> to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to fully
> cycle) but I'm
> unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If
> you told him that
> you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the wrong
> answer, and he
> obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> purchasing another 5 fish
> (if you bought them from him) as you should be
> checking the water
> parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> necessary for the well
> being of the fish.
>
> You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in the
> acid range you can
> relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> monitor, is the
> ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> nitrate level after the
> tank is established), as these are going to
> increase. I'd advise you
> to either get some test kits cover these, or get one
> master test kit
> that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> water should read 0
> ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> fish, which by the way,
> although you stated you have 3, you don't say what
> size nor do you say
> what size the tank is.
>
> At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings at
> this point. As
> such you'll need to do some partial water changes
> right now to keep the
> water within tolerances for the fish. At 3 weeks,
> your nitrite may
> well be about to spike, as generally does at this
> time during the
> cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia
> spike which usually
> passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but I'm
> only guessing the
> fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> somewhat large (this
> may be how you're getting away with it. With the
> addition of 5 more
> fish, this increased bio-load will add considerably
> to both your
> ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change
> enough water to
> prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
>
> After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> water you change out
> weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> depends on the size of
> the tank and the amount and size of the fish. As
> you don't seem to be
> aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> establishing nitrifying
> bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products (read
> -- ammonia) into
> nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which is
> necessary as these
> can be detrimental if not lethal to the fish. For
> equipment to help
> you do this, you may want to look into the "Python,"
> a long syphon hose
> which attaches to your faucet and draws water by the
> venturi
> proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some
> readings, in the
> meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water
> changes until you get
> your suspected high readings down. Keep us posted.
> Ray
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim"
> <rjames1973@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide
> to changing water in
> a
> > fish tank? A little background: I have a
> freshwater tank set up with
> > three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a
> couple of weeks, and
> then
> > bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by
> my local pet store
> > salesman that I should wait about three more weeks
> before I perform a
> > slight water change, as the pH levels are stable
> at this time. I'm
> > trying to determine if I should perform a 10
> percent or 25 percent
> > water change. What is recommended in this case? Is
> there any special
> > equipment I should purchase to prepare for this
> process? Thanks for
> > helping out a newbie to this hobby!
> >
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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that gives answers, not web links.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23663 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Joet, Yes, I suppose you found me out! Speaking for myself, yes I
do happen to love the hobby and I'm sure Steve too does, as well as
yourself. After reading your post, it appears to me that you may
well have misread (or misinterpreted) what I said in my post to Kate.

I'm sure we all realize that many aquarium fish today are captive
bred and raised either on farms or in tanks -- some locally (wherever
that might be), some in Florida and some in the Far East, among other
locations. To a good extent, fish can and will adapt to other water
conditions, that's a given! Many (but not all) fish will even breed
in water not found in their original habitat. Often, unless the fish
are locally raised to the area where the wholesaler/distributor is
found, these fish may already be subjected to a "roller-coaster"
ride, and while we don't want to put them through any stress, they
have already been subjected to it in most cases.

The object of what we should do with our aquarium fish, usually
bought through a wholesaler (with different water), and very possibly
subjected to another change of water after reaching the retail store,
is to slowly acclimate them to our aquarium water -- after all, its
our tap water in our aquarium that is going to maintain these fish
hopefully long-term.

Now, I did say that community fish are a mixture of fish with
different requirements (which they are), with some such as
Swordtails) PREFERRING (but not necessarily requiring) somewhat hard
alkaline water. On the other hand, you may be mixing them in the
community aquarium with Cardinals, which PREFER soft acid water (but
do not REQUIRE it). This is why I stated most community fish will do
well together in water having a total hardness of between 80 ppm
(MODERATELY soft) to 120 ppm or more (MODERATELY hard), and went on
to say that most water will be fine just so you avoid the EXTREMES
(since most fish will adapt to some degree). Your best bet is to
acclimate the fish to your tap water (if its not to the EXTREME), and
if its within comfortable tolerances for the fish as this is the
water that you are going to maintain the tank with, with partial
weekly water changes of it.

I will point out, now that you've opened up this broad subject, that
even though the fish (whether wild or farm-raised) may adapt and live
in your water, they may not necessarily thrive. It DOES NOT MATTER
where the fish were reared (in the wild, on the farm, or tank
raised), any given species of fish will ALWAYS do best in the
environment (read - water conditions) in which its species EVOLVED
in. That process has taken many millions of years. Although fish
can adapt and many (but not all) fish may be able to breed in water
other than what they evolved in, they will ALWAYS do better (their
BEST) when placed in water "natural" to them -- the water their kind
evolved in.

I originally mainly brushed on this to alert Kate to the fact that
(1) soft water is not harmful to most community fish, and (2) very
hard and alkaline water is mainly required for Rift Lake Cichlids,
etc., and to avoid extremes. After all, regardless of what water a
wholesaler or retailer may put fish in, they need not (should not) be
kept in that water if their requirements are much different. If
slowly acclimated, they can adapt slowly into water where they'll
thrive and/or be more comfortable. You wouldn't want to put Lake
Tanganyika Cichlids in water more suited to Discus and Uaru's, with a
pH of 5.8 - 6.0 and 3 dGH. Likewise, you wouldn't want to put Discus
(or any Amazon River inhabitant) in water with a pH of 9.2 and having
a hardness of up to 500 ppm, or more (29 dGH), which Lake Tanganyika
can have during certain seasons (and in certain areas). Not only
will they not thrive, they will not live for very long.

Water from some of the other African lakes can be even more basic,
with Lake George having a pH of between 9.3 and 9.9, and Lake Rudolph
having a pH of between 9.4 and 10.0. You better not try keeping
those fish (or Tanganyicans) in average (pH 6.8 - 7.2) aquarium water
just because you want to avoid "putting these fish though some
unnecessary stress." To reiterate, fish will always do best in the
water their species originally came from, REGARDLESS of the water
they may have "temporarily" adapted to or how many generations
they've been raised in conditions other than their species' natural
environs during the comparative blink of an eye when considering the
much larger scale of evolution. Each fish made itself, through
process of elimination, into an entity best suited to the conditions
found where they developed over eons. You're not going to change
that preference by "adapting" them to breed in conditions other than
that, nor is it in their best interest to "avoid" stressing them by
not putting them back into water best suited for them. They can and
will adapt when done carefully, and will thank you for it.

Note that I'm not advocating changing your present water conditions,
unless you actually need to, and there are times you definitely need
to. If it cannot be done conveniently, the hobbyist should not
consider keeping that species. Overall, when maintaining the average
community fish in the average community tank, you want your change
out (tap) water to be the same as your tank water for ease of
maintenance and consistence. Ray






--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, all:
>
> Been reading the replies from Steve and Ray and I can't argue with
> anything they said. These two people LOVE the hobby, I can tell.
(It
> takes one to know one, and I love it, too.) Haven't seen any
postings
> from Lenny lately.(?)
>
> Anyway, I just wanted to stick my two cents in here, for what it's
> worth, and make an observation. Everyone is concerned about where
the
> fish come from - meaning their natural habitat, but we can't forget
> that a lot of these fish are now coming from farms and breeders
around
> the areas we live in. If not the immediate we are in, certainly far
> away from the fish's natural environment. When you are buying new
> fish, it's a good idea to find out if they were bred locally. Did
the
> breeder use anything to try to alter the water to the fishes
liking?
> Or did the breeder just use the water from the area as it is?
>
> A lot of the "locally grown" fish are already acclimated to the area
> water they were raised in from fry. If you are once again trying to
> alter the water back to their "natural environments" we could really
> be putting these fish through some unnecessary stress.
>
> You may want to alter the water to the natural environment
parameters
> as much as possible because it stimulates the color or some other
> reason, but if you're going to do this, it should be done S-L-O-W-L-
Y!
> Don't put your fish on a roller coaster ride.
>
> Of course, if they are wild - coming from the natural environment -
> the you would want to alter your water as best you can to the
> parameters of where they came from. That's another point. If you
are
> tanking fish from a completely different kind of water than your
> area, that's a lot of work to alter! Don't forget you have to do it
> religiously with all the water changes, or the fish suffer.
>
> joet
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23664 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Jim, You have two parameters labeled the same. I presume #2. should
read nitrIte (NOT nitrAte). Don't let them confuse you. Nitrite is
even more toxic to fish at lower amounts than ammonia. As such, I
would start doing 35% water changes now, monitoring the nitrite level
as you go. You may need daily water changes for a while or maybe
every other day -- your test results will tell you.

We do need ammonia test results. I particularly prefer liquid test
kits, while others here prefer the strips. My preferred ammonia test
kit is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, but just so long as its a good
reliable brand, it should be up to the ease of the user reading it.
Some people can't distinguish variuos color shading in different
brands of test kits.

As I suspected, the bioload is comparatively light, but you're still
going to need to do some work to keep the water "liveable." Keep us
posted on the test results, especially if you need guidance on water
changing, etc. Don't touch the filter at this point as its
colonizing with beneficial bacteria. Likewise, unless it really
needs it, don't clean (vacuum) your gravel yet, and then if you do
decide it needs it, only do half this week and the other half next
week. It should not need cleaning at this point unless you're
overfeeding.

Oh, you haven't mentioned the 5 new fish. What kind and how big? Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jim Riley <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank, and
> current test kit readings:
>
> I have three large Danios, although they are only
> about an inch and a half in length.
>
> I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and 1
> foot in width.)
>
> Currently:
> 1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
> 2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
> 3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard)
> 4. The chlroine level is 0 (safe)
> 5. The alkalinity is 40
> 6. The pH is roughly 7.2
>
> There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a Jungle
> brand test kit bottle. If you have a recommendation
> for a better brand of test kit that includes the
> ammonia reading, please advise.
>
> I will peruse the archives to find the answer to my
> question about water changes. Please let me know if my
> readings warrant an immediate water change. This is
> somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm sure I'll
> get the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my new
> fish, as I just got them a few days ago. Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation can
> > be found in the
> > archives time and time again, as this one of the
> > most frequently
> > recurring queries to be asked, and often with very
> > similar
> > circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> > research the archive
> > after reading my answer.
> >
> > First of all, unless you use a product named
> > Bio-Spira when you first
> > set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before adding
> > any valuable fish,
> > which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should really
> > only be added
> > after that time. This may be what the salesman
> > meant when he told you
> > to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to fully
> > cycle) but I'm
> > unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If
> > you told him that
> > you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the wrong
> > answer, and he
> > obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> > purchasing another 5 fish
> > (if you bought them from him) as you should be
> > checking the water
> > parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> > necessary for the well
> > being of the fish.
> >
> > You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in the
> > acid range you can
> > relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> > monitor, is the
> > ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> > nitrate level after the
> > tank is established), as these are going to
> > increase. I'd advise you
> > to either get some test kits cover these, or get one
> > master test kit
> > that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> > water should read 0
> > ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> > fish, which by the way,
> > although you stated you have 3, you don't say what
> > size nor do you say
> > what size the tank is.
> >
> > At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings at
> > this point. As
> > such you'll need to do some partial water changes
> > right now to keep the
> > water within tolerances for the fish. At 3 weeks,
> > your nitrite may
> > well be about to spike, as generally does at this
> > time during the
> > cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia
> > spike which usually
> > passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but I'm
> > only guessing the
> > fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> > somewhat large (this
> > may be how you're getting away with it. With the
> > addition of 5 more
> > fish, this increased bio-load will add considerably
> > to both your
> > ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change
> > enough water to
> > prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
> >
> > After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> > water you change out
> > weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> > depends on the size of
> > the tank and the amount and size of the fish. As
> > you don't seem to be
> > aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> > establishing nitrifying
> > bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products (read
> > -- ammonia) into
> > nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which is
> > necessary as these
> > can be detrimental if not lethal to the fish. For
> > equipment to help
> > you do this, you may want to look into the "Python,"
> > a long syphon hose
> > which attaches to your faucet and draws water by the
> > venturi
> > proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some
> > readings, in the
> > meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water
> > changes until you get
> > your suspected high readings down. Keep us posted.
> > Ray
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim"
> > <rjames1973@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide
> > to changing water in
> > a
> > > fish tank? A little background: I have a
> > freshwater tank set up with
> > > three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a
> > couple of weeks, and
> > then
> > > bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by
> > my local pet store
> > > salesman that I should wait about three more weeks
> > before I perform a
> > > slight water change, as the pH levels are stable
> > at this time. I'm
> > > trying to determine if I should perform a 10
> > percent or 25 percent
> > > water change. What is recommended in this case? Is
> > there any special
> > > equipment I should purchase to prepare for this
> > process? Thanks for
> > > helping out a newbie to this hobby!
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search
> that gives answers, not web links.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23665 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Ray,

Thanks for the reply. Actually, I did mention the
fish. I have three large Danios.

- Jim

--- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
wrote:

> Jim, You have two parameters labeled the same. I
> presume #2. should
> read nitrIte (NOT nitrAte). Don't let them confuse
> you. Nitrite is
> even more toxic to fish at lower amounts than
> ammonia. As such, I
> would start doing 35% water changes now, monitoring
> the nitrite level
> as you go. You may need daily water changes for a
> while or maybe
> every other day -- your test results will tell you.
>
> We do need ammonia test results. I particularly
> prefer liquid test
> kits, while others here prefer the strips. My
> preferred ammonia test
> kit is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, but just so long as
> its a good
> reliable brand, it should be up to the ease of the
> user reading it.
> Some people can't distinguish variuos color shading
> in different
> brands of test kits.
>
> As I suspected, the bioload is comparatively light,
> but you're still
> going to need to do some work to keep the water
> "liveable." Keep us
> posted on the test results, especially if you need
> guidance on water
> changing, etc. Don't touch the filter at this point
> as its
> colonizing with beneficial bacteria. Likewise,
> unless it really
> needs it, don't clean (vacuum) your gravel yet, and
> then if you do
> decide it needs it, only do half this week and the
> other half next
> week. It should not need cleaning at this point
> unless you're
> overfeeding.
>
> Oh, you haven't mentioned the 5 new fish. What kind
> and how big? Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jim Riley
> <rjames1973@...> wrote:
> >
> > Ray,
> >
> > Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank,
> and
> > current test kit readings:
> >
> > I have three large Danios, although they are only
> > about an inch and a half in length.
> >
> > I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and
> 1
> > foot in width.)
> >
> > Currently:
> > 1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
> > 2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
> > 3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard)
> > 4. The chlroine level is 0 (safe)
> > 5. The alkalinity is 40
> > 6. The pH is roughly 7.2
> >
> > There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a
> Jungle
> > brand test kit bottle. If you have a
> recommendation
> > for a better brand of test kit that includes the
> > ammonia reading, please advise.
> >
> > I will peruse the archives to find the answer to
> my
> > question about water changes. Please let me know
> if my
> > readings warrant an immediate water change. This
> is
> > somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm sure
> I'll
> > get the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my
> new
> > fish, as I just got them a few days ago. Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
> >
> > --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation
> can
> > > be found in the
> > > archives time and time again, as this one of the
> > > most frequently
> > > recurring queries to be asked, and often with
> very
> > > similar
> > > circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> > > research the archive
> > > after reading my answer.
> > >
> > > First of all, unless you use a product named
> > > Bio-Spira when you first
> > > set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before
> adding
> > > any valuable fish,
> > > which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should
> really
> > > only be added
> > > after that time. This may be what the salesman
> > > meant when he told you
> > > to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to
> fully
> > > cycle) but I'm
> > > unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank.
> If
> > > you told him that
> > > you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the
> wrong
> > > answer, and he
> > > obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> > > purchasing another 5 fish
> > > (if you bought them from him) as you should be
> > > checking the water
> > > parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> > > necessary for the well
> > > being of the fish.
> > >
> > > You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in
> the
> > > acid range you can
> > > relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> > > monitor, is the
> > > ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> > > nitrate level after the
> > > tank is established), as these are going to
> > > increase. I'd advise you
> > > to either get some test kits cover these, or get
> one
> > > master test kit
> > > that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> > > water should read 0
> > > ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> > > fish, which by the way,
> > > although you stated you have 3, you don't say
> what
> > > size nor do you say
> > > what size the tank is.
> > >
> > > At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings
> at
> > > this point. As
> > > such you'll need to do some partial water
> changes
> > > right now to keep the
> > > water within tolerances for the fish. At 3
> weeks,
> > > your nitrite may
> > > well be about to spike, as generally does at
> this
> > > time during the
> > > cycling process. Its surprising that the
> ammonia
> > > spike which usually
> > > passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but
> I'm
> > > only guessing the
> > > fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> > > somewhat large (this
> > > may be how you're getting away with it. With
> the
> > > addition of 5 more
> > > fish, this increased bio-load will add
> considerably
> > > to both your
> > > ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you
> change
> > > enough water to
> > > prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
> > >
> > > After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> > > water you change out
> > > weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> > > depends on the size of
> > > the tank and the amount and size of the fish.
> As
> > > you don't seem to be
> > > aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> > > establishing nitrifying
> > > bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products
> (read
> > > -- ammonia) into
> > > nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate,
> which is
> > > necessary as these
>
=== message truncated ===




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23666 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
You're not butting in. There are thousands of members who receive these
posts/emails and anyone is welcome to ask questions or add comments to
anything posted by anyone. It's how we all learn more. I even have a
"Dictionary" blog page set up for all of the acronyms and unusual words that
we use in the hobby.

KH is Carbonate Hardness and GH is General Hardness. KH plays a big part in
keeping the pH stabile. If the KH drops too low, the pH can crash which can
cause severe stress and/or death to fish. GH is the total hardness which
some kits measure as "total alkalinity" and the readings can be in ppm
(parts per million) or dH (degrees of Hardness). This site has more info on
KH and keeping it at proper levels using good ol' "Baking Soda".
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp For heavily stocked tanks or
tanks with dirty fish (like my goldfish), keeping the KH at proper levels is
critical if someone has low pH and/or soft water that would be more prone to
a pH crash compared to someone with higher pH and/or hard water. Or for
people that go long periods between doing PWC's (partial water changes)
since the various "good" bacteria also utilize lots of KH in processing the
fish waste, etc.

My blog page, "A to Z of Fishkeeping" has links to other pages and two
different tutorials that cover the beginning aspects of water chemistry,
testing, etc.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 4:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

I don't mean to butt in, but what does KH and GH stand for? I am going to be
setting up a new tank here soon and would like to keep up with it a little
better. I use to think that if the fish survive it must be fine, but the
more I read on these posts, the more I realize how much of an amateur I am.

Lisa from Illinois

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
I just posted a reply to Kate which answers most of your questions.

You should get a good Master Test Kit and start testing your water daily and
keeping a log and if you want, post a copy of your log so that we can look
at the numbers and give you more accurate information.

Your "pet store salesman" obviously doesn't know fish from a hole in his
head. There is much more than just pH which needs to be monitored and
analyzed... especially in the first few months that a tank is set up.

Read my blog on Master Test Kits (main link in my sig and then on the right
is the link to "Everybody needs a good Master Test Kit". You should
definitely have tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH but having GH and
KH are also very helpful. API sells a pretty good test kit which tests for
all of these things. You can usually find it online or at PetsMart.com for
under $20.00 and this will last you around a year or more. The local
PetsMart stores will match their online prices if you print out the page and
tell the cashier about the online price. I save 20-50% off shelf prices this
way.

While you are at my blog, also read the page called "A to Z of Fishkeeping
for Beginners" which has some very good resources to help you including two
different online tutorials that you can take which will help teach you about
"The Nitrogen Cycle" and many other very important parts of fishkeeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a fish
tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with three
tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then bought the
fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store salesman that I
should wait about three more weeks before I perform a slight water change,
as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm trying to determine if I
should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent water change. What is recommended
in this case? Is there any special equipment I should purchase to prepare
for this process? Thanks for helping out a newbie to this hobby!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23667 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
What do you mean by "I'm not seeing the bacteria I was before"??? Bacteria
is generally microscopic so it's not something we can see and for the most
part, we can't test for it either unless you view your water samples, fish
scrapings under a microscope.

If your tap has no hardness reading, then something in your tank is leaching
into your water. This may not be a bad thing but you should at least
identify what it is in case it starts making the water too hard for your
fish or changing too much, too fast for your fish (or plants).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
The reason my tap and tank water were so different is I was not using the
tap water. I was using entirely RO water which, despite what I've read on
this list, doesn't seem to be giving too horrid of readings. I think someone
mentioned there could be a crack in the RO tank. I may have to mention that
to my parents. It's their system. When the RO water is gone it will spit out
regular tapwater until the tank builds back up and Park City water is pretty
good so it's possible I was still filling the jugs after the RO was gone
too.

My tank numbers are exactly what they were when I posted last Thursday other
than the alkalinity has gone from 180 to 120. I haven't done the water
change yet this week. The log is a great idea. I've been meaning to start
one since I started the tank in May but just haven't. I'm a terrible
procrastinator.

The tank does seem to be looking quite a bit better this week. I'm not
seeing the bacteria I was before. I think adding more plants helped. I
grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry Shrimp I couldn't
resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the tank now include 3
Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp. I've thought about adding a pair
of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.

As always thank you for the info!!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We also
do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those numbers
and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned and
recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark brown
as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx
<http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx>


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23668 From: Aaron Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: cherry shrimp glosso
mmm, cherry shrimp glosso, yummy ~ sounds like an appetizer I had at
that Thai restaurant downtown,

;^)

Kate,

You must have some really nice LFS there, I have never seen Glosso or
cherry shrimp anywhere around where I live in the East Bay Area of
San Fran

Glosso is a great plant, it will nicely blanket the bottom of the
tank given a real appealing look, Amano says to plant each "stem?"
individually and spaced apart a bit so they can have room to grow, I
saw video of him doing a demonstration on it and he was using
tweezers - very meticulous work


The Cherry Shrimp are apparently eager breeders, I've seen
individuals advertise them online at relatively inexpensive prices
compared to the big online companies


Please upload some new pics when you get a chance so we (i) can see
how your aquarium is progressing

take care


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
>...
> I grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry
Shrimp I couldn't resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of
the tank now include 3 Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp.
I've thought about adding a pair of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping
there.
>
> As always thank you for the info!!
> Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23669 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
You made a slight typo on the number 2. statement. Your "nitrIte" level is
0.5ppm but at least you listed the chemical formula to clarify the typo and
you had just listed the nitrAte level in number 1. This nitrite level means
your tank is not fully "cycled" (The Nitrogen Cycle) since a fully cycled
tank will have 0.0ppm for ammonia and 0.0ppm for nitrIte. You can add a
pinch of salt (just a pinch), which will protect your fish from nitrite
poisoning up to 2.0ppm but you should keep an eye on things with daily
testing and do a PWC whenever your nitrites get over 0.5ppm.

How long has the tank been set up? From reading further down into Ray's
previous answer, I see where you recently added more fish and you may not
have been fully cycled from the start so you really need to continue doing
daily testing to make sure the ammonia/nitrite levels stay in the non-toxic
ranges... which is below 0.5ppm for general purposes. 0.0ppm is the only
"safe" level for both of these tests, no matter what a particular test kit
may say. I've seen some that say 0.0 - 0.25 or 0.5 are "safe" but this
simply is not true.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Water Changes

Ray,

Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank, and current test kit
readings:

I have three large Danios, although they are only about an inch and a half
in length.

I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and 1 foot in width.)

Currently:
1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard) 4. The chlroine level is 0
(safe) 5. The alkalinity is 40 6. The pH is roughly 7.2

There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a Jungle brand test kit bottle.
If you have a recommendation for a better brand of test kit that includes
the ammonia reading, please advise.

I will peruse the archives to find the answer to my question about water
changes. Please let me know if my readings warrant an immediate water
change. This is somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm sure I'll get
the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my new fish, as I just got them a
few days ago. Thanks.

- Jim


--- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
wrote:

> Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation can be found in the
> archives time and time again, as this one of the most frequently
> recurring queries to be asked, and often with very similar
> circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you research the archive
> after reading my answer.
>
> First of all, unless you use a product named Bio-Spira when you first
> set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before adding any valuable fish,
> which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should really only be added
> after that time. This may be what the salesman meant when he told you
> to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to fully
> cycle) but I'm
> unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If you told him that
> you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the wrong answer, and he
> obviously gave you the wrong answer with your purchasing another 5
> fish (if you bought them from him) as you should be checking the water
> parameters of the tank, changing out water as necessary for the well
> being of the fish.
>
> You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in the acid range you can
> relax a little). What you need to know, and to monitor, is the
> ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the nitrate level after
> the tank is established), as these are going to increase. I'd advise
> you to either get some test kits cover these, or get one master test
> kit that will read all of the above. Ideally, your water should read 0
> ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the fish, which by the
> way, although you stated you have 3, you don't say what size nor do
> you say what size the tank is.
>
> At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings at this point. As
> such you'll need to do some partial water changes right now to keep
> the water within tolerances for the fish. At 3 weeks, your nitrite may
> well be about to spike, as generally does at this time during the
> cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia spike which usually
> passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but I'm only guessing the
> fish are comparatively small with the tank being somewhat large (this
> may be how you're getting away with it. With the addition of 5 more
> fish, this increased bio-load will add considerably to both your
> ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change enough water to
> prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
>
> After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of water you change out
> weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it depends on the size
> of the tank and the amount and size of the fish. As you don't seem to
> be aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of establishing
> nitrifying bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products (read
> -- ammonia) into
> nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which is necessary as
> these can be detrimental if not lethal to the fish. For equipment to
> help you do this, you may want to look into the "Python,"
> a long syphon hose
> which attaches to your faucet and draws water by the venturi
> proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some readings, in the
> meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water changes until you
> get your suspected high readings down. Keep us posted.
> Ray
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "Jim"
> <rjames1973@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide
> to changing water in
> a
> > fish tank? A little background: I have a
> freshwater tank set up with
> > three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a
> couple of weeks, and
> then
> > bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by
> my local pet store
> > salesman that I should wait about three more weeks
> before I perform a
> > slight water change, as the pH levels are stable
> at this time. I'm
> > trying to determine if I should perform a 10
> percent or 25 percent
> > water change. What is recommended in this case? Is
> there any special
> > equipment I should purchase to prepare for this
> process? Thanks for
> > helping out a newbie to this hobby!
> >
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.2/967 - Release Date: 8/22/2007
6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23670 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Lenny,

Thanks for the advice on the salt, which I will try.
Here is the complete history on my tank setup, right
up to the point when I introduced the three fish that
currently inhabit that tank.

I bought and set up the tank on Monday, August 13. I
let the water 'cycle' until the following Monday
(August 20). On August 20, I purchased three large
Danios, per the advice of my local pet shop salesman.
I had read that Danios are good, hearty tropical fish,
so I took the salesman's advice. I had the water
tested at the pet shop, and was told that the water
was safe for the fish. I put the three large Danios in
the tank that day. I have not introduced any new fish
in the tank since Monday. That is where things stand
at this point.

Thanks again on the advice on the salt. I just put a
pinch in the tank. I will take a reading of the water
tomorrow. This is much more work than I imagined, but
hopefully I will get the hang of it soon.

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> You made a slight typo on the number 2. statement.
> Your "nitrIte" level is
> 0.5ppm but at least you listed the chemical formula
> to clarify the typo and
> you had just listed the nitrAte level in number 1.
> This nitrite level means
> your tank is not fully "cycled" (The Nitrogen Cycle)
> since a fully cycled
> tank will have 0.0ppm for ammonia and 0.0ppm for
> nitrIte. You can add a
> pinch of salt (just a pinch), which will protect
> your fish from nitrite
> poisoning up to 2.0ppm but you should keep an eye on
> things with daily
> testing and do a PWC whenever your nitrites get over
> 0.5ppm.
>
> How long has the tank been set up? From reading
> further down into Ray's
> previous answer, I see where you recently added more
> fish and you may not
> have been fully cycled from the start so you really
> need to continue doing
> daily testing to make sure the ammonia/nitrite
> levels stay in the non-toxic
> ranges... which is below 0.5ppm for general
> purposes. 0.0ppm is the only
> "safe" level for both of these tests, no matter what
> a particular test kit
> may say. I've seen some that say 0.0 - 0.25 or 0.5
> are "safe" but this
> simply is not true.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:55 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Water Changes
>
> Ray,
>
> Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank, and
> current test kit
> readings:
>
> I have three large Danios, although they are only
> about an inch and a half
> in length.
>
> I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and 1
> foot in width.)
>
> Currently:
> 1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
> 2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
> 3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard) 4.
> The chlroine level is 0
> (safe) 5. The alkalinity is 40 6. The pH is roughly
> 7.2
>
> There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a
> Jungle brand test kit bottle.
> If you have a recommendation for a better brand of
> test kit that includes
> the ammonia reading, please advise.
>
> I will peruse the archives to find the answer to my
> question about water
> changes. Please let me know if my readings warrant
> an immediate water
> change. This is somewhat overwhelming and confusing,
> but I'm sure I'll get
> the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my new
> fish, as I just got them a
> few days ago. Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...
> <mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation
> can be found in the
> > archives time and time again, as this one of the
> most frequently
> > recurring queries to be asked, and often with very
> similar
> > circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> research the archive
> > after reading my answer.
> >
> > First of all, unless you use a product named
> Bio-Spira when you first
> > set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before
> adding any valuable fish,
> > which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should
> really only be added
> > after that time. This may be what the salesman
> meant when he told you
> > to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to
> fully
> > cycle) but I'm
> > unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If
> you told him that
> > you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the
> wrong answer, and he
> > obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> purchasing another 5
> > fish (if you bought them from him) as you should
> be checking the water
> > parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> necessary for the well
> > being of the fish.
> >
> > You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in
> the acid range you can
> > relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> monitor, is the
> > ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> nitrate level after
> > the tank is established), as these are going to
> increase. I'd advise
> > you to either get some test kits cover these, or
> get one master test
> > kit that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> water should read 0
> > ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> fish, which by the
> > way, although you stated you have 3, you don't say
> what size nor do
> > you say what size the tank is.
> >
> > At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings
> at this point. As
> > such you'll need to do some partial water changes
> right now to keep
> > the water within tolerances for the fish. At 3
> weeks, your nitrite may
> > well be about to spike, as generally does at this
> time during the
> > cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia
> spike which usually
> > passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but
> I'm only guessing the
> > fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> somewhat large (this
> > may be how you're getting away with it. With the
> addition of 5 more
> > fish, this increased bio-load will add
> considerably to both your
> > ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change
> enough water to
> > prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
> >
> > After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> water you change out
> > weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> depends on the size
> > of the tank and the amount and size of the fish.
> As you don't seem to
> > be aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> establishing
> > nitrifying bacteria to convert the fishes' waste
> products (read
> > -- ammonia) into
> > nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which
> is necessary as
> > these can be detrimental if not lethal to the
> fish. For equipment to
> > help you do this, you may want to look into the
> "Python,"
> > a long syphon hose
> > which attaches to your faucet and draws water by
> the venturi
> > proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some
> readings, in the
> > meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water
> changes until you
> > get your suspected high readings down. Keep us
> posted.
> > Ray
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> , "Jim"
> > <rjames1973@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide
> > to changing water in
>
=== message truncated ===




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23671 From: Aaron Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Where did the fish come from?
I got mine at the store.

;^)


Wow, thanks Ray, great information


before I got into this hobby, I used to think that water was just
water, then I found out there where 2 kinds of fish to choose
from "Fresh" and Salt - which made enough sense at the time seeing as
how I'd been to the Lake and the Ocean and almost understood the
concept except for the Salmon which lived in both and that kinda
still baffles me, then I heard about Brackish fish and was like ok I
think I'm starting to get it, then people started talking about tap
vs. R/O and I started buying bottled water until I got more confused
cuz there was distilled, Spring and Mineral too choose from too.

Then I realized I was in-over-my-head when there was discussion about
pH, GH, KH, dH-ppm, soft-hard, acid-alkaline, No2-no3, Co2, NitrIte-
NitrAte, Ammonia-Ammonium, etc...

So I bought a bunch of test kits and additives and tried
to "Manipulate" the Water parameters to fit what I thought it should
be, the more I messed with it the worse it got,

now I want to believe "less is more" and just keep it as simple as
possible without being irresponsible, so I figured I would stick to
the R/O water because of all the chemicals in the tap including
chloramine and the tap is really hard and alkaline (about 8+ pH)

I like the small Tetras - Neons, Cardinals and Black Neons, but I
also have hardly any impulse control and currently have Dwarf African
Frogs and "Dwarf Neon Rainbows" in the planted community tank with
otos, corys, an SAE a fake SAE and some "Indian Algae Eaters" as well
as the occasional ghost shrimp and lots of snails - there have been
other impulse fish that have come and gone, some died and the others
I sold when I realized I did not have the right set up for them -
like the green spotted puffer

It is my understanding Tetras of these kind do better in soft acidic
water - which is what I get with R/O, but I add Kent's R/O Right to
replace the minerals and Kent's ph Stable for the Alkalinity buffer

for a while there the Black neons and Rainbows where breeding
successfully and that was an added bonus

I think I like the Idea of a "Species" tank but i have to get those
impulse buys under control

I have even seen discussion of certain plants "preferring" a
particular type of water, so far I just stick with whatever I got in
there now, occasionally I'll add something new and if it survives
great, if not I try to remember not to get that plant again

It has been a great learning experience for me and the more of these
posts I read the deeper into it I get and it amazes me how diverse
nature is
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23672 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Hi Jim,

You need to quit using the term "cycle" when talking about filling your tank
and running it for a certain period of time as this does nothing to "cycle"
a tank (or make it safe for fish) in the context of fish keeping. The word
"cycle" is the abbreviated word for "The Nitrogen Cycle" and the only way to
cycle a tank is to first provide a source of ammonia which is the first
phase of the nitrogen cycle, followed by nitrItes and then Nitrates. There
are two basic types of nitrifying bacteria that are needed in your
tank/filter media to complete this process. They are generally called
nitrifying or de-nitrifying bacteria but they mean the same thing.

There are two modern ways to cycle a tank without fish (so that you are not
putting them through the arduous and often deadly process) and one is using
the product Bio-Spira and the other is fishless cycling using plain ammonia.
There are other so-called bacteria-in-a-bottle products but my personal
experience and the countless postings in forums generally show they do not
work as advertised. Bio-Spira is a patented process and is stored/shipped
refrigerated which keeps the live bacteria in a state of hibernation so they
actually work when you use the product. The other on-the-shelf products
have no way of keeping the bacteria alive.

Unfortunately, your "pet store salesman" is ill-informed on "fishless
cycling" so he/she referred you to the "old" method of using live fish to
start the process which would technically be inhumane if fish were treated
the same as other domestic pets. At least he didn't sell you a bunch of
additives too. Heck, people who "cycle with fish" could end up like Michael
Vick... if fish were accorded the same protection as dogs/cats.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 8:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Water Changes

Lenny,

Thanks for the advice on the salt, which I will try.
Here is the complete history on my tank setup, right up to the point when I
introduced the three fish that currently inhabit that tank.

I bought and set up the tank on Monday, August 13. I let the water 'cycle'
until the following Monday (August 20). On August 20, I purchased three
large Danios, per the advice of my local pet shop salesman.
I had read that Danios are good, hearty tropical fish, so I took the
salesman's advice. I had the water tested at the pet shop, and was told that
the water was safe for the fish. I put the three large Danios in the tank
that day. I have not introduced any new fish in the tank since Monday. That
is where things stand at this point.

Thanks again on the advice on the salt. I just put a pinch in the tank. I
will take a reading of the water tomorrow. This is much more work than I
imagined, but hopefully I will get the hang of it soon.

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> You made a slight typo on the number 2. statement.
> Your "nitrIte" level is
> 0.5ppm but at least you listed the chemical formula to clarify the
> typo and you had just listed the nitrAte level in number 1.
> This nitrite level means
> your tank is not fully "cycled" (The Nitrogen Cycle) since a fully
> cycled tank will have 0.0ppm for ammonia and 0.0ppm for nitrIte. You
> can add a pinch of salt (just a pinch), which will protect your fish
> from nitrite poisoning up to 2.0ppm but you should keep an eye on
> things with daily testing and do a PWC whenever your nitrites get over
> 0.5ppm.
>
> How long has the tank been set up? From reading further down into
> Ray's previous answer, I see where you recently added more fish and
> you may not have been fully cycled from the start so you really need
> to continue doing daily testing to make sure the ammonia/nitrite
> levels stay in the non-toxic ranges... which is below 0.5ppm for
> general purposes. 0.0ppm is the only "safe" level for both of these
> tests, no matter what a particular test kit may say. I've seen some
> that say 0.0 - 0.25 or 0.5 are "safe" but this simply is not true.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:55 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Water Changes
>
> Ray,
>
> Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank, and current test kit
> readings:
>
> I have three large Danios, although they are only about an inch and a
> half in length.
>
> I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and 1 foot in width.)
>
> Currently:
> 1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
> 2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
> 3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard) 4.
> The chlroine level is 0
> (safe) 5. The alkalinity is 40 6. The pH is roughly
> 7.2
>
> There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a Jungle brand test kit
> bottle.
> If you have a recommendation for a better brand of test kit that
> includes the ammonia reading, please advise.
>
> I will peruse the archives to find the answer to my question about
> water changes. Please let me know if my readings warrant an immediate
> water change. This is somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm
> sure I'll get the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my new fish,
> as I just got them a few days ago. Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...
> <mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com>
> <mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation
> can be found in the
> > archives time and time again, as this one of the
> most frequently
> > recurring queries to be asked, and often with very
> similar
> > circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> research the archive
> > after reading my answer.
> >
> > First of all, unless you use a product named
> Bio-Spira when you first
> > set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before
> adding any valuable fish,
> > which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should
> really only be added
> > after that time. This may be what the salesman
> meant when he told you
> > to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to
> fully
> > cycle) but I'm
> > unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank. If
> you told him that
> > you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the
> wrong answer, and he
> > obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> purchasing another 5
> > fish (if you bought them from him) as you should
> be checking the water
> > parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> necessary for the well
> > being of the fish.
> >
> > You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in
> the acid range you can
> > relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> monitor, is the
> > ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> nitrate level after
> > the tank is established), as these are going to
> increase. I'd advise
> > you to either get some test kits cover these, or
> get one master test
> > kit that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> water should read 0
> > ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> fish, which by the
> > way, although you stated you have 3, you don't say
> what size nor do
> > you say what size the tank is.
> >
> > At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings
> at this point. As
> > such you'll need to do some partial water changes
> right now to keep
> > the water within tolerances for the fish. At 3
> weeks, your nitrite may
> > well be about to spike, as generally does at this
> time during the
> > cycling process. Its surprising that the ammonia
> spike which usually
> > passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but
> I'm only guessing the
> > fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> somewhat large (this
> > may be how you're getting away with it. With the
> addition of 5 more
> > fish, this increased bio-load will add
> considerably to both your
> > ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you change
> enough water to
> > prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
> >
> > After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> water you change out
> > weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> depends on the size
> > of the tank and the amount and size of the fish.
> As you don't seem to
> > be aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> establishing
> > nitrifying bacteria to convert the fishes' waste
> products (read
> > -- ammonia) into
> > nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate, which
> is necessary as
> > these can be detrimental if not lethal to the
> fish. For equipment to
> > help you do this, you may want to look into the
> "Python,"
> > a long syphon hose
> > which attaches to your faucet and draws water by
> the venturi
> > proncipal. Get your test kits and give us some
> readings, in the
> > meantime, you may need to do as much as 50% water
> changes until you
> > get your suspected high readings down. Keep us
> posted.
> > Ray
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> , "Jim"
> > <rjames1973@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide
> > to changing water in
>
=== message truncated ===

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6:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23673 From: jett07002 Date: 8/23/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Good hearing from you Ray.
Guess it's sure a good thing that I'm not a writer cause you put much
more eloquently about the water and fish subject much better than I
did. What I was try to drive home was mostly meant for new hobbyists.
My point was that they can't keep trying to change the water
conditions the fish are in too fast. And once they do, keeping the
water to the settings appropriate for the fish, they have to do it
religiously. You can't adjust the water for one PWC and decide to
just use the tap water the way it is on the next PWC. So keeping the
water parameters for the tank should be consistent or you have the
"roller coaster" ride. I guess in short what I'm saying is if a
hobbyist doesn't have the time to do this --and for many, it is the
fun of doing it -- they should get fish that will thrive in the water
of their area. It makes keeping the fish much easier.

joet

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Joet, Yes, I suppose you found me out! Speaking for myself, yes I
> do happen to love the hobby and I'm sure Steve too does, as well as
> yourself. After reading your post, it appears to me that you may
> well have misread (or misinterpreted) what I said in my post to Kate.
>
> I'm sure we all realize that many aquarium fish today are captive
> bred and raised either on farms or in tanks -- some locally (wherever
> that might be), some in Florida and some in the Far East, among other
> locations. To a good extent, fish can and will adapt to other water
> conditions, that's a given! Many (but not all) fish will even breed
> in water not found in their original habitat. Often, unless the fish
> are locally raised to the area where the wholesaler/distributor is
> found, these fish may already be subjected to a "roller-coaster"
> ride, and while we don't want to put them through any stress, they
> have already been subjected to it in most cases.
>
> The object of what we should do with our aquarium fish, usually
> bought through a wholesaler (with different water), and very possibly
> subjected to another change of water after reaching the retail store,
> is to slowly acclimate them to our aquarium water -- after all, its
> our tap water in our aquarium that is going to maintain these fish
> hopefully long-term.
>
> Now, I did say that community fish are a mixture of fish with
> different requirements (which they are), with some such as
> Swordtails) PREFERRING (but not necessarily requiring) somewhat hard
> alkaline water. On the other hand, you may be mixing them in the
> community aquarium with Cardinals, which PREFER soft acid water (but
> do not REQUIRE it). This is why I stated most community fish will do
> well together in water having a total hardness of between 80 ppm
> (MODERATELY soft) to 120 ppm or more (MODERATELY hard), and went on
> to say that most water will be fine just so you avoid the EXTREMES
> (since most fish will adapt to some degree). Your best bet is to
> acclimate the fish to your tap water (if its not to the EXTREME), and
> if its within comfortable tolerances for the fish as this is the
> water that you are going to maintain the tank with, with partial
> weekly water changes of it.
>
> I will point out, now that you've opened up this broad subject, that
> even though the fish (whether wild or farm-raised) may adapt and live
> in your water, they may not necessarily thrive. It DOES NOT MATTER
> where the fish were reared (in the wild, on the farm, or tank
> raised), any given species of fish will ALWAYS do best in the
> environment (read - water conditions) in which its species EVOLVED
> in. That process has taken many millions of years. Although fish
> can adapt and many (but not all) fish may be able to breed in water
> other than what they evolved in, they will ALWAYS do better (their
> BEST) when placed in water "natural" to them -- the water their kind
> evolved in.
>
> I originally mainly brushed on this to alert Kate to the fact that
> (1) soft water is not harmful to most community fish, and (2) very
> hard and alkaline water is mainly required for Rift Lake Cichlids,
> etc., and to avoid extremes. After all, regardless of what water a
> wholesaler or retailer may put fish in, they need not (should not) be
> kept in that water if their requirements are much different. If
> slowly acclimated, they can adapt slowly into water where they'll
> thrive and/or be more comfortable. You wouldn't want to put Lake
> Tanganyika Cichlids in water more suited to Discus and Uaru's, with a
> pH of 5.8 - 6.0 and 3 dGH. Likewise, you wouldn't want to put Discus
> (or any Amazon River inhabitant) in water with a pH of 9.2 and having
> a hardness of up to 500 ppm, or more (29 dGH), which Lake Tanganyika
> can have during certain seasons (and in certain areas). Not only
> will they not thrive, they will not live for very long.
>
> Water from some of the other African lakes can be even more basic,
> with Lake George having a pH of between 9.3 and 9.9, and Lake Rudolph
> having a pH of between 9.4 and 10.0. You better not try keeping
> those fish (or Tanganyicans) in average (pH 6.8 - 7.2) aquarium water
> just because you want to avoid "putting these fish though some
> unnecessary stress." To reiterate, fish will always do best in the
> water their species originally came from, REGARDLESS of the water
> they may have "temporarily" adapted to or how many generations
> they've been raised in conditions other than their species' natural
> environs during the comparative blink of an eye when considering the
> much larger scale of evolution. Each fish made itself, through
> process of elimination, into an entity best suited to the conditions
> found where they developed over eons. You're not going to change
> that preference by "adapting" them to breed in conditions other than
> that, nor is it in their best interest to "avoid" stressing them by
> not putting them back into water best suited for them. They can and
> will adapt when done carefully, and will thank you for it.
>
> Note that I'm not advocating changing your present water conditions,
> unless you actually need to, and there are times you definitely need
> to. If it cannot be done conveniently, the hobbyist should not
> consider keeping that species. Overall, when maintaining the average
> community fish in the average community tank, you want your change
> out (tap) water to be the same as your tank water for ease of
> maintenance and consistence. Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello, all:
> >
> > Been reading the replies from Steve and Ray and I can't argue with
> > anything they said. These two people LOVE the hobby, I can tell.
> (It
> > takes one to know one, and I love it, too.) Haven't seen any
> postings
> > from Lenny lately.(?)
> >
> > Anyway, I just wanted to stick my two cents in here, for what it's
> > worth, and make an observation. Everyone is concerned about where
> the
> > fish come from - meaning their natural habitat, but we can't forget
> > that a lot of these fish are now coming from farms and breeders
> around
> > the areas we live in. If not the immediate we are in, certainly far
> > away from the fish's natural environment. When you are buying new
> > fish, it's a good idea to find out if they were bred locally. Did
> the
> > breeder use anything to try to alter the water to the fishes
> liking?
> > Or did the breeder just use the water from the area as it is?
> >
> > A lot of the "locally grown" fish are already acclimated to the area
> > water they were raised in from fry. If you are once again trying to
> > alter the water back to their "natural environments" we could really
> > be putting these fish through some unnecessary stress.
> >
> > You may want to alter the water to the natural environment
> parameters
> > as much as possible because it stimulates the color or some other
> > reason, but if you're going to do this, it should be done S-L-O-W-L-
> Y!
> > Don't put your fish on a roller coaster ride.
> >
> > Of course, if they are wild - coming from the natural environment -
> > the you would want to alter your water as best you can to the
> > parameters of where they came from. That's another point. If you
> are
> > tanking fish from a completely different kind of water than your
> > area, that's a lot of work to alter! Don't forget you have to do it
> > religiously with all the water changes, or the fish suffer.
> >
> > joet
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23674 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Jim, Okay, somehow I understood (misread) you to say that you had
started out your tank with 3 fish, and then added 5 more a few days
ago. Shows what can happen when you read something too fast and/or
interprete something the way you "want" it to read because you refuse
to let your mind think its made a mistake (LOL). Do pay particular
attention to your nitrIte (NO2) though and keep us informed. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jim Riley <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> Thanks for the reply. Actually, I did mention the
> fish. I have three large Danios.
>
> - Jim
>
> --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...>
> wrote:
>
> > Jim, You have two parameters labeled the same. I
> > presume #2. should
> > read nitrIte (NOT nitrAte). Don't let them confuse
> > you. Nitrite is
> > even more toxic to fish at lower amounts than
> > ammonia. As such, I
> > would start doing 35% water changes now, monitoring
> > the nitrite level
> > as you go. You may need daily water changes for a
> > while or maybe
> > every other day -- your test results will tell you.
> >
> > We do need ammonia test results. I particularly
> > prefer liquid test
> > kits, while others here prefer the strips. My
> > preferred ammonia test
> > kit is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, but just so long as
> > its a good
> > reliable brand, it should be up to the ease of the
> > user reading it.
> > Some people can't distinguish variuos color shading
> > in different
> > brands of test kits.
> >
> > As I suspected, the bioload is comparatively light,
> > but you're still
> > going to need to do some work to keep the water
> > "liveable." Keep us
> > posted on the test results, especially if you need
> > guidance on water
> > changing, etc. Don't touch the filter at this point
> > as its
> > colonizing with beneficial bacteria. Likewise,
> > unless it really
> > needs it, don't clean (vacuum) your gravel yet, and
> > then if you do
> > decide it needs it, only do half this week and the
> > other half next
> > week. It should not need cleaning at this point
> > unless you're
> > overfeeding.
> >
> > Oh, you haven't mentioned the 5 new fish. What kind
> > and how big? Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jim Riley
> > <rjames1973@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ray,
> > >
> > > Here are the particulars of my fish, fish tank,
> > and
> > > current test kit readings:
> > >
> > > I have three large Danios, although they are only
> > > about an inch and a half in length.
> > >
> > > I have a 20 gallon fish tank (2 feet in length and
> > 1
> > > foot in width.)
> > >
> > > Currently:
> > > 1. The nitrate level (NO+3) is at 20
> > > 2. The nitrate level (NO-2) is at .5
> > > 3. The total hardness of the water is 150 (hard)
> > > 4. The chlroine level is 0 (safe)
> > > 5. The alkalinity is 40
> > > 6. The pH is roughly 7.2
> > >
> > > There is no reading for ammonia. I purchased a
> > Jungle
> > > brand test kit bottle. If you have a
> > recommendation
> > > for a better brand of test kit that includes the
> > > ammonia reading, please advise.
> > >
> > > I will peruse the archives to find the answer to
> > my
> > > question about water changes. Please let me know
> > if my
> > > readings warrant an immediate water change. This
> > is
> > > somewhat overwhelming and confusing, but I'm sure
> > I'll
> > > get the hang of it. I just don't want to kill my
> > new
> > > fish, as I just got them a few days ago. Thanks.
> > >
> > > - Jim
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Jim, Both your questions, and your situation
> > can
> > > > be found in the
> > > > archives time and time again, as this one of the
> > > > most frequently
> > > > recurring queries to be asked, and often with
> > very
> > > > similar
> > > > circumstances. I would sincerely suggest you
> > > > research the archive
> > > > after reading my answer.
> > > >
> > > > First of all, unless you use a product named
> > > > Bio-Spira when you first
> > > > set up your tank, you need to "cycle" before
> > adding
> > > > any valuable fish,
> > > > which can take up to 6 weeks, and fish should
> > really
> > > > only be added
> > > > after that time. This may be what the salesman
> > > > meant when he told you
> > > > to wait another 3 weeks (to allow the tank to
> > fully
> > > > cycle) but I'm
> > > > unsure if he knew there were fish in the tank.
> > If
> > > > you told him that
> > > > you had fish in the tank, then he gave you the
> > wrong
> > > > answer, and he
> > > > obviously gave you the wrong answer with your
> > > > purchasing another 5 fish
> > > > (if you bought them from him) as you should be
> > > > checking the water
> > > > parameters of the tank, changing out water as
> > > > necessary for the well
> > > > being of the fish.
> > > >
> > > > You LEAST concern is the pH (although if its in
> > the
> > > > acid range you can
> > > > relax a little). What you need to know, and to
> > > > monitor, is the
> > > > ammonia, and nitrite level (you can monitor the
> > > > nitrate level after the
> > > > tank is established), as these are going to
> > > > increase. I'd advise you
> > > > to either get some test kits cover these, or get
> > one
> > > > master test kit
> > > > that will read all of the above. Ideally, your
> > > > water should read 0
> > > > ammonia and 0 nitrite for the well being of the
> > > > fish, which by the way,
> > > > although you stated you have 3, you don't say
> > what
> > > > size nor do you say
> > > > what size the tank is.
> > > >
> > > > At any rate, I doubt that you'll have 0 readings
> > at
> > > > this point. As
> > > > such you'll need to do some partial water
> > changes
> > > > right now to keep the
> > > > water within tolerances for the fish. At 3
> > weeks,
> > > > your nitrite may
> > > > well be about to spike, as generally does at
> > this
> > > > time during the
> > > > cycling process. Its surprising that the
> > ammonia
> > > > spike which usually
> > > > passes by about now hasn't harmed your fish, but
> > I'm
> > > > only guessing the
> > > > fish are comparatively small with the tank being
> > > > somewhat large (this
> > > > may be how you're getting away with it. With
> > the
> > > > addition of 5 more
> > > > fish, this increased bio-load will add
> > considerably
> > > > to both your
> > > > ammonia and your nitrite levels unless you
> > change
> > > > enough water to
> > > > prevent it until the tank is fully cycled.
> > > >
> > > > After the tank gets cycled, the usual amount of
> > > > water you change out
> > > > weekly is usually between 25% to 35% -- again it
> > > > depends on the size of
> > > > the tank and the amount and size of the fish.
> > As
> > > > you don't seem to be
> > > > aware of this "cycle," this is the procedure of
> > > > establishing nitrifying
> > > > bacteria to convert the fishes' waste products
> > (read
> > > > -- ammonia) into
> > > > nitrite and then from nitrite into nitrate,
> > which is
> > > > necessary as these
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
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> Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos
new Car Finder tool.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23675 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Joet, Right back at you (good hearing from you): Okay, I see where
you're coming from. I believe we're both trying to say the same
thing to some degree, I think you'll agree. Its always best for the
new hobbyist to use the water source (tap water) he has to work with
whenever possible, and maintain fish that will do best in that water,
which will remain fairly consistent. That's the key here -- it
prevents any possible wide swings of the water parameters which might
stress fish out. Depending on the particular area where the hobbyist
lives, the tap water will of course vary (but is usually within
tolerances of most community fish); the most important thing is that
it usually remains fairly the same for the most part.

On another note, which I started to elaborate on, Please do not
misunderstand me if it appeared as if I said any certain fish will
not do good in water parameters foreign to that in which the species
has evolved. It is a given (established fact) for instance, that
tank reared Discus will breed in moderately alkaline water (pH 7.4ish
or so). They will still need the water to be on the soft side as far
as conductivity goes (90 microseimens or less) for the eggs to hatch,
but these Discus can be bred in this type of water. Not so for the
wild Discus, which still require water similar to their natural
habitat (soft & acid) to get them to breed, but continued captivity
does have some impact on our aquarium fish. I do want to point out
here though, that even though these fish may thrive to the point of
breeding in different water, they will still always do their best in
water similar to that in which their species evolved, whenever it can
be provided. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> Good hearing from you Ray.
> Guess it's sure a good thing that I'm not a writer cause you put
much
> more eloquently about the water and fish subject much better than I
> did. What I was try to drive home was mostly meant for new
hobbyists.
> My point was that they can't keep trying to change the water
> conditions the fish are in too fast. And once they do, keeping the
> water to the settings appropriate for the fish, they have to do it
> religiously. You can't adjust the water for one PWC and decide to
> just use the tap water the way it is on the next PWC. So keeping
the
> water parameters for the tank should be consistent or you have the
> "roller coaster" ride. I guess in short what I'm saying is if a
> hobbyist doesn't have the time to do this --and for many, it is the
> fun of doing it -- they should get fish that will thrive in the
water
> of their area. It makes keeping the fish much easier.
>
> joet
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Joet, Yes, I suppose you found me out! Speaking for myself, yes
I
> > do happen to love the hobby and I'm sure Steve too does, as well
as
> > yourself. After reading your post, it appears to me that you may
> > well have misread (or misinterpreted) what I said in my post to
Kate.
> >
> > I'm sure we all realize that many aquarium fish today are captive
> > bred and raised either on farms or in tanks -- some locally
(wherever
> > that might be), some in Florida and some in the Far East, among
other
> > locations. To a good extent, fish can and will adapt to other
water
> > conditions, that's a given! Many (but not all) fish will even
breed
> > in water not found in their original habitat. Often, unless the
fish
> > are locally raised to the area where the wholesaler/distributor
is
> > found, these fish may already be subjected to a "roller-coaster"
> > ride, and while we don't want to put them through any stress,
they
> > have already been subjected to it in most cases.
> >
> > The object of what we should do with our aquarium fish, usually
> > bought through a wholesaler (with different water), and very
possibly
> > subjected to another change of water after reaching the retail
store,
> > is to slowly acclimate them to our aquarium water -- after all,
its
> > our tap water in our aquarium that is going to maintain these
fish
> > hopefully long-term.
> >
> > Now, I did say that community fish are a mixture of fish with
> > different requirements (which they are), with some such as
> > Swordtails) PREFERRING (but not necessarily requiring) somewhat
hard
> > alkaline water. On the other hand, you may be mixing them in the
> > community aquarium with Cardinals, which PREFER soft acid water
(but
> > do not REQUIRE it). This is why I stated most community fish
will do
> > well together in water having a total hardness of between 80 ppm
> > (MODERATELY soft) to 120 ppm or more (MODERATELY hard), and went
on
> > to say that most water will be fine just so you avoid the
EXTREMES
> > (since most fish will adapt to some degree). Your best bet is to
> > acclimate the fish to your tap water (if its not to the EXTREME),
and
> > if its within comfortable tolerances for the fish as this is the
> > water that you are going to maintain the tank with, with partial
> > weekly water changes of it.
> >
> > I will point out, now that you've opened up this broad subject,
that
> > even though the fish (whether wild or farm-raised) may adapt and
live
> > in your water, they may not necessarily thrive. It DOES NOT
MATTER
> > where the fish were reared (in the wild, on the farm, or tank
> > raised), any given species of fish will ALWAYS do best in the
> > environment (read - water conditions) in which its species
EVOLVED
> > in. That process has taken many millions of years. Although
fish
> > can adapt and many (but not all) fish may be able to breed in
water
> > other than what they evolved in, they will ALWAYS do better
(their
> > BEST) when placed in water "natural" to them -- the water their
kind
> > evolved in.
> >
> > I originally mainly brushed on this to alert Kate to the fact
that
> > (1) soft water is not harmful to most community fish, and (2)
very
> > hard and alkaline water is mainly required for Rift Lake
Cichlids,
> > etc., and to avoid extremes. After all, regardless of what water
a
> > wholesaler or retailer may put fish in, they need not (should
not) be
> > kept in that water if their requirements are much different. If
> > slowly acclimated, they can adapt slowly into water where they'll
> > thrive and/or be more comfortable. You wouldn't want to put Lake
> > Tanganyika Cichlids in water more suited to Discus and Uaru's,
with a
> > pH of 5.8 - 6.0 and 3 dGH. Likewise, you wouldn't want to put
Discus
> > (or any Amazon River inhabitant) in water with a pH of 9.2 and
having
> > a hardness of up to 500 ppm, or more (29 dGH), which Lake
Tanganyika
> > can have during certain seasons (and in certain areas). Not only
> > will they not thrive, they will not live for very long.
> >
> > Water from some of the other African lakes can be even more
basic,
> > with Lake George having a pH of between 9.3 and 9.9, and Lake
Rudolph
> > having a pH of between 9.4 and 10.0. You better not try keeping
> > those fish (or Tanganyicans) in average (pH 6.8 - 7.2) aquarium
water
> > just because you want to avoid "putting these fish though some
> > unnecessary stress." To reiterate, fish will always do best in
the
> > water their species originally came from, REGARDLESS of the water
> > they may have "temporarily" adapted to or how many generations
> > they've been raised in conditions other than their species'
natural
> > environs during the comparative blink of an eye when considering
the
> > much larger scale of evolution. Each fish made itself, through
> > process of elimination, into an entity best suited to the
conditions
> > found where they developed over eons. You're not going to change
> > that preference by "adapting" them to breed in conditions other
than
> > that, nor is it in their best interest to "avoid" stressing them
by
> > not putting them back into water best suited for them. They can
and
> > will adapt when done carefully, and will thank you for it.
> >
> > Note that I'm not advocating changing your present water
conditions,
> > unless you actually need to, and there are times you definitely
need
> > to. If it cannot be done conveniently, the hobbyist should not
> > consider keeping that species. Overall, when maintaining the
average
> > community fish in the average community tank, you want your
change
> > out (tap) water to be the same as your tank water for ease of
> > maintenance and consistence. Ray
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello, all:
> > >
> > > Been reading the replies from Steve and Ray and I can't argue
with
> > > anything they said. These two people LOVE the hobby, I can
tell.
> > (It
> > > takes one to know one, and I love it, too.) Haven't seen any
> > postings
> > > from Lenny lately.(?)
> > >
> > > Anyway, I just wanted to stick my two cents in here, for what
it's
> > > worth, and make an observation. Everyone is concerned about
where
> > the
> > > fish come from - meaning their natural habitat, but we can't
forget
> > > that a lot of these fish are now coming from farms and breeders
> > around
> > > the areas we live in. If not the immediate we are in, certainly
far
> > > away from the fish's natural environment. When you are buying
new
> > > fish, it's a good idea to find out if they were bred locally.
Did
> > the
> > > breeder use anything to try to alter the water to the fishes
> > liking?
> > > Or did the breeder just use the water from the area as it is?
> > >
> > > A lot of the "locally grown" fish are already acclimated to the
area
> > > water they were raised in from fry. If you are once again
trying to
> > > alter the water back to their "natural environments" we could
really
> > > be putting these fish through some unnecessary stress.
> > >
> > > You may want to alter the water to the natural environment
> > parameters
> > > as much as possible because it stimulates the color or some
other
> > > reason, but if you're going to do this, it should be done S-L-O-
W-L-
> > Y!
> > > Don't put your fish on a roller coaster ride.
> > >
> > > Of course, if they are wild - coming from the natural
environment -
> > > the you would want to alter your water as best you can to the
> > > parameters of where they came from. That's another point. If
you
> > are
> > > tanking fish from a completely different kind of water than
your
> > > area, that's a lot of work to alter! Don't forget you have to
do it
> > > religiously with all the water changes, or the fish suffer.
> > >
> > > joet
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23676 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Thanks

Lisa

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
You're not butting in. There are thousands of members who receive these
posts/emails and anyone is welcome to ask questions or add comments to
anything posted by anyone. It's how we all learn more. I even have a
"Dictionary" blog page set up for all of the acronyms and unusual words that
we use in the hobby.

KH is Carbonate Hardness and GH is General Hardness. KH plays a big part in
keeping the pH stabile. If the KH drops too low, the pH can crash which can
cause severe stress and/or death to fish. GH is the total hardness which
some kits measure as "total alkalinity" and the readings can be in ppm
(parts per million) or dH (degrees of Hardness). This site has more info on
KH and keeping it at proper levels using good ol' "Baking Soda".
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp For heavily stocked tanks or
tanks with dirty fish (like my goldfish), keeping the KH at proper levels is
critical if someone has low pH and/or soft water that would be more prone to
a pH crash compared to someone with higher pH and/or hard water. Or for
people that go long periods between doing PWC's (partial water changes)
since the various "good" bacteria also utilize lots of KH in processing the
fish waste, etc.

My blog page, "A to Z of Fishkeeping" has links to other pages and two
different tutorials that cover the beginning aspects of water chemistry,
testing, etc.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 4:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

I don't mean to butt in, but what does KH and GH stand for? I am going to be
setting up a new tank here soon and would like to keep up with it a little
better. I use to think that if the fish survive it must be fine, but the
more I read on these posts, the more I realize how much of an amateur I am.

Lisa from Illinois

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
I just posted a reply to Kate which answers most of your questions.

You should get a good Master Test Kit and start testing your water daily and
keeping a log and if you want, post a copy of your log so that we can look
at the numbers and give you more accurate information.

Your "pet store salesman" obviously doesn't know fish from a hole in his
head. There is much more than just pH which needs to be monitored and
analyzed... especially in the first few months that a tank is set up.

Read my blog on Master Test Kits (main link in my sig and then on the right
is the link to "Everybody needs a good Master Test Kit". You should
definitely have tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH but having GH and
KH are also very helpful. API sells a pretty good test kit which tests for
all of these things. You can usually find it online or at PetsMart.com for
under $20.00 and this will last you around a year or more. The local
PetsMart stores will match their online prices if you print out the page and
tell the cashier about the online price. I save 20-50% off shelf prices this
way.

While you are at my blog, also read the page called "A to Z of Fishkeeping
for Beginners" which has some very good resources to help you including two
different online tutorials that you can take which will help teach you about
"The Nitrogen Cycle" and many other very important parts of fishkeeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a fish
tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with three
tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then bought the
fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store salesman that I
should wait about three more weeks before I perform a slight water change,
as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm trying to determine if I
should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent water change. What is recommended
in this case? Is there any special equipment I should purchase to prepare
for this process? Thanks for helping out a newbie to this hobby!


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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23677 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Petco Plants
I recently bought some plants from Live Aquaria.com, and they are
doing great. Where do you live that they won't ship to your house?

The only other thing I would say is that if you have to get plants at
a 'super' pet store, get the names of the plants (or fish, for that
matter) both scientific and common if possible. Then go home and do
your research. You would have to make an extra trip, but it would be
worth it to know a little bit more about your purchase when you go to
buy them. Any livestock from a big chain pet store is suspect, if you
ask me. But I have also been handed bum steers by my local 'mom and
pop' aquarium shop. (I still have a terrestrial plant they sold to me
that is slowly turning black and has massive hair algae on it.) So in
the end, research and experience will make sure you know exactly what
you're getting.


> I was just at Petco and bought a pretty looking 8" Pongol
> Sword "Chlorophytum Bichetii". After reading about it online, it
seems
> more like a terrarium plant than anything else. Apparently it can
last
> in an aquarium, without harming the biological balance of the
aquarium.
> Anyone had any luck with this plant or something similar? I know
Petco
> is not the choice place to get plants, but shipping them to my
house is
> dang near impossible and Petco is the only pet store within a 45
min
> drive distance. Any suggestions would be great! Thanks!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23678 From: kate hardy Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
It kindof sound like an appetizer huh. lol

We do have pretty great stores here. And one of the Cherry Shrimp is pregnant which should be fun since they are livebearers. I will take pics when I have a chance. By the way does anyone know if I should do anything to protect the babies? Will the Rasboras eat them? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

Thanks!
Kate

Aaron <massagetherapist@...> wrote:


mmm, cherry shrimp glosso, yummy ~ sounds like an appetizer I had at
that Thai restaurant downtown,

;^)

Kate,

You must have some really nice LFS there, I have never seen Glosso or
cherry shrimp anywhere around where I live in the East Bay Area of
San Fran

Glosso is a great plant, it will nicely blanket the bottom of the
tank given a real appealing look, Amano says to plant each "stem?"
individually and spaced apart a bit so they can have room to grow, I
saw video of him doing a demonstration on it and he was using
tweezers - very meticulous work

The Cherry Shrimp are apparently eager breeders, I've seen
individuals advertise them online at relatively inexpensive prices
compared to the big online companies

Please upload some new pics when you get a chance so we (i) can see
how your aquarium is progressing

take care

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
>...
> I grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry
Shrimp I couldn't resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of
the tank now include 3 Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp.
I've thought about adding a pair of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping
there.
>
> As always thank you for the info!!
> Kate






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23679 From: kate hardy Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Hi Lenny,
Sorry for the lag, I just saw this. For some reason it went to my bulk mail folder. There were tiny brown, cylindrical things all over the tank. I threw some water in a bag with them and took it to the fish store and they said bacteria. They could have been wrong. They looked like fish poop honestly but I didn't have fish at that point.

As for the hardness, I think I'll test some of the RO right out of the tap next time and see what it reads. It seems to be doing well so far. I'll just make sure I watch whatever I put in the tank for water changes to make sure it doesn't get too hard.
Thanks,
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
What do you mean by "I'm not seeing the bacteria I was before"??? Bacteria
is generally microscopic so it's not something we can see and for the most
part, we can't test for it either unless you view your water samples, fish
scrapings under a microscope.

If your tap has no hardness reading, then something in your tank is leaching
into your water. This may not be a bad thing but you should at least
identify what it is in case it starts making the water too hard for your
fish or changing too much, too fast for your fish (or plants).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
The reason my tap and tank water were so different is I was not using the
tap water. I was using entirely RO water which, despite what I've read on
this list, doesn't seem to be giving too horrid of readings. I think someone
mentioned there could be a crack in the RO tank. I may have to mention that
to my parents. It's their system. When the RO water is gone it will spit out
regular tapwater until the tank builds back up and Park City water is pretty
good so it's possible I was still filling the jugs after the RO was gone
too.

My tank numbers are exactly what they were when I posted last Thursday other
than the alkalinity has gone from 180 to 120. I haven't done the water
change yet this week. The log is a great idea. I've been meaning to start
one since I started the tank in May but just haven't. I'm a terrible
procrastinator.

The tank does seem to be looking quite a bit better this week. I'm not
seeing the bacteria I was before. I think adding more plants helped. I
grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry Shrimp I couldn't
resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the tank now include 3
Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp. I've thought about adding a pair
of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.

As always thank you for the info!!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We also
do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those numbers
and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned and
recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark brown
as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23680 From: Jim Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Ammonia Levels
I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20 gallon freshwater
tank. For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger level
(green). Is there something I can do to bring it down without killing
the fish? What might be the issue? Thanks.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23681 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Hi Jim,



Are all your fish accounted for?  If any are missing, that may be the source.  A dead fish hidden in the tank will cause the ammonia.  Any places where uneaten food may have accumulated?  Sometimes that can be the problem.



Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim <rjames1973@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 4:06 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels







I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20 gallon freshwater
tank. For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger level
(green). Is there something I can do to bring it down without killing
the fish? What might be the issue? Thanks.

- Jim





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23682 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Mike,

Thanks for the response. I only have three fish, which
are Danios. They are all alive and well. I cleaned the
gravel when I changed the water, so I don't think
there is any food piled up anywhere. I'll just have to
keep checking the ammonia level. I am refraining from
feeding them at the moment, which might help.

- Jim

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Hi Jim,
>
>
>
> Are all your fish accounted for?  If any are
> missing, that may be the source.  A dead fish hidden
> in the tank will cause the ammonia.  Any places
> where uneaten food may have accumulated?  Sometimes
> that can be the problem.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim <rjames1973@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 4:06 pm
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20
> gallon freshwater
> tank. For some reason, the ammonia level is at the
> danger level
> (green). Is there something I can do to bring it
> down without killing
> the fish? What might be the issue? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
> Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check
> out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23683 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Jim, Okay, now you know why you need to cycle a tank before you add
fish; one lesson learned. As for what's next to help keep the fish
happy, do some 50% water changes since 20% is obviously not enough to
lower the ammonia level. The issue is that the ammonia has reached the
point in the cycle that its spiking. The ammonia will spike first --
generally at around 10 days into the cycle -- but since your bioload is
light, this time period has been extended. The ammonia spikes as there
is not yet enough bacteria to convert in into nitrite. The nitrite
will spike after about another 10 days or so, since there is not yet
enough bacteria to convert that into nitrate. There are 2 types of
nitrifying bacteria in the nitrogen cycle (nitrosoma, which act on the
ammonia, and nitobacters which act on the nitrite). Do a water change
tonight then another one tomorrow and give us a reading after that.
You will still have to continue water changes after that, but it might
not need such large ones; the test results will determine that. Ray -
-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20 gallon freshwater
> tank. For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger level
> (green). Is there something I can do to bring it down without killing
> the fish? What might be the issue? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23684 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Jim, Do not clean the gravel at this stage -- unless its really
necessary from you overfeeding and there is an accumulation of excess
food lying about. While the filter will be building up most of the
nitrifying bacteria in the system, the second most populous area for
these bacteria to grow in is your gravel, so try and wait until the
tank is cycled before cleaning the gravel, if you can. After you do
finally completely cycle your tank and you're doing regular
maintenance, only clean half of the gravel every other week and clean
the opposite half on the in between weeks (every other week).
Likewise for your filter material (when you get to finally clean it,
and then, don't ever rinse the filter medium under tap water but use
some aquarium water in a bucket. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Jim Riley <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Thanks for the response. I only have three fish, which
> are Danios. They are all alive and well. I cleaned the
> gravel when I changed the water, so I don't think
> there is any food piled up anywhere. I'll just have to
> keep checking the ammonia level. I am refraining from
> feeding them at the moment, which might help.
>
> - Jim
>
> --- Deenerz@... wrote:
>
> >
> > Hi Jim,
> >
> >
> >
> > Are all your fish accounted for?  If any are
> > missing, that may be the source.  A dead fish hidden
> > in the tank will cause the ammonia.  Any places
> > where uneaten food may have accumulated?  Sometimes
> > that can be the problem.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jim <rjames1973@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 4:06 pm
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20
> > gallon freshwater
> > tank. For some reason, the ammonia level is at the
> > danger level
> > (green). Is there something I can do to bring it
> > down without killing
> > the fish? What might be the issue? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
__
> > Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check
> > out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's
updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
> http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23685 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
Fish will eat the baby shrimp but if you have enough dense plants like java
moss, guppy grass, etc., then some will likely survive. I have a cherry
shrimp planted 10G tank that started with 25 cherry shrimp and there must be
100 now. Several females are constantly carrying eggs. I'm not sure if
"pregnant" is the proper term since the eggs are technically carried outside
of the body, under the tail and are constantly rotated by the swimmeret's so
the eggs are constantly exposed to O2 rich water.

You should also put a filter media bag over the intake of your filter so the
shrimpettes do not get sucked into the filter. Some people put a sponge but
aquarium sponges are open cell sponges so the shrimp could technically crawl
through the sponge and get sucked into the filter. That's why I use the
fine mesh filter media bag. I leave the filter media bag tied on to the
intake tube on top of the existing filter screen. The shrimp spend a lot of
time on the filter media bag eating anything caught by the filter media bag
mesh.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 4:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] pregnant cherry shrimp question

It kindof sound like an appetizer huh. lol

We do have pretty great stores here. And one of the Cherry Shrimp is
pregnant which should be fun since they are livebearers. I will take pics
when I have a chance. By the way does anyone know if I should do anything to
protect the babies? Will the Rasboras eat them? Sorry if that's a dumb
question.

Thanks!
Kate

Aaron <massagetherapist@... <mailto:massagetherapist%40mail.com> >
wrote:


mmm, cherry shrimp glosso, yummy ~ sounds like an appetizer I had at that
Thai restaurant downtown,

;^)

Kate,

You must have some really nice LFS there, I have never seen Glosso or cherry
shrimp anywhere around where I live in the East Bay Area of San Fran

Glosso is a great plant, it will nicely blanket the bottom of the tank given
a real appealing look, Amano says to plant each "stem?"
individually and spaced apart a bit so they can have room to grow, I saw
video of him doing a demonstration on it and he was using tweezers - very
meticulous work

The Cherry Shrimp are apparently eager breeders, I've seen individuals
advertise them online at relatively inexpensive prices compared to the big
online companies

Please upload some new pics when you get a chance so we (i) can see how your
aquarium is progressing

take care

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
>...
> I grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry
Shrimp I couldn't resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the
tank now include 3 Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp.
I've thought about adding a pair of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.
>
> As always thank you for the info!!
> Kate


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23686 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Hmmmm... sounds like your fish store is full of BS (bacteria syndrome..
lol). From your description, it sounds like snails to me... especially if
you could see them with your naked eye. Were they on the glass? Did you
have some live plants at that point?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 5:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
Sorry for the lag, I just saw this. For some reason it went to my bulk mail
folder. There were tiny brown, cylindrical things all over the tank. I threw
some water in a bag with them and took it to the fish store and they said
bacteria. They could have been wrong. They looked like fish poop honestly
but I didn't have fish at that point.

As for the hardness, I think I'll test some of the RO right out of the tap
next time and see what it reads. It seems to be doing well so far. I'll just
make sure I watch whatever I put in the tank for water changes to make sure
it doesn't get too hard.
Thanks,
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
What do you mean by "I'm not seeing the bacteria I was before"??? Bacteria
is generally microscopic so it's not something we can see and for the most
part, we can't test for it either unless you view your water samples, fish
scrapings under a microscope.

If your tap has no hardness reading, then something in your tank is leaching
into your water. This may not be a bad thing but you should at least
identify what it is in case it starts making the water too hard for your
fish or changing too much, too fast for your fish (or plants).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
The reason my tap and tank water were so different is I was not using the
tap water. I was using entirely RO water which, despite what I've read on
this list, doesn't seem to be giving too horrid of readings. I think someone
mentioned there could be a crack in the RO tank. I may have to mention that
to my parents. It's their system. When the RO water is gone it will spit out
regular tapwater until the tank builds back up and Park City water is pretty
good so it's possible I was still filling the jugs after the RO was gone
too.

My tank numbers are exactly what they were when I posted last Thursday other
than the alkalinity has gone from 180 to 120. I haven't done the water
change yet this week. The log is a great idea. I've been meaning to start
one since I started the tank in May but just haven't. I'm a terrible
procrastinator.

The tank does seem to be looking quite a bit better this week. I'm not
seeing the bacteria I was before. I think adding more plants helped. I
grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry Shrimp I couldn't
resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the tank now include 3
Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp. I've thought about adding a pair
of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.

As always thank you for the info!!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We also
do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those numbers
and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned and
recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark brown
as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx
<http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23687 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Do you know what the green level means as far as ppm (parts per million) or
mgl (milligrams per liter), which btw, are the same thing? What brand/type
of tap water dechlor do you have? What is the ammonia level of your tap
water? What is the pH of your tap and tank? What size tank and how many
and what types of fish? How long has it been set up? Did you fishless
cycle or use Bio-Spira? I know you may have answered these questions before
but I belong to several fish groups and forums and can't remember everything
about everyone's tank.

The "issue" is likely that your tank is still "cycling" or going through a
mini-cycle. If you added more fish, the nitrifying bacteria (the good ones)
in your filter and other surface areas of the tank have not grown a large
enough colony to eat all the ammonia your fish are putting out. Speaking of
filters... did you recently change out your filter cartridge? I know most
filter companies tell people to change their filters every few weeks but
especially in a newly set up tank, this is HORRIBLE advice as you are
throwing away all of your good nitrifying bacteria that is growing in the
filter media (polypad, floss, sponge, etc.). Are you vacuuming your gravel
with each PWC? If not, waste and uneaten food could be decomposing in the
gravel which puts out ammonia, CO2, etc.

Read my blog on "Filter Maintenance and Cleaning" so you will learn the
proper ways to clean your filters so you do not throw your tank into a
mini-cycle each time you do filter maintenance. Look for the link on the
right side of the main blog link in my sig.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20 gallon freshwater tank.
For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger level (green). Is there
something I can do to bring it down without killing the fish? What might be
the issue? Thanks.

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23688 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Lenny,

Thanks for your help on the ammonia level issue. Per
your advice, I performed a second PWC (about 50%) a
short while ago. I just took another ammonia reading
and the level is still at the stress level. I will
perform another PWC tomorrow, as I am exhausted from
my day. I will let you know how things turn out and
will answer your questions then. Thanks!

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Do you know what the green level means as far as ppm
> (parts per million) or
> mgl (milligrams per liter), which btw, are the same
> thing? What brand/type
> of tap water dechlor do you have? What is the
> ammonia level of your tap
> water? What is the pH of your tap and tank? What
> size tank and how many
> and what types of fish? How long has it been set
> up? Did you fishless
> cycle or use Bio-Spira? I know you may have
> answered these questions before
> but I belong to several fish groups and forums and
> can't remember everything
> about everyone's tank.
>
> The "issue" is likely that your tank is still
> "cycling" or going through a
> mini-cycle. If you added more fish, the nitrifying
> bacteria (the good ones)
> in your filter and other surface areas of the tank
> have not grown a large
> enough colony to eat all the ammonia your fish are
> putting out. Speaking of
> filters... did you recently change out your filter
> cartridge? I know most
> filter companies tell people to change their filters
> every few weeks but
> especially in a newly set up tank, this is HORRIBLE
> advice as you are
> throwing away all of your good nitrifying bacteria
> that is growing in the
> filter media (polypad, floss, sponge, etc.). Are
> you vacuuming your gravel
> with each PWC? If not, waste and uneaten food could
> be decomposing in the
> gravel which puts out ammonia, CO2, etc.
>
> Read my blog on "Filter Maintenance and Cleaning" so
> you will learn the
> proper ways to clean your filters so you do not
> throw your tank into a
> mini-cycle each time you do filter maintenance.
> Look for the link on the
> right side of the main blog link in my sig.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
> I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20
> gallon freshwater tank.
> For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger
> level (green). Is there
> something I can do to bring it down without killing
> the fish? What might be
> the issue? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 -
> Release Date: 8/23/2007
> 4:04 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23689 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: water testing
I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone knows of a chart or something along those lines to record testing results and show exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are incredible and I love this group. I have learned so much already. I got lucky with my hexagon tank I already have set up, considering I did the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am almost ready to set up a new tank but I am researching more before I get it started so I can do it the right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa


---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23690 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Hi Jim,

You didn't give me much info as far as my questions but here is a page that
explains ammonia toxicity and the relationship between ammonia, pH and water
temperature. http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

If your tests do not give you an actual number, then maybe somewhere in the
instructions it will at least give you a range of what the "green" means.
It could be 1.0ppm or 5.0ppm or whatever... make sure the next kit you get
gives actual numbers or at least explains what the colors mean.

Also, if your pH is on the low side, 7.0 or below, then ammonia is not
nearly as toxic than if your pH is up near 8.0 or above. The above site
will explain this.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Lenny,

Thanks for your help on the ammonia level issue. Per your advice, I
performed a second PWC (about 50%) a short while ago. I just took another
ammonia reading and the level is still at the stress level. I will perform
another PWC tomorrow, as I am exhausted from my day. I will let you know how
things turn out and will answer your questions then. Thanks!

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> Do you know what the green level means as far as ppm (parts per
> million) or mgl (milligrams per liter), which btw, are the same thing?
> What brand/type of tap water dechlor do you have? What is the ammonia
> level of your tap water? What is the pH of your tap and tank? What
> size tank and how many and what types of fish? How long has it been
> set up? Did you fishless cycle or use Bio-Spira? I know you may have
> answered these questions before but I belong to several fish groups
> and forums and can't remember everything about everyone's tank.
>
> The "issue" is likely that your tank is still "cycling" or going
> through a mini-cycle. If you added more fish, the nitrifying bacteria
> (the good ones) in your filter and other surface areas of the tank
> have not grown a large enough colony to eat all the ammonia your fish
> are putting out. Speaking of filters... did you recently change out
> your filter cartridge? I know most filter companies tell people to
> change their filters every few weeks but especially in a newly set up
> tank, this is HORRIBLE advice as you are throwing away all of your
> good nitrifying bacteria that is growing in the filter media (polypad,
> floss, sponge, etc.). Are you vacuuming your gravel with each PWC? If
> not, waste and uneaten food could be decomposing in the gravel which
> puts out ammonia, CO2, etc.
>
> Read my blog on "Filter Maintenance and Cleaning" so you will learn
> the proper ways to clean your filters so you do not throw your tank
> into a mini-cycle each time you do filter maintenance.
> Look for the link on the
> right side of the main blog link in my sig.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
> I just performed a 20 percent water change on my 20 gallon freshwater
> tank.
> For some reason, the ammonia level is at the danger level (green). Is
> there something I can do to bring it down without killing the fish?
> What might be the issue? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23691 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/24/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
For newbie's with a brand new tank, daily testing could be in order....
especially if you are stuck with "cycling with fish" because some
ill-informed pet store employee told you to do it that way... so you will
know when to do PWC's to keep the water non-toxic for the fish. Oh yeah...
the pet store employee didn't tell you that you might have to do daily PWC's
to keep the water safe/non-toxic for the fish.

If you are "fishless cycling"... the smart and inexpensive choice... then
daily testing is done in order to know when to add more ammonia and to know
when the ammonia spike and nitrite spikes happen and when they are both down
to 0.0ppm so you would know when the tank is safe for fish.

If you have extra money and decided to purchase Bio-Spira, then daily
testing would be in order for the first week or so to make sure you didn't
get an un-refrigerated package which might not work properly. After that,
then weekly testing to monthly testing... or as needed depending on if the
fish are acting unusual or not.

I guess that's why there's not a standardized "chart" of how often or when
to test... because there are too many variables involved in the "cycling" of
the tank.

To be safe, test daily in the beginning until you are sure your tank is
fully "cycled", then drop to weekly and eventually drop to monthly once you
are certain the tank is stabile and you have your filter maintenance and PWC
schedule in order. Remember that as the fish grow, they put out more and
more waste so the filter maintenance and PWC frequency will probably need to
be increased to keep up with the waste and additional bioload.

There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that folks can
download and use to keep track of their test results and "see" what is
happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter maintenance affect the
numbers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:54 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] water testing

I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about
water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone knows
of a chart or something along those lines to record testing results and show
exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are incredible and I love
this group. I have learned so much already. I got lucky with my hexagon tank
I already have set up, considering I did the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am
almost ready to set up a new tank but I am researching more before I get it
started so I can do it the right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23692 From: Jim Riley Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Lenny,

I performed a 50% water change last night and another
water change this morning (20-25%). After taking a
reading a little while ago, the ammonia level is still
in the green (0.5 ppm).

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> You didn't give me much info as far as my questions
> but here is a page that
> explains ammonia toxicity and the relationship
> between ammonia, pH and water
> temperature.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> If your tests do not give you an actual number, then
> maybe somewhere in the
> instructions it will at least give you a range of
> what the "green" means.
> It could be 1.0ppm or 5.0ppm or whatever... make
> sure the next kit you get
> gives actual numbers or at least explains what the
> colors mean.
>
> Also, if your pH is on the low side, 7.0 or below,
> then ammonia is not
> nearly as toxic than if your pH is up near 8.0 or
> above. The above site
> will explain this.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
> Lenny,
>
> Thanks for your help on the ammonia level issue. Per
> your advice, I
> performed a second PWC (about 50%) a short while
> ago. I just took another
> ammonia reading and the level is still at the stress
> level. I will perform
> another PWC tomorrow, as I am exhausted from my day.
> I will let you know how
> things turn out and will answer your questions then.
> Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > Do you know what the green level means as far as
> ppm (parts per
> > million) or mgl (milligrams per liter), which btw,
> are the same thing?
> > What brand/type of tap water dechlor do you have?
> What is the ammonia
> > level of your tap water? What is the pH of your
> tap and tank? What
> > size tank and how many and what types of fish? How
> long has it been
> > set up? Did you fishless cycle or use Bio-Spira? I
> know you may have
> > answered these questions before but I belong to
> several fish groups
> > and forums and can't remember everything about
> everyone's tank.
> >
> > The "issue" is likely that your tank is still
> "cycling" or going
> > through a mini-cycle. If you added more fish, the
> nitrifying bacteria
> > (the good ones) in your filter and other surface
> areas of the tank
> > have not grown a large enough colony to eat all
> the ammonia your fish
> > are putting out. Speaking of filters... did you
> recently change out
> > your filter cartridge? I know most filter
> companies tell people to
> > change their filters every few weeks but
> especially in a newly set up
> > tank, this is HORRIBLE advice as you are throwing
> away all of your
> > good nitrifying bacteria that is growing in the
> filter media (polypad,
> > floss, sponge, etc.). Are you vacuuming your
> gravel with each PWC? If
> > not, waste and uneaten food could be decomposing
> in the gravel which
> > puts out ammonia, CO2, etc.
> >
> > Read my blog on "Filter Maintenance and Cleaning"
> so you will learn
> > the proper ways to clean your filters so you do
> not throw your tank
> > into a mini-cycle each time you do filter
> maintenance.
> > Look for the link on the
> > right side of the main blog link in my sig.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of Jim
> > Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
> >
> > I just performed a 20 percent water change on my
> 20 gallon freshwater
> > tank.
> > For some reason, the ammonia level is at the
> danger level (green). Is
> > there something I can do to bring it down without
> killing the fish?
> > What might be the issue? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 -
> Release Date: 8/23/2007
> 4:04 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23693 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Kate,

I've not seen a comment on it, but your testing shows no hardness to your tap water. I would expect to see at least a 1 or 2 for your total hardness. Take about 1 oz. of water and place it into a container you can seal and add a drop of dishwashing detergent to it. Close the container and shake. Continue to add drops until you get suds upon shaking the container with the water. The more drops you need to create suds, the harder your water is. There is a correlation to the number of drops used and the amount of hardness, but, frankly, I don't remember this correlation (i.e. 1-5 drops = soft water - 5-10 drops = moderately hard, etc). If you are much closer to school than I am, you may have some memory of this easy experiment being performed along with the correlation of drops of detergent to hardness. A web search with the correct terms should also turn something up.

As it is, I see no need to be using RO water for your fish. While the pH seems to be a bit high for the rasboras, they should acclimate to it without a problem, and if your water is truly as soft as you claim with your testing, you should be able to breed them quite easily. I do not know what pH the cherry shrimp you mention having bought prefer, so I would suggest checking that out, but I would surmise they could also stand the slight increase in pH.

Just a note for all those reading these messages. While pH often allows one to guess what the water hardness would be, high pH meaning harder water, this is not always true. There are places that exist in nature where water is very hard, but the pH of the water is below 7.0, a seeming contradiction, as well as places where water is very soft and pH is above 7.0. pH (note it is ALWAYS lower case "p" and upper case "h", even at the start of a sentence) is not a measurement of the hardness of water, but measures something else entirely. While it often shows a relationship with water hardness, it does not always, and this should not be considered to be a rule that higher pH means harder water.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley <lowjack989@...> wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23694 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Frankly, I am surprised that more people have not jumped in here. It
seems that everyone has an opinion on changing water ranging from a
"drip" system that provides for continuous water changes to those who
say they never change water at all--they just top off their tanks when
needed.

Water changes in a closed system such as your aquarium serve an
important purpose. Natural systems with a few exceptions (think Great
Salt Lake and vernal ponds among a few others) offer the critters that
live in bodies of water an eternal water change. In a closed system, we
do the best we can to provide a regular water change to somewhat emulate
what nature does as mater of course. Water changes will help one
maintain manageable amounts of toxins and other substances that will
occur as a result of biological actions. Evaporation of water will also
increase the concentration of those mentioned substances as well as
concentrate minerals that may be found in your water.

The minimum suggested water change would be 10% per week. This would
mean that you would remove enough water to replace it with an amount
that equals 10% of the volume of water in the tank. If you had a tank
with 100 gallons of water, and lost 2 gallons to evaporation, you would
remove 8 gallons and replace it with 10 gallons to make a 10% water
change.

Suggested amounts of water change would range from 10% to 25%. High
amounts may be recommended for specific situations, as well as more
frequent water changes. However, for most display tanks, water changes
of 10-25% are usually sufficient to maintain a good environment for your
fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 4:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a
fish tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with
three tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then
bought the fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store
salesman that I should wait about three more weeks before I perform a
slight water change, as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm
trying to determine if I should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent
water change. What is recommended in this case? Is there any special
equipment I should purchase to prepare for this process? Thanks for
helping out a newbie to this hobby!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23695 From: Hamrad Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Could not find the exec file you mentioned in the Group's file section.

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] water testing


For newbie's with a brand new tank, daily testing could be in order....
especially if you are stuck with "cycling with fish" because some
ill-informed pet store employee told you to do it that way... so you will
know when to do PWC's to keep the water non-toxic for the fish. Oh yeah...
the pet store employee didn't tell you that you might have to do daily PWC's
to keep the water safe/non-toxic for the fish.

If you are "fishless cycling"... the smart and inexpensive choice... then
daily testing is done in order to know when to add more ammonia and to know
when the ammonia spike and nitrite spikes happen and when they are both down
to 0.0ppm so you would know when the tank is safe for fish.

If you have extra money and decided to purchase Bio-Spira, then daily
testing would be in order for the first week or so to make sure you didn't
get an un-refrigerated package which might not work properly. After that,
then weekly testing to monthly testing... or as needed depending on if the
fish are acting unusual or not.

I guess that's why there's not a standardized "chart" of how often or when
to test... because there are too many variables involved in the "cycling" of
the tank.

To be safe, test daily in the beginning until you are sure your tank is
fully "cycled", then drop to weekly and eventually drop to monthly once you
are certain the tank is stabile and you have your filter maintenance and PWC
schedule in order. Remember that as the fish grow, they put out more and
more waste so the filter maintenance and PWC frequency will probably need to
be increased to keep up with the waste and additional bioload.

There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that folks can
download and use to keep track of their test results and "see" what is
happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter maintenance affect the
numbers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:54 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] water testing

I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about
water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone knows
of a chart or something along those lines to record testing results and show
exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are incredible and I love
this group. I have learned so much already. I got lucky with my hexagon tank
I already have set up, considering I did the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am
almost ready to set up a new tank but I am researching more before I get it
started so I can do it the right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23696 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
you beat me to it... I was just going to say the same thing. I looked through everything and couldn't find it either but in the meantime I found some very helpful info in there.

Hamrad <hamrad@...> wrote: Could not find the exec file you mentioned in the Group's file section.

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] water testing


For newbie's with a brand new tank, daily testing could be in order....
especially if you are stuck with "cycling with fish" because some
ill-informed pet store employee told you to do it that way... so you will
know when to do PWC's to keep the water non-toxic for the fish. Oh yeah...
the pet store employee didn't tell you that you might have to do daily PWC's
to keep the water safe/non-toxic for the fish.

If you are "fishless cycling"... the smart and inexpensive choice... then
daily testing is done in order to know when to add more ammonia and to know
when the ammonia spike and nitrite spikes happen and when they are both down
to 0.0ppm so you would know when the tank is safe for fish.

If you have extra money and decided to purchase Bio-Spira, then daily
testing would be in order for the first week or so to make sure you didn't
get an un-refrigerated package which might not work properly. After that,
then weekly testing to monthly testing... or as needed depending on if the
fish are acting unusual or not.

I guess that's why there's not a standardized "chart" of how often or when
to test... because there are too many variables involved in the "cycling" of
the tank.

To be safe, test daily in the beginning until you are sure your tank is
fully "cycled", then drop to weekly and eventually drop to monthly once you
are certain the tank is stabile and you have your filter maintenance and PWC
schedule in order. Remember that as the fish grow, they put out more and
more waste so the filter maintenance and PWC frequency will probably need to
be increased to keep up with the waste and additional bioload.

There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that folks can
download and use to keep track of their test results and "see" what is
happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter maintenance affect the
numbers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:54 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] water testing

I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about
water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone knows
of a chart or something along those lines to record testing results and show
exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are incredible and I love
this group. I have learned so much already. I got lucky with my hexagon tank
I already have set up, considering I did the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am
almost ready to set up a new tank but I am researching more before I get it
started so I can do it the right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.4/969 - Release Date: 8/23/2007
4:04 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23697 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Wher did the fish come from?
Joet,

Like Ray, I have years of experience to back up my observations, and a
fairly extensive library upon which to draw upon should I not have an
answer at the tip of my fingers. Also, like Ray probably has, I do have
a fairly large network of friends and acquaintances in the hobby to draw
upon for answers I do not have or experience in a topic I may not be
well versed in.

Water quality is a vast topic, and much has been written about it.
However, we do not need to concern ourselves with much of it, just what
concerns us directly. We only need to watch a few parameters and track
them. The most important part of understanding the water in our tanks is
to understand the nitrogen cycle, where ammonia is produced, changed to
nitrite and then nitrate. Failure to understand this leads to most
problems in the aquarium. This is sometimes known as the biological
cycle.

Back when Ray and I were new to the hobby, back in pre-history to many
of you out there <g>, the biological cycle was not known as it is today.
We strove for what was known as a balanced aquarium, a mixture of plants
and animals that would live, thrive and do well in general. Those who
were successful had light loads in the aquarium, far fewer fish than
many try to keep in the same sized aquarium today.

I believe it was back in the mid- to late-60's that I started to hear
about a cycle that occurred in the aquarium, and the need to start this
cycle and maintain it. This was the nitrogen cycle. Back in the 1970's a
fellow by the name of Stephen Spotte wrote a book, _Fish and
Invertebrate Culture: Water Management in Closed Systems_. The second
edition of this book, with some corrections and additions was published
in 1970. While this book concerns mainly marine systems (the freshwater
hobby now owes a lot to those who have been striving to keep marine
fish), the information on the nitrogen cycle applies just as well to
freshwater. However, this book is very technical in nature, and one does
need some background in chemistry to be able to understand it.
Fortunately, if one ignores all the technical stuff, the cycle can be
easily explained without getting into chemistry and worrying about the
biological aspects.

Simply put, the cycle starts with the introduction of ammonia to the
closed system. Whether the ammonia is from a biological source, i.e.
fish, or from a bottle makes no difference. Either way it is a toxin to
living animals in the aquarium. Bacteria are present to consume this
ammonia. It may take some time for the bacteria to increase their
population enough to consume all of the ammonia introduced. The end
result of their consumption of ammonia is nitrite. This is another
substance that is toxic to animals in the aquarium. Fortunately, there
are other bacteria that just love to eat nitrites. When they do this,
they convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are relatively
harmless to most fish and animals. Nitrates need to rise to really high
levels before most animals are affected adversely. Water changes done on
a regular basis will help control the level of nitrates by removing them
from the tank as water is removed and replaced with new water. Also,
plants will utilize nitrates as part of their biology.

To establish this cycle takes between 6 and 8 weeks to allow the
bacteria needed to colonize the aquarium and do their thing. There are
products out there that claim to shorten this process, but, never having
used any, I cannot comment on how well they work.

Do understand that living aquatic creatures produce the ammonia found in
tanks. How much they produce is a science task to determine. A fellow by
the name Stephen M. Meyer of MIT wrote a series of articles about
ammonia production by fish, koi specifically, and the formulae used to
determine this production. His formulae apply to all fish. These
articles appeared in the mid 1980's in Aquarium Fish Magazine.

Everything anyone needs to keep fish successfully is out there, though
one may need to look for it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of jett07002
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 12:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Wher did the fish come from?

Good hearing from you Ray.
Guess it's sure a good thing that I'm not a writer cause you put much
more eloquently about the water and fish subject much better than I
did. What I was try to drive home was mostly meant for new hobbyists.
My point was that they can't keep trying to change the water
conditions the fish are in too fast. And once they do, keeping the
water to the settings appropriate for the fish, they have to do it
religiously. You can't adjust the water for one PWC and decide to
just use the tap water the way it is on the next PWC. So keeping the
water parameters for the tank should be consistent or you have the
"roller coaster" ride. I guess in short what I'm saying is if a
hobbyist doesn't have the time to do this --and for many, it is the
fun of doing it -- they should get fish that will thrive in the water
of their area. It makes keeping the fish much easier.

joet

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Joet, Yes, I suppose you found me out! Speaking for myself, yes I
> do happen to love the hobby and I'm sure Steve too does, as well as
> yourself. After reading your post, it appears to me that you may
> well have misread (or misinterpreted) what I said in my post to Kate.
>
> I'm sure we all realize that many aquarium fish today are captive
> bred and raised either on farms or in tanks -- some locally (wherever
> that might be), some in Florida and some in the Far East, among other
> locations. To a good extent, fish can and will adapt to other water
> conditions, that's a given! Many (but not all) fish will even breed
> in water not found in their original habitat. Often, unless the fish
> are locally raised to the area where the wholesaler/distributor is
> found, these fish may already be subjected to a "roller-coaster"
> ride, and while we don't want to put them through any stress, they
> have already been subjected to it in most cases.
>
> The object of what we should do with our aquarium fish, usually
> bought through a wholesaler (with different water), and very possibly
> subjected to another change of water after reaching the retail store,
> is to slowly acclimate them to our aquarium water -- after all, its
> our tap water in our aquarium that is going to maintain these fish
> hopefully long-term.
>
> Now, I did say that community fish are a mixture of fish with
> different requirements (which they are), with some such as
> Swordtails) PREFERRING (but not necessarily requiring) somewhat hard
> alkaline water. On the other hand, you may be mixing them in the
> community aquarium with Cardinals, which PREFER soft acid water (but
> do not REQUIRE it). This is why I stated most community fish will do
> well together in water having a total hardness of between 80 ppm
> (MODERATELY soft) to 120 ppm or more (MODERATELY hard), and went on
> to say that most water will be fine just so you avoid the EXTREMES
> (since most fish will adapt to some degree). Your best bet is to
> acclimate the fish to your tap water (if its not to the EXTREME), and
> if its within comfortable tolerances for the fish as this is the
> water that you are going to maintain the tank with, with partial
> weekly water changes of it.
>
> I will point out, now that you've opened up this broad subject, that
> even though the fish (whether wild or farm-raised) may adapt and live
> in your water, they may not necessarily thrive. It DOES NOT MATTER
> where the fish were reared (in the wild, on the farm, or tank
> raised), any given species of fish will ALWAYS do best in the
> environment (read - water conditions) in which its species EVOLVED
> in. That process has taken many millions of years. Although fish
> can adapt and many (but not all) fish may be able to breed in water
> other than what they evolved in, they will ALWAYS do better (their
> BEST) when placed in water "natural" to them -- the water their kind
> evolved in.
>
> I originally mainly brushed on this to alert Kate to the fact that
> (1) soft water is not harmful to most community fish, and (2) very
> hard and alkaline water is mainly required for Rift Lake Cichlids,
> etc., and to avoid extremes. After all, regardless of what water a
> wholesaler or retailer may put fish in, they need not (should not) be
> kept in that water if their requirements are much different. If
> slowly acclimated, they can adapt slowly into water where they'll
> thrive and/or be more comfortable. You wouldn't want to put Lake
> Tanganyika Cichlids in water more suited to Discus and Uaru's, with a
> pH of 5.8 - 6.0 and 3 dGH. Likewise, you wouldn't want to put Discus
> (or any Amazon River inhabitant) in water with a pH of 9.2 and having
> a hardness of up to 500 ppm, or more (29 dGH), which Lake Tanganyika
> can have during certain seasons (and in certain areas). Not only
> will they not thrive, they will not live for very long.
>
> Water from some of the other African lakes can be even more basic,
> with Lake George having a pH of between 9.3 and 9.9, and Lake Rudolph
> having a pH of between 9.4 and 10.0. You better not try keeping
> those fish (or Tanganyicans) in average (pH 6.8 - 7.2) aquarium water
> just because you want to avoid "putting these fish though some
> unnecessary stress." To reiterate, fish will always do best in the
> water their species originally came from, REGARDLESS of the water
> they may have "temporarily" adapted to or how many generations
> they've been raised in conditions other than their species' natural
> environs during the comparative blink of an eye when considering the
> much larger scale of evolution. Each fish made itself, through
> process of elimination, into an entity best suited to the conditions
> found where they developed over eons. You're not going to change
> that preference by "adapting" them to breed in conditions other than
> that, nor is it in their best interest to "avoid" stressing them by
> not putting them back into water best suited for them. They can and
> will adapt when done carefully, and will thank you for it.
>
> Note that I'm not advocating changing your present water conditions,
> unless you actually need to, and there are times you definitely need
> to. If it cannot be done conveniently, the hobbyist should not
> consider keeping that species. Overall, when maintaining the average
> community fish in the average community tank, you want your change
> out (tap) water to be the same as your tank water for ease of
> maintenance and consistence. Ray
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jett07002" <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > Hello, all:
> >
> > Been reading the replies from Steve and Ray and I can't argue with
> > anything they said. These two people LOVE the hobby, I can tell.
> (It
> > takes one to know one, and I love it, too.) Haven't seen any
> postings
> > from Lenny lately.(?)
> >
> > Anyway, I just wanted to stick my two cents in here, for what it's
> > worth, and make an observation. Everyone is concerned about where
> the
> > fish come from - meaning their natural habitat, but we can't forget
> > that a lot of these fish are now coming from farms and breeders
> around
> > the areas we live in. If not the immediate we are in, certainly far
> > away from the fish's natural environment. When you are buying new
> > fish, it's a good idea to find out if they were bred locally. Did
> the
> > breeder use anything to try to alter the water to the fishes
> liking?
> > Or did the breeder just use the water from the area as it is?
> >
> > A lot of the "locally grown" fish are already acclimated to the area
> > water they were raised in from fry. If you are once again trying to
> > alter the water back to their "natural environments" we could really
> > be putting these fish through some unnecessary stress.
> >
> > You may want to alter the water to the natural environment
> parameters
> > as much as possible because it stimulates the color or some other
> > reason, but if you're going to do this, it should be done S-L-O-W-L-
> Y!
> > Don't put your fish on a roller coaster ride.
> >
> > Of course, if they are wild - coming from the natural environment -
> > the you would want to alter your water as best you can to the
> > parameters of where they came from. That's another point. If you
> are
> > tanking fish from a completely different kind of water than your
> > area, that's a lot of work to alter! Don't forget you have to do it
> > religiously with all the water changes, or the fish suffer.
> >
> > joet
> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23698 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Hmmmm. I thought we had a chart in there. I haven't looked in there in a
long time.

Some of the stuff in there needs to be edited or removed... especially the
water quality information from PetsMart Staff. LOL Their answer to
everything is "We have a product..." and that's one of the worst things to
do to your poor fish tank... turn it into a chemical cess pool worthy of
being listed as a Hazardous Waste Superfund site.

Remember this when reading anything on the net... is there a "motive" for
the information being given or is the person supplying the information prone
to being misled by advertising for the products on other sites.

If I ever get caught up with my work... not likely any time soon... I'll
edit my old spreadsheet that I created for my own tanks a few years ago and
post it in the files section.

Actually, I found a "pretty" one online but it was very basic and had some
bad information in it about what "Normal" parameters were but I downloaded
it and I will delete the "Normal" columns data and add a few other columns
for things they didn't have listed. After I'm happy with the final version,
I'll upload it into the files section so look for it in a few days or if you
want my first draft of this excel spreadsheet, send me a private email to
GoldLenny@... (GoldLenny-at-Gmail.com) and I'll send you out a copy
right away.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 2:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] water testing

you beat me to it... I was just going to say the same thing. I looked
through everything and couldn't find it either but in the meantime I found
some very helpful info in there.

Hamrad <hamrad@... <mailto:hamrad%40gmail.com> > wrote: Could not find
the exec file you mentioned in the Group's file section.

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] water testing

For newbie's with a brand new tank, daily testing could be in order....
especially if you are stuck with "cycling with fish" because some
ill-informed pet store employee told you to do it that way... so you will
know when to do PWC's to keep the water non-toxic for the fish. Oh yeah...
the pet store employee didn't tell you that you might have to do daily PWC's
to keep the water safe/non-toxic for the fish.

If you are "fishless cycling"... the smart and inexpensive choice... then
daily testing is done in order to know when to add more ammonia and to know
when the ammonia spike and nitrite spikes happen and when they are both down
to 0.0ppm so you would know when the tank is safe for fish.

If you have extra money and decided to purchase Bio-Spira, then daily
testing would be in order for the first week or so to make sure you didn't
get an un-refrigerated package which might not work properly. After that,
then weekly testing to monthly testing... or as needed depending on if the
fish are acting unusual or not.

I guess that's why there's not a standardized "chart" of how often or when
to test... because there are too many variables involved in the "cycling" of
the tank.

To be safe, test daily in the beginning until you are sure your tank is
fully "cycled", then drop to weekly and eventually drop to monthly once you
are certain the tank is stabile and you have your filter maintenance and PWC
schedule in order. Remember that as the fish grow, they put out more and
more waste so the filter maintenance and PWC frequency will probably need to
be increased to keep up with the waste and additional bioload.

There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that folks can
download and use to keep track of their test results and "see" what is
happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter maintenance affect the
numbers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:54 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:aquaticlife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] water testing

I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about
water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone knows
of a chart or something along those lines to record testing results and show
exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are incredible and I love
this group. I have learned so much already. I got lucky with my hexagon tank
I already have set up, considering I did the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am
almost ready to set up a new tank but I am researching more before I get it
started so I can do it the right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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2:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23699 From: Aaron Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: FISH.xls
I just found an Excel file named FISH.xls and moved it to the bottom
so it is easier to find, it is several years old and I have not seen
it since I uploaded it. It is not likely as detailed as the chart
Lisa was looking for or as good as the one Lenny is working on. It
was just my record I had kept back then of my tank maintenance.

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files/



--- "Hamrad" wrote:
>
> Could not find the exec file you mentioned in the Group's file
section.
>
> Tom S.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny ....
>
> There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that
folks can download and use to keep track of their test results
and "see" what is happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter
maintenance affect the numbers.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
-----Original Message-----
... I was wondering if maybe anyone knows of a chart or something
along those lines to record testing results and show exactly what
needs to be tested and when? ...

Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23700 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
OK. Is the "Green" level considered dangerous or OK? If it is only 0.5ppm,
then you may never get it below that level while your tank is still
cycling... especially if your tap water is treated with chloramine (like
mine is), which leaves a residual ammonia level of around 0.5ppm after being
treated with a tap water conditioner. Once your tank is fully cycled, your
nitrifying bacteria will easily consume this residual ammonia when you do a
PWC.

What brand tap water treatment are you using?

What is your pH and water temperature? These are important numbers I need
to know so we will know how toxic the ammonia is in your tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 8:06 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Lenny,

I performed a 50% water change last night and another water change this
morning (20-25%). After taking a reading a little while ago, the ammonia
level is still in the green (0.5 ppm).

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> You didn't give me much info as far as my questions but here is a page
> that explains ammonia toxicity and the relationship between ammonia,
> pH and water temperature.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
> <http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html>
>
> If your tests do not give you an actual number, then maybe somewhere
> in the instructions it will at least give you a range of what the
> "green" means.
> It could be 1.0ppm or 5.0ppm or whatever... make sure the next kit you
> get gives actual numbers or at least explains what the colors mean.
>
> Also, if your pH is on the low side, 7.0 or below, then ammonia is not
> nearly as toxic than if your pH is up near 8.0 or above. The above
> site will explain this.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
> Lenny,
>
> Thanks for your help on the ammonia level issue. Per your advice, I
> performed a second PWC (about 50%) a short while ago. I just took
> another ammonia reading and the level is still at the stress level. I
> will perform another PWC tomorrow, as I am exhausted from my day.
> I will let you know how
> things turn out and will answer your questions then.
> Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > Do you know what the green level means as far as
> ppm (parts per
> > million) or mgl (milligrams per liter), which btw,
> are the same thing?
> > What brand/type of tap water dechlor do you have?
> What is the ammonia
> > level of your tap water? What is the pH of your
> tap and tank? What
> > size tank and how many and what types of fish? How
> long has it been
> > set up? Did you fishless cycle or use Bio-Spira? I
> know you may have
> > answered these questions before but I belong to
> several fish groups
> > and forums and can't remember everything about
> everyone's tank.
> >
> > The "issue" is likely that your tank is still
> "cycling" or going
> > through a mini-cycle. If you added more fish, the
> nitrifying bacteria
> > (the good ones) in your filter and other surface
> areas of the tank
> > have not grown a large enough colony to eat all
> the ammonia your fish
> > are putting out. Speaking of filters... did you
> recently change out
> > your filter cartridge? I know most filter
> companies tell people to
> > change their filters every few weeks but
> especially in a newly set up
> > tank, this is HORRIBLE advice as you are throwing
> away all of your
> > good nitrifying bacteria that is growing in the
> filter media (polypad,
> > floss, sponge, etc.). Are you vacuuming your
> gravel with each PWC? If
> > not, waste and uneaten food could be decomposing
> in the gravel which
> > puts out ammonia, CO2, etc.
> >
> > Read my blog on "Filter Maintenance and Cleaning"
> so you will learn
> > the proper ways to clean your filters so you do
> not throw your tank
> > into a mini-cycle each time you do filter
> maintenance.
> > Look for the link on the
> > right side of the main blog link in my sig.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of Jim
> > Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:07 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
> >
> > I just performed a 20 percent water change on my
> 20 gallon freshwater
> > tank.
> > For some reason, the ammonia level is at the
> danger level (green). Is
> > there something I can do to bring it down without
> killing the fish?
> > What might be the issue? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
>

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2:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23701 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
It also depends on the overall ecology of the tank. A heavily stocked tank
will need more frequent or larger PWC's than a lightly stocked tank. Things
like over-feeding, fish mass, gravel cleaning, filter cleaning, tap water
parameters, etc., will also all play a role in determining the PWC % and
frequency. If you have an undersized tank, you might have to do more
frequent PWC's to remove/reduce hormone levels so you do not cause your fish
to be severely stunted, while you are arranging for a larger tank. If you
have fish that put out lots of waste like goldfish, oscars, pleco's, etc.,
then you will need to do more frequent or larger PWC's.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 10:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Frankly, I am surprised that more people have not jumped in here. It seems
that everyone has an opinion on changing water ranging from a "drip" system
that provides for continuous water changes to those who say they never
change water at all--they just top off their tanks when needed.

Water changes in a closed system such as your aquarium serve an important
purpose. Natural systems with a few exceptions (think Great Salt Lake and
vernal ponds among a few others) offer the critters that live in bodies of
water an eternal water change. In a closed system, we do the best we can to
provide a regular water change to somewhat emulate what nature does as mater
of course. Water changes will help one maintain manageable amounts of toxins
and other substances that will occur as a result of biological actions.
Evaporation of water will also increase the concentration of those mentioned
substances as well as concentrate minerals that may be found in your water.

The minimum suggested water change would be 10% per week. This would mean
that you would remove enough water to replace it with an amount that equals
10% of the volume of water in the tank. If you had a tank with 100 gallons
of water, and lost 2 gallons to evaporation, you would remove 8 gallons and
replace it with 10 gallons to make a 10% water change.

Suggested amounts of water change would range from 10% to 25%. High amounts
may be recommended for specific situations, as well as more frequent water
changes. However, for most display tanks, water changes of 10-25% are
usually sufficient to maintain a good environment for your fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 4:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water Changes

Hi,

Could someone provide me with a beginner's guide to changing water in a fish
tank? A little background: I have a freshwater tank set up with three
tropical fish. I set up the tank for a couple of weeks, and then bought the
fish about five days ago. I was told by my local pet store salesman that I
should wait about three more weeks before I perform a slight water change,
as the pH levels are stable at this time. I'm trying to determine if I
should perform a 10 percent or 25 percent water change. What is recommended
in this case? Is there any special equipment I should purchase to prepare
for this process? Thanks for helping out a newbie to this hobby!



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.6/971 - Release Date: 8/24/2007
2:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23702 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: Re: FISH.xls
That file seems to be a list of someone's fish. It's not a water chemistry
log spreadsheet. I will upload the "Aquarium Water Test Log - Modified by
GoldLenny - 2nd Draft.xls" file now and we can all look at it and make
suggestions for further modifications for the Final Draft.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Aaron
Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 5:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] FISH.xls

I just found an Excel file named FISH.xls and moved it to the bottom so it
is easier to find, it is several years old and I have not seen it since I
uploaded it. It is not likely as detailed as the chart Lisa was looking for
or as good as the one Lenny is working on. It was just my record I had kept
back then of my tank maintenance.

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files/
<http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files/>

--- "Hamrad" wrote:
>
> Could not find the exec file you mentioned in the Group's file
section.
>
> Tom S.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny ....
>
> There is an excel chart in the "Files" section of the group that
folks can download and use to keep track of their test results and "see"
what is happening between PWC's and how a PWC and filter maintenance affect
the numbers.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
-----Original Message-----
... I was wondering if maybe anyone knows of a chart or something along
those lines to record testing results and show exactly what needs to be
tested and when? ...

Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.6/971 - Release Date: 8/24/2007
2:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23703 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 8/25/2007
Subject: New file uploaded to AquaticLife
Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the AquaticLife
group.

File : /Water Chemistry/Aquarium Water Test Log - Modified by GoldLenny - 2nd draft.xls
Uploaded by : neighborhood_home_services <GoldLenny@...>
Description : Excel Spreadsheet for keeping a log of your water parameters from the time you start up each of your tanks.

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/files/Water%20Chemistry/Aquarium%20Water%20Test%20Log%20-%20Modified%20by%20GoldLenny%20-%202nd%20draft.xls

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

neighborhood_home_services <GoldLenny@...>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23704 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: water testing
Lisa,

I would not be surprised to find such a chart as you ask for somewhere
out there. However, the tests that you should be doing would include
temperature (not many consider this to be a test), pH, ammonia, nitrite,
and nitrate. Other tests that may be useful would include hardness,
alkalinity, oxygen, and tests for specific minerals that could be found
in your water.

The first group of tests would be considered necessary tests. The second
group is more of an informational group of tests, but could help one
determine specific problems one may face from time to time. For
instance, hardness can be somewhat inferred from your pH, but as I have
mentioned here in other posts, it is not a strict relationship. If your
pH fluctuates, then you may want to test alkalinity, not to be mistaken
with the term used to define high pH. And so on.

Don't forget to test your tap water to set a baseline from which you are
starting. Set aside a sample of your water after your initial testing to
retest your pH after 24 hours as it may change for a number of reasons.

Once you have setup your tank and started cycling it, you will need to
perform ammonia tests every day, and when ammonia has started to
decrease, add nitrite tests until nitrite reading has started to
decrease, at which time you can also start testing for nitrate. You will
then need to continue testing while you add fish until the tank has
fully stabilized. At that time you can back off on your testing to
weekly, then even monthly, stepping up testing when there is a problem
noted in the tank to help determine what may be the source of the
problem. Also, if you medicate a tank, step up your testing, as many
antibiotics can wreak havoc on your bacterial colonies that help
maintain the nitrogen cycle in your tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 9:54 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] water testing

I don't know if this is possible, but I have read so many postings about
water changes and testing and such and I was wondering if maybe anyone
knows of a chart or something along those lines to record testing
results and show exactly what needs to be tested and when? You guys are
incredible and I love this group. I have learned so much already. I
got lucky with my hexagon tank I already have set up, considering I did
the pet shop set up. YIKES!!! I am almost ready to set up a new tank
but I am researching more before I get it started so I can do it the
right way. Thanks a ton!!!

Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23705 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Dear Steve & Lenny,

I am having problems with making the suggested water changes. I
can't use a Python because the water I am using is not routed through
a heater, the normal water supply is softened & I was told not to use
it in my tanks. This means I am carrying buckets of water to & from
the tanks & dumping it outside as we have had a dry summer. It is
taking a physical toll on me, I am not young anymore. . My questions
are: Is not using the softened water correct? Or can I use it? If I
could, then a Python would solve the problem. I can manage the
smaller tanks, 5-12g & figure it is most important to do water
changes on them. If I only manage a 5% water change, but do it more
often on the 50 g is that OK? Do you have any suggestions for
catching baby Guppies? If I could catch them, the LFS will take them
& that will eliminate two tanks. I have tried to catch the little
guys but they are wise to my tricks now.

Judy

"Suggested amounts of water change would range from 10% to 25%. High
amounts may be recommended for specific situations, as well as more
frequent water changes. However, for most display tanks, water changes
of 10-25% are usually sufficient to maintain a good environment for your
fish."

\\Steve//

"It also depends on the overall ecology of the tank. A heavily
stocked tank
will need more frequent or larger PWC's than a lightly stocked tank.
Things
like over-feeding, fish mass, gravel cleaning, filter cleaning, tap
water
parameters, etc., will also all play a role in determining the PWC % and
frequency. "

Lenny

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23706 From: William Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
If you are trying to catch the fish out of a small tank them get a
bucket and drain some water into it from the tank. Now drain the
tank down to within a few inches off the bottom and you should be
able to catch the fish in the tank easier. Oh yes take out all
plants and other things that will get in the way.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Judith Downing <beary@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Steve & Lenny,
>
> I am having problems with making the suggested water
changes. I
> can't use a Python because the water I am using is not routed
through
> a heater, the normal water supply is softened & I was told not to
use
> it in my tanks. This means I am carrying buckets of water to &
from
> the tanks & dumping it outside as we have had a dry summer. It is
> taking a physical toll on me, I am not young anymore. . My
questions
> are: Is not using the softened water correct? Or can I use it? If
I
> could, then a Python would solve the problem. I can manage the
> smaller tanks, 5-12g & figure it is most important to do water
> changes on them. If I only manage a 5% water change, but do it
more
> often on the 50 g is that OK? Do you have any suggestions for
> catching baby Guppies? If I could catch them, the LFS will take
them
> & that will eliminate two tanks. I have tried to catch the little
> guys but they are wise to my tricks now.
>
> Judy
>
> "Suggested amounts of water change would range from 10% to 25%.
High
> amounts may be recommended for specific situations, as well as more
> frequent water changes. However, for most display tanks, water
changes
> of 10-25% are usually sufficient to maintain a good environment
for your
> fish."
>
> \\Steve//
>
> "It also depends on the overall ecology of the tank. A heavily
> stocked tank
> will need more frequent or larger PWC's than a lightly stocked
tank.
> Things
> like over-feeding, fish mass, gravel cleaning, filter cleaning,
tap
> water
> parameters, etc., will also all play a role in determining the PWC
% and
> frequency. "
>
> Lenny
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23707 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
If you can only do a 2.5G bucket at a time, then that would be fine as long
as you are changing around 10-15G a week which might be doing a 2.5G change
every other day. This actually leads to more consistent water parameters
but is more of a hassle to some folks. The downside of only removing 2.5G
from a 50G tank is that you can't do much gravel vacuuming. There is a
solution to this problem....

Marineland makes a Magnum 350 Pro canister filter system
http://www.marineland.com/products/consumer/con_magnum.asp that has a built
in gravel vacuum option where you connect the supplied gravel vacuum tube to
the canister filter intake line and use the power of the canister filter
pump to vacuum the gravel. Then you would clean the canister filter media
afterwards. Doing this and then doing every other day 2.5G PWC's would go a
long way at keeping the tank stabile, clean and healthy. Here's my blog on
Filter Maintenance & Cleaning
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html Presuming the link will wrap/break, just go to my main blog link in
sig and the article is listed on the right side in February.

Is the water softening unit a "whole-house" unit? Is there a faucet just
prior to the water softening unit where you could hook up the Python? Many
people use an exterior faucet to hook up their Python so the discharge water
goes into their gardens or lawns, rather than down a drain like when the
Python is hooked up to an inside sink faucet.

You wouldn't be able to use hot water with this option either so you would
need to know your tap water temperature and not do a PWC that would change
the tank temp by more than 1-2F at a time. For example, if the tap water is
60F and your tank is 80F, that's a 20F difference. You would not be able to
do more than a 10% PWC at any one time or it would change the temp by more
than 2F (10% of 20F difference equals 2F change). If the tap water was 70F
and the tank was 80F, then you could do a 20% PWC without going over the 2F
difference in overall temperature change. Same thing on the high end if you
live in a hot area. At this time of year, my tap water is running much
warmer than my tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Judith Downing
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 10:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Water Changes

Dear Steve & Lenny,

I am having problems with making the suggested water changes. I can't use a
Python because the water I am using is not routed through a heater, the
normal water supply is softened & I was told not to use it in my tanks. This
means I am carrying buckets of water to & from the tanks & dumping it
outside as we have had a dry summer. It is taking a physical toll on me, I
am not young anymore. . My questions
are: Is not using the softened water correct? Or can I use it? If I could,
then a Python would solve the problem. I can manage the smaller tanks, 5-12g
& figure it is most important to do water changes on them. If I only manage
a 5% water change, but do it more often on the 50 g is that OK? Do you have
any suggestions for catching baby Guppies? If I could catch them, the LFS
will take them & that will eliminate two tanks. I have tried to catch the
little guys but they are wise to my tricks now.

Judy

"Suggested amounts of water change would range from 10% to 25%. High amounts
may be recommended for specific situations, as well as more frequent water
changes. However, for most display tanks, water changes of 10-25% are
usually sufficient to maintain a good environment for your fish."

\\Steve//

"It also depends on the overall ecology of the tank. A heavily stocked tank
will need more frequent or larger PWC's than a lightly stocked tank.
Things
like over-feeding, fish mass, gravel cleaning, filter cleaning, tap water
parameters, etc., will also all play a role in determining the PWC % and
frequency. "

Lenny


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8/973 - Release Date: 8/25/2007
5:00 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23708 From: kate hardy Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: pregnant cherry shrimp question
Hi Lenny,
Thanks so much for the info. I do have moss and another plant, I'm blanking on the name at the moment, it's sotof feathery, tall, dark green and tones of red. anyway it's really bushy and would give places to hide. The Glosso and some dwarf grass should help too.
I was going to use a sponge but thanks for the filter medium bag idea!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Fish will eat the baby shrimp but if you have enough dense plants like java
moss, guppy grass, etc., then some will likely survive. I have a cherry
shrimp planted 10G tank that started with 25 cherry shrimp and there must be
100 now. Several females are constantly carrying eggs. I'm not sure if
"pregnant" is the proper term since the eggs are technically carried outside
of the body, under the tail and are constantly rotated by the swimmeret's so
the eggs are constantly exposed to O2 rich water.

You should also put a filter media bag over the intake of your filter so the
shrimpettes do not get sucked into the filter. Some people put a sponge but
aquarium sponges are open cell sponges so the shrimp could technically crawl
through the sponge and get sucked into the filter. That's why I use the
fine mesh filter media bag. I leave the filter media bag tied on to the
intake tube on top of the existing filter screen. The shrimp spend a lot of
time on the filter media bag eating anything caught by the filter media bag
mesh.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 4:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] pregnant cherry shrimp question

It kindof sound like an appetizer huh. lol

We do have pretty great stores here. And one of the Cherry Shrimp is
pregnant which should be fun since they are livebearers. I will take pics
when I have a chance. By the way does anyone know if I should do anything to
protect the babies? Will the Rasboras eat them? Sorry if that's a dumb
question.

Thanks!
Kate

Aaron >
wrote:


mmm, cherry shrimp glosso, yummy ~ sounds like an appetizer I had at that
Thai restaurant downtown,

;^)

Kate,

You must have some really nice LFS there, I have never seen Glosso or cherry
shrimp anywhere around where I live in the East Bay Area of San Fran

Glosso is a great plant, it will nicely blanket the bottom of the tank given
a real appealing look, Amano says to plant each "stem?"
individually and spaced apart a bit so they can have room to grow, I saw
video of him doing a demonstration on it and he was using tweezers - very
meticulous work

The Cherry Shrimp are apparently eager breeders, I've seen individuals
advertise them online at relatively inexpensive prices compared to the big
online companies

Please upload some new pics when you get a chance so we (i) can see how your
aquarium is progressing

take care

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ,
kate hardy wrote:
>
>...
> I grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry
Shrimp I couldn't resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the
tank now include 3 Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp.
I've thought about adding a pair of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.
>
> As always thank you for the info!!
> Kate


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4:04 PM




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23709 From: kate hardy Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: H2O
Yeah, just thought about that too. Maybe my so called bacteria problem was just snail poop. lol!

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Hmmmm... sounds like your fish store is full of BS (bacteria syndrome..
lol). From your description, it sounds like snails to me... especially if
you could see them with your naked eye. Were they on the glass? Did you
have some live plants at that point?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 5:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
Sorry for the lag, I just saw this. For some reason it went to my bulk mail
folder. There were tiny brown, cylindrical things all over the tank. I threw
some water in a bag with them and took it to the fish store and they said
bacteria. They could have been wrong. They looked like fish poop honestly
but I didn't have fish at that point.

As for the hardness, I think I'll test some of the RO right out of the tap
next time and see what it reads. It seems to be doing well so far. I'll just
make sure I watch whatever I put in the tank for water changes to make sure
it doesn't get too hard.
Thanks,
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
What do you mean by "I'm not seeing the bacteria I was before"??? Bacteria
is generally microscopic so it's not something we can see and for the most
part, we can't test for it either unless you view your water samples, fish
scrapings under a microscope.

If your tap has no hardness reading, then something in your tank is leaching
into your water. This may not be a bad thing but you should at least
identify what it is in case it starts making the water too hard for your
fish or changing too much, too fast for your fish (or plants).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Hi Lenny,
The reason my tap and tank water were so different is I was not using the
tap water. I was using entirely RO water which, despite what I've read on
this list, doesn't seem to be giving too horrid of readings. I think someone
mentioned there could be a crack in the RO tank. I may have to mention that
to my parents. It's their system. When the RO water is gone it will spit out
regular tapwater until the tank builds back up and Park City water is pretty
good so it's possible I was still filling the jugs after the RO was gone
too.

My tank numbers are exactly what they were when I posted last Thursday other
than the alkalinity has gone from 180 to 120. I haven't done the water
change yet this week. The log is a great idea. I've been meaning to start
one since I started the tank in May but just haven't. I'm a terrible
procrastinator.

The tank does seem to be looking quite a bit better this week. I'm not
seeing the bacteria I was before. I think adding more plants helped. I
grabbed a Glossostigma today and when the shop had Cherry Shrimp I couldn't
resist so I added a few of them. The inhabitants of the tank now include 3
Rasboras, 4 Otocinclus and 6 Cherry Shrimp. I've thought about adding a pair
of Peacock Gudgeons and stopping there.

As always thank you for the info!!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Hi Kate,

One thing folks should do... especially beginners or on a newly set up
tank... is set up a log and take regular daily readings in the beginning and
then taper down to weekly and then monthly (after 6 months) so they will
"see" what is happening to their tanks water chemistry as the overall tank
ecology grows and changes. Then you can ask questions about what, if any,
changes take place. While your numbers appear to be OK, we don't know what
they were last week or last month or yesterday so we don't know if things
have changed dramatically or if they are staying relatively stabile. We also
do not know what kind of fish you have. Some fish would love those numbers
and other fish would hate them.

What we do see with your numbers is that your pH has moved down from 7.8 to
7.2 and that is expected as the ecology of the tank utilizes the trace
elements and minerals in the water. The hardness reading on your tap is
probably an error as most water will not get harder in a tank unless there
are rocks or other substances leeching into the water. I would suspect your
tap has a GH or KH reading (hardness readings) since your total alkalinity
is much higher on your tap than in your tank. Were your tank readings right
before a PWC or right after a PWC?

Also, it is stability that the fish like even if they aren't in their most
preferred water. When water parameters change too much, too fast, this
causes stress to the fish and their immune system falters making them more
likely to succumb to some pathogen that they would otherwise have a
resistance or immunity.

As far as endorsements of filter media products, I think that while they may
be useful, they are not the panacea for our aquariums that the
advertisements might want you to believe. Some of these filter media
additives lead people into a false sense of security and they might cause
people to get lazy or lackadaisical about doing PWC's. I do use Purigen in
my goldfish and cherry shrimp tank but I still do weekly PWC's on all of my
tanks. I like Purigen over activated carbon since Purigen can be cleaned and
recharged using plain bleach and it starts out white and gets a dark brown
as it gets "dirty" so you would know when to clean it. I see that the
Hypersorb can also be recharged which is a good thing but I'm not so sure on
all this "ion exchange" stuff. Even in my short time as a fish keeper, I've
seen too many pie-in-the-sky promises from various products and additives.
All the fish need is regular PWC's to remove DOC's and other impurities.
The chemical filtration is just something extra to help between PWC's. They
are not a substitute for regular PWC's and filter cleaning.

ONLY properly stocking fish in the right sized tanks and habitats and doing
regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's (depending on the overall ecology) will
keep our fish in their best shape and give them their best chance at a full
and healthy life.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 2:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] RE: H2O

Thanks for the info. Here are the readings for today by the way. If anyone
would care to comment on anything they see that needs to change I'd love to
hear from you.
Kate

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-75
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-120
pH-7.2

And this is my tap water

Nitrate-0
Nitrite-0
Total Hardness-0
Total Chlorine-0
Total Alkalinity-between the 180 and 300 marks
pH-7.8

Richard Haley > wrote:
Honestly Kate I hate to keep endoring this product but everyone should use
its called hypersorb and it is an ion exchange resin that you put in a
filter bag then install it in you filter somewhere you have a constant water
flow you could the 100 ml bag for about 5.50 its made by seachem here it the
link check it out and choose the one that best suit you but the Hypersorb is
far superior than any other at doing its job of cleaning all harmful
substances from your water and make it extremely ionic balanced meaning no
more harmful ph flucuation or ammonia and nitrite will no longer be a
problem please trust me and try it you will not be sorry and your fish will
love you for. here is the link to check it.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Resin-Filter-Media+C10278.aspx



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4:04 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
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Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23710 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Pleco I.D....
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/38b4?b=8
Can someone please tell me what species this is? It was sold to me as
a "Red-Spotted Pleco". It looks like an actual H. Plecostomus to me,
but I read that it's rare to see one these days, it is usually some
other species. The only other possibility I can see is Pterygoplichthys
gibbiceps, but I don't think so. Bear in mind that the spots are
nowhere near as pronounced on the side you can't see. The other side
has those same spots, but with some plain reddish patches.

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/38b4?b=7
Also, these were being sold as Corydoras julii, but they are
trilineatus (Leopard Cory).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23711 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Actually, the markings are uniform. Msybe it looked different before
because of the light or something. Or is it possible his color is
changing because he is in shock from being introduced to a new tank?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23712 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Hi Noah,

From my own experience with my pleco (which I recently rehomed since he was
getting too big for my 65G and Hurricane Katrina put a change on my getting
a bigger tank), http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11346
and it took my guy growing to around 10" before the "experts" were able to
come to a consensus about what he was... a Liposarcus Pardalis a/k/a
Pterygoplichthys Pardalis.

I think you might be best off posting in the PlecoFanatics.com ID forum and
let them hash it around... if some of the experts out here can't come up
with a definitive ID. Also remember that the look can change dramatically
as it matures. Here's mine, before and after pics, when I first
adopted/saved a severely overstocked 10G tank where he had been living for
his first two years. He was only 4" and grew to 10" in the next 1.5 years
in my 65G tank before I had to rehome the big guy.
BEFORE PICS - 4" in 10G just adopted tank
http://pets.webshots.com/photo/1381217862070613611RBWYEU
http://pets.webshots.com/photo/1381218018070613611dIzvuX
AFTER PIC - 10" and growing in my 65G tank
http://pets.webshots.com/photo/2812095870070613611UpfeSD

Some folks thought mine might be a gibbiceps in the beginning also but as it
matured and grew, they decided otherwise. It seems my pictures which were
hosted on PlecoFanatics somehow got new URL's or got deleted since they
aren't showing up any longer in the thread but another members pictures
showing his juvi and adult pleco will show you how much they can change.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2007 11:01 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Pleco I.D....

Actually, the markings are uniform. Msybe it looked different before because
of the light or something. Or is it possible his color is changing because
he is in shock from being introduced to a new tank?



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.8/973 - Release Date: 8/25/2007
5:00 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23713 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/26/2007
Subject: Re: Pleco I.D....
Thank you Lenny. That's what I thought; since he looks like a few
differnet species, and will probably change somewhat as he grows (I
REALLY hope he doesn't grow much more!) I guess a poistively positive
I.D. is pretty tough. I will take your advice and post on the pleco
boards. Thanks again for the info, not only to my questions here, but
your stellar blog also.
>
> Hi Noah,
>
> From my own experience with my pleco (which I recently rehomed
since he was
> getting too big for my 65G and Hurricane Katrina put a change on my
getting
> a bigger tank), http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?
t=11346
> and it took my guy growing to around 10" before the "experts" were
able to
> come to a consensus about what he was... a Liposarcus Pardalis a/k/a
> Pterygoplichthys Pardalis.
>
> I think you might be best off posting in the PlecoFanatics.com ID
forum and
> let them hash it around... if some of the experts out here can't
come up
> with a definitive ID. Also remember that the look can change
dramatically
> as it matures. Here's mine, before and after pics, when I first
> adopted/saved a severely overstocked 10G tank where he had been
living for
> his first two years. He was only 4" and grew to 10" in the next
1.5 years
> in my 65G tank before I had to rehome the big guy.
> BEFORE PICS - 4" in 10G just adopted tank
> http://pets.webshots.com/photo/1381217862070613611RBWYEU
> http://pets.webshots.com/photo/1381218018070613611dIzvuX
> AFTER PIC - 10" and growing in my 65G tank
> http://pets.webshots.com/photo/2812095870070613611UpfeSD
>
> Some folks thought mine might be a gibbiceps in the beginning also
but as it
> matured and grew, they decided otherwise. It seems my pictures
which were
> hosted on PlecoFanatics somehow got new URL's or got deleted since
they
> aren't showing up any longer in the thread but another members
pictures
> showing his juvi and adult pleco will show you how much they can
change.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23714 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
Dear Lenny,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is a whole house water softener. I
had a line run from the well before the softener up to my guest
bathroom. Before that the only source for unsoftened water was the
outside faucet. That got tired fast, lugging 5 g jugs up the stairs.
Now I have a switch on the sink faucet that I can move from softened
to unsoftened water. Since the unsoftened water comes from very near
the outside source, I am afraid the temperature differential is too
great to be safe, especially with colder weather coming.
I'll look into your suggestion about the canister filter but it
scares me as I had a Magnum 350 & flooded my living room the first
time I tried to clean it. I took it back to the store.
Maybe I'll get brave in the future as I forget what happened. LOL

Judy




"Is the water softening unit a "whole-house" unit? Is there a faucet
just
prior to the water softening unit where you could hook up the Python?
Many
people use an exterior faucet to hook up their Python so the
discharge water
goes into their gardens or lawns, rather than down a drain like when the
Python is hooked up to an inside sink faucet.

You wouldn't be able to use hot water with this option either so you
would
need to know your tap water temperature and not do a PWC that would
change
the tank temp by more than 1-2F at a time. For example, if the tap
water is
60F and your tank is 80F, that's a 20F difference. You would not be
able to
do more than a 10% PWC at any one time or it would change the temp by
more
than 2F (10% of 20F difference equals 2F change). If the tap water
was 70F
and the tank was 80F, then you could do a 20% PWC without going over
the 2F
difference in overall temperature change. Same thing on the high end
if you
live in a hot area. At this time of year, my tap water is running much
warmer than my tanks." Lenny

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23715 From: Judith Downing Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes & Catching Guppies
Dear William,

Thanks for the suggestion, I bet I can catch them that way. I
thought about lowering the water level but not that far. Live & learn.

Judy



"If you are trying to catch the fish out of a small tank them get a
bucket and drain some water into it from the tank. Now drain the
tank down to within a few inches off the bottom and you should be
able to catch the fish in the tank easier. Oh yes take out all
plants and other things that will get in the way." William




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23716 From: William Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: Water Changes
I have a Magnum 350 on my 55 gallon tank and when I have to do
maintenance on it I shut it off first and then close all of the
valves on the double shut off valves (four of them)and then
disconnect between the valves so that I can take the canister part
out from under the tank for easier working on. I have heard of
people trying to shut off the valves before shutting off the motor
and the pressure is too much to do that easily.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Judith Downing <beary@...> wrote:
>
> Dear Lenny,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Yes, it is a whole house water
softener. I
> had a line run from the well before the softener up to my guest
> bathroom. Before that the only source for unsoftened water was
the
> outside faucet. That got tired fast, lugging 5 g jugs up the
stairs.
> Now I have a switch on the sink faucet that I can move from
softened
> to unsoftened water. Since the unsoftened water comes from very
near
> the outside source, I am afraid the temperature differential is
too
> great to be safe, especially with colder weather coming.
> I'll look into your suggestion about the canister filter but
it
> scares me as I had a Magnum 350 & flooded my living room the
first
> time I tried to clean it. I took it back to the store.
> Maybe I'll get brave in the future as I forget what happened. LOL
>
> Judy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23717 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
I have a common goldfish, now about six inches long, and a pleco who
is much smaller. Yesterday, the goldie swam over to the area where the
pleco was feeding, and the pleco attempted to latch onto the goldie.
Goldie apparently considered it a mere annoyance and moved away, but
the pleco continued after her, but finally gave up. They've been tank
mates for over a year, but this is the first time I've seen this
behavior.Can fish get algae on themselves, or is there something about
goldies that could have attracted the pleco?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23718 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
What kind of pleco do you? Do you have wood in the aquarium ? The pleco may
be hungry or it could be one of the meat eating plecos.

Joe



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23720 From: anne carrera Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
SLIMECOAT
Is a mucous created by the continal replacement of glandular cells know in the fishes skin hat produce a glycoprotein which is called mucin.Areas of the amazon where a number of plecos exist there is little in the line of protein based foods.Plecs are very adaptable to feeding on availiable food sources and one is the mucus coating of other fish,There is good evidence of these fish doing this in the wild and plenty of evidence of these fish doing this in captivity.There It really would not be a suprise to find that mucus feeding is a common feeding method in many Loricariidae catfishes.These fish are really not obligate herbivores.


Shirley Reichard <shrlycat@...> wrote: I have a common goldfish, now about six inches long, and a pleco who
is much smaller. Yesterday, the goldie swam over to the area where the
pleco was feeding, and the pleco attempted to latch onto the goldie.
Goldie apparently considered it a mere annoyance and moved away, but
the pleco continued after her, but finally gave up. They've been tank
mates for over a year, but this is the first time I've seen this
behavior.Can fish get algae on themselves, or is there something about
goldies that could have attracted the pleco?






---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23721 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/27/2007
Subject: OT: The Salmon Dance
A video on YouTube to promote a contest of videos to the music of The
Chemical Brothers The Salmon Dance. Intersting mix of fresh and salt
fish (so, in a weird way it really is on topic).

http://www.youtube.com/dothesalmondance

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23722 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Fish I.D. Please
what are the silver/gray fish?

photos in Album * * * Goldfish?

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850


I caught them out of a friends Pond, she said she bought them
as "feeders", they are about 5 to 6 inches in lentgh

Thank You
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23723 From: Aaron Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Pond Plants Needed
Hello,

I am in Livermore CA, (East of San Francisco)

I have some fish to trade, so far I have caught 7 gold/orange, 3
silver & 1 orange w/ black, there is about a dozen more to be caught
they are all 4-6 inches long, pictures are in the Album

* * * Goldfish? Fish I.D. Please

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850


I really need some plants, especially -

water hycinthia

water lillies

Anachris

The Pond is in Dublin near the Movie Theater and is covered in Algae
on the bottom


Thank You
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23724 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
What size tank and what are you feeding the Pleco? What kind of Pleco?

You may hear alarmist stories but most of the time they can peacefully
coexist but occasionally, there are instances where pleco's (which are
omnivores... they eat algae, plants, fish, etc.) will go after slow moving
wide-bodied fish. If your pleco has this penchant, you may need to rehome
one of the fish. It's no different than a community tank where some fish
may not get along. As I mentioned, Pleco's are omnivores so they need
protein in their diet.

They can't live on algae alone or just scraps. You should be feeding him
something like algae thins or crisps which are hard dime-sized wafers that
are usually around 50% protein. I always fed my pleco whenever I fed my
goldies but also at night after lights out, I would drop in one or two algae
wafers so he'd have plenty to eat so he wouldn't get hungry for fresh fish.
LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 3:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie

I have a common goldfish, now about six inches long, and a pleco who is much
smaller. Yesterday, the goldie swam over to the area where the pleco was
feeding, and the pleco attempted to latch onto the goldie.
Goldie apparently considered it a mere annoyance and moved away, but the
pleco continued after her, but finally gave up. They've been tank mates for
over a year, but this is the first time I've seen this behavior.Can fish get
algae on themselves, or is there something about goldies that could have
attracted the pleco?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.9/975 - Release Date: 8/26/2007
9:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23725 From: anil abraham Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
hi,

looks like a carp ... no idea what variety may be
green carp????


regards


--- Aaron <massagetherapist@...> wrote:

> what are the silver/gray fish?
>
> photos in Album * * * Goldfish?
>
>
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850
>
>
> I caught them out of a friends Pond, she said she
> bought them
> as "feeders", they are about 5 to 6 inches in lentgh
>
> Thank You
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________Ready for the edge of your seat?
Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23726 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Carp, just no gold in color.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Aaron
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 4:19 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish I.D. Please


what are the silver/gray fish?

photos in Album * * * Goldfish?

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850

I caught them out of a friends Pond, she said she bought them
as "feeders", they are about 5 to 6 inches in lentgh

Thank You






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.6/971 - Release Date: 8/24/2007 2:59 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23727 From: Francina Martinez Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
Try asking the folks over at nanfa.org on their forum. They don't like carp at all, but I'm sure they could properly identify what species it is exactly.

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: massagetherapist@...
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:19:45 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish I.D. Please




















what are the silver/gray fish?



photos in Album * * * Goldfish?



http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850



I caught them out of a friends Pond, she said she bought them

as "feeders", they are about 5 to 6 inches in lentgh



Thank You
























_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23728 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. Please
They look like the results of Koi-Goldfish crossbreeding. The surviving
fish end up looking like carp (they have the whiskers that goldfish lack)
and are grayish in color and are infertile. These are a result of people
mixing goldfish and koi in the same ponds and the eggs getting cross
fertilized during spawning.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Francina Martinez
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:43 AM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Fish I.D. Please


Try asking the folks over at nanfa.org on their forum. They don't like carp
at all, but I'm sure they could properly identify what species it is
exactly.

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
From: massagetherapist@... <mailto:massagetherapist%40mail.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2007 09:19:45 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish I.D. Please

what are the silver/gray fish?

photos in Album * * * Goldfish?

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850
<http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/b850>

I caught them out of a friends Pond, she said she bought them

as "feeders", they are about 5 to 6 inches in lentgh

Thank You

_

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.9/975 - Release Date: 8/26/2007
9:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23729 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: RO units and water storage
If you store the water you must airate it, and keep it in the dark.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Antony Dalton
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 8:27 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] RO units and water storage


I have a question for all you saltwater types out there with your own
RO water filter units: Can you store the water between water
changes? Does it go stale or start to grow stuff? I am thinking
about plumbing a unit to a regular pressurized household water storage
tank. The RO unit would slowly fill the tank, then I could take out
the 40 or so gallons I will need for water changes.






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.1/962 - Release Date: 8/20/2007 1:08 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23730 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Help with sick and dying fish.
I recently got three new fish (1 guppy and 2 platys) that are now sick
and dying. The guppy stopped eating and started swimming in place on
Saturday night and was dead the next morning. One of Platys stopped
eating Sunday night and is now close, I think, to dying as it is now
laying on the bottom of the tank and, at times, getting bumped along
the gravel with the current. I did notice that this fish's abdomen is
quite enlarged and appears to lave a bloody mark underneath the skin
on the underside of the abdomen. This fish had babies last Wednesday.
The other platy appears to be ok. Tomorrow will be two weeks that I
have had these fish. My question is what can I do to protect the last
remaining fish in the tank? Should I try adding something to the tank?
I have Melafix, Pimafix, Aquari-sol, and aquarium salt on hand but
will also purchase anything that might be suggested. Thanks, Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23731 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
Water temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH readings would be
helpful. What are you feeding? What size is the tank? Any other fish in
the tank? How recent did you acquire the fish? How long did you have the
platy before the birth event? How many of the fry are still surviving?

We need as much information as you can give to help you out.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of mikewarr2
Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with sick and dying fish.

I recently got three new fish (1 guppy and 2 platys) that are now sick
and dying. The guppy stopped eating and started swimming in place on
Saturday night and was dead the next morning. One of Platys stopped
eating Sunday night and is now close, I think, to dying as it is now
laying on the bottom of the tank and, at times, getting bumped along
the gravel with the current. I did notice that this fish's abdomen is
quite enlarged and appears to lave a bloody mark underneath the skin
on the underside of the abdomen. This fish had babies last Wednesday.
The other platy appears to be ok. Tomorrow will be two weeks that I
have had these fish. My question is what can I do to protect the last
remaining fish in the tank? Should I try adding something to the tank?
I have Melafix, Pimafix, Aquari-sol, and aquarium salt on hand but
will also purchase anything that might be suggested. Thanks, Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23732 From: mikewarr2 Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
Thanks for your help Steve. Water temp is 82.3F (I do not have A/C
and live in So Cal, heater is set at 75F), ammonia is at 0ppm,
nitrite is 0ppm, nitrate is between 10 and 20ppm, pH is about 8.0 (I
use tap water and treat with AmQuel+ and NovAqua+), I got the fish
on Aug 15 (we received the fish as part of my daughters preschool
field trip to a pet store) and the fry were born the morning of Aug
20. The fish were feeding on the fry at the time and I have seen no
fry since the 20th. The tank is a 6gal Eclipse (I know its small but
it is the largest I have) that has held a Betta in it since
December. I removed the Betta on Aug 15 and did a partial water
change of about 2.5 gal and added Cycle, Tidy Tank, and Vitachem per
instructions and then placed the new fish in the tank. On Aug 17 I
added an air pump and air stones to the tank as the fish appeared to
be starving for air in the high water temp. I feed the fish in the
morning alternating between TetraMin tropical flakes or Nutrafin
Livebearer and feed in the evening with TetraMin tropical granules.
I did another partial water change on Aug 22 identical to the one on
the 15th (did not add Tidy Tank on this one) and was planning on
doing another tomorrow. By the way, the sick platy has now died
leaving the second platy the sole occupant of the tank

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Water temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH readings
would be
> helpful. What are you feeding? What size is the tank? Any other
fish in
> the tank? How recent did you acquire the fish? How long did you
have the
> platy before the birth event? How many of the fry are still
surviving?
>
> We need as much information as you can give to help you out.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of mikewarr2
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with sick and dying fish.
>
> I recently got three new fish (1 guppy and 2 platys) that are now
sick
> and dying. The guppy stopped eating and started swimming in place
on
> Saturday night and was dead the next morning. One of Platys
stopped
> eating Sunday night and is now close, I think, to dying as it is
now
> laying on the bottom of the tank and, at times, getting bumped
along
> the gravel with the current. I did notice that this fish's abdomen
is
> quite enlarged and appears to lave a bloody mark underneath the
skin
> on the underside of the abdomen. This fish had babies last
Wednesday.
> The other platy appears to be ok. Tomorrow will be two weeks that
I
> have had these fish. My question is what can I do to protect the
last
> remaining fish in the tank? Should I try adding something to the
tank?
> I have Melafix, Pimafix, Aquari-sol, and aquarium salt on hand but
> will also purchase anything that might be suggested. Thanks, Mike
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23733 From: Noah Burge Date: 8/28/2007
Subject: Er...dumb question?
Are we as fishkeepers destined to be constantly cutting out pieces of
cardboard or mesh cloth to cover up any holes a fish may escape
through? Has anyone found a better way? I'd love to hear any
suggestions! :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23734 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Help with sick and dying fish.
The stress of the move and birth of the fry is probably what did in the platy. Other than the initial treatment of water to remove chlorine or chloromines, I do not like to use chemicals in the tank. There have been various reports of problems using the plus versions of Amquel and Novaqua, so I might want to pursue this avenue of research on the web to determine if these may have had an affect on the fish. The others you mention, I am not familiar with, so I'll leave the comments on those to others.

Is your water's pH that high out of the tap? While many livebearers prefer water that is higher on the pH scale, if it is much higher than that that they lived in at the store, this may have caused you some problems also, usually called pH shock.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of mikewarr2
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 12:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help with sick and dying fish.

Thanks for your help Steve. Water temp is 82.3F (I do not have A/C
and live in So Cal, heater is set at 75F), ammonia is at 0ppm,
nitrite is 0ppm, nitrate is between 10 and 20ppm, pH is about 8.0 (I
use tap water and treat with AmQuel+ and NovAqua+), I got the fish
on Aug 15 (we received the fish as part of my daughters preschool
field trip to a pet store) and the fry were born the morning of Aug
20. The fish were feeding on the fry at the time and I have seen no
fry since the 20th. The tank is a 6gal Eclipse (I know its small but
it is the largest I have) that has held a Betta in it since
December. I removed the Betta on Aug 15 and did a partial water
change of about 2.5 gal and added Cycle, Tidy Tank, and Vitachem per
instructions and then placed the new fish in the tank. On Aug 17 I
added an air pump and air stones to the tank as the fish appeared to
be starving for air in the high water temp. I feed the fish in the
morning alternating between TetraMin tropical flakes or Nutrafin
Livebearer and feed in the evening with TetraMin tropical granules.
I did another partial water change on Aug 22 identical to the one on
the 15th (did not add Tidy Tank on this one) and was planning on
doing another tomorrow. By the way, the sick platy has now died
leaving the second platy the sole occupant of the tank

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Water temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH readings
would be
> helpful. What are you feeding? What size is the tank? Any other
fish in
> the tank? How recent did you acquire the fish? How long did you
have the
> platy before the birth event? How many of the fry are still
surviving?
>
> We need as much information as you can give to help you out.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of mikewarr2
> Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2007 9:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Help with sick and dying fish.
>
> I recently got three new fish (1 guppy and 2 platys) that are now
sick
> and dying. The guppy stopped eating and started swimming in place
on
> Saturday night and was dead the next morning. One of Platys
stopped
> eating Sunday night and is now close, I think, to dying as it is
now
> laying on the bottom of the tank and, at times, getting bumped
along
> the gravel with the current. I did notice that this fish's abdomen
is
> quite enlarged and appears to lave a bloody mark underneath the
skin
> on the underside of the abdomen. This fish had babies last
Wednesday.
> The other platy appears to be ok. Tomorrow will be two weeks that
I
> have had these fish. My question is what can I do to protect the
last
> remaining fish in the tank? Should I try adding something to the
tank?
> I have Melafix, Pimafix, Aquari-sol, and aquarium salt on hand but
> will also purchase anything that might be suggested. Thanks, Mike
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23735 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Make your own tank covers.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 2:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Er...dumb question?

Are we as fishkeepers destined to be constantly cutting out pieces of
cardboard or mesh cloth to cover up any holes a fish may escape
through? Has anyone found a better way? I'd love to hear any
suggestions! :)



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23736 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
It's a common plec. I know the tank (a 20 long) is too small, for the
plec and the goldie, and I'll need to do something about that. (My
husband bought the plec without doing any research, and I'm the one
who takes care of the aquariums.) I've been adding algae discs, but
the goldie gets to them before the plec, so I wait till long after the
lights go out and then add some discs in the hope the plec gets them.
About once a week I add a piece of cucumber (rubber banded to a rock).
I haven't noticed the plec trying to suck on the goldie since that one
time.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> What size tank and what are you feeding the Pleco? What kind of
Pleco?
>
> You may hear alarmist stories but most of the time they can peacefully
> coexist but occasionally, there are instances where pleco's (which are
> omnivores... they eat algae, plants, fish, etc.) will go after slow
moving
> wide-bodied fish. If your pleco has this penchant, you may need to
rehome
> one of the fish. It's no different than a community tank where some
fish
> may not get along. As I mentioned, Pleco's are omnivores so they need
> protein in their diet.
>
> They can't live on algae alone or just scraps. You should be
feeding him
> something like algae thins or crisps which are hard dime-sized
wafers that
> are usually around 50% protein. I always fed my pleco whenever I fed my
> goldies but also at night after lights out, I would drop in one or
two algae
> wafers so he'd have plenty to eat so he wouldn't get hungry for
fresh fish.
> LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 3:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
>
> I have a common goldfish, now about six inches long, and a pleco who
is much
> smaller. Yesterday, the goldie swam over to the area where the pleco was
> feeding, and the pleco attempted to latch onto the goldie.
> Goldie apparently considered it a mere annoyance and moved away, but the
> pleco continued after her, but finally gave up. They've been tank
mates for
> over a year, but this is the first time I've seen this behavior.Can
fish get
> algae on themselves, or is there something about goldies that could have
> attracted the pleco?
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.9/975 - Release Date:
8/26/2007
> 9:34 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23737 From: kate hardy Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Hi Noah,
I'm assuming you're talking about fish jumping out of the top.(?) I had pieces of glass cut that sit right on the inside edge of the frame. It was the best way for me to accomodate the lights I use too.
Kate

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
Make your own tank covers.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 2:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Er...dumb question?

Are we as fishkeepers destined to be constantly cutting out pieces of
cardboard or mesh cloth to cover up any holes a fish may escape
through? Has anyone found a better way? I'd love to hear any
suggestions! :)

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23738 From: Ro Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: New Blog
Hi all,

I am making a blog about aquarium fish and where to find what in the
internet... There are so many pages now and sites that is hard to find
what you are looking for so I started this blog… Is not too big yet
but I would like some feed back on it. Any would be appreciated.



Ro

http://tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com/
<http://tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23739 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Er...dumb question?
Get a bigger/deeper tank and keep the water level lower.

Or buy a sheet of plexiglass at your local big box home store and custom cut
it to fit your top. This will also help keep down the evaporation of water
that takes place in tanks since the evaporated water will collect on the
plexiglass and drip back into the tank.

Or get big fat clumsy fancy goldfish (like mine) that can't jump even if
food was held right above the water... and they'll do nearly anything for
food. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 1:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Er...dumb question?

Are we as fishkeepers destined to be constantly cutting out pieces of
cardboard or mesh cloth to cover up any holes a fish may escape through? Has
anyone found a better way? I'd love to hear any suggestions! :)



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007
4:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23740 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
The undersized tank could also lead to fish being more aggressive. It's
basic Darwinism... survival of the fittest... so one fish will try to kill
off the competition to give itself a better chance at survival. You have
two VERY BIG FISH so you will need a 100G tank if you plan to keep both of
them... but it would be better if you rehome one or both if you can't get a
much larger tank real soon. The pleco will win the survival battle!

It's like locking you up in a 6 x 10 cell with a big burly convict and you
have nowhere to hide. You might survive but you won't like your living
conditions very much. Furthermore, something else I didn't touch on in my
earlier reply... Pleco's are mostly nocturnal so it's moving around the dark
tank all hours of the night which severely disturbs the goldfishes sleep
which will lead to further stress/health issues.

I'd aim for at least a 55G 4' long tank if the goldfish is a round-bodied
goldfish and that tank would make a pretty good home for it and maybe one
more. You can advertise on Freecycle.org (your local group) and check their
forums (usually YahooGroups like this one) as someone may be giving one
away. I see aquariums listed all of the time on my local Freecycle group.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2007 12:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie

It's a common plec. I know the tank (a 20 long) is too small, for the plec
and the goldie, and I'll need to do something about that. (My husband bought
the plec without doing any research, and I'm the one who takes care of the
aquariums.) I've been adding algae discs, but the goldie gets to them before
the plec, so I wait till long after the lights go out and then add some
discs in the hope the plec gets them.
About once a week I add a piece of cucumber (rubber banded to a rock).
I haven't noticed the plec trying to suck on the goldie since that one time.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> What size tank and what are you feeding the Pleco? What kind of
Pleco?
>
> You may hear alarmist stories but most of the time they can peacefully
> coexist but occasionally, there are instances where pleco's (which are
> omnivores... they eat algae, plants, fish, etc.) will go after slow
moving
> wide-bodied fish. If your pleco has this penchant, you may need to
rehome
> one of the fish. It's no different than a community tank where some
fish
> may not get along. As I mentioned, Pleco's are omnivores so they need
> protein in their diet.
>
> They can't live on algae alone or just scraps. You should be
feeding him
> something like algae thins or crisps which are hard dime-sized
wafers that
> are usually around 50% protein. I always fed my pleco whenever I fed
> my goldies but also at night after lights out, I would drop in one or
two algae
> wafers so he'd have plenty to eat so he wouldn't get hungry for
fresh fish.
> LOL
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 3:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] My pleco was trying to suck on my goldie
>
> I have a common goldfish, now about six inches long, and a pleco who
is much
> smaller. Yesterday, the goldie swam over to the area where the pleco
> was feeding, and the pleco attempted to latch onto the goldie.
> Goldie apparently considered it a mere annoyance and moved away, but
> the pleco continued after her, but finally gave up. They've been tank
mates for
> over a year, but this is the first time I've seen this behavior.Can
fish get
> algae on themselves, or is there something about goldies that could
> have attracted the pleco?
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007
4:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23741 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Possible ich - now what?
Hi -

Long time since I posted. Everyone gave such great advice when I
was cycling my new tank thought I'd ask another question.

My 52gal tank has now been fully stocked. It may be a little over
but here's what I've got:

9 danios
4 swordtails
2 mollies
1 red fin shark
2 dwarf sunset gouramis
1 syndontis eupterus catfish

Just added (last fish I was going to add) 4 serpae tetra. Was going
to add five and brought home 5 fish but one turned out to be a
glassfish. After determining this was what he was (not dyed) and
that he needed another of his species to be happy (at least one
anyway) I went back and got another one from the same store (same
tank serpae tetra were in). In looking at one of those glassfish
today it looks like he has white spots on him?

I'm now terrified it's ich and will spread to my other fish? I
could have sworn I read that catfish don't do well with ich
treatments and I LOVE my catfish.

I'm tempted to pull the affected fish out and humanely destroy him
as I don't have a quarantine tank (bad person I know, I know). Even
if I did this is it too late for the other fish?

I test my water frequently and do 1/3 or little less water changes
every two weeks. ph is 7.4, no ammonia, no nitrites and very little
nitrates.

Any advice out there?
Thanks!
Tracy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23742 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Tracy, Tracy, Tracy... this is why we preach so much about putting ALL new
fish through a quarantine process before moving them to your main tank but
enough of my preaching.

First, you should Google images of Ich and make sure this is what you have.
I've seen countless posts in forums where people over-medicated for things
their fish did not have, sometimes causing more problems or deaths. This
site, http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures of many
fish diseases/pathogens, including Ich so check it out and save the site in
your favorites folder. My blog has a lot more resources listed as well.

Look on FreeCycle.org for your local group and see if you can pick up a free
tank or entire set up ASAP. A 10G works great for a Q-tank or H-tank. You
can leave it empty most of the time with a small HOB or corner filter
running in your big tank so it's always cycled and ready to move to the 10G
when needed. You could move the catfish to the 10G now in the event your
display tank is already infected so you can treat the entire display tank
while using a safer treatment on the catfish... or you could move the
infected fish to the 10G and treat it now and hope your main tank isn't
infected.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Possible ich - now what?

Hi -

Long time since I posted. Everyone gave such great advice when I was cycling
my new tank thought I'd ask another question.

My 52gal tank has now been fully stocked. It may be a little over but here's
what I've got:

9 danios
4 swordtails
2 mollies
1 red fin shark
2 dwarf sunset gouramis
1 syndontis eupterus catfish

Just added (last fish I was going to add) 4 serpae tetra. Was going to add
five and brought home 5 fish but one turned out to be a glassfish. After
determining this was what he was (not dyed) and that he needed another of
his species to be happy (at least one
anyway) I went back and got another one from the same store (same tank
serpae tetra were in). In looking at one of those glassfish today it looks
like he has white spots on him?

I'm now terrified it's ich and will spread to my other fish? I could have
sworn I read that catfish don't do well with ich treatments and I LOVE my
catfish.

I'm tempted to pull the affected fish out and humanely destroy him as I
don't have a quarantine tank (bad person I know, I know). Even if I did this
is it too late for the other fish?

I test my water frequently and do 1/3 or little less water changes every two
weeks. ph is 7.4, no ammonia, no nitrites and very little nitrates.

Any advice out there?
Thanks!
Tracy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date: 8/28/2007
4:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23743 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
I know, I'm an idiot. Kicking myself here. :o)

The other tetra and both glassfish came from the same tank at the
store. Should I remove all of them and "hope" my other tank is ok?
Danios are acting a bit strange but started that just before I
brought anyone new home. They were all schooled at one corner that
night and tonight I have 3 at the top acting normal, one behind the
filter return and the rest hanging out at the bottom but swimming
fine.

The link in your e-mail doesn't work but I did a look up and that's
what it looked like. There was a good article on it in a cichlid
forum that talked about raising the temperature to 86 degrees
gradually (degree an hour or something like that) to treat it with
heat and salt instead of medications? Sounded like it might be
safer for my catfish? http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

Tracy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy, Tracy, Tracy... this is why we preach so much about putting
ALL new
> fish through a quarantine process before moving them to your main
tank but
> enough of my preaching.
>
> First, you should Google images of Ich and make sure this is what
you have.
> I've seen countless posts in forums where people over-medicated
for things
> their fish did not have, sometimes causing more problems or
deaths. This
> site, http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html has lots of pictures
of many
> fish diseases/pathogens, including Ich so check it out and save
the site in
> your favorites folder. My blog has a lot more resources listed as
well.
>
> Look on FreeCycle.org for your local group and see if you can pick
up a free
> tank or entire set up ASAP. A 10G works great for a Q-tank or H-
tank. You
> can leave it empty most of the time with a small HOB or corner
filter
> running in your big tank so it's always cycled and ready to move
to the 10G
> when needed. You could move the catfish to the 10G now in the
event your
> display tank is already infected so you can treat the entire
display tank
> while using a safer treatment on the catfish... or you could move
the
> infected fish to the 10G and treat it now and hope your main tank
isn't
> infected.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:14 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Possible ich - now what?
>
> Hi -
>
> Long time since I posted. Everyone gave such great advice when I
was cycling
> my new tank thought I'd ask another question.
>
> My 52gal tank has now been fully stocked. It may be a little over
but here's
> what I've got:
>
> 9 danios
> 4 swordtails
> 2 mollies
> 1 red fin shark
> 2 dwarf sunset gouramis
> 1 syndontis eupterus catfish
>
> Just added (last fish I was going to add) 4 serpae tetra. Was
going to add
> five and brought home 5 fish but one turned out to be a glassfish.
After
> determining this was what he was (not dyed) and that he needed
another of
> his species to be happy (at least one
> anyway) I went back and got another one from the same store (same
tank
> serpae tetra were in). In looking at one of those glassfish today
it looks
> like he has white spots on him?
>
> I'm now terrified it's ich and will spread to my other fish? I
could have
> sworn I read that catfish don't do well with ich treatments and I
LOVE my
> catfish.
>
> I'm tempted to pull the affected fish out and humanely destroy him
as I
> don't have a quarantine tank (bad person I know, I know). Even if
I did this
> is it too late for the other fish?
>
> I test my water frequently and do 1/3 or little less water changes
every two
> weeks. ph is 7.4, no ammonia, no nitrites and very little
nitrates.
>
> Any advice out there?
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.10/977 - Release Date:
8/28/2007
> 4:29 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23744 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/29/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Occasionally, Pandora's site, FishPalace.org goes down but it is mirrored on
another site, http://www.2cah.com/pandora/Disease.html but that one seems
to be down right now too. Normally, one or the other is working. I hope
this is only temporary. Here is her original article on Ich hosted on
Badman's site, http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article2.html.

The one on Cichlid-Forums is also good but Cichlids are a very hardy fish
compared to most other species. Here's a couple of other good articles.
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml and
http://aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17.

Here's a recent Ich thread on PlecoFanatics.com where they discuss various
treatments/medicines.
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39378

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Possible ich - now what?

I know, I'm an idiot. Kicking myself here. :o)

The other tetra and both glassfish came from the same tank at the store.
Should I remove all of them and "hope" my other tank is ok?
Danios are acting a bit strange but started that just before I brought
anyone new home. They were all schooled at one corner that night and tonight
I have 3 at the top acting normal, one behind the filter return and the rest
hanging out at the bottom but swimming fine.

The link in your e-mail doesn't work but I did a look up and that's what it
looked like. There was a good article on it in a cichlid forum that talked
about raising the temperature to 86 degrees gradually (degree an hour or
something like that) to treat it with heat and salt instead of medications?
Sounded like it might be safer for my catfish?
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
<http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php>

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Tracy, Tracy, Tracy... this is why we preach so much about putting
ALL new
> fish through a quarantine process before moving them to your main
tank but
> enough of my preaching.
>
> First, you should Google images of Ich and make sure this is what
you have.
> I've seen countless posts in forums where people over-medicated
for things
> their fish did not have, sometimes causing more problems or
deaths. This
> site, http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html
> <http://www.fishpalace.org/Disease.html> has lots of pictures
of many
> fish diseases/pathogens, including Ich so check it out and save
the site in
> your favorites folder. My blog has a lot more resources listed as
well.
>
> Look on FreeCycle.org for your local group and see if you can pick
up a free
> tank or entire set up ASAP. A 10G works great for a Q-tank or H-
tank. You
> can leave it empty most of the time with a small HOB or corner
filter
> running in your big tank so it's always cycled and ready to move
to the 10G
> when needed. You could move the catfish to the 10G now in the
event your
> display tank is already infected so you can treat the entire
display tank
> while using a safer treatment on the catfish... or you could move
the
> infected fish to the 10G and treat it now and hope your main tank
isn't
> infected.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of jamakinmecrazy1
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:14 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Possible ich - now what?
>
> Hi -
>
> Long time since I posted. Everyone gave such great advice when I
was cycling
> my new tank thought I'd ask another question.
>
> My 52gal tank has now been fully stocked. It may be a little over
but here's
> what I've got:
>
> 9 danios
> 4 swordtails
> 2 mollies
> 1 red fin shark
> 2 dwarf sunset gouramis
> 1 syndontis eupterus catfish
>
> Just added (last fish I was going to add) 4 serpae tetra. Was
going to add
> five and brought home 5 fish but one turned out to be a glassfish.
After
> determining this was what he was (not dyed) and that he needed
another of
> his species to be happy (at least one
> anyway) I went back and got another one from the same store (same
tank
> serpae tetra were in). In looking at one of those glassfish today
it looks
> like he has white spots on him?
>
> I'm now terrified it's ich and will spread to my other fish? I
could have
> sworn I read that catfish don't do well with ich treatments and I
LOVE my
> catfish.
>
> I'm tempted to pull the affected fish out and humanely destroy him
as I
> don't have a quarantine tank (bad person I know, I know). Even if
I did this
> is it too late for the other fish?
>
> I test my water frequently and do 1/3 or little less water changes
every two
> weeks. ph is 7.4, no ammonia, no nitrites and very little
nitrates.
>
> Any advice out there?
> Thanks!
> Tracy
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007
8:21 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23745 From: jamakinmecrazy1 Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Possible ich - now what?
Thanks Lenny. My danios are just acting weird so maybe they are
having problems with it as well but don't have spots? Looks like I
should treat the whole tank. Started raising the temperature last
night. Usually at 76 and had it at 78 this morning but turned it up
a notch again before I left for work.

Calling the lfs this morning that's been in business for 30 years to
ask their advice with my fish load. I'm just sick about this. :o(

Tracy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Occasionally, Pandora's site, FishPalace.org goes down but it is
mirrored on
> another site, http://www.2cah.com/pandora/Disease.html but that
one seems
> to be down right now too. Normally, one or the other is working.
I hope
> this is only temporary. Here is her original article on Ich hosted
on
> Badman's site,
http://www.badmanstropicalfish.com/articles/article2.html.
>
> The one on Cichlid-Forums is also good but Cichlids are a very
hardy fish
> compared to most other species. Here's a couple of other good
articles.
> http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml and
> http://aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17.
>
> Here's a recent Ich thread on PlecoFanatics.com where they discuss
various
> treatments/medicines.
> http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39378
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23746 From: kate hardy Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686.jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe.jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44.jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68


Take care,
Kate


---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23747 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes
to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686
jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe
jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44
jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68


Take care,
Kate


---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23748 From: Richard Rattie Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: pond plants
I am not sure which list that someone asked where we bought our plants for our watergarden but here is the URL to the ladies inventory on ebay. We bought over half of our plants from there and were VERY pleased.

http://stores.ebay.com/HELENS-PERENNIAL-WATER-GARDENS

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23749 From: Jim Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Ammonia Levels
Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about
the ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a
starter aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20
gallon tank that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I
conditioned the water for about a week, per the instructions that
came with the kit. After a week passed, I took a sample of the water
to my local pet store to have it tested. The salesman informed me
that the water was habitable for fish, so I purchased three Danios,
which are all still alive to date. I also purchased a water test kit
so that I could start testing the water levels on my own. The problem
I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I have
an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I
test the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which
indicates that the water is at a stress level for the fish. I have
performed several partial water changes using a water conditioner
called Prime. Despite almost daily water changes, I cannot get the
ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is supposed to be the most
suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the tap water in my
apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very high. I went
back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound
piece of advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem
financially feasible for me to have to purchase several gallons of
distilled water every time I need to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia
level to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia
level in my tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping
fish in the first place? Sorry about all the questions, but I
obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23750 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily
toxic depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that
explains ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you
are using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is
non-toxic once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia
but when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia
level of the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I
refill the tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007
8:21 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23751 From: Aaron Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: New pictures/Cherry Shrimp
Hi Kate,

The Aquarium is looking much better.

That is a great pic of the Oto, I have added some more pics to your
Album that I edited with Adobe Photoshop Album Starter Edition.

http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshopalbum/starter.html

I can still see your reflection, only way I know to avoid any
reflections on the glass is to take the pictures in a dark room. i.e.
at night with no lights on other than the Aquarium lights.

Yours look better without the Flash.

What kind of lighting is that on the tank? It looks great.

I like the Leaf Fish pics too.


Try to get a close up of the Shrimp if you can by zooming in tight on
it, you can cut and crop after as well.



http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/FishTankPics/join




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
> I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when
it comes to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know.
There's a couple of updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason
the link doesn't work you can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album....

> Take care,
> Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23752 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Once you have gotten the tank through the initial cycle, the ammonia
should be of minimal concern as the established bacteria will handle it.
For something that will help with the ammonia, take a look at
http://www.hikariusa.com for their water conditioners. They have a
product that will change the ammonia into a non-toxic form for your fish
while still allowing you to establish the nitrogen cycle.

When you purchase test kits, look for an expiration date on the reagents
that come with the kit. If the kit has no expiration date for the
reagents, look for another test kit. The best kit I have found goes
under the AquaTru name. They have a unique vial that makes it very easy
to do the color comparison, and their reagents are dated and
pre-measured. Powdered reagents are considered to be more stable and
more convenient to use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 7:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about
the ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a
starter aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20
gallon tank that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I
conditioned the water for about a week, per the instructions that
came with the kit. After a week passed, I took a sample of the water
to my local pet store to have it tested. The salesman informed me
that the water was habitable for fish, so I purchased three Danios,
which are all still alive to date. I also purchased a water test kit
so that I could start testing the water levels on my own. The problem
I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I have
an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I
test the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which
indicates that the water is at a stress level for the fish. I have
performed several partial water changes using a water conditioner
called Prime. Despite almost daily water changes, I cannot get the
ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is supposed to be the most
suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the tap water in my
apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very high. I went
back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound
piece of advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem
financially feasible for me to have to purchase several gallons of
distilled water every time I need to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia
level to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia
level in my tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping
fish in the first place? Sorry about all the questions, but I
obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23753 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Directions for the Master test kit?
I have a Freshwater Mast Test kit made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, and
I only have the directions for doing the Ammonia, pH, high range pH,
and Nitrite, but don't have the original booklet for doing GH and KH.
Anyone have these directions laying around? Have a similar kit? It's an
older kit, probably 5 years old, maybe more, and was sold before API re-
did their packaging. Thanks!

Looks identical to this one sold at Walmart:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?
dest=9999999997&product_id=3635493&sourceid=1500000000000002217280
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23754 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/30/2007
Subject: Re: Directions for the Master test kit?
If it's 5 years old, it's not accurate any longer anyhow.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

If it's not expired, go to API's website http://www.aquariumpharm.com and
they have a "contact us" page and they've always replied promptly to my
inquiries.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 12:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Directions for the Master test kit?

I have a Freshwater Mast Test kit made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, and I
only have the directions for doing the Ammonia, pH, high range pH, and
Nitrite, but don't have the original booklet for doing GH and KH.
Anyone have these directions laying around? Have a similar kit? It's an
older kit, probably 5 years old, maybe more, and was sold before API re- did
their packaging. Thanks!

Looks identical to this one sold at Walmart:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?
<http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?>
dest=9999999997&product_id=3635493&sourceid=1500000000000002217280


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007
8:21 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23755 From: kate hardy Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Hi Rei,
They came from a LFS. I wouldn't think that a guppy would eat them but I honestly don't know much about Guppy diets and I'm still learning about the shrimp. There is quite a bit of info about them online and places to order them as well. I covered my filter intakes with filter media bags, per Lenny's suggestion, so you could do that if you're worried about them being sucked in.
Mine are actually not doing so well. I went back and bought 11 more after the first six and I have found several dead ones since. I've only been able to find 4 of them alive today, granted they do hide in the wood and plants. Everything I've read says they are really versatile, as far as water parameters and temperatures, but I wonder if there is anyone on the list who would mind chatting with me about them? Lenny?
Thanks!
Kate

Rei - Raymond Tremor <lovemoako@...> wrote:
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes
to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686
jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe
jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44
jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68


Take care,
Kate


---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23756 From: kate hardy Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some folks not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water parameters look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I always worry about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly sucking up shrimp, especially the babies.
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily
toxic depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that
explains ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you
are using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is
non-toxic once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia
but when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia
level of the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I
refill the tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007
8:21 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23757 From: Donna Ransome Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
I don’t think it’s possible for your water parameters to look good if you
don’t do PWC. Unless you have a LOT of plants and few fish you are going to
have increasing Nitrates without PWC. Also there are probably a lot of
other harmful chemicals we are diluting with fresh water each week that we
don’t measure.



Some people do PWC according to their Nitrate levels and that could be less
often than once/week. I like to shoot for between 10ppm and 20ppm Nitrates.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels



Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some folks
not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water parameters
look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I always worry
about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly sucking up shrimp,
especially the babies.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@gmail. <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
com> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily
toxic depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that
explains ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru. <http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html>
org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you
are using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is
non-toxic once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-
<http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php>
forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia
but when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia
level of the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I
refill the tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date: 8/29/2007
8:21 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

---------------------------------
Got a little couch potato?
Check out fun summer activities for kids.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23758 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Are you sure they are dead or is it just the molted shell? Many cherry
shrimp (and other species) are prone to molting after they get into a new
home. After they molt, they do not have the protection of a hard shell so
they go into hiding for a few days. If you have fish that like fresh
shrimp, then they may be eating the shrimp when they are in this vulnerable
stage. Here's a DIY Shrimp Cave you can put on the bottom of your tank to
provide them a safe haven when they molt. It's about 1/2 way down on the
page.
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/shrimp_ghost.htm I
don't usually recommend that site as a general source as it gives a lot of
bad information on stocking, etc., but it does have the DIY Shrimp Cave
article.

If your shrimp are actually dying, then you have something wrong with your
water... either copper or medicine or other chemicals that are killing the
shrimp. I feed mine a small piece of algae wafer and the algae wafer (used
for feeding pleco's) are hard so it takes a while for it to soften/dissolve
but while it's on the bottom, I can see my dozens (or maybe a hundred) of
shrimp jockeying for position to get their meal. I honestly can't say that
I've seen any of my cherry shrimp actually die but I'm sure some of them
have. I've noticed planaria crawling around on occasion so I'm sure they
are eating the dead shrimp when it happens.

I use API's tap water conditioner as the ONLY additive to my cherry shrimp
tank and do weekly PWC's to keep a constant influx of my moderately hard
water so the shrimp have lots of calcium, etc. for good shell growth. It's
also good to feed them foods that are high in calcium, especially if you do
not have harder water. Read the ingredients and vitamin info on your fish
foods. Usually if they have fish meal, which most have, that means there is
usually a high calcium content since fish meal is ground up fish (including
the bones) so there is a lot of calcium in fish meal.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.

Hi Rei,
They came from a LFS. I wouldn't think that a guppy would eat them but I
honestly don't know much about Guppy diets and I'm still learning about the
shrimp. There is quite a bit of info about them online and places to order
them as well. I covered my filter intakes with filter media bags, per
Lenny's suggestion, so you could do that if you're worried about them being
sucked in.
Mine are actually not doing so well. I went back and bought 11 more after
the first six and I have found several dead ones since. I've only been able
to find 4 of them alive today, granted they do hide in the wood and plants.
Everything I've read says they are really versatile, as far as water
parameters and temperatures, but I wonder if there is anyone on the list who
would mind chatting with me about them? Lenny?
Thanks!
Kate

Rei - Raymond Tremor <lovemoako@... <mailto:lovemoako%40gmail.com> >
wrote:
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes to
photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686
<http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686>
jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe
<http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe>
jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44
<http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44>
jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68

Take care,
Kate


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0/980 - Release Date: 8/30/2007
6:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23759 From: Steve Szabo Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
What happens when water changes are not done? A lot. The biological
processes that occur in a tank will gradually reduce the pH. Fish in the
tank release other substances in addition to ammonia. These will
gradually build up. Among them would be a hormone that limits growth in
fish, thus stunting those that are not always full grown. Without enough
live plants, nitrates will rise. Water will gradually become harder as
minerals in your water build up as you continue to add water to replace
that which evaporates.

Since these changes are gradual, your fish will become used to it,
unless you have fish that are susceptible to nitrates, or any other
chemical that will increase in concentration. If you add new fish, they
may not survive long due to the soup you are now placing them in.

Regular partial water changes will help alleviate this as does good
maintenance of the tank and equipment you use.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some
folks not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water
parameters look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I
always worry about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly
sucking up shrimp, especially the babies.
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for
your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water
after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine
&
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily
toxic depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that
explains ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html

Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you
are using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is
non-toxic once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working
properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria
start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is
far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of
salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish
from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do
frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle...
when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate
levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas
of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia
but when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia
level of the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I
refill the tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter
Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I
know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but
you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing
away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about
the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water
for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish,
so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also
purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my
own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the
fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I
test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that
the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several
partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost
daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested
the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and
they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece
of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible
for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I
need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia
level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in
my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23760 From: William Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Also if the nitrates get too high it will start to kill the good
bacteria what help get rid of ammonia and nitrite.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> What happens when water changes are not done? A lot. The biological
> processes that occur in a tank will gradually reduce the pH. Fish
in the
> tank release other substances in addition to ammonia. These will
> gradually build up. Among them would be a hormone that limits
growth in
> fish, thus stunting those that are not always full grown. Without
enough
> live plants, nitrates will rise. Water will gradually become
harder as
> minerals in your water build up as you continue to add water to
replace
> that which evaporates.
>
> Since these changes are gradual, your fish will become used to it,
> unless you have fish that are susceptible to nitrates, or any other
> chemical that will increase in concentration. If you add new fish,
they
> may not survive long due to the soup you are now placing them in.
>
> Regular partial water changes will help alleviate this as does good
> maintenance of the tank and equipment you use.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23761 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Kate Hardy asked:

"There was a comment a while back about some folks not ever doing water
changes, just topping off."

GoldLenny's reply:

I wonder if those same people take showers/baths or just top off their
deodorant? I'd sure hate to be stuck in a small room with them. LOL

There are SO MANY other things happening with the biology, chemistry and
overall ecology of a fish tank that we cannot test for. We only test for
the basic and rudimentary things that are easy to test for. In nature, God
provides constant fresh water for most bodies of water via rain, streams,
tides, etc. We need to mimic that same process by doing PWC's.

People who never do PWC's and just top off are just plain lazy and shouldn't
be keeping fish or any other pet. I wonder if they ever wash their other
pets dishes or just top off the food and water? I wonder if they clean
their babies bottoms during a diaper change or just put on a new diaper?

Now, there are certain tank set-ups like the Walstad Planted Aquarium that
claims to not need regular PWC's but that is the exception, not the rule.
It is a heavily planted tank with a light fish bioload and the substrate
provides a constant source of macro and trace elements to the plants and
fish.

Doing a PWC should not cause any stress to your fish once they get use to
it. Heck, my goldfish follow the siphon tube around hoping it will stir up
some uneaten morsel that they somehow missed while foraging in the gravel.
Now, my Pleco was a bit skittish about the siphon tube but he would just
swim to the other end of the tank. I don't swing my siphon tube around
chasing the fish. I start in one corner, shove the tube down into the
gravel until it's sucking mostly clear water, then move it over one tube
width and do this until I am done. The fish who don't like the tube will
move away while others will follow it around hoping for a morsel.

NOT doing PWC's will definitely cause stress to your fish from a potential
pH crash to funky dirty water, to various health issues, etc., etc.

There's a saying... "Dilution is the solution to pollution" and it holds
true with our fish tanks as well. Doing regular PWC's constantly dilutes
the pollution that would build up in a closed ecology system such as most
aquariums.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some folks
not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water parameters
look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I always worry
about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly sucking up shrimp,
especially the babies.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily toxic
depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that explains
ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
<http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html>

Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you are
using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is non-toxic
once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
<http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php>

Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia but
when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia level of
the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I refill the
tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0/980 - Release Date: 8/30/2007
6:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23762 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 8/31/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Kate, In response to your question, besides the "necessity" of doing
doing PWC's, its also a matter of ones attitude towards it. It
shouldn't be looked upon as a chore, but rather something that the
hobbyist is constantly eagerly looking forward to in trying to
maintain the water quality closest to the continually fresh water
found in the fishes' natural environment.

As for being concerned about any "stress" placed on the fish by these
PWC's, why would you think that, unless you're thinking about the
possible psychological (mental) stress during the physical process of
it and not the changes in chemistry of the water taking place at this
time. Although it has already been said here that the fish will get
used to it, without further elaboration I take that to mean they'll
get used to your "messing" around their tank, protruding into their
little world with your equipment, which they will.

There is little if any stress with the actual change of water and its
chemistry related to it when its properly maintained. Looking at it
this way, the larger and more frequent (within reason) you do these
PWC's, the closer the tank water will be constantly maintained to the
chemistry of the new tap water you're changing out. Allowing the
tank water to go unchanged for long periods (with its subsequent
changes in chemistry) and then changing out water will stress the
fish immeasureably more since the chemistry between the two waters
(tank and tap) will be increasingly different as time goes by. The
more water you can change, the closer the two waters will be,
nullifying any possible stress factor that may ordinarily manifest
itself with changes of unequal water quality. It pays to keep up
with your water changes to keep any such stress factors at a minimum
(besides giving your fish the best possible environmental medium you
can supply and maintain them in). Yes, you will have to be careful
of sucking up shrimp and/or fry. Perhaps you may need to look at
making changes to your equipment. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, kate hardy <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about
some folks not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your
water parameters look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once
a week? I always worry about the stress it puts on the fish and now
possibly sucking up shrimp, especially the babies.
> Kate
>
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't
normally
> recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better
for your
> fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which
will
> treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
> neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap
water after
> your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond
(chlorine &
> ammonia).
>
> What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not
necessarily
> toxic depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that
> explains ammonia toxicity.
> http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
>
> Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime.
Since you
> are using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is
> non-toxic once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working
properly.
> Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test
Kit.
> Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
> products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
>
> Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria
start
> growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite
is far
> more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch
of salt
> (mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the
fish from
> nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do
frequent
> PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.
>
> Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen
cycle... when
> you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to
show a
> nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to
the
> other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your
nitrate levels
> by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
> frequently.
>
> Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
> nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface
areas of
> your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
> immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of
ammonia
> but when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the
ammonia
> level of the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running
while I
> refill the tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately
converted.
>
> Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter
Maintenance &
> Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers.
I know
> the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks
but you
> definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be
throwing away
> your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently
about the
> ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a
starter
> aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon
tank
> that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the
water for
> about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a
week
> passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have
it
> tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for
fish, so I
> purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also
purchased
> a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on
my own.
> The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for
the fish. I
> have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each
time I test
> the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates
that the
> water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several
partial
> water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite
almost daily
> water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which
is
> supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I
tested the
> tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is
very
> high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do,
and they
> suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
> eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound
piece of
> advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially
feasible for
> me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every
time I need
> to perform a partial water change.
> Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the
ammonia level
> to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia
level in my
> tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the
first
> place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help.
Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.12/979 - Release Date:
8/29/2007
> 8:21 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Got a little couch potato?
> Check out fun summer activities for kids.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23763 From: azariamum1 Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: Anyone on here in adelaide south australia wanting to sell/swap chi
hi just wondered if anyone on here is in south australia. that would
like to sell or swap cichlids. my friend and i love them and would
love to take any u cant look after anymore or would like to sell or
possibly swap. she has a south american redhead she would like to swap
for an african cichlid. cheers have a great day!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23764 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Do you have a link to get to the seller or something?

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/31/2007 8:51:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.

Hi Rei,
They came from a LFS. I wouldn't think that a guppy would eat them but I
honestly don't know much about Guppy diets and I'm still learning about the
shrimp. There is quite a bit of info about them online and places to order
them as well. I covered my filter intakes with filter media bags, per Lenny
s suggestion, so you could do that if you're worried about them being sucked
in.
Mine are actually not doing so well. I went back and bought 11 more after
the first six and I have found several dead ones since. I've only been able
to find 4 of them alive today, granted they do hide in the wood and plants.
Everything I've read says they are really versatile, as far as water
parameters and temperatures, but I wonder if there is anyone on the list who
would mind chatting with me about them? Lenny?
Thanks!
Kate

Rei - Raymond Tremor <lovemoako@...> wrote:
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat
them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes
to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686
jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe
jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44
jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68


Take care,
Kate


---------------------------------
Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car
Finder tool.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23765 From: Outsource Techndu Date: 9/1/2007
Subject: New to this groups---Hello All
Hello friends,

I am New to this group.I would like to introduce my self.

I am from wales, love Spanish culture. doing business of Dent Removal Service at Wales, UK

hope to see you Again.


Steve Magill

http://buyspain.co.uk-- Budget Spanish Property
http://dentmasterwales.com---Paintless Dent Removal
http://Lvvservices.com--Mobile Dent Removal Service


---------------------------------
For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good this month.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23766 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: New to this groups---Hello All
Hey Steve, good to meet you. Welcome to the group!

> Hello friends,
>
> I am New to this group.I would like to introduce my self.
>
> I am from wales, love Spanish culture. doing business of Dent Removal
Service at Wales, UK

Steve Magill

> ---------------------------------
> For ideas on reducing your carbon footprint visit Yahoo! For Good
this month.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23767 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: My new loach!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23768 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood worms and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but pretty much ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out before a good storm. lol

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 4:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] My new loach!


If anyone's interested;
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/38b4?b=9
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/38b4?b=10
http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/38b4?b=11

Will these eat snails at all (since a lot of loaches do)?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23769 From: jules27au Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Orange Water
Hi,

In line with APEC, things in my tank are taking on a new colour, the
tank which is a topical community tank, with healthy fish, has orange/
browney water - why?

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23770 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Have you recently added any driftwood? It will release tannins, creating a "blackwater" effect. Not a bad thing but if you find it offensive, carbon and/or partial water changes will eliminate it. And remove the driftwood and soak it...

Carmen

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Orange Water



Hi,

In line with APEC, things in my tank are taking on a new colour, the
tank which is a topical community tank, with healthy fish, has orange/
browney water - why?

Cheers

Jules





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23771 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Do you have drift wood in the tank.



************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23772 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/2/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my fish
so far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do
see that I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a
thin layer, but he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting
his sensetive little barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is
soft and fine and will be perfect for him to root around in.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@...>
wrote:
>
> Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood
worms and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
pretty much ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will
freak out before a good storm. lol
>
> -Steve
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23773 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Or if it's a newly set up tank, it could be diatoms (aka brown algae) on the
glass which is making things appear brown. They can be easily cleaned off
and siphoned up with your PWC.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eskielists@...
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:41 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Have you recently added any driftwood? It will release tannins, creating a
"blackwater" effect. Not a bad thing but if you find it offensive, carbon
and/or partial water changes will eliminate it. And remove the driftwood and
soak it...

Carmen

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Hi,

In line with APEC, things in my tank are taking on a new colour, the tank
which is a topical community tank, with healthy fish, has orange/ browney
water - why?

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23774 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Noah,

You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of species of
loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the link to
it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that get
really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may have issues
with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size tank do
you have again?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!

Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my fish so
far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do see that
I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin layer, but
he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his sensetive little
barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine and will be
perfect for him to root around in.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@...>
wrote:
>
> Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood worms
and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but pretty much
ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out before a
good storm. lol
>
> -Steve


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23775 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@...>
wrote:
>
> Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood
worms and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
pretty much ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will
freak out before a good storm. lol
>
> -Steve
>
My dojo loaches eventually wiped out all the snails in the tank - they
seem to injure the larger varieties, and feed on smaller ones. I've
also seen them eat snail eggs. My eel case is now the only place I can
breed snails (Radix articularia japonica) which I add to other tanks as
weekend food.
For what it's worth.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23776 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO loaches
(how did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a
Dojo Loach aka Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I
have a 10 gallon tank. Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But
I told you I am new, and I will make mistakes. I am experiencing
this hobby as it comes. In the meantime, I will NOT let this fish
suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for finding him an excellent
home.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
species of
> loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
link to
> it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
get
> really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may have
issues
> with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
tank do
> you have again?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Noah,

That's why it's important to leave all the previous messages/posts in your
reply so people will be able to see what has been discussed already. I had
your post at the bottom of my reply but when you just replied to my post,
you snipped/edited the rest of the thread out so nobody can see what was
posted previously. There was NOTHING in YOUR post that I replied to that
said anything about a dojo/weather loach or any pictures. All I saw was
your answer to Steve but nothing in your answer even implied that you also
had a dojo loach.

Here's a couple of good profiles on them so you can learn more about them:

http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-anguillicaudatu
s

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html

Following this paragraph is your post which I replied to. Steve certainly
did refer to his loach as a dojo loach but all your subject title and post
talks about is "My new loach!" so there is no way I am going to infer that
you had a dojo loach also. It would be like me saying "My dog won't eat
bones" but then someone replies that "their labrador retriever loves
bones"... that doesn't mean I have a lab. Sorry you got offended!

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!

Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my fish so
far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do see that
I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin layer, but
he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his sensetive little
barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine and will be
perfect for him to root around in.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@...>
wrote:
>
> Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood worms
and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but pretty much
ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out before a
good storm. lol
>
> -Steve

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!

Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO loaches (how
did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post for this
thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach aka
Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon tank.
Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new, and I will
make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the meantime, I
will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for finding
him an excellent home.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
species of
> loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
link to
> it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
get
> really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may have
issues
> with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
tank do
> you have again?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23778 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
It's just that when I am reading a post, I can see every single post
associated with it. I assumed that was the case for you also; my bad.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> That's why it's important to leave all the previous messages/posts
in your
> reply so people will be able to see what has been discussed
already. I had
> your post at the bottom of my reply but when you just replied to my
post,
> you snipped/edited the rest of the thread out so nobody can see
what was
> posted previously. There was NOTHING in YOUR post that I replied
to that
> said anything about a dojo/weather loach or any pictures. All I
saw was
> your answer to Steve but nothing in your answer even implied that
you also
> had a dojo loach.
>
> Here's a couple of good profiles on them so you can learn more
about them:
>
> http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-
anguillicaudatu
> s
>
> http://www.aquatic-
hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html
>
> Following this paragraph is your post which I replied to. Steve
certainly
> did refer to his loach as a dojo loach but all your subject title
and post
> talks about is "My new loach!" so there is no way I am going to
infer that
> you had a dojo loach also. It would be like me saying "My dog
won't eat
> bones" but then someone replies that "their labrador retriever loves
> bones"... that doesn't mean I have a lab. Sorry you got offended!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
> settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my
fish so
> far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do
see that
> I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin
layer, but
> he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his sensetive
little
> barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine
and will be
> perfect for him to root around in.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
> they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood
worms
> and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
pretty much
> ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out
before a
> good storm. lol
> >
> > -Steve
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:05 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
loaches (how
> did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this
> thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach
aka
> Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon
tank.
> Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new,
and I will
> make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the
meantime, I
> will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for
finding
> him an excellent home.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> species of
> > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
> link to
> > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
> get
> > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
have
> issues
> > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
> tank do
> > you have again?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date:
9/2/2007
> 4:32 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23779 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it release tannins with age?

Jules

eskielists@... wrote:
Have you recently added any driftwood? It will release tannins, creating a "blackwater" effect. Not a bad thing but if you find it offensive, carbon and/or partial water changes will eliminate it. And remove the driftwood and soak it...

Carmen

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 11:13 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Hi,

In line with APEC, things in my tank are taking on a new colour, the
tank which is a topical community tank, with healthy fish, has orange/
browney water - why?

Cheers

Jules

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23780 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it release tannins with age?

Jules

joesbirds@... wrote:
Do you have drift wood in the tank.

************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23781 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
No, I don't think so. The only way I can even think of this being possible
is if water parameters have changed drastically, ie gone from very alkaline
to very acidic...not sure even then??? Sorry, ya got me!

Carmen-----
Original Message -----

From: Julie Roughley
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water


Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's
been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it
release tannins with age?

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23782 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Noah,

This reply isn't just for you but for any members or new members who may be
reading this thread.

Most people in these groups communicate via email, not via the website. If
you are doing your reading/posting from the website, you may be able to see
all of the previous posts if you sorted the page that way, but your new post
or reply may not have any of the previous posts unless you copy/paste them
into your new reply.

I always keep an entire thread active in my posts/replies so someone reading
it for the first time will be able to read back over the previous
posts/replies so they can make an informed reply if needed.

I thought I had all of the thread since it was your original post and
Steve's reply and there was nothing else. Sorry for the confusion.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 5:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)

It's just that when I am reading a post, I can see every single post
associated with it. I assumed that was the case for you also; my bad.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> That's why it's important to leave all the previous messages/posts
in your
> reply so people will be able to see what has been discussed
already. I had
> your post at the bottom of my reply but when you just replied to my
post,
> you snipped/edited the rest of the thread out so nobody can see
what was
> posted previously. There was NOTHING in YOUR post that I replied
to that
> said anything about a dojo/weather loach or any pictures. All I
saw was
> your answer to Steve but nothing in your answer even implied that
you also
> had a dojo loach.
>
> Here's a couple of good profiles on them so you can learn more
about them:
>
> http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-
> <http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis->
anguillicaudatu
> s
>
> http://www.aquatic-
hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html
>
> Following this paragraph is your post which I replied to. Steve
certainly
> did refer to his loach as a dojo loach but all your subject title
and post
> talks about is "My new loach!" so there is no way I am going to
infer that
> you had a dojo loach also. It would be like me saying "My dog
won't eat
> bones" but then someone replies that "their labrador retriever loves
> bones"... that doesn't mean I have a lab. Sorry you got offended!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
> settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my
fish so
> far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do
see that
> I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin
layer, but
> he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his sensetive
little
> barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine
and will be
> perfect for him to root around in.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
> they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood
worms
> and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
pretty much
> ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out
before a
> good storm. lol
> >
> > -Steve
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:05 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
loaches (how
> did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this
> thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach
aka
> Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon
tank.
> Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new,
and I will
> make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the
meantime, I
> will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for
finding
> him an excellent home.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> species of
> > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
> link to
> > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
> get
> > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
have
> issues
> > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
> tank do
> > you have again?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23783 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Wow. didn't know loaches could get such a heated discussion. In fairness Lenny, I did follow the three links where she does refer to it as a European Dojo Loach.

All she did was post three links and ask if they eat snails. don't see why the kinda-heated followup posts. Ah well. Maybe you're in california like me suffering under all this humidity and heat (miserable out here!)

Ah well. Like I said before, my dojo ignores snails. Didnt get him for snail control. I'll admit, he was an impulse buy. I loved the way he looked nad he's been a great fish. Mine hangs out in the hollow log with my pleco. very peaceful unless there is a good storm coming, at which he goes nuts. Be warned that they are jumpers (guess I'm luck that mine has never left the tank) and mine has kicked up quite a bit of gunk when he decided that the graval needed his attention. lol

Hopefully the weather will cool down soon. Hope yall are doing well on your end of the wire.

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:05 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!


Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO loaches
(how did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a
Dojo Loach aka Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I
have a 10 gallon tank. Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But
I told you I am new, and I will make mistakes. I am experiencing
this hobby as it comes. In the meantime, I will NOT let this fish
suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for finding him an excellent
home.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
species of
> loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
link to
> it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
get
> really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may have
issues
> with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
tank do
> you have again?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23784 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
No. Most tannins are released in the first few weeks or months. Could the
wood finally be rotting? How long have you had it in the tank? Give your
water the smell test. Does it smell good or rotten? I have two pieces that
are three years old but another piece started rotting after two years and
had to be trashed.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 7:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's
been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it
release tannins with age?

Jules

joesbirds@... <mailto:joesbirds%40aol.com> wrote:
Do you have drift wood in the tank.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23785 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
What were your water parameters (pH, temp, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
hardness) before you started having the orange water and what are they now.
If you have something rotting, it would likely change your parameters
dramatically.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eskielists@...
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

No, I don't think so. The only way I can even think of this being possible
is if water parameters have changed drastically, ie gone from very alkaline
to very acidic...not sure even then??? Sorry, ya got me!

Carmen-----
Original Message -----

From: Julie Roughley
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's
been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it
release tannins with age?

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23786 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
I personally don't like the Yahoo Groups photo albums because I use several
Yahoo ID's for various reasons/groups. To view a pic, I would have to click
the link, sign out of my regular ID, sign back in with my ID for this group
and then click the link again to view the pic. I use Webshots and other
free photo hosting sources that don't require people to sign in to view a
pic. Besides, you can't count on your pictures staying hosted in the Groups
photo album as it will eventually fill up and pictures will have to be
delete by one of the mods to make room for new pics. It's best to use one
of the many free photo hosting services out there and keep your photos where
you have control of them.

If the pictures were labeled Dojo Loach as you say, then it's just a matter
of looking at the profiles which will show Dojo's don't generally eat
snails.. do they? There's always an exception to the rules though. Fish
don't read the same books or profiles that we do.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dragon Hunter
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!

Wow. didn't know loaches could get such a heated discussion. In fairness
Lenny, I did follow the three links where she does refer to it as a European
Dojo Loach.

All she did was post three links and ask if they eat snails. don't see why
the kinda-heated followup posts. Ah well. Maybe you're in california like me
suffering under all this humidity and heat (miserable out here!)

Ah well. Like I said before, my dojo ignores snails. Didnt get him for snail
control. I'll admit, he was an impulse buy. I loved the way he looked nad
he's been a great fish. Mine hangs out in the hollow log with my pleco. very
peaceful unless there is a good storm coming, at which he goes nuts. Be
warned that they are jumpers (guess I'm luck that mine has never left the
tank) and mine has kicked up quite a bit of gunk when he decided that the
graval needed his attention. lol

Hopefully the weather will cool down soon. Hope yall are doing well on your
end of the wire.

-Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:05 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!

Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO loaches (how
did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post for this
thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach aka
Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon tank.
Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new, and I will
make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the meantime, I
will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for finding
him an excellent home.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
species of
> loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
link to
> it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
get
> really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may have
issues
> with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
tank do
> you have again?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23787 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: "Netiquette WAS: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
Lenny,

Just tagging into your reply to amplify a bit.

To me web mail = waste of time. Takes too long. One list I used to
belong to went entirely to a web forum format and lost me as a member. I
simply do not have the time to seek it out each day and wait for pages
to load. No way to get mail sent to one of my e-mail accounts. I come
home in the evening and fire up my e-mail reader, and shortly I am ready
to go. I can get through the approximately 200 e-mails that end up in my
box each weekday in a few hours, including replies.

I save very few mails from this list, and some other lists I belong to.
Continuity is important in an e-mail thread. One does need a method to
refer back to previous posts when replying to one in a thread. The
maintaining of previous messages in a reply is a long established
internet tradition and part of what is known as 'Netiquette. There are
two methods used when replying. One may keep the message in its
entirety, or just speak to certain parts of the message by quoting
potions of the message. Most long established lists prefer the former.

There are also two schools regarding the reply. The vast majority prefer
the reply be placed at the top, while a significant minority hold that
the reply should be at the bottom. I am of the former school, since it
allows one to read the reply, and refer to the message(s) that appeared
before, if needed rather than having to slog through the thread to get
to the reply.

I am aware the those who chose to get digests of the emails for the day
complain about this, but I have always been unclear about the usefulness
of a digest as it is presented today. At one time it was useful in that
one could get just the subjects, and then chose which messages to
receive or read at online. Back in the day (I've been doing this e-mail
thing since about 1979) most mail readers would present you with a list
of headers that included the from, and subject lines as well as a time
stamp, from which one could chose which to download. Today, I get all
the messages and use the delete key to remove those I do not wish to
read.

So, the short and sweet of this is:

1. Keep as much of the previous message(s) with your reply as is
possible so that others coming into the thread can follow what is being
discussed, and not repeat advice already given.

2. When the reply takes a tangent to the original posts, please create a
subject to reflect the new course of the tangent from the original
thread.

3. While we all like to be thanked, there is no real need to add a
message, or as I have seen in some cased, multiple messages of thanks to
those involved in the thread. The thanks is presumed. (And, you'll
always leave someone out when you do multiple thanks.)

4. Those of you who revcieve digests might want to reconsider and opt
for individual e-mails instead.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 10:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)

Noah,

This reply isn't just for you but for any members or new members who may
be
reading this thread.

Most people in these groups communicate via email, not via the website.
If
you are doing your reading/posting from the website, you may be able to
see
all of the previous posts if you sorted the page that way, but your new
post
or reply may not have any of the previous posts unless you copy/paste
them
into your new reply.

I always keep an entire thread active in my posts/replies so someone
reading
it for the first time will be able to read back over the previous
posts/replies so they can make an informed reply if needed.

I thought I had all of the thread since it was your original post and
Steve's reply and there was nothing else. Sorry for the confusion.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 5:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)

It's just that when I am reading a post, I can see every single post
associated with it. I assumed that was the case for you also; my bad.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> That's why it's important to leave all the previous messages/posts
in your
> reply so people will be able to see what has been discussed
already. I had
> your post at the bottom of my reply but when you just replied to my
post,
> you snipped/edited the rest of the thread out so nobody can see
what was
> posted previously. There was NOTHING in YOUR post that I replied
to that
> said anything about a dojo/weather loach or any pictures. All I
saw was
> your answer to Steve but nothing in your answer even implied that
you also
> had a dojo loach.
>
> Here's a couple of good profiles on them so you can learn more
about them:
>
> http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-
> <http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis->
anguillicaudatu
> s
>
> http://www.aquatic-
hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html
>
> Following this paragraph is your post which I replied to. Steve
certainly
> did refer to his loach as a dojo loach but all your subject title
and post
> talks about is "My new loach!" so there is no way I am going to
infer that
> you had a dojo loach also. It would be like me saying "My dog
won't eat
> bones" but then someone replies that "their labrador retriever loves
> bones"... that doesn't mean I have a lab. Sorry you got offended!
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is still
> settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my
fish so
> far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I do
see that
> I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin
layer, but
> he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his sensetive
little
> barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine
and will be
> perfect for him to root around in.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even if
> they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes blood
worms
> and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
pretty much
> ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out
before a
> good storm. lol
> >
> > -Steve
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:05 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
loaches (how
> did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this
> thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach
aka
> Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon
tank.
> Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new,
and I will
> make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the
meantime, I
> will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for
finding
> him an excellent home.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> species of
> > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
> link to
> > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
> get
> > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
have
> issues
> > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
> tank do
> > you have again?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23788 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
I also apologize for getting so irate about it. Er, I am in
California; maybe the heat and humidity are getting to me. Obviously
many people read new posts in e-mail. Not sure why it didn't occur to
me.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> This reply isn't just for you but for any members or new members
who may be
> reading this thread.
>
> Most people in these groups communicate via email, not via the
website. If
> you are doing your reading/posting from the website, you may be
able to see
> all of the previous posts if you sorted the page that way, but your
new post
> or reply may not have any of the previous posts unless you
copy/paste them
> into your new reply.
>
> I always keep an entire thread active in my posts/replies so
someone reading
> it for the first time will be able to read back over the previous
> posts/replies so they can make an informed reply if needed.
>
> I thought I had all of the thread since it was your original post
and
> Steve's reply and there was nothing else. Sorry for the confusion.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 5:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new dojo loach! (was: My new loach!)
>
> It's just that when I am reading a post, I can see every single post
> associated with it. I assumed that was the case for you also; my
bad.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > That's why it's important to leave all the previous messages/posts
> in your
> > reply so people will be able to see what has been discussed
> already. I had
> > your post at the bottom of my reply but when you just replied to
my
> post,
> > you snipped/edited the rest of the thread out so nobody can see
> what was
> > posted previously. There was NOTHING in YOUR post that I replied
> to that
> > said anything about a dojo/weather loach or any pictures. All I
> saw was
> > your answer to Steve but nothing in your answer even implied that
> you also
> > had a dojo loach.
> >
> > Here's a couple of good profiles on them so you can learn more
> about them:
> >
> > http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-
> > <http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis->
> anguillicaudatu
> > s
> >
> > http://www.aquatic-
> hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html
> >
> > Following this paragraph is your post which I replied to. Steve
> certainly
> > did refer to his loach as a dojo loach but all your subject title
> and post
> > talks about is "My new loach!" so there is no way I am going to
> infer that
> > you had a dojo loach also. It would be like me saying "My dog
> won't eat
> > bones" but then someone replies that "their labrador retriever
loves
> > bones"... that doesn't mean I have a lab. Sorry you got offended!
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:54 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
> >
> > Yeah, I have watched him ignore quite a few snails, lol. He is
still
> > settling in (although he has acclimated the fastest out of all my
> fish so
> > far) so I am not sure what his eating preferences will be yet. I
do
> see that
> > I have to get the layer of gravel off the top; it's just a thin
> layer, but
> > he can't move it very well. I am afraid he is hurting his
sensetive
> little
> > barbels. The plant substrate that is underneath is soft and fine
> and will be
> > perfect for him to root around in.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Dragon Hunter" <dragon.hunter@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Welp, if its like my dojo loach, it will ignore the snails even
if
> > they are sliding right in front of their face. lol Mine likes
blood
> worms
> > and eats the shrimp tabs I put in. occasionally eats flake, but
> pretty much
> > ignores that too. Mine does live up to its name and will freak out
> before a
> > good storm. lol
> > >
> > > -Steve
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 11:05 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
> >
> > Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
> loaches (how
> > did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
> for this
> > thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo
Loach
> aka
> > Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10
gallon
> tank.
> > Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new,
> and I will
> > make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the
> meantime, I
> > will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets
for
> finding
> > him an excellent home.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Noah,
> > >
> > > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> > species of
> > > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
> > link to
> > > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches
that
> > get
> > > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
> have
> > issues
> > > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What
size
> > tank do
> > > you have again?
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date:
9/2/2007
> 4:32 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23789 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
For the record, Steve, I'm a guy. :D

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Dragon Hunter"
<dragon.hunter@...> wrote:
>
> Wow. didn't know loaches could get such a heated discussion. In
fairness Lenny, I did follow the three links where she does refer to
it as a European Dojo Loach.
>
> All she did was post three links and ask if they eat snails. don't
see why the kinda-heated followup posts. Ah well. Maybe you're in
california like me suffering under all this humidity and heat
(miserable out here!)
>
> Ah well. Like I said before, my dojo ignores snails. Didnt get
him for snail control. I'll admit, he was an impulse buy. I loved
the way he looked nad he's been a great fish. Mine hangs out in the
hollow log with my pleco. very peaceful unless there is a good storm
coming, at which he goes nuts. Be warned that they are jumpers
(guess I'm luck that mine has never left the tank) and mine has
kicked up quite a bit of gunk when he decided that the graval needed
his attention. lol
>
> Hopefully the weather will cool down soon. Hope yall are doing
well on your end of the wire.
>
> -Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Noah Burge
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:05 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
>
> Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
loaches
> (how did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST
post
> for this thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a
> Dojo Loach aka Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I
> have a 10 gallon tank. Yes, this loach will get too big for it.
But
> I told you I am new, and I will make mistakes. I am experiencing
> this hobby as it comes. In the meantime, I will NOT let this fish
> suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for finding him an
excellent
> home.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> species of
> > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us
the
> link to
> > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches
that
> get
> > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
have
> issues
> > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What
size
> tank do
> > you have again?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23790 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/3/2007
Subject: Re: My new loach!
Apparently this loach doesn't read, either. I am pleased to say that
I saw with my own eyes my Dojo Loach eating snails. Only the ones big
enough to fit in his mouth, of course, but he was really going to
town on them! I think he will keep them in considerable check until I
can remove the bigger ones by hand.

In a side note, I have another question. I asked my local aquarium
shop about a Clown loach (I know, many would say I don't have room
for one) but the shop owner said that Clown loaches that eat snails
have a tendency to grow more accuostmed to carnivorous behavior and
could attack my other, peaceful fish. Is this true?


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I personally don't like the Yahoo Groups photo albums because I use
several
> Yahoo ID's for various reasons/groups. To view a pic, I would have
to click
> the link, sign out of my regular ID, sign back in with my ID for
this group
> and then click the link again to view the pic. I use Webshots and
other
> free photo hosting sources that don't require people to sign in to
view a
> pic. Besides, you can't count on your pictures staying hosted in
the Groups
> photo album as it will eventually fill up and pictures will have to
be
> delete by one of the mods to make room for new pics. It's best to
use one
> of the many free photo hosting services out there and keep your
photos where
> you have control of them.
>
> If the pictures were labeled Dojo Loach as you say, then it's just
a matter
> of looking at the profiles which will show Dojo's don't generally
eat
> snails.. do they? There's always an exception to the rules
though. Fish
> don't read the same books or profiles that we do.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Dragon Hunter
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Wow. didn't know loaches could get such a heated discussion. In
fairness
> Lenny, I did follow the three links where she does refer to it as a
European
> Dojo Loach.
>
> All she did was post three links and ask if they eat snails. don't
see why
> the kinda-heated followup posts. Ah well. Maybe you're in
california like me
> suffering under all this humidity and heat (miserable out here!)
>
> Ah well. Like I said before, my dojo ignores snails. Didnt get him
for snail
> control. I'll admit, he was an impulse buy. I loved the way he
looked nad
> he's been a great fish. Mine hangs out in the hollow log with my
pleco. very
> peaceful unless there is a good storm coming, at which he goes
nuts. Be
> warned that they are jumpers (guess I'm luck that mine has never
left the
> tank) and mine has kicked up quite a bit of gunk when he decided
that the
> graval needed his attention. lol
>
> Hopefully the weather will cool down soon. Hope yall are doing well
on your
> end of the wire.
>
> -Steve
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Noah Burge
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 9:05 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: My new loach!
>
> Lenny, besides the fact that Steve and I were dicussing DOJO
loaches (how
> did he know?) I DID post pics of this loach. The very FIRST post
for this
> thread. But for those who are too "busy" to look, it's a Dojo Loach
aka
> Weatherfish. the European type that gets larger. I have a 10 gallon
tank.
> Yes, this loach will get too big for it. But I told you I am new,
and I will
> make mistakes. I am experiencing this hobby as it comes. In the
meantime, I
> will NOT let this fish suffer and die. I have plenty of outlets for
finding
> him an excellent home.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Noah,
> >
> > You never did say what kind of loach. There are hundreds of
> species of
> > loaches. If you don't know what kind, post a pic and give us the
> link to
> > it. Hopefully you didn't end up with one of the many loaches that
> get
> > really big or need to be in schools (most do!) as then you may
have
> issues
> > with only a single loach in a possibly undersized tank. What size
> tank do
> > you have again?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date:
9/2/2007
> 4:32 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23791 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: mollie with popeye
I have a white sailfin mollie with popeye. Is there a way to tell if
it is from an injury or from something bacterial? Only one eye is
affected and the base of the eye has what looks like blood spots. I
have her in a seperate tank with melafix. No other tank mates are
affected. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23792 From: barbie4527 Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Scarlet leg hermits
Hello, I added a scarlet leg hermit crab to my tank a few weeks ago.
For deco, I have some seashells in the tank. This crab now has one on
his back. He crawls around with it on top of him. I dont know if he
is stuck in it or what. Thanks, Barb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23793 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: mollie with popeye
Popeye is usually caused by an internal bacterial issue which manifests
itself by causing the swelling behind the eye(s). It's usually not
contagious since the popeye is a visible symptom of the bacterial infection
but not the actual bacterial issue.

I've used Melafix with success for popeye in the past. If you have access
to medicated antibacterial food, that would be good also since it would not
harm your biological filtration. Did you move some of the filter media from
your regular tank to the hospital tank so the sick fish won't have to go
through cycling issues in the H-tank.

You may have to do the two weeks of treatment for it to fully heal up and if
it doesn't start looking better after week one, you may want to add Pimafix
to the mix. Using Melafix and Pimafix as a cocktail increases the
antibacterial effect of both of them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 6:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] mollie with popeye

I have a white sailfin mollie with popeye. Is there a way to tell if it is
from an injury or from something bacterial? Only one eye is affected and the
base of the eye has what looks like blood spots. I have her in a seperate
tank with melafix. No other tank mates are affected. Thanks

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.3/986 - Release Date: 9/3/2007
9:31 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23794 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet leg hermits
Most species of hermit crab will continue to change the shell it
carries around throughout it's lifetime. Did it have a shell when you
put it in the tank? Most likely the old shell was too small or your
crab just liked something better about the new shell. In any case, this
is what hermit crabs do.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "barbie4527" <Birdlady746@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello, I added a scarlet leg hermit crab to my tank a few weeks ago.
> For deco, I have some seashells in the tank. This crab now has one
on
> his back. He crawls around with it on top of him. I dont know if he
> is stuck in it or what. Thanks, Barb
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23795 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
Alas a few were dead, though I did see a few molted shells as well so I probably have a few hiding. The tank is densely planted and the wood is full of holes which upon watching a for a while I saw shrimp climbing in and out of. I tend to sometimes be a paranoid alarmist if you haven't already noticed from my emails.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Are you sure they are dead or is it just the molted shell? Many cherry
shrimp (and other species) are prone to molting after they get into a new
home. After they molt, they do not have the protection of a hard shell so
they go into hiding for a few days. If you have fish that like fresh
shrimp, then they may be eating the shrimp when they are in this vulnerable
stage. Here's a DIY Shrimp Cave you can put on the bottom of your tank to
provide them a safe haven when they molt. It's about 1/2 way down on the
page.
http://www.aquariumfish.net/catalog_pages/misc_critters/shrimp_ghost.htm I
don't usually recommend that site as a general source as it gives a lot of
bad information on stocking, etc., but it does have the DIY Shrimp Cave
article.

If your shrimp are actually dying, then you have something wrong with your
water... either copper or medicine or other chemicals that are killing the
shrimp. I feed mine a small piece of algae wafer and the algae wafer (used
for feeding pleco's) are hard so it takes a while for it to soften/dissolve
but while it's on the bottom, I can see my dozens (or maybe a hundred) of
shrimp jockeying for position to get their meal. I honestly can't say that
I've seen any of my cherry shrimp actually die but I'm sure some of them
have. I've noticed planaria crawling around on occasion so I'm sure they
are eating the dead shrimp when it happens.

I use API's tap water conditioner as the ONLY additive to my cherry shrimp
tank and do weekly PWC's to keep a constant influx of my moderately hard
water so the shrimp have lots of calcium, etc. for good shell growth. It's
also good to feed them foods that are high in calcium, especially if you do
not have harder water. Read the ingredients and vitamin info on your fish
foods. Usually if they have fish meal, which most have, that means there is
usually a high calcium content since fish meal is ground up fish (including
the bones) so there is a lot of calcium in fish meal.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.

Hi Rei,
They came from a LFS. I wouldn't think that a guppy would eat them but I
honestly don't know much about Guppy diets and I'm still learning about the
shrimp. There is quite a bit of info about them online and places to order
them as well. I covered my filter intakes with filter media bags, per
Lenny's suggestion, so you could do that if you're worried about them being
sucked in.
Mine are actually not doing so well. I went back and bought 11 more after
the first six and I have found several dead ones since. I've only been able
to find 4 of them alive today, granted they do hide in the wood and plants.
Everything I've read says they are really versatile, as far as water
parameters and temperatures, but I wonder if there is anyone on the list who
would mind chatting with me about them? Lenny?
Thanks!
Kate

Rei - Raymond Tremor >
wrote:
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes to
photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686

jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe

jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44

jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68

Take care,
Kate


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0/980 - Release Date: 8/30/2007
6:05 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23796 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Lol. Point well taken. Of course I watch everything on the tests closely, have a densely planted aquarium and very few fish but I hadn't thought about the things we can not test for! Unfortunately my little Rasboras are eternally inquisitive about the menacing tube stealing their precious water and often swim right up causing me to catch them in the bucket. I can't just stick the tube down into the gravel as the eco complete goes right up with the water. I'm sure there is an easy "duh" type solution to this. Anyone care to school me on it? And sorry for lagging. School has been pretty hardcore this semester.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Kate Hardy asked:

"There was a comment a while back about some folks not ever doing water
changes, just topping off."

GoldLenny's reply:

I wonder if those same people take showers/baths or just top off their
deodorant? I'd sure hate to be stuck in a small room with them. LOL

There are SO MANY other things happening with the biology, chemistry and
overall ecology of a fish tank that we cannot test for. We only test for
the basic and rudimentary things that are easy to test for. In nature, God
provides constant fresh water for most bodies of water via rain, streams,
tides, etc. We need to mimic that same process by doing PWC's.

People who never do PWC's and just top off are just plain lazy and shouldn't
be keeping fish or any other pet. I wonder if they ever wash their other
pets dishes or just top off the food and water? I wonder if they clean
their babies bottoms during a diaper change or just put on a new diaper?

Now, there are certain tank set-ups like the Walstad Planted Aquarium that
claims to not need regular PWC's but that is the exception, not the rule.
It is a heavily planted tank with a light fish bioload and the substrate
provides a constant source of macro and trace elements to the plants and
fish.

Doing a PWC should not cause any stress to your fish once they get use to
it. Heck, my goldfish follow the siphon tube around hoping it will stir up
some uneaten morsel that they somehow missed while foraging in the gravel.
Now, my Pleco was a bit skittish about the siphon tube but he would just
swim to the other end of the tank. I don't swing my siphon tube around
chasing the fish. I start in one corner, shove the tube down into the
gravel until it's sucking mostly clear water, then move it over one tube
width and do this until I am done. The fish who don't like the tube will
move away while others will follow it around hoping for a morsel.

NOT doing PWC's will definitely cause stress to your fish from a potential
pH crash to funky dirty water, to various health issues, etc., etc.

There's a saying... "Dilution is the solution to pollution" and it holds
true with our fish tanks as well. Doing regular PWC's constantly dilutes
the pollution that would build up in a closed ecology system such as most
aquariums.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some folks
not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water parameters
look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I always worry
about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly sucking up shrimp,
especially the babies.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily toxic
depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that explains
ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html


Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you are
using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is non-toxic
once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php


Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia but
when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia level of
the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I refill the
tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.0/980 - Release Date: 8/30/2007
6:05 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23797 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Levels
Ps. Thank you to everyone who responded on this by the way. I really appreciate all the input!

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Kate Hardy asked:

"There was a comment a while back about some folks not ever doing water
changes, just topping off."

GoldLenny's reply:

I wonder if those same people take showers/baths or just top off their
deodorant? I'd sure hate to be stuck in a small room with them. LOL

There are SO MANY other things happening with the biology, chemistry and
overall ecology of a fish tank that we cannot test for. We only test for
the basic and rudimentary things that are easy to test for. In nature, God
provides constant fresh water for most bodies of water via rain, streams,
tides, etc. We need to mimic that same process by doing PWC's.

People who never do PWC's and just top off are just plain lazy and shouldn't
be keeping fish or any other pet. I wonder if they ever wash their other
pets dishes or just top off the food and water? I wonder if they clean
their babies bottoms during a diaper change or just put on a new diaper?

Now, there are certain tank set-ups like the Walstad Planted Aquarium that
claims to not need regular PWC's but that is the exception, not the rule.
It is a heavily planted tank with a light fish bioload and the substrate
provides a constant source of macro and trace elements to the plants and
fish.

Doing a PWC should not cause any stress to your fish once they get use to
it. Heck, my goldfish follow the siphon tube around hoping it will stir up
some uneaten morsel that they somehow missed while foraging in the gravel.
Now, my Pleco was a bit skittish about the siphon tube but he would just
swim to the other end of the tank. I don't swing my siphon tube around
chasing the fish. I start in one corner, shove the tube down into the
gravel until it's sucking mostly clear water, then move it over one tube
width and do this until I am done. The fish who don't like the tube will
move away while others will follow it around hoping for a morsel.

NOT doing PWC's will definitely cause stress to your fish from a potential
pH crash to funky dirty water, to various health issues, etc., etc.

There's a saying... "Dilution is the solution to pollution" and it holds
true with our fish tanks as well. Doing regular PWC's constantly dilutes
the pollution that would build up in a closed ecology system such as most
aquariums.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kate hardy
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 1:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Quick question about PWCs. There was a comment a while back about some folks
not ever doing water changes, just topping off. If your water parameters
look good is it actually necessary to do a PWC once a week? I always worry
about the stress it puts on the fish and now possibly sucking up shrimp,
especially the babies.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
What brand of tap water conditioner are you using? I don't normally
recommend additional chemicals but in your case, it would be better for your
fish if you started using a product from SeaChem called Prime which will
treat your tap water for chlorine/chloramine, heavy metals and also
neutralize the residual ammonia that is left over from your tap water after
your current tap water conditioner breaks the chloramine bond (chlorine &
ammonia).

What is the pH and temperature of your tank? 0.5ppm is not necessarily toxic
depending on your pH and water temperature. Here's a link that explains
ammonia toxicity.
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html


Oops.. as I read your post further, I see you are using Prime. Since you are
using it, although you may be getting an ammonia reading, it is non-toxic
once treated with Prime, presuming the Prime is working properly.
Check your expiration dates on the Prime and on the API Master Test Kit.
Here's a link on how to tell the manufacture date of API water test
products. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php


Your next "worry stage" is going to be when the nitrifying bacteria start
growing enough to begin converting the ammonia to nitrite. Nitrite is far
more toxic to fish but you can treat your entire tank with a pinch of salt
(mixed in a cup of water first) which will at least protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disease). You will still have to do frequent
PWC's to keep the nitrite levels around 0.5ppm.

Do not add any more fish until you have completed the nitrogen cycle... when
you have 0.0ppm for ammonia and nitrite. Then you will start to show a
nitrate reading but nitrates aren't nearly as dangerous compared to the
other two phases of the nitrogen cycle. You will manage your nitrate levels
by doing regular PWC's whenever the nitrates get to 40ppm or more
frequently.

Once your tank is fully cycled, you will have sufficient numbers of
nitrifying bacteria growing in your filter media and other surface areas of
your tank that the small amounts of ammonia from your tap will be
immediately converted to nitrates. My tap reads around 0.5ppm of ammonia but
when I am doing a 25% PWC, that only temporarily raises the ammonia level of
the tank to 0.125ppm but since the filters are running while I refill the
tank, this small amount of ammonia is immediately converted.

Also go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning which has very important information for new fish keepers. I know
the filter companies tell you to change the filter every few weeks but you
definitely do NOT want to do this while cycling as you will be throwing away
your good nitrifying bacteria growing in the filter media.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 6:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Levels

Hi Everyone,

I have a question that goes back to a message I posted recently about the
ammonia level in my aquarium. A bit of background: I bought a starter
aquarium kit that I set up about three weeks ago. It is a 20 gallon tank
that I am using for tropical freshwater fish. I conditioned the water for
about a week, per the instructions that came with the kit. After a week
passed, I took a sample of the water to my local pet store to have it
tested. The salesman informed me that the water was habitable for fish, so I
purchased three Danios, which are all still alive to date. I also purchased
a water test kit so that I could start testing the water levels on my own.
The problem I'm having is that the ammonia level is too high for the fish. I
have an API liquid ammonia test kit that I have been using. Each time I test
the water, the reading is around 0.50 ppm (mg/L), which indicates that the
water is at a stress level for the fish. I have performed several partial
water changes using a water conditioner called Prime. Despite almost daily
water changes, I cannot get the ammonia level close to 0 ppm, which is
supposed to be the most suitable ammonia level for the fish. I tested the
tap water in my apartment and discovered that the ammonia level is very
high. I went back to the pet shop to ask someone what I should do, and they
suggested I purchase several gallons of distilled water, which would
eliminate the issue with the ammonia. Does this sound like a sound piece of
advice for someone in my situation? It doesn't seem financially feasible for
me to have to purchase several gallons of distilled water every time I need
to perform a partial water change.
Is there some other method that I might try to bring down the ammonia level
to a level that is healthy for the fish? Given the high ammonia level in my
tap water, is it a bad idea for me to even be keeping fish in the first
place? Sorry about all the questions, but I obviously need help. Thanks!

- Jim


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6:05 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23798 From: kate hardy Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.
There's a few online. Try googling Cherry Shrimp.

Rei - Raymond Tremor <lovemoako@...> wrote: Do you have a link to get to the seller or something?

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/31/2007 8:51:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cherry Shrimp/ Questions about C.S.

Hi Rei,
They came from a LFS. I wouldn't think that a guppy would eat them but I
honestly don't know much about Guppy diets and I'm still learning about the
shrimp. There is quite a bit of info about them online and places to order
them as well. I covered my filter intakes with filter media bags, per Lenny
s suggestion, so you could do that if you're worried about them being sucked
in.
Mine are actually not doing so well. I went back and bought 11 more after
the first six and I have found several dead ones since. I've only been able
to find 4 of them alive today, granted they do hide in the wood and plants.
Everything I've read says they are really versatile, as far as water
parameters and temperatures, but I wonder if there is anyone on the list who
would mind chatting with me about them? Lenny?
Thanks!
Kate

Rei - Raymond Tremor <lovemoako@...> wrote:
Kate, where did you get the cherry shrimp? And would guppy eat
them? I also
have a filter and it might suck them. I haven't seen any here in Hawaii. I
saw red shrimps but it is for salt water. I also had feeder shrimps before.
I had about 30 cause they sell them for 15 for $1 and they had babies but
their numbers kept dwindling until nothing was left. All I have on the tank
are guppies, otocinclus, albino long fin Cory and some tetras.

-------Original Message-------

From: kate hardy
Date: 8/30/2007 9:30:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New pictures/Cherry Shrimp

Hey all,
I managed to get a Cherry Shrimp pic although I'm terrible when it comes
to photography. I'm sure there are tricks I don't know. There's a couple of
updated shots of the tank too. If for some reason the link doesn't work you
can see them in the "Kate's Tank" album.

The tank as of today

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/6686
jpg?grIS11GBw8XJ.Cit

Otocinclus

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/97fe
jpg?grIS11GBPVcYPqFL

Cherry Shrimp

http://f9g.yahoofs.com/groups/g_hr_8495157/1d5a/__hr_/4b44
jpg?grIS11GBdrzB9w68


Take care,
Kate


---------------------------------
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Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23799 From: gorsford Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Shrimp babies
my friends bought some shrimps and put in my aquarium. one was
pregnant and it released babies today. the shrimps should be mono
shrimps. they are clear and they eat algae.
The babies are small about 1.5 mm. floating around and hopping once a
while.


I want to ask:
how long does it take to get mature?
I have mollies in the tank should i separate them? there are a lot
of plant providing shelter tho
what do they eat? how do i take care of the babies?


Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23800 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp babies
Alex,

I have Red Cherry shrimp in their own heavily planted tank. I added
Peppered Corydora Catfish eggs which have since hatched. I feed them all a
variety of algae wafers, shrimp pellets, and baby brine shrimp. The shrimp
continue to lay eggs and my baby cory's are thriving. So far so good. I
have the intake to my filter covered with panty hose so the tiny shrimp
don't get sucked up. I would imagine your mollys will eat any shrimp they
can fit in their mouth.

Hope this helps.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23801 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Shrimp babies
alex do you mean amano shrimp. The young are planktonic and raised in at
least brackish to salt water conditions.You probably have another type of algea
eating shrimp. The fish could eat the baby shrimp but if you have lots of
hiding places it should be alright.




************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23802 From: barbara thomas Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet leg hermits
Yea, it did have a shell when I got it. .Just wanted to make sure it was doing something normal! Thanks, Barb


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: noahburge2b@...: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 16:51:38 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Scarlet leg hermits




Most species of hermit crab will continue to change the shell it carries around throughout it's lifetime. Did it have a shell when you put it in the tank? Most likely the old shell was too small or your crab just liked something better about the new shell. In any case, this is what hermit crabs do.--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "barbie4527" <Birdlady746@...> wrote:>> Hello, I added a scarlet leg hermit crab to my tank a few weeks ago. > For deco, I have some seashells in the tank. This crab now has one on > his back. He crawls around with it on top of him. I dont know if he > is stuck in it or what. Thanks, Barb>






_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23803 From: poul wehner Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: recomendations
Hi Everyone,
About 7 years ago I had a 55 and 66 gallon aquarium but dropped out of
the hobby. I want to get back into again and would appreciate some
recommendations.
I'm going to buy a 75 gallon and setup a freshwater system and stock it
with some cichlids.
In the past I had used a Magnum Pro 350. It did the job well but I was
wondering how that stacks up to other cannister filters like the eheim
classic or fluval 305.
Related to this- I've had good experiences with the Whisper Diatomagic
filter but it doesn't seem to be manufactured anymore. Does anyone have
any info on current diatom filters?

Last question- Is a UV sterilizer a worthwhile purchase (in addition to
a diatom filter)? If so does anyone have a model they are happy with?

Thanks for any info.
I'm very glad to have found this group.

Best Regards,
Poul
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23804 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
We have Fluval on all of our tanks and we have 7. I LOVE FLUVAL!!
I was afraid they wold be hard to clean etc but they are soo sinple
and do the job. We have all cichlid tanks except for 2 and they are
1) my son's "peaceful" tank and the super poopr tank, goldfish and
plecos and its keeps it SPARKLING!!
Good choice on the cichlids, I love mine!!
Jenn

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, poul wehner <poul.wehner@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
> About 7 years ago I had a 55 and 66 gallon aquarium but dropped
out of
> the hobby. I want to get back into again and would appreciate some
> recommendations.
> I'm going to buy a 75 gallon and setup a freshwater system and
stock it
> with some cichlids.
> In the past I had used a Magnum Pro 350. It did the job well but I
was
> wondering how that stacks up to other cannister filters like the
eheim
> classic or fluval 305.
> Related to this- I've had good experiences with the Whisper
Diatomagic
> filter but it doesn't seem to be manufactured anymore. Does anyone
have
> any info on current diatom filters?
>
> Last question- Is a UV sterilizer a worthwhile purchase (in
addition to
> a diatom filter)? If so does anyone have a model they are happy
with?
>
> Thanks for any info.
> I'm very glad to have found this group.
>
> Best Regards,
> Poul
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23805 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/4/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
Hi Poul,
Welcome back to the hobby!

Yes from what I have seen the Diatomagic is no longer being made.  Vortex still makes Diatom filters but they are not really good for full time use, and are very loud, and hard to prime.

I have experience with the older fluval, the o4 series, 204 and 304 and have been very happy with them.  I believe the new series you mentioned has better clamps for locking that are not as prone to breaking like most of the o4 models.

Most people rave about the Eheim canisters but I have not had a chance to use one yet.

I have not used the UV sterilizer yet, it is sitting in the box waiting for me to hook a power head up to it.

Hopefully you will get some good replies and I might learn a bit about UV sterlizers as well.

Mike


Related to this- I've had good experiences with the Whisper Diatomagic
filter but it doesn't seem to be manufactured anymore. Does anyone have
any info on current diatom filters?



-----Original Message-----
From: poul wehner <poul.wehner@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 4 Sep 2007 5:45 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] recomendations






Hi Everyone,
About 7 years ago I had a 55 and 66 gallon aquarium but dropped out of
the hobby. I want to get back into again and would appreciate some
recommendations.
I'm going to buy a 75 gallon and setup a freshwater system and stock it
with some cichlids.
In the past I had used a Magnum Pro 350. It did the job well but I was
wondering how that stacks up to other cannister filters like the eheim
classic or fluval 305.
Related to this- I've had good experiences with the Whisper Diatomagic
filter but it doesn't seem to be manufactured anymore. Does anyone have
any info on current diatom filters?

Last question- Is a UV sterilizer a worthwhile purchase (in addition to
a diatom filter)? If so does anyone have a model they are happy with?

Thanks for any info.
I'm very glad to have found this group.

Best Regards,
Poul





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23806 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: recomendations
Hi Poul,

Welcome back to the hobby and to this group. I am using Fluvol canisters.
I have three 305's and a 205 and could not be happier. They are simple to
set up and easy to maintain. I don't use UV sterilizers because I have
heavily planted tanks but have not had any problems that would make me want
to get one. Maybe cichlids are a different story.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23807 From: ~Kristy~ Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Classroom Fish
Hi All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?

I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!

I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter. I don't want a heater. I need something fool proof!

Kristy :)


Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23808 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
For that size tank, hardy fish that don't require heating, I'd say go with a school of 6 white cloud minnows. You can try a few ghost shrimp in there as well. In my experience they are pretty hardy fish and in water that's not too warm is when their colors really shine. You may also want to try a few rosy reds instead (usually sold as feeder fish). A betta and danios would require a heater and danios are pretty active so a longer tank may serve them better. Just do not get goldfish for that size tank. It's way too small for even just one little .97 feeder.

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: aliaskris29@...
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 06:34:52 -0400
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish




















Hi All,



Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?



I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!



I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter. I don't want a heater. I need something fool proof!



Kristy :)



Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM






















_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
You need to find out if it's 15L or 15G. If it's 15L, then you should go
with the Betta as it wouldn't be big enough for much else... maybe a Betta
and an Apple Snail. Depending on how cold/hot it gets in your school and
how much the temp changes throughout the course of the day/night, you may
have to get a small heater to keep the water temperature constant. Many
schools have the A/C programmed to turn off at night so it could get too
warm/cold at night. Do you have a filter also? If you don't want to add a
heater, then you need to stick with cool water fish but they won't do well
in a 15L tank since it's too small.

If it's 15G, then your options go up. What are the measurements LxWxD? You
can multiply LxWxD and divide by 231 to get U.S. Gallons. If it's a 15G,
here is a list of stocking suggestions and suitable fish for a 10G,
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml which would also work for the 15G since 15's are usually the same
dimensions as 10's except a little taller. If the link wraps or breaks, go
to my blog (in sig) and under the March 2007 blogs, there is the one for
"Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank Stocking List".

Hopefully you have a 15G and then you can go with a school of zebra danios
or white-cloud mountain minnows which will tolerate the cooler to warmer
temperature swings. And if you want to be adventurous, you could get the
newer genetically enhanced zebra danios called GloFish. They spliced a gene
into the ZD's that make them like day-glo colors. Here's the site for the
inventor of the GloFish. http://www.glofish.com/

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ~Kristy~
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish

Hi All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?

I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!

I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter. I don't want a heater.
I need something fool proof!

Kristy :)

Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give
ourselves. ~ KM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23810 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
What part of the country are you from? Depending on tank size and local laws, you could look at maybe a couple small native minnows as well.
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
From: wilderness_girl_22@...
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 09:27:14 -0600
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish






















For that size tank, hardy fish that don't require heating, I'd say go with a school of 6 white cloud minnows. You can try a few ghost shrimp in there as well. In my experience they are pretty hardy fish and in water that's not too warm is when their colors really shine. You may also want to try a few rosy reds instead (usually sold as feeder fish). A betta and danios would require a heater and danios are pretty active so a longer tank may serve them better. Just do not get goldfish for that size tank. It's way too small for even just one little .97 feeder.



To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

From: aliaskris29@...

Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2007 06:34:52 -0400

Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish



Hi All,



Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?



I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!



I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter. I don't want a heater. I need something fool proof!



Kristy :)



Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM



__________________________________________________________

Discover the new Windows Vista

http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
























_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23811 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Dying Fish Question
I just was looking for some thoughts concerning an issue I have come
across in my many years of owning aquariums:

What do ya'll do if your fish is dying? Very obviously dying - laying
on the gravel gasping for breath, swimming upside down, etc. Do ya'll
just let it die, even when the other fish are picking on it? Or do you
freeze them? I had heard of one person some years ago that used to
remove the fish and physically slam it to kill it but I know that I
could never do that. My ex used to think the kindest way was wrapping
it in a paper towel and putting it in the freezer. I find that hard to
do that too but hate to see them just dying in the tank, especially when
the other fish are constantly looking at they are biting at it.

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23812 From: Emily Tenczar Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Can you get a hold of some kind of fish anesthetic? I luckily know some of
the folks at my school in the fisheries dept. so I've been able to get some
of this to euthanize fish during emergencies like you describe.
I can't remember what it's called.
Emily


On 9/5/07, Paula Brown <browngip@...> wrote:
>
> I just was looking for some thoughts concerning an issue I have come
> across in my many years of owning aquariums:
>
> What do ya'll do if your fish is dying? Very obviously dying - laying
> on the gravel gasping for breath, swimming upside down, etc. Do ya'll
> just let it die, even when the other fish are picking on it? Or do you
> freeze them? I had heard of one person some years ago that used to
> remove the fish and physically slam it to kill it but I know that I
> could never do that. My ex used to think the kindest way was wrapping
> it in a paper towel and putting it in the freezer. I find that hard to
> do that too but hate to see them just dying in the tank, especially when
> the other fish are constantly looking at they are biting at it.
>
> Paula
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23813 From: ~~JFazio~~ Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
jfazio@...
X-Priority: 3
Importance: Normal
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I move sick,dying fish to small quarantine tank. Even though it's pretty evident they're seriously ill, I hope for the best by adding Melafix or whatever med I think may give it a chance. They usually die in peace without being picked apart by other fish.

Jeannie Fazio, from mobile phone jfazio@... :: 207-752-4700 :: http://prioritiesonline.com ::

-----Original Message-----

From: "Paula Brown" <browngip@...>
Subj: [AquaticLife] Dying Fish Question
Date: Wed Sep 5, 2007 3:20 pm
Size: 780 bytes
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>

I just was looking for some thoughts concerning an issue I have come
across in my many years of owning aquariums:

What do ya'll do if your fish is dying? Very obviously dying - laying
on the gravel gasping for breath, swimming upside down, etc. Do ya'll
just let it die, even when the other fish are picking on it? Or do you
freeze them? I had heard of one person some years ago that used to
remove the fish and physically slam it to kill it but I know that I
could never do that. My ex used to think the kindest way was wrapping
it in a paper towel and putting it in the freezer. I find that hard to
do that too but hate to see them just dying in the tank, especially when
the other fish are constantly looking at they are biting at it.

Paula



--- message truncated ---
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23814 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
Paula,

I have had to "put down" fish before and I use Clove Oil. Its used an
an anesthetic to sedate fish but in higher doses they do not wake up.
You can usaully pick it up at a pharmacy (not Walmart).

Pu them in a bowl or small container, mix the clove oil in water and
place the fish in it. Wait several hours to make sure it takes affect.
Fish may look dead at first but it could just be sedated, so leave it
there for several hours.

Hope this helps, sorry about your fish.

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23815 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Dying Fish Question
If you can find the Clove Oil, that will work but I've also taken a large
cup of ice water, added enough ice cubes to make the water very, very cold
and then add the fish. The cold makes the fish immediately numb although
I'm sure some will say they feel the cold pain... but I'm sure they feel
some kind of pain from breathing in clove oil over their gills also. It
usually acts so fast that they go into a semi-coma immediately and then put
the cup in the freezer to finish the job.

I've seen posts of people using a new razor blade and slicing the head off
which is probably the quickest and least painful way but many people can't
do this procedure.

Here's a longer forum threads on the topic and an article about the clove
oil.

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14&highlight=&sid=bfb
c64cd5dd19393a18e21bc0e719783

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-most-humane-way-to-euthanize-a-fish.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 2:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Dying Fish Question

I just was looking for some thoughts concerning an issue I have come across
in my many years of owning aquariums:

What do ya'll do if your fish is dying? Very obviously dying - laying on the
gravel gasping for breath, swimming upside down, etc. Do ya'll just let it
die, even when the other fish are picking on it? Or do you freeze them? I
had heard of one person some years ago that used to remove the fish and
physically slam it to kill it but I know that I could never do that. My ex
used to think the kindest way was wrapping it in a paper towel and putting
it in the freezer. I find that hard to do that too but hate to see them just
dying in the tank, especially when the other fish are constantly looking at
they are biting at it.

Paula


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23816 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Questions about ick
What can you use to treat a tank for ick that does not turn the tank
silicone blue?

No one in the tank looks like they have ick, and no one appears sick,
but they are rubbing against everything.

Any suggestions? They are cichlids.

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
If you can't see the white specks (like salt or sugar) on the fish, then
they likely DO NOT have Ick. Do not start treating for something until you
have a reasonable certainty of what it is. They could have one of many
other parasites or they could be flashing/scratching due to some other
problem in your water.

What are your current and previous comparable test results for ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, pH and any other tests that you routinely run? Have you
had any major problems recently like temperature spikes or crashes? Have
you added new fish or plants recently?

Have you changed any chemicals or additives? What do you use to treat your
water before or while adding it to your tank during PWC's? Has there been a
change in your water supply or the treatments they use... like did they
switch from chlorine to chloramine?

What size tank, what kind of cichlids and how many/big?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

What can you use to treat a tank for ick that does not turn the tank
silicone blue?

No one in the tank looks like they have ick, and no one appears sick, but
they are rubbing against everything.

Any suggestions? They are cichlids.

Jenn

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23818 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
Nothing has changed. Everything tests out normal and this has been a VERY
balanced tank for quite some time. No one new or anything new. They did
this once before and I was told the same thing, so I did not do anything and
then the ick appeared about a week later and then we treated it.

The tank is 150 gallons, with large red empresses and a electric blue ,and
some smaller cichlids, yellow labs and similar size. We have good
filtration and do routine water changes (Sundays). I use Aqua Safe (yellow
bottle) when we do water changes.

I'm just trying to catch it before it starts again and they are doing the
same thing as the last time we had ick.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 3:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

If you can't see the white specks (like salt or sugar) on the fish, then
they likely DO NOT have Ick. Do not start treating for something until you
have a reasonable certainty of what it is. They could have one of many
other parasites or they could be flashing/scratching due to some other
problem in your water.

What are your current and previous comparable test results for ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, pH and any other tests that you routinely run? Have you
had any major problems recently like temperature spikes or crashes? Have
you added new fish or plants recently?

Have you changed any chemicals or additives? What do you use to treat your
water before or while adding it to your tank during PWC's? Has there been a
change in your water supply or the treatments they use... like did they
switch from chlorine to chloramine?

What size tank, what kind of cichlids and how many/big?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

What can you use to treat a tank for ick that does not turn the tank
silicone blue?

No one in the tank looks like they have ick, and no one appears sick, but
they are rubbing against everything.

Any suggestions? They are cichlids.

Jenn

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23819 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
It's a 15 gallon :-)

Carmen


-------------
From: ~Kristy~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish


Hi All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?

I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!

I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23820 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Questions about ick
Ick normally is caused by introducing it with something new into the tank
but there are several theories that it goes into a dormant stage inside of
certain fish (like a Typhoid Mary) and then a certain stressful situation,
like a drastic temperature change or introduction of a new fish or bad
water, etc., would cause the Typhoid Mary fish to release the Ick parasite
which then causes an outbreak to some or all of the other fish. Some other
theories claim that once a fish had Ick, it builds up some kind of chemical
defense in its slime coat but others have said they have had multiple
outbreaks of Ick with the same fish so I'm not sure why Ick just appears out
of nowhere like in your situation.

Here's a good cichlid-forum article about Ich.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php

In answer to your original question, there are many ways to treat Ick that
will not turn your silicone blue. And for hardy fish like your cichlids,
you could use the old tried and true Salt and Heat method outlined on the
site above. In fact, since you aren't sure that you have Ick, I wouldn't
use any meds but I might be willing to do the salt and heat method since
it's less stressful to the fish compared to some of the meds out there.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

Nothing has changed. Everything tests out normal and this has been a VERY
balanced tank for quite some time. No one new or anything new. They did
this once before and I was told the same thing, so I did not do anything and
then the ick appeared about a week later and then we treated it.

The tank is 150 gallons, with large red empresses and a electric blue ,and
some smaller cichlids, yellow labs and similar size. We have good
filtration and do routine water changes (Sundays). I use Aqua Safe (yellow
bottle) when we do water changes.

I'm just trying to catch it before it starts again and they are doing the
same thing as the last time we had ick.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 3:33 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

If you can't see the white specks (like salt or sugar) on the fish, then
they likely DO NOT have Ick. Do not start treating for something until you
have a reasonable certainty of what it is. They could have one of many
other parasites or they could be flashing/scratching due to some other
problem in your water.

What are your current and previous comparable test results for ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, pH and any other tests that you routinely run? Have you
had any major problems recently like temperature spikes or crashes? Have
you added new fish or plants recently?

Have you changed any chemicals or additives? What do you use to treat your
water before or while adding it to your tank during PWC's? Has there been a
change in your water supply or the treatments they use... like did they
switch from chlorine to chloramine?

What size tank, what kind of cichlids and how many/big?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 4:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Questions about ick

What can you use to treat a tank for ick that does not turn the tank
silicone blue?

No one in the tank looks like they have ick, and no one appears sick, but
they are rubbing against everything.

Any suggestions? They are cichlids.

Jenn

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.><((((ş>.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸><((((ş> ¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸<ş((((><¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..<ş((((><ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23821 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
That's good. At least you can have more than just a Betta.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eskielists@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 5:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish

It's a 15 gallon :-)

Carmen

-------------
From: ~Kristy~
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish

Hi All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?

I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said NOOOO!

I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.5/990 - Release Date: 9/4/2007
10:36 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23822 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/5/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
I'd go with Francina's suggestion of white clouds, especially if the
classroom will be a bit on the chilly side. White clouds are really a
temperate water fish and will withstand temperatures to the low 60's F.
If the temperatures are in the low 70's or lower, the fish will look
spectacular. I'd suggest you get 6 or 8 of them for your tank. If you
feel you must have a catfish, I'd probably go with an aneus cory--not
the albino type. I'd also look for regular white clouds, not the fancy
kind. The aneus has interesting habits that should pique the curiosity
of your students, with its trips to the surface to get a bit of air.
Actually, cories are schooling fish and do better in groups, but a
singleton aneus does well on its own.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ~Kristy~
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish

Hi All,

Does anyone have any suggestions for classroom fish?

I wanted a Betta and Zebra Danyos but the kids want a shark. I said
NOOOO!

I have a 15L or Gallon not sure tank, with a filter. I don't want a
heater. I need something fool proof!

Kristy :)


Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift
we give ourselves. ~ KM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23823 From: Jim Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Filter Changes
Hi Everyone,

Forgive me if I am asking a question that was already posted. I have a
20 gallon tropical freshwater fish tank that I've had for almost a
month. As I perform more and more PWCs, I notice that the filter looks
like it is getting a little bit of 'gunk' buildup. Is now the time to
change the filter? Do I just need to wash the filter? I do know that I
should not wash the filter with tap water, but to use the water from
the tank. Thanks.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23824 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
I have an article on my blog (link in sig) on Filter Maintenance And
Cleaning. Look at the links on the right side for Filter Maintenance.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 10:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Changes

Hi Everyone,

Forgive me if I am asking a question that was already posted. I have a 20
gallon tropical freshwater fish tank that I've had for almost a month. As I
perform more and more PWCs, I notice that the filter looks like it is
getting a little bit of 'gunk' buildup. Is now the time to change the
filter? Do I just need to wash the filter? I do know that I should not wash
the filter with tap water, but to use the water from the tank. Thanks.

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23825 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
Thanks, Lenny. I read your blog and found it very
helpful.

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> I have an article on my blog (link in sig) on Filter
> Maintenance And
> Cleaning. Look at the links on the right side for
> Filter Maintenance.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 10:29 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Changes
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> Forgive me if I am asking a question that was
> already posted. I have a 20
> gallon tropical freshwater fish tank that I've had
> for almost a month. As I
> perform more and more PWCs, I notice that the filter
> looks like it is
> getting a little bit of 'gunk' buildup. Is now the
> time to change the
> filter? Do I just need to wash the filter? I do know
> that I should not wash
> the filter with tap water, but to use the water from
> the tank. Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 -
> Release Date: 9/6/2007
> 3:18 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23826 From: quietari Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: mormyrid question
Hey all

I recently saw a dolphin mormyrid at my LFS and absolutely fell in
love with it. I have a brand new 60 gallon tank i think would make a
perfect home for it (it's been cycled, prepped, planted, etc etc).
However I know the mormyrid family can be tricky fish to keep. I have
been searching the net for info, but most of it revolves around the
elephant nose mormyrid, and dolphin mormyrid info is very rare to say
the least. Does anyone have any information? My LFS owner suggests a
higher temp (high 70s, low 80s) and a more brackish water type.
However i would like something a bit more detailed. Since it will be
the centerpiece of my new tank, i would like to know what the demands
are before i get involved.

Thanks in advance,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23827 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: New member with question
I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom
of the tank and he doesnt find them down there. I try to get the
bloodworms to stay on his cave but they all fall off to the bottom. I
was told they arent bottom feeders so how do I get him to eat. I am
afriad i will find him dead in the morning. This is the third day i
have had him.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23828 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Try feeding after lights are off.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23829 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know they get
really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G as juvi's
and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with lots of
references at the bottom for further reading.
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html

Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question

I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am feeding
bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is circling the
outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the tank and he
doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on his cave
but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom feeders so
how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the morning.
This is the third day i have had him.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Melanie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23830 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/7/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Changes
Cleaning the filter depends on a number of variables. Yu have the type
of filter, the filtering media, and the load in your tank to consider.
For a typical filter that hangs on the tank, a quick rinse of the filter
sponges or pads each water change is very helpful, otherwise you can
judge when it needs to be cleaned when the flow back into the tank is
reduced. I will rinse in the water removed from the aquarium.

If the tank has a bubble-up filter, one of those filters that sit in the
corner of the tank and is air driven, the media is normally a floss,
which, when dirty is discarded and replaced.

A sponge filter, one that is in the aquarium and consists of a foam
sponge on an air tube, should be rinsed in used aquarium water at each
water change.

For canister filters, I generally wait until the water flow is
diminished, then take appropriate actions to clean. If floss is used, it
is discarded. If foam is used, it is rinsed. I've not used the cartridge
type, so I have not thought about how I would clean that.

I seldom use carbon in my filtration, but it should be, when used,
changed at each water change and discarded. In bubble-ups and canister
filters, I use a gravel layer, or some other layer for colonization of
the nitrogen reducing bacteria. These layers are rinsed when needed in
used aquarium water.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 11:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Changes

Hi Everyone,

Forgive me if I am asking a question that was already posted. I have a
20 gallon tropical freshwater fish tank that I've had for almost a
month. As I perform more and more PWCs, I notice that the filter looks
like it is getting a little bit of 'gunk' buildup. Is now the time to
change the filter? Do I just need to wash the filter? I do know that I
should not wash the filter with tap water, but to use the water from
the tank. Thanks.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23831 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: desert gobies...
Hi All,

I was looking thru fish supplies on eBay and saw an ad for desert gobies.
I looked them up and thought they were pretty interesting fish. Has anyone
one out there had them? Do you know how big they get? Are they really
as peaceful as they sound. With a mouth that large they could eat at
least half of my fish. I have mostly tetras and mollies. Anyway, I just
wanted to see.

Thanks,
Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23833 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
Bye,
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question

What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know they get
really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G as juvi's
and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with lots of
references at the bottom for further reading.
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html

Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question

I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am feeding
bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is circling the
outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the tank and he
doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on his cave
but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom feeders so
how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the morning.
This is the third day i have had him.
Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks,
Melanie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23834 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Never had them but here's a few profiles/articles about them.

http://www.desertfishes.org/australia/fish/chlaerem.shtml

http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=22773

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Ball_Chlamydogobius_eremius.htm
l

http://watershed3.tripod.com/natives.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlamydogobius

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 6:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] desert gobies...

Hi All,

I was looking thru fish supplies on eBay and saw an ad for desert gobies.
I looked them up and thought they were pretty interesting fish. Has anyone
one out there had them? Do you know how big they get? Are they really as
peaceful as they sound. With a mouth that large they could eat at least half
of my fish. I have mostly tetras and mollies. Anyway, I just wanted to see.

Thanks,
Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23835 From: Veronica Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Hi,
What I know is this. It requires a sandy substrate and live blackworms for food. I had one several years ago and I've been trying to replace it for a year. Mine did fairly well, I hope this helps.
Veronica





He who forgives, ends the quarrel.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23836 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same
problem with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front
of his face when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i
still didnt see him eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster
i use to feed him and swam backwards to get away. I am headed to the
store to see if i can find some kind of plant that the bloodworms can
stick too or something. I just dont know what to do.


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I
have found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on
plants. I have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the
gravel.But yet mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have
seen. I woke up this morning to find him swimming in the exact same
place that he was swimming last night before I went to bed.Thanks so
much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date:
9/6/2007
> 3:18 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş>
¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş
((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23837 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23838 From: William Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Try live worms. Or if you cannot find any live worms then try to
soak the freeze dried or frozen ones in fresh squeezed garlic juice
before you put it in. The garlic juice will increase the appetite
and also will help to get rid of parasites inside of the fish.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that
Mongabay
> profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will
confirm that
> they like live foods.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
> I called the store where i got him and they said they have the
same problem
> with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of
his face
> when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still
didnt see him
> eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him
and swam
> backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can
find some
> kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I
just dont
> know what to do.
>
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> tundra@ wrote:
> >
> > yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish
before
> i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms.
I have
> found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on
plants. I
> have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the
gravel.But yet
> mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke
up this
> morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was
swimming
> last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> > Bye,
> > Melanie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
> America/New_York
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you
know
> they get
> > really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
> as juvi's
> > and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them
with
> lots of
> > references at the bottom for further reading.
> > http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> > <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
> >
> > Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
> tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of scoobyd559
> > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
> feeding
> > bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
> circling the
> > outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
> tank and he
> > doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay
on
> his cave
> > but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
> feeders so
> > how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
> morning.
> > This is the third day i have had him.
> > Any ideas are welcome.
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date:
9/6/2007
> 3:18 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23839 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
This looks like it may be the fish you are questioning:

http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=5386&genusname=Mor
myrus&speciesname=longirostris

TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/2psls6

It gets to be a pretty big boy, if you ask me, about 29.5" long and in
the area of 4.5 pounds. Hope you have a VERY LARGE tank for it.

In the Google search box, type "dolphin mormyrid" to find related web
sites.


\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of quietari
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] mormyrid question

Hey all

I recently saw a dolphin mormyrid at my LFS and absolutely fell in
love with it. I have a brand new 60 gallon tank i think would make a
perfect home for it (it's been cycled, prepped, planted, etc etc).
However I know the mormyrid family can be tricky fish to keep. I have
been searching the net for info, but most of it revolves around the
elephant nose mormyrid, and dolphin mormyrid info is very rare to say
the least. Does anyone have any information? My LFS owner suggests a
higher temp (high 70s, low 80s) and a more brackish water type.
However i would like something a bit more detailed. Since it will be
the centerpiece of my new tank, i would like to know what the demands
are before i get involved.

Thanks in advance,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23840 From: quietari Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
From my reading there are several different species of the 'dolphin'
mormyrid. The fish you linked is the larger variety, and is fished
and cooked as food in africa.

The species in my LFS is a smaller variety, capping out from 15-20
inches (i believe it's nearly full grown).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This looks like it may be the fish you are questioning:
>
> http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=5386&genusname=Mor
> myrus&speciesname=longirostris
>
> TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/2psls6
>
> It gets to be a pretty big boy, if you ask me, about 29.5" long and in
> the area of 4.5 pounds. Hope you have a VERY LARGE tank for it.
>
> In the Google search box, type "dolphin mormyrid" to find related web
> sites.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of quietari
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] mormyrid question
>
> Hey all
>
> I recently saw a dolphin mormyrid at my LFS and absolutely fell in
> love with it. I have a brand new 60 gallon tank i think would make a
> perfect home for it (it's been cycled, prepped, planted, etc etc).
> However I know the mormyrid family can be tricky fish to keep. I have
> been searching the net for info, but most of it revolves around the
> elephant nose mormyrid, and dolphin mormyrid info is very rare to say
> the least. Does anyone have any information? My LFS owner suggests a
> higher temp (high 70s, low 80s) and a more brackish water type.
> However i would like something a bit more detailed. Since it will be
> the centerpiece of my new tank, i would like to know what the demands
> are before i get involved.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23841 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Thanks Lenny. I'll check it out....

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sat 9/8/2007 7:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] desert gobies...



Never had them but here's a few profiles/articles about them.

http://www.desertfishes.org/australia/fish/chlaerem.shtml

http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/SpeciesSummary.php?id=22773

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Ball_Chlamydogobius_eremius.htm
l

http://watershed3.tripod.com/natives.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chlamydogobius

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 6:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] desert gobies...

Hi All,

I was looking thru fish supplies on eBay and saw an ad for desert gobies.
I looked them up and thought they were pretty interesting fish. Has anyone
one out there had them? Do you know how big they get? Are they really as
peaceful as they sound. With a mouth that large they could eat at least half
of my fish. I have mostly tetras and mollies. Anyway, I just wanted to see.

Thanks,
Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Z`·.¸¸.><((((s>.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸><((((s> ¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..><((((s>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<s((((><.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸<s((((><¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..<s((((><·´Z`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23842 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: desert gobies...
Are the violets similar to the desert ones? I'll check the
link out when I get home. Can't do it here at work. Thanks!

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Susan Mrenna
Sent: Sat 9/8/2007 7:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE: desert gobies...



I have Violet gobies and they also have a huge mouth but can only eat tiny
foods. Mine are brackish fish. Look yours up on the internet. Here is one
link:

http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Wilson_Desert_Goby.html <http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/breeding/Wilson_Desert_Goby.html>

Susan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23844 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: Violet gobies...
I have 2 that do just fine in fresh water. I do add about a handful of
aquarium salt when I change the water (55 gal tank). Mine are about 8 or 9
inches long now. We have had them for about 2 or 3 years now.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Mrenna
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 12:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE:Violet gobies...



The Violets get big. They are long and skinny with big mouths and tiny eyes.
They must have brackish to full marine water. They love bloodworms and that
is about the biggest thing they eat. Very non-competitive for food. I have
mine in a tank i am slowly converting to full saltwater. I have nerite
snails and Malaysian trumpet snails and a couple different kinds of hermit
crabs and a few Endler's livebearers. All are handling the gradual change
well. I enjoy them and they have been much happier with the increased salt.
Susan

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23845 From: Debbie Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Well, I'm having such bad luck on getting a Diamond Goby, Got one
last week, had it home for about a day and it disappeared, thought
maybe it was hinding behind the rocks or something, then I really
started looking for him... come to find him, he some how jumped out,
was on the floor behind the tank stand... Yesterday, my hubby went and
got another one, came straight home again, put his bag in the tank to
let him get ajusted, came back a bit later and, you guessed it, he died
too... This saltwater is so frustating at times....guess we wait till
next payday and try again.... Thanks Debbie/ca
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23846 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Debbie, are you adding a little water from your aquarium every 10-15 min. untill the water is doubled in the bag?
Can you give the your water quality readings and salinity?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Debbie
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 2:34 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Diamond Goby- having bad luck


Well, I'm having such bad luck on getting a Diamond Goby, Got one
last week, had it home for about a day and it disappeared, thought
maybe it was hinding behind the rocks or something, then I really
started looking for him... come to find him, he some how jumped out,
was on the floor behind the tank stand... Yesterday, my hubby went and
got another one, came straight home again, put his bag in the tank to
let him get ajusted, came back a bit later and, you guessed it, he died
too... This saltwater is so frustating at times....guess we wait till
next payday and try again.... Thanks Debbie/ca






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.12.6/971 - Release Date: 8/24/2007 2:59 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23847 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Re: mormyrid question
Therein lies the problem of using common names of fish--one name can
mean many things. I also had a thought that it may be a baby whale
(Pollimyrus spp.) that was being referred to.

However, even if it is the species you are referring to, 15" is still a
very large fish and requires a large aquarium to keep. Large enough to
be out of the reach of many people due to space or money reasons.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of quietari
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 1:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: mormyrid question

From my reading there are several different species of the 'dolphin'
mormyrid. The fish you linked is the larger variety, and is fished
and cooked as food in africa.

The species in my LFS is a smaller variety, capping out from 15-20
inches (i believe it's nearly full grown).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> This looks like it may be the fish you are questioning:
>
>
http://www.fishbase.org/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=5386&genusname=Mor
> myrus&speciesname=longirostris
>
> TinyURL: http://tinyurl.com/2psls6
>
> It gets to be a pretty big boy, if you ask me, about 29.5" long and in
> the area of 4.5 pounds. Hope you have a VERY LARGE tank for it.
>
> In the Google search box, type "dolphin mormyrid" to find related web
> sites.
>
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of quietari
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 8:50 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] mormyrid question
>
> Hey all
>
> I recently saw a dolphin mormyrid at my LFS and absolutely fell in
> love with it. I have a brand new 60 gallon tank i think would make a
> perfect home for it (it's been cycled, prepped, planted, etc etc).
> However I know the mormyrid family can be tricky fish to keep. I have
> been searching the net for info, but most of it revolves around the
> elephant nose mormyrid, and dolphin mormyrid info is very rare to say
> the least. Does anyone have any information? My LFS owner suggests a
> higher temp (high 70s, low 80s) and a more brackish water type.
> However i would like something a bit more detailed. Since it will be
> the centerpiece of my new tank, i would like to know what the demands
> are before i get involved.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23848 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/8/2007
Subject: Fish Tank Cartoon
Some fun for the weekend.

http://www.fishtankcartoon.com/default.aspx?ID=0



\\Steve//
"Money can't buy friends, but it can get you a better class of enemy."
Spike Milligan (1918-2002)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23849 From: ~Kristy~ Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Classroom Fish
Thank you all for your help. One of our members is giving me White Clouds so I am very excited. Once they get adjusted to the tank I might add another colour fish, not too sure. Is there anyway I can post photos on this forum?

Kristy


Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM








---------------------------------
All new Yahoo! Mail
---------------------------------
Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23850 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
You will need to upload them to the photos section of the files area in the forum.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~Kristy~
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 7:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish

Thank you all for your help. One of our members is giving me White Clouds so I am very excited. Once they get adjusted to the tank I might add another colour fish, not too sure. Is there anyway I can post photos on this forum?

Kristy


Books are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM








---------------------------------
All new Yahoo! Mail
---------------------------------
Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23851 From: hamrad45 Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: What am I doing wrong?
I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates
down below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I
am using distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks
which are fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23852 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Tank Cartoon
Fabulous! Thanks Steve.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 1:58 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; aquaria@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Tank Cartoon



Some fun for the weekend.

http://www.fishtank <http://www.fishtankcartoon.com/default.aspx?ID=0>
cartoon.com/default.aspx?ID=0

\\Steve//
"Money can't buy friends, but it can get you a better class of enemy."
Spike Milligan (1918-2002)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23853 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Either fewer fish or bigger water changes (I do 50% weekly water changes on
all my tanks). Nitrates is not a function of an incomplete cycle, your fish
are producing a certain amount of waste and you are not removing enough of
the resulting Nitrates each week to achieve your goal.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 9:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?



I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates
down below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I
am using distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks
which are fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23854 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date: 9/6/2007
3:18 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23855 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
This store, going by your descriptions, doesn't sound like they know
much more about this fish than you do, Melanie. They don't have ANY
live food? Not much of a fish shop. I would listen to people here
before taking advice from a "shop" that couldn't keep the fish any
better than you can. The fish behaved the same under their care? Then
I would start figuring things out for myself. (With help from the
RIGHT people.)
>
> The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed
him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just
a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did
stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed
him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the
filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him
on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of
died already?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
> I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that
Mongabay
> profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will
confirm that
> they like live foods.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
> I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same
problem
> with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his
face
> when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still
didnt see him
> eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him
and swam
> backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can
find some
> kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I
just dont
> know what to do.
>
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> tundra@ wrote:
> >
> > yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish
before
> i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms.
I have
> found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on
plants. I
> have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the
gravel.But yet
> mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up
this
> morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was
swimming
> last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> > Bye,
> > Melanie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
> America/New_York
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
> they get
> > really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
> as juvi's
> > and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
> lots of
> > references at the bottom for further reading.
> > http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> > <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
> >
> > Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
> tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of scoobyd559
> > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
> feeding
> > bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
> circling the
> > outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
> tank and he
> > doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay
on
> his cave
> > but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
> feeders so
> > how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
> morning.
> > This is the third day i have had him.
> > Any ideas are welcome.
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date:
9/6/2007
> 3:18 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş>
¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş
((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23856 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Have you tried feeding at lights out, and see if there are worms left in the morning?

Have you tried feeding what the shop was feeding?

A healthy, well fed fish can last two weeks or more without food. Is there the chance he is eating while you are not observing at night? They are, after all, nocturnal creatures, and do not get used to light as readily as some of the other nocturnal creatures kept in aquaria.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23857 From: Debbie Swick Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Diamond Goby- having bad luck
Sissy, would do that if we made it that far.. live about 40 mins from the fish store.. quess the last one was only in the bag in the water about 10 mins...just gotta keep tryin, have one in my nano tank thats doing great.. Debbie/ca Re: Diamond Goby- having bad luck Posted by: "Sissy Sathre" ssathre@... ssathre Sat Sep 8, 2007 3:27 pm (PST) Debbie, are you adding a little water from your aquarium every 10-15 min. untill the water is doubled in the bag?
Can you give the your water quality readings and salinity?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Debbie
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 2:34 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Diamond Goby- having bad luck

Well, I'm having such bad luck on getting a Diamond Goby, Got one
last week, had it home for about a day and it disappeared, thought
maybe it was hinding behind the rocks or something, then I really
started looking for him... come to find him, he some how jumped out,
was on the floor behind the tank stand... Yesterday, my hubby went and
got another one, came straight home again, put his bag in the tank to
let him get ajusted, came back a bit later and, you guessed it, he died
too... This saltwater is so frustating at times....guess we wait till
next payday and try again.... Thanks Debbie/ca



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23858 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: canister filter question
Tomorrow I will be getting a Fluval 250 canister filter. (Overkill for
a 10 gal. tank? Perhaps.) I assume I should run both filters (the
canister and the little 'ol Whisper 10 I already had) until the media
in the can filter can build up a colony. Or am I wrong in that
assumption? Are there any other special procedures I should keep in
mind when integrating a canister filter? Thank you for your help. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23859 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Two things...

Distilled Water -

I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of your PWC's.
Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap? Distilled
water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are necessary
for all life forms.

Nitrates -

What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the fish?
Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it should have
0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More than
likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some water
supplies also have higher nitrates.

Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you doing proper
filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my
article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly" cleaning
it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of nitrates.

While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank
Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds of fish
for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?

I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates down
below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am using
distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which are
fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23860 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
the only live food at petsmart is crickets and the other fish are all to big for my little guy to eat.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 11:21:28 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question







This store, going by your descriptions, doesn't sound like they know
much more about this fish than you do, Melanie. They don't have ANY
live food? Not much of a fish shop. I would listen to people here
before taking advice from a "shop" that couldn't keep the fish any
better than you can. The fish behaved the same under their care? Then
I would start figuring things out for myself. (With help from the
RIGHT people.)
>
> The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed
him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just
a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did
stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed
him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the
filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him
on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of
died already?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
> I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that
Mongabay
> profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will
confirm that
> they like live foods.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
> I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same
problem
> with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his
face
> when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still
didnt see him
> eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him
and swam
> backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can
find some
> kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I
just dont
> know what to do.
>
> In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> tundra@ wrote:
> >
> > yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish
before
> i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms.
I have
> found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on
plants. I
> have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the
gravel.But yet
> mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up
this
> morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was
swimming
> last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> > Bye,
> > Melanie
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
> America/New_York
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
> they get
> > really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
> as juvi's
> > and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
> lots of
> > references at the bottom for further reading.
> > http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> > < http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html >
> >
> > Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
> tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > < http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of scoobyd559
> > Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
> >
> > I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
> feeding
> > bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
> circling the
> > outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
> tank and he
> > doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay
on
> his cave
> > but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
> feeders so
> > how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
> morning.
> > This is the third day i have had him.
> > Any ideas are welcome.
> > Thanks,
> > Melanie
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.8/993 - Release Date:
9/6/2007
> 3:18 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş>
¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş
((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23861 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Btw, a word to the wise; if you continue to use distilled water for
your PWCs, watch your pH level closely; it can drop quite suddenly on
you.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Two things...
>
> Distilled Water -
>
> I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of
your PWC's.
> Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap?
Distilled
> water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are
necessary
> for all life forms.
>
> Nitrates -
>
> What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the
fish?
> Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it
should have
> 0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
> occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More
than
> likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some
water
> supplies also have higher nitrates.
>
> Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you
doing proper
> filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read
my
> article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly"
cleaning
> it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of
nitrates.
>
> While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10
Gallon Tank
> Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds
of fish
> for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of hamrad45
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?
>
> I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it
had
> finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the
nitrates down
> below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am
using
> distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which
are
> fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tom
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date:
9/8/2007
> 1:24 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23862 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: canister filter question
I think any canister will way too much filtration for your 10G. You
probably should have just bumped up to a HOB rated for a 20G tank. Unless
the Fluval has a dial for lowering the output or if you have something like
zebra danios or WCMM's, the current will make most fish too stressed to
move. I hope you get this in time.

For others reading this... if you plan to change filtration on a tank, you
could either run both filters for a month to allow the new filter to build
up a nitrifying bacteria colony or simply take the filter cartridge out of
the older filter and put it in with the filter media of the newer filter
system. This would transfer the majority of the N-bacteria over to the new
filter and leave it in there for a few weeks until the new filter media has
built up it's own colony.

Many people, including me, will leave the extra filter media in one of my
other filters so that I always have a fully "cycled" filter pad/cartridge
ready to go in case I need to set up a 10G Q-tank or H-tank for new or sick
fish. Or if one of your friends or neighbors is setting up a tank so they
can start off with a fully cycled filter so their fish don't go through the
cycling process.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 11:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] canister filter question

Tomorrow I will be getting a Fluval 250 canister filter. (Overkill for a 10
gal. tank? Perhaps.) I assume I should run both filters (the canister and
the little 'ol Whisper 10 I already had) until the media in the can filter
can build up a colony. Or am I wrong in that assumption? Are there any other
special procedures I should keep in mind when integrating a canister filter?
Thank you for your help. :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23863 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Petsmart? I realize that sometimes it is the only alternative. But
try REALLY hard to find a real aquarium shop. Even if you have to go
farther, it's worth it. I am POSITIVE now; you know at least as much
as anyone at Petsmart (or any other 'super' store.)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tundra@... wrote:
>
> the only live food at petsmart is crickets and the other fish are
all to big for my little guy to eat.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 11:21:28 AM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This store, going by your descriptions, doesn't sound like they
know
> much more about this fish than you do, Melanie. They don't have ANY
> live food? Not much of a fish shop. I would listen to people here
> before taking advice from a "shop" that couldn't keep the fish any
> better than you can. The fish behaved the same under their care?
Then
> I would start figuring things out for myself. (With help from the
> RIGHT people.)
> >
> > The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever
fed
> him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is
just
> a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did
> stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed
> him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the
> filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him
> on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of
> died already?

> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Å
»`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş>
> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<Å
Ÿ
> ((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş
((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23864 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: canister filter question
Yes of course I can dial it down. At max it puts out 180 gph. If I
turn it down halfway, that's 90 gph, the same as my current HOB. I
see it as an investment also. Now I can move up to a 40 gallon tank
without getting a new filter.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I think any canister will way too much filtration for your 10G. You
> probably should have just bumped up to a HOB rated for a 20G tank.
Unless
> the Fluval has a dial for lowering the output or if you have
something like
> zebra danios or WCMM's, the current will make most fish too
stressed to
> move. I hope you get this in time.
>
> For others reading this... if you plan to change filtration on a
tank, you
> could either run both filters for a month to allow the new filter
to build
> up a nitrifying bacteria colony or simply take the filter cartridge
out of
> the older filter and put it in with the filter media of the newer
filter
> system. This would transfer the majority of the N-bacteria over to
the new
> filter and leave it in there for a few weeks until the new filter
media has
> built up it's own colony.
>
> Many people, including me, will leave the extra filter media in one
of my
> other filters so that I always have a fully "cycled" filter
pad/cartridge
> ready to go in case I need to set up a 10G Q-tank or H-tank for new
or sick
> fish. Or if one of your friends or neighbors is setting up a tank
so they
> can start off with a fully cycled filter so their fish don't go
through the
> cycling process.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 11:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] canister filter question
>
> Tomorrow I will be getting a Fluval 250 canister filter. (Overkill
for a 10
> gal. tank? Perhaps.) I assume I should run both filters (the
canister and
> the little 'ol Whisper 10 I already had) until the media in the can
filter
> can build up a colony. Or am I wrong in that assumption? Are there
any other
> special procedures I should keep in mind when integrating a
canister filter?
> Thank you for your help. :)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date:
9/8/2007
> 1:24 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23865 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
How long did the store have him before you bought him? Most fish can go up
to 2 weeks or longer without food so he may have eaten well before being
shipped to the store and got stressed out from that. Then being moved to
your tank further stressed him out so he's not eating. I would leave the
lights off except for the room lights during the day so he can become more
comfortable in his new home and maybe that will prompt him to eat. Can't
you catch some live food for him?

If you read that profile and other links, there were things listed like
crickets or other bugs that you might be able to catch and then put one on
the surface of the water at night and let the little guy stalk and catch his
own meal like he would in nature. I wish my goldfish would eat the giant
cockroaches that we have down here in New Orleans area... actually, they
probably would... of course, then I'd have to go out and catch them every
night. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 9:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live
food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny
thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I
also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go
everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and
doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt
eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
<http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html>
> <http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
<http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html> >
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23866 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
yep. i fed him at night and in the morning but it isnt completly dark in his tank. I am not sure if my filter is sucking up the bloodworms or if he is eating them. So now i have shut the filter off when i feed him. yep i am feeding what petsmart was feeding him. Frozen bloodworms. Yes there are worms left in the morning and i just fed him a whole bunch and he seems to be scanning the bottom and the little trees. Sence i turned off the filter he is really swimming around. This is the first time in 4 days he has ever swam to the top of the tank. I have seen him bounce off the things so does that mean he is sucking things up when he does that? Mabi i am being paranoid and he is eating whne i dont see him. I just am not sure. 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 11:09:24 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question







Have you tried feeding at lights out, and see if there are worms left in the morning?

Have you tried feeding what the shop was feeding?

A healthy, well fed fish can last two weeks or more without food. Is there the chance he is eating while you are not observing at night? They are, after all, nocturnal creatures, and do not get used to light as readily as some of the other nocturnal creatures kept in aquaria.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" < GoldLenny@... >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> < http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html >
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> < http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com >
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23867 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
I check the pH every week along with the other tests. I have been using distilled water because are tab water is almost toxic due to the high level of chemicals the city dumps into the the system and we are about a half a mile from their plant. After loosing my first two fish with days, I tested the water and every parameter was off the charts. Would you suggest using plain bottled water?

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:46 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What am I doing wrong?


Btw, a word to the wise; if you continue to use distilled water for
your PWCs, watch your pH level closely; it can drop quite suddenly on
you.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Two things...
>
> Distilled Water -
>
> I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of
your PWC's.
> Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap?
Distilled
> water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are
necessary
> for all life forms.
>
> Nitrates -
>
> What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the
fish?
> Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it
should have
> 0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
> occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More
than
> likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some
water
> supplies also have higher nitrates.
>
> Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you
doing proper
> filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read
my
> article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly"
cleaning
> it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of
nitrates.
>
> While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10
Gallon Tank
> Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds
of fish
> for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of hamrad45
> Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?
>
> I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it
had
> finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the
nitrates down
> below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am
using
> distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which
are
> fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Tom
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date:
9/8/2007
> 1:24 PM
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23868 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
I have been using distilled water because our tab water is almost toxic due
to the high level of chemicals the city dumps into the the system and we are
about a half a mile from their plant. After loosing my first two fish
within days, I tested the water and every parameter was off the charts.
Would you suggest using plain bottled water?

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?


Two things...

Distilled Water -

I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of your PWC's.
Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap? Distilled
water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are necessary
for all life forms.

Nitrates -

What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the fish?
Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it should have
0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More than
likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some water
supplies also have higher nitrates.

Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you doing proper
filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my
article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly" cleaning
it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of nitrates.

While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank
Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds of fish
for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?

I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates down
below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am using
distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which are
fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23869 From: Hamrad Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
BTW, in the 10 gallon tank I only have 5 fish and all are under 1.5 inches.
I am also wondering if it is the filter system as the tank came with a
cheapo hang over the side filter. I am having no problems with my 30 gallon
tank which I got used and I guess it was properly broken in. It has a much
better filter system althought not the best. In the 10 gallon tank I have
tried 3 pair of guppies and everyone of them died within a few days. All
other parameters in the 10 gallon tank are normal although it did take a
full 6 weeks to get the nitrites down to zero. The five fish I have in the
10 gallon tank seem to be doing fine. Some have been in there for over a
month.

Thanks for your time,

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?


Two things...

Distilled Water -

I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of your PWC's.
Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap? Distilled
water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are necessary
for all life forms.

Nitrates -

What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the fish?
Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it should have
0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More than
likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some water
supplies also have higher nitrates.

Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you doing proper
filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my
article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly" cleaning
it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of nitrates.

While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank
Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds of fish
for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?

I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates down
below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am using
distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which are
fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23870 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: What am I doing wrong?
Well it would probably be cheaper to get a PUR type faucet filter and filter
the water... but using bottled spring or just bottle drinking water would
be much better than distilled water. Contact the company who makes the
water and find out what is in their bottle spring or drinking water and make
sure it is safe.

You never answered most of my other questions about doing filter maintenance
and vacuuming the gravel so I hope you read the articles on my blog
concerning those topics. They have to be your source of nitrates since you
say you are doing 10-20% PWC's each week.

What are the full range of test results for the tank? Ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, pH, temperature, GH & KH?

What are the five fish? If they are pleco's or goldfish or other wide body
fish, they put out far more waste than five zebra danios. It's not just the
length that matters.... it's the body mass of the fish.

This is not just to you but to any others reading this who only partially
answer replies.... When we type long replies and ask questions, we're not
just doing it to see how nice we type. The questions we ask have specific
reasons and it's very difficult to give proper advice without knowing some
basic facts.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Hamrad
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?


I have been using distilled water because our tab water is almost toxic due
to the high level of chemicals the city dumps into the the system and we are
about a half a mile from their plant. After loosing my first two fish
within days, I tested the water and every parameter was off the charts.
Would you suggest using plain bottled water?

Tom S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:39 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?


Two things...

Distilled Water -

I'm not sure if it's good to be using distilled water for all of your PWC's.
Why are you using distilled? Are you mixing it with your tap? Distilled
water does not have the necessary minerals and nutrients that are necessary
for all life forms.

Nitrates -

What kind of fish/plants do you have and how many? How big are the fish?
Presuming you are using the distilled water as you stated, it should have
0.0ppm of nitrates but maybe you should check it also. If you are
occasionally using your tap water, you need to check it also. More than
likely, the nitrates are coming from your fish bioload but some water
supplies also have higher nitrates.

Are you vacuuming your gravel with your weekly PWC's? Are you doing proper
filter maintenance/cleaning? Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my
article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. If you aren't "properly" cleaning
it on a regular basis, your filter will also become a source of nitrates.

While you are at my blog, check out the article on "Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank
Stocking Suggestions" so you can get more ideas for the right kinds of fish
for your tank if you decide to change things around in the future.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 8:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What am I doing wrong?

I have a new 10 gallon tank I setup back in May 07'. I thought it had
finished the normal startup cycle but I still can't get the nitrates down
below 40. I have changed 1 to 2 gallons of water each week and I am using
distilled water (the same water I am using in my other tanks which are
fine). Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

Tom



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.10/995 - Release Date: 9/8/2007
1:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23871 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
If he is more active when the filter is turned off, you may need to reduce the flow through the filter some to get him comfortable. The flow that is now present may well be too much for him. You should see any of the bloodworms that may be sucked in by the filter in the first layer of your filer media. Some will always be found in the filter, but if it appears that most of them are, you'll need to reduce the flow, and perhaps put something with a fine mesh over the intake to keep most of the worms in the tank.

Depends on what you mean by bouncing. If he is moving into something, then moves away from it, you should be able to tell by the movement of his fins, then he is likely searching for food and eating it as it is found. If he is literally bouncing off things, then something is interfering with his navigation. Black ghosts use a weak electrical field that they generate to find food and aid in navigation. If any electricity is leaking into your tank, this can cause them to become disoriented, have a hard time avoiding objects in their path and finding food. There are likely other things that can throw off the generation and sensing of these electrical fields, but I am not familiar with them.

In your attempts to ensure he is eating, be sure not to over feed. Left over frozen bloodworms will start to decay fairly rapidly adding to the biological load in your tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

yep. i fed him at night and in the morning but it isnt completly dark in his tank. I am not sure if my filter is sucking up the bloodworms or if he is eating them. So now i have shut the filter off when i feed him. yep i am feeding what petsmart was feeding him. Frozen bloodworms. Yes there are worms left in the morning and i just fed him a whole bunch and he seems to be scanning the bottom and the little trees. Sence i turned off the filter he is really swimming around. This is the first time in 4 days he has ever swam to the top of the tank. I have seen him bounce off the things so does that mean he is sucking things up when he does that? Mabi i am being paranoid and he is eating whne i dont see him. I just am not sure. 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 11:09:24 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question







Have you tried feeding at lights out, and see if there are worms left in the morning?

Have you tried feeding what the shop was feeding?

A healthy, well fed fish can last two weeks or more without food. Is there the chance he is eating while you are not observing at night? They are, after all, nocturnal creatures, and do not get used to light as readily as some of the other nocturnal creatures kept in aquaria.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" < GoldLenny@... >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> < http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html >
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> < http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com >
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23872 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/9/2007
Subject: Re: Classroom Fish
How many white clouds are you putting in. You don't want to overstock your tank. You'd be surprised how colorful a school of white clouds on their own with the right temperature can be. Don't forget to fully cycle your tank before adding any fish.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: steve@...: Sun, 9 Sep 2007 08:42:55 -0400Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Classroom Fish




You will need to upload them to the photos section of the files area in the forum.\\Steve// -----Original Message-----From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ~Kristy~Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 7:58 AMTo: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comSubject: [AquaticLife] Classroom FishThank you all for your help. One of our members is giving me White Clouds so I am very excited. Once they get adjusted to the tank I might add another colour fish, not too sure. Is there anyway I can post photos on this forum?KristyBooks are the gifts we give our friends. Reading is the gift we give ourselves. ~ KM---------------------------------All new Yahoo! Mail ---------------------------------Get news delivered. Enjoy RSS feeds right on your Mail page.[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter. Yahoo! Groups Links






_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever � Get MORE with Windows Live� Hotmail�. NOW with 5GB storage.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23873 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
I want to thank each and every one of you from the bottom of my heart but unfortuntly he died this morning. I even went back twice to the store and begged them to show me how they feed the last one in there tank and they wouldnt. I wont be getting any more black knife fish even though I love them so much. You all are right. I wont be getting any more fish at petsmart. I just bought this little white fish and it was so agressive it killed the black one of its own kind. This is the third time something like this has happened with petsmarts fish. I have 12 little yellow baby fish i guess i can fill the tank with. Not sure what else I will get to replace the black knife fish though. he was so cool looking. Thank you all so much for your help!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 9:51:32 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question







If he is more active when the filter is turned off, you may need to reduce the flow through the filter some to get him comfortable. The flow that is now present may well be too much for him. You should see any of the bloodworms that may be sucked in by the filter in the first layer of your filer media. Some will always be found in the filter, but if it appears that most of them are, you'll need to reduce the flow, and perhaps put something with a fine mesh over the intake to keep most of the worms in the tank.

Depends on what you mean by bouncing. If he is moving into something, then moves away from it, you should be able to tell by the movement of his fins, then he is likely searching for food and eating it as it is found. If he is literally bouncing off things, then something is interfering with his navigation. Black ghosts use a weak electrical field that they generate to find food and aid in navigation. If any electricity is leaking into your tank, this can cause them to become disoriented, have a hard time avoiding objects in their path and finding food. There are likely other things that can throw off the generation and sensing of these electrical fields, but I am not familiar with them.

In your attempts to ensure he is eating, be sure not to over feed. Left over frozen bloodworms will start to decay fairly rapidly adding to the biological load in your tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 12:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

yep. i fed him at night and in the morning but it isnt completly dark in his tank. I am not sure if my filter is sucking up the bloodworms or if he is eating them. So now i have shut the filter off when i feed him. yep i am feeding what petsmart was feeding him. Frozen bloodworms. Yes there are worms left in the morning and i just fed him a whole bunch and he seems to be scanning the bottom and the little trees. Sence i turned off the filter he is really swimming around. This is the first time in 4 days he has ever swam to the top of the tank. I have seen him bounce off the things so does that mean he is sucking things up when he does that? Mabi i am being paranoid and he is eating whne i dont see him. I just am not sure. 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" < steve@... >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 9, 2007 11:09:24 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question







Have you tried feeding at lights out, and see if there are worms left in the morning?

Have you tried feeding what the shop was feeding?

A healthy, well fed fish can last two weeks or more without food. Is there the chance he is eating while you are not observing at night? They are, after all, nocturnal creatures, and do not get used to light as readily as some of the other nocturnal creatures kept in aquaria.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2007 10:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

The store doesnt have live food and they said they havent ever fed him live food so they arent sure if he would eat it sence he is just a little tiny thing. His tank is all set up and the bloodworms did stick to the plants. I also have to turn the filter off when i feed him so the bloodworms dont go everywhere and get sucked up in the filter. he is still swimming around and doing good today. I got him on the 5th and today is the 9th so if he wasnt eating would he of died already?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" < GoldLenny@... >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 8, 2007 10:30:38 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I recall reading that they mostly like live foods. Look over that Mongabay
profile and the references at the bottom and I think it will confirm that
they like live foods.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I called the store where i got him and they said they have the same problem
with them. They told me to put the bloodworms right in front of his face
when he is out swimming. So of course i tried that and i still didnt see him
eat a thing.He was scared to death of the baster i use to feed him and swam
backwards to get away. I am headed to the store to see if i can find some
kind of plant that the bloodworms can stick too or something. I just dont
know what to do.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> yep i know he will get real big. I researched about the fish before
i got him and everything i have read says he will love bloodworms. I have
found nothing that says i have to put the food on his cave or on plants. I
have even seen pictures that shows the fish eating from the gravel.But yet
mine hasnt eaten from the gravel at all that i have seen. I woke up this
morning to find him swimming in the exact same place that he was swimming
last night before I went to bed.Thanks so much for the link.
> Bye,
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 7, 2007 10:32:27 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> What size tank and did you acclimate him properly? I hope you know
they get
> really BIG (over 15") and need a very large tank... even a 40-55G
as juvi's
> and much larger as adults. Here is Mongabay's profile on them with
lots of
> references at the bottom for further reading.
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html
> < http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html >
>
> Vacuum up the bloodworms off the bottom so they don't foul your
tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> < http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com >
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New member with question
>
> I have a ghost black knife fish in a tank all by himself and i am
feeding
> bloodworms. I have not seen him eat one. All he keeps doing is
circling the
> outside of his cave. All the bloodworms are on the bottom of the
tank and he
> doesnt find them down there. I try to get the bloodworms to stay on
his cave
> but they all fall off to the bottom. I was told they arent bottom
feeders so
> how do I get him to eat. I am afriad i will find him dead in the
morning.
> This is the third day i have had him.
> Any ideas are welcome.
> Thanks,
> Melanie
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23874 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Sorry to hear you lost the ghost fish. It's sad when you try hard to create
the right environment and care for them and they still die.

As for purchasing fish from Pet Smart I am not really opposed. They have
much more variety than the lfs. Some of the employees I've met keep their
own tanks and are very knowledgeable, others I'm sure have a hard time
getting to work every day. Make friends at the store where you shop with
the real fish nuts and stick with them. I purchased a lot of my plants from
them.

Since we can only house a certain number of fish in our tanks once they are
set up I have resorted to doing lots of research on fish I think I want and
then having my local fish store order them. This has worked well for me.

Again, I am sorry for your loss.

Deb Melton



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23875 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Thank you so much for your kind words.

All they keep telling me is they are a hard fish to keep alive. it doesnt make me feel any better though. My other fish are doing well and I have 12 little yellow babies that are growing and doing well also. Thank you all so much. I will be searching for a fish store in my area soon so I can start a salt water tank some time in the future.

Bye,
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23876 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
I am really sorry to hear about your fish dying, Melanie. Good luck
with your search for a decent aqaurium store. And I'm sure that if
you really like them, you will successfully raise a Ghost Knife
someday. :)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tundra@... wrote:
>
> I want to thank each and every one of you from the bottom of my
heart but unfortuntly he died this morning. I even went back twice to
the store and begged them to show me how they feed the last one in
there tank and they wouldnt. I wont be getting any more black knife
fish even though I love them so much. You all are right. I wont be
getting any more fish at petsmart. I just bought this little white
fish and it was so agressive it killed the black one of its own kind.
This is the third time something like this has happened with
petsmarts fish. I have 12 little yellow baby fish i guess i can fill
the tank with. Not sure what else I will get to replace the black
knife fish though. he was so cool looking. Thank you all so much for
your help!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23877 From: quietari Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: never slave over a large tank again
So after installing my first large tank (70 gallon) and going through
the cleaning methods i used with my smaller tanks (manual siphon,
buckets, water changes) i quickly realized that doing a 20-25% water
change in this tank is much more a hassle than their smaller counterparts.

My solution? A strong pond water pump, about 15 feet of thick three
quarter inch tubing, and a keg bucket. I just drop the pump into the
tank and pump the water out (directly into my sink). I use the keg
bucket for the replacement bucket. Fill it, treat it, let it sit for
a day or so, then just drop the pond pump into the bucket and pump it
right into the tank.

Naturally i clean the tank first (its planted so most of my time was
spent pruning\replanting), but this has literally cut the time i need
to spend on the tank in half.

If im the last one to have learned this trick, just chalk up this post
to the adrenaline rush I got from simplifying my life,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23878 From: kelly_anne333 Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
You could always use a python.... it's even easier than what you are
doing now.

Kelly - still amazed at the # of people who haven't discovered python
systems.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "quietari" <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> So after installing my first large tank (70 gallon) and going
through
> the cleaning methods i used with my smaller tanks (manual siphon,
> buckets, water changes) i quickly realized that doing a 20-25% water
> change in this tank is much more a hassle than their smaller
counterparts.
>
> My solution? A strong pond water pump, about 15 feet of thick three
> quarter inch tubing, and a keg bucket. I just drop the pump into
the
> tank and pump the water out (directly into my sink). I use the keg
> bucket for the replacement bucket. Fill it, treat it, let it sit
for
> a day or so, then just drop the pond pump into the bucket and pump
it
> right into the tank.
>
> Naturally i clean the tank first (its planted so most of my time was
> spent pruning\replanting), but this has literally cut the time i
need
> to spend on the tank in half.
>
> If im the last one to have learned this trick, just chalk up this
post
> to the adrenaline rush I got from simplifying my life,
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23879 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Using a submersible pump is way easier way for water changes .. to pump your
new water into the tank. Just plug in and it's filled



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23880 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Tank overheating
I'm trying to determine why my tank is overheating during the summer months when the room temperature is only 79 and the heater has been unplugged.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is the internal fluval filter must be putting out some heat.
Wendie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23881 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Plus those gravel vaccums always break way to easy.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23882 From: Sam Palermo Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Hi Wendie,

Also consider that the lighting may be adding some heat also. If you are using lighting it may be good to elevate the fixture off the tanks cover a few inches too allow heat to escape that would otherwise be subjected to the tank.

Sam,

Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I'm trying to determine why my tank is overheating during the summer months when the room temperature is only 79 and the heater has been unplugged.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is the internal fluval filter must be putting out some heat.
Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23883 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Another thing to do is to turn on the lights at night and off during the
day. What type of fish do you have. Depending on the species you have they could
take a higher temp.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23884 From: rick linboom Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
was wanting a python, but I got a question first, when
you fill up your tank after cleaning how do you treat
your water, if its going directly into the tank?.....






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23885 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Just put your dechlor directly into your tank and run the water in using your python.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: chicagobears2010@...: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 15:36:06 -0700Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly




was wanting a python, but I got a question first, whenyou fill up your tank after cleaning how do you treatyour water, if its going directly into the tank?.....__________________________________________________________Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7






_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo!
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_wlmailtextlink

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23886 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
fish need dark time to sleep. If you use the lights at night and then with natural daylight during the day, your poor fish would never sleep.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: joesbirds@...: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 17:53:42 -0400Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating




Another thing to do is to turn on the lights at night and off during the day. What type of fish do you have. Depending on the species you have they could take a higher temp.************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






_________________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words?  Take a break and play Seekadoo!
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_wlmailtextlink

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23887 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
It all depends on where you have them . If you have them in a fish room that
is not a problem. If you have them in a room like a living room. It is no
problem in my house as it is dark all day till I get home from work. If it is in
a room that is light during the day just cover the tank with dark
construction paper.





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23888 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
They are in the living room but I don't turn the lights on until about 8pm because
of the heat problem. There's a internal fluval and an external fluval. The other tanks seem to be okay.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: joesbirds@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating


It all depends on where you have them . If you have them in a fish room that
is not a problem. If you have them in a room like a living room. It is no
problem in my house as it is dark all day till I get home from work. If it is in
a room that is light during the day just cover the tank with dark
construction paper.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23889 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
I have loaches.. trust me they sleep. People think they're dead because they'll sleep upside down or on their sides in the caves during the daylight hours.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Francina Martinez
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 6:50 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating



fish need dark time to sleep. If you use the lights at night and then with natural daylight during the day, your poor fish would never sleep.

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: joesbirds@...: Mon, 10 Sep 2007 17:53:42 -0400Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating

Another thing to do is to turn on the lights at night and off during the day. What type of fish do you have. Depending on the species you have they could take a higher temp.************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
Can you find the hidden words? Take a break and play Seekadoo!
http://club.live.com/seekadoo.aspx?icid=seek_wlmailtextlink

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23890 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
That's what I do. No lights until about 8 or 9 and then until 12am or 1am.
There are loaches - hot for them - and plecos which don't seem to mind.
It's basically wall to wall caves for these guys so they can always get out of
the light whenever they want. Some plecos tend to stay inside the caves
in the back of the tank and I rarely see them unless I rearrange the caves.
A little high for breeding the plecos thou. The bottom tank is okay and they
are doing the dirty.

I lost the albino tiger barbs. They couldn't cope.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: joesbirds@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating


Another thing to do is to turn on the lights at night and off during the
day. What type of fish do you have. Depending on the species you have they could
take a higher temp.

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23891 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
what kind of loaches. do you have.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23892 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
They are Florissant lights on this with good ventilation.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Palermo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating


Hi Wendie,

Also consider that the lighting may be adding some heat also. If you are using lighting it may be good to elevate the fixture off the tanks cover a few inches too allow heat to escape that would otherwise be subjected to the tank.

Sam,

Wendie <wendieo@...> wrote: I'm trying to determine why my tank is overheating during the summer months when the room temperature is only 79 and the heater has been unplugged.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is the internal fluval filter must be putting out some heat.
Wendie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23893 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Why have the internal and external filters. Is the tank freshwater or salt
water.





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23894 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
The temp should have been fine for tiger barbs. Some loaches like it way
cooler and some hotter. Where is you tank located in the room near a window or
on a wall close to something that gives off heat. The ballast on flourecent
lighst can get really really hot.


In a message dated 9/10/2007 4:26:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wendieo@... writes:

albino tiger barbs




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23895 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
It's on a west wall, but then so is the other tank and that's not bad. The second tank has the same basic outfit.



----- Original Message -----
From: joesbirds@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating


The temp should have been fine for tiger barbs. Some loaches like it way
cooler and some hotter. Where is you tank located in the room near a window or
on a wall close to something that gives off heat. The ballast on flourecent
lighst can get really really hot.


In a message dated 9/10/2007 4:26:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wendieo@... writes:

albino tiger barbs

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23896 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
In that particular tank I have Yo Yo's and Clowns - fairly large as they are a couple years old. Oops... also black kuhlis and L234's.

The other tank has Clowns, Striatas, and Polka Dots - all about two years old along with a colony of breeding BN's, a medium sized gold nugget and some unknown pleco that no one seems to be able to ID.

Another tank has Rosy Loaches. The kuhlis are in their own tank and doing fine fighting for food with the baby plecos in there. The L174's are in with some baby L201's and a pair of breeding bettas. The tank with the L129's and green neons has been running a tad warm but I turned off the heater and that problem was solved.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: joesbirds@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating


what kind of loaches. do you have.

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23897 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
at least that tank's fish can be kept at higher temps. especially the yo yo
and clown's



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23898 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Why don't you try keeping both lights off for 24 hours other than room
lights and check the temps through out that period. That would be my next course
of action. First to rule out the lights or ballasts. Then try unplugging one
filter to see if that is the problem after ruling out the lights.





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23899 From: Wendie Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
Plecos are dirty. The loaches like the movement.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23900 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
I know about the plecos. I had a pair of plecos that would surface feed on
the herbivore chiclid pellets that I would feed my chiclids in the tank. I
really had to keep up on the cleaning on that tank. as they went so much. They
were at leat 10 inches each. Hope you find your heat source. in the tank. Also
the ballasts on flourecent lights can get very very hot. especially with the
smaller bulbs.





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23901 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
For the filter, just reach to the motor housing and see if it feels
warm.

As someone else mentioned, your lighting could be a cause of heating the
water. Even fluorescents throw off heat, just put your hand on the
fixture after it has been on for a few hours.

Does your tank get any direct sunlight? This could cause the tank to
warm up during the day, however, the temperature should drop again when
the sunlight is gone, though it will be a slow process.

How much higher is your tank temperature from the room temperature? A
couple of degrees should not be worrisome, unless you have temperate
water fish. Before I had central air, and before I had an always cool
basement, it was not unusual for me to note water temperatures a few
degrees warmer than room temperature during the summer months.

If you suspect your filter, you can probably change it to a bubble-up or
a model that hangs off the aquarium.

Unless you have plants, you can keep the lights off during the day, and
only turn them on when viewing the fish. The ambient light should be
enough for the fish. If you have plants, raising the light fixture off
the tank by a few inches will not be a detriment to your plant growth,
and the added air space will provide insulation from the heat thrown off
by the lamps.

Even if your tank does not get any direct sunlight in the cooler months,
it may do so during the summer, simply because the position of the sun
is different at this time of year. Closing whatever you have on the
window or door will stop this from happening.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating

I'm trying to determine why my tank is overheating during the summer
months when the room temperature is only 79 and the heater has been
unplugged.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is the internal fluval filter
must be putting out some heat.
Wendie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23902 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Seems I was late in my reply about the Python.

In my previous reply, I forgot to mention BigAlsOnline.com as another one of
my preferred online fish stores.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kelly_anne333
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 3:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again

You could always use a python.... it's even easier than what you are doing
now.

Kelly - still amazed at the # of people who haven't discovered python
systems.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"quietari" <quietari@...> wrote:
>
> So after installing my first large tank (70 gallon) and going
through
> the cleaning methods i used with my smaller tanks (manual siphon,
> buckets, water changes) i quickly realized that doing a 20-25% water
> change in this tank is much more a hassle than their smaller
counterparts.
>
> My solution? A strong pond water pump, about 15 feet of thick three
> quarter inch tubing, and a keg bucket. I just drop the pump into
the
> tank and pump the water out (directly into my sink). I use the keg
> bucket for the replacement bucket. Fill it, treat it, let it sit
for
> a day or so, then just drop the pond pump into the bucket and pump
it
> right into the tank.
>
> Naturally i clean the tank first (its planted so most of my time was
> spent pruning\replanting), but this has literally cut the time i
need
> to spend on the tank in half.
>
> If im the last one to have learned this trick, just chalk up this
post
> to the adrenaline rush I got from simplifying my life,
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.12/997 - Release Date: 9/9/2007
10:17 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23903 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again
Your way will work but the Python Water Change, Gravel Vacuum & Re-Fill
System works even easier and you don't need a motor or bucket. You can
usually get the 25' Python on sale for around $25.00 from the various online
stores... MarineDepot, PetsMart, DrsFosterSmith, etc.

Most dechlor products work instantly so there is no need to let the water
sit like in the old days. I just use my Python, vacuum the gravel and
remove water at the same time, then reverse the valve at the sink and refill
the tank. I add my dechlor to the tank prior to the refill process. Been
doing it this way for several years with no problems.

Just monitor the water temp since you don't want to change the tank temp by
more than 1-2F in an hour so if you are doing a 25% PWC, your tap would have
to be within 8F of the tank and even then, I would refill it slowly to give
the fish time to adjust to the slightly changing temp.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of quietari
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 1:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] never slave over a large tank again

So after installing my first large tank (70 gallon) and going through the
cleaning methods i used with my smaller tanks (manual siphon, buckets, water
changes) i quickly realized that doing a 20-25% water change in this tank is
much more a hassle than their smaller counterparts.

My solution? A strong pond water pump, about 15 feet of thick three quarter
inch tubing, and a keg bucket. I just drop the pump into the tank and pump
the water out (directly into my sink). I use the keg bucket for the
replacement bucket. Fill it, treat it, let it sit for a day or so, then just
drop the pond pump into the bucket and pump it right into the tank.

Naturally i clean the tank first (its planted so most of my time was spent
pruning\replanting), but this has literally cut the time i need to spend on
the tank in half.

If im the last one to have learned this trick, just chalk up this post to
the adrenaline rush I got from simplifying my life,


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.12/997 - Release Date: 9/9/2007
10:17 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23904 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Tank overheating
How hot is the tank getting? The motors on filters are very small and put
out little or no heat but maybe the internal fluval uses a different type of
motor than HOB's or canisters.

Do you have an airstone or other means of causing surface agitation?
Surface agitation will do wonders for lowering the temp (or raising it if
the room is hotter than the tank) and gas exchange to increase O2 and get
rid of CO2 and nitrous gases.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Wendie
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tank overheating

I'm trying to determine why my tank is overheating during the summer months
when the room temperature is only 79 and the heater has been unplugged.

Any ideas? The only thing I can think of is the internal fluval filter must
be putting out some heat.
Wendie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.12/997 - Release Date: 9/9/2007
10:17 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23905 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
I answered this in my previous long reply to the original poster.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rick linboom
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 5:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly


was wanting a python, but I got a question first, when you fill up your tank
after cleaning how do you treat your water, if its going directly into the
tank?.....

_

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.12/997 - Release Date: 9/9/2007
10:17 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23906 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
I have a python, but it only gets used on one tank. The other 34 tanks I
will not put water directly out of the tap. As soon as I can move this tank
with the other 34 it will not be used on it either.

pH can crash if the water is buffered. You add this high pH water and your
fish "may" be at a lower pH. Then 24 hours later it crashes to a lower pH.
Hard on the fish.

I use a 55 gallon tank as a holding tank where I let water sit for 24 hours
and treat for chloramines and run an air stone.

Mike

In a message dated 9/10/2007 3:47:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wilderness_girl_22@... writes:


Just put your dechlor directly into your tank and run the water in using
your python.







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23907 From: Ro Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Websites worth visiting
Hello group, I'm making a blog about aquarium websites and I'm runing
out of sites I know are worth visiting. If you could tell me about a
few sites that you have visited and you think have some thing extra or
have good content please let me know.

Ro
http://tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com/
<http://tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com/>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23908 From: Glen Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Hello everyone,

Today I noticed my tiger oscar all of a sudden has flaking skin on
the top of its head and on its left side. I'm wondering if this
is "hole in the head" starting or evidence of a defensive struggle.
How do I tell the difference?

Yesterday, I introduced a bristlenose pleco into the tank. I
noticed Ms Oscar making numerous attempts to investigate and get a
little too close, which my BN would have none of. I saw the pleco
flair out its fins and swipe its tail a few times to shoo away the
inquisitive tank mate when cornered.

As background, it is a 29 gallon tank with a 3" tiger oscar and a 2"
jack dempsey and now a 2" bristlenose. About 6 various plants. I
realize the tank is too small for the long term but it is what I can
handle now. Numbers always read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and
around 7.6 pH. I just did a 30% water change yesterday and added a
little Flourish iron supplement for the plants.

I have raised the temperature to about 80 (normally 76) and added
aquarium salt at the rate of one tablespoon per 5 gallons.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Glen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23909 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
You need to work on a MUCH bigger tank immediately. Why did you add another
fish to what you knew was an already undersized tank?

Keeping BIG, aggressive fish in an undersized tank while they are in their
most formative and growing stage... their juvi months/years... will cause
them to be stunted which will lead to excessive stress and lower their
immune system making them more prone to diseases/parasites. You may be
seeing this already. Further, those fish will likely attempt to kill each
other in their quest for survival in the tank.

Even though your basic chemistry may be showing up OK, you need to keep an
eye on your KH and GH and do frequent 25% PWC's to remove the things we
cannot test for like hormones, etc., which the fish excrete and will build
up in the undersized tank much quicker than a proper sized tank. If you can
do twice weekly 25% PWC's, you could help keep them from being stunted and
stressed while you look around for a much larger tank... probably in the
100G range as a minimum sized tank for the three fish.

You could also run something like Purigen by Seachem as a chemical
filtration media which will help remove some of the stuff between PWC's.
Purigen is rechargeable using bleach and is much more effective than
activated carbon.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Glen
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 12:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HITH or spiked by a pleco?

Hello everyone,

Today I noticed my tiger oscar all of a sudden has flaking skin on the top
of its head and on its left side. I'm wondering if this is "hole in the
head" starting or evidence of a defensive struggle.
How do I tell the difference?

Yesterday, I introduced a bristlenose pleco into the tank. I noticed Ms
Oscar making numerous attempts to investigate and get a little too close,
which my BN would have none of. I saw the pleco flair out its fins and swipe
its tail a few times to shoo away the inquisitive tank mate when cornered.

As background, it is a 29 gallon tank with a 3" tiger oscar and a 2"
jack dempsey and now a 2" bristlenose. About 6 various plants. I realize the
tank is too small for the long term but it is what I can handle now. Numbers
always read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and around 7.6 pH. I just did a
30% water change yesterday and added a little Flourish iron supplement for
the plants.

I have raised the temperature to about 80 (normally 76) and added aquarium
salt at the rate of one tablespoon per 5 gallons.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Glen


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23910 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: Websites worth visiting
My own blog... :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ro
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Websites worth visiting


Hello group, I'm making a blog about aquarium websites and I'm runing out of
sites I know are worth visiting. If you could tell me about a few sites that
you have visited and you think have some thing extra or have good content
please let me know.

Ro
http://tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com/

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23911 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/10/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Well, your tanks should be close to your tap pH and if you do weekly or
frequent PWC's, the tank pH should never get that much lower than your tap.
Of course, you should establish your tap water baseline (see article in my
blog) and as long as you are doing small enough PWC's to where you are not
drastically changing the pH, it should not matter.

This is why I advise people to do 25% PWC's or less, as needed (I do weekly
25% PWC's on my tanks). When doing large PWC's 50% or more, it can change
the water chemistry and temperature too much, too fast. It's better for the
fish to do more frequent and smaller 25% PWC's.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 12:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly


I have a python, but it only gets used on one tank. The other 34 tanks I
will not put water directly out of the tap. As soon as I can move this tank
with the other 34 it will not be used on it either.

pH can crash if the water is buffered. You add this high pH water and your
fish "may" be at a lower pH. Then 24 hours later it crashes to a lower pH.
Hard on the fish.

I use a 55 gallon tank as a holding tank where I let water sit for 24 hours
and treat for chloramines and run an air stone.

Mike

In a message dated 9/10/2007 3:47:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wilderness_girl_22@... <mailto:wilderness_girl_22%40msn.com> writes:

Just put your dechlor directly into your tank and run the water in using
your python.

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com
<http://www.aol.com>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23912 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
Ah but the Python works great if your fish like the water exactly as it
comes out of the tap! African cichlids here, and well water (no
chloramines).



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly




I have a python, but it only gets used on one tank. The other 34 tanks I
will not put water directly out of the tap. As soon as I can move this tank
with the other 34 it will not be used on it either.

pH can crash if the water is buffered. You add this high pH water and your
fish "may" be at a lower pH. Then 24 hours later it crashes to a lower pH.
Hard on the fish.

I use a 55 gallon tank as a holding tank where I let water sit for 24 hours
and treat for chloramines and run an air stone.

Mike

In a message dated 9/10/2007 3:47:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wilderness_girl_ <mailto:wilderness_girl_22%40msn.com> 22@... writes:

Just put your dechlor directly into your tank and run the water in using
your python.

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23913 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly
We have only chlorine in the water and I have been usung untreated tap water
for years with no ill effects.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 4:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly



Ah but the Python works great if your fish like the water exactly as it
comes out of the tap! African cichlids here, and well water (no
chloramines).

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: never slave over a large tank again/kelly

I have a python, but it only gets used on one tank. The other 34 tanks I
will not put water directly out of the tap. As soon as I can move this tank
with the other 34 it will not be used on it either.

pH can crash if the water is buffered. You add this high pH water and your
fish "may" be at a lower pH. Then 24 hours later it crashes to a lower pH.
Hard on the fish.

I use a 55 gallon tank as a holding tank where I let water sit for 24 hours
and treat for chloramines and run an air stone.

Mike

In a message dated 9/10/2007 3:47:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
wilderness_girl_ <mailto:wilderness_girl_22%40msn.com> 22@...
<mailto:22%40msn.com> writes:

Just put your dechlor directly into your tank and run the water in using
your python.

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23914 From: Glen Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
Thanks Lenny for the good advice. I'll step up the water changes to
twice weekly and add purigen in a filter bag.

Anyone able to describe the difference in appearance between HITH
and an abrasion? I'd like to know if my girl is sick or just banged
up.

Since friendly discussion is educational for everyone, I'll give you
some of my reasoning so far and see what everyone thinks.

I bought an established 15 gallon tank which had 7 fish in it: these
two cichlids plus five little 1" cichlids. I bought the 29 gal,
fishless cycled it, and put the oscar and the jack in the bigger
tank so everyone would have more room. I added extra filtration to
both tanks and planted the 29 gal before the fish arrived. I added
rocks to both tanks to create a variety of places to hide.

The 29 gal has 2 HOB filters plus a powerhead on top of a sponge
filter. The 15 gal has a HOB filter, a air powered sponge filter
and the existing undergravel filter. The routine has been once
weekly PWC's and twice weekly water tests.

I added the pleco in with the oscar and jack dempsey to help with
the algae and as a scavenger. I consider the 29gal an intermediary
step until a bigger tank is possible.

Thanks,
Glen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You need to work on a MUCH bigger tank immediately. Why did you
add another fish to what you knew was an already undersized tank?
>
> Keeping BIG, aggressive fish in an undersized tank while they are
in their most formative and growing stage... their juvi
months/years... will cause them to be stunted which will lead to
excessive stress and lower their immune system making them more
prone to diseases/parasites. You may be seeing this already.
Further, those fish will likely attempt to kill each other in their
quest for survival in the tank.
>
> Even though your basic chemistry may be showing up OK, you need to
keep an eye on your KH and GH and do frequent 25% PWC's to remove
the things we cannot test for like hormones, etc., which the fish
excrete and will build up in the undersized tank much quicker than a
proper sized tank. If you can do twice weekly 25% PWC's, you could
help keep them from being stunted and stressed while you look around
for a much larger tank... probably in the 100G range as a minimum
sized tank for the three fish.
>
> You could also run something like Purigen by Seachem as a chemical
> filtration media which will help remove some of the stuff between
PWC's. Purigen is rechargeable using bleach and is much more
effective than activated carbon.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Glen
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 12:26 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HITH or spiked by a pleco?
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Today I noticed my tiger oscar all of a sudden has flaking skin on
the top
> of its head and on its left side. I'm wondering if this is "hole
in the
> head" starting or evidence of a defensive struggle.
> How do I tell the difference?
>
> Yesterday, I introduced a bristlenose pleco into the tank. I
noticed Ms
> Oscar making numerous attempts to investigate and get a little too
close,
> which my BN would have none of. I saw the pleco flair out its fins
and swipe
> its tail a few times to shoo away the inquisitive tank mate when
cornered.
>
> As background, it is a 29 gallon tank with a 3" tiger oscar and a
2"
> jack dempsey and now a 2" bristlenose. About 6 various plants. I
realize the
> tank is too small for the long term but it is what I can handle
now. Numbers
> always read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and around 7.6 pH. I
just did a
> 30% water change yesterday and added a little Flourish iron
supplement for
> the plants.
>
> I have raised the temperature to about 80 (normally 76) and added
aquarium
> salt at the rate of one tablespoon per 5 gallons.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Glen
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date:
9/10/2007
> 5:43 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23915 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: New member with question
Thanks so much. mabie if i find a store who can feed them I can try again.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 12:41:09 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New member with question

I am really sorry to hear about your fish dying, Melanie. Good luck
with your search for a decent aqaurium store. And I'm sure that if
you really like them, you will successfully raise a Ghost Knife
someday. :)



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tundra@... wrote:
>
> I want to thank each and every one of you from the bottom of my
heart but unfortuntly he died this morning. I even went back twice to
the store and begged them to show me how they feed the last one in
there tank and they wouldnt. I wont be getting any more black knife
fish even though I love them so much. You all are right. I wont be
getting any more fish at petsmart. I just bought this little white
fish and it was so agressive it killed the black one of its own kind.
This is the third time something like this has happened with
petsmarts fish. I have 12 little yellow baby fish i guess i can fill
the tank with. Not sure what else I will get to replace the black
knife fish though. he was so cool looking. Thank you all so much for
your help!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23916 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?
After you bought/saved the 15G cichlid tank (OMG!!!), did you spay, neuter
or shoot the seller to prevent them from procreating or expanding their gene
pool? That's pitiful for someone to have those fish in a 15G tank. It
would have been better for you to explain that from the beginning. I've
been in the same boat. Back in 2005, right before Katrina, I saved a 10G
tank with 9 fish in it... including a common pleco and two Gouramis... in
fact NONE of the fish in the 10G should have been in there. I split them up
into a 20G and another 10G that I had while I was setting up my 65G and they
at least got to live out the rest of their lives in decent homes. I never
could upgrade to an even larger tank since Katrina changed everything down
here. I rehomed the pleco a few months ago since he was getting too big for
my 65G tank also.

If you are going to try and keep them, which I'm presuming you are, start
going to your local FreeCycle group every day and look for bigger tanks and
setups that people might be giving away. You can also post that you are
looking for such equipment. Every day that you keep them in an undersized
tank will rob them of part of their life.

As far as the HITH, I would go to Cichlid-Forums.com and peruse their health
sections for lots of pictures or just do a Google Image search of 'HITH
Oscar' and look at the images for comparison. Maybe if you could post some
pictures, someone could look at them but I think it would be very difficult
to try and diagnose HITH without seeing an image.... or taking a scraping
for scoping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Glen
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?

Thanks Lenny for the good advice. I'll step up the water changes to twice
weekly and add purigen in a filter bag.

Anyone able to describe the difference in appearance between HITH and an
abrasion? I'd like to know if my girl is sick or just banged up.

Since friendly discussion is educational for everyone, I'll give you some of
my reasoning so far and see what everyone thinks.

I bought an established 15 gallon tank which had 7 fish in it: these two
cichlids plus five little 1" cichlids. I bought the 29 gal, fishless cycled
it, and put the oscar and the jack in the bigger tank so everyone would have
more room. I added extra filtration to both tanks and planted the 29 gal
before the fish arrived. I added rocks to both tanks to create a variety of
places to hide.

The 29 gal has 2 HOB filters plus a powerhead on top of a sponge filter. The
15 gal has a HOB filter, a air powered sponge filter and the existing
undergravel filter. The routine has been once weekly PWC's and twice weekly
water tests.

I added the pleco in with the oscar and jack dempsey to help with the algae
and as a scavenger. I consider the 29gal an intermediary step until a bigger
tank is possible.

Thanks,
Glen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You need to work on a MUCH bigger tank immediately. Why did you
add another fish to what you knew was an already undersized tank?
>
> Keeping BIG, aggressive fish in an undersized tank while they are
in their most formative and growing stage... their juvi months/years... will
cause them to be stunted which will lead to excessive stress and lower their
immune system making them more prone to diseases/parasites. You may be
seeing this already.
Further, those fish will likely attempt to kill each other in their quest
for survival in the tank.
>
> Even though your basic chemistry may be showing up OK, you need to
keep an eye on your KH and GH and do frequent 25% PWC's to remove the things
we cannot test for like hormones, etc., which the fish excrete and will
build up in the undersized tank much quicker than a proper sized tank. If
you can do twice weekly 25% PWC's, you could help keep them from being
stunted and stressed while you look around for a much larger tank...
probably in the 100G range as a minimum sized tank for the three fish.
>
> You could also run something like Purigen by Seachem as a chemical
> filtration media which will help remove some of the stuff between
PWC's. Purigen is rechargeable using bleach and is much more effective than
activated carbon.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Glen
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 12:26 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HITH or spiked by a pleco?
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> Today I noticed my tiger oscar all of a sudden has flaking skin on
the top
> of its head and on its left side. I'm wondering if this is "hole
in the
> head" starting or evidence of a defensive struggle.
> How do I tell the difference?
>
> Yesterday, I introduced a bristlenose pleco into the tank. I
noticed Ms
> Oscar making numerous attempts to investigate and get a little too
close,
> which my BN would have none of. I saw the pleco flair out its fins
and swipe
> its tail a few times to shoo away the inquisitive tank mate when
cornered.
>
> As background, it is a 29 gallon tank with a 3" tiger oscar and a
2"
> jack dempsey and now a 2" bristlenose. About 6 various plants. I
realize the
> tank is too small for the long term but it is what I can handle
now. Numbers
> always read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate and around 7.6 pH. I
just did a
> 30% water change yesterday and added a little Flourish iron
supplement for
> the plants.
>
> I have raised the temperature to about 80 (normally 76) and added
aquarium
> salt at the rate of one tablespoon per 5 gallons.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Glen
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23917 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Can some one tell me?
Hello,

I have attached 2 pictures. My first question is why does my orange fish look like it is going to explode? Is it eating to much? My other one looks normal.
My second question is what kind of fish is my yellow fish? I have searched the internet and cant find a picture of this fish anywhere.  I have 12 little babies and have no idea what they are.
Thanks so much,
Melanie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23918 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?
i dont know why the pictrues didnt attach. i will try again. Hopefully it will work this time.
----- Original Message -----
From: tundra@...
To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 11:30:26 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one tell me?









Hello,

I have attached 2 pictures. My first question is why does my orange fish look like it is going to explode? Is it eating to much? My other one looks normal.
My second question is what kind of fish is my yellow fish? I have searched the internet and cant find a picture of this fish anywhere.  I have 12 little babies and have no idea what they are.
Thanks so much,
Melanie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23919 From: harry perry Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
You will have to post the photos in the photo section. The group is not set up to receive attachments due to virus potential.

Harry

tundra@... wrote: i dont know why the pictrues didnt attach. i will try again. Hopefully it will work this time.
----- Original Message -----
From: tundra@...
To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 11:30:26 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one tell me?

Hello,

I have attached 2 pictures. My first question is why does my orange fish look like it is going to explode? Is it eating to much? My other one looks normal.
My second question is what kind of fish is my yellow fish? I have searched the internet and cant find a picture of this fish anywhere. I have 12 little babies and have no idea what they are.
Thanks so much,
Melanie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23920 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
Oh ok!! thanks for letting me know!
----- Original Message -----
From: "harry perry" <harryfisherman@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 11:52:17 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Can some one tell me?/Melanie







You will have to post the photos in the photo section. The group is not set up to receive attachments due to virus potential.

Harry

tundra@... wrote: i dont know why the pictrues didnt attach. i will try again. Hopefully it will work this time.
----- Original Message -----
From: tundra@...
To: "AquaticLife" < AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com >
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 11:30:26 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one tell me?

Hello,

I have attached 2 pictures. My first question is why does my orange fish look like it is going to explode? Is it eating to much? My other one looks normal.
My second question is what kind of fish is my yellow fish? I have searched the internet and cant find a picture of this fish anywhere. I have 12 little babies and have no idea what they are.
Thanks so much,
Melanie

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23921 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one tell me?/Melanie
Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
helping.:)


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, harry perry <harryfisherman@...>
wrote:
>
> You will have to post the photos in the photo section. The group is
not set up to receive attachments due to virus potential.
>
> Harry
>
> tundra@... wrote: i dont know why the
pictrues didnt attach. i will try again. Hopefully it will work this
time.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: tundra@...
> To: "AquaticLife" <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 11:30:26 AM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one tell me?
>
> Hello,
>
> I have attached 2 pictures. My first question is why does my
orange fish look like it is going to explode? Is it eating to much?
My other one looks normal.
> My second question is what kind of fish is my yellow fish? I have
searched the internet and cant find a picture of this fish
anywhere. I have 12 little babies and have no idea what they are.
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your
story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23922 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Free Tanks and Equipment (was -Re: HITH or spiked by a pleco?)
Craigslist.com is great too, the week before school started there was
a complete 100gallon reef tank with all the fish and equipment given
away because they wanted it out of the classroom since the teacher
was no longer working there.

I personally have recieved some great fish and plants for free as
well as really inexpensive (next to nothing) from craigslist posts as
well as FreeCycle.

There are some great deals in the classifieds also, I got a complete
100 gallon TruVu setup with everything except fish for $200.00, it
even had a Fluval 403 that is still working.

Garage sells take a lot more time to find fishy stuff but they are
good sources as well.

The LFS that was here until recently re-sold used equipment at
bargain prices also.

Hope that helps

--- <GoldLenny@...> wrote:

... start going to your local FreeCycle group every day and look for
bigger tanks and setups that people might be giving away. You can
also post that you are looking for such equipment....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23923 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Fish I.D. / Melanie
in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom, look
like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross breed
if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no male
present).

The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
interesting but I do not know what it is

The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but it
too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@...> wrote:
>
> Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> helping.:)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23924 From: William Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
If you could take a picture of the fish in the left upper corner
more from the side we might be able to ID it better but it loks like
some type of gourami to me.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom,
look
> like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
breed
> if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no male
> present).
>
> The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> interesting but I do not know what it is
>
> The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but
it
> too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@> wrote:
> >
> > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> > helping.:)
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23925 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Is that a Betta?

The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left of the 2nd pic

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/4976?
b=2&m=f&o=2


I've not had any for a long time but it could be, maybe even a
Female - not sure

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom,
look
> like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
breed
> if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no male
> present).
>
> The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> interesting but I do not know what it is
>
> The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but
it
> too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@> wrote:
> >
> > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> > helping.:)
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23926 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
thanks so much. I have 2 female betas in there and 2 guppys then the
yellow fish that had 12 babies(the other yellow one passed away the
day after i brought it home.)Then i have the 2 platys. One platys is
much bigger than the other one. i wasnt sure if it was pregnant or
what. It is just so much bigger than the other one. Oh i have a all
white Molly too but it killed my black Molly so it is in a tank all
by itself. When the yellow babies get big enough i want to put them
in with the white Molly but I dont want the Molly to kill them. Thats
why i want to research and see what kind of fish i can put in with
them. Thanks so much.
Melanie


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™ <aquaticlifegroup@...>
wrote:
>
> in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom,
look
> like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
breed
> if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no male
> present).
>
> The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> interesting but I do not know what it is
>
> The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but
it
> too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@> wrote:
> >
> > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> > helping.:)
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23927 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
yep i have 2 female bettas in there, 2 guppys,2 orange platys and 1
yellow fish i have no idea what it is but it had 12 babies that are
in another tank.

In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™ <aquaticlifegroup@...>
wrote:
>
>
> Is that a Betta?
>
> The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left of the 2nd pic
>
> http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/view/4976?
> b=2&m=f&o=2
>
>
> I've not had any for a long time but it could be, maybe even a
> Female - not sure
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
> <aquaticlifegroup@> wrote:
> >
> > in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom,
> look
> > like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
> breed
> > if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no
male
> > present).
> >
> > The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> > interesting but I do not know what it is
> >
> > The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but
> it
> > too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> > > helping.:)
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23928 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Ok i will try again. I will go take a picture of the yellow fish
again.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...>
wrote:
>
> If you could take a picture of the fish in the left upper corner
> more from the side we might be able to ID it better but it loks
like
> some type of gourami to me.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
> <aquaticlifegroup@> wrote:
> >
> > in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and bottom,
> look
> > like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
> breed
> > if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no
male
> > present).
> >
> > The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> > interesting but I do not know what it is
> >
> > The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure but
> it
> > too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks for
> > > helping.:)
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23929 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
I added 3 more pictures of the yellow fish. Hopefully someone can let
me know what kind it is.
Thanks,
Melanie
Oh there is another album that is called melanies and that one isnt
mine. Melanies Album is mine.



In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@...> wrote:
>
> Ok i will try again. I will go take a picture of the yellow fish
> again.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@>
> wrote:
> >
> > If you could take a picture of the fish in the left upper corner
> > more from the side we might be able to ID it better but it loks
> like
> > some type of gourami to me.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
> > <aquaticlifegroup@> wrote:
> > >
> > > in the 2nd pic, the 2 orange and black in the middle and
bottom,
> > look
> > > like Female Platies or Swordtails (very similar and will cross
> > breed
> > > if mixed, they will even change sexes to breed if there is no
> male
> > > present).
> > >
> > > The Fancy finned lighter color fish in the top left is very
> > > interesting but I do not know what it is
> > >
> > > The 1st pic with just the 1 fish is too dark to tell for sure
but
> > it
> > > too could be a Female Platy or Swordtail.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "scoobyd559" <tundra@>
wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Ok all done. both pictures are under melanies album. Thanks
for
> > > > helping.:)
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23930 From: gracefullnature52 Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
appears to be a Female "Twin Bar" Platy variety
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23931 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie
Thanks so much. I had no idea. I will do a search and see if they are nice fish. I have 12 babies that i am not sure which tank to put them in when they get older.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "gracefullnature52" <meg_arm@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 1:32:18 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish I.D. / Melanie







appears to be a Female "Twin Bar" Platy variety



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23932 From: Jim Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Hi Everyone,

I have been cycling my 20 gallon fish tank for about three and a half
weeks now with three Giant Danios. The ammonia level is now (finally)
at 0 ppm (mg/L), which is the most ideal reading for the ammonia level.
The problem is that the nitrite level is at almost 10.0 ppm (mg/L),
which is the highest (most dangerous level) for the fish. Is this an
indication that I have done something horribly wrong, or is it an
indication that the tank is at the end of its "first" cycle? I am
preparing to perform an emergency PWC, but will not perform the PWC if
someone tells me that things are alright. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23933 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
When you do a test on your supply (tap ) water what does it show.




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
You should do a series of 25% PWC's, one every couple of hours until the
nitrite level is down below 1.0ppm. The fish actually slowly acclimate to
"bad" water so it needs to be made good slowly so it does not shock them
with a too drastic change in parameters. Also, doing a large PWC can change
the pH and temperature too much, too fast which can put the fish into shock
also.

You are in the middle of the nitrogen cycle and you should have been testing
your tank daily for ammonia and nitrites so that you could have done
sufficient PWC's to keep the nitrite levels below 1.0ppm.

Have you added salt to the tank by any chance? Salt actually protects fish
from nitrite poisoning but you can't add it now. You have to do the series
of PWC's to get it down to below 1.0ppm, then you can add just a pinch of
salt to the tank (diluted in water first) and that will protect the fish
from further nitrite poisoning as you continue cycling with fish.

This is why we preach over and over NOT to cycle with fish. There is a good
chance that the fish will suffer permanent damage from such high nitrite
levels.

Remember that even after you fully cycle the tank for the danios, if you
decide to add more fish, you will have to go through the cycling process all
over again since you will not have enough nitrifying bacteria in the tank to
handle the added bioload. Of course, it won't be as bad or as long since
it's just a matter of the N-bacteria growing their colony size but you will
still need to do daily testing to make sure the tank is safe for the old and
new fish.

For others reading this, PLEASE fishless cycle your tank(s) using plain
ammonia so you don't have to put some poor fish through the arduous and
often times torturous cycling process. I know some people get misled by
their local fish store or pet store and end up setting up a tank and putting
fish in it but for everyone who is on or has access to the internet, there
simply is no reason to listen to stupid-a$$ed pet store employees or read
out-dated books any longer (I just bought two old books at a garage sale so
nobody else would buy them since they had such horrible information...
they're landfill now!). Of course, if one has access to a healthy fish tank
that is fully cycled, then they can take a small piece of filter media and
seed their filter system on the new tank which will make the tank safe for a
small bioload or quicken the fishless cycle so you can add a full bioload in
a very short time.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 6:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level

Hi Everyone,

I have been cycling my 20 gallon fish tank for about three and a half weeks
now with three Giant Danios. The ammonia level is now (finally) at 0 ppm
(mg/L), which is the most ideal reading for the ammonia level.
The problem is that the nitrite level is at almost 10.0 ppm (mg/L), which is
the highest (most dangerous level) for the fish. Is this an indication that
I have done something horribly wrong, or is it an indication that the tank
is at the end of its "first" cycle? I am preparing to perform an emergency
PWC, but will not perform the PWC if someone tells me that things are
alright. Thanks!

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.14/999 - Release Date: 9/10/2007
5:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23935 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/11/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Jim,

You have passed the first part of the cycle. You should now start to see
the nitrites go down as the bacteria needed to consume that grow their
colonies. As Lenny pointed out, nitrites can be very harmful to fish. If
you do not have any kosher salt or aquarium salt available, use table
salt and add about a tablespoon to your tank, slowly. It would be better
if you dissolve it in water before adding to the tank. This will help
protect the fish from the nitrite.

A partial water change daily, at this point, would not be harmful,
though it will draw out the time for the cycle to complete. Add about a
teaspoon of salt for every five gallons of changed water.

Save yourself some money and buy some kosher salt, sometimes in your
store labeled canning salt. It will also be helpful in other situations
you may face while keeping fish, and can be used as table salt in a
pinch <g>.

Once your nitrites have gone down, you'll start to see your nitrates to
rise, and you can consider that yor cycle has finished. Regular water
changes and the addition of live plants will help control your nitrate
level.

When you are ready to add new fish, you will notice that your tank will
go through what is known as a mini cycle where the ammonia will rise
slightly, then the nitrites, just as you are experiencing now. This is
your bacterial colonies adjusting to the new load, and should not take
as long as the initial cycle. So only add a fish or two at a time to
minimize this, and its effects.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level

Hi Everyone,

I have been cycling my 20 gallon fish tank for about three and a half
weeks now with three Giant Danios. The ammonia level is now (finally)
at 0 ppm (mg/L), which is the most ideal reading for the ammonia level.
The problem is that the nitrite level is at almost 10.0 ppm (mg/L),
which is the highest (most dangerous level) for the fish. Is this an
indication that I have done something horribly wrong, or is it an
indication that the tank is at the end of its "first" cycle? I am
preparing to perform an emergency PWC, but will not perform the PWC if
someone tells me that things are alright. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23936 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: New tank disaster!
I have a 60 gallon tank. i am using 2 substrates. one of them is
fluorite sand, the fine black one. usually fluorite doesn't need to be
washed, but this sand has a lot of dust. I didn't know about this and
I added water. now the whole tank is so blurry....
what should I so? it got fish in it... I used 50% established tank
water and 50% treated water
Help :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23937 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Last week my female amano shrimp gave birth to babies and they all
died. amazingly w/ in a week, the shrimp peeled the old shell and
having eggs again!
I am now putting it w/ 3 males in a 10 gallon tank w/ some java moss
and natella grass. I put one table spoon in the tank. filter (w/
sponge covered), air pump heater at 80 degree. any suggestion?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23938 From: gorsford Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: how can i grow green hair algae and get rid of the blue and brown a
as topic thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23939 From: Alex See Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
i mean *Najas guadalupensis grass, *not natella

On 9/12/07, gorsford <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> Last week my female amano shrimp gave birth to babies and they all
> died. amazingly w/ in a week, the shrimp peeled the old shell and
> having eggs again!
> I am now putting it w/ 3 males in a 10 gallon tank w/ some java moss
> and natella grass. I put one table spoon in the tank. filter (w/
> sponge covered), air pump heater at 80 degree. any suggestion?
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23940 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
this sand has a lot of dust. I didn't know about this and
I added water. now the whole tank is so blurry....
what should I so? it got fish in it... I used 50% established tank
water and 50% treated water
Help :(

I had the same discovery the first time I used the fluorite. My suggestion
is to get the fish out and do multiple water changes until you get the
clarity you want. Then put a heavier gravel on the fluorite. Get your
filter running again as soon as you get the tank set up the way you want it
and it should clear up in a couple of hours (depending on your filtration
system, I have two Fluvol 305 canisters on my 55 gal. tanks). Once the
water clears then put the fish back. I hope this helps.

DM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23941 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite Level
Steve & Lenny,

Thanks so much for the great advice and help! I will
definitely do what you both suggest.

Lenny - I have been performing regular PWCs since I
noticed the spike in the nitrite level in the tank,
per your suggestion yesterday. This morning, before I
went to work, I took a reading, and the nitrite level
was still high. I plan to perform another PWC this
afternoon. I will keep you all posted as to how things
progress. This is definitely a good learning
experience. Thanks again, and thanks to everyone else
who has contributed to this posting!

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> Jim,
>
> You have passed the first part of the cycle. You
> should now start to see
> the nitrites go down as the bacteria needed to
> consume that grow their
> colonies. As Lenny pointed out, nitrites can be very
> harmful to fish. If
> you do not have any kosher salt or aquarium salt
> available, use table
> salt and add about a tablespoon to your tank,
> slowly. It would be better
> if you dissolve it in water before adding to the
> tank. This will help
> protect the fish from the nitrite.
>
> A partial water change daily, at this point, would
> not be harmful,
> though it will draw out the time for the cycle to
> complete. Add about a
> teaspoon of salt for every five gallons of changed
> water.
>
> Save yourself some money and buy some kosher salt,
> sometimes in your
> store labeled canning salt. It will also be helpful
> in other situations
> you may face while keeping fish, and can be used as
> table salt in a
> pinch <g>.
>
> Once your nitrites have gone down, you'll start to
> see your nitrates to
> rise, and you can consider that yor cycle has
> finished. Regular water
> changes and the addition of live plants will help
> control your nitrate
> level.
>
> When you are ready to add new fish, you will notice
> that your tank will
> go through what is known as a mini cycle where the
> ammonia will rise
> slightly, then the nitrites, just as you are
> experiencing now. This is
> your bacterial colonies adjusting to the new load,
> and should not take
> as long as the initial cycle. So only add a fish or
> two at a time to
> minimize this, and its effects.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:00 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Ammonia Level vs. Nitrite
> Level
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I have been cycling my 20 gallon fish tank for about
> three and a half
> weeks now with three Giant Danios. The ammonia level
> is now (finally)
> at 0 ppm (mg/L), which is the most ideal reading for
> the ammonia level.
> The problem is that the nitrite level is at almost
> 10.0 ppm (mg/L),
> which is the highest (most dangerous level) for the
> fish. Is this an
> indication that I have done something horribly
> wrong, or is it an
> indication that the tank is at the end of its
> "first" cycle? I am
> preparing to perform an emergency PWC, but will not
> perform the PWC if
> someone tells me that things are alright. Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 23942 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: What do you suggest
I want to add 1 or 2 more fish to my tank. But with the luck I am
having I keep getting agressive fish. I want something that has color
and is a nice community fish. I have 2 females betta, 2 guppys,1 twin
bar,2 platys. They all get along sence i took out the Molly. Any
suggestions of a nice pretty fish that will get along with everyone.
Thanks,
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23943 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
What size tank do you have?

To find out compatible fish, go to http://fish.mongabay.com and look at the
profiles for each of your fish. Mongabay has a section on each profile
about compatible tank mates so hopefully that will help guide you in your
selection of other fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 9:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest

I want to add 1 or 2 more fish to my tank. But with the luck I am having I
keep getting agressive fish. I want something that has color and is a nice
community fish. I have 2 females betta, 2 guppys,1 twin
bar,2 platys. They all get along sence i took out the Molly. Any suggestions
of a nice pretty fish that will get along with everyone.
Thanks,
Melanie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007
5:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23944 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: changing substrate
I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now
it is blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I
done this then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2
hob filters running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I
plan on adding the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in
pantyhose and place them in the tank for help in seeding the gravel
with bacteria. Would this cut down on the losses that will happen. I
don't want to lose any of my fish. Does the gravel hold 100% of the
bacteria? I thought the filters held the majority of the bacteria
along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23945 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
I have a 20 gallon tank that i want to add 2 more fish too then i have another 20 gallon tank that only has the one agressive molly in it.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 11:40:37 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest

What size tank do you have?

To find out compatible fish, go to http://fish.mongabay.com and look at the
profiles for each of your fish. Mongabay has a section on each profile
about compatible tank mates so hopefully that will help guide you in your
selection of other fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 9:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest

I want to add 1 or 2 more fish to my tank. But with the luck I am having I
keep getting agressive fish. I want something that has color and is a nice
community fish. I have 2 females betta, 2 guppys,1 twin
bar,2 platys. They all get along sence i took out the Molly. Any suggestions
of a nice pretty fish that will get along with everyone.
Thanks,
Melanie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007
5:46 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23946 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
The filters, ornaments, etc. do hold quite a bit of bacteria and I think your idea of seeding is a good one. The only thing I might do differently is to do this in gradual steps instead of all at once because it might be stressful on your fish.
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: pearlysmith2000@...
Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 15:48:19 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate




















I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now

it is blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I

done this then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2

hob filters running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I

plan on adding the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in

pantyhose and place them in the tank for help in seeding the gravel

with bacteria. Would this cut down on the losses that will happen. I

don't want to lose any of my fish. Does the gravel hold 100% of the

bacteria? I thought the filters held the majority of the bacteria

along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks
























_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever � Get MORE with Windows Live� Hotmail�. NOW with 5GB storage.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23947 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
I'm not sure why they are saying you would lose all of your fish... in fact,
that shows signs of your LFS being completely ignorant of fish keeping, like
90% of pet stores seem to be... so please take any other advice they give
you with a grain of gravel (pardon the pun.. lol).

The filter media holds the majority of the nitrifying bacteria in an HOB
system... but even if you had a UGF, you could still change out the gravel
without losing all of your fish. There are other beneficial and not-so
beneficial bacteria's that also live in the gravel so you do need to take
care so you do not disrupt your ecosystem too much but people change out
their substrates all the time without losing all of their fish or even any
of their fish.

Will you be removing the fish while you are doing this change out or keeping
the fish in the tank? If you remove the fish to a large rubbermaid type
tub, just use some or most of your existing tank water and just put your two
HOB's on the tub and the fish will be fine in there while you revamp their
tank.

What kind of sub-substrate do you have in your planted tank or is simply all
blue colored gravel? If it is all just the blue gravel, you would first
want to vacuum the gravel thoroughly (several times) until you have removed
nearly all of the detritus from the gravel. Then you can use a small
plastic scoop (I use a spatula and/or slotted spoon) and start removing the
gravel and putting it in the pantyhose. Maybe aim for 5-10 pantyhose
packages of your existing gravel.

Will you be going with a true planted tank substrate or just going with pea
gravel?

After you've made the changes, you can then add all or most of the water
from the tub back to the tank and move your fish at the same time. Then
move the HOB's back to the tank and voila!... you are done and your fish
should all still be alive.

If you are doing this while keeping the fish in the tank, then it will be a
much slower process. After you bag up the old substrate, you will have to
rinse the new substrate really, really good and then while it's still in the
colander, slowly sink the colander into your tank and slowly pour out the
new substrate moving things around until you have the new substrate in
place.

Over the coming weeks, you can remove one pack of your old gravel each week
until it's all removed. You should have minimal disruptions to your
ecosystem this way.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 10:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now it is
blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I done this
then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2 hob filters
running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I plan on adding
the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in pantyhose and place them in
the tank for help in seeding the gravel with bacteria. Would this cut down
on the losses that will happen. I don't want to lose any of my fish. Does
the gravel hold 100% of the bacteria? I thought the filters held the
majority of the bacteria along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007
5:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23948 From: William Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
When Amano shrimp eggs hatch they need to go into salt water to grow.
They go through several stages in salt water and when the finally get
large enough they will go back into freshwater.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> Last week my female amano shrimp gave birth to babies and they all
> died. amazingly w/ in a week, the shrimp peeled the old shell and
> having eggs again!
> I am now putting it w/ 3 males in a 10 gallon tank w/ some java moss
> and natella grass. I put one table spoon in the tank. filter (w/
> sponge covered), air pump heater at 80 degree. any suggestion?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23949 From: Julie Quelch Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
Hi melanie,

I know how you feel,I have had quite a few aggressive fish,i,ve just had to
take a Danio out of my tank because it was attacking my guppies,and thats
without all the other aggressive fish i have had along the way,I have found
Honey grarmis (spelling) are nice,they are peaceful and very laid back
fish,they are also very pretty too.Good luck with finding other fish.

hugs
julie
xx


>From: "scoobyd559" <tundra@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest
>Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 14:51:04 -0000
>
>I want to add 1 or 2 more fish to my tank. But with the luck I am
>having I keep getting agressive fish. I want something that has color
>and is a nice community fish. I have 2 females betta, 2 guppys,1 twin
>bar,2 platys. They all get along sence i took out the Molly. Any
>suggestions of a nice pretty fish that will get along with everyone.
>Thanks,
>Melanie
>

_________________________________________________________________
Get Pimped! FREE emoticon packs from Windows Live -
http://www.pimpmylive.co.uk
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23950 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Thanks for the great advice on how to do this. They had told me that
the gravel was the only place the bacteria would be in the tank. The
sad part is more than one told me this same story.

Will you be removing the fish while you are doing this change out or
keeping the fish in the tank?

I had planned on leaving the fish in but I still may take the fish
out.

What kind of sub-substrate do you have in your planted tank or is
simply all blue colored gravel?

Right now it is all just plain blue gravel.

Will you be going with a true planted tank substrate or just going
with pea gravel?

I had been thinking about adding a sub-substrate but can't find a
good selection anywhere near me. So I was going to use plant spikes
in the new gravel.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure why they are saying you would lose all of your
fish... in fact,
> that shows signs of your LFS being completely ignorant of fish
keeping, like
> 90% of pet stores seem to be... so please take any other advice
they give
> you with a grain of gravel (pardon the pun.. lol).
>
> The filter media holds the majority of the nitrifying bacteria in
an HOB
> system... but even if you had a UGF, you could still change out
the gravel
> without losing all of your fish. There are other beneficial and
not-so
> beneficial bacteria's that also live in the gravel so you do need
to take
> care so you do not disrupt your ecosystem too much but people
change out
> their substrates all the time without losing all of their fish or
even any
> of their fish.
>
> Will you be removing the fish while you are doing this change out
or keeping
> the fish in the tank? If you remove the fish to a large
rubbermaid type
> tub, just use some or most of your existing tank water and just
put your two
> HOB's on the tub and the fish will be fine in there while you
revamp their
> tank.
>
> What kind of sub-substrate do you have in your planted tank or is
simply all
> blue colored gravel? If it is all just the blue gravel, you would
first
> want to vacuum the gravel thoroughly (several times) until you
have removed
> nearly all of the detritus from the gravel. Then you can use a
small
> plastic scoop (I use a spatula and/or slotted spoon) and start
removing the
> gravel and putting it in the pantyhose. Maybe aim for 5-10
pantyhose
> packages of your existing gravel.
>
> Will you be going with a true planted tank substrate or just going
with pea
> gravel?
>
> After you've made the changes, you can then add all or most of the
water
> from the tub back to the tank and move your fish at the same
time. Then
> move the HOB's back to the tank and voila!... you are done and
your fish
> should all still be alive.
>
> If you are doing this while keeping the fish in the tank, then it
will be a
> much slower process. After you bag up the old substrate, you will
have to
> rinse the new substrate really, really good and then while it's
still in the
> colander, slowly sink the colander into your tank and slowly pour
out the
> new substrate moving things around until you have the new
substrate in
> place.
>
> Over the coming weeks, you can remove one pack of your old gravel
each week
> until it's all removed. You should have minimal disruptions to
your
> ecosystem this way.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of friendtoallfish
> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 10:48 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate
>
> I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right
now it is
> blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I
done this
> then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2 hob
filters
> running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I plan on
adding
> the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in pantyhose and
place them in
> the tank for help in seeding the gravel with bacteria. Would this
cut down
> on the losses that will happen. I don't want to lose any of my
fish. Does
> the gravel hold 100% of the bacteria? I thought the filters held
the
> majority of the bacteria along with whatever else is in the tank.
Thanks
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date:
9/11/2007
> 5:46 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23951 From: vishwanath preetham Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: Breeding amano shrimp 2nd try!! advice please
Check this link should be of some help

http://mikes-machine.mine.nu/breeding_yamato.htm


----- Original Message ----

Last week my female amano shrimp gave birth to babies and they all
died.

amazingly w/ in a week, the shrimp peeled the old shell and
having eggs again!

I am now putting it w/ 3 males in a 10 gallon tank w/ some java moss
and natella grass.

I put one table spoon in the tank.

filter (w/sponge covered), air pump heater at 80 degree.

any suggestion?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23952 From: babyangelsdaycareabilenetx Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Hello, I just bought a 29 gallon fish tank and set it up last night.
It has decorations, fake plants, and undergravel filter, heater,
bubble stone, aqua clear water filter, 20-40 gallon air pump.
I would like to start cycling the tank but I am not sure how to do
this. Also what temperature do I need to set it on? After cycling I
would like to have mollies and cory catfish but would also like
suggestions on other fish that would work with these two. I heard that
mollies like aquarium salt so would the other fish be fine with the
salt also?

Thanks for any and all help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23953 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: What do you suggest
i just went to petsunlimited and they will be getting more black ghost knife fish. they have no problems feeding them. I am so excited to get one that will live!!

They have alot of fish and i couldnt decide which to get. There was alot of cool agressive fish so i am thinking of making new tank just for agressive fish.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Julie Quelch" <bearymad@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 1:40:54 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest







Hi melanie,

I know how you feel,I have had quite a few aggressive fish,i,ve just had to
take a Danio out of my tank because it was attacking my guppies,and thats
without all the other aggressive fish i have had along the way,I have found
Honey grarmis (spelling) are nice,they are peaceful and very laid back
fish,they are also very pretty too.Good luck with finding other fish.

hugs
julie
xx

>From: "scoobyd559" < tundra@... >
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] What do you suggest
>Date: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 14:51:04 -0000
>
>I want to add 1 or 2 more fish to my tank. But with the luck I am
>having I keep getting agressive fish. I want something that has color
>and is a nice community fish. I have 2 females betta, 2 guppys,1 twin
>bar,2 platys. They all get along sence i took out the Molly. Any
>suggestions of a nice pretty fish that will get along with everyone.
>Thanks,
>Melanie
>

__________________________________________________________
Get Pimped! FREE emoticon packs from Windows Live -
http://www.pimpmylive.co.uk



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23954 From: idgie62 Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Concgrats on the new tank!
Sounds like a good set up except for the undergravel filter. I had one
on part of my tank but I put a reverse powerhead (hooked up to push
water into the filter, not pull it through) on it after I started
reading that UG's aren't very good. I didn't install it when I set the
tank up again. The AC is plenty of filtration on the 29 and now would
be a good time to research the UG to see if you really want to keep it.

A fishless cycle is the best and most humane way to cycle a tank.
Here's one article to fishless cycling that includes 2 methods:
http://www.algone.com/fishless_cycling.php#food
I'm about to set up a new tank and will use the food method and add
lots of bio matter (used filter media and gravel from my established
tank. If you know anyone with a healthy tank ask them if you can seed
your tank from it. Remember that bacteria die quickly so get whatever
you're using to your tank as soon as possible and keep it wet.

There's an article in the Aug 2007 issue of Tropical Fish Hobbyist that
talks about mollies and salt. It says the need for salt is a myth. It's
a good article that. Add the mollies before the cories since the
mollies are hardier. If you get male and female mollies your tank will
stock itself in no time especially if the babies have lots of hiding
spots. Mollies also like a little algae so letting a bit grow on your
tank won't be a bad thing.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "babyangelsdaycareabilenetx"
<babyangelsdaycareabilenetx@...> wrote:
>
> Hello, I just bought a 29 gallon fish tank and set it up last night.
> It has decorations, fake plants, and undergravel filter, heater,
> bubble stone, aqua clear water filter, 20-40 gallon air pump.
> I would like to start cycling the tank but I am not sure how to do
> this. Also what temperature do I need to set it on? After cycling I
> would like to have mollies and cory catfish but would also like
> suggestions on other fish that would work with these two. I heard that
> mollies like aquarium salt so would the other fish be fine with the
> salt also?
>
> Thanks for any and all help!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23955 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
It all depends on the fish. I have some tanks around 82 degrees. I have
others set at 72 degrees it all depends on the fish that you will be keeping. I
agree that mollies do not need salt. I would use a hard water tank for them
though. As for the cories the usual ones you see in the pet stores you will
handle a variety of water conditions. I would look at the pet store and see what
you like and do research on those fish.



In a message dated 9/12/2007 10:56:03 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
babyangelsdaycareabilenetx@... writes:

what temperature do I need to set it on




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23956 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
You don't need to buy a planted tank substrate at your LFS or pet store.
This site http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/articles.htm has a section on
Substrates. I use mainly easy to grow plants in my tanks so I can't help
you as much with your plants and substrate needs.

This page
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/26458-what-el-natural
-step-step.html starts the outlining of setting up a Walstad Natural Planted
Tank and says to use 1" - 1.5" of plain potting soil covered with 1" - 1.5"
of gravel. This is another article with a summary of Walstad's book...
http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTank.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 12:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: changing substrate

Thanks for the great advice on how to do this. They had told me that the
gravel was the only place the bacteria would be in the tank. The sad part is
more than one told me this same story.

Will you be removing the fish while you are doing this change out or keeping
the fish in the tank?

I had planned on leaving the fish in but I still may take the fish out.

What kind of sub-substrate do you have in your planted tank or is simply all
blue colored gravel?

Right now it is all just plain blue gravel.

Will you be going with a true planted tank substrate or just going with pea
gravel?

I had been thinking about adding a sub-substrate but can't find a good
selection anywhere near me. So I was going to use plant spikes in the new
gravel.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm not sure why they are saying you would lose all of your
fish... in fact,
> that shows signs of your LFS being completely ignorant of fish
keeping, like
> 90% of pet stores seem to be... so please take any other advice
they give
> you with a grain of gravel (pardon the pun.. lol).
>
> The filter media holds the majority of the nitrifying bacteria in
an HOB
> system... but even if you had a UGF, you could still change out
the gravel
> without losing all of your fish. There are other beneficial and
not-so
> beneficial bacteria's that also live in the gravel so you do need
to take
> care so you do not disrupt your ecosystem too much but people
change out
> their substrates all the time without losing all of their fish or
even any
> of their fish.
>
> Will you be removing the fish while you are doing this change out
or keeping
> the fish in the tank? If you remove the fish to a large
rubbermaid type
> tub, just use some or most of your existing tank water and just
put your two
> HOB's on the tub and the fish will be fine in there while you
revamp their
> tank.
>
> What kind of sub-substrate do you have in your planted tank or is
simply all
> blue colored gravel? If it is all just the blue gravel, you would
first
> want to vacuum the gravel thoroughly (several times) until you
have removed
> nearly all of the detritus from the gravel. Then you can use a
small
> plastic scoop (I use a spatula and/or slotted spoon) and start
removing the
> gravel and putting it in the pantyhose. Maybe aim for 5-10
pantyhose
> packages of your existing gravel.
>
> Will you be going with a true planted tank substrate or just going
with pea
> gravel?
>
> After you've made the changes, you can then add all or most of the
water
> from the tub back to the tank and move your fish at the same
time. Then
> move the HOB's back to the tank and voila!... you are done and
your fish
> should all still be alive.
>
> If you are doing this while keeping the fish in the tank, then it
will be a
> much slower process. After you bag up the old substrate, you will
have to
> rinse the new substrate really, really good and then while it's
still in the
> colander, slowly sink the colander into your tank and slowly pour
out the
> new substrate moving things around until you have the new
substrate in
> place.
>
> Over the coming weeks, you can remove one pack of your old gravel
each week
> until it's all removed. You should have minimal disruptions to
your
> ecosystem this way.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of friendtoallfish
> Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 10:48 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate
>
> I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right
now it is
> blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I
done this
> then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2 hob
filters
> running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I plan on
adding
> the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in pantyhose and
place them in
> the tank for help in seeding the gravel with bacteria. Would this
cut down
> on the losses that will happen. I don't want to lose any of my
fish. Does
> the gravel hold 100% of the bacteria? I thought the filters held
the
> majority of the bacteria along with whatever else is in the tank.
Thanks
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date:
9/11/2007
> 5:46 PM

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007
5:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23957 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
There's a couple of articles/threads listed on my "A to Z of Fishkeeping"
page on my blog on fishless cycling using plain ammonia, which saves your
fish from the grueling process of cycling with fish. Click the blog link in
my sig, then on the right side, you'll see the link to "A to Z of
Fishkeeping". Fishless Cycling is listed near the very top and there are
also a couple of online tutorials you can take.

It will take a few weeks to fishless cycle your tank so you have time to do
more research and read the profiles of fish you are interested in. Also
check with your local stores to see what they have available. A good site
for profiles on all fish is http://fish.mongabay.com and you can search for
the common or scientific name.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of babyangelsdaycareabilenetx
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?

Hello, I just bought a 29 gallon fish tank and set it up last night.
It has decorations, fake plants, and undergravel filter, heater, bubble
stone, aqua clear water filter, 20-40 gallon air pump.
I would like to start cycling the tank but I am not sure how to do this.
Also what temperature do I need to set it on? After cycling I would like to
have mollies and cory catfish but would also like suggestions on other fish
that would work with these two. I heard that mollies like aquarium salt so
would the other fish be fine with the salt also?

Thanks for any and all help!

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.15/1002 - Release Date: 9/11/2007
5:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23958 From: poul wehner Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
A diatom filter will clear that up in a hour or so.

gorsford wrote:
>
> I have a 60 gallon tank. i am using 2 substrates. one of them is
> fluorite sand, the fine black one. usually fluorite doesn't need to be
> washed, but this sand has a lot of dust. I didn't know about this and
> I added water. now the whole tank is so blurry....
> what should I so? it got fish in it... I used 50% established tank
> water and 50% treated water
> Help :(
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23959 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: New tank disaster!
A simple cheap air driven box filter with filter floss will take longer but will also help clear up the dust.

An aquaclear filter with filter floss also does a good job.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
From: poul wehner <poul.wehner@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 12 Sep 2007 3:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New tank disaster!






A diatom filter will clear that up in a hour or so.

gorsford wrote:
>
> I have a 60 gallon tank. i am using 2 substrates. one of them is
> fluorite sand, the fine black one. usually fluorite doesn't need to be
> washed, but this sand has a lot of dust. I didn't know about this and
> I added water. now the whole tank is so blurry....
> what should I so? it got fish in it... I used 50% established tank
> water and 50% treated water
> Help :(
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23960 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
The problem you will face in removing the substrate that no one hs yet
touched upon lays in areas that may not have been disturbed (for lack of
a better word at the moment) for some time. In these areas you are
likely to find anaerobic bacteria, and the foul substances they may
produce, like hydrogen sulfide gas. This is probably why the people at
the shop are worried about you losing fish.

You'll also be stirring up a lot of stuff, even with regular gravel
cleaning in hand, so you may want, after you remove the first portion,
to add some additional filtration to help control the debris.

One path you may want to consider taking is to plan on doing it one
afternoon, bagging all your fish, draining the tank into containers so
you are saving the water, pull the plants and put on and cover with wet
newspaper, change out all your gravel, rinse the tank with water, and
place in your new substrate, add some of your water, the plants, the
fish, and finish filling the tank. Oh, your filters can be kept running
on the containers you use to hold the tank water so you will not lose
many of the bacteria important to the biological cycle.

After you have done this, your plants will go through a period of
transplant shock, and it may take a while for everything to get back to
normal in your tank. No matter how you do it, it is a project, and you
may still lose fish and/or plants through your efforts. It is, indeed,
one of those projects you do not want to undertake lightly.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now
it is blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I
done this then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2
hob filters running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I
plan on adding the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in
pantyhose and place them in the tank for help in seeding the gravel
with bacteria. Would this cut down on the losses that will happen. I
don't want to lose any of my fish. Does the gravel hold 100% of the
bacteria? I thought the filters held the majority of the bacteria
along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23961 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Re: 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?
Cycling: Get a bottle of ammonia, make sure it is one that does not
have any additives like detergent or fragrances. Get yourself some high
quality test kits. At a minimum, you will need ammonia, nitrite,
nitrate, and pH kits. Ensure that the reagents, the stuff you do the
tests with, have an expiration date, and the date is some time in the
future, not tomorrow. If you can find them, I like the Aqua-Tru kits
distributed by Kordon.

To start, you will need to add enough ammonia to bring your reading to
5. Then, each day, you will need to test the water and add enough
additional ammonia to bring the reading back to 5. When your reading
prior to adding ammonia is 0, the first part of the cycle is done, and
you will need to start watching the nitrite. Keep adding the amount of
ammonia you need to bring the ammonia reading to 5 each day, and soon
you will see the nitrites decreasing. When both the ammonia reading and
the nitrite reading are 0 each day, you have established your cycle.
Keep adding ammonia until you add your first fish.

Temperature: While you are establishing the cycle, you can set the
heater to a nominal 75 degrees F until you decide what fish you will be
getting to populate your tank. Once you have made the decision, set the
heater to maintain a median water temperature that all the fish will
like

Despite what I saw in another reply, I have had my best success with
mollies using some salt added to the water and maintaining a temperature
near 80 degrees F. Some variation in the amount of salt used is
appreciated by the fish. Unfortunately, corys are not a salt loving
fish. They will stand it, but are not happy with it. There are other
bottom dwellers you might want to consider, like gobies.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of babyangelsdaycareabilenetx
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 1:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] 29 Gallon Fish Tank Need Help On Cycling?

Hello, I just bought a 29 gallon fish tank and set it up last night.
It has decorations, fake plants, and undergravel filter, heater,
bubble stone, aqua clear water filter, 20-40 gallon air pump.
I would like to start cycling the tank but I am not sure how to do
this. Also what temperature do I need to set it on? After cycling I
would like to have mollies and cory catfish but would also like
suggestions on other fish that would work with these two. I heard that
mollies like aquarium salt so would the other fish be fine with the
salt also?

Thanks for any and all help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23962 From: Lauren Date: 9/12/2007
Subject: Goldfish not eating, sitting on the bottom
Hi everyone. I'm not sure if my goldfish will live much longer. But
incase, I'd like some advice. I have a 29 G with 2 comet goldfish.
I'm new to caring for goldfish. My boyfriend and I saved them from a
life in a small fish bowl in April. So they didn't start out in good
conditions. But I've read all I could about how to care for them and
they seemed to be fine until recently.

About 3 days ago Tangerine got a protrusion on the left side of her
chin, which seems to come to a point. It has a small red dot in the
middle. We're not sure if it's a parasite or maybe something inside
her like gravel. Tangerine seems hungry, but she grabs food then
spits it out. We don't think she's eaten for 3 days. The bump seems
to have to do with her not eating. Also when I got home from work
today, she was sitting on the bottom of the tank barely moving. She
started to be active again, but right now she it sitting on the
bottom again like this.

The water has normal readings and we use a dip stick. I asked advice
at another form and we were told to get her in a hospital tank
incase the "pimple" bursts. And it's also better for feeding since
her friend eats her food (incase she starts to eat). She's in a 10 G
with water and a filter from the other tank. We were told to get
Prazi and Medigold, which we ordered online today. We've been
treating both fish with Melafix for 2 weeks since they had come fin
rot. Her's healed, but then this bump appeared.

So because she's sitting on the bottom like this we don't know how
long she has. But is there any food she may eat? Maybe something she
doesn't have to chew? Chewing seems hard for her. Tonight she took a
blood worm, seemed to chew it some, but spit it out.

Thanks in advance!
Lauren
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23963 From: gorsford Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend
suggested me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate
pentahydrate. is it safe for shrimps?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23964 From: hamrad45 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Guppies died again
I have been trying to add a pair of guppies to my 10 gallon tank and
all 3 sets have died within a few days. As someone point out in my
previous emails I need to be more specific.

Here is my setup:

Tank - 10 gallon (a few months old)
Filter - Hang on the back, Tetra for 10 gallon
Plants - 3 medium size (6-8 inches) plastic for aquariums
Gravel - 5 - 6 lbs white large gravel for aquariums
Water Temp - 79 degrees and very stable
Feeding - Once a day Tetramint flaks (1 or 2 pinches)
Chemistry (present) -
Ph=7.6
Nitrate =40
Nitrite =0
Hardness = normal (don't remember the exact number)
Amonina = 0

History - Started tank about 3 months ago (first setup in 25 years)
using dechlorined tap water. Lost all fish(pair of guppies and black
mollies) when a week. Tested water and researched via internet. All
chemical reading where off the scale (using one of those dipstick
testers).
Removed all tab water and replaced with distilled water per local pet
stored advice. Let tank cycle for two weeks more. Put in three Neon
Tetras to test the tank. Waited week and Neon's appeared to be fine.
Chemistry was improving i.e. all reading were normal except nitrates
and nitrites (expected tank was going thru startup cycle). Waited
two more weeks and added a second pair of Fancy Guppies and two very
small Pink Gouramis. Same results, as they died within two days but
other fish were fine. Waited a few more weeks until the Nitrites
when to zero and all measurements were good except Nitrate was still
holding at 40. Last week added 3rd set of Guppies same results,
Other fish ok and Guppies died with two days. Note all 3 sets of
Guppies were from different places (PetSmart, Walmart and local
petshop, in that order). None of the Guppies that died show any signs
of illness or diease or damage (Pinks Gouramis are very small and
very quite). Usually one died over night and the second one by the
second day. I have a small one gallon tank I could use to test a 4th
set and keep them out of the tank with the other fish but I am
thinking it is something in the setup of 10 gallon tank and not the
other fish.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks for your time,

Tom S.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23965 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Can some one measure for me?
I dont want to go to petsmart with a tape measure so I was hoping
someone could measure there tank for me please? I am looking to see how
long some tanks are. My husband and I have 2 places for a real long
tank and we want to get some ideas of exactly how long they are. I am
looking for mabie around 75 gallon or even 150 gallon or anywhere in
between.
Thanks so much for such a odd request.
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23966 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Can some one measure for me?
Here is a site with measurements and also pay attention to the weight of the
tanks. Can your floor support the weight? Susan

http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23967 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
we have just finished remodling the entire kitchen ourselves and that is why we said to have it in the kitchen before we get one for the dining room. We had to put up new beams in our celler for the changes we made to the kitchen. We want to get one set up for water turtles in our dining room sence we have a long wall to put a tank. Thanks for the link. I will check it out.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Mrenna" <mail4sdm2@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 11:17:09 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] RE:Can some one measure for me?







Here is a site with measurements and also pay attention to the weight of the
tanks. Can your floor support the weight? Susan

http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23968 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Python System
Stupid question time: Does the Python clean the gravel also? I am at
work right now so I didn't want to do too much Internet digging (<G>)
but the part that you put into the tank looks very much like a gravel
cleaner yet the Python website said nothing about it being used for that
purpose - it was talking about water changes.

The thing does look more convenient than the regular gravel siphon
cleaner that I have been using for years. If in fact it does clean the
gravel (which I am doubting because the website also said that it will
not disturb your plants), than I would start looking at different sites
to purchase one.

Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23969 From: William Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Python System
I use one to clean my gravel with each water change. The only thing
to watch out for is if you have plant material that get stuck in
the "pump or even gravel can keep the Pump from working right. If my
pump gets stuck I will unscrew the metal screws pump so that I can
take anything out that is fouling up the pump. It is just a small
nuance to do this and I do not intend to change back to the "bucket
brigade" . I have 8 tanks running (not including the 2 & 1/2 gallon
tanks) so the bucket brigade was not good for me.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paula Brown" <browngip@...>
wrote:
>
> Stupid question time: Does the Python clean the gravel also? I
am at
> work right now so I didn't want to do too much Internet digging
(<G>)
> but the part that you put into the tank looks very much like a
gravel
> cleaner yet the Python website said nothing about it being used
for that
> purpose - it was talking about water changes.
>
> The thing does look more convenient than the regular gravel siphon
> cleaner that I have been using for years. If in fact it does
clean the
> gravel (which I am doubting because the website also said that it
will
> not disturb your plants), than I would start looking at different
sites
> to purchase one.
>
> Thanks!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23970 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Hi all,
I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And
I'm a pet person.
Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like
an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a
desktop aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest
one I've seen is $25) or a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good
for the fish), not sure whether I would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I
went with the desktop aquarium. As for what fish to put in, I want
small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs. I've heard
that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure whether
that's true.
I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish, they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small
tank or fishbowl. I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
like them. Can't explain why, they just bug me.
I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And any input as to whether I should get a desktop
aquarium or a large bowl would also be appreciated.
Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a
plant, should I get a real one or a plastic one?
I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
-Kathy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23971 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
This link may help you out...
http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=41


Grey
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>From: "scoobyd559" <tundra@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one measure for me?
>Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 14:57:10 -0000
>
>I dont want to go to petsmart with a tape measure so I was hoping
>someone could measure there tank for me please? I am looking to see how
>long some tanks are. My husband and I have 2 places for a real long
>tank and we want to get some ideas of exactly how long they are. I am
>looking for mabie around 75 gallon or even 150 gallon or anywhere in
>between.
>Thanks so much for such a odd request.
>Melanie
>

_________________________________________________________________
Discover sweet stuff waiting for you at the Messenger Cafe.� Claim your
treat today!
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23972 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Found the tank I want for a good price!
Hi all,
Thinking seriously about getting fish, and posted my intro a few hours
ago. I've been doing a little research in the past few hours, and
decided to go with a 1 gallon desktop aquarium. My local "mom and pop"
pet store doesn't have one that price, but I'll definitely be getting
the fish from them since the fish there are healthier, plus a few other
supplies. Anyway, the tank I found was at petco, it was $20. I figure
to strike a balance between my tight budget and my desire to support
local business, I'll get the tank and more expensive stuff at petco and
the fish, food, and decor at my local "mom and pop" pet store.
I'm forcing myself to wait at least a month before I go for this: that
way I won't rush into anything petwise. Just figure since I've always
liked fish and since fish are a great dorm pet (I'm in college), I'll
get some eventually, but I have to carefully consider all aspects of
it. Besides, my allowance is on a monthly basis, and I've already used
this month's, LOL.
-Kathy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23973 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: pH adjustments
When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that
I would put some peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard
to find peat that is made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there
must be a reason for this (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to
7.0 as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23974 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
You can get a complete 5 gallon set up at Wal Mart. They have a
"kit" type of aquarium. It doesn't come with the gravel though.
One gallon is pretty small and you won't be able to find a heater
for it. Tropical fish do need the water to be warm to be able to
thrive. I know there will be more responses for you from folks
that are more knowledgeable than me. So, good luck and keep
on researching. You'll be surprised what you find, I was.

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of kl_whitney
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 7:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish



Hi all,
I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And
I'm a pet person.
Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like
an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a
desktop aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest
one I've seen is $25) or a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good
for the fish), not sure whether I would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I
went with the desktop aquarium. As for what fish to put in, I want
small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs. I've heard
that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure whether
that's true.
I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish, they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small
tank or fishbowl. I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
like them. Can't explain why, they just bug me.
I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And any input as to whether I should get a desktop
aquarium or a large bowl would also be appreciated.
Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a
plant, should I get a real one or a plastic one?
I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
-Kathy






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23975 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Thanks, I'll look into the Walmart aquarium kits. I was thinking of
using glass pebbles as a substrate (do aquarists call it substrate
like herpers do? you know, the stuff on the bottom of the tank.)
Is that OK? The lady at the reliable "mom and pop" pet store said
that glass pebbles are ok. She also told me not to get neon tetras
b/c they're fussy. True?
Thanks again,
Kathy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> You can get a complete 5 gallon set up at Wal Mart. They have a
> "kit" type of aquarium. It doesn't come with the gravel though.
> One gallon is pretty small and you won't be able to find a heater
> for it. Tropical fish do need the water to be warm to be able to
> thrive. I know there will be more responses for you from folks
> that are more knowledgeable than me. So, good luck and keep
> on researching. You'll be surprised what you find, I was.
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 7:19 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting
fish
>
>
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
> (I'm in college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And
> I'm a pet person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment
like
> an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
> extensively resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a
> desktop aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the
cheapest
> one I've seen is $25) or a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good
> for the fish), not sure whether I would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I
> went with the desktop aquarium. As for what fish to put in, I want
> small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs. I've heard
> that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure
whether
> that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
> goldfish, they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a
small
> tank or fishbowl. I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
> like them. Can't explain why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
> fishtank. And any input as to whether I should get a desktop
> aquarium or a large bowl would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
> you use in flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a
> plant, should I get a real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23976 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Steve,

I did say to vacuum the gravel several times really good to remove ALL
detritus before doing the gravel change out. This should take care of any
anaerobic areas but I agree with you about pointing it out in more detail.
Thanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 7:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

The problem you will face in removing the substrate that no one hs yet
touched upon lays in areas that may not have been disturbed (for lack of a
better word at the moment) for some time. In these areas you are likely to
find anaerobic bacteria, and the foul substances they may produce, like
hydrogen sulfide gas. This is probably why the people at the shop are
worried about you losing fish.

You'll also be stirring up a lot of stuff, even with regular gravel cleaning
in hand, so you may want, after you remove the first portion, to add some
additional filtration to help control the debris.

One path you may want to consider taking is to plan on doing it one
afternoon, bagging all your fish, draining the tank into containers so you
are saving the water, pull the plants and put on and cover with wet
newspaper, change out all your gravel, rinse the tank with water, and place
in your new substrate, add some of your water, the plants, the fish, and
finish filling the tank. Oh, your filters can be kept running on the
containers you use to hold the tank water so you will not lose many of the
bacteria important to the biological cycle.

After you have done this, your plants will go through a period of transplant
shock, and it may take a while for everything to get back to normal in your
tank. No matter how you do it, it is a project, and you may still lose fish
and/or plants through your efforts. It is, indeed, one of those projects you
do not want to undertake lightly.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now it is
blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I done this
then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2 hob filters
running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I plan on adding
the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in pantyhose and place them in
the tank for help in seeding the gravel with bacteria. Would this cut down
on the losses that will happen. I don't want to lose any of my fish. Does
the gravel hold 100% of the bacteria? I thought the filters held the
majority of the bacteria along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23977 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the basic
dechlor product although there is still some debate about fertilizers for
plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good websites have opposing
opinions on that topic.

You can manually remove the snails but snails are a direct result to the
ecosystem where they live. If they start over-populating, then there is
something else going on that possibly needs to be fixed. It could be that
some of your shrimp have died and the snails will eat them and as long as
there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead shrimp), the snails will
continue to breed and grow.

I have snails in my cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I even
have planaria (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on the glass
at night) but I know it's because I am not able to vacuum the gravel as well
in my cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria are actually part of the
clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel. I stir up the gravel with my
weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance to eat any detritus that they like
but the rest, that doesn't get vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel for
the planaria or snails.

Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need omnivores to take care of the dead
shrimp or other protein in the tank. Even the small pieces of algae thins
(pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has protein in it so I'm not sure if the
shrimp are eating this protein or spitting it out when they are feasting on
the piece of algae thin. At least I know the snails and planaria will eat
up any uneaten protein (including any possible dead shrimp).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?

I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend suggested
me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate pentahydrate. is it
safe for shrimps?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23978 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Guppies died again
First advice. Quit getting advice from your pet store. Fish cannot live in
distilled water for very long. 90% or more of pet store employees don't
know their asterisk from a hole in the ground when it comes to keeping fish
long term. Ask them to explain the nitrogen cycle, pH and basic water
chemistry... but don't laugh too hard when they get that quizzical look on
their face or they simply walk off on you to go help someone else.

Second advice. Quit experimenting with and/or killing the fish. Sorry to
be rough but there are some basic things that YOU need to know before just
throwing fish in the tank to see if they will live!

Running your tank for two weeks is not "cycling" the tank in the way cycling
is used in the fish keeping hobby. Go to my blog (in sig) and read the page
"A to Z of fish keeping" and take one or both of the online tutorials I have
listed there so you will get a basic understanding of the nitrogen cycle,
etc. Understanding this basic biological process is of the utmost
importance to keeping fish long term.

Instead of trying to "cycle" your tank with fish, you should seriously
consider fishless cycling the tank using plain ammonia (available at Ace
Hardware stores and many other stores) so you can grow the proper sized
nitrifying bacteria colony before adding fish to the tank... although you
may have completed the nitrogen cycle since you are getting a nitrate
reading now but you need to have better tests done so you will know if the
numbers are correct.

I have links to more details of fishless cycling on my A to Z page also.
While you are fishless cycling, it will give you time to learn some of the
other beginner basics from the tutorials listed on my A to Z page. You may
still need to fishless cycle the tank if it remains without fish for more
than a few days as the nitrifying bacteria will die off without ammonia for
food.

I'm sure it's because of your local pet store that you dismiss the "startup
cycle" so easily. The nitrogen cycle, when cycling with fish, will kill
your fish (as you've seen) if you do not monitor things properly and do
sufficient PWC's to keep the ammonia/nitrite levels low enough so they don't
kill your fish.

You should also use up those dipstick tests and get a decent Master Test Kit
(I use the API one and also have one from Tetra-Laborette) which are much
less expensive in the long run compared to the often inaccurate dipsticks.

What brand name dechlor product are you using? Are you adding any other
junk chemicals or additives to the water (yes I said junk since most of them
are)?

Since you are getting a nitrate reading, your tank may already be fully
cycled but this could also be a false positive from the dipsticks or your
tap water could have high nitrate levels. Also on my blog, you will see an
article on "Establishing your tap water baseline" so you will know your
starting point so you can then know what is happening to the water once it
is in your tank and affected by the tank's ecosystem.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Guppies died again

I have been trying to add a pair of guppies to my 10 gallon tank and all 3
sets have died within a few days. As someone point out in my previous emails
I need to be more specific.

Here is my setup:

Tank - 10 gallon (a few months old)
Filter - Hang on the back, Tetra for 10 gallon Plants - 3 medium size (6-8
inches) plastic for aquariums Gravel - 5 - 6 lbs white large gravel for
aquariums Water Temp - 79 degrees and very stable Feeding - Once a day
Tetramint flaks (1 or 2 pinches) Chemistry (present) -
Ph=7.6
Nitrate =40
Nitrite =0
Hardness = normal (don't remember the exact number) Amonina = 0

History - Started tank about 3 months ago (first setup in 25 years) using
dechlorined tap water. Lost all fish(pair of guppies and black
mollies) when a week. Tested water and researched via internet. All chemical
reading where off the scale (using one of those dipstick testers).
Removed all tab water and replaced with distilled water per local pet stored
advice. Let tank cycle for two weeks more. Put in three Neon Tetras to test
the tank. Waited week and Neon's appeared to be fine.
Chemistry was improving i.e. all reading were normal except nitrates and
nitrites (expected tank was going thru startup cycle). Waited two more weeks
and added a second pair of Fancy Guppies and two very small Pink Gouramis.
Same results, as they died within two days but other fish were fine. Waited
a few more weeks until the Nitrites when to zero and all measurements were
good except Nitrate was still holding at 40. Last week added 3rd set of
Guppies same results, Other fish ok and Guppies died with two days. Note all
3 sets of Guppies were from different places (PetSmart, Walmart and local
petshop, in that order). None of the Guppies that died show any signs of
illness or diease or damage (Pinks Gouramis are very small and very quite).
Usually one died over night and the second one by the second day. I have a
small one gallon tank I could use to test a 4th set and keep them out of the
tank with the other fish but I am thinking it is something in the setup of
10 gallon tank and not the other fish.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks for your time,

Tom S.



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23979 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Can some one measure for me?
Here's a couple of pages of standard sizes for tanks.

http://www.alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm

http://www.glasscages.com/ (this is where I bought my 65G acrylic tank which
has a 48" x 18" footprint)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:57 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Can some one measure for me?

I dont want to go to petsmart with a tape measure so I was hoping someone
could measure there tank for me please? I am looking to see how long some
tanks are. My husband and I have 2 places for a real long tank and we want
to get some ideas of exactly how long they are. I am looking for mabie
around 75 gallon or even 150 gallon or anywhere in between.
Thanks so much for such a odd request.
Melanie


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23980 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Python System
The big tube on the Python can be used for vacuuming the gravel like any
other gravel vacuum. You control where the tube goes so if you don't want
to disturb the plants, don't push it into the gravel near the plants. I
think it's assumed that most people vacuum the gravel when doing a PWC.

Here is Python's main page just in case you are reading about it on another
site... http://www.pythonproducts.com/aqprod.html

You can probably see video's of people using the Python on YouTube or other
video hosting sites.

PetsMart.com usually has the 25' Python for under $25.00 and the local
stores will match the website prices if you bring the printed page on any of
their products. I usually save 20-50% this way.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python System

Stupid question time: Does the Python clean the gravel also? I am at work
right now so I didn't want to do too much Internet digging (<G>) but the
part that you put into the tank looks very much like a gravel cleaner yet
the Python website said nothing about it being used for that purpose - it
was talking about water changes.

The thing does look more convenient than the regular gravel siphon cleaner
that I have been using for years. If in fact it does clean the gravel (which
I am doubting because the website also said that it will not disturb your
plants), than I would start looking at different sites to purchase one.

Thanks!

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Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23981 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and many love
high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.

When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you mean that
you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just run it
for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been running it,
then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on my "A to Z
of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on fishless
cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of fish.

Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will come down
naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in the
ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches to raise
the pH).

What kind of fish are you interested in?

If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find peat
moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related stores but
most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for a new
tank set up.

While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List" for
suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments

When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH through
chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done a thing
(as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would put some
peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat that is
made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for this
(i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to 7.0
as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23982 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)

Not many fish will do well for very long in it though... except for maybe a
Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but you state you do not want a
Betta.

Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a single fish from one of
those species will not do well either. For fish that stay under 3" as full
grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which means 1" of fish for each
gallon of water so that means you will only be able to have a single 1"
fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work for fish that get over
3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty fish.)

If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or 5G, you could possibly go
with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are very personable and
entertaining.

You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or maybe even free at sites like
FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a 10G, there is a list of
suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my blog (link in sig and on
the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")

For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank' and you might find other
suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles on fish that stay around
1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to have a few of them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish

Hi all,
I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing (I'm in
college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And I'm a pet person.
Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like an
aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be extensively
resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a desktop aquarium
(expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest one I've seen is $25) or
a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the fish), not sure whether I
would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the desktop aquarium. As for what
fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs.
I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure
whether that's true.
I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want goldfish,
they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small tank or fishbowl.
I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't like them. Can't explain
why, they just bug me.
I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my fishtank. And
any input as to whether I should get a desktop aquarium or a large bowl
would also be appreciated.
Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like you use in
flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a plant, should I get a
real one or a plastic one?
I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
-Kathy






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23983 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Noah,



What do you keep or plan on keeping in this tank?


When I started keeping fish I had the similiar idea that because the book said a fish was found in 7.0 pH that I had to change the tank to match.  I had a lot of wil pH swings and ended up doing more harm to my fish.

Now I just acclimate all my fish to water comes out of my tap. 

The exception to altering the water in my fish room is I keep crushed coral in a few lake Tanganyikan tanks.  I was finding shells for my shell dwellers paper thin and crumbling. 

Peat moss is getting more difficult to find.  Recently I checked about 7 stores in my area, four of them non chain shops, and had zero luck finding any.  A friend that works at a shop about 45 miles from me said she has some at the store.  I tried several of the big online fish retailers and had no luck. 

You may want to try and contact Killifish keepers as they tend to use it a lot.

Mike



When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that
I would put some peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard
to find peat that is made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there
must be a reason for this (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to
7.0 as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)



-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:39 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments






When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that
I would put some peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard
to find peat that is made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there
must be a reason for this (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to
7.0 as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Subject: Latest news about marine biology
Marine animal news
Latest Blog News
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23985 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
OK, yup. I liked the suggestion of the 5 gallon kit at walmart so
much I looked into it. Costs about $30. It's worth it, IMO. I'll
have to see how my finances are when I make the final decision. So
can I keep a school of six or seven little fish in there? And will
glass pebbles work as substrate, or should I get gravel and use
glass pebbles as decorations?
I'm still looking for suggestions as far as fish go. I really like
neon tetras, but some say they're hard to keep. I want something
colorful that won't cost an arm and a leg. Like less than $20 for
all 6(?) fish.
I'll do my cost estimate here, cause I just want to get it figured
out.
OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
$30 for the tank kit
$5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the live ones grow
like crazy in a small tank)
$12-20 for the fish
$5 for the water purifier
$2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes)
$4??? for substate unless I can use my glass pebbles
Altogether about $60. Is that a good price to pay for my first
aquarium setup? Am I forgetting anything?
-Kathy



> You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)
>
> Not many fish will do well for very long in it though... except
for maybe a
> Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but you state you do
not want a
> Betta.
>
> Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a single fish from
one of
> those species will not do well either. For fish that stay under
3" as full
> grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which means 1" of fish
for each
> gallon of water so that means you will only be able to have a
single 1"
> fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work for fish that
get over
> 3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty fish.)
>
> If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or 5G, you could
possibly go
> with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are very personable
and
> entertaining.
>
> You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or maybe even free at
sites like
> FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a 10G, there is a
list of
> suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my blog (link in sig
and on
> the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")
>
> For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank' and you might
find other
> suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles on fish that
stay around
> 1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to have a few of
them.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting
fish
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in
> college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And I'm a
pet person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment
like an
> aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively
> resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a desktop
aquarium
> (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest one I've seen
is $25) or
> a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the fish), not sure
whether I
> would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the desktop aquarium. As
for what
> fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like neon tetras or
tiger barbs.
> I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm
not sure
> whether that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish,
> they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small tank or
fishbowl.
> I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't like them. Can't
explain
> why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And
> any input as to whether I should get a desktop aquarium or a large
bowl
> would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in
> flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a plant, should
I get a
> real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23986 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Most lawn & garden places should have it. Do a Google on 'peat moss'
http://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=peat%20moss and you will
find it every where. There's even a site called peatmoss.com for the Peat
Moss Association.

I did an eBay search and only found a few listings but here is one for $2.00
but unfortunately $5.00 for shipping...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Peat-moss-Peatmoss-for-hatch-killifish-killi-fish_W0QQit
emZ200079560498QQihZ010QQcategoryZ66795QQcmdZViewItem

Aquabid only had one seller also but they only ship to the EU...
http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?breeding&1190233748 ...
so maybe it is getting harder to find but I'm sure the bigger lawn & garden
stores should still have it.

BUT... as I said in my previous reply, most fish will do fine at the 7.8 pH
you have from your tap and it will likely come down a little as your tank
matures with fish/plants and filtration going.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 3:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments


Noah,

What do you keep or plan on keeping in this tank?

When I started keeping fish I had the similiar idea that because the book
said a fish was found in 7.0 pH that I had to change the tank to match. I
had a lot of wil pH swings and ended up doing more harm to my fish.

Now I just acclimate all my fish to water comes out of my tap.

The exception to altering the water in my fish room is I keep crushed coral
in a few lake Tanganyikan tanks. I was finding shells for my shell dwellers
paper thin and crumbling.

Peat moss is getting more difficult to find. Recently I checked about 7
stores in my area, four of them non chain shops, and had zero luck finding
any. A friend that works at a shop about 45 miles from me said she has some
at the store. I tried several of the big online fish retailers and had no
luck.

You may want to try and contact Killifish keepers as they tend to use it a
lot.

Mike

When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH through
chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done a thing
(as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would put some
peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat that is
made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for this
(i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to 7.0
as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)

-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@... <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:39 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments

When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH through
chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done a thing
(as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would put some
peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat that is
made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for this
(i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to 7.0
as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23988 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group...
I'm revising my cost estimate. The tank kit comes with purifier and
maybe food, not sure. All I would need would be substrate, fake
plants, fish, and maybe food. So I'm thinking $50 is a better
estimate of the total cost.
But that's nothing compared to the setup/feeding/heating/initial pet
price for my snake: she cost me $25, her tank would cost at least
$40 if it weren't just something we had around the house, her heater
was $8, and I'm spending upwards of $50 a year on her mice.
So fish (at least the begginner ones) are a cheap pet compared to
snakes. And they're more acceptable to potentail renters. I mean I
can have fish in a student apartment more easily than I can have a
snake.
The dumb thing about the school I'm looking at transfering to is
that they only let married students have pets. The housing for
families/couples is pet friendly, but not the apartments for single
students. Excuse me, but singles need pets more than married
couples do! At least, that's what I think: if you're married, you
have a companion, but if you're single, you're more likely to need a
pet to keep you company. That's one of the reasons I'm so
interested in getting fish. They'll give me something to satisfy my
innate need to nurture something. Plus they're gorgeous, and won't
freak people out as much as my other pet (her name's Serpenticula,
which is Latin for 'beloved snake'). If I don't have a pet, I'll be
the crazy chick who sings to her houseplants!
Ok, I'll stop rambling about my need for having a pet/the dumbness
of most universitys' pet policys.
Anyway, I looked at the pic of the white cloud minnows. Just
doesn't float my boat. I'll talk to the lady at the reliable pet
store I mentioned before about what fish to get (it's a small local
one, not a big chain, ergo more reliable. i've gotten good advice
in the past).
Here's what I want from my hypothetical fish:
-Colorful
-Schooling
-Small (well suited to a 5-10 gallon tank)
-interesting to watch
-begginer level care requirements
-cost of less than $3 per individual at the average pet store

I don't mind if the fish need a heater, cause the kit I'm thinking
about comes with one. I do mind if they get nippy like tiger barbs
reputedly do in small schools.

AMATE PISCEM TUUM (Latin for 'love your fish')
-Kathy




> OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
> $30 for the tank kit
> $5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the live ones grow
> like crazy in a small tank)
> $12-20 for the fish
> $5 for the water purifier
> $2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes)
> $4??? for substate unless I can use my glass pebbles
> Altogether about $60. Is that a good price to pay for my first
> aquarium setup? Am I forgetting anything?
> -Kathy
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23989 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Wanna get married? LOL

Did you look at the list of suitable fish for a 10G tank on my blog? Print
that out when you go to your LFS and see what they have from that list.

Look at the bright side with fish... at least you don't have to tell a guy
that you have herpes... ooops.. I meant herps. ;-)

I still think if you checked around on FreeCycle or Craigslist, you could
find a 10G setup for free or next to nothing. When I was looking for my BIG
tank, I saw 10G's all the time.

I think the schools policy concerning singles is that you are less likely to
be home very much to take care of your pets, compared to married folks. I
mean... there's rush parties, football parties, ladies nights, party
weekends, etc., etc., etc.... oh yeah.. and the occasional class and library
visit to study. Geeez... I miss college! :(

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 5:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to
this group...

I'm revising my cost estimate. The tank kit comes with purifier and maybe
food, not sure. All I would need would be substrate, fake plants, fish, and
maybe food. So I'm thinking $50 is a better estimate of the total cost.
But that's nothing compared to the setup/feeding/heating/initial pet price
for my snake: she cost me $25, her tank would cost at least $40 if it
weren't just something we had around the house, her heater was $8, and I'm
spending upwards of $50 a year on her mice.
So fish (at least the begginner ones) are a cheap pet compared to snakes.
And they're more acceptable to potentail renters. I mean I can have fish in
a student apartment more easily than I can have a snake.
The dumb thing about the school I'm looking at transfering to is that they
only let married students have pets. The housing for families/couples is pet
friendly, but not the apartments for single students. Excuse me, but singles
need pets more than married couples do! At least, that's what I think: if
you're married, you have a companion, but if you're single, you're more
likely to need a pet to keep you company. That's one of the reasons I'm so
interested in getting fish. They'll give me something to satisfy my innate
need to nurture something. Plus they're gorgeous, and won't freak people out
as much as my other pet (her name's Serpenticula, which is Latin for
'beloved snake'). If I don't have a pet, I'll be the crazy chick who sings
to her houseplants!
Ok, I'll stop rambling about my need for having a pet/the dumbness of most
universitys' pet policys.
Anyway, I looked at the pic of the white cloud minnows. Just doesn't float
my boat. I'll talk to the lady at the reliable pet store I mentioned before
about what fish to get (it's a small local one, not a big chain, ergo more
reliable. i've gotten good advice in the past).
Here's what I want from my hypothetical fish:
-Colorful
-Schooling
-Small (well suited to a 5-10 gallon tank) -interesting to watch -begginer
level care requirements -cost of less than $3 per individual at the average
pet store

I don't mind if the fish need a heater, cause the kit I'm thinking about
comes with one. I do mind if they get nippy like tiger barbs reputedly do in
small schools.

AMATE PISCEM TUUM (Latin for 'love your fish') -Kathy

> OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
> $30 for the tank kit
> $5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the live ones grow
> like crazy in a small tank) $12-20 for the fish
> $5 for the water purifier
> $2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes) $4??? for substate
> unless I can use my glass pebbles Altogether about $60. Is that a good
> price to pay for my first aquarium setup? Am I forgetting anything?
> -Kathy
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23990 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Hi Kathy,



Check out heterandria Formosa.

Small
Schooling
more than one color :)
interesting
Real easy to care for
Price, not sure, if they are carried local or not.
They can be gotten from aquabid.com

This seller wants to $15.00 for 12 of them, plus $12.00 shipping = $27.00       $27.00/12= $2.25 per fish.
http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?fwlivebearersw&1189790994


Here is some information on them, the pics in this article do not do them justice.
http://www.petfish.net/articles/Livebearers/het.php

pics
http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images;_ylt=A0oGkxmJwOlGCVIB8PNXNyoA?ei=UTF-8&p=heterandria%20Formosa&fr2=tab-web&fr=yfp-t-471

http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&q=heterandria+formosa

-Mike

I looked at the pic of the white cloud minnows. Just
doesn't float my boat. I'll talk to the lady at the reliable pet
store I mentioned before about what fish to get (it's a small local
one, not a big chain, ergo more reliable. i've gotten good advice
in the past).
Here's what I want from my hypothetical fish:
-Colorful
-Schooling
-Small (well suited to a 5-10 gallon tank)
-interesting to watch
-begginer level care requirements
-cost of less than $3 per individual at the average pet store



-----Original Message-----
From: kl_whitney <kwhitney@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 3:14 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group...






I'm revising my cost estimate. The tank kit comes with purifier and
maybe food, not sure. All I would need would be substrate, fake
plants, fish, and maybe food. So I'm thinking $50 is a better
estimate of the total cost.
But that's nothing compared to the setup/feeding/heating/initial pet
price for my snake: she cost me $25, her tank would cost at least
$40 if it weren't just something we had around the house, her heater
was $8, and I'm spending upwards of $50 a year on her mice.
So fish (at least the begginner ones) are a cheap pet compared to
snakes. And they're more acceptable to potentail renters. I mean I
can have fish in a student apartment more easily than I can have a
snake.
The dumb thing about the school I'm looking at transfering to is
that they only let married students have pets. The housing for
families/couples is pet friendly, but not the apartments for single
students. Excuse me, but singles need pets more than married
couples do! At least, that's what I think: if you're married, you
have a companion, but if you're single, you're more likely to need a
pet to keep you company. That's one of the reasons I'm so
interested in getting fish. They'll give me something to satisfy my
innate need to nurture something. Plus they're gorgeous, and won't
freak people out as much as my other pet (her name's Serpenticula,
which is Latin for 'beloved snake'). If I don't have a pet, I'll be
the crazy chick who sings to her houseplants!
Ok, I'll stop rambling about my need for having a pet/the dumbness
of most universitys' pet policys.
Anyway, I looked at the pic of the white cloud minnows. Just
doesn't float my boat. I'll talk to the lady at the reliable pet
store I mentioned before about what fish to get (it's a small local
one, not a big chain, ergo more reliable. i've gotten good advice
in the past).
Here's what I want from my hypothetical fish:
-Colorful
-Schooling
-Small (well suited to a 5-10 gallon tank)
-interesting to watch
-begginer level care requirements
-cost of less than $3 per individual at the average pet store

I don't mind if the fish need a heater, cause the kit I'm thinking
about comes with one. I do mind if they get nippy like tiger barbs
reputedly do in small schools.

AMATE PISCEM TUUM (Latin for 'love your fish')
-Kathy

> OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
> $30 for the tank kit
> $5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the live ones grow
> like crazy in a small tank)
> $12-20 for the fish
> $5 for the water purifier
> $2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes)
> $4??? for substate unless I can use my glass pebbles
> Altogether about $60. Is that a good price to pay for my first
> aquarium setup? Am I forgetting anything?
> -Kathy
>
>
>





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23991 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Kathy,



I just had another fish idea.

If you go with the 10 gallon(better choice, much more stable!)

look into getting a tank of Male Endler's Livebearers.

The reason I say Males is that these can breed like Guppies(They are not Guppies no matter what?the pet stores?says) and can quickly over populate your?tank.

The males are the prettier of the species.


Scroll down to the lower pictures.
http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?fwlivebearers&1189732452

More pictures
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&q=endlers

--Mike


Here's what I want from my hypothetical fish:
-Colorful
-Schooling
-Small (well suited to a 5-10 gallon tank)
-interesting to watch
-begginer level care requirements
-cost of less than $3 per individual at the average pet store



-----Original Message-----
From: kl_whitney <kwhitney@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 3:14 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group...

?_._,___

________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23992 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Hi Lenny,



My local fish friends told me to use the Home and Garden Peat moss, but I was not comfortable telling someone to try it until I had tried it myself.  I may be packing up my fish room and moving soon and have not had a chance to try it yet. 



I agree, just gradually acclimate the fish to the local pH.



Mike




Most lawn & garden places should have it. Do a Google on 'peat moss'
ttp://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=peat%20moss and you will
ind it every where. There's even a site called peatmoss.com for the Peat
oss Association.




-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 2:08 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments



Most lawn & garden places should have it. Do a Google on 'peat moss'
ttp://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=peat%20moss and you will
ind it every where. There's even a site called peatmoss.com for the Peat
oss Association.
I did an eBay search and only found a few listings but here is one for $2.00
ut unfortunately $5.00 for shipping...
ttp://cgi.ebay.com/Peat-moss-Peatmoss-for-hatch-killifish-killi-fish_W0QQit
mZ200079560498QQihZ010QQcategoryZ66795QQcmdZViewItem
Aquabid only had one seller also but they only ship to the EU...
ttp://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?breeding&1190233748 ...
o maybe it is getting harder to find but I'm sure the bigger lawn & garden
tores should still have it.
BUT... as I said in my previous reply, most fish will do fine at the 7.8 pH
ou have from your tap and it will likely come down a little as your tank
atures with fish/plants and filtration going.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
ehalf Of Deenerz@...
ent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 3:30 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments

oah,
What do you keep or plan on keeping in this tank?
When I started keeping fish I had the similiar idea that because the book
aid a fish was found in 7.0 pH that I had to change the tank to match. I
ad a lot of wil pH swings and ended up doing more harm to my fish.
Now I just acclimate all my fish to water comes out of my tap.
The exception to altering the water in my fish room is I keep crushed coral
n a few lake Tanganyikan tanks. I was finding shells for my shell dwellers
aper thin and crumbling.
Peat moss is getting more difficult to find. Recently I checked about 7
tores in my area, four of them non chain shops, and had zero luck finding
ny. A friend that works at a shop about 45 miles from me said she has some
t the store. I tried several of the big online fish retailers and had no
uck.
You may want to try and contact Killifish keepers as they tend to use it a
ot.
Mike
When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH through
hemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done a thing
as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would put some
eat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat that is
ade for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for this
i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
y pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
reshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
aramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to 7.0
s a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
Thank you so much everyone. :)
-----Original Message-----
rom: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@... <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> >
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
ent: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:39 am
ubject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH through
hemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done a thing
as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would put some
eat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat that is
ade for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for this
i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
y pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
reshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
aramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to 7.0
s a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
Thank you so much everyone. :)

o virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
:22 PM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
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e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23993 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
You could probably squeeze a school (6) of neon's into a 5G but you would
need to buy the tank and get it set up and cycled first before buying the
fish. It would take 2-6 weeks to fishless cycle the tank using plain
ammonia method. If you can get a piece of filter media from someone's
healthy tank on the day you start the cycling process, you could have it
cycled even faster than the 2 weeks time. This is the only way you would be
able to add a school of neon's to the tank from the start. If you try to
cycle with fish, you would have to add one neon at a time and take a couple
of months to fully stock the tank and you might still lose a few of the fish
to the ammonia/nitrite spikes that happen when cycling.

The glass pebbles would be fine as a substrate and it doesn't have to be
deep. I keep around 1/2" of substrate in my non-planted tanks. It makes it
easier to keep clean with the weekly gravel (pebble) vacuums. The majority
of your nitrifying bacteria (that you will grow when you "cycle" the tank)
will be living in the filter media. Read my blog on filter maintenance also
so you don't fall into the newbie trap of changing filters every few weeks
which causes your tank to go into mini-cycles and stresses or kills fish.
Plus, since you are on a budget, not trashing filters is the way to go for
saving money too! I still have the same filter cartridges and media after
several years.

In the old days, UGF's (under gravel filters) were the norm and planted
tanks were more common, so people kept 2"-3" of substrate but now that we
have HOB's (hang on back) filters as the most common type for smaller tanks
and plastic/silk plants, you don't really need a deep substrate, which is
harder to keep clean and can harbor bad bacteria as well.

With a 5G tank, you could vacuum the gravel once a week or so and do twice
weekly 1G PWC's (partial water changes) presuming you will be slightly
overstocked with squeezing a school of fish into a smaller tank.

Have you read up on fishless cycling yet? It would be the best way to
prepare the tank and make it safe for your fish. Otherwise, trying to cycle
with neon's will likely kill them. When we talk about "cycling" in the fish
hobby, it refers to "The Nitrogen Cycle". I have lots of newbie info on my
blog on my page called "A to Z of fish keeping" so check it out.

Also, if you haven't already, read Hailey's 10G stocking list for some fish
that may also be suitable in a 5G but many of the fish on that list won't be
suitable.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 4:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
OK, yup. I liked the suggestion of the 5 gallon kit at walmart so much I
looked into it. Costs about $30. It's worth it, IMO. I'll have to see how my
finances are when I make the final decision. So can I keep a school of six
or seven little fish in there? And will glass pebbles work as substrate, or
should I get gravel and use glass pebbles as decorations?
I'm still looking for suggestions as far as fish go. I really like neon
tetras, but some say they're hard to keep. I want something colorful that
won't cost an arm and a leg. Like less than $20 for all 6(?) fish.
I'll do my cost estimate here, cause I just want to get it figured out.
OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
$30 for the tank kit
$5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the live ones grow like
crazy in a small tank) $12-20 for the fish
$5 for the water purifier
$2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes) $4??? for substate unless I
can use my glass pebbles Altogether about $60. Is that a good price to pay
for my first aquarium setup? Am I forgetting anything?
-Kathy

> You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)
>
> Not many fish will do well for very long in it though... except
for maybe a
> Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but you state you do
not want a
> Betta.
>
> Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a single fish from
one of
> those species will not do well either. For fish that stay under
3" as full
> grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which means 1" of fish
for each
> gallon of water so that means you will only be able to have a
single 1"
> fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work for fish that
get over
> 3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty fish.)
>
> If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or 5G, you could
possibly go
> with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are very personable
and
> entertaining.
>
> You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or maybe even free at
sites like
> FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a 10G, there is a
list of
> suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my blog (link in sig
and on
> the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")
>
> For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank' and you might
find other
> suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles on fish that
stay around
> 1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to have a few of
them.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting
fish
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in
> college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And I'm a
pet person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment
like an
> aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively
> resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a desktop
aquarium
> (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest one I've seen
is $25) or
> a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the fish), not sure
whether I
> would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the desktop aquarium. As
for what
> fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like neon tetras or
tiger barbs.
> I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm
not sure
> whether that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish,
> they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small tank or
fishbowl.
> I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't like them. Can't
explain
> why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And
> any input as to whether I should get a desktop aquarium or a large
bowl
> would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in
> flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a plant, should
I get a
> real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23994 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Which canister filter is the best?
I currently have a hang on whisper filter on my 40 gallon tank, but
would like to upgrade to a canister filter that I can use for when I
upgrade to a new tank, which I want to be bigger than 55 but smaller
than 180. I want something moderatly priced, but want it to be able to
be used in a larger tank. I've looked at some brands, but want to know
the best one to get on a moderate budget. The whole thing confuses me
and I want opions, not against ordering one online either. Also, do I
need a UV sterilizer for my 40 gal.? will I need one for my larger tank
once I upgrade? Thanks

-Chanzy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23995 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I have used Fluval filters. I would advise against a U.V filter. But that is
my opinion. I try to keep my aquarium as natural as possible. Plus a U.V
filter keeps you from growing the stuff that baby fish eat. It basically
sterilizes the aquarium. In the end run making the fish weaker in my opinion.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23996 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Thanks, as I suspected, neon tetras are on there. I think that's
what I want. I might have lined up a ten gallon tank but it won't be
for a while now...probably this winter is when I'll actually get it
set up. I just figure it's best to do the research ahead of time.
That's why I joined this group so soon before being able to get an
aquarium set up....I am a firm believer that anyone who wants a pet
should spend a few months reseaching the animal before buying it.
-Kathy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Wanna get married? LOL
>
> Did you look at the list of suitable fish for a 10G tank on my
blog? Print
> that out when you go to your LFS and see what they have from that
list.
>
> Look at the bright side with fish... at least you don't have to
tell a guy
> that you have herpes... ooops.. I meant herps. ;-)
>
> I still think if you checked around on FreeCycle or Craigslist, you
could
> find a 10G setup for free or next to nothing. When I was looking
for my BIG
> tank, I saw 10G's all the time.
>
> I think the schools policy concerning singles is that you are less
likely to
> be home very much to take care of your pets, compared to married
folks. I
> mean... there's rush parties, football parties, ladies nights, party
> weekends, etc., etc., etc.... oh yeah.. and the occasional class
and library
> visit to study. Geeez... I miss college! :(
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23997 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
I managed to keep fish while in school, both prep and college (they
tried, but I am not, nor have I ever been, a preppie). I kept 5.5 and 10
gallon tanks. The only real problem was moving the fish home for summer
(I did not have the extended winter break like some places have now,
with the longest break during the year being about 10 days or so, as I
recall). Once home, the fish were placed in my father's tanks where they
lived out the rest of their lives, while I started all over again.

It is not the easiest task in the world to have a community 5 gallon
tank, but it can be done. You really need to be selective with your
fish, and keep the overcrowding to a minimum. My favorite was a pair of
dwarf gouramis, three zebrafish, and a couple of small corys. I can hear
the screams of anguish now, but I already had years of Fishkeeping
experience behind me in a much less technological age. The biological
cycle was not known to me until after I graduated from college.

Two things you also need to watch are temperature stability, unless
heating/cooling in dorms has gotten much better since the early 70's,
and water quality. This is because you will be dealing with a very small
volume of water. I did water changes every couple of days.

You are a student, and if you have not learned the art of scrounging,
you should. Today it is so much easier with the web, and places like
Freecycle and Craig's List available to you. Doesn't even take much
work. The Freecycle group I belong to has 876 members and aquarium
equipment comes up regularly on this list. The price cannot be beat,
even at Walmart--free. You can probably find everything you need at very
little cost except for your test kits, mainly because you want to ensure
you have fresh reagents. Depending on the amount of room you have, you
may even be able to go with a larger tank than you are considering.

Do your research, ask your questions, and you should do well.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 8:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish

Hi all,
I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And
I'm a pet person.
Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like
an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a
desktop aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest
one I've seen is $25) or a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good
for the fish), not sure whether I would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I
went with the desktop aquarium. As for what fish to put in, I want
small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs. I've heard
that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure whether
that's true.
I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish, they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small
tank or fishbowl. I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
like them. Can't explain why, they just bug me.
I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And any input as to whether I should get a desktop
aquarium or a large bowl would also be appreciated.
Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a
plant, should I get a real one or a plastic one?
I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
-Kathy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23998 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
One does not want to try to change pH. In order to lower the pH you need
to overcome the buffers that maintain the pH you have, and that is
dangerous. You might end up doing what is known as "breaking the buffer"
and the pH will crash to very low levels. You can use the pH listed for
various species of fish as a guide, not a bible. In fact some fish are
naturally found in waters that are supposedly out of their pH range
according to the literature. It appears that these fish have forgotten
to do their homework and read the literature as to how they are supposed
to be living and all that.

What you should be looking for are fish that will live in your water
conditions rather than trying to make the water conditions suitable to
the fish you want.

You mentioned that your kits continue to show a high pH even after using
distilled water. You should have seen a difference. I'd suspect that the
kit is no good, or at least the reagents are no good. Do they have an
expiration date on them? If not assume the reagents are bad. Shop for a
new kit and look for one that has expiration dates on the reagents used.
I like the Aqua-Tru kits, if you can find them. They are easy to use and
it is hard to get a bad reading because of the vials and color strips
used. The reagents are also dated.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 1:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments

When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that
I would put some peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard
to find peat that is made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there
must be a reason for this (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10 gallon
freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All other
paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the pH to
7.0 as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?

Thank you so much everyone. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 23999 From: William Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Another suggestion is freshwater shrimp instead of fish in a nano tank.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)
>
> Not many fish will do well for very long in it though... except for
maybe a
> Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but you state you do not
want a
> Betta.
>
> Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a single fish from
one of
> those species will not do well either. For fish that stay under 3"
as full
> grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which means 1" of fish for each
> gallon of water so that means you will only be able to have a single 1"
> fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work for fish that
get over
> 3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty fish.)
>
> If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or 5G, you could
possibly go
> with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are very personable and
> entertaining.
>
> You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or maybe even free at
sites like
> FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a 10G, there is a
list of
> suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my blog (link in sig
and on
> the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")
>
> For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank' and you might find
other
> suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles on fish that
stay around
> 1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to have a few of them.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in
> college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And I'm a pet
person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like an
> aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively
> resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a desktop aquarium
> (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest one I've seen is
$25) or
> a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the fish), not sure
whether I
> would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the desktop aquarium. As
for what
> fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like neon tetras or
tiger barbs.
> I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure
> whether that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish,
> they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small tank or
fishbowl.
> I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't like them. Can't explain
> why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And
> any input as to whether I should get a desktop aquarium or a large bowl
> would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in
> flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a plant, should I
get a
> real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
>
>
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24000 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
In a message dated 9/13/2007 8:13:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
steve@... writes:

Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.)

Did you try pure distilled water or did your do partial water changes with
distilled water. Did you test right after your water changes. You probably will
not notice the change on the test kits right away. I have two tanks that are
around a ph of 5. One is kept that way with an original start of R.O water
with driftwood and other organic matter. and I keep a pair of wild bettas with
2 different pairs of apisto chiclids. In the other tank I started with my
local tap water which is 8.4. and after time with the driftwood and and other
organic material even with partial water changes it droped over time to a ph
of 5. So it is acidic but with a higher hardness level. I keep Vallenti
Chocolate gouramis , licorice gouramis, and rummy nose tetras and neon tetras. To
me driftwood is just as good at lowering PH as peat. Just make sure you dont
get the coated driftwood that is covered in a sealer.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24001 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
Lenny,

Even a thorough vacuuming as you propose will still leave a lot in the
substrate that will end up floating in the tank, since you are likely to
run out of water before you run out of detritus. Areas that are covered
by tank decorations and plants are not normally accessable and are
likely to harbor areas of anaerobic activity. Moving these out of the
tank will likely cause the problem that gravel vacuuming is meant to
help resolve.

Just a side note here. While we are mentioning anaerobic areas as being
bad, some of the bacteria found in anaerobic areas are helpful in that
they remove nitrates from the water. However the side effects of this
process and that of other anaerobic bacteria result in compounds, when
released into the water column, that are harmful to our fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 2:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

Steve,

I did say to vacuum the gravel several times really good to remove ALL
detritus before doing the gravel change out. This should take care of
any
anaerobic areas but I agree with you about pointing it out in more
detail.
Thanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 7:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

The problem you will face in removing the substrate that no one hs yet
touched upon lays in areas that may not have been disturbed (for lack of
a
better word at the moment) for some time. In these areas you are likely
to
find anaerobic bacteria, and the foul substances they may produce, like
hydrogen sulfide gas. This is probably why the people at the shop are
worried about you losing fish.

You'll also be stirring up a lot of stuff, even with regular gravel
cleaning
in hand, so you may want, after you remove the first portion, to add
some
additional filtration to help control the debris.

One path you may want to consider taking is to plan on doing it one
afternoon, bagging all your fish, draining the tank into containers so
you
are saving the water, pull the plants and put on and cover with wet
newspaper, change out all your gravel, rinse the tank with water, and
place
in your new substrate, add some of your water, the plants, the fish, and
finish filling the tank. Oh, your filters can be kept running on the
containers you use to hold the tank water so you will not lose many of
the
bacteria important to the biological cycle.

After you have done this, your plants will go through a period of
transplant
shock, and it may take a while for everything to get back to normal in
your
tank. No matter how you do it, it is a project, and you may still lose
fish
and/or plants through your efforts. It is, indeed, one of those projects
you
do not want to undertake lightly.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 11:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing substrate

I am wanting to change the substrate in my 55 planted tank. Right now it
is
blue but I want to go a more natural color. I was told that if I done
this
then I would lose every single fish in the tank. I have 2 hob filters
running. Would this change be as deadly as the lfs says? I plan on
adding
the gravel and them putting the "old" gravel in pantyhose and place them
in
the tank for help in seeding the gravel with bacteria. Would this cut
down
on the losses that will happen. I don't want to lose any of my fish.
Does
the gravel hold 100% of the bacteria? I thought the filters held the
majority of the bacteria along with whatever else is in the tank. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24002 From: Emilie Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
Lenny,

thanks for all your detailed info.

i have been to your blog now, several times.

i have been keeping fish for awhile now, but always
good to get more info. as--i took a 4 yr break.

your posts are appreciated.

Emilie
--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> You could probably squeeze a school (6) of neon's
> into a 5G but you would
> need to buy the tank and get it set up and cycled
> first before buying the
> fish. It would take 2-6 weeks to fishless cycle the
> tank using plain
> ammonia method. If you can get a piece of filter
> media from someone's
> healthy tank on the day you start the cycling
> process, you could have it
> cycled even faster than the 2 weeks time. This is
> the only way you would be
> able to add a school of neon's to the tank from the
> start. If you try to
> cycle with fish, you would have to add one neon at a
> time and take a couple
> of months to fully stock the tank and you might
> still lose a few of the fish
> to the ammonia/nitrite spikes that happen when
> cycling.
>
> The glass pebbles would be fine as a substrate and
> it doesn't have to be
> deep. I keep around 1/2" of substrate in my
> non-planted tanks. It makes it
> easier to keep clean with the weekly gravel (pebble)
> vacuums. The majority
> of your nitrifying bacteria (that you will grow when
> you "cycle" the tank)
> will be living in the filter media. Read my blog on
> filter maintenance also
> so you don't fall into the newbie trap of changing
> filters every few weeks
> which causes your tank to go into mini-cycles and
> stresses or kills fish.
> Plus, since you are on a budget, not trashing
> filters is the way to go for
> saving money too! I still have the same filter
> cartridges and media after
> several years.
>
> In the old days, UGF's (under gravel filters) were
> the norm and planted
> tanks were more common, so people kept 2"-3" of
> substrate but now that we
> have HOB's (hang on back) filters as the most common
> type for smaller tanks
> and plastic/silk plants, you don't really need a
> deep substrate, which is
> harder to keep clean and can harbor bad bacteria as
> well.
>
> With a 5G tank, you could vacuum the gravel once a
> week or so and do twice
> weekly 1G PWC's (partial water changes) presuming
> you will be slightly
> overstocked with squeezing a school of fish into a
> smaller tank.
>
> Have you read up on fishless cycling yet? It would
> be the best way to
> prepare the tank and make it safe for your fish.
> Otherwise, trying to cycle
> with neon's will likely kill them. When we talk
> about "cycling" in the fish
> hobby, it refers to "The Nitrogen Cycle". I have
> lots of newbie info on my
> blog on my page called "A to Z of fish keeping" so
> check it out.
>
> Also, if you haven't already, read Hailey's 10G
> stocking list for some fish
> that may also be suitable in a 5G but many of the
> fish on that list won't be
> suitable.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 4:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to this group;
> thinking about getting fish
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> >
> OK, yup. I liked the suggestion of the 5 gallon kit
> at walmart so much I
> looked into it. Costs about $30. It's worth it, IMO.
> I'll have to see how my
> finances are when I make the final decision. So can
> I keep a school of six
> or seven little fish in there? And will glass
> pebbles work as substrate, or
> should I get gravel and use glass pebbles as
> decorations?
> I'm still looking for suggestions as far as fish go.
> I really like neon
> tetras, but some say they're hard to keep. I want
> something colorful that
> won't cost an arm and a leg. Like less than $20 for
> all 6(?) fish.
> I'll do my cost estimate here, cause I just want to
> get it figured out.
> OK, I'm looking at a total cost of:
> $30 for the tank kit
> $5-7 for two fake plants (recommended to me b/c the
> live ones grow like
> crazy in a small tank) $12-20 for the fish
> $5 for the water purifier
> $2 for fish food (general tropical fish flakes)
> $4??? for substate unless I
> can use my glass pebbles Altogether about $60. Is
> that a good price to pay
> for my first aquarium setup? Am I forgetting
> anything?
> -Kathy
>
> > You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)
> >
> > Not many fish will do well for very long in it
> though... except
> for maybe a
> > Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but
> you state you do
> not want a
> > Betta.
> >
> > Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a
> single fish from
> one of
> > those species will not do well either. For fish
> that stay under
> 3" as full
> > grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which
> means 1" of fish
> for each
> > gallon of water so that means you will only be
> able to have a
> single 1"
> > fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work
> for fish that
> get over
> > 3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty
> fish.)
> >
> > If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or
> 5G, you could
> possibly go
> > with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are
> very personable
> and
> > entertaining.
> >
> > You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or
> maybe even free at
> sites like
> > FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a
> 10G, there is a
> list of
> > suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my
> blog (link in sig
> and on
> > the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")
> >
> > For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank'
> and you might
> find other
> > suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles
> on fish that
> stay around
> > 1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to
> have a few of
> them.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of kl_whitney
> > Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking
> about getting
> fish
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most
> student housing
> (I'm in
> > college) won't let me keep anything but fish for
> pets. And I'm a
> pet person.
> > Figure I'll do my research before getting into a
> big commitment
> like an
> > aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any
> pet should be
> extensively
> > resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking
> either a desktop
> aquarium
> > (expensive for a college student, lol, the
> cheapest one I've seen
> is $25) or
> > a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the
> fish), not sure
> whether I
> > would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the
> desktop aquarium. As
> for what
> > fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like
> neon tetras or
> tiger barbs.
> > I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large
> fishbowls, but I'm
> not sure
> > whether that's true.
> > I've been doing a little research, and I know that
> I don't want
> goldfish,
> > they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in
> a small tank or
> fishbowl.
> > I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
> like them. Can't
> explain
> > why, they just bug me.
> > I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I
> do start my
> fishtank. And
> > any input as to whether I should get a desktop
> aquarium or a large
> bowl
> > would also be appreciated.
> > Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have
> glass pebbles like
> you use in
> > flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get
> a plant, should
> I get a
> > real one or a plastic one?
> > I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> > -Kathy
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 -
> Release Date: 9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Emilie
photography website: ashbyyokosuka.smugmug.com



____________________________________________________________________________________
Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24003 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
That's true William. I find that my cherry shrimp don't have a lot of
personality compared to my fish. At least my fish are happy to see me when
I come to their tank (usually to feed them) but the shrimp are more like
cats compared to dogs... the shrimp could care less about me. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 10:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish

Another suggestion is freshwater shrimp instead of fish in a nano tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You could have a "Pet Rock" in a 1G. ;-)
>
> Not many fish will do well for very long in it though... except for
maybe a
> Betta and even it should have 2.5G or more, but you state you do not
want a
> Betta.
>
> Most smaller type fish like to be in schools so a single fish from
one of
> those species will not do well either. For fish that stay under 3"
as full
> grown fish, you can use the 1" guideline which means 1" of fish for
> each gallon of water so that means you will only be able to have a single
1"
> fish. (Disclaimer - The 1" guideline does not work for fish that
get over
> 3" as adults or for some more aggressive or dirty fish.)
>
> If you can go a little bigger... maybe a 2.5G or 5G, you could
possibly go
> with an african dwarf frog (ADF) which I hear are very personable and
> entertaining.
>
> You should look at a 10G kit from Wal-Mart or maybe even free at
sites like
> FreeCycle.org or Craigslist.org If you go with a 10G, there is a
list of
> suitable fish and stocking recommendations on my blog (link in sig
and on
> the right side, see "Hailey's 10G Stocking List")
>
> For more info, do a Google search on 'nano tank' and you might find
other
> suggestions of micro fish. I've read some articles on fish that
stay around
> 1/2" as full grown adults so you might be able to have a few of them.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
(I'm in
> college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And I'm a pet
person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment like
> an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
extensively
> resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a desktop
> aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the cheapest one I've
> seen is
$25) or
> a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good for the fish), not sure
whether I
> would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I went with the desktop aquarium. As
for what
> fish to put in, I want small schooling fish like neon tetras or
tiger barbs.
> I've heard that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not
> sure whether that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
goldfish,
> they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a small tank or
fishbowl.
> I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't like them. Can't
> explain why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
fishtank. And
> any input as to whether I should get a desktop aquarium or a large
> bowl would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
you use in
> flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a plant, should I
get a
> real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date: 9/12/2007
5:22 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24004 From: Emilie Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: ...questions
Mike,

thanks for al these suggestions.

i might just get some Endlers!!! (need to do more
research to see if they will go w/ my overall tank)

but i LIKE THE IDEA of these guys-- :)

Emilie

--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Kathy,
>
>
>
> I just had another fish idea.
>
> If you go with the 10 gallon(better choice, much
> more stable!)
>
> look into getting a tank of Male Endler's
> Livebearers.
>
> The reason I say Males is that these can breed like
> Guppies(They are not Guppies no matter what?the pet
> stores?says) and can quickly over populate
> your?tank.
>
> The males are the prettier of the species.
>
>
> Scroll down to the lower pictures.
>
http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?fwlivebearers&1189732452
>
> More pictures
>
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&q=endlers
>
> --Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24005 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: My new cost estimate/ramblings/questions WAS: New to this group
Hi Kathy, Glad to see you are now considering getting a 10 gallon
tank. I'll bet you didn't expect to be graduating so fast from a 1
gallon tank, to a 5 gallon tank and now a 10 gallon tank, but keep in
mind that the larger the tank volume, the more stable the water will
tend to remain (not to mention the additional choices you'll have in
fish).

Just a few things to consider -- while Neon Tetras used to be one of
the first choices of beginners, with much longevity, this species
does not tend to be as hardy as it used to be before it started being
raised in the Far East. Increasingly, beginners are unfortunately
having more and more problems with this species, now raised in large
numbers in Asia, in adapting them to their tanks. I would
wholeheartedly recommend a small school of Cardinal Tetras in place
of Neons until you get more experience. They are a bit larger, but
don't take up much more room and they are much hardier at present.
As a general rule, most schooling Barbs and Tetras are said to best
be kept in odd numbers, although as I see it this is mainly due to
control the aggressiveness of some species (like Tiger Barbs, and
more milder but still contentious Zebra Danios, etc.).

Now, the above choice of fish (as is any other Tropical fish) is
totally dependent upon how stabile you can maintain the room
temperature with a heater vs. how much the room temperature may
fluctuate, directly acting on how efficient the aquarium heater will
remain at maintaining a desired temperature. If you foresee
difficulties along these lines, I'd suggest looking at White Cloud
Mountain Minnows (almost as colorful as Neons) which don't require
tropical temperatures and which can take lower temperatures in
stride. At one time, they were called the "poor man's Neon" when the
llatter species was much more expensive.

As for the substrate you're thinking of, keep in mind that the large
the individual pieces, the larger will be the gaps in between them
allowing uneaten food to fall down between the the pieces where it
can't be cleaned up by the fish. By your description of your
substrate of choice, somehow I'm picturing quite large "granuals"
compared to more conventional aquarium gravel. If I'm wrong in this
assumption, your choice should be fine, provided it has no sharp
edges, but thought I'd throw this out there for consideration.

Additionally, you might want to look into getting a couple of small
catfish (Corydoras, for instance) to help clean up any food that
falls to the bottom -- if you go with a tropical/heated tank. BTW,
any catfish's barbels will get quickly worn away if the substrate is
too rough. Lots of luck in your planning and keep us posted. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kl_whitney" <kwhitney@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks, as I suspected, neon tetras are on there. I think that's
> what I want. I might have lined up a ten gallon tank but it won't
be
> for a while now...probably this winter is when I'll actually get it
> set up. I just figure it's best to do the research ahead of time.
> That's why I joined this group so soon before being able to get an
> aquarium set up....I am a firm believer that anyone who wants a pet
> should spend a few months reseaching the animal before buying it.
> -Kathy
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Wanna get married? LOL
> >
> > Did you look at the list of suitable fish for a 10G tank on my
> blog? Print
> > that out when you go to your LFS and see what they have from that
> list.
> >
> > Look at the bright side with fish... at least you don't have to
> tell a guy
> > that you have herpes... ooops.. I meant herps. ;-)
> >
> > I still think if you checked around on FreeCycle or Craigslist,
you
> could
> > find a 10G setup for free or next to nothing. When I was looking
> for my BIG
> > tank, I saw 10G's all the time.
> >
> > I think the schools policy concerning singles is that you are
less
> likely to
> > be home very much to take care of your pets, compared to married
> folks. I
> > mean... there's rush parties, football parties, ladies nights,
party
> > weekends, etc., etc., etc.... oh yeah.. and the occasional class
> and library
> > visit to study. Geeez... I miss college! :(
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24006 From: aaroberts_06278 Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Back from Australia and new photos!
Hello,

I got back from Australia on a Sat. and then hopped a plane the next
Wed. for Italy. My wife and I had been planning this trip for a year and
we spent four days each in Venice, Florence and Rome. It was awesome,
but I'm glad to be home. I think my cats are happy about it too.

Here are some Australian aquarium photos:

http://tinyurl.com/37noqb <http://tinyurl.com/37noqb>
<http://tinyurl.com/37noqb <http://tinyurl.com/37noqb> >

Enjoy!

Arthur

P.S. If you enjoy my photography and/or sculpture you might be
interested to know that my writing is even better! Check out the reviews
for my novel "The Sorcerer's Song and the Cat's Meow" at amazon.com
here:

http://tinyurl.com/yllhz6 <http://tinyurl.com/yllhz6>
<http://tinyurl.com/yllhz6 <http://tinyurl.com/yllhz6> >





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24007 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Planted Tank Question
Okay, these are really basic questions but I don't know the answers to
them (even though I have had tanks for around 30 years - always with
fish though!):

I presently have a 55 gallon planted tank that has been thriving for
the past ten years or so. I am wanting to set up a small (7.5 gallon)
tank in my kitchen for starting plants. No fish in it - just small
plants that will eventually go into my 55 gallon (or freecycled out once
they grow too big for the small tank).

My questions are:

Do I have to run a filter on a planted tank with no fish? Or will just
an airstone be okay?

Do I have to have a heater on a small planted tank with no fish? Or
will just the house temperature be fine for it?

I plan on setting up the tank with established water from my 55 gallon.
Will I still have to cycle it since there will be no fish?

Thanks for any help!

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24008 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might have
some suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
said, is already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2 cory
cats, a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
these fish better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than
garden. Don't they age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff,
do I have to remove it within a day or so, because I heard it will
change your pH drastically very quickly.

And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank
is cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
gH = 75
chlorine = 0
Alk. buffer = 80
pH = 7.8

and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why I'm
here. :)

Noah


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
many love
> high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
>
> When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
mean that
> you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
run it
> for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
running it,
> then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
my "A to Z
> of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
fishless
> cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
fish.
>
> Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
come down
> naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in
the
> ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches
to raise
> the pH).
>
> What kind of fish are you interested in?
>
> If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find
peat
> moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
stores but
> most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
a new
> tank set up.
>
> While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List"
for
> suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through
> chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
a thing
> (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
put some
> peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat
that is
> made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for
this
> (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to 7.0
> as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24009 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
I'm only trying to help you and I'm not arguing with you and I would like to
take your word that the tank is cycled... but I'm concerned that your tank
may not be cycled since you are showing 0.0ppm for nitrates and from some of
the other info you provided. Nitrate is the end process of the nitrogen
cycle and will continually climb between PWC's unless your tank is heavily
planted since the plants would utilize the nitrogenous compounds as a food
source. Also, it usually takes longer than a month to cycle a tank using
fish and cycling a 10G with 6 fish would cause extreme ammonia/nitrite
spikes.

Are you using any kind of filter media additives that look like whitish
rocks (zeolite)? Or any other filter additives that remove ammonia
(nitrogenous compounds)? While these filter additives seem to perform a
good thing, the downside is that they prevent your tank from ever fully
cycling and growing a sufficient sized nitrifying bacteria colony to support
your tank. If you are ever delayed in changing out the ammonia removing
media, your tank would then experience an ammonia spike that could kill your
fish.

Have you been testing your water daily or frequently over the past month
since you added fish? Did you see the ammonia spike and nitrite spike that
HAS to happen during the nitrogen cycle?

Do you have lots of live plants in the tank?

Also, as I recall, you have a 10G tank so you need to rethink your stocking
since the pleco and dojo loach get FAR TOO BIG for a 10G tank. Please
seriously consider returning or re-homing those two fish to a much larger
tank or they will become stunted in your 10G and suffer many health issues.
The excess hormones they will excrete into your 10G will also cause
potential health issues for your other fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments

I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might have some
suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I said, is
already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2 cory cats,
a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of these fish
better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden. Don't they
age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to remove it
within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH drastically very
quickly.

And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank is
cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
gH = 75
chlorine = 0
Alk. buffer = 80
pH = 7.8

and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why I'm here.
:)

Noah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
many love
> high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
>
> When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
mean that
> you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
run it
> for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
running it,
> then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
my "A to Z
> of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
fishless
> cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
fish.
>
> Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
come down
> naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in
the
> ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches
to raise
> the pH).
>
> What kind of fish are you interested in?
>
> If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find
peat
> moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
stores but
> most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
a new
> tank set up.
>
> While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List"
for
> suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through
> chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
a thing
> (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
put some
> peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat
that is
> made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for
this
> (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to 7.0
> as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date: 9/13/2007
9:48 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24010 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Lenny is right a "0" Nitrate level is just about impossible to maintain.

Nitrates should read somewhere between "0" & "40" ppm.

The fact that you are at "0" is an an indication that your tank has not cycled correctly or your test reagents are not reading correctly.

The only way to lower the nitrates is to do a PWC and soon after the Nitrates will start to climb again.

The pleco and loach will definitely get to large, however they can live in the tank for a short time. With the Bio Load in your tank I don't think you will ever run a "0" nitrate level unless you do PWC on a daily basis and then that would not be healthy for your fish.

John in Nevada

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might have
some suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
said, is already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2 cory
cats, a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
these fish better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than
garden. Don't they age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff,
do I have to remove it within a day or so, because I heard it will
change your pH drastically very quickly.

And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank
is cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
gH = 75
chlorine = 0
Alk. buffer = 80
pH = 7.8

and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why I'm
here. :)

Noah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
many love
> high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
>
> When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
mean that
> you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
run it
> for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
running it,
> then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
my "A to Z
> of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
fishless
> cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
fish.
>
> Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
come down
> naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in
the
> ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches
to raise
> the pH).
>
> What kind of fish are you interested in?
>
> If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find
peat
> moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
stores but
> most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
a new
> tank set up.
>
> While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List"
for
> suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through
> chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
a thing
> (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
put some
> peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat
that is
> made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for
this
> (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to 7.0
> as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24011 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
One other thing that I failed to address in my previous post is the possible
inaccuracy of your test kit(s). What brand and type of test kit(s) are you
using? If you are using the dipsticks, they are prone to being very
inaccurate depending on the conditions that they were stored in prior to
your purchase, the date of manufacturing and whether they were exposed to
high humidity while opened. Have your water re-tested by a reputable LFS or
seriously consider purchasing a good Master Test Kit that uses test tubes
and reagent chemicals to give you more accurate and reliable test results.
I have a blog article about the various Master Test Kits out there and I
know that Steve has recommended the Aqua-Tru Kit but I have not tested that
one so I'll take his word for it being a good kit.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 1:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments

Lenny is right a "0" Nitrate level is just about impossible to maintain.

Nitrates should read somewhere between "0" & "40" ppm.

The fact that you are at "0" is an an indication that your tank has not
cycled correctly or your test reagents are not reading correctly.

The only way to lower the nitrates is to do a PWC and soon after the
Nitrates will start to climb again.

The pleco and loach will definitely get to large, however they can live in
the tank for a short time. With the Bio Load in your tank I don't think you
will ever run a "0" nitrate level unless you do PWC on a daily basis and
then that would not be healthy for your fish.

John in Nevada

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@... <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might have some
suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I said, is
already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2 cory cats,
a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of these fish
better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden. Don't they
age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to remove it
within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH drastically very
quickly.

And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank is
cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
gH = 75
chlorine = 0
Alk. buffer = 80
pH = 7.8

and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why I'm here.
:)

Noah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
many love
> high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
>
> When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
mean that
> you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
run it
> for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
running it,
> then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
my "A to Z
> of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
fishless
> cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
fish.
>
> Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
come down
> naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in
the
> ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches
to raise
> the pH).
>
> What kind of fish are you interested in?
>
> If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find
peat
> moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
stores but
> most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
a new
> tank set up.
>
> While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List"
for
> suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through
> chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
a thing
> (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
put some
> peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat
that is
> made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for
this
> (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to 7.0
> as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date: 9/13/2007
9:48 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24012 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
I have neon tetras, ebony tetras, black skirt tetras and glowlights.
I don't think they're fussy. I really like the glowlights the best. The
neons are neat in that they swim together (there's always one by
itself) as a group so it makes it more interesting to watch them.

I used glass pebbles when I first started with bettas in bowls. It makes
a pretty tank. When I moved the bettas I used the pebbles to "seed"
the new tanks. I have since taken them all out though. It is harder to
keep clean and was rough on my cory's.

Hope this helps some. Keep on with the questions!


Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of kl_whitney
Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 12:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish



Thanks, I'll look into the Walmart aquarium kits. I was thinking of
using glass pebbles as a substrate (do aquarists call it substrate
like herpers do? you know, the stuff on the bottom of the tank.)
Is that OK? The lady at the reliable "mom and pop" pet store said
that glass pebbles are ok. She also told me not to get neon tetras
b/c they're fussy. True?
Thanks again,
Kathy

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> You can get a complete 5 gallon set up at Wal Mart. They have a
> "kit" type of aquarium. It doesn't come with the gravel though.
> One gallon is pretty small and you won't be able to find a heater
> for it. Tropical fish do need the water to be warm to be able to
> thrive. I know there will be more responses for you from folks
> that are more knowledgeable than me. So, good luck and keep
> on researching. You'll be surprised what you find, I was.
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on behalf of kl_whitney
> Sent: Thu 9/13/2007 7:19 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting
fish
>
>
>
> Hi all,
> I'm new. I'm thinking about getting fish b/c most student housing
> (I'm in college) won't let me keep anything but fish for pets. And
> I'm a pet person.
> Figure I'll do my research before getting into a big commitment
like
> an aquarium. (Just FYI, I'm of the opinion that any pet should be
> extensively resarched before you adopt it) I was thinking either a
> desktop aquarium (expensive for a college student, lol, the
cheapest
> one I've seen is $25) or a large fishbowl (cheaper but not as good
> for the fish), not sure whether I would want a 1 or 2 gallon if I
> went with the desktop aquarium. As for what fish to put in, I want
> small schooling fish like neon tetras or tiger barbs. I've heard
> that neon tetras do fine in large fishbowls, but I'm not sure
whether
> that's true.
> I've been doing a little research, and I know that I don't want
> goldfish, they're too much of a hassle and won't be happy in a
small
> tank or fishbowl. I definitely don't want a betta, I really don't
> like them. Can't explain why, they just bug me.
> I'm open to any suggestions for what to get when I do start my
> fishtank. And any input as to whether I should get a desktop
> aquarium or a large bowl would also be appreciated.
> Also, what sort of gravel should I use? I have glass pebbles like
> you use in flower arrangements--will those work? And if I get a
> plant, should I get a real one or a plastic one?
> I'm hoping to get a lot of info here!
> -Kathy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24013 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
I know you are only trying to help Lenny. I am pretty touchy
sometimes...sorry about that.

I am using API test kits, which I hear are good, but I will go with
what you reccommend. I don't want to argue either Lenny. I guess I
may not know for sure it is cycled. the only filter I am using at
this moment and for the last month and a half is the Whisper 10 that
came with the tank. I have stated myself before that i KNOW the loach
and pleco are too big for this setup. I am trying to find someone to
take them. But I am loath to give them back to the lfs store that I
got them from, since in both intances they knew what my setup was,
and failed to warn me of the size issue. The Dojo loach they
practically threw at me. But I have been to ALL the stores within 50
miles of here and I am afraid I concur that today's lfs's know about
as much or less than any beginner. I did indeed see lots of spiking
in ammonia, nitrite and nitrate the week before the levels went down
like this. I have live plants. An "Indian Red Sword" a Java fern, and
some Cobomba.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm only trying to help you and I'm not arguing with you and I
would like to
> take your word that the tank is cycled... but I'm concerned that
your tank
> may not be cycled since you are showing 0.0ppm for nitrates and
from some of
> the other info you provided. Nitrate is the end process of the
nitrogen
> cycle and will continually climb between PWC's unless your tank is
heavily
> planted since the plants would utilize the nitrogenous compounds as
a food
> source. Also, it usually takes longer than a month to cycle a tank
using
> fish and cycling a 10G with 6 fish would cause extreme
ammonia/nitrite
> spikes.
>
> Are you using any kind of filter media additives that look like
whitish
> rocks (zeolite)? Or any other filter additives that remove ammonia
> (nitrogenous compounds)? While these filter additives seem to
perform a
> good thing, the downside is that they prevent your tank from ever
fully
> cycling and growing a sufficient sized nitrifying bacteria colony
to support
> your tank. If you are ever delayed in changing out the ammonia
removing
> media, your tank would then experience an ammonia spike that could
kill your
> fish.
>
> Have you been testing your water daily or frequently over the past
month
> since you added fish? Did you see the ammonia spike and nitrite
spike that
> HAS to happen during the nitrogen cycle?
>
> Do you have lots of live plants in the tank?
>
> Also, as I recall, you have a 10G tank so you need to rethink your
stocking
> since the pleco and dojo loach get FAR TOO BIG for a 10G tank.
Please
> seriously consider returning or re-homing those two fish to a much
larger
> tank or they will become stunted in your 10G and suffer many health
issues.
> The excess hormones they will excrete into your 10G will also cause
> potential health issues for your other fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:52 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
>
> I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might
have some
> suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
said, is
> already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
> 1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2
cory cats,
> a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
these fish
> better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden.
Don't they
> age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to
remove it
> within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH
drastically very
> quickly.
>
> And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank
is
> cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;
>
> Nitrate = 0
> Nitrite = 0
> Ammonia = 0
> gH = 75
> chlorine = 0
> Alk. buffer = 80
> pH = 7.8
>
> and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
> All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
> shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why
I'm here.
> :)
>
> Noah
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
> many love
> > high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
> >
> > When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
> mean that
> > you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
> run it
> > for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
> running it,
> > then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
> my "A to Z
> > of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
> fishless
> > cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
> fish.
> >
> > Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
> come down
> > naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening
in
> the
> > ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that
leaches
> to raise
> > the pH).
> >
> > What kind of fish are you interested in?
> >
> > If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can
find
> peat
> > moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
> stores but
> > most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
> a new
> > tank set up.
> >
> > While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking
List"
> for
> > suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
> >
> > When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
> through
> > chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
> a thing
> > (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
> put some
> > peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find
peat
> that is
> > made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason
for
> this
> > (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> > My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
> gallon
> > freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
> other
> > paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has
been
> > 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
> pH to 7.0
> > as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
> >
> > Thank you so much everyone. :)
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date:
9/13/2007
> 9:48 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24014 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Tank Question
These are just my opinons but for your start up tank I would have some water
movement and also I would have a heater to keep the temp at around the right
temp. Just like land plants aquatic plants do best at certain temperatures.
It should cycle itself because of the organic matter in the aquarium. But you
don't have to specifically cycle it like you would a fish tank.


In a message dated 9/14/2007 8:03:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
browngip@... writes:

Do I have to run a filter on a planted tank with no fish? Or will just
an airstone be okay?

Do I have to have a heater on a small planted tank with no fish? Or
will just the house temperature be fine for it?

I plan on setting up the tank with established water from my 55 gallon.
Will I still have to cycle it since there will be no fish?





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24015 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
The best canister filter will depend on who you ask. You probably will
not go wrong with Ehiem, Fluval, or Marineland canisters. Ehiem is
probably the best of the lot, but it is pricey, and the price will go up
if the dollar keeps losing against the Euro. Fluval has had problems in
the past, particularly with leakage, but they seem to be resolved now.
I've never heard a bad report about the Marineland canisters, but I have
never used one.

As for the sizing, well, a filter that will have more oomph than you
need for a 40 will most certainly not be suitable for a 180, without
being used in tandem with a larger filter. If you increase your tank
size moderately, to a 55, 60, or 75, you may be able to use the same
filter, but, beyond that, you will be looking at a larger filter.

UV can be useful in some situations, but not all. They can be used to
help with the control of floating algae, i.e. green water. They can be
used to help fight disease affecting the whole tank. To use UV as a
prophylactic is probably not a very good idea. In a marine environment,
they may be more helpful to keeping marine inhabitants in good health.
In a pond scenario, they are used primarily for algae control. Better
off to spend the money getting a better canister filter.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?

I currently have a hang on whisper filter on my 40 gallon tank, but
would like to upgrade to a canister filter that I can use for when I
upgrade to a new tank, which I want to be bigger than 55 but smaller
than 180. I want something moderatly priced, but want it to be able to
be used in a larger tank. I've looked at some brands, but want to know
the best one to get on a moderate budget. The whole thing confuses me
and I want opions, not against ordering one online either. Also, do I
need a UV sterilizer for my 40 gal.? will I need one for my larger tank
once I upgrade? Thanks

-Chanzy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24016 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I have Rena Filstar's... a 1 and a 3 and I'm happy with them. I've had the
1 for around 3 years and the 3 for around 2 years. No problems and they
came with the filter media, two different sized open cell sponges and one of
their packs of chem-zorb (which I never used until I needed to remove some
meds once). I still have the same open cell sponges and poly pads, although
I added a micro filter pad and I'm now using Purigen as chemical filtration
since it lasts longer than carbon, changes colors as it gets "dirty" and can
be recharged over and over using bleach solution so it's more cost
effective.

They were the most cost effective available at the time when I was buying
them. I bought one online from MarineDepot.com when it was on sale and the
other from PetsMart local store using their online sale price to save nearly
50% off the shelf price.

The Marineland 350 Pro is nice in that it has the gravel vacuum option where
you can use the filter to vacuum the gravel and then do filter
cleaning/maintenance to get rid of the detritus. You would still need to
do PWC's to add fresh water on a weekly/bi-weekly basis but it's a nice
feature to have built into a canister filter.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?

The best canister filter will depend on who you ask. You probably will not
go wrong with Ehiem, Fluval, or Marineland canisters. Ehiem is probably the
best of the lot, but it is pricey, and the price will go up if the dollar
keeps losing against the Euro. Fluval has had problems in the past,
particularly with leakage, but they seem to be resolved now.
I've never heard a bad report about the Marineland canisters, but I have
never used one.

As for the sizing, well, a filter that will have more oomph than you need
for a 40 will most certainly not be suitable for a 180, without being used
in tandem with a larger filter. If you increase your tank size moderately,
to a 55, 60, or 75, you may be able to use the same filter, but, beyond
that, you will be looking at a larger filter.

UV can be useful in some situations, but not all. They can be used to help
with the control of floating algae, i.e. green water. They can be used to
help fight disease affecting the whole tank. To use UV as a prophylactic is
probably not a very good idea. In a marine environment, they may be more
helpful to keeping marine inhabitants in good health.
In a pond scenario, they are used primarily for algae control. Better off to
spend the money getting a better canister filter.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?

I currently have a hang on whisper filter on my 40 gallon tank, but would
like to upgrade to a canister filter that I can use for when I upgrade to a
new tank, which I want to be bigger than 55 but smaller than 180. I want
something moderatly priced, but want it to be able to be used in a larger
tank. I've looked at some brands, but want to know the best one to get on a
moderate budget. The whole thing confuses me and I want opions, not against
ordering one online either. Also, do I need a UV sterilizer for my 40 gal.?
will I need one for my larger tank once I upgrade? Thanks

-Chanzy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date: 9/13/2007
9:48 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24017 From: William Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I have a Magnum 350 on my 55 with the dual bio wheels. I also have a
large HOB on the tank so that it is more than enough filtration for
the tank and that along with weekly 25 to 40% water changes the fish
are growing and reproducing very rapidly. The plants in the tank are
doing quite well also. I just put aquarium gravel in the canister's
cartridge and put a filter sleeve over the screen. When the sleeve
gets dirty I will rinse it out under tap water (I am only loosing a
few of the good bacteria).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I have Rena Filstar's... a 1 and a 3 and I'm happy with them. I've
had the
> 1 for around 3 years and the 3 for around 2 years. No problems and they
> came with the filter media, two different sized open cell sponges
and one of
> their packs of chem-zorb (which I never used until I needed to
remove some
> meds once). I still have the same open cell sponges and poly pads,
although
> I added a micro filter pad and I'm now using Purigen as chemical
filtration
> since it lasts longer than carbon, changes colors as it gets "dirty"
and can
> be recharged over and over using bleach solution so it's more cost
> effective.
>
> They were the most cost effective available at the time when I was
buying
> them. I bought one online from MarineDepot.com when it was on sale
and the
> other from PetsMart local store using their online sale price to
save nearly
> 50% off the shelf price.
>
> The Marineland 350 Pro is nice in that it has the gravel vacuum
option where
> you can use the filter to vacuum the gravel and then do filter
> cleaning/maintenance to get rid of the detritus. You would still
need to
> do PWC's to add fresh water on a weekly/bi-weekly basis but it's a nice
> feature to have built into a canister filter.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?
>
> The best canister filter will depend on who you ask. You probably
will not
> go wrong with Ehiem, Fluval, or Marineland canisters. Ehiem is
probably the
> best of the lot, but it is pricey, and the price will go up if the
dollar
> keeps losing against the Euro. Fluval has had problems in the past,
> particularly with leakage, but they seem to be resolved now.
> I've never heard a bad report about the Marineland canisters, but I have
> never used one.
>
> As for the sizing, well, a filter that will have more oomph than you
need
> for a 40 will most certainly not be suitable for a 180, without
being used
> in tandem with a larger filter. If you increase your tank size
moderately,
> to a 55, 60, or 75, you may be able to use the same filter, but, beyond
> that, you will be looking at a larger filter.
>
> UV can be useful in some situations, but not all. They can be used
to help
> with the control of floating algae, i.e. green water. They can be
used to
> help fight disease affecting the whole tank. To use UV as a
prophylactic is
> probably not a very good idea. In a marine environment, they may be more
> helpful to keeping marine inhabitants in good health.
> In a pond scenario, they are used primarily for algae control.
Better off to
> spend the money getting a better canister filter.
>
> \\Steve//
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?
>
> I currently have a hang on whisper filter on my 40 gallon tank, but
would
> like to upgrade to a canister filter that I can use for when I
upgrade to a
> new tank, which I want to be bigger than 55 but smaller than 180. I want
> something moderatly priced, but want it to be able to be used in a
larger
> tank. I've looked at some brands, but want to know the best one to
get on a
> moderate budget. The whole thing confuses me and I want opions, not
against
> ordering one online either. Also, do I need a UV sterilizer for my
40 gal.?
> will I need one for my larger tank once I upgrade? Thanks
>
> -Chanzy
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date:
9/13/2007
> 9:48 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24018 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I'm running 3 Rena Filstars, a 1 and a couple of 3's. I LOVE them. They
are 5+ years old and have never been less than 100%perfect.
I bought a new Fluval to run on another tank on the advice of several
friends and it flooded my living room...so I exchanged it...flooded my
living room again...
I now actually do have a Fluval running that I got as part of a set-up on
CraigsList but I checked it constantly for the first few weeks and still
keep it in a kitty litter box, just in case...

Carmen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24019 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Planted Tank Question
Let me preface these comments with this:

I am not a plant expert. I have kept live plants and sometimes they did
well and other times the did not do quite so well.

1. You do not need a filter on the tank, however you do need some water
movement. Whether this movement is accomplished with an airstone or by
some other method--a filter or a small powerhead (maybe even your mixer
set on low <g>).

2. Whether you need a heater or not depend on the plants you will be
growing out and your normal room temperature. For some plants you will
probably need heat, while for others, room temperature will be fine.

3. Without animals, there is nothing to cycle. However, you will still
need to do regular water changes in the tank. This will provide more
minerals for the plants to use for their growth. It will also help to
remove the leaves that plants will inevitably shed. You should also
follow your normal water conditioning routine to remove the chlorine or
chloramines, though these are not as hard on plants as they can be on
animals.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:02 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Planted Tank Question

Okay, these are really basic questions but I don't know the answers to
them (even though I have had tanks for around 30 years - always with
fish though!):

I presently have a 55 gallon planted tank that has been thriving for
the past ten years or so. I am wanting to set up a small (7.5 gallon)
tank in my kitchen for starting plants. No fish in it - just small
plants that will eventually go into my 55 gallon (or freecycled out once
they grow too big for the small tank).

My questions are:

Do I have to run a filter on a planted tank with no fish? Or will just
an airstone be okay?

Do I have to have a heater on a small planted tank with no fish? Or
will just the house temperature be fine for it?

I plan on setting up the tank with established water from my 55 gallon.
Will I still have to cycle it since there will be no fish?

Thanks for any help!

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24020 From: Wendie Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I have fluvals both internal and external. I like the internals but that
darn external is a b... to get started.
I finally got mad enough to look around and am currently using Rena Filstars
on my other tanks and love them. So much easier to work with. I don't miss
having to fight with the darn thing to get it started. Even the internals
can be a pain.
Wendie



----- Original Message -----
From: <eskielists@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:17 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?


I'm running 3 Rena Filstars, a 1 and a couple of 3's. I LOVE them. They
are 5+ years old and have never been less than 100%perfect.
I bought a new Fluval to run on another tank on the advice of several
friends and it flooded my living room...so I exchanged it...flooded my
living room again...
I now actually do have a Fluval running that I got as part of a set-up on
CraigsList but I checked it constantly for the first few weeks and still
keep it in a kitty litter box, just in case...

Carmen



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24021 From: Alex See Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
what can I do to reduce the snails? do i have to get physical :P

On 9/14/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the basic
> dechlor product although there is still some debate about fertilizers for
> plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good websites have opposing
> opinions on that topic.
>
> You can manually remove the snails but snails are a direct result to the
> ecosystem where they live. If they start over-populating, then there is
> something else going on that possibly needs to be fixed. It could be that
> some of your shrimp have died and the snails will eat them and as long as
> there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead shrimp), the snails will
> continue to breed and grow.
>
> I have snails in my cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I even
> have planaria (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on the glass
> at night) but I know it's because I am not able to vacuum the gravel as
> well
> in my cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria are actually part of
> the
> clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel. I stir up the gravel with
> my
> weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance to eat any detritus that they
> like
> but the rest, that doesn't get vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel for
> the planaria or snails.
>
> Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need omnivores to take care of the
> dead
> shrimp or other protein in the tank. Even the small pieces of algae thins
> (pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has protein in it so I'm not sure if
> the
> shrimp are eating this protein or spitting it out when they are feasting
> on
> the piece of algae thin. At least I know the snails and planaria will eat
> up any uneaten protein (including any possible dead shrimp).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
>
> I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend
> suggested
> me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate pentahydrate. is
> it
> safe for shrimps?
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
> 9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24022 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
You can try the old trick of rubberbanding a piece of lettuce to a rock and leaving it in the tank overnight and taking it out every morning with the snails feasting on it. Long process, but it helps.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: kfsee0213@...: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 12:38:30 +0800Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?




what can I do to reduce the snails? do i have to get physical :POn 9/14/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:>> NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the basic> dechlor product although there is still some debate about fertilizers for> plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good websites have opposing> opinions on that topic.>> You can manually remove the snails but snails are a direct result to the> ecosystem where they live. If they start over-populating, then there is> something else going on that possibly needs to be fixed. It could be that> some of your shrimp have died and the snails will eat them and as long as> there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead shrimp), the snails will> continue to breed and grow.>> I have snails in my cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I even> have planaria (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on the glass> at night) but I know it's because I am not able to vacuum the gravel as> well> in my cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria are actually part of> the> clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel. I stir up the gravel with> my> weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance to eat any detritus that they> like> but the rest, that doesn't get vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel for> the planaria or snails.>> Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need omnivores to take care of the> dead> shrimp or other protein in the tank. Even the small pieces of algae thins> (pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has protein in it so I'm not sure if> the> shrimp are eating this protein or spitting it out when they are feasting> on> the piece of algae thin. At least I know the snails and planaria will eat> up any uneaten protein (including any possible dead shrimp).>> Lenny Vasbinder> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>>> -----Original Message-----> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On> Behalf Of gorsford> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?>> I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend> suggested> me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate pentahydrate. is> it> safe for shrimps?>>> No virus found in this outgoing message.> Checked by AVG Free Edition.> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:> 9/12/2007> 5:22 PM>>>>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.> Yahoo! Groups Links>>>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






_________________________________________________________________
Capture your memories in an online journal!
http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24023 From: iowakoi Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Fall in the pond/ predators
Hi guys, It's been a busy summer and now we are expecting frost
tonight!! Just covered the pond with the leaf net and brought in the
tender houseplants.

Monday night was our pond club meeting and I thought I'd pass on some
of the tips from Jamie Beyer. Jamie is a good friend and the founder of
the Central Iowa Water Garden Association. He's great at answering all
kinds of pond questions his email is beyersbog@...
<mailto:beyersbog@...> just let him know I sent you. You can see
his whole article at http://www.pondkeepers.com
<http://www.pondkeepers.com> You have to click on past issues and
download the May issue. Here's the basics of "Water Wolves of the Water
Gardens" about minks and other predators.

I didn't realize that mink are still a big problem in ponds that are
near natural waterways. They will travel to your pond where the fish are
much easier to catch. A mink can wipe out your pond in days over the
winter. In the summer koi swim faster then a mink but in the cooler
weather minks are faster and will climb in the air holes in the pond
after the koi.

Use plastic screen or hardware cloth over your air hole. Use 1x1 inch
welded wire with the edges turned under. Using a strong air pump to keep
the water moving and allows for a good exchange of gases. Pond palaces
combine a air pump with a tunnel.

Providing a hiding place like koi kastles, plant stands, crates can
help. Just make sure what ever you use is large enough for your fish to
swim all the way though and not get trapped under it. Sunshine got
trapped under a pot this summer which killed her and poisoned the rest
of my fish. So be very careful what you use!

Black dye is an emergency measure when dealing with mink or any
predators. Black dye is harmless and fades in just a few days. It
doesn't dye anything but the water. Jamie reccommends it for every pond
over 500 gallons. I knew it was useful in cutting done on algae but
didn't think of it helping hide your fish. It allows for your fish to
hide while giving you time to get rid of the predator.

Minks, otters, muskrats and coons should be trapped and killed. It
seems hard to kill them but most relocated animals are killed in the
wild. They are territorial animals and don't do well being relocated. Or
worse your problem becomes someone else's nightmare. Be sure to connect
your local DNR before you trap anything.

Scarecrows which use pluses of water to startle animals work well as do
dogs! I have no problems with coons since princess can see the pond from
the window and barks at everything.

I'm working on adding the full handout to the site but the pdf program
is not cooperating tonight! I'll try to post more later, Gail

Richdeer3 Pond Supplies
Educating and Equipping Pond Enthusiasts
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com>
richdeer3@... <mailto:richdeer3@...>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24024 From: Alex See Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
ah... that trick. I should get the extra tasty lettuce for their attention

On 9/15/07, Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...> wrote:
>
>
> You can try the old trick of rubberbanding a piece of lettuce to a rock
> and leaving it in the tank overnight and taking it out every morning with
> the snails feasting on it. Long process, but it helps.
>
>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.comFrom>:
> kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.comDate>: Sat, 15 Sep 2007
> 12:38:30 +0800Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp
> safe?
>
>
>
>
> what can I do to reduce the snails? do i have to get physical :POn
> 9/14/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...<GoldLenny%40gmail.com>>
> wrote:>> NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the
> basic> dechlor product although there is still some debate about fertilizers
> for> plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good websites have opposing>
> opinions on that topic.>> You can manually remove the snails but snails are
> a direct result to the> ecosystem where they live. If they start
> over-populating, then there is> something else going on that possibly needs
> to be fixed. It could be that> some of your shrimp have died and the snails
> will eat them and as long as> there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead
> shrimp), the snails will> continue to breed and grow.>> I have snails in my
> cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I even> have planaria
> (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on the glass> at night) but
> I know it's because I am not able to vacuum the gravel as> well> in my
> cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria are actually part of> the>
> clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel. I stir up the gravel with> my>
> weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance to eat any detritus that they>
> like> but the rest, that doesn't get vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel
> for> the planaria or snails.>> Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need
> omnivores to take care of the> dead> shrimp or other protein in the tank.
> Even the small pieces of algae thins> (pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has
> protein in it so I'm not sure if> the> shrimp are eating this protein or
> spitting it out when they are feasting> on> the piece of algae thin. At
> least I know the snails and planaria will eat> up any uneaten protein
> (including any possible dead shrimp).>> Lenny Vasbinder> Fish Blog -
> http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>>> -----Original Message-----> From:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On> Behalf Of
> gorsford> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM> To:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>> Subject:
> [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?>> I have a lot of
> snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend> suggested> me to use his
> " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate pentahydrate. is> it> safe for
> shrimps?>>> No virus found in this outgoing message.> Checked by AVG Free
> Edition.> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release
> Date:> 9/12/2007> 5:22 PM>>>>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below
> it when replying, thanks.>
> ������`��.����.><((((��>.������`��.����.������`��.��><((((��>
> ��.������`��.��. , .������`��..><((((��>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post,
> DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC
> of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was
> re: old subject)" <->
> <��((((><.������`��.����.������`��.��<��((((><��.������`��.��. ,
> .������`��..<��((((><������`��.����.> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP
> in this matter.> Yahoo! Groups Links>>>>[Non-text portions of this message
> have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Capture your memories in an online journal!
> http://www.reallivemoms.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24025 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/14/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Hm. Yes, there are no experation dates that I can see. Damn it. I
guess I will shop for a new test kit, I've had bad luck so far. I
will also rethink my strategy on setup and cycling for when I set up
a bigger tank, at least 55 gallons this time, hopefully more like 80G
in a month or two to house the loach and the pleco and maybe a few
more. I will stop screwing with the water chemistry. My pH is reading
lower now, an apparent drop of .6, which from what I understand would
have been fatal to my fish in that short of a time. And they are
behaving as they always have. But now I will get to work on giving
all of them a really good home. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> One does not want to try to change pH. In order to lower the pH you
need
> to overcome the buffers that maintain the pH you have, and that is
> dangerous. You might end up doing what is known as "breaking the
buffer"
> and the pH will crash to very low levels. You can use the pH listed
for
> various species of fish as a guide, not a bible. In fact some fish
are
> naturally found in waters that are supposedly out of their pH range
> according to the literature. It appears that these fish have
forgotten
> to do their homework and read the literature as to how they are
supposed
> to be living and all that.
>
> What you should be looking for are fish that will live in your water
> conditions rather than trying to make the water conditions suitable
to
> the fish you want.
>
> You mentioned that your kits continue to show a high pH even after
using
> distilled water. You should have seen a difference. I'd suspect
that the
> kit is no good, or at least the reagents are no good. Do they have
an
> expiration date on them? If not assume the reagents are bad. Shop
for a
> new kit and look for one that has expiration dates on the reagents
used.
> I like the Aqua-Tru kits, if you can find them. They are easy to
use and
> it is hard to get a bad reading because of the vials and color
strips
> used. The reagents are also dated.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 1:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
> through chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these
has
> done a thing (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking
that
> I would put some peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty
hard
> to find peat that is made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there
> must be a reason for this (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH
manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has
been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to
> 7.0 as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24026 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Which canister filter is the best?
I have a Rena and an Eheim. I like them both, Eheim pro is quality and no
priming. Rena pro is cost. Same for quietness and efficiency of
filtration.



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 10:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?



I have Rena Filstar's... a 1 and a 3 and I'm happy with them. I've had the

1 for around 3 years and the 3 for around 2 years. No problems and they

came with the filter media, two different sized open cell sponges and one of

their packs of chem-zorb (which I never used until I needed to remove some

meds once). I still have the same open cell sponges and poly pads, although

I added a micro filter pad and I'm now using Purigen as chemical filtration

since it lasts longer than carbon, changes colors as it gets "dirty" and can

be recharged over and over using bleach solution so it's more cost

effective.



They were the most cost effective available at the time when I was buying

them. I bought one online from MarineDepot.com when it was on sale and the

other from PetsMart local store using their online sale price to save nearly

50% off the shelf price.



The Marineland 350 Pro is nice in that it has the gravel vacuum option where

you can use the filter to vacuum the gravel and then do filter

cleaning/maintenance to get rid of the detritus. You would still need to

do PWC's to add fresh water on a weekly/bi-weekly basis but it's a nice

feature to have built into a canister filter.



-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Steve Szabo

Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 6:29 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?



The best canister filter will depend on who you ask. You probably will not

go wrong with Ehiem, Fluval, or Marineland canisters. Ehiem is probably the

best of the lot, but it is pricey, and the price will go up if the dollar

keeps losing against the Euro. Fluval has had problems in the past,

particularly with leakage, but they seem to be resolved now.

I've never heard a bad report about the Marineland canisters, but I have

never used one.



As for the sizing, well, a filter that will have more oomph than you need

for a 40 will most certainly not be suitable for a 180, without being used

in tandem with a larger filter. If you increase your tank size moderately,

to a 55, 60, or 75, you may be able to use the same filter, but, beyond

that, you will be looking at a larger filter.



UV can be useful in some situations, but not all. They can be used to help

with the control of floating algae, i.e. green water. They can be used to

help fight disease affecting the whole tank. To use UV as a prophylactic is

probably not a very good idea. In a marine environment, they may be more

helpful to keeping marine inhabitants in good health.

In a pond scenario, they are used primarily for algae control. Better off to

spend the money getting a better canister filter.



\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]

On Behalf Of chanzyfitz88

Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 9:59 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [AquaticLife] Which canister filter is the best?



I currently have a hang on whisper filter on my 40 gallon tank, but would

like to upgrade to a canister filter that I can use for when I upgrade to a

new tank, which I want to be bigger than 55 but smaller than 180. I want

something moderatly priced, but want it to be able to be used in a larger

tank. I've looked at some brands, but want to know the best one to get on a

moderate budget. The whole thing confuses me and I want opions, not against

ordering one online either. Also, do I need a UV sterilizer for my 40 gal.?

will I need one for my larger tank once I upgrade? Thanks



-Chanzy





No virus found in this outgoing message.

Checked by AVG Free Edition.

Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.18/1007 - Release Date: 9/13/2007

9:48 PM









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.

.��`..��.><((((�>..��`..��..��`..�><((((�> �..��`..�. , ..��`...><((((�>

PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-

<�((((><..��`..��..��`..�<�((((><�..��`..�. , ..��`...<�((((><.��`..��.

We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.

Yahoo! Groups Links



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24027 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
The only differences between garden peat and aquarium peat is that
garden peat may contain fertilizers and/or weed killers, while aquarium
peat may be more finely milled. I have not used peat for a number of
years, but used to use the Jiffy peat pellets which was (is) peat
compressed into pellets, easy to find, purchase in small quantities and
store.

Reduction of pH should be slow and consistent. The fact that you showed
a rapid drop in pH may be another indication that your test kits, at
least for pH, are not reliable.

I don't want to sound like a broken record, but, this does bear
repeating. When you buy test kits, be sure that they have expiration
dates on them. Reagents have a limited shelf life, and once beyond that
become unreliable. Even the test strips that seem to be gaining in
popularity, have a limited shelf life before they become unreliable.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 12:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments

I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might have
some suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
said, is already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2 cory
cats, a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
these fish better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than
garden. Don't they age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff,
do I have to remove it within a day or so, because I heard it will
change your pH drastically very quickly.

And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank
is cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0
Ammonia = 0
gH = 75
chlorine = 0
Alk. buffer = 80
pH = 7.8

and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why I'm
here. :)

Noah


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
many love
> high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
>
> When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
mean that
> you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
run it
> for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
running it,
> then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
my "A to Z
> of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
fishless
> cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
fish.
>
> Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
come down
> naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening in
the
> ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that leaches
to raise
> the pH).
>
> What kind of fish are you interested in?
>
> If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can find
peat
> moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
stores but
> most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
a new
> tank set up.
>
> While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking List"
for
> suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
>
> When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
through
> chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
a thing
> (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
put some
> peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find peat
that is
> made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason for
this
> (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
gallon
> freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
other
> paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has been
> 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
pH to 7.0
> as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
>
> Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24028 From: gorsford Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: What make a bulb a good fresh water plant bulb?
color temp? watt/ gallon?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24029 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
Some people will take a coke bottle and put one of those
weekend feeder chips in it overnight. In the morning the
bottle will be full of snails.

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Alex See
Sent: Fri 9/14/2007 11:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?



what can I do to reduce the snails? do i have to get physical :P

On 9/14/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
>
> NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the basic
> dechlor product although there is still some debate about fertilizers for
> plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good websites have opposing
> opinions on that topic.
>
> You can manually remove the snails but snails are a direct result to the
> ecosystem where they live. If they start over-populating, then there is
> something else going on that possibly needs to be fixed. It could be that
> some of your shrimp have died and the snails will eat them and as long as
> there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead shrimp), the snails will
> continue to breed and grow.
>
> I have snails in my cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I even
> have planaria (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on the glass
> at night) but I know it's because I am not able to vacuum the gravel as
> well
> in my cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria are actually part of
> the
> clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel. I stir up the gravel with
> my
> weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance to eat any detritus that they
> like
> but the rest, that doesn't get vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel for
> the planaria or snails.
>
> Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need omnivores to take care of the
> dead
> shrimp or other protein in the tank. Even the small pieces of algae thins
> (pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has protein in it so I'm not sure if
> the
> shrimp are eating this protein or spitting it out when they are feasting
> on
> the piece of algae thin. At least I know the snails and planaria will eat
> up any uneaten protein (including any possible dead shrimp).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
>
> I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend
> suggested
> me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate pentahydrate. is
> it
> safe for shrimps?
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.485 / Virus Database: 269.13.16/1004 - Release Date:
> 9/12/2007
> 5:22 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Z`·.¸¸.><((((s>.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸><((((s> ¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..><((((s>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <s((((><.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸<s((((><¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..<s((((><·´Z`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24030 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
I just remove them by hand or u could put down a small saucer with some food
in the middle of it. The shrimp will be eating the food too but when u go
to pick up the saucer, the shrimp will scatter and the snails won't be able
to flee so u remove them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?

what can I do to reduce the snails? do i have to get physical :P

On 9/14/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
>
> NO! Do not use hardly any chemicals with your shrimp other than the
> basic dechlor product although there is still some debate about
> fertilizers for plants and whether they are OK or not. Two good
> websites have opposing opinions on that topic.
>
> You can manually remove the snails but snails are a direct result to
> the ecosystem where they live. If they start over-populating, then
> there is something else going on that possibly needs to be fixed. It
> could be that some of your shrimp have died and the snails will eat
> them and as long as there is plenty of food (over feeding or dead
> shrimp), the snails will continue to breed and grow.
>
> I have snails in my cherry shrimp tank (with around 100 shrimp) and I
> even have planaria (little worms that live in the gravel and crawl on
> the glass at night) but I know it's because I am not able to vacuum
> the gravel as well in my cherry shrimp tank so the snails and planaria
> are actually part of the clean up crew for the detritus in the gravel.
> I stir up the gravel with my weekly PWC's to give the shrimp a chance
> to eat any detritus that they like but the rest, that doesn't get
> vacuumed up, goes back into the gravel for the planaria or snails.
>
> Cherry shrimp are herbivores so you need omnivores to take care of the
> dead shrimp or other protein in the tank. Even the small pieces of
> algae thins (pleco food) that I feed my shrimp has protein in it so
> I'm not sure if the shrimp are eating this protein or spitting it out
> when they are feasting on the piece of algae thin. At least I know the
> snails and planaria will eat up any uneaten protein (including any
> possible dead shrimp).
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 6:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Is snail control solution Shrimp safe?
>
> I have a lot of snails in a tank w/ cherry red shrimps. My friend
> suggested me to use his " had-a-snail" solution w/ copper sulfate
> pentahydrate. is it safe for shrimps?
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007
8:59 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24031 From: jett07002 Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: changing substrate
I WROTE THIS REPLY BEFORE but I don't know where it went. Think I
should have seen it by now, so, thinking it's in cyberspace somewhere,
I'll try again. The discussion Steve and Lenny are having about doing
this tank over are all good facts to be concerned about.

>>>>>>>>>Only if this tank is set up a LONG time and it needs a good
cleaning would I go through a tedious job like this.

You are taking a real chance on losing the fish AND the plants if you
run into problems. What kind of problems? Hey, stuff happens and
there's a possibility. If the tank is healthy and everything is fine
with the fish and plants why mess with it? ("They paved paradise to
put up a parking lot." If you don't like the color of the gravel,
why not just put a layer of whatever color you want on top of it. As
long as it is not too thick. Don't cover the crown of the plants more
than they are now. I think tearing down a healthy tank just to change
the color of the gravel is a big mistake.

joet


>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24032 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
OK. If you did see the ammonia and nitrite spikes, then your tank may be
cycled but something is still causing your nitrates to be 0.0ppm and you
don't have enough plants to be doing it.

What kind of filter cartridges are you using in your Whisper 10? I know
Whisper sells one that they call their premiere or something and it has a
section of zeolite (white granules) along with two sections of carbon (black
granules). If you are using this, then you are starving your nitrifying
bacteria and plants of much needed ammonia/nitrites/nitrates.

Since you have the API kits, which are usually pretty good, you can check
their dates by using this info to determine how old your reagent bottles
are. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php

Also, DO NOT fall into the trap that the filter companies try to do by
telling you that you need to change the filter cartridge every few weeks.
Go to my blog and read my article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning and I
show how I "modify" the cartridges that come with many HOB's to remove the
carbon, etc., so that the cartridge can be reused over and over with just a
cleaning (in removed tank water) when you do your regular PWC's. Most of my
filter cartridges/media are as old as the systems that they came with.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments

I know you are only trying to help Lenny. I am pretty touchy
sometimes...sorry about that.

I am using API test kits, which I hear are good, but I will go with what you
reccommend. I don't want to argue either Lenny. I guess I may not know for
sure it is cycled. the only filter I am using at this moment and for the
last month and a half is the Whisper 10 that came with the tank. I have
stated myself before that i KNOW the loach and pleco are too big for this
setup. I am trying to find someone to take them. But I am loath to give them
back to the lfs store that I got them from, since in both intances they knew
what my setup was, and failed to warn me of the size issue. The Dojo loach
they practically threw at me. But I have been to ALL the stores within 50
miles of here and I am afraid I concur that today's lfs's know about as much
or less than any beginner. I did indeed see lots of spiking in ammonia,
nitrite and nitrate the week before the levels went down like this. I have
live plants. An "Indian Red Sword" a Java fern, and some Cobomba.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I'm only trying to help you and I'm not arguing with you and I
would like to
> take your word that the tank is cycled... but I'm concerned that
your tank
> may not be cycled since you are showing 0.0ppm for nitrates and
from some of
> the other info you provided. Nitrate is the end process of the
nitrogen
> cycle and will continually climb between PWC's unless your tank is
heavily
> planted since the plants would utilize the nitrogenous compounds as
a food
> source. Also, it usually takes longer than a month to cycle a tank
using
> fish and cycling a 10G with 6 fish would cause extreme
ammonia/nitrite
> spikes.
>
> Are you using any kind of filter media additives that look like
whitish
> rocks (zeolite)? Or any other filter additives that remove ammonia
> (nitrogenous compounds)? While these filter additives seem to
perform a
> good thing, the downside is that they prevent your tank from ever
fully
> cycling and growing a sufficient sized nitrifying bacteria colony
to support
> your tank. If you are ever delayed in changing out the ammonia
removing
> media, your tank would then experience an ammonia spike that could
kill your
> fish.
>
> Have you been testing your water daily or frequently over the past
month
> since you added fish? Did you see the ammonia spike and nitrite
spike that
> HAS to happen during the nitrogen cycle?
>
> Do you have lots of live plants in the tank?
>
> Also, as I recall, you have a 10G tank so you need to rethink your
stocking
> since the pleco and dojo loach get FAR TOO BIG for a 10G tank.
Please
> seriously consider returning or re-homing those two fish to a much
larger
> tank or they will become stunted in your 10G and suffer many health
issues.
> The excess hormones they will excrete into your 10G will also cause
> potential health issues for your other fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:52 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
>
> I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might
have some
> suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
said, is
> already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
> 1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2
cory cats,
> a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
these fish
> better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden.
Don't they
> age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to
remove it
> within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH
drastically very
> quickly.
>
> And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the tank
is
> cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;
>
> Nitrate = 0
> Nitrite = 0
> Ammonia = 0
> gH = 75
> chlorine = 0
> Alk. buffer = 80
> pH = 7.8
>
> and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
> All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point. Maybe I
> shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why
I'm here.
> :)
>
> Noah
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
> many love
> > high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
> >
> > When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
> mean that
> > you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you just
> run it
> > for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
> running it,
> > then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
> my "A to Z
> > of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
> fishless
> > cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
> fish.
> >
> > Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
> come down
> > naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening
in
> the
> > ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that
leaches
> to raise
> > the pH).
> >
> > What kind of fish are you interested in?
> >
> > If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can
find
> peat
> > moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
> stores but
> > most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good for
> a new
> > tank set up.
> >
> > While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking
List"
> for
> > suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
> >
> > When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the pH
> through
> > chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has done
> a thing
> > (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I would
> put some
> > peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find
peat
> that is
> > made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason
for
> this
> > (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> > My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
> gallon
> > freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
> other
> > paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has
been
> > 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting the
> pH to 7.0
> > as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
> >
> > Thank you so much everyone. :)

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007
8:59 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24033 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: What make a bulb a good fresh water plant bulb?
It is my understanding that Lux (intensity) is the most important
factor.

The most common may be the general rule-of-thumb of Watts per Gallon.
How many will depend on the type of plants you want to keep and the
use of CO2 injection, i.e. - the higher the number, the more likely
you will need to add CO2.

Degrees Kelvin is the Color Temperature and planted tanks are usually
recommended to have 6500 K.
Most Full Spectrum bulbs should be ok.
I use a Compact Flourescent dual bulb that is both 10,000 K and 6500 K.

The type of Bulb Technology is another consideration.

Metal Halide is a great choice for High Intensity and works with
deeper tanks where a flouresent might not reach the bottom.


There is a article in the Files section that explains the different
Terminology in detail - Files > Planted Tank Info > lighting.doc
Let There Be Light! Copyright 2000 by George and Karla Booth


hope that helps


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> color temp? watt/ gallon?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24034 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Thank you for the link for the API date check, Lenny.

As far as the filter cartridges, I already took your advice on that.
But I bought the cheapo refills from Foster & Smith, and the carbon
insert gets clogged within a couple of weeks somethimes. but I just
swish them in water from a PWC, and it back for another couple of
weeks. Next time, I will go with better cartridges, and much more
likely, I will upgrade to a bio-wheel filter. My nitrate and nitrite
have both gone up today, nitrite=.5ppm nitrate=20ppm along with a
very slight increase (.5 or so) in ammonia. I will do a PWC tonight,
as I have been doing quite a bit, I didn't realize that lots of water
changes aren't a good thing. I was doing one every other day for a
while, because of the spikes I was seeing. I just started to be at
the point where I can do once a week, but the levels are pretty high
by the time the week is up. Not enough to cause visible trouble for
the fish, but perhaps stressful. So maybe my tank is just starting to
cycle? I also have two sponge filters, just for added bio filtering,
but I don't suppose they amount to much as far as nitrifying
bacteria, do they? Thanks again everyone for all your help! :)

Noah


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. If you did see the ammonia and nitrite spikes, then your tank
may be
> cycled but something is still causing your nitrates to be 0.0ppm
and you
> don't have enough plants to be doing it.
>
> What kind of filter cartridges are you using in your Whisper 10? I
know
> Whisper sells one that they call their premiere or something and it
has a
> section of zeolite (white granules) along with two sections of
carbon (black
> granules). If you are using this, then you are starving your
nitrifying
> bacteria and plants of much needed ammonia/nitrites/nitrates.
>
> Since you have the API kits, which are usually pretty good, you can
check
> their dates by using this info to determine how old your reagent
bottles
> are. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
>
> Also, DO NOT fall into the trap that the filter companies try to do
by
> telling you that you need to change the filter cartridge every few
weeks.
> Go to my blog and read my article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning
and I
> show how I "modify" the cartridges that come with many HOB's to
remove the
> carbon, etc., so that the cartridge can be reused over and over
with just a
> cleaning (in removed tank water) when you do your regular PWC's.
Most of my
> filter cartridges/media are as old as the systems that they came
with.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:48 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
>
> I know you are only trying to help Lenny. I am pretty touchy
> sometimes...sorry about that.
>
> I am using API test kits, which I hear are good, but I will go with
what you
> reccommend. I don't want to argue either Lenny. I guess I may not
know for
> sure it is cycled. the only filter I am using at this moment and
for the
> last month and a half is the Whisper 10 that came with the tank. I
have
> stated myself before that i KNOW the loach and pleco are too big
for this
> setup. I am trying to find someone to take them. But I am loath to
give them
> back to the lfs store that I got them from, since in both intances
they knew
> what my setup was, and failed to warn me of the size issue. The
Dojo loach
> they practically threw at me. But I have been to ALL the stores
within 50
> miles of here and I am afraid I concur that today's lfs's know
about as much
> or less than any beginner. I did indeed see lots of spiking in
ammonia,
> nitrite and nitrate the week before the levels went down like this.
I have
> live plants. An "Indian Red Sword" a Java fern, and some Cobomba.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm only trying to help you and I'm not arguing with you and I
> would like to
> > take your word that the tank is cycled... but I'm concerned that
> your tank
> > may not be cycled since you are showing 0.0ppm for nitrates and
> from some of
> > the other info you provided. Nitrate is the end process of the
> nitrogen
> > cycle and will continually climb between PWC's unless your tank is
> heavily
> > planted since the plants would utilize the nitrogenous compounds
as
> a food
> > source. Also, it usually takes longer than a month to cycle a tank
> using
> > fish and cycling a 10G with 6 fish would cause extreme
> ammonia/nitrite
> > spikes.
> >
> > Are you using any kind of filter media additives that look like
> whitish
> > rocks (zeolite)? Or any other filter additives that remove
ammonia
> > (nitrogenous compounds)? While these filter additives seem to
> perform a
> > good thing, the downside is that they prevent your tank from ever
> fully
> > cycling and growing a sufficient sized nitrifying bacteria colony
> to support
> > your tank. If you are ever delayed in changing out the ammonia
> removing
> > media, your tank would then experience an ammonia spike that could
> kill your
> > fish.
> >
> > Have you been testing your water daily or frequently over the past
> month
> > since you added fish? Did you see the ammonia spike and nitrite
> spike that
> > HAS to happen during the nitrogen cycle?
> >
> > Do you have lots of live plants in the tank?
> >
> > Also, as I recall, you have a 10G tank so you need to rethink your
> stocking
> > since the pleco and dojo loach get FAR TOO BIG for a 10G tank.
> Please
> > seriously consider returning or re-homing those two fish to a much
> larger
> > tank or they will become stunted in your 10G and suffer many
health
> issues.
> > The excess hormones they will excrete into your 10G will also
cause
> > potential health issues for your other fish.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:52 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
> >
> > I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might
> have some
> > suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
> said, is
> > already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
> > 1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2
> cory cats,
> > a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
> these fish
> > better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden.
> Don't they
> > age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to
> remove it
> > within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH
> drastically very
> > quickly.
> >
> > And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the
tank
> is
> > cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;
> >
> > Nitrate = 0
> > Nitrite = 0
> > Ammonia = 0
> > gH = 75
> > chlorine = 0
> > Alk. buffer = 80
> > pH = 7.8
> >
> > and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
> > All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point.
Maybe I
> > shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why
> I'm here.
> > :)
> >
> > Noah
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
> > many love
> > > high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
> > >
> > > When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
> > mean that
> > > you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you
just
> > run it
> > > for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
> > running it,
> > > then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
> > my "A to Z
> > > of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
> > fishless
> > > cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
> > fish.
> > >
> > > Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
> > come down
> > > naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening
> in
> > the
> > > ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that
> leaches
> > to raise
> > > the pH).
> > >
> > > What kind of fish are you interested in?
> > >
> > > If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can
> find
> > peat
> > > moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
> > stores but
> > > most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good
for
> > a new
> > > tank set up.
> > >
> > > While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking
> List"
> > for
> > > suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > > Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
> > >
> > > When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the
pH
> > through
> > > chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done
> > a thing
> > > (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I
would
> > put some
> > > peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find
> peat
> > that is
> > > made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason
> for
> > this
> > > (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> > > My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
> > gallon
> > > freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
> > other
> > > paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has
> been
> > > 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting
the
> > pH to 7.0
> > > as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
> > >
> > > Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date:
9/14/2007
> 8:59 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24035 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Many breeders use sponge filters exclusively on their tanks. But they
usually have air pumps attached to them to pull the water into the sponge.
Especially those that breed bubble nesting anabantoids. How is your feeding of your
fish. That could lead to raised levels in your nitrogen cycle as well.





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24036 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
I have air pumps hooked to both sponge filters, so there is plenty of
aeration. Er, I suppose I still tend to overfeed my fish, but I think
I am getting control of it. I give a tiny pinch of flake for the
guppies, and an algae wafer each for the cory cats and 2 for the
pleco and 2 for the loach. I feed them twice a day. Periodically I
also feed all of them frozen brine shrimp (If I do, I don't give them
flake or wafers).

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joesbirds@... wrote:
>
> Many breeders use sponge filters exclusively on their tanks. But
they
> usually have air pumps attached to them to pull the water into the
sponge.
> Especially those that breed bubble nesting anabantoids. How is your
feeding of your
> fish. That could lead to raised levels in your nitrogen cycle as
well.
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24037 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Cory cats and a lot of loaches I believe are more carnivorous so they would
probably prefer something like shrimp tablets or something like Hikari sinking
wafers or tetra min tablets


In a message dated 9/15/2007 5:45:36 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
noahburge2b@... writes:

algae wafer each for the cory cats




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24038 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
I'm going to answer within your reply since you cover so many topics.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 3:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments

NOAH SAID:

Thank you for the link for the API date check, Lenny.

As far as the filter cartridges, I already took your advice on that.
But I bought the cheapo refills from Foster & Smith, and the carbon insert
gets clogged within a couple of weeks somethimes. but I just swish them in
water from a PWC, and it back for another couple of weeks. Next time, I will
go with better cartridges, and much more likely, I will upgrade to a
bio-wheel filter.

LENNY'S REPLY:

While there is nothing wrong with bio-wheel filters... I have one myself on
one of my tanks... it's not something you need on your tank. Basically, a
10G should be very lightly stocked so a 2nd whisper 10 would give you more
than enough filtration/circulation and give you redundancy in the event of a
break-down on one of them. Plus, with two filters on a tank, you could do
filter maintenance/cleaning on alternating weeks for them so you would
always have a fully cycled filter running so you won't see mini-cycles if
you did decide to change out a filter cartridge.

NOAH SAID:

My nitrate and nitrite have both gone up today, nitrite=.5ppm nitrate=20ppm
along with a very slight increase (.5 or so) in ammonia. I will do a PWC
tonight, as I have been doing quite a bit, I didn't realize that lots of
water changes aren't a good thing. I was doing one every other day for a
while, because of the spikes I was seeing. I just started to be at the point
where I can do once a week, but the levels are pretty high by the time the
week is up.

Not enough to cause visible trouble for the fish, but perhaps stressful. So
maybe my tank is just starting to cycle? I also have two sponge filters,
just for added bio filtering, but I don't suppose they amount to much as far
as nitrifying bacteria, do they? Thanks again everyone for all your help! :)

Noah

LENNY'S REPLY:

Your nitrates will always rise between PWC's since they are the end result
of the nitrogen cycle. Keeping nitrates below 40ppm and preferably around
20ppm or less is attained by doing regular PWC's to bring in fresh water
that should have <10ppm of nitrates.. and by having live plants that utilize
nitrogenous compounds and phosphates as a food source. You should check
your tap water (read my blog on establishing your tap water baseline) for
all of your tests so you will know what will happen. For example, if your
tap has 0.0ppm nitrate and your tank is up to 40ppm, then when you do a 25%
PWC, it will lower the nitrates to 30ppm. If your tap has 10ppm of
nitrates, then a 25% PWC would only lower the 40 to 32.5ppm.

Since you had a nitrite and ammonia reading, that means your tank isn't
fully cycled or if you changed out your filter cartridge or cleaned it too
much, you could have harmed some of your good nitrifying bacteria. It could
also be because your tank (as you know) is overstocked and the fish are
eating, peeing and pooping more so the waste could be building up in the
gravel and as the detritus breaks down, it puts out more ammonia. I read
one of your other posts after this one and I think you are overfeeding your
fish. You need to very closely monitor how much you feed your fish since
you know you are overstocked. You should cut back until you finally rehome
the pleco and loach.

Until you are able to lower your bioload (fish stocking), you should
continue to monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels and do a PWC whenever
either of them get to 0.5ppm.

NOAH SAID (snipped from above):

"... I didn't realize that lots of water changes aren't a good thing."

LENNY'S REPLY:

I'm not sure why you think that lots of PWC's aren't a good thing. Good
clean fresh water that is safe for the fish is great for them. There is
nothing wrong with doing frequent 10-25% PWC's as long as the water is
similar to the water in the tank. This is why I don't like doing large
PWC's of 50% or more as you could change the water parameters too much, too
fast, and possibly cause stress or shock issues to the fish. If I was stuck
in your position right now, I might be doing daily 10% (1G) PWC's and then
weekly or twice weekly gravel vacuums and filter maintenance once a week or
so... depending on how gunked up they are getting between
maintenance/cleanings.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> OK. If you did see the ammonia and nitrite spikes, then your tank
may be
> cycled but something is still causing your nitrates to be 0.0ppm
and you
> don't have enough plants to be doing it.
>
> What kind of filter cartridges are you using in your Whisper 10? I
know
> Whisper sells one that they call their premiere or something and it
has a
> section of zeolite (white granules) along with two sections of
carbon (black
> granules). If you are using this, then you are starving your
nitrifying
> bacteria and plants of much needed ammonia/nitrites/nitrates.
>
> Since you have the API kits, which are usually pretty good, you can
check
> their dates by using this info to determine how old your reagent
bottles
> are. http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php
> <http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/test_kits_life.php>
>
> Also, DO NOT fall into the trap that the filter companies try to do
by
> telling you that you need to change the filter cartridge every few
weeks.
> Go to my blog and read my article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning
and I
> show how I "modify" the cartridges that come with many HOB's to
remove the
> carbon, etc., so that the cartridge can be reused over and over
with just a
> cleaning (in removed tank water) when you do your regular PWC's.
Most of my
> filter cartridges/media are as old as the systems that they came
with.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 2:48 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
>
> I know you are only trying to help Lenny. I am pretty touchy
> sometimes...sorry about that.
>
> I am using API test kits, which I hear are good, but I will go with
what you
> reccommend. I don't want to argue either Lenny. I guess I may not
know for
> sure it is cycled. the only filter I am using at this moment and
for the
> last month and a half is the Whisper 10 that came with the tank. I
have
> stated myself before that i KNOW the loach and pleco are too big
for this
> setup. I am trying to find someone to take them. But I am loath to
give them
> back to the lfs store that I got them from, since in both intances
they knew
> what my setup was, and failed to warn me of the size issue. The
Dojo loach
> they practically threw at me. But I have been to ALL the stores
within 50
> miles of here and I am afraid I concur that today's lfs's know
about as much
> or less than any beginner. I did indeed see lots of spiking in
ammonia,
> nitrite and nitrate the week before the levels went down like this.
I have
> live plants. An "Indian Red Sword" a Java fern, and some Cobomba.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I'm only trying to help you and I'm not arguing with you and I
> would like to
> > take your word that the tank is cycled... but I'm concerned that
> your tank
> > may not be cycled since you are showing 0.0ppm for nitrates and
> from some of
> > the other info you provided. Nitrate is the end process of the
> nitrogen
> > cycle and will continually climb between PWC's unless your tank is
> heavily
> > planted since the plants would utilize the nitrogenous compounds
as
> a food
> > source. Also, it usually takes longer than a month to cycle a tank
> using
> > fish and cycling a 10G with 6 fish would cause extreme
> ammonia/nitrite
> > spikes.
> >
> > Are you using any kind of filter media additives that look like
> whitish
> > rocks (zeolite)? Or any other filter additives that remove
ammonia
> > (nitrogenous compounds)? While these filter additives seem to
> perform a
> > good thing, the downside is that they prevent your tank from ever
> fully
> > cycling and growing a sufficient sized nitrifying bacteria colony
> to support
> > your tank. If you are ever delayed in changing out the ammonia
> removing
> > media, your tank would then experience an ammonia spike that could
> kill your
> > fish.
> >
> > Have you been testing your water daily or frequently over the past
> month
> > since you added fish? Did you see the ammonia spike and nitrite
> spike that
> > HAS to happen during the nitrogen cycle?
> >
> > Do you have lots of live plants in the tank?
> >
> > Also, as I recall, you have a 10G tank so you need to rethink your
> stocking
> > since the pleco and dojo loach get FAR TOO BIG for a 10G tank.
> Please
> > seriously consider returning or re-homing those two fish to a much
> larger
> > tank or they will become stunted in your 10G and suffer many
health
> issues.
> > The excess hormones they will excrete into your 10G will also
cause
> > potential health issues for your other fish.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Friday, September 14, 2007 11:52 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pH adjustments
> >
> > I am not worried so much about it, but I thought you guys might
> have some
> > suggestions. Isn't that what this group is for? This tank, as I
> said, is
> > already cycled. Setup a month and a half ago, and added fish
> > 1 month ago (Before I knew about fishless cycling.) 2 guppies, 2
> cory cats,
> > a Pleco and a Dojo Loach. Clearly the pH could suit a couple of
> these fish
> > better. I thought that aquarium peat was different than garden.
> Don't they
> > age aquarium peat moss? If I use the garden stuff, do I have to
> remove it
> > within a day or so, because I heard it will change your pH
> drastically very
> > quickly.
> >
> > And whether I used fishless or not, just take my word that the
tank
> is
> > cycled. Everything (except pH) is how it should be;
> >
> > Nitrate = 0
> > Nitrite = 0
> > Ammonia = 0
> > gH = 75
> > chlorine = 0
> > Alk. buffer = 80
> > pH = 7.8
> >
> > and has been this way for a week now with no fluctuations.
> > All fish are happy and eating well. Maybe that is the point.
Maybe I
> > shouldn't mess with anything at all, but I'm not sure. Thta's why
> I'm here.
> > :)
> >
> > Noah
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Why worry so much about it? Most fish will do fine at 7.8 pH and
> > many love
> > > high pH water but some do need low or very low pH water also.
> > >
> > > When you say the tank is "cycled for a couple of weeks", do you
> > mean that
> > > you fishless cycled the tank using plain ammonia? Or did you
just
> > run it
> > > for a few weeks with dechlored tap water? If you have just been
> > running it,
> > > then it is not "cycled" or ready for fish. Go to my blog and on
> > my "A to Z
> > > of fish keeping" page, I have all the info you would need on
> > fishless
> > > cycling the tank to make it ready and safe for the addition of
> > fish.
> > >
> > > Also, once you have the ecosystem going in the tank, the pH will
> > come down
> > > naturally due to the biological and chemical processes happening
> in
> > the
> > > ecosystem (as long as you don't add rocks or substrate that
> leaches
> > to raise
> > > the pH).
> > >
> > > What kind of fish are you interested in?
> > >
> > > If you are interested in fish that need a low pH, then you can
> find
> > peat
> > > moss at your local garden center and at many online fish related
> > stores but
> > > most of those fish need very stable tanks so they are not good
for
> > a new
> > > tank set up.
> > >
> > > While at my blog, also see the article "Hailey's 10G Stocking
> List"
> > for
> > > suitable fish and stocking suggestions for your 10G tank.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On
> > > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > > Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2007 12:40 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] pH adjustments
> > >
> > > When I first set up my tank, I was dumb and tried to alter the
pH
> > through
> > > chemicals. Then I tried distilled water. Neither of these has
done
> > a thing
> > > (as far as my tests can see, anyway.) I was thinking that I
would
> > put some
> > > peat moss in my canister filter, but it is pretty hard to find
> peat
> > that is
> > > made for the aquarium industry. I reckon there must be a reason
> for
> > this
> > > (i.e., it is very hard to alter pH manually).
> > > My pH is at 7.8, the buffering capacity is around 80. It is a 10
> > gallon
> > > freshwater tank that has been cycled for a couple of weeks. All
> > other
> > > paramaters are fine (ammonia, nitrite and nitrate=0). My pH has
> been
> > > 7.8 the whole time. Should I just give up the idea of getting
the
> > pH to 7.0
> > > as a crazy dream? Or is there a reliable way to do it?
> > >
> > > Thank you so much everyone. :)
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.19/1008 - Release Date: 9/14/2007
8:59 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24039 From: ming yeung Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: brown algae
what I have in my 55 gl freshwater tank:
'penguin' bio-wheel filter, 40W fluorescent light,
heater 79 F, bubble wall, ironwoods (big & medium
sizes), many fake plant, big bunch of real java fern
moss and appropriate fish population.

My tank has 2 years old. Two things currently bothers
me are 7.6 PH (too high) and brown algae.

No matter I did water change 15% once a week including
siphoned gravels and scraped brown algae away from
fake plant and decoration, brown algae grew again 2
days after water change.

I do not really like to use chemical product to lower
PH. Peat moss seems to be a good idea. But the
quantity must measure carefully. Otherwise, once the
PH drop down suddenly, it will bring stress to the
fishes. The most natural way for me to do is I bought
one 4 lbs driftwood today. I hope that it will lead
to lower PH gradually.

As for the brown algae, I do not really have any good
ideas. I put real plants before but it was fully
covered by brown algae. Any suggestions??\

Ming



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24040 From: Ro Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: pH adjustments
Noah,
What kinds of fish do you have or are you planning on having there???
Most of the fish you can find in the local aquarium stores can adapt
pretty well to whatever water you give them... If you are planning on
having Discus for example (the tank would be too small though) or
breeding certain species I have managed to lower my PH with driftwood
and peat moss. For the peat moss you can use the regular peat moss for
gardening, just make sure it does not have any kind of fertilizer. I
have used it in the past and gave good results; you will get some tannin
in the water and make it darker though.

Ro
www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
<http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24041 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/15/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
The driftwood should lower the ph. It has in mine, As for the brown algae .
40 watts for a 55 gallon tank seems kinda low. Try to increase wattage. Is it
one or two tubes. Try increasing the light.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24042 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
The brown algae you have is probably caused by diatoms. If this has not
been a problem right along from the time you started your aquarium, you
may wish to look at your water supply, in which the level of silicates
has risen. Some fish, like the otos (Otocinclus spp.), like to eat this
type of algae, and they can be introduced to help control it. More light
will also help in the control of the algae. You should have at least 2
watts of light for each gallon, right now you have less than 1 watt.

There is an interesting blog on algae at
http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/.

Why do you think your pH is too high? If the quoted 7.6 is what is
coming out of your tap, then you will need to keep fish that are
comfortable in that range. The biological processes in your tank should
lower the pH some, but not radically, and your regular water changes
will help keep the pH from moving too far. Most fish will do well in a
pH outside of the published ranges, but to breed and raise fish, you
should really heed the pH guidelines.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ming yeung
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 11:59 PM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] brown algae

what I have in my 55 gl freshwater tank:
'penguin' bio-wheel filter, 40W fluorescent light,
heater 79 F, bubble wall, ironwoods (big & medium
sizes), many fake plant, big bunch of real java fern
moss and appropriate fish population.

My tank has 2 years old. Two things currently bothers
me are 7.6 PH (too high) and brown algae.

No matter I did water change 15% once a week including
siphoned gravels and scraped brown algae away from
fake plant and decoration, brown algae grew again 2
days after water change.

I do not really like to use chemical product to lower
PH. Peat moss seems to be a good idea. But the
quantity must measure carefully. Otherwise, once the
PH drop down suddenly, it will bring stress to the
fishes. The most natural way for me to do is I bought
one 4 lbs driftwood today. I hope that it will lead
to lower PH gradually.

As for the brown algae, I do not really have any good
ideas. I put real plants before but it was fully
covered by brown algae. Any suggestions??\

Ming
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24043 From: gracefullnature Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Hello,

I am looking for snails that will eat the Green Spot Algae in my
Planted Tank.

Zebra Nerite and Olive Nerite Snail are recommended on various
articles online, however I did not see any place to purchase.

I am in the San Francisco East Bay Area.

Is there any LFS that sell them?

Anybody have some to trade or sell?

Thank You
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24044 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Have you tried Albany Aquarium?

They do not carry as much livestock as they used to but they have really
expanded their plant selection.

You might try asking on the Silicon Valley aquarium Society email list.
_http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/SiliconValleyAquariumSociety/?yguid=295728
7_
(http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/SiliconValleyAquariumSociety/?yguid=2957287)

They also meet once a month in San Jose for an aquarium society meeting.
This October 6th is their Mega Auction. Lots of plants and fish, tanks etc.

You can also ask on the San Francisco Aquarium Society email group.
_http://groups.google.com/group/detritus?hl=en_
(http://groups.google.com/group/detritus?hl=en)

-Mike

In a message dated 9/16/2007 12:34:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
gracefullnature@... writes:

am looking for snails that will eat the Green Spot Algae in my
Planted Tank.

Zebra Nerite and Olive Nerite Snail are recommended on various
articles online, however I did not see any place to purchase.

I am in the San Francisco East Bay Area.

Is there any LFS that sell them?

Anybody have some to trade or sell?

Thank You






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24045 From: Grace Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
Thank You,

I will call Guy at Albany and see.

Thanks again

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Have you tried Albany Aquarium?
>
> They do not carry as much livestock as they used to but they have
really
> expanded their plant selection.
>
> You might try asking on the Silicon Valley aquarium Society email
list.
> _http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/SiliconValleyAquariumSociety/?
yguid=295728
> 7_
> (http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/SiliconValleyAquariumSociety/?
yguid=2957287)
>
> They also meet once a month in San Jose for an aquarium society
meeting.
> This October 6th is their Mega Auction. Lots of plants and fish,
tanks etc.
>
> You can also ask on the San Francisco Aquarium Society email group.
> _http://groups.google.com/group/detritus?hl=en_
> (http://groups.google.com/group/detritus?hl=en)
>
> -Mike
>
> In a message dated 9/16/2007 12:34:09 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> gracefullnature@... writes:
>
> am looking for snails that will eat the Green Spot Algae in my
> Planted Tank.
>
> Zebra Nerite and Olive Nerite Snail are recommended on various
> articles online, however I did not see any place to purchase.
>
> I am in the San Francisco East Bay Area.
>
> Is there any LFS that sell them?
>
> Anybody have some to trade or sell?
>
> Thank You
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24046 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
just make sure when you let them know that you want them for a fresh water
tank. Olive nerites can usually be found in the salt water section of a LFS.
You just have to gradually accustom them to fresh water.




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24047 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
*There are some on Ebay - 10 for $13.99*

I have purchase snails online and they appear to mail well if packaged
appropriately.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24048 From: kl_whitney Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Schooling fish question
I heard that you need to keep schooling fish like tetras in odd
numbers. Something to do with pecking order. True? Won't be getting
fish for a while now, but I figure I'll just determine what kind I want
and how many I can get. I like the schooling ones best, I think.
I'm thinking neons in a ten gallon. They're about 1", right? I've
never seen one more than 1.25". If I can keep them in even numbers,
I'll get ten, but if I should keep them in odd numbers, I'll probably
get nine.
Also, for a small tank, would fake plants be better since they won't
overgrow like a live plant would? Or would live plants be better?
Thanks,
Kathy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24049 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Neons will grow to about 1.5" in the aquarium, about twice the size as they are found in the wild.

Plastic or real is a pretty personal decision. There are a number of plants that will do well in a 10 gallon tank. You have dwarf saggitarius, a number of cryptocorenes among others that you can chose for a smaller tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 9:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Schooling fish question

I heard that you need to keep schooling fish like tetras in odd
numbers. Something to do with pecking order. True? Won't be getting
fish for a while now, but I figure I'll just determine what kind I want
and how many I can get. I like the schooling ones best, I think.
I'm thinking neons in a ten gallon. They're about 1", right? I've
never seen one more than 1.25". If I can keep them in even numbers,
I'll get ten, but if I should keep them in odd numbers, I'll probably
get nine.
Also, for a small tank, would fake plants be better since they won't
overgrow like a live plant would? Or would live plants be better?
Thanks,
Kathy



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
I'm not sure if fish read the same things we read so I'm not sure if the odd
or even thing matters that much. Are you planning any other fish or just
the neon's? One of the things I've seen problems with are nipping or
aggression when there are not enough females. It's best to have at least
two females for every male so the females are not abused too much during the
mating chase. So you would be best with all males or 6-7 females and 3
males.

I think you've already acknowledged that you will be fishless cycling the
tank so you could add all 10 at one time since the fishless cycle will have
built up a large enough nitrifying bacteria colony.

Having aquatic plants overgrow a tank is rare for most people. It's usually
the opposite reason that folks have plastic or silk plants since they can't
keep live plants alive. I personally think your tank's ecosystem would be
better with live plants. Most of the light kits for a 10G have around 15
watts of lighting so you could go with easy and very easy to grow plants
like the ones on these two pages.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kl_whitney
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 8:50 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Schooling fish question

I heard that you need to keep schooling fish like tetras in odd numbers.
Something to do with pecking order. True? Won't be getting fish for a while
now, but I figure I'll just determine what kind I want and how many I can
get. I like the schooling ones best, I think.
I'm thinking neons in a ten gallon. They're about 1", right? I've never seen
one more than 1.25". If I can keep them in even numbers, I'll get ten, but
if I should keep them in odd numbers, I'll probably get nine.
Also, for a small tank, would fake plants be better since they won't
overgrow like a live plant would? Or would live plants be better?
Thanks,
Kathy


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1010 - Release Date: 9/15/2007
7:54 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24051 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
I also understand that the nerite snails will not breed in FW which is why
they are becoming more popular.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 3:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails

just make sure when you let them know that you want them for a fresh water
tank. Olive nerites can usually be found in the salt water section of a LFS.

You just have to gradually accustom them to fresh water.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1010 - Release Date: 9/15/2007
7:54 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24052 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
Personally i believe the benefits of live plants are better. Just get easy
ones like anubias, java fern, or java moss.


In a message dated 9/16/2007 6:50:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
kwhitney@... writes:

Also, for a small tank, would fake plants be better since they won't
overgrow like a live plant would? Or would live plants be better?
Thanks,





************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24053 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Orange Water
Thanks everyone!

My water is now clean again

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
What were your water parameters (pH, temp, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
hardness) before you started having the orange water and what are they now.
If you have something rotting, it would likely change your parameters
dramatically.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of eskielists@...
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 7:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

No, I don't think so. The only way I can even think of this being possible
is if water parameters have changed drastically, ie gone from very alkaline
to very acidic...not sure even then??? Sorry, ya got me!

Carmen-----
Original Message -----

From: Julie Roughley
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Orange Water

Hi,

Thanks for your reply, I do have a piece of driftwood in my tank, but it's
been part of my fish tank set up through many generations of fish.. would it
release tannins with age?

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.484 / Virus Database: 269.13.2/985 - Release Date: 9/2/2007
4:32 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Building a website is a piece of cake.
Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24054 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: Wanted: FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails
That is true. I have three olive nerites in one of my tanks and they lay
eggs but no young are produced. . The blue mystery snails breed like crazy in
that tank.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24055 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: overcrowding
Hello. My name is Noah, I have a 10 gallon community tank with 2
guppies and 2 cory cats. Also a Pleco and a Dojo loach, both of which
will get too large for this setup soon. The Pleco is about 2.5 inches
(measured from snout to beginning of tailfin) and the loach is about
2.3 inches. (Hard to be exact since they don't care about sitting still
for me to measure!) I have a pretty limited space left to place a tank.
Would a 38 or 40 gallon tank be enough to house the loach and pleco?
Could I fit anything else in?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24056 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/16/2007
Subject: Re: overcrowding
Anything bigger than the 10G would be better for the short term for both of
them, but a 40G would not be large enough for the long term either for
either or both of them. It would make for a much nicer community tank for
you and then you could keep the 10G if needed for a Q-tank or H-tank.
Larger tanks are much more stable for the fish and usually require less
maintenance (unless it is overstocked also).

A very good place to begin reading profiles and information about specific
species is Mongabay... http://fish.mongabay.com and you can simply put in
the fish name in the search and find the profile. At the bottom of each
Mongabay profile, there are several references listed with links to the
reference information for further reading.

Now, for some specialty fish like pleco's and loaches, there are specialty
sites just for them so you may find even more info at places like
PlecoFanatics.com and PlanetCatfish.com and for the loach at Loaches.com.
Here are a couple of good profiles on each.

DOJO/WEATHER LOACH -
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/freshwater/loaches/dojoloach.html
http://www.loaches.com/species-index/weather-loach-misgurnis-anguillicaudatu
s

When you see a minimum tank size recommended, that is usually for a single
fish but loaches prefer their own kind so they should be kept in at least
pairs and/or shoals of five or more. This would then require a much larger
than 40G tank.

PLECO - (presuming it's a common pleco but there are hundreds of variants)
http://fish.mongabay.com/loricariidae.htm (lists many species but has three
profiles on the various "common" plecos showing how they get up to 24" long
and need a 100G tank. I recently had to rehome my pleco because he was
getting too big for my 65G (48" x 18" footprint). I planned on having a
125-150G tank but Katrina changed my plans.
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=87
http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/species.php?species_id=88

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2007 11:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] overcrowding

Hello. My name is Noah, I have a 10 gallon community tank with 2 guppies and
2 cory cats. Also a Pleco and a Dojo loach, both of which will get too large
for this setup soon. The Pleco is about 2.5 inches (measured from snout to
beginning of tailfin) and the loach is about
2.3 inches. (Hard to be exact since they don't care about sitting still for
me to measure!) I have a pretty limited space left to place a tank.
Would a 38 or 40 gallon tank be enough to house the loach and pleco?
Could I fit anything else in?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.21/1010 - Release Date: 9/15/2007
7:54 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24057 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: update to changing substrate and a new question
I have changed the substrate in my 55 gallon planted. I used alot of
the advice that was given to me on the group. I am happy to say that
It took me about 1-1 1/2 hours to do the swap. Every one of my fish
had made it through just fine. I have been keeping a close eye on the
ammonia to be safe and so far there are no traces of ammonia at all.
It has been about 3 days now. How do I remove green spot algae on my
plants? Is there anything that would eat it? I am told via the web
that it is normal in a planted aquarium. Thanks to everyone that made
this change go smoothly.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24058 From: hank voss Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Schooling fish question
> I heard that you need to keep schooling fish like tetras in odd
> numbers. Something to do with pecking order. True?
=========================
Its always better to get an odd number of fish of any type (not just
tetras).Most people buy either one or two of a kind and then there is
usually one that is dominate and will chase the other one so that if
you have more than one that aggression is spread out over several fish.
You can get 10 neons once you go over 3or4 any numer will do.The
average size for neons is 1-1.5 in.If you see them chaseing on another
dont worry, thats normal for them.
If you can get them to grow live plants would be the way to go.
Regards Hank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24059 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: green spot algae
FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails are known to eat green spot algae.

--- ...

How do I remove green spot algae on my plants?

Is there anything that would eat it? ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24060 From: friendtoallfish Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: green spot algae
Thank you. I have a clown loach in the 55 gallon. Would it eat those
types of snails?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> FW Zebra or Olive Nerite Snails are known to eat green spot algae.
>
> --- ...
>
> How do I remove green spot algae on my plants?
>
> Is there anything that would eat it? ...
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24061 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Feeding Fish
Wow Noah, you are feeding twice a day? My poor fish only get fed once
per week! I have a 3.5 inch Pleco and everybody else in the tank (under
one-inch Serpae Tetras, Zebra Danios, Tiger Barbs) and lots of live
plants. I am amazed that my gravel still gets dirty. I just put in
some pinches of flake food and some algae wafers for the Pleco. I have
been doing this in my 55 gallon for about ten years now. Every so often
I will throw in some vegetables but I normally end up removing them
(don't want them to rot) with the fish barely touching them.

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24062 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
I was just feeding what I was told. Seems that everyone is full of
misinformation, whether they're an "expert" or not. I have cut way
back on the food, but if I move up to a 55 gallon like I plan, or at
least a 38G, I will probably stick with what I have been feeding. After
all, my fish are growing. Not getting fat, not excreting excessive
waste. Just getting bigger. This would be a good thing except for the
fact that 10g will be too small (and I mean desperately small!) in a
couple of months. That's why I am getting a bigger tnak. I mean, after
all isn't that what we want? For the fish to thrive and grow to
potential?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paula Brown" <browngip@...> wrote:
>
> Wow Noah, you are feeding twice a day? My poor fish only get fed once
> per week! I have a 3.5 inch Pleco and everybody else in the tank
(under
> one-inch Serpae Tetras, Zebra Danios, Tiger Barbs) and lots of live
> plants. I am amazed that my gravel still gets dirty. I just put in
> some pinches of flake food and some algae wafers for the Pleco. I
have
> been doing this in my 55 gallon for about ten years now. Every so
often
> I will throw in some vegetables but I normally end up removing them
> (don't want them to rot) with the fish barely touching them.
>
> Paula
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24063 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
One thing we all need to remember is that fish are opportunistic
feeders. If food is present, it will be eaten until the food is gone or
the fish is sated.

Noah, your twice a day regimen may or may not have been feeding them too
much, depending on the amount they were fed. Your statement about
minimal excretion, etc. indicates you were not feeding too much.

Paula, you may be underfeeding your fish--giving them a starvation diet.
Sure, they are probably surviving, but they probably are not thriving.
Sure, you can skip a feeding or two when you are on a daily regimen, and
well fed fish can live for two weeks, maybe longer, when you go away on
a vacation or other trip. But to consistently feed them only once a week
is carrying things a bit too far. Even during lean times in the wild,
fish can probably find something to eat daily, though it may be far from
a full diet.

Though, thinking about it, maybe I should move into your house, Paula,
to lose a few pounds <g>.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2007 10:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Fish

I was just feeding what I was told. Seems that everyone is full of
misinformation, whether they're an "expert" or not. I have cut way
back on the food, but if I move up to a 55 gallon like I plan, or at
least a 38G, I will probably stick with what I have been feeding. After
all, my fish are growing. Not getting fat, not excreting excessive
waste. Just getting bigger. This would be a good thing except for the
fact that 10g will be too small (and I mean desperately small!) in a
couple of months. That's why I am getting a bigger tnak. I mean, after
all isn't that what we want? For the fish to thrive and grow to
potential?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paula Brown" <browngip@...> wrote:
>
> Wow Noah, you are feeding twice a day? My poor fish only get fed once
> per week! I have a 3.5 inch Pleco and everybody else in the tank
(under
> one-inch Serpae Tetras, Zebra Danios, Tiger Barbs) and lots of live
> plants. I am amazed that my gravel still gets dirty. I just put in
> some pinches of flake food and some algae wafers for the Pleco. I
have
> been doing this in my 55 gallon for about ten years now. Every so
often
> I will throw in some vegetables but I normally end up removing them
> (don't want them to rot) with the fish barely touching them.
>
> Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24064 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Noah,



I promise I am not an expert.  Often times the food manufactuurers will suggest multiple or large feedings in order to sell more product.



My two cents, 



Mike



I was just feeding what I was told. Seems that everyone is full of
misinformation, whether they're an "expert" or not. I have cut way
back on the food, but if I move up to a 55 gallon like I plan, or at
least a 38G, I will probably stick with what I have been feeding. After
all, my fish are growing. Not getting fat, not excreting excessive
waste. Just getting bigger. This would be a good thing except for the
fact that 10g will be too small (and I mean desperately small!) in a
couple of months. That's why I am getting a bigger tnak. I mean, after
all isn't that what we want? For the fish to thrive and grow to
potential?



-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 7:43 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Feeding Fish






I was just feeding what I was told. Seems that everyone is full of
misinformation, whether they're an "expert" or not. I have cut way
back on the food, but if I move up to a 55 gallon like I plan, or at
least a 38G, I will probably stick with what I have been feeding. After
all, my fish are growing. Not getting fat, not excreting excessive
waste. Just getting bigger. This would be a good thing except for the
fact that 10g will be too small (and I mean desperately small!) in a
couple of months. That's why I am getting a bigger tnak. I mean, after
all isn't that what we want? For the fish to thrive and grow to
potential?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paula Brown" <browngip@...> wrote:
>
> Wow Noah, you are feeding twice a day? My poor fish only get fed once
> per week! I have a 3.5 inch Pleco and everybody else in the tank
(under
> one-inch Serpae Tetras, Zebra Danios, Tiger Barbs) and lots of live
> plants. I am amazed that my gravel still gets dirty. I just put in
> some pinches of flake food and some algae wafers for the Pleco. I
have
> been doing this in my 55 gallon for about ten years now. Every so
often
> I will throw in some vegetables but I normally end up removing them
> (don't want them to rot) with the fish barely touching them.
>
> Paula
>





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24065 From: John Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Have you tried to control it fish that will eat it? I have had great
success with Ancistrus (bristle nose pleco)and with rubber lipped
plecos neither of which get too large for your tank and do a great job
with algae. For your high pH, I'd choose the rubber lip as they seem
to be more tolerant.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, ming yeung <ii_ming@...> wrote:
>
> what I have in my 55 gl freshwater tank:
> 'penguin' bio-wheel filter, 40W fluorescent light,
> heater 79 F, bubble wall, ironwoods (big & medium
> sizes), many fake plant, big bunch of real java fern
> moss and appropriate fish population.
>
> My tank has 2 years old. Two things currently bothers
> me are 7.6 PH (too high) and brown algae.
>
> No matter I did water change 15% once a week including
> siphoned gravels and scraped brown algae away from
> fake plant and decoration, brown algae grew again 2
> days after water change.
>
> I do not really like to use chemical product to lower
> PH. Peat moss seems to be a good idea. But the
> quantity must measure carefully. Otherwise, once the
> PH drop down suddenly, it will bring stress to the
> fishes. The most natural way for me to do is I bought
> one 4 lbs driftwood today. I hope that it will lead
> to lower PH gradually.
>
> As for the brown algae, I do not really have any good
> ideas. I put real plants before but it was fully
> covered by brown algae. Any suggestions??\
>
> Ming
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get
listings, and more!
> http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24066 From: Kevin Date: 9/17/2007
Subject: question about my sick beta
ok heres my question this friday i went out for the weekend so i over
fed my fish maybe to much not shure when i got back sunday my girl beta
looked like she had goten in a fight some of here fins were shot the
wate way realy dirty and cloudy because i put it alot of food today
mond i went to clean there thanks and it look like some of here skin is
missing i have 2 betes but in seprate tanks could this be because of
the dirty water what should i do? here are to like to pics i took of
here to help explain beter what i am talking about
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Generally "most" fish can survive a weekend without food with no adverse
affects.
When fish are prepped for shipping food is with held for several days. This
is to keep them from fouling the water.
Most of my fish get a day of no food once a week.

My tank at my office never gets food on the weekend.

How big are their tanks?

Are the tanks filtered?

Heated?

Mike

In a message dated 9/17/2007 11:26:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
kev48us@... writes:

ok heres my question this friday i went out for the weekend so i over
fed my fish maybe to much not shure when i got back sunday my girl beta
looked like she had goten in a fight some of here fins were shot the
wate way realy dirty and cloudy because i put it alot of food today
mond i went to clean there thanks and it look like some of here skin is
missing i have 2 betes but in seprate tanks could this be because of
the dirty water what should i do? here are to like to pics i took of
here to help explain beter what i am talking about






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24068 From: Kevin Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
the tanks are not filted no heart and small littel bolws
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Generally "most" fish can survive a weekend without food with no
adverse
> affects.
> When fish are prepped for shipping food is with held for several
days. This
> is to keep them from fouling the water.
> Most of my fish get a day of no food once a week.
>
> My tank at my office never gets food on the weekend.
>
> How big are their tanks?
>
> Are the tanks filtered?
>
> Heated?
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 9/17/2007 11:26:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> kev48us@... writes:
>
> ok heres my question this friday i went out for the weekend so i
over
> fed my fish maybe to much not shure when i got back sunday my
girl beta
> looked like she had goten in a fight some of here fins were shot
the
> wate way realy dirty and cloudy because i put it alot of food
today
> mond i went to clean there thanks and it look like some of here
skin is
> missing i have 2 betes but in seprate tanks could this be because
of
> the dirty water what should i do? here are to like to pics i took
of
> here to help explain beter what i am talking about
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24069 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
I would probably change the tanks to a heated filtered set up. Water quality
really seems to affect bettas. They also like it hot at around 80 degrees.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24070 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
Hi Kevin,

If you want to extend their lifespan look into a larger tank with a filter. 

I have only kept a few Bettas in the past but the ones I kept in a filtered and heated tank lived longer.  You can purchase a small air powered sponge filter for a few dollars as well as an air pump.  They have their labyrinth organ to help them breathe oxygen, but water quality is still important.
 
You might be able to pick up a used tank for a couple dollars.
Recently I have been looking at large Goblet vase like bowls that are 2 two 3 gallons.  Even those will be considered small by some betta keepers.

The larger the container the more stable the environment, the healthier the fish.

This Yahoo group below has close to 1800 members, someone on this list or that one below can probably give you more current information on keeping bettas.
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/bettasplendens/

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin <kev48us@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 18 Sep 2007 2:40 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: question about my sick beta







the tanks are not filted no heart and small littel bolws
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Generally "most" fish can survive a weekend without food with no
adverse
> affects.
> When fish are prepped for shipping food is with held for several
days. This
> is to keep them from fouling the water.
> Most of my fish get a day of no food once a week.
>
> My tank at my office never gets food on the weekend.
>
> How big are their tanks?
>
> Are the tanks filtered?
>
> Heated?
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 9/17/2007 11:26:37 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> kev48us@... writes:
>
> ok heres my question this friday i went out for the weekend so i
over
> fed my fish maybe to much not shure when i got back sunday my
girl beta
> looked like she had goten in a fight some of here fins were shot
the
> wate way realy dirty and cloudy because i put it alot of food
today
> mond i went to clean there thanks and it look like some of here
skin is
> missing i have 2 betes but in seprate tanks could this be because
of
> the dirty water what should i do? here are to like to pics i took
of
> here to help explain beter what i am talking about
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24071 From: Ro Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
One of the big problems with Betas that most owners don't know about
is that they are pretty old by the time they buy them. So at best you
have a fish that will live a year or maybe a year and a half if water
conditions are at their best... If you keep your beta in a small bowl
make sure you give her plenty of water changes or get her into a
filtered tank.

If the ammonia in the bowl got high due to lack of water changes and
overfeeding, that could have damaged her fins.



Ro



www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24072 From: Ro Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Feeding Fish
I do 3 or 4 feedings a day but don't give a lot of food each time. Each
feeding is focused on a type of food or fish, for example every other
feeding I make sure there is some floating food for the livebearers.
The most aggressive feeders get food every time in small quantities
just to make sure they don't keep the other fish from getting their
share and just before lights out I feed the catfish and bottom
dwellers. It has worked really good for me for the past 15 years or so
with both marine and freshwater. In contrast, I also have a pair of
bamboo sharks in a 200 gl tank that I feed every other day and some
times just 2 times per week.

Ro
www.tropicalfishresources.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24073 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: question about my sick beta
I disagree completely with the "year to year and a half" suggestion.

I agree that they are probably 6 months to a year old when purchased but
Betta's should live for 5-7 years and are living for more than 10 years in
excellent homes. Now if you keep them in a Betta Bowl all their lives, then
their lifespan will be seriously diminished. I adopted/saved a 3-4 year old
Betta that I rescued from a flooded condo after Katrina and I kept it for
another nearly 2 years in a 10G lightly planted tank with heat and
filtration. Unfortunately, it lived in a Betta Bowl for it's first 3-4
years so it already had serious stunting issues and other health problems
from living in foul water for so long but at least it got to live out it's
retirement in a Betta Castle (10G) instead of a thatch hut (bowl).

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ro
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 7:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: question about my sick beta


One of the big problems with Betas that most owners don't know about is that
they are pretty old by the time they buy them. So at best you have a fish
that will live a year or maybe a year and a half if water conditions are at
their best... If you keep your beta in a small bowl make sure you give her
plenty of water changes or get her into a filtered tank.

If the ammonia in the bowl got high due to lack of water changes and
overfeeding, that could have damaged her fins.

Ro

www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007
1:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24074 From: gorsford Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people
think that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of light
vs gallon is not totally linear.
what do u suggest?
what plant can i keep there.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24075 From: ming yeung Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
If I increase the the wattage for my tank, it will
bring another green algae problem. Higher wattage
stimulates green algae growing since my tank has no
real plants. I use fake plants to decorate it.
--- joesbirds@... wrote:

> The driftwood should lower the ph. It has in mine,
> As for the brown algae .
> 40 watts for a 55 gallon tank seems kinda low. Try
> to increase wattage. Is it
> one or two tubes. Try increasing the light.
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's
> new at http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
Check out the hottest 2008 models today at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24076 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
How deep is your tank? You can have plants in tanks with as little as 1
watt/gallon but if your tank is deep, then you need more/stronger lighting.

Here's some info on Very Easy and Easy plants which are usually also low
light plants that do OK with as little as 1wpg and no CO2. You will also
see lists of harder plants to take care of on these same pages.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank

is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people think
that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of light vs gallon
is not totally linear.
what do u suggest?
what plant can i keep there.



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007
1:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24077 From: ming yeung Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: brown algae
Hi Steve
More light may be no good for introducing into my tank
since I used fake plant. I was thinking about the
brown algae might be carried out by the two years
bulb. Today I change the new bulb and see if it is
improved.

I have introduced three balloon rams into my tank. I
hope they can gradually tolerate the PH 7.5 since they
require neutral water.

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> The brown algae you have is probably caused by
> diatoms. If this has not
> been a problem right along from the time you started
> your aquarium, you
> may wish to look at your water supply, in which the
> level of silicates
> has risen. Some fish, like the otos (Otocinclus
> spp.), like to eat this
> type of algae, and they can be introduced to help
> control it. More light
> will also help in the control of the algae. You
> should have at least 2
> watts of light for each gallon, right now you have
> less than 1 watt.
>
> There is an interesting blog on algae at
> http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/.
>
> Why do you think your pH is too high? If the quoted
> 7.6 is what is
> coming out of your tap, then you will need to keep
> fish that are
> comfortable in that range. The biological processes
> in your tank should
> lower the pH some, but not radically, and your
> regular water changes
> will help keep the pH from moving too far. Most fish
> will do well in a
> pH outside of the published ranges, but to breed and
> raise fish, you
> should really heed the pH guidelines.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of ming yeung
> Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 11:59 PM
> To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] brown algae
>
> what I have in my 55 gl freshwater tank:
> 'penguin' bio-wheel filter, 40W fluorescent light,
> heater 79 F, bubble wall, ironwoods (big & medium
> sizes), many fake plant, big bunch of real java fern
> moss and appropriate fish population.
>
> My tank has 2 years old. Two things currently
> bothers
> me are 7.6 PH (too high) and brown algae.
>
> No matter I did water change 15% once a week
> including
> siphoned gravels and scraped brown algae away from
> fake plant and decoration, brown algae grew again 2
> days after water change.
>
> I do not really like to use chemical product to
> lower
> PH. Peat moss seems to be a good idea. But the
> quantity must measure carefully. Otherwise, once
> the
> PH drop down suddenly, it will bring stress to the
> fishes. The most natural way for me to do is I
> bought
> one 4 lbs driftwood today. I hope that it will lead
> to lower PH gradually.
>
> As for the brown algae, I do not really have any
> good
> ideas. I put real plants before but it was fully
> covered by brown algae. Any suggestions??\
>
> Ming
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24078 From: Alex See Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
my tank is 18" deep
4 feet long and 18" wide
i have 3 4' long Fluorescent tubes which are 32w each

On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> How deep is your tank? You can have plants in tanks with as little as 1
> watt/gallon but if your tank is deep, then you need more/stronger
> lighting.
>
> Here's some info on Very Easy and Easy plants which are usually also low
> light plants that do OK with as little as 1wpg and no CO2. You will also
> see lists of harder plants to take care of on these same pages.
>
> http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
>
> http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:51 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
>
> is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people think
> that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of light vs gallon
> is not totally linear.
> what do u suggest?
> what plant can i keep there.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date:
> 9/17/2007
> 1:29 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24079 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
Then it's more than 60G. 48x18x18/231 = 67.3 gallons and probably would be
sold as a 70G. I knew it was more than 60G since my 65G is 48x18x17, which
is actually 63.6 gallons but goes by 65G in the trade. You should be fine
with the 1.6 wpg as long as you stick with easy or very easy plants. Look
over the list of things you like on those two pages and check with your LFS
or chain stores for what they have that's on the list.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank

my tank is 18" deep
4 feet long and 18" wide
i have 3 4' long Fluorescent tubes which are 32w each

On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
>
> How deep is your tank? You can have plants in tanks with as little as
> 1 watt/gallon but if your tank is deep, then you need more/stronger
> lighting.
>
> Here's some info on Very Easy and Easy plants which are usually also
> low light plants that do OK with as little as 1wpg and no CO2. You
> will also see lists of harder plants to take care of on these same pages.
>
> http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2>
>
> http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3>
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:51 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
>
> is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people
> think that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of light
> vs gallon is not totally linear.
> what do u suggest?
> what plant can i keep there.
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007
1:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24080 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
I have a feeding question too. I have two medium size fancy gold fish and a medium size pleco. Obviously the pleco must be eating something cause he's growing, but it seems like every time I feed (twice a day)... the gold fish are eating all the food before it gets to the bottom... including the algae chips I feed my pleco. Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating the pleco's food?

Lisa from Illinois

Ro <lowolverin@...> wrote:
I do 3 or 4 feedings a day but don't give a lot of food each time. Each
feeding is focused on a type of food or fish, for example every other
feeding I make sure there is some floating food for the livebearers.
The most aggressive feeders get food every time in small quantities
just to make sure they don't keep the other fish from getting their
share and just before lights out I feed the catfish and bottom
dwellers. It has worked really good for me for the past 15 years or so
with both marine and freshwater. In contrast, I also have a pair of
bamboo sharks in a 200 gl tank that I feed every other day and some
times just 2 times per week.

Ro
www.tropicalfishresources.blogspot.com






---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24081 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Feeding them a while after the lights go out. Most Plecos are nocturnal.
That is the only way I am certain my bushy nose get anything to eat.

Mike

In a message dated 9/18/2007 9:59:29 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
glad2baslimkoagain@... writes:

the gold fish are eating all the food before it gets to the bottom...
including the algae chips I feed my pleco. Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish
from eating the pleco's food?

Lisa from Illinois






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24082 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/18/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
I hope you have a really big tank in the 100G+ range since that is what two
goldfish and a pleco would need for long term success. I had the same
stocking recently in my 65G and had to rehome the pleco since he was
starting to crowd things too much. He was 10" when I rehomed him back in
May. He's now in a 200G tank where he'll have enough room to grow to his
full size over the next 15 years. And my goldfish can now rest easy at
night since the lumbering giant is roaming all around while they are trying
to sleep. Before I rehomed my pleco, I was tempted to put in a lighting
egg-crate divider in the tank at night so the goldfish could sleep without
being disturbed by the pleco.

Now, as to making sure the pleco eats... and this is very important as he
will make a meal of one of your goldfish if he doesn't get enough food from
you. They are not typically aggressive except for conspecifics (their own
kind) but they are omnivores and have big appetites so they need food and
will get it one way or the other.

Most pleco's, like most catfish, are nocturnal and omnivores so they are
more active at night and need a varied diet. I would always feed mine the
hard algae wafers/thins first thing in the morning before lights were on and
also an hour or two after lights out at night. These are hard enough and
big enough that your goldfish should not be able to steal them from the
pleco. Algae wafers/thins are a misnomer since they are actually around 50%
protein which pleco's need. They can't live on algae alone. I fed mine the
Hikari Algae thins (about the size of a U.S. nickel) but also fed him
zucchini, cucumbers and whatever scraps he could get away from the goldfish
during their feedings.

Here's a article on other foods your pleco will like.
http://www.plecofanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa (Slimko)
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 11:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Feeding Fish

I have a feeding question too. I have two medium size fancy gold fish and a
medium size pleco. Obviously the pleco must be eating something cause he's
growing, but it seems like every time I feed (twice a day)... the gold fish
are eating all the food before it gets to the bottom... including the algae
chips I feed my pleco. Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating
the pleco's food?

Lisa from Illinois

Ro <lowolverin@... <mailto:lowolverin%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
I do 3 or 4 feedings a day but don't give a lot of food each time. Each
feeding is focused on a type of food or fish, for example every other
feeding I make sure there is some floating food for the livebearers.
The most aggressive feeders get food every time in small quantities just to
make sure they don't keep the other fish from getting their share and just
before lights out I feed the catfish and bottom dwellers. It has worked
really good for me for the past 15 years or so with both marine and
freshwater. In contrast, I also have a pair of bamboo sharks in a 200 gl
tank that I feed every other day and some times just 2 times per week.

Ro
www.tropicalfishresources.blogspot.com


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date: 9/17/2007
1:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24083 From: Alex See Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
it is 48"X15"X18" w/ 3" -5" substrate slope landscape
i guess it's good enough
but i really want to have some riccia. is my lighting good enough?


On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Then it's more than 60G. 48x18x18/231 = 67.3 gallons and probably would
> be
> sold as a 70G. I knew it was more than 60G since my 65G is 48x18x17,
> which
> is actually 63.6 gallons but goes by 65G in the trade. You should be
> fine
> with the 1.6 wpg as long as you stick with easy or very easy plants. Look
> over the list of things you like on those two pages and check with your
> LFS
> or chain stores for what they have that's on the list.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Alex See
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
>
> my tank is 18" deep
> 4 feet long and 18" wide
> i have 3 4' long Fluorescent tubes which are 32w each
>
> On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > How deep is your tank? You can have plants in tanks with as little as
> > 1 watt/gallon but if your tank is deep, then you need more/stronger
> > lighting.
> >
> > Here's some info on Very Easy and Easy plants which are usually also
> > low light plants that do OK with as little as 1wpg and no CO2. You
> > will also see lists of harder plants to take care of on these same
> pages.
> >
> > http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2>
> >
> > http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3>
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of gorsford
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:51 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
> >
> > is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people
> > think that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of light
> > vs gallon is not totally linear.
> > what do u suggest?
> > what plant can i keep there.
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1013 - Release Date:
> 9/17/2007
> 1:29 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24084 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
According to PlantGeek.net search on "riccia", two hits came up at
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_search.php?search=riccia&type=Search for
Dwarf and regular riccia and both of them show "High" for light
requirements.

Here is the summary of "Care" for the regular riccia.

Care
Normally a floating plant, it will not root or attach to anything. It must
be tied down to make a carpet or lawn effect. If left floating it will
prefer low water movement. If tied down it will need very high light and
CO2.

Considering this info, if you are planning on having it at the bottom of
your tank, you will need to upgrade your lighting and add CO2 but if you
leave it floating, then it will get plenty of light and will get CO2 from
the air itself. That's a good thing about floating plants. They are up
close to the light already and they can absorb CO2 from the air since there
may not be enough in the water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 2:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank

it is 48"X15"X18" w/ 3" -5" substrate slope landscape i guess it's good
enough but i really want to have some riccia. is my lighting good enough?

On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
>
> Then it's more than 60G. 48x18x18/231 = 67.3 gallons and probably
> would be sold as a 70G. I knew it was more than 60G since my 65G is
> 48x18x17, which is actually 63.6 gallons but goes by 65G in the trade.
> You should be fine with the 1.6 wpg as long as you stick with easy or
> very easy plants. Look over the list of things you like on those two
> pages and check with your LFS or chain stores for what they have
> that's on the list.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Alex See
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 10:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon
> tank
>
> my tank is 18" deep
> 4 feet long and 18" wide
> i have 3 4' long Fluorescent tubes which are 32w each
>
> On 9/19/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > How deep is your tank? You can have plants in tanks with as little
> > as
> > 1 watt/gallon but if your tank is deep, then you need more/stronger
> > lighting.
> >
> > Here's some info on Very Easy and Easy plants which are usually also
> > low light plants that do OK with as little as 1wpg and no CO2. You
> > will also see lists of harder plants to take care of on these same
> pages.
> >
> > http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> > >
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
> > > >
> >
> > http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> > >
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> > <http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3
> > > >
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of gorsford
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2007 9:51 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] I have 96w light in 6500k in a 60 gallon tank
> >
> > is it too low? I heard that it should be 2w/gallon. or some people
> > think that it depends on the surface area too. like the curve of
> > light vs gallon is not totally linear.
> > what do u suggest?
> > what plant can i keep there.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24085 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
In a message dated 9/18/2007 10:26:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating
the pleco's food?

Try feeding the pleco right before you turn off the lights.






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24086 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
I'm not sure what happened to this message but I didn't write the below
reply that makes it look like I was asking the question. I think someone
messed up when editing an email. I actually replied to the original poster
giving them a detailed reply on how and what I would feed my pleco when I
had him in with my two fancy goldfish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 3:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Feeding Fish



In a message dated 9/18/2007 10:26:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> writes:

Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating the pleco's food?

Try feeding the pleco right before you turn off the lights.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24087 From: Lisa (Slimko) Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
Thanks for all the replies. I am going to try doing what you said and hopefully it will work. Well, I'm sure it will cause you guys all know what you are talking about. That's why I joined this group. Thanks a bunch!!
Lisa from Illinois

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
I'm not sure what happened to this message but I didn't write the below
reply that makes it look like I was asking the question. I think someone
messed up when editing an email. I actually replied to the original poster
giving them a detailed reply on how and what I would feed my pleco when I
had him in with my two fancy goldfish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 3:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Feeding Fish



In a message dated 9/18/2007 10:26:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating the pleco's food?

Try feeding the pleco right before you turn off the lights.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date: 9/18/2007
11:53 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

---------------------------------
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24088 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: new member intro
Hi Everyone!

I'm joining your list in hopes of lots of great advice and
opinions. I am an aquarium geek. I started with a 5 gallon about 8
years ago and have slowly increased the size of my tanks. I am now
going from a 30gal to a 44 gal. pentagon.
I am very excited about it. It is not set up yet, and here is where
all of you come in.
I would like your opinions on plant placing and rock formations in a
pentagon shape if any of you have had one of these.

Currently in my 30gal. I have
2 dwarf neon rainbows
2 fancy guppies
2 dwarf platys
6 harlequin rasbora
2 cory cats
1 otocinclus
My plants consist of
jungle val
moneywort
java fern
red wendti
and some kind of peace lilly
I do use the CaribSea plant substrate and have my Coralife bulbs.
I would really appreciate any thoughts on aquascaping the new set up.
And any thoughts on adding some Bosemani Rainbows into my fish mix.
With the larger tank size I would like to add some larger fish.
Thanks for any advice you guys may have,
Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24089 From: Belinda Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: New Here
Hi, new here, just found your group today. My question is... I have a
55 gal freshwater tank with angels and tetras. Several months ago I
took out all of my plastic plants and switched to live plants. My
plants keep turning yellow. I have a 40 watt Flora Glo light and have
it on a timer for 12 hours a day. I'm new with the live plants and not
having a lot of sucess. Any suggestions appreciated.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24090 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: New Here
You need to increase wattage about 1.0 watt per gallon for low light plants
2-3 for higher light plant.



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24091 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/19/2007
Subject: Re: New Here
You definitely need to get more light in there for your plants. You will need a fixture that can hold several bulbs producing at least 110 watts, though more would be better. Also, when you place new plants in a tank, they will go through a period of adjustment that is commonly called transplant shock. Some have relatively benign symptoms of this in that they simply will not grow for a period of time, while others will make you think you have lost them completely, only to have them come back as beautiful plants. You will also need to become familiar with the light requirements of the plants you wish to keep so that it can be provided. It is possible to have plants that like high light and those that do not in the same tank merely by placing them properly.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Belinda
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 3:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Here

Hi, new here, just found your group today. My question is... I have a
55 gal freshwater tank with angels and tetras. Several months ago I
took out all of my plastic plants and switched to live plants. My
plants keep turning yellow. I have a 40 watt Flora Glo light and have
it on a timer for 12 hours a day. I'm new with the live plants and not
having a lot of sucess. Any suggestions appreciated.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24092 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Re: Feeding Fish
I don't think it's good to have hard and fast rules about feeding. I
think you have to find through experimentation and observation what
kind of food and how much. For instance, at first I'd put food in
every day for my five convict cichlids, but they wouldn't come to the
surface for it. I thought at first that it was simply fear, since they
startle so easily when I approach. I tried sinking pellets and they
ate those kind of half-heartedly. I had some freeze-dried shrimp (left
over from my now-dead cray), and I didn't feed them for one day. The
next day, I dropped in the shrimp, and they all hurried to the surface
for the shrimp and gobbled them up. So now that's what I do - skip a
day and give them shrimp. My goldies and platies get fed twice a day,
but no as much the second time. As for plecs, yes, turn out the
lights, but give it some time for the fish to quiet down and "sleep,"
then quietly drop in the discs. About once a week, I put a slice of
cucumber in (rubber banded to a rock) and the plec loves that.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lisa \(Slimko\)"
<glad2baslimkoagain@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the replies. I am going to try doing what you said
and hopefully it will work. Well, I'm sure it will cause you guys all
know what you are talking about. That's why I joined this group.
Thanks a bunch!!
> Lisa from Illinois
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> I'm not sure what happened to this message but I didn't write the
below
> reply that makes it look like I was asking the question. I think someone
> messed up when editing an email. I actually replied to the original
poster
> giving them a detailed reply on how and what I would feed my pleco
when I
> had him in with my two fancy goldfish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of joesbirds@...
> Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 3:05 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Feeding Fish
>
>
>
> In a message dated 9/18/2007 10:26:58 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> GoldLenny@... writes:
>
> Any ideas on how to keep the gold fish from eating the pleco's food?
>
> Try feeding the pleco right before you turn off the lights.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.22/1015 - Release Date:
9/18/2007
> 11:53 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> ---------------------------------
> Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with
Yahoo! Autos.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24093 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Aquarium Book
1856. Yep, that's the date of this book. 1856. One of the first books
ever published about keeping fish in closed systems. A rather
interesting read. You can get it in several formats, choose the one that
is right for you. Interesting to see that some of the old wives tales in
the hobby today come from very old wives, indeed.

Just point your browser to
http://www.archive.org/details/aquavivariumfres00lankrich.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24094 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/20/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Book
http://www.archive.org/details/aquavivariumfres00lankrich


(original post has a period at the end of the link which causes it to
not work)

The aquavivarium, fresh and marine; being an account of the principles
and objects involved in the domestic culture of water plants and
animals ([pref. 1856])

The aquavivarium, fresh and marine; being an account of the principles
and objects involved in the domestic culture of water plants and
animals ([pref. 1856])

Author: Lankester, Edwin, 1814-1874
Digitizing Sponsor: MSN
Usage Rights: See Terms
Book Contributor: University of California Libraries
Language: English
Keywords: Aquariums

Selected Metadata
Title The aquavivarium, fresh and marine; being an account of the
principles and objects involved in the domestic culture of water
plants and animals
Creator Lankester, Edwin, 1814-1874
Publisher London, R. Hardwicke
Date [pref. 1856]
Language eng
Possible Copyright Status NOT_IN_COPYRIGHT
Copyright Region US
Copyright Evidence Evidence reported by scanner-ian-white for
item aquavivariumfres00lankrich on January 8, 2007: no visible notice
of copyright; stated date is 1856.
Copyright Evidence Date 20070108171744
Contributor University of California Libraries
Media Type texts
Call Number nrlf_ucb:GLAD-17098489
Identifier aquavivariumfres00lankrich
Public Date 2007-01-08 09:18:02
Image Count 96
Scribe Operator scanner-melissa-cunningham@...
Scribe Station rich9


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> 1856. Yep, that's the date of this book. 1856. One of the first books
> ever published about keeping fish in closed systems. A rather
> interesting read. You can get it in several formats, choose the one
that
> is right for you. Interesting to see that some of the old wives
tales in
> the hobby today come from very old wives, indeed.
>
> Just point your browser to
> http://www.archive.org/details/aquavivariumfres00lankrich.
>
> \\Steve//
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24095 From: snowy80829 Date: 9/21/2007
Subject: sick pond goldfish
Hi,
I had 7 roughly 3" goldfish in a small outdoor "pond" - it is
actually a water storage tank with lots of pond plants added (10, all
growing well), it measures about 4' X 2' X 2'.
One got cottonmouth disease, I isolated him, and he jumped the tank
overnight. It had eaten away most of his mouth, so it may be just as
well that he jumped, as I think the disease may have been too far
gone to save him.
Before this, I got sick, and missed a water change. I have had no
ammonia problems, when I checked the nitrite it was 0.5 before the
second water change, all else was as it should be. I have had the
fish & tank for about 2 months.
Anyhow, I did a 20% water change one day, another one the next day
and treated the rest of the tank with an anti- cotton mouth, finrot
and fungus treatment. I let that sit for 2 days, and have done 2-3
water changes since.
One of my goldfish has a small fuzzy spot in the middle of the Y in
his tailfin, and a small section on his side where it looks like he
has lost some of his scales, another has reddish looking gills, and a
third one had what looked like a bit of finrot on his dorsal fin,
which I had been wondering if it was an injury, as he came that way
(this one is a shubunkin, which is blue, red, white, peach, black and
gold, so it is hard to tell if the area is red because it is not
well, or if it is his natural colouring). The remaing three fish seem
to be doing fine.
I am most worried about the one with the white spot. Is there
anything else I should do for them? Do they generally take a while to
get better, or should I treat the tank again?? if so, when?
Thank you,
Susan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24096 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/21/2007
Subject: Re: sick pond goldfish
I know you didn't write to hear the following but the following is what is
wrong...

Part of your problem is that your fish are likely suffering from stress
induced immune system issues due to being in an uncycled, undersized "pond".
If you had seven goldfish in the pond from the start, then they went through
the cycling process which is very grueling on them. Were you testing the
water daily and doing PWC's to keep the ammonia/nitrite levels below 0.5ppm?


If you are still getting nitrite or ammonia readings at any time, that means
your pond and/or filtration are not properly cycled (read more about "the
nitrogen cycle" on my blog) but you also have a very high bioload on the
pond which contributes to the stress and health issues.

Your pond is only 120 gallons (based on your measurements and if it's full)
so you should not have more than 2-3 long bodied goldfish in that size pond.
With 7, or now 6 since one committed suicide, you are still 200-300%
overstocked and as the fish grow... if they don't get stunted too badly...
they will suffer even more stress related health issues.

You can help things by doing daily 10% PWC's (partial water changes) or
twice to three times a week 25% PWC's. This will reduce the hormone levels
in the water and the give them the fresh water they need to start healing on
their own.... with the help of the meds.

After you are finished treating the pond, you should also run some type of
chemical filtration (I suggest Purigen) as it will take out more of the
DOC's and hormones between PWC's. Purigen is rechargeable using bleach so I
recommend it since it's much better and cheaper in the long run.

Go to my blog and read my article on filter maintenance so you do not
inadvertently put your pond into mini-cycles when doing filter cleaning
since with your overstocked situation, a mini-cycle could get seriously high
ammonia/nitrite levels.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of snowy80829
Sent: Friday, September 21, 2007 10:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] sick pond goldfish

Hi,
I had 7 roughly 3" goldfish in a small outdoor "pond" - it is actually a
water storage tank with lots of pond plants added (10, all growing well), it
measures about 4' X 2' X 2'.
One got cottonmouth disease, I isolated him, and he jumped the tank
overnight. It had eaten away most of his mouth, so it may be just as well
that he jumped, as I think the disease may have been too far gone to save
him.
Before this, I got sick, and missed a water change. I have had no ammonia
problems, when I checked the nitrite it was 0.5 before the second water
change, all else was as it should be. I have had the fish & tank for about 2
months.
Anyhow, I did a 20% water change one day, another one the next day and
treated the rest of the tank with an anti- cotton mouth, finrot and fungus
treatment. I let that sit for 2 days, and have done 2-3 water changes since.
One of my goldfish has a small fuzzy spot in the middle of the Y in his
tailfin, and a small section on his side where it looks like he has lost
some of his scales, another has reddish looking gills, and a third one had
what looked like a bit of finrot on his dorsal fin, which I had been
wondering if it was an injury, as he came that way (this one is a shubunkin,
which is blue, red, white, peach, black and gold, so it is hard to tell if
the area is red because it is not well, or if it is his natural colouring).
The remaing three fish seem to be doing fine.
I am most worried about the one with the white spot. Is there anything else
I should do for them? Do they generally take a while to get better, or
should I treat the tank again?? if so, when?
Thank you,
Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.487 / Virus Database: 269.13.27/1020 - Release Date: 9/20/2007
12:07 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24097 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Ray,

I'm thinking about bringing some mbuna (Socolofi, Acei, Red Zebra) to the
auction. The consignor must pick up any lots that fail to sell. Any idea
when the auction is expected to be over? Any experience to share on chances
of having lots that fail to sell?

Hope to meet you there,
Donna


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24098 From: Jim Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Hi,

I have three Giant Danios, which I've had for over a month now. They're
all doing well. I am at a point now where I'd like to add one or two
more fish to the tank (20 gallons), but am not sure what kinds of fish
would get along well with the Giant Danios. Could someone provide some
recommendations on fish that would make good additions to the current
inhabitants of my tank? Thanks.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24099 From: William Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
It would be best for you to let us know what kinds of fish that you
like and we can then let you know if they will work out. You are the
one that is going to be looking at the tank and not us. We could give
suggestions but you might not like them or there might be several
suggestions each which would be good but in combo with others on the
list might not be so good.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have three Giant Danios, which I've had for over a month now. They're
> all doing well. I am at a point now where I'd like to add one or two
> more fish to the tank (20 gallons), but am not sure what kinds of fish
> would get along well with the Giant Danios. Could someone provide some
> recommendations on fish that would make good additions to the current
> inhabitants of my tank? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24100 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/22/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Hi Jim,

One place that will tell you some compatible tank mates in their profiles is
Mongabay. Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and put the type of fish you are
interested in to look at the profile and there is a section called SC
(Species Compatibility) which will give you an idea of suitable tank mates.


Here is the profile for Giant Danios...
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Danio_aequipinnatus.html

Here is the SC paragraph...
SC: Loaches, Epalzeorhynchus , Loricarids, Armored Catfish ( Corydoras ),
Danios, Gouramis, Acaras, Eartheaters, larger barbs.

Here is the tank recommendation for Giant Danios...
TANK: A school can be kept in a tank measuring 36" (91 cm) with a volume of
30 gallons (114 L), although they would prefer a longer tank (48"). Leave
open swimming areas and plant the corners with robust plants. Use a
tight-fitting cover.

Is your 20G a long tank or tall tank? Hopefully a 20G LONG so it will be
suitable for a while but you should look to upgrade in tank size so they
will have sufficient swimming area and water volume to grow into since many
of the compatible tank mates require larger tanks as well.

Your next step would be to look at the profiles on each of those to see what
their tank requirements are and then look at what is available in your LFS
or pet store.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 2:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations

Hi,

I have three Giant Danios, which I've had for over a month now. They're all
doing well. I am at a point now where I'd like to add one or two more fish
to the tank (20 gallons), but am not sure what kinds of fish would get along
well with the Giant Danios. Could someone provide some recommendations on
fish that would make good additions to the current inhabitants of my tank?
Thanks.

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 - Release Date: 9/21/2007
2:02 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24101 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Hi Donna, First of all, I see the reply I posted here to you
yesterday never got posted. Well, that's typical of Yahoo for
you!!! Let me try this again:

Glad to see you'll be making it to the North Jersey Show (&
auction). I wish other Group members local to this area could make
it also. While it may be true that the consignor is liable for
picking up any lots that fail to sell (or the fish become the
property of NJAS), there has never been an instance where a bag has
not sold. This does not mean you can expect receiving any kind of an
average price for those lots that linger towards the very end, as the
best those bags will get will be a nominal price of $2 (or less)
since by that time 75% or more of the bidders will have already left.

The auctions generally start around 12:00 Noon, with an hour preview
(starting around 11:00 AM), and go until 6:30 - 7:30 PM or so
deepending on how many bags there are and how lively the bids come
across; I'd be prepared for at least 7:30 PM, but it could be sooner.

Every six bags you enter into the auction will receive two red
stickers and two green stickers, for your discretion of what bags to
put them on. All the red-stickered bags will be auctioned off first,
before any others, so your red-stickered bags may be put up on the
block during the first 10 minutes or it might take 2 1/2 hours --
depending on the luck of the draw. Then, all the green-stickered
bags will be auctioned off next, before any of the non-stickered
bags. So you really only have to be concerned about your 2 remaining
bags out of every 6 bags you enter, as far as their possibility of
remaining until the very last.

You may want to just put less valuable (or smaller) fish in those non-
stickered bags if you have any concerns. If you'd still rather enter
better fish in all bags, there are ways around having any of your
fish linger, depending on what you feel those fish would ordinarily
bring. You can "push" any bag you wish to, having it brought up for
auction before any others go, the minute you indicate your desire to
do so. There is a $2 fee for this, but at least you'll know that
those fish will be presented to the bidders at a time when they are
all still there, standing the best chance for a higher return.
Normally, this is usually taken advantage of by those bidders whom
are eager to purchase a certain bag of fish, but there's no saying
you can't do it with your own fish. Just don't bid on them (LOL).

Be aware that there will be a fair amount of Rift Lake Cichlids put
up for auction by other breeders as well as some additional bags of
the same as donations from our LFS and wholesaler supporters. This
category is always one of the most popular. Looking forward to
seeing you there. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I'm thinking about bringing some mbuna (Socolofi, Acei, Red Zebra)
to the
> auction. The consignor must pick up any lots that fail to sell.
Any idea
> when the auction is expected to be over? Any experience to share
on chances
> of having lots that fail to sell?
>
> Hope to meet you there,
> Donna
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24102 From: Donna Ransome Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
Is one bag of fish equal to a “lot”? I’d like to bag some males one
fish/bag to eliminate fin damage, but he should be sold in a “lot” with his
females.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 8:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction



Hi Donna, First of all, I see the reply I posted here to you
yesterday never got posted. Well, that's typical of Yahoo for
you!!! Let me try this again:

Glad to see you'll be making it to the North Jersey Show (&
auction). I wish other Group members local to this area could make
it also. While it may be true that the consignor is liable for
picking up any lots that fail to sell (or the fish become the
property of NJAS), there has never been an instance where a bag has
not sold. This does not mean you can expect receiving any kind of an
average price for those lots that linger towards the very end, as the
best those bags will get will be a nominal price of $2 (or less)
since by that time 75% or more of the bidders will have already left.

The auctions generally start around 12:00 Noon, with an hour preview
(starting around 11:00 AM), and go until 6:30 - 7:30 PM or so
deepending on how many bags there are and how lively the bids come
across; I'd be prepared for at least 7:30 PM, but it could be sooner.

Every six bags you enter into the auction will receive two red
stickers and two green stickers, for your discretion of what bags to
put them on. All the red-stickered bags will be auctioned off first,
before any others, so your red-stickered bags may be put up on the
block during the first 10 minutes or it might take 2 1/2 hours --
depending on the luck of the draw. Then, all the green-stickered
bags will be auctioned off next, before any of the non-stickered
bags. So you really only have to be concerned about your 2 remaining
bags out of every 6 bags you enter, as far as their possibility of
remaining until the very last.

You may want to just put less valuable (or smaller) fish in those non-
stickered bags if you have any concerns. If you'd still rather enter
better fish in all bags, there are ways around having any of your
fish linger, depending on what you feel those fish would ordinarily
bring. You can "push" any bag you wish to, having it brought up for
auction before any others go, the minute you indicate your desire to
do so. There is a $2 fee for this, but at least you'll know that
those fish will be presented to the bidders at a time when they are
all still there, standing the best chance for a higher return.
Normally, this is usually taken advantage of by those bidders whom
are eager to purchase a certain bag of fish, but there's no saying
you can't do it with your own fish. Just don't bid on them (LOL).

Be aware that there will be a fair amount of Rift Lake Cichlids put
up for auction by other breeders as well as some additional bags of
the same as donations from our LFS and wholesaler supporters. This
category is always one of the most popular. Looking forward to
seeing you there. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I'm thinking about bringing some mbuna (Socolofi, Acei, Red Zebra)
to the
> auction. The consignor must pick up any lots that fail to sell.
Any idea
> when the auction is expected to be over? Any experience to share
on chances
> of having lots that fail to sell?
>
> Hope to meet you there,
> Donna
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24103 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction
I have no connection with the NJAS auction coming up, other than the thought I may go up to Jersey to attend the weekend, but this pretty much applies to all fish club auctions.

In a case such as you describe, there are a couple of solutions, since each bag is a lot. You can bag males and females separately, as you wish, then place both bags into a larger bag, which would then be one lot. This would be the preferred method.

The other method is to tie the bags together. This is a less satisfactory solution because the two bags may become separated during handling prior to being brought up to the auctioneer. If you are lucky, someone will notice that the two have become separated and will make an effort to bring the group together, but, more likely, they will see one fish in the bag, presume the other may have died and offer it up as a singleton, and be left with an unmarked bag (or bags) at the end of the auction.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 10:03 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction

Is one bag of fish equal to a "lot"? I'd like to bag some males one
fish/bag to eliminate fin damage, but he should be sold in a "lot" with his
females.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 8:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: North Jersey Aquarium Society Fish Show/Auction



Hi Donna, First of all, I see the reply I posted here to you
yesterday never got posted. Well, that's typical of Yahoo for
you!!! Let me try this again:

Glad to see you'll be making it to the North Jersey Show (&
auction). I wish other Group members local to this area could make
it also. While it may be true that the consignor is liable for
picking up any lots that fail to sell (or the fish become the
property of NJAS), there has never been an instance where a bag has
not sold. This does not mean you can expect receiving any kind of an
average price for those lots that linger towards the very end, as the
best those bags will get will be a nominal price of $2 (or less)
since by that time 75% or more of the bidders will have already left.

The auctions generally start around 12:00 Noon, with an hour preview
(starting around 11:00 AM), and go until 6:30 - 7:30 PM or so
deepending on how many bags there are and how lively the bids come
across; I'd be prepared for at least 7:30 PM, but it could be sooner.

Every six bags you enter into the auction will receive two red
stickers and two green stickers, for your discretion of what bags to
put them on. All the red-stickered bags will be auctioned off first,
before any others, so your red-stickered bags may be put up on the
block during the first 10 minutes or it might take 2 1/2 hours --
depending on the luck of the draw. Then, all the green-stickered
bags will be auctioned off next, before any of the non-stickered
bags. So you really only have to be concerned about your 2 remaining
bags out of every 6 bags you enter, as far as their possibility of
remaining until the very last.

You may want to just put less valuable (or smaller) fish in those non-
stickered bags if you have any concerns. If you'd still rather enter
better fish in all bags, there are ways around having any of your
fish linger, depending on what you feel those fish would ordinarily
bring. You can "push" any bag you wish to, having it brought up for
auction before any others go, the minute you indicate your desire to
do so. There is a $2 fee for this, but at least you'll know that
those fish will be presented to the bidders at a time when they are
all still there, standing the best chance for a higher return.
Normally, this is usually taken advantage of by those bidders whom
are eager to purchase a certain bag of fish, but there's no saying
you can't do it with your own fish. Just don't bid on them (LOL).

Be aware that there will be a fair amount of Rift Lake Cichlids put
up for auction by other breeders as well as some additional bags of
the same as donations from our LFS and wholesaler supporters. This
category is always one of the most popular. Looking forward to
seeing you there. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Ray,
>
> I'm thinking about bringing some mbuna (Socolofi, Acei, Red Zebra)
to the
> auction. The consignor must pick up any lots that fail to sell.
Any idea
> when the auction is expected to be over? Any experience to share
on chances
> of having lots that fail to sell?
>
> Hope to meet you there,
> Donna
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24104 From: Larry Nave Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: New Dilema...Koi...Lenny any thoughts?
Today I went out to the pond to start the winterizing procedure.....I have 4 koi and on 2 (10 inch long each)koi they have white wax build up on on one by the eye and on the other on the head....the other two seemed fine. I immediately got sick to my stomach....I think from a lot of descriptions to be KoiPox......virus like herpes...as I read it seems the only thing that helps is to increase the temperature which is fine as I was putting in the pond heater. I do not know what to do next...it looks like you could peel it off....it has a crater in the middle of the white looking wax. I also read is that the areas could get infected....but it itself is not life threatening and can happen whenever there is a temp drop(this week here the temp dropped by 20 degrees).....according to articles during the summer it leaves the fish and in cold periods it pops back out.....?????
Any ideas? Water parameters good, 1000 gallon pond, good aeration....serviced the filters last weekend....also have one Oranda, 6 mutts koi/goldfish and all seemed fine in the pond.
Larry
Karen and Larry
l.nave(at)comcast.net
Lefty,Indy,Molly and fish

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24105 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Death to filter cartidges!
I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon. I
have no experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can
see, the cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I
hear...DRIP DRIP DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop
worked fine, but if I had fallen asleep, it would have been
disastorous. Now the thing is, I did COMPLETE cleanining and
maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only that, but I had rinsed the
bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just last week! (killing
N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up the
slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the
impeller housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will
getting one of those little filter brushes (the ones that will go
through the intake tube and all) solve this problem? There is NO
visible clogging in any part of the filter or cartridge, yet lo and
behold, it IS clogged! :(

Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep,
but it doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't
be rinsed out.

I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205
canister filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I
figured rather than buy another really good filter, I would put the
Fluval (it's for a 40 gal tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media
in a mesh bag) on the 55 gallon, and buy a bio wheel filter for the
10 G.

So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper
10 filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other
filter I end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in
mind, if you hate Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)

Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24106 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Where was it overflowing? It doesn't sound like the suction tube is clogged
but rather the filter cartridge.

Here is my blog article with pictures of how I did "surgery" on one of those
types of cartridges in order to remove the old carbon.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html and/or
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-penguin-200.
html It is likely the old carbon in the cartridge that is clogged up
preventing the water from flowing through the filter pads.

You can also make sure that the filter housing leans "into" the tank so that
if the reservoir ever fills up, it pours over the top of the cartridge and
flows back into the tank, rather than out the back of the reservoir onto the
floor. I have used a folded up piece of paper to wedge between outside of
the tank and the bottom of the reservoir to make it lean forward towards the
tank. You can also use anything else as a shim for this purpose.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Death to filter cartidges!

I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon. I have no
experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can see, the
cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I hear...DRIP DRIP
DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop worked fine, but if I had
fallen asleep, it would have been disastorous. Now the thing is, I did
COMPLETE cleanining and maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only that, but I
had rinsed the bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just last week!
(killing N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up the
slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the impeller
housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will getting one of
those little filter brushes (the ones that will go through the intake tube
and all) solve this problem? There is NO visible clogging in any part of the
filter or cartridge, yet lo and behold, it IS clogged! :(

Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep, but it
doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't be rinsed out.

I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205 canister
filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I figured rather than
buy another really good filter, I would put the Fluval (it's for a 40 gal
tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media in a mesh bag) on the 55 gallon,
and buy a bio wheel filter for the 10 G.

So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper 10
filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other filter I
end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in mind, if you hate
Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)

Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date: 9/22/2007
1:27 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24107 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
It was overflowing at the intake reservoir, dripping out the backside
and getting on the motor. I made sure the intake tube itself wasn't
clogged, so I guess it is the cartridge (never again will I buy the
cheapo inserts). I will try both of your solutions, Lenny. Thank you.

As far as my potential filter scenario, can anyone help me with that?
I have to buy another filter no matter what (unless everyone agrees
that 180 GPH-rated for 40 gallons will work for a 55 gallon tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Where was it overflowing? It doesn't sound like the suction tube
is clogged
> but rather the filter cartridge.
>
> Here is my blog article with pictures of how I did "surgery" on one
of those
> types of cartridges in order to remove the old carbon.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
important.
> html and/or
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-
penguin-200.
> html It is likely the old carbon in the cartridge that is clogged
up
> preventing the water from flowing through the filter pads.
>
> You can also make sure that the filter housing leans "into" the
tank so that
> if the reservoir ever fills up, it pours over the top of the
cartridge and
> flows back into the tank, rather than out the back of the reservoir
onto the
> floor. I have used a folded up piece of paper to wedge between
outside of
> the tank and the bottom of the reservoir to make it lean forward
towards the
> tank. You can also use anything else as a shim for this purpose.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Death to filter cartidges!
>
> I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon.
I have no
> experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can see,
the
> cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I
hear...DRIP DRIP
> DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop worked fine, but if
I had
> fallen asleep, it would have been disastorous. Now the thing is, I
did
> COMPLETE cleanining and maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only
that, but I
> had rinsed the bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just
last week!
> (killing N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up
the
> slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the
impeller
> housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will getting
one of
> those little filter brushes (the ones that will go through the
intake tube
> and all) solve this problem? There is NO visible clogging in any
part of the
> filter or cartridge, yet lo and behold, it IS clogged! :(
>
> Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep,
but it
> doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't be
rinsed out.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205
canister
> filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I figured
rather than
> buy another really good filter, I would put the Fluval (it's for a
40 gal
> tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media in a mesh bag) on the
55 gallon,
> and buy a bio wheel filter for the 10 G.
>
> So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper
10
> filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other
filter I
> end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in mind, if
you hate
> Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)
>
> Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date:
9/22/2007
> 1:27 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24108 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
I use 2 emperor 400’s on each of my 55’s. Keeps the water nice and clear.
I don’t change the filters often, so the reservoir acts more as a catch
basin to allow sediment to settle. I have been thinking about putting some
of the “marbles” used in canisters or some semi aquatic plants like bamboo
to slow the flow a bit, though I would have to modify the intake so that it
pushes the water to the bottom of the reservoir instead of just pumping it
over the top. Another idea that I have is to expand the reservoir out a bit
so that it connects the 2 HOB’s and then put some aqua-culture medium in
there and grow plants. The plants would also act as a filter medium by
grabbing some of the waste material in the water as food.



For the Emperors, I do wish they would produce filter carts that didn’t have
anything in them. The emperors come with a basket to but carbon or other
filtration material in, so I think that the filter carts having carbon in
them is pretty stupid.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 1:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!



It was overflowing at the intake reservoir, dripping out the backside
and getting on the motor. I made sure the intake tube itself wasn't
clogged, so I guess it is the cartridge (never again will I buy the
cheapo inserts). I will try both of your solutions, Lenny. Thank you.

As far as my potential filter scenario, can anyone help me with that?
I have to buy another filter no matter what (unless everyone agrees
that 180 GPH-rated for 40 gallons will work for a 55 gallon tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Where was it overflowing? It doesn't sound like the suction tube
is clogged
> but rather the filter cartridge.
>
> Here is my blog article with pictures of how I did "surgery" on one
of those
> types of cartridges in order to remove the old carbon.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
important.
> html and/or
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-
penguin-200.
> html It is likely the old carbon in the cartridge that is clogged
up
> preventing the water from flowing through the filter pads.
>
> You can also make sure that the filter housing leans "into" the
tank so that
> if the reservoir ever fills up, it pours over the top of the
cartridge and
> flows back into the tank, rather than out the back of the reservoir
onto the
> floor. I have used a folded up piece of paper to wedge between
outside of
> the tank and the bottom of the reservoir to make it lean forward
towards the
> tank. You can also use anything else as a shim for this purpose.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Death to filter cartidges!
>
> I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon.
I have no
> experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can see,
the
> cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I
hear...DRIP DRIP
> DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop worked fine, but if
I had
> fallen asleep, it would have been disastorous. Now the thing is, I
did
> COMPLETE cleanining and maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only
that, but I
> had rinsed the bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just
last week!
> (killing N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up
the
> slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the
impeller
> housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will getting
one of
> those little filter brushes (the ones that will go through the
intake tube
> and all) solve this problem? There is NO visible clogging in any
part of the
> filter or cartridge, yet lo and behold, it IS clogged! :(
>
> Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep,
but it
> doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't be
rinsed out.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205
canister
> filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I figured
rather than
> buy another really good filter, I would put the Fluval (it's for a
40 gal
> tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media in a mesh bag) on the
55 gallon,
> and buy a bio wheel filter for the 10 G.
>
> So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper
10
> filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other
filter I
> end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in mind, if
you hate
> Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)
>
> Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date:
9/22/2007
> 1:27 PM
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24109 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Eric,



Check with your local fish store (private, not petsmart petco) and see if
they can get some without carbon in it. We have several emporers we use and
our fish store sells replacement cart with carbon and without. We have been
using them for sometime and can not tell a difference between them and the
ones Emperor actually sells. We keep the ones without carbon handy for when
using meds. They work great and are MUCH cheaper!!!!!



Jenn



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!



I use 2 emperor 400’s on each of my 55’s. Keeps the water nice and clear.
I don’t change the filters often, so the reservoir acts more as a catch
basin to allow sediment to settle. I have been thinking about putting some
of the “marbles” used in canisters or some semi aquatic plants like bamboo
to slow the flow a bit, though I would have to modify the intake so that it
pushes the water to the bottom of the reservoir instead of just pumping it
over the top. Another idea that I have is to expand the reservoir out a bit
so that it connects the 2 HOB’s and then put some aqua-culture medium in
there and grow plants. The plants would also act as a filter medium by
grabbing some of the waste material in the water as food.

For the Emperors, I do wish they would produce filter carts that didn’t have
anything in them. The emperors come with a basket to but carbon or other
filtration material in, so I think that the filter carts having carbon in
them is pretty stupid.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 1:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!

It was overflowing at the intake reservoir, dripping out the backside
and getting on the motor. I made sure the intake tube itself wasn't
clogged, so I guess it is the cartridge (never again will I buy the
cheapo inserts). I will try both of your solutions, Lenny. Thank you.

As far as my potential filter scenario, can anyone help me with that?
I have to buy another filter no matter what (unless everyone agrees
that 180 GPH-rated for 40 gallons will work for a 55 gallon tank.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Where was it overflowing? It doesn't sound like the suction tube
is clogged
> but rather the filter cartridge.
>
> Here is my blog article with pictures of how I did "surgery" on one
of those
> types of cartridges in order to remove the old carbon.
> http://goldlenny.
<http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very->
blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
important.
> html and/or
> http://goldlenny.
<http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland->
blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-
penguin-200.
> html It is likely the old carbon in the cartridge that is clogged
up
> preventing the water from flowing through the filter pads.
>
> You can also make sure that the filter housing leans "into" the
tank so that
> if the reservoir ever fills up, it pours over the top of the
cartridge and
> flows back into the tank, rather than out the back of the reservoir
onto the
> floor. I have used a folded up piece of paper to wedge between
outside of
> the tank and the bottom of the reservoir to make it lean forward
towards the
> tank. You can also use anything else as a shim for this purpose.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Death to filter cartidges!
>
> I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon.
I have no
> experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can see,
the
> cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I
hear...DRIP DRIP
> DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop worked fine, but if
I had
> fallen asleep, it would have been disastorous. Now the thing is, I
did
> COMPLETE cleanining and maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only
that, but I
> had rinsed the bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just
last week!
> (killing N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up
the
> slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the
impeller
> housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will getting
one of
> those little filter brushes (the ones that will go through the
intake tube
> and all) solve this problem? There is NO visible clogging in any
part of the
> filter or cartridge, yet lo and behold, it IS clogged! :(
>
> Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep,
but it
> doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't be
rinsed out.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205
canister
> filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I figured
rather than
> buy another really good filter, I would put the Fluval (it's for a
40 gal
> tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media in a mesh bag) on the
55 gallon,
> and buy a bio wheel filter for the 10 G.
>
> So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper
10
> filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other
filter I
> end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in mind, if
you hate
> Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)
>
> Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date:
9/22/2007
> 1:27 PM
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24110 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/23/2007
Subject: Re: Death to filter cartidges!
Will do…thanks!



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!



Eric,

Check with your local fish store (private, not petsmart petco) and see if
they can get some without carbon in it. We have several emporers we use and
our fish store sells replacement cart with carbon and without. We have been
using them for sometime and can not tell a difference between them and the
ones Emperor actually sells. We keep the ones without carbon handy for when
using meds. They work great and are MUCH cheaper!!!!!

Jenn

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of Eric Roberts
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!

I use 2 emperor 400’s on each of my 55’s. Keeps the water nice and clear.
I don’t change the filters often, so the reservoir acts more as a catch
basin to allow sediment to settle. I have been thinking about putting some
of the “marbles” used in canisters or some semi aquatic plants like bamboo
to slow the flow a bit, though I would have to modify the intake so that it
pushes the water to the bottom of the reservoir instead of just pumping it
over the top. Another idea that I have is to expand the reservoir out a bit
so that it connects the 2 HOB’s and then put some aqua-culture medium in
there and grow plants. The plants would also act as a filter medium by
grabbing some of the waste material in the water as food.

For the Emperors, I do wish they would produce filter carts that didn’t have
anything in them. The emperors come with a basket to but carbon or other
filtration material in, so I think that the filter carts having carbon in
them is pretty stupid.

Eric

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 1:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Death to filter cartidges!

It was overflowing at the intake reservoir, dripping out the backside
and getting on the motor. I made sure the intake tube itself wasn't
clogged, so I guess it is the cartridge (never again will I buy the
cheapo inserts). I will try both of your solutions, Lenny. Thank you.

As far as my potential filter scenario, can anyone help me with that?
I have to buy another filter no matter what (unless everyone agrees
that 180 GPH-rated for 40 gallons will work for a 55 gallon tank.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Where was it overflowing? It doesn't sound like the suction tube
is clogged
> but rather the filter cartridge.
>
> Here is my blog article with pictures of how I did "surgery" on one
of those
> types of cartridges in order to remove the old carbon.
> http://goldlenny.
<http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very->
blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-
important.
> html and/or
> http://goldlenny.
<http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland->
blogspot.com/2007/04/filter-profile-marineland-
penguin-200.
> html It is likely the old carbon in the cartridge that is clogged
up
> preventing the water from flowing through the filter pads.
>
> You can also make sure that the filter housing leans "into" the
tank so that
> if the reservoir ever fills up, it pours over the top of the
cartridge and
> flows back into the tank, rather than out the back of the reservoir
onto the
> floor. I have used a folded up piece of paper to wedge between
outside of
> the tank and the bottom of the reservoir to make it lean forward
towards the
> tank. You can also use anything else as a shim for this purpose.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2007 12:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Death to filter cartidges!
>
> I have a little Whisper 10 HOB filter that came with my 10 gallon.
I have no
> experience with any other sort of filter, but as far as I can see,
the
> cartridges are junk! Just before I dozed off last night, I
hear...DRIP DRIP
> DRIP...the filter was overflowing. My drip loop worked fine, but if
I had
> fallen asleep, it would have been disastorous. Now the thing is, I
did
> COMPLETE cleanining and maintainance just 2 weeks ago. Not only
that, but I
> had rinsed the bio-pad and carbon cartridge in mature water just
last week!
> (killing N-bacteria, I know, but I have sponge filters that pick up
the
> slack). All I can figure is that there is mulm built up in the
impeller
> housing, way down where I can't reach. My question is, will getting
one of
> those little filter brushes (the ones that will go through the
intake tube
> and all) solve this problem? There is NO visible clogging in any
part of the
> filter or cartridge, yet lo and behold, it IS clogged! :(
>
> Lenny, I have read and re-read your blog concerning filter upkeep,
but it
> doesn't say anything about invisible obstructions that can't be
rinsed out.
>
> I am setting up a 55 gallon tank tomorrow. I have a Fluval 205
canister
> filter that I was going to put on the 10 gallon, but I figured
rather than
> buy another really good filter, I would put the Fluval (it's for a
40 gal
> tank) and the Whisper 10 (with custom media in a mesh bag) on the
55 gallon,
> and buy a bio wheel filter for the 10 G.
>
> So in summary; I have a 10 gallon tank, a 55 gallon tank, a Whisper
10
> filter (110GPH), a Fluval 205 canister filter, and whatever other
filter I
> end up buying. Please tell me what you would do. (Bear in mind, if
you hate
> Fluval, I will NOT take advice to throw it away.)
>
> Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1023 - Release Date:
9/22/2007
> 1:27 PM
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24111 From: scoobyd559 Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: advice on filters
My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank filled
with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a day.
I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1 algee
eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides of
the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free for
more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it be
better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
tanks?
Thanks so much,
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24112 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Just a rant...
I just needed to tell someone about this. It really ruined my weekend.
I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found on
our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the phone,
and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call him
Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress, and
I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless
logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24113 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Don't let it get to you; not worth stewing about. Petco has sales
several times a year on tanks up to 55 gallons @ $1 per gallon and you
should be able to get a used stand for much less than $100. While
you're waiting for the sale keep checking around for a used stand so
that you already have it when the sale comes up. Most often, a few
Group members usually mention it when the sale shows up. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I just needed to tell someone about this. It really ruined my
weekend.
> I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found on
> our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
phone,
> and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call him
> Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
> doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress,
and
> I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless
> logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24114 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better deal.

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: noahburge2b@...
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...




















I just needed to tell someone about this. It really ruined my weekend.

I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found on

our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the phone,

and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call him

Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me

doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress, and

I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless

logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
























_________________________________________________________________
More photos; more messages; more whatever � Get MORE with Windows Live� Hotmail�. NOW with 5GB storage.
http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24115 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Francina Martinez
<wilderness_girl_22@...> wrote:
>
>
> Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
deal.
>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> From: noahburge2b@...
> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just needed to tell someone about this. It really
ruined my weekend.
>
> I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
on
>
> our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
phone,
>
> and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
him
>
> Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
>
> doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress,
and
>
> I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless
>
> logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> More photos; more messages; more whatever – Get MORE with Windows
Live™ Hotmail®. NOW with 5GB storage.
> http://imagine-windowslive.com/hotmail/?locale=en-
us&ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_mini_5G_0907
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24116 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Oh, cool! I did look at Petco and PetSmart, but I didn't think their
prices were all that great. I will keep an eye out for any sales.
Thanks. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Don't let it get to you; not worth stewing about. Petco has sales
> several times a year on tanks up to 55 gallons @ $1 per gallon and
you
> should be able to get a used stand for much less than $100. While
> you're waiting for the sale keep checking around for a used stand
so
> that you already have it when the sale comes up. Most often, a few
> Group members usually mention it when the sale shows up. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I just needed to tell someone about this. It really ruined my
> weekend.
> > I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
on
> > our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
> phone,
> > and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
him
> > Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
> > doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his
adress,
> and
> > I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the
countless
> > logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24117 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
You can always build your own stand if you are a DIY'er. Check my blog that
shows a simple stand built for $20.00 in materials. Look on the right side
for DIY 65G Stand.

You should also be able to search the local classified site to find the ad
again. Just search for '55' and you should find it. Did it come with a
filter and accessories too? $175.00 seems kind of high unless it was a
really nice stand, like cherry or oak with a detailed finish.

I see you have a yahoo email address. Do you have POP3 set up on your Yahoo
email so you download the email into Outlook, Outlook Express or other email
client? Or do you use webmail to check things? Why would you delete it
from the webmail page? I though Yahoo had unlimited storage for email now.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 3:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...

Don't let it get to you; not worth stewing about. Petco has sales several
times a year on tanks up to 55 gallons @ $1 per gallon and you should be
able to get a used stand for much less than $100. While you're waiting for
the sale keep checking around for a used stand so that you already have it
when the sale comes up. Most often, a few Group members usually mention it
when the sale shows up. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I just needed to tell someone about this. It really ruined my
weekend.
> I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found on
> our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
phone,
> and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call him
> Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
> doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress,
and
> I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless
> logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 9/23/2007
1:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24118 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Well you can definitely use the search function on CL to find the ad.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 4:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...

Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...> wrote:
>
>
> Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better deal.
>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> From: noahburge2b@...
> Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I just needed to tell someone about this. It really
ruined my weekend.
>
> I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
on
>
> our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
phone,
>
> and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
him
>
> Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
>
> doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his adress,
and
>
> I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the countless
>
> logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 9/23/2007
1:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24119 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Bargain deals
I saw an ad last week for a 90 gallon setup complete with everthing
except fish and the asking price was only $150.00, it was already
sold before I called, great price

keep looking, there are some really good bargains out there



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.
>

> > Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
> freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
> deal.
> >
... I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
on our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24120 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: Bargain deals
Many areas have a local shopper that are sold at convenience stores for 50
cents to a dollar. Some of the shoppers have online sites too. Last week I
picked up a 90 gallon w/stand, a long 20 gal, hoods, lights, filters and
heaters... and a big crate of 17 used HOB filters that I cleaned up... cost
me all of $95. There are deals out there. Checkout freestyle.org for you
local area too. Those are freebies.



Grey
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.





>From: AquaticLife� <aquaticlifegroup@...>
>Reply-To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [AquaticLife] Bargain deals
>Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 23:23:27 -0000
>
>
>I saw an ad last week for a 90 gallon setup complete with everthing
>except fish and the asking price was only $150.00, it was already
>sold before I called, great price
>
>keep looking, there are some really good bargains out there
>
>
>
>--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
>wrote:
> >
> > Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.
> >
>
> > > Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
> > freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
> > deal.
> > >
>... I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
>on our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. ...
>

_________________________________________________________________
It�s the Windows Live� Hotmail� you love � on your phone!
http://www.microsoft.com/windowsmobile/mobilehotmail/default.mspx?WT.mc_ID=MobileHMTagline2
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24121 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they have
in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters you
mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are, but
they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the tank at
least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple of
days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there is
nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in one
or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration, just
rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to ensure
they are relatively clean.

Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water parameters,
the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters

My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank filled
with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a day.
I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1 algee
eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides of
the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free for
more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it be
better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
tanks?
Thanks so much,
Melanie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24122 From: Kevin Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: update on my sick girl beta
ok so shes geting worse and i feal realy bad because i dont have the
money for meds but am trying to barrow some i have ben using sea salt
and its ben helping a bit but now she has a hump and its like a big
crack and i know she isent eating and she usaly just floats on the top
or botom or in between i took some more pics and of the tank size and
here wonds but i need help btw way how much sea salt should i use and
per day once or twice a day?

here a link to the pics and there in the folder in this group under the
folder kevins sick beta fish

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/403f?c=
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24123 From: Debra Melton Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: update on my sick girl beta
Kevin,

*"btw way how much sea salt should i use and per day once or twice a day?"*

I cannot comment on ways to help your Betta get better but thge formula for
adding salt I have seen most often and the one I use is 1 tablespoon per
five gallons of water along with "Stress Coat". That is what I use for all
my partial water changes. In my opinion you should mix up five gallons of
water, salt, and Stress Coat and then do daily large partial water changes
for your Betta. If you can get Melafix I have seen it work wonders on my
fish.

Bettas are my favorite fish and I understand how hard it is to not be able
to help them when they are in distress.

Good Luck,

Deb Melton


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24124 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: update on my sick girl beta
With salt, you should NOT be adding more and more to the tank since salt
does not evaporate or go away except with PWC's.

The pictures aren't clear enough for me to determine what is wrong.

You first need to know how big the tank is. It looks around 1G but could be
more or less. You want to start off with a 0.1% dose (1 level teaspoon per
gallon) and work it up to a 0.3% dose over the course of the next 24 hours
(so you would add another 1 level teaspoon per gallon at the 12 hour mark
and another 1 level teaspoon a the 24 hour mark). You want to mix the salt
with a cup of tank water until it is dissolved and then pour it back into
the tank.

Here is an article with more details about salt dosing.
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml

If you've added more than the recommended amount, you need to do PWC's
(partial water changes) with fresh water to remove the overdosed salt water.

Since you don't have a filter, can you add an air pump/stone or something
else to move the water around and help aerate the water?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] update on my sick girl beta

ok so shes geting worse and i feal realy bad because i dont have the money
for meds but am trying to barrow some i have ben using sea salt and its ben
helping a bit but now she has a hump and its like a big crack and i know she
isent eating and she usaly just floats on the top or botom or in between i
took some more pics and of the tank size and here wonds but i need help btw
way how much sea salt should i use and per day once or twice a day?

here a link to the pics and there in the folder in this group under the
folder kevins sick beta fish

http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/403f?c=
<http://pets.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/photos/browse/403f?c=>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 9/23/2007
1:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24125 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/24/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
First, they need a much larger tank. If those are long-bodied goldfish,
they should have a minimum of 50G each. If the "algae eater" is a common
pleco, add another 75G. If they are fancy goldfish, then 30G each, but in
either case, a 200G tank or larger would be the minimum for long term
success and to keep the fish from suffering stress induced health issues
from overcrowding.

The reason for the algae is all of the nutrients available for the algae to
thrive. The nutrients come from the fish urine (ammonia) and feces (breaks
down into various compounds including carbonic acid,
ammonia>nitrite>nitrate, etc.)

They could temporarily overcome some of these excess nutrients by doing more
frequent PWC's (25% partial water changes)... maybe 2 to 3 PWC's per week.
Also, increase the filtration to 10X (750 gph) which will help keep the
water cleaner between PWC's.

You should test the tank and the well water to see how high the ammonia,
nitrite, nitrate, GH, KH and pH are and do not do large PWC's if the numbers
for pH and temperature are much different. The main thing is to have clean
water but it also has to be consistent and not be changing too much, too
fast, which can be stressful to fish.

If the well water is free and they can't afford a larger tank, they should
consider plumbing the tank so it gets a constant supply of fresh well water
(maybe 15G per day or more) and then have an overflow that lets the dirty
water go down the drain or into the garden. This would alleviate the need
for more filtration but you would still have to vacuum the gravel on a
regular basis to remove all of the fish poop and detritus that gets caught
down in the gravel.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 8:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters

My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank filled with 4
huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a day.
I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of filter
that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1 algee eater in
there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides of the tank. I am
going to be moving in with them and any suggestions would be very helpful as
how to keep this tank clean and algee free for more that 3 to 4 days at a
time. Also they use well water. Would it be better if i went out and bought
bottled water by the gallon for the tanks?
Thanks so much,
Melanie



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date: 9/23/2007
1:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24126 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4 feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am sure you are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were won at a fair when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are sopose to be in a pond. I will go to the store and see if I can add more filters and things to the tank. Thank you so much!
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters







Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they have
in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters you
mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are, but
they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the tank at
least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple of
days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there is
nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in one
or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration, just
rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to ensure
they are relatively clean.

Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water parameters,
the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of scoobyd559
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters

My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank filled
with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a day.
I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1 algee
eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides of
the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free for
more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it be
better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
tanks?
Thanks so much,
Melanie


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24127 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger
footprint by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x
4'), which is an improvement (but not by much), but if you're
considering going that route, if you can spare the room the tank
takes up by its coming out another 6" (staying at 4' long) you could
get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am
sure you are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were
won at a fair when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are
sopose to be in a pond. I will go to the store and see if I can add
more filters and things to the tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24128 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
We have to stay with the tank we have. I will have to add more filters to it for them. I am unsure of what size filters they are using. All i have seen is its a double whisper filter and she has 4 filters running. So probly she needs bigger filters and more water in the tank.  I will be all moved in within the next 2 weeks so I will be able to work on it for her then.
Melanie 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:08:15 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters







You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger
footprint by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x
4'), which is an improvement (but not by much), but if you're
considering going that route, if you can spare the room the tank
takes up by its coming out another 6" (staying at 4' long) you could
get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com , tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am
sure you are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were
won at a fair when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are
sopose to be in a pond. I will go to the store and see if I can add
more filters and things to the tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24129 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
While filters will help, you will also need to increase the number of PWC's
(partial water changes) to remove the waste/nitrates from the tank and
gravel. This will also add needed nutrients that the fish are using up from
the water and remove the excess hormones released by the fish. These excess
hormone levels result in the fish realizing they are in an overcrowded
situation and they suffer stress related health issues if not corrected.
Running carbon or one of the better filter media like Purigen will help in
removing DOC's and hormones from the water also but you would still need to
do lots of PWC's to add the good nutrients back into the tank. Overstocked
tanks aren't good for fish but they can be managed with lots of PWC's to
fool the fish into believing they are in a bigger body of water.

Speaking of gravel, if they are like many people, they set up the tank with
about 2"-3" of gravel. This is a bad bacteria haven in overstocked fish
tanks so you should concentrate on doing gravel vacuuming to get deep into
the gravel to remove all of the detritus from the gravel. Once it is coming
up clean, you can slowly start to remove the gravel (over the course of
several weeks) until you only have about 1/2"-1" which will make it much
easier to keep clean in the future. If they have a deep gravel bed now,
this could be the source of all of the nitrates/phosphates that are adding
to the algae problem.

Since they have limited space, what about adding a 55G tank on the floor or
the bottom of the stand under the 75G and then they could add a canister
filter and overflow box and technically increase the water volume to 120G+.

If they can't do multiple PWC's each week or increase tank size/volume, then
they should seriously consider rehoming a couple of the fish, starting with
the algae eater, which would not be needed if the ecosystem for the fish was
good from the start. Because of the overcrowding issue causing the algae,
they bought another fish to eat the algae which just compounded the
overcrowding issue. Then they could work on rehoming two of the goldfish to
someone with a pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

We have to stay with the tank we have. I will have to add more filters to it
for them. I am unsure of what size filters they are using. All i have seen
is its a double whisper filter and she has 4 filters running. So probly she
needs bigger filters and more water in the tank. I will be all moved in
within the next 2 weeks so I will be able to work on it for her then.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:08:15 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger footprint
by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x 4'), which is an
improvement (but not by much), but if you're considering going that route,
if you can spare the room the tank takes up by its coming out another 6"
(staying at 4' long) you could get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a
vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am sure you
are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were won at a fair
when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are sopose to be in a pond. I
will go to the store and see if I can add more filters and things to the
tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24130 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
I will be able to the PWC all the time for them. That is no problem there. Thanks for the tip on the gravel. I didnt know that. I never noticed how much is in there. I will check that out. I am sure adding a tank on the floor wouldnt be a problem. I will check into that and see how to do it. Thank you so much. I am sure once i get all moved in I will be able to maintain the fish now. Thanks so much.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:53:13 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

While filters will help, you will also need to increase the number of PWC's
(partial water changes) to remove the waste/nitrates from the tank and
gravel. This will also add needed nutrients that the fish are using up from
the water and remove the excess hormones released by the fish. These excess
hormone levels result in the fish realizing they are in an overcrowded
situation and they suffer stress related health issues if not corrected.
Running carbon or one of the better filter media like Purigen will help in
removing DOC's and hormones from the water also but you would still need to
do lots of PWC's to add the good nutrients back into the tank. Overstocked
tanks aren't good for fish but they can be managed with lots of PWC's to
fool the fish into believing they are in a bigger body of water.

Speaking of gravel, if they are like many people, they set up the tank with
about 2"-3" of gravel. This is a bad bacteria haven in overstocked fish
tanks so you should concentrate on doing gravel vacuuming to get deep into
the gravel to remove all of the detritus from the gravel. Once it is coming
up clean, you can slowly start to remove the gravel (over the course of
several weeks) until you only have about 1/2"-1" which will make it much
easier to keep clean in the future. If they have a deep gravel bed now,
this could be the source of all of the nitrates/phosphates that are adding
to the algae problem.

Since they have limited space, what about adding a 55G tank on the floor or
the bottom of the stand under the 75G and then they could add a canister
filter and overflow box and technically increase the water volume to 120G+.

If they can't do multiple PWC's each week or increase tank size/volume, then
they should seriously consider rehoming a couple of the fish, starting with
the algae eater, which would not be needed if the ecosystem for the fish was
good from the start. Because of the overcrowding issue causing the algae,
they bought another fish to eat the algae which just compounded the
overcrowding issue. Then they could work on rehoming two of the goldfish to
someone with a pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

We have to stay with the tank we have. I will have to add more filters to it
for them. I am unsure of what size filters they are using. All i have seen
is its a double whisper filter and she has 4 filters running. So probly she
needs bigger filters and more water in the tank. I will be all moved in
within the next 2 weeks so I will be able to work on it for her then.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:08:15 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger footprint
by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x 4'), which is an
improvement (but not by much), but if you're considering going that route,
if you can spare the room the tank takes up by its coming out another 6"
(staying at 4' long) you could get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a
vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am sure you
are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were won at a fair
when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are sopose to be in a pond. I
will go to the store and see if I can add more filters and things to the
tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24131 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Don't you think I thought of that, Lenny? He took it down. The number
he gave me was bogus. My point is, he probably decided to sell it to
someone else.

I believe I said I wasn't computer savvy, I don't know the difference
between POP3 and a hole in the ground. Even if I did, My Outlook
isn't working. I just use Yahoo mail, which will save a sent mail if
you turn that option on. I had not, obviously.

And seriously, Lenny, thank you for the DIY stand info, but I am not
good at building things at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Well you can definitely use the search function on CL to find the
ad.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 4:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...
>
> Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
> freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
deal.
> >
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: noahburge2b@
> > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I just needed to tell someone about this. It really
> ruined my weekend.
> >
> > I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
> on
> >
> > our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
> phone,
> >
> > and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
> him
> >
> > Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
> >
> > doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his
adress,
> and
> >
> > I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the
countless
> >
> > logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
> >
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1025 - Release Date:
9/23/2007
> 1:53 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24132 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Sounds like he was a scammer. There's lots of scams all over the internet
including Craigslist. I hope you didn't give him any credit card info or
anything he might use to bilk you out of money. Hardly anyone actually
removes their ads. Maybe CL removed the ad once they found out he was a
scammer. That's the only time I see an ad removed.

Whenever I sell something on CL, I go back and edit it to show SOLD but I
don't remove the ad. I regularly search for the same type items and I see
the old ads all the time so that's how I know most people don't take them
down.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...

Don't you think I thought of that, Lenny? He took it down. The number he
gave me was bogus. My point is, he probably decided to sell it to someone
else.

I believe I said I wasn't computer savvy, I don't know the difference
between POP3 and a hole in the ground. Even if I did, My Outlook isn't
working. I just use Yahoo mail, which will save a sent mail if you turn that
option on. I had not, obviously.

And seriously, Lenny, thank you for the DIY stand info, but I am not good at
building things at all.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Well you can definitely use the search function on CL to find the
ad.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 4:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...
>
> Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
> freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
deal.
> >
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: noahburge2b@
> > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I just needed to tell someone about this. It really
> ruined my weekend.
> >
> > I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I found
> on
> >
> > our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
> phone,
> >
> > and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
> him
> >
> > Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave me
> >
> > doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his
adress,
> and
> >
> > I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the
countless
> >
> > logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
> >
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24133 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
For the tank on the floor, you'll find lots of info if you search for "sump
tank".

My plans for a simple sump system was to put a 55G on the floor under my
65G, then have one of my canister filters pump the water from the 55G up to
the 65G and have an overflow box on the 65G which would overflow back into
the 55G. Then you could have lots of live plants and other stuff that the
goldfish would normally destroy in their own tank but it would still add to
the ecosystem of the entire set up so the plants would help remove the
nitrates, phosphates and CO2 from the water and add O2 back into the water.
You should still have an HOB type filter on the top tank also to add
additional filtration/circulation to the top tank.

I also have some safety checks and balances so that neither tank would ever
empty or overflow which I could go over with you when if you decide to go
that route. By using the overflow box (around $50.00) and a canister filter
to move the water, it keeps from having to do a lot of plumbing which you
don't seem to like doing (DIY stuff). You can find used 55G tanks for as
low as $10.00 since they can often be bought new for around $55.00. If you
have excess gravel, like I suspect, you could move it to the 55G sump tank
so the plants would have a place to root better, although floating plants
like anacharis do a great job of helping to clean the water.

This would increase the overall system to 130+ gallons which would still
require regular PWC's but it would be much easier on you than all them fish
in the 75G.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

I will be able to the PWC all the time for them. That is no problem there.
Thanks for the tip on the gravel. I didnt know that. I never noticed how
much is in there. I will check that out. I am sure adding a tank on the
floor wouldnt be a problem. I will check into that and see how to do it.
Thank you so much. I am sure once i get all moved in I will be able to
maintain the fish now. Thanks so much.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:53:13 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

While filters will help, you will also need to increase the number of PWC's
(partial water changes) to remove the waste/nitrates from the tank and
gravel. This will also add needed nutrients that the fish are using up from
the water and remove the excess hormones released by the fish. These excess
hormone levels result in the fish realizing they are in an overcrowded
situation and they suffer stress related health issues if not corrected.
Running carbon or one of the better filter media like Purigen will help in
removing DOC's and hormones from the water also but you would still need to
do lots of PWC's to add the good nutrients back into the tank. Overstocked
tanks aren't good for fish but they can be managed with lots of PWC's to
fool the fish into believing they are in a bigger body of water.

Speaking of gravel, if they are like many people, they set up the tank with
about 2"-3" of gravel. This is a bad bacteria haven in overstocked fish
tanks so you should concentrate on doing gravel vacuuming to get deep into
the gravel to remove all of the detritus from the gravel. Once it is coming
up clean, you can slowly start to remove the gravel (over the course of
several weeks) until you only have about 1/2"-1" which will make it much
easier to keep clean in the future. If they have a deep gravel bed now, this
could be the source of all of the nitrates/phosphates that are adding to the
algae problem.

Since they have limited space, what about adding a 55G tank on the floor or
the bottom of the stand under the 75G and then they could add a canister
filter and overflow box and technically increase the water volume to 120G+.

If they can't do multiple PWC's each week or increase tank size/volume, then
they should seriously consider rehoming a couple of the fish, starting with
the algae eater, which would not be needed if the ecosystem for the fish was
good from the start. Because of the overcrowding issue causing the algae,
they bought another fish to eat the algae which just compounded the
overcrowding issue. Then they could work on rehoming two of the goldfish to
someone with a pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of tundra@... <mailto:tundra%40embarqmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

We have to stay with the tank we have. I will have to add more filters to it
for them. I am unsure of what size filters they are using. All i have seen
is its a double whisper filter and she has 4 filters running. So probly she
needs bigger filters and more water in the tank. I will be all moved in
within the next 2 weeks so I will be able to work on it for her then.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com>
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:08:15 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger footprint
by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x 4'), which is an
improvement (but not by much), but if you're considering going that route,
if you can spare the room the tank takes up by its coming out another 6"
(staying at 4' long) you could get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a
vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am sure you
are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were won at a fair
when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are sopose to be in a pond. I
will go to the store and see if I can add more filters and things to the
tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24134 From: Jim Riley Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
Lenny,

I apologize for taking so long to say "thanks" for
responding to my question about fish recommendations
for my freshwater tank. I visited the Web site you
provided, which was a big help. I have a 20 gallon
long tank right now, but will probably have to upgrade
to something bigger at some point.

I have a question about changing around tank ornaments
in a fish tank. I read that when you introduce new
fish to a tank that you should provide plenty of
hiding places for them so they can adjust to their new
environment and keep their stress level to a minimum.
Right now, I have two plastic plants on each side of
the tank and a small bridge in the middle that my
three Giant Danios like to swim underneath from time
to time. I am considering changing the ornaments
around or even adding something new. What is the best
way to go about doing this? Should I leave the fish in
the tank when changing things around? If I stick my
arm down into the water, will it affect the water
parameters? Sorry about all the questions, but I won't
learn unless I ask. :) If others on the message board
would like to chime in on my questions, please do.
Thanks!

- Jim


--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> One place that will tell you some compatible tank
> mates in their profiles is
> Mongabay. Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and put
> the type of fish you are
> interested in to look at the profile and there is a
> section called SC
> (Species Compatibility) which will give you an idea
> of suitable tank mates.
>
>
> Here is the profile for Giant Danios...
>
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Danio_aequipinnatus.html
>
> Here is the SC paragraph...
> SC: Loaches, Epalzeorhynchus , Loricarids, Armored
> Catfish ( Corydoras ),
> Danios, Gouramis, Acaras, Eartheaters, larger barbs.
>
> Here is the tank recommendation for Giant Danios...
> TANK: A school can be kept in a tank measuring 36"
> (91 cm) with a volume of
> 30 gallons (114 L), although they would prefer a
> longer tank (48"). Leave
> open swimming areas and plant the corners with
> robust plants. Use a
> tight-fitting cover.
>
> Is your 20G a long tank or tall tank? Hopefully a
> 20G LONG so it will be
> suitable for a while but you should look to upgrade
> in tank size so they
> will have sufficient swimming area and water volume
> to grow into since many
> of the compatible tank mates require larger tanks as
> well.
>
> Your next step would be to look at the profiles on
> each of those to see what
> their tank requirements are and then look at what is
> available in your LFS
> or pet store.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 2:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Tropical Freshwater Fish
> Recommendations
>
> Hi,
>
> I have three Giant Danios, which I've had for over a
> month now. They're all
> doing well. I am at a point now where I'd like to
> add one or two more fish
> to the tank (20 gallons), but am not sure what kinds
> of fish would get along
> well with the Giant Danios. Could someone provide
> some recommendations on
> fish that would make good additions to the current
> inhabitants of my tank?
> Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.28/1021 -
> Release Date: 9/21/2007
> 2:02 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24135 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
I personally don't think moving things around (or doing PWC's) cause much
stress to your fish and it does help when you have territorial fish to break
up the territory when adding new fish. I'm not sure Danio's are very
territorial but I've never owned Giant Danios. Sure it might make them zip
around while you are moving things but as soon as you stop, they usually go
back to normal... well most fish do. I did have an adopted/saved pair of
blue gourami's that stayed skittish even after I had them for over a year.
They would hide whenever I'd come near the tank even to feed them and would
then dart out from behind a plant to eat and run right back behind the
plant. I think that's the exception, rather than the rule. The kinds of
stress that is harmful to fish goes a lot further than when you fool with
their decorations. I'm sure my overly skittish Gourami's did suffer stress
induced health issues because they were such nervous nellies. I saved them
from a severely overcrowded 10G tank but they never did learn to trust us
humans again.

Here's a snip from my Health & Disease blog page with several articles
dealing with stress and how it affects a fishes immune system....

Non-Disease Diagnosis:

Are Your Fish Really Suffering From Disease? A guide to non-disease causes
of illness http://www3.sympatico.ca/drosera1/fish/illness.htm (GoldLenny)

Shock diagnosis: http://groups.msn.com/FishHealth/shock.msnw (Hailey)

Stress Related Problems:

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FA005 (DataGuru from TheGAB.org)

http://www.cs.duke.edu/~narten/faq/stress.html (GoldLenny)

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=16&cat=1791&articleid=2476
(GoldLenny)

http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-stress.html (GoldLenny)

http://www.aquariumfish.net/information/signs_of_stress_and_disease.htm
(GoldLenny)

http://www.algone.com/fishstress.php (GoldLenny)


As far as putting your arm in the tank, as long as you don't have any
lotions, perfumes, soaps, etc., on your skin, you should be fine. I usually
rinse my arms and hands under hot water for a little while to rinse off
anything on my skin (including any human oils on the skin) and then stick
them it to move things.

I also have a little grabber thing that I use for smaller jobs. I got it
online, I think at BigAlsOnline.com or MarineDepot.com but I've seen them on
PetsMart.com also. It was on a clearance page for $5.00. It's all plastic
and kind of cheap but still works fine. It's thumb operated on one end with
a little pair of claws on the other end. I've seen much better "tools" sold
for aquarium use that also includes interchangeable heads so you can have
the claw or scissors, etc., which people use in their planted tanks to prune
and groom their plants.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 2:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations

Lenny,

I apologize for taking so long to say "thanks" for responding to my question
about fish recommendations for my freshwater tank. I visited the Web site
you provided, which was a big help. I have a 20 gallon long tank right now,
but will probably have to upgrade to something bigger at some point.

I have a question about changing around tank ornaments in a fish tank. I
read that when you introduce new fish to a tank that you should provide
plenty of hiding places for them so they can adjust to their new environment
and keep their stress level to a minimum.
Right now, I have two plastic plants on each side of the tank and a small
bridge in the middle that my three Giant Danios like to swim underneath from
time to time. I am considering changing the ornaments around or even adding
something new. What is the best way to go about doing this? Should I leave
the fish in the tank when changing things around? If I stick my arm down
into the water, will it affect the water parameters? Sorry about all the
questions, but I won't learn unless I ask. :) If others on the message board
would like to chime in on my questions, please do.
Thanks!

- Jim


--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> One place that will tell you some compatible tank mates in their
> profiles is Mongabay. Go to http://fish.mongabay.com
> <http://fish.mongabay.com> and put the type of fish you are
> interested in to look at the profile and there is a section called SC
> (Species Compatibility) which will give you an idea of suitable tank
> mates.
>
>
> Here is the profile for Giant Danios...
>
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Danio_aequipinnatus.html
<http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Danio_aequipinnatus.html>
>
> Here is the SC paragraph...
> SC: Loaches, Epalzeorhynchus , Loricarids, Armored Catfish ( Corydoras
> ), Danios, Gouramis, Acaras, Eartheaters, larger barbs.
>
> Here is the tank recommendation for Giant Danios...
> TANK: A school can be kept in a tank measuring 36"
> (91 cm) with a volume of
> 30 gallons (114 L), although they would prefer a longer tank (48").
> Leave open swimming areas and plant the corners with robust plants.
> Use a tight-fitting cover.
>
> Is your 20G a long tank or tall tank? Hopefully a 20G LONG so it will
> be suitable for a while but you should look to upgrade in tank size so
> they will have sufficient swimming area and water volume to grow into
> since many of the compatible tank mates require larger tanks as well.
>
> Your next step would be to look at the profiles on each of those to
> see what their tank requirements are and then look at what is
> available in your LFS or pet store.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 2:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Tropical Freshwater Fish Recommendations
>
> Hi,
>
> I have three Giant Danios, which I've had for over a month now.
> They're all doing well. I am at a point now where I'd like to add one
> or two more fish to the tank (20 gallons), but am not sure what kinds
> of fish would get along well with the Giant Danios. Could someone
> provide some recommendations on fish that would make good additions to
> the current inhabitants of my tank?
> Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24136 From: Andrew Smallacombe Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
> Also they use well water. Would it be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?

Using well water does entail risks of contamination by pesticides,
and the water might contain significant quanitities of phosphorus,
calcium or iron. Put some in a plastic bucket for at least 24
hours. If the water changes colour, white "balls" appear on the
surface, or it develops a strange smell, don't use it for your tanks.
Also, well water tends to be quite cold and has a low volume of
dissolved oxygen, so you might want to leave it in the sun and put an
air stone it it for a few hours before using it.

I had to experiment with filtration systems for my 90x45x45 cm tank
(sorry, don't know what that is in gallons) for my carp. I am now
using the original overhead filter (pump rated at 14 litres/minute)
with a long extension pipe so the strainer touches the floor of the
tank. I removed all the gravel and replaced the largest pieces to
just one grain/pebble thickness. This is complimented with an
internal filter (powered by a Rio 1400 powerhead) with an airation
tube. The tank has been much cleaner with this setup, and easier to
maintain. My overhead filter needs cleaning more regularly than
before, but less effort is needed for vacuuming.

Hope this helps!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24137 From: Ro Date: 9/25/2007
Subject: Re: Bargain deals
Last year I found on craigslist a tank they had posted as a 190
gallons... I got it for $250. When I got it home it turned to be a 225
g. with an incredible 50g. sump filter (extremely dirty), a huge
skimmer and a UV sterilizer (it needed the bulb replaced). I have 2
bamboo sharks, a large panther grouper and a yellow head moray in it
now. If any of you want to see pics of this tank and a vid of them
eating, I have them on my blog.
Ro
www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24138 From: gorsford Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: about guppy grass
the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish
is it normal?
i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks
there is enough light in the tank too
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24139 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
Thanks so much. i will do that.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Smallacombe" <andrewsmallacombe@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 4:52:09 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters







> Also they use well water. Would it be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?

Using well water does entail risks of contamination by pesticides,
and the water might contain significant quanitities of phosphorus,
calcium or iron. Put some in a plastic bucket for at least 24
hours. If the water changes colour, white "balls" appear on the
surface, or it develops a strange smell, don't use it for your tanks.
Also, well water tends to be quite cold and has a low volume of
dissolved oxygen, so you might want to leave it in the sun and put an
air stone it it for a few hours before using it.

I had to experiment with filtration systems for my 90x45x45 cm tank
(sorry, don't know what that is in gallons) for my carp. I am now
using the original overhead filter (pump rated at 14 litres/minute)
with a long extension pipe so the strainer touches the floor of the
tank. I removed all the gravel and replaced the largest pieces to
just one grain/pebble thickness. This is complimented with an
internal filter (powered by a Rio 1400 powerhead) with an airation
tube. The tank has been much cleaner with this setup, and easier to
maintain. My overhead filter needs cleaning more regularly than
before, but less effort is needed for vacuuming.

Hope this helps!



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24140 From: tundra@embarqmail.com Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: advice on filters
thanks so much. not exactly sure yet when we will all be moved in so it might be a while before i can get all that done and set up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 1:25:23 PM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

For the tank on the floor, you'll find lots of info if you search for "sump
tank".

My plans for a simple sump system was to put a 55G on the floor under my
65G, then have one of my canister filters pump the water from the 55G up to
the 65G and have an overflow box on the 65G which would overflow back into
the 55G. Then you could have lots of live plants and other stuff that the
goldfish would normally destroy in their own tank but it would still add to
the ecosystem of the entire set up so the plants would help remove the
nitrates, phosphates and CO2 from the water and add O2 back into the water.
You should still have an HOB type filter on the top tank also to add
additional filtration/circulation to the top tank.

I also have some safety checks and balances so that neither tank would ever
empty or overflow which I could go over with you when if you decide to go
that route. By using the overflow box (around $50.00) and a canister filter
to move the water, it keeps from having to do a lot of plumbing which you
don't seem to like doing (DIY stuff). You can find used 55G tanks for as
low as $10.00 since they can often be bought new for around $55.00. If you
have excess gravel, like I suspect, you could move it to the 55G sump tank
so the plants would have a place to root better, although floating plants
like anacharis do a great job of helping to clean the water.

This would increase the overall system to 130+ gallons which would still
require regular PWC's but it would be much easier on you than all them fish
in the 75G.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of tundra@...
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

I will be able to the PWC all the time for them. That is no problem there.
Thanks for the tip on the gravel. I didnt know that. I never noticed how
much is in there. I will check that out. I am sure adding a tank on the
floor wouldnt be a problem. I will check into that and see how to do it.
Thank you so much. I am sure once i get all moved in I will be able to
maintain the fish now. Thanks so much.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:53:13 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

While filters will help, you will also need to increase the number of PWC's
(partial water changes) to remove the waste/nitrates from the tank and
gravel. This will also add needed nutrients that the fish are using up from
the water and remove the excess hormones released by the fish. These excess
hormone levels result in the fish realizing they are in an overcrowded
situation and they suffer stress related health issues if not corrected.
Running carbon or one of the better filter media like Purigen will help in
removing DOC's and hormones from the water also but you would still need to
do lots of PWC's to add the good nutrients back into the tank. Overstocked
tanks aren't good for fish but they can be managed with lots of PWC's to
fool the fish into believing they are in a bigger body of water.

Speaking of gravel, if they are like many people, they set up the tank with
about 2"-3" of gravel. This is a bad bacteria haven in overstocked fish
tanks so you should concentrate on doing gravel vacuuming to get deep into
the gravel to remove all of the detritus from the gravel. Once it is coming
up clean, you can slowly start to remove the gravel (over the course of
several weeks) until you only have about 1/2"-1" which will make it much
easier to keep clean in the future. If they have a deep gravel bed now, this
could be the source of all of the nitrates/phosphates that are adding to the
algae problem.

Since they have limited space, what about adding a 55G tank on the floor or
the bottom of the stand under the 75G and then they could add a canister
filter and overflow box and technically increase the water volume to 120G+.

If they can't do multiple PWC's each week or increase tank size/volume, then
they should seriously consider rehoming a couple of the fish, starting with
the algae eater, which would not be needed if the ecosystem for the fish was
good from the start. Because of the overcrowding issue causing the algae,
they bought another fish to eat the algae which just compounded the
overcrowding issue. Then they could work on rehoming two of the goldfish to
someone with a pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
Behalf Of tundra@... <mailto:tundra%40embarqmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 8:13 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

We have to stay with the tank we have. I will have to add more filters to it
for them. I am unsure of what size filters they are using. All i have seen
is its a double whisper filter and she has 4 filters running. So probly she
needs bigger filters and more water in the tank. I will be all moved in
within the next 2 weeks so I will be able to work on it for her then.
Melanie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raymond Wetzel" <sevenspringss@...
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com>
<mailto:sevenspringss%40wmconnect.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 9:08:15 AM (GMT-0500) America/New_York
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: advice on filters

You could get a somewhat bigger tank without it taking up a larger footprint
by getting a 90 gallon tank which is taller (still 18" x 4'), which is an
improvement (but not by much), but if you're considering going that route,
if you can spare the room the tank takes up by its coming out another 6"
(staying at 4' long) you could get a 120 gallon tank (2' x 4') which is a
vast improvement over the
75 gallon your grandparents presently have. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
tundra@... wrote:
>
> Thank you both so much. They cant get a bigger tank. This tank is 4
feet long and takes up the entire side of there living room. I am sure you
are right they probly do need a bigger tank. The fish were won at a fair
when they were tiny and grew to be huge. They are sopose to be in a pond. I
will go to the store and see if I can add more filters and things to the
tank. Thank you so much!
> Melanie
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Szabo" <steve@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 7:51:28 PM (GMT-0500)
America/New_York
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sounds like they need at least a 150 gallon tank for the fish they
have
> in there. That would help an awful lot. I don't know if the filters
you
> mention are adequate, since you do not mention what size they are,
but
> they should hae enough flow to turn over the water volume in the
tank at
> least 6 times an hour. I'd probably do a water change every couple
of
> days, and you can continue to use the well water as long as there
is
> nothing in the water to make you do different. I'd probably put in
one
> or two large sponge filters to help with the biological filtration,
just
> rinse them in tank water you have removed for a water change to
ensure
> they are relatively clean.
>
> Beyond that, we would need more information, like the water
parameters,
> the size of the fish, etc to make a better judgement.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:
AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of scoobyd559
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 9:37 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] advice on filters
>
> My grandmother and grandfather have a 75 gallon very long tank
filled
> with 4 huge goldfish. She has 4 whisper filters running 24 hours a
day.
> I realize goldfish are very dirty fish but isnt there some kind of
> filter that can keep up with how dirty they are? She also has 1
algee
> eater in there and there is still green stuff growing on the sides
of
> the tank. I am going to be moving in with them and any suggestions
> would be very helpful as how to keep this tank clean and algee free
for
> more that 3 to 4 days at a time. Also they use well water. Would it
be
> better if i went out and bought bottled water by the gallon for the
> tanks?
> Thanks so much,
> Melanie
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date: 9/24/2007
7:09 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24141 From: Paula Brown Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Airstone Question
This is probably an easy question that I am just not coming up with an
answer:

I will soon start up my five something gallon tank for just live
plants. It originally had an undergravel filter (which I hated), so I
don't plan on using that. Just an airstone for now. The question is
how the heck do I keep the airstone in the water without it just
floating to the top? I need something to weight it down but I know the
live plant weights I have won't be strong enough.

This question also pertains to our outside 160 gallon inground pond -
we want to keep an airstone in it for the winter (it is in Ohio) but it
too just floats. We have pea gravel on the bottom but it is the same
with the gravel in the above-referenced plant tank - the airstone just
floats right out even with the gravel covering the airline.

There has to be an easy solution here but I sure am not seeing it!
Thanks!

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24142 From: Francina Martinez Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Perhaps a nutritional deficiency? What is fertilizers do you use?
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: kfsee0213@...
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:10:05 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass




















the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish

is it normal?

i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks

there is enough light in the tank too
























_________________________________________________________________
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http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24143 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
Check your fish store for air line guides. (I think that's what they're
called) Essentially just a suction cup with a holder that you slip the air
line in. Kinda like the plastic holders for heaters. They're usually like
a couple bucks for a package of 5.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Airstone Question



This is probably an easy question that I am just not coming up with an
answer:

I will soon start up my five something gallon tank for just live
plants. It originally had an undergravel filter (which I hated), so I
don't plan on using that. Just an airstone for now. The question is
how the heck do I keep the airstone in the water without it just
floating to the top? I need something to weight it down but I know the
live plant weights I have won't be strong enough.

This question also pertains to our outside 160 gallon inground pond -
we want to keep an airstone in it for the winter (it is in Ohio) but it
too just floats. We have pea gravel on the bottom but it is the same
with the gravel in the above-referenced plant tank - the airstone just
floats right out even with the gravel covering the airline.

There has to be an easy solution here but I sure am not seeing it!
Thanks!

Paula





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24144 From: The Dragon Hunter Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
Just saw you were also referring to a pond. Don't think the suction cups
would work on a pond. But.They do have those large air stones that look
like a blue brick in plastic that are meant to be buried. Get one of those
and bury it under a bunch of small pebbles. Hope that helps ya out.



-Steve



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 7:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Airstone Question



This is probably an easy question that I am just not coming up with an
answer:

I will soon start up my five something gallon tank for just live
plants. It originally had an undergravel filter (which I hated), so I
don't plan on using that. Just an airstone for now. The question is
how the heck do I keep the airstone in the water without it just
floating to the top? I need something to weight it down but I know the
live plant weights I have won't be strong enough.

This question also pertains to our outside 160 gallon inground pond -
we want to keep an airstone in it for the winter (it is in Ohio) but it
too just floats. We have pea gravel on the bottom but it is the same
with the gravel in the above-referenced plant tank - the airstone just
floats right out even with the gravel covering the airline.

There has to be an easy solution here but I sure am not seeing it!
Thanks!

Paula





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24145 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Airstone Question
For the over-wintering pond, you don't really want the airstone on the
bottom anyhow. You don't want to create water movement, just bubbles at the
surface to keep ice from forming so the pond will be able to outgas excess
CO2 and other harmful gases. You want the pond to develop thermoclines and
the fish will find and stay in a thermocline that suits their "hibernation".
For the summer, you would have to weigh it down. Tie it to a brick with a
nylon tie and sink it. I have links to several overwintering articles on my
blog under my pond blogs.

For the tank, there are the little suction cups that stick to the glass or
bottom glass and then the airline tube gets snapped into the holder and that
can all be covered with the gravel.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 9:41 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Airstone Question

This is probably an easy question that I am just not coming up with an
answer:

I will soon start up my five something gallon tank for just live plants. It
originally had an undergravel filter (which I hated), so I don't plan on
using that. Just an airstone for now. The question is how the heck do I keep
the airstone in the water without it just floating to the top? I need
something to weight it down but I know the live plant weights I have won't
be strong enough.

This question also pertains to our outside 160 gallon inground pond - we
want to keep an airstone in it for the winter (it is in Ohio) but it too
just floats. We have pea gravel on the bottom but it is the same with the
gravel in the above-referenced plant tank - the airstone just floats right
out even with the gravel covering the airline.

There has to be an easy solution here but I sure am not seeing it!
Thanks!

Paula


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24146 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Just a rant...
Thankfully, I didn't give him any info or payment whatsoever. (All he
had was my phone #) I never even laid eyes on the tank or the guy,
nor him me, so if he is a scammer, he's pretty bad at it, lol.
But thank you. I didn't even think about the possibility of a scam.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like he was a scammer. There's lots of scams all over the
internet
> including Craigslist. I hope you didn't give him any credit card
info or
> anything he might use to bilk you out of money. Hardly anyone
actually
> removes their ads. Maybe CL removed the ad once they found out he
was a
> scammer. That's the only time I see an ad removed.
>
> Whenever I sell something on CL, I go back and edit it to show SOLD
but I
> don't remove the ad. I regularly search for the same type items
and I see
> the old ads all the time so that's how I know most people don't
take them
> down.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 12:07 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...
>
> Don't you think I thought of that, Lenny? He took it down. The
number he
> gave me was bogus. My point is, he probably decided to sell it to
someone
> else.
>
> I believe I said I wasn't computer savvy, I don't know the
difference
> between POP3 and a hole in the ground. Even if I did, My Outlook
isn't
> working. I just use Yahoo mail, which will save a sent mail if you
turn that
> option on. I had not, obviously.
>
> And seriously, Lenny, thank you for the DIY stand info, but I am
not good at
> building things at all.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Well you can definitely use the search function on CL to find the
> ad.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 4:49 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Just a rant...
> >
> > Yeah, Craig's list is where I found that one.
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Keep an eye on craigslist.org in your area and sign up with the
> > freecycle group in your area. You might be able to find a better
> deal.
> > >
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > > From: noahburge2b@
> > > Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2007 19:53:42 +0000
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Just a rant...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I just needed to tell someone about this. It really
> > ruined my weekend.
> > >
> > > I had a space all set for a 55 gallon tank and stand that I
found
> > on
> > >
> > > our local classified site. The guy wanted $175. we spoke on the
> > phone,
> > >
> > > and he said he would be out of town over the weekend and to call
> > him
> > >
> > > Sunday and I could pick it up Monday. The phone number he gave
me
> > >
> > > doesn't work, I didn't save the e-mail I sent to him or his
> adress,
> > and
> > >
> > > I am not computer savvy enough to find the addy among the
> countless
> > >
> > > logs and such on the hard drive. Easy come, easy go I guess. :(
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1029 - Release Date:
9/24/2007
> 7:09 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24147 From: Zinfin Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Best fish to breed
Hello group,

My 10 year old son is interested in trying to raise some fish from
eggs to fry to adult. I would like it to be easy to find those fish
babies new homes when the time is right. I also don't want to be over
run with fry like might happen with guppies or other live bearers or
even convict cichlids. If it is possible to sell or trade the fry to
a LFS, that would be a bonus education factor.

What do you recommend?

Thanks,
Zinfin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24148 From: Alex See Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Let me put some seachem plant supplement in it and see how the grass reacts
hopefully they will turn green again

I put salt in the tank. would that affect the grass too?

On 9/26/07, Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Perhaps a nutritional deficiency? What is fertilizers do you use?
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> From: kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:10:05 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass
>
> the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish
>
> is it normal?
>
> i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks
>
> there is enough light in the tank too
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Discover the new Windows Vista
> http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=windows+vista&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24149 From: William Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Best fish to breed
If you were to go to several LFS and ask them if they buy fish from
local breeders and what types you might get your answer. Another way
to get out of having too many fish of the same kind is to go to a
local aquarium club, Most will be able to sell, give away or auction
off fish there. Plus you will get tips on how to breed certain fish.
You do not mention what size tank(s) that you have. If you have
at least a 20 gallon high then you might be able to breed angelfish
which are almost always in demand.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Zinfin" <zinfin@...> wrote:
>
> Hello group,
>
> My 10 year old son is interested in trying to raise some fish from
> eggs to fry to adult. I would like it to be easy to find those
fish
> babies new homes when the time is right. I also don't want to be
over
> run with fry like might happen with guppies or other live bearers
or
> even convict cichlids. If it is possible to sell or trade the fry
to
> a LFS, that would be a bonus education factor.
>
> What do you recommend?
>
> Thanks,
> Zinfin
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24150 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
I am not familiar with guppy grass, as you call it. However, many plants
do not tolerate salt very well with larger doses being more damaging to
the plant. Using salt for therapeutic purposes, as you would when trying
to cure a fish or fishes from a disease would produce little effect on
all but the most sensitive plants, but the duration is relatively brief
and the plants, if affected would recover fairly quickly. But, a
constant dosing of slat for prophylactic purposes would not be
recommended in a planted tank because the plants would have no respite,
and would have to adapt, if they could, or not do well in the
environment you have created.

You mentioned that the plants were relatively new. The leaves may be
yellow due to transplant shock, and/or that the plant really did not get
enough of the proper nutrition while it was in the distribution chain.
Adding the fertilizer may not hurt, but it may also not be necessary at
this stage of the game.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 7:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass

Let me put some seachem plant supplement in it and see how the grass
reacts
hopefully they will turn green again

I put salt in the tank. would that affect the grass too?

On 9/26/07, Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> Perhaps a nutritional deficiency? What is fertilizers do you use?
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> From: kfsee0213@... <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:10:05 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass
>
> the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish
>
> is it normal?
>
> i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks
>
> there is enough light in the tank too
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24151 From: ipartyforfun Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Anyone ever heard of www.tfdfish.com??
Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone had ever had any dealings with or
ordered from tfdfish.com? I am thinking about getting together an
order but have heard one really good thing (which is how I foudn out
about it) and another really bad opinion.

Anyone with any thoughts??

Thanks,
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24152 From: ming yeung Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: less brown algae
Two weeks ago, my tank had brown algae problem on my
fake plants and decorations. After changing the new
bulb, brown algae is well controlled. The bulb was
two years old. It grows slow and less than two weeks
ago. I am still using 30W fluorescent light.


____________________________________________________________________________________
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/3658
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24153 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Best fish to breed
You should check with your LFS' to see what they might be interested in
buying or trading and then work from there. Most easy to breed fish such as
livebearers (guppies, platies, etc.) usually breed so easily, even in the
stores own tanks, that I doubt that they buy them very often.

Check to see if they have Cherry Shrimp for sale and if they would be
interested in purchasing/bartering them from you. They are fairly easy to
breed... at least the first 25 that I bought sure seem to be reproducing
without any help on my part in my 10G planted tank. You can buy Cherry
Shrimp at Aquabid.com or maybe someone on this list has some for sale. I
should probably sell some of mine but I haven't had the time to get the
shipping materials together to even attempt my first sale on the internet.
I'll probably just suck some of mine up with the gravel vacuum and trade
them in at my LFS for 50 cents each when I'm ready to buy some supplies for
my other tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Zinfin
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 4:52 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Best fish to breed

Hello group,

My 10 year old son is interested in trying to raise some fish from eggs to
fry to adult. I would like it to be easy to find those fish babies new homes
when the time is right. I also don't want to be over run with fry like might
happen with guppies or other live bearers or even convict cichlids. If it is
possible to sell or trade the fry to a LFS, that would be a bonus education
factor.

What do you recommend?

Thanks,
Zinfin


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24154 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
Many plants are not tolerant to salt. Why did you put salt in the tank?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Alex See
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 6:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass

Let me put some seachem plant supplement in it and see how the grass reacts
hopefully they will turn green again

I put salt in the tank. would that affect the grass too?

On 9/26/07, Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...
<mailto:wilderness_girl_22%40msn.com> > wrote:
>
>
>
> Perhaps a nutritional deficiency? What is fertilizers do you use?



> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> From: kfsee0213@... <mailto:kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:10:05 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass
>
> the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish
>
> is it normal?
>
> i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks
>
> there is enough light in the tank too
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24155 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Anyone ever heard of www.tfdfish.com??
When ever I want to check out a company online, I do a Google search of the
name in "quotes" followed by the word, 'complaint', which usually turns up
any articles or forum threads with complaints about the company. I didn't
find a lot on them but I did find this very long thread on Monster Fish
Keepers all about "Tropical Fish Distributors" (aka tfdfish.com).

Enjoy the read....
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?s=fee64df9c289c22382
86d54c98661758&t=29302

I was disappointed in that ONLY 242 hits were found on the website URL,
which is kind of low. I get over 5,000 hits on my own forum name,
GoldLenny, so I did a second search on 'tfdfish.com complaint' and didn't
find any complaints with that search either. They seem to have lots of
references to them about "monster fish" but I guess they sell all types.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 7:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Anyone ever heard of www.tfdfish.com??

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone had ever had any dealings with or
ordered from tfdfish.com? I am thinking about getting together an order but
have heard one really good thing (which is how I foudn out about it) and
another really bad opinion.

Anyone with any thoughts??

Thanks,
Jenn



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24156 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: Re shipping cherry shrimp
What size water bottle? I'm guessing a 16 or 32 oz would work. I got my
first 25 in a quart size plastic bag with some guppy grass. That's the main
thing is to have some grass or something for them to hold onto. Thanks for
the tip. That sounds a lot easier than bagging them and worrying about the
bag breaking.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Joesbirds@... [mailto:Joesbirds@...]
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 10:10 PM
To: GoldLenny@...
Subject: Re shipping cherry shrimp

Lenny just to give you a heads up. I had some shrimp sent to me very
successfully in a water bottle with some java moss.



_

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date: 9/25/2007
8:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24157 From: Alex See Date: 9/26/2007
Subject: Re: about guppy grass
for breeding amano shrimp
I tool the plant out under the white light and observed. the yellow leaves
are green under the white light. they must be thinner then the existing
leaves and the color of the light made them look yellow.

On 9/27/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Many plants are not tolerant to salt. Why did you put salt in the tank?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Alex See
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 6:23 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass
>
> Let me put some seachem plant supplement in it and see how the grass
> reacts
> hopefully they will turn green again
>
> I put salt in the tank. would that affect the grass too?
>
> On 9/26/07, Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...
> <mailto:wilderness_girl_22%40msn.com> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > Perhaps a nutritional deficiency? What is fertilizers do you use?
>
>
>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > From: kfsee0213@... <mailto:kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> > <kfsee0213%40gmail.com>
> > Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2007 08:10:05 +0000
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] about guppy grass
> >
> > the new leaves that just grew out are yellowish
> >
> > is it normal?
> >
> > i just got the guppy grass for 2 weeks
> >
> > there is enough light in the tank too
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.30/1030 - Release Date:
> 9/25/2007
> 8:02 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24158 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Question about substrate
I have seen some planted aquarium and I am wondering what do they use? Some looks like plain soil. I bought a bag of tiny pebbles but it was labeled aquarium soil. It is not the same as the ones I see in planted tanks. I asked one sales person in a pet store that made the planted aquarium and told me that he used (I think it was red coral) and then planting soil on top of it and then laterite or is it laterite first. Anyway, can anyone give me advice on what to get? Thanks in advance.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24159 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: dumb question about test strips
Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24160 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
There's lots of options. This page is a good start on various substrates.
http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_substrate.htm This article,
http://thegab.org/Articles/WalstadTank.html, gives the details on a simple
substrate using garden/potting soil.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 5:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question about substrate

I have seen some planted aquarium and I am wondering what do they use? Some
looks like plain soil. I bought a bag of tiny pebbles but it was labeled
aquarium soil. It is not the same as the ones I see in planted tanks. I
asked one sales person in a pet store that made the planted aquarium and
told me that he used (I think it was red coral) and then planting soil on
top of it and then laterite or is it laterite first. Anyway, can anyone give
me advice on what to get? Thanks in advance.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24161 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24162 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24163 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Is it API or just AP? I know about API, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.,
http://www.aquariumpharm.com but I know there is an AP (Aquatic Products) or
something like that also. The rest of the thread isn't in your reply so I'm
going from memory here but you seemed to imply they were test strips but the
only API test kit that I'm familiar with has test tubes and liquid reagent
drops. Which type do you have? I found my previous reply and copy/pasted
it below so we have the full thread again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan



On behalf of GoldLenny

What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24164 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
They are API Strips.
Susan

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Is it API or just AP? I know about API, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.,
http://www.aquariumpharm.com but I know there is an AP (Aquatic Products) or
something like that also. The rest of the thread isn't in your reply so I'm
going from memory here but you seemed to imply they were test strips but the
only API test kit that I'm familiar with has test tubes and liquid reagent
drops. Which type do you have? I found my previous reply and copy/pasted
it below so we have the full thread again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan



On behalf of GoldLenny

What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24165 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
Hmmmmm. I've never seen API dip strips. Maybe it's something they only
sell across the pond. Here's their main website page on test kits and ALL
of them are the test tube and drops type.
http://www.aquariumpharm.com/en_us/productCategory.asp?categoryname=TestKits
. I did a Google for Aquatic Pharmaceutical and there does not seem to be a
company under that name so I'm guessing the API is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,
Inc., so my next question would be... are those test strips current and not
out of date? Could this be a product that API sold years ago and somehow
your LFS or pet store still had them on the shelf? If so, they may not be
reliable any longer. Check for an expiration date on the package or go to
the link above and there is a Contact Us page on API's main web site where
you can ask them for more info and they reply promptly every time I've
contacted them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

They are API Strips.
Susan

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Is it API or just AP? I know about API, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.,
http://www.aquariumpharm.com but I know there is an AP (Aquatic Products) or
something like that also. The rest of the thread isn't in your reply so I'm
going from memory here but you seemed to imply they were test strips but the
only API test kit that I'm familiar with has test tubes and liquid reagent
drops. Which type do you have? I found my previous reply and copy/pasted
it below so we have the full thread again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan



On behalf of GoldLenny

What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24166 From: Kate Conrow Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips
That's what I used. I got them at Petco. They seem to be pretty reliable. I think the Nitrate and Nitrite squares were a little yellow at first, but went bright white and very light pink on mine.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Hmmmmm. I've never seen API dip strips. Maybe it's something they only
sell across the pond. Here's their main website page on test kits and ALL
of them are the test tube and drops type.
http://www.aquariumpharm.com/en_us/productCategory.asp?categoryname=TestKits
. I did a Google for Aquatic Pharmaceutical and there does not seem to be a
company under that name so I'm guessing the API is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,
Inc., so my next question would be... are those test strips current and not
out of date? Could this be a product that API sold years ago and somehow
your LFS or pet store still had them on the shelf? If so, they may not be
reliable any longer. Check for an expiration date on the package or go to
the link above and there is a Contact Us page on API's main web site where
you can ask them for more info and they reply promptly every time I've
contacted them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

They are API Strips.
Susan

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Is it API or just AP? I know about API, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.,
http://www.aquariumpharm.com but I know there is an AP (Aquatic Products) or
something like that also. The rest of the thread isn't in your reply so I'm
going from memory here but you seemed to imply they were test strips but the
only API test kit that I'm familiar with has test tubes and liquid reagent
drops. Which type do you have? I found my previous reply and copy/pasted
it below so we have the full thread again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan



On behalf of GoldLenny

What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24167 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
I like the Eco-Complete, it is already wet so it does not require the
time spent washing like with all the ohers.


--- ... Anyway, can anyone give me advice on what to get? ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24168 From: Kevin Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
ok i think i know the anser but i just want to make shure today i
bought a new girl beta fish she just a baby and i bought a 2 1/2 gallon
tank and some meds i want to put the 2 girls together so they can get
use to but is this ok ? evan know i am treating the sick fish with meds
the meds i am using are lifeguard all-in one tretment for petsmart?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24169 From: Beth Lucas Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
Why did you buy meds? Did you take home a sick fish? If she is presenting no
symptoms than you can wipe out her immune system by treating her when
nothing is wrong.

I love bettas, and I have five together in a 10 gallon tank. I hear they
do better in groups of at least five, but you can try your two together.
Good luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:59 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ok question about sick/healthy fish?



ok i think i know the anser but i just want to make shure today i
bought a new girl beta fish she just a baby and i bought a 2 1/2 gallon
tank and some meds i want to put the 2 girls together so they can get
use to but is this ok ? evan know i am treating the sick fish with meds
the meds i am using are lifeguard all-in one tretment for petsmart?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24170 From: Kevin Date: 9/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
sorry the wasent veary clear my other gil who is not new was sick and
i went out to get meds for here and ended up comeing home with a new
tank and 3rd fish
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> Why did you buy meds? Did you take home a sick fish? If she is
presenting no
> symptoms than you can wipe out her immune system by treating her
when
> nothing is wrong.
>
> I love bettas, and I have five together in a 10 gallon tank. I
hear they
> do better in groups of at least five, but you can try your two
together.
> Good luck!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Kevin
> Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:59 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ok question about sick/healthy fish?
>
>
>
> ok i think i know the anser but i just want to make shure today i
> bought a new girl beta fish she just a baby and i bought a 2 1/2
gallon
> tank and some meds i want to put the 2 girls together so they can
get
> use to but is this ok ? evan know i am treating the sick fish with
meds
> the meds i am using are lifeguard all-in one tretment for petsmart?
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24171 From: dmctjc Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok question about sick/healthy fish?
From what I've read and from experience with my own tanks, putting 2
females together is usually a bad idea. One of the females will become
the 'boss' and will torment the other unmercifully. 5 is the number
I've read that works and it worked in my tank, too. I can identify
1 'boss', but, she has 4 females to torment and I see her go after all
of them equally. Having a lot of plants in the tank helps, too. The
tank that my females is in is a 10 gal.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <kev48us@...> wrote:
>
> ok i think i know the anser but i just want to make shure today i
> bought a new girl beta fish she just a baby and i bought a 2 1/2
gallon
> tank and some meds i want to put the 2 girls together so they can get
> use to but is this ok ? evan know i am treating the sick fish with
meds
> the meds i am using are lifeguard all-in one tretment for petsmart?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24172 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: dumb question about test strips/ sick fish
I just tried them against tap water…according to the strips, the tap has
more nitrate than the tank, and the nitrite is the same in the tank and in
the tap. So…I’m guessing that the strips just don’t go as white as the print
on the label of the test kit. The date says they don’t expire until 2008.
So, per that guess, there has not been any water trouble since I bought the
strips. I did not test at first, as I am doing a heavily planted tank, and I
read that it should not have the same trouble with cycling that unplanted
tanks do, and in a prior planted tank, I did not have any trouble with water
quality in starting up. (for those that are worried about the # of fish, I
plan on starting a second tank/pond of equivalent size next spring, so by
the time they are bigger, they will have more room. My understanding is
goldfish do not grow as quickly in Ireland due to the year ‘round cool
weather.)

I am doing partial (5-10%) water changes with Tapsafe every day.

Is there anything else to do with a fish with fuzz on it’s tail? I treated
the tank, but he still has the fuzzy spot and I am wondering if I should
isolate him? I got a 15 gal. Rubbermaid container that I could put him in
for a little while if necessary. He’s about 3” plus tail. I have thought
about putting him in there and doing the salt thing (I read somewhere 1 tbsp
per gallon – is that right?), but I am afraid of stressing him too much, and
the container being a bit small.



Susan



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 2:39 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips



That's what I used. I got them at Petco. They seem to be pretty reliable. I
think the Nitrate and Nitrite squares were a little yellow at first, but
went bright white and very light pink on mine.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <HYPERLINK
"mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com"GoldLenny@gmail.-com> wrote: Hmmmmm. I've
never seen API dip strips. Maybe it's something they only
sell across the pond. Here's their main website page on test kits and ALL
of them are the test tube and drops type.
HYPERLINK
"http://www.aquariumpharm.com/en_us/productCategory.asp?categoryname=TestKit
s"http://www.aquarium-pharm.com/-en_us/productCat-egory.asp?-categoryname=-T
estKits
. I did a Google for Aquatic Pharmaceutical and there does not seem to be a
company under that name so I'm guessing the API is Aquarium Pharmaceuticals,
Inc., so my next question would be... are those test strips current and not
out of date? Could this be a product that API sold years ago and somehow
your LFS or pet store still had them on the shelf? If so, they may not be
reliable any longer. Check for an expiration date on the package or go to
the link above and there is a Contact Us page on API's main web site where
you can ask them for more info and they reply promptly every time I've
contacted them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - HYPERLINK
"http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com"http://GoldLenny.-blogspot.-com

-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 12:14 PM
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

They are API Strips.
Susan

-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 6:00 PM
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Is it API or just AP? I know about API, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Inc.,
HYPERLINK "http://www.aquariumpharm.com"http://www.aquarium-pharm.com but I
know there is an AP (Aquatic Products) or
something like that also. The rest of the thread isn't in your reply so I'm
going from memory here but you seemed to imply they were test strips but the
only API test kit that I'm familiar with has test tubes and liquid reagent
drops. Which type do you have? I found my previous reply and copy/pasted
it below so we have the full thread again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - HYPERLINK
"http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com"http://GoldLenny.-blogspot.-com

-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 11:20 AM
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

API aquatic pharmaceuticals

I'm in Ireland, so you may not be familiar with them.
Susan

On behalf of GoldLenny

What brand test kit?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - HYPERLINK
"http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com"http://GoldLenny.-blogspot.-com


-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com] On
Behalf Of Susan Hake
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2007 8:00 AM
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com
Subject: [AquaticLife] dumb question about test strips

Hi,

This is probably a dumb question, but bear with me.

The strips are slightly coloured on the nitrite and nitrite strips. If the
water is good is it supposed to CHANGE white, or just stay the same? Mine
are staying the same, which slightly less than one notch above 0 on both,
and I am wondering if they ever change, or if I am trying to get something
to happen which will never happen.

Thank you,

Susan

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.32/1032 - Release Date: 9/26/2007
8:20 PM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007
5:00 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007
5:00 PM



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24173 From: Vinni Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: DIY Stand Plans
Hi All

I recently moved into a new home and want to build a stand for my 30
gallon aquarium. most of the ones out there i have seen I can afford
the good ones and the cheap are just that. Anyone have access to some
decent plans they can share ?

Thanks

Vinni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24174 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: DIY Stand Plans
How good are you at woodworking? I have the outline and pictures for the
"frame" to my DIY 65G stand. Once the frame is built, you can "decorate" it
however you like with various "nice" woods/veneers. Go to my blog and then
on the right, you will see the link for DIY 65G Tank Stand (that I built for
$20.00 of materials) but I never did "finish" it since Katrina hit shortly
after I built the frame. Hopefully, this winter, I'll have time to finish
the stand with a cherry wood veneer and trim.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 8:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] DIY Stand Plans

Hi All

I recently moved into a new home and want to build a stand for my 30 gallon
aquarium. most of the ones out there i have seen I can afford the good ones
and the cheap are just that. Anyone have access to some decent plans they
can share ?

Thanks

Vinni


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1034 - Release Date: 9/27/2007
5:00 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24175 From: poul wehner Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Re: DIY Stand Plans
google " DIY aquarium stand" -more than a few good sites w/ plans


Vinni wrote:
>
> Hi All
>
> I recently moved into a new home and want to build a stand for my 30
> gallon aquarium. most of the ones out there i have seen I can afford
> the good ones and the cheap are just that. Anyone have access to some
> decent plans they can share ?
>
> Thanks
>
> Vinni
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24176 From: Jim Date: 9/28/2007
Subject: Cremecicle Mollys
Hi,

I have a 20 gallon tank with three Giant Danios. A couple of days
ago, I purchased two Cremecicle Mollys as companions for the Giant
Danios. The Cremecicle Mollys don't seem to be getting along that
well with the Giant Danios. They're mostly hovering around a rock in
the tank and doing their own thing. When it comes to feeding time,
the Giant Danios dominate and take all of the food before the
Cremecicle Mollys can get to it. I don't think they've eaten anything
since I put them in the tank about two days ago, so I'm starting to
get a little worried. Are Cremecicle Mollys bad tank mates for Giant
Danios? I bought them because I saw them in a tank at my local pet
store with other Danios. They all seemed to get along fine in the
tank in the store.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24177 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Cremecicle Mollys
Remember that what you see in a store tank does not necessarily work in the
real world. When fish are juveniles, they do not usually show their true
habits. As they mature, then their true habits and instincts come out. I
do not believe that mollies were one of the compatible species in the
Mongabay's profile information that I gave you a while back but maybe they
were.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2007 11:07 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cremecicle Mollys

Hi,

I have a 20 gallon tank with three Giant Danios. A couple of days ago, I
purchased two Cremecicle Mollys as companions for the Giant Danios. The
Cremecicle Mollys don't seem to be getting along that well with the Giant
Danios. They're mostly hovering around a rock in the tank and doing their
own thing. When it comes to feeding time, the Giant Danios dominate and take
all of the food before the Cremecicle Mollys can get to it. I don't think
they've eaten anything since I put them in the tank about two days ago, so
I'm starting to get a little worried. Are Cremecicle Mollys bad tank mates
for Giant Danios? I bought them because I saw them in a tank at my local pet
store with other Danios. They all seemed to get along fine in the tank in
the store.

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007
3:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24178 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: How do I light this pentagon tank?
I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24179 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
what is the wattage on the lights. you want at least 1.5 watts per gallon
but with a taller tank like yours you want more.


In a message dated 9/29/2007 8:43:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
canineclara@... writes:




I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24180 From: jett07002 Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Cremecicle Mollys
Hi Jim.
>>>>>>>>Don't go by what you see in a store. Especially when a lot of
stores don't have that much tank space for all the fish they want to
stock. You have probably noticed that, usually, all the tanks are
FULL of fish that you may assume are "getting along well with each
other"....but think about it. Do they really have any choice in being
there? Do your homework before you buy fish. Either a good
reference book or on line..like Lenny suggested. Without even
thinking about it, I can tell you the danios are way too fast for the
mollies and they practically NEVER stop moving.

joet


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" <rjames1973@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a 20 gallon tank with three Giant Danios. A couple of days
> ago, I purchased two Cremecicle Mollys as companions for the Giant
> Danios. The Cremecicle Mollys don't seem to be getting along that
> well with the Giant Danios. They're mostly hovering around a rock in
> the tank and doing their own thing. When it comes to feeding time,
> the Giant Danios dominate and take all of the food before the
> Cremecicle Mollys can get to it. I don't think they've eaten anything
> since I put them in the tank about two days ago, so I'm starting to
> get a little worried. Are Cremecicle Mollys bad tank mates for Giant
> Danios? I bought them because I saw them in a tank at my local pet
> store with other Danios. They all seemed to get along fine in the
> tank in the store.
>
> - Jim
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24181 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Where on the bulbs is the wattage? I don't have the original packaging.

joesbirds@... wrote: what is the wattage on the lights. you want at least 1.5 watts per gallon
but with a taller tank like yours you want more.


In a message dated 9/29/2007 8:43:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
canineclara@... writes:

I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


---------------------------------
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings, and more!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24182 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
It should show it on the bulb printed somewhere. Or you could just look up
the bulbs on a site like drs foster and smith


In a message dated 9/29/2007 12:04:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
canineclara@... writes:




Where on the bulbs is the wattage? I don't have the original packaging.

_joesbirds@..._ (mailto:joesbirds@...) wrote: what is the wattage
on the lights. you want at least 1.5 watts per gallon
but with a taller tank like yours you want more.

In a message dated 9/29/2007 8:43:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_canineclara@caninecla_ (mailto:canineclara@...) writes:

I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?

******************************************<WBR>*********<WBR>_http://www.aol.h
tt_ (http://www.aol.com/)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

---------------------------------
Catch up on fall's hot new shows on Yahoo! TV. Watch previews, get listings,
and more!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24183 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
How tall is the tank? That is going to be the deciding factor as to what
kind of proper lighting you will need for optimal plant growth. If it's too
deep, regular fluorescent bulbs won't reach the bottom level plants no
matter how many watts/gallon you have. You might have to go with Power
Compacts or Halogen or Metal Halide which have more of a direct "piercing"
light rather than the soft "fluffy" light from fluorescent lights. You
should definitely consider going with ONLY low light plants on the bottom
and limit the thickness of any upper level plants or floating plants (in
fact, you may not want floating plants at all in a deep tank since they will
block out even more light.

Here's a page of Very Easy and Easy plants which generally mean they are low
light plants also but you'll have to read the profile summary on each to be
sure. http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
and http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

As far as your filtration, you could probably handle the upgraded filtration
but the plants will help with waste removal also so it really depends on how
well the current filter moves the water around.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 2:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] How do I light this pentagon tank?

It should show it on the bulb printed somewhere. Or you could just look up
the bulbs on a site like drs foster and smith


In a message dated 9/29/2007 12:04:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
canineclara@... <mailto:canineclara%40yahoo.com> writes:

Where on the bulbs is the wattage? I don't have the original packaging.

_joesbirds@... <mailto:_joesbirds%40aol.joe> _ (mailto:joesbirds@...
<mailto:joesbirds%40aol.com> ) wrote: what is the wattage
on the lights. you want at least 1.5 watts per gallon
but with a taller tank like yours you want more.

In a message dated 9/29/2007 8:43:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_canineclara@caninecla_ (mailto:canineclara@...
<mailto:canineclara%40yahoo.com> ) writes:

I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007
3:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24184 From: Vinni Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Very good website on plant & lighting info

http://www.thekrib.com/

Good Luck !
Vinni

-------Original Message-------

From: Lisa Rambo
Date: 9/29/2007 10:41:26 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How do I light this pentagon tank?

I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24185 From: Vinni Date: 9/29/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have seen some planted aquarium and I am wondering what do they
use? Some looks like plain soil. I bought a bag of tiny pebbles but it
was labeled aquarium soil. It is not the same as the ones I see in
planted tanks. I asked one sales person in a pet store that made the
planted aquarium and told me that he used (I think it was red coral)
and then planting soil on top of it and then laterite or is it
laterite first. Anyway, can anyone give me advice on what to get?
Thanks in advance.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I used Eco-Complete was a litlle pricey but awesome stuff. There are a
few different kinds out now depending on your setup. I really liked
the black color too. Plants just loved the stuff. Comes in 20lb bags .
I even think petsmart carrys the line of it now.

Vinni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24186 From: jules27au Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Amonia
Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish
lives lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground
filter stop the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24187 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good
water without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them
into shock which can be fatal.

How did things get so bad? What is the highest recent ammonia level? What
size tank and what types and how many of each species?

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? How long has the tank been set
up? Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria?

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have?

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia


Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24188 From: Julie Roughley Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Hi Lenny,

See the answers in below..

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? Melbourne Tap Water, PH is 6.8, nitrite is 0 & Ammonia level is 0.

Water is boiled then cooled down over night before adding to the tank, which currently sits at 24 degrees -

What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good
water without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them
into shock which can be fatal.


The only tests I do in my tank are PH (6.4, Nitrite 0 & Ammonia, which is currently at level 8, but I don't know the expiry date of the test.

How did things get so bad? The tank recently had brown water

What is the highest recent ammonia level? 8

What size tank and what types and how many of each species? Tank is a 60 litre hexagonal design, 6 neons, 2 sharks, 2 silver dollars, 2 congo tetras, 2 rummy noses & tiger tetra



What happened that caused the ammonia spike? Not Sure

How long has the tank been set up? Current set up has been like this for about 2.5 years & we were able to breed guppies (we went o/s & left the tank in care of a friend & when we came back it was green)

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria? No, but it will be interesting reading!

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have? Internal Filter, 8 watts 600L per hour

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia


Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







---------------------------------
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24189 From: Susan Hake Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Question about substrate
Whatever you use, you need to be sure that it has not been chemically
treated. (generally if you buy the cheap stuff, it is not chemically
treated.)

I have bought some aquatic compost. I have read that you can just buy
regular compost, and test it by putting it in some water. If you squeeze it
in your hand and it is a little spongy, but it sinks, it is good.

Some mix theirs with crushed oyster shell, I’m not sure why, then put some
gravel lightly on top. Put a dish or something down to pour the water on top
of so that you do not throw all the dirt up when you add the water.

HTH

Susan



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 11:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question about substrate



--- In HYPERLINK
"mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com"AquaticLife@-yahoogroups.-com, "Rei -
Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@.-..> wrote:
>
> I have seen some planted aquarium and I am wondering what do they
use? Some looks like plain soil. I bought a bag of tiny pebbles but it
was labeled aquarium soil. It is not the same as the ones I see in
planted tanks. I asked one sales person in a pet store that made the
planted aquarium and told me that he used (I think it was red coral)
and then planting soil on top of it and then laterite or is it
laterite first. Anyway, can anyone give me advice on what to get?
Thanks in advance.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
I used Eco-Complete was a litlle pricey but awesome stuff. There are a
few different kinds out now depending on your setup. I really liked
the black color too. Plants just loved the stuff. Comes in 20lb bags .
I even think petsmart carrys the line of it now.

Vinni




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24190 From: J & J Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Hi all, new to the group and I really could someone else's opinion.

I just bought and set up a new 55 gal freshwater tank. Let the
filter run for 2 days with some old filter medium from my other 10
gal tank to help seed it with the "good" bacteria.

Last night I bought a bunch of new plants for the tank and brought
them home. I also purchased a new power strip because the one I had
laying around the house wasn't working. Went home, plugged the
heater in, mixed laterite with my gravel, and then set about planting
the tank.

This morning I woke up and an the tank was WAY too hot, around 88
degrees, so I turned the heater down and went to work. Or so I
thought... (The heater came with the tank and a whole bunch of other
gear, bought it used on Craigslist and WOW it was a great deal, all
top of the line stuff.)

I came home from work 8 hours later to discover that I had turned the
heat UP (geeze!!) because I am a retard and didn't look closely at
the heater to accurately assess how to operate it. Needless to say,
my tank was SO hot that the thermometer on the side of it was
completely black... so must have been well over 90/95 degrees as that
is the top "box" on the strip. The tank and water were warm, very
very warm... bathwater warm. YIKES!

So I turned the heater all the way down to low, turned off the light,
and opened the hood so the water could cool down slowly. Now it
appears that my tank is back in the 90 degree box. (Yes, I am putting
my real thermometer in right now to get an accurate reading!)

What should I do now? Where should I keep the temp on the tank? I was
going for 82 since that has worked really well in my 10 gal, but any
suggestions? I'm def. new to highly planted tanks, I only have a
couple of apogenons in my other one. Also, do you think that the
crazy temperature flux stressed my plants too much? Anything I should
do for them at this point to ease their suffering besides letting the
tank cool off and trying to stabilize the temp?

Thanks for your help, sorry the post is so long!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24191 From: Vinni Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Does this deal sound too good ?
Advertised in one of our local papers , Im gonna go look at em today

Aquariums with stands 40 gal long & 30 gallon breeder, 29 gallon, 20 gallon
high and 15 gallon $125/each

Vinni

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24192 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
82 seems a bit high to me, but if that is what you want, let the tank
cool down to about 80, then turn up the thermostat on the heater just
until the indicator light comes on. This should bring your temperature
to just above 80. Then, just nudge the control to bring on the indicator
light until you reach your desired 82. It would be best to check the
temperature several times during the day and adjust just once a day
until you reach the desired temperature.

Just adding old filter material to your filter does not cycle your tank.
You need to provide the bacteria contained in the old medium with some
ammonia to process. If you do not, the bacteria will either hibernate or
die, and it will take some time, in any case, to get a fully functional
cycle. The addition of the old media will help reduce the length of time
it takes to establish the cycle, however.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of J & J
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:50 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New planted tank temperature issues... help!

Hi all, new to the group and I really could someone else's opinion.

I just bought and set up a new 55 gal freshwater tank. Let the
filter run for 2 days with some old filter medium from my other 10
gal tank to help seed it with the "good" bacteria.

Last night I bought a bunch of new plants for the tank and brought
them home. I also purchased a new power strip because the one I had
laying around the house wasn't working. Went home, plugged the
heater in, mixed laterite with my gravel, and then set about planting
the tank.

This morning I woke up and an the tank was WAY too hot, around 88
degrees, so I turned the heater down and went to work. Or so I
thought... (The heater came with the tank and a whole bunch of other
gear, bought it used on Craigslist and WOW it was a great deal, all
top of the line stuff.)

I came home from work 8 hours later to discover that I had turned the
heat UP (geeze!!) because I am a retard and didn't look closely at
the heater to accurately assess how to operate it. Needless to say,
my tank was SO hot that the thermometer on the side of it was
completely black... so must have been well over 90/95 degrees as that
is the top "box" on the strip. The tank and water were warm, very
very warm... bathwater warm. YIKES!

So I turned the heater all the way down to low, turned off the light,
and opened the hood so the water could cool down slowly. Now it
appears that my tank is back in the 90 degree box. (Yes, I am putting
my real thermometer in right now to get an accurate reading!)

What should I do now? Where should I keep the temp on the tank? I was
going for 82 since that has worked really well in my 10 gal, but any
suggestions? I'm def. new to highly planted tanks, I only have a
couple of apogenons in my other one. Also, do you think that the
crazy temperature flux stressed my plants too much? Anything I should
do for them at this point to ease their suffering besides letting the
tank cool off and trying to stabilize the temp?

Thanks for your help, sorry the post is so long!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24193 From: Steve Szabo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
If that is an each price, too expensive for used equipment. If it is for
the whole lot, check it out.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does this deal sound too good ?

Advertised in one of our local papers , Im gonna go look at em today



Aquariums with stands 40 gal long & 30 gallon breeder, 29 gallon, 20
gallon
high and 15 gallon $125/each



Vinni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24194 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
In my area that would be decent for the 40, and average for the 30 or 29, IF they included decent filters and NICE wooden stands. The 20 and 15...no way...

Carmen


----- Original Message -----
From: Vinni
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:52 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does this deal sound too good ?


Advertised in one of our local papers , Im gonna go look at em today

Aquariums with stands 40 gal long & 30 gallon breeder, 29 gallon, 20 gallon
high and 15 gallon $125/each

Vinni

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24195 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Hello Jules, Fortunately, with your tap water having a pH of 6.8,
you should not be in a position to have your tank water spike into
the alkaline zone where the ammonia would be much more harmful
(fatal) if not yet mostly diminished by PWC's by that time, although
you still want to bring up your pH slowly to prevent pH shock. I'm
not at all sure what you mean with your ammonia reading at "level 8,"
unless you're saying its at 8 ppm which would be extremely high and
borderline fatal even at your low pH. About the only thing saving
all you fish at this time is that the ammonia has been converted to
much less harmful ammonium.

Before doing the necessary frequent PWC's to remove this ammonia, as
has been already outlined, add (dissolved) an amount of salt to your
tank equal to 1/2 (.50) teaspoon per Litre. This is still well below
the amount which would be harmful to any plants you might have (I
haven't seen where you said you had any), yet should be enough to
prevent brown blood condition in your fish as the pH rises.
Fortunately again that your pH should not be entering the alkaline
range, or an increased amount of salt (.75 tsp per Litre) would be
needed, which is just beyond what most aquarium plants will
tolerate.

If doing 25% water changes, as was recommended, this salt addition
will be depleted to a little less than the nominal 3 tsp per 5
gallons (18.925 Litres) that some aquarists prefer to keep in their
tanks (even if not really needed), after seven (7) such water
changes; no additional salt need be added. While, as I said, salt is
not really needed in the freshwater tank, a trace of it at all times
will prevent the possibility of fish getting brown blood from the
start if ammonia starts to build up in a tank.

At first glance, your "0" nitrite reading might seem to be a plus
(since its much more toxic than ammonia), but this just indicates
that your tank is not experiencing the needed nitrogen cycle; its
showing the ammonia is not being converted to nitrite (which in turn
would be converted to relatively harmless nitrate). An undergravel
filter will build up the needed Nitrosomas and Nitrobacters for
conversion of these toxic nitrogenous compounds, as a cycle, but
there are much better methods for this most of which require a build-
up of these populations in your filter(s). Undergravel filters have
their own inherent problems (some, such as possible anaerobic action,
causing noxious/toxic gases), which you don't need. You need to
establish your nitrogen cycle (in your filter), while at the same
time keep your water fish-safe with PWC's. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "jules27au" <jules27au@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...
>
> How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number
fish
> lives lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under
ground
> filter stop the problem happening again.
>
> The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.
>
> So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day
period.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jules
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24196 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Does this deal sound too good ?
Depends on how nice the stands are. I wouldn't pay more than $1.00 per
gallon for a used tank since you can often get new tanks for that price.
Why are they all the same price? I can't imagine a 15G tank and stand being
worth $125.00... or is it $125.00 for all?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 6:52 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does this deal sound too good ?

Advertised in one of our local papers , Im gonna go look at em today

Aquariums with stands 40 gal long & 30 gallon breeder, 29 gallon, 20 gallon
high and 15 gallon $125/each

Vinni


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24197 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: tank stand
I am getting a 55 gallon tank ASAP, and I don't want to spend a lot on
a stand. (I would build my own, but I am not good at building things
at all.) Are those metal frame stands any good? I wouldn't be worried
about a 10 or 20 gallon, but a full 55 is a lot of weight. Has anyone
ever heard of a metal stand collapsing? Am I worrying needlessly?
Thanks for your help. :)

Noah
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24198 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
If it's a wrought iron stand built for a 55G tank footprint (48" x 12"),
then it should be fine. It should have L-beam or I-beam construction for
the legs and top that the tank sits on and then there should cross (X)
members to make the stand solid so it can't go out of square from side to
side or front to back. See if it's welded or bolted together and make sure
the joints or bolted sections are solid and tight.

Just make sure the stand is on solid and level flooring and it does not rock
at all. Use solid shims (quarters work) under the legs if needed. You
could test it by filling it up outside first to make sure it's solid before
filling it up in your home.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank stand

I am getting a 55 gallon tank ASAP, and I don't want to spend a lot on a
stand. (I would build my own, but I am not good at building things at all.)
Are those metal frame stands any good? I wouldn't be worried about a 10 or
20 gallon, but a full 55 is a lot of weight. Has anyone ever heard of a
metal stand collapsing? Am I worrying needlessly?
Thanks for your help. :)

Noah


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24199 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: How do I light this pentagon tank?
Tank is 21" tall. I found a strip light in a catalog that is a quad with 4 50/50 tubes for a total of 96 watts. It's compact flourescent. Has a couple coooling fans. The other option is a quad with 4 6700K bulbs. It is 20" long wich is all that will fit on top of this shape.
Most of my plants are moderate light and have been doing o.k. with my little 15watt double strip.
What is your opinion on the quad?

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
How tall is the tank? That is going to be the deciding factor as to what
kind of proper lighting you will need for optimal plant growth. If it's too
deep, regular fluorescent bulbs won't reach the bottom level plants no
matter how many watts/gallon you have. You might have to go with Power
Compacts or Halogen or Metal Halide which have more of a direct "piercing"
light rather than the soft "fluffy" light from fluorescent lights. You
should definitely consider going with ONLY low light plants on the bottom
and limit the thickness of any upper level plants or floating plants (in
fact, you may not want floating plants at all in a deep tank since they will
block out even more light.

Here's a page of Very Easy and Easy plants which generally mean they are low
light plants also but you'll have to read the profile summary on each to be
sure. http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2
and http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

As far as your filtration, you could probably handle the upgraded filtration
but the plants will help with waste removal also so it really depends on how
well the current filter moves the water around.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joesbirds@...
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 2:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] How do I light this pentagon tank?

It should show it on the bulb printed somewhere. Or you could just look up
the bulbs on a site like drs foster and smith


In a message dated 9/29/2007 12:04:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
canineclara@... writes:

Where on the bulbs is the wattage? I don't have the original packaging.

_joesbirds@... _ (mailto:joesbirds@...
) wrote: what is the wattage
on the lights. you want at least 1.5 watts per gallon
but with a taller tank like yours you want more.

In a message dated 9/29/2007 8:43:16 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
_canineclara@caninecla_ (mailto:canineclara@...
) writes:

I just set up a 44 gal pentagon. It is fully planted and I currently
have a Coralife strip light with a T5 Colormax and a T56700K. I don't
know if that is going to be enough for the plants. There is a dark
area in the very back corner of the tank.
Any suggestions? I have a glass canopy on the tank.
Also, I am using an AquaClear filter that is for a 20-50 gal. Should I
go up to the 40-70gal?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.33/1036 - Release Date: 9/28/2007
3:40 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
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---------------------------------
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24200 From: iowakoi Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Dealing with wildlife associated with ponds- mink, herons, and more
Fall is the time of year that many predators are looking for an easy
meal. Dealing with them can stump even the experienced pond owner. This
article http://www.richdeer3.com/site/1566246/page/924686
<http://www.richdeer3.com/site/1566246/page/924686> gives great tips
on everything from aphids to mink. Wildlife Associated with Water
Gardens is just one of the many of our articles are written by my
personal friend Jamie Beyer. Jamie is a vital part of the Central Iowa
Water Garden Association, founder and past president. Jamie is one of
the Midwest's foremost experts on water gardening. In addition to his
frequent lectures and published articles his work can be found in "All
About Garden Pools and Fountains" which he co-authored with Veronica
Fowler. His work is also featured in the Summer issue of Pondkeeper.
He is a Master Gardener and has a Master degree is Fish and Wildlife
Biology. Jamie Beyer's consulting and installation firm Midwest
Waterscapes Boone, IA has installed over 500 water features since the
late 80's. You can email questions to BeyersBog@...
<mailto:BeyersBog@...> Please be sure to tell him Richdeer3 Pond
Supplies sent you.
If you need immediate help for a problem please call me at 641-750-3062
or Jamie at 515-433-0194.



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24201 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
One thing you need is a Nitrate test kit which is the end compound of the
nitrogen cycle. It's good that you have ammonia and nitrite since they are
far more dangerous to your fish but you should also know what your nitrate
levels are since that would further indicate when a PWC is needed. Most
fish can tolerate up to 40ppm without any problems but it's best to keep
them lower if possible.

If your tap water nitrate is 10ppm and then your tank gets up to 40ppm, when
you do a 25% PWC, it would lower them to around 32.5ppm. A 2nd 25% PWC would
lower it to around 26.5ppm. If your tap has 0ppm of nitrate, then a 25% PWC
would lower them by 25% (or down to 30ppm). A 2nd 25% PWC would lower it to
22.5ppm.

Do you have any idea what caused the brown water? That doesn't usually just
happen on it's own. Do you vacuum your gravel on a weekly basis or every
other week when you do your PWC's and filter maintenance/cleaning?

60 liters is around 16 gallons. You have 14 fish which means you are way
overstocked, based on the information you provided, which will cause a lot
of the problems you are having.

What are the "2 sharks" that you have? The most common types get far too
large for your tank. Depending on the types or if you are not sure, they
should probably be rehomed.

The silver dollars http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Metynnis_argenteus.html
grow to 8" so they get far too large for your tank also. They should be
rehomed since they need a very large tank (75G+) and they should be in a
school of 6 or more.

The congo tetras http://fish.mongabay.com/alestiidae.htm (2nd species on
page) grows to 5" which is too big for your tank also.

The rummy nose tetras only grow to around 2.5" so that's a little better for
your tank http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Hemigrammus_bleheri.html but they
should also be kept in a school.

I did not see a profile on the tiger tetra.

Maybe you should consider just keeping the neon school and then filling the
school of rummy nose tetras to 5-6 and rehome the rest of the fish. That
would put you at maximum stocking and would make your tank maintenance less
of a hassle to you and less dangerous to your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 3:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi Lenny,

See the answers in below..

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? Melbourne Tap Water, PH is 6.8,
nitrite is 0 & Ammonia level is 0.

Water is boiled then cooled down over night before adding to the tank, which
currently sits at 24 degrees -

What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good water
without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them into
shock which can be fatal.

The only tests I do in my tank are PH (6.4, Nitrite 0 & Ammonia, which is
currently at level 8, but I don't know the expiry date of the test.

How did things get so bad? The tank recently had brown water

What is the highest recent ammonia level? 8

What size tank and what types and how many of each species? Tank is a 60
litre hexagonal design, 6 neons, 2 sharks, 2 silver dollars, 2 congo tetras,
2 rummy noses & tiger tetra

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? Not Sure

How long has the tank been set up? Current set up has been like this for
about 2.5 years & we were able to breed guppies (we went o/s & left the tank
in care of a friend & when we came back it was green)

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria? No, but it
will be interesting reading!

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have? Internal Filter, 8 watts 600L per hour

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24202 From: barone922 Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
I am currently setting up a new 75 gallon tank. I initially purchased
a RENA canister filter but I have to return it. The stand I purchased
for the tank has a compartment that is only 14 1/2" tall. This
prevented me from setting up the filter today. The input and output
tubes were almost completely cinched closed from the lack of room in
the cabinet.

What other type of filter is recommended for a 75 gallon tank,
preferably one that can be stowed under the tank in the cabinet?

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24203 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
I think the Rena Filstar xP-1 is the shortest canister out there. Which
model did you have? I just measured the height of my xP-1 and it's 11" so
another 3 1/2" for the tubes should be enough not to crimp them.

Are you planning on having more than one filter system? It's usually best
on larger tanks to be able to move the water around properly and to have
redundancy in the event one of the filters fail for some reason. Can you
modify the cabinet by cutting away part of the shelf in the back that is too
low? That would be my first inclination.

What brand cabinet is this so others will be forewarned? Why would a stand
manufacturer make a stand for a 75G that won't hold the various available
canister filters?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of barone922
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank

I am currently setting up a new 75 gallon tank. I initially purchased a RENA
canister filter but I have to return it. The stand I purchased for the tank
has a compartment that is only 14 1/2" tall. This prevented me from setting
up the filter today. The input and output tubes were almost completely
cinched closed from the lack of room in the cabinet.

What other type of filter is recommended for a 75 gallon tank, preferably
one that can be stowed under the tank in the cabinet?

Donna



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24204 From: Eric Roberts Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Most fish stores sell wooden ones as well and you can also order online. I
doubt that a stand made for a 55gal tank would be unsafe…as long as it is
from a reputable company. Do your research before you buy.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] tank stand



I am getting a 55 gallon tank ASAP, and I don't want to spend a lot on
a stand. (I would build my own, but I am not good at building things
at all.) Are those metal frame stands any good? I wouldn't be worried
about a 10 or 20 gallon, but a full 55 is a lot of weight. Has anyone
ever heard of a metal stand collapsing? Am I worrying needlessly?
Thanks for your help. :)

Noah





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24205 From: Noah Burge Date: 9/30/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
Thanks, guys. I ordered a wooden stand. Wasn't as much as I feared. I
guess Petco is okay for inanimate objects, lol.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Roberts" <woad@...> wrote:
>
> Most fish stores sell wooden ones as well and you can also order
online. I
> doubt that a stand made for a 55gal tank would be unsafe…as long as
it is
> from a reputable company. Do your research before you buy.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] tank stand
>
>
>
> I am getting a 55 gallon tank ASAP, and I don't want to spend a lot
on
> a stand. (I would build my own, but I am not good at building
things
> at all.) Are those metal frame stands any good? I wouldn't be
worried
> about a 10 or 20 gallon, but a full 55 is a lot of weight. Has
anyone
> ever heard of a metal stand collapsing? Am I worrying needlessly?
> Thanks for your help. :)
>
> Noah
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24206 From: poul wehner Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: tank stand
I had a 55 gallon on a metal stand for 4 years and two moves with no
problem.
recommendations:
Make sure it's level.
Put some hardwood or metal plates between the legs and floor to disperse
the weight and help prevent the legs from gouging into the rug/floorboards.
Consider a styrofoam layer between the stand and aquarium. This will
help cut down on mechanical vibrations stressing the fish.

Noah Burge wrote:
>
> I am getting a 55 gallon tank ASAP, and I don't want to spend a lot on
> a stand. (I would build my own, but I am not good at building things
> at all.) Are those metal frame stands any good? I wouldn't be worried
> about a 10 or 20 gallon, but a full 55 is a lot of weight. Has anyone
> ever heard of a metal stand collapsing? Am I worrying needlessly?
> Thanks for your help. :)
>
> Noah
>
> __
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24207 From: Julie Roughley Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Hi,

Thanks for you help on this, I'm a more informed next time I head to the pet shop now..

How often do I clean my tank, the filter every week, full clean up, every three months.

You need a licence to get married & own a dog, but not to sell fish - amazing!

Would it be easier to empty the tank & start over again,?

Jules

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
One thing you need is a Nitrate test kit which is the end compound of the
nitrogen cycle. It's good that you have ammonia and nitrite since they are
far more dangerous to your fish but you should also know what your nitrate
levels are since that would further indicate when a PWC is needed. Most
fish can tolerate up to 40ppm without any problems but it's best to keep
them lower if possible.

If your tap water nitrate is 10ppm and then your tank gets up to 40ppm, when
you do a 25% PWC, it would lower them to around 32.5ppm. A 2nd 25% PWC would
lower it to around 26.5ppm. If your tap has 0ppm of nitrate, then a 25% PWC
would lower them by 25% (or down to 30ppm). A 2nd 25% PWC would lower it to
22.5ppm.

Do you have any idea what caused the brown water? That doesn't usually just
happen on it's own. Do you vacuum your gravel on a weekly basis or every
other week when you do your PWC's and filter maintenance/cleaning?

60 liters is around 16 gallons. You have 14 fish which means you are way
overstocked, based on the information you provided, which will cause a lot
of the problems you are having.

What are the "2 sharks" that you have? The most common types get far too
large for your tank. Depending on the types or if you are not sure, they
should probably be rehomed.

The silver dollars http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Metynnis_argenteus.html
grow to 8" so they get far too large for your tank also. They should be
rehomed since they need a very large tank (75G+) and they should be in a
school of 6 or more.

The congo tetras http://fish.mongabay.com/alestiidae.htm (2nd species on
page) grows to 5" which is too big for your tank also.

The rummy nose tetras only grow to around 2.5" so that's a little better for
your tank http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Hemigrammus_bleheri.html but they
should also be kept in a school.

I did not see a profile on the tiger tetra.

Maybe you should consider just keeping the neon school and then filling the
school of rummy nose tetras to 5-6 and rehome the rest of the fish. That
would put you at maximum stocking and would make your tank maintenance less
of a hassle to you and less dangerous to your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 3:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi Lenny,

See the answers in below..

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? Melbourne Tap Water, PH is 6.8,
nitrite is 0 & Ammonia level is 0.

Water is boiled then cooled down over night before adding to the tank, which
currently sits at 24 degrees -

What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good water
without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them into
shock which can be fatal.

The only tests I do in my tank are PH (6.4, Nitrite 0 & Ammonia, which is
currently at level 8, but I don't know the expiry date of the test.

How did things get so bad? The tank recently had brown water

What is the highest recent ammonia level? 8

What size tank and what types and how many of each species? Tank is a 60
litre hexagonal design, 6 neons, 2 sharks, 2 silver dollars, 2 congo tetras,
2 rummy noses & tiger tetra

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? Not Sure

How long has the tank been set up? Current set up has been like this for
about 2.5 years & we were able to breed guppies (we went o/s & left the tank
in care of a friend & when we came back it was green)

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria? No, but it
will be interesting reading!

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have? Internal Filter, 8 watts 600L per hour

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1039 - Release Date: 9/29/2007
9:46 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24208 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Amonia
Well, if you emptied and started over, you would have even more "cycling"
issues so you don't need to do that. I know someone else out here mentioned
to you about adding a little salt to the tank so that when you get your
nitrite spike in the coming days/weeks, the salt will protect the fish from
nitrite poisoning (brown blood disorder). Keep up with the daily testing
and doing 2-3 PWC's a day, if needed, to keep the ammonia and nitrites below
0.5ppm.

When you clean the filter every week, which is OK, you should be following
the instructions in my article on Filter Maintenance & Cleaning. Go to my
blog and on the right side, you will see the link to the article.

As far as "full clean up" of your tank every three months... that is
completely unnecessary and may be the cause of your current ammonia
problems, presuming you recently did a "full clean up". Other than doing
regular filter maintenance and 25% PWC's as needed (daily, twice a week,
once a week, every two weeks or once a month... depending on bioload and
ecosystem of the tank) and vacuuming the gravel with each PWC, there is
almost no reason to ever do a complete cleaning as this would likely kill
your good nitrifying bacteria and other good bacteria. The only time I
would ever do a complete cleaning is if the tank was infected or infested
with some kind of pathogen that I couldn't get rid of otherwise.

I don't think that fish store owners need to be the smartest folks but they
should at least know their limitations and tell people to come to forums
like this one for proper fish keeping information. There's nothing wrong
with Wal-Mart or the LFS selling the fish but people still need to do a
little homework on their own. It's not like buying a pet that is a land
animal. Fish keeping requires that the owners understand about setting up
the ecosystem of the aquarium so the fish will be able to breath and not
live in a polluted environment. You wouldn't have a land pet and keep it in
an air-tight cage full of it's own waste and expect it to live for weeks
between giving it fresh air or cleaning the cage... but that's what happens
if we don't know the basics of fish keeping. (As far as your reference to
needing a license to get married... I wish they'd make people take courses
and get licensed to have children. I don't care if they get married but
when they procreate and don't know how to be good parents, then the rest of
us have to pay for it!)

I hope you've read over the "A to Z of Fish Keeping" page on my blog which
will give you information and links to nearly everything you need to know
about the hobby. And please do not hesitate to ask any questions you may
have as most people in this group are more than welcome to help.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 5:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi,

Thanks for you help on this, I'm a more informed next time I head to the pet
shop now..

How often do I clean my tank, the filter every week, full clean up, every
three months.

You need a licence to get married & own a dog, but not to sell fish -
amazing!

Would it be easier to empty the tank & start over again,?

Jules

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
One thing you need is a Nitrate test kit which is the end compound of the
nitrogen cycle. It's good that you have ammonia and nitrite since they are
far more dangerous to your fish but you should also know what your nitrate
levels are since that would further indicate when a PWC is needed. Most fish
can tolerate up to 40ppm without any problems but it's best to keep them
lower if possible.

If your tap water nitrate is 10ppm and then your tank gets up to 40ppm, when
you do a 25% PWC, it would lower them to around 32.5ppm. A 2nd 25% PWC would
lower it to around 26.5ppm. If your tap has 0ppm of nitrate, then a 25% PWC
would lower them by 25% (or down to 30ppm). A 2nd 25% PWC would lower it to
22.5ppm.

Do you have any idea what caused the brown water? That doesn't usually just
happen on it's own. Do you vacuum your gravel on a weekly basis or every
other week when you do your PWC's and filter maintenance/cleaning?

60 liters is around 16 gallons. You have 14 fish which means you are way
overstocked, based on the information you provided, which will cause a lot
of the problems you are having.

What are the "2 sharks" that you have? The most common types get far too
large for your tank. Depending on the types or if you are not sure, they
should probably be rehomed.

The silver dollars http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Metynnis_argenteus.html
<http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Metynnis_argenteus.html>
grow to 8" so they get far too large for your tank also. They should be
rehomed since they need a very large tank (75G+) and they should be in a
school of 6 or more.

The congo tetras http://fish.mongabay.com/alestiidae.htm
<http://fish.mongabay.com/alestiidae.htm> (2nd species on
page) grows to 5" which is too big for your tank also.

The rummy nose tetras only grow to around 2.5" so that's a little better for
your tank http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Hemigrammus_bleheri.html
<http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Hemigrammus_bleheri.html> but they should
also be kept in a school.

I did not see a profile on the tiger tetra.

Maybe you should consider just keeping the neon school and then filling the
school of rummy nose tetras to 5-6 and rehome the rest of the fish. That
would put you at maximum stocking and would make your tank maintenance less
of a hassle to you and less dangerous to your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 3:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi Lenny,

See the answers in below..

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? Melbourne Tap Water, PH is 6.8,
nitrite is 0 & Ammonia level is 0.

Water is boiled then cooled down over night before adding to the tank, which
currently sits at 24 degrees -

What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good water
without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them into
shock which can be fatal.

The only tests I do in my tank are PH (6.4, Nitrite 0 & Ammonia, which is
currently at level 8, but I don't know the expiry date of the test.

How did things get so bad? The tank recently had brown water

What is the highest recent ammonia level? 8

What size tank and what types and how many of each species? Tank is a 60
litre hexagonal design, 6 neons, 2 sharks, 2 silver dollars, 2 congo tetras,
2 rummy noses & tiger tetra

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? Not Sure

How long has the tank been set up? Current set up has been like this for
about 2.5 years & we were able to breed guppies (we went o/s & left the tank
in care of a friend & when we came back it was green)

Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria? No, but it
will be interesting reading!

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have? Internal Filter, 8 watts 600L per hour

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia

Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24209 From: Kristen Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: New to group
Hi group, just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Kristen. I
have been keeping fish for around 15 years, although I am still a
beginner in many areas . I currently have a 75 gallon cichlid
aquarium I am looking to redo to a planted tank in the next month or
so. I have a Tetratec pf500 external filter, which works great for
keeping my water clear, but is incredibly noisy. I am thinking of
going with an Eheim canister filter, any advice or comments on them
would be greatly appreciated. I need a good filter, that is quiet!
(There are a couple others in the house that don't appreciate the
sound of a filter running as I do!) Also---is it absolutely
necessary to have a CO2 injector for a planted tank? I'm worried my
lack of experience might result in the death of my fish--too much
CO2, etc. Could my plants grow with proper lighting and added plant
minerals and liquid carbon alone? What kind of lighting is
necessary? I have to keep some kind of top on my aquarium because I
have two cats that like to jump on it, so hanging lights above the
tank or anything that can't sit on a cover will not work. I was
thinking of replacing my single bulb strip light with a dual one and
investing in higher quality bulbs for it. Thanks in advance for any
help you guys can give me. I live in rural Illinois, and there is
nowhere locally to go to get advice on planted tanks. Most of the
petshops around here sell a limited selection of live plants, but
thats it. I found a really great shop in Chicago with a huge
selection and beautifully designed planted tanks, unfortunately
Chicago isn't that close. I am gonna head up there to get plants
when I get my tank all set up with a new filter, lighting, and
substrate. Any ideas on substrate?? I currently have a mixture of
small rocks and river sand. Thanks again for any help/suggestions.
Sorry to bombard you all with so many questions.
Kristen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24210 From: 1 nice Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: fresh water sting rays
any body know anything about them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24211 From: Andreas Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
they are very sensitive to Nitrates and can grow to 3 feet.

They are hard to keep alive. but a lot of fun when you manage it

Andreas


On 10/1/07, 1 nice <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
> any body know anything about them
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24212 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Try _www.aquaticpredators.com_ (http://www.aquaticpredators.com) for info
on these


In a message dated 10/1/2007 4:16:28 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nice6669@... writes:




any body know anything about them






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24213 From: 1 nice Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
can you im me

Andreas <andreas1120@...> wrote:
they are very sensitive to Nitrates and can grow to 3 feet.

They are hard to keep alive. but a lot of fun when you manage it

Andreas

On 10/1/07, 1 nice <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
> any body know anything about them
>
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24214 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: New to group
Stick with easy and very easy plants to start off with and then upgrade from
there as your experience grows. These two links will give you a good list
of plants to start with. Be careful not to buy bog plants that many stores
sell as aquatic plants. Check them out first.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kristen
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to group

Hi group, just wanted to introduce myself, my name is Kristen. I have been
keeping fish for around 15 years, although I am still a beginner in many
areas . I currently have a 75 gallon cichlid aquarium I am looking to redo
to a planted tank in the next month or so. I have a Tetratec pf500 external
filter, which works great for keeping my water clear, but is incredibly
noisy. I am thinking of going with an Eheim canister filter, any advice or
comments on them would be greatly appreciated. I need a good filter, that is
quiet!
(There are a couple others in the house that don't appreciate the sound of a
filter running as I do!) Also---is it absolutely necessary to have a CO2
injector for a planted tank? I'm worried my lack of experience might result
in the death of my fish--too much CO2, etc. Could my plants grow with proper
lighting and added plant minerals and liquid carbon alone? What kind of
lighting is necessary? I have to keep some kind of top on my aquarium
because I have two cats that like to jump on it, so hanging lights above the
tank or anything that can't sit on a cover will not work. I was thinking of
replacing my single bulb strip light with a dual one and investing in higher
quality bulbs for it. Thanks in advance for any help you guys can give me. I
live in rural Illinois, and there is nowhere locally to go to get advice on
planted tanks. Most of the petshops around here sell a limited selection of
live plants, but thats it. I found a really great shop in Chicago with a
huge selection and beautifully designed planted tanks, unfortunately Chicago
isn't that close. I am gonna head up there to get plants when I get my tank
all set up with a new filter, lighting, and substrate. Any ideas on
substrate?? I currently have a mixture of small rocks and river sand. Thanks
again for any help/suggestions.
Sorry to bombard you all with so many questions.
Kristen


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24215 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Worms in my tank
I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how
do I make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It
did have koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly,
partial water changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as
the Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems
with hte tank, ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed
all of the gravel. Took all of the decorations out and replaced the
gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand (we are putting cichlids back in
the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very
small white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of
them? Are they harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How
long before we can put fish back in? We are using the same filter
cart and have a filter bag with gravel from the previous tank to
help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24216 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24217 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24218 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.><((((ş>.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸><((((ş> ¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸<ş((((><¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..<ş((((><ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24219 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24220 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24221 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
I have heard there are "Tea Cup" freshwater stingrays that do not get that
large.

Mike

In a message dated 10/1/2007 4:23:53 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
andreas1120@... writes:

Nitrates and can grow to 3 feet.

They are hard to keep alive. but a lot of fun when you manage it






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24222 From: Vinni Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
What kind of fish do you have ? some do like the mosq as snacks !

-------Original Message-------

From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Date: 10/1/2007 8:49:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24223 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Large Frontosas, it will be a cichlid tank. Will the worms ever go away?
Its creepy looking.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

What kind of fish do you have ? some do like the mosq as snacks !



-------Original Message-------



From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny

Date: 10/1/2007 8:49:20 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said

there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not

likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level

of salt.



According to their Mongabay profile,

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like

insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will

also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)

so the fish will probably like them.



Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't

tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.

You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"

but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.



Lenny Vasbinder

Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer

Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!

How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday

and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted

it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two

before putting the new fish in.



Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start

over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.



I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything

happened to them.



Jenn



-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny

Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...

possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting

around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water

line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of

the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather

stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die

off in our tanks due the water movement.



DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud

since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their

fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.



I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever

look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of

thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or

be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most

things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure

you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a

slightly higher salinity level.



Lenny Vasbinder

Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer

Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in

the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and

drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it

with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,

putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and

cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.



My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the

water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.



What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to

bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long

time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the

sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.



Jenn



-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny

Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the

glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel

before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before

but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like

sand very much so they are staying on the glass.



How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the

gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good

nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if

your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying

detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of

the nitrifying bacteria alive.



Lenny Vasbinder

Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com





-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On

Behalf Of ipartyforfun

Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank



I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I

make them go away? Are they harmful?



We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have

koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water

changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval

404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the

Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,

ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all

of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand

(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)



Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small

white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they

harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish

back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel

from the previous tank to help the bateria.



My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?



Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!



Jenn





No virus found in this outgoing message.

Checked by AVG Free Edition.

Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007

9:01 PM









Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.

·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>

PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-

<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.

We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.

Yahoo! Groups Links








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24224 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Sorry Lenny,
I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may be off.

Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and a pleco.
No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then half
gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays. Crystal
clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick, water good.

Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to another
aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in bucket with
tank water.
Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel similar to the
Emperor. Everything looked normal.
Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and soft
scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand. Filled
tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of cloudiness
from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put same bio
wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a clean filter
bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria. Added
salt.

Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but looked
VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.

Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on internet. I
can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY tiny wiggly
worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more and I
see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't look like
it.

I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next day...but not
now. The worms creep me out.

Now what do I do?

Hope this is better for you to understand.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24225 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Sorry Lenny,
I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may be off.

Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and a pleco.
No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then half
gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays. Crystal
clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick, water good.

Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to another
aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in bucket with
tank water.
Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel similar to the
Emperor. Everything looked normal.
Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and soft
scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand. Filled
tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of cloudiness
from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put same bio
wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a clean filter
bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria. Added
salt.

Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but looked
VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.

Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on internet. I
can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY tiny wiggly
worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more and I
see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't look like
it.

I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next day...but not
now. The worms creep me out.

Now what do I do?

Hope this is better for you to understand.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24226 From: Ro Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
Some times you will find a freshwater stingray for sale in your local
fish store labeled as "teacup stingray"... This used to be just the term
used by exporters referring to the size of the stingray and not the
actual name. The ones you find under "teacup ray" are all either
Potamotrygon motoro or P. hystrix that get to about 16" to 18"
disc size, these are the smallest of the genus. Some times there are P.
leopoldi but is unlikely since they are much more expensive.

Ro

www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> I have heard there are "Tea Cup" freshwater stingrays that do not get
that
> large.
>
> Mike



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24227 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
OK. I have a better picture now.

I would bet that they are simply bug larvae from a laying that took place on
the bio-wheels in the bucket. That was stagnant water... right? Now that
they are in moving water, they won't live much longer due to the front's and
the circulation.

Was the sand packaged wet? I know some CaribSea products are and there's
always a chance of that carrying something but still not something that
would likely harm your fish.

Just a little FYI, I hope you know that running your filters on an empty (no
fish) tank for 1-2 days does nothing for "cycling" and likely killed off
your good nitrifying bacteria so you need to do daily testing for
ammonia/nitrite over the next several weeks and do PWC's as needed. I hope
some of the gravel kept some of the bacteria alive if there was some
decaying detritus in the gravel that would have kept feeding them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Sorry Lenny,
I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may be off.

Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and a pleco.
No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then half
gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays. Crystal
clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick, water good.

Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to another
aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in bucket with
tank water.
Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel similar to the
Emperor. Everything looked normal.
Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and soft
scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand. Filled
tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of cloudiness
from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put same bio
wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a clean filter
bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria. Added
salt.

Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but looked
VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.

Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on internet. I
can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY tiny wiggly
worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more and I
see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't look like
it.

I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next day...but not
now. The worms creep me out.

Now what do I do?

Hope this is better for you to understand.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24228 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Do you think its ok to put the Frontosa in the tank tomorrow?
The filters were only in the water for maybe an hour or less, so not like
they wee sitting there for a day or so.

I assumed (you know what that does) that it would be okay to run them with
no fish for a day or so with the old cartridges and the gravel in the filter
bag.

If I can, I would like to move the Fronts tomorrow if you think it would be
okay with the worms. They (the Fronts) are large and not cheap, so I would
hate for anything to attach itself onto them and kill them.

No, the sand was not packaged wet. It was completely dry.
We have purchased the CaribSea Cichlid sand before and it has some type of
liquid in it but the stuff we just bought (yesterday) was form a good store
and was dry.

You are the only one who has responded to this worms thing and I trust your
knowledge completely, I have read and asked you questions before so if you
think the Fronts would be fine putting them in tomorrow I bet they would
like their new home.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

OK. I have a better picture now.

I would bet that they are simply bug larvae from a laying that took place on
the bio-wheels in the bucket. That was stagnant water... right? Now that
they are in moving water, they won't live much longer due to the front's and
the circulation.

Was the sand packaged wet? I know some CaribSea products are and there's
always a chance of that carrying something but still not something that
would likely harm your fish.

Just a little FYI, I hope you know that running your filters on an empty (no
fish) tank for 1-2 days does nothing for "cycling" and likely killed off
your good nitrifying bacteria so you need to do daily testing for
ammonia/nitrite over the next several weeks and do PWC's as needed. I hope
some of the gravel kept some of the bacteria alive if there was some
decaying detritus in the gravel that would have kept feeding them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Sorry Lenny,
I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may be off.

Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and a pleco.
No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then half
gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays. Crystal
clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick, water good.

Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to another
aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in bucket with
tank water.
Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel similar to the
Emperor. Everything looked normal.
Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and soft
scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand. Filled
tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of cloudiness
from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put same bio
wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a clean filter
bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria. Added
salt.

Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but looked
VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.

Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on internet. I
can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY tiny wiggly
worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more and I
see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't look like
it.

I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next day...but not
now. The worms creep me out.

Now what do I do?

Hope this is better for you to understand.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date: 9/30/2007
9:01 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24229 From: Vinni Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: CO2 Bulkead Fittings
Finally found and wanted to share the link to where you can get the fittings
to
put into the cap of the 2 litre pop bottles.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXG849&P=M
These things are awesome and make changing yeast and old caps a snap
I just ordered 4 more packs for mine. you do not to use glue with these.
they go into the hole and the nut gets
screwed onto the backside of the cap and seals it

Vinni

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24230 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
I thought u had the front's in there already but since they aren't in there,
you could dose the tank with a heavier dose of salt (start with 1 teaspoon
per gallon and add another teaspoon per gallon at 12 hour intervals until
you reach 3 teaspoons per gallon total... 24 hours total time). Of course,
this dosage would not normally kill the nitrifying bacteria but running the
tank for another day with no ammonia could... if they've survived thus far.
I would be more worried about the "cycling with fish" being harmful to your
front's over the larvae. Can't you do a fishless cycle with plain ammonia?
At least dose the tank once to see if your nitrifying bacteria survived.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 11:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Do you think its ok to put the Frontosa in the tank tomorrow?
The filters were only in the water for maybe an hour or less, so not like
they wee sitting there for a day or so.

I assumed (you know what that does) that it would be okay to run them with
no fish for a day or so with the old cartridges and the gravel in the filter
bag.

If I can, I would like to move the Fronts tomorrow if you think it would be
okay with the worms. They (the Fronts) are large and not cheap, so I would
hate for anything to attach itself onto them and kill them.

No, the sand was not packaged wet. It was completely dry.
We have purchased the CaribSea Cichlid sand before and it has some type of
liquid in it but the stuff we just bought (yesterday) was form a good store
and was dry.

You are the only one who has responded to this worms thing and I trust your
knowledge completely, I have read and asked you questions before so if you
think the Fronts would be fine putting them in tomorrow I bet they would
like their new home.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

OK. I have a better picture now.

I would bet that they are simply bug larvae from a laying that took place on
the bio-wheels in the bucket. That was stagnant water... right? Now that
they are in moving water, they won't live much longer due to the front's and
the circulation.

Was the sand packaged wet? I know some CaribSea products are and there's
always a chance of that carrying something but still not something that
would likely harm your fish.

Just a little FYI, I hope you know that running your filters on an empty (no
fish) tank for 1-2 days does nothing for "cycling" and likely killed off
your good nitrifying bacteria so you need to do daily testing for
ammonia/nitrite over the next several weeks and do PWC's as needed. I hope
some of the gravel kept some of the bacteria alive if there was some
decaying detritus in the gravel that would have kept feeding them.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Sorry Lenny,
I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may be off.

Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and a pleco.
No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then half
gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays. Crystal
clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick, water good.

Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to another
aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in bucket with
tank water.
Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel similar to the
Emperor. Everything looked normal.
Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and soft
scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand. Filled
tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of cloudiness
from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put same bio
wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a clean filter
bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria. Added
salt.

Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but looked
VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.

Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on internet. I
can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY tiny wiggly
worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more and I
see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't look like
it.

I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next day...but not
now. The worms creep me out.

Now what do I do?

Hope this is better for you to understand.


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post said
there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish will not
likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much higher level
of salt.

According to their Mongabay profile,
http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they like
insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in nature. Will
also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh fish.)
so the fish will probably like them.

Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts, I can't
tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the tank.
You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding the "new fish"
but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the frontosas.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband NONONONO!!!
How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine yesterday
and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I also salted
it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or two
before putting the new fish in.

Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand and start
over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do that.

I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if anything
happened to them.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some insect...
possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks drifting
around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on the water
line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy movement of
the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in rather
stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think they die
off in our tanks due the water movement.

DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that loud
since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed their
fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into the water.

I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you ever
look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens of
thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die off or
be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill most
things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but make sure
you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
slightly higher salinity level.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges stayed in
the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in there and
drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and replaced it
with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything back up,
putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio wheels and
cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.

My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling through the
water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.

What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else to
bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes over a long
time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would stay in the
sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling on the
glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in the gravel
before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them before
but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure planaria like
sand very much so they are staying on the glass.

How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the tank? If the
gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long, the good
nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food (ammonia/nitrite). Now if
your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the decaying
detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep some of
the nitrifying bacteria alive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank

I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and how do I
make them go away? Are they harmful?

We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It did have
koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial water
changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size as the
Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with hte tank,
ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel. Took all
of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea aragonite sand
(we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)

Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very very small
white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them? Are they
harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can put fish
back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag with gravel
from the previous tank to help the bateria.

My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?

Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!

Jenn


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9:01 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24231 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Re: CO2 Bulkead Fittings
Thanks Vinni,

Here is a link to a comprehensive article on how to build a great DIY
CO2 Sytem that uses those fittings ~ "A Treatise on DIY CO2 Systems
for Freshwater-Planted Aquaria" by John LeVasseur ~

http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Vinni" <vinerando@...> wrote:
>
> Finally found and wanted to share the link to where you can get the
fittings
> to
> put into the cap of the 2 litre pop bottles.


http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXG849&P=M


>These things are awesome and make changing yeast and old caps a snap
> I just ordered 4 more packs for mine. you do not to use glue with
these.
> they go into the hole and the nut gets
> screwed onto the backside of the cap and seals it
>
> Vinni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24232 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Freshwater Stingrays
The following U.S. states have restrictions on freshwater stingrays:

Arizona
Arkansas
California
Florida
Georgia
Hawaii
Nevada
Oklahoma
Texas
Utah

They are either illegal to own or you need proper permits (usually
only for educational or research reasons).
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24233 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 10/1/2007
Subject: Freshwater Stingrays
There is a Yahoo! Group ~ Amazing_Rays ~ that is all about Stingrays

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/amazing_rays



Bud's Freshwater Stingray ~

http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Meadows/5590/ray.html



This site has many great photos and some articles too ~

http://www.freshwaterstingray.com/rays.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24234 From: gorsford Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Worms and bugs
I think i have some water flea. Do they cause problems?
I also have some worn taht is ~1.5 cm or ~half of an inch, hair thick,
swim in flagellum style. what are these worms? do they do any harm?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24235 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms in my tank
Jenn, Just so that you are aware, please be advised that although
you had only one knowledgeable person respond to your plight, there
are at least a few of the rest of us who regularly (daily) "monitor"
the accuracy of the information given. When the reply (replies) are
seen to be precise and comprehensive, there is no further
interjection to be needed. It is not due to apathy that you do not
get more of a response; its just not needed.

The information given to you up to this point is accurate, although I
did have reservations at first as to what these little "critters"
were. Without being able to see them, if I'd have had to take a
guess, I'd have said they were Planaria (harmless, but unsightly).
But as they are not also clinging to the glass, I have to go along
with the first consensus.

Moving beyond this point, I too would rather that you fully cycle the
tank first before introducing the Frontosa, as your water parameters
will go through some stressful spikes during the next couple of
weeks. A "fishless cycle" would be in the best interest. Lacking
that possibility, if the Fronts are presently at risk where they now
are and/or there is no other alternative, the progressive salt
treatment with the introduction of the Fronts should help protect
them from the harmful effects of spiking ammonia and nitrites, as has
already been advised.

My largest reservation there is that the normal pH for such
Tanganyika Cichlids to be kept at is in the vicinity of 9.2. If
you're planning to duplicate that, the effects of high ammonia and
nitrite at that alkalinity level may still prove toxic (read, lethal)
despite the precautions taken with salt to prevent "brown blood"
condition -- the higher the pH, the more toxic ammonia becomes. I
would still strongely urge you to first cycle the tank before adding
your fish. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Bobby & Jennifer" <Gittieup@...>
wrote:
>
> Do you think its ok to put the Frontosa in the tank tomorrow?
> The filters were only in the water for maybe an hour or less, so
not like
> they wee sitting there for a day or so.
>
> I assumed (you know what that does) that it would be okay to run
them with
> no fish for a day or so with the old cartridges and the gravel in
the filter
> bag.
>
> If I can, I would like to move the Fronts tomorrow if you think it
would be
> okay with the worms. They (the Fronts) are large and not cheap, so
I would
> hate for anything to attach itself onto them and kill them.
>
> No, the sand was not packaged wet. It was completely dry.
> We have purchased the CaribSea Cichlid sand before and it has some
type of
> liquid in it but the stuff we just bought (yesterday) was form a
good store
> and was dry.
>
> You are the only one who has responded to this worms thing and I
trust your
> knowledge completely, I have read and asked you questions before so
if you
> think the Fronts would be fine putting them in tomorrow I bet they
would
> like their new home.
>
> Jenn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> OK. I have a better picture now.
>
> I would bet that they are simply bug larvae from a laying that took
place on
> the bio-wheels in the bucket. That was stagnant water... right?
Now that
> they are in moving water, they won't live much longer due to the
front's and
> the circulation.
>
> Was the sand packaged wet? I know some CaribSea products are and
there's
> always a chance of that carrying something but still not something
that
> would likely harm your fish.
>
> Just a little FYI, I hope you know that running your filters on an
empty (no
> fish) tank for 1-2 days does nothing for "cycling" and likely
killed off
> your good nitrifying bacteria so you need to do daily testing for
> ammonia/nitrite over the next several weeks and do PWC's as
needed. I hope
> some of the gravel kept some of the bacteria alive if there was some
> decaying detritus in the gravel that would have kept feeding them.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:04 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> Sorry Lenny,
> I have had a major migraine for several days now and my typing may
be off.
>
> Established 125 gallon tank with goldfish and koi, a pictus cat and
a pleco.
> No real plants, Gravel substate, cleaned on Sundays, half one then
half
> gravel the next Sunday. Water change 25-35 % weekly on Sundays.
Crystal
> clear water, never had any problems with disease, fungus, ick,
water good.
>
> Yesterday about 7:00 pm. Took out all fish, pictus & pleco to
another
> aquarium, goldfish and koi to the pond.
> Filled bucket with tank water, put bio wheels and cartridges in
bucket with
> tank water.
> Cleaned filters, Fluval 404, 1 Emperor and another bio wheel
similar to the
> Emperor. Everything looked normal.
> Drained tank and removed all gravel. Cleaned tank (with water and
soft
> scrubber). Put in 2 new bags of CaribSea Aragonite, white sand.
Filled
> tank. No fish in tank. After about 30 minutes tank cleared of
cloudiness
> from sand and hooked up filters to run for a few days (1-2). Put
same bio
> wheels and cartidges backing to help get it established. Put a
clean filter
> bag filled with the old gravel in the tank to help with bacteria.
Added
> salt.
>
> Today about 6:00 am Left to go to work, tank lights not on yet but
looked
> VERY clear. Still no fish, filters running.
>
> Today about 6:00 pm., get home, hubby is looking up worms on
internet. I
> can barely see them (massive headache) but I can see some. VERY
tiny wiggly
> worms. Filters still running, no fish in tank. I have looked more
and I
> see very small "things" in one spot on the glass. Almost look like
> microscopic maggots, but I can't tell if they are moving, doesn't
look like
> it.
>
> I was planning on putting the Fronts in tomorrow or the next
day...but not
> now. The worms creep me out.
>
> Now what do I do?
>
> Hope this is better for you to understand.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:49 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> Oh. I didn't know you had the fish in it already. Your first post
said
> there were no fish in it. The salt level you put in for the fish
will not
> likely kill off the insect larvae. I was talking about a much
higher level
> of salt.
>
> According to their Mongabay profile,
> http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Cyphotilapia_frontosa.html, they
like
> insect larvae (FOOD: Feeds mostly on crustaceans and fish in
nature. Will
> also accept insect larvae, aquatic insects, chopped meat, and fresh
fish.)
> so the fish will probably like them.
>
> Give me a timeline again on what happened. From reading the posts,
I can't
> tell if the "worms" came before or after you added fish back to the
tank.
> You say you let the tank run for a night or two before adding
the "new fish"
> but then you later say you are preparing the tank for the
frontosas.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> I thought the bleach thing was dangerous and told my husband
NONONONO!!!
> How could there by bugs in my tank if it was up and running fine
yesterday
> and was drained, clean and refilled within a matter of hours? I
also salted
> it when we filled it back up and left the filters to run a night or
two
> before putting the new fish in.
>
> Do you think I should drain the tank completely and dump the sand
and start
> over? The Carib Sea was $37.99 a bag x 2 so UI hate to have to do
that.
>
> I am preparing the tank for my Frontosas and would hate it if
anything
> happened to them.
>
> Jenn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> Those aren't planaria. They are probably the larval stage of some
insect...
> possibly mosquito's. I can occasionally see them in my tanks
drifting
> around and wiggling like a cork-screw. The bugs lay the eggs on
the water
> line and they hatch but then do not survive because of the heavy
movement of
> the water due to the filters. Normally, they would be hatched in
rather
> stagnant water and the larvae breath from the surface but I think
they die
> off in our tanks due the water movement.
>
> DO NOT PUT BLEACH IN YOUR SUBSTRATE... sorry, but I had to say that
loud
> since someone in another forum didn't listen recently and it killed
their
> fish once the bleach (sodium hypochlorite) started leaching into
the water.
>
> I doubt that they are harmful to your tank and remember that if you
ever
> look at a drop of tank water under a microscope, you will see tens
of
> thousands of various life-forms in the water. They'll probably die
off or
> be eaten by your new fish. You could salt the tank which will kill
most
> things like that. Then after a few PWC's, you'll be OK again but
make sure
> you slowly acclimate your new fish to the tank since there will be a
> slightly higher salinity level.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 8:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> We took the fish out yesterday and the bio wheels and cartidges
stayed in
> the water, then we filed a bucket with tank water and put them in
there and
> drained the tank. We then took all of the old gravel out, and
replaced it
> with the sand. We then filled it back up, and hooked everything
back up,
> putting some of the old gravel in hose and using the same bio
wheels and
> cartridges. There are no fish in the tank right now.
>
> My husband says he can't see them on the glass, but squiggling
through the
> water. They are VERY tiny, I can barely see them.
>
> What do I do to get rid of them? We have been told by someone else
to
> bleach the tank and continue to do daily complete water changes
over a long
> time period. Is this the only way? Seems like the bleach would
stay in the
> sand and kill the fish when they are put back in.
>
> Jenn
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:31 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> Are they whitish colored and about 1/4" to 1/2" long and crawling
on the
> glass? If yes, they are most likely planaria that were living in
the gravel
> before. They are mostly nocturnal so you probably didn't see them
before
> but now that you replaced the gravel with sand, I'm not sure
planaria like
> sand very much so they are staying on the glass.
>
> How long ago was it that you took the goldfish/koi out of the
tank? If the
> gravel and filter media are out of a tank with fish for very long,
the good
> nitrifying bacteria will die off for lack of food
(ammonia/nitrite). Now if
> your gravel was dirty and you have the filter media in with it, the
decaying
> detritus will continue to put out ammonia so that would help keep
some of
> the nitrifying bacteria alive.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of ipartyforfun
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 6:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms in my tank
>
> I have very small mini mini worms in my tank, what are these and
how do I
> make them go away? Are they harmful?
>
> We have a 125 gallon tank. Established tank, not a new set up. It
did have
> koi and goldfish with rock type gravel. Cleaned weekly, partial
water
> changes, everything testing fine. We have a Fluval
> 404 and an emporer and also another bio wheel about the same size
as the
> Emperor. Crystal clear water. We have never had any problems with
hte tank,
> ick, or disease. We removed the fish and removed all of the gravel.
Took all
> of the decorations out and replaced the gravel with CaribSea
aragonite sand
> (we are putting cichlids back in the tank.)
>
> Now today ( a day later) the water is clear, but there are very
very small
> white wiggly worms. What are these and how do we get rid of them?
Are they
> harmful to the fish? Will the fish eat them? How long before we can
put fish
> back in? We are using the same filter cart and have a filter bag
with gravel
> from the previous tank to help the bateria.
>
> My husband read online about planeria? Is this what this is?
>
> Thanks for any help you can give me. They are freaky!!!!!
>
> Jenn
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.35/1040 - Release Date:
9/30/2007
> 9:01 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> .´¯`..¸¸.><((((º>..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸><((((º> ¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸<º((((><¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...<º
((((><.´¯`..¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24236 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
Water fleas (Daphnia and Moina) do not cause problems in that they are
not harmful to anything larger than Rotifers (larger, multi-celled
life). They are often used as food (even being cultured) for fish,
being highly relished by any (except the smallest) who can handle them.

These worm-like critters are almost without a doubt Planaria, which was
briefly touched on in the last post. They are not harmful, but are
indicative of excessive food and/or waste building up in your substrate
or elsewhere. A slow (as to not disturb your nitrifying bacteria) but
steady general cleaning over the the next few weeks, and a more
disciplined feeding regimen will eventually get rid of them. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
>
> I think i have some water flea. Do they cause problems?
> I also have some worn taht is ~1.5 cm or ~half of an inch, hair thick,
> swim in flagellum style. what are these worms? do they do any harm?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24237 From: Alex See Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
thanks Raymond for the response. But the worms is my tank is not Planaria.
they are not flat worms; they are the round worms. Swimming in flagellum
style, like sperms. what do you think it is? are they harmful?

On 10/2/07, Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Water fleas (Daphnia and Moina) do not cause problems in that they are
> not harmful to anything larger than Rotifers (larger, multi-celled
> life). They are often used as food (even being cultured) for fish,
> being highly relished by any (except the smallest) who can handle them.
>
> These worm-like critters are almost without a doubt Planaria, which was
> briefly touched on in the last post. They are not harmful, but are
> indicative of excessive food and/or waste building up in your substrate
> or elsewhere. A slow (as to not disturb your nitrifying bacteria) but
> steady general cleaning over the the next few weeks, and a more
> disciplined feeding regimen will eventually get rid of them. Ray
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>,
> "gorsford" <kfsee0213@...> wrote:
> >
> > I think i have some water flea. Do they cause problems?
> > I also have some worn taht is ~1.5 cm or ~half of an inch, hair thick,
> > swim in flagellum style. what are these worms? do they do any harm?
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24238 From: gorsford Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: How to determine sex of Green puffers?
as the topic, Thanks
having a hard time searching online
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24239 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: How to determine sex of Green puffers?
Which species do you have? "Green Puffer" is used on at least two different
species. In either case, from all I've read, it's very, very, very
difficult to sex them. Dwarf Puffers seem to be more easily sexed.

http://www.pufferlist.com/puffer/brackpuff.php?puffid=15

http://www.pufferlist.com/puffer/brackpuff.php?puffid=14

Here's some more links I have in my favorites folder.
http://www.dwarfpuffers.com/links.htm
http://puffernet.tripod.com/links.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 8:23 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to determine sex of Green puffers?

as the topic, Thanks
having a hard time searching online


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.37/1042 - Release Date: 10/1/2007
6:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24240 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: Worms and bugs
Here's a couple of links I have on "critters" in our tanks.

http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/Tank_critters.shtml

http://members.aol.com/larval1/critters.htm

http://www.menunkatuck.org/pages/micro2.htm

Here's a YouTube video of a squiggly worm like I think you have and like
I've had in the past. I had this link in my critters folder also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxO-uscOrnY&mode=related&search=

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 2:48 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Worms and bugs

I think i have some water flea. Do they cause problems?
I also have some worn taht is ~1.5 cm or ~half of an inch, hair thick, swim
in flagellum style. what are these worms? do they do any harm?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.37/1042 - Release Date: 10/1/2007
6:59 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24241 From: Andreas Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: Re: fresh water sting rays
whats your IM address? I don't have yahoo chat

On 10/1/07, 1 nice <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
>
> can you im me
>
> Andreas <andreas1120@... <andreas1120%40gmail.com>> wrote:
> they are very sensitive to Nitrates and can grow to 3 feet.
>
> They are hard to keep alive. but a lot of fun when you manage it
>
> Andreas
>
> On 10/1/07, 1 nice <nice6669@... <nice6669%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> >
> > any body know anything about them
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ---------------------------------
> Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
> Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24242 From: Emilie Date: 10/2/2007
Subject: fiddler Watermelon crab
Hi,

i just bought a cool watermelon crab (that is what i
was told it was called)
they were sitting in an all freshwater tank w/ no way
to get to the top.

i get home to research it more (my first mistake)
and
it looks as if this is actually a FIDDLER crab
and is brackish in nature
as well as needs to get out of the water from time to
time.

has anyone heard of a watermelon crab?

i am SO irratated that i may have to take this back.

and yes
i usually do my research BEFORE i buy things.

but it was only going to be this one crab
and
if it was in freshwater, it should be OK in my tank
etc.

ARGH

any help is appreciated.

Emilie
photography website: ashbyyokosuka.smugmug.com




____________________________________________________________________________________
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news, photos & more.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24243 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Chemical or not to chemical...
I have discovered that my filter runs much more efficiently without the
carbon insert (comes with a blue bio-sponge in a plastic holder). So I
removed the sponge and put a piece of blue bonded pad and then a media
bag filled with Efilav (which I hung in the tank for a week beforehand).
As I said, it runs a LOT more efficently. For instance, I can go to
work without fear of overflow.

So my question is, is it okay to not use chemical media, at least as
regards a little 110gph HOB? (I will be using chemical media in my
canister filter). It seems like it's really only for pretty specific
applications. Any opinions? Thanks! :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24244 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Chemical or not to chemical...
For HOB filters, I do not run chemical filtration in them for the reasons
you state... it impedes the water flow too much or too quickly. You should
not have a problem with overflowing though. Maybe you need to put a shim
between the bottom of the HOB reservoir and your tank glass, so the top of
the reservoir leans towards your tank rather than away from it. Most HOB's
have a little plastic piece that can be turned to perform this but some I
just fold up a piece of paper or cardboard and use it for a shim.

In fact, I have never run carbon in any of my tanks except to remove
occasional meds or treatments. I did recently start running SeaChem Purigen
on my 65G goldfish tank since it's rechargeable (using bleach solution) and
is more effective and efficient than carbon. It is a whitish color and
turns brown as it gets dirty, then the bleach solution makes it whitish
again. I run it in my canister filter as the last stage of filtration.

I have to clean it every couple of weeks so I have two packs of Purigen and
alternate them, but it helps keep the DOC's down, even more than my weekly
PWC's, since goldfish put out so much waste. I don't think chemical
filtration is necessary on most other community fish tanks since the regular
PWC's will keep the DOC's at safe levels but with extra dirty fish or
overstocked tanks, then it would help.

Using chemical filtration should not be used as an excuse for doing less
frequent PWC's.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Chemical or not to chemical...

I have discovered that my filter runs much more efficiently without the
carbon insert (comes with a blue bio-sponge in a plastic holder). So I
removed the sponge and put a piece of blue bonded pad and then a media bag
filled with Efilav (which I hung in the tank for a week beforehand).
As I said, it runs a LOT more efficently. For instance, I can go to work
without fear of overflow.

So my question is, is it okay to not use chemical media, at least as regards
a little 110gph HOB? (I will be using chemical media in my canister filter).
It seems like it's really only for pretty specific applications. Any
opinions? Thanks! :)



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24245 From: Jim Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Filter Tube Discolored
Hi,

I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior of my 20 gallon
fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month a half now.
I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris in
the tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some type of
maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point? Does it need
to be replaced? Thanks.

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24246 From: Andreas Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: fiddler Watermelon crab
the crab will do fine as long as it has somwhere shallow it can hang out and
breathe...

the real problem with them is they are major esapce artists...

Andreas


On 10/3/07, Emilie <ashbyyokosuka1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> i just bought a cool watermelon crab (that is what i
> was told it was called)
> they were sitting in an all freshwater tank w/ no way
> to get to the top.
>
> i get home to research it more (my first mistake)
> and
> it looks as if this is actually a FIDDLER crab
> and is brackish in nature
> as well as needs to get out of the water from time to
> time.
>
> has anyone heard of a watermelon crab?
>
> i am SO irratated that i may have to take this back.
>
> and yes
> i usually do my research BEFORE i buy things.
>
> but it was only going to be this one crab
> and
> if it was in freshwater, it should be OK in my tank
> etc.
>
> ARGH
>
> any help is appreciated.
>
> Emilie
> photography website: ashbyyokosuka.smugmug.com
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail,
> news, photos & more.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24247 From: kstringer1974 Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: fiddler Watermelon crab
I had a huge crab obsession going on for a while but the reality is
that the overwhelming majority of freshwater crabs need time out of
the water in order to breathe. If they can't get out of the water on
a regular basis, they will die. In addition, you would need to make
sure that your water has good levels of calcium in the water as they
need this for their shells. Water w/o enough calcium (as I understand
it anyhow) will make their shells soft and make them easy prey for
other animals that might be in the tank.

Also, please be aware that if you plan on keeping crabs with fish,
that crabs will try to eat your fish and vice versa (depending on the
size of each of course). I have not come across any freshwater crab
sold to consumers that will not try to eat fish in the tank.

Hope that helps. I know I was crushed when I realized that I couldn't
keep crabs and fish together without bringing on a host of problems
for myself.

Cheers,
Kevin R. Stringer


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Emilie <ashbyyokosuka1@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> i just bought a cool watermelon crab (that is what i
> was told it was called)
> they were sitting in an all freshwater tank w/ no way
> to get to the top.
>
> i get home to research it more (my first mistake)
> and
> it looks as if this is actually a FIDDLER crab
> and is brackish in nature
> as well as needs to get out of the water from time to
> time.
>
> has anyone heard of a watermelon crab?
>
> i am SO irratated that i may have to take this back.
>
> and yes
> i usually do my research BEFORE i buy things.
>
> but it was only going to be this one crab
> and
> if it was in freshwater, it should be OK in my tank
> etc.
>
> ARGH
>
> any help is appreciated.
>
> Emilie
> photography website: ashbyyokosuka.smugmug.com
>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket:
mail, news, photos & more.
> http://mobile.yahoo.com/go?refer=1GNXIC
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24248 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Purigen filter insert
I actually bought my Purigen 100ml packets from my local PetsMart using
their online prices, which the retail stores will match. But I'm sure all
the other major retailers and online stores also carry it since it's a
SeaChem product. I paid around $7.00 for the Purigen 100ml packet
(recommended for a 55G tank) but they also sell it bulk in larger containers
but you would then have to also buy the micro-mesh filter bags. My local
PetsMart didn't sell the bulk product so I just bought the two 100 ml
packages which are already in their own mesh bag.

SeaChem has instructions for recharging the product that uses bleach
solution and then soaking it in one of their pH down type products, followed
by a dechlor soak, but I think that pH down soak is just something they did
to try and sell more of their own products. I SKIPPED THAT STEP AFTER
TESTING ON MY OWN WATER. I already have high pH water and I tested the
Purigen in a gallon of my water for 24 hours and it did not raise the pH at
all after just using the bleach treatment and dechlor treatment. I guess if
you have low pH water or fish, then you should test the Purigen in a gallon
of your water to make sure it does not alter the pH. The only thing I
didn't test was whether it added to the salinity of the water since bleach
is sodium hypochlorite (Salt is Sodium Chloride) and the dechlor treats the
chlorine part of the hypochlorite but the sodium may be left in the Purigen
and may leach out but it has to be such a little amount that I don't think
it would matter on a 55G tank. It hasn't bothered any of my fish, plants,
snails, etc. over the past six months or so that I've been using it and
recharging it without using the pH down type soak.

Go to my blog and read my Filter Maintenance & Cleaning article and I talk
about Purigen more in there or you can scroll down to the labels section and
I see I have Purigen applied to two of my blogs so you can read both of them
for more first hand info from me.

If I'm not mistaken, the Bio Chemsorb is Rena's product that they give us
when we first buy one of the canister filters. My Rena Filstar's are a few
years old so I don't remember the name of the stuff. I used them in my
filters after Hurricane Katrina since I wasn't able to run the filters but 5
minutes every hour or two and couldn't do PWC's for 5 weeks, but like I said
earlier, I never did use chemical filter media in my tanks as a general rule
until I started using the Purigen six months or so ago.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Biondi [mailto:parkpac@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 4:01 PM
To: 'Lenny V. aka GoldLenny'
Subject: Purigen filter insert

Hi Lenny,

Been enjoying your posts and learning about my tropical fish. I am using a
Rena Filstar 3 on my 55 with Bio chensorb. would the Purigen filter pack
work better to clean the excess or harmful chemicals from the tank? Being
rechargeable is a big plus since the Chemsorb filters are about 7 buck mail
order,

Where do you go to purchase these items, BigAls, DrsFoster or another online
site?

Thanks for your advice.

Steve


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24249 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
At your pet shop, or elsewhere, you should be able to find a bottle brush with a long, flexible handle that can be used to clean your siphon tube. You can run it through when you do your normal maint. On your filter.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 7:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Hi,

I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior of my 20 gallon
fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month a half now.
I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris in
the tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some type of
maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point? Does it need
to be replaced? Thanks.

- Jim



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24250 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can get a small bottle brush
from your local dollar store and use it to clean the inside of the tube.
Just take the screen end off and run the bottle brush up the inside of it
and you're good to go. I bought a little set of bottle brushes with three
sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister filter tubing which is
clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the brush and use my vacuum
cleaner to suck the string through the tube and then pull the brush through
to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing about once a year or so.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Hi,

I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior of my 20 gallon fish
tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month a half now.
I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris in the
tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some type of
maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point? Does it need to be
replaced? Thanks.

- Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24251 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Lenny & Steve,

Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
also wanted to mention that the gravel in my fish tank
is turning brown in some patches. I assume that this
is also algae. Is there a recommended method for
getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!

- Jim


--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> get a small bottle brush
> from your local dollar store and use it to clean the
> inside of the tube.
> Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> brush up the inside of it
> and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> bottle brushes with three
> sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister
> filter tubing which is
> clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the brush
> and use my vacuum
> cleaner to suck the string through the tube and then
> pull the brush through
> to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing
> about once a year or so.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior
> of my 20 gallon fish
> tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month
> a half now.
> I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> sucks up the debris in the
> tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is
> there some type of
> maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this
> point? Does it need to be
> replaced? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 -
> Release Date: 10/2/2007
> 6:43 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24252 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
If the algae is not removed by your normal gravel vacuuming, you may
want ot increase the light the tank receives, and step up on the partial
water changes.

You do not mention if you have plants in your tank or not. Algae will
always be present is some degree, especially in a tank without live
plants, which generally out compete algae for nutrients, and thus keep
the amount of algae you will find to a minimum. Without live plants, you
need to keep the nitrates and phosphates to a minimal level, hence the
more frequent water changes.

Some will cringe when I say to increase the light to help remove the
algae, and the truth is that it really will not. By increasing the
light, you are giving the green type of algae a better environment, and
hopefully it will overtake the brown, so while you may still have a
problem, it looks better <g>. Also, if you have live plants, it should
stimulate them to better growth, and use of more nutrients to starve out
the algae.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Lenny & Steve,

Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
also wanted to mention that the gravel in my fish tank
is turning brown in some patches. I assume that this
is also algae. Is there a recommended method for
getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!

- Jim


--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> get a small bottle brush
> from your local dollar store and use it to clean the
> inside of the tube.
> Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> brush up the inside of it
> and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> bottle brushes with three
> sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister
> filter tubing which is
> clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the brush
> and use my vacuum
> cleaner to suck the string through the tube and then
> pull the brush through
> to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing
> about once a year or so.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior
> of my 20 gallon fish
> tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month
> a half now.
> I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> sucks up the debris in the
> tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is
> there some type of
> maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this
> point? Does it need to be
> replaced? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24253 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Chemical or not to chemical...
I did have an overflow, though. Only once, but that's enough. I was
there before it did any damage, but I need my filter to never
overflow, period. My filter does have a tab that makes it lean
towards the tank. But it still overflowed. I removed the carbon
insert, and voila, no problems. I had had that insert in for one
week. Seven days. I'm new to the hobby, but I think I can get longer
lasting media on my own.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> For HOB filters, I do not run chemical filtration in them for the
reasons
> you state... it impedes the water flow too much or too quickly.
You should
> not have a problem with overflowing though. Maybe you need to put
a shim
> between the bottom of the HOB reservoir and your tank glass, so the
top of
> the reservoir leans towards your tank rather than away from it.
Most HOB's
> have a little plastic piece that can be turned to perform this but
some I
> just fold up a piece of paper or cardboard and use it for a shim.
>
> In fact, I have never run carbon in any of my tanks except to remove
> occasional meds or treatments. I did recently start running
SeaChem Purigen
> on my 65G goldfish tank since it's rechargeable (using bleach
solution) and
> is more effective and efficient than carbon. It is a whitish color
and
> turns brown as it gets dirty, then the bleach solution makes it
whitish
> again. I run it in my canister filter as the last stage of
filtration.
>
> I have to clean it every couple of weeks so I have two packs of
Purigen and
> alternate them, but it helps keep the DOC's down, even more than my
weekly
> PWC's, since goldfish put out so much waste. I don't think chemical
> filtration is necessary on most other community fish tanks since
the regular
> PWC's will keep the DOC's at safe levels but with extra dirty fish
or
> overstocked tanks, then it would help.
>
> Using chemical filtration should not be used as an excuse for doing
less
> frequent PWC's.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 3:23 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Chemical or not to chemical...
>
> I have discovered that my filter runs much more efficiently without
the
> carbon insert (comes with a blue bio-sponge in a plastic holder).
So I
> removed the sponge and put a piece of blue bonded pad and then a
media bag
> filled with Efilav (which I hung in the tank for a week beforehand).
> As I said, it runs a LOT more efficently. For instance, I can go to
work
> without fear of overflow.
>
> So my question is, is it okay to not use chemical media, at least
as regards
> a little 110gph HOB? (I will be using chemical media in my canister
filter).
> It seems like it's really only for pretty specific applications. Any
> opinions? Thanks! :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date:
10/2/2007
> 6:43 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24254 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Thanks, Steve. I only have two plastic plants in my
tank. Are there specific live plants you would suggest
I add to the tank? Can I get these plants at a PETCO
or PetSmart? Thanks for the help.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> If the algae is not removed by your normal gravel
> vacuuming, you may
> want ot increase the light the tank receives, and
> step up on the partial
> water changes.
>
> You do not mention if you have plants in your tank
> or not. Algae will
> always be present is some degree, especially in a
> tank without live
> plants, which generally out compete algae for
> nutrients, and thus keep
> the amount of algae you will find to a minimum.
> Without live plants, you
> need to keep the nitrates and phosphates to a
> minimal level, hence the
> more frequent water changes.
>
> Some will cringe when I say to increase the light to
> help remove the
> algae, and the truth is that it really will not. By
> increasing the
> light, you are giving the green type of algae a
> better environment, and
> hopefully it will overtake the brown, so while you
> may still have a
> problem, it looks better <g>. Also, if you have live
> plants, it should
> stimulate them to better growth, and use of more
> nutrients to starve out
> the algae.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
> also wanted to mention that the gravel in my fish
> tank
> is turning brown in some patches. I assume that this
> is also algae. Is there a recommended method for
> getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> > get a small bottle brush
> > from your local dollar store and use it to clean
> the
> > inside of the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> > brush up the inside of it
> > and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> > bottle brushes with three
> > sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister
> > filter tubing which is
> > clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the
> brush
> > and use my vacuum
> > cleaner to suck the string through the tube and
> then
> > pull the brush through
> > to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing
> > about once a year or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior
> > of my 20 gallon fish
> > tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a
> month
> > a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> > sucks up the debris in the
> > tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is
> > there some type of
> > maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this
> > point? Does it need to be
> > replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
> >
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24255 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
How new is your tank setup? If it's recently set up, it could be diatoms
(aka brown algae but it's not actually an algae). Diatoms often show up in
new tanks from silicates in the water or that might leach from new
substrate. It usually dies off on it's own after a few months. It's
usually not very sticky like algae so it comes right up when you do your
gravel vacuuming with your weekly/bi-weekly PWC's.

If your tank isn't recently set up, then the algae is indicative that you
are possibly overfeeding, not vacuuming the gravel enough or not doing
frequent enough PWC's, leaving the lights on too long or you could just have
a water source with high phosphates/nitrates and you'll have to do other
"natural" things to get rid of the algae. DO NOT USE CHEMICALS at this
point and they are usually not needed at all if other preventive measures
are taken.

What are your test results for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature,
KH and GH?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Lenny & Steve,

Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I also wanted to mention
that the gravel in my fish tank is turning brown in some patches. I assume
that this is also algae. Is there a recommended method for getting rid of
the discolored gravel? Thanks!

- Jim


--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can get a small bottle
> brush from your local dollar store and use it to clean the inside of
> the tube.
> Just take the screen end off and run the bottle brush up the inside of
> it and you're good to go. I bought a little set of bottle brushes with
> three sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister filter tubing
> which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the brush and use my
> vacuum cleaner to suck the string through the tube and then pull the
> brush through to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing about
> once a year or so.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the exterior of my 20 gallon
> fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a month a half now.
> I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris
> in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some type
> of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point? Does it
> need to be replaced? Thanks.
>
> - Jim
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24256 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Be careful of which plants you buy from the big box stores as they also sell
bog plants as aquarium plants and the bog plants will not live long term
under water so they will die and foul your water if you don't trash them.

Here's a list of easy and very easy plants so you don't need special
lighting, nutrients or CO2. The lists also give you ideas as to where each
plant does best for decoration purposes.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

If you don't want to get into the planted tank yet, buy some Anacharis and
just leave it floating on the surface. It does not need to be planted. It
will suck up nutrients from your water and get plenty of light since it's on
the surface close to the light and CO2 from the room air. This allows it to
really suck up the nutrients from the water and it will also add O2 to your
water. Live plants of some sort should be in most tanks. Also, if you have
livebearers or if your fish lay eggs that hatch, the Anacharis will provide
hiding places for the fry so some might live.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Thanks, Steve. I only have two plastic plants in my tank. Are there specific
live plants you would suggest I add to the tank? Can I get these plants at a
PETCO or PetSmart? Thanks for the help.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> >
wrote:

> If the algae is not removed by your normal gravel vacuuming, you may
> want ot increase the light the tank receives, and step up on the
> partial water changes.
>
> You do not mention if you have plants in your tank or not. Algae will
> always be present is some degree, especially in a tank without live
> plants, which generally out compete algae for nutrients, and thus keep
> the amount of algae you will find to a minimum.
> Without live plants, you
> need to keep the nitrates and phosphates to a minimal level, hence the
> more frequent water changes.
>
> Some will cringe when I say to increase the light to help remove the
> algae, and the truth is that it really will not. By increasing the
> light, you are giving the green type of algae a better environment,
> and hopefully it will overtake the brown, so while you may still have
> a problem, it looks better <g>. Also, if you have live plants, it
> should stimulate them to better growth, and use of more nutrients to
> starve out the algae.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I also wanted to
> mention that the gravel in my fish tank is turning brown in some
> patches. I assume that this is also algae. Is there a recommended
> method for getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can get a small bottle
> > brush from your local dollar store and use it to clean
> the
> > inside of the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle brush up the inside
> > of it and you're good to go. I bought a little set of bottle brushes
> > with three sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister filter
> > tubing which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the
> brush
> > and use my vacuum
> > cleaner to suck the string through the tube and
> then
> > pull the brush through
> > to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing about once a year
> > or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior
> > of my 20 gallon fish
> > tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a
> month
> > a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris
> > in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some
> > type of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point?
> > Does it need to be replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24257 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
I hate a question like this. I do not want to place my prejudices on
anyone. First, a little anecdote from my years of fishkeeping. There is
a fish known as Aphyosemion gardneri now known as Fundulopanchax
gardneri gardneri), a killifish. It is usually given to beginners with
killifish by other killifish fanciers. The reason for this is because it
is an ideal fish for the beginner killikeeper, hardy and easy to breed.
Fine, I'll buy that. However, no matter what I tried, I could not keep
those suckers alive, never mind breed them! I went on and was successful
with a number of other killies, but could never keep those suckers.

An oft repeated phrase is that the difference between the beginner and
the experienced fishkeeper is in the price of the fish they kill. As you
can see from the above, it ain't necessarily so <g>!

So, I could name a few plants I think are easy for the novice, only to
be fooled by whatever conditions you have that I am not aware, and then
you have a disappointing experience on your hands, and, of course, I am
to blame <g>.

What I would suggest is that you visit your local supplier(s) and see
what they may have in stock for live plants. Pick out a number of them
you may like, and then go and read up on those plants to find what they
may need with regard to water conditions and substrate. Then make your
choice. Feel free to ask questions here before you buy, as others may be
able to relate their experiences.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Thanks, Steve. I only have two plastic plants in my
tank. Are there specific live plants you would suggest
I add to the tank? Can I get these plants at a PETCO
or PetSmart? Thanks for the help.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:

> If the algae is not removed by your normal gravel
> vacuuming, you may
> want ot increase the light the tank receives, and
> step up on the partial
> water changes.
>
> You do not mention if you have plants in your tank
> or not. Algae will
> always be present is some degree, especially in a
> tank without live
> plants, which generally out compete algae for
> nutrients, and thus keep
> the amount of algae you will find to a minimum.
> Without live plants, you
> need to keep the nitrates and phosphates to a
> minimal level, hence the
> more frequent water changes.
>
> Some will cringe when I say to increase the light to
> help remove the
> algae, and the truth is that it really will not. By
> increasing the
> light, you are giving the green type of algae a
> better environment, and
> hopefully it will overtake the brown, so while you
> may still have a
> problem, it looks better <g>. Also, if you have live
> plants, it should
> stimulate them to better growth, and use of more
> nutrients to starve out
> the algae.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
> also wanted to mention that the gravel in my fish
> tank
> is turning brown in some patches. I assume that this
> is also algae. Is there a recommended method for
> getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> > get a small bottle brush
> > from your local dollar store and use it to clean
> the
> > inside of the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> > brush up the inside of it
> > and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> > bottle brushes with three
> > sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister
> > filter tubing which is
> > clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the
> brush
> > and use my vacuum
> > cleaner to suck the string through the tube and
> then
> > pull the brush through
> > to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing
> > about once a year or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior
> > of my 20 gallon fish
> > tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a
> month
> > a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> > sucks up the debris in the
> > tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is
> > there some type of
> > maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this
> > point? Does it need to be
> > replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24258 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/3/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Chicken! ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

I hate a question like this. I do not want to place my prejudices on anyone.
First, a little anecdote from my years of fishkeeping. There is a fish known
as Aphyosemion gardneri now known as Fundulopanchax gardneri gardneri), a
killifish. It is usually given to beginners with killifish by other
killifish fanciers. The reason for this is because it is an ideal fish for
the beginner killikeeper, hardy and easy to breed.
Fine, I'll buy that. However, no matter what I tried, I could not keep those
suckers alive, never mind breed them! I went on and was successful with a
number of other killies, but could never keep those suckers.

An oft repeated phrase is that the difference between the beginner and the
experienced fishkeeper is in the price of the fish they kill. As you can see
from the above, it ain't necessarily so <g>!

So, I could name a few plants I think are easy for the novice, only to be
fooled by whatever conditions you have that I am not aware, and then you
have a disappointing experience on your hands, and, of course, I am to blame
<g>.

What I would suggest is that you visit your local supplier(s) and see what
they may have in stock for live plants. Pick out a number of them you may
like, and then go and read up on those plants to find what they may need
with regard to water conditions and substrate. Then make your choice. Feel
free to ask questions here before you buy, as others may be able to relate
their experiences.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Thanks, Steve. I only have two plastic plants in my tank. Are there specific
live plants you would suggest I add to the tank? Can I get these plants at a
PETCO or PetSmart? Thanks for the help.

- Jim

--- Steve Szabo <steve@... <mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> >
wrote:

> If the algae is not removed by your normal gravel vacuuming, you may
> want ot increase the light the tank receives, and step up on the
> partial water changes.
>
> You do not mention if you have plants in your tank or not. Algae will
> always be present is some degree, especially in a tank without live
> plants, which generally out compete algae for nutrients, and thus keep
> the amount of algae you will find to a minimum.
> Without live plants, you
> need to keep the nitrates and phosphates to a minimal level, hence the
> more frequent water changes.
>
> Some will cringe when I say to increase the light to help remove the
> algae, and the truth is that it really will not. By increasing the
> light, you are giving the green type of algae a better environment,
> and hopefully it will overtake the brown, so while you may still have
> a problem, it looks better <g>. Also, if you have live plants, it
> should stimulate them to better growth, and use of more nutrients to
> starve out the algae.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I also wanted to
> mention that the gravel in my fish tank is turning brown in some
> patches. I assume that this is also algae. Is there a recommended
> method for getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can get a small bottle
> > brush from your local dollar store and use it to clean
> the
> > inside of the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle brush up the inside
> > of it and you're good to go. I bought a little set of bottle brushes
> > with three sizes and I also use the larger one on my canister filter
> > tubing which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to the
> brush
> > and use my vacuum
> > cleaner to suck the string through the tube and
> then
> > pull the brush through
> > to clean the algae from the inside of the tubing about once a year
> > or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior
> > of my 20 gallon fish
> > tank. I've had the tank and filter for about a
> month
> > a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that sucks up the debris
> > in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in color. Is there some
> > type of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at this point?
> > Does it need to be replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24259 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Lenny,

I've had the tank set up for about a month and a half
now. It is a 20 gallon tank. I've been performing
reqular PWCs and have been using a liquid master test
kit to test the water parameters. I probably need to
perform the PWCs more frequently. I have not been
vacuuming the gravel that much, just taking out the
old water and putting in the new. I will test the
water levels this afternoon when I get home from work
and will give you a reading sometime this evening.

Lenny & Steve - Thank you both for your help with my
questions. I don't think I would have made it this far
in this hobby without your help and the help of others
in this group.

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> How new is your tank setup? If it's recently set
> up, it could be diatoms
> (aka brown algae but it's not actually an algae).
> Diatoms often show up in
> new tanks from silicates in the water or that might
> leach from new
> substrate. It usually dies off on it's own after a
> few months. It's
> usually not very sticky like algae so it comes right
> up when you do your
> gravel vacuuming with your weekly/bi-weekly PWC's.
>
> If your tank isn't recently set up, then the algae
> is indicative that you
> are possibly overfeeding, not vacuuming the gravel
> enough or not doing
> frequent enough PWC's, leaving the lights on too
> long or you could just have
> a water source with high phosphates/nitrates and
> you'll have to do other
> "natural" things to get rid of the algae. DO NOT
> USE CHEMICALS at this
> point and they are usually not needed at all if
> other preventive measures
> are taken.
>
> What are your test results for ammonia, nitrite,
> nitrate, pH, temperature,
> KH and GH?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
> also wanted to mention
> that the gravel in my fish tank is turning brown in
> some patches. I assume
> that this is also algae. Is there a recommended
> method for getting rid of
> the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> get a small bottle
> > brush from your local dollar store and use it to
> clean the inside of
> > the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> brush up the inside of
> > it and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> bottle brushes with
> > three sizes and I also use the larger one on my
> canister filter tubing
> > which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to
> the brush and use my
> > vacuum cleaner to suck the string through the tube
> and then pull the
> > brush through to clean the algae from the inside
> of the tubing about
> > once a year or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior of my 20 gallon
> > fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for about
> a month a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> sucks up the debris
> > in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in
> color. Is there some type
> > of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at
> this point? Does it
> > need to be replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 -
> Release Date: 10/2/2007
> 6:43 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24260 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Vacuuming the gravel on a regular basis is a MUST. Otherwise, detritus
(feces, etc.) will build up and cause all kinds of problems from
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate issues to bad bacteria/parasite issues as well as
dirty stinky water. A gravel vacuum & siphon tube performs this function
rather easily and removes the water for your PWC at the same time.

One of my recent blogs is on how to start the siphon effect on a gravel
vacuum (in case you are simply using a container) to remove water during
your PWC's and vacuum your gravel at the same time. For a 20G, you can buy
a gravel vacuum at your LFS or chain store for around $5.00 - $10.00. As
you begin to contract MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome), you'll want to invest in
a Python Water Change & Refill kit for around $25.00 which makes it much
easier to vacuum the gravel, remove water and then refill the tanks. It
would be good on your 20G too but it's also fine to use a simple gravel
vacuum tube/siphon for a single tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jim Riley
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored

Lenny,

I've had the tank set up for about a month and a half now. It is a 20 gallon
tank. I've been performing reqular PWCs and have been using a liquid master
test kit to test the water parameters. I probably need to perform the PWCs
more frequently. I have not been vacuuming the gravel that much, just taking
out the old water and putting in the new. I will test the water levels this
afternoon when I get home from work and will give you a reading sometime
this evening.

Lenny & Steve - Thank you both for your help with my questions. I don't
think I would have made it this far in this hobby without your help and the
help of others in this group.

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> How new is your tank setup? If it's recently set up, it could be
> diatoms (aka brown algae but it's not actually an algae).
> Diatoms often show up in
> new tanks from silicates in the water or that might leach from new
> substrate. It usually dies off on it's own after a few months. It's
> usually not very sticky like algae so it comes right up when you do
> your gravel vacuuming with your weekly/bi-weekly PWC's.
>
> If your tank isn't recently set up, then the algae is indicative that
> you are possibly overfeeding, not vacuuming the gravel enough or not
> doing frequent enough PWC's, leaving the lights on too long or you
> could just have a water source with high phosphates/nitrates and
> you'll have to do other "natural" things to get rid of the algae. DO
> NOT USE CHEMICALS at this point and they are usually not needed at all
> if other preventive measures are taken.
>
> What are your test results for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH,
> temperature, KH and GH?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:11 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny & Steve,
>
> Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I also wanted to
> mention that the gravel in my fish tank is turning brown in some
> patches. I assume that this is also algae. Is there a recommended
> method for getting rid of the discolored gravel? Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> get a small bottle
> > brush from your local dollar store and use it to
> clean the inside of
> > the tube.
> > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> brush up the inside of
> > it and you're good to go. I bought a little set of
> bottle brushes with
> > three sizes and I also use the larger one on my
> canister filter tubing
> > which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string to
> the brush and use my
> > vacuum cleaner to suck the string through the tube
> and then pull the
> > brush through to clean the algae from the inside
> of the tubing about
> > once a year or so.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of Jim
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> exterior of my 20 gallon
> > fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for about
> a month a half now.
> > I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> sucks up the debris
> > in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in
> color. Is there some type
> > of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at
> this point? Does it
> > need to be replaced? Thanks.
> >
> > - Jim
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.13.39/1045 - Release Date: 10/2/2007
6:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24261 From: Jim Riley Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Re: Filter Tube Discolored
Thanks for the help, Lenny. I need to step up my tank
maintenance!

- Jim

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Vacuuming the gravel on a regular basis is a MUST.
> Otherwise, detritus
> (feces, etc.) will build up and cause all kinds of
> problems from
> ammonia/nitrite/nitrate issues to bad
> bacteria/parasite issues as well as
> dirty stinky water. A gravel vacuum & siphon tube
> performs this function
> rather easily and removes the water for your PWC at
> the same time.
>
> One of my recent blogs is on how to start the siphon
> effect on a gravel
> vacuum (in case you are simply using a container) to
> remove water during
> your PWC's and vacuum your gravel at the same time.
> For a 20G, you can buy
> a gravel vacuum at your LFS or chain store for
> around $5.00 - $10.00. As
> you begin to contract MTS (Multiple Tank Syndrome),
> you'll want to invest in
> a Python Water Change & Refill kit for around $25.00
> which makes it much
> easier to vacuum the gravel, remove water and then
> refill the tanks. It
> would be good on your 20G too but it's also fine to
> use a simple gravel
> vacuum tube/siphon for a single tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jim Riley
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 7:51 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
>
> Lenny,
>
> I've had the tank set up for about a month and a
> half now. It is a 20 gallon
> tank. I've been performing reqular PWCs and have
> been using a liquid master
> test kit to test the water parameters. I probably
> need to perform the PWCs
> more frequently. I have not been vacuuming the
> gravel that much, just taking
> out the old water and putting in the new. I will
> test the water levels this
> afternoon when I get home from work and will give
> you a reading sometime
> this evening.
>
> Lenny & Steve - Thank you both for your help with my
> questions. I don't
> think I would have made it this far in this hobby
> without your help and the
> help of others in this group.
>
> - Jim
>
> --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> wrote:
>
> > How new is your tank setup? If it's recently set
> up, it could be
> > diatoms (aka brown algae but it's not actually an
> algae).
> > Diatoms often show up in
> > new tanks from silicates in the water or that
> might leach from new
> > substrate. It usually dies off on it's own after a
> few months. It's
> > usually not very sticky like algae so it comes
> right up when you do
> > your gravel vacuuming with your weekly/bi-weekly
> PWC's.
> >
> > If your tank isn't recently set up, then the algae
> is indicative that
> > you are possibly overfeeding, not vacuuming the
> gravel enough or not
> > doing frequent enough PWC's, leaving the lights on
> too long or you
> > could just have a water source with high
> phosphates/nitrates and
> > you'll have to do other "natural" things to get
> rid of the algae. DO
> > NOT USE CHEMICALS at this point and they are
> usually not needed at all
> > if other preventive measures are taken.
> >
> > What are your test results for ammonia, nitrite,
> nitrate, pH,
> > temperature, KH and GH?
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf
> Of Jim Riley
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:11 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> >
> > Lenny & Steve,
> >
> > Thanks for your helpful responses to my posting. I
> also wanted to
> > mention that the gravel in my fish tank is turning
> brown in some
> > patches. I assume that this is also algae. Is
> there a recommended
> > method for getting rid of the discolored gravel?
> Thanks!
> >
> > - Jim
> >
> >
> > --- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
> > <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > It's just algae growing inside the tube. You can
> > get a small bottle
> > > brush from your local dollar store and use it to
> > clean the inside of
> > > the tube.
> > > Just take the screen end off and run the bottle
> > brush up the inside of
> > > it and you're good to go. I bought a little set
> of
> > bottle brushes with
> > > three sizes and I also use the larger one on my
> > canister filter tubing
> > > which is clear/opaque. I tie a piece of string
> to
> > the brush and use my
> > > vacuum cleaner to suck the string through the
> tube
> > and then pull the
> > > brush through to clean the algae from the inside
> > of the tubing about
> > > once a year or so.
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On
> Behalf
> > Of Jim
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 6:03 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Filter Tube Discolored
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > I have a TopFin 20 filter that hangs on the
> > exterior of my 20 gallon
> > > fish tank. I've had the tank and filter for
> about
> > a month a half now.
> > > I've started to notice that the filter tube that
> > sucks up the debris
> > > in the tank is becoming slightly brownish in
> > color. Is there some type
> > > of maintenance I need to perform on the tube at
> > this point? Does it
> > > need to be replaced? Thanks.
> > >
> > > - Jim
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>
=== message truncated ===




____________________________________________________________________________________
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24262 From: joshualevy Date: 10/4/2007
Subject: Silicon Valley Aquarium Society's Yearly Auction is Oct 6 in San Jos
If you are interested in the aquarium hobby the Silicon Valley
Aquarium Society is the place to be on Saturday October 6 at 7:30pm.
We're having our annual MegaAuction. All auction, all night with a
great bunch of people!

We're also having a big raffle with lots of prizes and a nice fish
tank for the Grand Prize.

Round Table Pizza
4400 Stevens Creek Blvd in San Jose

Please note that this is a different Round Table than all our
previous MegaAuctions. It is very near the old one. The time is also
1/2 hour later. Please do not bring any outside food or beverages
into the restaurant. This is no longer allowed at this new place.

Our website is: www.svas.info
You can download a map and auction check-in forms and read the
auction rules there. You can also learn about proper bagging and
labelling of auction items.

Anyone and everyone is invited to attend. Visitors to the meeting
may purchase items for cash only. Visitors may put items in the
MegaAuction. You can also become a member at the MegaAuction and run
a tab during the evening for all your purchases.

Anyone wishing to put items in the auction for sale should arrive no
later than 7:00pm. The items must be aquarium hobby related and
properly bagged and labelled. All auction entries must have an
auction check-in form. Please see our website to download the
check-in form. Late items may not be accepted and if accepted may not
be sold due to time constraints. All late items will be sold, if time
allows, after the end of the regular auction.

Come join us for future meetings as well. Always 7:30 on the first
Saturday of the month. Here are some of our exciting upcoming
speakers:

November 3, 2007
Ted Judy
"Color and Communication in the Genus Pelvichromis"

December 1, 2007
Dick Au
"The Art of Selecting, Grooming and Showing Discus "

January 5, 2008
TBA

February 2, 2008
Dr. Barry Rice
"Carnivorous Plants"

March 1, 2008
Oliver Lucanus
"TBA"

The Silicon Valley Aquarium Society is a non-profit fraternal and
educational organization whose purpose is to help tropical fish
hobbyists of the San Jose, California area learn about, share and
enjoy their hobby in a congenial, family atmosphere.

We all hope you will join us on this special night and have so much
fun you'll keep coming back.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24263 From: friendtoallfish Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: repairing a tank
I have a spare 55 gallon tank. (48x13x20) It has been in storage for
awhile. Upon getting ready to set it up I noticed the tank has a few
chips and the top tank brace is broken. How hard of a chore would this
be to repair? Could a person silicon the brace back together and put
silicon in the chips to support the tank? The tank still held water
even though the chips were in the corner, but with the top brace gone
I am worried about it bursting. Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24264 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: repairing a tank
I don't think silicone would be the proper adhesive for the frame. Some
kind of epoxy made for plastic would be best and there should also be a
cross member across the middle of the tank. Since it's 20" tall, there is a
lot more water pressure against the glass so that if the middle bracket is
missing or broken, the glass could bow out a little which can create
possible stress issues on the glass. Do not use epoxy on the glass as it is
more permanent and if you ever need to replace one of the glass panels,
silicone is easier to remove.

If the chips are on the outside edges of corners, they should not be a major
structural issue but if you could find some corner bracing (most any kind of
plastic corners at a big-box hardware or metal if the tank is old enough to
have a metal frame) and cover the outside corners with the brace material
and silicone that in, it would protect the tank from further damage. That's
the main thing you would need to worry about as those chipped edges present
likely stress areas, especially if they are hit again, they could start a
crack running through the glass.

Or you could start looking around for a used 55G that's in better shape.
55's are pretty common size and are more available than most larger tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of friendtoallfish
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 7:01 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] repairing a tank

I have a spare 55 gallon tank. (48x13x20) It has been in storage for awhile.
Upon getting ready to set it up I noticed the tank has a few chips and the
top tank brace is broken. How hard of a chore would this be to repair? Could
a person silicon the brace back together and put silicon in the chips to
support the tank? The tank still held water even though the chips were in
the corner, but with the top brace gone I am worried about it bursting.
Thanks

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.1/1050 - Release Date: 10/4/2007
5:03 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24265 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: repairing a tank
You can purchase a new frame here:
http://www.glasscages.com/?sAction=ViewCat&lCatID=43

Glass lids should be easy to find at most LFS.



On 10/5/07, friendtoallfish <pearlysmith2000@...> wrote:
>
> I have a spare 55 gallon tank. (48x13x20) It has been in storage for
> awhile. Upon getting ready to set it up I noticed the tank has a few
> chips and the top tank brace is broken. How hard of a chore would this
> be to repair? Could a person silicon the brace back together and put
> silicon in the chips to support the tank? The tank still held water
> even though the chips were in the corner, but with the top brace gone
> I am worried about it bursting. Thanks
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24266 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Pond fish disappeared!
Hi there! I'm new to this site but I was hoping to get some insight as
to what might have happened to my fish.

I live in Southern Ontario and my pond is steep-sided to reduce
predation. About 12x6 feet (In a kidney shape) and three feet deep with
lots of lilies to hide in. I have never lost more than a fish or two
in season that I'm aware of, and the fish winter beautifully. No
floaters!

On Tuesday morning I had about 20+ beautiful goldfish, some of which
I've had for six years. These were some pretty big fish. They were very
tame and some had names. (And, yes, I do know that's weird!)

Wednesday evening I had none except for three tiny ones I eventualy
scared out of the lilies. I can't for the life of me figure out what
could decimate that big a population. I have noisy dogs that usually
have the run of the yard during the day so racoons and cats avoid my
back yard.

I'm in the city and other than squirrels and a groundhog (Not much of a
fish eater!) I see very little wildlife. I certainly haven't seen
anything that could eat that many fish in such a short period of time.

I can't imagine anyone risking the dogs to climb a five foot locked
fence and steal goldfish.

I'm completely depressed and don't understand where ALL my fish have
gone. (Not sure what I'm going to tell my neices and nephews. They
loved watching and playing with these guys. *SIGH*)

Has this ever happened to anyone?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24267 From: Francina Martinez Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
The only thing that comes to my mind is bird predation. What sort of birds do you have migrating through your area or have you noticed a new hawk or eagle or falcon in the area?


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: l.ellis@...: Sat, 6 Oct 2007 00:37:54 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Pond fish disappeared!




Hi there! I'm new to this site but I was hoping to get some insight as to what might have happened to my fish. I live in Southern Ontario and my pond is steep-sided to reduce predation. About 12x6 feet (In a kidney shape) and three feet deep with lots of lilies to hide in. I have never lost more than a fish or two in season that I'm aware of, and the fish winter beautifully. No floaters!On Tuesday morning I had about 20+ beautiful goldfish, some of which I've had for six years. These were some pretty big fish. They were very tame and some had names. (And, yes, I do know that's weird!) Wednesday evening I had none except for three tiny ones I eventualy scared out of the lilies. I can't for the life of me figure out what could decimate that big a population. I have noisy dogs that usually have the run of the yard during the day so racoons and cats avoid my back yard. I'm in the city and other than squirrels and a groundhog (Not much of a fish eater!) I see very little wildlife. I certainly haven't seen anything that could eat that many fish in such a short period of time. I can't imagine anyone risking the dogs to climb a five foot locked fence and steal goldfish.I'm completely depressed and don't understand where ALL my fish have gone. (Not sure what I'm going to tell my neices and nephews. They loved watching and playing with these guys. *SIGH*)Has this ever happened to anyone?






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24268 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
Unless you can rule this out, the possibility of fish thieves (people
with nets) is real and not unheard of especially if the fish are Koi
(which these were not), but 6 year old Goldfish might be almost as
tempting to some people because of their size. If you can positively
rule that out, the next strongest possibilty is a Blue Heron(s), a
type of large fish eating bird which would not need to climb fences
but just "drop in" for a meal. They are crafty enough to avoid
detection but if discovered by your dogs are persistent enough to
keep returning to get their fill after they get chased off. And
these birds are found in Ontario. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "amorgan4me" <l.ellis@...> wrote:
>
> Hi there! I'm new to this site but I was hoping to get some insight
as
> to what might have happened to my fish.
>
> I live in Southern Ontario and my pond is steep-sided to reduce
> predation. About 12x6 feet (In a kidney shape) and three feet deep
with
> lots of lilies to hide in. I have never lost more than a fish or
two
> in season that I'm aware of, and the fish winter beautifully. No
> floaters!
>
> On Tuesday morning I had about 20+ beautiful goldfish, some of
which
> I've had for six years. These were some pretty big fish. They were
very
> tame and some had names. (And, yes, I do know that's weird!)
>
> Wednesday evening I had none except for three tiny ones I eventualy
> scared out of the lilies. I can't for the life of me figure out
what
> could decimate that big a population. I have noisy dogs that
usually
> have the run of the yard during the day so racoons and cats avoid
my
> back yard.
>
> I'm in the city and other than squirrels and a groundhog (Not much
of a
> fish eater!) I see very little wildlife. I certainly haven't seen
> anything that could eat that many fish in such a short period of
time.
>
> I can't imagine anyone risking the dogs to climb a five foot locked
> fence and steal goldfish.
>
> I'm completely depressed and don't understand where ALL my fish
have
> gone. (Not sure what I'm going to tell my neices and nephews. They
> loved watching and playing with these guys. *SIGH*)
>
> Has this ever happened to anyone?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24269 From: Kevin E Boyle Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
yes, my mother had a sizeable goldfish pond half cleared out by a large heron. it would probably have been completely cleared out had she not seen what was going on and grabbed one of my nephews super soakers and scared it off. she now has a network of wood about seven feet over the pond; it allows for viewing and maintenance but keeps the pond relatively hidden, especially from large predatory birds!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24270 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/5/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
I hadn't thought of a heron because the plant ledge is small and the
pond is deep but I could certainly see one having the capacity to pig
out and catch quite a few. I'm no even sure the dogs would worry it
much if it didn't react. (They tend to just bark at people and furry
things that run.)

I could almost deal with an animal eating them but I just hate the
thought of someone trespassing and stealing the fish. I'd like to
think the dogs wouldn't tolerate that but I guess you never know. I
had some really pretty red and whites and the three I liked the best
are gone for sure.

Bummer.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24271 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
While unfortunately its too late to do anything about those unlucky
Goldfish, there are ways to counteract the intentions of these large
fish eating birds short of using netting over the pond at all times:

(1) If you have a series of trees, etc. in the vicinity of the pond,
you can string a series of monofilament fishing lines criss-crossing
above the pond, extending somewhat over the surrounding land area.
As the Heron makes its approach and hits this booby-trap, it will
often cause the bird to veer off thinking twice about making a
landing when hitting this stuff.

(2) In the event the above has not disuaded the bird, This same
monofilament line can be employed to act as an obsticle course (or
gentle "persuader"). The usual behavior for these birds approaching
a pond is almost always for them to land a short distance away and
walk to the edge of the pond. If the fishing line is strung around
the perimeter of the pond about a foot away from the edge and about
6" high, it will act as a barrier to any such bird approaching the
ponds edge. Blue Herons' legs are particularly sensitive. As it
walks towards the pond's edge, its legs will abruptly encounter the
clear, unseen nylon line with such a startle that it will usually
experience such a spooking as to never return.

(3) A network of large-mesh fabric or more solid substance (molded
plastic, etc.), preferably of little optical property, can be
positioned about 6" to 9" below the water surface, encompasing most
of the pond's area except where large plants (water lillies, etc.)
are growing. The mesh should be large enough so that it will not
interfere in the least with the fish's free movement through it, yet
prevent any bird from having the opportunity of penetrating the water
beyond this level to snatch a fish. Being below the water, it will
be relatively unobtrusive to the viewer, yet still afford the fish
protection.

(4) There are both aluminum-framed black nylon cloth covered and
solid cast heavy plastic "Koi Castles" available on the market, which
are essentially approximately 2 ft. long tunnels to be placed on the
bottom of the pond giving the fish a place to hide when danger comes
near. Such protective "tunnels" can be made by the pond owner by
setting up large rocks on the bottom, covered with pieces of large
slate in a stable manner, giving the fish ledges which to hide under.

(5) Additionally, there are motion-detector activated "Scarecrows" on
the market which when triggered by the movements of a nearby bird,
will shoot a long reaching spray of water (it is hooked up to your
outside water faucet) and at the same time display visual and audio
warning signals (its battery operated).

(6) Blue Herons are known to be highly territorial. When one bird
stakes out a pond, another will be sure to avoid it. This attribute
can be taken advantage of by placing a realistic dummy of a Blue
Heron in an obvious position near the pond. It must be moved
frequently so as not to arouse the suspicion in any other similar
birds in the vicinity, that it is not just a facsimily.

(7) A wooden model of a Goldfish, similar in size to the livestock in
your pond and painted a very noticeable bright orange, can be made.
There are two ways to use this to disuade Blue Herons. First, to
this a metal eye-screw is to be installed in the bottom side (belly
region). A heavy cord is tied to this and the opposite end is tied
to a large rock (brick, etc.) with just enough line that the wooden
fish will float just at the surface. A second deviation of this is
to install two eye hooks in the belly region, with a cord tied to the
mid-way point of a short length of cord tied between the two eye-
hooks (this, to skirt the problem of having to find the central
balance/flotation point). The "fish" is floated (suspended) about a
foot or less below the surface, preferably on a line which is rigged
as a slip-through (similar to how fishermen rig their sinkers and
live-bait set-ups), again with the very end of the cord being tied to
a rock and having a length of slack. This slack line will all too
soon come to an end as the bird flies away with the "fish" before it
gets abruptly yanked out of it mouth as it reaches the lines' end.
The only difference here is that the second method allows the bird to
gain flight before his "prize" is yanked from his mouth.

All these above methods have been tried by many pond keepers and work
to various degrees (depending on the individual circumstances, and
the individual intelligence of the bird - LOL), and are established
recommendations for those experiencing the same problems. When all
else fails, a good guard dog (which is not complacent to large birds)
can be put on duty. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "amorgan4me" <l.ellis@...> wrote:
>
> I hadn't thought of a heron because the plant ledge is small and the
> pond is deep but I could certainly see one having the capacity to
pig
> out and catch quite a few. I'm no even sure the dogs would worry it
> much if it didn't react. (They tend to just bark at people and furry
> things that run.)
>
> I could almost deal with an animal eating them but I just hate the
> thought of someone trespassing and stealing the fish. I'd like to
> think the dogs wouldn't tolerate that but I guess you never know. I
> had some really pretty red and whites and the three I liked the best
> are gone for sure.
>
> Bummer.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24272 From: harry perry Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!/The Great Blue Heron
First off welcome to the group. Herons "fish" at night as well as daytime.

Try this http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Ardea_herodias.html

Harry

Raymond Wetzel <sevenspringss@...> wrote: Unless you can rule this out, the possibility of fish thieves (people
with nets) is real and not unheard of especially if the fish are Koi
(which these were not), but 6 year old Goldfish might be almost as
tempting to some people because of their size. If you can positively
rule that out, the next strongest possibilty is a Blue Heron(s), a
type of large fish eating bird which would not need to climb fences
but just "drop in" for a meal. They are crafty enough to avoid
detection but if discovered by your dogs are persistent enough to
keep returning to get their fill after they get chased off. And
these birds are found in Ontario. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "amorgan4me" <l.ellis@...> wrote:
>
> Hi there! I'm new to this site but I was hoping to get some insight
as
> to what might have happened to my fish.
>
> I live in Southern Ontario and my pond is steep-sided to reduce
> predation. About 12x6 feet (In a kidney shape) and three feet deep
with
> lots of lilies to hide in. I have never lost more than a fish or
two
> in season that I'm aware of, and the fish winter beautifully. No
> floaters!
>
> On Tuesday morning I had about 20+ beautiful goldfish, some of
which
> I've had for six years. These were some pretty big fish. They were
very
> tame and some had names. (And, yes, I do know that's weird!)
>
> Wednesday evening I had none except for three tiny ones I eventualy
> scared out of the lilies. I can't for the life of me figure out
what
> could decimate that big a population. I have noisy dogs that
usually
> have the run of the yard during the day so racoons and cats avoid
my
> back yard.
>
> I'm in the city and other than squirrels and a groundhog (Not much
of a
> fish eater!) I see very little wildlife. I certainly haven't seen
> anything that could eat that many fish in such a short period of
time.
>
> I can't imagine anyone risking the dogs to climb a five foot locked
> fence and steal goldfish.
>
> I'm completely depressed and don't understand where ALL my fish
have
> gone. (Not sure what I'm going to tell my neices and nephews. They
> loved watching and playing with these guys. *SIGH*)
>
> Has this ever happened to anyone?
>






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24273 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!/The Great Blue Heron
Looking at the link Harry provided I can add that we had a blue heron clean
out one of our ponds in one day. He arrived one morning after we left for
work but was still around when we got home and ALL of our fish were gone.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24274 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
The 1st thing I would do is add some BLACK pond dye to hide the rest of your fish until you can get some protection set up. It does sound like herons or a bird.Using avery strong air pump will also make it harder for birds to swoop down and grab up your fish. Yuo may want to read this article and most likely it will give you a better idea of what's taking your fish. Sorry for your loss, Gail

http://www.richdeer3.com/site/1566246/page/924686
Wildlife Associated with Water Gardens



Gail Hopkins
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...


---------------------------------
Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24275 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
The manual for the rena canister filters says to make sure the filter is a
minimum of 24" (60cm) to a maximum of 55" (140cm) below the wtaer level of
the aquarium.
which canister did you go with.. I wouldn't of gone with an xp1 for a 75
gallon tank.

FilStar xP1Up to 45 Gallons250 GPHFilStar xP2Up to 75 Gallons300 GPHFilStar
xP3Up to 175 Gallons350 GPHFilStar xP4Up to 260 Gallons450 GPH
and it doesn't hurt to go with one above the recommended... maybe able to
purchase longer tubing...


On 9/30/07, barone922 <barone922@...> wrote:
>
> I am currently setting up a new 75 gallon tank. I initially purchased
> a RENA canister filter but I have to return it. The stand I purchased
> for the tank has a compartment that is only 14 1/2" tall. This
> prevented me from setting up the filter today. The input and output
> tubes were almost completely cinched closed from the lack of room in
> the cabinet.
>
> What other type of filter is recommended for a 75 gallon tank,
> preferably one that can be stowed under the tank in the cabinet?
>
> Donna
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24276 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
You are likely right and the fish were taken by a bird but I have never
seen a heron near my pond. I'm just amazed it could eat that many fish
since some of these were pretty big. I'm certain my frog is gone, too.
*SIGH*

The few little fish that are left won't come up for food, but that's
probably just as well. I will look for a guard heron becasue I can get
that set up very quickly and it probably will be a new enough pond
addition to fool any birds for a month or so until the fish hibernate.

I don't like the thought of obstructing the pond by netting but losing
six year old fish wasn't great either, so I'll get going on something.

Thanks for all the input!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24277 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
with a 5 gallon tank you might be able to go with
3 fancy guppies (1 male, 2 females)
1 dwarf gourami

or

1 pygmy sucker cat (*Otocinclus*)
3 platies...


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24278 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: New to this group; thinking about getting fish
If you go with guppies, go with all males as you won't have room for any
babies that might survive the constant breeding... but if you do go with
both sexes, then the 2 females to 1 male is the way to go to give the
females a little rest.

I don't see the original post on this email so I'm not sure what other
options were presented.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Joe Wilson
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 10:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New to this group; thinking about getting fish

with a 5 gallon tank you might be able to go with
3 fancy guppies (1 male, 2 females)
1 dwarf gourami

or

1 pygmy sucker cat (*Otocinclus*)
3 platies...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.2/1052 - Release Date: 10/5/2007
6:53 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24279 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Lighting question
I got my 55 gallon tank today (yay!) but the light I got with it is a
custom made thing (out of two pieces of crown moulding). The bulb says
on it "30T9 WW". Does this mean it's a T9 diameter? It's bigger around
than any aquarium light I've ever seen. How can I tell what diameter
bulb this fixture will accept?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24280 From: thats albert fishs pelvis! yow! Date: 10/6/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared!
I've seen both herons and kingfishers decimate a pond in minutes. Scarecrows will
sometimes work with herons, but for kingfishers, you have to keep a net on the pond until
they move on.
Amalthea

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "amorgan4me" <l.ellis@...> wrote:
>
> Hi there! I'm new to this site but I was hoping to get some insight as
> to what might have happened to my fish.
>
> I live in Southern Ontario and my pond is steep-sided to reduce
> predation. About 12x6 feet (In a kidney shape) and three feet deep with
> lots of lilies to hide in. I have never lost more than a fish or two
> in season that I'm aware of, and the fish winter beautifully. No
> floaters!
>
> On Tuesday morning I had about 20+ beautiful goldfish, some of which
> I've had for six years. These were some pretty big fish. They were very
> tame and some had names. (And, yes, I do know that's weird!)
>
> Wednesday evening I had none except for three tiny ones I eventualy
> scared out of the lilies. I can't for the life of me figure out what
> could decimate that big a population. I have noisy dogs that usually
> have the run of the yard during the day so racoons and cats avoid my
> back yard.
>
> I'm in the city and other than squirrels and a groundhog (Not much of a
> fish eater!) I see very little wildlife. I certainly haven't seen
> anything that could eat that many fish in such a short period of time.
>
> I can't imagine anyone risking the dogs to climb a five foot locked
> fence and steal goldfish.
>
> I'm completely depressed and don't understand where ALL my fish have
> gone. (Not sure what I'm going to tell my neices and nephews. They
> loved watching and playing with these guys. *SIGH*)
>
> Has this ever happened to anyone?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24281 From: Amalthea Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Be sure to keep moving it around. The herons notice when they're
always in one spot, and will come anyway if you don't.
Amalthea


I will look for a guard heron becasue I can get
that set up very quickly and it probably will be a new enough pond
addition to fool any birds for a month or so until the fish hibernate.




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24282 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: flourecent light size
I got my 55 gallon tank today (yay!) but the light I got with it is a
custom made thing (out of two pieces of crown moulding). The bulb says
on it "30T9 WW". Does this mean it's a T9 diameter? It's bigger around
than any aquarium light I've ever seen. How can I tell what diameter
bulb this fixture will accept?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24283 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: flourecent light size
A lot of times light makers will have a sticker somewhere on the fixture
saying what type of lights it can take. It might be hard to find a replacement
for T9's . what your light says is it is a 30 watt T9 light bulb and that the
color is warm white. If you plan on having just fish this would be fine if you
want live plants you need a different color spectrum than you have


In a message dated 10/7/2007 12:42:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
noahburge2b@... writes:




I got my 55 gallon tank today (yay!) but the light I got with it is a
custom made thing (out of two pieces of crown moulding). The bulb says
on it "30T9 WW". Does this mean it's a T9 diameter? It's bigger around
than any aquarium light I've ever seen. How can I tell what diameter
bulb this fixture will accept?







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24284 From: surot_swarovski2002 Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: aquarium hobbyists
I would like to ask permission from the MODS of this group to let me
post this message in this website. Thank you so much in advance.

Dear Fellow Hobbyists,

The Philippine Arowana and Luo Han Society welcomes all interested
aquarium hobbyists to join! PALHS was founded on August 18, 2002 and
is now the largest aquarium society in the Philippines. The society is
multi faceted with interests; from freshwater tropical fishes to
marine fishes. To know more about the history of PALHS and its mission
and vision, click ABOUT US!

WHY JOIN PALHS? There are many BENEFITS in becoming a PALHS member.
Some of these benefits are…
* Meet fellow hobbyists and experts who share their knowledge and
experience in the hobby;
* Discount at AFFILIATED LOCAL FISH STORES to members who produce the
current society membership ID. (This discount can quickly add up to
substantially more than the cost of your annual dues.);
* Enjoy EB (Eye Ball) meetings and presentations on interesting topics
related to fish keeping;
* Door prizes and raffles during meetings;
* Network with other members for information and hard-to-find fish;
* Enjoy member forum benefits (such as the buy and sell forum for
members, private forum, members' gallery, etc.);
* Find out where the best buys are, the latest fish import or breed,
equipment, technology, etc.;
* Free admission to all PALHS Events and Activities (shows, sports,
party, etc.).

QUALIFICATIONS to become a member
* Must be an aquarium hobbyist.
* Must accomplish a membership form.
* Submit 1"x 1" photo or 2" x 2" digital photo (150 dpi).
* Full payment of membership dues.
* Must abide by the Rules & Regulations of the society.
* Must be approved by a majority of the Board of Trustees

Memberships:
1) INDIVIDUAL : Php500/year

2) Pet shop owners, retailers, wholesalers, importers, commercial
traders can apply to become a Corporate Member for P1,500 a year.
Follow the same steps but make sure to tell us something about your
business. (Corporate members will have access to the buy and sell
forum for commercial traders - Sa Loob Ng Tindahan)
.
AQUAFIESTA
October 25-28, 2007 at Glorietta Edsa Mall
incorporating 1st ABA International Betta Competition

PALHS HOTLINE: (0922)UR-PALHS
"Give as much as you take or some day there won't be anything left..."

www.PALHS.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24285 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
A Dead Heron hanging by its feet nearby also is a good deterrent.
I would set a trap for that bird just because of the fish it already got.

Sam,

Amalthea wrote:
>
> Be sure to keep moving it around. The herons notice when they're
> always in one spot, and will come anyway if you don't.
> Amalthea
>
> I will look for a guard heron becasue I can get
> that set up very quickly and it probably will be a new enough pond
> addition to fool any birds for a month or so until the fish hibernate.__
>
> . 0 0 0 4px;} .replbq{margin:4}


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24286 From: Jim Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
Hi Everyone,

I was just observing the fish in my fish tank, and a question came to
mind: How do you know if they're healthy? This may sounds like a dumb
question, but I am still fairly new to fish keeping. A bit of
background: I have three Giant Danios and two orange Lyretail Mollies.
I have them in a 20 gallon tank. I perform routine PWCs. The water
parameters are nearly perfect, as I perform frequent checks with a
liquid master test kit. My fish are eating when I feed them and
swimming around actively, so they seem to be doing well. But, I was
wondering what to look for if they do become sick. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24287 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
I'd have to check but I'm pretty sure the city bylaws would get me in
some pretty hot water if I trapped or displayed a heron.

I've been watching the pond, it's about 15 feet from my patio door, and
haven't seen anything so far.

I'm off to do some kingfisher research. I have seen them in the woods
around the city but not hanging out in my yard that I've noticed. If
they turn out to be a more likely culprit then I guess a net will be
the only way to go.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> A Dead Heron hanging by its feet nearby also is a good deterrent.
> I would set a trap for that bird just because of the fish it already
got.
>
> Sam,
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24288 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
You seem to be observing normal behavior right now. Deviation from that
behavior would be a clue that there is something wrong somewhere. Fins
should be held away from the body, but don't freak out right away if you
see what appears to be clamping of fins. Wait a while to see if this
posture is maintained.

If the fish stays away from the others, hovering in a corner or hiding
among the plants and aquascaping materials, there may be something
wrong.

If the fish are flashing, rubbing against the substrate or other objects
in the aquarium, there is a problem.

Of course any sores, cysts, fungus on the body or fins is a problem that
should be attended to right away. Torn or ragged fins can be a sign of
aggression or, possibly, bad water quality. Missing scales are to be
looked for and the cause investigated. There are a number of reasons for
missing scales, from aggression to jagged edges on a decoration.

I don't know if this is still a problem, but back in the dark ages, many
years ago, mollies, especially the blacks and sailfins, would suffer
from the shimmies. This was normally temperature related, and raising
the temperature and adding salt was the cure, unless it had progressed
too far. I haven't heard of this problem for years, so the hybrids
available today may not be susceptible to this ailment.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2007 6:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How do you know if your fish are healthy?

Hi Everyone,

I was just observing the fish in my fish tank, and a question came to
mind: How do you know if they're healthy? This may sounds like a dumb
question, but I am still fairly new to fish keeping. A bit of
background: I have three Giant Danios and two orange Lyretail Mollies.
I have them in a 20 gallon tank. I perform routine PWCs. The water
parameters are nearly perfect, as I perform frequent checks with a
liquid master test kit. My fish are eating when I feed them and
swimming around actively, so they seem to be doing well. But, I was
wondering what to look for if they do become sick. Thanks!

- Jim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24289 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: How do you know if your fish are healthy?
Hi Jim,

I am by no mean an expert in fish issues of health. But there are a
number of things that can tell you
that a fish is doing well. A healthy fish is one that has a clear
complexion meaning no white spots but also
one of my first items to notice is the dorsal fin or tail. If it is full
and long and clear and uniform then things must be
going well. I have a pond fish that started out as a feeder and is now a
4 or 5 pound beauty with a long clear wavy tail.
The top fin should also be full with no parts missing. Fish that are
sick or have defects to them are often times deformed in
ways that make it clear they are not long for the tank. As fish in a
tank lack cross breading due to environmental
limitations, there are going to be defects coming up due to genetic
reasons that we will not be able to fight.
Of course older fish will grow sick and die no matter how well you care
for them but the overall lot of fish in your
tank should look healthy and live their life cycles well.
I am no expert but have had fish since high school which has been since
1974. Presently I have two 55 gal and one
back yard pond of 17X10 feet and 4 foot deep in middle. I have too many
fish in it- looking for good ponds in the
Chicago area that needs fish. No cost.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.


Jim wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I was just observing the fish in my fish tank, and a question came to
> mind: How do you know if they're healthy? This may sounds like a dumb
> question, but I am still fairly new to fish keeping. A bit of
> background: I have three Giant Danios and two orange Lyretail Mollies.
> I have them in a 20 gallon tank. I perform routine PWCs. The water
> parameters are nearly perfect, as I perform frequent checks with a
> liquid master test kit. My fish are eating when I feed them and
> swimming around actively, so they seem to be doing well. But, I was
> wondering what to look for if they do become sick. Thanks!
>
> - Jim
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24290 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
Wouldn't the temp being so high kill off the benificial bacteria from the
filter from the 10 gallon tank when the heater was jacked up?

On 9/30/07, Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
>
> 82 seems a bit high to me, but if that is what you want, let the tank
> cool down to about 80, then turn up the thermostat on the heater just
> until the indicator light comes on. This should bring your temperature
> to just above 80. Then, just nudge the control to bring on the indicator
> light until you reach your desired 82. It would be best to check the
> temperature several times during the day and adjust just once a day
> until you reach the desired temperature.
>
> Just adding old filter material to your filter does not cycle your tank.
> You need to provide the bacteria contained in the old medium with some
> ammonia to process. If you do not, the bacteria will either hibernate or
> die, and it will take some time, in any case, to get a fully functional
> cycle. The addition of the old media will help reduce the length of time
> it takes to establish the cycle, however.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:
> AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of J & J
> Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:50 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New planted tank temperature issues... help!
>
> Hi all, new to the group and I really could someone else's opinion.
>
> I just bought and set up a new 55 gal freshwater tank. Let the
> filter run for 2 days with some old filter medium from my other 10
> gal tank to help seed it with the "good" bacteria.
>
> Last night I bought a bunch of new plants for the tank and brought
> them home. I also purchased a new power strip because the one I had
> laying around the house wasn't working. Went home, plugged the
> heater in, mixed laterite with my gravel, and then set about planting
> the tank.
>
> This morning I woke up and an the tank was WAY too hot, around 88
> degrees, so I turned the heater down and went to work. Or so I
> thought... (The heater came with the tank and a whole bunch of other
> gear, bought it used on Craigslist and WOW it was a great deal, all
> top of the line stuff.)
>
> I came home from work 8 hours later to discover that I had turned the
> heat UP (geeze!!) because I am a retard and didn't look closely at
> the heater to accurately assess how to operate it. Needless to say,
> my tank was SO hot that the thermometer on the side of it was
> completely black... so must have been well over 90/95 degrees as that
> is the top "box" on the strip. The tank and water were warm, very
> very warm... bathwater warm. YIKES!
>
> So I turned the heater all the way down to low, turned off the light,
> and opened the hood so the water could cool down slowly. Now it
> appears that my tank is back in the 90 degree box. (Yes, I am putting
> my real thermometer in right now to get an accurate reading!)
>
> What should I do now? Where should I keep the temp on the tank? I was
> going for 82 since that has worked really well in my 10 gal, but any
> suggestions? I'm def. new to highly planted tanks, I only have a
> couple of apogenons in my other one. Also, do you think that the
> crazy temperature flux stressed my plants too much? Anything I should
> do for them at this point to ease their suffering besides letting the
> tank cool off and trying to stabilize the temp?
>
> Thanks for your help, sorry the post is so long!
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24291 From: kstringer1974 Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Re: recommendations on a filter for a 75G tank
I guess I'm a little confused about the size of the stand. Is this a
very low lying tank? I don't think I've seen a stand that's only a
little over a foot high for a tank that size before. With a stand
that only has that much vertical clearance I would suggest going with
a HOB filter instead of a canister. I'm a huge fan of the Rena series
and have two of them on my 180G tank but they definately need some
room or you will indeed cinch the tubing.
I don't think there's another canister filter you can get for that
size of a tank without having the same problem.

Cheers,
Kevin R. Stringer


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Wilson" <wilson.joe@...>
wrote:
>
> The manual for the rena canister filters says to make sure the
filter is a
> minimum of 24" (60cm) to a maximum of 55" (140cm) below the wtaer
level of
> the aquarium.
> which canister did you go with.. I wouldn't of gone with an xp1 for
a 75
> gallon tank.
>
> FilStar xP1Up to 45 Gallons250 GPHFilStar xP2Up to 75 Gallons300
GPHFilStar
> xP3Up to 175 Gallons350 GPHFilStar xP4Up to 260 Gallons450 GPH
> and it doesn't hurt to go with one above the recommended... maybe
able to
> purchase longer tubing...
>
>
> On 9/30/07, barone922 <barone922@...> wrote:
> >
> > I am currently setting up a new 75 gallon tank. I initially
purchased
> > a RENA canister filter but I have to return it. The stand I
purchased
> > for the tank has a compartment that is only 14 1/2" tall. This
> > prevented me from setting up the filter today. The input and
output
> > tubes were almost completely cinched closed from the lack of room
in
> > the cabinet.
> >
> > What other type of filter is recommended for a 75 gallon tank,
> > preferably one that can be stowed under the tank in the cabinet?
> >
> > Donna
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24292 From: William Date: 10/7/2007
Subject: Thanks for the tips re: missing fish
Herons are migratory birds and under the federal laws that concern
migratory birds. Do not trap or kill any of them unless you wish to
spent time behind bars (you will not be able to even see your pond
then). That is why there are so many "scare" things out there because
it is illegal to trap or kill them.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Sam Palermo <skywavebe@...> wrote:
>
> A Dead Heron hanging by its feet nearby also is a good deterrent.
> I would set a trap for that bird just because of the fish it
already got.
>
> Sam,
>
> Amalthea wrote:
> >
> > Be sure to keep moving it around. The herons notice when they're
> > always in one spot, and will come anyway if you don't.
> > Amalthea
> >
> > I will look for a guard heron becasue I can get
> > that set up very quickly and it probably will be a new enough pond
> > addition to fool any birds for a month or so until the fish
hibernate.__
> >
> > . 0 0 0 4px;} .replbq{margin:4}
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24293 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/8/2007
Subject: Re: New planted tank temperature issues... help!
No, not in the least. While 82o (F) may be somewhat high for some of
our cooler-temperature loving tropicals (Neons, White Clouds, etc.)
and while I believe that this temperature is unnecessarily high for
the majority of long-term maintenance of most tropical aquarium fish,
82o cannot be considered as being "jacked up" in terms that its too
high for beneficial bacteria to survive when some tropical fish
(Discus, Uaru, etc.) require and are normally maintained at 86o F,
still employing the benefits of nitrifying bacteria in a nitrogen
cycle.

It is well known that many species of bacteria, notably pathogens,
can survive at far higher temperatures and may require several
minutes of boiling (at 212o F -- sea level) to kill them off.
Likewise, nitrifying bacteria have a wide range of temperature
tolerance, and while they thrive best at an optimum temperature
between 25o C (77o F) and 35o C (95o F), they have an active wide
range of between 49o F and 150o F and are usually stored dormant in
your kitchen frig at 38oF or so, if you are to keep BioSpira on
hand. Their survival in the higher extremes of their temperature
range is dictated by the amount of dissolved oxygen passing over
them. Ray


From AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Wilson" <wilson.joe@...> wrote:
>
> Wouldn't the temp being so high kill off the benificial bacteria
from the
> filter from the 10 gallon tank when the heater was jacked up?
>

> On 9/30/07, Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
> >
> > 82 seems a bit high to me, but if that is what you want, let
the tank
> > cool down to about 80, then turn up the thermostat on the heater
just
> > until the indicator light comes on. This should bring your
temperature
> > to just above 80. Then, just nudge the control to bring on the
indicator
> > light until you reach your desired 82. It would be best to check
the
> > temperature several times during the day and adjust just once a
day
> > until you reach the desired temperature.
> >
> > Just adding old filter material to your filter does not cycle
your tank.
> > You need to provide the bacteria contained in the old medium with
some
> > ammonia to process. If you do not, the bacteria will either
hibernate or
> > die, and it will take some time, in any case, to get a fully
functional
> > cycle. The addition of the old media will help reduce the length
of time
> > it takes to establish the cycle, however.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:
> > AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>]
> > On Behalf Of J & J
> > Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 12:50 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New planted tank temperature issues...
help!
> >
> > Hi all, new to the group and I really could someone else's
opinion.
> >
> > I just bought and set up a new 55 gal freshwater tank. Let the
> > filter run for 2 days with some old filter medium from my other 10
> > gal tank to help seed it with the "good" bacteria.
> >
> > Last night I bought a bunch of new plants for the tank and brought
> > them home. I also purchased a new power strip because the one I
had
> > laying around the house wasn't working. Went home, plugged the
> > heater in, mixed laterite with my gravel, and then set about
planting
> > the tank.
> >
> > This morning I woke up and an the tank was WAY too hot, around 88
> > degrees, so I turned the heater down and went to work. Or so I
> > thought... (The heater came with the tank and a whole bunch of
other
> > gear, bought it used on Craigslist and WOW it was a great deal,
all
> > top of the line stuff.)
> >
> > I came home from work 8 hours later to discover that I had turned
the
> > heat UP (geeze!!) because I am a retard and didn't look closely at
> > the heater to accurately assess how to operate it. Needless to
say,
> > my tank was SO hot that the thermometer on the side of it was
> > completely black... so must have been well over 90/95 degrees as
that
> > is the top "box" on the strip. The tank and water were warm, very
> > very warm... bathwater warm. YIKES!
> >
> > So I turned the heater all the way down to low, turned off the
light,
> > and opened the hood so the water could cool down slowly. Now it
> > appears that my tank is back in the 90 degree box. (Yes, I am
putting
> > my real thermometer in right now to get an accurate reading!)
> >
> > What should I do now? Where should I keep the temp on the tank? I
was
> > going for 82 since that has worked really well in my 10 gal, but
any
> > suggestions? I'm def. new to highly planted tanks, I only have a
> > couple of apogenons in my other one. Also, do you think that the
> > crazy temperature flux stressed my plants too much? Anything I
should
> > do for them at this point to ease their suffering besides letting
the
> > tank cool off and trying to stabilize the temp?
> >
> > Thanks for your help, sorry the post is so long!
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24294 From: muskie4817 Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Brackish tank
I am new to the group and currently have a 40 gallon freshwater tank.
I had a disease wipe out all of my fish except my sailfin pleco. The
tank is currently being overrun with small snails. I went to the pet
store and asked what to do and they sold me 2 horseface loaches. They
said they would eat the snails. I did a half tank water change and
replaced the filters. The loaches have been in the tank for about 4
days but the snails do not seem to be going away. Pretty much the
opposite. While at the pet store, I noticed they had figure 8 puffers
and the lady said they were brackish water fish. I did research and
saw they would probably be perfect for my snails. My question is what
do I need to do to convert over to a brackish water tank? My current
ph is 7.0 and the hardness is around 8-10. Thanks for the help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24295 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Brackish tank
The Brackish environment will be harmful to the pleco.  They come from a salt free environment.

I am not familiar with all the loaches of the world but my guess is they will not do so well in a brackish brackish environment as well.

I believe puffers "generally" tend to nip other fishes, removing fins and sometimes to the point of killing them.  So even if the other fish survive their new salty environment they "Might" not survive the puffer.  From what I have heard many puffers to do not get along with their own species, but there are exceptions.

This is just my opinion.  If you switch to brackish water to add a puffer to rid yourelf of snails you are pretty much switching the fish you will be keeping to a single puffer in a tank.  Again there are exceptions.  Hopefully sopmeone will come along with a solution to the snail problem.

My two cents.

Mike



I am new to the group and currently have a 40 gallon freshwater tank.
I had a disease wipe out all of my fish except my sailfin pleco. The
tank is currently being overrun with small snails. I went to the pet
store and asked what to do and they sold me 2 horseface loaches. They
said they would eat the snails. I did a half tank water change and
replaced the filters. The loaches have been in the tank for about 4
days but the snails do not seem to be going away. Pretty much the
opposite. While at the pet store, I noticed they had figure 8 puffers
and the lady said they were brackish water fish. I did research and
saw they would probably be perfect for my snails. My question is what
do I need to do to convert over to a brackish water tank? My current
ph is 7.0 and the hardness is around 8-10. Thanks for the help.



-----Original Message-----
From: muskie4817 <muskie4817@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 9:25 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brackish tank






I am new to the group and currently have a 40 gallon freshwater tank.
I had a disease wipe out all of my fish except my sailfin pleco. The
tank is currently being overrun with small snails. I went to the pet
store and asked what to do and they sold me 2 horseface loaches. They
said they would eat the snails. I did a half tank water change and
replaced the filters. The loaches have been in the tank for about 4
days but the snails do not seem to be going away. Pretty much the
opposite. While at the pet store, I noticed they had figure 8 puffers
and the lady said they were brackish water fish. I did research and
saw they would probably be perfect for my snails. My question is what
do I need to do to convert over to a brackish water tank? My current
ph is 7.0 and the hardness is around 8-10. Thanks for the help.





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24296 From: mvsoap Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Hello All-

Im very new to Saltwater Fish and yesterday I finally bought a 75
gallon fish tank, Jena xp3 filter, a Sea Clone 100 protein skimmer, a
bucket of Instant Ocean, hydrometer, digital thermometer, saltwater
master tester, 3-20lbs bags of live sand, 1-15lb bag of Aragonite,
and a 20lb bag of a fine beach-type sand by caribsea, and a stand to
put it all on. Oh, 2 light bulbs a Power-Glo and a Life Glo 2. I
think I need to bring the Life Glo2 back. I got a little excite...

I need more sand but am not sure how much would be good for 5 inches.
Is there a good place to get bulk sand with reasonable shipping? Some
place or sand I want to avoid? I read southsand at home depot or
lowes is ok to use, true? Is there anything else I am forgetting? I
haven't added water or sand yet.

I will take any and all advice offered on setting my tank up to avoid
bad experiences and death. Is there a rule of thumb as to how many
fishes can go into a tank, what is a ok amount for a 75 gallon tank.
Do I need a separate tank to cure rock ir to acclimate new fish?
Should I add live rock first before adding fish after the nitrate
level has fallen off? What kind of heater should I get? Any
recommendations for a backup filter or pump in the event of a power
failure? Ideas on how to keep the tank filtering itself as naturally
and efficiently as possible? Will the filter create enough of a
current or will I need to add a water pump to create a current? How
often do you cycle a tank?

Fish I like: I haven't established a particular taste yet? I do like
Blennies and Jawfish.

I realized I asked a ton of questions, and appreciate any and all
advice any one is willing to offer.

Thanks,
Jodie in NY
French Bulldog lover and new Saltwater Aquarium enthusiast.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24297 From: Joe Wilson Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
I might be able to answer one of your questions pertaining to how much sand
you will need for 5 inches.. here is an online calculator..
http://www.aquariumlife.net/subcalc.asp


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24298 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/9/2007
Subject: Re: Brackish tank
While some loaches are good for snail control, not all of them are. I have not known horseface loaches to be snail eaters, and while I kept them, they spent most of the time in the substrate with only the eyes showing. You could see their movement under the substrate as it rose and fell a they went by.

Turning your tank into a brackish aquarium may well take care of the snail population without the addition of the puffers. If you want to use fish to remove the snails, or at least keep the population under some sort of control, try a few clown loaches, if you want to stay within the loach type fishes, or, perhaps, some of the larger gouramis.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of muskie4817
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brackish tank

I am new to the group and currently have a 40 gallon freshwater tank.
I had a disease wipe out all of my fish except my sailfin pleco. The
tank is currently being overrun with small snails. I went to the pet
store and asked what to do and they sold me 2 horseface loaches. They
said they would eat the snails. I did a half tank water change and
replaced the filters. The loaches have been in the tank for about 4
days but the snails do not seem to be going away. Pretty much the
opposite. While at the pet store, I noticed they had figure 8 puffers
and the lady said they were brackish water fish. I did research and
saw they would probably be perfect for my snails. My question is what
do I need to do to convert over to a brackish water tank? My current
ph is 7.0 and the hardness is around 8-10. Thanks for the help.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24299 From: Antony Dalton Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Welcome to the fun! I'm a newbie with a recently up and running 150 gallon
tank. Yes I got a little carried away. A couple things I hadn't thought
of: Where are you going to get your water? Tap water is generally a no-no,
even if you dechlorinate and "condition" it. It's full of phosphates, heavy
metals, and other stuff you don't want your fish swimming in. I realized I
was going to be doing 40 gallon water changes several times a month and went
out and got an RO filter system (along with two 40 gallon trash cans and a
transfer pump). I would use the aragonite from your LFS for your extra
sand. Get the wrong kind and you will have a tank full of phosphate and
cilica.



Cure your live rock in the tank before adding anything else. The dead and
dying stuff on the rocks will start the ammonia cycle. Let it run until you
have 0 Ammonia and Nitrite. Mine took about two weeks, it really will drop
to 0. Then you can start adding some fish! I have four green Chromis, a
beautiful Royal Gramma, and, of course, a Percula clownfish for my daughter.
I now have my sights set on an angel. The best advice I've been given is to
take your time.



Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.



Good luck!

Antony



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24300 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Antony,

I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter that
converts 12 volt to 110.

A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now that
I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even though I have
that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as they are freshwater
and I run a single air pump for the whole room and each tank only has one or
two sponge filters in each tank.

Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car
battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the air pump in my
fish room. when the battery gets low I will either switch it to another car
or unhook it and start the car and then re attach it to the battery once the
car is running.

I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to be
safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.

Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be used to
power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is fine it just keeps
the battery charged up. That way was a bit more than I can afford.

Mike

In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
AV8RSailor@... writes:

Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.

Good luck!

Antony






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24301 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
I use UPS (Uninterruptable Power Supplies) used for computer systems and put
one on each tank for the air pump and filters. These will "filter" your
electricity so your motors last longer but also keep everything running
smooth for an hour or so, during brown-outs, temporary power failures caused
by storms, etc.

For Hurricane Katrina, when I had no power for 14 days, I would recharge the
UPS on my friends power inverter and then run my filters and air pump for 5
minutes every hour which kept the N-bacteria alive and all of my fish
survived also. When I did not have the UPS, when my friend wasn't around
for more than a day, I also did manual water circulation/filtration with my
HOB's by dipping a cup into the water and pouring one 32 oz. cup (per gallon
of tank volume) into the HOB reservoir. This means 10 cups for the 10G
every hour, 20 cups for the 20G and 65 cups for the 65G every hour but
usually I had the UPS charged up daily. At that time, I only had one UPS
but now I have three so I'm in better shape for the next "Big One" that hits
here. I'll also be buying a generator since the prices are dropping
dramatically with no major hurricanes since Katrina. The 12V power inverter
is also good but if your car is under water, as mine was after Katrina, it
wouldn't have done much good. The generator and lots of gas is the best
bet.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 8:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer


Antony,

I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter that
converts 12 volt to 110.

A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now that
I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even though I have
that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as they are freshwater
and I run a single air pump for the whole room and each tank only has one or
two sponge filters in each tank.

Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car
battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the air
pump in my fish room. when the battery gets low I will either switch it to
another car or unhook it and start the car and then re attach it to the
battery once the car is running.

I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to be
safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.

Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be used to
power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is fine it just
keeps the battery charged up. That way was a bit more than I can afford.

Mike

In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
AV8RSailor@... <mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net> writes:

Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.

Good luck!

Antony


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.6/1060 - Release Date: 10/9/2007
4:43 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24302 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/10/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Hi Lenny,

Fortunately I am not in an area known for heavy hurricane activity. However
anything can happen. We do get reports of a rare water spout and those were
not recorded until quite recently. We do get earthquakes though. I would like
to have a UPS but a large one for my needs are more than I can afford right
now. If a flood should occur in my area I will put the car battery on the roof
;)

Earlier this year I wanted to assemble a solar power setup to generate
electricity for storing power in a battery for the inverter for the fish room.
However as a renter I did not think it prudent to climb around on the roof and
drill it full of holes. Electricity from the utility is cheaper than buying a
solar power setup but I wanted to experiment with Solar on a small scale.
Also my wife was complaining about the electric bill last year and I thought if
I had a separate power source she could not get on my case about the bill.
Looked into wind power but not enough wind to run a wind generator with any
consistency.

I will probably be more practical like yourself and buy a generator after I
buy a home.

Mike

In a message dated 10/10/2007 7:19:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

The 12V power inverter
is also good but if your car is under water, as mine was after Katrina, it
wouldn't have done much good. The generator and lots of gas is the best
bet.

Lenny Vasbinder




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24304 From: graphics & Fish Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Lighting Question
I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug in
digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to leave
the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is good but
was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights running. the
fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it so it is only 65
watts on during the day and not 130 .


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24305 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Lighting Question
I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24307 From: Bill Lane Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: newest newbie
Hi All,

I just joined early this morning. My Pop had freshwater aquariums before I was born. His best story was that he finally got a breeding pair of angel fish. He came home 1 day to a malfunctioning heater. The water was very hot and killed the entire breeding tank. (:<)

I took it up for a while when I was about 11. I was very into it for a few years even though I only had a ten gallon tank. Angels and Hatchet fish were my favorite.

I am now 45. I have been looking form something that my wife could become interested in. she watches the Food Network all weekend long. There is not much we can do for pets in our apartment. I had previously suggested fish but it took a while to materialize. I have a TON of hobbies, mostly which are or can be connected to trains and model railroading.

We now have 2) 2 gallon tanks and 3 fish. (Beta, Hatchet and Tetra) My wife has been "slightly" obsessed thinking that our Beta is sick (was bought that way as well), so the 2nd "hospital' tank was bought. Now with the internet everything information wise is available whenever it is needed. She is the consummate on line researching. In 1 week she zoomed past me on my limited 32 year old fish knowledge. We now have over $100.00 of hardware and supplies for $10.00 in fish. We have 2 Petsmart and 1 Petco within 1 mile of each other!

I have a few questions...

A larger tank purchase in the 40-75 gallon range is eminent, possibly in the next week or so. I am tired of changing the cloudy water every 2-4 days.

I had just an under-gravel filter back in the day with my 10 gallon. I
thought it did a good job from what I can remember. Should I get an
under-gravel AND an external filter? Was there a Dyna-Flow filter back then?
I think that is what I wanted but never got. What is a good reasonably
priced external filter that would have replacement supplies in Petsmart etc?

Is buying a "pre-owned" tank OK? My wife has this thing about USED stuff. She is looking at new 10-20 gallon tanks. I want bigger. I want that relaxing graceful moving picture of the fish that everyone here understands. I am not getting that in only 10 gallons! For almost the same $$ as a new 20 gallon I can get what I want on eBay. I know that cleaners are a no no inside the tank. How do you prep a used tank? I guess I would have to make sure it was a fish tank in its last usage. Is buying a previous salt water tank for freshwater use OK?

If you have a nice condition 40-75 gallon tank and stand (or more) for sale please contact me ASAP. Send a photo or 2 with your reply if possible. I will pick up to about 20 miles from where I live. (Deptford NJ 08096) The deal would need to be done in the next week or so as I am starting school in 2 weeks.

That outta get me started. Please reply directly to HYPERLINK
"mailto:bill@..."bill@... if you would be so kind to answer a few of my questions. You can check out my ever growing website as well. I guess I will be adding fish to the "Other Interests" page at some point!

Thank You,
Bill Lane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24308 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Where are you going to get your water? I dunno? I found a filter at
DF&S, that will filter my water. TY
I read that if you have 4-6 inches of sand in the tank, you don't have
to change the water weekly, is this accurate?
I'm learning this isn't an over night process :(, but I'm sure it will
be worth the wait.

Jodie


Antony Dalton wrote:
>
> Welcome to the fun! I'm a newbie with a recently up and running 150 gallon
> tank. Yes I got a little carried away. A couple things I hadn't thought
> of: Where are you going to get your water? Tap water is generally a no-no,
> even if you dechlorinate and "condition" it. It's full of phosphates,
> heavy
> metals, and other stuff you don't want your fish swimming in. I realized I
> was going to be doing 40 gallon water changes several times a month
> and went
> out and got an RO filter system (along with two 40 gallon trash cans and a
> transfer pump). I would use the aragonite from your LFS for your extra
> sand. Get the wrong kind and you will have a tank full of phosphate and
> cilica.
>
> Cure your live rock in the tank before adding anything else. The dead and
> dying stuff on the rocks will start the ammonia cycle. Let it run
> until you
> have 0 Ammonia and Nitrite. Mine took about two weeks, it really will drop
> to 0. Then you can start adding some fish! I have four green Chromis, a
> beautiful Royal Gramma, and, of course, a Percula clownfish for my
> daughter.
> I now have my sights set on an angel. The best advice I've been given
> is to
> take your time.
>
> Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
> going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Antony
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24309 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
I thought about the UPS, but they can be very costly. I saw something at
Petsmart and I don't recall what it is called, but you plug it into the
wall socket, and when it senses a power failure, it kicks in using
batteries. It just basically blows air bubbles into the tank. Perhaps
someone knows what it is.

Jodie

Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Antony,
>
> I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter that
> converts 12 volt to 110.
>
> A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now
> that
> I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even though I
> have
> that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as they are
> freshwater
> and I run a single air pump for the whole room and each tank only has
> one or
> two sponge filters in each tank.
>
> Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car
> battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the
> air pump in my
> fish room. when the battery gets low I will either switch it to
> another car
> or unhook it and start the car and then re attach it to the battery
> once the
> car is running.
>
> I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to be
> safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.
>
> Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be
> used to
> power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is fine it
> just keeps
> the battery charged up. That way was a bit more than I can afford.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> AV8RSailor@... <mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net> writes:
>
> Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
> going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Antony
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com <http://www.aol.com>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24310 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
Would the battery back ups that are used by computers be ok ? would be less
than a generator I would think
something like this ?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details
asp?EdpNo=1819060&CatId=234

Its a ups but an affordable one

Vinni

-------Original Message-------

From: Frog Dog
Date: 10/11/2007 4:40:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer

I thought about the UPS, but they can be very costly. I saw something at
Petsmart and I don't recall what it is called, but you plug it into the
wall socket, and when it senses a power failure, it kicks in using
batteries. It just basically blows air bubbles into the tank. Perhaps
someone knows what it is.

Jodie

Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Antony,
>
> I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter that
> converts 12 volt to 110.
>
> A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now
> that
> I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even though I
> have
> that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as they are
> freshwater
> and I run a single air pump for the whole room and each tank only has
> one or
> two sponge filters in each tank.
>
> Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car
> battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the
> air pump in my
> fish room. when the battery gets low I will either switch it to
> another car
> or unhook it and start the car and then re attach it to the battery
> once the
> car is running.
>
> I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to be
> safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.
>
> Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be
> used to
> power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is fine it
> just keeps
> the battery charged up. That way was a bit more than I can afford.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> AV8RSailor@... <mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net> writes:
>
> Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short of
> going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Antony
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
> http://www.aol.com <http://www.aol.com>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24311 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2
separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to
consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto
the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate
morning and evening.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug
in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to
leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is
good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights
running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it
so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24312 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Thanks Steve
http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_formosa_ss_jd2.html
thats the fixture i have.
There are 2 seperate banks (2 plugs one for each bulb) however I only have
em plugged into one timer . I had a decent plug in timer that could simulate
the day evening programs but it went bad on me . so much for decent huh ?
Ill go for the 10 .

thanks again

Vinni



-------Original Message-------

From: Steve Szabo
Date: 10/11/2007 6:50:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2
separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to
consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto
the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate
morning and evening.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug
in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to
leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is
good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights
running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it
so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24313 From: Vinni Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
oops wrong one this one is the one i have 2 x 65

http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_formosa_dx.html

-------Original Message-------

From: Steve Szabo
Date: 10/11/2007 6:50:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2
separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to
consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto
the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate
morning and evening.

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug
in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to
leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is
good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights
running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it
so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24314 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
I use APC brand UPS computer back ups mainly because of the price but they
seem to last a long time also. My first one is over 3 years old and still
works fine. I also have one on my entertainment center so my dvr, vcr's,
tv, etc. don't lose the time each time there is a brown out or power outage.
I catch them on sale at my local Office Depot with a rebate for around
$30.00 for the same size as shown in your link. To make the link work, I
copy/pasted the asp?... like this ...details.asp?...

The thing at PetsMart that pumps air might be OK to keep the fish from
suffering O2 deprivation but if your filter is out for more than an hour or
so, the N-bacteria starts to die off and if it's off for more than a few
hours, the water in the reservoir can become poisonous and then if it kicks
back on, it pumps that poisonous water into your tank. If you ever come
home and find out your power was out for more than an hour, do a 50% PWC and
filter maintenance to clean the dead/decaying stuff off the filter media.

The UPS' that will run a computer for an hour will run your filter system
for several hours.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 4:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer

Would the battery back ups that are used by computers be ok ? would be less
than a generator I would think something like this ?

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details
<http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details>
asp?EdpNo=1819060&CatId=234

Its a ups but an affordable one

Vinni

-------Original Message-------

From: Frog Dog
Date: 10/11/2007 4:40:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer

I thought about the UPS, but they can be very costly. I saw something at
Petsmart and I don't recall what it is called, but you plug it into the wall
socket, and when it senses a power failure, it kicks in using batteries. It
just basically blows air bubbles into the tank. Perhaps someone knows what
it is.

Jodie

Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Antony,
>
> I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter
> that converts 12 volt to 110.
>
> A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now
> that I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even
> though I have that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as
> they are freshwater and I run a single air pump for the whole room and
> each tank only has one or two sponge filters in each tank.
>
> Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car
> battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the
> air pump in my fish room. when the battery gets low I will either
> switch it to another car or unhook it and start the car and then re
> attach it to the battery once the car is running.
>
> I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to
> be safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.
>
> Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be
> used to power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is
> fine it just keeps the battery charged up. That way was a bit more
> than I can afford.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> AV8RSailor@... <mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net>
<mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net> writes:
>
> Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short
> of going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Antony
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.7/1062 - Release Date: 10/10/2007
5:11 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24315 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer
I do not know anything about that brand, so I cannot comment directly on
it. It certainly is inexpensive, maybe even cheap. One of the questions
you might want to ask yourself is if the battery is replaceable or not.
If it is not, this means you will be in the market for another one a few
years down the road.

You are fortunate with this listing as it not only gives the VA rating,
but the watt rating as well. VA and watts are not interchangeable. Many
UPSs are rated in VA and they have the capability of support about 60%
of the wattage as VA. Like Lenny, I have an APC UPS here in the office
(room in the house) for my computers. APC is a good brand as is
Tripp-Lite. They are more expensive than some you will see out there,
but they are worth the extra expense. The batteries will last 3-4 years,
depending on usage, a lot of power outages, a shorter life, and they can
be easily replaced.

When you use one with your aquarium, use it just for your filter(s) and
heater(s). Lights are not important and can be left off the UPS. If you
really need an air pump on the tank, put that on the UPS as well. Add up
your wattages and oversize the unit for longer power during an outage.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 5:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer

Would the battery back ups that are used by computers be ok ? would be
less
than a generator I would think

something like this ?



http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?Edp
No=1819060&CatId=234




Its a ups but an affordable one



Vinni



-------Original Message-------



From: Frog Dog

Date: 10/11/2007 4:40:58 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re:Extremely New Saltfish Endeavorer



I thought about the UPS, but they can be very costly. I saw something at


Petsmart and I don't recall what it is called, but you plug it into the

wall socket, and when it senses a power failure, it kicks in using

batteries. It just basically blows air bubbles into the tank. Perhaps

someone knows what it is.



Jodie



Deenerz@... wrote:

>

>

> Antony,

>

> I have not tested it yet, but I recently purchased a power inverter
that

> converts 12 volt to 110.

>

> A few years ago we had some rolling black outs here in California. Now


> that

> I have around 30 tanks running I also fear losing power. Even though I


> have

> that many tanks they do not need that much equipment as they are

> freshwater

> and I run a single air pump for the whole room and each tank only has

> one or

> two sponge filters in each tank.

>

> Should the need arise I will hook up the power inverter to my car

> battery(keep the battery out of the house) and run a power cord to the


> air pump in my

> fish room. when the battery gets low I will either switch it to

> another car

> or unhook it and start the car and then re attach it to the battery

> once the

> car is running.

>

> I bought a "True sine" or "Pure Sine" inverter as they are supposed to
be

> safer for electronics and sensitive equipment.

>

> Another option is to use an Uninterrupted power supply that can be

> used to

> power your setup when the power goes out, when the power is fine it

> just keeps

> the battery charged up. That way was a bit more than I can afford.

>

> Mike

>

> In a message dated 10/10/2007 6:41:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,

> AV8RSailor@... <mailto:AV8RSailor%40verizon.net> writes:

>

> Being in Florida, I live in fear of a prolonged power failure. Short
of

> going out and buying a generator, I'm not sure I have a solution.

>

> Good luck!

>

> Antony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24316 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
It looks like you can use two times for the effect I was explaining,
since it does have two power cords.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

oops wrong one this one is the one i have 2 x 65



http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_formosa_dx.html



-------Original Message-------



From: Steve Szabo

Date: 10/11/2007 6:50:14 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2

separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to

consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto

the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate

morning and evening.



\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Vinni

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug

in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to

leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is

good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights

running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it

so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24317 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/11/2007
Subject: Re: newest newbie
Tell your wife, that when shopping at PetsMart, always check their online
prices first and print the page. The local store will match the online
price for identical items in stock. I save 25-50% off the shelf price this
way. You have to "ask" the cashier for this unadvertised pricing program.

While a 2G tank would be an OK tank for a single Betta, it's not enough for
most any other fish which is why you are having water quality issues. I
think folks should set up at least a 5-10G for a Betta home and then they
could have an apple snail or other compatible tank mate and some nice plants
to make a nice home with a filter and heater, rather than the smaller tanks
which are much harder to filter and find a heater for.

Larger tanks are much easier to maintain and are much healthier for the fish
as long as folks don't overstock the larger tank.

As far as a filter, I like to have redundancy with them also. For a 40-75G
tank, go with two filter systems ranked for the size tank you want since the
manufacturers almost always rank their filters higher than they are actually
capable of handling. So if you get a 40G, get two filter systems, both
rated for a 40G tank. HOB (hang on back) filters are usually less expensive
than canister filters and the Aqua-Clear brand is a very good HOB filter
system. I have two Rena Filstar canister filters (an xP-1 and an xP-3) and
I am very happy with both of them. I found out earlier that API, which
owned Rena, was purchased by the Mars Corporation (conglomerate) so all of
their products are now found on MarsFishCare.com. PetsMart.com usually has
pretty good pricing on the Rena Filstar canister line which is where I got
both of mine using the online pricing to get a much lower store price.
PetsMart doesn't sell the Aqua-Clear HOB filter line any longer so you can
use one of the online stores like MarineDepot.com, BigAlsOnline.com,
DrsFosterSmith.com, etc., to find your best price.

In fact, I just got an email from BigAlsOnline.com and they have a 25% off
sale on the Aqua-Clear filters so check them out. Here's the link that was
imbedded in the BigAlsOnline email and below that is the regular and special
prices shown in the ad page. They also have the Hagen Fluval canister
filters on sale and they are listed on the same page.
http://www.bigalsonline.com/edealinv/servlet/ExecMacro?nurl=from_client/coup
onsPromotions.vm&ctl_nbr=3684

1064U Aquaclear 20 Power Filter $21.39 $16.04 HAGEN25
1068U Aquaclear 30 Power Filter $28.49 $21.37 HAGEN25
1072U Aquaclear 50 Power Filter $29.89 $22.42 HAGEN25
1076U Aquaclear 70 Power Filter $41.29 $30.97 HAGEN25
1080U Aquaclear 110 Power Filter $63.99 $47.99 HAGEN25

11996 Fluval 105 External Canister Filter $89.99 $67.49 HAGEN25
11997 Fluval 205 External Canister Filter $109.99 $82.49 HAGEN25
11998 Fluval 305 External Canister Filter $146.99 $110.24 HAGEN25
11999 Fluval 405 External Canister Filter $199.99 $149.99 HAGEN25

As far as your fathers heater malfunctioning issue, that's one of the
reasons to buy two smaller undersized heaters rather than a single proper
sized heater. With the two heaters, you have redundancy, if one fails,
either in the on or off position, the other would still would either kick on
or off and the single undersized heater would not be able to overheat the
water but it would still keep it from getting too cool.

If you want to get smarter than your wife real quick, go to my blog page, "A
to Z of Fish Keeping"
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/to-z-of-fish-keeping-how-to-training.h
tml and take one or both of the online tutorials which will bring you up to
speed on "modern" fishkeeping which has come a long way since you were a
kid. If the link breaks, go to my blog and on the right side, you will see
the blog article.

Buying used tanks is especially OK as long as your basic inspection shows
them to be in good shape. The can be cleaned with Hydrogen Peroxide or a
strong salt water solution which will kill most pathogens. If the glass has
hard water deposits, use plain white cheap vinegar to dissolve them. With
these three "cleaning solutions", you would only have to rinse them once or
twice. If you use a 5%-10% bleach solution, you would have to rinse and
rinse and rinse some more to make sure you remove all of the chlorine from
the tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Lane
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:28 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] newest newbie

Hi All,

I just joined early this morning. My Pop had freshwater aquariums before I
was born. His best story was that he finally got a breeding pair of angel
fish. He came home 1 day to a malfunctioning heater. The water was very hot
and killed the entire breeding tank. (:<)

I took it up for a while when I was about 11. I was very into it for a few
years even though I only had a ten gallon tank. Angels and Hatchet fish were
my favorite.

I am now 45. I have been looking form something that my wife could become
interested in. she watches the Food Network all weekend long. There is not
much we can do for pets in our apartment. I had previously suggested fish
but it took a while to materialize. I have a TON of hobbies, mostly which
are or can be connected to trains and model railroading.

We now have 2) 2 gallon tanks and 3 fish. (Beta, Hatchet and Tetra) My wife
has been "slightly" obsessed thinking that our Beta is sick (was bought that
way as well), so the 2nd "hospital' tank was bought. Now with the internet
everything information wise is available whenever it is needed. She is the
consummate on line researching. In 1 week she zoomed past me on my limited
32 year old fish knowledge. We now have over $100.00 of hardware and
supplies for $10.00 in fish. We have 2 Petsmart and 1 Petco within 1 mile of
each other!

I have a few questions...

A larger tank purchase in the 40-75 gallon range is eminent, possibly in the
next week or so. I am tired of changing the cloudy water every 2-4 days.

I had just an under-gravel filter back in the day with my 10 gallon. I
thought it did a good job from what I can remember. Should I get an
under-gravel AND an external filter? Was there a Dyna-Flow filter back then?
I think that is what I wanted but never got. What is a good reasonably
priced external filter that would have replacement supplies in Petsmart etc?

Is buying a "pre-owned" tank OK? My wife has this thing about USED stuff.
She is looking at new 10-20 gallon tanks. I want bigger. I want that
relaxing graceful moving picture of the fish that everyone here understands.
I am not getting that in only 10 gallons! For almost the same $$ as a new 20
gallon I can get what I want on eBay. I know that cleaners are a no no
inside the tank. How do you prep a used tank? I guess I would have to make
sure it was a fish tank in its last usage. Is buying a previous salt water
tank for freshwater use OK?

If you have a nice condition 40-75 gallon tank and stand (or more) for sale
please contact me ASAP. Send a photo or 2 with your reply if possible. I
will pick up to about 20 miles from where I live. (Deptford NJ 08096) The
deal would need to be done in the next week or so as I am starting school in
2 weeks.

That outta get me started. Please reply directly to HYPERLINK
"mailto:bill@... <mailto:bill%40lanestrains.com>
"bill@... <mailto:bill%40lanestrains.com> if you would be so
kind to answer a few of my questions. You can check out my ever growing
website as well. I guess I will be adding fish to the "Other Interests" page
at some point!

Thank You,
Bill Lane


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.7/1062 - Release Date: 10/10/2007
5:11 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24318 From: jaysen223 Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: suppliers in nyc
im looking for any suppliers who can give me some common fish that
arent at the boosted price of the stores. i had a friend with a pet
shop liscence and he used to get everything for a quarter of the price
and raise it a little for some profit for himself. is there anyone with
this connection who can help me? im looking for a decent sized order.
please shoot me an email.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24319 From: Vinni Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
Yup I could if went out and bought another 2 stage timer :)) Hey another
question
It looks like the bulbs that came with it new were one blue and one daylight
I have since replaced them stupid me with both both day light. What
advantage does the blue bulb give ?



-------Original Message-------

From: Steve Szabo
Date: 10/11/2007 10:08:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

It looks like you can use two times for the effect I was explaining,
since it does have two power cords.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

oops wrong one this one is the one i have 2 x 65

http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_formosa_dx.html

-------Original Message-------

From: Steve Szabo

Date: 10/11/2007 6:50:14 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2

separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to

consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto

the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate

morning and evening.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Vinni

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug

in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to

leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is

good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights

running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it

so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24320 From: Kristen Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Breeding pair of red devil cichlids for sale
Hi group,
I have a breeding pair of red devil cichlids available for sale. I am
located in north central Illinois. I would prefer not to ship. Email
me at kristen6105@... if interested.
Thanks,
Kristen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24321 From: Kristen Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
I need some help making a decision regarding the lighting system I am
going to purchase. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted aquarium. I am
looking for about 3wpg. I need something that can sit on top of a
glass canopy, as I will not be able to leave the tank uncovered due to
my feline companions. I am thinking of going with compact
fluorescents, but would T-5 lighting be better? I am reading up on
both, and so far I don't understand all the differences between the
two. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Kristen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24322 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
I just purchased a T-5 dual strip for my 55 gallon. I believe the main
differences are in the diameter and energy output of the bulb; the T-5
bulbs I have are very thin. But you can only use T5 bulbs ever after,
unless you have end caps that accept other types. Most other bulbs are
either T-8, T-10 or T-12. So I think in a nutshell: T-5 bulbs are more
ecenomical, but since my 55 gallon isn't actually stocked yet, I can't
say if or how plant growth is affected. But compact flourecent bulbs
are easier to find. I believe it's more about the color spectrum
emitted than the wattage. Lumens and lux are the parameters to look for
in a bulb's description. I wish I had more and better info for you, but
I just started researching lighting myself. I will let you know how my
T5 fixture works, but I am sure you will have made a decision by then.
Good luck. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kristen" <kristen6105@...> wrote:
>
> I need some help making a decision regarding the lighting system I am
> going to purchase. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted aquarium. I
am
> looking for about 3wpg. I need something that can sit on top of a
> glass canopy, as I will not be able to leave the tank uncovered due
to
> my feline companions. I am thinking of going with compact
> fluorescents, but would T-5 lighting be better? I am reading up on
> both, and so far I don't understand all the differences between the
> two. Any advice would be much appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Kristen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24323 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Thanks for the help Noah, feel free to email me directly, kristen6105@.... I'll have to read up on lumens and lux.........


----- Original Message ----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:30:23 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent

I just purchased a T-5 dual strip for my 55 gallon. I believe the main
differences are in the diameter and energy output of the bulb; the T-5
bulbs I have are very thin. But you can only use T5 bulbs ever after,
unless you have end caps that accept other types. Most other bulbs are
either T-8, T-10 or T-12. So I think in a nutshell: T-5 bulbs are more
ecenomical, but since my 55 gallon isn't actually stocked yet, I can't
say if or how plant growth is affected. But compact flourecent bulbs
are easier to find. I believe it's more about the color spectrum
emitted than the wattage. Lumens and lux are the parameters to look for
in a bulb's description. I wish I had more and better info for you, but
I just started researching lighting myself. I will let you know how my
T5 fixture works, but I am sure you will have made a decision by then.
Good luck. :)

--- In AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com, "Kristen" <kristen6105@ ...> wrote:
>
> I need some help making a decision regarding the lighting system I am
> going to purchase. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted aquarium. I
am
> looking for about 3wpg. I need something that can sit on top of a
> glass canopy, as I will not be able to leave the tank uncovered due
to
> my feline companions. I am thinking of going with compact
> fluorescents, but would T-5 lighting be better? I am reading up on
> both, and so far I don't understand all the differences between the
> two. Any advice would be much appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Kristen
>





____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/index.html




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24324 From: mail.bwuk2003 Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Recommended Book for Koi Ponds
Hi

I recommend the following book as an essential book if you have koi

Your Garden Koi Fish Pond

<https://www.gardenkoipond.net/>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24325 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Question
I am not an expert on lighting for plants, but it is possible that the blue (possibly actinic) was because the fixture was used on a marine tank prior to your possession of the fixture.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Vinni
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 7:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question

Yup I could if went out and bought another 2 stage timer :)) Hey another
question

It looks like the bulbs that came with it new were one blue and one daylight
I have since replaced them stupid me with both both day light. What
advantage does the blue bulb give ?







-------Original Message-------



From: Steve Szabo

Date: 10/11/2007 10:08:35 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



It looks like you can use two times for the effect I was explaining,

since it does have two power cords.



\\Steve//



-----Original Message-----

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]

On Behalf Of Vinni

Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 8:22 PM

To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



oops wrong one this one is the one i have 2 x 65



http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_formosa_dx.html



-------Original Message-------



From: Steve Szabo



Date: 10/11/2007 6:50:14 PM



To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com



Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



For the plants, go for 10-12 hours of light. Since it appears to have 2



separate banks (unless you just pulled out the bulbs), you might want to



consider staggering the banks, with one turning on about 2 hours priorto



the other and ending 2 hours sooner than the other to try to simulate



morning and evening.



\\Steve//



-----Original Message-----



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]



On Behalf Of Vinni



Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 7:32 AM



To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com



Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Question



I have a 29 gallon tank with a jbj formossa 2x65 fixture. I got a plug



in digital timer yeterday and was wondering the best amount of time to



leave the lights on for the plants and fish. Ive read 8-10 hrs a day is



good but was curious of your opinions. Oh I only have one bank of lights



running. the fan on the other side is going out and i need to replace it



so it is only 65 watts on during the day and not 130 .







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24326 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Don't know about the bulbs, but I do know about cats, and once they fall
in, they have a tendency to give wide berth to the tanks <g>, at least
for a time. I remember one cat I had was down with me doing her usual
walk around the top of the tanks while I was piddling around working on
them. I never knew her to go after the fish, but she would watch them
for hours on end. Well, somehow she managed to lose her balance while
she was turning around, and fell into a 55. She was out of there before
you could blink, and on up the stairs to the kitchen. She blamed my wife
for the mishap, and would not have anything to do with her for over a
week. Meanwhile, she limited her viewing to what she could see from the
cellar steps. The tanks were right up on the steps, so she was not all
that far away from the fish, but it was months before she would go near
a tank again.

A very good friend of mine experiences a similar episode with one of his
cats as well, except, I believe, it was a larger tank, and definitely a
larger cat than mine.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kristen
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 11:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent

I need some help making a decision regarding the lighting system I am
going to purchase. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted aquarium. I am
looking for about 3wpg. I need something that can sit on top of a
glass canopy, as I will not be able to leave the tank uncovered due to
my feline companions. I am thinking of going with compact
fluorescents, but would T-5 lighting be better? I am reading up on
both, and so far I don't understand all the differences between the
two. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Kristen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24327 From: amorgan4me Date: 10/12/2007
Subject: Pond fish disappeared! Update!!! :-)
Holy smokes! A week and a half later the mystery of the missing pond
fish has been solved...Many of the fish are still in the pond!

They are incredibly skittish, but many of the lovely six and seven
year old fish have shot into view. I have no idea how they managed
to hide from the net and my searching for days but I am thrilled to
see them.

I had my arms in the pond to work with the pump today (Although I
didn't really care because the fish were gone.) and they started
whipping by my hand - Hungry I expect.

No doubt a bird or racoon got some of them but there are still a good
many left, and my favorites are okay. (The ones I recognize by
pattern have names, How sad is that?!)

Thanks for all the tips. I'm doing the predator squirty things to
prevent further scares. I didn't think it was likely to lose that
many fish in a pond with the shape mine has. I'm sooooo relieved not
all the fish were eaten or stolen.

Cheers!

Lian
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24328 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Help - - - pond pump failure
Hi all
I am a new member just joined.
I am in the UK, I have a 5 pond system & have just finished cleaning
out main pond & sump & re-landscaping etc.
The main pond is been there 23 years.
The pump is a blagdon mini pond 900 by interpet.
This morning as I was looking out the window I saw the outfall stop. I
immediatly switched off to save burn out.
Checked the inbuilt foam filter, not much muck, but washed it out,
switched on, it worked, great.
After 5 mins it stopped again. This time I switched off again took the
impeller out ( magnetic core) washed & cleaned all surfaces
reassembled, switched on again, working!
Stopped again. I tried ringing interpet but as its the weekend someone
is not at their desk.
Does anyone on here know what else could be the cause of the problem?
It would appear that a thermal cutout is operating, as the pump is warm
to the hand, & wont restart unless left for 2 minuites or so before
switching on again
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24329 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: New member with 5 pond system Intro
Hi all,
sorry I jumped in with a help request first & even forgot to sign who
I was. I have more experience with ponds than computers & the net!
I live in Devon in the UK.
The main pond is now 23 years old, & roughly 9ft x 6ft by 28 in.
deep. This flows over into the sump where the pump is & is about 5ft
x 4ft x 3ft deep.
This has just been remodelled from a small volume with large shallow
planting shelf, & which used to generate a lot of organic detrius
which meant frequent cleaning of pump prefilter foam.
I dug out the shelf to the same depth as the deepest part, relined
with soft sand ( leaving the original liner in place) & now have a
pond with about 8-10 times the volume of water in it which makes for
easier water management.
The water is pumped first into a 3ft deep tank about 2ft 6 x 12ft
long with vertical sides intended mainly for fish rather than wild
life. Indeed the gold fish in it are now 6 years old & upto 10 ins
long. This tank is part below ground and part above with a patio
style stone/brick wall lined with 2" polystyrene foan as insulation &
with black liner.
The water then flows over a waterfall made of some stepping stones
with irregular profile into either the main pond, or into a small
tank that is 7ft x 1ft x 9 ins deep, this was over run with Yellow
Iris till I just cleared it out, water flow can be regulated by the
simple method of rearranging a drift of pea gravel on the top level
of the waterfall.
I prefer the effect of the water from the small tank just
trickelling over into the main pond & the main flow from the big tank
directly over the steps into the main pond,
As the ponds are on the north side of the house moss & ferns grow
readily nearest the house whereas the 5th pond, a formal lily pond
furthest from the house gets more sun & the lilys flower well there.
In fact that pond was only completed this year in April & lilys from
the main pond have acclimatised well & flowered all summer & are
still doing so.
The flow to this pond is going to be minimal as lilies dont like too
much water flow. For this I have a two way tap that can adjust flow
into either outlet as required. But this is not working yet as I have
only just finished the outfall of this back to the sump & the
Hypertufa mix (to encourage moss growth)has still not dried out & I
want to minimise any chemicalls back into the main system until it
cures completely. We get an abundance of wild life in our ponds.
needless to say not much survives in the big deep tank where the big
gold fish are, their mouths are big enought to swallow something as
big as a broad bean!!
Frogs of various colours are abundant, but newts have only appeared
in the last 3 years. Incidentally I found an unusual newt when
recently clearing out the pond. It is yellow with an orange line down
the sides, all the rest are brownish colour.
We also have dragonflies & their small cousins (Damsel Flies?) living
in the ponds.
Because each pond is of different size & position diferent livestock
thrive in the different ponds.
RegaRDS
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24330 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent
Funny story Steve! One of my cats had a close call once, I was cleaning the tank and he went to jump on it like usual--unaware the top was open. I don't know how he didn't go in, but he caught himself right on the rim of the tank. He has to jump from a nearby table to get on the tank, which is about 4 feet away. It was pretty funny. One other time, he tried to jump from a pile of magazines which was on the table. He pushed off and the magazines went flying and he crashed against the stand. That was even better.


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 9:10:01 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent

Don't know about the bulbs, but I do know about cats, and once they fall
in, they have a tendency to give wide berth to the tanks <g>, at least
for a time. I remember one cat I had was down with me doing her usual
walk around the top of the tanks while I was piddling around working on
them. I never knew her to go after the fish, but she would watch them
for hours on end. Well, somehow she managed to lose her balance while
she was turning around, and fell into a 55. She was out of there before
you could blink, and on up the stairs to the kitchen. She blamed my wife
for the mishap, and would not have anything to do with her for over a
week. Meanwhile, she limited her viewing to what she could see from the
cellar steps. The tanks were right up on the steps, so she was not all
that far away from the fish, but it was months before she would go near
a tank again.

A very good friend of mine experiences a similar episode with one of his
cats as well, except, I believe, it was a larger tank, and definitely a
larger cat than mine.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com]
On Behalf Of Kristen
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 11:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] T-5 lighting vs. Compact Fluorescent

I need some help making a decision regarding the lighting system I am
going to purchase. I am setting up a 75 gallon planted aquarium. I am
looking for about 3wpg. I need something that can sit on top of a
glass canopy, as I will not be able to leave the tank uncovered due to
my feline companions. I am thinking of going with compact
fluorescents, but would T-5 lighting be better? I am reading up on
both, and so far I don't understand all the differences between the
two. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Kristen




____________________________________________________________________________________
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV.
http://tv.yahoo.com/


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24331 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@...> wrote:
>
--------------------------
Hi Don
Welcome to the group.From your description it seems that the
pump is overheating.Since the pump restarts after a few minutes that
means its overheating.How old is the pump?Have you increased the
(head)height of the pump?Since most pumps have a head limit and when
you get to its limit the motor starts to run hotter.If your intake is
not clogged or restricted the only other thing that it may be is that
the pump is getting old.Try putting the pump in a bucket and run it
if you have the same result if so then i would say that the unit
is on the way out. Good Luck.

Regards Hank
> Hi all
> I am a new member just joined.
> I am in the UK, I have a 5 pond system & have just finished
cleaning
> out main pond & sump & re-landscaping etc.
> The main pond is been there 23 years.
> The pump is a blagdon mini pond 900 by interpet.
> This morning as I was looking out the window I saw the outfall
stop. I
> immediatly switched off to save burn out.
> Checked the inbuilt foam filter, not much muck, but washed it out,
> switched on, it worked, great.
> After 5 mins it stopped again. This time I switched off again took
the
> impeller out ( magnetic core) washed & cleaned all surfaces
> reassembled, switched on again, working!
> Stopped again. I tried ringing interpet but as its the weekend
someone
> is not at their desk.
> Does anyone on here know what else could be the cause of the
problem?
> It would appear that a thermal cutout is operating, as the pump is
warm
> to the hand, & wont restart unless left for 2 minuites or so before
> switching on again
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24332 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Opinions?
Hi All,

I recently lost Joseph, one of my male betas. I'm not sure what
got him. His fins started dissolving off like when he had ich 8
months ago. I never saw the white specks on him though. Other
than losing his fins he had nothing else showing. The cories and
otto in tank are all healthy. They are in a 10 gallon tank. What I
am wanting to do is move my 7 half grown mollies into this tank.
They are currently in a 5 gallon. I thought I'd take the cories and
otto out and put some heavier salt in there for a week and then
move the molly babies into it. Do you think that would be long
enough to kill off whatever it might be? Whatever it was/is hasn't
hurt the cats but mollies are closer to betas so I don't want to
lose them also. They are beautiful dalmation ones. I know the
10 gallon will be too small for them but it's all I have right now.
My 55 is overstocked with the other molly babies. Next time I
guess I'll really just have to leave them and not take them out.
I'm out of room.

So, does this sound like it will be ok? I'd appreciate your help.

Thanks,
Traci

<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24333 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: New member with 5 pond system Intro
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@...> wrote:
>
----------------
Don
One thing i forgot to ask. When you check the pump is the motor
actually stopped or just not pumping water.When the unit stops feel
the housing (under water) and see if its vibrating.If not the thermal
cutout is doing its job.If its still running and no output the
problem is with the impeller unit.
Hank
------------------

> Hi all,
> sorry I jumped in with a help request first & even forgot to sign
who
> I was. I have more experience with ponds than computers & the net!
> I live in Devon in the UK.
> The main pond is now 23 years old, & roughly 9ft x 6ft by 28 in.
> deep. This flows over into the sump where the pump is & is about
5ft
> x 4ft x 3ft deep.
> This has just been remodelled from a small volume with large
shallow
> planting shelf, & which used to generate a lot of organic detrius
> which meant frequent cleaning of pump prefilter foam.
> I dug out the shelf to the same depth as the deepest part, relined
> with soft sand ( leaving the original liner in place) & now have a
> pond with about 8-10 times the volume of water in it which makes
for
> easier water management.
> The water is pumped first into a 3ft deep tank about 2ft 6 x 12ft
> long with vertical sides intended mainly for fish rather than wild
> life. Indeed the gold fish in it are now 6 years old & upto 10 ins
> long. This tank is part below ground and part above with a patio
> style stone/brick wall lined with 2" polystyrene foan as insulation
&
> with black liner.
> The water then flows over a waterfall made of some stepping stones
> with irregular profile into either the main pond, or into a small
> tank that is 7ft x 1ft x 9 ins deep, this was over run with Yellow
> Iris till I just cleared it out, water flow can be regulated by the
> simple method of rearranging a drift of pea gravel on the top level
> of the waterfall.
> I prefer the effect of the water from the small tank just
> trickelling over into the main pond & the main flow from the big
tank
> directly over the steps into the main pond,
> As the ponds are on the north side of the house moss & ferns grow
> readily nearest the house whereas the 5th pond, a formal lily pond
> furthest from the house gets more sun & the lilys flower well
there.
> In fact that pond was only completed this year in April & lilys
from
> the main pond have acclimatised well & flowered all summer & are
> still doing so.
> The flow to this pond is going to be minimal as lilies dont like
too
> much water flow. For this I have a two way tap that can adjust flow
> into either outlet as required. But this is not working yet as I
have
> only just finished the outfall of this back to the sump & the
> Hypertufa mix (to encourage moss growth)has still not dried out & I
> want to minimise any chemicalls back into the main system until it
> cures completely. We get an abundance of wild life in our ponds.
> needless to say not much survives in the big deep tank where the
big
> gold fish are, their mouths are big enought to swallow something as
> big as a broad bean!!
> Frogs of various colours are abundant, but newts have only appeared
> in the last 3 years. Incidentally I found an unusual newt when
> recently clearing out the pond. It is yellow with an orange line
down
> the sides, all the rest are brownish colour.
> We also have dragonflies & their small cousins (Damsel Flies?)
living
> in the ponds.
> Because each pond is of different size & position diferent
livestock
> thrive in the different ponds.
> RegaRDS
> Don
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24334 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: I may be way out of line...but
I may be way out of line, and if I am -I am, but...why do so many
people risk their fish's health and life span for just the enjoyment
of seeing their fish swim?? And possibly not for long! Time after
time, I see people who post posts about over crowded tanks, problems
with there fish's health, etc and they have these fish in 2 -15 gallon
tanks?
If you know your tank is too small and you know you don't have good
filtration, get another tank! If you don't have the money, then
consider downsizing your tank mates. Try Freecycle or Craigslist.

If people think having a fish is the cheap easy way out, think again.
As with any pet, if you do not have the material and cost for the
upkeep and maintenance of a HEALTHY pet, do not get one.

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24335 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
If you're applying this to me, you're damn right
your out of line.......

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sat 10/13/2007 12:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I may be way out of line...but



I may be way out of line, and if I am -I am, but...why do so many
people risk their fish's health and life span for just the enjoyment
of seeing their fish swim?? And possibly not for long! Time after
time, I see people who post posts about over crowded tanks, problems
with there fish's health, etc and they have these fish in 2 -15 gallon
tanks?
If you know your tank is too small and you know you don't have good
filtration, get another tank! If you don't have the money, then
consider downsizing your tank mates. Try Freecycle or Craigslist.

If people think having a fish is the cheap easy way out, think again.
As with any pet, if you do not have the material and cost for the
upkeep and maintenance of a HEALTHY pet, do not get one.

Jennifer






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24336 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Hi Hank
thanks for your response,
The pump is only a few months old,
the head height is unchanged,
the pump is not vibrating, it is actually off completely.
Since readng your post I have disconnected the pump from its pipework
& put it in a bucket & it has now cut out again after 5 mins or so.
Regards
Don



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@> wrote:
> >
> --------------------------
> Hi Don
> Welcome to the group.From your description it seems that the
> pump is overheating.Since the pump restarts after a few minutes
that
> means its overheating.How old is the pump?Have you increased the
> (head)height of the pump?Since most pumps have a head limit and
when
> you get to its limit the motor starts to run hotter.If your intake
is
> not clogged or restricted the only other thing that it may be is
that
> the pump is getting old.Try putting the pump in a bucket and run it
> if you have the same result if so then i would say that the unit
> is on the way out. Good Luck.
>
> Regards Hank
> > Hi all
> > I am a new member just joined.
> > I am in the UK, I have a 5 pond system & have just finished
> cleaning
> > out main pond & sump & re-landscaping etc.
> > The main pond is been there 23 years.
> > The pump is a blagdon mini pond 900 by interpet.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24337 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
That is applying to anyone who buys fish, breeds fish, collects fish
or what have you, who do not have the proper means and size tanks to
keep them healthy.
If you or anyone has spent time on this site reading posts from
others, you will see over and over again a certain person who posts
about the stress of fish that are in undersized tanks, with crowded
populations, under filtrated and under maintained. The hormone
levels, water reading, PWC, etc etc, etc.
Why do you do this to your fish KNOWING they are overcrowded and you
are either shortening their life span by several years or slowly
killing them without purposly doing so?
There are groups like these that if you can find someone in your
area you can give or even sell some at a low cost. Or Freecycle or
Craiglist. But if your tanks are ovecrowded due to you bought to
many, they keep breeding, whatever, do your fish a favor and lighten
the load on them. You do not have to have a tank swarming with fish
to enjoy them. If you think your tank is overcrowded, big chance is
IT IS!!
This applys to anyone who the shoe fits. Its just like anyone else
with animals without the room to aqequately house them, it takes a
toll on your animals for you to get the enjoyment from it, when you
could easily downsize your tank mates and the fish would be better
off, thus saving you time noney and heartache (if you are attached
to you fish as I am) on down the road.

Jennifer
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24338 From: harry perry Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but/ Too quick to judge????
Seems to me we have all been in the situation of having too many fish in a tank. I've done it. Sometimes by adding fish that grow too big. Sometimes by using the 1" per gallon rule and finding it doesn't work for all fish.

It's all part of learning. Should I give up fish keeping because I made a mistake?

Should I give up fish keeping because I don't have the resources that some folks have?.

In a perfect world everyone knows everything and fish die of old age. Of course their would be no need for groups like this one.

What if I said I think anyone who has a tank smaller than 150 gallons is wasting time and money and killing their fish?.

What this group is about is helping each other learn and enjoy fish keeping.

It is not about pointing fingers and criticizing. Let's try to help each other.

Harry, a moderator.

"Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-swatek@...> wrote: If you're applying this to me, you're damn right
your out of line.......

Traci Swatek-Rice
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of ipartyforfun
Sent: Sat 10/13/2007 12:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I may be way out of line...but

I may be way out of line, and if I am -I am, but...why do so many
people risk their fish's health and life span for just the enjoyment
of seeing their fish swim?? And possibly not for long! Time after
time, I see people who post posts about over crowded tanks, problems
with there fish's health, etc and they have these fish in 2 -15 gallon
tanks?
If you know your tank is too small and you know you don't have good
filtration, get another tank! If you don't have the money, then
consider downsizing your tank mates. Try Freecycle or Craigslist.

If people think having a fish is the cheap easy way out, think again.
As with any pet, if you do not have the material and cost for the
upkeep and maintenance of a HEALTHY pet, do not get one.

Jennifer

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24339 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but/ Too quick to judge????
Right on Harry!

Mike

In a message dated 10/13/2007 11:35:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
harryfisherman@... writes:

What this group is about is helping each other learn and enjoy fish keeping.

It is not about pointing fingers and criticizing. Let's try to help each
other.

Harry, a moderator.






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24340 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Did you just join?

Educate, don't berate!

Mike

In a message dated 10/13/2007 11:20:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Gittieup@... writes:


This applys to anyone who the shoe fits. Its just like anyone else
with animals without the room to aqequately house them, it takes a
toll on your animals for you to get the enjoyment from it, when you
could easily downsize your tank mates and the fish would be better
off, thus saving you time noney and heartache (if you are attached
to you fish as I am) on down the road.

Jennifer






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24341 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
No I did not just join.



And I am sorry if I came across too harsh, I did not mean it that way. I
understand sometimes that people get fish too big, too many, they breed
often, etc, I do, however, if you know your tank is overstocked, downsize by
a few to get it back down to normal numbers so the fish won't end up
suffering.

I did not mean for it to sound the way it did and I am sorry.



Jennifer



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: I may be way out of line...but




Did you just join?

Educate, don't berate!

Mike

In a message dated 10/13/2007 11:20:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
Gittieup@aristotle. <mailto:Gittieup%40aristotle.net> net writes:

This applys to anyone who the shoe fits. Its just like anyone else
with animals without the room to aqequately house them, it takes a
toll on your animals for you to get the enjoyment from it, when you
could easily downsize your tank mates and the fish would be better
off, thus saving you time noney and heartache (if you are attached
to you fish as I am) on down the road.

Jennifer

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol
<http://www.aol.com> com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24342 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Hello Don,

I am not too familiar with that brand of pump but it sounds like it is
similar to the
pumps sold in the USA called Pond Master Mag Drive pumps. I have been
using them for many
years and so far I have only had pump failures in the way of the
impeller blades missing or that the
cover at the end of the pump has worn out where the impeller end bearing
is at. What you have is a
overheating maybe because the internal coils have begun to break down
and are thus shorting.
To my knowledge of mag drive type pumps, they are not serviceable beyond
replacing the external parts
like impeller or cover. The Pond Master pumps are said to only last 3
years by length of warranty.
For the immediate solution, I would get on line and order a new pump and
deal with the old one later
on. I would also use one that does more volume like a 1800 or 2400 GPH.
These are all available at
least in the US at places like Foster's and Smiths, Big Als, That Pet
Place and several other places that sell
pond or garden supplies and products.
Being in the repair business, I am one of the cheap skates that tries to
fix everything before buying new. But there
are limits to what we can fix. I have at least 6 pumps in stock at all
times- 4 of them working on the pond now.
Ebay can sometimes find you a pump you need but you must be aware of
their value before bidding. There are plenty
of bad deals on E bay now and it is going to get worse.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.

Don Foxlow wrote:
>
> Hi all
> I am a new member just joined.
> I am in the UK, I have a 5 pond system & have just finished cleaning
> out main pond & sump & re-landscaping etc.
> The main pond is been there 23 years.
> The pump is a blagdon mini pond 900 by interpet.
> This morning as I was looking out the window I saw the outfall stop. I
> immediatly switched off to save burn out.
> Checked the inbuilt foam filter, not much muck, but washed it out,
> switched on, it worked, great.
> After 5 mins it stopped again. This time I switched off again took the
> impeller out ( magnetic core) washed & cleaned all surfaces
> reassembled, switched on again, working!
> Stopped again. I tried ringing interpet but as its the weekend someone
> is not at their desk.
> Does anyone on here know what else could be the cause of the problem?
> It would appear that a thermal cutout is operating, as the pump is warm
> to the hand, & wont restart unless left for 2 minuites or so before
> switching on again.
>
> ___


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24343 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
Hi Jennifer,
I completely agree with your ideas. Yet, people that I know who have
ponds have them
small, not very deep and in some cases the water is so murky you can't
even see the fish.
At the same time people don't get why I am always tending to my fish in
the pond and the
two tanks in the house. As you say, these are NOT just to look at. The
water in my pond
is crystal clear but that is still no perfection as Ammonia and other
dangerous chemicals can creep
up on you if you don't have a careful eye with test kits and the rest.
Yes, due to new fish I find in my 17 X 10 foot and 4 foot deep pond most
likely from breeding,
I too, have too many fish for the pond and have been looking for a
suitable place to donate some of these
healthy fish but so far I have not had any answers or have seen places
where I could let some go
where I am sure they would survive. I am SW of O'Hare Airport in the
Chicago area so if anyone
reading this needs some 4-5 inch gold fish let me know. In the mean time
I will be fighting the battle
with three filters, PW adds, Chemical additives and a bit of hard work.
My filtration always gets less in the
Winter where I have to worry about freezing lines.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.


ipartyforfun wrote:
>
> That is applying to anyone who buys fish, breeds fish, collects fish
> or what have you, who do not have the proper means and size tanks to
> keep them healthy.
> If you or anyone has spent time on this site reading posts from
> others, you will see over and over again a certain person who posts
> about the stress of fish that are in undersized tanks, with crowded
> populations, under filtrated and under maintained. The hormone
> levels, water reading, PWC, etc etc, etc.
> Why do you do this to your fish KNOWING they are overcrowded and you
> are either shortening their life span by several years or slowly
> killing them without purposly doing so?
> There are groups like these that if you can find someone in your
> area you can give or even sell some at a low cost. Or Freecycle or
> Craiglist. But if your tanks are ovecrowded due to you bought to
> many, they keep breeding, whatever, do your fish a favor and lighten
> the load on them. You do not have to have a tank swarming with fish
> to enjoy them. If you think your tank is overcrowded, big chance is
> IT IS!!
> This applys to anyone who the shoe fits. Its just like anyone else
> with animals without the room to aqequately house them, it takes a
> toll on your animals for you to get the enjoyment from it, when you
> could easily downsize your tank mates and the fish would be better
> off, thus saving you time noney and heartache (if you are attached
> to you fish as I am) on down the road.
>
> Jennifer
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24344 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Pond fish disappeared! Update!!! :-)
Hi Lian,
First, I am happy for you latest find. This is excellent.
I was wondering what made a lot of my fish stand at attention all next
to each other at
the bottom of the pond and later on I found that they were trying to
hide like that due to the
one bird visit we had that my wife says picked one out. Depending on the
clarity of the water
in your pond, maybe a large 5 gallon bucket could be placed at the
bottom for the fish to hide in
when there was a problem at the bottom. Also in the winter I had a
bucket down there and
the fish seem to like the bucket as there is little current requiring
them to swim for station keeping.
Who knows? Maybe it is a few degrees warming the the bucket. Just a thought.
Keep in mind the spray water device will not be of any value when the
water starts to freeze and
may even be damaged by the ice.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.


amorgan4me wrote:
>
> Holy smokes! A week and a half later the mystery of the missing pond
> fish has been solved...Many of the fish are still in the pond!
>
> They are incredibly skittish, but many of the lovely six and seven
> year old fish have shot into view. I have no idea how they managed
> to hide from the net and my searching for days but I am thrilled to
> see them.
>
> I had my arms in the pond to work with the pump today (Although I
> didn't really care because the fish were gone.) and they started
> whipping by my hand - Hungry I expect.
>
> No doubt a bird or racoon got some of them but there are still a good
> many left, and my favorites are okay. (The ones I recognize by
> pattern have names, How sad is that?!)
>
> Thanks for all the tips. I'm doing the predator squirty things to
> prevent further scares. I didn't think it was likely to lose that
> many fish in a pond with the shape mine has. I'm sooooo relieved not
> all the fish were eaten or stolen.
>
> Cheers!
>
> Lian
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24345 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Unusual Newt
Hi all
I have posted a pic in the photo section under the album "A few pics
from Don"
Newts have only appeared in my pond over the last three years. all
but this one are usually brownish with no crest, possibly smooth
newts. But this one, immature, as it still has its eternal gills. is
yellow with an orange line top & bottom of its body.
I am aware that pet shop bought frogs have been lost into the wild
around here ( as probably elsewhere) & we have over the years found
several red/yellow/green frogs in the pond as a result of cross
breeding.
Could this be the same happening with the newt, cross breeding with
an exotic that has escaped?
Or is this an example of a sort of albino but yellow instead of
white.
( or would that be a Jaundice-ino, instead):-))
It is about 2.25 ins long.
Quite often in the late summer I have found adult ordinary newts
under stones etc in groups of up to 14, time will tell wether the
same will be true of this type or if its a one off.
My pond is in the UK.
Regards
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24346 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Unusual Newt
It looks like an albino to me. Very cool either way.
Kate

Don Foxlow <donhenry@...> wrote:
Hi all
I have posted a pic in the photo section under the album "A few pics
from Don"
Newts have only appeared in my pond over the last three years. all
but this one are usually brownish with no crest, possibly smooth
newts. But this one, immature, as it still has its eternal gills. is
yellow with an orange line top & bottom of its body.
I am aware that pet shop bought frogs have been lost into the wild
around here ( as probably elsewhere) & we have over the years found
several red/yellow/green frogs in the pond as a result of cross
breeding.
Could this be the same happening with the newt, cross breeding with
an exotic that has escaped?
Or is this an example of a sort of albino but yellow instead of
white.
( or would that be a Jaundice-ino, instead):-))
It is about 2.25 ins long.
Quite often in the late summer I have found adult ordinary newts
under stones etc in groups of up to 14, time will tell wether the
same will be true of this type or if its a one off.
My pond is in the UK.
Regards
Don






---------------------------------
Be a better Heartthrob. Get better relationship answers from someone who knows.
Yahoo! Answers - Check it out.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24347 From: hank voss Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@...> wrote:
> --------------------
Don>
If the motor is not vibrating after the flow stops then i would
say the unit is overheating.If the unit is only a few months old it
should still be under the warrenty.I guess you will have to getin
touch with the manufacture they should replace it.
Regards Hank
-----------------------

> Hi Hank
> thanks for your response,
> The pump is only a few months old,
> the head height is unchanged,
> the pump is not vibrating, it is actually off completely.
> Since readng your post I have disconnected the pump from its
pipework
> & put it in a bucket & it has now cut out again after 5 mins or so.
> Regards
> Don
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@>
wrote:
> > >
> > --------------------------
> > Hi Don
> > Welcome to the group.From your description it seems that
the
> > pump is overheating.Since the pump restarts after a few minutes
> that
> > means its overheating.How old is the pump?Have you increased the
> > (head)height of the pump?Since most pumps have a head limit and
> when
> > you get to its limit the motor starts to run hotter.If your
intake
> is
> > not clogged or restricted the only other thing that it may be is
> that
> > the pump is getting old.Try putting the pump in a bucket and run
it
> > if you have the same result if so then i would say that the
unit
> > is on the way out. Good Luck.
> >
> > Regards Hank
> > > Hi all
> > > I am a new member just joined.
> > > I am in the UK, I have a 5 pond system & have just finished
> > cleaning
> > > out main pond & sump & re-landscaping etc.
> > > The main pond is been there 23 years.
> > > The pump is a blagdon mini pond 900 by interpet.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24348 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I may be way out of line...but
I empathize with you, Jennifer. I love animals and I get VERY upset if
I think someone isn't taking care of their's properly. I think you
just needed to word your post a bit more diplomatically because we've
all been there, and we don't know the specific circumstances of any
poster. For instance, my husband bought fish and a too-small aquarium.
But I'm the one who researched the various species and their
care and got new tanks; and I take care of them on a day-to-day basis.
But, yes, I have made mistakes, and I do my best to correct them.
That's why I joined this group - to learn from others' experiences,
and I have. If there is a particular poster that you think needs
advice and help, perhaps you could email that person privately in an
effort to help. I did this once, but I don't think my advice took.
Anyway, I'm so glad you care so much about your fish friends; I do too
(for all animals, no matter how far down on the food chain!) One
other thing: when I get mad about a poster (here or on other boards),
I write a draft response in MS Word and then sit on it. Later, after
I've calmed down, I re-read it and edit to try to avoid offending
anyone or start a debate, then copy and paste to the board. By the
way, I cringe when I think about my first aquarium experience with a
few goldies, a long time ago, long before computers and easy access to
help. To clean the tank, I actually removed the goldies, dumped all
the water, washed out the tank with soap, and replaced with untreated
tap water. I feel guilty about it till this day. It's a wonder they
survived as long as they did.

Shirley

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Bobby & Jennifer" <Gittieup@...>
wrote:
>
> No I did not just join.
>
>
>
> And I am sorry if I came across too harsh, I did not mean it that
way. I
> understand sometimes that people get fish too big, too many, they breed
> often, etc, I do, however, if you know your tank is overstocked,
downsize by
> a few to get it back down to normal numbers so the fish won't end up
> suffering.
>
> I did not mean for it to sound the way it did and I am sorry.
>
>
>
> Jennifer
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Deenerz@...
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:46 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: I may be way out of line...but
>
>
>
>
> Did you just join?
>
> Educate, don't berate!
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 10/13/2007 11:20:19 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> Gittieup@aristotle. <mailto:Gittieup%40aristotle.net> net writes:
>
> This applys to anyone who the shoe fits. Its just like anyone else
> with animals without the room to aqequately house them, it takes a
> toll on your animals for you to get the enjoyment from it, when you
> could easily downsize your tank mates and the fish would be better
> off, thus saving you time noney and heartache (if you are attached
> to you fish as I am) on down the road.
>
> Jennifer
>
> ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol
> <http://www.aol.com> com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24349 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: I need help with this filter...
It's just a sponge filter, but I must be missing something. On my 10
gallon I have this filter:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
c=3578+3579+3954&pcatid=3954

and I just got this one:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
c=3578+3579+3950&pcatid=3950

for my 55 gallon. Er... where does the airline tubing go, and where do
the bubbles come out? You can see on the smaller one that there is a
line to put tubing from a pump, and the bubble come out the top. This
bigger one only seems to have one opening. If the clear tube on top
goes to an air pump, what sort of connector would I need? Thanks for
any help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24350 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
I'm sorry. I don't know why those links didn't work. They are Azoo
foam bio-filters; the small one is the bio-filter 11, the big one is
the bio-filter 8. Sorry you have to look it up, but like I said I
don't know why the links didn't work. :( Thanks again!

Noah

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> It's just a sponge filter, but I must be missing something. On my
10
> gallon I have this filter:
> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
> c=3578+3579+3954&pcatid=3954
>
> and I just got this one:
> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
> c=3578+3579+3950&pcatid=3950
>
> for my 55 gallon. Er... where does the airline tubing go, and where
do
> the bubbles come out? You can see on the smaller one that there is
a
> line to put tubing from a pump, and the bubble come out the top.
This
> bigger one only seems to have one opening. If the clear tube on top
> goes to an air pump, what sort of connector would I need? Thanks
for
> any help!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24351 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
OMG I'm an idiot sometimes. I think I've got it. If the mods can
delete this thread, it would be appreciated. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm sorry. I don't know why those links didn't work. They are Azoo
> foam bio-filters; the small one is the bio-filter 11, the big one
is
> the bio-filter 8. Sorry you have to look it up, but like I said I
> don't know why the links didn't work. :( Thanks again!
>
> Noah
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > It's just a sponge filter, but I must be missing something. On my
> 10
> > gallon I have this filter:
> > http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
> > c=3578+3579+3954&pcatid=3954
> >
> > and I just got this one:
> > http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
> > c=3578+3579+3950&pcatid=3950
> >
> > for my 55 gallon. Er... where does the airline tubing go, and
where
> do
> > the bubbles come out? You can see on the smaller one that there
is
> a
> > line to put tubing from a pump, and the bubble come out the top.
> This
> > bigger one only seems to have one opening. If the clear tube on
top
> > goes to an air pump, what sort of connector would I need? Thanks
> for
> > any help!
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24352 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/13/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
LOL. Have you ever used tiny url? :-)
http://www.tiny.cc/

Anyhow, the links were managable, just a bit of a pain...(but I have no answer for you, haven't used these filters)

Carmen

----- Original Message -----
From: Noah Burge
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I need help with this filter...


OMG I'm an idiot sometimes. I think I've got it.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24353 From: gorsford Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue, Ody
I am thinking to buy a 48" fluorescent light for my 60 gallon tank
i found couple of defferent brands, like:
Coralite for $250
Current satellite for $250
Aquavue for $160 (free for 4 sun light 10k tubes option)
Odyssea for ~$110

they are all 260w w/ 4X65w CF tubes (2 white & 2 blue) and all have 4
blue LED, 2 fans
anyone has any experience w/ them? and which do u suggest me to buy? I
am buying it for my fresh water planted tank. should i use all white
tubes 10K color temp? The cheapest one, Odyssea got some good rating
after manufactured w/ a new ballast.
But I don't see any review for aquavue. Corallite and Current are well
known brands. but if u have to choose which would u choose first?

I will go w/ Odyssea, if u guys have good experience w/ it.
Thank you very much
Alex
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24354 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Hi all
I am pleased to report that the problem is solved with a little lateral
thinking.
I dismantled the pump impeller assembly again, then remembered that
the previous pump it replaced was still lying around. Same make, model
etc., ( I dont chuck things out in a hurry). I removed the assembly
from that one. In the centre of the impeller was a small rod?, 1/8th
inch in diam. probably ceramic, I think it said on the box, as the end
mountings were only plastic bushes. So I swopped the rods over, & just
checking it is still working now 2 1/2 hours after switching back on,
By the bye on checking out the window saw a collared dove drinking out
of the pond for the first time, seen other birds doing so & bathing
including a water wagtail the other day, black birds are a pest in the
spring thou, they go for the tadpoles
Regards
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24355 From: Vinni Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: DIY CO2
Wanted to share a finding I had when setting up my yeast bottle this
weekend

I have had difficulty getting the seal airtight on the 2litre cap and
did not want to use glue or other sealant on it thought it has worked
in the past.

I found some flat faucet washers in my toolbox that were the perfect
size to go around the barb sold by tower hobbies. It made a tight seal
on the inside and out of the cap.
I now have my co2 system up and running and working great. I have a
powered reactor in the tank. Overnight the ph has dropped .4 and the
leaves on all my plants are standing straight up at attention.

If you have an airleak issue on your 2 litre bottle give the washers a
try. I imagine they will fail over time but they are super cheap at
the local hardware store

Vinni
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24356 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
I don’t know what you are trying to light, but I just bought a Current
fixture (never heard of Odyssea) for a smaller freshwater tank with one
white/one blue bulb. The blue bulb makes my fish look great, but also
causes algae to grow everywhere and smother the plants! I’m going to try a
bulb with both tubes white, but maybe you can avoid my mistake.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of gorsford
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite,
Current, Aquavue, Odyssea.



I am thinking to buy a 48" fluorescent light for my 60 gallon tank
i found couple of defferent brands, like:
Coralite for $250
Current satellite for $250
Aquavue for $160 (free for 4 sun light 10k tubes option)
Odyssea for ~$110

they are all 260w w/ 4X65w CF tubes (2 white & 2 blue) and all have 4
blue LED, 2 fans
anyone has any experience w/ them? and which do u suggest me to buy? I
am buying it for my fresh water planted tank. should i use all white
tubes 10K color temp? The cheapest one, Odyssea got some good rating
after manufactured w/ a new ballast.
But I don't see any review for aquavue. Corallite and Current are well
known brands. but if u have to choose which would u choose first?

I will go w/ Odyssea, if u guys have good experience w/ it.
Thank you very much
Alex





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24357 From: hank voss Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Don Foxlow" <donhenry@...> wrote:
> ---------------------
Don:
Glad to read that your problem is solved.The impeller is usually
the most common point of trouble.Your statement on using a part from
an old pump reminded me of one of my biggest problems that of
throwing out old and broken items.Im a "pack rat" i save just about
everything.My wife used to say "what are you saving that stuff for?"I
cant say how many times ive repaired one item from another.Today is a
throwaway society.I guess since i grew up during WW2 and you tried to
fix what broke since you couldnt replace them easily.Ive got boxes of
old pumps,motors and filters.Enough of my rants glad your problem is
solved.
Regards Hank

> Hi all
> I am pleased to report that the problem is solved with a little
lateral
> thinking.
> I dismantled the pump impeller assembly again, then remembered
that
> the previous pump it replaced was still lying around. Same make,
model
> etc., ( I dont chuck things out in a hurry). I removed the assembly
> from that one. In the centre of the impeller was a small rod?,
1/8th
> inch in diam. probably ceramic, I think it said on the box, as the
end
> mountings were only plastic bushes. So I swopped the rods over, &
just
> checking it is still working now 2 1/2 hours after switching back
on,
> By the bye on checking out the window saw a collared dove drinking
out
> of the pond for the first time, seen other birds doing so & bathing
> including a water wagtail the other day, black birds are a pest in
the
> spring thou, they go for the tadpoles
> Regards
> Don
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24358 From: eskielists@reskie.com Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Aqualight makes a line specifically for freshwater (says "freshwater" right on it) in which both lights are white. Most of my fixtures are still t-10's and t-8's...friggin things don't break so that you have an excuse to replace them :-) My one CF fixture is a 2x55w All Glass unit and it performs well. I've got it over a 35 gallon with a Hagen yeast co2 system and the plants grow insanely.

Carmen

http://www.reskie.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gorsford
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue, Odyssea.


I am thinking to buy a 48" fluorescent light for my 60 gallon tank
i found couple of defferent brands, like:
Coralite for $250
Current satellite for $250
Aquavue for $160 (free for 4 sun light 10k tubes option)
Odyssea for ~$110

they are all 260w w/ 4X65w CF tubes (2 white & 2 blue) and all have 4
blue LED, 2 fans
anyone has any experience w/ them? and which do u suggest me to buy? I
am buying it for my fresh water planted tank. should i use all white
tubes 10K color temp? The cheapest one, Odyssea got some good rating
after manufactured w/ a new ballast.
But I don't see any review for aquavue. Corallite and Current are well
known brands. but if u have to choose which would u choose first?

I will go w/ Odyssea, if u guys have good experience w/ it.
Thank you very much
Alex





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24359 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
I am an aquarium service, and I use alot of Jebo. For the price it cant be beat. Some of the suppliers on e-bay give you the option of what bulbs you want as well.
Be sure you get the legs for it., it must be elevated of the glass tops. If you don't the acrylic lens will warp out of shape and heat your glass to the point that they could break if splashed with water. I have had problems with the fans on Jebo as well as other brands.
Hope this helps.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gorsford
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 4:42 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue, Odyssea.


I am thinking to buy a 48" fluorescent light for my 60 gallon tank
i found couple of defferent brands, like:
Coralite for $250
Current satellite for $250
Aquavue for $160 (free for 4 sun light 10k tubes option)
Odyssea for ~$110

they are all 260w w/ 4X65w CF tubes (2 white & 2 blue) and all have 4
blue LED, 2 fans
anyone has any experience w/ them? and which do u suggest me to buy? I
am buying it for my fresh water planted tank. should i use all white
tubes 10K color temp? The cheapest one, Odyssea got some good rating
after manufactured w/ a new ballast.
But I don't see any review for aquavue. Corallite and Current are well
known brands. but if u have to choose which would u choose first?

I will go w/ Odyssea, if u guys have good experience w/ it.
Thank you very much
Alex






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.8/1063 - Release Date: 10/11/2007 9:11 AM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24360 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
Hank said: ... My wife used to say "what are you saving that stuff for?"...

Thank goodness we don't have to keep the old wives around in boxes once they
break. When I get rid of them, I want them to stay that way. LOL (Just
kidding ladies! ;-) NOT! LOL)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hank voss
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Help - - - pond pump failure

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Don Foxlow" <donhenry@...> wrote:
> ---------------------
Don:
Glad to read that your problem is solved.The impeller is usually the most
common point of trouble.Your statement on using a part from an old pump
reminded me of one of my biggest problems that of throwing out old and
broken items.Im a "pack rat" i save just about everything.My wife used to
say "what are you saving that stuff for?"I cant say how many times ive
repaired one item from another.Today is a throwaway society.I guess since i
grew up during WW2 and you tried to fix what broke since you couldnt replace
them easily.Ive got boxes of old pumps,motors and filters.Enough of my rants
glad your problem is solved.
Regards Hank

> Hi all
> I am pleased to report that the problem is solved with a little
lateral
> thinking.
> I dismantled the pump impeller assembly again, then remembered
that
> the previous pump it replaced was still lying around. Same make,
model
> etc., ( I dont chuck things out in a hurry). I removed the assembly
> from that one. In the centre of the impeller was a small rod?,
1/8th
> inch in diam. probably ceramic, I think it said on the box, as the
end
> mountings were only plastic bushes. So I swopped the rods over, &
just
> checking it is still working now 2 1/2 hours after switching back
on,
> By the bye on checking out the window saw a collared dove drinking
out
> of the pond for the first time, seen other birds doing so & bathing
> including a water wagtail the other day, black birds are a pest in
the
> spring thou, they go for the tadpoles
> Regards
> Don
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.9/1069 - Release Date: 10/13/2007
7:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24361 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: I need help with this filter...
Thanks for the tip, Carmen. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, eskielists@... wrote:
>
> LOL. Have you ever used tiny url? :-)
> http://www.tiny.cc/
>
> Anyhow, the links were managable, just a bit of a pain...(but I
have no answer for you, haven't used these filters)
>
> Carmen
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Noah Burge
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 10:15 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: I need help with this filter...
>
>
> OMG I'm an idiot sometimes. I think I've got it.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24362 From: camillenmx Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Newbie with too many fish
I am new to keeping fish as pets so please bear with me. My school gave my 3 year old a
pair of guppies (long story) and they managed to survive for almost a year in a really
simple tank set-up. The male died and the female gave birth to 14 fry. I decide to get a
planted tank because the one they were in seemed way too small so I went from a 3 gallon
gravel bottom, plastic plant number to a 10 gallon planted tank.

Then I went a little nuts.

The tetras it was recommended I purchase did not fare well, I lost all six within a week of
bringing them home. I haven't had the heart to try that again.

I purchased two cory cats which 6 months later seem fat and happy.

I have an algae eater who doubled in size within 6 weeks and is doing quite well as is the
snail (in spanish a manzano, don't know what the english version is), a white mollie and a
platty, along with the sole surviving guppy fry.

The problem is the platty and the mollie have given birth and I haven't a clue what to do
with all of the fry.

My first secret hope was that not all of them would survive. I lost several of the mollie fry
but I think I have a good tank environment because they are thriving. I have apparently
both a male and female mollie (I'm judging the gender by size differences) and about 14
(can't count 'em all at the same time 'cause they're feisty little swimmers) platties.

I don't have friends with fish tanks to give them to although I know someone with a pond
who says she will take them if I can't find homes. Will they do ok in a pond? Is there
another solution, other than the obvious one which I think is inhumane?

Please help. I did not set out to have a tank full of fish, I just wanted a half dozen or so
happy little guys swiming around because although we were not fish enthusiasts, they
have provided hours of enjoyment and relaxation for my entire family.

Thank you for any help you can offer me.

Camille
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24363 From: sneha_pre Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: hI
HI,
hi i am new to this group
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24364 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Camille,

Several different ideas for you to try.
1. Your local fish store, they won't give you much but maybe you
could start a credit towards fish food or something like that.

2. Freecycle, try your local Freecycle group or groups. List an add
for fish and see what repsonses you get back. Probaly a few!

3. Put an add on Craiglist in your area and either sell them for a
few dollars or list them for free, depending on how quick you want
hem gone!

4. Run an add in your local newspaper (can usaully be done for free).

Good luck, I'm sure you will have many more to come so you may want
to keep a running add!

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24365 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
A 10G tank has limited stocking capabilities, most of which you are
violating. ;-)

Here is a good stocking list for 10G tanks so you will see what you
can/should have compared to what you do have.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml (If the link breaks, which is likely with Yahoogroups, simply go to my
blog, in my sig, and on the right side under March's blogs, you will see a
link to Hailey's 10 Gallon Tank Stocking List.

You need to decide which fish you will get rid of. The "algae eater" will
likely have to go depending on which species it is. There are dozens of
species of fish that are "algae eaters" so you need to find out what species
you have but nearly all of them get too big for a 10G and many of them get
too big for a 75G tank just to give you an idea of what you may need if you
want to keep all of your fish.

For a 10G tank, with livebearers (mollies, platies, guppies), you are best
keeping all males to avoid the breeding issues.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of camillenmx
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with too many fish

I am new to keeping fish as pets so please bear with me. My school gave my 3
year old a pair of guppies (long story) and they managed to survive for
almost a year in a really simple tank set-up. The male died and the female
gave birth to 14 fry. I decide to get a planted tank because the one they
were in seemed way too small so I went from a 3 gallon gravel bottom,
plastic plant number to a 10 gallon planted tank.

Then I went a little nuts.

The tetras it was recommended I purchase did not fare well, I lost all six
within a week of bringing them home. I haven't had the heart to try that
again.

I purchased two cory cats which 6 months later seem fat and happy.

I have an algae eater who doubled in size within 6 weeks and is doing quite
well as is the snail (in spanish a manzano, don't know what the english
version is), a white mollie and a platty, along with the sole surviving
guppy fry.

The problem is the platty and the mollie have given birth and I haven't a
clue what to do with all of the fry.

My first secret hope was that not all of them would survive. I lost several
of the mollie fry but I think I have a good tank environment because they
are thriving. I have apparently both a male and female mollie (I'm judging
the gender by size differences) and about 14 (can't count 'em all at the
same time 'cause they're feisty little swimmers) platties.

I don't have friends with fish tanks to give them to although I know someone
with a pond who says she will take them if I can't find homes. Will they do
ok in a pond? Is there another solution, other than the obvious one which I
think is inhumane?

Please help. I did not set out to have a tank full of fish, I just wanted a
half dozen or so happy little guys swiming around because although we were
not fish enthusiasts, they have provided hours of enjoyment and relaxation
for my entire family.

Thank you for any help you can offer me.

Camille



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.9/1069 - Release Date: 10/13/2007
7:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24366 From: jules27au Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Frustrated Owner..
Hi Everyone,

Perhaps by the time Australia chooses to keep John Howard or throw
him away, I might have solved by fish tank problems... hopefully!!

Anyway, ammonia level is still very high, PH has dropped from 6.6 to
6.2, GH,KH, nitrate & nitrite are all nil, my fish have had their
water changed that much they get scared every time I come near the
tank & now I have cloudy water..

This could be a result of me getting so frustrated, that I did a
full clean up of the tank, washed the stones the lot.

At present I don't have any carbon in my filter or weed in the tank,
so would either of these help any of the above problems?

Cheers

Jules
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24367 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Help - - - pond pump failure
I'm glad you got your pump fixed. I've done the same thing in the past with a Sun Tera pump (went thru 4 of them in 2 years before the company changed designs). I love to watch the birds bathing in the ice holes over the winter. People tend to remember to feed the birds but rarely remember that birds do need water to bathe in the winter to keep their feathers waterproof. Even in winter the pond is full of life. Enjoy, Gail


Gail Hopkins
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...


---------------------------------
Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha!
Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24368 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Hi Jules,

How high is your ammonia? "Very high" doesn't tell us much as one man's
mountain is another man's mole hill. lol

It's kind of good that your pH is low. That's actually God's way of
protecting the fish when the ammonia gets high because a low pH makes
ammonia much less toxic.

There's not much else I can tell you since you don't give us much to work
with. I realize you may have posted info in the past but this group gets
dozens of messages a day so it's hard for anyone to remember your previous
posts.

Give us a full history (tank size, fish stocking, how long set up, etc.) or
copy/paste all of your previous posts about your tank in chronological order
into one post so we can get up to speed on your situation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 10:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..


Hi Everyone,

Perhaps by the time Australia chooses to keep John Howard or throw him away,
I might have solved by fish tank problems... hopefully!!

Anyway, ammonia level is still very high, PH has dropped from 6.6 to 6.2,
GH,KH, nitrate & nitrite are all nil, my fish have had their water changed
that much they get scared every time I come near the tank & now I have
cloudy water..

This could be a result of me getting so frustrated, that I did a full clean
up of the tank, washed the stones the lot.

At present I don't have any carbon in my filter or weed in the tank, so
would either of these help any of the above problems?

Cheers

Jules



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.9/1069 - Release Date: 10/13/2007
7:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24369 From: rmp052690 Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "camillenmx" <camillec@...> wrote:
>
> I am new to keeping fish as pets so please bear with me. My school
gave my 3 year old a
> pair of guppies (long story) and they managed to survive for almost
a year in a really
> simple tank set-up. The male died and the female gave birth to 14
fry. I decide to get a
> planted tank because the one they were in seemed way too small so I
went from a 3 gallon
> gravel bottom, plastic plant number to a 10 gallon planted tank.
>
> Then I went a little nuts.
>
> The tetras it was recommended I purchase did not fare well, I lost
all six within a week of
> bringing them home. I haven't had the heart to try that again.
>
> I purchased two cory cats which 6 months later seem fat and happy.
>
> I have an algae eater who doubled in size within 6 weeks and is
doing quite well as is the
> snail (in spanish a manzano, don't know what the english version
is), a white mollie and a
> platty, along with the sole surviving guppy fry.
>
> The problem is the platty and the mollie have given birth and I
haven't a clue what to do
> with all of the fry.
>
> My first secret hope was that not all of them would survive. I lost
several of the mollie fry
> but I think I have a good tank environment because they are
thriving. I have apparently
> both a male and female mollie (I'm judging the gender by size
differences) and about 14
> (can't count 'em all at the same time 'cause they're feisty little
swimmers) platties.
>
> I don't have friends with fish tanks to give them to although I know
someone with a pond
> who says she will take them if I can't find homes. Will they do ok
in a pond? Is there
> another solution, other than the obvious one which I think is inhumane?
>
> Please help. I did not set out to have a tank full of fish, I just
wanted a half dozen or so
> happy little guys swiming around because although we were not fish
enthusiasts, they
> have provided hours of enjoyment and relaxation for my entire family.
>
> Thank you for any help you can offer me.
>
> Camille
>

dear Camille,
For me it is ok to put livebearers such as mollies and guppies in
ponds, unless when it is winter. I have raised mollies, guppies, and
swordtails for almost 2 years and for they are best kind of fish a
beginner must have.
if you want to stop them from breeding try separating the males from
the females....
males have pointed anal fins, while females have blunt ones.
livebearers can some problems because of the high survival rate of
their young. I have encountered these problems....until now their
increasing number is still a problem for me.
I am planning to raise carnivorous aquarium fish.....
in this way, I could feed the fry of the livebearers to predatory fish
and control their population. this my sound brutal but you are just
making an event in nature possible....predation,...in one way you are
not directly responsible for their death. In addition to that large
predatory fish don't easily breed in the aquaria.

besides, predatory fish such as oscars are nice to keep.

mark
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24370 From: inoudo2 Date: 10/14/2007
Subject: Re: Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite, Current, Aquavue,
Greetings fish folk,

Donna, PC tubes with one blue light are intended for saltwater
set-ups. Two "white" lights are best for FW. a CRI close to 100 (90s
is probably the best we can find) with a color temp of 5500K-1000K,
depending on plant requirements.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> I don't know what you are trying to light, but I just bought a Current
> fixture (never heard of Odyssea) for a smaller freshwater tank with one
> white/one blue bulb. The blue bulb makes my fish look great, but also
> causes algae to grow everywhere and smother the plants! I'm going
to try a
> bulb with both tubes white, but maybe you can avoid my mistake.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of gorsford
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 5:42 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Compact fluorescent lighting brands: Coralite,
> Current, Aquavue, Odyssea.
>
>
>
> I am thinking to buy a 48" fluorescent light for my 60 gallon tank
> i found couple of defferent brands, like:
> Coralite for $250
> Current satellite for $250
> Aquavue for $160 (free for 4 sun light 10k tubes option)
> Odyssea for ~$110
>
> they are all 260w w/ 4X65w CF tubes (2 white & 2 blue) and all have 4
> blue LED, 2 fans
> anyone has any experience w/ them? and which do u suggest me to buy? I
> am buying it for my fresh water planted tank. should i use all white
> tubes 10K color temp? The cheapest one, Odyssea got some good rating
> after manufactured w/ a new ballast.
> But I don't see any review for aquavue. Corallite and Current are well
> known brands. but if u have to choose which would u choose first?
>
> I will go w/ Odyssea, if u guys have good experience w/ it.
> Thank you very much
> Alex
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24371 From: Julie Roughley Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Hi,

According to the test kit, ammonia level is still at 8.0.

Tank size is 70 litres (previously advised it was 60 litres, but after so many water changes, set up for 3 years with tropical fish, used to be able to breed guppies & have a happy community tank.

Now have 8 fish in it

Previous information below:

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good
water without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them
into shock which can be fatal.

How did things get so bad? What is the highest recent ammonia level? What
size tank and what types and how many of each species?

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? How long has the tank been set
up? Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria?

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have?

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia


Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules

----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 15 October, 2007 2:32:44 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..

Hi Jules,

How high is your ammonia? "Very high" doesn't tell us much as one man's
mountain is another man's mole hill. lol

It's kind of good that your pH is low. That's actually God's way of
protecting the fish when the ammonia gets high because a low pH makes
ammonia much less toxic.

There's not much else I can tell you since you don't give us much to work
with. I realize you may have posted info in the past but this group gets
dozens of messages a day so it's hard for anyone to remember your previous
posts.

Give us a full history (tank size, fish stocking, how long set up, etc.) or
copy/paste all of your previous posts about your tank in chronological order
into one post so we can get up to speed on your situation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 10:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..


Hi Everyone,

Perhaps by the time Australia chooses to keep John Howard or throw him away,
I might have solved by fish tank problems... hopefully!!

Anyway, ammonia level is still very high, PH has dropped from 6.6 to 6.2,
GH,KH, nitrate & nitrite are all nil, my fish have had their water changed
that much they get scared every time I come near the tank & now I have
cloudy water..

This could be a result of me getting so frustrated, that I did a full clean
up of the tank, washed the stones the lot.

At present I don't have any carbon in my filter or weed in the tank, so
would either of these help any of the above problems?

Cheers

Jules



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.9/1069 - Release Date: 10/13/2007
7:26 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24372 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Frustrated Owner..
Did you follow the instructions I gave previously about doing a series of
PWC's every couple of hours to get the ammonia down? By doing a 25% PWC
every few hours throughout the course of a day, you would be changing nearly
100% of the water over the course of 12 hours. By doing it in stages, it
helps the fish acclimate to the "new" water since the parameters will likely
be dramatically different.

Make sure you use your siphon to vacuum your gravel also since you could
have an excess of detritus built up in the gravel constantly releasing
ammonia and carbonic acid into your tank which would account for the high
ammonia and low pH levels you are getting.

Have you tested your tap water baseline? There's always a chance that your
tap has excessively high ammonia levels.

What chemical water treatment are you using? Some of them can cause false
ammonia readings.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Julie Roughley
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 2:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..

Hi,

According to the test kit, ammonia level is still at 8.0.

Tank size is 70 litres (previously advised it was 60 litres, but after so
many water changes, set up for 3 years with tropical fish, used to be able
to breed guppies & have a happy community tank.

Now have 8 fish in it

Previous information below:

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

You need to do a series of PWC's (partial water changes), up to 25% of the
water every 2-3 hours so you can slowly bring the ammonia levels back down
without causing a pH spike or crash... more than likely a spike since your
pH is already so low.

What is your tap/source water parameters? What is your tank water
parameters? (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, temperature, KH, GH and any
other tests you have) The key is to slowly acclimate them back to good
water without changing the parameters too much, too fast which can put them
into shock which can be fatal.

How did things get so bad? What is the highest recent ammonia level? What
size tank and what types and how many of each species?

What happened that caused the ammonia spike? How long has the tank been set
up? Do you know about the nitrogen cycle and how it works in aquaria?

Go to my blog (link in sig) and read my article on "Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning" (link on right side of blog) so you do not make the mistakes which
are often made concerning cleaning filters.

A UGF (Under Gravel Filter) will not solve ammonia problems any better or
worse than any other filter. What kind of filter (brand and model) do you
currently have?

I know this is a lot of questions but we need this info in order to give you
proper advice and guidance.

While you are at my blog, go to the page "A to Z of Fish Keeping" and take
one or both of the online tutorials that I have linked on that page. These
two tutorials will give you a much better understanding of the nitrogen
cycle and basic fish keeping.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 2:14 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Amonia


Hi All,

I was bad & now my amonia level is out of control...

How can I fix this as quickly as possible, with lthe least number fish lives
lost (so far 5 small fish have departed) & will an under ground filter stop
the problem happening again.

The tank Nitrite level = 0 & my Ph level is 6.4.

So far I have replaced around 50% of the water over an eight day period.

Cheers

Jules

----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, 15 October, 2007 2:32:44 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..

Hi Jules,

How high is your ammonia? "Very high" doesn't tell us much as one man's
mountain is another man's mole hill. lol

It's kind of good that your pH is low. That's actually God's way of
protecting the fish when the ammonia gets high because a low pH makes
ammonia much less toxic.

There's not much else I can tell you since you don't give us much to work
with. I realize you may have posted info in the past but this group gets
dozens of messages a day so it's hard for anyone to remember your previous
posts.

Give us a full history (tank size, fish stocking, how long set up, etc.) or
copy/paste all of your previous posts about your tank in chronological order
into one post so we can get up to speed on your situation.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jules27au
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 10:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Frustrated Owner..


Hi Everyone,

Perhaps by the time Australia chooses to keep John Howard or throw him away,
I might have solved by fish tank problems... hopefully!!

Anyway, ammonia level is still very high, PH has dropped from 6.6 to 6.2,
GH,KH, nitrate & nitrite are all nil, my fish have had their water changed
that much they get scared every time I come near the tank & now I have
cloudy water..

This could be a result of me getting so frustrated, that I did a full clean
up of the tank, washed the stones the lot.

At present I don't have any carbon in my filter or weed in the tank, so
would either of these help any of the above problems?

Cheers

Jules


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.10/1070 - Release Date: 10/14/2007
9:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24373 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Fish size reference source
Does anyone know where I can find a reference or a site that will aid me
determining fish species size when full grown, to help me determine
which fish I will want in my tank?

Thanks,
Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24374 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
http://fish.mongabay.com Mongabay is one of the most complete and accurate
fish profile sites on the internet. It's not 100% so you should also look
at other reputable sites for information. The good thing about Mongabay
profiles is their section on SC (Species Compatibility) so you will know if
your proposed fish are compatible. But remember, the fish do not always
read the same things we read so there are always exceptions to the rules.

Here is my blog info on the subject and a copy/paste from my blog with the
actual sites since my blog links often break here on Yahoogroups.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/fish-compatibility-charts-fish.html

--------------------------
While getting live advice and suggestions is nice, I also check one or more
of these sites for more specific details on the actual fish to learn the
preferences and compatibility issues:

http://fish.mongabay.com/ (Use Search)

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/freshindex.html

http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/Fishindx/fishindx.htm

http://www.tropicalresources.net/TR_profiles/ (Use Search if needed)

http://www.fishbase.org/search.php?lang=English (Use Search)

http://www.liveaquaria.com/ (Use Search)

http://www.fishindex.com/

http://www.fishprofiles.com/profiles/ (Use Search)

http://www.aquariumfish.com/aquariumfish/Species_List.aspx

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/fishspecies/l/blfishlibrary.htm

http://www.aquariumfish.net/indexes/indexes.htmhttp://futurepet.com/cgi-bin/
search.exe?BP=1&RCAT=300

http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/ (For Good Catfish & Pleco Profiles
using various search options)

http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/common_names.php (Using Catfish/Pleco
Common Names)
-----------------------

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 8:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish size reference source

Does anyone know where I can find a reference or a site that will aid me
determining fish species size when full grown, to help me determine which
fish I will want in my tank?

Thanks,
Jodie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.10/1070 - Release Date: 10/14/2007
9:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24375 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
It is a bit out of date now, but in the late 70's or early 80's there
was a booklet published listing fish sizes of hundreds of fish. These
sizes were garnered from all numbers of sources including experienced
aquarists (tank size may well be different from wild size), hobby
literature and scientific references. I can't put my hands on my copy
immediately to confirm, but I believe it was compiled by Dr. Peter
Lewis. Try various used book outlets to look for it like Finley Aquatic
Books and Jim Forshey's Aquatic Book Shop for two. I don't know if Neil
Frank still has a site up, but he may be worth tracking down for a copy,
and there are several other reputable people dealing in aquatic
literature that may have it.

For the science of it, try www.fishbase.org but remember, these are
scientists and you need to look each one up individually, preferably by
scientific name to find sizes (and a lot of other, possibly, interesting
information).

\\Steve//
-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:08 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish size reference source

Does anyone know where I can find a reference or a site that will aid me

determining fish species size when full grown, to help me determine
which fish I will want in my tank?

Thanks,
Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24376 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Help for a sick Rainbow
I have a Boseman Rainbow, male, that has recently lost color. He
appears to have an almost gray cast to part of his body. I can
visualize no fuzz,dots, lumps etc... He is very active and eating very
well. I have read up on all the parasites, fungus etc... but his look
does not match up with anything exactly. I'm not even sure if this
isn't a natural color change. He's my first one. I've had him for about
a month.
Does anyone on the list have experience with Boseman Rainbows?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24377 From: Steve Biondi Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Help for a sick Rainbow
Hi Lisa,

Why don't you send an email to Jason Stone from SFas. He bought some
rainbows from a gentleman who gave a great presentation on Rainbows a few
months ago. I am sure that he has his contact info .

Steve

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 5:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help for a sick Rainbow



I have a Boseman Rainbow, male, that has recently lost color. He
appears to have an almost gray cast to part of his body. I can
visualize no fuzz,dots, lumps etc... He is very active and eating very
well. I have read up on all the parasites, fungus etc... but his look
does not match up with anything exactly. I'm not even sure if this
isn't a natural color change. He's my first one. I've had him for about
a month.
Does anyone on the list have experience with Boseman Rainbows?






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24378 From: Camille Collins Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Dear Lenny,

Thank you. I visited the blog you mentioned and read about the fish
I OUGHT to be keeping. I will be visiting my local pet stores today
t see if they can use any of the fry I've got.

I am an animal lover but this is my first go 'round with fish so
thank you for being patient with me. Just so you know, the
population after fry removal will consist of 1 mollie, 1 guppy, 1
plattie, 1 apple snail, 1 cory cat, and one otocinclus (sp?). I
would like to get one more cory cat and one more otocinclus because
they seem to do better in pairs but is that too many fish for my
tank? Will there be a problem if there is only one of each?

Again, forgive my ignorance and thanks for your help.

Camille

On Oct 14, 2007, at 9:51 PM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:

> A 10G tank has limited stocking capabilities, most of which you are
> violating. ;-)
>
> Here is a good stocking list for 10G tanks so you will see what you
> can/should have compared to what you do have.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of camillenmx
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:43 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with too many fish
>
> I am new to keeping fish as pets so please bear with me. My school
> gave my 3
> year old a pair of guppies (long story) and they managed to survive
> for
> almost a year in a really simple tank set-up. The male died and the
> female
> gave birth to 14 fry. I decide to get a planted tank because the
> one they
> were in seemed way too small so I went from a 3 gallon gravel bottom,
> plastic plant number to a 10 gallon planted tank.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24379 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/15/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
What kind of Cory http://fish.mongabay.com/corydoradinae.htm and Oto do you
have? I don't have a link for a list of common oto's.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Camille Collins
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 1:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Newbie with too many fish

Dear Lenny,

Thank you. I visited the blog you mentioned and read about the fish I OUGHT
to be keeping. I will be visiting my local pet stores today t see if they
can use any of the fry I've got.

I am an animal lover but this is my first go 'round with fish so thank you
for being patient with me. Just so you know, the population after fry
removal will consist of 1 mollie, 1 guppy, 1 plattie, 1 apple snail, 1 cory
cat, and one otocinclus (sp?). I would like to get one more cory cat and one
more otocinclus because they seem to do better in pairs but is that too many
fish for my tank? Will there be a problem if there is only one of each?

Again, forgive my ignorance and thanks for your help.

Camille

On Oct 14, 2007, at 9:51 PM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:

> A 10G tank has limited stocking capabilities, most of which you are
> violating. ;-)
>
> Here is a good stocking list for 10G tanks so you will see what you
> can/should have compared to what you do have.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of camillenmx
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2007 8:43 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Newbie with too many fish
>
> I am new to keeping fish as pets so please bear with me. My school
> gave my 3 year old a pair of guppies (long story) and they managed to
> survive for almost a year in a really simple tank set-up. The male
> died and the female gave birth to 14 fry. I decide to get a planted
> tank because the one they were in seemed way too small so I went from
> a 3 gallon gravel bottom, plastic plant number to a 10 gallon planted
> tank.

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9:22 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24380 From: Camille Collins Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
Ok Lenny,

Cory is palea or paleatus, got two different names for the same fish
at the site you sent me to. The oto is otocinclus affinis of the
dwarf variety. This is my second oto as the last one "jumped" out of
the tank (I think I had it too full.) It currently measures 2" from
nose to tail and I am amazed at how quickly it grew. I got it when
it was less than an inch long and that little sucker doubled in size
in less than two months. It hasn't grown in the last three, so I'm
assuming this is as big as it's going to get. My Biggest Cory is
almost 1" and I have had him since May.

Camille
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24381 From: jasondanielrobert Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Bloated Angelfish
I have a four year angelfish. She was fine until three days ago when
she started breathing heavier and not eating very well. Her stomach
is getting larger everyday. I thought she was constipated so I have
started to feed her peas.

Please help me help her.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24382 From: John Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Australian Rainbow Help
I've seen Australian Rainbows on sale recently and I'm wondering if
anyone has any advice about keeping them. What size tank would be
acceptable for a small group of these fish? I'd like to try these guys
for the first time but want to be prepared. Thanks for any help.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24383 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
You didn't include any of the previous thread in the reply, so I'm having to
go from memory, but if I recall correctly, you have a 10G tank with a few
other fish. If the cory is supposed to stay under 3" as a full grown
adult, then it would be OK in a 10G. For fish that stay under 3" as full
grown adults, you can usually use the so-called 1" per gallon rule. This is
the only time that so-called rule can be used... for most fish that stay
under 3" as adults. In your case, if the Cory is supposed to stay under 3",
then you should add up the total expected adult sized inches and as long as
that is under 10", you should be OK. There are exceptions for a 10G tank
since some fish, even fish under 3" are much too active (but Corys and Otos
are usually not as active) so the 10G stocking list on my blog should be
used as a reference.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Camille Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 1:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with too many fish

Ok Lenny,

Cory is palea or paleatus, got two different names for the same fish at the
site you sent me to. The oto is otocinclus affinis of the dwarf variety.
This is my second oto as the last one "jumped" out of the tank (I think I
had it too full.) It currently measures 2" from nose to tail and I am amazed
at how quickly it grew. I got it when it was less than an inch long and that
little sucker doubled in size in less than two months. It hasn't grown in
the last three, so I'm assuming this is as big as it's going to get. My
Biggest Cory is almost 1" and I have had him since May.

Camille


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5:55 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24384 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Bloated Angelfish
It's likely an internal bacterial or parasitic infection/infestation. You
should but it in a Q-tank (unless it's in a tank by itself) and start
treatment. Have you been able to observe it's poop? That will generally
tell you whether it's constipation or bacterial or parasitic.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of jasondanielrobert
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 5:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Bloated Angelfish

I have a four year angelfish. She was fine until three days ago when she
started breathing heavier and not eating very well. Her stomach is getting
larger everyday. I thought she was constipated so I have started to feed her
peas.

Please help me help her.

Thanks






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.14.12/1072 - Release Date: 10/15/2007
5:55 PM



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5:55 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24385 From: Tim Fairchild Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Australian Rainbow Help
On Wednesday 17 October 2007 09:48, John wrote:
> I've seen Australian Rainbows on sale recently and I'm wondering if
> anyone has any advice about keeping them. What size tank would be
> acceptable for a small group of these fish? I'd like to try these guys
> for the first time but want to be prepared. Thanks for any help.

Rainbows are easy to keep and a nice clean fish. I keep 6-8 melanotaenia
splendida splendida, which are local to my area, in a 190litre tank. They
spawned in the tank last year and so there are actually 12 in the main
rainbow tank at the moment. They appear to thrive in pH over 8+ no problem.
We have very hard water. They do just as well in soft lower pH as well. The
fry were raised in slightly softer water early on, but that's just as we had
rainwater at the time and mixed that with the harder water to get a nice
balance. The water tends to be warm here in the tropics, and they probably
prefer that. I let the tank temp vary according to the season here and it
ranges from 22C and lower in winter up to over 30C in summer as it gets very
hot here. Filtration is by canister, tho I used trickle in the past and even
HOB way way back 30 years ago. They are quite clean, so it's not an overly
big deal. I have problems with fungus here with the guys (and you see it in
the wild as well) unless I use small amounts of salt in the tank. A rate of 1
gram per litre does the job. This is likely due to the tropical heat. In the
wild they spend much of the year downstream toward the tidal areas and larger
water holes and then move upstream in the wet season to spawn.

I've had rainbows in that 190l tank for 30 years off and on. They are a very
cool fish. They also live quite a long time. Not sure of expected life span,
but certainly 6 years or more in a tank.

I lost my big male last year, but there is a pic of him still on wikipedia.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eastern_Rainbowfish

tim

--
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tim Fairchild
Atchafalaya Border Collies.
Kuttabul, Queensland, Australia.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Email mailto:tim@...
Homepage http://www.bcs4me.com
Photos http://www.pbase.com/amosf
Blog http://bcs4me.com/blog
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Bcsr4ever
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24386 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: Re: Newbie with too many fish
It can be very difficult to discern the actual species of cory in cases.
There are many corys that seem to have twins, but are actually a
different species.

Most likely you have a paleatus, since they are pretty common in the
hobby.

However, for your purposes, choose the one that grows larger. An
under-stocked tank is better than an overstocked tank.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Camille Collins
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Newbie with too many fish

Ok Lenny,

Cory is palea or paleatus, got two different names for the same fish
at the site you sent me to. The oto is otocinclus affinis of the
dwarf variety. This is my second oto as the last one "jumped" out of
the tank (I think I had it too full.) It currently measures 2" from
nose to tail and I am amazed at how quickly it grew. I got it when
it was less than an inch long and that little sucker doubled in size
in less than two months. It hasn't grown in the last three, so I'm
assuming this is as big as it's going to get. My Biggest Cory is
almost 1" and I have had him since May.

Camille
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24387 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/16/2007
Subject: What kind of fish is this?
http://www.practicalfishkeeping.co.UK/pfk/pages/show_article
php?article_id=442

It looks like a long fin molly. Am I wrong?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24388 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Supplies are coming today!
My supplies are coming today! I will fill my tank with filtered water,
live sand, live rock and other rock. So, the process will be starting!!

I know it is a month down the road at least, so what would a good
clean-up crew consist of. I have a 75 gallon tank, and I don't want any
thing that will get real big. I like the reef environment, but I want to
have just a few fish and maybe a seahorse or two, a blenny, a star fish,
yellow headed jawfish, a plant or two. I want a peaceful environment,
where every one loves everyone! lol

Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24389 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Re: Supplies are coming today!
Jodie,

If you don't already know about the seahorse group on Yahoo (Ultimate Seahorse) check that out. they don't usually recommend putting seahorses in with other fish. They move to slowly and get out compteted for the food. But if you really want to, they may be able to help you out so you are successful.
Good luck!! :) Lisa

Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
My supplies are coming today! I will fill my tank with filtered water,
live sand, live rock and other rock. So, the process will be starting!!

I know it is a month down the road at least, so what would a good
clean-up crew consist of. I have a 75 gallon tank, and I don't want any
thing that will get real big. I like the reef environment, but I want to
have just a few fish and maybe a seahorse or two, a blenny, a star fish,
yellow headed jawfish, a plant or two. I want a peaceful environment,
where every one loves everyone! lol

Jodie





Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24390 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/17/2007
Subject: Re: Fish size reference source
When I am researching fish, I simply put the nameof the fish in the search section it will find lots of sites that have fish profiles on them. most of them list all the requirements for that species as well as adult size.

Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote: Does anyone know where I can find a reference or a site that will aid me
determining fish species size when full grown, to help me determine
which fish I will want in my tank?

Thanks,
Jodie





Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24391 From: Frog Dog Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: Supplies are coming today!
Thanks for the group name. I had read that about the seahorses. I love
so many different critters, I'm going crazy trying to choose what I
want. Fish are neat, but I want to watch critters in action, and have a
busy little marine town.

Lisa Rambo wrote:
>
> Jodie,
>
> If you don't already know about the seahorse group on Yahoo (Ultimate
> Seahorse) check that out. they don't usually recommend putting
> seahorses in with other fish. They move to slowly and get out
> compteted for the food. But if you really want to, they may be able to
> help you out so you are successful.
> Good luck!! :) Lisa
>
> Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> My supplies are coming today! I will fill my tank with filtered water,
> live sand, live rock and other rock. So, the process will be starting!!
>
> I know it is a month down the road at least, so what would a good
> clean-up crew consist of. I have a 75 gallon tank, and I don't want any
> thing that will get real big. I like the reef environment, but I want to
> have just a few fish and maybe a seahorse or two, a blenny, a star fish,
> yellow headed jawfish, a plant or two. I want a peaceful environment,
> where every one loves everyone! lol
>
> Jodie
>
> Be who you are and say what you feel,
> because those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind.
> -Dr. Seuss
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail. yahoo.com <http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24392 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: What kind of fish is this?
That fish is a long-finned variatus (sometimes listed as 'high-finned)
Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24393 From: CP Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Waterfall
I want to change my 50 gal aquarium to a half land / half water setup
with a waterfall. I tried it before, but it didnt work out too well.
The water was always dark and murky. Does anyone have any experience
with this kink of set-up?

Thanks

Craig
www.stealthcamzone.com <http://www.stealthcamzone.com>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24394 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/18/2007
Subject: Re: Waterfall
What was your substrate. and your the flow of your output. How many gallons
per hour.


In a message dated 10/18/2007 6:30:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
capg163@... writes:





I want to change my 50 gal aquarium to a half land / half water setup
with a waterfall. I tried it before, but it didnt work out too well.
The water was always dark and murky. Does anyone have any experience
with this kink of set-up?

Thanks

Craig
www.stealthcamzone.www.<_http://www.stealthchttp://www_
(http://www.stealthcamzone.com/) >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24395 From: jviswakula Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: New Memeber
Hello All,

My name is Jinen and I am a betta keeper and I use to keep different
type of fish.. Now I am the administrator of www.finvillage.com, the
Aquarium and aquaculture social and business networking website. Come
and check it out.. hope to see this group's webpage over there...

Jinen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24396 From: nkahnert Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: help, yellow algae
help, I have yellow aglae of some sort> Is there web site for algae ID
or what fish freshwater algae can eat any type of algae ?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24397 From: daniel_balaj Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: question
hello to all of you

im from Romania and im at the beginnings of growing fishes

I want to know if is anyone willing to help me with some advices.
My fishes are: caras, guppy, xifo and molly

have a great day
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24398 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/19/2007
Subject: Re: help, yellow algae
I'm not familiar with a yellow algae. Could it be brownish colored? Is
your tank recently set up? If so, new tanks will often have an temporary
issue with diatoms caused by the amount of silicates in the water (and
sometimes leaching from the new silicone, substrate, decorations, etc.) that
are not being utilized by the tanks ecosystem as it matures. Diatoms are
sometimes called brown algae and I think diatoms can come in other
tannish-brownish colors also. If it definitely is yellow, it could be some
kind of mold or fungus growing. Where is it growing?

Here's all of the sites I have for algae identification and treatment
starting with Diatoms first.

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/algae/diatoms.shtml (Diatoms)

http://thalassa.gso.uri.edu/ESphyto/sizeshap/shape.htm (Diatoms)

http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

http://www.freewebs.com/thefishgirl/algea.htm

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/hair-algae.html

Let us know which of these looks most like what you have and we'll try to
help more.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of nkahnert
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2007 8:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] help, yellow algae

help, I have yellow aglae of some sort> Is there web site for algae ID or
what fish freshwater algae can eat any type of algae ?






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5:47 PM



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5:47 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24399 From: chris nuttall Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: is it white-spot, velvet or both?
Is it White-spot, Velvet, or both?

I have three fresh water tropical tanks
One 45 litre shallow tank for growing on corydoras and Ancistrus fry
One 70 litre tank which will be home to my Ancistrus so they can
breed in peace, but currently houses an assortment of tetras.
One 170 litre heavily planted tank with a large piece of mopani wood
and 2" deep, fine gravel, which is my `show tank' , and contains;

2 ancistrus (7 years old)
3 albino corydoras(1 year old – 1.5" long)
3 clown loaches (5 years old - 3" long)
2 upside down catfish (5 years old – 2" long)
1 whiptail catfish(7 years old) – 4 " long)
2 siamese flying foxes (2 years old – 3" long)
8 congo tetras (6 months old – 2" long)
6 bleeding heart tetras (1 year old – 1.5" long)

Nitrites 0
Nitrates 0
Ph 7.2
Gh 160
Kh 140
Temp 24 (75)

(the tap water is virtually the same as my aquarium)

I have not lost a fish in four years (and hardly had any illnesses
at all), the catfish are spawning regularly and I successfully raise
the fry and sell them. All the other fish were in peak condition and
regularly display courtship behaviour.

I feed flake food and catfish pellets once a day, with frozen
bloodworm and brineshrimp once or twice a week, and the odd garden
pea or courgette for the catfish.

I don't use CO2, the light is on a timer for 10 hours a day, and I
use a liquid plant food once a week

Waterchanges are once a week and I change roughly 12%, gently
cleaning the filter.
For several months I have not gravel vac'd much of the substrate as
all the bottom-feeding fish and numerous malasian trumpet snails
keep it pretty clean and the plants are fairly thick.
I use cold treated water to re-fill the aquarium which helps to
trigger spawning.

For several weeks I have noticed one fish or another flash against a
plant or rock – just once, every now and then. So I have been
watching closely for white-spot, but seen nothing else to signify
its presence.

About four weeks ago one of my albino corydoras suddenly became ill.
She developed blood under the skin on her back and became very
listless.
I removed her to one of the tubs I use for newly hatched fry, and
went to the cupboard for my interpet anti-internal bacteria
treatment. The bottle was empty – it had all leaked out. Wondering
what to do I decided to briefly bath her in Methylene blue and then
add some human amoxicillin to the water in her tub (this was the
first time I had tried doing this – and you cannot buy fishmox in
the UK)
The next day she was the same, I went out and bought some interpet
anti-internal bacteria treatment, changed her water and added the
medication. Over the next couple of days she got worse, lost all
ability to balance or swim and her skin and fins began to rot badly –
eventually I put her out of her misery using a 25% dose of top
quality Gin which I have read about on the web (again something I
have never had to do before, she died pretty peacefully 30 minutes
later)

Still thinking this was a bacterial infection I treated the show
tank just to be safe.

Two weeks went by with no further illness, then I started noticing
an increase in the number of visible trumpet snails in the tank and
I realised I had not seen the clown loaches for a couple of days,
then I saw white salt-grain sized spots on the bleeding-heart
tetras – just a few, mostly on the tails.
Thinking I knew what was going on I did a 30% waterchange (warming
the added water) and dosed the tank with interpet anti white-spot,
which I got from my cupboard.
I increased the temperature to about 80 degrees, and turned off the
light.
The medicine must have been four years old and after a couple of
days it became clear it had had little or no effect. I went out and
bought a new bottle and on day four of the treatment I added a full
dose of the new stuff. By now all the bleeding heart tetras were
badly covered in salt-grain white spots and were hanging near the
surface, not eating and clamping their fins, their gills and mouths
were moving very fast, and some were developing secondary bacterial
infections, I added 250 milligrams of amoxicillin to the tank to try
and combat the infections.
The clown loaches were now out of their hiding place but looking
very ill although they had only one or two white spots each, they
actually looked more like they had got velvet, but it was very
subtle.
The next morning two of the tetras were dead.Next day two more died,
and the last two died the following day.

By now I was wondering if it could all be velvet and maybe it just
looked like white-spot on the bleeding heart tetras? Could that have
been why neither dose of white spot medication seemed to help?
I did a 50% water change and added a carbon filter for 24 hours, the
next day I did a 30% water change, removed the carbon and treated
the tank for velvet (again using interpet product)
The clown loaches were listless, not eating, not moving around much
and by now looking pretty velvety, they were breathing fast, and
lying around on the gravel.
They also had a couple of the white-spots each here and there.
Two days later and two of them were dead.
As I write this the last one is lying on the gravel upside down
looking as though it will die. It is four days since I added the
velvet meds, I have just done a 50% waterchange and thoroughly vac'd
the gravel (I read on the web that by removing as many spores from
the gravel as possible you help to halt the progress of the
parasite – makes sense once you think of it)
I have re-filled the tank using warm water and added a half-strength
dose of velvet medication

Up til now none of the other fish have been affected at all, however
one (not both) of my upside down catfish is now covered all over in
small (salt-grain size) yellow blobs – not spheres like with the
white-spot, more like tiny pustules. Could this be another way for
velvet to manifest itself?


Can anyone please tell me the following……

What do you think was wrong with the original corydoras?
The bleeding heart tetras?
The clown loaches?
And now the upside down catfish?

Could this have all been velvet?
Do you think I had velvet and white spot all at once?
Why does none of the medication I have used seem to have worked?

What can I do to stop this now?

Thanks for any help


Chris Nuttall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24400 From: Blue fish Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: View latest videos of Marine animals
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24401 From: coryswalter Date: 10/20/2007
Subject: Freshwater to Saltwater
I have purchased a complete, used freshwater 55 gal aquarium....it has
all of the filters, lights, gravel.....everything but the plastic
plants that were in it.......we want to make this a living reef. Can
we use any/all of the things currently with the aquarium or do I need
to replace any/all of it? Also, what is the best living things to
start with if only a few things can be purchased in the beginning?
Thanks in advance for help.......Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24402 From: chris nuttall Date: 10/21/2007
Subject: Re: is it white-spot, velvet or both?
NITRATES 30ppm NOT ZERO.....sorry
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24403 From: bobbyhayden Date: 10/21/2007
Subject: Announcing GiveaDamForSalmon.org and a nationwide comment campaign!
Attention Fish Folk!

The Save Our Wild Salmon Coalition has launched a national comment
campaign regarding wild salmon in the Columbia & Snake Rivers. This
watershed was once home to the largest runs of salmon and steelhead in
the world. Fast-forward to today: all runs of wild salmon and steelhead
on the Snake River are either extinct or listed under the Endangered
Species Act.

Take 2 Quick Actions to help restore these majestic fish:

#1 : Go to http://www.GiveaDamForSalmon.org
<http://www.giveadamforsalmon.org>

Sign on to the comment drive!

#2 : Distribute this Message to all friends, family, and colleagues
across the country.

Ask them to take part in this national campaign and spread the message
far and wide.

Thanks so much for your involvement!

-Bobby
Save Our Wild Salmon Coalition
bobby at wildsalmon.org





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24404 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: What kind of fish is this?
Variatus? Is that a scientific name? It kinda looks like a molly to me. Can
you shed more light on the subject?

-------Original Message-------

From: mosquitokr2002
Date: 10/18/2007 3:33:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: What kind of fish is this?


That fish is a long-finned variatus (sometimes listed as 'high-finned)
Tom



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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24405 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Question please.
I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia lots of them.
The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of fish can
I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I have a
floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and there are
lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of babies. I
have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the gravel. I know
that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the daphnia?

Thanks,
Rei

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24406 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Hi all
well the pond pump got sorted,
Now I am rerouting some of the plumbing.
The question is I want to save on cost & use some copper & brass
fittings I have to hand without having to buy plastic. Is such toxic to
my goldfish & wild life etc?
I know my water innitially comes thro copper pipes in the domestic
supply when I dont use rainwater. But that is once , in my pond system
it would be continually recycling. The one copper fitting I have used
on an ornamental waterfeature, A huge snail shell, I painted inside for
safety, but that was only 3" long. My feeling & vague residue of
previous knowledge is that it is more of a problem for warmer waters,
tropicals. Am I correct?
Regards
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24407 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Daphnia seem to NOT like salt so you could raise the salinity level in your
tank to 0.3% (0.3% = three level teaspoons of salt per gallon but starting
with one teaspoon per gallon and then repeating the dose every 12 hours
until you reach the 0.3% mark)
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/salt.shtml which will inhibit
the further growth of the daphnia and will slowly kill them off. I'm
guessing the floating breeding grass is plastic or silk since you say that
you wash it with hot water. You should also vacuum your gravel during PWC's
to remove more of the detritus, some of which the daphnia are feeding on.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question please.

I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia lots of them.
The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of fish can
I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I have a
floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and there are
lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of babies. I
have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the gravel. I know
that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the daphnia?

Thanks,
Rei

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24408 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Copper is a no-no IMO. While our water supply may come through copper pipes
at some point, as you pointed out, it's not constantly recycling through the
pipe. Further, our water supply from a public utility is typically treated
with buffers (calcium, etc.) to raise the pH and these buffers build up on
the insides of the pipe over time so the water usually doesn't make contact
with the copper after several years of buildup. Most likely, you won't have
this buildup in your pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Don Foxlow
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 6:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Hi all
well the pond pump got sorted,
Now I am rerouting some of the plumbing.
The question is I want to save on cost & use some copper & brass fittings I
have to hand without having to buy plastic. Is such toxic to my goldfish &
wild life etc?
I know my water innitially comes thro copper pipes in the domestic supply
when I dont use rainwater. But that is once , in my pond system it would be
continually recycling. The one copper fitting I have used on an ornamental
waterfeature, A huge snail shell, I painted inside for safety, but that was
only 3" long. My feeling & vague residue of previous knowledge is that it is
more of a problem for warmer waters, tropicals. Am I correct?
Regards
Don


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24409 From: William Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
I have been trying to raise daphnia without success. If you wish to
send me any that you catch I will be happy to pay for the shipping.
I am surprised that your guppies are not eating them. Maybe you are
over feeding your guppies and that is why they are not eating the
daphnia. The excess food would then become food for daphnia.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia
lots of them.
> The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of
fish can
> I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I
have a
> floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and
there are
> lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of
babies. I
> have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the
gravel. I know
> that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the
daphnia?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24410 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Yep, Copper is a no no. It will continue to leach and
with it being on a cycle, it seems to me, the levels
would rise higher. Especially with a pond, treating
for something is expensive, invest now, or you may end
up paying for it in the long.
Happy swimming :)
S
--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Copper is a no-no IMO. While our water supply may
> come through copper pipes
> at some point, as you pointed out, it's not
> constantly recycling through the
> pipe. Further, our water supply from a public
> utility is typically treated
> with buffers (calcium, etc.) to raise the pH and
> these buffers build up on
> the insides of the pipe over time so the water
> usually doesn't make contact
> with the copper after several years of buildup.
> Most likely, you won't have
> this buildup in your pond.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Don Foxlow
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 6:24 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Copper piping - Poisonous or
> not
>
> Hi all
> well the pond pump got sorted,
> Now I am rerouting some of the plumbing.
> The question is I want to save on cost & use some
> copper & brass fittings I
> have to hand without having to buy plastic. Is such
> toxic to my goldfish &
> wild life etc?
> I know my water innitially comes thro copper pipes
> in the domestic supply
> when I dont use rainwater. But that is once , in my
> pond system it would be
> continually recycling. The one copper fitting I have
> used on an ornamental
> waterfeature, A huge snail shell, I painted inside
> for safety, but that was
> only 3" long. My feeling & vague residue of previous
> knowledge is that it is
> more of a problem for warmer waters, tropicals. Am I
> correct?
> Regards
> Don
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 -
> Release Date: 10/21/2007
> 3:09 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24411 From: crazycritterz5 Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: New to Group
Hello Everyone,
My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend along with some
goldfish and another fish ( not sure what it is). Unfortunally I had
no luck with the goldfish. I had a tank before along time ago and
seemed I couldn't keep goldfish at that time either. Anyways,
lastnight I tore down my tank and cleaned it , scrubbed all the
decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle water safe plus and put
in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp. at 74 degrees
Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory catfish and some
ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What I was wondering
is if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the right temp for
these fish? I am trying to learn everything I can about keeping my
fish healthy. We do not have a pet store in our area ( closest is
1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or Meijers for my
information. I am not sure they are giving me the right advice. I
have looked on the internet for information , but there is so many
different version of what people think you should do. So, I decided
to join your group with people that have experience with fish. I
just want my fish to be healthy. The first thing I do when I get
home at night ( work afternoons) is turn on the light for my tank
and sit and watch the fish swim around for about 45 minutes. It is
so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would greatly appreciate.
Thank you all for your time :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24412 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Hi welcome to water world :)
I am new to this site too, and I have a SWT, but
having common interests of keeping our fish healthy.
What the biggest help to me was, when I first started
I did a LOT of reading and asking questions, such as
you are doing now :)
Can I suggest this book
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4538+4539+9963&pcatid=9963
Next suggestion, never trust cpmpletely what a person
at a LFS (Live fish store)tells you.
Ask for someone elses opinion before deciding on a
course of action. Remember LFS WANTS to sell you
something, it may not be what you need.
Next suggestion, ok, I hope I don't walk on someone's
shoes with this comment.
NEVER buy fish from Walmart or big box chain. These
stores have absolutely no understanding of the care of
fish, and it shows in diseased or weakend stock. The
person caring for these animals is some teen kid after
school, etc.
Ask before medicating, too much of a good thing is a
bad thing. It can result in drug resistant bactria.
OK, so that is my suggestion, lol long way of saying
to buy that book, because I don't know freshwater.
Just how I am learning in salt.
Happy swimming~
SH
--- crazycritterz5 <crazycritterz5@...> wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
> My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend
> along with some
> goldfish and another fish ( not sure what it is).
> Unfortunally I had
> no luck with the goldfish. I had a tank before along
> time ago and
> seemed I couldn't keep goldfish at that time either.
> Anyways,
> lastnight I tore down my tank and cleaned it ,
> scrubbed all the
> decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle water
> safe plus and put
> in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp.
> at 74 degrees
> Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory
> catfish and some
> ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What
> I was wondering
> is if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the
> right temp for
> these fish? I am trying to learn everything I can
> about keeping my
> fish healthy. We do not have a pet store in our area
> ( closest is
> 1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or
> Meijers for my
> information. I am not sure they are giving me the
> right advice. I
> have looked on the internet for information , but
> there is so many
> different version of what people think you should
> do. So, I decided
> to join your group with people that have experience
> with fish. I
> just want my fish to be healthy. The first thing I
> do when I get
> home at night ( work afternoons) is turn on the
> light for my tank
> and sit and watch the fish swim around for about 45
> minutes. It is
> so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
> greatly appreciate.
> Thank you all for your time :)
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24413 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Hi Brenda,

Do you have a master test kit yet? If not, you should get one. A decent
one that seems readily available is from API - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Inc.
and it has the basic test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH & GH.
The last two aren't critical but are helpful. The first four are necessary.
If you already have a master test kit, you should be doing daily or frequent
testing of your tank for the next month or two until it completes the
nitrogen cycle. Go to my blog to my article called "A to Z of Fish Keeping"
and take one or both of the online tutorials so you will understand the
basic chemistry and biology that goes into keeping fish long term. More
than likely, your lack of knowledge on the nitrogen cycle is what has been
causing you to lose fish in the past. It's the number one mistake for new
fish keepers.

In hindsight, it would have been better to fishless cycle your new tank to
make it ready but since you have already added fish, you are now stuck with
"Cycling With Fish" so the daily or frequent testing must be done to keep
the ammonia/nitrite levels low enough not to harm your new fish.

One last note... fish like a regular light schedule that mimics
daylight/night so it's not good to turn on their lights for a short period
of time after it has been dark. If you like to spend time with your fish
after you get home at night, you should slowly change their lighting
schedule so that your tank stays lit 8-10 hours and is on when you get home
from work and then goes out an hour or so after you get home. You might
have to use a timer to get this to work for you. I also don't think fish
like to go from total darkness to bright lights in an instant since the sun
doesn't work that way either. You might want to first turn on a room light
and give them a little while with mild lighting before turning on the tank
lights. Same with going back to dark. Turn off the tank lights while a
room light is on and then after a little while, turn off the room light.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to Group

Hello Everyone,
My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend along with some goldfish
and another fish ( not sure what it is). Unfortunally I had no luck with the
goldfish. I had a tank before along time ago and seemed I couldn't keep
goldfish at that time either. Anyways, lastnight I tore down my tank and
cleaned it , scrubbed all the decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle
water safe plus and put in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp.
at 74 degrees Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory catfish and
some ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What I was wondering is
if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the right temp for these fish?
I am trying to learn everything I can about keeping my fish healthy. We do
not have a pet store in our area ( closest is
1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or Meijers for my
information. I am not sure they are giving me the right advice. I have
looked on the internet for information , but there is so many different
version of what people think you should do. So, I decided to join your group
with people that have experience with fish. I just want my fish to be
healthy. The first thing I do when I get home at night ( work afternoons) is
turn on the light for my tank and sit and watch the fish swim around for
about 45 minutes. It is so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
greatly appreciate.
Thank you all for your time :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24414 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
This is great information except that I disagree with the generalization
NEVER buying fish from a bog box chain or Wal-Mart. I think that you need to
read as many sources as you can and talk with people. Visit LFS's and look
at their fish, their tanks and talk with people who work there. You'll soon
learn which stores have the best fish, which sales people in the stores are
good and which don't know anything about fish and are just trying to sell
you stuff. I visit several Wal-Mart's around me. A couple I avoid and
thankfully 1 of them is no longer selling fish. One of the Wal-Mart's has
staff who know more than 1 of my LFS'S and I trust their information and
their fish.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stacey Riga" <sagirkennel@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 3:39 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New to Group


> Hi welcome to water world :)
> I am new to this site too, and I have a SWT, but
> having common interests of keeping our fish healthy.
> What the biggest help to me was, when I first started
> I did a LOT of reading and asking questions, such as
> you are doing now :)
> Can I suggest this book
> http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4538+4539+9963&pcatid=9963
> Next suggestion, never trust cpmpletely what a person
> at a LFS (Live fish store)tells you.
> Ask for someone elses opinion before deciding on a
> course of action. Remember LFS WANTS to sell you
> something, it may not be what you need.
> Next suggestion, ok, I hope I don't walk on someone's
> shoes with this comment.
> NEVER buy fish from Walmart or big box chain. These
> stores have absolutely no understanding of the care of
> fish, and it shows in diseased or weakend stock. The
> person caring for these animals is some teen kid after
> school, etc.
> Ask before medicating, too much of a good thing is a
> bad thing. It can result in drug resistant bactria.
> OK, so that is my suggestion, lol long way of saying
> to buy that book, because I don't know freshwater.
> Just how I am learning in salt.
> Happy swimming~
> SH
> --- crazycritterz5 <crazycritterz5@...> wrote:
>
>> Hello Everyone,
>> My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend
>> along with some
>> goldfish and another fish ( not sure what it is).
>> Unfortunally I had
>> no luck with the goldfish. I had a tank before along
>> time ago and
>> seemed I couldn't keep goldfish at that time either.
>> Anyways,
>> lastnight I tore down my tank and cleaned it ,
>> scrubbed all the
>> decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle water
>> safe plus and put
>> in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp.
>> at 74 degrees
>> Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory
>> catfish and some
>> ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What
>> I was wondering
>> is if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the
>> right temp for
>> these fish? I am trying to learn everything I can
>> about keeping my
>> fish healthy. We do not have a pet store in our area
>> ( closest is
>> 1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or
>> Meijers for my
>> information. I am not sure they are giving me the
>> right advice. I
>> have looked on the internet for information , but
>> there is so many
>> different version of what people think you should
>> do. So, I decided
>> to join your group with people that have experience
>> with fish. I
>> just want my fish to be healthy. The first thing I
>> do when I get
>> home at night ( work afternoons) is turn on the
>> light for my tank
>> and sit and watch the fish swim around for about 45
>> minutes. It is
>> so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
>> greatly appreciate.
>> Thank you all for your time :)
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24415 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Where are you from and would the daphnia be able to survive the trip? I don
t have a fish bag to put them in. All I have to do is just take out the
floating breeding grass and there are like about 50 or so. If I put ez
balance and aqua safe, you can see them moving in the gravel and actually
come out of the gravel. I've got like 5 adult female and lots of babies (not
newly born), and some newly born ones or about a day or so guppies. Dunno
how many males I have. Also, I don't have time to go to the post office yet.
Just give me your addy and I will just send you when I have time. My daphnia
came with the plants I bought before I think and it just got out of control.


-------Original Message-------

From: William
Date: 10/22/2007 5:06:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please.

I have been trying to raise daphnia without success. If you wish to
send me any that you catch I will be happy to pay for the shipping.
I am surprised that your guppies are not eating them. Maybe you are
over feeding your guppies and that is why they are not eating the
daphnia. The excess food would then become food for daphnia.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia
lots of them.
> The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of
fish can
> I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I
have a
> floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and
there are
> lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of
babies. I
> have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the
gravel. I know
> that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the
daphnia?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24416 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Hi Stacey & Lenny,
Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.

Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)

" Happy swimming :)"

Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my
wheelchair :-))
Regards
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24417 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please.
Actually, you can use a plain water bottle for shipping small things like
that. Someone out here or on one of my other groups sends/receives shrimp
in the pint sized water bottles with some live guppy or java grass or
something in the bottle to help with the ecology and to give the critters
something to hold onto during the trip. Even a small piece of plastic
"grass" would have some of the N-bacteria living on it to convert the
ammonia/nitrite during the shipping process. Live grass would also eat up
any nitrates and provide some O2.

On a side note, I'm not sure you should be using that easy-balance stuff
from Tetra. Do some research on it. It advertises to people that they
don't have to do PWC's except every six months and it adds some really rough
chemicals into your tank... like formaldehyde and some kind of acid. I
forget off the top of my head. IMO, any product that tries to promote not
doing regular PWC's is a bad product for our fish. Not doing PWC's leaves
our fish swimming around in their own waste for far too long.

Here is a snip from a recent post I made about Tetra Easy Balance...

"The Tetra Easy Balance with Nitraban stuff is made up of various acids and
bases and then topped off with formaldehyde. You can view the MSDS on this
chemical by going to Walmart.com and clicking on the MSDS link at the
bottom, then searching for it. It was the only place I could find the MSDS
on this stuff. I think Tetra tried hard to hide it completely and is in
violation of law or at least in violation of consumer ethics, by not having
it available on their website. In another forum, I made a sarcastic comment
about how the acids and bases counteract each other while killing the fish
and then the formaldehyde preserves them so they look alive while getting
moved around by the filter current. :-D"

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please.

Where are you from and would the daphnia be able to survive the trip? I don
t have a fish bag to put them in. All I have to do is just take out the
floating breeding grass and there are like about 50 or so. If I put ez
balance and aqua safe, you can see them moving in the gravel and actually
come out of the gravel. I've got like 5 adult female and lots of babies (not
newly born), and some newly born ones or about a day or so guppies. Dunno
how many males I have. Also, I don't have time to go to the post office yet.
Just give me your addy and I will just send you when I have time. My daphnia
came with the plants I bought before I think and it just got out of control.


-------Original Message-------

From: William
Date: 10/22/2007 5:06:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please.

I have been trying to raise daphnia without success. If you wish to send me
any that you catch I will be happy to pay for the shipping.
I am surprised that your guppies are not eating them. Maybe you are over
feeding your guppies and that is why they are not eating the daphnia. The
excess food would then become food for daphnia.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia
lots of them.
> The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of
fish can
> I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I
have a
> floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and
there are
> lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of
babies. I
> have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the
gravel. I know
> that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the
daphnia?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24418 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Question please (now about Easy Balance from Tetra)
Here is another of my posts in another forum about Easy Balance... (I did a
Google Desktop search of my computer and found it... thanks Google!)

Here is a snip from Tetra's website information on their product...

"Tetra Easy Balance: Change 50-75% of your aquarium water at least once
every 6 months, provided Easy Balance® has been added as recommended and the
aquarium is other wise properly maintained."

When I first heard about Tetra Easy Balance a couple of years ago, I was
very leery about the fact that it was advertising that people could go six
months without doing a partial water change... a MAJOR piece of BAD ADVICE,
IMO. I don't think that any company involved in the fish keeping industry
should be giving that kind of advice while promoting weekly dosing of their
chemical compound.

I kept trying to find out what was in the product and it took quite a while
to find the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) on the product since Tetra
does not make it available on their website. I eventually found the MSDS on
WalMart.com as they have the MSDS' for all products that they sell available
on their website... which is what all companies are supposed to do.

Here is the link to the Walmart.com MSDS for Tetra Easy Balance.
http://msds.walmartstores.com/cache/2258_1.pdf

Here is a snip from the MSDS
"dangerous components:"
Sodium Hydroxide (up to) 2.5%
Tartaric Acid (up to) 2.5%
Formaldehyde (up to) 2.5%

The other ingredients are Sucrose and Water (89.4%) and an undisclosed 3.1%
of something.. or maybe it's 3.1% Sucrose but the MSDS doesn't clarify what
the missing 3.1% is made up of.

I am still unsure whether this is the MSDS for Tetra Easy Balance with
Nitraban or an earlier version of EB (without Nitraban if there was such a
version) as I have not been able to find an MSDS with the "full name"
listed... only "Easy Balance".

The other potentially very serious negative about the product is that the
"nitraban" is actually some kind of little pellet that gets distributed into
the gravel and then these pellets dissolve. If you have foraging fish like
goldfish, certain cichlids, etc., they could easily ingest these pellets and
who knows what kinds of side effects that would have on the long term health
of the fish.

As I previously stated, there is a forum thread that I read a while back
about a guppy tank where the guppies did not breed or have babies once
during the time of the Easy Balance dosing on the tank.

Hope this helps.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rei - Raymond Tremor
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 4:19 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please.

Where are you from and would the daphnia be able to survive the trip? I don
t have a fish bag to put them in. All I have to do is just take out the
floating breeding grass and there are like about 50 or so. If I put ez
balance and aqua safe, you can see them moving in the gravel and actually
come out of the gravel. I've got like 5 adult female and lots of babies (not
newly born), and some newly born ones or about a day or so guppies. Dunno
how many males I have. Also, I don't have time to go to the post office yet.
Just give me your addy and I will just send you when I have time. My daphnia
came with the plants I bought before I think and it just got out of control.


-------Original Message-------

From: William
Date: 10/22/2007 5:06:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Question please.

I have been trying to raise daphnia without success. If you wish to send me
any that you catch I will be happy to pay for the shipping.
I am surprised that your guppies are not eating them. Maybe you are over
feeding your guppies and that is why they are not eating the daphnia. The
excess food would then become food for daphnia.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Rei - Raymond Tremor"
<lovemoako@...> wrote:
>
> I have guppies in my tank and it also is infested with daphnia
lots of them.
> The guppies seem to be not interested in eating them, what kind of
fish can
> I add that will eat the daphnia and is compatible with guppies? I
have a
> floating (breeding grass) and I wash that with hot water daily and
there are
> lots of them. Some are even doing the nasty (coupling) and lots of
babies. I
> have fine gravel and I could see them moving underneath the
gravel. I know
> that Mollies and guppies go together but will the Mollies eat the
daphnia?
>
> Thanks,
> Rei

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24419 From: Andreas Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A


On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow <donhenry@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my
> wheelchair :-))
> Regards
> Don
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24420 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow <donhenry@...
<mailto:donhenry%40talktalk.net> > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>
>
>

[

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24421 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Don's pond
Don good luck with your pond. What size are you
building?

I hope I don't have a seizure and fall into my tank
while cleaning it, or I would actually be swimming
with the fishes ;) so far so good!~

Quote" Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often
especially in my
wheelchair :-))
Regards
Don" end quote
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24422 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Kudos Lenny
We may have different ends of the hobby, but I wanted
to tell you how impressed I am with your posts. You
give excellent advice, and research products before
putting them in your tank. The PWC are right on! No
product can take the place of that. It is the key to
healthy system. If it's polluted, dilute it. It will
lessen the use of med after med and another trying to
fix something, when learning good husbandry is the
most effective. The over use of medications will put
your tank at risk of drug resistant bacteria.
Keep up the good work, I look forward to more of your
posts, as both systems do have common variable.
Stacey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24423 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
I had typed a letter, and I hit a button and lost it!
gggrrrr
The gist. No, copper medicine is not used in a DT
saltwater system whether FO/fowlr/reef either of these
have invertabrate cleaner crews. As you stated pretty
much immidiate death for them. The copper is absorbed
by the rock and leachs, slowly for a looong time. Once
it is in a salt tank, everything would have to be
thrown away to start a reef system. (different
scenario I know) The use of such is adamentally
discouraged in the salt world. Copper does damage
fish. When it builds up, especially on a cycle, the
levels will rise to higher concentrations.
Now, copper medicines is one thing (in fresh)_
remember no no in salt, carbon is always used after to
absorb the heavy metals, in a fresh system. That is
why it is always recommended to use carbon after
treament.
lol, copper is such a no no in SWT I have an RO/DI to
filter my water to be mixed up. Because tap water has
traces of it.
But, like I said two different scenarios, but why risk
it during building.
stacey
--- Andreas <andreas1120@...> wrote:

> actually to be specific
>
> fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water
> world copper is routinely
> used as medicine....
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24424 From: 1 nice Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: why
why was no sting ray in fo given to me my ? was rejected
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24425 From: Jim Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Has anyone seen anything like this?
A few minutes ago I noticed that a 3" male Blue Gourami seemed stressed
as his color on the rear half of his body on the right side has faded
to nearly a white color. The right side is fine. I have posted pictures
of the fish in an album Greymane's Pics for you to compare. They were
taken within seconds of each other. I am thinking that a 5" blue female
has injured him trying to get him to breed. She was seen chasing him
several times today. I have removed him to another tank now hoping that
he will heal up. After 3 hours, nothing has changed with his
appearance, it is still the same on his right side. Can anyone offer
advice or information?

Grey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24426 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
My blue changes color when he is stressed out - during water changes or if my son is a little too friendly with the tank......he usually goes back to normal quickly though.....maybe moving him would stress him more?

Cynthia


----- Original Message -----
From: Jim
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:17 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone seen anything like this?


A few minutes ago I noticed that a 3" male Blue Gourami seemed stressed
as his color on the rear half of his body on the right side has faded
to nearly a white color. The right side is fine. I have posted pictures
of the fish in an album Greymane's Pics for you to compare. They were
taken within seconds of each other. I am thinking that a 5" blue female
has injured him trying to get him to breed. She was seen chasing him
several times today. I have removed him to another tank now hoping that
he will heal up. After 3 hours, nothing has changed with his
appearance, it is still the same on his right side. Can anyone offer
advice or information?

Grey





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24427 From: Jim Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
Thank you for responding Cynthia. What puzzles me is that the color
has faded on only the back half of the right side. I am used to
seeing loss of color when fish are stressed , but have never seen it
with only part of the body faded.

Grey
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:
>
> My blue changes color when he is stressed out - during water
changes or if my son is a little too friendly with the tank......he
usually goes back to normal quickly though.....maybe moving him would
stress him more?
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:17 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone seen anything like this?
>
>
> A few minutes ago I noticed that a 3" male Blue Gourami seemed
stressed
> as his color on the rear half of his body on the right side has
faded
> to nearly a white color. The right side is fine. I have posted
pictures
> of the fish in an album Greymane's Pics for you to compare. They
were
> taken within seconds of each other. I am thinking that a 5" blue
female
> has injured him trying to get him to breed. She was seen chasing
him
> several times today. I have removed him to another tank now
hoping that
> he will heal up. After 3 hours, nothing has changed with his
> appearance, it is still the same on his right side. Can anyone
offer
> advice or information?
>
> Grey
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24428 From: Frederic Ouellet Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?
I know, I thought my blue was dying the first time I saw it - he got one really dark spot around his eye and faded in another spot. It took me a while to get used to how he reacted to being annoyed or stressed, whatever it is! The bigger he gets the more I notice it as well.......I hope that is all it is for yours!

Cynthia

----- Original Message -----
From: Jim
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:29 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Has anyone seen anything like this?



Thank you for responding Cynthia. What puzzles me is that the color
has faded on only the back half of the right side. I am used to
seeing loss of color when fish are stressed , but have never seen it
with only part of the body faded.

Grey
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Frederic Ouellet"
<fcouellet@...> wrote:
>
> My blue changes color when he is stressed out - during water
changes or if my son is a little too friendly with the tank......he
usually goes back to normal quickly though.....maybe moving him would
stress him more?
>
> Cynthia
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Jim
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 9:17 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Has anyone seen anything like this?
>
>
> A few minutes ago I noticed that a 3" male Blue Gourami seemed
stressed
> as his color on the rear half of his body on the right side has
faded
> to nearly a white color. The right side is fine. I have posted
pictures
> of the fish in an album Greymane's Pics for you to compare. They
were
> taken within seconds of each other. I am thinking that a 5" blue
female
> has injured him trying to get him to breed. She was seen chasing
him
> several times today. I have removed him to another tank now
hoping that
> he will heal up. After 3 hours, nothing has changed with his
> appearance, it is still the same on his right side. Can anyone
offer
> advice or information?
>
> Grey
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24429 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: why
Are you sure it was rejected?

This post came through fine.

Sometimes people do not reply because they do not have an answer for you or
are waiting for someone more experienced to help.

Try reposting.

Mike

In a message dated 10/22/2007 6:01:11 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
nice6669@... writes:

why was no sting ray in fo given to me my ? was rejected






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24430 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
First off, the copper is only in your home, and, generally, it probably
is not a complete install of copper to carry your water, especially if
you have had work done on your water system recently. The kind of water
does have an effect on whether the copper will leach, and how quickly it
will leach. The more acid and soft the water, the higher the rate of
leaching. A hard, alkaline water will cause less leaching. While copper
has its uses in the aquarium and pond, it is best to use in controlled
amounts and removed at the end of a proscribed length of time.

Copper is also expensive. Best you use PVC for rigid runs of piping, and
flexible tubing for those areas where you need the flexibility. Make
sure the PVC and tubing are rated for potable water, i.e., the water you
drink.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Don Foxlow
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 7:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Hi all
well the pond pump got sorted,
Now I am rerouting some of the plumbing.
The question is I want to save on cost & use some copper & brass
fittings I have to hand without having to buy plastic. Is such toxic to
my goldfish & wild life etc?
I know my water innitially comes thro copper pipes in the domestic
supply when I dont use rainwater. But that is once , in my pond system
it would be continually recycling. The one copper fitting I have used
on an ornamental waterfeature, A huge snail shell, I painted inside for
safety, but that was only 3" long. My feeling & vague residue of
previous knowledge is that it is more of a problem for warmer waters,
tropicals. Am I correct?
Regards
Don
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24431 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
That was excellent information as well, and I stand
corrected on some of my statements, but I guuess in
this case the differences between fresh and salt may
be a bit different. Walmart doe not sell swf. I do not
buy hardware from them, I find it too cheaply made
from my experience. The big box chains, I would NEVER
buy a swf from there. They have absolutely no
knowledge of Salt. The fish are stressed, weakend, and
I have many times seen deformed ones from improper
shipping. The tanks are stocked way too heavy with
incompatible fish. I do buy hardware from there.
BUt, maybe fresh is different there.
I agree, visit lfs and talk to peope and see their set
ups, is the tanks clean? Does the fish area have a bad
oder? If buying a fish, ask to see it eat. Caution
with meds though, I put a NO NO in my tank due to
someone recommendation. Thankfully it was not copper!
But, I have finally found the store for me. And you
will too, follow the advice from Donna as well, it is
good advice. Remember buy some books :)
stacey
--- Donna Camp <drollier@...> wrote:

> This is great information except that I disagree
> with the generalization
> NEVER buying fish from a bog box chain or Wal-Mart.
> I think that you need to
> read as many sources as you can and talk with
> people. Visit LFS's and look
> at their fish, their tanks and talk with people who
> work there. You'll soon
> learn which stores have the best fish, which sales
> people in the stores are
> good and which don't know anything about fish and
> are just trying to sell
> you stuff. I visit several Wal-Mart's around me. A
> couple I avoid and
> thankfully 1 of them is no longer selling fish. One
> of the Wal-Mart's has
> staff who know more than 1 of my LFS'S and I trust
> their information and
> their fish.
>
> Donna
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Stacey Riga" <sagirkennel@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 3:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] New to Group
>
>
> > Hi welcome to water world :)
> > I am new to this site too, and I have a SWT, but
> > having common interests of keeping our fish
> healthy.
> > What the biggest help to me was, when I first
> started
> > I did a LOT of reading and asking questions, such
> as
> > you are doing now :)
> > Can I suggest this book
> >
>
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4538+4539+9963&pcatid=9963
> > Next suggestion, never trust cpmpletely what a
> person
> > at a LFS (Live fish store)tells you.
> > Ask for someone elses opinion before deciding on a
> > course of action. Remember LFS WANTS to sell you
> > something, it may not be what you need.
> > Next suggestion, ok, I hope I don't walk on
> someone's
> > shoes with this comment.
> > NEVER buy fish from Walmart or big box chain.
> These
> > stores have absolutely no understanding of the
> care of
> > fish, and it shows in diseased or weakend stock.
> The
> > person caring for these animals is some teen kid
> after
> > school, etc.
> > Ask before medicating, too much of a good thing is
> a
> > bad thing. It can result in drug resistant
> bactria.
> > OK, so that is my suggestion, lol long way of
> saying
> > to buy that book, because I don't know freshwater.
> > Just how I am learning in salt.
> > Happy swimming~
> > SH
> > --- crazycritterz5 <crazycritterz5@...>
> wrote:
> >
> >> Hello Everyone,
> >> My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a
> friend
> >> along with some
> >> goldfish and another fish ( not sure what it is).
> >> Unfortunally I had
> >> no luck with the goldfish. I had a tank before
> along
> >> time ago and
> >> seemed I couldn't keep goldfish at that time
> either.
> >> Anyways,
> >> lastnight I tore down my tank and cleaned it ,
> >> scrubbed all the
> >> decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle
> water
> >> safe plus and put
> >> in a new filteration system. I keep my water
> temp.
> >> at 74 degrees
> >> Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2
> cory
> >> catfish and some
> >> ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great.
> What
> >> I was wondering
> >> is if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this
> the
> >> right temp for
> >> these fish? I am trying to learn everything I can
> >> about keeping my
> >> fish healthy. We do not have a pet store in our
> area
> >> ( closest is
> >> 1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart
> or
> >> Meijers for my
> >> information. I am not sure they are giving me the
> >> right advice. I
> >> have looked on the internet for information , but
> >> there is so many
> >> different version of what people think you should
> >> do. So, I decided
> >> to join your group with people that have
> experience
> >> with fish. I
> >> just want my fish to be healthy. The first thing
> I
> >> do when I get
> >> home at night ( work afternoons) is turn on the
> >> light for my tank
> >> and sit and watch the fish swim around for about
> 45
> >> minutes. It is
> >> so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
> >> greatly appreciate.
> >> Thank you all for your time :)
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
> message MODIFY the
> > SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
> subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24432 From: Don Foxlow Date: 10/22/2007
Subject: Re: Don's pond
Hi Stacey
thanks for your contribution.
I am not building a new pond just tidying up the plumbing of one built
earlier
Regards
Don




Stacey Riga wrote:
"" Don good luck with your pond. What size are you
> building?""
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24433 From: jett07002 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Kudos Lenny
Well Hallelujah! If you would care to research it, you could look
back to my comments of long ago. I have stated over and over again
that the tank water should be changed, and changed, and changed
(meaning PWCs) on a steady, religious routine. I can't stress enough
to treat these poor critters the same -- as close as possible -- as
they would be in nature. Mother Nature is constantly changing the
water. Then along comes man with his chemicals and tries to defy all
that nature is doing. A chemical to counter this, a chemical to
enhance that. Give me a break. No, no...better yet, give your fish a
break. Do PWCs, keep the tank as clean as possible, without
destroying the "good" bacteria. How do you not kill the "good"
bacteria? Again, the answer is don't use all that crap in your tank.
A 'seasoned' filter media will do the rest.

Lenny and Stacey, thank you both.

joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24434 From: Ella B Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
Thank You Lenny and everyone else for your great advice. Yes, I should have put more planning into this fish tank. I wish I would have thought about comming to this group before I even set up the tank. But, I didn't know and the stores didn't tell me either. I have already learned so much from the first day I set up the tank. I check the water everyday. I am doing a PWC of 15% everyother day. Which brings me to my next question. I fill my water , treat it and let it sit over night. But, what if the water isn't the same temp as your tank? Should I invest in a small heater to heat the water before adding it to my tank? I don't want to shock the fish. I lost one fish the other day , but he didn't look so hot from the time I brought him home. I feed small amounts morning and night. I now keep the tank light off when I get home and just rely on the ceiling light ( doesn't give off much light in the tank, just enough to watch them swim). I have found a guy at Meijers that seem
to know alot about the type of fish I have in my tank. He said that he has 5 tanks set up at home. He recemended aquarium salt for the tank. I added 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons of water.I have seen alot online about the beniffet of using the salt. Fish seem to love it. They became more active and seem to have more color. What do you think about the salt? Thanks once again for all your help , Brenda :)

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Hi Brenda,

Do you have a master test kit yet? If not, you should get one. A decent
one that seems readily available is from API - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Inc.
and it has the basic test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH & GH.
The last two aren't critical but are helpful. The first four are necessary.
If you already have a master test kit, you should be doing daily or frequent
testing of your tank for the next month or two until it completes the
nitrogen cycle. Go to my blog to my article called "A to Z of Fish Keeping"
and take one or both of the online tutorials so you will understand the
basic chemistry and biology that goes into keeping fish long term. More
than likely, your lack of knowledge on the nitrogen cycle is what has been
causing you to lose fish in the past. It's the number one mistake for new
fish keepers.

In hindsight, it would have been better to fishless cycle your new tank to
make it ready but since you have already added fish, you are now stuck with
"Cycling With Fish" so the daily or frequent testing must be done to keep
the ammonia/nitrite levels low enough not to harm your new fish.

One last note... fish like a regular light schedule that mimics
daylight/night so it's not good to turn on their lights for a short period
of time after it has been dark. If you like to spend time with your fish
after you get home at night, you should slowly change their lighting
schedule so that your tank stays lit 8-10 hours and is on when you get home
from work and then goes out an hour or so after you get home. You might
have to use a timer to get this to work for you. I also don't think fish
like to go from total darkness to bright lights in an instant since the sun
doesn't work that way either. You might want to first turn on a room light
and give them a little while with mild lighting before turning on the tank
lights. Same with going back to dark. Turn off the tank lights while a
room light is on and then after a little while, turn off the room light.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to Group

Hello Everyone,
My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend along with some goldfish
and another fish ( not sure what it is). Unfortunally I had no luck with the
goldfish. I had a tank before along time ago and seemed I couldn't keep
goldfish at that time either. Anyways, lastnight I tore down my tank and
cleaned it , scrubbed all the decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle
water safe plus and put in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp.
at 74 degrees Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory catfish and
some ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What I was wondering is
if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the right temp for these fish?
I am trying to learn everything I can about keeping my fish healthy. We do
not have a pet store in our area ( closest is
1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or Meijers for my
information. I am not sure they are giving me the right advice. I have
looked on the internet for information , but there is so many different
version of what people think you should do. So, I decided to join your group
with people that have experience with fish. I just want my fish to be
healthy. The first thing I do when I get home at night ( work afternoons) is
turn on the light for my tank and sit and watch the fish swim around for
about 45 minutes. It is so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
greatly appreciate.
Thank you all for your time :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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__________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24435 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart...
I was there looking for a feeding ring (of course they didn't have any)
and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder paper taped on them
saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points for not trying to
sell sick fish to the public, but minus several hundred points for lack
of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They hadn't even turned
off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly affliction, the
public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24436 From: Francina Martinez Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Many Wal-Mart stores have already taken down their aquariums and stopped selling fish. With a lack of knowledgeable employees it's probably a money loss with all the dead fish. I agree they could have handled it better, perhaps turning off the lights and covering the whole aquarium wall with a black sheet with one sign that says the fish department is temporarily shut down. Next time you may want to talk to a manager on duty and make that suggestion.
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
From: noahburge2b@...
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:07:15 +0000
Subject: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart...




















I was there looking for a feeding ring (of course they didn't have any)

and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder paper taped on them

saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points for not trying to

sell sick fish to the public, but minus several hundred points for lack

of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They hadn't even turned

off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly affliction, the

public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
























_________________________________________________________________
Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the Messenger Café. Stop by today.
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLtagline

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24437 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
I strongly disagree with this generalization! The Wal-Mart closest to me has
people working in it and tanks that are better than 1 of my LFS. Your
Wal-Mart may be bad, but not all are. If you think an individual store is
bad, you tell it ny writing letters and spending NO money in the department.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:07 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from
a Wal-mart...


I was there looking for a feeding ring (of course they didn't have any)
and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder paper taped on them
saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points for not trying to
sell sick fish to the public, but minus several hundred points for lack
of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They hadn't even turned
off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly affliction, the
public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24438 From: habskahuna Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Python cleaner
Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python? I want to replace a
segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm terrible at
guessing size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or 3/4"???

Carmen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24439 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
I believe we should be able to discuss different
vendors. Perhaps not a generalazation of ALL stores in
a large chain, but specific stores. I think we should
also be allowed to disuss personal experiences with a
certain online vendor or a LFS in a local area. It
should be a personal experience and explain what
happened, not 'never' buy, but personal experience.
IE...I went to one of the Petco's in KC. I asked a LOT
of questions, the attendant became very flustered as
he did not know the answers and walked off. Management
never came over when I suggested a manager's help, and
I was left all alone. The questions were simple
questions an attendant should be able to answer.
Compatability, stocking amount for a 75g, etc...simple
questions, and I was left along for it. How rude!
Stacey
--- Francina Martinez <wilderness_girl_22@...>
wrote:

>
>
> Many Wal-Mart stores have already taken down their
> aquariums and stopped selling fish. With a lack of
> knowledgeable employees it's probably a money loss
> with all the dead fish. I agree they could have
> handled it better, perhaps turning off the lights
> and covering the whole aquarium wall with a black
> sheet with one sign that says the fish department is
> temporarily shut down. Next time you may want to
> talk to a manager on duty and make that suggestion.
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> From: noahburge2b@...
> Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 18:07:15 +0000
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you
> should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I was there looking for a feeding ring
> (of course they didn't have any)
>
> and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder
> paper taped on them
>
> saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points
> for not trying to
>
> sell sick fish to the public, but minus several
> hundred points for lack
>
> of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They
> hadn't even turned
>
> off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly
> affliction, the
>
> public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Help yourself to FREE treats served up daily at the
> Messenger Café. Stop by today.
>
http://www.cafemessenger.com/info/info_sweetstuff2.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_OctWLtagline
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24440 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Lowes and etc. carry all kinds of different sizes and
types of hose. You can cut a piece, or take the hole
thing and compare the size there. I did that once.
Real cheap too!
Stacey
--- habskahuna <eskielists@...> wrote:

> Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python?
> I want to replace a
> segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm
> terrible at
> guessing size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or
> 3/4"???
>
> Carmen
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24441 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Hi Carmen,

I am at work now so I don't have access to the hose. But if you were to call the Customer Service at Foster and Smith. They would be able to help you out and there is a replacement hose that they sell. This hose type seems to be thinner and more pliable than the typical hose you find in the hardware store.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com 1-800-381-7179 (Customer Service)

Sam,

habskahuna <eskielists@...> wrote: Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python? I want to replace a
segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm terrible at
guessing size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or 3/4"???

Carmen






Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24442 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>
>
>

[

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.488 / Virus Database: 269.15.5/1084 - Release Date: 10/21/2007
3:09 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24443 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
*Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart...*
I agree we should not be too quick to judge large chain stores that are
trying to provide a service to the community. If it were not for Wal-Mart
and PETCO I would have only a couple of small pet stores to choose fish
from. In my experience even the nicest store will have sick fish pass
through their tanks without knowing it. We as prospective pet owners have
to do our homework and do our best to care for the fish we purchase.

After doing literally months of research and tank set up I finally bought
two discus and three clown loaches only to bring them home and put them in a
quarantine tank and have the clowns present with ich. My bad I put them all
in quarantine together. After starting treatment I moved the clowns
to their own tank and treated everyone. I got lucky, the discus have not
come down with ich and after a good course of medication, large water
changes, and increased temperatures the clowns bounced back.

I say all this to really say I have met extremely knowledgeable fish
enthusiasts at Wal-Mart and PETCO and un-knowledgeable employees at the
finest fish store within a hundred miles of my home. It is what it is. I
look for potential additions to the family anywhere I happen to be that
sells fish.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24444 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: QT tanks -was Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from
I use 1 QT tank - I never thought about separating fish bought at the same
store. Based on your experience with Ich - I had never used a QT tank until
I had an outbreak of Ich in a newly planted tank - how would you suggest the
fish be separated?

Thanks!
Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Debra Melton" <dmelton2@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 5:41 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish
from a Wal-mart...


After doing literally months of research and tank set up I finally bought
two discus and three clown loaches only to bring them home and put them in a
quarantine tank and have the clowns present with ich. My bad I put them all
in quarantine together. After starting treatment I moved the clowns
to their own tank and treated everyone. I got lucky, the discus have not
come down with ich and after a good course of medication, large water
changes, and increased temperatures the clowns bounced back.

Deb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24445 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: New to Group
The main thing with water temperature is that you don't want to change the
tanks temperature too much, too fast. A good rule of thumb is to not change
it by more than 1oF per hour. With a 15% PWC, you are probably OK but you
can do the math to be sure.

If your tank is at 80oF and your tap/sitting water is at 72oF, that is an
8oF difference. Since you are changing 15%, the change in temperature to
the tank will be 15% of 8oF or 1.2oF, which is slightly more than
recommended. A 10% PWC of 8oF difference water would lower the tank by
0.8oF. If you want to do 15% PWC's, then your replacement water should be
within 6oF of the tank temp. If you want to do a 25% PWC, then your
replacement water should be within 4oF of the tank temp. Sometimes, I'll do
a 25% PWC where the temp is off by 8oF but I slowly refill the tank so the
fish can slowly acclimate to the slightly cooler temporary tank temp. If
you have a heater in the tank, as soon as you start adding the cooler water,
the heater will come on and start heating it up so you could get by with a
25% PWC of 8oF difference water since the water will start getting heated as
soon as it goes into the tank.

As far as salt, some fish are more tolerant of it than others. Go to
http://fish.mongabay.com and check out the profiles on each of your fish
species to see what are their general preferences for water parameters. If
you are going to use salt, make sure to mix it well with some tank water and
then pour the solution back into the tank where it won't get sucked into the
filter right away since a too salty solution abruptly changed can harm the
good N-Bacteria in your filters. One level tablespoon per five gallons is
not a high enough level of salt to kill off parasites or bacteria but the
chloride (Salt is Sodium Chloride) part of the salt does help fish with
their gill function which is why they appear perkier but the sodium part is
not as good for freshwater fish as it affects their osmoregulatory system.
Here's a long thread on KoiVet.com about salt/chloride with goldfish/koi but
some of the info is applicable to all freshwater fish.
http://www.koivet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15967 which is one of the many
links I have on my blog article about the Salt or No Salt debate.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Salt

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ella B
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 12:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to Group

Thank You Lenny and everyone else for your great advice. Yes, I should have
put more planning into this fish tank. I wish I would have thought about
comming to this group before I even set up the tank. But, I didn't know and
the stores didn't tell me either. I have already learned so much from the
first day I set up the tank. I check the water everyday. I am doing a PWC of
15% everyother day. Which brings me to my next question. I fill my water ,
treat it and let it sit over night. But, what if the water isn't the same
temp as your tank? Should I invest in a small heater to heat the water
before adding it to my tank? I don't want to shock the fish. I lost one fish
the other day , but he didn't look so hot from the time I brought him home.
I feed small amounts morning and night. I now keep the tank light off when I
get home and just rely on the ceiling light ( doesn't give off much light in
the tank, just enough to watch them swim). I have found a guy at Meijers
that seem to know alot about the type of fish I have in my tank. He said
that he has 5 tanks set up at home. He recemended aquarium salt for the
tank. I added 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons of water.I have seen alot
online about the beniffet of using the salt. Fish seem to love it. They
became more active and seem to have more color. What do you think about the
salt? Thanks once again for all your help , Brenda :)

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote: Hi Brenda,

Do you have a master test kit yet? If not, you should get one. A decent one
that seems readily available is from API - Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Inc.
and it has the basic test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, KH & GH.
The last two aren't critical but are helpful. The first four are necessary.
If you already have a master test kit, you should be doing daily or frequent
testing of your tank for the next month or two until it completes the
nitrogen cycle. Go to my blog to my article called "A to Z of Fish Keeping"
and take one or both of the online tutorials so you will understand the
basic chemistry and biology that goes into keeping fish long term. More than
likely, your lack of knowledge on the nitrogen cycle is what has been
causing you to lose fish in the past. It's the number one mistake for new
fish keepers.

In hindsight, it would have been better to fishless cycle your new tank to
make it ready but since you have already added fish, you are now stuck with
"Cycling With Fish" so the daily or frequent testing must be done to keep
the ammonia/nitrite levels low enough not to harm your new fish.

One last note... fish like a regular light schedule that mimics
daylight/night so it's not good to turn on their lights for a short period
of time after it has been dark. If you like to spend time with your fish
after you get home at night, you should slowly change their lighting
schedule so that your tank stays lit 8-10 hours and is on when you get home
from work and then goes out an hour or so after you get home. You might have
to use a timer to get this to work for you. I also don't think fish like to
go from total darkness to bright lights in an instant since the sun doesn't
work that way either. You might want to first turn on a room light and give
them a little while with mild lighting before turning on the tank lights.
Same with going back to dark. Turn off the tank lights while a room light is
on and then after a little while, turn off the room light.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 1:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to Group

Hello Everyone,
My name is Brenda. I got a 55g tank from a friend along with some goldfish
and another fish ( not sure what it is). Unfortunally I had no luck with the
goldfish. I had a tank before along time ago and seemed I couldn't keep
goldfish at that time either. Anyways, lastnight I tore down my tank and
cleaned it , scrubbed all the decorations, put in new gravel, added Jungle
water safe plus and put in a new filteration system. I keep my water temp.
at 74 degrees Fahrenheit. I added 6 mollies , 9 platys , 2 cory catfish and
some ghost shrimp. They all seem to be doing great. What I was wondering is
if this is too many fish for my tank? Is this the right temp for these fish?
I am trying to learn everything I can about keeping my fish healthy. We do
not have a pet store in our area ( closest is
1.5 hours away) so I am forced to rely on Walmart or Meijers for my
information. I am not sure they are giving me the right advice. I have
looked on the internet for information , but there is so many different
version of what people think you should do. So, I decided to join your group
with people that have experience with fish. I just want my fish to be
healthy. The first thing I do when I get home at night ( work afternoons) is
turn on the light for my tank and sit and watch the fish swim around for
about 45 minutes. It is so relaxing for me. Any advice you have I would
greatly appreciate.
Thank you all for your time :)


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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7:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24446 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry Shrimp. CS are
herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter while most
"crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will likely
not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or diet
to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max, which
has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to town on
it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up algae
thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually have
30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to town
on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any deaths
that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268>

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24447 From: aclaar877 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: For Sale: Discus / Clown Loaches St. Louis, MO
I'm moving next week and need to sell my remaining fish:

Discus - $15 each. I have two blue turquoise, one blue cobalt, one
pigeon blood. 2 1/2 years old, 5" adults.

Clown Loaches - $3 each. 3-4" long, healthy and active.

Local pickup only in downtown St. Louis


Andy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24448 From: marty7448129 Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: My redtail catfish..
well i just got a beautiful redtail catfish from my uncle who owns a
pet store near my house.. i got the most beautiful of the 30 new
"kittens" that just arrived.. all were just 3 inches long and i chose
the one with the brightest red tail.. Ive been taking care of him for
2 months now and now hes 7 inches long and really husky.. I feed him a
variety of fish from feeder goldfish to swordtails which i have been
breeding for a while now :D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24449 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: My redtail catfish..
I do hope you runcle is going to help you with that 3000 gallon tank you
will need in a couple of years for the red-tail.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of marty7448129
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] My redtail catfish..

well i just got a beautiful redtail catfish from my uncle who owns a
pet store near my house.. i got the most beautiful of the 30 new
"kittens" that just arrived.. all were just 3 inches long and i chose
the one with the brightest red tail.. Ive been taking care of him for
2 months now and now hes 7 inches long and really husky.. I feed him a
variety of fish from feeder goldfish to swordtails which i have been
breeding for a while now :D
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24450 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Kate,

HBH had a recall of some of their food.(thanks China). Go to their web
site, it may be that you have a recalled can of their food.

Having said this, I want to state that I like HBH food and will continue
using it, just need to check for recalled cans of food first.

Mike

In a message dated 10/24/2007 2:40:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
k8hardy@... writes:




Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were dead(about
20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and lobster food.
She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper will kill them
and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced that it had high
protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When I found the dead
shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure enough, copper
sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so I'm assuming it was
the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the heck do they even
chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate









************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24451 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
I don't know for 100% certainty but this ad for another Python product says:

Python Part - Python Porter - Holds up to 100ft of 5/8” hose

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of habskahuna
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:27 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python cleaner

Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python? I want to replace a
segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm terrible at guessing
size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or 3/4"???

Carmen



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24452 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
Hello Carmen,
I measured it and it seems larger than 5/8" and less than 3/4". I took
measurements on the extension hose and the original
hose. I guess the real answer has to come from a caliber instrument. I
was just looking at a catalog and it has a 25 extension for
$21. That is not too far off and actually cheaper than the more rigid
stuff found at ACE hardware. The Python hose material is more pliable
than anything else I have seen.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> I don't know for 100% certainty but this ad for another Python product says:
>
> Python Part - Python Porter - Holds up to 100ft of 5/8� hose
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of habskahuna
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Python cleaner
>
> Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python? I want to replace a
> segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm terrible at guessing
> size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or 3/4"???
>
> Carmen
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
> 7:39 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24453 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
And I strongly disagree with your generalization, Donna. I have been
to more than one Wal-Mart, and every last one I have been to is no
better. I would not make a sweeping statement based on one store.
I am glad for you that live in an area where perhaps they care about
aquarium fish. I would like to take a poll, becasue I'm pretty sure
most people would site BAD experiences with Wal-mart livestock. If
I'm wrong, everyone tell me Wal-mart is okay to buy fish from, and
I'll shut up and go away.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> I strongly disagree with this generalization! The Wal-Mart closest
to me has
> people working in it and tanks that are better than 1 of my LFS.
Your
> Wal-Mart may be bad, but not all are. If you think an individual
store is
> bad, you tell it ny writing letters and spending NO money in the
department.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:07 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you should NEVER buy
fish from
> a Wal-mart...
>
>
> I was there looking for a feeding ring (of course they didn't have
any)
> and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder paper taped on
them
> saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points for not trying to
> sell sick fish to the public, but minus several hundred points for
lack
> of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They hadn't even turned
> off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly affliction, the
> public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24454 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/24/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
I don't think anyone can make generalized statements about the fish
departments of any major chain (Wal-Mart, PetsMart, Petco, etc.) or even an
LFS. It all depends on the management and staff who are in charge and the
management can change and usually does change every 6-18 months with major
chain retail stores. So you could have a poor manager today and he/she
could be replaced with someone who cleans up the entire fish department. Or
you could have an excellent manager now who gets moved up or transferred and
is replaced by someone who does not manage as well.

With an LFS, if the owner is a good fish keeper, then you could be in luck,
but if the owner is not, then that LFS is less likely to see a change. At
least with major chain stores, you have someone at corporate to file a
complaint with. With the LFS, the owner could just ignore your complaints.

I do not go to Wal-Mart (Metairie & Kenner, LA) very often but the times I
have been there, 90% of the tanks are in pretty good shape but there is
always at least one tank that is in very poor shape with sick/dead fish,
serious overstocking issues, incompatible species issues, etc. I do have a
PetsMart within a stones throw of my subdivision and I never see a really
bad tank there but I do see overstocking issues and incompatibility issues
on a regular basis.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 12:45 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish
from a Wal-mart...

And I strongly disagree with your generalization, Donna. I have been to more
than one Wal-Mart, and every last one I have been to is no better. I would
not make a sweeping statement based on one store.
I am glad for you that live in an area where perhaps they care about
aquarium fish. I would like to take a poll, becasue I'm pretty sure most
people would site BAD experiences with Wal-mart livestock. If I'm wrong,
everyone tell me Wal-mart is okay to buy fish from, and I'll shut up and go
away.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> I strongly disagree with this generalization! The Wal-Mart closest
to me has
> people working in it and tanks that are better than 1 of my LFS.
Your
> Wal-Mart may be bad, but not all are. If you think an individual
store is
> bad, you tell it ny writing letters and spending NO money in the
department.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> >
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 2:07 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Another testament why you should NEVER buy
fish from
> a Wal-mart...
>
>
> I was there looking for a feeding ring (of course they didn't have
any)
> and every single tank, all 15 of them, had binder paper taped on
them
> saying "Fish are sick - not for sale" Ok, 5 points for not trying to
> sell sick fish to the public, but minus several hundred points for
lack
> of style (and lack of quarantine knowledge). They hadn't even turned
> off the tank lights - so if it's a paticularly ugly affliction, the
> public get to see it! (not good for business imo)
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24455 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Wonderful online store..
Ok, here is a GOOD experience :)

"My" experience with Drs Smith and Foster have been
outstanding. I wish I could go to one of their
seminars! I hear they are wonderful. Thet sell FW and
SW, but I think the seminar is based on SW and corals.
They stongly believe in preserving our natural reefs,
and encourage buying tank raised. On their site, if
you do a search, you will see where they sell tank
bred, or tank raise in FW and SW fish and corals
(frags). They constantly search for fish that are tank
bred, which in some fish the success of which is just
become available. I feel this is important to preserve
natural resources. I also have bought hardware from
them, all in excellent shape. The service
representives are outstanding. I have 9 dogs, one
horse, and 2 tanks. So they get alot of my business ;)
A friend of mine did go to one seminar and said their
professional attitude, knowledge, and cleanliness of
their tanks was more than expect.
With all of the negative talk, here is a positive for
a company :)
Stacey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24456 From: siricheeri Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Wonderful online store..
In this statement I was reffering to SW, as some fish have just
recently been successfully bred in captivity. They are quite
expensive and I will be so glad when they trickle down to the LFS, so
the price will drop! But Foster and Smith do have a variety of fish
that are hard to find. Lovely species! :)
"They constantly search for fish that are tank
bred, which in some fish the success of which is just
become available. I feel this is important to preserve
natural resources. "

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> Ok, here is a GOOD experience :)
>
> "My" experience with Drs Smith and Foster have been
> outstanding. I wish I could go to one of their
> seminars! I hear they are wonderful. Thet sell FW and
> SW, but I think the seminar is based on SW and corals.
> They stongly believe in preserving our natural reefs,
> and encourage buying tank raised. On their site, if
> you do a search, you will see where they sell tank
> bred, or tank raise in FW and SW fish and corals
> (frags). They constantly search for fish that are tank
> bred, which in some fish the success of which is just
> become available. I feel this is important to preserve
> natural resources. I also have bought hardware from
> them, all in excellent shape. The service
> representives are outstanding. I have 9 dogs, one
> horse, and 2 tanks. So they get alot of my business ;)
> A friend of mine did go to one seminar and said their
> professional attitude, knowledge, and cleanliness of
> their tanks was more than expect.
> With all of the negative talk, here is a positive for
> a company :)
> Stacey
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24457 From: Debra Melton Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: QT tanks -was Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish fr
*QUARANTINE*

Hi Donna:

What I did was to physically separate the fish. The discus were quarantined
in a 10 gal and treated and I put the clowns in a 5 gal tank and treated
them. The discus have been fine since the outbreak but this morning the
clowns are looking salted again (I'm glad I didn't put them in the community
tank they were intended for). Hope this helps.

Deb


>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24458 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python cleaner
You might want to try a store that sells supplies for RV's and campers. Any
tubing you use in your tanks should be used to use for drinking. I found
extension tubing at one of those stores in the Spring for less than half the
price anywhere else, including online.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Palermo" <skywavebe@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 11:49 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Python cleaner


Hello Carmen,
I measured it and it seems larger than 5/8" and less than 3/4". I took
measurements on the extension hose and the original
hose. I guess the real answer has to come from a caliber instrument. I
was just looking at a catalog and it has a 25 extension for
$21. That is not too far off and actually cheaper than the more rigid
stuff found at ACE hardware. The Python hose material is more pliable
than anything else I have seen.

Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708)334-2260
Past Teac/Tascam Service Technician still doing repairs.

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> I don't know for 100% certainty but this ad for another Python product
> says:
>
> Python Part - Python Porter - Holds up to 100ft of 5/8” hose
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of habskahuna
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 3:27 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Python cleaner
>
> Does anyone know the size of the hose on a python? I want to replace a
> segment without the connections, hose only, and I'm terrible at guessing
> size! Don`t want to order wrong... 5/8 or 3/4"???
>
> Carmen
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24459 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Wow, that's crazy. There are a lot of websites out there that recommend crab and lobster bites. There are 4 shrimp left that didn't "drink the kool-aid" and seem to be going strong. I’ve been using the algae wafers for the Otos and them, but felt guilty I wasn’t giving what so many websites said the CS needed. Guess I’ll stop worrying. One question though, do you really think one feeding of the C&L bites could have overloaded them that badly on protein(enough to be fatal)? I only added about 5 of the tiny pellets to the tank.
Thanks!
Kate


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry Shrimp. CS are
herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter while most
"crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will likely
not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or diet
to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max, which
has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to town on
it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up algae
thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually have
30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to town
on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any deaths
that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268


"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24460 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
That's really interesting. I called the owner of the fish store when it happened. He took the food back and gave me a credit for the 20 CS(relunctantly). I'm going to go in to him today and advise him of the recall.
Thanks for the info!!
Kate

Deenerz@... wrote:

Kate,

HBH had a recall of some of their food.(thanks China). Go to their web
site, it may be that you have a recalled can of their food.

Having said this, I want to state that I like HBH food and will continue
using it, just need to check for recalled cans of food first.

Mike

In a message dated 10/24/2007 2:40:57 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
k8hardy@... writes:

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were dead(about
20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and lobster food.
She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper will kill them
and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced that it had high
protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When I found the dead
shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure enough, copper
sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so I'm assuming it was
the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the heck do they even
chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24461 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
How many cherry shrimp do you have? I have probably around 50-100 in a 10G
heavily planted tank and I only feed mine a small piece of algae thin, maybe
1mm diameter (the smallest piece I can break off of the dime sized thin)
once a day and then I feed them one quarter sized spirulina algae flake once
a day. Mine were breeding like crazy but the breeding has slowed down since
the stocking limit is full. I need to trade 3/4's of these guys in to the
LFS soon.

Like I said earlier, I'm not sure what killed your little guys/girls but I
know that cherry shrimp are very particular about water parameters so if you
have an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike or other water quality issues (heavy
metals... like copper, etc.), then that will do them in, but not normally so
quickly. I would suspect some kind of shock from pH or temperature or the
possibility of copper poisoning to kill so many, so fast.

Crab & Lobster bites might be good for many other shrimp species that are
omnivores/carnivores but cherry shrimp are pure herbivores. The reasons why
some people might recommend the other stuff is that it may have high calcium
levels which is good for inverts shells. I have moderately hard water so I
don't really have to worry about added calcium. If you have soft water,
there are lots of other "natural" things you can add to the water or feed
them to give them added calcium.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Wow, that's crazy. There are a lot of websites out there that recommend crab
and lobster bites. There are 4 shrimp left that didn't "drink the kool-aid"
and seem to be going strong. I’ve been using the algae wafers for the Otos
and them, but felt guilty I wasn’t giving what so many websites said the CS
needed. Guess I’ll stop worrying. One question though, do you really think
one feeding of the C&L bites could have overloaded them that badly on
protein(enough to be fatal)? I only added about 5 of the tiny pellets to the
tank.
Thanks!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote: One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry
Shrimp. CS are herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter
while most "crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will
likely not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or
diet to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max,
which has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to
town on it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up
algae thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually
have 30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to
town on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any
deaths that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268>

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com <http://mail.yahoo.com>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24462 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
There were around 25 originally in a heavily planted 10 gallon. Like I said, the only thing that changed was the food. The recall Mike mentioned has me thinking.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
How many cherry shrimp do you have? I have probably around 50-100 in a 10G
heavily planted tank and I only feed mine a small piece of algae thin, maybe
1mm diameter (the smallest piece I can break off of the dime sized thin)
once a day and then I feed them one quarter sized spirulina algae flake once
a day. Mine were breeding like crazy but the breeding has slowed down since
the stocking limit is full. I need to trade 3/4's of these guys in to the
LFS soon.

Like I said earlier, I'm not sure what killed your little guys/girls but I
know that cherry shrimp are very particular about water parameters so if you
have an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike or other water quality issues (heavy
metals... like copper, etc.), then that will do them in, but not normally so
quickly. I would suspect some kind of shock from pH or temperature or the
possibility of copper poisoning to kill so many, so fast.

Crab & Lobster bites might be good for many other shrimp species that are
omnivores/carnivores but cherry shrimp are pure herbivores. The reasons why
some people might recommend the other stuff is that it may have high calcium
levels which is good for inverts shells. I have moderately hard water so I
don't really have to worry about added calcium. If you have soft water,
there are lots of other "natural" things you can add to the water or feed
them to give them added calcium.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Wow, that's crazy. There are a lot of websites out there that recommend crab
and lobster bites. There are 4 shrimp left that didn't "drink the kool-aid"
and seem to be going strong. I’ve been using the algae wafers for the Otos
and them, but felt guilty I wasn’t giving what so many websites said the CS
needed. Guess I’ll stop worrying. One question though, do you really think
one feeding of the C&L bites could have overloaded them that badly on
protein(enough to be fatal)? I only added about 5 of the tiny pellets to the
tank.
Thanks!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote: One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry
Shrimp. CS are herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter
while most "crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will
likely not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or
diet to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max,
which has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to
town on it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up
algae thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually
have 30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to
town on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any
deaths that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268>

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.8/1089 - Release Date: 10/23/2007
7:39 PM

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24463 From: Amy Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
It just so happens I was the tropical fish vendor for Walmart for 3
years. I started as pet dept mgr for Walmart, fell in love with the
aquatic part more than stocking the dog food and decided a career
change was needed, contacted my vendor & I was out outa there.

I had 23 stores on my route & I was in shock as to what was going on
at these Walmarts, no wonder my customers traveled up to an hour to
buy their supplies from my store! I made it my mission to train as
many associates that wanted to be trained, to save as many fish lives
as possible. The one reason why you see 300 common goldfish in the
tanks is if they had the 7-10 that they "should" have then they would
run out of goldfish in 1 day and customers get quite verbal if you
run out of something, plus they are in the business of sales, not
fish keeping. Most of the employees I encountered (from Ohio to Fla)
cared, but it only took 1 person who worked the wknd to destroy what
they accomplished all week. They were frustrated, got no help from
mgmt, stocking dog food was more important to them.

I have 7 various size tanks with the poor little ones that were
rejected at delivery, all my friends have tanks with the presents I'd
bring every week, if I shipped them back to hatchery, they's surely
die so most of the route guys took care of them. If you think what
you see at the store level is bad,don't get me started on the
hatcheries & what I encountered over the years, so sad...but there
are hard working, caring people in the industry at all levels &
hopefully one day there will be more of them.

As a customer, if I'm in a store & I hear wrong info being given, I
will step in and correct it before that customer leaves with their
new fish, if an employee does not know the answer to my "test"
question, I will educate. It's not much, but I feel good when I leave.

Sorry to be so long winded, but I felt compelled to share.

Amy Paulin
Cocoa, Florida
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24464 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
Did you go to their site to see if your food was one of the affected foods?
The recalls mostly involved the melamine tainted pet foods issue and I'm
sure if the shrimp ate the melamine, it would probably kill them. I'm still
not sure the copper sulfate in the food would be the issue. Just because it
has "copper" in the name, doesn't mean it will affect them the same way that
copper as a heavy metal affects them. Especially with a specialty invert
food, the pet food company would certainly have to know that copper harms
inverts more than other aquarium pets so I'm sure the copper sulfate is a
non-hazardous form... but I could be wrong.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 11:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

There were around 25 originally in a heavily planted 10 gallon. Like I said,
the only thing that changed was the food. The recall Mike mentioned has me
thinking.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
How many cherry shrimp do you have? I have probably around 50-100 in a 10G
heavily planted tank and I only feed mine a small piece of algae thin, maybe
1mm diameter (the smallest piece I can break off of the dime sized thin)
once a day and then I feed them one quarter sized spirulina algae flake once
a day. Mine were breeding like crazy but the breeding has slowed down since
the stocking limit is full. I need to trade 3/4's of these guys in to the
LFS soon.

Like I said earlier, I'm not sure what killed your little guys/girls but I
know that cherry shrimp are very particular about water parameters so if you
have an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike or other water quality issues (heavy
metals... like copper, etc.), then that will do them in, but not normally so
quickly. I would suspect some kind of shock from pH or temperature or the
possibility of copper poisoning to kill so many, so fast.

Crab & Lobster bites might be good for many other shrimp species that are
omnivores/carnivores but cherry shrimp are pure herbivores. The reasons why
some people might recommend the other stuff is that it may have high calcium
levels which is good for inverts shells. I have moderately hard water so I
don't really have to worry about added calcium. If you have soft water,
there are lots of other "natural" things you can add to the water or feed
them to give them added calcium.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Wow, that's crazy. There are a lot of websites out there that recommend crab
and lobster bites. There are 4 shrimp left that didn't "drink the kool-aid"
and seem to be going strong. I’ve been using the algae wafers for the Otos
and them, but felt guilty I wasn’t giving what so many websites said the CS
needed. Guess I’ll stop worrying. One question though, do you really think
one feeding of the C&L bites could have overloaded them that badly on
protein(enough to be fatal)? I only added about 5 of the tiny pellets to the
tank.
Thanks!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote: One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry
Shrimp. CS are herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter
while most "crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will
likely not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or
diet to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max,
which has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to
town on it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up
algae thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually
have 30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to
town on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any
deaths that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268>
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268
<http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268> >

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24465 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Another testament why you should NEVER buy fish from a Wal-mart.
Thank you for the insight Amy,

With government getting into everything they should not, why wouldn't it be
impossible to certify that a store that sells fish pass a certain minimum
requirement as to how to treat and maintain fish while they are awaiting sale?
It seems to me that a sharp attorney could make a animal endangerment case again any store that keeps their tanks in less than proper condition thus eventually forcing them to either get up to grade or get out of the business.
Most of these high school type workers I see don't have even common sense these days and no a dozen doesn't consist of 14 or 20 items.
It is surprising what employers will take for employees.
We could all do better by getting fish from proper pet centers rather than drug stores or Targets.

Sam,

Amy <amycj7@...> wrote: It just so happens I was the tropical fish vendor for Walmart for 3
years. I started as pet dept mgr for Walmart, fell in love with the
aquatic part more than stocking the dog food and decided a career
change was needed, contacted my vendor & I was out outa there.

I had 23 stores on my route & I was in shock as to what was going on
at these Walmarts, no wonder my customers traveled up to an hour to
buy their supplies from my store! I made it my mission to train as
many associates that wanted to be trained, to save as many fish lives
as possible. The one reason why you see 300 common goldfish in the
tanks is if they had the 7-10 that they "should" have then they would
run out of goldfish in 1 day and customers get quite verbal if you
run out of something, plus they are in the business of sales, not
fish keeping. Most of the employees I encountered (from Ohio to Fla)
cared, but it only took 1 person who worked the wknd to destroy what
they accomplished all week. They were frustrated, got no help from
mgmt, stocking dog food was more important to them.

I have 7 various size tanks with the poor little ones that were
rejected at delivery, all my friends have tanks with the presents I'd
bring every week, if I shipped them back to hatchery, they's surely
die so most of the route guys took care of them. If you think what
you see at the store level is bad,don't get me started on the
hatcheries & what I encountered over the years, so sad...but there
are hard working, caring people in the industry at all levels &
hopefully one day there will be more of them.

As a customer, if I'm in a store & I hear wrong info being given, I
will step in and correct it before that customer leaves with their
new fish, if an employee does not know the answer to my "test"
question, I will educate. It's not much, but I feel good when I leave.

Sorry to be so long winded, but I felt compelled to share.

Amy Paulin
Cocoa, Florida






Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24466 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not
I did actually. And if I read the info right it was.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Did you go to their site to see if your food was one of the affected foods?
The recalls mostly involved the melamine tainted pet foods issue and I'm
sure if the shrimp ate the melamine, it would probably kill them. I'm still
not sure the copper sulfate in the food would be the issue. Just because it
has "copper" in the name, doesn't mean it will affect them the same way that
copper as a heavy metal affects them. Especially with a specialty invert
food, the pet food company would certainly have to know that copper harms
inverts more than other aquarium pets so I'm sure the copper sulfate is a
non-hazardous form... but I could be wrong.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 11:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

There were around 25 originally in a heavily planted 10 gallon. Like I said,
the only thing that changed was the food. The recall Mike mentioned has me
thinking.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
How many cherry shrimp do you have? I have probably around 50-100 in a 10G
heavily planted tank and I only feed mine a small piece of algae thin, maybe
1mm diameter (the smallest piece I can break off of the dime sized thin)
once a day and then I feed them one quarter sized spirulina algae flake once
a day. Mine were breeding like crazy but the breeding has slowed down since
the stocking limit is full. I need to trade 3/4's of these guys in to the
LFS soon.

Like I said earlier, I'm not sure what killed your little guys/girls but I
know that cherry shrimp are very particular about water parameters so if you
have an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike or other water quality issues (heavy
metals... like copper, etc.), then that will do them in, but not normally so
quickly. I would suspect some kind of shock from pH or temperature or the
possibility of copper poisoning to kill so many, so fast.

Crab & Lobster bites might be good for many other shrimp species that are
omnivores/carnivores but cherry shrimp are pure herbivores. The reasons why
some people might recommend the other stuff is that it may have high calcium
levels which is good for inverts shells. I have moderately hard water so I
don't really have to worry about added calcium. If you have soft water,
there are lots of other "natural" things you can add to the water or feed
them to give them added calcium.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 10:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Wow, that's crazy. There are a lot of websites out there that recommend crab
and lobster bites. There are 4 shrimp left that didn't "drink the kool-aid"
and seem to be going strong. I’ve been using the algae wafers for the Otos
and them, but felt guilty I wasn’t giving what so many websites said the CS
needed. Guess I’ll stop worrying. One question though, do you really think
one feeding of the C&L bites could have overloaded them that badly on
protein(enough to be fatal)? I only added about 5 of the tiny pellets to the
tank.
Thanks!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"

> wrote: One problem is that you got "crab & lobster" food for Cherry
Shrimp. CS are herbivores and primarily eat algae or decaying plant matter
while most "crabs & lobsters" are omnivores or carnivores. Some protein will
likely not harm the CS but I think it should be less than 30% of the food or
diet to be safe. I feed mine Spirulina Algae Flake Food from Nutrafin-Max,
which has some fish meal in it so it has protein in it also but they go to
town on it. I also will occasionally drop in a small piece of a broken up
algae thin for pleco's. Although they are called algae thins, they actually
have 30-40% protein since most pleco's are omnivores but the CS still go to
town on the algae thin as it slowly dissolves and so far I haven't had any
deaths that I can tell. I'm sure some of my CS have died but I never see a
carcass. I'm guessing the snails or planaria get to the carcasses before I
see them. I don't see any kind of copper ingredient on the Spirulina Flakes
or Algae Thins so I can't say whether it was a high protein diet or the
copper or some other water parameter issue.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

Just curious, but why do so many fish foods use copper sulfate? I got some
new food for the cherry shrimp(HBH crab and lobster bites) the other day. By
the next morning 1/2 were dead and the next day the other half were
dead(about 20 in all). I asked the gal at the lfs to recommend a crab and
lobster food. She pulled out HBH. A guy and I were talking about how copper
will kill them and she turned it around to look at the label. She announced
that it had high protein and I assumed she was looking for copper too. When
I found the dead shrimp I looked at the ingredients on the food and, sure
enough, copper sulfate. That's the only thing in the tank that changed so
I'm assuming it was the food. Do you think it was the copper? If so why the
heck do they even chance putting it in food for invertebrates?
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
It's true that some meds use copper and that copper is lethal to inverts but
it's not OK for fish either. It's a heavy metal that will build up in your
fish and cause other health problems over time. The difference is that when
we use meds with copper, we do PWC's right afterwards to remove the copper
laced water or we use water conditioners that treat for heavy metals which
helps the filter system remove the copper.

With copper pipes in the plumbing, there would be a constant amount of
copper in the water even with PWC's and water treatments so the fish would
be constantly poisoned by the copper.

Here's a snip from a DrsFosterSmith.com article...
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/pic/article.cfm?aid=268

>

"Copper can be found in trace amounts in wells, but can also come from
copper plumbing. Most fish can tolerate copper in low levels for a short
amount of time, but it can be particularly devastating to any aquarium
containing invertebrates. Once copper has been introduced in a reef
aquarium, extreme measures may be needed to re-create a suitable
environment. Even the substrate (gravel) used in a once-contaminated
aquarium must be discarded.

Some fish, such as koi, are highly intolerant to copper. They build up
copper within their body tissue and may eventually die of heavy metal
poisoning. If you choose to keep copper-sensitive fish, invertebrates, or a
reef aquarium, a copper test kit is a must have. It is an inexpensive way to
help head off serious problems."

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

] On Behalf Of Andreas
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Copper piping - Poisonous or not

actually to be specific

fish don't really mind copper, in the salt water world copper is routinely
used as medicine....

however any invertevrates will die immediately from ANY copper exposure

ever hear the story of the guy who got fired from an office, the boss has a
fancy reef aquarium ?

a few days after the fired employee left everything in the tank was dead...
they could not figure out why until they found a penny the fired emplyeee
had thrown in the tank

nuff said

A

On 10/22/07, Don Foxlow > wrote:
>
> Hi Stacey & Lenny,
> Thanks to you both for replying, In which case I will stick to plastic.
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:( in part)
>
> " Happy swimming :)"
>
> Stacey I dont fall into my pond that often especially in my wheelchair
> :-)) Regards Don
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24467 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Python Cleaner
I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question. (Sorry for the
delay, right after I asked, we had an internet issue and couldn't send any
mail!). I did a little digging and 5/8 seems to be the right size. I had
the opportunity to order 50' of 5/8" Lee's aquarium siphon tubing for under
$20 from a distributor my store deals with, so it didn't make sense to order
it on line. With shipping to Canada, on-line deals often aren't deals :-(

I also got a great price on a Magnum Pro 350 cannister filter with a
cleaning claw. It can be used as a full-time filter or as a cleaner for
when you want to remove detritus but not water. It'll be nice because I
like to do smaller water changes more often, which doesn't give me much time
to do a thorough gravel vacuuming. It also comes with a micron cartridge to
"polish" the water...and biowheels...which won't help much with it being
used as a cleaner but I'm sure I can put into service somehow :-) If anyone
has any input on this filter, I'd love to hear it. It's the cannister, not
the H.O.T. one...

--

Carmen

--

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24468 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
I didn't buy one but I did look into them and I like the way it has the
gravel vacuum attachment. Just remember that after you vacuum your gravel,
the filter will have all that detritus (fish poop, etc.) in it so it has to
be "serviced/cleaned" or the filter will become a nitrate factory. If
you've never owned a canister filter before, I have a couple of articles on
filters and filter maintenance and cleaning on my blog. I also have a
filter profile article on the Rena Filstar Canister filter line but it will
give you an idea of what I do to clean my filter systems. If the links
break, look on the right side and click on the filter cleaning and filter
maintenance links.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Profile
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Maintenance
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Cleaning

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:01 PM
To: Aquatic Life
Cc: Tropical Fish Club
Subject: [AquaticLife] Python Cleaner

I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question. (Sorry for the
delay, right after I asked, we had an internet issue and couldn't send any
mail!). I did a little digging and 5/8 seems to be the right size. I had the
opportunity to order 50' of 5/8" Lee's aquarium siphon tubing for under $20
from a distributor my store deals with, so it didn't make sense to order it
on line. With shipping to Canada, on-line deals often aren't deals :-(

I also got a great price on a Magnum Pro 350 cannister filter with a
cleaning claw. It can be used as a full-time filter or as a cleaner for when
you want to remove detritus but not water. It'll be nice because I like to
do smaller water changes more often, which doesn't give me much time to do a
thorough gravel vacuuming. It also comes with a micron cartridge to "polish"
the water...and biowheels...which won't help much with it being used as a
cleaner but I'm sure I can put into service somehow :-) If anyone has any
input on this filter, I'd love to hear it. It's the cannister, not the
H.O.T. one...

--

Carmen

--

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
2:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24469 From: William Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner
I use the Magnum on my 55 gallon tank. I also have a micron screen
that I can put in to polish the water if I need to. I have found
that If I use the micron screen I will use the blue sleeve over the
micron cartridge to help keep it from getting clogged up as fast.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Carmen H" <eskielists@...>
wrote:
>
> I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question. (Sorry
for the
> delay, right after I asked, we had an internet issue and couldn't
send any
> mail!). I did a little digging and 5/8 seems to be the right
size. I had
> the opportunity to order 50' of 5/8" Lee's aquarium siphon tubing
for under
> $20 from a distributor my store deals with, so it didn't make
sense to order
> it on line. With shipping to Canada, on-line deals often aren't
deals :-(
>
> I also got a great price on a Magnum Pro 350 cannister filter with
a
> cleaning claw. It can be used as a full-time filter or as a
cleaner for
> when you want to remove detritus but not water. It'll be nice
because I
> like to do smaller water changes more often, which doesn't give me
much time
> to do a thorough gravel vacuuming. It also comes with a micron
cartridge to
> "polish" the water...and biowheels...which won't help much with it
being
> used as a cleaner but I'm sure I can put into service somehow :-)
If anyone
> has any input on this filter, I'd love to hear it. It's the
cannister, not
> the H.O.T. one...
>
> --
>
> Carmen
>
> --
>
> Carmen and the pack
> Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
> http://www.reskie.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24470 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner
That makes a lot of sense and I may not have thought of it! Thanks!

Carmen

On 10/25/07, William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
>
> I use the Magnum on my 55 gallon tank. I also have a micron screen
> that I can put in to polish the water if I need to. I have found
> that If I use the micron screen I will use the blue sleeve over the
> micron cartridge to help keep it from getting clogged up as fast.
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24471 From: Carmen H Date: 10/25/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
>
> My intention is to use it as a cleaner rather than full time, so of course
> it will be cleaned each time. Several reviews I've seen, though, say it's
> so good that it's hard to resist putting it into regular service :-) I run
> cannisters (mostly Filstars) on most of my tanks though, so if I end up
> doing that, I know the drill. I've checked out your pages before though,
> very well done, lots of good advice!
>
> Carmen
>
> On 10/25/07, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> >
> > I didn't buy one but I did look into them and I like the way it has the
> > gravel vacuum attachment. Just remember that after you vacuum your
> > gravel,
> > the filter will have all that detritus (fish poop, etc.) in it so it has
> > to
> > be "serviced/cleaned" or the filter will become a nitrate factory. If
> > you've never owned a canister filter before, I have a couple of articles
> > on
> > filters and filter maintenance and cleaning on my blog. I also have a
> > filter profile article on the Rena Filstar Canister filter line but it
> > will
> > give you an idea of what I do to clean my filter systems. If the links
> > break, look on the right side and click on the filter cleaning and
> > filter
> > maintenance links.
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Profile
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Maintenance
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/Filter%20Cleaning
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >


--

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24472 From: Poul Wehner Date: 10/26/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
I've used the Magnum 350 Pro w/ Bio-Wheels on a 66 gal for 5-6 years
and it performed very well. I never used it as a gravel cleaner
though.
One issue- there are a couple of small washers in this unit that will
eventually wear out and need replacing. They cost maybe $5.
Always make sure you have an extra pair of these washers handy. It's
not an item you're likely to find at Petsmart. So word to the wise...

>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Carmen H
> Sent: Thursday, October 25, 2007 8:01 PM
> To: Aquatic Life
> Cc: Tropical Fish Club
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Python Cleaner
>
> I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question. (Sorry for the
> delay, right after I asked, we had an internet issue and couldn't send any
> mail!). I did a little digging and 5/8 seems to be the right size. I had the
> opportunity to order 50' of 5/8" Lee's aquarium siphon tubing for under $20
> from a distributor my store deals with, so it didn't make sense to order it
> on line. With shipping to Canada, on-line deals often aren't deals :-(
>
> I also got a great price on a Magnum Pro 350 cannister filter with a
> cleaning claw. It can be used as a full-time filter or as a cleaner for when
> you want to remove detritus but not water. It'll be nice because I like to
> do smaller water changes more often, which doesn't give me much time to do a
> thorough gravel vacuuming. It also comes with a micron cartridge to "polish"
> the water...and biowheels...which won't help much with it being used as a
> cleaner but I'm sure I can put into service somehow :-) If anyone has any
> input on this filter, I'd love to hear it. It's the cannister, not the
> H.O.T. one...
>
> --
>
> Carmen
>
> --
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.10/1091 - Release Date: 10/24/2007
> 2:31 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24473 From: habskahuna Date: 10/26/2007
Subject: Re: Python Cleaner, now Marineland Magnum 350 Pro Canister filter qu
Thanks for the tip, I'll get some extras ASAP.

Carmen

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Poul Wehner" <poul.wehner@...> wrote:
>
> I've used the Magnum 350 Pro w/ Bio-Wheels on a 66 gal for 5-6 years
> and it performed very well. I never used it as a gravel cleaner
> though.
> One issue- there are a couple of small washers in this unit that will
> eventually wear out and need replacing. They cost maybe $5.
> Always make sure you have an extra pair of these washers handy. It's
> not an item you're likely to find at Petsmart. So word to the wise...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24474 From: Jennifer Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: New Tank
I am going to pick up my new 29 gallon tank today and I am very
excited. I used to have two 20 gallon tanks a few years back, but one
sprung a leak in the middle of the night. I lost all my fish and it
ruined the hardwood floors. I took a break then because I was so
devastated, but recently got the urge to start up again.

I know I can't put the fish in yet but I want to look around while I
am at the store to see my options. Does anyone have any suggestions
about which fish would go best together in a 29 gallon?

Thanks in advance for all your help!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24475 From: Noah Burge Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
I looked at all of them last night (for an hour or so, eyerything was
fine. This morning, he was on the side of a sponge filter, sort of
wedged in between it and the back wall of the aquarium. I thought he
was dead and when I touched him he zoomed away, but his right side eye
is missing and the right side in general is sort of faded. He seems to
be listing to one side, but now he is hanging out with the other Cory
again. He is the smaller of the 2 Cory cats.

The others are 1 gibbiceps pleco, 2 guppies and a loach, so just by
process of elimination, I would say the loach struck out for some
reason. There are no sharp corners anywhere in the tank that could have
done it. They have lived together for a few months now, and the loach
and the Corys always have got along, they even played together quite
often.

I moved them into a 55G a week ago. It was cycled with Bio-Spira and I
still let everything run for 48 hours before I added the fish. The
water parameters checked out okay: ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=5ppm.
The pH is way too high (7.9 I am going to get some peat moss and run it
in my canister filter). Oh no...I just remembered I did a PWC last
night using a python. I was right there by the tank most of the time,
but I had to go shut the water off. Perhaps he got sucked up in the
tube and lost the eye. I thought they were all fine when I shut off the
lights, but I wasn't watching for a missing eye.

What do you think is most likely, just from this limited info? Any
suggestions would be most appreciated. Should I remove the loach asap,
or just wait and see?
I fear this fish may still die soon. :( :(
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24476 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
While you are researching which fish you want to keep, you should start the
"Fishless Cycle" on the tank immediately and if things go perfect, you'll
have it fully cycled in 2-3 weeks. By then, you'll know exactly what you
want for fish and you can buy them all at once. Go to my blog and on the
right, there is a page called "A to Z of Fish Keeping" where you can find
links to details on the above as well as sites where you can check
compatibility and stocking issues and tank size recommendations for whatever
fish you are interested in.

What kind of fish did you keep in the past?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jennifer
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 8:10 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Tank

I am going to pick up my new 29 gallon tank today and I am very excited. I
used to have two 20 gallon tanks a few years back, but one sprung a leak in
the middle of the night. I lost all my fish and it ruined the hardwood
floors. I took a break then because I was so devastated, but recently got
the urge to start up again.

I know I can't put the fish in yet but I want to look around while I am at
the store to see my options. Does anyone have any suggestions about which
fish would go best together in a 29 gallon?

Thanks in advance for all your help!



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1095 - Release Date: 10/26/2007
7:54 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24477 From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com Date: 10/27/2007
Subject: ba kharid hamster shadi ra be khane avarid*new*, 10/27/2007, 11:00 p
Reminder from:   AquaticLife Yahoo! Group
 
Title:   ba kharid hamster shadi ra be khane avarid*new*
 
Date:   Saturday October 27, 2007
Time:   11:00 pm - 12:00 am
Notes:   * tozih: hamster joz khanevade javandegan hast, va hich gone bimari ghabele enteghal be ensan(manande sag , gorbe va barkhi az paradegan)ra nadarad
* khososiyate hamsetr: mojoodi bisiyar sargarm konande hast,negahdariye fogholade asani darad, az lahaze taghziyei mahdoodiyat e khasi nadare va aksare mjavad khoraki ra vane ghaza be in mojoode ziba dad, ons gereftan hamsetr ba ensan baes shode ke har kasi ke hamster dashte az dashtan in mojood khatere khoshi dar zehn khod dashte bashad .
* rahnamaye kharide hamster :
kharide hamster az jahaye por saro seda khodari konid, mohemtarin neshane salamate hamster, shadabi hast va hamsteri ke dar sharayete khob negahdari shode bashad kamelan sare hal va sar zende ast .
* forsat ra az dast nadahid * (sen hamster 27 ta 60 rooz )
* hamster( nar ya made )= 5000 toman ,
- be ezaye kharid har 5000 toman yek baste poshal, va har 10000 toman yek baste palet khedmate shoma taghdim mikonim .
* khadamat ma be shoma azizan :
- emkane bazdid va emkane ersal be hame noghate tehran va karaj ( makan bazdid sadat abad )
- foroush hamster 8 sob ta 10 shab, hata dar ayame tatil
- be elate estghlabe azizan e saken dar kharej az tehran emkane ersal baraye in daste az azizan ba sharayetr asan faraham mibashab
- rezerve kharide hamster ( vije azizani ta payane mohlate agahi emkane kharide hamster nadaran vali doost daran in mojood ziba ra dashte bashan )
- lavazeme janebi :1- pooshal makhsoose hamster ,2-( palet + tokhme) makhsoose hamster ,3-ketab amozeshe negahdari hamster 4-khane makhsose hamster ,5-sabade vije haml ( adi va vije )
* in agahi ta payane rooze 18/8/1386 etebar darad .
* baraye etelate bishtar ba ma tamas begirin *
- shomare tamas 09123804880-22375012
- e-mail:soroush_1985@... ( soroush shams )
- group : http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/iran-pet-shop/
rezayate shoma eftekhare mast
heyvanat yeki az amanathaye elahi hastan pas dar negahdari har che behtare anha deghat konim
 
Copyright © 2007  Yahoo! Inc. All Rights Reserved | Terms of Service | Privacy Policy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24478 From: kl_whitney Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Found the PERFECT tank for me @ walmart
First off, I don't need more advice on what size tank to get.
Already figured out I should get a 10 gallon, cause that'll be about
the biggest size I can keep in a dorm room. Actually some dorms will
allow a 15 gallon, but those are harder to find, from what I know.
Anyway, I was at Walmart 2 days ago. I found a complete 10 gallon
kit. Even comes with food. And it's only $30. If my dad doesn't
have a ten gallon lying around, I will definitely buy the kit from
walmart when I'm ready for fish. I'm thinking neon tetras from my
local "mom and pop" pet store, rather than from a big box pet store.
I figure that even though they're a bit overpriced ($3 each) they'll
be much healthier where people actually know about fish, rather than
getting them for as little as $1 (on sale, there are occasionally
schooling fish specials) at a big box pet store, where no one knows
anything about the pets they sell.
I figure it would be best for me to get the pets they allow in the
dorm rooms, rather than takining my snake and getting in trouble.
Anyway, I've always wanted a fishtank of my own. Like I said before,
I'm the type of person who NEEDS a pet of some sort. Otherwise I'll
end up singing to the houseplants. I guess it's something along the
lines of maternal instinct, I have an innate need to nurture
something. I drive my friends (and family, and coworkers, LOL) nuts
with my need to nurture them. But they put up with me quite well, as
long as it's not 4:30 AM and they haven't had their coffee yet
(looong story).
AMATE PISCEM TUUM!!!
-Kathy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24479 From: kl_whitney Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
I'm a total beginner, so you don't have to listen to me. Don't even
have my aqarium set up yet. [It would be on the bottom shelf of the 50
gallon setup where my snake will live once she switches out of her
(almost too small) 20 gallon. But I have to switch rooms with my
little sister (I no longer have need of the bigger room now that I'm
going to transfer to a different college soon) before my "scaly baby"
gets a bigger "bedroom".] Anyway, I like tetras, of just about any
sort. You could get a pretty big school of several different types
with a 29 gallon, from what I've been told. That's what I'm planning
on getting once my setup is ready. Of course, I can only get about 10
neons, cause I'm getting a 10 gallon so I can take it to my dorm room.
-Kathy



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Jennifer" <OnKloudNyne@...> wrote:
>
> I am going to pick up my new 29 gallon tank today and I am very
> excited. I used to have two 20 gallon tanks a few years back, but
one
> sprung a leak in the middle of the night. I lost all my fish and it
> ruined the hardwood floors. I took a break then because I was so
> devastated, but recently got the urge to start up again.
>
> I know I can't put the fish in yet but I want to look around while I
> am at the store to see my options. Does anyone have any suggestions
> about which fish would go best together in a 29 gallon?
>
> Thanks in advance for all your help!
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24480 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Found the PERFECT tank for me @ walmart
Hi :)
Neons are very beautiful!
Please make sure if you add anything else to the tank,
even other tetras to check compatability. Not all
tetra are peacefull. Some are semi-aggresive and can
only be housed with certain other fish. Neons are very
peacefull and deserve other peacefull tank mates.
Good luck with your new "water world"
Stacey
--- kl_whitney <kwhitney@...> wrote:

> First off, I don't need more advice on what size
> tank to get.
> Already figured out I should get a 10 gallon, cause
> that'll be about
> the biggest size I can keep in a dorm room.
> Actually some dorms will
> allow a 15 gallon, but those are harder to find,
> from what I know.
> Anyway, I was at Walmart 2 days ago. I found a
> complete 10 gallon
> kit. Even comes with food. And it's only $30. If
> my dad doesn't
> have a ten gallon lying around, I will definitely
> buy the kit from
> walmart when I'm ready for fish. I'm thinking neon
> tetras from my
> local "mom and pop" pet store, rather than from a
> big box pet store.
> I figure that even though they're a bit overpriced
> ($3 each) they'll
> be much healthier where people actually know about
> fish, rather than
> getting them for as little as $1 (on sale, there are
> occasionally
> schooling fish specials) at a big box pet store,
> where no one knows
> anything about the pets they sell.
> I figure it would be best for me to get the pets
> they allow in the
> dorm rooms, rather than takining my snake and
> getting in trouble.
> Anyway, I've always wanted a fishtank of my own.
> Like I said before,
> I'm the type of person who NEEDS a pet of some sort.
> Otherwise I'll
> end up singing to the houseplants. I guess it's
> something along the
> lines of maternal instinct, I have an innate need to
> nurture
> something. I drive my friends (and family, and
> coworkers, LOL) nuts
> with my need to nurture them. But they put up with
> me quite well, as
> long as it's not 4:30 AM and they haven't had their
> coffee yet
> (looong story).
> AMATE PISCEM TUUM!!!
> -Kathy
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24481 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
That is soon for a cycle isn't it?? I am not versed in
FW, but it seems to me you didn't have your ammonia
spike over yet. Even though you tested it before you
added the fish doesn't mean it was seasoned yet. After
just a few days it can read normal, then boom you have
your spike, wait it out and then it goes to its normal
stage, then it is cured. Is this how it is with FW??
Or maybe I am misreading your cycle with quote"> I
moved them into a 55G a week ago. It was cycled
> with Bio-Spira and I
> still let everything run for 48 hours before I added
> the fish." end quote
If it spiked not only is it possible their gills were
burned, but also an accute change in behaviour.
Lenny, please advise me on this too..I am very
interested.
Stacey
--- Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:

> I looked at all of them last night (for an hour or
> so, eyerything was
> fine. This morning, he was on the side of a sponge
> filter, sort of
> wedged in between it and the back wall of the
> aquarium. I thought he
> was dead and when I touched him he zoomed away, but
> his right side eye
> is missing and the right side in general is sort of
> faded. He seems to
> be listing to one side, but now he is hanging out
> with the other Cory
> again. He is the smaller of the 2 Cory cats.
>
> The others are 1 gibbiceps pleco, 2 guppies and a
> loach, so just by
> process of elimination, I would say the loach struck
> out for some
> reason. There are no sharp corners anywhere in the
> tank that could have
> done it. They have lived together for a few months
> now, and the loach
> and the Corys always have got along, they even
> played together quite
> often.
>
> I moved them into a 55G a week ago. It was cycled
> with Bio-Spira and I
> still let everything run for 48 hours before I added
> the fish. The
> water parameters checked out okay: ammonia=0,
> nitrite=0, nitrate=5ppm.
> The pH is way too high (7.9 I am going to get some
> peat moss and run it
> in my canister filter). Oh no...I just remembered I
> did a PWC last
> night using a python. I was right there by the tank
> most of the time,
> but I had to go shut the water off. Perhaps he got
> sucked up in the
> tube and lost the eye. I thought they were all fine
> when I shut off the
> lights, but I wasn't watching for a missing eye.
>
> What do you think is most likely, just from this
> limited info? Any
> suggestions would be most appreciated. Should I
> remove the loach asap,
> or just wait and see?
> I fear this fish may still die soon. :( :(
>
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24482 From: Zinfin Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
100% silicone be safe for the tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
curious what other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24483 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Any 100% silicone will work,

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Zinfin
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?


Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
100% silicone be safe for the tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
curious what other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007 1:58 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24484 From: poul wehner Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Be careful-some home use silicone's add fungicides

Sissy Sathre wrote:
>
> Any 100% silicone will work,
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Zinfin
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:45 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
>
> Hello group,
>
> I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
> expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
> windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
> 100% silicone be safe for the tank?
>
> If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
> curious what other people have used.
>
> Thanks,
> Glen
>
> -
>
> .
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24485 From: Donna Ransome Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
No, the window/bath silicone has mildew/mold killer that also kills the
fish. There used to be a kind you could buy and use (I did so 2 years ago,
black silicone for sealing leaky car windows, etc.). But when I tried to
use the same thing 1 year ago, I did not notice the new improved formula. I
glued an in-tank background into a six foot tank (bottom, sides, and in
between the three sections). Fish dying within 24 hours. I had to scrape
every spec off the glass and rub it off the foam background, then start over
again. Expensive and upsetting lesson!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Zinfin
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 3:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?



Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
100% silicone be safe for the tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
curious what other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24486 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
If, on the label, you see the legend "Safe for aquariums", then go ahead buy it. If it is not there, bite the bullet and pay the price. You will avoid any number of chemicals that can be harmful to the inhabitants of an aquarium.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Zinfin
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 3:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?

Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
100% silicone be safe for the tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
curious what other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24487 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
It has to be 100% clear silicone, on other ingredents period. I buy the wal-mart brand , and it works fine! I just built a sump with it, and all fish,corals, shrimp, everything is fine.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Ransome
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?


No, the window/bath silicone has mildew/mold killer that also kills the
fish. There used to be a kind you could buy and use (I did so 2 years ago,
black silicone for sealing leaky car windows, etc.). But when I tried to
use the same thing 1 year ago, I did not notice the new improved formula. I
glued an in-tank background into a six foot tank (bottom, sides, and in
between the three sections). Fish dying within 24 hours. I had to scrape
every spec off the glass and rub it off the foam background, then start over
again. Expensive and upsetting lesson!

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Zinfin
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 3:45 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?

Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear
100% silicone be safe for the tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
curious what other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007 1:58 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24488 From: Jennifer Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: New Tank
In the past I had various tetras and gouramis, but I am unsure
whether I want the same thing again or not.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24489 From: nice6669 Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: oscars
how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water
sting ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24490 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: worried - Very Large Bodied Female Guppy
OK, I iso'd this little girl (about 4 month old) nearly a month ago
thinking that she was about to have fry. She just keeps getting bigger
and bigger - she is almost a square at this point - as wide as she is
long (just body not tail), and appears to have a very bad "sway" back -
when she swims near the top, her tail skims the top of the water,
although plenty of water above her and straight back along her gi-huge
belly. Does that make sense??

Is she going to explode? It sure looks like she could. I iso'd her
after she was seemingly rubbing her, then pregnant looking, belly on
the stones at the bottom. I have seen her at the top of the iso tank
MUCH more than near the bottom.

Healthy appetite, seemingly normal waste.

Thanks guys!

Betty Lou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24491 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
I have tried multiple times to put live plants in my 38 gal aquarium.
It seems like I'd do better buying a head of lettuce to put in there.
The 3 tetras, 2 danio, 1 clown loach, 1 catfish, 7 platies and 8 or so
guppies seem to think I planted a garden for them, and don't rest until
every last plant is down to the root!! I buy more, decent sized
plants, same scenario. I know they love to play hide and seek, but do
they really have to eat the whole time they are hiding???? Egads!!!
My question is how to get a heavily planted tank without going
broke??? My Bamboo is the only thing they dont seem to eat, but I want
more than bamboo!

Betty Lou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24492 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
what kind of catfish. the other fish usually dont' eat plants. Also what
type of plants. are they crypt's


In a message dated 10/28/2007 5:32:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
yourquietretreat@... writes:




I have tried multiple times to put live plants in my 38 gal aquarium.
It seems like I'd do better buying a head of lettuce to put in there.
The 3 tetras, 2 danio, 1 clown loach, 1 catfish, 7 platies and 8 or so
guppies seem to think I planted a garden for them, and don't rest until
every last plant is down to the root!! I buy more, decent sized
plants, same scenario. I know they love to play hide and seek, but do
they really have to eat the whole time they are hiding???? Egads!!!
My question is how to get a heavily planted tank without going
broke??? My Bamboo is the only thing they dont seem to eat, but I want
more than bamboo!

Betty Lou







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24493 From: William Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
I would not put more than 4 full grown oscars in a 125 gallon tank.
If you get a pair of oscars then they will want the whole tank to
themselves. They can be very aggressive towards other fish tin the
tank especially if they have young in the tank.
I would not put a fresh water sting ray in with cichlids, the
cichlids (and oscars are cichlids) like to dig in the bottom and
might injure the sting ray or the sting ray might lash out at the
other fish and injure or kill them plus the stingray would not be
getting it's fair share of food.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nice6669" <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
> how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water
> sting ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24494 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
I'd consider it to be room enough for a full grown oscar.

No on the sting ray. Tank is too small and too narrow for one of those, and they are best kept with themselves, or with fish that stay in the upper level of the water column. The best kind of tank for those, is a low tank, maybe 12, and wide enough to giv them plenty of room to turn around when full grown.maybe something along the lines of 6" x 6" x 12".

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of nice6669
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] oscars

how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water
sting ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24495 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
Stacey,

Bio-Spira, from Marineland, is a patented product/process that puts the
N-Bacteria into hibernation, under refrigeration, and when added to a newly
set up tank, it cycles the tank overnight so you can then add a full bioload
of juvi fish the next day.

I know that Bio-Spira directions advise adding the Bio-Spira and then adding
the fish the next day. If you wait too long, the N-Bacteria will start to
die off without an ammonia source... the fish. I've read that N-Bacteria
start to die off within hours of not having an ammonia source so there is a
chance that you waited too long after adding the Bio-Spira, to add the fish.
Go to http://www.marineland.com and use their "Contact Us" page and ask
them.

Also, if the Bio-Spira was not kept refrigerated during shipping and/or at
the retail store or if you purchased it online, the N-Bacteria start to die
off once they come out of hibernation and there is no source of ammonia.

As far as the PWC with the Python, when you have to leave the siphon tube in
the tank, unattended, there is the shut-off valve at the connection of the
siphon tube hose to the main hose. Turn it off when leaving the tank so you
turn off the suction. Now, when refilling the tank, do not shut that valve
off or water will spray out of the faucet valve and could end up all over
your counter/floor depending on your faucet/sink set up.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(

That is soon for a cycle isn't it?? I am not versed in FW, but it seems to
me you didn't have your ammonia spike over yet. Even though you tested it
before you added the fish doesn't mean it was seasoned yet. After just a few
days it can read normal, then boom you have your spike, wait it out and then
it goes to its normal stage, then it is cured. Is this how it is with FW??
Or maybe I am misreading your cycle with quote"> I moved them into a 55G a
week ago. It was cycled
> with Bio-Spira and I
> still let everything run for 48 hours before I added the fish." end
> quote
If it spiked not only is it possible their gills were burned, but also an
accute change in behaviour.
Lenny, please advise me on this too..I am very interested.
Stacey
--- Noah Burge <noahburge2b@... <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> >
wrote:

> I looked at all of them last night (for an hour or so, eyerything was
> fine. This morning, he was on the side of a sponge filter, sort of
> wedged in between it and the back wall of the aquarium. I thought he
> was dead and when I touched him he zoomed away, but his right side eye
> is missing and the right side in general is sort of faded. He seems to
> be listing to one side, but now he is hanging out with the other Cory
> again. He is the smaller of the 2 Cory cats.
>
> The others are 1 gibbiceps pleco, 2 guppies and a loach, so just by
> process of elimination, I would say the loach struck out for some
> reason. There are no sharp corners anywhere in the tank that could
> have done it. They have lived together for a few months now, and the
> loach and the Corys always have got along, they even played together
> quite often.
>
> I moved them into a 55G a week ago. It was cycled with Bio-Spira and I
> still let everything run for 48 hours before I added the fish. The
> water parameters checked out okay: ammonia=0, nitrite=0, nitrate=5ppm.
> The pH is way too high (7.9 I am going to get some peat moss and run
> it in my canister filter). Oh no...I just remembered I did a PWC last
> night using a python. I was right there by the tank most of the time,
> but I had to go shut the water off. Perhaps he got sucked up in the
> tube and lost the eye. I thought they were all fine when I shut off
> the lights, but I wasn't watching for a missing eye.
>
> What do you think is most likely, just from this limited info? Any
> suggestions would be most appreciated. Should I remove the loach asap,
> or just wait and see?
> I fear this fish may still die soon. :( :(
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24496 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Just make sure it doesn't advertise that it's resistant to or anti-mold or
anti-mildew as this generally means it has a mildewcide added to the caulk
which will leach into your tank and kill your fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 3:28 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?

Any 100% silicone will work,

Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Zinfin
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:45 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?

Hello group,

I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much more
expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for windows/bathrooms at
the hardware store. Would the waterproof clear 100% silicone be safe for the
tank?

If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just curious what
other people have used.

Thanks,
Glen


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24497 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: worried - Very Large Bodied Female Guppy
Gourami's have a propensity to develop bloat. It could be from constipation
but also from an internal bacterial/parasitic infection/infestation. When
you say "seemingly normal waste", describe it please. Generally, when they
have a bacteria/parasitic issue, the poop will be stringy and whitish
colored. Normal poop should be the color of their food.

If it is bacterial, I've successfully treated my previous blue gourami's
using Melafix/Pimafix cocktail but there are other meds as well...
especially if the fish is eating, then a medicated food is best.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] worried - Very Large Bodied Female Guppy

OK, I iso'd this little girl (about 4 month old) nearly a month ago thinking
that she was about to have fry. She just keeps getting bigger and bigger -
she is almost a square at this point - as wide as she is long (just body not
tail), and appears to have a very bad "sway" back - when she swims near the
top, her tail skims the top of the water, although plenty of water above her
and straight back along her gi-huge belly. Does that make sense??

Is she going to explode? It sure looks like she could. I iso'd her after she
was seemingly rubbing her, then pregnant looking, belly on the stones at the
bottom. I have seen her at the top of the iso tank MUCH more than near the
bottom.

Healthy appetite, seemingly normal waste.

Thanks guys!

Betty Lou


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24498 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
You need to add enough plants at once so that the nibbling is spread over a
lot of plants which gives them a chance to grow.

On a side note, what kind of catfish do you have? And the clown loach gets
much too large for a 38G and they should be in shoals of five or more which
means they need a really big tank for long term success. Then you can fill
out the schools for the tetras and danio's. You may already know this but
there are thousands of members in this group who may not know these stocking
tips.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 7:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fresh Water Plants - HELP!

I have tried multiple times to put live plants in my 38 gal aquarium.
It seems like I'd do better buying a head of lettuce to put in there.
The 3 tetras, 2 danio, 1 clown loach, 1 catfish, 7 platies and 8 or so
guppies seem to think I planted a garden for them, and don't rest until
every last plant is down to the root!! I buy more, decent sized plants, same
scenario. I know they love to play hide and seek, but do they really have to
eat the whole time they are hiding???? Egads!!!
My question is how to get a heavily planted tank without going broke??? My
Bamboo is the only thing they dont seem to eat, but I want more than bamboo!

Betty Lou


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24499 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
6" x 6" x 12"??? Must be a tank for one of those new species, the micro-ray
which is a close relative of the beloved sea-monkey. :-P

I'm sure Steve meant 6' x 6' x 12" deep.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

I'd consider it to be room enough for a full grown oscar.

No on the sting ray. Tank is too small and too narrow for one of those, and
they are best kept with themselves, or with fish that stay in the upper
level of the water column. The best kind of tank for those, is a low tank,
maybe 12, and wide enough to giv them plenty of room to turn around when
full grown.maybe something along the lines of 6" x 6" x 12".

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of nice6669
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] oscars

how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water sting
ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24500 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Big day today for sports people in Boston. Watching the Sox beat the Rockies and my fingers apparently did not quite follow the instructions from my brain. It is, indeed 6' x 6' x 12". Sox just won.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

6" x 6" x 12"??? Must be a tank for one of those new species, the micro-ray
which is a close relative of the beloved sea-monkey. :-P

I'm sure Steve meant 6' x 6' x 12" deep.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

I'd consider it to be room enough for a full grown oscar.

No on the sting ray. Tank is too small and too narrow for one of those, and
they are best kept with themselves, or with fish that stay in the upper
level of the water column. The best kind of tank for those, is a low tank,
maybe 12, and wide enough to giv them plenty of room to turn around when
full grown.maybe something along the lines of 6" x 6" x 12".

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of nice6669
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] oscars

how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water sting
ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1096 - Release Date: 10/27/2007
11:02 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
*´Ż`*.¸¸.><((((ş>.*´Ż`*.¸¸.*´Ż`*.¸><((((ş> ¸.*´Ż`*.¸. , .*´Ż`*..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.*´Ż`*.¸¸.*´Ż`*.¸<ş((((><¸.*´Ż`*.¸. , .*´Ż`*..<ş((((><*´Ż`*.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24501 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: oscars
Big day for the Saints too! After starting off 0-4, we've won our last
three so we're back in the hunt in the NFC South. Who dat say dey gonna
beat dem Saints? LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

Big day today for sports people in Boston. Watching the Sox beat the Rockies
and my fingers apparently did not quite follow the instructions from my
brain. It is, indeed 6' x 6' x 12". Sox just won.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 11:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

6" x 6" x 12"??? Must be a tank for one of those new species, the micro-ray
which is a close relative of the beloved sea-monkey. :-P

I'm sure Steve meant 6' x 6' x 12" deep.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 9:17 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] oscars

I'd consider it to be room enough for a full grown oscar.

No on the sting ray. Tank is too small and too narrow for one of those, and
they are best kept with themselves, or with fish that stay in the upper
level of the water column. The best kind of tank for those, is a low tank,
maybe 12, and wide enough to giv them plenty of room to turn around when
full grown.maybe something along the lines of 6" x 6" x 12".

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of nice6669
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] oscars

how many can i put in a 125 gal tank and do you think a fresh water sting
ray can be added i have mostly sand bottom



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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11:02 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24502 From: thechocolategoldfish Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Hello All

This group looks great and I'm so glad to have joined. I'm a beginner
and have just gotten a cold water 10gallon tank, with a few goldfish
in it.

When I set it up I put in an under gravel filter. I have a few
questions about it.

First off I've been doing some reading online and some are of the
opinion that this is an obsolete and useless type of
filtration ...thoughts?

I'm thinking of getting a power head for it ...Do I need to get a
power head for both intakes, or will one be good?

The power head will increase water flow, but Will it increase it too
much for such a small tank? Is it even possible to have to much flow?

Any thoughts or information you can give me would be great, Thanks in
advance ;)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24503 From: Beth Lucas Date: 10/28/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Goldfish are too big for a 10 gallon tank. Is there any way you can upgrade
for their sake?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of thechocolategoldfish
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads



Hello All

This group looks great and I'm so glad to have joined. I'm a beginner
and have just gotten a cold water 10gallon tank, with a few goldfish
in it.

When I set it up I put in an under gravel filter. I have a few
questions about it.

First off I've been doing some reading online and some are of the
opinion that this is an obsolete and useless type of
filtration ...thoughts?

I'm thinking of getting a power head for it ...Do I need to get a
power head for both intakes, or will one be good?

The power head will increase water flow, but Will it increase it too
much for such a small tank? Is it even possible to have to much flow?

Any thoughts or information you can give me would be great, Thanks in
advance ;)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24504 From: Vinni Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: stocking advice / thoughts
Hi yall my 29 gal has recently finished cycling and I was wondering about
suggestions on what to get. here is a link to the pictures of it
http://vinni-rocks.com/tankpics.html
I know its not big enough to house to much more than what I have in there.
Id like to get some Tetras maybe

any thoughts ?

Vinny


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24505 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
Wrong-O! Not ANY 100% silicone will work. If by "100% silicone" the
buyer is thinking that the product is pure silicone (without the anti-
mildew additives), this premise is erroneous. All mildew/fungus
resistant silicone sealants are labeled as 100% silicone (as are
those without the additive). "100% Silicone," as found on labels of
this sealant simply refers to this product as vs. a Latex sealant, or
and other similar sealant products in the ingredient.

BTW, there is a VAST difference between silicone sealants labeled as
usage for WINDOW and that silicone sealant labeled as usage for BATH
(you'll never find a silicone sealant labeled for "Windows/Bathrooms"
or Window/Bath); this, as window sealant normally does not require
the addition of anti-mildew (arsenic) additives. You still need to
be careful, and fully read the lables, as some of the newer products
are now adding the anti-mildew stuff to silicone sealants other than
just those intended for Kitchen & Bath. Best bet is to use GE
Silicone I Window & Door, which is free of any anti- mildew
additives. This is the original formula (once called GE Silicone
Rubber General Household Sealant), that All Glass Aquarium Company,
Inc. tanks are made of. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Any 100% silicone will work,
>
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Zinfin
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:45 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Hardware store silicone safe for the fish
tank?
>
>
> Hello group,
>
> I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks, but it is much
more
> expensive than even the best silicone you can buy for
> windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the waterproof
clear
> 100% silicone be safe for the tank?
>
> If its not safe, then of course its not worth the savings. Just
> curious what other people have used.
>
> Thanks,
> Glen
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date:
10/28/2007 1:58 PM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24506 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Agreed,use the 10g for a hospital tank
stacey
--- Beth Lucas <bethmlucas@...> wrote:

> Goldfish are too big for a 10 gallon tank. Is there
> any way you can upgrade
> for their sake?
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of thechocolategoldfish
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 10:38 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] UnderGravel Filters and
> PowerHeads
>
>
>
> Hello All
>
> This group looks great and I'm so glad to have
> joined. I'm a beginner
> and have just gotten a cold water 10gallon tank,
> with a few goldfish
> in it.
>
> When I set it up I put in an under gravel filter. I
> have a few
> questions about it.
>
> First off I've been doing some reading online and
> some are of the
> opinion that this is an obsolete and useless type of
>
> filtration ...thoughts?
>
> I'm thinking of getting a power head for it ...Do I
> need to get a
> power head for both intakes, or will one be good?
>
> The power head will increase water flow, but Will it
> increase it too
> much for such a small tank? Is it even possible to
> have to much flow?
>
> Any thoughts or information you can give me would be
> great, Thanks in
> advance ;)
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24507 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
Like someone else said, a 10G tank isn't big enough for even a single
goldfish. Fancy goldfish needed a 4' long tank with about 30G per goldfish
and common goldfish need a 8' long tank with about 50-100G per goldfish and
are best off in a pond.

Here is a 10G stocking guideline that I have on my blog, which will give you
lots of ideas of fish that will work in your tank. If the link breaks/wraps
as it will likely do with Yahoo Group emails, go to my blog in my sig and
look on the right side for "Hailey's 10G Stocking Guide" under the March
2007 blogs.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

UGF filters work OK and would be fine for a "normal" 10G tropical or cold
water tank but a UGF in a big tank for goldfish or other large fish would
definitely need the powerheads. I have an article on my blog called "Filter
Maintenance and Cleaning Suggestions" which also has a section on UGF's so
read it too.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of thechocolategoldfish
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 12:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads

Hello All

This group looks great and I'm so glad to have joined. I'm a beginner and
have just gotten a cold water 10gallon tank, with a few goldfish in it.

When I set it up I put in an under gravel filter. I have a few questions
about it.

First off I've been doing some reading online and some are of the opinion
that this is an obsolete and useless type of filtration ...thoughts?

I'm thinking of getting a power head for it ...Do I need to get a power head
for both intakes, or will one be good?

The power head will increase water flow, but Will it increase it too much
for such a small tank? Is it even possible to have to much flow?

Any thoughts or information you can give me would be great, Thanks in
advance ;)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24508 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Thanks Lenny, As you probably know from my posts I am
more well versed in sw (no expert there either) but
efficient. I am here because I am considering setting
up a fresh in my dining area. For PWC right now for my
salt, I just use a powerhead and tube attached...but I
have a sink about 4 feet away so no brainer
there...lol
Plug and play. I was just wondering about the python
and how that works, but I will stick with my PH..lol I
don't like to work too hard. But, I did measure out to
my sink and will just have to buy more hose to attach,
when I do that tank.
This site is very interesting, I have a 30g I am
trying to figure out what to do with. Considering a SW
nano, or FW planted with 2 silver streak guppies.
May as well learn so I don't burn. Fascinating there
is a product to help FW cycle so fast!
Thanks,
stacey
--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> Stacey,
>
> Bio-Spira, from Marineland, is a patented
> product/process that puts the
> N-Bacteria into hibernation, under refrigeration,
> and when added to a newly
> set up tank, it cycles the tank overnight so you can
> then add a full bioload
> of juvi fish the next day.
>
> I know that Bio-Spira directions advise adding the
> Bio-Spira and then adding
> the fish the next day. If you wait too long, the
> N-Bacteria will start to
> die off without an ammonia source... the fish. I've
> read that N-Bacteria
> start to die off within hours of not having an
> ammonia source so there is a
> chance that you waited too long after adding the
> Bio-Spira, to add the fish.
> Go to http://www.marineland.com and use their
> "Contact Us" page and ask
> them.
>
> Also, if the Bio-Spira was not kept refrigerated
> during shipping and/or at
> the retail store or if you purchased it online, the
> N-Bacteria start to die
> off once they come out of hibernation and there is
> no source of ammonia.
>
> As far as the PWC with the Python, when you have to
> leave the siphon tube in
> the tank, unattended, there is the shut-off valve at
> the connection of the
> siphon tube hose to the main hose. Turn it off when
> leaving the tank so you
> turn off the suction. Now, when refilling the tank,
> do not shut that valve
> off or water will spray out of the faucet valve and
> could end up all over
> your counter/floor depending on your faucet/sink set
> up.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Stacey Riga
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] One of my Cory cats is
> missing an eye. :(
>
> That is soon for a cycle isn't it?? I am not versed
> in FW, but it seems to
> me you didn't have your ammonia spike over yet. Even
> though you tested it
> before you added the fish doesn't mean it was
> seasoned yet. After just a few
> days it can read normal, then boom you have your
> spike, wait it out and then
> it goes to its normal stage, then it is cured. Is
> this how it is with FW??
> Or maybe I am misreading your cycle with quote"> I
> moved them into a 55G a
> week ago. It was cycled
> > with Bio-Spira and I
> > still let everything run for 48 hours before I
> added the fish." end
> > quote
> If it spiked not only is it possible their gills
> were burned, but also an
> accute change in behaviour.
> Lenny, please advise me on this too..I am very
> interested.
> Stacey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24509 From: Stacey Riga Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hardware store silicone safe for the fish tank?
why risk it????? I wouldn't want to have to deal with
the reproccutions if I didn't get the 'right' product.
I am sure there are products at the hardware store you
could use..My luck I would buy the wrong one!
stacey

--- Zinfin <zinfin@...> wrote:

> Hello group,
>
> I know you can buy silicone meant for fish tanks,
> but it is much more
> expensive than even the best silicone you can buy
> for
> windows/bathrooms at the hardware store. Would the
> waterproof clear
> 100% silicone be safe for the tank?
>
> If its not safe, then of course its not worth the
> savings. Just
> curious what other people have used.
>
> Thanks,
> Glen
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24510 From: Jennifer Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Fake Plants vs Live Plants
I was just wondering if it is possible/recommended to change from fake
plants to live plants and if so what is the best way to go about it?
I am assuming it is not wise to just change them all at once.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24511 From: harry perry Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Fake Plants vs Live Plants/Jennifer
What you might want to do is take a look at your lights. The watts per gal. will determine the kind of plant that will survive. If only 1 watt per gal. (regular hood).

Google low tech planted aquarium. That will get you started.

Harry

Jennifer <OnKloudNyne@...> wrote: I was just wondering if it is possible/recommended to change from fake
plants to live plants and if so what is the best way to go about it?
I am assuming it is not wise to just change them all at once.






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24512 From: chanzyfitz88 Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Lighting Problems
I have an 18" standard lighting fixture over my 40 gal. hex. I switched
to a plant bulb, but it's still only 15W. Is there a place where I can
buy an 18" long bulb that has more than 15watts? Internet searches have
not yield anything. Or, is there a place where I can buy a more
powerful light fixture that will fit my oddly porportioned fishtank?
Thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24513 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
There is or rather was a SW Bio-Spira also. This page
http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp talks about the FW
use but I could have sworn they had a SW version also but I can't find the
info on the site any longer.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 9:59 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] thread change to cycles

Thanks Lenny, As you probably know from my posts I am more well versed in sw
(no expert there either) but efficient. I am here because I am considering
setting up a fresh in my dining area. For PWC right now for my salt, I just
use a powerhead and tube attached...but I have a sink about 4 feet away so
no brainer there...lol Plug and play. I was just wondering about the python
and how that works, but I will stick with my PH..lol I don't like to work
too hard. But, I did measure out to my sink and will just have to buy more
hose to attach, when I do that tank.
This site is very interesting, I have a 30g I am trying to figure out what
to do with. Considering a SW nano, or FW planted with 2 silver streak
guppies.
May as well learn so I don't burn. Fascinating there is a product to help FW
cycle so fast!
Thanks,
stacey
--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
wrote:

> Stacey,
>
> Bio-Spira, from Marineland, is a patented product/process that puts
> the N-Bacteria into hibernation, under refrigeration, and when added
> to a newly set up tank, it cycles the tank overnight so you can then
> add a full bioload of juvi fish the next day.
>
> I know that Bio-Spira directions advise adding the Bio-Spira and then
> adding the fish the next day. If you wait too long, the N-Bacteria
> will start to die off without an ammonia source... the fish. I've read
> that N-Bacteria start to die off within hours of not having an ammonia
> source so there is a chance that you waited too long after adding the
> Bio-Spira, to add the fish.
> Go to http://www.marineland.com <http://www.marineland.com> and use
> their "Contact Us" page and ask them.
>
> Also, if the Bio-Spira was not kept refrigerated during shipping
> and/or at the retail store or if you purchased it online, the
> N-Bacteria start to die off once they come out of hibernation and
> there is no source of ammonia.
>
> As far as the PWC with the Python, when you have to leave the siphon
> tube in the tank, unattended, there is the shut-off valve at the
> connection of the siphon tube hose to the main hose. Turn it off when
> leaving the tank so you turn off the suction. Now, when refilling the
> tank, do not shut that valve off or water will spray out of the faucet
> valve and could end up all over your counter/floor depending on your
> faucet/sink set up.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Stacey Riga
> Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 1:21 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] One of my Cory cats is missing an eye. :(
>
> That is soon for a cycle isn't it?? I am not versed in FW, but it
> seems to me you didn't have your ammonia spike over yet. Even though
> you tested it before you added the fish doesn't mean it was seasoned
> yet. After just a few days it can read normal, then boom you have your
> spike, wait it out and then it goes to its normal stage, then it is
> cured. Is this how it is with FW??
> Or maybe I am misreading your cycle with quote"> I moved them into a
> 55G a week ago. It was cycled
> > with Bio-Spira and I
> > still let everything run for 48 hours before I
> added the fish." end
> > quote
> If it spiked not only is it possible their gills were burned, but also
> an accute change in behaviour.
> Lenny, please advise me on this too..I am very interested.
> Stacey


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24514 From: Kate Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Lighting question
Ok I know this is a really dumb question, but I have 2 Coralife mini
fixutres on my ten gallon. They each have 2, 9 watt bulbs so by
default I figured I had 3.6 watts per gallon on my tank. Should I
actually be looking at it as .9 watts per gallon since each tube is 9
watts?
Thanks,
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24515 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Drs Foster and Smith website has a marine Bio-Spira, but, the page doesn't
have have marine specific information on it. It's on sale right now, too.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] thread change to cycles


There is or rather was a SW Bio-Spira also. This page
http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp talks about the FW
use but I could have sworn they had a SW version also but I can't find the
info on the site any longer.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24516 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
You have a total of 36 watts on a 10G tank so you have 3.6 wpg. (36 divided
by 10)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 2:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting question

Ok I know this is a really dumb question, but I have 2 Coralife mini
fixutres on my ten gallon. They each have 2, 9 watt bulbs so by default I
figured I had 3.6 watts per gallon on my tank. Should I actually be looking
at it as .9 watts per gallon since each tube is 9 watts?
Thanks,
Kate


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24517 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Fresh Water Plants - HELP!
Have you tried supplementing your fish's diet with the algae tabs? The platies will especially appreciate them. you'd be surprised how many different type fish go for the tabs. Also try some Java Fern. They say fish don't like the tast of it and will leave that one alone.
Lisa

Betty Lou <yourquietretreat@...> wrote:
I have tried multiple times to put live plants in my 38 gal aquarium.
It seems like I'd do better buying a head of lettuce to put in there.
The 3 tetras, 2 danio, 1 clown loach, 1 catfish, 7 platies and 8 or so
guppies seem to think I planted a garden for them, and don't rest until
every last plant is down to the root!! I buy more, decent sized
plants, same scenario. I know they love to play hide and seek, but do
they really have to eat the whole time they are hiding???? Egads!!!
My question is how to get a heavily planted tank without going
broke??? My Bamboo is the only thing they dont seem to eat, but I want
more than bamboo!

Betty Lou






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24518 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Problems
I have the same problem with my 44 gal pentagon. I recently got a high output 24" that has 48watts and I still have my regular coralife20" with 30 watts for a total of 78. They don't fit the greatest, but my plants and fish have close to what they need.
If you don't have good fish stores in your area, look on dr's Foster and Smith website or 'that fish place' website. They both have very extensive catalogs that I can look at for hours.
There are no good fitting fixtures for tanks like ours. Unless you want to suspend something from the ceiling.

chanzyfitz88 <chanzy88@...> wrote:
I have an 18" standard lighting fixture over my 40 gal. hex. I switched
to a plant bulb, but it's still only 15W. Is there a place where I can
buy an 18" long bulb that has more than 15watts? Internet searches have
not yield anything. Or, is there a place where I can buy a more
powerful light fixture that will fit my oddly porportioned fishtank?
Thanks!






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24519 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting Problems
There are lots of places that you can find lighting equipment, but it has been a while since I have messed with lighting, so I can't really say which may be best for your needs. Determine what you wish to do with your tank--see the fish better?, plants?--and determine what type of lighting you need, and the amount you need. Once you know that, you can start to use Google to find what you want (though I am sure that people will point you to their favorite web site for equipment).

One thing that is sure is that you will need to modify or replace your existing hood to accomplish your needs. You will probably need to build your own, and when you do, be sure to use materials that will stand up to the heat and humidity you will be subjecting it to, as well as choosing for long lived clarity. Glass certainly fills the bill here, but there are other materials you will wish to take a look at, such as high quality plexi or acrylic. Else, you may need to pay big bucks for a pre-made hood to fit your tank and your lighting choice.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of chanzyfitz88
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 1:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting Problems

I have an 18" standard lighting fixture over my 40 gal. hex. I switched
to a plant bulb, but it's still only 15W. Is there a place where I can
buy an 18" long bulb that has more than 15watts? Internet searches have
not yield anything. Or, is there a place where I can buy a more
powerful light fixture that will fit my oddly porportioned fishtank?
Thanks!



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24520 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
As Lenny says, you have 36 watts on the tank, when all the lights are on
and giving optimal output. However, wattage is only one measure to go
by. Lux and lumen are also important, and often ignored by the hobbyist.
These measurements are quite similar to one another, but not
interchangeable. One light bulb of a given wattage may differ when its
output is measured by these units.

Then, of course, there are other measurements that may be of great
importance when keeping light sensitive animals or plants.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 3:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting question

Ok I know this is a really dumb question, but I have 2 Coralife mini
fixutres on my ten gallon. They each have 2, 9 watt bulbs so by
default I figured I had 3.6 watts per gallon on my tank. Should I
actually be looking at it as .9 watts per gallon since each tube is 9
watts?
Thanks,
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24521 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/29/2007
Subject: Re: thread change to cycles
Lenny,

I believe Marineland was bought out this last year. Some of the links and
products may have changed since then.

Mike

In a message dated 10/29/2007 12:03:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

There is or rather was a SW Bio-Spira also. This page
http://www.marineland.com/products/mllabs/ml_biospira.asp talks about the FW
use but I could have sworn they had a SW version also but I can't find the
info on the site any longer.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24523 From: thechocolategoldfish Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
That is the plan for the future ...I'm just getting my feet wet with
this one ...any thoughts on the filter tho?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24524 From: Lee Ann Peavy Brigham Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of Florida.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24526 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I don't think there is such a specialized site. You would need to post a
"Wanted" ad and check the other ads in your local Freecycle.org,
Craigslist.org and check with your local animal shelter.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lee Ann Peavy Brigham
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of Florida.



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1098 - Release Date: 10/29/2007
9:28 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24527 From: Donna Camp Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Try Craigslist as well as freecycle.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham" <mysecret32506@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:10 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site


I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of Florida.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24528 From: Sam Palermo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: UnderGravel Filters and PowerHeads
I have found that the canister filters work better and are easier to deal with especially when connected with quick disconnect type hoses. Also the rear tank smaller filter can do the job while the larger canister is cleaned and resupplied with media. I believe in a multi-layer approach in the use of filters in that I will use a canister filter for the main job also it provides for a lot of aeration in the return of the water then a rear filter for the stuff (chemicals) the other filter misses or if saturated early and then I recently added a couple foam/air filters to the tank to help out in that area- they will take a couple of weeks to establish. The tank 55 Gal also has a UV sterilizer on it as well. yes, there can be connected or added a lot of devices or mechanism to a tank in this hobby but the end result is that the fish live out as much of their natural life as can be had- not to be limited by human lack of control.

Sam,

thechocolategoldfish <thechocolategoldfish@...> wrote: That is the plan for the future ...I'm just getting my feet wet with
this one ...any thoughts on the filter tho?





Best regards,

Sam Palermo, Chief Engineer
Skywave Broadcast Engineering, Chicago
(708) 334-2260 Cell
(312) 329-2043 FM Off

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24529 From: jett07002 Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Fake Plants vs Live Plants
Hi Jennifer:
From the way you phrased your question I think you're asking if live
plants are better than plastic plants. As a believer in a system as
close to nature as possible, I would say of course they are. Can you
change them all at once? Of course you can. The plastic plants are
not doing a thing except for looking nice and a place for timid fish
and fry to hide.
The main thing to consider is that you are now dealing with another
live thing in the tank. Being live, they have needs, and that means a
little more work on your part and maybe a few changes to your tank.
So, do your homework the same way you would if you were buying a fish.
See what the plants requirements are, if you're going to like the way
it looks when it's grown. Is it going to outgrow the tank? Do you
have enough light? Stuff like that.
But having live plants ---to me, anyway,---helps complete the nature
"cycle" in the tank. Live plants do a lot of good things in a tank,
like the exchange of gases. etc. but if you don't care for them, then
you just introduce another problem.

joet



>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24530 From: Kate Conrow Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Lighting question
That's what I thought. Thanks Lenny!
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
You have a total of 36 watts on a 10G tank so you have 3.6 wpg. (36 divided
by 10)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 2:11 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lighting question

Ok I know this is a really dumb question, but I have 2 Coralife mini
fixutres on my ten gallon. They each have 2, 9 watt bulbs so by default I
figured I had 3.6 watts per gallon on my tank. Should I actually be looking
at it as .9 watts per gallon since each tube is 9 watts?
Thanks,
Kate


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 10/28/2007
1:58 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24531 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Just be aware that there are some moderators who frown on this on
Freecycle - best to email them private first. They say you wouldn't
take your dog to the landfill, so it doesn't qualify. I beg to differ,
but that is their job, to keep te posts relevent. I did talk my mod
into letting me post a stray that we were keeping with the cooperation
of the local humane society, as long as any interest was directed to
the pound and the adoption was thru them - hence more than one animal
might prosper from the post.

Betty Lou

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Try Craigslist as well as freecycle.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham" <mysecret32506@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:10 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site
>
>
> I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
> rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
Florida.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24532 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Every group starts somewhere, Yahoo groups are free, you could be a
pioneer in the field, and start your own FishFinder - although
PetFinder might take exception to that name!!

Fish to Good Home (instead of Free to Good Home); Free Fish Fry; Pets,
Peavy Style; - OK, it's past my bed time and my humor has obviously
gone to bed without me!

Betty Lou Kline


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham"
<mysecret32506@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
> rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
Florida.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24533 From: Foxtrotter Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I'm an owner of my local freecycle and free fish doesn't qualify for a
group. They are really picky, and the "freecycle" is a trade mark and you
can't use it.

You could start a yahoo group though and call it something like "Rehoming
Fish" for free, haha

Debbie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Betty Lou" <yourquietretreat@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:24 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site


Just be aware that there are some moderators who frown on this on
Freecycle - best to email them private first. They say you wouldn't
take your dog to the landfill, so it doesn't qualify. I beg to differ,
but that is their job, to keep te posts relevent. I did talk my mod
into letting me post a stray that we were keeping with the cooperation
of the local humane society, as long as any interest was directed to
the pound and the adoption was thru them - hence more than one animal
might prosper from the post.

Betty Lou

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Try Craigslist as well as freecycle.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham" <mysecret32506@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:10 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site
>
>
> I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
> rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
Florida.
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24534 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Lee Ann,

Use Google to see if there are any rescue groups in your area. The
animals may not be free, but they should be fairly inexpensive.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 10:29 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site

I don't think there is such a specialized site. You would need to post
a
"Wanted" ad and check the other ads in your local Freecycle.org,
Craigslist.org and check with your local animal shelter.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Lee Ann Peavy Brigham
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of Florida.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24535 From: Betty Lou Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site Getting a little of
I've got all the garter snakes and blue racers you can catch - bring a
lot of pillow cases - FREE to good home - heck I might even pay YOU!!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham"
<mysecret32506@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
> rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
Florida.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24536 From: William Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site Getting a littl
You might try http://groups.yahoo.com/group/swmopetcycle/ , it is not
very busy but it is something to look at. There are a few other
yahoo groups that are related to giving and receiving free or next to
free pets and supplies.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Betty Lou"
<yourquietretreat@...> wrote:
>
> I've got all the garter snakes and blue racers you can catch -
bring a
> lot of pillow cases - FREE to good home - heck I might even pay
YOU!!
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham"
> <mysecret32506@> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or
small
> > rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
> Florida.
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24537 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
On the freecycle group I belong to, there have been a lot of posts, of late, for common livebearers, and one for fish that probably should not have been on there, since they needed a certain amount of knowledge. However, that person did quiz everyone who replied, but I do not know if she was able to move the fish. There have even been dogs and cats offered, something my other half did not take kindly to (she is a dog person through and through--need your dog trained in Northern Virginia? Drop me a line and I'll pass your info over to her.).

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Betty Lou
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 8:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

Just be aware that there are some moderators who frown on this on
Freecycle - best to email them private first. They say you wouldn't
take your dog to the landfill, so it doesn't qualify. I beg to differ,
but that is their job, to keep te posts relevent. I did talk my mod
into letting me post a stray that we were keeping with the cooperation
of the local humane society, as long as any interest was directed to
the pound and the adoption was thru them - hence more than one animal
might prosper from the post.

Betty Lou

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Donna Camp" <drollier@...> wrote:
>
> Try Craigslist as well as freecycle.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lee Ann Peavy Brigham" <mysecret32506@...>
> To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:10 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site
>
>
> I am looking for a site that has fish and reptiles for free or small
> rehoming fee. Would be nice if it was close to the panhandle of
Florida.
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24538 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/30/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
giveandreceivefreefish is a yahoogrooup.

I assist as a moderator.

I cannot tell you if anyone is near you, but it is worth a try.

Mike



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24539 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the LFS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24540 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
It will look brighter as it is newer but what is the color of the bulb. the
F15 is the wattage and the t8 is the bulb size. Whether or not you need to
change the bulb would have to do with if you have plants. That is the color
spectrum of the output would come in.


In a message dated 10/31/2007 2:18:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
shrlycat@... writes:




The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the LFS?







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24541 From: Sean C. Figueroa Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
Agreed. If you're not keeping plants or corals, just go with which ever light makes the fish look better. Keep up on your algae scraping and the tank should stay nice and pretty. :)

Enjoy!

Sean


----- Original Message -----
From: joesbirds@...
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:21 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...


It will look brighter as it is newer but what is the color of the bulb. the
F15 is the wattage and the t8 is the bulb size. Whether or not you need to
change the bulb would have to do with if you have plants. That is the color
spectrum of the output would come in.


In a message dated 10/31/2007 2:18:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
shrlycat@... writes:

The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the LFS?

************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24542 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
I have a plant in the aquarium - I think it's a bamboo - it has long,
sword-like leaves. So is this light bad for the plant or what?

Thanks for the advice.
Shirley


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Agreed. If you're not keeping plants or corals, just go with which
ever light makes the fish look better. Keep up on your algae scraping
and the tank should stay nice and pretty. :)
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Sean
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: joesbirds@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and
bath use ok for aqua...
>
>
> It will look brighter as it is newer but what is the color of the
bulb. the
> F15 is the wattage and the t8 is the bulb size. Whether or not you
need to
> change the bulb would have to do with if you have plants. That is
the color
> spectrum of the output would come in.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/31/2007 2:18:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> shrlycat@... writes:
>
> The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
> today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
> there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
> model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
> it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
> better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
> more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
> bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.
>
> Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from
the LFS?
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24543 From: deberhardt85 Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Fish Breeding
Does anyone breed fish on this group??? If so where do you sell them
at, I just started breeding Malawi Cichilds, mostly mbuna, I have
electric blue johanni, yellow labs, haps, zebra, etc. They breed in a
220, are stripped into a 10, and grow more after healthy in a 29.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24544 From: Cynthia Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or
animal related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24545 From: Dragon Hunter Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Happy Halloween!
Happy Halloween to everyone on the list! Remember to give your critters a treat or they'll give you a nasty trick in the morning! lol

-Steve

(Just 54 shopping days till Christmas!)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24546 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
I breed a few fish here and there mostly wild bettas , angels. Trying to get
my chocolate gouramis going but they are still young. . Also apistos. I
usually trade them at lfs's or you could try aquabid.


In a message dated 10/31/2007 4:36:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
deberhardt85@... writes:




Does anyone breed fish on this group??? If so where do you sell them
at, I just started breeding Malawi Cichilds, mostly mbuna, I have
electric blue johanni, yellow labs, haps, zebra, etc. They breed in a
220, are stripped into a 10, and grow more after healthy in a 29.







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24547 From: ipartyforfun Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
What state do you live in?

Yuo could try buddying up with a LFS and getting paid for them or a
credit for merchandise in the store, or, try selling them through the
paper or your local Craigslist.

:)
Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24548 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
Each bulb has a different rating for the color of the spectrum it puts
out. You will see aquarium bulbs rated as 5,000K 10,000K, or something
similar. Your fish and plant should be OK under the bulb you have,
though it may really be a bit too bright for your comfort. I believe
that you can find some good articles on lighting on the AGA web site
(That's Aquatic Gardeners Association), particularly as some bulbs
relate to plants.

Lighting can be a very complex topic, especially with all that we face
as aquarists, and the number and types of bulbs available to us. As
such, a lot of the "rules" you see and hear about lighting are little
more than old wives tales, like many of the ones for fishkeeping.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 5:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use
ok for aquarium?

The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the
LFS?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24549 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
I've used regular fluorescent bulbs on my tanks. I have a shop light
fixture over my goldfish tank. LOL

I think the bulb type matters more when you have plants but for plain
visibility, it will work fine but since it's a new bulb, it's obviously
going to be brighter so you'll have to watch how long you leave it on. Most
sites recommend changing fluorescent bulbs every six months but for
non-planted tanks or for low light plants and floating plants that are up
close to the light, I don't change them till they burn out or start to
flicker.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok
for aquarium?

The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS today,
but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check there. The grocery
store had one the right length and with the same model # on it - F15T8 - but
it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put it in and the light is obviously
different (brighter)and I like it better, but I realize it may not be better
for the fish and may cause more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had
the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the LFS?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24550 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
If it's a lucky bamboo plant (which is not actually a bamboo), then the
leaves should definitely NOT be under water, in fact, only the bottom couple
of inches of the stalk should be under water. You need to find out what
kind of plant it is. Many stores sell bog plants as aquarium plants and
they will die prematurely and foul the water. Take a pic of the plant and
post it in an online photo album and give us the link so someone can
identify it for you.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 5:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use
ok for aqua...

I have a plant in the aquarium - I think it's a bamboo - it has long,
sword-like leaves. So is this light bad for the plant or what?

Thanks for the advice.
Shirley

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Sean C. Figueroa"
<scfigueroa@...> wrote:
>
> Agreed. If you're not keeping plants or corals, just go with which
ever light makes the fish look better. Keep up on your algae scraping and
the tank should stay nice and pretty. :)
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Sean
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: joesbirds@...
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and
bath use ok for aqua...
>
>
> It will look brighter as it is newer but what is the color of the
bulb. the
> F15 is the wattage and the t8 is the bulb size. Whether or not you
need to
> change the bulb would have to do with if you have plants. That is
the color
> spectrum of the output would come in.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/31/2007 2:18:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> shrlycat@... writes:
>
> The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
> today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
> there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
> model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
> it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
> better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
> more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
> bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.
>
> Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from
the LFS?
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24551 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Hmmmm. It seems that the "tree-hugger" mindset behind the startup of
Freecycle would be in favor of also providing a place to rehome living pets.


As long as they are being given away for free, I don't see the problem.
Does anyone know the logic, or lack thereof, for the reason(s) not to allow
living pets on Freecycle?

Sorry if anyone is offended by the term "tree-hugger" but I think
"environmentalist whacko" would be even more offensive. LOL Even
Mongabay.com (one of the best sites on the internet for fish profiles but
also a tree-hugger site) has a section called "tree-huggers" so it shouldn't
be considered offensive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cynthia
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 5:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or animal
related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon


_

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24552 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
If you have a local club in the area, you can join it and bring them to
the auctions. You could ask at your local fish stores, but it is likely
they will give you credit rather than cash, if they think they can sell
your fish. Aquabid was mentioned, but that would require shipping, and
you do need to know the ins and outs of preparing your fish for
shipping, packing the fish to ensure safe and healthy arrival, etc. You
could ask for members here that would be interested for sale or trade
who may be local to you.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of deberhardt85
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 11:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fish Breeding

Does anyone breed fish on this group??? If so where do you sell them
at, I just started breeding Malawi Cichilds, mostly mbuna, I have
electric blue johanni, yellow labs, haps, zebra, etc. They breed in a
220, are stripped into a 10, and grow more after healthy in a 29.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24553 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I just looked it up at the main site, and it is mainly up to the
individual groups to decide whether pet offering are allowed. The only
exception is that no animal may be offered or requested for breeding.
So, if your group says no, then you cannot do it, however, the group
geographically next to you may allow it.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Cynthia
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site

fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or
animal related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24554 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Lenny,

I am on the same page as you with this one.

Often the animal rights crowd think that free pets will be used for snake
food or illegal animal experiments or some other boogey man.

Most rescues also get a good sized fee to recoup money spent on caring for
"rescued" pets.

I see no problem with free pets on freecycle either. For a short while one
of my local freecycles allowed it. It really helped a few animals get into new
homes without the hassles of "contracts" like Ellen DeGeneres recently had
her heart broken over.



In a message dated 10/31/2007 7:35:41 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Hmmmm. It seems that the "tree-hugger" mindset behind the startup of
Freecycle would be in favor of also providing a place to rehome living pets.


As long as they are being given away for free, I don't see the problem.
Does anyone know the logic, or lack thereof, for the reason(s) not to allow
living pets on Freecycle?

Sorry if anyone is offended by the term "tree-hugger" but I think
"environmentalist whacko" would be even more offensive. LOL Even
Mongabay.com (one of the best sites on the internet for fish profiles but
also a tree-hugger site) has a section called "tree-huggers" so it shouldn't
be considered offensive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com






************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24555 From: Steve Szabo Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Happy Halloween!
Or, as the retail establishment would have it, Merry Thanksgivingween
Eve". <G>

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dragon Hunter
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 8:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Happy Halloween!

Happy Halloween to everyone on the list! Remember to give your critters
a treat or they'll give you a nasty trick in the morning! lol

-Steve

(Just 54 shopping days till Christmas!)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24556 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I decided to look it up on FreeCycle.org and...

Mission Statement - "Our mission is to build a worldwide gifting movement
that reduces waste, saves precious resources & eases the burden on our
landfills while enabling our members to benefit from the strength of a
larger community."

FAQ-12 - CAN WE USE FREECYCLE GROUPS TO FIND NEW HOMES FOR PETS? Some groups
say yes, but keep it legal & lovingly careful. Other groups say no, please
refer to Petfinder (www.petfinder.com) to find a pet locally. It depends on
what you and your fellow members have decided on locally. However, posts
about pets for breeding purposes are not allowed in Freecycle groups.

It seems that the main organization should take a position on this. Right
now, it allows some local groups to let pets become roadkill and go into the
landfill while other local groups can help rehome the pet to keep it from
becoming roadkill or euthanized at the local animal shelter. At least the
main site does give out the info on Petfinder.com which allows free
classifieds but unfortunately, Petfinder.com doesn't have a section for
Fish. They have sections for Birds, Reptiles and "Small & Fury" but nothing
about "Wet & Slippery" but for the O.P., at least there is a place to find
reptiles.

Maybe we should all contact Petfinder.com and ask them to add Fish to their
"breeds" section. Here is the page to make a suggestion (all the way at the
bottom). http://www.petfinder.com/publicreceptiondesk.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:47 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?)
site

I just looked it up at the main site, and it is mainly up to the individual
groups to decide whether pet offering are allowed. The only exception is
that no animal may be offered or requested for breeding.
So, if your group says no, then you cannot do it, however, the group
geographically next to you may allow it.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Cynthia
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or animal
related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24557 From: William Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
I checked out the link under reptiles and low and behold they have a
listing for fish. I know that fish are not reptiles but that is where
the fish section is found.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I decided to look it up on FreeCycle.org and...
>
> Mission Statement - "Our mission is to build a worldwide gifting
movement
> that reduces waste, saves precious resources & eases the burden on
our
> landfills while enabling our members to benefit from the strength
of a
> larger community."
>
> FAQ-12 - CAN WE USE FREECYCLE GROUPS TO FIND NEW HOMES FOR PETS?
Some groups
> say yes, but keep it legal & lovingly careful. Other groups say no,
please
> refer to Petfinder (www.petfinder.com) to find a pet locally. It
depends on
> what you and your fellow members have decided on locally. However,
posts
> about pets for breeding purposes are not allowed in Freecycle
groups.
>
> It seems that the main organization should take a position on
this. Right
> now, it allows some local groups to let pets become roadkill and go
into the
> landfill while other local groups can help rehome the pet to keep
it from
> becoming roadkill or euthanized at the local animal shelter. At
least the
> main site does give out the info on Petfinder.com which allows free
> classifieds but unfortunately, Petfinder.com doesn't have a section
for
> Fish. They have sections for Birds, Reptiles and "Small & Fury"
but nothing
> about "Wet & Slippery" but for the O.P., at least there is a place
to find
> reptiles.
>
> Maybe we should all contact Petfinder.com and ask them to add Fish
to their
> "breeds" section. Here is the page to make a suggestion (all the
way at the
> bottom). http://www.petfinder.com/publicreceptiondesk.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:47 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile
freecycle(?)
> site
>
> I just looked it up at the main site, and it is mainly up to the
individual
> groups to decide whether pet offering are allowed. The only
exception is
> that no animal may be offered or requested for breeding.
> So, if your group says no, then you cannot do it, however, the group
> geographically next to you may allow it.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Cynthia
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle
(?) site
>
> fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or
animal
> related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date:
10/30/2007
> 6:26 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24558 From: Eric Roberts Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aquarium?
I still have the original bulbs that came with my tank when I bout it almost
6 years ago hehehe. I am with you on that Lenny. My tanks and plants are
doing just fine.

Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use
ok for aquarium?

I've used regular fluorescent bulbs on my tanks. I have a shop light
fixture over my goldfish tank. LOL

I think the bulb type matters more when you have plants but for plain
visibility, it will work fine but since it's a new bulb, it's obviously
going to be brighter so you'll have to watch how long you leave it on. Most
sites recommend changing fluorescent bulbs every six months but for
non-planted tanks or for low light plants and floating plants that are up
close to the light, I don't change them till they burn out or start to
flicker.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 4:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok
for aquarium?

The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS today,
but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check there. The grocery
store had one the right length and with the same model # on it - F15T8 - but
it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put it in and the light is obviously
different (brighter)and I like it better, but I realize it may not be better
for the fish and may cause more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had
the following on the
bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.

Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from the LFS?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24559 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 10/31/2007
Subject: Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site
Well, I sent them a contact us form message saying they should have a
section for "Fish". I may send them another message letting them know that
fish aren't reptiles. Maybe the scales fooled them... or maybe since frogs
start off in the water as tadpoles, it can get so confusing. LOL

I did a search for "goldfish" and nothing showed up. I did a search for
"fish" and only 23 hits so the site definitely needs a fish section since
people don't realize they should post under reptiles. I know I wouldn't
have guessed that.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 11:18 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle(?) site

I checked out the link under reptiles and low and behold they have a listing
for fish. I know that fish are not reptiles but that is where the fish
section is found.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I decided to look it up on FreeCycle.org and...
>
> Mission Statement - "Our mission is to build a worldwide gifting
movement
> that reduces waste, saves precious resources & eases the burden on
our
> landfills while enabling our members to benefit from the strength
of a
> larger community."
>
> FAQ-12 - CAN WE USE FREECYCLE GROUPS TO FIND NEW HOMES FOR PETS?
Some groups
> say yes, but keep it legal & lovingly careful. Other groups say no,
please
> refer to Petfinder (www.petfinder.com) to find a pet locally. It
depends on
> what you and your fellow members have decided on locally. However,
posts
> about pets for breeding purposes are not allowed in Freecycle
groups.
>
> It seems that the main organization should take a position on
this. Right
> now, it allows some local groups to let pets become roadkill and go
into the
> landfill while other local groups can help rehome the pet to keep
it from
> becoming roadkill or euthanized at the local animal shelter. At
least the
> main site does give out the info on Petfinder.com which allows free
> classifieds but unfortunately, Petfinder.com doesn't have a section
for
> Fish. They have sections for Birds, Reptiles and "Small & Fury"
but nothing
> about "Wet & Slippery" but for the O.P., at least there is a place
to find
> reptiles.
>
> Maybe we should all contact Petfinder.com and ask them to add Fish
to their
> "breeds" section. Here is the page to make a suggestion (all the
way at the
> bottom). http://www.petfinder.com/publicreceptiondesk.html
> <http://www.petfinder.com/publicreceptiondesk.html>
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 9:47 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile
freecycle(?)
> site
>
> I just looked it up at the main site, and it is mainly up to the
individual
> groups to decide whether pet offering are allowed. The only
exception is
> that no animal may be offered or requested for breeding.
> So, if your group says no, then you cannot do it, however, the group
> geographically next to you may allow it.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Cynthia
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Looking for a fish and reptile freecycle
(?) site
>
> fyi freecycle has developed a policy on posts about animals or
animal
> related they are not allowed and are very frowned upon
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date:
10/30/2007
> 6:26 PM

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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date: 10/30/2007
6:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24560 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
To Whom(?) It May Concern (Please sign your posts);
In answer to your first question, a poll had been taken on this group
started on March 24, 2005, asking "which title(s) best describes
you . . . ?" Twenty five (25) of the respondents checked off "Breeder"
in this survey. I have no idea how many respondents there were in
total since each member was encouraged to check off as many of the 26
different categories as applied to them (I check 15 categories myself),
so there were 525 replies from an unknown number of respondents. A
figure of 4% was given as Breeders but that figure was very misleading
as the result of multiple categories invited to be check off by any one
person.

Noting that you are breeding all your Malawi Cichlids in one tank, it
is highly probable that at least some of the fry you are raising and
now looking to sell may well be hybrids. Not only are hybrids
undesireable by most Rift Lake Cichlid enthusiasts, but if you attempt
to sell or trade them it should be understood by the receiver of these
fish as to just what they are as a policy of remaining honest, so as
not to mislead the receiving party.

I would actually tend to disuade you from spreading these hybrids
around in the interest of keeping pure species going in the hobby,
without the distinct possibility of hybrids inadvertantly getting mixed
into the gene pools of them, should some (or none!) miscommunication
occur with these fish somewhere down the line.

At best, these fish should be referred to as "Mixed Cichlids" since it
appears you are raising all fry from all species in one 29 gallon tank,
and the odds of your mixing them up as to just what "species" they are.
are extremely high -- especially the females which can look so similar
species to species.

If you interest is in breeding, raising and selling Malawi Cichlids, I
would strongly urge you to set up dedicated breeding tanks for single
species only (as should be done), and to raise them isolated from other
fry. Quality Rift Lake Cichlids will always find a waiting market!
The better local fish stores will usually gladly buy them, depending on
their species and size (and asking price), as well as Fish Wholesalers
if you have a quantity of them. Depending also on your area and your
proximity to a local fish club, such clubs often hold fish auctions
where you would get 50% to 60% of the proceeds (the club getting the
remainder), and these auction may be held twice a year for the public,
and/or monthly at their club meetings. While some of your Malawi
Mbunas are getting to be commonplace (they'll still sell though, if
good and they're priced accordingly), Yellow Labs will always sell,
provided they are good, as quality Yellow Labs are always in demand.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone breed fish on this group??? If so where do you sell them
> at, I just started breeding Malawi Cichilds, mostly mbuna, I have
> electric blue johanni, yellow labs, haps, zebra, etc. They breed in
a
> 220, are stripped into a 10, and grow more after healthy in a 29.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24561 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Lucky Bamboo Plants
I think it was Lenny that wrote that Lucky Bamboo should only be kept
wet on the bottom - that the leaves should not be underwater. Maybe I
am just lucky (lucky - get it?<G>) but I have had about 25 Lucky Bamboo
plants in my 55 gallon for about three years now. The problem I have is
that the tops keep growing and growing thus making them too tall for the
hood and then they start bending to spread along the top of the water.
I tried cutting off the bottom of one hoping to re-root it but it died.

The weird thing is one of my staff at work has a Lucky Bamboo in a vase
with the leaves exposed. He has had that thing for about five years and
it hasn't grown any taller.

Paula in Monroe, Michigan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24562 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: HOB Use on Planted Tank
I have an established 55 gallon with some tetras and danios that I have
really done nothing to for about six or so years (I am bad about
vacumming and partial water changes!). There are quite a few plants in
there (mostly lucky bamboo) so I am guessing that is what has saved me
(I just run a HOB Whisper). I am planning on filling in some spaces
with new plants that I recently purchased. Unfortunately I made the
mistake of getting some java moss some years ago and I still regret it!
That stuff is awful. I empty at least a bag of it once a month (though
I am amazed at the number of Freecyclers that will take it from me even
when I tell them how invasive it is!).

I just set up a 5 gallon planted tank last weekend using all
established water from my 55 gallon (it finally got a partial water
change!<G>). I know the lighting is too low on it so will be purchasing
a stronger plant bulb (preferably red) this weekend. I am running a
Penguin HOB on it but not sure if I should be or not. I am reading many
different reviews about having a filter on a planted tank with no fish.
I am not running a heater but it really isn't by any drafts so I am
hoping my home temperature will be sufficient.

Part of me is now wondering about adding a couple of White Clouds in
the plant tank since they don't need the heater. If I do, I will keep
the HOB on the small tank. But if I don't, do ya'll suggest my running
the filter or just adding an airstone?

Also, does anyone know a trick to removing the carbon from the Penguin
filter cartridges (just in case I keep it running)? I am assuming the
carbon is not good for a planted tank (or is it?).

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24563 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Hmmm. I know when someone gave me a lucky bamboo plant for my office a
couple of years ago, I went online to find the proper care but I just
re-read a couple of sites and the only thing they said is that roots will
start growing out of all parts of the stalk, instead of just out of the
bottom, and the stalk will grow out of the water since the leaves don't like
to be under water, as you are seeing.

You might be better off using the little plastic breeding "cages" that hang
on the inside of the tank and then you could leave just the stalks in your
tank to help remove nitrates/phosphates without submerging the leaves. I
thought about doing this once before with mine. Some sites say the plant is
toxic to cats/dogs but doesn't mention fish so if you have fish that eat
plants (like my goldfish), you may want to be careful also.... but maybe the
fish learn which ones not to eat.

Mine is still in a vase with the rocks in the bottom and is about 3' tall
now. I just change the water out each week and add fish water from my PWC's
as the lucky bamboo plants don't like tap water either because of the
fluoride and chlorine.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 12:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lucky Bamboo Plants

I think it was Lenny that wrote that Lucky Bamboo should only be kept wet on
the bottom - that the leaves should not be underwater. Maybe I am just lucky
(lucky - get it?<G>) but I have had about 25 Lucky Bamboo plants in my 55
gallon for about three years now. The problem I have is that the tops keep
growing and growing thus making them too tall for the hood and then they
start bending to spread along the top of the water.
I tried cutting off the bottom of one hoping to re-root it but it died.

The weird thing is one of my staff at work has a Lucky Bamboo in a vase with
the leaves exposed. He has had that thing for about five years and it hasn't
grown any taller.

Paula in Monroe, Michigan


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.16/1102 - Release Date: 10/31/2007
4:38 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24564 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
I agree with Ray, your lab and zebra fry should definitely never leave your
home.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 8:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish Breeding



To Whom(?) It May Concern (Please sign your posts);
In answer to your first question, a poll had been taken on this group
started on March 24, 2005, asking "which title(s) best describes
you . . . ?" Twenty five (25) of the respondents checked off "Breeder"
in this survey. I have no idea how many respondents there were in
total since each member was encouraged to check off as many of the 26
different categories as applied to them (I check 15 categories myself),
so there were 525 replies from an unknown number of respondents. A
figure of 4% was given as Breeders but that figure was very misleading
as the result of multiple categories invited to be check off by any one
person.

Noting that you are breeding all your Malawi Cichlids in one tank, it
is highly probable that at least some of the fry you are raising and
now looking to sell may well be hybrids. Not only are hybrids
undesireable by most Rift Lake Cichlid enthusiasts, but if you attempt
to sell or trade them it should be understood by the receiver of these
fish as to just what they are as a policy of remaining honest, so as
not to mislead the receiving party.

I would actually tend to disuade you from spreading these hybrids
around in the interest of keeping pure species going in the hobby,
without the distinct possibility of hybrids inadvertantly getting mixed
into the gene pools of them, should some (or none!) miscommunication
occur with these fish somewhere down the line.

At best, these fish should be referred to as "Mixed Cichlids" since it
appears you are raising all fry from all species in one 29 gallon tank,
and the odds of your mixing them up as to just what "species" they are.
are extremely high -- especially the females which can look so similar
species to species.

If you interest is in breeding, raising and selling Malawi Cichlids, I
would strongly urge you to set up dedicated breeding tanks for single
species only (as should be done), and to raise them isolated from other
fry. Quality Rift Lake Cichlids will always find a waiting market!
The better local fish stores will usually gladly buy them, depending on
their species and size (and asking price), as well as Fish Wholesalers
if you have a quantity of them. Depending also on your area and your
proximity to a local fish club, such clubs often hold fish auctions
where you would get 50% to 60% of the proceeds (the club getting the
remainder), and these auction may be held twice a year for the public,
and/or monthly at their club meetings. While some of your Malawi
Mbunas are getting to be commonplace (they'll still sell though, if
good and they're priced accordingly), Yellow Labs will always sell,
provided they are good, as quality Yellow Labs are always in demand.
Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> Does anyone breed fish on this group??? If so where do you sell them
> at, I just started breeding Malawi Cichilds, mostly mbuna, I have
> electric blue johanni, yellow labs, haps, zebra, etc. They breed in
a
> 220, are stripped into a 10, and grow more after healthy in a 29.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24565 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
I have had these growing in several tanks for several years, but all of
them with just the bottoms in the water and the leaves growing out the
top. I haven't had any problems with roots growing out anywhere except
the bottom on the cut pieces. I've also had really limited success with
cutting them and starting new plants. I haven't tried to grow them
emersed. It's my understanding that lucky bamboo aren't really a bamboo
at all but a type of Dracaena. Another plant that I've had a lot of fun
growing out of tanks are the peace lilies. They just like their roots
wet too. I have a potted one in a half filled tank, under shop lights,
that blooms several times a year.

Rhonda



Paula Brown wrote:
>
> I think it was Lenny that wrote that Lucky Bamboo should only be kept
> wet on the bottom - that the leaves should not be underwater. Maybe I
> am just lucky (lucky - get it?<G>) but I have had about 25 Lucky Bamboo
> plants in my 55 gallon for about three years now. The problem I have is
> that the tops keep growing and growing thus making them too tall for the
> hood and then they start bending to spread along the top of the water.
> I tried cutting off the bottom of one hoping to re-root it but it died.
>
> The weird thing is one of my staff at work has a Lucky Bamboo in a vase
> with the leaves exposed. He has had that thing for about five years and
> it hasn't grown any taller.
>
> Paula in Monroe, Michigan
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24566 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
Paula,

Give your friend some of your fish water from each water change. That
will probably help the growth, with al that good nitrate and stuff.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 1:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Lucky Bamboo Plants

I think it was Lenny that wrote that Lucky Bamboo should only be kept
wet on the bottom - that the leaves should not be underwater. Maybe I
am just lucky (lucky - get it?<G>) but I have had about 25 Lucky Bamboo
plants in my 55 gallon for about three years now. The problem I have is
that the tops keep growing and growing thus making them too tall for the
hood and then they start bending to spread along the top of the water.
I tried cutting off the bottom of one hoping to re-root it but it died.

The weird thing is one of my staff at work has a Lucky Bamboo in a vase
with the leaves exposed. He has had that thing for about five years and
it hasn't grown any taller.

Paula in Monroe, Michigan
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24567 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/1/2007
Subject: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
I'm really attracted to the idea of setting up a tank to showcase Zoanthids.
Not a big tank, because I already have enough tank maintenance (freshwater).
But maybe something small with Zoos, Green Star Polyps and maybe a
pseudochromis fridmani.

Then instead of collecting fish, I would add colorful zoos.

I've heard they are easy (for marine, and for corals) and that they are
hard, especially the blues.

Any other Zoo fanatics out there?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24568 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
Hey Donna, Do you already have the tank set up and
running? I am buying my first coral at the end of this
month.
Stacey
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> I'm really attracted to the idea of setting up a
> tank to showcase Zoanthids.
> Not a big tank, because I already have enough tank
> maintenance (freshwater).
> But maybe something small with Zoos, Green Star
> Polyps and maybe a
> pseudochromis fridmani.
>
> Then instead of collecting fish, I would add
> colorful zoos.
>
> I've heard they are easy (for marine, and for
> corals) and that they are
> hard, especially the blues.
>
> Any other Zoo fanatics out there?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24569 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
this is where I am looking to get ideas and read a bit
about each one, since some are difficult and some
easy?
It also tells what kind of lighting equired for each?
http://www.liveaquaria.com/search/default.cfm
stacey
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> I'm really attracted to the idea of setting up a
> tank to showcase Zoanthids.
> Not a big tank, because I already have enough tank
> maintenance (freshwater).
> But maybe something small with Zoos, Green Star
> Polyps and maybe a
> pseudochromis fridmani.
>
> Then instead of collecting fish, I would add
> colorful zoos.
>
> I've heard they are easy (for marine, and for
> corals) and that they are
> hard, especially the blues.
>
> Any other Zoo fanatics out there?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24570 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
A group I am a member of, a salt water tank group
only:
http://www.reefaquariumguide.com
I drive them NUTS with question after question, after
question..lol naw...actually they have helped me
buches in the SW world.
stacey

--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> I'm really attracted to the idea of setting up a
> tank to showcase Zoanthids.
> Not a big tank, because I already have enough tank
> maintenance (freshwater).
> But maybe something small with Zoos, Green Star
> Polyps and maybe a
> pseudochromis fridmani.
>
> Then instead of collecting fish, I would add
> colorful zoos.
>
> I've heard they are easy (for marine, and for
> corals) and that they are
> hard, especially the blues.
>
> Any other Zoo fanatics out there?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24571 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Modifying an UG filter?
I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and a
power filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely so
no fish are going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea the
UG would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
surface of the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it
causes a sort of "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times
last night. My question is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4 inch
or so without affecting the filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles
pop underneath the surface instead of right on top. Any opinions would
be very appreciated, thank you. :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24572 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
So far I'm only breeding 5 different malawi species that are all simple
to determine even after only 2-3 weeks of life. Thank you for all the
input.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24573 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
The bubbles are only going to pop at the surface regardless of how high or
low the uplift tube happens to be. The bubbles don't pop until they reach
the surface. What you could do is add a screen or something to the top of
the uplift tube to make the bubbles smaller so they don't make such a loud
gurgling noise on the surface. Something that would work that you might
have around your home is the aerator screens used on your kitchen/bath
faucet spigot.

And just to be sure, are you fishless cycling using plain ammonia? Just
running the tank, without an ammonia source, will do nothing to create the
nitrogen cycle in your tank. Here's an article on "Fishless Cycling" which
explains the process,
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 12:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Modifying an UG filter?

I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and a power
filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely so no fish are
going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea the UG
would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the surface of
the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it causes a sort of
"rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times last night. My question
is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4 inch or so without affecting the
filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles pop underneath the surface instead
of right on top. Any opinions would be very appreciated, thank you. :)



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date: 11/1/2007
6:47 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24574 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Lol, I knew you would ask, Lenny! I didn't think to add until after I
posted that yes, I am indeed using plain ammonia to cycle.

Thank you so musch for the tip about using something to make smaller
bubbles. That is such a simple solution, I never would have thought
of it. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> The bubbles are only going to pop at the surface regardless of how
high or
> low the uplift tube happens to be. The bubbles don't pop until
they reach
> the surface. What you could do is add a screen or something to the
top of
> the uplift tube to make the bubbles smaller so they don't make such
a loud
> gurgling noise on the surface. Something that would work that you
might
> have around your home is the aerator screens used on your
kitchen/bath
> faucet spigot.
>
> And just to be sure, are you fishless cycling using plain ammonia?
Just
> running the tank, without an ammonia source, will do nothing to
create the
> nitrogen cycle in your tank. Here's an article on "Fishless
Cycling" which
> explains the process,
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 12:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Modifying an UG filter?
>
> I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and a
power
> filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely so no
fish are
> going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
> level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea
the UG
> would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
surface of
> the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it causes a
sort of
> "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times last night. My
question
> is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4 inch or so without
affecting the
> filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles pop underneath the
surface instead
> of right on top. Any opinions would be very appreciated, thank
you. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date:
11/1/2007
> 6:47 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24575 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
The rattling sound you here may be the sound of the loose carbon
granuals as each large bubble "blurps" its way through them, disturbing
them each time. I would not have recommended the use of an undergravel
filter, but if that is your preference I would not want to disuade you
from using it, now that you have it set up. You don't really need the
carbon in the inserts or the carbon inserts themselves if that piece is
an integral item. If the insert can be opened (and many of them can
be), I would either add more carbon to restrict its movement or remove
it entirely. Noting you have a power filter, I might assume that you
also have carbon in that unit, although again, it is not really
necessary to have it. There is a controversy as to how long carbon is
effective for, after which time it is said to start releasing those
undesireable elements that it has been picking up. I won't get into
that, although these discussions can be found in the archives for you
to judge. Its more frequent use is mainly just for removing unneeded
medications. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@...>
wrote:
>
> I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and a
> power filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely
so
> no fish are going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
> level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea the
> UG would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
> surface of the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it
> causes a sort of "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times
> last night. My question is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4
inch
> or so without affecting the filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles
> pop underneath the surface instead of right on top. Any opinions
would
> be very appreciated, thank you. :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24576 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
You're quite welcome. glad we could be of help. Please note though,
that 5 different species in one tank is more than enough to have them
crossbreed when the opportunity presents itself. In general however,
crossbreeding will only occur if the opposite sex of any one species in
the tank is not present, but can also occur when that opposite sex is
not ready or available for spawning, i.e., if a male of a certain
species is not dominant (and generally there are only a few dominant
males in the tank, depending upon its size), that female may spawn with
a dominant male of a different species. Likewise, if the female(s) of
the same species of the dominant male is unavailable (either absent,
not yet ripe or possibly traumatized by the male and in hiding which
can sometimes happen for various reasons), that male will breed with a
willing female of a different species.

The resulting progeny of some of these crosses may not be as easy to
determine sometimes just by physical appearance. They may resemble the
male from which they were bred for instance, but may be carrying the
other species' genes as recessive, not immediately seen but showing up
in future generations. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> So far I'm only breeding 5 different malawi species that are all
simple
> to determine even after only 2-3 weeks of life. Thank you for all
the
> input.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24577 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Long Term Plan Marine Tank
No this is long term. Like this time next year maybe. I just set up a Tang
tank, so that will keep me busy for a while.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 10:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Long Term Plan Marine Tank



Hey Donna, Do you already have the tank set up and
running? I am buying my first coral at the end of this
month.
Stacey
--- Donna Ransome <djransome@optonline <mailto:djransome%40optonline.net>
.net> wrote:

> I'm really attracted to the idea of setting up a
> tank to showcase Zoanthids.
> Not a big tank, because I already have enough tank
> maintenance (freshwater).
> But maybe something small with Zoos, Green Star
> Polyps and maybe a
> pseudochromis fridmani.
>
> Then instead of collecting fish, I would add
> colorful zoos.
>
> I've heard they are easy (for marine, and for
> corals) and that they are
> hard, especially the blues.
>
> Any other Zoo fanatics out there?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24578 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Even experts cannot reliably identify hybrids without dissection. It has
been said that hybrid fry can look exactly like one or the other parent, or
a cross between the two.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 6:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fish Breeding



You're quite welcome. glad we could be of help. Please note though,
that 5 different species in one tank is more than enough to have them
crossbreed when the opportunity presents itself. In general however,
crossbreeding will only occur if the opposite sex of any one species in
the tank is not present, but can also occur when that opposite sex is
not ready or available for spawning, i.e., if a male of a certain
species is not dominant (and generally there are only a few dominant
males in the tank, depending upon its size), that female may spawn with
a dominant male of a different species. Likewise, if the female(s) of
the same species of the dominant male is unavailable (either absent,
not yet ripe or possibly traumatized by the male and in hiding which
can sometimes happen for various reasons), that male will breed with a
willing female of a different species.

The resulting progeny of some of these crosses may not be as easy to
determine sometimes just by physical appearance. They may resemble the
male from which they were bred for instance, but may be carrying the
other species' genes as recessive, not immediately seen but showing up
in future generations. Ray

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> So far I'm only breeding 5 different malawi species that are all
simple
> to determine even after only 2-3 weeks of life. Thank you for all
the
> input.
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24579 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
I did think of that too, Raymond. The inserts can be opened, and I
thought of removing the carbon, but I figured I would let the carbon
live out its usefulness. (I don't like carbon because it clogs way
too easily.) I put some filter floss behind the inserts, and that
seems to have dispersed the bubbles somewhat and perhaps I will be
able to sleep tonight. :)

As far as choosing an undergravel, since I am still very new to the
hobby, I want to experience as many different components and systems
as I can. (Not on the same fish, and over several years, of course!)

Anyway, thanks for your imput, Raymond. I now feel I can make an
informed decision as to how to remedy too much noise from this filter.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> The rattling sound you here may be the sound of the loose carbon
> granuals as each large bubble "blurps" its way through them,
disturbing
> them each time. I would not have recommended the use of an
undergravel
> filter, but if that is your preference I would not want to disuade
you
> from using it, now that you have it set up. You don't really need
the
> carbon in the inserts or the carbon inserts themselves if that
piece is
> an integral item. If the insert can be opened (and many of them
can
> be), I would either add more carbon to restrict its movement or
remove
> it entirely. Noting you have a power filter, I might assume that
you
> also have carbon in that unit, although again, it is not really
> necessary to have it. There is a controversy as to how long carbon
is
> effective for, after which time it is said to start releasing those
> undesireable elements that it has been picking up. I won't get
into
> that, although these discussions can be found in the archives for
you
> to judge. Its more frequent use is mainly just for removing
unneeded
> medications. Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Noah Burge" <noahburge2b@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and
a
> > power filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle
completely
> so
> > no fish are going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike
and
> > level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea
the
> > UG would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
> > surface of the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it
> > causes a sort of "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4
times
> > last night. My question is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4
> inch
> > or so without affecting the filtration efficiecy? Just so the
bubbles
> > pop underneath the surface instead of right on top. Any opinions
> would
> > be very appreciated, thank you. :)
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24580 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Shipping Fish online
Breeder again, I have a group of Melanochromis Johannii ready for sale,
actually viewed breeding, can someone give me a crash course on
shipping fish without DOA's. By the way Aquabid is great I've already
ordered some fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24581 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/2/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Noah,

Check around for airstones that will release a fine mist and try those. Also, the carbon inserts are pretty much useless, so just remove them and don't bother to replace them.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 3:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Modifying an UG filter?

Lol, I knew you would ask, Lenny! I didn't think to add until after I
posted that yes, I am indeed using plain ammonia to cycle.

Thank you so musch for the tip about using something to make smaller
bubbles. That is such a simple solution, I never would have thought
of it. :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> The bubbles are only going to pop at the surface regardless of how
high or
> low the uplift tube happens to be. The bubbles don't pop until
they reach
> the surface. What you could do is add a screen or something to the
top of
> the uplift tube to make the bubbles smaller so they don't make such
a loud
> gurgling noise on the surface. Something that would work that you
might
> have around your home is the aerator screens used on your
kitchen/bath
> faucet spigot.
>
> And just to be sure, are you fishless cycling using plain ammonia?
Just
> running the tank, without an ammonia source, will do nothing to
create the
> nitrogen cycle in your tank. Here's an article on "Fishless
Cycling" which
> explains the process,
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 12:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Modifying an UG filter?
>
> I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and a
power
> filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely so no
fish are
> going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
> level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea
the UG
> would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
surface of
> the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it causes a
sort of
> "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times last night. My
question
> is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4 inch or so without
affecting the
> filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles pop underneath the
surface instead
> of right on top. Any opinions would be very appreciated, thank
you. :)
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date:
11/1/2007
> 6:47 PM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24582 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
*"It has been said that hybrid fry can look exactly like one or the other
parent, or
a cross between the two"*

I have an example of this in my own tanks. I have four Peppered Cory that
are constantly laying eggs. Of the fry that have hatched half look like the
Peppered Cory and half look like the c aeneus Corys. It doesn't matter to
me since I am not breeding for profit but a buyer might care about the
parentage.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24583 From: Noah Burge Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Modifying an UG filter?
Thanks, Steve. Egad, it never occoured to me that the gravel itself
is the filter! Inserts aren't needed at all. (yes, I feel dumb) :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Noah,
>
> Check around for airstones that will release a fine mist and try
those. Also, the carbon inserts are pretty much useless, so just
remove them and don't bother to replace them.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 3:58 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Modifying an UG filter?
>
> Lol, I knew you would ask, Lenny! I didn't think to add until after
I
> posted that yes, I am indeed using plain ammonia to cycle.
>
> Thank you so musch for the tip about using something to make
smaller
> bubbles. That is such a simple solution, I never would have thought
> of it. :)
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > The bubbles are only going to pop at the surface regardless of
how
> high or
> > low the uplift tube happens to be. The bubbles don't pop until
> they reach
> > the surface. What you could do is add a screen or something to
the
> top of
> > the uplift tube to make the bubbles smaller so they don't make
such
> a loud
> > gurgling noise on the surface. Something that would work that
you
> might
> > have around your home is the aerator screens used on your
> kitchen/bath
> > faucet spigot.
> >
> > And just to be sure, are you fishless cycling using plain
ammonia?
> Just
> > running the tank, without an ammonia source, will do nothing to
> create the
> > nitrogen cycle in your tank. Here's an article on "Fishless
> Cycling" which
> > explains the process,
> > http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Noah Burge
> > Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 12:29 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Modifying an UG filter?
> >
> > I just re-set up my 10 G tank yesterday, with an undergravel and
a
> power
> > filter. (don't worry, I am waiting for it to cycle completely so
no
> fish are
> > going in until ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all spike and
> > level) I LOVE everything about this set up except: I had no idea
> the UG
> > would be so loud! It's just the bubbles popping exactly at the
> surface of
> > the water as it comes out of the carbon inserts, so it causes a
> sort of
> > "rattling" bubble sound. It woke me up 3 or 4 times last night.
My
> question
> > is, can I cut the uplift tubes down a 1/4 inch or so without
> affecting the
> > filtration efficiecy? Just so the bubbles pop underneath the
> surface instead
> > of right on top. Any opinions would be very appreciated, thank
> you. :)
> >
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.18/1104 - Release Date:
> 11/1/2007
> > 6:47 PM
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><
((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º
((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24584 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/3/2007
Subject: Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and bath use ok for aqua...
I checked with hubby about the plants (he bought them) - he says it's
an Amazon sword plant; also in that aquarium is Java moss and Anacharis.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> If it's a lucky bamboo plant (which is not actually a bamboo), then the
> leaves should definitely NOT be under water, in fact, only the
bottom couple
> of inches of the stalk should be under water. You need to find out what
> kind of plant it is. Many stores sell bog plants as aquarium plants and
> they will die prematurely and foul the water. Take a pic of the
plant and
> post it in an online photo album and give us the link so someone can
> identify it for you.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
> Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 5:29 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Fluorescent light made for kitchen and
bath use
> ok for aqua...
>
> I have a plant in the aquarium - I think it's a bamboo - it has long,
> sword-like leaves. So is this light bad for the plant or what?
>
> Thanks for the advice.
> Shirley
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Sean C. Figueroa"
> <scfigueroa@> wrote:
> >
> > Agreed. If you're not keeping plants or corals, just go with which
> ever light makes the fish look better. Keep up on your algae
scraping and
> the tank should stay nice and pretty. :)
> >
> > Enjoy!
> >
> > Sean
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: joesbirds@
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 2:21 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Fluorescent light made for kitchen and
> bath use ok for aqua...
> >
> >
> > It will look brighter as it is newer but what is the color of the
> bulb. the
> > F15 is the wattage and the t8 is the bulb size. Whether or not you
> need to
> > change the bulb would have to do with if you have plants. That is
> the color
> > spectrum of the output would come in.
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 10/31/2007 2:18:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> > shrlycat@ writes:
> >
> > The fluorescent light on my 10-gallon died. I couldn't get to my LFS
> > today, but had to do some grocery shopping and thought I'd check
> > there. The grocery store had one the right length and with the same
> > model # on it - F15T8 - but it was labeled for kitchen and bath. I put
> > it in and the light is obviously different (brighter)and I like it
> > better, but I realize it may not be better for the fish and may cause
> > more algae. The old one was from the LFS, and had the following on the
> > bulb: Eclipse natural daylight F15T8.
> >
> > Will the new bulb be okay or should I return it and get one from
> the LFS?
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.14/1100 - Release Date:
10/30/2007
> 6:26 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24585 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Inter breed question
Can a sword interbreed with guppy? I am looking at male sword and male guppy
and their thing is the same, same is true with the females. So I was
wondering if anyone had an experience in crossing the two and had
successfully breeding them with female guppy and male sword, or male guppy
and female sword. Please let me now.

Thanks in advance for your reply/replies.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24586 From: Cynthia Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: Lucky Bamboo Plants
intructions that come with it if u get a card says "only keep it wet
an inch or so deep" but, i seen ppl put them in their tanks.
So i too ,went out and bought some for my tanks, two of my tanks
now have two stalks in them each. one cold tank and one tropical for
about 2 months now. the roots are growing and other then that i
havent seen any changes in the plants at all no growth or the leaves
dying or anything...it looks nice and so far been an interesting
experiment.
seems to not follow the rules as far as care of the plant goes but
they keep living...

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Paula Brown" <browngip@...>
wrote:
>
> I think it was Lenny that wrote that Lucky Bamboo should only be
kept
> wet on the bottom - that the leaves should not be underwater.
Maybe I
> am just lucky (lucky - get it?<G>) but I have had about 25 Lucky
Bamboo
> plants in my 55 gallon for about three years now. The problem I
have is
> that the tops keep growing and growing thus making them too tall
for the
> hood and then they start bending to spread along the top of the
water.
> I tried cutting off the bottom of one hoping to re-root it but it
died.
>
> The weird thing is one of my staff at work has a Lucky Bamboo in a
vase
> with the leaves exposed. He has had that thing for about five
years and
> it hasn't grown any taller.
>
> Paula in Monroe, Michigan
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24587 From: Tricia Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Dojo question
Ok so this is not exactly a question, just trying to decide.
I am thinking of moving my dojo from the goldfixh tank (29 gallon) to
my livebearer tank (55 gallon) which has corries, mollies, platties,
guppies, and a couple of ghost (glass) catfish.

I was hoping to get some feed back to help me out on whether or not
this would be a good move.

Thanks

Tricia
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24588 From: Wendie Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: Dojo question
Dojo's are a cooler water species and would be better off with the gold fish rather than the guppies, etc.
Wendie

----- Original Message -----
From: Tricia
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 4:07 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Dojo question


Ok so this is not exactly a question, just trying to decide.
I am thinking of moving my dojo from the goldfixh tank (29 gallon) to
my livebearer tank (55 gallon) which has corries, mollies, platties,
guppies, and a couple of ghost (glass) catfish.

I was hoping to get some feed back to help me out on whether or not
this would be a good move.

Thanks

Tricia





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24589 From: pinkvock Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: total alkalinity and ph
Hi, I'm fairly new at keeping fish and need some education about total
alkalinity and ph. I have this little 5 test quick dip test strip
thing, it has a spot for ph and a seperate spot on it for Total
Alkalinity (KH) ppm. I find myself puzzled as to what the difference
between the two are and how they interact. I have seen the Total
Alkalinity part of the test change while the ph part is staying in the
neutral range on the test. What do I use to change the total alkalinity
(KH) without ending up in the alkaline range on the test kit? I'm a
little low on that but my ph is good. Perhaps I should be using other
means of testing these things in the water, is it that this test it a
poor indicator? Also, I read someone else's stuff regarding weekly PWC,
I started off doing that and I had a lot of fish dying, So I backed off
to every 2 to 3 weeks. It seems to work out better.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24590 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
First off, what are your levels for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH, GH
and temperature? Those are the main things you can test for and as a
beginner, you should test these weekly or if you are still in the first two
months of your tank being set up, you should be testing almost daily, mainly
to monitor the ammonia/nitrite levels so you will know when to do a PWC (25%
partial water changes) to lower those levels.

As a beginner, the first thing you should learn is that you don't want to
fool with your pH, KH or GH until you've been in the hobby much longer and
then really only for specific species that require certain water parameters
or to induce breeding. Until you have a firm grasp of all of the other
biology and chemistry components of fish keeping, you should limit yourself
to keeping fish that will do well in the type of water you have from your
source. The first thing you need to learn is the nitrogen cycle and proper
filter maintenance and cleaning so you don't put your tank into mini-cycles
each time. If you do regular weekly or bi-weekly PWC's, based on the
bioload of your tank, the water parameters will stay level enough for most
common fish.

You should also get a good master test kit to test your water parameters,
not the dip sticks which are not as consistent and are sometimes way off
because of the way they work (or rather don't work). They are OK for a
quick look at things but they should not be used for accurate monitoring of
water parameters. They are kind of like the idiot lights on your cars
dashboard, compared to gauges. The idiot lights tell you something is not
right but doesn't give you accurate enough information to know what is not
right like gauges would give you.

Go to my blog and on the right side about 1/2 way down, there is a link to
my blog called "A to Z of Fish Keeping". Click on it and at the top, there
are two links to online tutorials that you can take for free that will walk
you through all of the basic biology and chemistry information so you can at
least start to understand it better.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 12:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] total alkalinity and ph

Hi, I'm fairly new at keeping fish and need some education about total
alkalinity and ph. I have this little 5 test quick dip test strip thing, it
has a spot for ph and a seperate spot on it for Total Alkalinity (KH) ppm. I
find myself puzzled as to what the difference between the two are and how
they interact. I have seen the Total Alkalinity part of the test change
while the ph part is staying in the neutral range on the test. What do I use
to change the total alkalinity
(KH) without ending up in the alkaline range on the test kit? I'm a little
low on that but my ph is good. Perhaps I should be using other means of
testing these things in the water, is it that this test it a poor indicator?
Also, I read someone else's stuff regarding weekly PWC, I started off doing
that and I had a lot of fish dying, So I backed off to every 2 to 3 weeks.
It seems to work out better.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.20/1108 - Release Date: 11/3/2007
9:42 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24591 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
Alkalinity is a measurement of the ability of water to maintain a given
pH level, roughly. It is really a bit more complex than that. It is not
to be confused with the use of the term alkaline to mean high pH. While
the strips you are using can be quick and easy to use, you should switch
to a test kit that uses powdered reagents that have expiration dates on
them for more accurate readings. The strips are OK for quick ballpark
readings, but they simply do not have the accuracy we like to see with
the kits I mentioned.

You need to give us more information about the water changes that caused
you problems. Even daily water changes should not be a problem (and they
are definitely warranted in specific situations). I know people who do
continuous water changes, via a system they have installed, with only
positive effects on their fish. Normally, you should be doing weekly
water changes. If your tank is over stocked, or you have fish that are
sensitive to nitrates, more frequent water changes may be warranted.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] total alkalinity and ph

Hi, I'm fairly new at keeping fish and need some education about total
alkalinity and ph. I have this little 5 test quick dip test strip
thing, it has a spot for ph and a seperate spot on it for Total
Alkalinity (KH) ppm. I find myself puzzled as to what the difference
between the two are and how they interact. I have seen the Total
Alkalinity part of the test change while the ph part is staying in the
neutral range on the test. What do I use to change the total alkalinity
(KH) without ending up in the alkaline range on the test kit? I'm a
little low on that but my ph is good. Perhaps I should be using other
means of testing these things in the water, is it that this test it a
poor indicator? Also, I read someone else's stuff regarding weekly PWC,
I started off doing that and I had a lot of fish dying, So I backed off
to every 2 to 3 weeks. It seems to work out better.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24592 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/4/2007
Subject: Re: total alkalinity and ph
The difference is in hardness. They are not interelated. You can always
raise you kh by adding argonite sand to your filter. I have one tank that is
around a ph between 4 and 5. But because of the snails in the tank I have the KH
higher due to the dissolving shelves that have died in the tank.( I have many
generations in the tank of apple snails). I also have a tank of Betta
simplex that enjoy a little more hardness in their water but have a neutral ph.
You shouldn't have problems with more water changes. I try to do mine at least
once a week to once every other week. Because of a lot of my fish prefer high
acidity i start off with R.O water . which has a neutral ph and no hardness.
I know of several breeders that either have a continuous flow through their
tank or to heavy partial water changes weekly. Is the water the temp or close
or of the same make up as that of the tank . Is the water de chlorinated.
Just a few things to think about

for ph and a seperate spot on it for Total Alkalinity (KH) ppm. I
find myself puzzled as to what the difference between the two are and how
they interact




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24593 From: ipartyforfun Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 3-4 inch female
(Electric Blue) Ahli that has developed a swollen abdomen,
overnight. She was fine swimming eating yesterday and looked fine
last night (10:00 or so), I left for work early (5:00) this morning
and lights were still out so didn't notice anything and tonight her
abdomen was obviously swollen.
Its swollen very near if not right at the vent area. Not like
Malawi bloat but I guess could be. Very distended looking.
I moved her immediatly to the Q tank and when I out her in it looked
like something was coming out of the vent area, not poop, not blood,
but something, you could see it coming out and dispersing in the
water.

Since writing this and getting up several times to check on her, she
has died.

Any ideas what this could have been? All of a sudden? No one else
in tank looks odd, this is an established tank. Water perminenters
are great, ammonia at 0.

Thanks,

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24594 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
If you haven't buried her yet, you could take a scraping around the vent
opening or do a necropsy and examine the pathogen under a microscope. Other
than an actual examination, it would be tough to determine. It could be
parasitic or bacterial, either of which can cause bloating in the abdominal
area. It could have been diarrhea coming out and diluting in the water and
even that could be caused by either intestinal parasites or bacterial
issues.

You already seem to know about malawi bloat, which from all that I've read
is caused more by diet issues.

If you decide to do a necropsy (fish autopsy), here's a snip from my blog
page on disease & illness diagnosis with a few sites and articles on doing
your own necropsy.

Necropsy (Autopsy) and Anatomy Information -

http://thegab.org/Articles/GoldfishInternalAnatomy.html (GoldLenny)

http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6126&highlight (GoldLenny)

http://www.koivetforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18794&page=1 (GoldLenny)

http://myfwc.com/Fishing/Fishes/anatomy.html (GoldLenny)

Anatomy, Physiology & Cell Biology 100 - (A very comprehensive college level
online guide):
http://trc.ucdavis.edu/mjguinan/apc100/modules/index.html (GoldLenny)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 3-4 inch female (Electric Blue)
Ahli that has developed a swollen abdomen, overnight. She was fine swimming
eating yesterday and looked fine last night (10:00 or so), I left for work
early (5:00) this morning and lights were still out so didn't notice
anything and tonight her abdomen was obviously swollen.
Its swollen very near if not right at the vent area. Not like Malawi bloat
but I guess could be. Very distended looking.
I moved her immediatly to the Q tank and when I out her in it looked like
something was coming out of the vent area, not poop, not blood, but
something, you could see it coming out and dispersing in the water.

Since writing this and getting up several times to check on her, she has
died.

Any ideas what this could have been? All of a sudden? No one else in tank
looks odd, this is an established tank. Water perminenters are great,
ammonia at 0.

Thanks,

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1111 - Release Date: 11/5/2007
4:36 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24595 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Thanks Lenny. I've already put her in the freezer until the hubby gets
home, we don't have a microscope and there are NO fishy vets around here.
I'm very bothered by this, she was my largest ahli female.

Thanks,

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

If you haven't buried her yet, you could take a scraping around the vent
opening or do a necropsy and examine the pathogen under a microscope. Other
than an actual examination, it would be tough to determine. It could be
parasitic or bacterial, either of which can cause bloating in the abdominal
area. It could have been diarrhea coming out and diluting in the water and
even that could be caused by either intestinal parasites or bacterial
issues.

You already seem to know about malawi bloat, which from all that I've read
is caused more by diet issues.

If you decide to do a necropsy (fish autopsy), here's a snip from my blog
page on disease & illness diagnosis with a few sites and articles on doing
your own necropsy.

Necropsy (Autopsy) and Anatomy Information -

http://thegab.org/Articles/GoldfishInternalAnatomy.html (GoldLenny)

http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6126&highlight (GoldLenny)

http://www.koivetforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18794&page=1 (GoldLenny)

http://myfwc.com/Fishing/Fishes/anatomy.html (GoldLenny)

Anatomy, Physiology & Cell Biology 100 - (A very comprehensive college level
online guide):
http://trc.ucdavis.edu/mjguinan/apc100/modules/index.html (GoldLenny)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 3-4 inch female (Electric Blue)
Ahli that has developed a swollen abdomen, overnight. She was fine swimming
eating yesterday and looked fine last night (10:00 or so), I left for work
early (5:00) this morning and lights were still out so didn't notice
anything and tonight her abdomen was obviously swollen.
Its swollen very near if not right at the vent area. Not like Malawi bloat
but I guess could be. Very distended looking.
I moved her immediatly to the Q tank and when I out her in it looked like
something was coming out of the vent area, not poop, not blood, but
something, you could see it coming out and dispersing in the water.

Since writing this and getting up several times to check on her, she has
died.

Any ideas what this could have been? All of a sudden? No one else in tank
looks odd, this is an established tank. Water perminenters are great,
ammonia at 0.

Thanks,

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1111 - Release Date: 11/5/2007
4:36 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24596 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Check with your local college/university or even public or private high
schools. Many biology departments at universities will do a necropsy as
further teachings to their students. They also would have microscopes, etc.
to examine any scrapings or tissue samples. Give them a call and see if
they can help.

Also, it would be a good idea to do a couple of 25% PWC's to help remove any
excessive pathogens that may be in the water table, if it was diarrhea.
Your other fish may have built up a resistance to this pathogen already
which is why they are not showing any problems but the higher the level they
are exposed to, the more likely they will react negatively.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 10:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Thanks Lenny. I've already put her in the freezer until the hubby gets
home, we don't have a microscope and there are NO fishy vets around here.
I'm very bothered by this, she was my largest ahli female.

Thanks,

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

If you haven't buried her yet, you could take a scraping around the vent
opening or do a necropsy and examine the pathogen under a microscope. Other
than an actual examination, it would be tough to determine. It could be
parasitic or bacterial, either of which can cause bloating in the abdominal
area. It could have been diarrhea coming out and diluting in the water and
even that could be caused by either intestinal parasites or bacterial
issues.

You already seem to know about malawi bloat, which from all that I've read
is caused more by diet issues.

If you decide to do a necropsy (fish autopsy), here's a snip from my blog
page on disease & illness diagnosis with a few sites and articles on doing
your own necropsy.

Necropsy (Autopsy) and Anatomy Information -

http://thegab.org/Articles/GoldfishInternalAnatomy.html (GoldLenny)

http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6126&highlight (GoldLenny)

http://www.koivetforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18794&page=1 (GoldLenny)

http://myfwc.com/Fishing/Fishes/anatomy.html (GoldLenny)

Anatomy, Physiology & Cell Biology 100 - (A very comprehensive college level
online guide):
http://trc.ucdavis.edu/mjguinan/apc100/modules/index.html (GoldLenny)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 3-4 inch female (Electric Blue)
Ahli that has developed a swollen abdomen, overnight. She was fine swimming
eating yesterday and looked fine last night (10:00 or so), I left for work
early (5:00) this morning and lights were still out so didn't notice
anything and tonight her abdomen was obviously swollen.
Its swollen very near if not right at the vent area. Not like Malawi bloat
but I guess could be. Very distended looking.
I moved her immediatly to the Q tank and when I out her in it looked like
something was coming out of the vent area, not poop, not blood, but
something, you could see it coming out and dispersing in the water.

Since writing this and getting up several times to check on her, she has
died.

Any ideas what this could have been? All of a sudden? No one else in tank
looks odd, this is an established tank. Water perminenters are great,
ammonia at 0.

Thanks,

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1111 - Release Date: 11/5/2007
4:36 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24599 From: Phil Date: 11/5/2007
Subject: Re: Fish Breeding
Howdy!! I have 12 tanks & over 75 fish!! I have bred all the
livebearers I've bred 5 generations of convict cichlids. And I too
have had hybrids, a fem convict bred with a Texas cichlid. I still
have 2 of them. I call them "Texas Convicts". I didn't let any out
into the public.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24600 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen
Was the discharge white a thready?

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 11:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Thanks Lenny. I've already put her in the freezer until the hubby gets
home, we don't have a microscope and there are NO fishy vets around here.
I'm very bothered by this, she was my largest ahli female.

Thanks,

Jenn

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

If you haven't buried her yet, you could take a scraping around the vent
opening or do a necropsy and examine the pathogen under a microscope. Other
than an actual examination, it would be tough to determine. It could be
parasitic or bacterial, either of which can cause bloating in the abdominal
area. It could have been diarrhea coming out and diluting in the water and
even that could be caused by either intestinal parasites or bacterial
issues.

You already seem to know about malawi bloat, which from all that I've read
is caused more by diet issues.

If you decide to do a necropsy (fish autopsy), here's a snip from my blog
page on disease & illness diagnosis with a few sites and articles on doing
your own necropsy.

Necropsy (Autopsy) and Anatomy Information -

http://thegab.org/Articles/GoldfishInternalAnatomy.html (GoldLenny)

http://thegab.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6126&highlight (GoldLenny)

http://www.koivetforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18794&page=1 (GoldLenny)

http://myfwc.com/Fishing/Fishes/anatomy.html (GoldLenny)

Anatomy, Physiology & Cell Biology 100 - (A very comprehensive college level
online guide):
http://trc.ucdavis.edu/mjguinan/apc100/modules/index.html (GoldLenny)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ipartyforfun
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 9:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Help, cichlid with swollen abdomen

Hey guys, I need some suggestions. I have a 3-4 inch female (Electric Blue)
Ahli that has developed a swollen abdomen, overnight. She was fine swimming
eating yesterday and looked fine last night (10:00 or so), I left for work
early (5:00) this morning and lights were still out so didn't notice
anything and tonight her abdomen was obviously swollen.
Its swollen very near if not right at the vent area. Not like Malawi bloat
but I guess could be. Very distended looking.
I moved her immediatly to the Q tank and when I out her in it looked like
something was coming out of the vent area, not poop, not blood, but
something, you could see it coming out and dispersing in the water.

Since writing this and getting up several times to check on her, she has
died.

Any ideas what this could have been? All of a sudden? No one else in tank
looks odd, this is an established tank. Water perminenters are great,
ammonia at 0.

Thanks,

Jenn


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.22/1111 - Release Date: 11/5/2007
4:36 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.><((((ş>.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸><((((ş> ¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸<ş((((><¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..<ş((((><ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24601 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Silly question...
I'm in the process of cycling my very first SW tank, so everything is
very new to me, so I'm sorry if
things seems to be a dumb question.

This morning as I was looking at the tank and envisioning the day it is
full of aquatic life, I noticed these
little kinda whitish translucent critters about the size of a grain of
sand, scurrying around on the glass.
What are they?

Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24602 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
How long has your tank been up?
Google up:
copepods
amphipods
mysid shrimp
I bet they are one of those. They are natural and
harmless, they are yummy for some critters.
stacey
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> I'm in the process of cycling my very first SW tank,
> so everything is
> very new to me, so I'm sorry if
> things seems to be a dumb question.
>
> This morning as I was looking at the tank and
> envisioning the day it is
> full of aquatic life, I noticed these
> little kinda whitish translucent critters about the
> size of a grain of
> sand, scurrying around on the glass.
> What are they?
>
> Jodie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24603 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
They look like they might be copepods. I'm cycling the tank for the very
1st time, and it is in it's third week.
So... If I have copepods, does that mean it's getting close? I checked
the levels on it today and they are still
a bit high, but seem to be down since the last test.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> How long has your tank been up?
> Google up:
> copepods
> amphipods
> mysid shrimp
> I bet they are one of those. They are natural and
> harmless, they are yummy for some critters.
> stacey
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > I'm in the process of cycling my very first SW tank,
> > so everything is
> > very new to me, so I'm sorry if
> > things seems to be a dumb question.
> >
> > This morning as I was looking at the tank and
> > envisioning the day it is
> > full of aquatic life, I noticed these
> > little kinda whitish translucent critters about the
> > size of a grain of
> > sand, scurrying around on the glass.
> > What are they?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24606 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Silly question...
You can never tell a time frame when it is ready.
It can test high one day and the next be within
parameters. The copes probably were in some live sand
that you bought etc...
I am cycling some more live rock right now. It was
sky high a few days ago, tested it today, and ammonia
was zero! yeah~
I bet in no time you will be ready, just be patient,
it will be worth it.
If you have anymore questions ask away, we can learn
together. I have had my tank for 8 months, so am no
expert myself, but I read and ask tons of questions.
What equipment do you have now? That was the first
thing I learned I was doing wrong and how to fix :(
you can email me private too.
sagirkennel@...
stacey

--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> They look like they might be copepods. I'm cycling
> the tank for the very
> 1st time, and it is in it's third week.
> So... If I have copepods, does that mean it's
> getting close? I checked
> the levels on it today and they are still
> a bit high, but seem to be down since the last test.
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > How long has your tank been up?
> > Google up:
> > copepods
> > amphipods
> > mysid shrimp
> > I bet they are one of those. They are natural and
> > harmless, they are yummy for some critters.
> > stacey
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> >
> > > I'm in the process of cycling my very first SW
> tank,
> > > so everything is
> > > very new to me, so I'm sorry if
> > > things seems to be a dumb question.
> > >
> > > This morning as I was looking at the tank and
> > > envisioning the day it is
> > > full of aquatic life, I noticed these
> > > little kinda whitish translucent critters about
> the
> > > size of a grain of
> > > sand, scurrying around on the glass.
> > > What are they?
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24608 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Re: Happy 5 Year Anniversary to the #1 Yahoo Fish Group!
Sorry about the long "Message History" section,

it looked right (as seen on the Groups Home Page) when I clicked
preview before sending the post,

it was the first (and last) time I used the

"New! Compose your message with Rich-Text Editor (Beta)."

I shoulda known Beta (better)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24609 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/6/2007
Subject: Happy 5 Year Anniversary to the #1 Yahoo Fish Group! (take 2)
Hi Everybody,

Thats right, this Group has been growing for 5 Years now!


Group Information

Members: 1679

Category: Fish

Founded: Nov 4, 2002

Language: English


Humble beginnings and a slow grow ~ the messages didn't really get
going till about 4 years ago ~ (see ~ Message History ~ on Group Home
page below messages). And with time there comes many changes and
growing-pains (i.e. spammers) along the way. It has all been a great
learning experience.

The Group name was changed from ~"FreshwaterTropicalFishAquarium" to
"AquaticLife" about 2 Years ago.

A great way to learn about the members of the group is the Group
Polls, the most recent poll was about a year ago (Created on Dec 13,
2006) ~

http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls

~ Please take a few minutes and participate in all of the polls,
thank you.


There is a MySpace Profile and a MySpace Group for AquaticLife ~

Profile URL: http://www.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup

Group URL: http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife


There has been over 5,000 Visitors to the Yahoo Group Home Page and/or
MySpace pages marked on the World Visitor Map in less than one year.

If you have not seen the Map on the Home Page, Stop by and have
yourself added to the map automatically.


There are now 9 Moderators for the Group, listed here by screen name
in alphabetical order:

Aaron

Amalthea

Deenerz

Harry

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny

Nimish

Raymond

Steve Szabo

Sunny


If you yourself would like to be a moderator or would like to
nominate a group member to be a moderator, please send a message to:

AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com


On to recent events,
I apologize for the spam that was sent by the Group Calendar. The
Calender entries and those who posted them have been removed. This is
the first time I can recall seeing spammers take advantage of the
Calendar in such a manner.

If you see any more spam, please let the moderators know by sending a
message to the List Owner email address ~

AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com

~ this will go to all the Moderators at the same time without being
posted to the entire Group (where it may not be seen mixed in with
all the other messages). The contact info is also available at the
bottom of the groups home page ~


Group Email Addresses

Post message: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com

List owner: AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com


In an effort to prevent any more spam, I have changed the Groups
Settings as seen below.

Group Settings: Web Tools;

Files / Photos: Limited (members can download files; moderators can
upload/modify/download files) You approve all photos

Links: Limited (members can view links; moderators can
create/modify/delete links)

Database: Limited (members can view data; moderators can
create/modify/delete tables)

Polls: Limited (members can vote in polls; moderators can
create/modify/vote in polls)

Members: Moderators only (moderators can view profiles/change
settings)

Calendar: Limited (members can view events; moderators can
create/modify/delete events)



~ If you have any questions, concerns, suggestion, comments, etc..
regarding these changes, please contact the Moderators directly.

AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com


Thank you all for making this a great group to be a part of.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24610 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: Goldfish and platies?
Would two or three platies do okay with a large common goldfish (about
4" long) and a smaller fantail? If so, would gender matter? (I think
the goldies are female.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24611 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish and platies?
I don't think so on a permanent basis. Platies are tropical fish and
goldfish are cool water fish. Goldfish do best in water 68F - 76F whereas
platies do best in water 78F - 82F.

Further, you probably shouldn't keep the common and fancy goldfish together
either although some people have written that it works for them. The fancy
has a much harder time competing for food with its much faster cousin.
Also, if the fancy happens to be a female and the common a male, if breeding
conditions start up, the common will harass the fancy to death since the
fancy won't be able to get away.

Last but not least, hopefully you've read enough posts to know that you will
need a very BIG tank for the common goldfish... at least 100G and 6' long
but they really should be in a pond.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 7:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish and platies?

Would two or three platies do okay with a large common goldfish (about 4"
long) and a smaller fantail? If so, would gender matter? (I think the
goldies are female.)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.23/1114 - Release Date: 11/6/2007
8:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24612 From: April Date: 11/7/2007
Subject: New 20 gallon
Hi everyone!!! I've been a member for a few months now but haven't
really messaged much. I had a 10 gallon tank with one green terror
chiclid. He has grown out of that tank and I'm putting him in a 20
gallon. I know that he should be in a larger tank but I have a space
issue. We are planning to buy a new house and then he can have a
larger tank. This tank is a fish only tank with only fake plants. I
have a hob filter and heater. I used water and biological media from
the 10 gallon so the tank will be ready immediately. I have just one
question. I have some brine shrimp and other food that we fed to fish
in a salt water aquarium. I'm wondering if these are okay for the
chiclid to eat? He diet is mostly shrimp pellets. What are good
nutritious food to feed him???

Thanks,
April
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24613 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/8/2007
Subject: Re: New 20 gallon
It's good that you know you have a tank size issue but for others reading
this, the fish health downside of doing this is that you can cause stunting
and health issues to the fish. Most fish should grow at their fastest rates
during their first 1-2 years. This is the most important time to have them
in a properly sized tank from the beginning so they are not stunted. Being
kept in an undersized tank causes stress, stunting and health issues.

Fish put out hormones and as these hormone levels build up, they alert the
fish to the overcrowding/undersizing issue and the fish stop growing. While
this seems like a good thing, it also causes stress issues which then turn
into health issues. One way to help combat the hormone issue is to do
frequent PWC's. If a fish is going to be kept in an undersized tank for any
length of time, having a constant turnover of fresh water would be best but
if that isn't possible, then doing daily 10-25% PWC's would at least help
keep down the hormone levels and fool the fish into thinking it's in a
bigger body of water.

Here are two comprehensive university articles on fish stress.
http://www.cs.duke.edu/~narten/faq/stress.html
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FA005

Here are a couple of profiles on the green terror and the minimum tank
recommended for a juvenile is 35G and minimum for a single adult is a 55G so
try to upgrade as soon as possible or at least do daily or frequent PWC's
until you can. These two profiles will also give you lots of ideas on diet
for your fish.

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Aequidens_rivulatus.html

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile61.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of April
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 1:12 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New 20 gallon

Hi everyone!!! I've been a member for a few months now but haven't really
messaged much. I had a 10 gallon tank with one green terror chiclid. He has
grown out of that tank and I'm putting him in a 20 gallon. I know that he
should be in a larger tank but I have a space issue. We are planning to buy
a new house and then he can have a larger tank. This tank is a fish only
tank with only fake plants. I have a hob filter and heater. I used water and
biological media from the 10 gallon so the tank will be ready immediately. I
have just one question. I have some brine shrimp and other food that we fed
to fish in a salt water aquarium. I'm wondering if these are okay for the
chiclid to eat? He diet is mostly shrimp pellets. What are good nutritious
food to feed him???

Thanks,
April


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.24/1117 - Release Date: 11/7/2007
10:52 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24614 From: Tricia Wilkerson Date: 11/8/2007
Subject: Re: Goldfish and platies?
I have believe the gold fish will eat pretty much anything that will fit in its mouth, which would eventually include the Plattys.
----- Original Message -----
From: Shirley Reichard
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 5:23 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldfish and platies?


Would two or three platies do okay with a large common goldfish (about
4" long) and a smaller fantail? If so, would gender matter? (I think
the goldies are female.)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24615 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Additives for RO water??
I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I
needed to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for
changes. Can someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the
water healthy for the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24616 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?
If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer you question, there's probably more than one product but one I
can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly adds
the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is you pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH alter
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.
There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007
7:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24617 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
My thinking as well Lenny. The only reason i could think of would be for a
saltwater set up or a african cichlid tank . If it was for a soft water tank
then I would probably add just a little tap water but like you said what are
they using the tap water for.



In a message dated 11/10/2007 9:50:21 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
GoldLenny@... writes:

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24618 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Tap water


In a message dated 11/10/2007 9:21:48 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
canineclara@... writes:

the simplest additives




************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24619 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful. Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?
If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer you question, there's probably more than one product but one I
can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly adds
the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is you pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH alter
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.
There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007
7:29 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24620 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have numbers
for pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural
biology/chemistry of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally
lower those three items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and
trace elements in the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill
off all life forms.

I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only doing 25%
PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my other
tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH, KH & GH.
Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.

Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and trace
elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start with?

What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my blog for a
recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give us the
numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
preferrably before doing a PWC.

Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the devil is
in the details!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has
several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know
what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have
algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor
tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just
reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because
that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?

If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product but one
I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly
adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH altering
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.

There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007
7:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24621 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
You said, " I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because that would be what mine is.". Ain't so. The tanks are not the same. It is probably unlikely that the tanks in the store would be the same pH as each other. Same water, true, but possibly different substrates, different aquascaping, and definitely different fish with different dietary needs.

There are a lot of things that will act to give pH different values in different tanks. You really need to get your own test kits to measure your own water values. The best kits are the ones that use powdered reagents that have expiration dates on them.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 3:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful. Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?
If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer you question, there's probably more than one product but one I
can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly adds
the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is you pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH alter
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.
There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007
7:29 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24622 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Photo Upload
Hello Everybody,

I apologize for the inconvience as we test the recent changes to the
group settings.

I have just now changed the Photo Upload setting to allow all members
to upload their images. All photos will need approval at this time.

Files / Photos: Members (upload/modify/download files)


The previous setting was only in place for a few days and apparently
did not allow members to upload images to be approved.

Group Settings

Files / Photos

Limited (members can download files; moderators can
upload/modify/download files)

You approve all photos


These are additional security precautions we as Moderators are trying
in an effort to protect the group members from potential malware,
macros, viruses, spammers, etc..



~ If you have any questions, concerns, suggestion, comments, etc..
regarding these changes, please contact the Moderators directly.

AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com


Thank you all for your understanding and patience.

p.s.

As a result of a suggestion recieved, I have created a new Photo
Album Named: *Member's Aquatic Life
Description: Members FISH labeled & organized by Type: Marine,
Brackish or F.W. - then Species: Cichlid, Livebearer, Betta, Koi, etc.

"an open folder for member's fish with several subfolders by type--
LiveBearers, African Cichlids..and so on--where members could upload
labeled photos of their fish. This would make it easier for people to
find photos of fish that they are interested in or thinking about
buying."


It is the first Photo Album when viewed as Thumbnails


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, AquaticLife™
<aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Everybody,
>
> Thats right, this Group has been growing for 5 Years now!
>
>
> Group Information
>
> Members: 1679
>
> Category: Fish
>
> Founded: Nov 4, 2002
>
> Language: English
>
>
> Humble beginnings and a slow grow ~ the messages didn't really get
> going till about 4 years ago ~ (see ~ Message History ~ on Group
Home
> page below messages). And with time there comes many changes and
> growing-pains (i.e. spammers) along the way. It has all been a
great
> learning experience.
>
> The Group name was changed from ~"FreshwaterTropicalFishAquarium" to
> "AquaticLife" about 2 Years ago.
>
> A great way to learn about the members of the group is the Group
> Polls, the most recent poll was about a year ago (Created on Dec
13,
> 2006) ~
>
> http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/AquaticLife/polls
>
> ~ Please take a few minutes and participate in all of the polls,
> thank you.
>
>
> There is a MySpace Profile and a MySpace Group for AquaticLife ~
>
> Profile URL: http://www.myspace.com/aquaticlifegroup
>
> Group URL: http://groups.myspace.com/AquaticLife
>
>
> There has been over 5,000 Visitors to the Yahoo Group Home Page
and/or
> MySpace pages marked on the World Visitor Map in less than one year.
>
> If you have not seen the Map on the Home Page, Stop by and have
> yourself added to the map automatically.
>
>
> There are now 9 Moderators for the Group, listed here by screen
name
> in alphabetical order:
>
> Aaron
>
> Amalthea
>
> Deenerz
>
> Harry
>
> Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
>
> Nimish
>
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>
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>
> Sunny
>
>
> If you yourself would like to be a moderator or would like to
> nominate a group member to be a moderator, please send a message to:
>
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>
>
> On to recent events,
> I apologize for the spam that was sent by the Group Calendar. The
> Calender entries and those who posted them have been removed. This
is
> the first time I can recall seeing spammers take advantage of the
> Calendar in such a manner.
>
> If you see any more spam, please let the moderators know by sending
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> message to the List Owner email address ~
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>
> ~ this will go to all the Moderators at the same time without being
> posted to the entire Group (where it may not be seen mixed in with
> all the other messages). The contact info is also available at the
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> Group Email Addresses
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> Post message: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
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>
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> In an effort to prevent any more spam, I have changed the Groups
> Settings as seen below.
>
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>
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> upload/modify/download files) You approve all photos
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>
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> create/modify/vote in polls)
>
> Members: Moderators only (moderators can view profiles/change
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>
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> create/modify/delete events)
>
>
>
> ~ If you have any questions, concerns, suggestion, comments, etc..
> regarding these changes, please contact the Moderators directly.
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> AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> Thank you all for making this a great group to be a part of.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24623 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO water isn't necessary I will just use tap water then.
My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater Extract, so your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I will have to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up on the glass so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's fine, but I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't have to clean their glass.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have numbers
for pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural
biology/chemistry of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally
lower those three items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and
trace elements in the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill
off all life forms.

I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only doing 25%
PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my other
tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH, KH & GH.
Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.

Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and trace
elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start with?

What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my blog for a
recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give us the
numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
preferrably before doing a PWC.

Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the devil is
in the details!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has
several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know
what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have
algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor
tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just
reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because
that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?

If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product but one
I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly
adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH altering
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.

There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.27/1121 - Release Date: 11/9/2007
7:29 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24624 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/10/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
I remember in an earlier post that you said something about RO water not
containing any algae spores and when you just asked about it again, I wanted
to ask a few more questions.

Is your tap water supplied by well or spring? If your tap water comes from
a standard public utility, it would be treated with either chloramine or
chlorine and any "algae spores" would be killed off. Now that doesn't mean
you won't get algae because when you treat your tap water with a basic
dechlor product that treats chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals, then any
kinds of algae spores that are every where will make it into your tank.

Now, the thing that might be happening with your tap water is you could have
a high phosphate level in your tap water and that would feed an algae
outbreak but it's also good for your plants. That is something that an RO
filter would strip out of the water.

You really need to get a good master test kit, which only costs around
$15.00 - $25.00 (API brand), and will last you a year or two, so you can
test and learn about what is actually happening with the chemistry of your
tank on a regular basis. It's much less costly than buying all kinds of
chemicals and additives and flying by the seat of your pants. It's best to
get a master test kit that uses the test tubes and reagents and you should
try to get the kit that tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH & GH.
This way you will know a lot more of what is happening to the tank prior to
a PWC and how each PWC affects the parameters.

You can call your local water utility to find out about phosphate levels or
see if their annual report is published online. Many utilities make them
available online. Some communities see fluctuations in things like nitrates
and phosphates in their water due to farm run-off during certain times of
the year, especially if the water is from a shallow well or reservoir.

Since you are getting algae, it could be from too much light, too much CO2
(do you have a CO2 injection system?) or too much nutrients
(ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/etc.) and if you were getting the algae
when using tap and not getting it with RO, then it could be a high nitrate
or phosphate level in your tap. There are still other things you can use
rather than buying expensive RO water to filter the phosphates out of your
water... IF you confirm that is the problem. Don't go buying a phosphate
removing filter additive till you are absolutely certain yours is too high
as you could do harm to your plants which also need phosphates to live.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO water isn't
necessary I will just use tap water then.
My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater Extract, so
your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I will have
to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up on the glass
so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's fine, but
I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't have to
clean their glass.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have numbers for
pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural biology/chemistry
of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally lower those three
items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and trace elements in
the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill off all life forms.

I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only doing 25%
PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my other
tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH, KH & GH.
Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.

Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and trace
elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start with?

What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my blog for a
recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give us the
numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
preferrably before doing a PWC.

Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the devil is
in the details!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has
several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know
what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have
algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor
tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just
reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because
that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?

If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product but one
I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly
adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH altering
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.

There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date: 11/10/2007
3:47 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24625 From: William Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
If you put enough healthy true aquatic plants (some plants that are
sold in lfs are not true aquatic plants and will not live very long
in an aquarium) the should out compete the algae and therefor the
algae will not become as much a problem. As lo if you have the room
there are algae eating fish and even some shrimp. Just make sure to
get one(s) that are sized to your tank and not too small to be eaten.
And another thing to consider is that not all algae eating animals
will eat every type of algae.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I remember in an earlier post that you said something about RO
water not
> containing any algae spores and when you just asked about it again,
I wanted
> to ask a few more questions.
>
> Is your tap water supplied by well or spring? If your tap water
comes from
> a standard public utility, it would be treated with either
chloramine or
> chlorine and any "algae spores" would be killed off. Now that
doesn't mean
> you won't get algae because when you treat your tap water with a
basic
> dechlor product that treats chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals,
then any
> kinds of algae spores that are every where will make it into your
tank.
>
> Now, the thing that might be happening with your tap water is you
could have
> a high phosphate level in your tap water and that would feed an
algae
> outbreak but it's also good for your plants. That is something
that an RO
> filter would strip out of the water.
>
> You really need to get a good master test kit, which only costs
around
> $15.00 - $25.00 (API brand), and will last you a year or two, so
you can
> test and learn about what is actually happening with the chemistry
of your
> tank on a regular basis. It's much less costly than buying all
kinds of
> chemicals and additives and flying by the seat of your pants. It's
best to
> get a master test kit that uses the test tubes and reagents and you
should
> try to get the kit that tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH
& GH.
> This way you will know a lot more of what is happening to the tank
prior to
> a PWC and how each PWC affects the parameters.
>
> You can call your local water utility to find out about phosphate
levels or
> see if their annual report is published online. Many utilities
make them
> available online. Some communities see fluctuations in things like
nitrates
> and phosphates in their water due to farm run-off during certain
times of
> the year, especially if the water is from a shallow well or
reservoir.
>
> Since you are getting algae, it could be from too much light, too
much CO2
> (do you have a CO2 injection system?) or too much nutrients
> (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/etc.) and if you were getting
the algae
> when using tap and not getting it with RO, then it could be a high
nitrate
> or phosphate level in your tap. There are still other things you
can use
> rather than buying expensive RO water to filter the phosphates out
of your
> water... IF you confirm that is the problem. Don't go buying a
phosphate
> removing filter additive till you are absolutely certain yours is
too high
> as you could do harm to your plants which also need phosphates to
live.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO water
isn't
> necessary I will just use tap water then.
> My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater
Extract, so
> your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I
will have
> to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
> But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up on
the glass
> so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's
fine, but
> I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't
have to
> clean their glass.
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%
40gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have
numbers for
> pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural
biology/chemistry
> of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally lower those
three
> items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and trace
elements in
> the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill off all
life forms.
>
> I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only
doing 25%
> PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my
other
> tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH,
KH & GH.
> Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.
>
> Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
> substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and
trace
> elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start
with?
>
> What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my
blog for a
> recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give
us the
> numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
> preferrably before doing a PWC.
>
> Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the
devil is
> in the details!
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He
has
> several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he
must know
> what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't
have
> algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
> My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras,
emperor
> tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily
planted.
> So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do
you just
> reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
> Extremely hard.
> I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is
because
> that would be what mine is.
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > wrote:
> Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the
overwhelming
> majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary.
Do you
> have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft
water?
>
> If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your
own RO
> filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in
the long
> run.
>
> But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product
but one
> I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which
supposedly
> adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.
>
> As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your
tank? If
> the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your
water to
> maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH
altering
> chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH
altering
> chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they
solve.
>
> There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like
certain rocks,
> crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at
prescribed
> dosages to increase KH.
>
> Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain
percentage,
> which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.
>
> Before doing any of these things, please give us more info..
especially as
> to why you are using the RO water.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for
about
> 4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I
needed
> to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes.
Can
> someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water
healthy for
> the fish?
> I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
> elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion
that
> maybe isn't right.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date:
11/10/2007
> 3:47 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24626 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Thanks for all your advice. I;ll get a kit and start working it out.


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
I remember in an earlier post that you said something about RO water not
containing any algae spores and when you just asked about it again, I wanted
to ask a few more questions.

Is your tap water supplied by well or spring? If your tap water comes from
a standard public utility, it would be treated with either chloramine or
chlorine and any "algae spores" would be killed off. Now that doesn't mean
you won't get algae because when you treat your tap water with a basic
dechlor product that treats chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals, then any
kinds of algae spores that are every where will make it into your tank.

Now, the thing that might be happening with your tap water is you could have
a high phosphate level in your tap water and that would feed an algae
outbreak but it's also good for your plants. That is something that an RO
filter would strip out of the water.

You really need to get a good master test kit, which only costs around
$15.00 - $25.00 (API brand), and will last you a year or two, so you can
test and learn about what is actually happening with the chemistry of your
tank on a regular basis. It's much less costly than buying all kinds of
chemicals and additives and flying by the seat of your pants. It's best to
get a master test kit that uses the test tubes and reagents and you should
try to get the kit that tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH & GH.
This way you will know a lot more of what is happening to the tank prior to
a PWC and how each PWC affects the parameters.

You can call your local water utility to find out about phosphate levels or
see if their annual report is published online. Many utilities make them
available online. Some communities see fluctuations in things like nitrates
and phosphates in their water due to farm run-off during certain times of
the year, especially if the water is from a shallow well or reservoir.

Since you are getting algae, it could be from too much light, too much CO2
(do you have a CO2 injection system?) or too much nutrients
(ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/etc.) and if you were getting the algae
when using tap and not getting it with RO, then it could be a high nitrate
or phosphate level in your tap. There are still other things you can use
rather than buying expensive RO water to filter the phosphates out of your
water... IF you confirm that is the problem. Don't go buying a phosphate
removing filter additive till you are absolutely certain yours is too high
as you could do harm to your plants which also need phosphates to live.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO water isn't
necessary I will just use tap water then.
My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater Extract, so
your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I will have
to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up on the glass
so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's fine, but
I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't have to
clean their glass.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have numbers for
pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural biology/chemistry
of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally lower those three
items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and trace elements in
the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill off all life forms.

I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only doing 25%
PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my other
tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH, KH & GH.
Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.

Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and trace
elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start with?

What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my blog for a
recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give us the
numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
preferrably before doing a PWC.

Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the devil is
in the details!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He has
several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he must know
what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't have
algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras, emperor
tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily planted.
So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do you just
reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
Extremely hard.
I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is because
that would be what mine is.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the overwhelming
majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary. Do you
have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft water?

If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your own RO
filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in the long
run.

But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product but one
I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which supposedly
adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.

As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your tank? If
the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your water to
maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH altering
chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH altering
chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they solve.

There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like certain rocks,
crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at prescribed
dosages to increase KH.

Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain percentage,
which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.

Before doing any of these things, please give us more info.. especially as
to why you are using the RO water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??

I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for about
4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I needed
to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes. Can
someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water healthy for
the fish?
I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion that
maybe isn't right.


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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3:47 PM




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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24627 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
i only have one plant that is not truly aquatic, but all the rest are. I have quite a few, but can probably add more. I keep hoping they will outcompete the algae one day. It's mostly on the glass, so I don't know if the shrimp could do anything about that. But I may look into them. I refuse to get a plecostamos because of their size. My little otocinclus may get a friend soon though. But I also need to start testing my water myself so I'll know if I need to do anything to it.

William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote: If you put enough healthy true aquatic plants (some plants that are
sold in lfs are not true aquatic plants and will not live very long
in an aquarium) the should out compete the algae and therefor the
algae will not become as much a problem. As lo if you have the room
there are algae eating fish and even some shrimp. Just make sure to
get one(s) that are sized to your tank and not too small to be eaten.
And another thing to consider is that not all algae eating animals
will eat every type of algae.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I remember in an earlier post that you said something about RO
water not
> containing any algae spores and when you just asked about it again,
I wanted
> to ask a few more questions.
>
> Is your tap water supplied by well or spring? If your tap water
comes from
> a standard public utility, it would be treated with either
chloramine or
> chlorine and any "algae spores" would be killed off. Now that
doesn't mean
> you won't get algae because when you treat your tap water with a
basic
> dechlor product that treats chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals,
then any
> kinds of algae spores that are every where will make it into your
tank.
>
> Now, the thing that might be happening with your tap water is you
could have
> a high phosphate level in your tap water and that would feed an
algae
> outbreak but it's also good for your plants. That is something
that an RO
> filter would strip out of the water.
>
> You really need to get a good master test kit, which only costs
around
> $15.00 - $25.00 (API brand), and will last you a year or two, so
you can
> test and learn about what is actually happening with the chemistry
of your
> tank on a regular basis. It's much less costly than buying all
kinds of
> chemicals and additives and flying by the seat of your pants. It's
best to
> get a master test kit that uses the test tubes and reagents and you
should
> try to get the kit that tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, KH
& GH.
> This way you will know a lot more of what is happening to the tank
prior to
> a PWC and how each PWC affects the parameters.
>
> You can call your local water utility to find out about phosphate
levels or
> see if their annual report is published online. Many utilities
make them
> available online. Some communities see fluctuations in things like
nitrates
> and phosphates in their water due to farm run-off during certain
times of
> the year, especially if the water is from a shallow well or
reservoir.
>
> Since you are getting algae, it could be from too much light, too
much CO2
> (do you have a CO2 injection system?) or too much nutrients
> (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/etc.) and if you were getting
the algae
> when using tap and not getting it with RO, then it could be a high
nitrate
> or phosphate level in your tap. There are still other things you
can use
> rather than buying expensive RO water to filter the phosphates out
of your
> water... IF you confirm that is the problem. Don't go buying a
phosphate
> removing filter additive till you are absolutely certain yours is
too high
> as you could do harm to your plants which also need phosphates to
live.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO water
isn't
> necessary I will just use tap water then.
> My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater
Extract, so
> your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I
will have
> to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
> But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up on
the glass
> so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's
fine, but
> I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't
have to
> clean their glass.
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%
40gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have
numbers for
> pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural
biology/chemistry
> of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally lower those
three
> items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and trace
elements in
> the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill off all
life forms.
>
> I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only
doing 25%
> PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for my
other
> tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for pH,
KH & GH.
> Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.
>
> Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
> substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals and
trace
> elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you start
with?
>
> What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my
blog for a
> recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also give
us the
> numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested it,
> preferrably before doing a PWC.
>
> Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the
devil is
> in the details!
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS. He
has
> several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought he
must know
> what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water doesn't
have
> algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
> My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras,
emperor
> tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily
planted.
> So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do
you just
> reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is awful.
> Extremely hard.
> I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water is
because
> that would be what mine is.
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > wrote:
> Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the
overwhelming
> majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even necessary.
Do you
> have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very soft
water?
>
> If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting your
own RO
> filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more in
the long
> run.
>
> But to answer your question, there's probably more than one product
but one
> I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which
supposedly
> adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.
>
> As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your
tank? If
> the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your
water to
> maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any pH
altering
> chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH
altering
> chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they
solve.
>
> There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like
certain rocks,
> crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at
prescribed
> dosages to increase KH.
>
> Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain
percentage,
> which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.
>
> Before doing any of these things, please give us more info..
especially as
> to why you are using the RO water.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
>
> I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for
about
> 4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that I
needed
> to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for changes.
Can
> someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water
healthy for
> the fish?
> I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for trace
> elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons opinion
that
> maybe isn't right.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date:
11/10/2007
> 3:47 PM
>






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24628 From: William Date: 11/11/2007
Subject: Re: Additives for RO water??
Bushymouth plecos and clown plecos do not get to be larger than about
5 inches (for the larger species and there are many species). I have
albino bushymouth plecos in my tanks and they are doing a good job of
keeping the algae in check. One tank that had gotten out of hand
(very few plants in there because of cichlids in the tank) had the
brown algae on the glass and I could not remove it even with the
large magnet algae scraper. I put a few albino bushymouth pleco in
that tank and they are eating the algae on the glass for me.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Lisa Rambo <canineclara@...>
wrote:
>
> i only have one plant that is not truly aquatic, but all the rest
are. I have quite a few, but can probably add more. I keep hoping
they will outcompete the algae one day. It's mostly on the glass, so
I don't know if the shrimp could do anything about that. But I may
look into them. I refuse to get a plecostamos because of their size.
My little otocinclus may get a friend soon though. But I also need to
start testing my water myself so I'll know if I need to do anything
to it.
>
> William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote: If you put enough
healthy true aquatic plants (some plants that are
> sold in lfs are not true aquatic plants and will not live very long
> in an aquarium) the should out compete the algae and therefor the
> algae will not become as much a problem. As lo if you have the room
> there are algae eating fish and even some shrimp. Just make sure to
> get one(s) that are sized to your tank and not too small to be
eaten.
> And another thing to consider is that not all algae eating animals
> will eat every type of algae.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I remember in an earlier post that you said something about RO
> water not
> > containing any algae spores and when you just asked about it
again,
> I wanted
> > to ask a few more questions.
> >
> > Is your tap water supplied by well or spring? If your tap water
> comes from
> > a standard public utility, it would be treated with either
> chloramine or
> > chlorine and any "algae spores" would be killed off. Now that
> doesn't mean
> > you won't get algae because when you treat your tap water with a
> basic
> > dechlor product that treats chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals,
> then any
> > kinds of algae spores that are every where will make it into your
> tank.
> >
> > Now, the thing that might be happening with your tap water is you
> could have
> > a high phosphate level in your tap water and that would feed an
> algae
> > outbreak but it's also good for your plants. That is something
> that an RO
> > filter would strip out of the water.
> >
> > You really need to get a good master test kit, which only costs
> around
> > $15.00 - $25.00 (API brand), and will last you a year or two, so
> you can
> > test and learn about what is actually happening with the
chemistry
> of your
> > tank on a regular basis. It's much less costly than buying all
> kinds of
> > chemicals and additives and flying by the seat of your pants.
It's
> best to
> > get a master test kit that uses the test tubes and reagents and
you
> should
> > try to get the kit that tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
KH
> & GH.
> > This way you will know a lot more of what is happening to the
tank
> prior to
> > a PWC and how each PWC affects the parameters.
> >
> > You can call your local water utility to find out about phosphate
> levels or
> > see if their annual report is published online. Many utilities
> make them
> > available online. Some communities see fluctuations in things
like
> nitrates
> > and phosphates in their water due to farm run-off during certain
> times of
> > the year, especially if the water is from a shallow well or
> reservoir.
> >
> > Since you are getting algae, it could be from too much light, too
> much CO2
> > (do you have a CO2 injection system?) or too much nutrients
> > (ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/phosphate/etc.) and if you were getting
> the algae
> > when using tap and not getting it with RO, then it could be a
high
> nitrate
> > or phosphate level in your tap. There are still other things you
> can use
> > rather than buying expensive RO water to filter the phosphates
out
> of your
> > water... IF you confirm that is the problem. Don't go buying a
> phosphate
> > removing filter additive till you are absolutely certain yours is
> too high
> > as you could do harm to your plants which also need phosphates to
> live.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> > Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:04 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
> >
> > Yes I guess your right about the fish acclimating. If the RO
water
> isn't
> > necessary I will just use tap water then.
> > My substrate is the Eco-complete that is packaged in Blackwater
> Extract, so
> > your probably right about it releasing into the existing water. I
> will have
> > to get more info on the parameters. I'll check out your blog.
> > But do you have any suggestions for algae control? It builds up
on
> the glass
> > so quickly. If that is just going to happen no matter what that's
> fine, but
> > I wonder if some people get their algae under control and don't
> have to
> > clean their glass.
> >
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@ <mailto:GoldLenny%
> 40gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > Extremely hard isn't the best answer you could give. Do you have
> numbers for
> > pH, GH & KH? I have very hard water also but the natural
> biology/chemistry
> > of a closed system (fish tank & filters) will naturally lower
those
> three
> > items as the fish/plants/microbes utilize the minerals and trace
> elements in
> > the water. By only using RO water, you will slowly kill off all
> life forms.
> >
> > I simply use my regular tap water which is also hard and by only
> doing 25%
> > PWC's on a regular basis (weekly for my goldfish, bi-weekly for
my
> other
> > tanks), it keeps the tank water at a nice consistent level for
pH,
> KH & GH.
> > Most fish easily acclimate to a wide variety of water parameters.
> >
> > Since you say you have a heavily planted tank, I'm assuming with a
> > substrate, then the substrate may be slowly releasing minerals
and
> trace
> > elements back into the system. What kind of substrate did you
start
> with?
> >
> > What are the baseline water parameters of your tap water? See my
> blog for a
> > recent article I did on establishing your baseline. Then also
give
> us the
> > numbers for your tank for the past few times that you've tested
it,
> > preferrably before doing a PWC.
> >
> > Give us more info with details please. You know the saying... the
> devil is
> > in the details!
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ]
> > On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> > Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 2:23 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
> >
> > Well, as usual I was following the advice of the guy at the LFS.
He
> has
> > several show tanks in the store that are gorgeous, so I thought
he
> must know
> > what he is talking about. I like the fact that the RO water
doesn't
> have
> > algae spores. It just seems cleaner than tap water.
> > My tank is 44gal with dwarf rainbows, boseman rainbows, rasboras,
> emperor
> > tetras and some cory cats and an otocinclus. Also, it is heavily
> planted.
> > So what percentage of tap with RO water would work for PWC. Or do
> you just
> > reccomend tap water. By the way. Our tap water in Florida is
awful.
> > Extremely hard.
> > I will have to find out from the LFS what the Ph of their water
is
> because
> > that would be what mine is.
> >
> > "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > > wrote:
> > Remind us again why you are only using RO water? For the
> overwhelming
> > majority of FW fish keepers, using RO water is not even
necessary.
> Do you
> > have a SW tank or a certain species of fish that requires very
soft
> water?
> >
> > If you are going to continue this, you should consider getting
your
> own RO
> > filter system since buying it at retail will cost you much more
in
> the long
> > run.
> >
> > But to answer your question, there's probably more than one
product
> but one
> > I can think of off the top of my head is Kent's RO Right which
> supposedly
> > adds the needed trace elements back to RO water.
> >
> > As far as pH, what is your pH, GH & KH of your RO water and your
> tank? If
> > the pH is where you want it and you have sufficient KH in your
> water to
> > maintain the pH between PWC's, then there's no reason to add any
pH
> altering
> > chemicals... IMO, there's almost never a reason to add any pH
> altering
> > chemicals to any tank. They usually cause more problems than they
> solve.
> >
> > There are natural ways to buffer your water using things like
> certain rocks,
> > crushed coral, crushed seashells, etc., or adding baking soda at
> prescribed
> > dosages to increase KH.
> >
> > Or simply mixing your tap water with the RO water at a certain
> percentage,
> > which will add the trace elements and buffers at no cost to you.
> >
> > Before doing any of these things, please give us more info..
> especially as
> > to why you are using the RO water.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > ] On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
> > Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 11:21 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Additives for RO water??
> >
> > I have been doing my water changes with RO water form the LFS for
> about
> > 4 months now. On just my last trip there a empoloyee told me that
I
> needed
> > to add stuff to my water if I was just using RO water for
changes.
> Can
> > someone tell me the simplest additives to use to make the water
> healthy for
> > the fish?
> > I believe I need to add a Ph adjuster and maybe something for
trace
> > elements. Is that right? Or did I just get another persons
opinion
> that
> > maybe isn't right.
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.28/1123 - Release Date:
> 11/10/2007
> > 3:47 PM
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be who you are and say what you feel,
> because those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind.
> -Dr. Seuss
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24629 From: Kristen Date: 11/12/2007
Subject: Actinic Lights?
Hi group, I just purchased a Marineland T-5 lighting fixture for my 75
gallon freshwater aquarium. It came with 2-54 watt daylight bulbs and
2-54 watt actinic bulbs. Some of what I have read online has said
plants can benefit from actinic bulbs and some acts otherwise. I was
gonna plant low tech plants with no CO2 injection, at least not to
start out with. I have eco-complete substrate and was going to
supplement the plants with liquid fertilizers. Would it be in my
plant's best interest to replace the two actinic bulbs with 2 more
daylight/plant bulbs, or do you think my plants with have sufficient
lighting with the bulbs I already have?
Thanks in advance,
Kristen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24630 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/12/2007
Subject: Re: Actinic Lights?
I upgraded wattage and at the same time to half daylight and half actinic
and find I have too much algae. I will be switching the bulb to all
daylight ASAP. For what it’s worth.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kristen
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 11:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Actinic Lights?



Hi group, I just purchased a Marineland T-5 lighting fixture for my 75
gallon freshwater aquarium. It came with 2-54 watt daylight bulbs and
2-54 watt actinic bulbs. Some of what I have read online has said
plants can benefit from actinic bulbs and some acts otherwise. I was
gonna plant low tech plants with no CO2 injection, at least not to
start out with. I have eco-complete substrate and was going to
supplement the plants with liquid fertilizers. Would it be in my
plant's best interest to replace the two actinic bulbs with 2 more
daylight/plant bulbs, or do you think my plants with have sufficient
lighting with the bulbs I already have?
Thanks in advance,
Kristen





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24631 From: coryswalter Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Betta Behavior Question
I have a beautiful male betta I moved from a 10 gal to 30 gal tank.
In the 10 gal tank he was very visible, coming to the sides of the
tank to greet me, etc. Since being in the 30 gal tank, he has become
much more introverted and now stays hidden either in an
aquarium "house" or inside a large dragon that has a bubble stone in
it's mouth. He is with the same fish in the 30 as in the 10. My
question is, is the size of the new tank making him insecure and would
he be happier back in the 10 gal or even in a 1.5 gal betta tank? I
know there has been a lot of betta discussions, but this behavior is
bothering me....thanks.....Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24632 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Betta has become
> much more introverted and now stays hidden

Cory,

Maybe he just needs time to adjust. I moved my betta from a 2.5 to a
10 and then a 55 gal tank. Once acclamated he strutted around the 55
like he was the king of the county. Which he was.

Deb
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24633 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/13/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
How about filtration/circulation? Betta's do not like a lot of water
movement so he could be hiding to stay out of circulation. Try moving your
filter to one end so the water is moving less at the other end to see if he
comes into that area. What kind of filter system did you have on the 10G
and where was the discharge located and what do you now have on the 30G and
where is the discharge located? When I had my Betta in a 10G, I moved the
HOB filter to one corner and Mr. Betta roamed the rest of the tank but
stayed away from the area where the water discharge came back into the tank.

If you don't have plants, add a few broad leaf silk plants. Betta's love to
lounge around on the leaves like a hammock.

Some Betta's do seem to like solitary tanks where others get along OK in a
community tank. Don't move him back to the 1.5G but the 10G is a nice home
for a Betta and another tank mate. See my blog for a comprehensive 10G
stocking list for suitable tank mates for the Betta in a 10G.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Behavior Question

I have a beautiful male betta I moved from a 10 gal to 30 gal tank.
In the 10 gal tank he was very visible, coming to the sides of the tank to
greet me, etc. Since being in the 30 gal tank, he has become much more
introverted and now stays hidden either in an aquarium "house" or inside a
large dragon that has a bubble stone in it's mouth. He is with the same fish
in the 30 as in the 10. My question is, is the size of the new tank making
him insecure and would he be happier back in the 10 gal or even in a 1.5 gal
betta tank? I know there has been a lot of betta discussions, but this
behavior is bothering me....thanks.....Cory



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1127 - Release Date: 11/12/2007
9:19 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24634 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Betta's all have unique personalities. I have a male that loves to play in
the water coming out of the filter in his 5 gal home and another in the same
type of tank that I had to turn the filter down on. I have several Betta's
in my 55 gal community tank that seem happy and 1 that I moved out and has
changed into a beautiful, happy boy. I have Betta's that avoid caves and
ones who love them.

My suggestion is to give him a week or so to try to adjust to the bigger
home, but, if you don't think he seems happy then move him to a smaller
home - and NOT the 1.5 gal tank.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "coryswalter" <coryswalter@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 11:06 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Behavior Question


I have a beautiful male betta I moved from a 10 gal to 30 gal tank.
In the 10 gal tank he was very visible, coming to the sides of the
tank to greet me, etc. Since being in the 30 gal tank, he has become
much more introverted and now stays hidden either in an
aquarium "house" or inside a large dragon that has a bubble stone in
it's mouth. He is with the same fish in the 30 as in the 10. My
question is, is the size of the new tank making him insecure and would
he be happier back in the 10 gal or even in a 1.5 gal betta tank? I
know there has been a lot of betta discussions, but this behavior is
bothering me....thanks.....Cory
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24635 From: Cory Walter Date: 11/14/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Behavior Question
Lenny, I have an outside filter on both tanks and they are both on the right rear corner of the tank......there was an extra airstone in the back bottom of the 10 gallon and the extra air source on the 30 gal is the dragon sitting in the middle of the tank......inside that dragon is where the betta likes to stay......the bubbles come out high up in the tank so the whole lower 3/4 is calm......


Cory S. Walter

Have a wonderful, blessed day!



----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 12:49:13 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Betta Behavior Question

How about filtration/circulation? Betta's do not like a lot of water
movement so he could be hiding to stay out of circulation. Try moving your
filter to one end so the water is moving less at the other end to see if he
comes into that area. What kind of filter system did you have on the 10G
and where was the discharge located and what do you now have on the 30G and
where is the discharge located? When I had my Betta in a 10G, I moved the
HOB filter to one corner and Mr. Betta roamed the rest of the tank but
stayed away from the area where the water discharge came back into the tank.

If you don't have plants, add a few broad leaf silk plants. Betta's love to
lounge around on the leaves like a hammock.

Some Betta's do seem to like solitary tanks where others get along OK in a
community tank. Don't move him back to the 1.5G but the 10G is a nice home
for a Betta and another tank mate. See my blog for a comprehensive 10G
stocking list for suitable tank mates for the Betta in a 10G.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of coryswalter
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 10:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Behavior Question

I have a beautiful male betta I moved from a 10 gal to 30 gal tank.
In the 10 gal tank he was very visible, coming to the sides of the tank to
greet me, etc. Since being in the 30 gal tank, he has become much more
introverted and now stays hidden either in an aquarium "house" or inside a
large dragon that has a bubble stone in it's mouth. He is with the same fish
in the 30 as in the 10. My question is, is the size of the new tank making
him insecure and would he be happier back in the 10 gal or even in a 1.5 gal
betta tank? I know there has been a lot of betta discussions, but this
behavior is bothering me....thanks.....Cory



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.30/1127 - Release Date: 11/12/2007
9:19 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24636 From: Paula Brown Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Betta Question
Donna wrote: "I have several Betta's in my 55 gal community tank that
seem happy...."

You don't mean that you have several male Betta's in the same tank do
you?

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24637 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Question
I bought 13 'young females from the same spawn' on Aquabid this past Spring.
I put 9 of them in my 55 gal tank. 5 or 6 of the females turned out to be
males. I've only taken 1 of the males out because of a problem; now I see
only occasional chasing, no more than any of the other fish. Yes, it's odd,
but, I've decided that fish really do have personalities that are as unique
as people. Would I put males in again on purpose? No, because I've read from
others that generally it won't work. I would do the large number of females.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paula Brown" <browngip@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 8:34 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Question


Donna wrote: "I have several Betta's in my 55 gal community tank that
seem happy...."

You don't mean that you have several male Betta's in the same tank do
you?

Paula



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24638 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: Betta Question
Hi Paula,

I'm not sure if Donna has several males or not but it is done on a regular
basis, especially in a large enough tank where each male can have it's own
territory. It's also done with smaller tanks when the males are from the
same hatch and are not separated as fry so they grow up with each other.
I'm sure there are also cases where completely separated males are put
together and do not kill each other. It seems fish do not always read the
same books and websites that we do.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 7:35 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Betta Question

Donna wrote: "I have several Betta's in my 55 gal community tank that seem
happy...."

You don't mean that you have several male Betta's in the same tank do you?

Paula


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.32/1131 - Release Date: 11/14/2007
4:54 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24639 From: Terri A. Randall Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Setting up new tank
Hi everyone. could use some advice and opinions here please. I'm
getting a new 210 gallon Marine tank, fish and live rock only. I'm
narrowing down my options.

Which is preferable? A regular tank or a drilled tank with sump, etc?
As for the lighting, I'm considering going with the sort of *newer* LED
lights. Thoughts?

As for the live raock.... should I get cured rock, uncured and cure it
myself in a separtae tank, or just put it in the new tank and let it
cycle in for a month?

any help and or advice is more than welcome. It's beena few years since
I've been in the hobby and there have been changes. Also, my largest
tank before was a 55 gallon. I really want to do this right and would
appreciate any help you could give.

Thanks in advance
Terri Randall
Wyoming
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24640 From: nice6669 Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: walleye
any 1 know any thing about keeping them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24641 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/15/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
Since they are considered a game fish, check with you rlocal fish and
game department for the legality of keeping such a fish. More than
likely, it will be illegal.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of nice6669
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 7:55 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] walleye

any 1 know any thing about keeping them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24642 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
If you haven't seen it already, I would recommend that you look at the
book North American Native Fishes For The Home Aquarium by David
Schleser. While it does not mention walleye, it does give a lot of
great tips for keeping coldwater fish that you may find useful.


Tom

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nice6669" <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
> any 1 know any thing about keeping them
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24643 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
If the game fish, Walleye, is legal to be kept within the State in
question, only a pond environment should be considered unless the
owner has an ultra-large aquarium. These fish average between 18"
and 24," often getting to 28" or more; the world's record Walleye is
well over 20 pounds, and over 36". Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "mosquitokr2002"
<mosquitokr2002@...> wrote:
>
> If you haven't seen it already, I would recommend that you look at
the
> book North American Native Fishes For The Home Aquarium by David
> Schleser. While it does not mention walleye, it does give a lot of
> great tips for keeping coldwater fish that you may find useful.
>
>
> Tom
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nice6669" <nice6669@> wrote:
> >
> > any 1 know any thing about keeping them
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24644 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: Re: walleye
That should fit in a 10G tank... right? ;-)

Ooops... maybe I should have added a couple of more zero's... 1,000G!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Raymond Wetzel
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 9:36 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: walleye

If the game fish, Walleye, is legal to be kept within the State in question,
only a pond environment should be considered unless the owner has an
ultra-large aquarium. These fish average between 18"
and 24," often getting to 28" or more; the world's record Walleye is well
over 20 pounds, and over 36". Ray

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"mosquitokr2002"
<mosquitokr2002@...> wrote:
>
> If you haven't seen it already, I would recommend that you look at
the
> book North American Native Fishes For The Home Aquarium by David
> Schleser. While it does not mention walleye, it does give a lot of
> great tips for keeping coldwater fish that you may find useful.
>
>
> Tom
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
, "nice6669" <nice6669@> wrote:
> >
> > any 1 know any thing about keeping them
> >
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.33/1133 - Release Date: 11/15/2007
8:57 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24645 From: benchu81 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24646 From: benchu81 Date: 11/16/2007
Subject: my new tank
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24647 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: my new tank
Wow, fabulous!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of benchu81
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2007 9:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] my new tank



[IMG]http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg[/IMG]
http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg
http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg
http://i200.
<http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg>
photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg

Please give me commet





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24648 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: my new tank
Very nice. All those pretty corals must have cost you a pretty penny. :)
Kate

benchu81 <benchu81@...> wrote: [IMG]http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg%5b/IMG]
[IMG]http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg%5b/IMG]
[IMG]http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg%5b/IMG]
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01434.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01430.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa205/waibin81/DSC01397.jpg

Please give me commet






---------------------------------
Be a better pen pal. Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24649 From: Terri A. Randall Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Final price quote on my 210....
YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have been
down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable and
if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want to
be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
Here's the quote....



QUOTE

210 GALLON



TANK:
DRILLED
$1,099.95

(OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90

STAND:

MISSION (CHERRY) $ 749.95

TOPS:


GLASS
$ 99.95

HOOD (MISSION) $ 499.95

LIGHTING:

CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90

FILTRATION:

SUMP (DRILLED) $ 649.95

SUBSTRATE:

SAND (4BAGS)(29.95EA) $ 119.80

HEATER 250 WATT (59.99EA) $ 119.98

THERMOMETER
$ 9.95
HYDROMETER
$ 12.95

PRIME
$ 19.95

STABILITY
$ 19.95 QUICK DIP COMPLETE
$ 24.95

MAG-FLOAT (LARGE) $ 39.95

SALT BUCKET (59.99EA) $ 199.98

LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00



TOTAL:
$4,417.03

PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-

NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45


Terri Randall
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24650 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
They say to plan on minimum $50 per gallon for marine tanks. That’s about
what I paid for my Mission stand a year ago. I’m not so marine oriented so
I can’t say about prices and necessity of all the rest, but nothing jumps
out at me.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Terri A. Randall
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 1:13 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Final price quote on my 210....



YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have been
down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable and
if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want to
be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
Here's the quote....

QUOTE

210 GALLON

TANK:
DRILLED
$1,099.95

(OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90

STAND:

MISSION (CHERRY) $ 749.95

TOPS:

GLASS
$ 99.95

HOOD (MISSION) $ 499.95

LIGHTING:

CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90

FILTRATION:

SUMP (DRILLED) $ 649.95

SUBSTRATE:

SAND (4BAGS)(29.95EA) $ 119.80

HEATER 250 WATT (59.99EA) $ 119.98

THERMOMETER
$ 9.95
HYDROMETER
$ 12.95

PRIME
$ 19.95

STABILITY
$ 19.95 QUICK DIP COMPLETE
$ 24.95

MAG-FLOAT (LARGE) $ 39.95

SALT BUCKET (59.99EA) $ 199.98

LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00

TOTAL:
$4,417.03

PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-

NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45

Terri Randall







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24651 From: Carmen H Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
I'm not familiar with retails on most of these items but I did just
buy 2x250 watt heaters and I paid quite a bit less than $59.99 each
($41.99 each, on sale from $48.99). I also bought some all-in-one
test strips for $17.99. That's all in Canada, and generally the
prices up here are higher than in the US. I'd definitely do some
comparison shopping before committing. 15% off highish pricing isn't
much of a deal...

Carmen

On Nov 17, 2007 1:12 PM, Terri A. Randall <randall@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
> dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have been
> down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable and
> if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want to
> be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
> Here's the quote....
>
> QUOTE
>
> 210 GALLON
>
> TANK:
> DRILLED
> $1,099.95
>
> (OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90
>
> STAND:
>
> MISSION (CHERRY) $ 749.95
>
> TOPS:
>
> GLASS
> $ 99.95
>
> HOOD (MISSION) $ 499.95
>
> LIGHTING:
>
> CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90
>
> FILTRATION:
>
> SUMP (DRILLED) $ 649.95
>
> SUBSTRATE:
>
> SAND (4BAGS)(29.95EA) $ 119.80
>
> HEATER 250 WATT (59.99EA) $ 119.98
>
> THERMOMETER
> $ 9.95
> HYDROMETER
> $ 12.95
>
> PRIME
> $ 19.95
>
> STABILITY
> $ 19.95 QUICK DIP COMPLETE
> $ 24.95
>
> MAG-FLOAT (LARGE) $ 39.95
>
> SALT BUCKET (59.99EA) $ 199.98
>
> LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00
>
> TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
> Terri Randall
>
>
>
> Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24652 From: hendralim27 Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: caridina sp orange (mandarine)
this time is season for caridina sp orange (mandarine).
stock is available now.
if anyone interest it, pls contact me.
thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24653 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Have you considered looking at getting someones used system. You could
save a great deal of money that way. I would look on craigslist for a
few weeks first. Even if you have to drive to another town and spend the
night to pick it up you could save so much on the aquarium that it would
still be worth it. Just a thought.

Rhonda



Terri A. Randall wrote:
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
>
> TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
> Terri Randall
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24654 From: Kate Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: 5 gallon planted project
So I'm starting a new 5 gallon(aprox) project and just wanted to pick
your brains for suggestions. The tank is 17" tall x 10" wide x 8"
deep. I grabbed a 16"x7"x3" piece of rock with lots of pockets and
holes to anchor plants on. It's covered in lichens at the moment, but
hopefully I can scrub them off well enough to be submerged.

I had planned on using Ecocomplete again, but was tempted to try
something else; maybe one of the ADA substrates. I've thought about
using a little Oolitic sand for decorative purposes as well.

I figured I'd use one of the 18 watt coralife minis again for lighting
as the perimeter of the tank is too small to accommodate much.

As for plants, Maybe Lobelia Cardinalis and microsword on the bottom
and Anubias along the rock. Boring for now, but I'm not yet sure what
else to add. A few of us are doing a group order from
http://www.aquabotanic.com/ soon so I can possibly grab any other
plants you might suggest from there.

I don't know what I'm going to do for filtration yet. Likely some type
of canister filter. I want to do CO2 and will probably go DIY instead
of Hydor this time.

Anyway, any thoughts on any of this?
Thank you for taking the time to read!
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24655 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: CLEARLY LED'S
Hi Teri,

That is awesome that you found the LED lighting system. I have tried
in the past but did not know the brand name. Not sure what your
dealer is reffering to in the price quote - CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA)


I googled "CLEARLY LED'S" and got the website - www.clearlyleds.com


http://www.clearlyleds.com/Panel_4_Description.htm

LED Panel # 4: Panel contains a total of 204 LEDs and draws just over
10 Watts with all LEDs on. Package Price for Panel #4 = $85.00


http://www.clearlyleds.com/Panel_3_Description.htm

LED Panel # 3: Panel contains a total of 204 LEDs and draws just over
10 Watts with all LEDs on. Package Price for Panel #3 = $85.00


Not sure how many you will need for a 210 gallon reef aquarium.

They might know, here is the contact email: info@...

Let us know how you like em after you got them installed, I am
wanting to replace my CF system with the LEDs.


p.s ~ not sure about the dealers math ~

TOTAL: $4,417.03

PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-

NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45

I see a discrepency of $ 101.98 (Total should be $3,754.47)


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Terri A. Randall" <randall@...>
wrote:
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
> dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have
been
> down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable
and
> if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want
to
> be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
> Here's the quote....
>
>
>
> QUOTE
>
> 210 GALLON
>
>
>
> TANK:
>
DRILLED
> $1,099.95
>
> (OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90
...
>
> LIGHTING:
>
> CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90
>
...
>
> LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00
>
>
>
>
TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
>
> Terri Randall
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24656 From: bmp Date: 11/17/2007
Subject: Introducing myself (new member)
Good evening,

My name is Beverly and I live in Texas, USA. I joined
this group today. Perhaps you 'know' me from the other
aquarium-related yahoogroups I am on.

My tanks are pretty modest compared to what many
people have, I'm sure. I have a 10 gallon quarantine
tank which has minimal plants and decoration. It is
currently home to some miscellaneous guppy fry which
were given to me at the petshop (couldn't turn them
down) and many small snails of the usual kinds.

Then I have a 29 gallon planted tank with 5 boseman's
rainbowfish, plus a clean-up crew of corys and otos.
More on these guys in a moment.

Finally, I have a 37 gallon community tank, also
planted. It contains small, peaceful tetras and
rasboras, plus a female platy and two of her (growing)
youngsters and a clean-up crew similar to that of the
29 gallon. Oh and there is one very large golden
mystery/apple snail which my child wanted and I
couldn't say no. The snail is surprisingly active.

Well, I don't know if I just wore him down or what,
but my husband tonight agreed to let me get a 65-68
gallon tank for the rainbows. I have been feeling I
should add 2 more females to the group, to help
balance the sexes better, but realized that my current
tank is not large enough. Even though I have wanted a
larger tank for a year, I am a little shocked and
anxious now that it seems to be ready to happen. I
expect to plant it too but haven't worked out details.
I am just rather nervous about messing it up, just as
I was nervous when I first bought my rainbows, afraid
I would kill them. After all, something so beautiful
should be difficult to keep, right?

Well that is a bit about me. I have other interests
and responsibilities too, haha.

See you later,
Beverly


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24657 From: William Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: 5 gallon planted project
I would suggest Flourish Excel instead of the Co2 DIY. If you have
enough plats in that tank (and there will not be much room after
putting the rock in) then you should not need a filter (the plants
will be dong that. Make sure to measure how much water you put in the
tank (after the rock is in) so you know how much water is actually
in the tank. You might try some small anubias (they can grow in low2
light areas). You DO NOT MENTION ABUT ANY FISH AND I suggest that
you d o not put any in or at least very small fish and then some
that will not spawn in there or it will become overpopulated very
fast.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> So I'm starting a new 5 gallon(aprox) project and just wanted to
pick
> your brains for suggestions. The tank is 17" tall x 10" wide x 8"
> deep. I grabbed a 16"x7"x3" piece of rock with lots of pockets and
> holes to anchor plants on. It's covered in lichens at the moment,
but
> hopefully I can scrub them off well enough to be submerged.
>
> I had planned on using Ecocomplete again, but was tempted to try
> something else; maybe one of the ADA substrates. I've thought about
> using a little Oolitic sand for decorative purposes as well.
>
> I figured I'd use one of the 18 watt coralife minis again for
lighting
> as the perimeter of the tank is too small to accommodate much.
>
> As for plants, Maybe Lobelia Cardinalis and microsword on the bottom
> and Anubias along the rock. Boring for now, but I'm not yet sure
what
> else to add. A few of us are doing a group order from
> http://www.aquabotanic.com/ soon so I can possibly grab any other
> plants you might suggest from there.
>
> I don't know what I'm going to do for filtration yet. Likely some
type
> of canister filter. I want to do CO2 and will probably go DIY
instead
> of Hydor this time.
>
> Anyway, any thoughts on any of this?
> Thank you for taking the time to read!
> Kate
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24658 From: Terri Randall Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: CLEARLY LED'S
Thank you Aaron! These are the three panel. They were going to give me a
price break on them. I believe they told me we'd need 3, three panel to
light the system. But they were going to lay it out and see how it looked
first to be sure how many we needed.
Appreciate the math as well. I didn't even pick up on that.
Thank you~


Terri Randall
Creature Comforts Pet Care
Sheridan, Wyoming 82801
www.GotPaws.net
APS List Owner

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of aaron102272
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 7:51 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] CLEARLY LED'S

Hi Teri,

That is awesome that you found the LED lighting system. I have tried in the
past but did not know the brand name. Not sure what your dealer is reffering
to in the price quote - CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA)


I googled "CLEARLY LED'S" and got the website - www.clearlyleds.com


http://www.clearlyleds.com/Panel_4_Description.htm

LED Panel # 4: Panel contains a total of 204 LEDs and draws just over 10
Watts with all LEDs on. Package Price for Panel #4 = $85.00


http://www.clearlyleds.com/Panel_3_Description.htm

LED Panel # 3: Panel contains a total of 204 LEDs and draws just over
10 Watts with all LEDs on. Package Price for Panel #3 = $85.00


Not sure how many you will need for a 210 gallon reef aquarium.

They might know, here is the contact email: info@...

Let us know how you like em after you got them installed, I am
wanting to replace my CF system with the LEDs.


p.s ~ not sure about the dealers math ~

TOTAL: $4,417.03

PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-

NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45

I see a discrepency of $ 101.98 (Total should be $3,754.47)


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Terri A. Randall" <randall@...>
wrote:
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
> dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have
been
> down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable
and
> if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want
to
> be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
> Here's the quote....
>
>
>
> QUOTE
>
> 210 GALLON
>
>
>
> TANK:
>
DRILLED
> $1,099.95
>
> (OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90
..
>
> LIGHTING:
>
> CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90
>
..
>
> LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00
>
>
>
>
TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
>
> Terri Randall
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24659 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: discus
how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light on
because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24660 From: bardia_salemi Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joeykimmons" <joeykimmons@...>
wrote:
>
> how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light on
> because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
>
Hi
It's better you make them familiar with low lights first. When you
wants to turn on the light , they will be shocked, it's better you
prepare a dimer for your lights.
the most important thing is using aquarium plants to give them this
chance to hide and play with each other.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24661 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
In a message dated 11/18/2007 10:40:13 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
joeykimmons@... writes:

how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light on
because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24662 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
We need to know more about your tank setup to help you adequately.
However, it appears that your discus does not have enough cover to feel
safe when the light is on, that is why he is swimming around a lot when
it is off and he only has the ambient light coming into the tank.
Another possible reason is that your light is just too bright.

Tell us mor about your tank and what is in it, so we have a better
understanding.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of joeykimmons
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 1:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] discus

how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light on
because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24663 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Try this again.

Is this a solitary discus?

Discus should be in a group until mature enough to spawn then separated into
a pair unless the tank is large enough to house a group.

A solo discus is probably too scared to come out. If you can add dither fish
to make it feel secure enough to come out it may help. What does your tank
have in the way of decorations or plants? If it is a bare tank the discus may
be freaked out. In the wild they are among plants and tree roots or
vegetation. Recreating that environment may make the fish more comfortable. Perhaps
some tall plants or driftwood arranged in a vertical manner like a forest may
make it more comfortable.

Mike

In a message dated 11/18/2007 10:40:13 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
joeykimmons@... writes:

how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light on
because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips







************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24664 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
i posted some pics of my discus and my tank. (under joeys tank)
is it ok that he is with a black ghost??????

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joeykimmons" <joeykimmons@...>
wrote:
>
> how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light
on
> because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24665 From: joeykimmons Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
he was in a pair til when i bought them, but one died the day after
i bought them several months ago
i posted some pics under joeys tank, is it also ok if he is with a
black ghost???

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Deenerz@... wrote:
>
>
> Try this again.
>
> Is this a solitary discus?
>
> Discus should be in a group until mature enough to spawn then
separated into
> a pair unless the tank is large enough to house a group.
>
> A solo discus is probably too scared to come out. If you can add
dither fish
> to make it feel secure enough to come out it may help. What does
your tank
> have in the way of decorations or plants? If it is a bare tank the
discus may
> be freaked out. In the wild they are among plants and tree roots
or
> vegetation. Recreating that environment may make the fish more
comfortable. Perhaps
> some tall plants or driftwood arranged in a vertical manner like
a forest may
> make it more comfortable.
>
> Mike
>
> In a message dated 11/18/2007 10:40:13 A.M. Pacific Standard
Time,
> joeykimmons@... writes:
>
> how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my
light on
> because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at
http://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24666 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/18/2007
Subject: Re: discus
Tough to say from the photos what size your tank is, but it does look a bit small for full grown discus and black ghosts. Maybe a 29 gallon?

Definitely sparse on the décor for discus. You need to get more tall plants in there, and/or driftwood that will imitate roots coming down into the tank to the substrate to give the discus a place he can call home. Once that has been done, he will take a day or two to acclimate, then start showing himself more knowing he has a place to go to if he feels the need to become invisible.



\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of joeykimmons
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 10:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: discus

i posted some pics of my discus and my tank. (under joeys tank)
is it ok that he is with a black ghost??????

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "joeykimmons" <joeykimmons@...>
wrote:
>
> how can i get my discus to swim around as much when i got my light
on
> because when its off he swims around alot anyone have any tips
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24667 From: kstringer1974 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Terri,

You're definately looking at some dealer markup on those prices. If
you're fairly handy and know how to work the plumbing and whatnot,
you can save yourself a lot of cost.

For instance, the sump they are offering seems a bit high to me. I
know you can find sumps online at thatpetplace.com, Bigalsonline.com,
or Drsfostersmith.com in the $300-400 range that I believe are
suitable for a tank of your size (210 Gallons). The LED lights are
kind of a new thing to me, but the price they are quoting you doesn't
seem at all right to light a reef tank (if it's not going to be a
reef tank, then please disregard this). The prices I looked at online
for just the lighting were in the $4,000 range so I'd be very
interested to know how they expect to properly light your tank for
$400 using that technology. Pretty much every piece of hardware you
listed has the dealer markup on it. Once place that you seem to have
a big price break is the live rock. My LFS gave me a rough estimate
of approximately $1000 in cured live rock for my 180G tank. If that's
market rate, then you are getting one heck of a break on the live
rock. Again, if you're not going for a reef tank, then you don't need
as much live rock and therefore this is a moot point. The rate on the
heaters is too high as well. You can find 250W quality heaters in the
$40.00 range easily. YOu may want to do a little online shopping and
see how the prices compare for similar items. I would also strongly
suggest buying a used tank. several of the LFS in my area (Dallas,
TX) sell used tanks for a HUGE price break. I just saw a 200+ gallon
tank with canopy and stand go for about $900.

Hope that's helpful.

Cheers,
Kevin R. Stringer


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Terri A. Randall" <randall@...>
wrote:
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
> dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have
been
> down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable
and
> if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want
to
> be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
> Here's the quote....
>
>
>
> QUOTE
>
> 210 GALLON
>
>
>
> TANK:
>
DRILLED
> $1,099.95
>
> (OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90
>
> STAND:
>
> MISSION (CHERRY) $ 749.95
>
> TOPS:
>
>
> GLASS
> $ 99.95
>
> HOOD (MISSION) $ 499.95
>
> LIGHTING:
>
> CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90
>
> FILTRATION:
>
> SUMP (DRILLED) $ 649.95
>
> SUBSTRATE:
>
> SAND (4BAGS)(29.95EA) $ 119.80
>
> HEATER 250 WATT (59.99EA) $ 119.98
>
> THERMOMETER
> $ 9.95
> HYDROMETER
> $ 12.95
>
>
PRIME
> $ 19.95
>
>
STABILITY
> $ 19.95 QUICK DIP
COMPLETE
> $ 24.95
>
> MAG-FLOAT (LARGE) $ 39.95
>
> SALT BUCKET (59.99EA) $ 199.98
>
> LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00
>
>
>
>
TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
>
> Terri Randall
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24668 From: Donna Camp Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
I knwo nothing about Marine tanks, but, I have done online
shopping/comparrison pricing.

There are some decent sales coming up for the holidays. If you decide to get
the parts separatly, check PetsMart. Many of the stores will match prices
from websites, even stores other than their own. Example - I wanted a bag of
Flourite - PetsMart in store $24.99,Big Als online $14.99. I printed the bag
from Big Als and gave it to my local PetsMart and got Big Als' price. Also
check websites for free shipping. Also if you mention to your original
quoter that others can beat their price, maybe they'll lower it just to get
your business.

Good luck with your shopping!

Donna
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24669 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: 5 gallon planted project
I do use flourish excel in my 10g, but the plants really took off when I added the CO2 system so I wanted to add one to the 5g. I have a 2.5g planted without a filter or CO2 that does just fine, but it's pretty simple, cryptocorynes, pygmy chain sword, and another little green plant that I can't remember the name of. It has tight low growing rosettes. The tank houses 1 Badis and 3 Amano Shrimp. I planned on a similar low bioload with the 5g, maybe a couple pigmy corys and cherry shrimp, but those won't come along until I'm happy with how the plants are doing quite a while down the road. I'm ordering some Anubias petite to go on the rock and will maybe stick some willow moss on the rock too. I bought some recently for the 10g and really liked it.
Kate

William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:
I would suggest Flourish Excel instead of the Co2 DIY. If you have
enough plats in that tank (and there will not be much room after
putting the rock in) then you should not need a filter (the plants
will be dong that. Make sure to measure how much water you put in the
tank (after the rock is in) so you know how much water is actually
in the tank. You might try some small anubias (they can grow in low2
light areas). You DO NOT MENTION ABUT ANY FISH AND I suggest that
you d o not put any in or at least very small fish and then some
that will not spawn in there or it will become overpopulated very
fast.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kate" <k8hardy@...> wrote:
>
> So I'm starting a new 5 gallon(aprox) project and just wanted to
pick
> your brains for suggestions. The tank is 17" tall x 10" wide x 8"
> deep. I grabbed a 16"x7"x3" piece of rock with lots of pockets and
> holes to anchor plants on. It's covered in lichens at the moment,
but
> hopefully I can scrub them off well enough to be submerged.
>
> I had planned on using Ecocomplete again, but was tempted to try
> something else; maybe one of the ADA substrates. I've thought about
> using a little Oolitic sand for decorative purposes as well.
>
> I figured I'd use one of the 18 watt coralife minis again for
lighting
> as the perimeter of the tank is too small to accommodate much.
>
> As for plants, Maybe Lobelia Cardinalis and microsword on the bottom
> and Anubias along the rock. Boring for now, but I'm not yet sure
what
> else to add. A few of us are doing a group order from
> http://www.aquabotanic.com/ soon so I can possibly grab any other
> plants you might suggest from there.
>
> I don't know what I'm going to do for filtration yet. Likely some
type
> of canister filter. I want to do CO2 and will probably go DIY
instead
> of Hydor this time.
>
> Anyway, any thoughts on any of this?
> Thank you for taking the time to read!
> Kate
>






---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24670 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Bio Wheel attachment for Cannister filters???
Hello, I have a Fluval FX5 cannister filter for a 220 gallon cichlid
community tank. Aggression occurs less often with tank stocked high,
and I like the various species and breeding possibilities. My question
is do they sell an add-on biowheel attachment to connect to my
cannister filter. The bio-rings are just not enough and are not
cutting down the Nitrite in the tank. I've had the tank for around 6
months and this is the highest the nitrite has ever been, as the stock
increases and grows and fry are re-introduced into the adult tank. If
not, do you think the 400gph H.O.T. biowheel filter will be enough to
provide more biological filtration. Thank you.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24671 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/19/2007
Subject: Re: Final price quote on my 210....
Marine is expensive. I hand built the stand to my 220 gallon fresh
tank, grand total about $300. Trim work and stain ended up costing
the most in the whole project. It's a simple design with 2x4's if
you or someone you know can build it. It's 2x4's with a nice sanded
ply or cabinet grade ply around it, any thickness will do it's not
there for structural support, the 2x4's handle that plenty. I've
never built a canopy but it cannot be that hard, if you do just buy a
canopy and build a stand be warned it's hard to match the color stain
exactly.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Terri A. Randall" <randall@...>
wrote:
>
> YIKES! I asked for a final bottom line, drop dead price from the
> dealer and this is what he sent me today. Those of you that have
been
> down this road, can you tell me if you believe this is reasonable
and
> if all this is neccessary? Want to do it right but also don't want
to
> be taken advantage of. Thanks in advance for your input.
> Here's the quote....
>
>
>
> QUOTE
>
> 210 GALLON
>
>
>
> TANK:
>
DRILLED
> $1,099.95
>
> (OVERFLOW KITS)(49.95 EA) $ 99.90
>
> STAND:
>
> MISSION (CHERRY) $ 749.95
>
> TOPS:
>
>
> GLASS
> $ 99.95
>
> HOOD (MISSION) $ 499.95
>
> LIGHTING:
>
> CLEARLY LED'S (199.95EA) $ 399.90
>
> FILTRATION:
>
> SUMP (DRILLED) $ 649.95
>
> SUBSTRATE:
>
> SAND (4BAGS)(29.95EA) $ 119.80
>
> HEATER 250 WATT (59.99EA) $ 119.98
>
> THERMOMETER
> $ 9.95
> HYDROMETER
> $ 12.95
>
>
PRIME
> $ 19.95
>
>
STABILITY
> $ 19.95 QUICK DIP
COMPLETE
> $ 24.95
>
> MAG-FLOAT (LARGE) $ 39.95
>
> SALT BUCKET (59.99EA) $ 199.98
>
> LIVE ROCK (UNCURED) (225.00EA)$ 450.00
>
>
>
>
TOTAL:
> $4,417.03
>
> PACKAGE DISCOUNT (15%) $ 662.56-
>
> NEW TOTAL: $3,856.45
>
>
> Terri Randall
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24672 From: hamrad45 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Cleaning aquarium
I just got a used aquarium that had been in use for some time (years
maybe) as a salt water aquarium. It is pretty dirty and lots of
buildup around the top and cover. I want to use it as a fresh water
aquarium.

Question: What is the best way to clean it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24673 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: African Dwarf Frog ~ Balloon like
1 of the dozen or so African Dwarf Frogs in the Planted 55 gallon is
bloated up like an overinflated ballon. Its skin is peeling (do they
shed?) but it is still swimming to the suface for air and moving
around. The others are their normal skinny selves. I just noticed this
first thing this morning before feeding. It is not from over eating,
the body is see through and I can see all the internal organs through
the skin. All the fish appear healthy, just this one frog that looks
odd.

I have uploaded 3 images into the group photo album "balloon frog"
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24674 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Plants in Malawi Tank
Which plants can survive in a Lake Malawi Cichlid tank with an 8.0 ph?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24675 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Cleaning aquarium
Tom,



Use vinegar. Let it soak, then wipe it off.

If the tank is Acrylic, DO NOT USE A RAZOR BLADE.

You can a razor with glass.

The longer you let it soak the easier it will be to remove.
You may want to lay the tank on the side you intend to work on and let it soak for a while before you start wiping it or rubbing it. 

Mike



I just got a used aquarium that had been in use for some time (years
maybe) as a salt water aquarium. It is pretty dirty and lots of
buildup around the top and cover. I want to use it as a fresh water
aquarium.

Question: What is the best way to clean it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom



-----Original Message-----
From: hamrad45 <hamrad@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 9:24 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cleaning aquarium






I just got a used aquarium that had been in use for some time (years
maybe) as a salt water aquarium. It is pretty dirty and lots of
buildup around the top and cover. I want to use it as a fresh water
aquarium.

Question: What is the best way to clean it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom





________________________________________________________________________
Email and AIM finally together. You've gotta check out free AOL Mail! - http://mail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24676 From: Carmen H Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Water parameter question/Apple snails
I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers
livebearers, young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the
apple snails, I started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks
1-2x per week to provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy
and growing like crazy!) I figured if it added a little hardness that
would be fine for the endlers. The shrimp were added later but I also
figured they'd tolerate any added hardness and the expected higher PH.
I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a
set-up with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new,
stored carefully, exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to
try and get the new tank close to it) and and was floored by the
results! The ammonia and nitrites were 0, nitrates less than 20. The
GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of concern, but the KH was almost 0 and
the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of the tap here, and most of my
tanks stay right around there. I'm running this tank with a rena
filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of driftwood
that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a measurable
difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is confusing
to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too
much to intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I
sure didn't expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...

--

Carmen
http://www.reskie.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24677 From: ljjh68 Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: African Dwarf Frog ~ Balloon like
Here's a post I found using google and Dwarf frog inflated as my
search
Bloat:
Aquatic frogs may appear fat for a number of reasons including just
eating too much or being a female with eggs but sometimes they get
bloat. Bloat is probably caused by an internal bacterial infection
which messes with frogs ability to drain excess fluids (mostly water)
from its body. So, it gets larger and larger, full of fluid.
Treatment is to use aquarium salt at about a tablespoon per 5 gallons
and to try aquarium fish antibiotics. I will add more on this topic
later. A frog with bloat will literally look like it is ready to
explode. There are two photos below under my African dwarf frogs of
one that I have with bad bloat.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "aaron102272" <aaron102272@...>
wrote:
>
> 1 of the dozen or so African Dwarf Frogs in the Planted 55 gallon
is
> bloated up like an overinflated ballon. Its skin is peeling (do
they
> shed?) but it is still swimming to the suface for air and moving
> around. The others are their normal skinny selves. I just noticed
this
> first thing this morning before feeding. It is not from over
eating,
> the body is see through and I can see all the internal organs
through
> the skin. All the fish appear healthy, just this one frog that
looks
> odd.
>
> I have uploaded 3 images into the group photo album "balloon frog"
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24678 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Cleaning aquarium
Plain white vinegar will remove the hard water build-up. If it's really
built up, soak a paper towel in the vinegar and lay the paper towel on the
build-up to let it soak for an hour or so. You might have to lay the tank
on each side to do this.

After that, a hot water and salt paste will also work as a non-detergent
cleaner to scrub anything that doesn't dissolve with the vinegar.

Hydrogen Peroxide will help disinfect and kill any bacteria in the
cracks/crevices. You may have to lay the tank on each side to let the full
strength HP soak for a little while.

The above three processes will only require basic rinsing.

If you need further cleaning, then a 10% bleach solution will further clean
and disinfect but you will have to rinse, rinse, rinse and then rinse some
more and then let it air dry for 24-48 hours to make sure any chlorine
residue evaporates.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of hamrad45
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 11:25 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cleaning aquarium

I just got a used aquarium that had been in use for some time (years
maybe) as a salt water aquarium. It is pretty dirty and lots of buildup
around the top and cover. I want to use it as a fresh water aquarium.

Question: What is the best way to clean it?

Thanks for your time,

Tom






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007
7:05 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007
7:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24679 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
First you should re-test with a good Master Test Kit that uses test tubes
and reagent chemicals to get more reliable test results. Dip stick tests
should only be used as a preliminary test... or not at all, IMO. I don't
like spending money on something that I can't have full confidence in.

If those re-test numbers come out the same, then further analysis is needed.
I did a quick Google since I was worried about the word "neutralizer" and it
seems those blocks contain something that alters the pH of the water. It
claims to neutralize acidic water (low pH) which should not result in a low
pH like you are experiencing. I would buy cuttle bone (for birds) and use
it instead of the turtle blocks. It won't dissolve as quickly so it lasts a
lot longer (only add a small piece at a time) and the snails will actually
eat right off the cuttle bone for added calcium in their diet. It won't add
any other chemicals to your water.

Your driftwood will lower the pH and soften the water so you might want to
consider removing it from a tank where you want harder water. When
driftwood is new, it's the tannins that affect the pH and hardness but as
driftwood gets older, it actually starts to slowly decay which adds to the
bioload of the tank and the decaying driftwood will lower your pH.

How often are you doing PWC's? Are you doing regular filter cleaning and
maintenance? Your fish, plants, critters, N-bacteria, etc., all use up the
minerals (KH, etc.) in the water but if you are doing weekly PWC's, you
should be OK unless your tap water has a low KH. Further, if your filter or
substrate has excessive detritus, it releases carbonic acid and put out CO2
during the decay process which will lower the pH.

Check out my blog for a recent article I did on establishing your tap water
baseline for all of your water parameters. Also read my article on filter
maintenance and cleaning.

Although you may have a 7.6 pH out the tap, you could also have a high GH
but a low KH. You may need to supplement your KH using the cuttle bone or
using good old baking soda. Before doing any of these things, you really
need to know your baseline parameters and regular testing on your tank will
let you know when things start to change before they get too far out of
whack.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 5:53 PM
To: Aquatic Life; Tropical Fish Club
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails

I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers livebearers,
young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the apple snails, I
started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks 1-2x per week to
provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy and growing like crazy!)
I figured if it added a little hardness that would be fine for the endlers.
The shrimp were added later but I also figured they'd tolerate any added
hardness and the expected higher PH.
I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a set-up
with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new, stored carefully,
exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to try and get the new tank
close to it) and and was floored by the results! The ammonia and nitrites
were 0, nitrates less than 20. The GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of
concern, but the KH was almost 0 and the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of
the tap here, and most of my tanks stay right around there. I'm running this
tank with a rena filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of
driftwood that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a
measurable difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is
confusing to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too much to
intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I sure didn't
expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...

--

Carmen
http://www.reskie.com

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007
7:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24680 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
First, ,it is quite possible to have water that is hard and acidic. It is not found often in nature, but it does occur. Your water out of the tap may have a high pH, but have you ever put some aside for 24 hours and then rechecked the pH? It is of benefit to your water people to raise the pH of the water traveling through the pipes they own to help prevent premature corrosion. There are a number of ways of doing this.

Lenny has mentioned other factors that may contribute to the situation.

I also pretty much agree with him about the test strips. They are fine for a quick, on the fly, estimation of some water quatilty parameters, but to really test the water, you need to use a kit with powdered reagents, or carefully calibrated electronic equipment. The only decision I'd make with test strips to to test the water more thoroughly.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:53 PM
To: Aquatic Life; Tropical Fish Club
Subject: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails

I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers
livebearers, young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the
apple snails, I started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks
1-2x per week to provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy
and growing like crazy!) I figured if it added a little hardness that
would be fine for the endlers. The shrimp were added later but I also
figured they'd tolerate any added hardness and the expected higher PH.
I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a
set-up with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new,
stored carefully, exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to
try and get the new tank close to it) and and was floored by the
results! The ammonia and nitrites were 0, nitrates less than 20. The
GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of concern, but the KH was almost 0 and
the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of the tap here, and most of my
tanks stay right around there. I'm running this tank with a rena
filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of driftwood
that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a measurable
difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is confusing
to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too
much to intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I
sure didn't expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...

--

Carmen
http://www.reskie.com


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24681 From: Zinfin Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
Hello everyone,

I set up a 5 gallon hospital tank for a sick fish with a sponge filter
from an established tank. I was treating with salt, increasing the
temperature about 4 degrees, and daily doses of Quick Cure. The fish
was a gourami that had a sore on its side, then became bloated and has
since passed on.

I'm figuring I shouldn't put the filter back in a tank until I have
done something to sanitize it.

What do you recommend?

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24682 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
You can rinse it out, then soak it in hot, salted, tap water, then rinse it
good again and soak it in Hydrogen Peroxide for 1/2 hour and then rinse
again and that should pretty much kill everything in the filter. Actually,
the hot salty tap water should probably kill everything but a pint of HP is
around 30 cents at Walgreens or other local chain drug stores and the
oxidizing effect of HP (H2O2) and the ease of rinsing it makes it a good
product for aquaria. It's basically water (H2O) with an extra oxygen
molecule so after it bubbles up and releases the extra O molecule, it's
almost purified water at that point so it rinses easily with water and
leaves no residue. You can actually add HP to aquariums in small doses for
various therapeutic purposes and to kill some algae without harming the
fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Zinfin
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 9:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sanitizing filter from hospital tank

Hello everyone,

I set up a 5 gallon hospital tank for a sick fish with a sponge filter from
an established tank. I was treating with salt, increasing the temperature
about 4 degrees, and daily doses of Quick Cure. The fish was a gourami that
had a sore on its side, then became bloated and has since passed on.

I'm figuring I shouldn't put the filter back in a tank until I have done
something to sanitize it.

What do you recommend?

Thanks



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.1/1140 - Release Date: 11/19/2007
7:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24683 From: Carmen H Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Thanks guys, for all the input. Guess I have to go get a new test
kit, mine is old... Are there any that are easier to read than
others? I find the colors on my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals very
difficult to accurately compare, the water never looks exactly like
the choices. That's the main reason why I went with strips this time,
easier to read...
And I'll toss the driftwood into a tank where acidity won't be a problem...
Anyhow..as far as the questions that were asked...
Yes, I have tested the water 24 hrs later...it ALWAYS reads 7.6..and
none of my other tanks move from that number...I've never paid
attention to the kh/gh enough to give numbers, but they were not on
either end of the scale, just "normal"
PWC's are every 2 weeks, about 25% while vacuuming the gravel
Opposite weeks I take out approx 10% water and rinse the filter media
in it. I don't get a lot of gunk out of this tank, it is very
lightly stocked

On Nov 20, 2007 10:17 PM, Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> First, ,it is quite possible to have water that is hard and acidic. It is
> not found often in nature, but it does occur. Your water out of the tap may
> have a high pH, but have you ever put some aside for 24 hours and then
> rechecked the pH? It is of benefit to your water people to raise the pH of
> the water traveling through the pipes they own to help prevent premature
> corrosion. There are a number of ways of doing this.
>
> Lenny has mentioned other factors that may contribute to the situation.
>
> I also pretty much agree with him about the test strips. They are fine for
> a quick, on the fly, estimation of some water quatilty parameters, but to
> really test the water, you need to use a kit with powdered reagents, or
> carefully calibrated electronic equipment. The only decision I'd make with
> test strips to to test the water more thoroughly.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Carmen H
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:53 PM
> To: Aquatic Life; Tropical Fish Club
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails
>
>
> I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers
> livebearers, young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the
> apple snails, I started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks
> 1-2x per week to provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy
> and growing like crazy!) I figured if it added a little hardness that
> would be fine for the endlers. The shrimp were added later but I also
> figured they'd tolerate any added hardness and the expected higher PH.
> I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a
> set-up with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new,
> stored carefully, exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to
> try and get the new tank close to it) and and was floored by the
> results! The ammonia and nitrites were 0, nitrates less than 20. The
> GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of concern, but the KH was almost 0 and
> the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of the tap here, and most of my
> tanks stay right around there. I'm running this tank with a rena
> filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of driftwood
> that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a measurable
> difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is confusing
> to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
> Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too
> much to intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I
> sure didn't expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...
>
> --
>
> Carmen
> http://www.reskie.com
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
>
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>



--

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24684 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/20/2007
Subject: Re: Sanitizing filter from hospital tank
In addition to what Lenny wrote you can also take the sponge after it has
been thoroughly rinsed out and put it in the microwave for a minute at a time.
Take caution not to burn yourself after it has been steaming in the microwave.

Mike

In a message dated 11/20/2007 7:21:58 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
zinfin@... writes:

set up a 5 gallon hospital tank for a sick fish with a sponge filter
from an established tank. I was treating with salt, increasing the
temperature about 4 degrees, and daily doses of Quick Cure. The fish
was a gourami that had a sore on its side, then became bloated and has
since passed on.

I'm figuring I shouldn't put the filter back in a tank until I have
done something to sanitize it.

What do you recommend?

Thanks






**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24685 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Plants in Malawi Tank
Anubias and Java Fern.

-Mike

In a message dated 11/20/2007 12:57:21 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
deberhardt85@... writes:

Which plants can survive in a Lake Malawi Cichlid tank with an 8.0 ph?






**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24686 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: ADF w/ Bloat? ~ Adding Salt
Thank you, I found that article and it said to use 1 tablespoon salt
per 5 gallons. I do that and see what happens.

Anybody else had this happen? How long does it take for the salt to
work?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "ljjh68" <ljjh1@...> wrote:
>
> Here's a post I found using google and Dwarf frog inflated as my
> search
> Bloat: .... sometimes they get
> bloat. Bloat is probably caused by an internal bacterial infection
> which messes with frogs ability to drain excess fluids (mostly
water)
> from its body. So, it gets larger and larger, full of fluid.
> Treatment is to use aquarium salt at about a tablespoon per 5
gallons ... A frog with bloat will literally look like it is ready to
> explode. ...
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24687 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
Look for the Aqua-Tru kits by Kordon. I believe they are the best
designed kits out here

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 11:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails

Thanks guys, for all the input. Guess I have to go get a new test
kit, mine is old... Are there any that are easier to read than
others? I find the colors on my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals very
difficult to accurately compare, the water never looks exactly like
the choices. That's the main reason why I went with strips this time,
easier to read...
And I'll toss the driftwood into a tank where acidity won't be a
problem...
Anyhow..as far as the questions that were asked...
Yes, I have tested the water 24 hrs later...it ALWAYS reads 7.6..and
none of my other tanks move from that number...I've never paid
attention to the kh/gh enough to give numbers, but they were not on
either end of the scale, just "normal"
PWC's are every 2 weeks, about 25% while vacuuming the gravel
Opposite weeks I take out approx 10% water and rinse the filter media
in it. I don't get a lot of gunk out of this tank, it is very
lightly stocked

On Nov 20, 2007 10:17 PM, Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> First, ,it is quite possible to have water that is hard and acidic. It
is
> not found often in nature, but it does occur. Your water out of the
tap may
> have a high pH, but have you ever put some aside for 24 hours and then
> rechecked the pH? It is of benefit to your water people to raise the
pH of
> the water traveling through the pipes they own to help prevent
premature
> corrosion. There are a number of ways of doing this.
>
> Lenny has mentioned other factors that may contribute to the
situation.
>
> I also pretty much agree with him about the test strips. They are
fine for
> a quick, on the fly, estimation of some water quatilty parameters, but
to
> really test the water, you need to use a kit with powdered reagents,
or
> carefully calibrated electronic equipment. The only decision I'd make
with
> test strips to to test the water more thoroughly.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Carmen H
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:53 PM
> To: Aquatic Life; Tropical Fish Club
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails
>
>
> I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers
> livebearers, young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the
> apple snails, I started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks
> 1-2x per week to provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy
> and growing like crazy!) I figured if it added a little hardness that
> would be fine for the endlers. The shrimp were added later but I also
> figured they'd tolerate any added hardness and the expected higher
PH.
> I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a
> set-up with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new,
> stored carefully, exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to
> try and get the new tank close to it) and and was floored by the
> results! The ammonia and nitrites were 0, nitrates less than 20. The
> GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of concern, but the KH was almost 0
and
> the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of the tap here, and most of my
> tanks stay right around there. I'm running this tank with a rena
> filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of driftwood
> that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a measurable
> difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is confusing
> to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
> Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too
> much to intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I
> sure didn't expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...
>
> --
>
> Carmen
> http://www.reskie.com
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24688 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Water parameter question/Apple snails
It's likely the driftwood, since you are doing regular PWC's, gravel
vacuuming and filter cleaning. I use the API Master Test Kit but I also
have a Tetra-Laborette test kit and it works well also, but also uses the
liquid reagent. I think Steve recommends another brand that uses dry
chemical packs.

Here's a site that explains how to add Baking Soda to raise and stabilize
the KH of your tank. http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/calKH.asp

And since you mentioned that ph, GH & KH still give you trouble
understanding them, here's an article I have in my favorites folder which
gives a good explanation on that triangle.
http://www.chelonia.org/Articles/waterchemistry.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails

Thanks guys, for all the input. Guess I have to go get a new test kit, mine
is old... Are there any that are easier to read than others? I find the
colors on my Aquarium Pharmaceuticals very difficult to accurately compare,
the water never looks exactly like the choices. That's the main reason why I
went with strips this time, easier to read...
And I'll toss the driftwood into a tank where acidity won't be a problem...
Anyhow..as far as the questions that were asked...
Yes, I have tested the water 24 hrs later...it ALWAYS reads 7.6..and none of
my other tanks move from that number...I've never paid attention to the
kh/gh enough to give numbers, but they were not on either end of the scale,
just "normal"
PWC's are every 2 weeks, about 25% while vacuuming the gravel Opposite weeks
I take out approx 10% water and rinse the filter media in it. I don't get a
lot of gunk out of this tank, it is very lightly stocked

On Nov 20, 2007 10:17 PM, Steve Szabo <steve@...
<mailto:steve%40familyszabo.com> > wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> First, ,it is quite possible to have water that is hard and acidic. It
> is not found often in nature, but it does occur. Your water out of the
> tap may have a high pH, but have you ever put some aside for 24 hours
> and then rechecked the pH? It is of benefit to your water people to
> raise the pH of the water traveling through the pipes they own to help
> prevent premature corrosion. There are a number of ways of doing this.
>
> Lenny has mentioned other factors that may contribute to the situation.
>
> I also pretty much agree with him about the test strips. They are fine
> for a quick, on the fly, estimation of some water quatilty parameters,
> but to really test the water, you need to use a kit with powdered
> reagents, or carefully calibrated electronic equipment. The only
> decision I'd make with test strips to to test the water more thoroughly.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Carmen H
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2007 6:53 PM
> To: Aquatic Life; Tropical Fish Club
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Water parameter question/Apple snails
>
>
> I have a 15 gallon lightly planted tank that houses endlers
> livebearers, young apple snails, and cherry shrimp. When I added the
> apple snails, I started to drop in wardley turtle neutralizer blocks
> 1-2x per week to provide calcium for their shells. (They are healthy
> and growing like crazy!) I figured if it added a little hardness that
> would be fine for the endlers. The shrimp were added later but I also
> figured they'd tolerate any added hardness and the expected higher PH.
> I set up a second 15 gallon on the weekend as I've decided to do a
> set-up with only shrimp and snails. I did a dip strip (brand new,
> stored carefully, exp 12/2008) to see where the original tank was (to
> try and get the new tank close to it) and and was floored by the
> results! The ammonia and nitrites were 0, nitrates less than 20. The
> GH was hard, about 200ppm, not of concern, but the KH was almost 0 and
> the PH was around 6.2. It's 7.6 out of the tap here, and most of my
> tanks stay right around there. I'm running this tank with a rena
> filstar 1 with foam and biomax only. There is a piece of driftwood
> that has been used in other tanks and has never caused a measurable
> difference in PH values before. The whole PH/GH/KH thing is confusing
> to me at best of times but this makes no sense at all.
> Anyone got any ideas what could be going on? I've always worried too
> much to intentionally lower hardness and risk having a PH crash and I
> sure didn't expect these values in this tank, quite the opposite...
>
> --
>
> Carmen
> http://www.reskie.com <http://www.reskie.com>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007
5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24689 From: bmp Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
Hi everyone,

There is a combination 65 gallon tank + stand which I
am strongly considering purchasing at my chain pet
shop. Unfortunately, we don't have a truly
locally-owned shop for me to consider. My local
choices are pretty limited but I need a larger tank.

I wonder if anyone here has any experience with
Aqueon/All Glass Aquarium stands. I realize that the
stand is not solid wood, it is something covered with
a "heavy duty" laminate. Since the tank is 65 gallons,
I am wary, wondering if the stand can really support
that kind of weight. I do know better than to buy the
TopFin (store brand) particle board + laminate stand
and wonder if the Aqueon/AGA is truly better quality.
Please help me decide on this if you know about this
set-up. The Aqueon website didn't give any details or
photo of this stand.

Thanks,
Beverly


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24690 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
Particle board is a sturdy material as long as it doesn't get wet. If the
stand was designed for the 65G tank, then it should be fine. Just make sure
it's set up on a level floor.

If you are kind of handy, you can make your own stand much cheaper. I built
my own frame for my 65G (48" x 18") for less than $20.00 in materials. I
have a blog article with pictures and details on my blog. Once you build
the frame (in a couple of hours), you can decide how you want to finish it.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/DIY%20Tank%20Stand

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bmp
Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 9:33 AM
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Cc: tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums

Hi everyone,

There is a combination 65 gallon tank + stand which I am strongly
considering purchasing at my chain pet shop. Unfortunately, we don't have a
truly locally-owned shop for me to consider. My local choices are pretty
limited but I need a larger tank.

I wonder if anyone here has any experience with Aqueon/All Glass Aquarium
stands. I realize that the stand is not solid wood, it is something covered
with a "heavy duty" laminate. Since the tank is 65 gallons, I am wary,
wondering if the stand can really support that kind of weight. I do know
better than to buy the TopFin (store brand) particle board + laminate stand
and wonder if the Aqueon/AGA is truly better quality.
Please help me decide on this if you know about this set-up. The Aqueon
website didn't give any details or photo of this stand.

Thanks,
Beverly

Peace, please!

__________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs <http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>





No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007
5:44 PM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date: 11/20/2007
5:44 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24691 From: William Date: 11/21/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
One time I built a stand for six 55 gallon tanks with 2x6s and it
cost less than $`100.00 for the materials. The stands was two layers
and was "L" shaped in design. I was using it for breeding so it was
not finished.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Particle board is a sturdy material as long as it doesn't get wet.
If the
> stand was designed for the 65G tank, then it should be fine. Just
make sure
> it's set up on a level floor.
>
> If you are kind of handy, you can make your own stand much
cheaper. I built
> my own frame for my 65G (48" x 18") for less than $20.00 in
materials. I
> have a blog article with pictures and details on my blog. Once you
build
> the frame (in a couple of hours), you can decide how you want to
finish it.
> http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/DIY%20Tank%20Stand
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of bmp
> Sent: Wednesday, November 21, 2007 9:33 AM
> To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
> Cc: tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium stand by Aqueon/All Glass Aquariums
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> There is a combination 65 gallon tank + stand which I am strongly
> considering purchasing at my chain pet shop. Unfortunately, we
don't have a
> truly locally-owned shop for me to consider. My local choices are
pretty
> limited but I need a larger tank.
>
> I wonder if anyone here has any experience with Aqueon/All Glass
Aquarium
> stands. I realize that the stand is not solid wood, it is something
covered
> with a "heavy duty" laminate. Since the tank is 65 gallons, I am
wary,
> wondering if the stand can really support that kind of weight. I do
know
> better than to buy the TopFin (store brand) particle board +
laminate stand
> and wonder if the Aqueon/AGA is truly better quality.
> Please help me decide on this if you know about this set-up. The
Aqueon
> website didn't give any details or photo of this stand.
>
> Thanks,
> Beverly
>
> Peace, please!
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
> Make Yahoo! your homepage.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs <http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs>
>
>
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date:
11/20/2007
> 5:44 PM
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.2/1142 - Release Date:
11/20/2007
> 5:44 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24692 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: An idea
Hi--
I joined this group a couple of weeks ago and I have been enjoying
looking at what everyone has posted here. I have even posted a few
photos of some of my fish in the Members Aquatic Life folder. I love
everyone's photos and the wealth of information available here. And
this has given me an idea that that I wanted to propose and see what
people thought.

I was thinking that each week one fish/animal/plant could be
proposed for discussion--perhaps by a moderator. Members who have
experience with keeping it could then post anything they wanted to
about it. All information would be useful, even if the person
posting didn't have success--Example: If the topic was Marbled
Hatchetfish and one person just wrote: "mine jumped out of the tank
overnight" we would know "Ah! I need to keep the tank covered!" And
hopefully others who had success raising them could give tips--what
they ate, how socialable they were, if the were bred, how difficult
to raise the fry or keep happy etc.

At the end of the week, the comments could be copied and edited
together, giving credit to the author of each comment by their
member name, and put together using photoshop with an image of the
topic fish and the basic bio-data already available on this site or
in any number of books. I think that this would offer valuable
information to those of us looking to try new fish, but want more
information than what is usually found in books and guides. There is
nothing like hearing about other people's experience to help make a
decision.

Anyway, I just thought I would propose this idea and see what
everyone thinks of it.

Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24693 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: HELP!!!
How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?

The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.

Any ideas?

Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24694 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled again.

A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that enable you to visually identify it.

For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it off as best you can.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!

How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?

The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.

Any ideas?

Jodie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24695 From: aaron102272 Date: 11/23/2007
Subject: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
blue-green algae = Cyanobacteria


will Hydrogen Peroxide work?

-------------------------------------------------



Cyanobacteria
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria


Cyanobacteria (Greek: κυανόs (kyanós) = blue + bacterium) also known
as Cyanophyta is a phylum (or "division") of bacteria that obtain
their energy through photosynthesis. They are also known as blue-
green algae, and are the only group of algae that are not eukaryotes.
The name "cyanobacteria" comes from the color of the bacteria, cyan;
the bacteria do not use or produce cyanide whose chemical prefix is
cyano-.

Putative fossil traces of cyanobacteria have been found from around
3.8 billion years ago (see stromatolite). They are a significant
component of the marine nitrogen cycle and an important primary
producer in many areas of the ocean. Their ability to perform
oxygenic (plant-like) photosynthesis is thought to have converted the
early reducing atmosphere into an oxidizing one, which dramatically
changed the life forms on Earth and provoked an explosion of
biodiversity (see oxygen catastrophe).

Forms

Cyanobacteria are found in almost every conceivable habitat, from
oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil. Most are found in fresh
water, while others are marine, occur in damp soil, or even
temporarily moistened rocks in deserts. A few are endosymbionts in
lichens, plants, various protists, or sponges and provide energy for
the host. Some live in the fur of sloths, providing a form of
camouflage.

Cyanobacteria include unicellular and colonial species. Colonies may
form filaments, sheets or even hollow balls. Some filamentous
colonies show the ability to differentiate into several different
cell types: vegetative cells, the normal, photosynthetic cells that
are formed under favorable growing conditions; akinetes, the climate-
resistant spores that may form when environmental conditions become
harsh; and thick-walled heterocysts, which contain the enzyme
nitrogenase, vital for nitrogen fixation. Heterocysts may also form
under the appropriate environmental conditions (anoxic) wherever
nitrogen is necessary. Heterocyst-forming species are specialized for
nitrogen fixation and are able to fix nitrogen gas, which cannot be
used by plants, into ammonia (NH3), nitrites (NO2−) or nitrates
(NO3−), which can be absorbed by plants and converted to protein and
nucleic acids. The rice paddies of Asia, which produce about 75% of
the world's rice[1], could not do so were it not for healthy
populations of nitrogen-fixing cyanobacteria in the rice paddy
fertilizer[2].

Many cyanobacteria also form motile filaments, called hormogonia,
that travel away from the main biomass to bud and form new colonies
elsewhere. The cells in a hormogonium are often thinner than in the
vegetative state, and the cells on either end of the motile chain may
be tapered. In order to break away from the parent colony, a
hormogonium often must tear apart a weaker cell in a filament, called
a necridium.

Each individual cell of a cyanobacterium typically has a thick,
gelatinous cell wall. They differ from other gram-negative bacteria
in that the quorum sensing molecules autoinducer-2[2] and acyl-
homoserine lactones[3] are absent. They lack flagella, but hormogonia
and some unicellular species may move about by gliding along
surfaces. In water columns some cyanobacteria float by forming gas
vesicles, like in archaea.

[edit] Photosynthesis

Cyanobacteria have an elaborate and highly organized system of
internal membranes which function in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis
in cyanobacteria generally uses water as an electron donor and
produces oxygen as a by-product, though some may also use hydrogen
sulfide as occurs among other photosynthetic bacteria. Carbon dioxide
is reduced to form carbohydrates via the Calvin cycle. In most forms
the photosynthetic machinery is embedded into folds of the cell
membrane, called thylakoids. The large amounts of oxygen in the
atmosphere are considered to have been first created by the
activities of ancient cyanobacteria. Due to their ability to fix
nitrogen in aerobic conditions they are often found as symbionts with
a number of other groups of organisms such as fungi (lichens),
corals, pteridophytes (Azolla), angiosperms (Gunnera) etc.

Cyanobacteria are the only group of organisms that are able to reduce
nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions, a fact that may be
responsible for their evolutionary and ecological success. The water-
oxidizing photosynthesis is accomplished by coupling the activity of
photosystem (PS) II and I (Z-scheme). In anaerobic conditions, they
are also able to use only PS I — cyclic photophosphorylation — with
electron donors other than water (hydrogen sulfide, thiosulphate, or
even molecular hydrogen) just like purple photosynthetic bacteria.
Furthermore, they share an archaeal property, the ability to reduce
elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark. Their
photosynthetic electron transport shares the same compartment as the
components of respiratory electron transport. Actually, their plasma
membrane contains only components of the respiratory chain, while the
thylakoid membrane hosts both respiratory and photosynthetic electron
transport.

Attached to thylakoid membrane, phycobilisomes act as light
harvesting antennae for the photosystems . The phycobilisome
components (phycobiliproteins) are responsible for the blue-green
pigmentation of most cyanobacteria. The variations to this theme is
mainly due to carotenoids and phycoerythrins which give the cells the
red-brownish coloration. In some cyanobacteria, the color of light
influences the composition of phycobilisomes. In green light, the
cells accumulate more phycoerythrin, whereas in red light they
produce more phycocyanin. Thus the bacteria appear green in red light
and red in green light. This process is known as complementary
chromatic adaptation and is a way for the cells to maximize the use
of available light for photosynthesis.

A few genera, however, lack phycobilisomes and have chlorophyll b
instead (Prochloron, Prochlorococcus, Prochlorothrix). These were
originally grouped together as the prochlorophytes or
chloroxybacteria, but appear to have developed in several different
lines of cyanobacteria. For this reason they are now considered as
part of cyanobacterial group.

[edit] Relationship to chloroplasts

Chloroplasts found in plants and algae likely evolved from an
endosymbiotic relation with cyanobacteria. This endosymbiotic theory
is supported by various structural and genetic similarities. Primary
chloroplasts are found among the green plants, where they contain
chlorophyll b, and among the red algae and glaucophytes, where they
contain phycobilins. It now appears that these chloroplasts probably
had a single origin, in an ancestor of the clade called Primoplantae.
Other algae likely took their chloroplasts from these forms by
secondary endosymbiosis or ingestion.

It was once thought that the mitochondria in eukaryotes also
developed from an endosymbiotic relationship with cyanobacteria;
however, we now suspect that this evolutionary event occurred when
aerobic Eubacteria were engulfed by anaerobic host cells.
Mitochondria are believed to have originated not from cyanobacteria
but from an ancestor of Rickettsia.

[edit] Cyanobacteria and Earth History

The biochemical capacity to use water as the source for electrons in
photosynthesis evolved once, in a common ancestor of extant
cyanobacteria. The geological record indicates that this transforming
event took place early in our planet's history, at least 2450-2320
million years ago (Ma), and possibly much earlier. Geobiological
interpretation of Archean (>2500 Ma) sedimentary rocks remains a
challenge; available evidence indicates that life existed 3500 Ma,
but the question of when oxygenic photosynthesis evolved continues to
engender debate and research. A clear paleontological window on
cyanobacterial evolution opened about 2000 Ma, revealing an already
diverse biota of blue-greens. Cyanobacteria remained principal
primary producers throughout the Proterozoic Eon (2500-543 Ma), in
part because the redox structure of the oceans favored photautotrophs
capable of nitrogen fixation. Green algae joined blue-greens as major
primary producers on continental shelves near the end of the
Proterozoic, but only with the Mesozoic (251-65 Ma) radiations of
dinoflagellates, coccolithophorids, and diatoms did primary
production in marine shelf waters take modern form. Cyanobacteria
remain critical to marine ecosystems as primary producers in oceanic
gyres, as agents of biological nitrogen fixation, and, in modified
form, as the plastids of marine algae.[4]

[edit] Cyanobacterial Evolution from Comparative Genomics

Recent high-throughput sequencing has provided DNA sequences at an
unprecedented rate, posing considerable analytical challenges, but
also offering insight into the genetic mechanisms of adaptation. Here
we present a comparative genomics-based approach towards
understanding the evolution of these mechanisms in cyanobacteria.
Historically, systematic methods of defining morphological traits in
cyanobacteria have posed a major barrier in reconstructing their true
evolutionary history. The advent of protein, then DNA, sequencing -
most notably the use of 16S rRNA as a molecular marker - helped
circumvent this barrier and now forms the basis of our understanding
of the history of life on Earth. However, these tools have proved
insufficient for resolving relationships between closely related
cyanobacterial species. The 24 cyanobacteria whose genomes have been
compared occupy a wide variety of environmental niches and play major
roles in global carbon and nitrogen cycles. By integrating
phylogenetic data inferred for hundreds to nearly 1000 protein coding
genes common to all or most cyanobacteria, we are able to reconstruct
an evolutionary history of the entire phylum, establishing a
framework for resolving how their metabolic and phenotypic diversity
came about.[4]

[edit] Classification

The cyanobacteria were traditionally classified by morphology into
five sections, referred to by the numerals I-V. The first three -
Chroococcales, Pleurocapsales, and Oscillatoriales - are not
supported by phylogenetic studies. However, the latter two -
Nostocales and Stigonematales - are monophyletic, and make up the
heterocystous cyanobacteria. The members of Chroococales are
unicellular and usually aggregated in colonies. The classic taxonomic
criterion has been the cell morphology and the plane of cell
division. In Pleurocapsales, the cells have the ability to form
internal spores (baeocytes). The rest of the sections include
filamentous species. In Oscillatorialles, the cells are uniseriately
arranged and do not form specialized cells (akinets and heterocysts).
In Nostocalles and Stigonematalles the cells have the ability to
develop heterocysts in certain conditions. Stigonematales, unlike
Nostocalles include species with truly branched trichome. Most taxa
included in the phylum or division Cyanobacteria have not yet been
validly published under the Bacteriological Code. Except:

* The classes Chroobacteria, Hormogoneae and Gloeobacteria
* The orders Chroococcales, Gloeobacterales, Nostocales,
Oscillatoriales, Pleurocapsales and Stigonematales
* The families Prochloraceae and Prochlorotrichaceae
* The genera Halospirulina, Planktothricoides, Prochlorococcus,
Prochloron, Prochlorothrix.

[edit] Biotechnology and applications

Certain cyanobacteria produce cyanotoxins like Anatoxin-a, Anatoxin-
as, Aplysiatoxin, Cylindrospermopsin, Domoic acid, Microcystin LR,
Nodularin R (from Nodularia), or Saxitoxin. Sometimes a mass-
reproduction of cyanobacteria results in algal blooms.

The unicellular cyanobacterium Synechocystis sp. PCC6803 was the
third prokaryote and first photosynthetic organism whose genome was
completely sequenced.[5] It continues to be an important model
organism.[citation needed] The smallest genomes have been found in
Prochlorococcus spp. (1.7 Mb)[6][7] and the largest in Nostoc
punctiforme (9 Mb)[8]. Those of Calothrix spp. are estimated at 12-15
Mb,[9] as large as yeast.

At least one secondary metabolite, cyanovirin, has shown to possess
anti-HIV activity.

See hypolith for an example of cyanobacteria living in extreme
conditions.

Some cyanobacteria are sold as food, notably Aphanizomenon flos-aquae
(E3live) and Arthrospira platensis (Spirulina). It has been suggested
that they could be a much more substantial part of human food
supplies, as a kind of superfood.

Along with algae, some hydrogen producing cyanobacteria are being
considered as an alternative energy source, notably at Oregon State
University, in research supported by the U.S. Department of Energy,
Princeton University, Colorado School of Mines as well as at Uppsala
University, Sweden

[edit] Health Risks

Some species of cyanobacteria produce neurotoxins, hepatotoxins,
cytotoxins, and endotoxins, making them dangerous to animals and
humans. Several cases of human poisoning have been documented but a
lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks.[3][4]

[edit] See also... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
>
> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24696 From: harry perry Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae/Try this
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/algae.htm

Peroxide works, applied directly with an eye dropper.

In the article above it mentions a medication. This works well but test your water frequently when treating. And remove the carbon from your filter no matter what it says on the container. I use a sponge filter during medication.

If you don't find the cause it will be back. Easiest and best for me was live plants.

I don't have any algae of any kind in three tanks.

Harry

aaron102272 <aaron102272@...> wrote:
blue-green algae = Cyanobacteria

will Hydrogen Peroxide work?

-------------------------------------------------

Cyanobacteria
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria

Cyanobacteria (Greek: κυανόs (kyanós) = blue + bacterium) also known
as Cyanophyta is a phylum (or "division") of bacteria that obtain
their energy through photosynthesis. They are also known as blue-
green algae, and are the only group of algae that are not eukaryotes.
The name "cyanobacteria" comes from the color of the bacteria, cyan;
the bacteria do not use or produce cyanide whose chemical prefix is
cyano-.

Putative fossil traces of cyanobacteria have been found from around
3.8 billion years ago (see stromatolite). They are a significant
component of the marine nitrogen cycle and an important primary
producer in many areas of the ocean. Their ability to perform
oxygenic (plant-like) photosynthesis is thought to have converted the
early reducing atmosphere into an oxidizing one, which dramatically
changed the life forms on Earth and provoked an explosion of
biodiversity (see oxygen catastrophe).

Forms

Cyanobacteria are found in almost every conceivable habitat, from
oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil. Most are found in fresh
water, while others are marine, occur in damp soil, or even
temporarily moistened rocks in deserts. A few are endosymbionts in
lichens, plants, various protists, or sponges and provide energy for
the host. Some live in the fur of sloths, providing a form of
camouflage.

Cyanobacteria include unicellular and colonial species. Colonies may
form filaments, sheets or even hollow balls. Some filamentous
colonies show the ability to differentiate into several different
cell types: vegetative cells, the normal, photosynthetic cells that
are formed under favorable growing conditions; akinetes, the climate-
resistant spores that may form when environmental conditions become
harsh; and thick-walled heterocysts, which contain the enzyme
nitrogenase, vital for nitrogen fixation. Heterocysts may also form
under the appropriate environmental conditions (anoxic) wherever
nitrogen is necessary. Heterocyst-forming species are specialized for
nitrogen fixation and are able to fix nitrogen gas, which cannot be
used by plants, into ammonia (NH3), nitrites (NO2−) or nitrates
(NO3−), which can be absorbed by plants and converted to protein and
nucleic acids. The rice paddies of Asia, which produce about 75% of
the world's rice[1], could not do so were it not for healthy
populations of nitrogen-fixing cyanobacteria in the rice paddy
fertilizer[2].

Many cyanobacteria also form motile filaments, called hormogonia,
that travel away from the main biomass to bud and form new colonies
elsewhere. The cells in a hormogonium are often thinner than in the
vegetative state, and the cells on either end of the motile chain may
be tapered. In order to break away from the parent colony, a
hormogonium often must tear apart a weaker cell in a filament, called
a necridium.

Each individual cell of a cyanobacterium typically has a thick,
gelatinous cell wall. They differ from other gram-negative bacteria
in that the quorum sensing molecules autoinducer-2[2] and acyl-
homoserine lactones[3] are absent. They lack flagella, but hormogonia
and some unicellular species may move about by gliding along
surfaces. In water columns some cyanobacteria float by forming gas
vesicles, like in archaea.

[edit] Photosynthesis

Cyanobacteria have an elaborate and highly organized system of
internal membranes which function in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis
in cyanobacteria generally uses water as an electron donor and
produces oxygen as a by-product, though some may also use hydrogen
sulfide as occurs among other photosynthetic bacteria. Carbon dioxide
is reduced to form carbohydrates via the Calvin cycle. In most forms
the photosynthetic machinery is embedded into folds of the cell
membrane, called thylakoids. The large amounts of oxygen in the
atmosphere are considered to have been first created by the
activities of ancient cyanobacteria. Due to their ability to fix
nitrogen in aerobic conditions they are often found as symbionts with
a number of other groups of organisms such as fungi (lichens),
corals, pteridophytes (Azolla), angiosperms (Gunnera) etc.

Cyanobacteria are the only group of organisms that are able to reduce
nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions, a fact that may be
responsible for their evolutionary and ecological success. The water-
oxidizing photosynthesis is accomplished by coupling the activity of
photosystem (PS) II and I (Z-scheme). In anaerobic conditions, they
are also able to use only PS I — cyclic photophosphorylation — with
electron donors other than water (hydrogen sulfide, thiosulphate, or
even molecular hydrogen) just like purple photosynthetic bacteria.
Furthermore, they share an archaeal property, the ability to reduce
elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark. Their
photosynthetic electron transport shares the same compartment as the
components of respiratory electron transport. Actually, their plasma
membrane contains only components of the respiratory chain, while the
thylakoid membrane hosts both respiratory and photosynthetic electron
transport.

Attached to thylakoid membrane, phycobilisomes act as light
harvesting antennae for the photosystems . The phycobilisome
components (phycobiliproteins) are responsible for the blue-green
pigmentation of most cyanobacteria. The variations to this theme is
mainly due to carotenoids and phycoerythrins which give the cells the
red-brownish coloration. In some cyanobacteria, the color of light
influences the composition of phycobilisomes. In green light, the
cells accumulate more phycoerythrin, whereas in red light they
produce more phycocyanin. Thus the bacteria appear green in red light
and red in green light. This process is known as complementary
chromatic adaptation and is a way for the cells to maximize the use
of available light for photosynthesis.

A few genera, however, lack phycobilisomes and have chlorophyll b
instead (Prochloron, Prochlorococcus, Prochlorothrix). These were
originally grouped together as the prochlorophytes or
chloroxybacteria, but appear to have developed in several different
lines of cyanobacteria. For this reason they are now considered as
part of cyanobacterial group.

[edit] Relationship to chloroplasts

Chloroplasts found in plants and algae likely evolved from an
endosymbiotic relation with cyanobacteria. This endosymbiotic theory
is supported by various structural and genetic similarities. Primary
chloroplasts are found among the green plants, where they contain
chlorophyll b, and among the red algae and glaucophytes, where they
contain phycobilins. It now appears that these chloroplasts probably
had a single origin, in an ancestor of the clade called Primoplantae.
Other algae likely took their chloroplasts from these forms by
secondary endosymbiosis or ingestion.

It was once thought that the mitochondria in eukaryotes also
developed from an endosymbiotic relationship with cyanobacteria;
however, we now suspect that this evolutionary event occurred when
aerobic Eubacteria were engulfed by anaerobic host cells.
Mitochondria are believed to have originated not from cyanobacteria
but from an ancestor of Rickettsia.

[edit] Cyanobacteria and Earth History

The biochemical capacity to use water as the source for electrons in
photosynthesis evolved once, in a common ancestor of extant
cyanobacteria. The geological record indicates that this transforming
event took place early in our planet's history, at least 2450-2320
million years ago (Ma), and possibly much earlier. Geobiological
interpretation of Archean (>2500 Ma) sedimentary rocks remains a
challenge; available evidence indicates that life existed 3500 Ma,
but the question of when oxygenic photosynthesis evolved continues to
engender debate and research. A clear paleontological window on
cyanobacterial evolution opened about 2000 Ma, revealing an already
diverse biota of blue-greens. Cyanobacteria remained principal
primary producers throughout the Proterozoic Eon (2500-543 Ma), in
part because the redox structure of the oceans favored photautotrophs
capable of nitrogen fixation. Green algae joined blue-greens as major
primary producers on continental shelves near the end of the
Proterozoic, but only with the Mesozoic (251-65 Ma) radiations of
dinoflagellates, coccolithophorids, and diatoms did primary
production in marine shelf waters take modern form. Cyanobacteria
remain critical to marine ecosystems as primary producers in oceanic
gyres, as agents of biological nitrogen fixation, and, in modified
form, as the plastids of marine algae.[4]

[edit] Cyanobacterial Evolution from Comparative Genomics

Recent high-throughput sequencing has provided DNA sequences at an
unprecedented rate, posing considerable analytical challenges, but
also offering insight into the genetic mechanisms of adaptation. Here
we present a comparative genomics-based approach towards
understanding the evolution of these mechanisms in cyanobacteria.
Historically, systematic methods of defining morphological traits in
cyanobacteria have posed a major barrier in reconstructing their true
evolutionary history. The advent of protein, then DNA, sequencing -
most notably the use of 16S rRNA as a molecular marker - helped
circumvent this barrier and now forms the basis of our understanding
of the history of life on Earth. However, these tools have proved
insufficient for resolving relationships between closely related
cyanobacterial species. The 24 cyanobacteria whose genomes have been
compared occupy a wide variety of environmental niches and play major
roles in global carbon and nitrogen cycles. By integrating
phylogenetic data inferred for hundreds to nearly 1000 protein coding
genes common to all or most cyanobacteria, we are able to reconstruct
an evolutionary history of the entire phylum, establishing a
framework for resolving how their metabolic and phenotypic diversity
came about.[4]

[edit] Classification

The cyanobacteria were traditionally classified by morphology into
five sections, referred to by the numerals I-V. The first three -
Chroococcales, Pleurocapsales, and Oscillatoriales - are not
supported by phylogenetic studies. However, the latter two -
Nostocales and Stigonematales - are monophyletic, and make up the
heterocystous cyanobacteria. The members of Chroococales are
unicellular and usually aggregated in colonies. The classic taxonomic
criterion has been the cell morphology and the plane of cell
division. In Pleurocapsales, the cells have the ability to form
internal spores (baeocytes). The rest of the sections include
filamentous species. In Oscillatorialles, the cells are uniseriately
arranged and do not form specialized cells (akinets and heterocysts).
In Nostocalles and Stigonematalles the cells have the ability to
develop heterocysts in certain conditions. Stigonematales, unlike
Nostocalles include species with truly branched trichome. Most taxa
included in the phylum or division Cyanobacteria have not yet been
validly published under the Bacteriological Code. Except:

* The classes Chroobacteria, Hormogoneae and Gloeobacteria
* The orders Chroococcales, Gloeobacterales, Nostocales,
Oscillatoriales, Pleurocapsales and Stigonematales
* The families Prochloraceae and Prochlorotrichaceae
* The genera Halospirulina, Planktothricoides, Prochlorococcus,
Prochloron, Prochlorothrix.

[edit] Biotechnology and applications

Certain cyanobacteria produce cyanotoxins like Anatoxin-a, Anatoxin-
as, Aplysiatoxin, Cylindrospermopsin, Domoic acid, Microcystin LR,
Nodularin R (from Nodularia), or Saxitoxin. Sometimes a mass-
reproduction of cyanobacteria results in algal blooms.

The unicellular cyanobacterium Synechocystis sp. PCC6803 was the
third prokaryote and first photosynthetic organism whose genome was
completely sequenced.[5] It continues to be an important model
organism.[citation needed] The smallest genomes have been found in
Prochlorococcus spp. (1.7 Mb)[6][7] and the largest in Nostoc
punctiforme (9 Mb)[8]. Those of Calothrix spp. are estimated at 12-15
Mb,[9] as large as yeast.

At least one secondary metabolite, cyanovirin, has shown to possess
anti-HIV activity.

See hypolith for an example of cyanobacteria living in extreme
conditions.

Some cyanobacteria are sold as food, notably Aphanizomenon flos-aquae
(E3live) and Arthrospira platensis (Spirulina). It has been suggested
that they could be a much more substantial part of human food
supplies, as a kind of superfood.

Along with algae, some hydrogen producing cyanobacteria are being
considered as an alternative energy source, notably at Oregon State
University, in research supported by the U.S. Department of Energy,
Princeton University, Colorado School of Mines as well as at Uppsala
University, Sweden

[edit] Health Risks

Some species of cyanobacteria produce neurotoxins, hepatotoxins,
cytotoxins, and endotoxins, making them dangerous to animals and
humans. Several cases of human poisoning have been documented but a
lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks.[3][4]

[edit] See also... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
>
> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>






Visit us at www.groups.yahoo.com/group/badis-dario

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24697 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have seen
new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.

Jodie


Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled again.
>
> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established,
> they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the
> cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that
> enable you to visually identify it.
>
> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it
> off as best you can.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>
> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24698 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have seen
> new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>
> Jodie
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> >
> > The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> > erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> > bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
> again.
> >
> > A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> > get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established,
> > they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the
> > cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that
> > enable you to visually identify it.
> >
> > For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it
> > off as best you can.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
> >
> > How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
> >
> > The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> > cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
>
> Brown stuff
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24699 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
The list does not accept attachments. You will need to upload any photos
to the Photo section of the group, and files to the file section.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 8:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!

I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have seen
new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.

Jodie


Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
again.
>
> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established,

> they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the
> cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that
> enable you to visually identify it.
>
> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it

> off as best you can.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>
> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24700 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
I added a photo entitled Cyanobacteria, if you could look at it and see
if that actually is cyanobacteria. I could be wrong, as I'm very new to
this.

Thanks,
Jodie

Frog Dog wrote:
>
>
> > I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
> > best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have seen
> > new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Steve Szabo wrote:
> > >
> > > The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> > > erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> > > bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
> > again.
> > >
> > > A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> > > get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established,
> > > they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the
> > > cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that
> > > enable you to visually identify it.
> > >
> > > For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it
> > > off as best you can.
> > >
> > > \\Steve//
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> > > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
> > >
> > > How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
> > >
> > > The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> > > cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
> > >
> > > Any ideas?
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Brown stuff
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24701 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
I realized that after the second attempt and I uploaded. :)

Jodie

Steve Szabo wrote:
>
> The list does not accept attachments. You will need to upload any photos
> to the Photo section of the group, and files to the file section.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>]
> On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 8:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>
> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have seen
> new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>
> Jodie
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> >
> > The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> > erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> > bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
> again.
> >
> > A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> > get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become established,
>
> > they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients that the
> > cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large colonies that
> > enable you to visually identify it.
> >
> > For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon it
>
> > off as best you can.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
> >
> > How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
> >
> > The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> > cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24702 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!!
I don't know about FW, for SWT increase water flow,
lower feedings for a while. Most people over feed
their fish tremendously. Do FW have a type of fish
that burrow around in the substrate?? If so, buy one.
It will keep the subrate from getting packed. Cyano
will 'pack' substrate. Syphon as much as possible like
the other person suggested. It will also keep the
substrate from packing. Frequent water changes.
Remember cyano is not an alga but a bacteria. I have
never had any success with any medications. It wipes
out the good stuff too. It may take longer but is
better in the long run. Yep,it is ugly, but be
patient.
With increased husbandry you can get rid of it.
In SWT everybody get's it sometime or another.
1:See is you can put a power head blowing towards that
direction to increase the flow there,
2: buy ya a criiter that burrows
3:syphon syphon syphon
4:reduce food for a while
5:water changes
6:: Be patient
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we
> have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24703 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
You can't send pictures through this group. You have to post your pictures
on your own online photo album or in the groups photo album and give us the
link. You called the picture "brown stuff" which makes me think this is
probably Diatoms (aka brown algae) which is common in new tanks due to the
excess silicates released from things like the silicone, substrate,
decorations, etc. It's not harmful and will die off on it's own. You
should be able to just vacuum it up with your gravel vacuum. Any on your
decorations or glass can be rubbed or brushed off easily with a sponge.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 7:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture


> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have
> seen new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>
> Jodie
>
> Steve Szabo wrote:
> >
> > The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
> > erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
> > bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
> again.
> >
> > A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
> > get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become
> > established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients
> > that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large
> > colonies that enable you to visually identify it.
> >
> > For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon
> > it off as best you can.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> > Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
> >
> > How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
> >
> > The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> > cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
>
> Brown stuff
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007
7:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24704 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
I did submit picture and it is pending waiting for approval by list owner.

I wasn't sure if it was the Diatoms or Cyanobacteria. It started before
I had any critters in the tank, and before I
used food to feed. I have a magnetic cleaner that I use to clean it off
the tank. How long does it take for diatoms to die off? I'm hoping for
just diatoms.

Jodie

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> You can't send pictures through this group. You have to post your pictures
> on your own online photo album or in the groups photo album and give us the
> link. You called the picture "brown stuff" which makes me think this is
> probably Diatoms (aka brown algae) which is common in new tanks due to the
> excess silicates released from things like the silicone, substrate,
> decorations, etc. It's not harmful and will die off on it's own. You
> should be able to just vacuum it up with your gravel vacuum. Any on your
> decorations or glass can be rubbed or brushed off easily with a sponge.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>
>
>
>> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
>> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have
>> seen new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>>
>> Jodie
>>
>> Steve Szabo wrote:
>>
>>> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
>>> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
>>> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
>>>
>> again.
>>
>>> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
>>> get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become
>>> established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients
>>> that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large
>>> colonies that enable you to visually identify it.
>>>
>>> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon
>>> it off as best you can.
>>>
>>> \\Steve//
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
>>> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>
>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>
>>> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>>>
>>> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>>>
>>> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
>>> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>>>
>>> Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Brown stuff
>>
>>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007
> 7:39 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24705 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
I thought Cyanobacteria was brilliant blue-green and diatoms was rusty
brown?

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:15 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture

I did submit picture and it is pending waiting for approval by list owner.

I wasn't sure if it was the Diatoms or Cyanobacteria. It started before
I had any critters in the tank, and before I
used food to feed. I have a magnetic cleaner that I use to clean it off
the tank. How long does it take for diatoms to die off? I'm hoping for
just diatoms.

Jodie

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> You can't send pictures through this group. You have to post your
pictures
> on your own online photo album or in the groups photo album and give us
the
> link. You called the picture "brown stuff" which makes me think this is
> probably Diatoms (aka brown algae) which is common in new tanks due to the
> excess silicates released from things like the silicone, substrate,
> decorations, etc. It's not harmful and will die off on it's own. You
> should be able to just vacuum it up with your gravel vacuum. Any on your
> decorations or glass can be rubbed or brushed off easily with a sponge.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 7:20 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>
>
>
>> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
>> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have
>> seen new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>>
>> Jodie
>>
>> Steve Szabo wrote:
>>
>>> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
>>> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
>>> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
>>>
>> again.
>>
>>> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
>>> get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become
>>> established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients
>>> that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large
>>> colonies that enable you to visually identify it.
>>>
>>> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon
>>> it off as best you can.
>>>
>>> \\Steve//
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
>>> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>
>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>
>>> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>>>
>>> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>>>
>>> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
>>> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>>>
>>> Any ideas?
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> Brown stuff
>>
>>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date:
11/23/2007
> 7:39 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> .´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
.´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24706 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
I finally found a picture of what I have and it is Diatoms.

Jodie

Donna Ransome wrote:
> I thought Cyanobacteria was brilliant blue-green and diatoms was rusty
> brown?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>
> I did submit picture and it is pending waiting for approval by list owner.
>
> I wasn't sure if it was the Diatoms or Cyanobacteria. It started before
> I had any critters in the tank, and before I
> used food to feed. I have a magnetic cleaner that I use to clean it off
> the tank. How long does it take for diatoms to die off? I'm hoping for
> just diatoms.
>
> Jodie
>
> Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
>
>> You can't send pictures through this group. You have to post your
>>
> pictures
>
>> on your own online photo album or in the groups photo album and give us
>>
> the
>
>> link. You called the picture "brown stuff" which makes me think this is
>> probably Diatoms (aka brown algae) which is common in new tanks due to the
>> excess silicates released from things like the silicone, substrate,
>> decorations, etc. It's not harmful and will die off on it's own. You
>> should be able to just vacuum it up with your gravel vacuum. Any on your
>> decorations or glass can be rubbed or brushed off easily with a sponge.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder
>> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
>> Behalf Of Frog Dog
>> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 7:20 AM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
>>> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have
>>> seen new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>> Steve Szabo wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
>>>> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
>>>> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
>>>>
>>>>
>>> again.
>>>
>>>
>>>> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is to
>>>> get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become
>>>> established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients
>>>> that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large
>>>> colonies that enable you to visually identify it.
>>>>
>>>> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon
>>>> it off as best you can.
>>>>
>>>> \\Steve//
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
>>>> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
>>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>>>>
>>>> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>>>>
>>>> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
>>>> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>>>>
>>>> Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> Jodie
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Brown stuff
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date:
>>
> 11/23/2007
>
>> 7:39 PM
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
>> .´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
>> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
>>
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
>
>> <ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
>> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> .´Ż`..¸¸.><((((ş>..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸><((((ş> ¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><..´Ż`..¸¸..´Ż`..¸<ş((((><¸..´Ż`..¸. , ..´Ż`...<ş((((><.´Ż`..¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.><((((ş>.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸><((((ş> ¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸<ş((((><¸.ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸. , .ˇ´Ż`ˇ..<ş((((><ˇ´Ż`ˇ.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24707 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: HELP!!! With Picture
As your tank matures and the excess silicate level diminishes, the diatoms
will die off. They are usually easy to clean up although I have seen
threads where the diatoms were more sticky but that was on a nylon stocking
full of old gravel they were using to seed the new tank. When I had my
diatoms in my new glass tank a few years back, they brushed off the
decorations and glass and were vacuumed up by the gravel vacuum without much
problem. I never had the issue with my new acrylic tank since no silicone
is used in the construction.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:23 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture

I finally found a picture of what I have and it is Diatoms.

Jodie

Donna Ransome wrote:
> I thought Cyanobacteria was brilliant blue-green and diatoms was rusty
> brown?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 1:15 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>
> I did submit picture and it is pending waiting for approval by list owner.
>
> I wasn't sure if it was the Diatoms or Cyanobacteria. It started
> before I had any critters in the tank, and before I used food to feed.
> I have a magnetic cleaner that I use to clean it off the tank. How
> long does it take for diatoms to die off? I'm hoping for just diatoms.
>
> Jodie
>
> Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
>
>> You can't send pictures through this group. You have to post your
>>
> pictures
>
>> on your own online photo album or in the groups photo album and give
>> us
>>
> the
>
>> link. You called the picture "brown stuff" which makes me think this
>> is probably Diatoms (aka brown algae) which is common in new tanks
>> due to the excess silicates released from things like the silicone,
>> substrate, decorations, etc. It's not harmful and will die off on
>> it's own. You should be able to just vacuum it up with your gravel
>> vacuum. Any on your decorations or glass can be rubbed or brushed off
easily with a sponge.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder
>> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
>> Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 7:20 AM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] HELP!!! With Picture
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> I think this is cyanobacteria? I'm attaching a picture. What are the
>>> best plants to get? I did get some cuttings from a LFS, and I have
>>> seen new growth on the plant so I think it is happy.
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>> Steve Szabo wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> The for sure, quick and easy way is to does the tank with
>>>> erythromycin. However, this will also kill most of your nitrifying
>>>> bacteria as well, which means that the tank will need to be cycled
>>>>
>>>>
>>> again.
>>>
>>>
>>>> A slower, and not so sure way to rid the tank of cyanobacteria is
>>>> to get a good growth of plants going. Once the plants become
>>>> established, they will consume most, if not all, of the nutrients
>>>> that the cyanobacteria need, so you will cease to see the large
>>>> colonies that enable you to visually identify it.
>>>>
>>>> For the time being, the best you can do is to loosen it, and siphon
>>>> it off as best you can.
>>>>
>>>> \\Steve//
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
>>>> Sent: Friday, November 23, 2007 9:54 PM
>>>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Subject: [AquaticLife] HELP!!!
>>>>
>>>> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>>>>
>>>> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
>>>> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>>>>
>>>> Any ideas?
>>>>
>>>> Jodie
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> Brown stuff
>>>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007
7:39 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24708 From: Debra Melton Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
Tom:

I think that is a *GREAT* idea, that's more like I thought these forums
were about but mostly we are reading about cycling tanks and pwc's (not
that it isn't fascinating reading) but I'd like to see more talk about fish;
big ones, little ones, easy to keep, hard to breed etc.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24709 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
I am for that. I am interested in learning about
different FW fish, mainly exotic, and hear from those
who have SWF.
I am not putting the list down at all. I think it is
WONDERFUL! All of the people are so nice!
I bought a peppermint shrimp today!! I did break down
and tried a large box chain. I have not been able to
find one anywhere else, and the shipping is astro from
online sites!!
It is in QT with a clownfish. I will wait about 3
weeks befor moving to the DT.
Wish me luck~

--- Debra Melton <dmelton2@...> wrote:

> Tom:
>
> I think that is a *GREAT* idea, that's more like I
> thought these forums
> were about but mostly we are reading about cycling
> tanks and pwc's (not
> that it isn't fascinating reading) but I'd like to
> see more talk about fish;
> big ones, little ones, easy to keep, hard to breed
> etc.
>
> Deb
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24710 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
I think that would be useful to a new person to the hobby.

Jodie

mosquitokr2002 wrote:
>
> Hi--
> I joined this group a couple of weeks ago and I have been enjoying
> looking at what everyone has posted here. I have even posted a few
> photos of some of my fish in the Members Aquatic Life folder. I love
> everyone's photos and the wealth of information available here. And
> this has given me an idea that that I wanted to propose and see what
> people thought.
>
> I was thinking that each week one fish/animal/plant could be
> proposed for discussion--perhaps by a moderator. Members who have
> experience with keeping it could then post anything they wanted to
> about it. All information would be useful, even if the person
> posting didn't have success--Example: If the topic was Marbled
> Hatchetfish and one person just wrote: "mine jumped out of the tank
> overnight" we would know "Ah! I need to keep the tank covered!" And
> hopefully others who had success raising them could give tips--what
> they ate, how socialable they were, if the were bred, how difficult
> to raise the fry or keep happy etc.
>
> At the end of the week, the comments could be copied and edited
> together, giving credit to the author of each comment by their
> member name, and put together using photoshop with an image of the
> topic fish and the basic bio-data already available on this site or
> in any number of books. I think that this would offer valuable
> information to those of us looking to try new fish, but want more
> information than what is usually found in books and guides. There is
> nothing like hearing about other people's experience to help make a
> decision.
>
> Anyway, I just thought I would propose this idea and see what
> everyone thinks of it.
>
> Tom
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24711 From: Kate Conrow Date: 11/24/2007
Subject: Re: An idea
I think that's a really cool idea Tom.
Kate

mosquitokr2002 <mosquitokr2002@...> wrote: Hi--
I joined this group a couple of weeks ago and I have been enjoying
looking at what everyone has posted here. I have even posted a few
photos of some of my fish in the Members Aquatic Life folder. I love
everyone's photos and the wealth of information available here. And
this has given me an idea that that I wanted to propose and see what
people thought.

I was thinking that each week one fish/animal/plant could be
proposed for discussion--perhaps by a moderator. Members who have
experience with keeping it could then post anything they wanted to
about it. All information would be useful, even if the person
posting didn't have success--Example: If the topic was Marbled
Hatchetfish and one person just wrote: "mine jumped out of the tank
overnight" we would know "Ah! I need to keep the tank covered!" And
hopefully others who had success raising them could give tips--what
they ate, how socialable they were, if the were bred, how difficult
to raise the fry or keep happy etc.

At the end of the week, the comments could be copied and edited
together, giving credit to the author of each comment by their
member name, and put together using photoshop with an image of the
topic fish and the basic bio-data already available on this site or
in any number of books. I think that this would offer valuable
information to those of us looking to try new fish, but want more
information than what is usually found in books and guides. There is
nothing like hearing about other people's experience to help make a
decision.

Anyway, I just thought I would propose this idea and see what
everyone thinks of it.

Tom






---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24712 From: sigit_18786 Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: help to identify
my name sigit from indonesia. i study in biology departement in
university. i need help to identify some algae species. i was running
paper on it, but i meet a problem, i dont have enough source of data
and litterature to identify. i will send a picture , but how to send
picture in this group? i found the spesies in ponds (tambak_indo). i
need to know the name of the species. Gracilaria A (3 pictures),
Gracilaria B (3 pic), and green algae (2 pic). sorry , my english are
not too good :). i hope moderator can appove this message, thank yoou
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24713 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: bio wheel taking a crap
Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping less
and less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again to no
avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the nearest
shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme, and
you guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel, this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon
tank, and I got the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get
the next larger size, or stay with this one, and do you have any other
recommendations? Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24714 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as easily?

It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it completely
stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-bacteria
growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your tank to
handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.

While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter wheel will
need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot water) and
let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times on mine
over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could just buy a
new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel filter
wheel is actually damaged.

Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar capacity
so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives you
redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.

As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that. Some people
use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with fish stage
of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a while and
it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off all of the
N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.

I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name doesn't really
"condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy metals. Some of
the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera and lot of
other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap

Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping less and
less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of course
this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again to no
avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the nearest
shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme, and you
guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I might
pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the bio wheel,
this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank, and I got
the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next larger size,
or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24715 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date:
11/24/2007
> 5:58 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24716 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it
stopped last night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough
water pushing it. It wasn't completely dried out but I don't know
how long it had been sitting there not turning. So, I can let it dry
out? Of course this morning when I saw it had stopped the first
thing I did was change out the filter cartridge. I still had the old
one sitting on top of the garbage can and it was still wet so I
stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there. So, if I do
that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up a
new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date:
11/24/2007
> 5:58 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24717 From: Eric Roberts Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
On one of my tanks the wheels barely (2 Emp 400’s) move and they are
encrusted with algae and they don’t seem to pump a lot…but you know
what…that tank always remains crystal clear



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap



Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping less
and less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again to no
avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the nearest
shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme, and
you guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel, this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon
tank, and I got the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get
the next larger size, or stay with this one, and do you have any other
recommendations? Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24718 From: Scott Schulz Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Geophagus as companion for Chocolate Cichlids?
Hello,

Looking for a companion for a Chocolate Cichlid, and several have
recommended either Severum, Oscars(?) or fish of the Geophagus
persuasion as possible companions.

I'm thinking the Severum's and the Oscars might be a bit rough, but the
Geophagines seem peaceful enough. Would anyone care to comment on any
of the above, or have other recommendations?

Thanks for any input,

SWS
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24719 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
The amount of filtration needed is determined by the bioload of a tank. You
say that you have seven fish but it would depend on what type and size of
fish. If you have seven smaller tropical fish in a 30G tank, then you
wouldn't need much filtration. If you have seven large heavy waste
producing fish, then you would probably be overstocked and over-filtration
would help until a larger tank can be set up.

Bio-Wheel technology is still comparatively new technology and most HOB's
still only use regular filter cartridges with some type of floss pad or
sponge for the biological filtration. A Penguin Bio-Wheel filter system has
the filter cartridge with the carbon and the blue filter floss pad which
likely has sufficient numbers of N-bacteria growing on them long before the
water gets to the bio-wheel itself, especially if your tank is lightly
stocked. Now if you are over-stocked, the bio-wheel could have the extra
N-bacteria needed to keep the tank cycled.

That is another good thing about having two filter systems on each tank. If
you need to do cleaning or maintenance on one, the other one stays fully
cycled which helps minimize any possible mini-cycle effect you might have.

So the short answer is probably yes... if your seven fish are under 3" small
body mass fish, you should have no problems with removing your bio-wheel
filter wheel and giving it a good cleaning/scrubbing with a soft bristle
tooth brush, including in each fold of the filter to remove any possible
buildup. What I've seen happen is the buildup causes the bio-wheel to
become heavy on one side which causes it to not want to spin. Once it's
cleaned of any buildup, the water flow will spin it with no problem.

To be extra safe, you could do an ammonia and nitrite test on your tank
while the bio-wheel filter wheel is removed to verify that your tank is not
going into a mini-cycle. Remember you are just removing the wheel itself
and leaving the rest of the filter cartridge and system running.

For more reading about filter maintenance and especially the bio-wheel, go
to my blog. I have a long blog on filter maintenance and cleaning and
another filter profile blog on my bio-wheel showing the filter cartridge
modifications I made to remove the carbon and add extra filter floss
padding.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap

The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it stopped last
night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough water pushing it. It
wasn't completely dried out but I don't know how long it had been sitting
there not turning. So, I can let it dry out? Of course this morning when I
saw it had stopped the first thing I did was change out the filter
cartridge. I still had the old one sitting on top of the garbage can and it
was still wet so I stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there.
So, if I do that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up
a new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24720 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after years of heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying of water thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is being sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.

Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel would never stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a defective wheel,

If yo do get a 2nd filter I would get and Accu-Clear. That way you would have the best of both worlds. This is what I have done on a 75Gallon Highly overstocked African Cichlid Tank. Overstocked but well filtered and "No Problems".

John in Nevada

pinkvock <pinkvock@...> wrote:
The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it
stopped last night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough
water pushing it. It wasn't completely dried out but I don't know
how long it had been sitting there not turning. So, I can let it dry
out? Of course this morning when I saw it had stopped the first
thing I did was change out the filter cartridge. I still had the old
one sitting on top of the garbage can and it was still wet so I
stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there. So, if I do
that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up a
new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date:
11/24/2007
> 5:58 PM
>






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24721 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
There seems to be a mis-conception here. Bio Wheels do not pump they are turned by the spray bars. It is necessary to keep the holes clear and properly adjusted.

John in Nevada

Eric Roberts <woad@...> wrote:
On one of my tanks the wheels barely (2 Emp 400’s) move and they are
encrusted with algae and they don’t seem to pump a lot…but you know
what…that tank always remains crystal clear

Eric

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap

Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping less
and less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again to no
avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the nearest
shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme, and
you guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel, this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon
tank, and I got the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get
the next larger size, or stay with this one, and do you have any other
recommendations? Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24722 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Use 1 tablet of erthomycin (250mil) for each 25 gallons of water, for FW and SW.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: aaron102272
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2007 12:09 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae



blue-green algae = Cyanobacteria

will Hydrogen Peroxide work?

-------------------------------------------------

Cyanobacteria
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria

Cyanobacteria (Greek: κυανόs (kyanós) = blue + bacterium) also known
as Cyanophyta is a phylum (or "division") of bacteria that obtain
their energy through photosynthesis. They are also known as blue-
green algae, and are the only group of algae that are not eukaryotes.
The name "cyanobacteria" comes from the color of the bacteria, cyan;
the bacteria do not use or produce cyanide whose chemical prefix is
cyano-.

Putative fossil traces of cyanobacteria have been found from around
3.8 billion years ago (see stromatolite). They are a significant
component of the marine nitrogen cycle and an important primary
producer in many areas of the ocean. Their ability to perform
oxygenic (plant-like) photosynthesis is thought to have converted the
early reducing atmosphere into an oxidizing one, which dramatically
changed the life forms on Earth and provoked an explosion of
biodiversity (see oxygen catastrophe).

Forms

Cyanobacteria are found in almost every conceivable habitat, from
oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil. Most are found in fresh
water, while others are marine, occur in damp soil, or even
temporarily moistened rocks in deserts. A few are endosymbionts in
lichens, plants, various protists, or sponges and provide energy for
the host. Some live in the fur of sloths, providing a form of
camouflage.

Cyanobacteria include unicellular and colonial species. Colonies may
form filaments, sheets or even hollow balls. Some filamentous
colonies show the ability to differentiate into several different
cell types: vegetative cells, the normal, photosynthetic cells that
are formed under favorable growing conditions; akinetes, the climate-
resistant spores that may form when environmental conditions become
harsh; and thick-walled heterocysts, which contain the enzyme
nitrogenase, vital for nitrogen fixation. Heterocysts may also form
under the appropriate environmental conditions (anoxic) wherever
nitrogen is necessary. Heterocyst-forming species are specialized for
nitrogen fixation and are able to fix nitrogen gas, which cannot be
used by plants, into ammonia (NH3), nitrites (NO2−) or nitrates
(NO3−), which can be absorbed by plants and converted to protein and
nucleic acids. The rice paddies of Asia, which produce about 75% of
the world's rice[1], could not do so were it not for healthy
populations of nitrogen-fixing cyanobacteria in the rice paddy
fertilizer[2].

Many cyanobacteria also form motile filaments, called hormogonia,
that travel away from the main biomass to bud and form new colonies
elsewhere. The cells in a hormogonium are often thinner than in the
vegetative state, and the cells on either end of the motile chain may
be tapered. In order to break away from the parent colony, a
hormogonium often must tear apart a weaker cell in a filament, called
a necridium.

Each individual cell of a cyanobacterium typically has a thick,
gelatinous cell wall. They differ from other gram-negative bacteria
in that the quorum sensing molecules autoinducer-2[2] and acyl-
homoserine lactones[3] are absent. They lack flagella, but hormogonia
and some unicellular species may move about by gliding along
surfaces. In water columns some cyanobacteria float by forming gas
vesicles, like in archaea.

[edit] Photosynthesis

Cyanobacteria have an elaborate and highly organized system of
internal membranes which function in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis
in cyanobacteria generally uses water as an electron donor and
produces oxygen as a by-product, though some may also use hydrogen
sulfide as occurs among other photosynthetic bacteria. Carbon dioxide
is reduced to form carbohydrates via the Calvin cycle. In most forms
the photosynthetic machinery is embedded into folds of the cell
membrane, called thylakoids. The large amounts of oxygen in the
atmosphere are considered to have been first created by the
activities of ancient cyanobacteria. Due to their ability to fix
nitrogen in aerobic conditions they are often found as symbionts with
a number of other groups of organisms such as fungi (lichens),
corals, pteridophytes (Azolla), angiosperms (Gunnera) etc.

Cyanobacteria are the only group of organisms that are able to reduce
nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions, a fact that may be
responsible for their evolutionary and ecological success. The water-
oxidizing photosynthesis is accomplished by coupling the activity of
photosystem (PS) II and I (Z-scheme). In anaerobic conditions, they
are also able to use only PS I - cyclic photophosphorylation - with
electron donors other than water (hydrogen sulfide, thiosulphate, or
even molecular hydrogen) just like purple photosynthetic bacteria.
Furthermore, they share an archaeal property, the ability to reduce
elemental sulfur by anaerobic respiration in the dark. Their
photosynthetic electron transport shares the same compartment as the
components of respiratory electron transport. Actually, their plasma
membrane contains only components of the respiratory chain, while the
thylakoid membrane hosts both respiratory and photosynthetic electron
transport.

Attached to thylakoid membrane, phycobilisomes act as light
harvesting antennae for the photosystems . The phycobilisome
components (phycobiliproteins) are responsible for the blue-green
pigmentation of most cyanobacteria. The variations to this theme is
mainly due to carotenoids and phycoerythrins which give the cells the
red-brownish coloration. In some cyanobacteria, the color of light
influences the composition of phycobilisomes. In green light, the
cells accumulate more phycoerythrin, whereas in red light they
produce more phycocyanin. Thus the bacteria appear green in red light
and red in green light. This process is known as complementary
chromatic adaptation and is a way for the cells to maximize the use
of available light for photosynthesis.

A few genera, however, lack phycobilisomes and have chlorophyll b
instead (Prochloron, Prochlorococcus, Prochlorothrix). These were
originally grouped together as the prochlorophytes or
chloroxybacteria, but appear to have developed in several different
lines of cyanobacteria. For this reason they are now considered as
part of cyanobacterial group.

[edit] Relationship to chloroplasts

Chloroplasts found in plants and algae likely evolved from an
endosymbiotic relation with cyanobacteria. This endosymbiotic theory
is supported by various structural and genetic similarities. Primary
chloroplasts are found among the green plants, where they contain
chlorophyll b, and among the red algae and glaucophytes, where they
contain phycobilins. It now appears that these chloroplasts probably
had a single origin, in an ancestor of the clade called Primoplantae.
Other algae likely took their chloroplasts from these forms by
secondary endosymbiosis or ingestion.

It was once thought that the mitochondria in eukaryotes also
developed from an endosymbiotic relationship with cyanobacteria;
however, we now suspect that this evolutionary event occurred when
aerobic Eubacteria were engulfed by anaerobic host cells.
Mitochondria are believed to have originated not from cyanobacteria
but from an ancestor of Rickettsia.

[edit] Cyanobacteria and Earth History

The biochemical capacity to use water as the source for electrons in
photosynthesis evolved once, in a common ancestor of extant
cyanobacteria. The geological record indicates that this transforming
event took place early in our planet's history, at least 2450-2320
million years ago (Ma), and possibly much earlier. Geobiological
interpretation of Archean (>2500 Ma) sedimentary rocks remains a
challenge; available evidence indicates that life existed 3500 Ma,
but the question of when oxygenic photosynthesis evolved continues to
engender debate and research. A clear paleontological window on
cyanobacterial evolution opened about 2000 Ma, revealing an already
diverse biota of blue-greens. Cyanobacteria remained principal
primary producers throughout the Proterozoic Eon (2500-543 Ma), in
part because the redox structure of the oceans favored photautotrophs
capable of nitrogen fixation. Green algae joined blue-greens as major
primary producers on continental shelves near the end of the
Proterozoic, but only with the Mesozoic (251-65 Ma) radiations of
dinoflagellates, coccolithophorids, and diatoms did primary
production in marine shelf waters take modern form. Cyanobacteria
remain critical to marine ecosystems as primary producers in oceanic
gyres, as agents of biological nitrogen fixation, and, in modified
form, as the plastids of marine algae.[4]

[edit] Cyanobacterial Evolution from Comparative Genomics

Recent high-throughput sequencing has provided DNA sequences at an
unprecedented rate, posing considerable analytical challenges, but
also offering insight into the genetic mechanisms of adaptation. Here
we present a comparative genomics-based approach towards
understanding the evolution of these mechanisms in cyanobacteria.
Historically, systematic methods of defining morphological traits in
cyanobacteria have posed a major barrier in reconstructing their true
evolutionary history. The advent of protein, then DNA, sequencing -
most notably the use of 16S rRNA as a molecular marker - helped
circumvent this barrier and now forms the basis of our understanding
of the history of life on Earth. However, these tools have proved
insufficient for resolving relationships between closely related
cyanobacterial species. The 24 cyanobacteria whose genomes have been
compared occupy a wide variety of environmental niches and play major
roles in global carbon and nitrogen cycles. By integrating
phylogenetic data inferred for hundreds to nearly 1000 protein coding
genes common to all or most cyanobacteria, we are able to reconstruct
an evolutionary history of the entire phylum, establishing a
framework for resolving how their metabolic and phenotypic diversity
came about.[4]

[edit] Classification

The cyanobacteria were traditionally classified by morphology into
five sections, referred to by the numerals I-V. The first three -
Chroococcales, Pleurocapsales, and Oscillatoriales - are not
supported by phylogenetic studies. However, the latter two -
Nostocales and Stigonematales - are monophyletic, and make up the
heterocystous cyanobacteria. The members of Chroococales are
unicellular and usually aggregated in colonies. The classic taxonomic
criterion has been the cell morphology and the plane of cell
division. In Pleurocapsales, the cells have the ability to form
internal spores (baeocytes). The rest of the sections include
filamentous species. In Oscillatorialles, the cells are uniseriately
arranged and do not form specialized cells (akinets and heterocysts).
In Nostocalles and Stigonematalles the cells have the ability to
develop heterocysts in certain conditions. Stigonematales, unlike
Nostocalles include species with truly branched trichome. Most taxa
included in the phylum or division Cyanobacteria have not yet been
validly published under the Bacteriological Code. Except:

* The classes Chroobacteria, Hormogoneae and Gloeobacteria
* The orders Chroococcales, Gloeobacterales, Nostocales,
Oscillatoriales, Pleurocapsales and Stigonematales
* The families Prochloraceae and Prochlorotrichaceae
* The genera Halospirulina, Planktothricoides, Prochlorococcus,
Prochloron, Prochlorothrix.

[edit] Biotechnology and applications

Certain cyanobacteria produce cyanotoxins like Anatoxin-a, Anatoxin-
as, Aplysiatoxin, Cylindrospermopsin, Domoic acid, Microcystin LR,
Nodularin R (from Nodularia), or Saxitoxin. Sometimes a mass-
reproduction of cyanobacteria results in algal blooms.

The unicellular cyanobacterium Synechocystis sp. PCC6803 was the
third prokaryote and first photosynthetic organism whose genome was
completely sequenced.[5] It continues to be an important model
organism.[citation needed] The smallest genomes have been found in
Prochlorococcus spp. (1.7 Mb)[6][7] and the largest in Nostoc
punctiforme (9 Mb)[8]. Those of Calothrix spp. are estimated at 12-15
Mb,[9] as large as yeast.

At least one secondary metabolite, cyanovirin, has shown to possess
anti-HIV activity.

See hypolith for an example of cyanobacteria living in extreme
conditions.

Some cyanobacteria are sold as food, notably Aphanizomenon flos-aquae
(E3live) and Arthrospira platensis (Spirulina). It has been suggested
that they could be a much more substantial part of human food
supplies, as a kind of superfood.

Along with algae, some hydrogen producing cyanobacteria are being
considered as an alternative energy source, notably at Oregon State
University, in research supported by the U.S. Department of Energy,
Princeton University, Colorado School of Mines as well as at Uppsala
University, Sweden

[edit] Health Risks

Some species of cyanobacteria produce neurotoxins, hepatotoxins,
cytotoxins, and endotoxins, making them dangerous to animals and
humans. Several cases of human poisoning have been documented but a
lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks.[3][4]

[edit] See also... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanobacteria

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
>
> How do I get rid of Cyanobacteria?
>
> The tank is about 5 weeks old, it cuycled and we have tons of
> cyanobacteria and don't know how to get rid of it.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Jodie
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24723 From: Carmen H Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
Just out of curiosity, does everyone else follow the regular 5 day
program of erythromycin for BGA? I have always gone 5 days whenever
I've had to treat but some references I've seen recommend other
regimens...
Carmen


>
> Use 1 tablet of erthomycin (250mil) for each 25 gallons of water, for FW and
> SW.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24724 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Hate to split hairs but...

On the smaller Biowheel filters the wheel is turned not by a spray but the
over flow of water exiting the filter. The high end Bio Wheel filters like the
Emperor or perhaps the newest Penguin is done by a spray bar.

As for wheels stopping, true they should not stop. When my filter intake is
clogged and the wheels slow to a stop due to me being a lazy fish keeper I
find that the wheel may get full of some detritus and become heavy on one side
and not want to spin when proper water flow has been achieved by cleaning the
filter. If I take the wheel and shake it briskly in the tank water sometimes
it will dislodge water ever has accumulated on one side of the wheel and when
I return it to it's lace in the filter it will more readily spin.

-Mike

In a message dated 11/25/2007 11:39:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dumont53@... writes:

Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after years of
heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying of water
thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is being
sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.

Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel would never
stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a defective
wheel,






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24725 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
John in Nevada said: "If you do get a 2nd filter I would get an
Accu-Clear."

I think you mean AquaClear from Hagen... right?
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm

I agree that they are one of the best HOB type filter systems out there and
they are very reasonably priced. They have a large reservoir and come with
a lot of cleanable mechanical and biological filtration media instead of
constantly trying to sell you replacement cartridges... which aren't really
necessary.

I think someone else addressed that the smaller bio-wheel systems rely on
water overflowing out of the reservoir to spin the wheel, not the spray bar
like on the bigger bio-wheel systems.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 1:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap

Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after years of
heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying of water
thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is being
sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.

Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel would never
stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a defective
wheel,

If yo do get a 2nd filter I would get and Accu-Clear. That way you would
have the best of both worlds. This is what I have done on a 75Gallon Highly
overstocked African Cichlid Tank. Overstocked but well filtered and "No
Problems".

John in Nevada

pinkvock <pinkvock@... <mailto:pinkvock%40yahoo.com> > wrote:
The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it stopped last
night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough water pushing it. It
wasn't completely dried out but I don't know how long it had been sitting
there not turning. So, I can let it dry out? Of course this morning when I
saw it had stopped the first thing I did was change out the filter
cartridge. I still had the old one sitting on top of the garbage can and it
was still wet so I stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there.
So, if I do that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up
a new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24726 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
I think the OP cleared up that this was diatoms, not BGA although it's
perfectly OK with me to continue the BGA discussion. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Carmen H
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 2:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae

Just out of curiosity, does everyone else follow the regular 5 day program
of erythromycin for BGA? I have always gone 5 days whenever I've had to
treat but some references I've seen recommend other regimens...
Carmen

>
> Use 1 tablet of erthomycin (250mil) for each 25 gallons of water, for
> FW and SW.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24727 From: Frog Dog Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Fluidized Bed Filter
Fluidized Bed Filter

Does anyone use this? Is it your only filter source? Pros and cons of
it? Does it cut down on water changes? Do you still need a protein
skimmer if you use one of these? Any information would be useful. It
says in the description, "converts ammonia and nitrites to relatively
harmless nitrates NO3" I thought staying away from Nitrates was the goal?

Thanks,
Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24728 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
Fluidized bed filters are a commercial filter, and quite large to do what they do. I am sure that some hobbyists have, or are, experimenting with this method. It will not reduce your need for water changes. Water changes are to remove nitrates as well as other compounds that are generated by inhabitants of the aquarium.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fluidized Bed Filter

Fluidized Bed Filter

Does anyone use this? Is it your only filter source? Pros and cons of
it? Does it cut down on water changes? Do you still need a protein
skimmer if you use one of these? Any information would be useful. It
says in the description, "converts ammonia and nitrites to relatively
harmless nitrates NO3" I thought staying away from Nitrates was the goal?

Thanks,
Jodie


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24729 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
Sorry I stand corrected on both issues.

It is Aqua-Clear, I have no idea where I got Accu-Clear from.

As far as the Bio Wheel goes I was under the impression they all worked the same. I know on the Emperor it is the Spray Bar. It still appears that this members problem is a water flow problem. If not a spray bar they may have some kind of blockage.

John in Nevada

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
John in Nevada said: "If you do get a 2nd filter I would get an
Accu-Clear."

I think you mean AquaClear from Hagen... right?
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm

I agree that they are one of the best HOB type filter systems out there and
they are very reasonably priced. They have a large reservoir and come with
a lot of cleanable mechanical and biological filtration media instead of
constantly trying to sell you replacement cartridges... which aren't really
necessary.

I think someone else addressed that the smaller bio-wheel systems rely on
water overflowing out of the reservoir to spin the wheel, not the spray bar
like on the bigger bio-wheel systems.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 1:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap

Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after years of
heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying of water
thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is being
sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.

Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel would never
stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a defective
wheel,

If yo do get a 2nd filter I would get and Accu-Clear. That way you would
have the best of both worlds. This is what I have done on a 75Gallon Highly
overstocked African Cichlid Tank. Overstocked but well filtered and "No
Problems".

John in Nevada

pinkvock
> wrote:
The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it stopped last
night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough water pushing it. It
wasn't completely dried out but I don't know how long it had been sitting
there not turning. So, I can let it dry out? Of course this morning when I
saw it had stopped the first thing I did was change out the filter
cartridge. I still had the old one sitting on top of the garbage can and it
was still wet so I stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there.
So, if I do that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up
a new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24730 From: William Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Geophagus as companion for Chocolate Cichlids?
What size tank is the chocolate cichlid in? Is there enough room for
another fish in there of any size?If you have enough room, why not
try to get a mate for your fish and spawn them. I am sure that you
could get some money from your local fish store or aquarium club.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Scott Schulz <swschulz@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> Looking for a companion for a Chocolate Cichlid, and several have
> recommended either Severum, Oscars(?) or fish of the Geophagus
> persuasion as possible companions.
>
> I'm thinking the Severum's and the Oscars might be a bit rough, but
the
> Geophagines seem peaceful enough. Would anyone care to comment on
any
> of the above, or have other recommendations?
>
> Thanks for any input,
>
> SWS
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24731 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
40 lashes with a stalk of Anacharis! ;-)

Only the user would know if the water flow is actually diminished out of the
water fall. If it is, then the intake tube or impeller could be partially
blocked. If the filter cartridge gets blocked, the water would overflow the
filter cartridge or out of the little semi-circular cut out next to the
intake tube. If it's going out the overflow cut out, then that would affect
the water flow volume through the water fall which would affect the
bio-wheel spin. If it's overflowing the filter cartridge, then it would
still flow through the water fall and spin the bio-wheel.

On my blog article, of my own small model bio-wheel, I show how I also block
up the semi-circular cut out to force the water through/over the filter
cartridge and bio-wheel. NOTE - You should make sure the top of the
reservoir leans into the tank so water does not overflow out the back of the
reservoir if making this modification.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap

Sorry I stand corrected on both issues.

It is Aqua-Clear, I have no idea where I got Accu-Clear from.

As far as the Bio Wheel goes I was under the impression they all worked the
same. I know on the Emperor it is the Spray Bar. It still appears that this
members problem is a water flow problem. If not a spray bar they may have
some kind of blockage.

John in Nevada

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
John in Nevada said: "If you do get a 2nd filter I would get an Accu-Clear."


I think you mean AquaClear from Hagen... right?
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm
<http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm>

I agree that they are one of the best HOB type filter systems out there and
they are very reasonably priced. They have a large reservoir and come with a
lot of cleanable mechanical and biological filtration media instead of
constantly trying to sell you replacement cartridges... which aren't really
necessary.

I think someone else addressed that the smaller bio-wheel systems rely on
water overflowing out of the reservoir to spin the wheel, not the spray bar
like on the bigger bio-wheel systems.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 1:39 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap

Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after years of
heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying of water
thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is being
sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.

Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel would never
stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a defective
wheel,

If yo do get a 2nd filter I would get and Accu-Clear. That way you would
have the best of both worlds. This is what I have done on a 75Gallon Highly
overstocked African Cichlid Tank. Overstocked but well filtered and "No
Problems".

John in Nevada

pinkvock
> wrote:
The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it stopped last
night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough water pushing it. It
wasn't completely dried out but I don't know how long it had been sitting
there not turning. So, I can let it dry out? Of course this morning when I
saw it had stopped the first thing I did was change out the filter
cartridge. I still had the old one sitting on top of the garbage can and it
was still wet so I stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish in there.
So, if I do that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go and pick up
a new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't turning
besides just being dirty.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
wrote:
>
> Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
easily?
>
> It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
completely
> stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
bacteria
> growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
tank to
> handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not overstocked.
>
> While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
wheel will
> need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
water) and
> let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
on mine
> over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
just buy a
> new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
filter
> wheel is actually damaged.
>
> Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
capacity
> so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
you
> redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
>
> As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
Some people
> use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
fish stage
> of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
while and
> it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
all of the
> N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
>
> I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
doesn't really
> "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
metals. Some of
> the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
and lot of
> other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
less and
> less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
course
> this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
to no
> avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
nearest
> shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
and you
> guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
might
> pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
bio wheel,
> this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
and I got
> the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
larger size,
> or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date: 11/24/2007
5:58 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24732 From: Poul Wehner Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
I used a Pentair Aquatics Lifeguard fluidized filter for 4
years(freshwater 66 gal).
I hung it on the side of my tank and used a powerhead to drive it.
The initial setup was tricky. The lifeguard has a valve that's
regulated by a screw. Get the flow wrong and you'll either pump the
sand right into your tank or the flow will be so low that there is no
circulation and your left with dead water in half the tube.
I found that after the initial setup I could never ever get the flow
just right again. Basically I found that after every water change it
would be a 60 minute ordeal of tiny incremental adjustments before I
could get the proper flow again.
At the time I was very much into hi-tech, complicated do-dads for my
tank. But ultimately it was a frustrating experience that drove me
back into the "simple is better" school of aquarium maintance.
As the other person said you still need to do water changes w/ a sand filter.
So my view is:

Pro: extra bio filitration, doesn't take up a whole lot of space
Con: difficult to set up, difficult to maintain, after awhile the sand
discolors and you're basically looking at a tube of fish sewage
spinning next to your tank.
And in hindsite, buying a plastic tube with sand in it for $80 bucks
isn't a good deal

Today I have a marineland 360 cannister on a 75 gallon and it's all I need.

Good luck,
Poul



On Nov 25, 2007 4:48 PM, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Fluidized Bed Filter
>
> Does anyone use this? Is it your only filter source? Pros and cons of
> it? Does it cut down on water changes? Do you still need a protein
> skimmer if you use one of these? Any information would be useful. It
> says in the description, "converts ammonia and nitrites to relatively
> harmless nitrates NO3" I thought staying away from Nitrates was the goal?
>
> Thanks,
> Jodie
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24735 From: pinkvock Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: hospital med tank
I've entertained the thought of getting a med tank. Don't have many
fish now, hope to continue in this hobby and get more. How do you
decide to get one? Would a 5gal tank be okay? We're tight on space.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24736 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae
The 250 mil tab's per 25 gallons will not interupt your bacteria bed too much . I do it every-other day for 5 treatments.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Carmen H
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 2:09 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Cyanobacteria = blue-green algae


Just out of curiosity, does everyone else follow the regular 5 day
program of erythromycin for BGA? I have always gone 5 days whenever
I've had to treat but some references I've seen recommend other
regimens...
Carmen

>
> Use 1 tablet of erthomycin (250mil) for each 25 gallons of water, for FW and
> SW.





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24737 From: William Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
That would depend on the types and sizes of the fish that you have,
if you have oscars or other larger fish then a 5 gallon tank would
be too small but if you have fish like guppies or cardinal tetras the
5 gallon tank should be large enough.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "pinkvock" <pinkvock@...> wrote:
>
> I've entertained the thought of getting a med tank. Don't have many
> fish now, hope to continue in this hobby and get more. How do you
> decide to get one? Would a 5gal tank be okay? We're tight on space.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24738 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: MONSTER FISH TANK
Look on your local Craigslist. Also check Monsterfish.com. People are
always trying to rehome big fish that outgrew their tank because they got
bad info when they bought the fish or they didn't do their homework. Also
post your own "Wanted" ad on Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org, etc.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dwight Fifer
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] MONSTER FISH TANK

HELLO ALL NEW TO GROUP WILL HAVE MONSTERFISH TANK SOON WILL POST PICS ALSO
LOOKING FOR BIGG FISH IN ILL- CHICAGO TO FOIR SELL OR FREE AND TO BE SHIPPED
TO CHICAGO IF NEED BE. LET ME KNOW IF THERE ARE ANY OUT THERE THANK YOU
ALL.ASAP

-

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007
4:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24739 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing gouramis,
2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks
ago that she is trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in
a small plastic bowl. My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the
temperature to between 75-80 degrees, can I put the goldfish in my
tank? I am also concerned about the amount of toxic waste that I read
a goldfish releases. Could that harm my fish? Some of my fish are
about eight years old, and those are my priority.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24740 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The last
thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish, especially a
goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just for
itself.

Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably sized fish.
ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2 large
catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them adequately.

You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you have
right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you have. Clown
Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish are one
of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or more since
some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.

Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do some research on your fish to find out
more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cdmail2
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility

I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing gouramis,
2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a goldfish
that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago that she is
trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small plastic bowl.
My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to between 75-80
degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned about the
amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that harm my
fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my priority.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007
4:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24741 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 11/25/2007
Subject: Re: MONSTER FISH TANK
Tank size, like many things, is all relative.

Perhaps you could share with us the size of this Monster fish tank?

A friend of mine recently spoke at an aquarium society meeting and one of
the things he said was he often has people describe to him their "BIG" 55
gallon tank. Well it is an aquarium but big in what terms? Big compared to a 5
gallon tank? That much seems obvious. My friend that gave the talk happens to
have a 2,000 gallon tomato tub for a "tank" which to me is HUGE, but it is
small next to a 10,000 gallon tank.

The reason I bring this up is you desire big fish and depending on the fish
you may get more than you can handle. Read up on the fish you consider
getting, I thought my "BIG 55" would be fine for that tiny 2 inch Pacu I bought
many years ago. Much to my surprise in a years time it needed at least a 300
gallon tank and some would justly argue a far larger tank, perhaps public
aquarium size.

Caveat Emptor,

-Mike

In a message dated 11/25/2007

Behalf Of Dwight Fifer
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] MONSTER FISH TANK

HELLO ALL NEW TO GROUP WILL HAVE MONSTERFISH TANK SOON WILL POST PICS ALSO
LOOKING FOR BIGG FISH IN ILL- CHICAGO TO FOIR SELL OR FREE AND TO BE SHIPPED
TO CHICAGO IF NEED BE. LET ME KNOW IF THERE ARE ANY OUT THERE THANK YOU
ALL.ASAP







**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24742 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Streptocephalus sirindhornae or fresh water artemia
Hi, I'm new in the group. I joined in the hope that anyone has
experience with the breeding of Streptocephalus sirindhornae or
freshwater artemia.
In some aquatic sites you can order eggs of the freshwater artemia.
The eggs are more expensive than normal saltwater artemia. I hope to
set up my own breeding culture of the sweetwater artemia in order to
lower the cost of high nutritional food for fresh fry. Has anyone
experience?
I would be happy with any uinformation.
By the way, I live in Belgium, Europ and my name is Walter.
Thanks
Walter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24743 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: joint adhesive
Hi all,
I am getting a bad skim on the SW 30g, that finished
cycling a few weeks ago. For now it is a QT, and
houses a clown and a peppermint shrimp for the DT.
Even with frequent pwc I can't get rid of it, and it
is getting worse. It is soooo ugly having a skim on an
open top.
Anyway, I have an old skimmer laying around I want to
modify for it. I bought a new powerhead for it. It
will have to be HOB since it has no sump. I lost the U
tube for the skimmer though. I will have to build one
out of PVC or something (any ideas on that) but, I
really need to know a good compound to connect the
joints. It will have to be able to hold GOOD, since
the pump is inside the tank.
Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24744 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
My catfish are five inches and seven inches so they have plenty of
room to grow and my clown loaches are 4 inches and two inches. They
all seem happy so I am not concerned that the tank is too small. If
they continue to grow, I would buy a larger tank since this is my
second one and I buy as the need arises. Based on my research most
opinions are that clown loaches need a minimum group of three, and
they appear happy and healthy so I am not concerened. I would really
like to know if the gold fish is compatibile in my tank, because I
dont think it will last long in a plastic bowl and no one else wants
him.

In particular I would like to know if the excretions of goldfish are
vastly different than the excretions of tropical fish and could
potentially hurt the tropical fish.

--
- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The
last
> thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
especially a
> goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
for
> itself.
>
> Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
sized fish.
> ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
large
> catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
adequately.
>
> You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you
have
> right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
have. Clown
> Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish
are one
> of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
more since
> some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
>
> Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do some research on your fish to
find out
> more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cdmail2
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
>
> I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
gouramis,
> 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish
> that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
that she is
> trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
plastic bowl.
> My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
between 75-80
> degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
about the
> amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
harm my
> fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
priority.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date:
11/25/2007
> 4:24 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24745 From: cdmail2 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
Hi Lenny;

I was remiss in my previous blog in not thanking u for a fast and
informative response. I tried to be a little clearer this time
around.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The
last
> thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
especially a
> goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
for
> itself.
>
> Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
sized fish.
> ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
large
> catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
adequately.
>
> You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you
have
> right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
have. Clown
> Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish
are one
> of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
more since
> some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
>
> Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do some research on your fish to
find out
> more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of cdmail2
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
>
> I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
gouramis,
> 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish
> that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
that she is
> trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
plastic bowl.
> My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
between 75-80
> degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
about the
> amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
harm my
> fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
priority.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date:
11/25/2007
> 4:24 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24746 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: joint adhesive
Hi again, I just read on another group while searching
the net. I have found several referances to gorrila
glue. It stated messy, takes long to set, but holds
solid and doesn't leach. Anyone ever use this?
thanks
--- Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...> wrote:

> Hi all,
> I am getting a bad skim on the SW 30g, that finished
> cycling a few weeks ago. For now it is a QT, and
> houses a clown and a peppermint shrimp for the DT.
> Even with frequent pwc I can't get rid of it, and it
> is getting worse. It is soooo ugly having a skim on
> an
> open top.
> Anyway, I have an old skimmer laying around I want
> to
> modify for it. I bought a new powerhead for it. It
> will have to be HOB since it has no sump. I lost the
> U
> tube for the skimmer though. I will have to build
> one
> out of PVC or something (any ideas on that) but, I
> really need to know a good compound to connect the
> joints. It will have to be able to hold GOOD, since
> the pump is inside the tank.
> Thanks
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24747 From: deberhardt85 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Home-Made Fish Food
I recently read about people's success stories in making their own fish
food. I have a large amount of Mbuna, 4 Oscars, and a convicted
murderer tank of a couple Mbuna and Jack Dempseys. Anyone have
successful recipes for home-made fish food?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24748 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> I recently read about people's success stories in making their own fish
> food. I have a large amount of Mbuna, 4 Oscars, and a convicted
> murderer tank of a couple Mbuna and Jack Dempseys. Anyone have
> successful recipes for home-made fish food?
>

Hi, I live in Belgium, Europ and I'm succesfull in culturing live foor
for my fish. I breed vinegar ales, micro and walter worms, grindal
worms, fruitflies and enchytreae. I also breed compost worms for the
bigger fish. I beleive there goes nothing above live food!!
Walter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24749 From: William Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
If you are willing to buy a larger tank for your fish then why not
just by a larger tank for the goldfish.
You do not mention what kind of catfish that you have, as some
catfish only get to be about one inch long and others can get to be
up to 15 foot long. I am sure that you do not have those that grow to
those extremes but somewhere in between. It would help to know what
kind of catfish that yo have. Also rather than waiting until the fish
grew to the size where they are overcrowded (and it has been
mentioned that you are there already) I would buy a much larger tank
now so that the fish would not become stunted. Unless you think
stunted fish are healthy. It is like making you wear the same
clothing as you had when you were young.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "cdmail2" <cdmail2@...> wrote:
>
> My catfish are five inches and seven inches so they have plenty of
> room to grow and my clown loaches are 4 inches and two inches.
They
> all seem happy so I am not concerned that the tank is too small.
If
> they continue to grow, I would buy a larger tank since this is my
> second one and I buy as the need arises. Based on my research most
> opinions are that clown loaches need a minimum group of three, and
> they appear happy and healthy so I am not concerened. I would
really
> like to know if the gold fish is compatibile in my tank, because I
> dont think it will last long in a plastic bowl and no one else
wants
> him.
>
> In particular I would like to know if the excretions of goldfish
are
> vastly different than the excretions of tropical fish and could
> potentially hurt the tropical fish.
>
> --
> - In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked.
The
> last
> > thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
> especially a
> > goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
> for
> > itself.
> >
> > Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
> sized fish.
> > ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
> large
> > catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
> adequately.
> >
> > You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish
you
> have
> > right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
> have. Clown
> > Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your
catfish
> are one
> > of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
> more since
> > some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
> >
> > Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do some research on your fish
to
> find out
> > more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of cdmail2
> > Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
> >
> > I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
> gouramis,
> > 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
> goldfish
> > that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
> that she is
> > trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
> plastic bowl.
> > My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
> between 75-80
> > degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
> about the
> > amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
> harm my
> > fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
> priority.
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date:
> 11/25/2007
> > 4:24 PM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24750 From: Zinfin Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Hi Walter,
How do you feed fruit flies to your fish? Aren't they too small? Do they fly away before getting eaten?
Zinfin

-----Original Message-----
From: "h2lo2006" <wmp@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 11/26/2007 10:02 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Home-Made Fish Food

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> I recently read about people's success stories in making their own fish
> food. I have a large amount of Mbuna, 4 Oscars, and a convicted
> murderer tank of a couple Mbuna and Jack Dempseys. Anyone have
> successful recipes for home-made fish food?
>

Hi, I live in Belgium, Europ and I'm succesfull in culturing live foor
for my fish. I breed vinegar ales, micro and walter worms, grindal
worms, fruitflies and enchytreae. I also breed compost worms for the
bigger fish. I beleive there goes nothing above live food!!
Walter
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24751 From: h2lo2006 Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
Hi,
The fruitflies I breed are specially selected. They almost cannot fly,
all they do is hopping around. Once I have a lot of them I shake them
on the surface of the water in the tank. There they wriggle and the
fish learn very fast to eat them. I keep the fruitflies for my young
and also adult killi fish. That are fish that are mostly not bigger
than a guppy. On google you can find all the information you need to
breed a culture of fruitflies (drosophila melanogaster). I think
native speakers can explain much better than I can.
If you want a starters portion, I can send you larvae of the flies, in
the mail they keep for a long time, just give them a ventilated
plastic box and in room temperature they hatch after one or two weeks.
If you want me to send some please send me your adress.
Greetings
Walter

-- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Zinfin <zinfin@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Walter,
> How do you feed fruit flies to your fish? Aren't they too small?
Do they fly away before getting eaten?
> Zinfin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "h2lo2006" <wmp@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: 11/26/2007 10:02 AM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Home-Made Fish Food
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I recently read about people's success stories in making their own
fish
> > food. I have a large amount of Mbuna, 4 Oscars, and a convicted
> > murderer tank of a couple Mbuna and Jack Dempseys. Anyone have
> > successful recipes for home-made fish food?
> >
>
> Hi, I live in Belgium, Europ and I'm succesfull in culturing live foor
> for my fish. I breed vinegar ales, micro and walter worms, grindal
> worms, fruitflies and enchytreae. I also breed compost worms for the
> bigger fish. I beleive there goes nothing above live food!!
> Walter
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24752 From: April Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: bio wheel taking a crap
I just bought a HOB filter by Rena. It uses these square shaped
containers of biochem zorb(carbon). It also has a little container
for biochem stars(like ceramic rings). So it uses chemical and
biological media. It works great!!! Might concider that. It is
also very easy to clean. Good luck!!!

April


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> 40 lashes with a stalk of Anacharis! ;-)
>
> Only the user would know if the water flow is actually diminished
out of the
> water fall. If it is, then the intake tube or impeller could be
partially
> blocked. If the filter cartridge gets blocked, the water would
overflow the
> filter cartridge or out of the little semi-circular cut out next to
the
> intake tube. If it's going out the overflow cut out, then that
would affect
> the water flow volume through the water fall which would affect the
> bio-wheel spin. If it's overflowing the filter cartridge, then it
would
> still flow through the water fall and spin the bio-wheel.
>
> On my blog article, of my own small model bio-wheel, I show how I
also block
> up the semi-circular cut out to force the water through/over the
filter
> cartridge and bio-wheel. NOTE - You should make sure the top of the
> reservoir leans into the tank so water does not overflow out the
back of the
> reservoir if making this modification.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 7:24 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Sorry I stand corrected on both issues.
>
> It is Aqua-Clear, I have no idea where I got Accu-Clear from.
>
> As far as the Bio Wheel goes I was under the impression they all
worked the
> same. I know on the Emperor it is the Spray Bar. It still appears
that this
> members problem is a water flow problem. If not a spray bar they
may have
> some kind of blockage.
>
> John in Nevada
>
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%
40gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> John in Nevada said: "If you do get a 2nd filter I would get an
Accu-Clear."
>
>
> I think you mean AquaClear from Hagen... right?
> http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm
> <http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/manuals/aquaclear03.cfm>
>
> I agree that they are one of the best HOB type filter systems out
there and
> they are very reasonably priced. They have a large reservoir and
come with a
> lot of cleanable mechanical and biological filtration media instead
of
> constantly trying to sell you replacement cartridges... which
aren't really
> necessary.
>
> I think someone else addressed that the smaller bio-wheel systems
rely on
> water overflowing out of the reservoir to spin the wheel, not the
spray bar
> like on the bigger bio-wheel systems.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 1:39 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: bio wheel taking a crap
>
> Being a Bio Wheel fan, and never really experiencing problems after
years of
> heavy use, it seems to be another problem. Since it is the spraying
of water
> thet turns the Bio Wheel, have you checked that enough water is
being
> sprayed out of the holes in the upper tube.
>
> Another possible probelm is the bracket on the side, The wheel
would never
> stop turning because of a defective wheel. I have never heard of a
defective
> wheel,
>
> If yo do get a 2nd filter I would get and Accu-Clear. That way you
would
> have the best of both worlds. This is what I have done on a
75Gallon Highly
> overstocked African Cichlid Tank. Overstocked but well filtered
and "No
> Problems".
>
> John in Nevada
>
> pinkvock
> > wrote:
> The bio wheel hasn't been spinning like it used to, and it stopped
last
> night. I thought it must be that there wasn't enough water pushing
it. It
> wasn't completely dried out but I don't know how long it had been
sitting
> there not turning. So, I can let it dry out? Of course this morning
when I
> saw it had stopped the first thing I did was change out the filter
> cartridge. I still had the old one sitting on top of the garbage
can and it
> was still wet so I stuck it back in there just now. I have 7 fish
in there.
> So, if I do that, the tank shouldn't get overwhelmed? I might go
and pick up
> a new bio wheel in case there is another reason this on isn't
turning
> besides just being dirty.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
> >
> > Is it pumping less water or is the Bio-Wheel just not spinning as
> easily?
> >
> > It's not critical that the bio-wheel spin quickly but if it
> completely
> > stops, then it would dry up but you should still have enough N-
> bacteria
> > growing in your other filter media (the cartridge) and in your
> tank to
> > handle the bioload of your tank... presuming it's not
overstocked.
> >
> > While it's not normally needed, occasionally a bio-wheel filter
> wheel will
> > need to be cleaned thoroughly (soft bristle tooth brush and hot
> water) and
> > let it dry out completely. I've had to do that a couple of times
> on mine
> > over the years to keep it spinning properly. I guess you could
> just buy a
> > new one but I don't think it's necessary unless the old bio-wheel
> filter
> > wheel is actually damaged.
> >
> > Instead of buying a bigger filter, simply get a 2nd one of similar
> capacity
> > so you have two filter systems running on your tank. This gives
> you
> > redundancy in the event one of them should ever break.
> >
> > As far as the ammo-lock, I'm not sure why you would need that.
> Some people
> > use it or other ammonia locking chemicals during the cycling with
> fish stage
> > of their new tank set up but if you've had your tank set up for a
> while and
> > it's fully cycled and you're not going to do anything to kill off
> all of the
> > N-bacteria, then those types of products are not necessary.
> >
> > I use API Tap Water Conditioner which contrary to it's name
> doesn't really
> > "condition" the water other than to dechlor and treat heavy
> metals. Some of
> > the other chemicals out there that "condition" also add aloe vera
> and lot of
> > other stuff that I don't feel is necessary in a fish tank.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> >
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> ] On
> > Behalf Of pinkvock
> > Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 10:07 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] bio wheel taking a crap
> >
> > Hey there, my penguin marineland bio wheel 150 has been pumping
> less and
> > less water despite cleaning. I ordered a new one yesterday and of
> course
> > this morning when I got up the wheel wasn't turning. umm, yuk.
> > So, the wheel is floating in there, tried cleaning the pump again
> to no
> > avail. Thinking i'm heading the hour and a half drive to the
> nearest
> > shopping mecca to get a new one pronto. I added some stress zyme,
> and you
> > guys have talked about ammo-lock. I don't have any but I thought I
> might
> > pick some up in case. I was thinking about going up a size on the
> bio wheel,
> > this one always seemed kindof weinie. I've got a 30 gallon tank,
> and I got
> > the size that was for up to 30 gal. So, should I get the next
> larger size,
> > or stay with this one, and do you have any other recommendations?
> > Incidentally I did just do a water change yesterday.
> >
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.6/1150 - Release Date:
11/24/2007
> 5:58 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24753 From: Carmen H Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Home-Made Fish Food
I also culture flightless fruit flies for my fish. Any surface
feeding small to medium fish will go crazy over them. My asst tetras,
white clouds, kribs and angels especially love them. There a good
article on them at:
http://www.doylesdartden.com/fruitfly.html
I use the power mix media...

Carmen


On Nov 26, 2007 12:52 PM, h2lo2006 <wmp@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hi,
> The fruitflies I breed are specially selected. They almost cannot fly,
> all they do is hopping around. Once I have a lot of them I shake them
> on the surface of the water in the tank. There they wriggle and the
> fish learn very fast to eat them. I keep the fruitflies for my young
> and also adult killi fish. That are fish that are mostly not bigger
> than a guppy. On google you can find all the information you need to
> breed a culture of fruitflies (drosophila melanogaster). I think
> native speakers can explain much better than I can.
> If you want a starters portion, I can send you larvae of the flies, in
> the mail they keep for a long time, just give them a ventilated
> plastic box and in room temperature they hatch after one or two weeks.
> If you want me to send some please send me your adress.
> Greetings
> Walter
>
>
> -- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Zinfin <zinfin@...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Walter,
> > How do you feed fruit flies to your fish? Aren't they too small?
> Do they fly away before getting eaten?
> > Zinfin
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: "h2lo2006" <wmp@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: 11/26/2007 10:02 AM
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Home-Made Fish Food
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I recently read about people's success stories in making their own
> fish
> > > food. I have a large amount of Mbuna, 4 Oscars, and a convicted
> > > murderer tank of a couple Mbuna and Jack Dempseys. Anyone have
> > > successful recipes for home-made fish food?
> > >
> >
> > Hi, I live in Belgium, Europ and I'm succesfull in culturing live foor
> > for my fish. I breed vinegar ales, micro and walter worms, grindal
> > worms, fruitflies and enchytreae. I also breed compost worms for the
> > bigger fish. I beleive there goes nothing above live food!!
> > Walter
> >
>
>
>
>
>



--

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24754 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
But you are falling into the catch-22 trap that many aquarists fall into.
If your tank is too small, which it is, then your fish will become stunted
(or they already are) and will not grow properly and subsequently have
health issues related to the stress from being overcrowded and stunted.

In conclusion, do not add a goldfish to your already overstocked tank. A
round bodied goldfish needs at least 30G of water per goldfish in at least a
4' long tank in order to have a chance to grow to proper size. Your tank
does not meet those minimum standards.

Further, like I said before, goldfish are cool water fish, not tropical fish
so the water temperatures will cause them stress issues or if you lower the
temp for the goldfish, the lower temp would cause stress issues for your
tropical fish. It has nothing to do with the excretions of the fish, just
that they require different water parameters.

Following are snippets from two reputable profiles on clown loaches. The
info you previously received was incorrect. You never provided the species
of the catfish so I can't tell you their minimum requirements but most
catfish grow very large although there are some dwarf and pygmy species.

http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clown-loach-chromobotia-macracanthus
This is a wonderful loach, but too large for most hobbyist aquariums.
Allowed a minimum of 75 gallons or more, young Clown Loaches thrive in
groups. They require large turnover, efficient filtration systems and
current supplied by additional power-heads, frequent water-changes and great
attention to cleanliness in the aquarium. Adults will eventually require an
aquarium measuring at least 6’ x 2’ x 2’. Even small specimens of this
species must initially be housed in an aquarium that is 4ft long as a
minimum. Anything smaller can cause these fast-swimming fish to become
stunted and stressed.

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Botia_macracanthus.html The Clown Loach
should be kept in schools of five or more fish as smaller groups do poorly.
When these fish reach 5" (13 cm), they should be moved to a considerably
larger tank measuring at least 48" (122 cm). Provide numerous hiding places
with caves, driftwood, and roots. A fine gravel bottom is needed for this
fish burrows. The tank should be well-planted and have muted lighting.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cdmail2
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 9:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility

My catfish are five inches and seven inches so they have plenty of room to
grow and my clown loaches are 4 inches and two inches. They all seem happy
so I am not concerned that the tank is too small. If they continue to grow,
I would buy a larger tank since this is my second one and I buy as the need
arises. Based on my research most opinions are that clown loaches need a
minimum group of three, and they appear happy and healthy so I am not
concerened. I would really like to know if the gold fish is compatibile in
my tank, because I dont think it will last long in a plastic bowl and no one
else wants him.

In particular I would like to know if the excretions of goldfish are vastly
different than the excretions of tropical fish and could potentially hurt
the tropical fish.

--
- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The
last
> thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
especially a
> goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
for
> itself.
>
> Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
sized fish.
> ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
large
> catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
adequately.
>
> You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you
have
> right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
have. Clown
> Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish
are one
> of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
more since
> some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
>
> Go to http://fish.mongabay.com <http://fish.mongabay.com> and do some
> research on your fish to
find out
> more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of cdmail2
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
>
> I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
gouramis,
> 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish
> that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
that she is
> trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
plastic bowl.
> My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
between 75-80
> degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
about the
> amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
harm my
> fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
priority.
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007
4:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24755 From: Rakaryan Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: Fluidized Bed Filter
Fluidized bed filters are mechanical filter. It's expensive, people use it esp. in a large pond such as koi pond.
If You use it in a saltwater aquarium, you still need to install protein skimmer.
Yes, Water changes are to remove excessive nitrates and other compounds such as debris, leaves etc. So Fluidized bed filter doesnt cut down the need for water changes.
Water changes are nedded to add mineral/micro nutrient to the aquarium/pond.


----- Original Message ----
From: Steve Szabo <steve@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 5:21:16 AM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Fluidized Bed Filter

Fluidized bed filters are a commercial filter, and quite large to do what they do. I am sure that some hobbyists have, or are, experimenting with this method. It will not reduce your need for water changes. Water changes are to remove nitrates as well as other compounds that are generated by inhabitants of the aquarium.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com [mailto:AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 4:48 PM
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Fluidized Bed Filter

Fluidized Bed Filter

Does anyone use this? Is it your only filter source? Pros and cons of
it? Does it cut down on water changes? Do you still need a protein
skimmer if you use one of these? Any information would be useful. It
says in the description, "converts ammonia and nitrites to relatively
harmless nitrates NO3" I thought staying away from Nitrates was the goal?

Thanks,
Jodie

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24756 From: Heather Vock Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
biggest fish I have are bosemani rainbowfish.


Heather Vock



---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24757 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: hospital med tank
I couldn't live without a hospital tank, and you can also use it for
quarantine and fry if it's available. Mine is 10G but I also have a 20G in
storage for emergencies. And even a 5G bucket that gets used with a filter
and heater sometimes!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Heather Vock
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 4:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: hospital med tank



biggest fish I have are bosemani rainbowfish.

Heather Vock

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24758 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
How long and wide is your 48 gallon tank? I agree with Lenny, don’t add any
fish! Especially not goldfish, if only because they need a different
temperature.



If one of your catfish is already 7 inches and you have several clown
loaches (grow to 8 inches), you need a bigger tank just for those. I seem
to remember something about twice the length of the fish for the tank’s
smallest dimension (so if your tank is 12” wide, the biggest fish you should
put in there is 6” long). Or was that three times?



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of cdmail2
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 10:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility



My catfish are five inches and seven inches so they have plenty of
room to grow and my clown loaches are 4 inches and two inches. They
all seem happy so I am not concerned that the tank is too small. If
they continue to grow, I would buy a larger tank since this is my
second one and I buy as the need arises. Based on my research most
opinions are that clown loaches need a minimum group of three, and
they appear happy and healthy so I am not concerened. I would really
like to know if the gold fish is compatibile in my tank, because I
dont think it will last long in a plastic bowl and no one else wants
him.

In particular I would like to know if the excretions of goldfish are
vastly different than the excretions of tropical fish and could
potentially hurt the tropical fish.

--
- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The
last
> thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
especially a
> goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
for
> itself.
>
> Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
sized fish.
> ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
large
> catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
adequately.
>
> You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you
have
> right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
have. Clown
> Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish
are one
> of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
more since
> some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
>
> Go to http://fish. <http://fish.mongabay.com> mongabay.com and do some
research on your fish to
find out
> more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of cdmail2
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
>
> I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
gouramis,
> 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish
> that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
that she is
> trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
plastic bowl.
> My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
between 75-80
> degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
about the
> amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
harm my
> fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
priority.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date:
11/25/2007
> 4:24 PM
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24759 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: joint adhesive
Here's a DIY overflow box that I thought about making a while back.
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_overflow.php and another link for
more ideas/information.
http://www.aquariumlife.net/projects/diy-overflow/70.asp If you need more,
Google "DIY aquarium overflow".

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 8:47 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] joint adhesive

Hi all,
I am getting a bad skim on the SW 30g, that finished cycling a few weeks
ago. For now it is a QT, and houses a clown and a peppermint shrimp for the
DT.
Even with frequent pwc I can't get rid of it, and it is getting worse. It is
soooo ugly having a skim on an open top.
Anyway, I have an old skimmer laying around I want to modify for it. I
bought a new powerhead for it. It will have to be HOB since it has no sump.
I lost the U tube for the skimmer though. I will have to build one out of
PVC or something (any ideas on that) but, I really need to know a good
compound to connect the joints. It will have to be able to hold GOOD, since
the pump is inside the tank.
Thanks


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.7/1151 - Release Date: 11/25/2007
4:24 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24760 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/26/2007
Subject: Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility
IMO, a tank should be 6-8 times longer than the longest expected adult sized
fish. 6 times longer for slow swimmers, 8 times longer for fast swimmers.
Then 1.5 to 2 times wide for turning.

Clown loaches actually grow to over 12" with reputable profiles saying 16".
The catfish are likely not the dwarf variety since they are already too big
for them to be dwarf species so they will grow to well over 12" also... and
if they are channel cats, then they need a really freaking BIG tank.

The big thing that many fish keepers fail to learn or seem to forget is that
the fish put out proportionate amounts of waste, hormones, CO2, etc., based
on their body mass, not their length. For goldfish and other "big" bodied
fish, they grow eight times in body mass for each time they double their
length. This means that a 2" goldfish is equal to eight 1" goldfish. A 4"
goldfish is equal to 64 1" goldfish. An 8" goldfish is equal in body mass
to over 500 1" goldfish. Even 30G of water, technically isn't enough water
for a single goldfish... after all, you wouldn't put 500 1" fish in a 30G
tank, would you? But with two goldfish in a 55-65G tank, they seem to do
very well and quickly grow to that 6" to 8" size for round bodied goldfish.
Long bodied goldfish need even more water since they are such big-time
swimmers.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 6:38 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility

How long and wide is your 48 gallon tank? I agree with Lenny, don’t add any
fish! Especially not goldfish, if only because they need a different
temperature.

If one of your catfish is already 7 inches and you have several clown
loaches (grow to 8 inches), you need a bigger tank just for those. I seem to
remember something about twice the length of the fish for the tank’s
smallest dimension (so if your tank is 12” wide, the biggest fish you should
put in there is 6” long). Or was that three times?

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of cdmail2
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2007 10:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: pearlscale goldfish compatibility

My catfish are five inches and seven inches so they have plenty of room to
grow and my clown loaches are 4 inches and two inches. They all seem happy
so I am not concerned that the tank is too small. If they continue to grow,
I would buy a larger tank since this is my second one and I buy as the need
arises. Based on my research most opinions are that clown loaches need a
minimum group of three, and they appear happy and healthy so I am not
concerened. I would really like to know if the gold fish is compatibile in
my tank, because I dont think it will last long in a plastic bowl and no one
else wants him.

In particular I would like to know if the excretions of goldfish are vastly
different than the excretions of tropical fish and could potentially hurt
the tropical fish.

--
- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> You may already know it but your tank is grossly overstocked. The
last
> thing you should be thinking about is adding another fish,
especially a
> goldfish that is a cool water fish and needs 30-50G of water just
for
> itself.
>
> Goldfish do not release any more waste than any other comparably
sized fish.
> ALL large bodied and big fish like your "3 clown loaches" and "2
large
> catfish" put out lots of waste also, if you are feeding them
adequately.
>
> You should probably have at least a 150G tank just for the fish you
have
> right now and that's without knowing what kind of catfish you
have. Clown
> Loaches should be kept in shoals of five or more. If your catfish
are one
> of the really BIG species, then you would need a 1,000G tank or
more since
> some catfish grow to 5' long and weigh 75 pounds or more.
>
> Go to http://fish. <http://fish.mongabay.com
> <http://fish.mongabay.com> > mongabay.com and do some
research on your fish to
find out
> more about the exact species, their needs and compatibility.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny. <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> > blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of cdmail2
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2007 11:34 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pearlscale goldfish compatibility
>
> I have a 48 gallon fish tank with 3 clown loaches, 3 kissing
gouramis,
> 2 large catfish, and one small gold algea eater. A friend has a
goldfish
> that looks like a pearlscale goldfish she bought four weeks ago
that she is
> trying to get rid of. Somehow he managed to survive in a small
plastic bowl.
> My fish tank is at 80 degrees. If I lower the temperature to
between 75-80
> degrees, can I put the goldfish in my tank? I am also concerned
about the
> amount of toxic waste that I read a goldfish releases. Could that
harm my
> fish? Some of my fish are about eight years old, and those are my
priority.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.8/1153 - Release Date: 11/26/2007
9:08 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24761 From: kobymonkey Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Hi, my name is Kris. I currently have 2 aferican clawed frogs, one
albino and one pigmented. I also have a placastomus(sp) all cramed into
a small 10 gallon tank. I just bought a used 20 gallon long tank and
will be moving them all into it by this weekend hopefully. I would like
to still keep my 10 up and running and maybe breed some feeder fish
possably guppies. Does anyone have any advice? I have never really had
any fish other than goldfish(to much amonia), zebra dennia(sp), and
other cheep walmart fish. Is breeding feeders easy of way above my head?
Also would a 10 gal be to small to have any other fish besides breeding
feeders? I also have a smaller maybe 6 gallon and a second ten. Any
ideas of what I can do with all my mess of tanks? I really only want to
start with a couple, there is so much work involved and time is a in
short supply for me right now. Thanks for your help!!!!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24762 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Hi Kris,
For starters, your plecostomus will outgrow the 20 gallon tank as well. They start out cute and little, but I've had em grow to 12 inches or so. In my opinion a ten gallon tank is plenty big enough to breed guppies, and its not science. They breed easily. As far as your other tanks go, I wouldn't mess with them if you are short in the time department.
Kristen


----- Original Message ----
From: kobymonkey <kobymonkey@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:28:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.

Hi, my name is Kris. I currently have 2 aferican clawed frogs, one
albino and one pigmented. I also have a placastomus( sp) all cramed into
a small 10 gallon tank. I just bought a used 20 gallon long tank and
will be moving them all into it by this weekend hopefully. I would like
to still keep my 10 up and running and maybe breed some feeder fish
possably guppies. Does anyone have any advice? I have never really had
any fish other than goldfish(to much amonia), zebra dennia(sp), and
other cheep walmart fish. Is breeding feeders easy of way above my head?
Also would a 10 gal be to small to have any other fish besides breeding
feeders? I also have a smaller maybe 6 gallon and a second ten. Any
ideas of what I can do with all my mess of tanks? I really only want to
start with a couple, there is so much work involved and time is a in
short supply for me right now. Thanks for your help!!!!





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24763 From: Beth Lucas Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
I have a pleco in my 50 gallon that I got as a 2 incher a few months ago,
and it’s already six inches long and quite wide. They grow fast and lose
tons of poo in your water:-)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kristen Kinzer
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few
questions.



Hi Kris,
For starters, your plecostomus will outgrow the 20 gallon tank as well. They
start out cute and little, but I've had em grow to 12 inches or so. In my
opinion a ten gallon tank is plenty big enough to breed guppies, and its not
science. They breed easily. As far as your other tanks go, I wouldn't mess
with them if you are short in the time department.
Kristen

----- Original Message ----
From: kobymonkey <kobymonkey@yahoo. <mailto:kobymonkey%40yahoo.com> com>
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:28:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few
questions.

Hi, my name is Kris. I currently have 2 aferican clawed frogs, one
albino and one pigmented. I also have a placastomus( sp) all cramed into
a small 10 gallon tank. I just bought a used 20 gallon long tank and
will be moving them all into it by this weekend hopefully. I would like
to still keep my 10 up and running and maybe breed some feeder fish
possably guppies. Does anyone have any advice? I have never really had
any fish other than goldfish(to much amonia), zebra dennia(sp), and
other cheep walmart fish. Is breeding feeders easy of way above my head?
Also would a 10 gal be to small to have any other fish besides breeding
feeders? I also have a smaller maybe 6 gallon and a second ten. Any
ideas of what I can do with all my mess of tanks? I really only want to
start with a couple, there is so much work involved and time is a in
short supply for me right now. Thanks for your help!!!!

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24764 From: mosquitokr2002 Date: 11/27/2007
Subject: Moonlight Gouramis
I have a beautiful pair of Moonlight Gouramis housed in a thirty
gallon, heavily planted community aquarium. These have to be some of
the most peaceful fish I have ever kept--and very useful as they
love to pick alga off the leaves of plants and clean up some finer
leaves that are occasssionally shed by the floating plants.

The male has always been interested in the female but he does not
really pursue her--he 'follows intently'. It is never a full on
chase like some of the other labyrinth fish I've kept and bred
(betta, paradise fish and the supposedly peaceful dwarf gourami
among others).

Last night, however, the female showed interest in the male for the
first time. Instead of swimming away into the thickets, she came
out of the plants and seemed to rub her body along the length of
his. This immediately caused a change in his behavior--and it is the
first time I've seen this. He swam three full circles around her
body, from nose to tail while she hovered in the water. While he
was doing this, his body color changed. Moonlights don't have a lot
of color, but the male has quite a little yellow on his back, fins
and feelers. However, during this courtship ritual the back half of
his body seemed much yellower while his head to his gill cover and
his back up to his dorsal fin turned a pure pearl-like white which
was catching the light so it shimmered with an iridescent blue. As
she moved off a little, he blocked her path with the side of his
body and repeated the circles. She then swam away.

The male has not built a nest so they are probably not ready to
breed. But if they were, their timing could not be worse. I will be
going away in a few weeks for the holidays and leaving them in
another's care. As trusted as this person is, I would not want to
saddle them with a tank of week-old gouramis...

Does anyone have any experience in keeping and/or breeding these
fish. I'd love to hear about it.
Tom
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24765 From: Rakaryan Date: 11/28/2007
Subject: Re: Moonlight Gouramis
Moonlight Gouramis ussualy pick small leaves of floating (riccia, cabomba etc.) then build a bubble nest in the surface.
In a community tank with other species exist, i recommend you to put them in breeder cage/nest u can buy it in a pet shop.
If the nest is in safe location (cannot be accesed by other big fish species), then it will be allright.



----- Original Message ----
From: mosquitokr2002 <mosquitokr2002@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, November 28, 2007 9:35:49 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Moonlight Gouramis

I have a beautiful pair of Moonlight Gouramis housed in a thirty
gallon, heavily planted community aquarium. These have to be some of
the most peaceful fish I have ever kept--and very useful as they
love to pick alga off the leaves of plants and clean up some finer
leaves that are occasssionally shed by the floating plants.

The male has always been interested in the female but he does not
really pursue her--he 'follows intently'. It is never a full on
chase like some of the other labyrinth fish I've kept and bred
(betta, paradise fish and the supposedly peaceful dwarf gourami
among others).

Last night, however, the female showed interest in the male for the
first time. Instead of swimming away into the thickets, she came
out of the plants and seemed to rub her body along the length of
his. This immediately caused a change in his behavior--and it is the
first time I've seen this. He swam three full circles around her
body, from nose to tail while she hovered in the water. While he
was doing this, his body color changed. Moonlights don't have a lot
of color, but the male has quite a little yellow on his back, fins
and feelers. However, during this courtship ritual the back half of
his body seemed much yellower while his head to his gill cover and
his back up to his dorsal fin turned a pure pearl-like white which
was catching the light so it shimmered with an iridescent blue. As
she moved off a little, he blocked her path with the side of his
body and repeated the circles. She then swam away.

The male has not built a nest so they are probably not ready to
breed. But if they were, their timing could not be worse. I will be
going away in a few weeks for the holidays and leaving them in
another's care. As trusted as this person is, I would not want to
saddle them with a tank of week-old gouramis...

Does anyone have any experience in keeping and/or breeding these
fish. I'd love to hear about it.
Tom





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24766 From: Nimish Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: I am now Back
Hello people,

Some of you might remember me from (i think about a year ago). Was too
busy in getting things on personal end sorted and now I am hopefully
back. Moved home.. almost fully moved office now and also planning to
setup a Marine tank :)

Regards,
Nim
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24767 From: Donna Ransome Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: I am now Back
Welcome back! I’m planning a marine too, maybe for next year. I want to
try zoos!



Still working on a planted Tang tank though, without much luck so far on the
planted part.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Nimish
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 5:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] I am now Back



Hello people,

Some of you might remember me from (i think about a year ago). Was too
busy in getting things on personal end sorted and now I am hopefully
back. Moved home.. almost fully moved office now and also planning to
setup a Marine tank :)

Regards,
Nim





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24768 From: Melissa Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: New Member
Hi all my name is Melissa. I am here looking for info on fiddler
crabs as the group I joined for them.....well obviously nobody reads
there emails!

I know the care of them as we have kept them in my store before. My
neice(going on 10) wants them for christmas and my sister gave me the
OK. MY question is, can you use playsand in their tank, or should I
stick to aquarium sand? Is there anything I should aviod in their
tank? When we had them at work, we kept them really basic, a tank
roughly 12 gallons(we kept about 4 at a time),brackish water,estes
sand, small filter, few fake plants, an area for them to come out,
and dry food. I just receantly learned they need a fresh water bowl
also.

And since they like to borrow, if I make one for them using a
container so that part of it is pressed to the side of the glass so
she can see, do you think they would even use it? I would hate for
these guys to burrow and she never see them and lose interest.

I also want to get a tank monitor, so I can set it up for an alarm to
go off so she knows when to clean the tank(or at least mom and dad).
And she is careful, they already have fish, a tiel, beardie and a
couple of dogs. And she is gentle enough to even hold my tarantula
(with my help).

Now her setup will be only 10 gallons, but she only wants 2 crabs, I
told my sister she will either get 1.1 or 0.2 as I dont want the
males to fight. Is there anything else someone could suggest to make
the tank function better? Or pictures so I can get a good idea how to
make it look nice? I hate fake tanks, all of my tanks have always
been natural, including the herps and spider....well except for my
uro, she liked to sleep in an igloo....lol dont ask. But any info,
good sites(I find alot of sights with the same repeating info on it),
whatever would b great.

~Melissa
1 dog
1 betta
2 parrots
1 beardie
1 PT tarantula
6 Cresties (1.4.1 lol for now)
and 4 crestie eggs incubating, and 4 more going to be laid in the
next few weeks.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24769 From: judy_be Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: fish tank for Corydoras
I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish tank, and they keep
having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now 20. I started
with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was thinking of a
15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider, and the same height
as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I imagine I can order
one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon is another
possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.

It would be nice to have some other kind of middle fish and I was
thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK with the catfish.

Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for the catfish? It
seems they would be easier to clean.

I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was thinking that if
I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them. I will, of
course, be transferring at least half of the old water to the new
tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter (cheesecloth??) catch
any snail egg floaters?

Thanks,
Judy and the Corys.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24770 From: Nimish Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
HI Judy,

Personally, I would go for the biggest tank you can accomodate.
Larger the tank the more stable it will be so a 20g will get my vote
over the 15 but more so a 30gallon.

Snails are something pretty difficult to eradicate. If you are going
to reuse the filter media and a part of your existing gravel in your
new tank then the snails will take a ride over it.. this also
includes ornaments etc.

It is however advisable to reuse the gravel and filter media in the
new tank as this media will already be mature and your new tank will
not undergo any cycle or mini cycle. the snail problem is very small
compared to this and having a couple of dwarf chain loaches in the
tank will make sure the snail population never over grows if not
eradicated. Dwarf chain loaches are good companions for other bottom
dwellers but they will consume corydora eggs and fry so you may not
get any more new corys.

HTH
Nim

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "judy_be" <tootsie2toes@...>
wrote:
>
> I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish tank, and they
keep
> having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now 20. I started
> with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was thinking of a
> 15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider, and the same
height
> as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I imagine I can order
> one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon is another
> possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.
>
> It would be nice to have some other kind of middle fish and I was
> thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK with the
catfish.
>
> Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for the catfish? It
> seems they would be easier to clean.
>
> I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was thinking that
if
> I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them. I will, of
> course, be transferring at least half of the old water to the new
> tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter (cheesecloth??)
catch
> any snail egg floaters?
>
> Thanks,
> Judy and the Corys.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24771 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
If you decided to go larger there are species of fish
that do eat snails, the problem is they get a bit big
for a 15 gallon tank. Like clown loaches enjoy eating
snails. Skunk loaches are known to eat them also. But
the skunk gets about 4" and the clowns 8".

Another way to catch them is stick a slice of zuchinni
in the tank, this will attract the snails and you will
find them all over it, then you can throw it out.

--- judy_be <tootsie2toes@...> wrote:

> I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish
> tank, and they keep
> having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is
> now 20. I started
> with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was
> thinking of a
> 15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider,
> and the same height
> as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I
> imagine I can order
> one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon
> is another
> possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.
>
> It would be nice to have some other kind of middle
> fish and I was
> thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK
> with the catfish.
>
> Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for
> the catfish? It
> seems they would be easier to clean.
>
> I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was
> thinking that if
> I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them.
> I will, of
> course, be transferring at least half of the old
> water to the new
> tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter
> (cheesecloth??) catch
> any snail egg floaters?
>
> Thanks,
> Judy and the Corys.
>
>
>



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24772 From: rosette55@webtv.net Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: I am now Back
welcome back Nim of course i remember you! has it really been a year?
yikes how time flies! samantha
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24773 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Hi Judy,

Your corys will appreciate the larger 20g tank. They need more ground to cover than the 15 would provide them. Also your substrate should be a fine gravel. Marbles are not a good idea. Check out any profile on the species and it can give you specifications. They are such nice fish to watch so do your best for them!! :)

Lisa

judy_be <tootsie2toes@...> wrote:
I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish tank, and they keep
having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now 20. I started
with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was thinking of a
15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider, and the same height
as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I imagine I can order
one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon is another
possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.

It would be nice to have some other kind of middle fish and I was
thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK with the catfish.

Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for the catfish? It
seems they would be easier to clean.

I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was thinking that if
I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them. I will, of
course, be transferring at least half of the old water to the new
tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter (cheesecloth??) catch
any snail egg floaters?

Thanks,
Judy and the Corys.






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24774 From: Angela Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: New member
Hello! I am new here today and just wanted to say hi and ask a few questions
I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank, gravel bottom, fake plants, regular
heater, whisper 60 filter, flourescent lights. I have had saltwater fish for
a long time and got out of it about a year ago because I just don't have the
time a reef tank takes anymore. I had freshwater fish through my whole
childhood so I decided to go with some of the smaller fish I had kept back
then. Problem is.. Nothing lives, with the exception of the Rafael catfish
and the silver dollar. We wanted guppies and it worked initially. They even
had a few litters of babies, many of which lived about 4 months before
disappearing. I have also tried cardinal tetras. Over the past year we have
put about 20 guppies, 15 cardinal tetras, an albino loach and 3 dwarf frogs
in the tank. The only remaining living fish are 1 cardinal and 1 male guppy
as well as the silver dollar and the Rafael cat. The cat hides 99.9% of the
time so I'm fairly confident he's not bothering anyone. The silver dollar is
at this point rather large, but I don't think he's bothering anyone either.
I have never seen him go after any of the fish. He seems to have his one
spot he likes and that's mostly where he stays. I've had people say he's
probably doing it at night, but I'm frequently up at all hours and I've
still never seen him doing anything aggressive. Most of the fish disappear
within 24 hours of arrival. Sometimes I find a body, usually I do not. When
I have found bodies they are not normally chewed up. I have checked in the
filter as well and they don't seem to be getting sucked up the intake either
My temp is stable, ph is stable, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia are in the
normal range. This tank was used for Oscars prior to my owning it and that's
all that has ever been in it. I do clean the tank every 4-6 weeks as it
grows a lot of algae. I think this is caused by the large windows and high
light level in my living room. I'm really at a loss what the problem is here
Any advice or suggestions of what might be going on? Thank you!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24775 From: Stacey Riga Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Personally, I would get the largest tank possible you
can handle.
You can pick used one's up CHEAP. Keep an eye in your
paper, and check Craigslist for aquariums in your
area. My husband may be relocating. I am thinking of
selling my tank if we move, so I can buy a bigger one
off of Craigslist when I get there ;)
I have a 75g, but boy I want a 120 so bad!!! LOL
Your LFS will probably take some of the cory's off
your hands if it gets too out of hand.
Good luck, and happy swimming~

--- Lisa Rambo <canineclara@...> wrote:

> Hi Judy,
>
> Your corys will appreciate the larger 20g tank.
> They need more ground to cover than the 15 would
> provide them. Also your substrate should be a fine
> gravel. Marbles are not a good idea. Check out any
> profile on the species and it can give you
> specifications. They are such nice fish to watch so
> do your best for them!! :)
>
> Lisa
>
> judy_be <tootsie2toes@...> wrote:
> I only have albino corydoras in my
> 10-gallon fish tank, and they keep
> having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now
> 20. I started
> with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was
> thinking of a
> 15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider,
> and the same height
> as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I
> imagine I can order
> one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon
> is another
> possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.
>
> It would be nice to have some other kind of middle
> fish and I was
> thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK
> with the catfish.
>
> Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for
> the catfish? It
> seems they would be easier to clean.
>
> I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was
> thinking that if
> I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them.
> I will, of
> course, be transferring at least half of the old
> water to the new
> tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter
> (cheesecloth??) catch
> any snail egg floaters?
>
> Thanks,
> Judy and the Corys.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be who you are and say what you feel,
> because those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind.
> -Dr. Seuss
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make
> Yahoo! your homepage.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24776 From: Shirley Reichard Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Goldie listing to her sides and sitting on bottom a lot
My common goldie has been having a problem for about three days now --
when she swims slowly, she leans to either side. Today she's been
spending a lot of time on the bottom of the tank, and right now is
almost lying on her side. If disturbed, she will immediately become
alert and upright, and move. She has no trouble getting to the
surface. I guessed it's a swim bladder issue and have done some
searching online, but doesn't seem to be much one can do about it.
There are no signs of disease, and she is eating. In the event it's
constipation, I've been feeding her peas (in addition to the morning
flake food); one site suggested not feeding at all for two or three
days. I tested the water a few days ago and everything was high,
except for the pH which was too low. I did a 50% water change, and
added something from the LFS to up the pH. The web sites I visited
say that a bacterial infection or parasites could cause swim bladder
problems. I have Melafix and Aquari-sol on hand; should I try one of
those, or is there something else you could recommend, even though
there's no sign of disease?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24777 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: Goldie listing to her sides and sitting on bottom a lot
When you say "everything was high", I'm presuming you mean ammonia, nitrite
and nitrate. This means you have a water quality issue which will cause
fish to become stressed and suffer immune system problems so minor bacteria
that they would normally deal with can now become a problem.

Doing a single 50% PWC is not going to fix your issue and you should almost
never do a large PWC like that at one time as it can change the water
parameters too much, too fast and can cause more harm than good with osmotic
stress issues.

Whenever you or anyone else has "bad water" due to lack of frequent PWC's,
you should do a series of 3-4 25% PWC's, one every couple of hours, which
will bring the tank back to good condition while slowly changing the water
parameters so the fish can acclimate properly.

Since you have a common goldfish, you should have a very BIG tank, over 55G
and preferably in the 100G+ range... or a pond. If you have it in a smaller
tank, you will have constant water quality issues due to the size of the
fish. A full grown goldfish is equal in body mass to over 500 1" goldfish.
If your tank isn't big enough for hundreds of 1" fish, then it's not big
enough for a single full grown goldfish.

If you haven't read this formula yet, I'll repeat it. A goldfish (and most
other large body fish) grows eight times in body mass for each time it
doubles its length. A 2" goldfish is equal to eight 1" goldfish. A 4"
goldfish is equal to 64 1" goldfish. A 6" goldfish is equal to over 200 1"
goldfish. An 8" goldfish is equal to over 500 1" goldfish.

Now for treatment, continue feeding only green pea "meat", that is squeezing
the pea "meat" out and discarding the skin. I use frozen peas but some
people use no-sodium canned peas. If you haven't done so, do a series of
four 25% PWC's to get the water in good condition. Do filter
maintenance/cleaning per the article in my blog. Treat the tank with
MelaFix for one week as prescribed and you may have to repeat this
treatment.

Tell us the size of your tank and your fish. You may be able to get by
temporarily with your set up but you may have to increase the frequency of
25% PWC's but I need your tank size and fish size to know how frequent.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 4:44 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Goldie listing to her sides and sitting on bottom a
lot

My common goldie has been having a problem for about three days now -- when
she swims slowly, she leans to either side. Today she's been spending a lot
of time on the bottom of the tank, and right now is almost lying on her
side. If disturbed, she will immediately become alert and upright, and move.
She has no trouble getting to the surface. I guessed it's a swim bladder
issue and have done some searching online, but doesn't seem to be much one
can do about it.
There are no signs of disease, and she is eating. In the event it's
constipation, I've been feeding her peas (in addition to the morning flake
food); one site suggested not feeding at all for two or three days. I tested
the water a few days ago and everything was high, except for the pH which
was too low. I did a 50% water change, and added something from the LFS to
up the pH. The web sites I visited say that a bacterial infection or
parasites could cause swim bladder problems. I have Melafix and Aquari-sol
on hand; should I try one of those, or is there something else you could
recommend, even though there's no sign of disease?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.9/1158 - Release Date: 11/28/2007
9:11 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24778 From: Steve Szabo Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: New member
Firstly, you really need to be doing water changes weekly.

Secondly, you need to give us your water parameters. We need to know
your pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature measurements at the
least.

Your loss of fish is unlikely to be caused by the rapheal or the silver
dollar. There is another reason for the losses, and you simply have not
given us enough information to start looking into possible causes.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Angela
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 1:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New member

Hello! I am new here today and just wanted to say hi and ask a few
questions
I have a 55 gallon freshwater tank, gravel bottom, fake plants, regular
heater, whisper 60 filter, flourescent lights. I have had saltwater fish
for
a long time and got out of it about a year ago because I just don't have
the
time a reef tank takes anymore. I had freshwater fish through my whole
childhood so I decided to go with some of the smaller fish I had kept
back
then. Problem is.. Nothing lives, with the exception of the Rafael
catfish
and the silver dollar. We wanted guppies and it worked initially. They
even
had a few litters of babies, many of which lived about 4 months before
disappearing. I have also tried cardinal tetras. Over the past year we
have
put about 20 guppies, 15 cardinal tetras, an albino loach and 3 dwarf
frogs
in the tank. The only remaining living fish are 1 cardinal and 1 male
guppy
as well as the silver dollar and the Rafael cat. The cat hides 99.9% of
the
time so I'm fairly confident he's not bothering anyone. The silver
dollar is
at this point rather large, but I don't think he's bothering anyone
either.
I have never seen him go after any of the fish. He seems to have his one
spot he likes and that's mostly where he stays. I've had people say he's
probably doing it at night, but I'm frequently up at all hours and I've
still never seen him doing anything aggressive. Most of the fish
disappear
within 24 hours of arrival. Sometimes I find a body, usually I do not.
When
I have found bodies they are not normally chewed up. I have checked in
the
filter as well and they don't seem to be getting sucked up the intake
either
My temp is stable, ph is stable, nitrites, nitrates and ammonia are in
the
normal range. This tank was used for Oscars prior to my owning it and
that's
all that has ever been in it. I do clean the tank every 4-6 weeks as it
grows a lot of algae. I think this is caused by the large windows and
high
light level in my living room. I'm really at a loss what the problem is
here
Any advice or suggestions of what might be going on? Thank you!
Angela
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24779 From: Beth Lucas Date: 11/29/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Wow! 20 in a 10 gallon! I am amazed, you must clean all the time. Walmart
has a new 18 gallon that is pretty cheap, but even that sounds close for so
many of those critters:-) But if you clean a lot, that could be OK, I am not
a catfish or corydora person. They are cute tho…



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of judy_be
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 8:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] fish tank for Corydoras



I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish tank, and they keep
having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now 20. I started
with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was thinking of a
15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider, and the same height
as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I imagine I can order
one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon is another
possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.

It would be nice to have some other kind of middle fish and I was
thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK with the catfish.

Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for the catfish? It
seems they would be easier to clean.

I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was thinking that if
I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them. I will, of
course, be transferring at least half of the old water to the new
tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter (cheesecloth??) catch
any snail egg floaters?

Thanks,
Judy and the Corys.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24780 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Aquarium
Hi All,

I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on the
middle seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it or
I think I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man
said it was 55 gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to
print the plans for making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that
ok, Lenny?) and have my nephew make the stand for me. Then when
all that is ready I'll start the cycling process. Any one have any advice
for me on getting started and maybe how to build a lid? I'd appreciate
the help.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24781 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: fish tank for Corydoras
Personally with that many cats I would still opt to go
bigger than a 18 gallon. And as someone said, check
the paper, craigslist, ebay, trading post, heck even
the pet stores people hang adds up for old tanks. I
would ry going for a 30 if you want a nice size for
your group, a 40 or larger would be even better. And
with a larger tank, then work load is actually a
little easier, larger tanks are almost always easier
to maintain, then you can get a better selection of
fishes to go in there with them. You should look into
rainbows, they are a neat group, some are really small
like the celibese (ok I dont think thats spelled
right).

~Melissa

--- Beth Lucas <bethmlucas@...> wrote:

> Wow! 20 in a 10 gallon! I am amazed, you must clean
> all the time. Walmart
> has a new 18 gallon that is pretty cheap, but even
> that sounds close for so
> many of those critters:-) But if you clean a lot,
> that could be OK, I am not
> a catfish or corydora person. They are cute tho…
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of judy_be
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2007 8:40 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] fish tank for Corydoras
>
>
>
> I only have albino corydoras in my 10-gallon fish
> tank, and they keep
> having babies. I just got 3 more, so my total is now
> 20. I started
> with 3! I would like to get a bigger tank and was
> thinking of a
> 15-gallon. It is 4 inches longer, 2 inches wider,
> and the same height
> as the 10 (12 inches). I cannot find one but I
> imagine I can order
> one somewhere. I know they exist. A long 20 gallon
> is another
> possibility, although I would prefer the smaller 15.
>
> It would be nice to have some other kind of middle
> fish and I was
> thinking of neon tetras. I assume they would be OK
> with the catfish.
>
> Would marbles be a good substitute for gravel for
> the catfish? It
> seems they would be easier to clean.
>
> I also have a huge problem with small snails. I was
> thinking that if
> I get another tank, I may be able to eliminate them.
> I will, of
> course, be transferring at least half of the old
> water to the new
> tank. Would straining it in some kind of filter
> (cheesecloth??) catch
> any snail egg floaters?
>
> Thanks,
> Judy and the Corys.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24782 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
No problem with printing my DIY stand plans. That's why I put them and the
pictures on my blog.

A simple DIY lid is to cut one or two pieces of plexiglass to fit inside the
top frame. You can also cut out the notches needed for plumbing, wiring,
HOB filter, etc. Then get an inexpensive shop light from your local big box
home improvement store for under $20.00 (or spend more for something
fancier) and you are good to go.

Using the formula LxWxD/231=Gallons, your tank is 49.8 gallons. That could
be a 55G since the manufacturers almost always round them up to a larger
size. I know the footprint of a 55G is 48x12 so it likely is a 55G but it's
always good for you to know it's actually more like 50G or less once you add
substrate, decorations, etc. Could it be 21 inches deep? That would make
it 52.3 gallons. They figure the volume out as all the way to the top of
the frame even though we never fill the tanks up that high.

Here's a easy to understand "Fishless Cycle" page
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html and if
you have another healthy tank, you could use a piece of the filter media
from that tank to seed the new tank and then your "Fishless Cycle" (with
plain ammonia) would probably cycle in under two weeks.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium

Hi All,

I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on the middle
seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it or I think
I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man said it was 55
gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to print the plans for
making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that ok, Lenny?) and have my
nephew make the stand for me. Then when all that is ready I'll start the
cycling process. Any one have any advice for me on getting started and maybe
how to build a lid? I'd appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
8:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24783 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Thanks Lenny. I was thinking Plexiglas would work well for the lid.
The only thing I was worried about was warping. I had a light for the
2 1/2 gallon the dwarf puffer was in (he's now in a 5 gallon) and the
light warped the lid. Maybe a more durable grade wouldn't have that
problem.

I'm pretty sure the depth was 20 inches. I measured to the lip. It was
at 5:00 am though and I'm not really a morning person so I could have
been off. I originally wanted to put goldfish in this tank but I think I'll
go ahead with tropical so as to ease some of the overstocking issues
I've had with the molly fry. I would also like to add a red tail shark if
they are compatible. I'll have to read up on them.

I was planning on seeding the new tank from two tanks I will be breaking
down to make room for the big one. They are both healthy and have been
running for a year or so now. After that completes the cycling then I'll
add the fish. Two weeks isn't long at all to wait so I'll just keep an eye
on the parameters and go from there. Is that good?

Thanks again, Lenny. I appreciate your patience in educating me.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Fri 11/30/2007 9:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium



No problem with printing my DIY stand plans. That's why I put them and the
pictures on my blog.

A simple DIY lid is to cut one or two pieces of plexiglass to fit inside the
top frame. You can also cut out the notches needed for plumbing, wiring,
HOB filter, etc. Then get an inexpensive shop light from your local big box
home improvement store for under $20.00 (or spend more for something
fancier) and you are good to go.

Using the formula LxWxD/231=Gallons, your tank is 49.8 gallons. That could
be a 55G since the manufacturers almost always round them up to a larger
size. I know the footprint of a 55G is 48x12 so it likely is a 55G but it's
always good for you to know it's actually more like 50G or less once you add
substrate, decorations, etc. Could it be 21 inches deep? That would make
it 52.3 gallons. They figure the volume out as all the way to the top of
the frame even though we never fill the tanks up that high.

Here's a easy to understand "Fishless Cycle" page
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html and if
you have another healthy tank, you could use a piece of the filter media
from that tank to seed the new tank and then your "Fishless Cycle" (with
plain ammonia) would probably cycle in under two weeks.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium

Hi All,

I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on the middle
seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it or I think
I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man said it was 55
gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to print the plans for
making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that ok, Lenny?) and have my
nephew make the stand for me. Then when all that is ready I'll start the
cycling process. Any one have any advice for me on getting started and maybe
how to build a lid? I'd appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Traci



Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
8:32 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<s((((><.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸<s((((><¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..<s((((><·´Z`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24784 From: iluvpetfish Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: In Response to Angela
Hello, without knowing your water chemistry values as of yet, I would
try to contact the original owner if at all possible and inquire about
the substrate possibly being optimized for cichlids?? Your ph level
could be high if your substrate is a specialized cichlid formula.If it
is replace it asap. Oh, As you are aware, you might also think about
relocating your tank away from your window.(should ease maintenance).

=)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24785 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
I need ideas for good algae eaters in my 44 gal. I only have 1 good
size Otocinclus and a baby Oto. I think I need either a couple more
Oto's or some type of pleco that stays smallish. Someone suggested
either a bushynose or bristlenose pleco before. But I see they still
can get to 6 inches or so. Do you think a group of Oto's can do the
job??? And what about those algae eating shrimp? And, I've had an
explosion of those tiny conical shape snails. I think someone
suggested a chain loach? Is that right? I'll have to research those.
Do they stay small?
Lisa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24786 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
Did you have incandescent lights or fluorescent? I have plexiglass on my
65G with twin tube fluorescent lighting and the only part of the lighting
that gets warm is the top where the ballast is located. The bulbs
themselves stay cool to the touch. Even though it's called plexiglass, it's
really only clear plastic... but I guess plexiglass sounds better for
marketing purposes. LOL

On one of my el cheapo 10G tanks a long time ago, I did have the
incandescent tubular bulbs and they did get hot enough to actually melt the
black plastic lid that came with the tank.

The top tank frame should have a middle support bar going across the top so
if you go with the shop light fluorescent light fixture, it should rest on
the ends and middle so little or no weight should be on the plexiglass.

Oh yeah.. I forgot to mention that it's a good idea to drill a hole in the
front of the plexiglass which can be used for feeding and lifting the
plexiglass when you need to do tank maintenance.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium

Thanks Lenny. I was thinking Plexiglas would work well for the lid.
The only thing I was worried about was warping. I had a light for the
2 1/2 gallon the dwarf puffer was in (he's now in a 5 gallon) and the light
warped the lid. Maybe a more durable grade wouldn't have that problem.

I'm pretty sure the depth was 20 inches. I measured to the lip. It was at
5:00 am though and I'm not really a morning person so I could have been off.
I originally wanted to put goldfish in this tank but I think I'll go ahead
with tropical so as to ease some of the overstocking issues I've had with
the molly fry. I would also like to add a red tail shark if they are
compatible. I'll have to read up on them.

I was planning on seeding the new tank from two tanks I will be breaking
down to make room for the big one. They are both healthy and have been
running for a year or so now. After that completes the cycling then I'll add
the fish. Two weeks isn't long at all to wait so I'll just keep an eye on
the parameters and go from there. Is that good?

Thanks again, Lenny. I appreciate your patience in educating me.

Traci


Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> on
behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Fri 11/30/2007 9:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium

No problem with printing my DIY stand plans. That's why I put them and the
pictures on my blog.

A simple DIY lid is to cut one or two pieces of plexiglass to fit inside the
top frame. You can also cut out the notches needed for plumbing, wiring, HOB
filter, etc. Then get an inexpensive shop light from your local big box home
improvement store for under $20.00 (or spend more for something
fancier) and you are good to go.

Using the formula LxWxD/231=Gallons, your tank is 49.8 gallons. That could
be a 55G since the manufacturers almost always round them up to a larger
size. I know the footprint of a 55G is 48x12 so it likely is a 55G but it's
always good for you to know it's actually more like 50G or less once you add
substrate, decorations, etc. Could it be 21 inches deep? That would make it
52.3 gallons. They figure the volume out as all the way to the top of the
frame even though we never fill the tanks up that high.

Here's a easy to understand "Fishless Cycle" page
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
<http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html> and if
you have another healthy tank, you could use a piece of the filter media
from that tank to seed the new tank and then your "Fishless Cycle" (with
plain ammonia) would probably cycle in under two weeks.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:11 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium

Hi All,

I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on the middle
seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it or I think
I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man said it was 55
gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to print the plans for
making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that ok, Lenny?) and have my
nephew make the stand for me. Then when all that is ready I'll start the
cycling process. Any one have any advice for me on getting started and maybe
how to build a lid? I'd appreciate the help.

Thanks,
Traci

Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
8:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24787 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Your 44G isn't large enough for clown loaches, which grow to over 12" and
should be kept in groups of five or more anyhow so a really big tank is
recommended for clown loaches. A BN pleco would be OK for a 44G tank,
depending on what else is in it, but if I'm not mistaken, Oto's should be in
shoals also so you should first increase the group size of your Oto's and
then see how things go, along with the other things recommended below.

You need to work on diminishing the nutrients that feed the algae which
would then take away the excess food from the snails and they'll stop or
slow down their reproduction. Snails are opportunistic and will usually
only breed like crazy when there is plenty of food around. Start vacuuming
your gravel more frequently while simultaneously doing more frequent PWC's.
This will clean up the excess uneaten food in the gravel and lower the
nitrate levels in your tank. Cut your lighting back to 6-8 hours a day
unless you have plants that require more lighting. These steps will cause
the algae to die back over time.

Use a scraper to scrape the algae off of 3 of the four panes. I leave it on
my back pane. If you scrape the algae off of all the panes, it will likely
grow back on all the panes. By leaving it on one, the remaining algae will
eat the nitrates that are still present after you've done your more frequent
PWC's/gravel vacuuming. The remaining snails will work on that one pane of
algae and eventually the snails and algae will both die off or drastically
diminish until you don't have to think about adding more fish to handle
things that don't need to be there in the first place.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 6:46 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.

I need ideas for good algae eaters in my 44 gal. I only have 1 good size
Otocinclus and a baby Oto. I think I need either a couple more Oto's or some
type of pleco that stays smallish. Someone suggested either a bushynose or
bristlenose pleco before. But I see they still can get to 6 inches or so. Do
you think a group of Oto's can do the job??? And what about those algae
eating shrimp? And, I've had an explosion of those tiny conical shape
snails. I think someone suggested a chain loach? Is that right? I'll have to
research those.
Do they stay small?
Lisa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date: 11/29/2007
8:32 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24788 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
If you are seeding the tank from two other tanks then you need to
feed the bacteria, either with pure ammonia or with fish. I would not
waite to put fish in after you seed the tan as as you put enough of
the bacteria loaded material into the new tank.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Swatek-Rice, Traci" <t-
swatek@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Lenny. I was thinking Plexiglas would work well for the lid.
> The only thing I was worried about was warping. I had a light for
the
> 2 1/2 gallon the dwarf puffer was in (he's now in a 5 gallon) and
the
> light warped the lid. Maybe a more durable grade wouldn't have that
> problem.
>
> I'm pretty sure the depth was 20 inches. I measured to the lip. It
was
> at 5:00 am though and I'm not really a morning person so I could
have
> been off. I originally wanted to put goldfish in this tank but I
think I'll
> go ahead with tropical so as to ease some of the overstocking issues
> I've had with the molly fry. I would also like to add a red tail
shark if
> they are compatible. I'll have to read up on them.
>
> I was planning on seeding the new tank from two tanks I will be
breaking
> down to make room for the big one. They are both healthy and have
been
> running for a year or so now. After that completes the cycling then
I'll
> add the fish. Two weeks isn't long at all to wait so I'll just keep
an eye
> on the parameters and go from there. Is that good?
>
> Thanks again, Lenny. I appreciate your patience in educating me.
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> Hazmat Technician
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Lenny V. aka
GoldLenny
> Sent: Fri 11/30/2007 9:00 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium
>
>
>
> No problem with printing my DIY stand plans. That's why I put
them and the
> pictures on my blog.
>
> A simple DIY lid is to cut one or two pieces of plexiglass to fit
inside the
> top frame. You can also cut out the notches needed for plumbing,
wiring,
> HOB filter, etc. Then get an inexpensive shop light from your
local big box
> home improvement store for under $20.00 (or spend more for something
> fancier) and you are good to go.
>
> Using the formula LxWxD/231=Gallons, your tank is 49.8 gallons.
That could
> be a 55G since the manufacturers almost always round them up to a
larger
> size. I know the footprint of a 55G is 48x12 so it likely is a 55G
but it's
> always good for you to know it's actually more like 50G or less
once you add
> substrate, decorations, etc. Could it be 21 inches deep? That
would make
> it 52.3 gallons. They figure the volume out as all the way to the
top of
> the frame even though we never fill the tanks up that high.
>
> Here's a easy to understand "Fishless Cycle" page
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
and if
> you have another healthy tank, you could use a piece of the filter
media
> from that tank to seed the new tank and then your "Fishless Cycle"
(with
> plain ammonia) would probably cycle in under two weeks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:11 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on
the middle
> seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it
or I think
> I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man said
it was 55
> gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to print the
plans for
> making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that ok, Lenny?) and
have my
> nephew make the stand for me. Then when all that is ready I'll
start the
> cycling process. Any one have any advice for me on getting started
and maybe
> how to build a lid? I'd appreciate the help.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> Hazmat Technician
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date:
11/29/2007
> 8:32 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
thanks.
> ·´Z`·.¸¸.><((((s>.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸><((((s> ¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..><
((((s>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original
message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old
subject)" <-
> <s((((><.·´Z`·.¸¸.·´Z`·.¸<s((((><¸.·´Z`·.¸. , .·´Z`·..<s
((((><·´Z`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24789 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
Those conical snails are trumpet snails that dig through the gravel
and are not usually eaten by loaches because the shells are thicker
and they have a door that they can close up for protection. Just feed
the tank less and do more gravel vacuuming. They are good to have in
your tank because they will eat food that has gotten into the gravel
and also they ace like earthworms in that they will keep the gravel
loose and allow oxygen into the gravel for plant roots.





--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lisa Rambo" <canineclara@...>
wrote:
>
> I need ideas for good algae eaters in my 44 gal. I only have 1
good
> size Otocinclus and a baby Oto. I think I need either a couple
more
> Oto's or some type of pleco that stays smallish. Someone suggested
> either a bushynose or bristlenose pleco before. But I see they
still
> can get to 6 inches or so. Do you think a group of Oto's can do
the
> job??? And what about those algae eating shrimp? And, I've had an
> explosion of those tiny conical shape snails. I think someone
> suggested a chain loach? Is that right? I'll have to research
those.
> Do they stay small?
> Lisa
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24790 From: William Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium
I have used glass that is cut into two parts to comer the whole tank.
I used silicon to make a hinge where the two pieces come together.
You can also put a gob of silicon for the Handel or even put
something in the silicon for a better handle.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Did you have incandescent lights or fluorescent? I have plexiglass
on my
> 65G with twin tube fluorescent lighting and the only part of the
lighting
> that gets warm is the top where the ballast is located. The bulbs
> themselves stay cool to the touch. Even though it's called
plexiglass, it's
> really only clear plastic... but I guess plexiglass sounds better
for
> marketing purposes. LOL
>
> On one of my el cheapo 10G tanks a long time ago, I did have the
> incandescent tubular bulbs and they did get hot enough to actually
melt the
> black plastic lid that came with the tank.
>
> The top tank frame should have a middle support bar going across
the top so
> if you go with the shop light fluorescent light fixture, it should
rest on
> the ends and middle so little or no weight should be on the
plexiglass.
>
> Oh yeah.. I forgot to mention that it's a good idea to drill a hole
in the
> front of the plexiglass which can be used for feeding and lifting
the
> plexiglass when you need to do tank maintenance.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 12:16 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium
>
> Thanks Lenny. I was thinking Plexiglas would work well for the lid.
> The only thing I was worried about was warping. I had a light for
the
> 2 1/2 gallon the dwarf puffer was in (he's now in a 5 gallon) and
the light
> warped the lid. Maybe a more durable grade wouldn't have that
problem.
>
> I'm pretty sure the depth was 20 inches. I measured to the lip. It
was at
> 5:00 am though and I'm not really a morning person so I could have
been off.
> I originally wanted to put goldfish in this tank but I think I'll
go ahead
> with tropical so as to ease some of the overstocking issues I've
had with
> the molly fry. I would also like to add a red tail shark if they are
> compatible. I'll have to read up on them.
>
> I was planning on seeding the new tank from two tanks I will be
breaking
> down to make room for the big one. They are both healthy and have
been
> running for a year or so now. After that completes the cycling then
I'll add
> the fish. Two weeks isn't long at all to wait so I'll just keep an
eye on
> the parameters and go from there. Is that good?
>
> Thanks again, Lenny. I appreciate your patience in educating me.
>
> Traci
>
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> Hazmat Technician
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> on
> behalf of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> Sent: Fri 11/30/2007 9:00 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Aquarium
>
> No problem with printing my DIY stand plans. That's why I put them
and the
> pictures on my blog.
>
> A simple DIY lid is to cut one or two pieces of plexiglass to fit
inside the
> top frame. You can also cut out the notches needed for plumbing,
wiring, HOB
> filter, etc. Then get an inexpensive shop light from your local big
box home
> improvement store for under $20.00 (or spend more for something
> fancier) and you are good to go.
>
> Using the formula LxWxD/231=Gallons, your tank is 49.8 gallons.
That could
> be a 55G since the manufacturers almost always round them up to a
larger
> size. I know the footprint of a 55G is 48x12 so it likely is a 55G
but it's
> always good for you to know it's actually more like 50G or less
once you add
> substrate, decorations, etc. Could it be 21 inches deep? That would
make it
> 52.3 gallons. They figure the volume out as all the way to the top
of the
> frame even though we never fill the tanks up that high.
>
> Here's a easy to understand "Fishless Cycle" page
> http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html
> <http://www.aquatic-
hobbyist.com/profiles/misc/fishlesscycling.html> and if
> you have another healthy tank, you could use a piece of the filter
media
> from that tank to seed the new tank and then your "Fishless Cycle"
(with
> plain ammonia) would probably cycle in under two weeks.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 8:11 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Aquarium
>
> Hi All,
>
> I was just given an aquarium and am so excited. It has a leak on
the middle
> seam but I'll be able to fix that. I have to find a lid to fit it
or I think
> I can even make one if need be. It is 48x12x20 deep. The man said
it was 55
> gallons but it looks bigger than that. I am going to print the
plans for
> making your own stand from Lenny's blog (is that ok, Lenny?) and
have my
> nephew make the stand for me. Then when all that is ready I'll
start the
> cycling process. Any one have any advice for me on getting started
and maybe
> how to build a lid? I'd appreciate the help.
>
> Thanks,
> Traci
>
> Traci Swatek-Rice
> Hazmat Technician
> DMOS5 manufacturing
> Texas Instruments
> <>< <>< <>< <>< <><
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.10/1160 - Release Date:
11/29/2007
> 8:32 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24791 From: Melissa Walker Date: 11/30/2007
Subject: Re: algae eater sugg. for 44 gal.
I agree, from what I have read, these guys are great
for planted tanks due to the fact they do not normally
destroy plants as most other snails do, and they
bulldose through the gravel keeping it cleaner, and
thats a big bonus if you have an under gravel filter,
they will keep it in balance well.

I love the little octo, and I think they are fantastic
algae eaters and they also bottom feed. The only
downfall of them that I have noticed is that if there
isnt enough food to go around, they will start to go
after the fish and eat their slimcoat.

~Melissa

--- William <dreammaker2623@...> wrote:

> Those conical snails are trumpet snails that dig
> through the gravel
> and are not usually eaten by loaches because the
> shells are thicker
> and they have a door that they can close up for
> protection. Just feed
> the tank less and do more gravel vacuuming. They are
> good to have in
> your tank because they will eat food that has gotten
> into the gravel
> and also they ace like earthworms in that they will
> keep the gravel
> loose and allow oxygen into the gravel for plant
> roots.
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lisa Rambo"
> <canineclara@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I need ideas for good algae eaters in my 44 gal.
> I only have 1
> good
> > size Otocinclus and a baby Oto. I think I need
> either a couple
> more
> > Oto's or some type of pleco that stays smallish.
> Someone suggested
> > either a bushynose or bristlenose pleco before.
> But I see they
> still
> > can get to 6 inches or so. Do you think a group
> of Oto's can do
> the
> > job??? And what about those algae eating shrimp?
> And, I've had an
> > explosion of those tiny conical shape snails. I
> think someone
> > suggested a chain loach? Is that right? I'll
> have to research
> those.
> > Do they stay small?
> > Lisa
> >
>
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better sports nut! Let your teams follow you
with Yahoo Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/sports;_ylt=At9_qDKvtAbMuh1G1SQtBI7ntAcJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24792 From: Daisy Crazy Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few questions.
Thanks for your help!

Beth Lucas <bethmlucas@...> wrote: I have a pleco in my 50 gallon that I got as a 2 incher a few months ago,
and it’s already six inches long and quite wide. They grow fast and lose
tons of poo in your water:-)



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kristen Kinzer
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few
questions.



Hi Kris,
For starters, your plecostomus will outgrow the 20 gallon tank as well. They
start out cute and little, but I've had em grow to 12 inches or so. In my
opinion a ten gallon tank is plenty big enough to breed guppies, and its not
science. They breed easily. As far as your other tanks go, I wouldn't mess
with them if you are short in the time department.
Kristen

----- Original Message ----
From: kobymonkey com>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 2:28:01 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Hello, I am new to the group and I have a few
questions.

Hi, my name is Kris. I currently have 2 aferican clawed frogs, one
albino and one pigmented. I also have a placastomus( sp) all cramed into
a small 10 gallon tank. I just bought a used 20 gallon long tank and
will be moving them all into it by this weekend hopefully. I would like
to still keep my 10 up and running and maybe breed some feeder fish
possably guppies. Does anyone have any advice? I have never really had
any fish other than goldfish(to much amonia), zebra dennia(sp), and
other cheep walmart fish. Is breeding feeders easy of way above my head?
Also would a 10 gal be to small to have any other fish besides breeding
feeders? I also have a smaller maybe 6 gallon and a second ten. Any
ideas of what I can do with all my mess of tanks? I really only want to
start with a couple, there is so much work involved and time is a in
short supply for me right now. Thanks for your help!!!!

__________________________________________________________
Get easy, one-click access to your favorites.
Make Yahoo! your homepage.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24794 From: Debra Melton Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: discus
H Joey:

I'm not going to comment on the Amazon Rain Water, I've never heard of it.
I guess using it depends on what your water is like.

I have Discus and use a mixture of tap and reverse osmosis water, lately
more tap.
My water parameters are as follows and my fish are doing well and growing.
They are in 1 55 gal heavily planted community tank.

Hardness Hardness Nitrate Nitrite General Carbonate pH *NO3* *NO2*
*GH* *KH* *Fresh* *Amonia* *Tap* *0* *0* *0* *240* *8.0* *0* *R O* *0* *0* *
0* *0* *6.0* *0* 12/1/2007 20 0 0 120 7.6 0.25

I hope this helps.

Deb


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24795 From: nice6669 Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: need help
how di i convert fome saltwater to fresh what i meane is how do i
cleane evry thing filter and such
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24796 From: kathy wells Date: 12/1/2007
Subject: Re: need help
Hi, You can clean everything in a light bleach solution make sure you rinse until you cant smell any bleach. Good Luck, KWells

nice6669 <nice6669@...> wrote: how di i convert fome saltwater to fresh what i meane is how do i
cleane evry thing filter and such






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24797 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Oscar Question
I have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar around
four and a half inches,they get along great. I recently introduced two
new albino tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide jumping out
of the aquarium next to the filter. I had the albino's who are now
around three inches partitioned away from the larger oscars. The red
oscar recently is getting scratched by the partition trying to explore
the other half of the tank, so I removed it. Well now the large tiger
oscar is acting like he's trying to eat the albinos. He clearly
cannot, and I know oscars do not have front teeth to bite with, can he
really do damage to the albino's? I thought the jack dempseys were
picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed them, last time,
but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there yesterday
because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any suggestions,
how much damage can he do to the albinos?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24798 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
What size tank?

With that many BIG and/or aggressive cichlids, I hope it's in the 200G+
range, otherwise you will eventually be down to just a few fish. Darwinism
takes hold with BIG and/or aggressive fish so even if they seemed to have
gotten along when they were smaller, as they get larger, their desire to
live will force them to kill off competition for territory.

For large bodied fish, their body mass increases by eight times for each
time they double their length so a 4" Oscar is equal in body mass to eight
2" Oscars. An 8" Oscar is equal to 64 2" Oscars. A 10" Oscar is equal to
over 100 2" Oscars.

So while you may have been fine with a few fish stuck together when they
were smaller, as they grow, they are emitting hormones into the water and
when those hormone levels get too high, it causes stress to the fish and
then the natural instincts to kill for territory takes over... or in the
case of peaceful fish, they just start getting sick and dying due to the
stress.

Go to http://fish.mongabay.com and do a simple search and read the profiles
on each of your fish so you can see the tank requirements for each
individual fish. If Mongabay says you need at least 55G, that means per
fish, so you would have to add up the recommended water volumes to get the
tank size you would need.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of deberhardt85
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 7:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Oscar Question

I have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar around four
and a half inches,they get along great. I recently introduced two new albino
tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide jumping out of the aquarium
next to the filter. I had the albino's who are now around three inches
partitioned away from the larger oscars. The red oscar recently is getting
scratched by the partition trying to explore the other half of the tank, so
I removed it. Well now the large tiger oscar is acting like he's trying to
eat the albinos. He clearly cannot, and I know oscars do not have front
teeth to bite with, can he really do damage to the albino's? I thought the
jack dempseys were picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed
them, last time, but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there
yesterday because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any
suggestions, how much damage can he do to the albinos?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007
12:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24799 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Besides the obvious first question as to the size of the tank, one
point I'd like to know is why you employed the use of a tank divider
for these two smaller albino Oscars, unless this is a temporary
measure until you can house them in another aquarium. You will not
be able to peacefully "introduce" these two much smaller new Oscars
compatably to the size of a 6" Oscar, which it seems (I hope) you are
starting to find out.

In direct answer to your main concern and question of how much damage
your Tiger Oscar can do to these much smaller Albino Oscars, it
really depends on his reasons, intentions and actual behavior
mannerisms towards these fish, which we cannot see unless you'd like
to post a video. By now, I believe its obvious to the Tiger Oscar
that these Albinos are just too big to be considered as food.
Therefore, his aggression may be more a matter of territoriality,
which he knows he has control over realizing his larger size. This
behavior will not abate until the small Oscars leave his territory
(which is impossible within the confines of the tank). Such damage
may include ripped, torn or bitten off fins, partial removal of
scales to varying degrees and scraped/scratched or otherwise damaged
eyes to the extent of blindness -- and that's if these smaller
Albinos survive his attacks. Other than that, you can expect the
possibility of him eventually killing these smaller fish either
directly or through damages inflicted over time, depending on the
severity of his attacks (which are doubtful to let up). I hope that
answers your question.

Do not expect the possibility of his attacks to stop until these
smaller fish catch up to the Tiger Oscar in size, and that will only
be until after the Tiger Oscar reaches his maximum size (not before),
if they survive and if their aquarium is of adaquate size to allow
them all to reach their full potential. While Lenny suggests a tank
of at least 200 gallons, keep in mind that your four Dempsey's will
easily reach 10" or more, each requiring at least 30 gallons. Taking
all this into consideration, it would seem as though you would
realistically need a tank approaching at least 300 gallons (or more)
to comfortably allow these 8 large fish to reach their full size.
Admittedly, the larger the tank you go, the easier it is to maintain
this bioload, which allows for the leaway of getting by with an
aquarium of slightly lesser proportions if well maintained (frequent
PWC's, etc.), but not by much. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> I have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar
around
> four and a half inches,they get along great. I recently introduced
two
> new albino tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide jumping
out
> of the aquarium next to the filter. I had the albino's who are now
> around three inches partitioned away from the larger oscars. The
red
> oscar recently is getting scratched by the partition trying to
explore
> the other half of the tank, so I removed it. Well now the large
tiger
> oscar is acting like he's trying to eat the albinos. He clearly
> cannot, and I know oscars do not have front teeth to bite with, can
he
> really do damage to the albino's? I thought the jack dempseys were
> picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed them, last
time,
> but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there
yesterday
> because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any
suggestions,
> how much damage can he do to the albinos?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24800 From: William Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Another possibility for the aggression in the larger oscar is that
he/she might be sexually mature and looking for a mate to spawn with.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Besides the obvious first question as to the size of the tank, one
> point I'd like to know is why you employed the use of a tank
divider
> for these two smaller albino Oscars, unless this is a temporary
> measure until you can house them in another aquarium. You will not
> be able to peacefully "introduce" these two much smaller new Oscars
> compatably to the size of a 6" Oscar, which it seems (I hope) you
are
> starting to find out.
>
> In direct answer to your main concern and question of how much
damage
> your Tiger Oscar can do to these much smaller Albino Oscars, it
> really depends on his reasons, intentions and actual behavior
> mannerisms towards these fish, which we cannot see unless you'd
like
> to post a video. By now, I believe its obvious to the Tiger Oscar
> that these Albinos are just too big to be considered as food.
> Therefore, his aggression may be more a matter of territoriality,
> which he knows he has control over realizing his larger size. This
> behavior will not abate until the small Oscars leave his territory
> (which is impossible within the confines of the tank). Such damage
> may include ripped, torn or bitten off fins, partial removal of
> scales to varying degrees and scraped/scratched or otherwise
damaged
> eyes to the extent of blindness -- and that's if these smaller
> Albinos survive his attacks. Other than that, you can expect the
> possibility of him eventually killing these smaller fish either
> directly or through damages inflicted over time, depending on the
> severity of his attacks (which are doubtful to let up). I hope
that
> answers your question.
>
> Do not expect the possibility of his attacks to stop until these
> smaller fish catch up to the Tiger Oscar in size, and that will
only
> be until after the Tiger Oscar reaches his maximum size (not
before),
> if they survive and if their aquarium is of adaquate size to allow
> them all to reach their full potential. While Lenny suggests a
tank
> of at least 200 gallons, keep in mind that your four Dempsey's will
> easily reach 10" or more, each requiring at least 30 gallons.
Taking
> all this into consideration, it would seem as though you would
> realistically need a tank approaching at least 300 gallons (or
more)
> to comfortably allow these 8 large fish to reach their full size.
> Admittedly, the larger the tank you go, the easier it is to
maintain
> this bioload, which allows for the leaway of getting by with an
> aquarium of slightly lesser proportions if well maintained
(frequent
> PWC's, etc.), but not by much. Ray
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar
> around
> > four and a half inches,they get along great. I recently
introduced
> two
> > new albino tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide
jumping
> out
> > of the aquarium next to the filter. I had the albino's who are
now
> > around three inches partitioned away from the larger oscars. The
> red
> > oscar recently is getting scratched by the partition trying to
> explore
> > the other half of the tank, so I removed it. Well now the large
> tiger
> > oscar is acting like he's trying to eat the albinos. He clearly
> > cannot, and I know oscars do not have front teeth to bite with,
can
> he
> > really do damage to the albino's? I thought the jack dempseys
were
> > picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed them, last
> time,
> > but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there
> yesterday
> > because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any
> suggestions,
> > how much damage can he do to the albinos?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24801 From: crazycritterz5 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: New Filtration system
I just purchased a Magnum 350 Deluxe filtration system for my 55gal
tank. What I was wondering , will my tank have to cycle again with a
new filter? Should I put some cycle in the water? Water is now very
clear and looks amazing. Also, will I have to do as many water changes
with this new system? It tells me in the instructions to do a 20%
water change once a month. This seems like a long time to wait for a
water change , but would every 2 weeks be too long? I was thinking
since this filtration system was for up to 100gal tank would maybe
keep it clearner longer. Let me know what you think.

Thank you Brenda :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24802 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
How big is your tank? If you are trying to pair Oscars, I would only
introduce them as babies when they are all small. Your albinos could get
hurt, it’s never good to introduce new Oscars when you have some who are
already six inches. Six inches isn’t very big yet fyi, though you probably
know that, for Oscars.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of deberhardt85
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 6:55 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Oscar Question



I have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar around
four and a half inches,they get along great. I recently introduced two
new albino tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide jumping out
of the aquarium next to the filter. I had the albino's who are now
around three inches partitioned away from the larger oscars. The red
oscar recently is getting scratched by the partition trying to explore
the other half of the tank, so I removed it. Well now the large tiger
oscar is acting like he's trying to eat the albinos. He clearly
cannot, and I know oscars do not have front teeth to bite with, can he
really do damage to the albino's? I thought the jack dempseys were
picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed them, last time,
but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there yesterday
because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any suggestions,
how much damage can he do to the albinos?





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24803 From: Poul Wehner Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
I have the same filter on a 75 gallon.
If your 350 is the only filtration then yes, you'll have to cycle
again. I used some bottled bacteria and had no problems.
I do a %30 water change twice a month.
Careful of the flow rate- the magnum 350 pushes a lot of water. On a
55 gal it may be that your fish are constantly swimming in a strong
current. I've attached a sponge to the intake tube in hopes of slowing
the current down a bit.
So far it's a great filter and I'm very happy with it.
Good luck,
Poul


On Dec 2, 2007 12:54 PM, crazycritterz5 <crazycritterz5@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I just purchased a Magnum 350 Deluxe filtration system for my 55gal
> tank. What I was wondering , will my tank have to cycle again with a
> new filter? Should I put some cycle in the water? Water is now very
> clear and looks amazing. Also, will I have to do as many water changes
> with this new system? It tells me in the instructions to do a 20%
> water change once a month. This seems like a long time to wait for a
> water change , but would every 2 weeks be too long? I was thinking
> since this filtration system was for up to 100gal tank would maybe
> keep it clearner longer. Let me know what you think.
>
> Thank you Brenda :)
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24804 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
1. " will my tank have to cycle again with a new filter?"

That depends on where the bulk of your current biological filtration is
being done now. If it is being done by your current filter, then you
would need to add something to control the ammonia and nitrite spikes
that will occur as the bacteria increase their population to handle the
load. I would suggest using Ultimate by Hikari for this as it changes
the nitrogenous products to a non-toxic form, but still allows the
bacteria to utilize it to establish themselves.

If you are using a biowheel, you may be able to find a way to utilize it
with your new filter. Depending on how it was attached with your old
filter, you may be able to just move it to the output of the new filter,
or you may need to direct the outflow to the old filter and let it
overflow to turn the wheel, or you may need to come up with a method to
make it work.

2. "Also, will I have to do as many water changes with this new system?"

You should maintain at least your established water change schedule.
Water changes are an important part of aquarium keeping. While ammonia
is the best known substance that fish release into their environment,
there are many others as well, and these need to be removed, or at least
minimized, on a regular basis in a closed environment, like an aquarium.
Just think, for a moment, about fish in the wild, from which all our
aquarium species come. In effect, they are having a continual water
change (with very few exceptions, e.g. annual killies in a vernal pond)
as their river flows by or more water is added to the lake as water
drains out. Each fish also has a lot more water volume to itself than is
available in an aquarium. To mimic, as best we can, this environment, we
need to do regular water changes. Obviously, a continual water change
would be best, and there are systems for doing this. Next best would be
daily changes, but for most people, this is a bit much. Weekly changes
work very well, so long as you change at least 10% of the water. The
actual amount you change will vary, depending on the size of the
aquarium the number of fish in it, the size of the fish, and the kind of
fish. Some fish are "dirtier" than others. Weekly changes are the best
compromise in the imperfect systems we keep.

Can't answer the question whether the new filter will keep the aquarium
"cleaner". It depends on what your definition of "clean" is. Certainly,
with the 350, you will have a longer period before you need to clean the
filter, the same with most canister types. I believe the deluxe also
includes a cartridge that will do the same as a diatom filter, in that
your water will be much clearer. The 350 likely has a higher flow rate
than your older filter, and that should help to remove debris that
floats in the water column of your tank. However, the biological
filtration will reach an equilibrium as you had before, and you will
still be faced with the other compounds all your fish will release since
we do not have a filter in the hobby that will remove these compounds
with a great deal of effectiveness (yes, carbon will help, but it is not
a cure-all).

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 12:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Filtration system

I just purchased a Magnum 350 Deluxe filtration system for my 55gal
tank. What I was wondering , will my tank have to cycle again with a
new filter? Should I put some cycle in the water? Water is now very
clear and looks amazing. Also, will I have to do as many water changes
with this new system? It tells me in the instructions to do a 20%
water change once a month. This seems like a long time to wait for a
water change , but would every 2 weeks be too long? I was thinking
since this filtration system was for up to 100gal tank would maybe
keep it clearner longer. Let me know what you think.

Thank you Brenda :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24805 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: My new canister
Hi, I decided to add a canister to my salt tank. So
far I am EXTREMELY pleased with it. I have used
canisters in the past when I had a fresh tank. My
Oscar who thought he was a puppy dog. I tell ya,
canisters sure have come a long way! I bought a
JBJ Reaction Canister. It has 4 layers of filtration
and a UV light. The UV you can cut on and off easily
as needed. It is self priming. Easy shut off valves to
prevent water leaks during cleaning. I love it! Best
of all price is comparable to Marine land. :)
I got a 45 and can handle a tank up to 175g, 290 gph.
I will keep you posted on long term use of it. Oh my
favorite part. It comes with a spray bar to add more
water circulation, and a nozzle incase you want your
water flow that way. I installed the spray bar. It has
a nice even flow without blowing my fish all over the
place.
stace
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24806 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
Hi Brenda,

If your tank is cycled then you should attach the Magnum alongside the
existing filter and let it run for a couple of months for it to mature.
Replacing the existing filter will get your tank to start a cycle again
(atleast a mini cycle). Alternatively, if you can reuse the media from your
other filter in the magnum then you can do a straight replacement.



Having a filter rated for twice your tank will not really make it clean any
more then the one that is rated for your tank. The purpose of the filter is
Biological that converts ammonia into Nitrates. However, Nitrates are pretty
difficult to remove unless you use specific Nitrate filteration otherwise it
is removed by water changes.



To get the exact water change schedule, you will need to monitor your tank’s
Nitrates for a couple of months. Say, after a water change your nitrates are
at 20ppm and after 2 weeks they reach 30ppm then its time to do a water
change. If it reaches 30ppm in 1 week then it’s a 1 week schedule and
similarly if it reaches 30ppm in a month then it’s a 1 month schedule. A Lot
also depends on your tap water so if your tap water is high in nitrates
(20+ppm) then you will need to do larger water changes to bring the Nitrates
back to desired level.



In real world, your tank Nitrates will always be about 10-20% higher than
your tap water nitrates and as long as the figure is below 50-60ppm, it is
not a worry IMO.. though some may regard 50-60ppm to be too high. My tap
water contains 40ppm nitrates and tank remains between 50-60 and has been
this way for years. Its something the fish acclimatize to but higher
nitrates will slower their growth.



Nim



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: 02 December 2007 17:54
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Filtration system



I just purchased a Magnum 350 Deluxe filtration system for my 55gal
tank. What I was wondering , will my tank have to cycle again with a
new filter? Should I put some cycle in the water? Water is now very
clear and looks amazing. Also, will I have to do as many water changes
with this new system? It tells me in the instructions to do a 20%
water change once a month. This seems like a long time to wait for a
water change , but would every 2 weeks be too long? I was thinking
since this filtration system was for up to 100gal tank would maybe
keep it clearner longer. Let me know what you think.

Thank you Brenda :)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24807 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
How big is your tank?

That is a whole bunch of Oscars for one tank. Sounds over crowded to me.
Might explain the aggression and the fish jumping out.

-Mike

In a message dated 12/2/2007 5:55:24 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
deberhardt85@... writes:

have a large tiger oscar at around six inches with a red oscar around
four and a half inches,they get along great. I recently introduced two
new albino tiger oscars after my last one commited suicide jumping out
of the aquarium next to the filter. I had the albino's who are now
around three inches partitioned away from the larger oscars. The red
oscar recently is getting scratched by the partition trying to explore
the other half of the tank, so I removed it. Well now the large tiger
oscar is acting like he's trying to eat the albinos. He clearly
cannot, and I know oscars do not have front teeth to bite with, can he
really do damage to the albino's? I thought the jack dempseys were
picking on the red causing the scratches so I removed them, last time,
but obviously it wasn't them. I put them (4) back in there yesterday
because they seem to mellow the bully tiger oscar. Any suggestions,
how much damage can he do to the albinos?






**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24808 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
I have three beautiful Bettas and a Kuhli Loach that I am going to
have to abandon to hike the Appalachain Trail starting at the end of
March (a six month hike) :( I will miss them a lot, they are my
babies. I need someone to adopt them! I'll give them to you free,
and I'll even drive them to you if you're in a five hour radius of
Fredericksburg, VA. I just want the fish to have good homes.

The Bettas are one female, two males, bought from PetSmart, but
they're extremely healthy. I've had them for about four months. I've
kept them in a thirty gallon tank with seperaters. The female and a
male had ten gallons to themselves and the other male shared ten
gallons with the loach.

Frosty (male): purple and very very low key. He is semi-aggressive,
but for a betta he's very calm.

Dottie (female): very aggressive for a female, but fiesty. Mostly
pale, but purple and blue tint on fins.

Mr. Bojangles (male): moderately aggressive, black with a blue top
fin and an orange bottom fin. He is really stunning.

Mr. Poop (The Kuhli Loach...you can ALWAYS rename them): lively and
likes to come out and swim around a lot. He really doesn't hide
much, especially when food's present.

Please let me know if you're interested, thanks!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24809 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: New Filtration system
All of your questions are directly dependent on the bioload of your tank,
which you did not list. If you only have a single 3" fish in a 55G, you
could certainly go with monthly PWC's but if your tank is heavily stocked,
then you might have to do daily PWC's.

If would have been best if you would have used all of your "old" filter
media in the new filter or did you just add this filter and still have the
old filter running? The majority of the nitrifying bacteria live in the
filter media but they also live on all other surface areas of the tank. If
you still have your old filter running, you will be fine since you already
had enough N-bacteria growing in that filter system so your new system will
slowly build up it's own N-bacteria colony and as it grows, the N-bacteria
colony in the other filter will become smaller.

If you trashed your old filter media, then you need to do daily testing for
ammonia and nitrites since your tank will probably go into a mini-cycle...
once again, this is dependent on the bioload of the tank. If it's light,
then you won't experience much of a mini-cycle. If it's a heavy bioload,
you could have severe ammonia/nitrite spikes. Frequent PWC's, possibly
daily, as needed, will keep the ammonia/nitrite levels at a low enough level
until the tank completes the cycling process again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of crazycritterz5
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 11:54 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New Filtration system

I just purchased a Magnum 350 Deluxe filtration system for my 55gal tank.
What I was wondering , will my tank have to cycle again with a new filter?
Should I put some cycle in the water? Water is now very clear and looks
amazing. Also, will I have to do as many water changes with this new system?
It tells me in the instructions to do a 20% water change once a month. This
seems like a long time to wait for a water change , but would every 2 weeks
be too long? I was thinking since this filtration system was for up to
100gal tank would maybe keep it clearner longer. Let me know what you think.


Thank you Brenda :)


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.12/1163 - Release Date: 12/1/2007
12:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24810 From: Susan Mrenna Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
I am in Sterling :) Email me privately at mail4sdm2@... to
arrange details. Susan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24811 From: kelly Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Hi Im new to the group.
I was wondering how long does it take for a lobster to reach
maturety? And are they hard to raise in an aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24812 From: William Date: 12/2/2007
Subject: Re: Hi Im new to the group.
What kind of lobster are you talking about? Is it the salt water kind
or the freshwater crawfish that they call lobsters? There are several
kinds of each freshwater lobsters and freshwater crawfish so you need
to be more specific.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kelly" <fucil2005@...> wrote:
>
> I was wondering how long does it take for a lobster to reach
> maturety? And are they hard to raise in an aquarium?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24813 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
I set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank about a month and a half ago. It
is moderately planted, and I am going to inject Co2 with a DIY system.
I also recently bought a pH monitor and calibrated it (with 2
solutions) and it works great...but only if the lights are off. If the
light is off, I get a constant reading (about 7.8), but as soon as the
light snaps on, the monitor readings fluctuate wildly. It isn't
anything to do with temprature, because it does it as soon as the light
comes on in the morning. it's a t5 fixture and 2 54w bulbs. I also
have 2 LED moonlights, and interstingly these also make the readings
swing - but very little. Like + or minus .7 or .8
With the grow light on, the readings are unreadable - goes from 8.9
down to 6.3, then up to 7.7, you get the idea.

So I was wondering if anyone has experience with this? I imagine
something in the light spectrum affects the probe itself? Also, when I
start my Co2, I'll want to watch pH closely (I think?) so, is my only
solution to turn the light off every time I want to montor pH?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24814 From: iowakoi Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: What's going on under the ice in your pond
It's turned super cold here in Iowa. I've always wondered exactly what
happens under the ice in my pond. This article is a great source of
information the Winter effect on koi, goldfish and ponds. Written by
Richard Carlson and published by AKCA answers some of the most basic
pond questions such as: how to prepare the pond, immune system changes,
toxic gases, ammonia and aeromonas bacteria problems. Simple tips on
feeding and preparing your filters can make a world of difference to
your fish. Visit
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com/site/1566246/page/902636
<http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com/site/1566246/page/902636> to
view the entire article. Stay warm and wish for Spring!


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24815 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Just understanding basic science leads me to believe this is due to the
plants utilizing CO2 during photosynthesis whenever the lights are on. When
the plants take CO2 out of the water, the pH will go up. At night (or when
lights are out) the plants aren't going to be using the CO2 so the pH will
go back down. I imagine the plants do not utilize CO2 at a specific speed
all of the time so that may be why the CO2 levels fluctuate which directly
cause the pH levels to fluctuate.

From all I've read, this type of fluctuating pH and CO2 does not affect fish
compared to pH levels that change NOT due to CO2 levels. It must be
something in the fishes osmoregulatory system or other sensory systems that
let the fish know it's nothing to get stressed out about if pH changes are a
result of CO2 fluctuations.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 5:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions

I set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank about a month and a half ago. It is
moderately planted, and I am going to inject Co2 with a DIY system.
I also recently bought a pH monitor and calibrated it (with 2
solutions) and it works great...but only if the lights are off. If the light
is off, I get a constant reading (about 7.8), but as soon as the light snaps
on, the monitor readings fluctuate wildly. It isn't anything to do with
temprature, because it does it as soon as the light comes on in the morning.
it's a t5 fixture and 2 54w bulbs. I also have 2 LED moonlights, and
interstingly these also make the readings swing - but very little. Like + or
minus .7 or .8 With the grow light on, the readings are unreadable - goes
from 8.9 down to 6.3, then up to 7.7, you get the idea.

So I was wondering if anyone has experience with this? I imagine something
in the light spectrum affects the probe itself? Also, when I start my Co2,
I'll want to watch pH closely (I think?) so, is my only solution to turn the
light off every time I want to montor pH?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1165 - Release Date: 12/2/2007
8:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24816 From: Angela Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] In Response to Angela
Sorry I've been slow on the answers. I discovered my kids had ruined my
water tests, just got out and got new kit tonight. Ammonia and nitrites are
at 0, nitrate is at 40, pH was a whopping 8.0 and my heater apparently died,
the temp is only 68.. Ugh! So I bought a new heater, did a 20 gallon water
change and threw some conditioning bacteria in the tank. I will check the pH
again in the morning, when the temp is up to par and if necessary treat to
lower the pH. The substrate is not optimized for cichlids, it's just regular
aquarium gravel. The tank is not near the window. I have two 4' x8' windows
at one corner of the living room. The tank is located in the opposite corner
of the living room, as far from the windows as they can get. The flourescent
lights are on about 12hrs a day. Should I cut the amount of time the lights
are on? My final goal for this tank is to have a lot of small peaceful fish
that swim at all levels of the tank. I would also like to heavily plant the
tank eventually. I need to learn A LOT more about that before I dive into
that venture though. Any fish suggestions when I get things back under
control? I think I will probably trade the silver dollar in, is the Rafael
cat ok in there? Thanks for the help!
Angela

-------Original Message-------

From: iluvpetfish
Date: 11/30/2007 7:07:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] In Response to Angela

Hello, without knowing your water chemistry values as of yet, I would
Try to contact the original owner if at all possible and inquire about
the substrate possibly being optimized for cichlids?? Your ph level
could be high if your substrate is a specialized cichlid formula.If it
is replace it asap. Oh, As you are aware, you might also think about
relocating your tank away from your window.(should ease maintenance).

=).


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24817 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: In Response to Angela
It's too bad you already bought a new heater. My suggestion for anyone else
ever needing a new heater is to buy two 1/2 sized heaters instead of one
full size. This provides for redundancy in the event of a failure of either
one of them. It's unlikely they would both fail at the same time. This
also protects your fish from overheating if either of them should ever fail
in the ON position. A 1/2 size heater stuck in the ON position would still
heat up the tank but not to catastrophic levels. A full sized heater stuck
in the ON position could give you a boiled fish dinner. ;-)

A pH of 8.0 isn't "whopping". It may be perfectly normal and most fish will
acclimate to that pH without a problem. The thing with pH is that you want
it to remain consistent. Many people have pH levels of 9.0 and can keep
most fish with no problems. The thing you want to learn about is whether
that is your "normal" pH or if something in the tank is causing it to rise.
To do this, read my blog article on "Find Your Tap/Source Water Baseline".
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/05/find-your-tap-source-water-baseline.ht
ml If the link breaks, which is likely with Yahoo Groups, just go to my
blog in my signature and the article is listed on the right side. Unless
you have a particular species that needs a certain pH (or plants that need a
lower pH) or if you are trying to breed fish that need a certain pH to
induce breeding, then there is almost never a reason to use pH altering
chemicals.

Next, I'm not sure what the "conditioning bacteria" were that you threw into
the tank but they are NOT needed either. Those types of products are sold
to newbies who do not understand the biology of what happens in a fish tank.
The only thing you would need to add to your tap water is a dechlor product.
The good bacteria live on the surfaces of your tank and mostly in the filter
media (floss pads, sponges, bio-media, etc.) so doing a PWC does not remove
any of them.

Even vacuuming the gravel really good hardly has any affect on the
nitrifying bacteria since they are microscopic and live in a film attached
to the gravel and in the cracks and crevices of each piece of gravel.
Unless you have a "Nuclear Powered Super Duper Turbo Charged Gravel Vacuum"
[Note that I already hold the patent and trade-mark on that... ;-)], you are
not going to suck any of them off the gravel while doing normal tank
maintenance, including deep gravel vacuuming.

With only two fish in the tank, you should not be having excess nutrients
(nitrates/phosphates), fish poop and ammonia to feed algae so you may need
to vacuum your gravel more thoroughly and do proper and regular filter
maintenance (while at my blog, read my article on Filter Maintenance &
Cleaning also) which will keep the nitrates at a lower level. You could
have a high nitrate/phosphate level from your tap/source water but you will
learn that when you do your baseline testing I recommended. Well the
baseline will tell you your nitrate levels from your tap. You could ask
your local utility for the phosphate levels of your water or have it tested
at your LFS.

Since your tank isn't heavily planted now, you could also limit the bright
aquarium lights to 8-10 hours a day, instead of 12. I try to mimic nature
with my lighting. The sun doesn't come on full strength for 12 hours a day.
I turn on a room light in the morning and leave it on for an hour or two
before I turn on the tank lights when I leave for work. Then when I get
home in the evening, I turn on the room lights again and turn off the tank
lights. Then a couple of hours later, I turn off the room lights. Try to
mimic what the sun lighting does outside. If you are on a schedule where
you want the lights to be on for 8-10 hours but at a different time frame
from normal daylight, then slowly change the schedule until you get it to
where you want it. But then you would still need to give the fish total or
near complete darkness for 12 hours a day just like nature does. If you
want the tank lights on from 2pm till 10pm, then you would need to blackout
the tank with a cover of some sort from midnight to noon and then use the
room lighting to mimic dawn and dusk. This would also work for your plants
once your tank is heavily planted but you still need to give your fish their
dark/rest/sleep time as nature intended.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Angela
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 8:54 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] In Response to Angela

Sorry I've been slow on the answers. I discovered my kids had ruined my
water tests, just got out and got new kit tonight. Ammonia and nitrites are
at 0, nitrate is at 40, pH was a whopping 8.0 and my heater apparently died,
the temp is only 68.. Ugh! So I bought a new heater, did a 20 gallon water
change and threw some conditioning bacteria in the tank. I will check the pH
again in the morning, when the temp is up to par and if necessary treat to
lower the pH. The substrate is not optimized for cichlids, it's just regular
aquarium gravel. The tank is not near the window. I have two 4' x8' windows
at one corner of the living room. The tank is located in the opposite corner
of the living room, as far from the windows as they can get. The flourescent
lights are on about 12hrs a day. Should I cut the amount of time the lights
are on? My final goal for this tank is to have a lot of small peaceful fish
that swim at all levels of the tank. I would also like to heavily plant the
tank eventually. I need to learn A LOT more about that before I dive into
that venture though. Any fish suggestions when I get things back under
control? I think I will probably trade the silver dollar in, is the Rafael
cat ok in there? Thanks for the help!
Angela

-------Original Message-------

From: iluvpetfish
Date: 11/30/2007 7:07:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] In Response to Angela

Hello, without knowing your water chemistry values as of yet, I would Try to
contact the original owner if at all possible and inquire about the
substrate possibly being optimized for cichlids?? Your ph level could be
high if your substrate is a specialized cichlid formula.If it is replace it
asap. Oh, As you are aware, you might also think about relocating your tank
away from your window.(should ease maintenance).

=).



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1169 - Release Date: 12/3/2007
10:56 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24818 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
Just curious if your pH meter is battery operated, or using house
current. If it is the latter, try plugging into a different circuit
entirely, not just a different outlet. If it is battery operated, or
plugging into a different circuit does not fix it, try placing a Faraday
cage around the probe and meter or under the lighting fixture to
determine f there is some sort of electronic shenanigans going on
affecting your meter.

You should see some fluctuation, as the plants start photosynthesizing
and releasing oxygen rather than releasing carbon dioxide, but I would
not think that you would see the kind of fluctuation you are seeing now.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 6:08 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions

I set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank about a month and a half ago. It
is moderately planted, and I am going to inject Co2 with a DIY system.
I also recently bought a pH monitor and calibrated it (with 2
solutions) and it works great...but only if the lights are off. If the
light is off, I get a constant reading (about 7.8), but as soon as the
light snaps on, the monitor readings fluctuate wildly. It isn't
anything to do with temprature, because it does it as soon as the light
comes on in the morning. it's a t5 fixture and 2 54w bulbs. I also
have 2 LED moonlights, and interstingly these also make the readings
swing - but very little. Like + or minus .7 or .8
With the grow light on, the readings are unreadable - goes from 8.9
down to 6.3, then up to 7.7, you get the idea.

So I was wondering if anyone has experience with this? I imagine
something in the light spectrum affects the probe itself? Also, when I
start my Co2, I'll want to watch pH closely (I think?) so, is my only
solution to turn the light off every time I want to montor pH?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24819 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
The four jack dempseys are 2 inches right now, I had eight originally
in a 220 cichlid community tank but they proved themselves the
aggressors everyone said they were, I actually have one blue
pseudotropheus in a 29 gallon mid-way tank for fry, who had his eyes
picked out and was on death's door thanks to the jack's. Four were
traded back to RMS Aquaculture and I kept the other four. They are all
housed in a 90 gallon right now, but I've decided to buy my 7 yr old
son a tank and move two and two of the oscars and jack dempseys to his
new tank in around a month. I did a large water change today, and
rearranged the oscar tank, so far the large oscar has shown no
aggression for the whole day. The partition was in the tank to give
the albinos a chance to add some body mass before attempting to
introduce, and to try to get them aquainted in a safe way before hand.
I realize four full grown oscars and jack dempseys is too much for the
90, and likely will have to find a new home for them when the time
comes. So far I've been keeping the bio-load tamed with an aqua-clear
70 and a penguin 350 bio-wheel.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24820 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/3/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
When the jack dempseys get too large my daughter will probably get an
early christmas present of an aquarium in her room with jack dempseys
entertaining her. Sure beats the light up crib toys they have at the
stores!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24821 From: Kevin Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: beta question
ok i have a question i have 4 female betas 1 male and 2 algey eatrs in
a ten gallon tank i have 1 other male and female in 2 other tanks but
my prombles is the males never seem to get along and i am try to breed
them how long should i give them to see if they get along and one more
question one of my girls today were the male was put in here eyes
turned kindof white nevere seen there before why?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24822 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: beta question
Male Betta's will almost NEVER get along with other males. I've had several
in a 55 gal tank with many, many hiding places, but, in a 10 gal tank you're
asking for trouble. Betta's, both male and female, tend to be territorial
and aggressive towards any fish they see as a threat even 1 of their own
species. If you want to breed them you need to get the males and the females
in separate tanks and get them conditioned. You also need to keep their
water in pristine condition.

There are several great websites devoted to Betta's with great, detailed
sections on breeding them.

Good luck.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin" <kev48us@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:20 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] beta question


ok i have a question i have 4 female betas 1 male and 2 algey eatrs in
a ten gallon tank i have 1 other male and female in 2 other tanks but
my prombles is the males never seem to get along and i am try to breed
them how long should i give them to see if they get along and one more
question one of my girls today were the male was put in here eyes
turned kindof white nevere seen there before why?



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24823 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Damsels
UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I would
never be able to put anything else in there. They
became very territorial, and had lot's of caves and
hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
when I first bought my 75g and was told they were good
fish to start out with. They should also tell you they
get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I could
put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00 damsels.
I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him up
real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught them
and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make it.
After a while I finally became very aggessive in
trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but with
their lifespan who knows when I would have been able
to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been fish
food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock, chasing
3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to get it
landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a sand
storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00 dollar
fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far in
the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75 more.
Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's to go
in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the 30.
The zoo's are looking like they are going to recover
from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking too
good yesterday :(
Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown after
all :(
I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait until
after the holidays.
Wish me luck.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24824 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: beta question
A 10G tank isn't really big enough for all of the fish you have in there....
especially depending on the type of algae eaters that you have. Do you know
what species they are? There are dozens, if not hundreds of different
species of fish that eat algae. Some of them stay small but most of them
grow really BIG. If you have one of the bigger species in a 10G tank, you
will cause it to become stunted and it will have stress related health
issues and die an early death so please figure out which species you have
and rehome them if they are one of the larger species.

Do a Google search on "breeding bettas" and you will find many websites with
proper and detailed breeding procedures. One site that I know of is
BettaTalk.com. Sometimes, males and females will get along OK but most of
the time they will fight, sometimes to the death so you have to be very
diligent and careful when trying to breed them.

As a suggestion, here is a list and stocking suggestions for a 10G tank so
you will know which fish do best in smaller tanks.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/10%20Gallon%20Tank%20Stocking%20S
uggestions

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 3:20 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] beta question

ok i have a question i have 4 female betas 1 male and 2 algey eatrs in a ten
gallon tank i have 1 other male and female in 2 other tanks but my prombles
is the males never seem to get along and i am try to breed them how long
should i give them to see if they get along and one more question one of my
girls today were the male was put in here eyes turned kindof white nevere
seen there before why?



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1169 - Release Date: 12/3/2007
10:56 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24825 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up crews
are not
for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I would
> never be able to put anything else in there. They
> became very territorial, and had lot's of caves and
> hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> when I first bought my 75g and was told they were good
> fish to start out with. They should also tell you they
> get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I could
> put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00 damsels.
> I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him up
> real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught them
> and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make it.
> After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but with
> their lifespan who knows when I would have been able
> to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been fish
> food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock, chasing
> 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to get it
> landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a sand
> storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00 dollar
> fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far in
> the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75 more.
> Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's to go
> in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the 30.
> The zoo's are looking like they are going to recover
> from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking too
> good yesterday :(
> Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown after
> all :(
> I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait until
> after the holidays.
> Wish me luck.
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24826 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Ouch! My muscles ache just reading about your 'adventure'!I went thru
something similar - 'tho not to your extent with the rocks - with a LFS when
I was just starting out. I no longer trust LFS employees whom I do not know
well when they say a species is 'semi- aggressive' unless I know that from
research I've done myself.

Good luck getting your tanks settled to your happiness!

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stacey Riga" <sagirkennel@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 8:32 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Damsels


> UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I would
> never be able to put anything else in there. They
> became very territorial, and had lot's of caves and
> hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> when I first bought my 75g and was told they were good
> fish to start out with. They should also tell you they
> get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I could
> put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00 damsels.
> I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him up
> real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught them
> and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make it.
> After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but with
> their lifespan who knows when I would have been able
> to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been fish
> food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock, chasing
> 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to get it
> landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a sand
> storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00 dollar
> fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far in
> the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75 more.
> Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's to go
> in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the 30.
> The zoo's are looking like they are going to recover
> from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking too
> good yesterday :(
> Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown after
> all :(
> I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait until
> after the holidays.
> Wish me luck.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
> the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the
> SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24827 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
getting skeptical about that one!
My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.

My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
et...
What fishes are you considering?
My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
now..lol
Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
Maybe we can learn together.
stacey

--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> lesson. Clean-up crews
> are not
> for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> would
> > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> and
> > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> good
> > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> they
> > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> could
> > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> damsels.
> > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> up
> > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> them
> > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> it.
> > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> with
> > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> able
> > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> fish
> > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> chasing
> > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> get it
> > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> sand
> > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> dollar
> > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> in
> > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> more.
> > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> to go
> > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> 30.
> > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> recover
> > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> too
> > good yesterday :(
> > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> after
> > all :(
> > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> until
> > after the holidays.
> > Wish me luck.
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24828 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie


Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol
> Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> Maybe we can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > are not
> > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24829 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Frog Dog said:

"Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp, a
Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9 Nassarius
Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged crab, and 1
red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag." ...

AND A PARTRIDGE IN A PEAR TREEEEEEEEE!!!!!

Sorry, I couldn't resist. LOL :-D

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everybody!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 10:21 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you have?
We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp, a
Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9 Nassarius
Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged crab, and 1
red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost a Mexican Turbo
and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and diatom
issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water changes, -Ammonia,
PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite to help battle brown
diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd like a clown and an
Anemone -some day... We will probably get more urchins, these little buggers
seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what is hardy and what is not by trial
and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who said he never performs water changes,
that doing them only creates a sterilized environment, and that fish never
become hardy because their enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
right balance, water changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not
had a water change since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just
mentioning what I was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like poppy
seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and gone this
morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you keep
them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn from me
> on damsels. If you put Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> and they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the Blue
> Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least mine is small. He is a
> cute lil bugga too. The way the swim to too adorable. They are suppose
> to be hardy too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I got.
> After a few months that thing is big! It is interesting though. It
> will eat off of a stick..lol I haven't read where it will nab fish
> yet, but I am getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches across, and he
> blends in so well with the coralline, no one can tell he is in there
> unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get some neon
> gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for beginners. But, I read
> their life span is about a year. :( I bought a book called, "The
> Marine Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on types of
> fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even after the sand
> storm shock..lol Then it fell into a crevice and I had to dig it out.
> It is a bit perturbed with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :) Maybe we
> can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
<mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up
> > crews are not for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They became very
> > > territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker when I first
> > > bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90 pounds of rocks,
> > > and chased those lil bugga everywhere. It took forever but I
> > > finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in trying to catch
> > > them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the peppermint shrimp
> > > in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on adding anything
> > > else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~ OH! And on top of
> > > that my new salt water wasn't completely cured. I hope I don't
> > > loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.13/1169 - Release Date: 12/3/2007
10:56 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24830 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I bought some carribean from
http://www.intmarinefish.com
Make sure to ask for the free overnight DHL! The
cureed cost the same as the uncured. They always state
a sale, but it is usually around the same price, a few
cents off here and there.
I did not ask for the free DHL over night and it took
3 days for mine to get here. So ask for it. It is
shelf rock though. I bought some Marshall from the LFS
to give a more branching look as well. I love the look
of Marshall! The Carribean did give me some extra
pounage and places for corals. MIne is getting color
on it pretty quick too.
I have some various hermits and snails too. I have
Mexicans as well, and I ALWAYS have to make sure if
they have fell down or not, and get them righted back
up. BUmmer, but they are cute. I have one that is
getting quite big. Oh, I have a cowlie. I think it is
very interesting.
As for lighting I have an Orbit.I bought it used from
www.saltwaterfish.com I looked up the specs for you,

Current USA Orbit Extreme Compact Fluorescent Fixture,
4X130 Watt, 48 inch
Usually Ships in 1 to 2 Business Days
Our Price: $529.99 In Stock!
The Current USA Orbit Extreme 48 inch compact
fluorescent aquarium light is for reef aquariums.
Please visit our Lighting Chart page to identify the
best light for your particular reef aquarium.
Dimensions: 48.50" x 12.0" x 4.5" without legs
Two 130 Watt Dual Actinic Lamps (460nm/420nm) and two
130 Watt Dual Daylight Lamps (10,000K/6700K)
Four lunar lights
Two 3" fans for ventilation
Adjustable Docking Mounts (legs) for elevating above
aquarium. Easily removable acrylic lens.
Bought used in EXCELLENT shape with new bulbs. I paid
250.00 for it, and could not be more than happy with
it.
I have bought several items from the Saltwaterfish
classifieds. The light for the 30g I bought from
there. I just look at some of the sellers other posts
to see if I can think I can trust them. If they sold
something a post will show up.
The frags I bought from there. The shipping will kill
you, but best to buy several at one from the seller,
and you can pick up some nice one's for about 9-10
dollars for frags. My frags came to me very healthy
and are triving (candy cane opened back up)
The urchins look scary to me!! Do they sting? I
haven't looked them up in the book, just saw one at
the LFS. I am steering clear of anenomes. Too
dangerous for me with epilepsy and other neourological
problems. PLus heard they are HARD to keep alive even
in a very seasoned tank :( They look cool though!
I just put chemi pure in my tank too! LOL phosphate
problem for me. I got the canister to suppliment my
skimmer, so I would have a place for media etc..I know
all on RAG say no, but I am trying it anyway. I like
the fact it has a UV, but may be too small. I will see
I guess.
I don't have much in my tank yet. It took me 8 months
to get a coral~ LOL So right now one little clown fish
a brittle and some clean up crews.
I can't belive a LFS worker said no PWC. UGH! I wonder
if he bathes in his toilet...lol
Geez I wrote a book.
stacey...oh I am clueless on eggs


--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> lighting do you
> have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> Sifting Crabs, 9
> Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> little poly frag. I lost
> a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> to my ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> a nitrate and
> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> despite water
> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> bought Chemi-Pure elite
> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> the diatoms). I'd
> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> probably get more
> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> hardy! I'm learning what
> is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> stopped by a LFS who
> said he never performs water changes, that doing
> them only creates a
> sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> hardy because their
> enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> balance, water
> changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> not had a water change
> since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> just mentioning what I
> was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> eggs that look like
> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> bed last night and
> gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> wondering how you
> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> put
> > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> and
> > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> the
> > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> the
> > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> I
> > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> stick..lol
> > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> am
> > getting skeptical about that one!
> > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> too.
> > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > across, and he blends in so well with the
> coralline,
> > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> out.
> >
> > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> get
> > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> for
> > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> on
> > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> compatablity
> > et...
> > What fishes are you considering?
> > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> a
> > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> perturbed
> > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > now..lol
> > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> :)
> > Maybe we can learn together.
> > stacey
> >
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> >
> > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > are not
> > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > would
> > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> They
> > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> caves
> > > and
> > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> worker
> > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> were
> > > good
> > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> you
> > > they
> > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > could
> > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > damsels.
> > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> him
> > > up
> > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> 90
> > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> caught
> > > them
> > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> make
> > > it.
> > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> in
> > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> but
> > > with
> > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> been
> > > able
> > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> the
> > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> been
> > > fish
> > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > chasing
> > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> to
> > > get it
> > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> in a
> > > sand
> > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> 3.00
> > > dollar
> > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> on
> > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> far
> > > in
> > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> 75
> > > more.
> > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> get's
> > > to go
> > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> the
> > > 30.
> > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > recover
> > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> looking
> > > too
> > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> wasn't
> > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> clown
>
=== message truncated ===
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24831 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Are you usin Ro water?
Whaat kind of salt are you using?
I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying Instants
Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems with it
disolving but I think the box got wet before purchase.

stace
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> lighting do you
> have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> Sifting Crabs, 9
> Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> little poly frag. I lost
> a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> to my ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> a nitrate and
> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> despite water
> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> bought Chemi-Pure elite
> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> the diatoms). I'd
> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> probably get more
> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> hardy! I'm learning what
> is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> stopped by a LFS who
> said he never performs water changes, that doing
> them only creates a
> sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> hardy because their
> enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> balance, water
> changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> not had a water change
> since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> just mentioning what I
> was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> eggs that look like
> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> bed last night and
> gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> wondering how you
> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> put
> > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> and
> > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> the
> > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> the
> > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> I
> > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> stick..lol
> > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> am
> > getting skeptical about that one!
> > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> too.
> > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > across, and he blends in so well with the
> coralline,
> > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> out.
> >
> > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> get
> > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> for
> > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> on
> > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> compatablity
> > et...
> > What fishes are you considering?
> > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> a
> > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> perturbed
> > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > now..lol
> > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> :)
> > Maybe we can learn together.
> > stacey
> >
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> >
> > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > are not
> > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > would
> > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> They
> > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> caves
> > > and
> > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> worker
> > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> were
> > > good
> > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> you
> > > they
> > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > could
> > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > damsels.
> > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> him
> > > up
> > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> 90
> > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> caught
> > > them
> > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> make
> > > it.
> > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> in
> > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> but
> > > with
> > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> been
> > > able
> > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> the
> > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> been
> > > fish
> > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > chasing
> > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> to
> > > get it
> > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> in a
> > > sand
> > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> 3.00
> > > dollar
> > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> on
> > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> far
> > > in
> > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> 75
> > > more.
> > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> get's
> > > to go
> > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> the
> > > 30.
> > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > recover
> > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> looking
> > > too
> > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> wasn't
> > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> clown
>
=== message truncated ===
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24832 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_. The same bad fish dude
told me filtered water was OK.
I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( , so many things to
learn.....

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Are you usin Ro water?
> Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying Instants
> Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems with it
> disolving but I think the box got wet before purchase.
>
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> > lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> > to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> > a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> > despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> > the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> > probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> > hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> > stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing
> > them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> > hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> > balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> > not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> > just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> > eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> > bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> > wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> > -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> > put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> > and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> > the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> > the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> > I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> > am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> > too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> > out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> > get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> > for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> > on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> > a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> > :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> > They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> > caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> > worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> > were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> > you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> > him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> > 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> > caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> > make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> > in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> > but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> > been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> > the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> > been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > > chasing
> > > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> > to
> > > > get it
> > > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> > in a
> > > > sand
> > > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> > 3.00
> > > > dollar
> > > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> > on
> > > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> > far
> > > > in
> > > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> > 75
> > > > more.
> > > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> > get's
> > > > to go
> > > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> > the
> > > > 30.
> > > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > > recover
> > > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> > looking
> > > > too
> > > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> > wasn't
> > > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> > clown
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24833 From: kobymonkey Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
I was hopping that some one might be able to walk me through how they
have cared for and set their tank up for feeder fish. Maybe guppies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24834 From: nice6669 Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kobymonkey" <kobymonkey@...> wrote:
>
> I was hopping that some one might be able to walk me through how they
> have cared for and set their tank up for feeder fish. Maybe guppies.
>
just treat them like you would any fish guppy will do hon ther own put
some breader grass in with them
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24835 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Sea Salts
Jodie, So far, I don't see anything wrong with the
manufacturer. I noticed my snails shells were looking
chipped in some areas,thought my hermits were not
growing as well as I thought, and got to researching
around. I was also wondering if I needed a different
salt, because of advancing the tank more towards reef.
I found out, hermits, corals, live rock et need more
trace elements. The reef crystals helps balance the
alk and calcium better too. (from what I read) I have
only only been using for the Crystals past several
water changes, but my inverts are actually much more
active! WOW! Too ealy to tell on coral grow.
Reef Crystals is made by the same company as Instant
Ocean.
Instant Ocean is geared more towards fish only tanks,
Reef Crystals is geared more for Reef systems.
So, Instant Ocean is not BAD we just need more
goody's.
As for the RO water system. GET ONE!!! Heavy Metals
ESECIALLY any copper, are toxic to the saltwater tank.
Not only that but the heavy metals etc..can cause
major algae blooms. Probable your diatoms are the
result of the tap water even if youu use a regular
filter. They do not go though the reverse osmosis
stage.
Here is an article from about.com to give you an
idea.Sorry another book :)

Nutrients: Diatoms are most responsive to
silca/silicates, but DOCs (Dissolved Organic
Compounds), nitrates, and phosphates are food sources
as well.
Silicates are most often introduced into aquariums by
means of using unfiltered fresh tap water, the wrong
kind of sand or substrate material, and through sea
salt mixes that contain a higher than normal
concentration of this element.
Solutions: Use RO/DI filtered make-up water, an
aragonite type sand or substrate source, and a high
quality sea salt mix.
Phosphates (PO4) are commonly introduced into
aquariums by means of using unfiltered fresh tap
water, and through many aquarium products that may
contain higher than normal concentrations of this
element, such as sea salt mixes, activated carbon, KH
buffers, foods, and many other sources. Also, for
established reef tanks the long-term use of Kalkwasser
precipitates phosphates out of the water, and these
phosphate based compounds can settle on and in the
live rock and substrate.
Solutions: U se RO/DI filtered make-up water, a high
quality sea salt mix, and be aware of the elements
contained in other common aquarium products you may be
using. For solutions to problems that can arise from
using kalkwasser, refer to The Fishline's Microalgae
article.
stace
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> The same bad fish dude
> told me filtered water was OK.
> I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> so many things to
> learn.....
>
> Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24836 From: William Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
You do not even need a glass tank, a Rubbermaid container will be
fine, just make sure to have some type of filtration and a heater and
give then food food. And as was already mentioned some place for the
babies to hide from the parents. do not for get to do your regular
water changes to keep the feeder guppies healthy, you do not want to
feed sick fish to the fish that you want to keep alive, would you?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "nice6669" <nice6669@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "kobymonkey" <kobymonkey@>
wrote:
> >
> > I was hopping that some one might be able to walk me through how
they
> > have cared for and set their tank up for feeder fish. Maybe
guppies.
> >
> just treat them like you would any fish guppy will do hon ther own
put
> some breader grass in with them
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24837 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Noticing the plight of your blue Pseudotropheus, this is one of the
main reasons why Old World (African) and New World (Central & South
American) Cichlids should never be mixed. They do not recognize each
other signals when it comes to aggression and territoriality.

It appears as though you may not have understood my previous post
correctly -- your adding a bit of body mass to the Albinos is not
going to deter the Tiger from trying to evict them from
his "territory." This aggression MAY only subside after the Albinos
get closer in size to the Tiger, which won't occur until after the
Tiger has reached his full size and will no longer grow. The Albinos
may catch up to him in size after this time, if they had not been
stunted in the meantime, but this will still not guarantee peaceful
coexistance.

Rearranging the tank does help in disorienting Cichlids' territorial
instincts, and while it works longer term for Rift Lake Cichlids,
this ploy is all too short-lived for New World Cichlids which wise up
to the new surroundings of their territory much faster. You may need
to watch out for the Albinos' safety sooner than you think,
especially as you perform their needed PWC's (partial water changes)
which serve to stimulate this behavior. I hope the partition is well
fixed.

Likewise, noticing your plans to separate these fish into two tanks
in about a month, with the two Albino Oscars and two Jack Dempsey's
in one tank, you can expect more aggression from those two Dempsey's
since at least one of them now will be the dominant fish in that
tank -- and they're much larger than the (albino) Oscars. Despite
their size even when full grown, Oscars are not all that aggressive
when compared to other Cichlids (even though they can get rough,
especially among conspecifics). Oscars much smaller than Jack
Dempsey's may well get harassed, when its been reminded that you've
already attested to the Dempsey's aggressiveness with the Mbuna.

I would suggest rethinking your plan, or at least revise it until
after the Albinos have put on enough size so as to have outgrown the
Dempsey's -- which they should do sooner than you think; they're fast
growers. Your filtration seems adequate, but again, you'll need to
keep up with regular (weekly) PWC's. Ray




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> The four jack dempseys are 2 inches right now, I had eight
originally
> in a 220 cichlid community tank but they proved themselves the
> aggressors everyone said they were, I actually have one blue
> pseudotropheus in a 29 gallon mid-way tank for fry, who had his
eyes
> picked out and was on death's door thanks to the jack's. Four were
> traded back to RMS Aquaculture and I kept the other four. They are
all
> housed in a 90 gallon right now, but I've decided to buy my 7 yr
old
> son a tank and move two and two of the oscars and jack dempseys to
his
> new tank in around a month. I did a large water change today, and
> rearranged the oscar tank, so far the large oscar has shown no
> aggression for the whole day. The partition was in the tank to
give
> the albinos a chance to add some body mass before attempting to
> introduce, and to try to get them aquainted in a safe way before
hand.
> I realize four full grown oscars and jack dempseys is too much for
the
> 90, and likely will have to find a new home for them when the time
> comes. So far I've been keeping the bio-load tamed with an aqua-
clear
> 70 and a penguin 350 bio-wheel.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24838 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
Guppies are easy. Get a tank, add water, add guppies, add food.

A bare tank is best. Get a filter going and cycle the tank with ammonia.
One the tank has cycled, get a dollar or two worth of guppies at the LFS
and put them in the tank. Feed as you would any fish. Adding some
floating fine leafed plants will help hide the young from the adults,
who may eat them otherwise. A heater will help reduce the gestation
cycle and the young to grow faster, so long as sufficient food is
available.

Do not be surprised if you lose a number of the purchased feeders within
a few days. This is to be expected due to the way these fish are kept
and handled prior to the time they reach you.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of kobymonkey
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 1:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?

I was hopping that some one might be able to walk me through how they
have cared for and set their tank up for feeder fish. Maybe guppies.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24839 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I too like you have had the same problem. I cycled my tank with damsels, that i could not bear to destroy afterwards. The simplest solution for me was to change the landscaping in the tank. that confused them and they had to set up new territory. also, i don't know if u have heard of it, but u can use a plastic soda bottle with bait to catch them also.








----- Original Message ----
From: Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 8:32:09 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Damsels

UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I would
never be able to put anything else in there. They
became very territorial, and had lot's of caves and
hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
when I first bought my 75g and was told they were good
fish to start out with. They should also tell you they
get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I could
put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00 damsels.
I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him up
real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught them
and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make it.
After a while I finally became very aggessive in
trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but with
their lifespan who knows when I would have been able
to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been fish
food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock, chasing
3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to get it
landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a sand
storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00 dollar
fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far in
the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75 more.
Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's to go
in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the 30.
The zoo's are looking like they are going to recover
from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking too
good yesterday :(
Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown after
all :(
I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait until
after the holidays.
Wish me luck.





____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24840 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I call my damsels, the fish gatti clan


----- Original Message ----
From: Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 10:26:26 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
getting skeptical about that one!
My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.

My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
et...
What fishes are you considering?
My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
now..lol
Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
Maybe we can learn together.
stacey

--- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net> wrote:

> lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> lesson. Clean-up crews
> are not
> for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> would
> > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> and
> > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> good
> > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> they
> > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> could
> > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> damsels.
> > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> up
> > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> them
> > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> it.
> > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> with
> > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> able
> > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> fish
> > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> chasing
> > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> get it
> > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> sand
> > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> dollar
> > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> in
> > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> more.
> > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> to go
> > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> 30.
> > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> recover
> > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> too
> > good yesterday :(
> > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> after
> > all :(
> > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> until
> > after the holidays.
> > Wish me luck.
> >
> >
>





____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24841 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
quite an expensive lesson for me.










----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol
> Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> Maybe we can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > are not
> > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>




____________________________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24842 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Hi Marsha, Yes, I tried the re-landscaping before this
but the damsels consider the whole tank as theirs.
Finally I am able to enjoy a peaceful tank, and will
be much more selective in future aquistions. I did not
cycle with them. They were the first one's purchased
on the advice of LFS.
I love the soda pop idea. I will keep that in mind for
future use.
Thanks all for listening to my 'tails' of woe.
Stace
--- marsha wilburn <alien8mipussy@...> wrote:

> I too like you have had the same problem. I cycled
> my tank with damsels, that i could not bear to
> destroy afterwards. The simplest solution for me
> was to change the landscaping in the tank. that
> confused them and they had to set up new territory.
> also, i don't know if u have heard of it, but u can
> use a plastic soda bottle with bait to catch them
> also.

>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24843 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
To step in here,,,,,,,,, you must use RO in most cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green Chromis (sweet as pie )
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Frog Dog
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_. The same bad fish dude
told me filtered water was OK.
I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( , so many things to
learn.....

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Are you usin Ro water?
> Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying Instants
> Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems with it
> disolving but I think the box got wet before purchase.
>
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> > lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> > to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> > a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> > despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> > the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> > probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> > hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> > stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing
> > them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> > hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> > balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> > not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> > just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> > eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> > bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> > wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> > -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> > put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> > and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> > the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> > the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> > I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> > am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> > too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> > out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> > get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> > for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> > on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> > a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> > :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> > They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> > caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> > worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> > were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> > you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> > him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> > 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> > caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> > make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> > in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> > but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> > been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> > the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> > been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > > chasing
> > > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> > to
> > > > get it
> > > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> > in a
> > > > sand
> > > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> > 3.00
> > > > dollar
> > > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> > on
> > > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> > far
> > > > in
> > > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> > 75
> > > > more.
> > > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> > get's
> > > > to go
> > > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> > the
> > > > 30.
> > > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > > recover
> > > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> > looking
> > > > too
> > > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> > wasn't
> > > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> > clown
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24844 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/4/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
quite an expensive lesson for me.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol
> Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> Maybe we can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > are not
> > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

__________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24845 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Note to self... No Coral Banded Shrimp!

Jodie

marsha wilburn wrote:
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in
> my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a
> coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a
> week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3
> times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
> have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
> Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
> a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
> is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
> said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
> sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
> enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
> changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
> since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
> was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
> gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> > getting skeptical about that one!
> > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
> >
> > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> > et...
> > What fishes are you considering?
> > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > now..lol
> > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> > Maybe we can learn together.
> > stacey
> >
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
> >
> > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > are not
> > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > would
> > > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > > and
> > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > > good
> > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > > they
> > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > could
> > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > damsels.
> > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > > up
> > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > > them
> > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > > it.
> > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > > with
> > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > > able
> > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > > fish
> > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > chasing
> > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > > get it
> > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > > sand
> > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > > dollar
> > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > > in
> > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > > more.
> > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > > to go
> > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > > 30.
> > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > recover
> > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > > too
> > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > > after
> > > > all :(
> > > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > > until
> > > > after the holidays.
> > > > Wish me luck.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> __________________________________________________________
> Be a better pen pal.
> Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.
> http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/ <http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24846 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Eco Aqualizer
Does any one use this? What are their comments on it?

Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24847 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I know!! I almost bought one, but got the peppermint
shrimp. Thank goodness I didn't. That is a very good
lesson.
stace
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> Note to self... No Coral Banded Shrimp!
>
> Jodie
>
> marsha wilburn wrote:
> >
> > I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy.
> I had 8 of them in
> > my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day
> i decided to buy a
> > coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and
> behold, within a
> > week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were
> gone, and my CBS is 3
> > times the size.
> > quite an expensive lesson for me.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type
> of lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> fighting a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it
> is the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing
> them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the
> sand bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I
> was wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> them -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If
> you put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called
> mine the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The
> way the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some
> rock I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point
> him out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going
> to get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good
> fish for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about
> a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> info on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today,
> even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell
> into a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future
> plans :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a
> valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean
> up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or
> I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also
> tell you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean
> I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole
> tank, 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very
> aggessive in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of
> rock,
> > > > chasing
>
=== message truncated ===
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24849 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Eco Aqualizer
I'm not sure if you Googled it but here's a few reviews:

Also do a key word search of this group as I'm sure it has come up before.

Con - http://www.rexgrigg.com/debunked.htm

Pro -
http://www.saltcorner.com/sections/reviews/productreviews/ecoaqualizer.htm
(Remember that some "reviews" are paid for)

User Test Forum Thread -
http://www.reefpark.co.uk/bb/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2534

Another Test Forum Thread -
http://www.reefpark.co.uk/bb/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2573

A mostly con forum thread -
http://reefs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=294140&sid=4cc8f9d055d935f835bfc2e15
c39c479

Another mostly con forum thread -
http://www.oscarfish.com/discussion/eco-aqualizer-vt49116.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 7:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Eco Aqualizer

Does any one use this? What are their comments on it?

Jodie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.14/1171 - Release Date: 12/4/2007
7:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24850 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Sissy
Sissy, Now why haven't you stepped in before? ;)
Here's Froggy and I (2 complete SWT clueless folks
swimming against the current...lol)
We give each other advice and both of us are complete
newbs.
Thanks for enlighting me to Instant Ocean. So, you see
no more benefit between it and Reef Crystals. The Reef
CRystal were harder to disolve, but maybe mine had
gotten wet at some point.
Am I missing something in water quality that had
slowed down verts, and now they are more active? I did
raise my salinity to 1.025 from 1.023 (slowly) on the
advice of someone who has been in the hobby a long
time. (well they say they have)They said my salinity
wasn't enough for corals???
But, with you having your own clients etc...it seems
you would be the better go too...lol
I visited your site. The pics are gorgeous. I really
appreciated the coral suggestions for lightening. I
added the site for future reference. I am assuming I
have moderate lighting since I don't have metal
halides. I didn't see anything for low lights though,
so I could put something on the bottom?????
Now, maybe I can find out for sure, will that brittle
star eat my fish and peppermint shrimp?? That thing
has grown to 7 inches.
Well, that is enough questions for now. I am sure I
will bug you more in the future ;)
stace

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> To step in here,,,,,,,,, you must use RO in most
> cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> Chromis (sweet as pie )
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frog Dog
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> The same bad fish dude
> told me filtered water was OK.
> I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> so many things to
> learn.....
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Are you usin Ro water?
> > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> Instants
> > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> with it
> > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> purchase.
> >
> > stace
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> >
> > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> type of
> > > lighting do you
> > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> hood.
> > >
> > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> Miller
> > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> Sand
> > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> blue-legged
> > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> -due
> > > to my ignorance.
> > >
> > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> fighting
> > > a nitrate and
> > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> high
> > > despite water
> > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> it is
> > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> will
> > > probably get more
> > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> pretty
> > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> :( I
> > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > said he never performs water changes, that
> doing
> > > them only creates a
> > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> become
> > > hardy because their
> > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> right
> > > balance, water
> > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> has
> > > not had a water change
> > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> that,
> > > just mentioning what I
> > > was told.
> > >
> > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> lay
> > > eggs that look like
> > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> the sand
> > > bed last night and
> > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> them.
> > >
> > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> I was
> > > wondering how you
> > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> them
> > > -and keep them alive?
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> If you
> > > put
> > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> out,
> > > and
> > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> called mine
> > > the
> > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> least
> > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> The way
> > > the
> > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> hardy
> > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> some rock
> > > I
> > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> It is
> > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > stick..lol
> > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> but I
> > > am
> > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> stick
> > > too.
> > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> inches
> > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > coralline,
> > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> point him
> > > out.
> > > >
> > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> going to
> > > get
> > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> good fish
> > > for
> > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> about a
> > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> info
> > > on
> > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > compatablity
> > > > et...
> > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> today, even
> > > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell
> into
> > > a
> > > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > > perturbed
> > > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is
> pouting
> > > > now..lol
> > > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future
> plans
> > > :)
> > > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > > stacey
> > > >
> > > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a
> valuable
> > > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > > are not
> > > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to
> clean up.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jodie
> > > > >
>
=== message truncated ===
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24851 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Coral banded shrimp
Any suggestions what was?
stace
--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy.
> I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word
> is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded
> shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within
> a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were
> gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24852 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Sissy
The LFS guy told me that invertebrates need higher salinity than fish.
But he is
also the one that told me filtered water was ok rather than RO, and WCs
weren't necessary.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Sissy, Now why haven't you stepped in before? ;)
> Here's Froggy and I (2 complete SWT clueless folks
> swimming against the current...lol)
> We give each other advice and both of us are complete
> newbs.
> Thanks for enlighting me to Instant Ocean. So, you see
> no more benefit between it and Reef Crystals. The Reef
> CRystal were harder to disolve, but maybe mine had
> gotten wet at some point.
> Am I missing something in water quality that had
> slowed down verts, and now they are more active? I did
> raise my salinity to 1.025 from 1.023 (slowly) on the
> advice of someone who has been in the hobby a long
> time. (well they say they have)They said my salinity
> wasn't enough for corals???
> But, with you having your own clients etc...it seems
> you would be the better go too...lol
> I visited your site. The pics are gorgeous. I really
> appreciated the coral suggestions for lightening. I
> added the site for future reference. I am assuming I
> have moderate lighting since I don't have metal
> halides. I didn't see anything for low lights though,
> so I could put something on the bottom?????
> Now, maybe I can find out for sure, will that brittle
> star eat my fish and peppermint shrimp?? That thing
> has grown to 7 inches.
> Well, that is enough questions for now. I am sure I
> will bug you more in the future ;)
> stace
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...
> <mailto:ssathre%40suddenlink.net>> wrote:
>
> > To step in here,,,,,,,,, you must use RO in most
> > cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> > 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> > Chromis (sweet as pie )
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> > so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> > > > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell
> > into
> > > > a
> > > > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > > > perturbed
> > > > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is
> > pouting
> > > > > now..lol
> > > > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future
> > plans
> > > > :)
> > > > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > > > stacey
> > > > >
> > > > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > > > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a
> > valuable
> > > > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > > > are not
> > > > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to
> > clean up.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jodie
> > > > > >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24853 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Sissy, B-Ionic
A product suggested to me by the LFS. I needed B-Ionic
(but no test were done)
It is a two part system. Component 1 for Alkalinity
Component 2 for Calcium.
I have not used it, because after opening it up, I was
able to read the ingredients.
One has lithium, iron, nickle, copper. But also has
the other elements, of course. They are the one's that
concerned me in that bottle. The other bottle didn't
have anything that concerned me. I thought copper
built up in the rocks and could leach out? It seems to
be a lot of metals in that component? I bought it a
month ago, but never used it.
Your thoughts on this?
stace
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24854 From: ronald canlas Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: shrimp prices
anybody here know the current prices of black tiger shrimps for 20 counts, 30 counts, 40 counts, and so forth...
pls i need data...

per country also..

u know any links related to this pls post them as soon as possible


----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 5:47:00 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Note to self... No Coral Banded Shrimp!

Jodie

marsha wilburn wrote:
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in
> my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a
> coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a
> week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3
> times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> >
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com <mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
> have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
> Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
> a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
> is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
> said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
> sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
> enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
> changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
> since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
> was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
> gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> > getting skeptical about that one!
> > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
> >
> > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> > et...
> > What fishes are you considering?
> > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > now..lol
> > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> > Maybe we can learn together.
> > stacey
> >
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
> >
> > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > are not
> > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > would
> > > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > > and
> > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > > good
> > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > > they
> > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > could
> > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > damsels.
> > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > > up
> > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > > them
> > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > > it.
> > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > > with
> > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > > able
> > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > > fish
> > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > chasing
> > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > > get it
> > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > > sand
> > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > > dollar
> > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > > in
> > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > > more.
> > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > > to go
> > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > > 30.
> > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > recover
> > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > > too
> > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > > after
> > > > all :(
> > > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > > until
> > > > after the holidays.
> > > > Wish me luck.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Be a better pen pal.
> Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.
> http://overview. mail.yahoo. com/ <http://overview. mail.yahoo. com/>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>





____________________________________________________
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://ph.mail.yahoo.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24855 From: Carmen H Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: shrimp prices
Have you checked aquabid?
Carmen

On Dec 5, 2007 8:23 AM, ronald canlas <canlasro@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> anybody here know the current prices of black tiger shrimps for 20 counts,
> 30 counts, 40 counts, and so forth...
> pls i need data...
>
> per country also..
>
> u know any links related to this pls post them as soon as possible
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 5:47:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Note to self... No Coral Banded Shrimp!
>
> Jodie
>
> marsha wilburn wrote:
> >
> > I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in
> > my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a
> > coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a
> > week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3
> > times the size.
> > quite an expensive lesson for me.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> >
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com <mailto:AquaticLife %40yahoogroups. com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > > chasing
> > > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > > > get it
> > > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > > > sand
> > > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > > > dollar
> > > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > > > in
> > > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > > > more.
> > > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > > > to go
> > > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > > > 30.
> > > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > > recover
> > > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > > > too
> > > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > > > after
> > > > > all :(
> > > > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > > > until
> > > > > after the holidays.
> > > > > Wish me luck.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> > Be a better pen pal.
> > Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how.
> > http://overview. mail.yahoo. com/ <http://overview. mail.yahoo. com/>
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> ____________________________________________________
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://ph.mail.yahoo.com
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



--

Carmen and the pack
Pawzie-tively Precious American Eskimo Rescue
http://www.reskie.com
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24856 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
I must not have described properly, the dempseys are 2 inches max and
the albinos are a healthy 3 inches, a good percent larger than the
dempseys. I haven't seen any acts of aggression from the large
oscar, I believe partly from adding the jack dempseys back into the
tank. I do have eight severums successfully acclimated to the
african cichlid community tank, none have bred, but more than likely
because of the PH and the fact that none of them have matched as
partners yet. I will continue looking for signs of aggression but so
far I still have not seen any. I should also note that I did use
feeder fish often before learning they can do more bad than good for
the oscars. This may explain his temporary thought that he should
eat the smaller albinos. Often enough the goldfish were orange and
lighter too. I tried mixing a large african cichlid red
psuedotropheus, and even though he was way too big for the oscars
mouth, he tried relentlessly. I think I taught the aggression in the
first place.
Also, I arranged decorations in the tank so that the large oscar
cannot easily pass over, he likes swimming low in the tank, and the
albinos can squeeze through easily for cover. They've taken the bait
and stay on their designated sides of the tank.
Thank you for your input, I'm a 2 year aquarist and enjoy learning
first hand, but do appreciate all of the input.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24857 From: Angela Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: How to grow plants...
Ok... So I'm gonna ask the total newbie question. How do you successfully
grow live plants in a freshwater aquarium? I keep reading all these things
about CO2 and all sorts of things and it is a bit confusing. What do you
really need to grow them. Also is flourescent light and daylight enough or
so I need PC or VHO lighting? Thank you!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24858 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
Angela,

For most plants Fluoroscent is enough. As a newbie, I would suggest you try
out some hardy low light plants if your tank as a couple of fluorescent
strip lights. They are pretty easy to grow but you cannot rely on daylight
or room lighting for growing plants.



CO2, VHO etc. kick in when you want to grow slightly difficult plants and
there is a lot more to it then just CO2 and lighting but I will not venture
into it.



For the moment as a starter, keep it simple, learn and then if you are
confident with plants and their growth & requirements then think about
venturing into hi-tech.



Some easy to grow plants are: Amazon swords, Valliseneria, Most Hygrophylla,
cryptocorenes, ludwigia repens, egeria, cabomba etc.



Nim



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Angela
Sent: 05 December 2007 16:37
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...



Ok... So I'm gonna ask the total newbie question. How do you successfully
grow live plants in a freshwater aquarium? I keep reading all these things
about CO2 and all sorts of things and it is a bit confusing. What do you
really need to grow them. Also is flourescent light and daylight enough or
so I need PC or VHO lighting? Thank you!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24859 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
I got some of the bulbs from Wal Mart. Not everyone grew but I
now have plants in all my aquariums except the one that is
really deep. That one would require special lighting.

Traci Swatek-Rice
Hazmat Technician
DMOS5 manufacturing
Texas Instruments
<>< <>< <>< <>< <><


________________________________

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Angela
Sent: Wed 12/5/2007 10:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...



Ok... So I'm gonna ask the total newbie question. How do you successfully
grow live plants in a freshwater aquarium? I keep reading all these things
about CO2 and all sorts of things and it is a bit confusing. What do you
really need to grow them. Also is flourescent light and daylight enough or
so I need PC or VHO lighting? Thank you!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24860 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
Glad to hear you're interested! I messaged you :)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24861 From: Angela Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...
I am looking at Crytocoryne lingua, Christmas moss, Marimo balls, Nymphaea
rubra and Windelov's fern. From what I'm being told these are all easy
species to keep. Though I have been lied to many times by LFS employees. Is
anyone familiar with these plants? Would they be good started plants? How do
you attach them to driftwood? Thank you again!
Angela

-------Original Message-------

From: Nimish Mathur
Date: 12/05/07 11:58:53
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] RE: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...

Angela,

For most plants Fluoroscent is enough. As a newbie, I would suggest you try
out some hardy low light plants if your tank as a couple of fluorescent
strip lights. They are pretty easy to grow but you cannot rely on daylight
or room lighting for growing plants.

CO2, VHO etc. kick in when you want to grow slightly difficult plants and
there is a lot more to it then just CO2 and lighting but I will not venture
into it.

For the moment as a starter, keep it simple, learn and then if you are
confident with plants and their growth & requirements then think about
venturing into hi-tech.

Some easy to grow plants are: Amazon swords, Valliseneria, Most Hygrophylla,
cryptocorenes, ludwigia repens, egeria, cabomba etc.

Nim

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Angela
Sent: 05 December 2007 16:37
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...

Ok... So I'm gonna ask the total newbie question. How do you successfully
grow live plants in a freshwater aquarium? I keep reading all these things
about CO2 and all sorts of things and it is a bit confusing. What do you
really need to grow them. Also is flourescent light and daylight enough or
so I need PC or VHO lighting? Thank you!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24863 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
I put a couple photos of the oscar's tank on the album page, look for
Deberhardt. Also there are a couple photos of my community tank.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24864 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Sissy
Hi Stacey, Reef Crystals is suppose to be fast dissolving and it has more calcium in it than IO , both are made by the same company.
IO is the #1 selling salt in the world and I have spawned and raised Kuda,Reidi, and Kelloggi seahorses, Percula, cinnamon, and maroon clowns, dragon and clown gobys in it,so I trust it. I keep any tanks with inverts @ 1.023-1.024, I keep fish only @1.017-1.022, lower salinity keep parasites at bay. All new fish are placed in aquariums with ultra violet sterilizer for 3-4 weeks before placed in the main aquarium.
Thanks for visiting my web page, I have been super busy with work and have not had time to work on it and a while. I'm just getting the coral lighting and descriptions started. But some low light corals are Mushrooms,colt coral,star polyp,Zoanthid polyps, cabbage leather,toadstool leather and button polyps.
Most brittle star will not catch and eat your fish,corals, shrimp or any other thing in your aquarium. They are scavengers and they will eat any thing that dies.This is why people think they killed the fish or what ever they see they with, but they only caught it after it was dying or dead. Now the Green brittle star can get up to 24" across,and they have been reported to catch fish at night while the fish is sleeping in a hole,nooks,or crannies in the rock. They need to be feed, so hand him a piece of shrimp ounce or twice a week so he don't starve and try to catch your fish. Raw prawn shrimp about 1/2 the size of his disk.
Hope this helps!
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Stacey Riga
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 8:39 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sissy


Sissy, Now why haven't you stepped in before? ;)
Here's Froggy and I (2 complete SWT clueless folks
swimming against the current...lol)
We give each other advice and both of us are complete
newbs.
Thanks for enlighting me to Instant Ocean. So, you see
no more benefit between it and Reef Crystals. The Reef
CRystal were harder to disolve, but maybe mine had
gotten wet at some point.
Am I missing something in water quality that had
slowed down verts, and now they are more active? I did
raise my salinity to 1.025 from 1.023 (slowly) on the
advice of someone who has been in the hobby a long
time. (well they say they have)They said my salinity
wasn't enough for corals???
But, with you having your own clients etc...it seems
you would be the better go too...lol
I visited your site. The pics are gorgeous. I really
appreciated the coral suggestions for lightening. I
added the site for future reference. I am assuming I
have moderate lighting since I don't have metal
halides. I didn't see anything for low lights though,
so I could put something on the bottom?????
Now, maybe I can find out for sure, will that brittle
star eat my fish and peppermint shrimp?? That thing
has grown to 7 inches.
Well, that is enough questions for now. I am sure I
will bug you more in the future ;)
stace

--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> To step in here,,,,,,,,, you must use RO in most
> cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> Chromis (sweet as pie )
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frog Dog
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> The same bad fish dude
> told me filtered water was OK.
> I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> so many things to
> learn.....
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Are you usin Ro water?
> > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> Instants
> > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> with it
> > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> purchase.
> >
> > stace
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> >
> > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> type of
> > > lighting do you
> > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> hood.
> > >
> > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> Miller
> > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> Sand
> > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> blue-legged
> > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> -due
> > > to my ignorance.
> > >
> > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> fighting
> > > a nitrate and
> > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> high
> > > despite water
> > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> it is
> > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> will
> > > probably get more
> > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> pretty
> > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> :( I
> > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > said he never performs water changes, that
> doing
> > > them only creates a
> > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> become
> > > hardy because their
> > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> right
> > > balance, water
> > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> has
> > > not had a water change
> > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> that,
> > > just mentioning what I
> > > was told.
> > >
> > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> lay
> > > eggs that look like
> > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> the sand
> > > bed last night and
> > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> them.
> > >
> > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> I was
> > > wondering how you
> > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> them
> > > -and keep them alive?
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> If you
> > > put
> > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> out,
> > > and
> > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> called mine
> > > the
> > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> least
> > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> The way
> > > the
> > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> hardy
> > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> some rock
> > > I
> > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> It is
> > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > stick..lol
> > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> but I
> > > am
> > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> stick
> > > too.
> > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> inches
> > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > coralline,
> > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> point him
> > > out.
> > > >
> > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> going to
> > > get
> > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> good fish
> > > for
> > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> about a
> > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> info
> > > on
> > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > compatablity
> > > > et...
> > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> today, even
> > > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell
> into
> > > a
> > > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > > perturbed
> > > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is
> pouting
> > > > now..lol
> > > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future
> plans
> > > :)
> > > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > > stacey
> > > >
> > > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@...
> <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
> > > <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a
> valuable
> > > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > > are not
> > > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to
> clean up.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jodie
> > > > >
>
=== message truncated ===






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24865 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Hard to say,what happened, but I never heard of CB shrimp hurting anything, especialy urchins. Urchins they are sensitive to Nitrate and poor water quality.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Stacey Riga
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 8:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp


Any suggestions what was?
stace
--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy.
> I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word
> is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded
> shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within
> a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were
> gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>





------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24866 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: Oscar Question
Seems like the numeral 4 in your first post (as the quantity) must
have stuck with me as the size of the Dempsey's. In checking back, I
do see your reference to them being 2". Your adding them back in
with the Tiger (Oscar) may have helped relinquish some of his
aggression -- and, you just may be lucky in that the large Oscar may
be getting used to, and accepting the Albinos.

Since you mentioned the red Pseudotropheus and your trying to mix it
with the large Oscar, I have a strong feeling you've tried
introducing all these fish in daylight. New fish (especially
Cichlids) should never be introduced to a tank of already established
fish except after lights out to help ensure that the newbies have a
chance of slowly adapting to their new tank, and the established
tankmates a chance to slowly accept them as the new day dawns the
following morning. This may partially explain the problems you've
had with your Oscars.

While I may not need to remind you, ideally you should not be keeping
Severums with African (assumed -- Rift Lake?) Cichlids. If these
fish with the Severum are more Mbuna (Pseudotrpheus, Metriaclima,
etc.) they prefer a pH of 8.2 or better, whereas the 8 Severum really
prefer a pH below 7.0 (in the acid range) even though they'll adapt
to a somewhat higher pH. You may be attempting to keep both types
in a "happy medium" of a pH range, but again this still does not take
into account their different behavioral communications. I'd suggest
rectifying this situation in the near future if at all possible to
prevent unforseen problems.

No, you really didn't teach the large Oscar any aggression, but you
did encourage it if you added new (and smaller) fish to his tank in
daylight, as mentioned above. Your rearranging the decorations to
break up the line of sight should help defuse matters, although I'd
still keep an eye on them. Aggression can break out when you least
expect it, not that it necessarily will, but this is not always easy
to predict. Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> I must not have described properly, the dempseys are 2 inches max
and
> the albinos are a healthy 3 inches, a good percent larger than the
> dempseys. I haven't seen any acts of aggression from the large
> oscar, I believe partly from adding the jack dempseys back into the
> tank. I do have eight severums successfully acclimated to the
> african cichlid community tank, none have bred, but more than
likely
> because of the PH and the fact that none of them have matched as
> partners yet. I will continue looking for signs of aggression but
so
> far I still have not seen any. I should also note that I did use
> feeder fish often before learning they can do more bad than good
for
> the oscars. This may explain his temporary thought that he should
> eat the smaller albinos. Often enough the goldfish were orange and
> lighter too. I tried mixing a large african cichlid red
> psuedotropheus, and even though he was way too big for the oscars
> mouth, he tried relentlessly. I think I taught the aggression in
the
> first place.
> Also, I arranged decorations in the tank so that the large oscar
> cannot easily pass over, he likes swimming low in the tank, and the
> albinos can squeeze through easily for cover. They've taken the
bait
> and stay on their designated sides of the tank.
> Thank you for your input, I'm a 2 year aquarist and enjoy learning
> first hand, but do appreciate all of the input.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24867 From: Cezare Almeda Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: new member from manila
hello. this is cez. this is my first time to join an
aquarium group. been in the hobby for a long time.
have several tanks but mostly fresh water. will try to
upload some pictures within the week. best wishes to AquaticLife!



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24868 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
If you go with easy and very easy plants, all you need is a normal aquarium
set up with no special lighting, CO2, fertilizers, etc.

Here's a couple of pages of very easy and easy low-light plants.
http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=2

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide_list.php?category=2&filter_by=3

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Angela
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 10:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] How to grow plants...

Ok... So I'm gonna ask the total newbie question. How do you successfully
grow live plants in a freshwater aquarium? I keep reading all these things
about CO2 and all sorts of things and it is a bit confusing. What do you
really need to grow them. Also is flourescent light and daylight enough or
so I need PC or VHO lighting? Thank you!
Angela


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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7:31 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24869 From: bmp Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: new member from manila
Hi Cez,

Welcome to the group. My name is Beverly and I live in
south Texas. I keep only freshwater tropicals and
enjoy the hobby because of the chance to bring nature
into my home and help it along.

I hope you will enjoy your time in the group.

Best regards,
Beverly

--- Cezare Almeda <cezarealmeda@...> wrote:

> hello. this is cez. this is my first time to join an
> aquarium group. been in the hobby for a long time.
> have several tanks but mostly fresh water. will try
> to
> upload some pictures within the week. best wishes to
> AquaticLife!
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________
>
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around
> http://ph.mail.yahoo.com
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24870 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: How to grow plants...
I agree with you lenny Depending on plants chosen you can have a well
planted aquarium with nothing special.

Joey



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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24871 From: cezarealmeda Date: 12/5/2007
Subject: Re: new member from manila
thank you Beverly for the warm welcome. i know i will enjoy the group and hopefully share
my hobby with you all. i uploaded some pictures of my tank. its all plants now but intend to
put some neon tetras when the plants become established. will upload some pics of my other
tanks as well... cez
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24872 From: Daisy Crazy Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Does anyone on here breed feeder fish?
I hear you on that one I m almost afraid that I wount be able to feed the to anything. I iam beginning to really like them.

Susan Mrenna <mail4sdm2@...> wrote: I have Endler's livebearers. I think they are prettier than the feeder
guppies. About the same size and endlessly prolific. They do not eat the
young.
I saw rubbermaid tubs mentioned and the work great. Provide aeration and
filtration. No gravel needed. If you decorate at all make sure it is with
something easy to remove. More water changes make for faster growth. Keep
the females and only feed males. It does take a while to build the
population at first. Be prepared to grow attached to the feeders. It is
different when you care for them every day. Susan


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24873 From: Paula Brown Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Cichlid Disease
I was recently at a new LFS in the area and found the owner to appear to be extremely knowledgable about his tanks (though the shop was a total mess - very overcrowded). The customer in front of me said that his Oscar had (I think) hole in the head or head rot - something like that. He said how many medications he had tried but it wouldn't go away. The owner of the store sold him a container of earth worms (as in fishing worms) - he said that it would clear up the problem right away.

I am not a Cichlid fan by any means - just passing along some info (good or bad) that I heard.

Paula
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24874 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Cichlid Disease
I've read that it can be caused by diet so that very well could be a start
in the right direction. I'm not sure it will clear it up right away though
as it's generally caused by poor water conditions since so many Oscars are
kept in undersized tanks. (And if you take the barb off a fishing hook, you
can have some fun practicing your catch and release skills for fishing too.
I bet a nice sized Oscar would put up a good fight! LOL) Besides Goldfish,
Oscars and Plecos are some of the most abused fish for being stuck in
severely undersized tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Paula Brown
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 1:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Cichlid Disease

I was recently at a new LFS in the area and found the owner to appear to be
extremely knowledgable about his tanks (though the shop was a total mess -
very overcrowded). The customer in front of me said that his Oscar had (I
think) hole in the head or head rot - something like that. He said how many
medications he had tried but it wouldn't go away. The owner of the store
sold him a container of earth worms (as in fishing worms) - he said that it
would clear up the problem right away.

I am not a Cichlid fan by any means - just passing along some info (good or
bad) that I heard.

Paula



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.15/1173 - Release Date: 12/5/2007
9:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24875 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
I did check there, there's nothing :( I've never actually used my yahoo
mail before (I just have it because I signed up for the groups). Could
you email me at hummelbee3@...? I'd appreciate it!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24876 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
glad to hear u exhausted all ideas before going on the tear up journey. i have switched to an aggressive tank now, thinking that the damsels would not be able to bully my trigger,wrasse,and eel. they have been in there for a week now and the damsels and clowns are terrorizing my so called aggressive crew.


----- Original Message ----
From: Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:30:16 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Hi Marsha, Yes, I tried the re-landscaping before this
but the damsels consider the whole tank as theirs.
Finally I am able to enjoy a peaceful tank, and will
be much more selective in future aquistions. I did not
cycle with them. They were the first one's purchased
on the advice of LFS.
I love the soda pop idea. I will keep that in mind for
future use.
Thanks all for listening to my 'tails' of woe.
Stace
--- marsha wilburn <alien8mipussy@ yahoo.com> wrote:

> I too like you have had the same problem. I cycled
> my tank with damsels, that i could not bear to
> destroy afterwards. The simplest solution for me
> was to change the landscaping in the tank. that
> confused them and they had to set up new territory.
> also, i don't know if u have heard of it, but u can
> use a plastic soda bottle with bait to catch them
> also.

>
>
>
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> http://www.yahoo com/r/hs
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>





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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24877 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I myself had, and again the operative word here is had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on me. they killed one another until there were 2 left, then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos. i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in the damsel family.





----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green Chromis (sweet as pie )
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Frog Dog
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_. The same bad fish dude
told me filtered water was OK.
I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( , so many things to
learn.....

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Are you usin Ro water?
> Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying Instants
> Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems with it
> disolving but I think the box got wet before purchase.
>
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> > lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> > to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> > a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> > despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> > the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> > probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> > hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> > stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing
> > them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> > hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> > balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> > not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> > just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> > eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> > bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> > wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> > -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> > put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> > and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> > the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> > the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> > I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> > am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> > too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> > out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> > get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> > for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> > on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> > a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> > :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> > They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> > caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> > worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> > were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> > you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> > him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> > 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> > caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> > make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> > in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> > but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> > been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> > the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> > been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > > chasing
> > > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> > to
> > > > get it
> > > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> > in a
> > > > sand
> > > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> > 3.00
> > > > dollar
> > > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> > on
> > > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> > far
> > > > in
> > > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> > 75
> > > > more.
> > > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> > get's
> > > > to go
> > > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> > the
> > > > 30.
> > > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > > recover
> > > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> > looking
> > > > too
> > > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> > wasn't
> > > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> > clown
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24878 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms from my sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating the knobs from the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed 4 times in the last 6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to catch the fish in the tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that did the dirty deed.
I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could have worked on the water.








----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
quite an expensive lesson for me.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol
> Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> Maybe we can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > are not
> > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24879 From: marsha wilburn Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
I belong to several other message boards, and have heard people repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had to be removed due to causing death.








----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 2:28:41 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp

Hard to say,what happened, but I never heard of CB shrimp hurting anything, especialy urchins. Urchins they are sensitive to Nitrate and poor water quality.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Stacey Riga
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 8:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp

Any suggestions what was?
stace
--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@suddenlink. net> wrote:

> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy.
> I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word
> is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded
> shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within
> a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were
> gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24880 From: rcdtrc Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Piranha
what would be the best food for piranhas?
is it ok to feed them scallops?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24881 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (bulb
Has anyone ever bought a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed and some didn't
grow? I bought some before and some didn't grow and had to return it for
replacement, the replacements grew. I bought again and some didn't grow and
returned it for replacement but I haven't received a replacement yet. I
e-mailed their company but they haven't replied yet. It's been about 2 weeks
since I sent the package. I bought it from Petco but the manufacturer is
Aquariumplants.com and they have a guarantee on the package that if the seed
(bulb) don't grow then send the seed with a receipt and they will send a
replacement immediately.

Thanks for any info you could give me.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24882 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
You have had a total different experience with the green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


I myself had, and again the operative word here is had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on me. they killed one another until there were 2 left, then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos. i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in the damsel family.

----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green Chromis (sweet as pie )
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Frog Dog
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_. The same bad fish dude
told me filtered water was OK.
I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( , so many things to
learn.....

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Are you usin Ro water?
> Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying Instants
> Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems with it
> disolving but I think the box got wet before purchase.
>
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > Where did you get your live rock from? What type of
> > lighting do you
> > have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.
> >
> > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller
> > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand
> > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged
> > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > little poly frag. I lost
> > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due
> > to my ignorance.
> >
> > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting
> > a nitrate and
> > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high
> > despite water
> > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is
> > the diatoms). I'd
> > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will
> > probably get more
> > urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty
> > hardy! I'm learning what
> > is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I
> > stopped by a LFS who
> > said he never performs water changes, that doing
> > them only creates a
> > sterilized environment, and that fish never become
> > hardy because their
> > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> > balance, water
> > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has
> > not had a water change
> > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that,
> > just mentioning what I
> > was told.
> >
> > Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay
> > eggs that look like
> > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand
> > bed last night and
> > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
> >
> > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was
> > wondering how you
> > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them
> > -and keep them alive?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you
> > put
> > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> > and
> > > they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine
> > the
> > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way
> > the
> > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock
> > I
> > > got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > stick..lol
> > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I
> > am
> > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick
> > too.
> > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > coralline,
> > > no one can tell he is in there unless I point him
> > out.
> > >
> > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to
> > get
> > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish
> > for
> > > beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info
> > on
> > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > compatablity
> > > et...
> > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> > > after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into
> > a
> > > crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit
> > perturbed
> > > with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> > > now..lol
> > > Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans
> > :)
> > > Maybe we can learn together.
> > > stacey
> > >
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net>
> > <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > > > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > > > are not
> > > > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > > > would
> > > > > never be able to put anything else in there.
> > They
> > > > > became very territorial, and had lot's of
> > caves
> > > > and
> > > > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS
> > worker
> > > > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they
> > were
> > > > good
> > > > > fish to start out with. They should also tell
> > you
> > > > they
> > > > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > > > could
> > > > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > > > damsels.
> > > > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating
> > him
> > > > up
> > > > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank,
> > 90
> > > > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally
> > caught
> > > > them
> > > > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't
> > make
> > > > it.
> > > > > After a while I finally became very aggessive
> > in
> > > > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about,
> > but
> > > > with
> > > > > their lifespan who knows when I would have
> > been
> > > > able
> > > > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put
> > the
> > > > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have
> > been
> > > > fish
> > > > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > > > chasing
> > > > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try
> > to
> > > > get it
> > > > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was
> > in a
> > > > sand
> > > > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have
> > 3.00
> > > > dollar
> > > > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited
> > on
> > > > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so
> > far
> > > > in
> > > > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the
> > 75
> > > > more.
> > > > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew)
> > get's
> > > > to go
> > > > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to
> > the
> > > > 30.
> > > > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > > > recover
> > > > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't
> > looking
> > > > too
> > > > > good yesterday :(
> > > > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water
> > wasn't
> > > > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the
> > clown
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24883 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Same thing, never had a CB shrimp kill anything, and again they are in almost every SW tank I maintain as well as my own.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms from my sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating the knobs from the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed 4 times in the last 6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to catch the fish in the tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that did the dirty deed.
I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could have worked on the water.

----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
quite an expensive lesson for me.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you
have? We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9
Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged
crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost
a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what
is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who
said he never performs water changes, that doing them only creates a
sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy because their
enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right balance, water
changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not had a water change
since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just mentioning what I
was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and
gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels. If you put
> Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out, and
> they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the
> Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least
> mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too. The way the
> swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be hardy
> too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
> got. After a few months that thing is big! It is
> interesting though. It will eat off of a stick..lol
> I haven't read where it will nab fish yet, but I am
> getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches
> across, and he blends in so well with the coralline,
> no one can tell he is in there unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get
> some neon gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for
> beginners. But, I read their life span is about a
> year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on
> types of fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity
> et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even
> after the sand storm shock..lol Then it fell into a
> crevice and I had to dig it out. It is a bit perturbed
> with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol
> Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
> Maybe we can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable
> > lesson. Clean-up crews
> > are not
> > for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They
> > > became very territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker
> > > when I first bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90
> > > pounds of rocks, and chased those lil bugga
> > > everywhere. It took forever but I finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in
> > > trying to catch them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the
> > > peppermint shrimp in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on
> > > adding anything else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~
> > > OH! And on top of that my new salt water wasn't
> > > completely cured. I hope I don't loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
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------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24884 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any info of they being killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill effects on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp sometimes.This is also my experance with them.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp


I belong to several other message boards, and have heard people repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had to be removed due to causing death.

----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 2:28:41 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp

Hard to say,what happened, but I never heard of CB shrimp hurting anything, especialy urchins. Urchins they are sensitive to Nitrate and poor water quality.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Stacey Riga
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2007 8:41 AM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp

Any suggestions what was?
stace
--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@suddenlink. net> wrote:

> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy.
> I had 8 of them in my 55gal. yes, the operative word
> is had. One day i decided to buy a coral banded
> shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within
> a week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were
> gone, and my CBS is 3 times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>

------------ --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- -

Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

__________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24885 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Marsha, Marsha, Marsha...

(Sorry, had to do it even though it shows my age.. lol)

So... did you name the CBS Damien or Hannibal or maybe Chucky? Sounds like
either name would be appropriate.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 9:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Same thing, never had a CB shrimp kill anything, and again they are in
almost every SW tank I maintain as well as my own.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms from my
sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating the knobs from
the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed 4 times in the last
6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to catch the fish in the
tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that did the dirty deed.
I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could have
worked on the water.

----- Original Message ----
From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@... <mailto:ssathre%40suddenlink.net>
>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
----- Original Message -----
From: marsha wilburn
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my
55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral
banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my
urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the
size.
quite an expensive lesson for me.

----- Original Message ----
From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you have?
We're thinking of making our own light hood.

Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp, a
Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9 Nassarius
Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged crab, and 1
red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost a Mexican Turbo
and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.

Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and diatom
issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water changes, -Ammonia,
PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite to help battle brown
diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd like a clown and an
Anemone -some day... We will probably get more urchins, these little buggers
seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what is hardy and what is not by trial
and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who said he never performs water changes,
that doing them only creates a sterilized environment, and that fish never
become hardy because their enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
right balance, water changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not
had a water change since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just
mentioning what I was told.

Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like poppy
seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and gone this
morning, I assume some thing ate them.

Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you keep
them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn from me
> on damsels. If you put Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
> and they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the Blue
> Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least mine is small. He is a
> cute lil bugga too. The way the swim to too adorable. They are suppose
> to be hardy too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I got.
> After a few months that thing is big! It is interesting though. It
> will eat off of a stick..lol I haven't read where it will nab fish
> yet, but I am getting skeptical about that one!
> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches across, and he
> blends in so well with the coralline, no one can tell he is in there
> unless I point him out.
>
> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get some neon
> gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for beginners. But, I read
> their life span is about a year. :( I bought a book called, "The
> Marine Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on types of
> fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity et...
> What fishes are you considering?
> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even after the sand
> storm shock..lol Then it fell into a crevice and I had to dig it out.
> It is a bit perturbed with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
> now..lol Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :) Maybe we
> can learn together.
> stacey
>
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>
> > lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up
> > crews are not for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
> > > I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
> > would
> > > never be able to put anything else in there. They became very
> > > territorial, and had lot's of caves
> > and
> > > hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker when I first
> > > bought my 75g and was told they were
> > good
> > > fish to start out with. They should also tell you
> > they
> > > get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
> > could
> > > put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
> > damsels.
> > > I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
> > up
> > > real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90 pounds of rocks,
> > > and chased those lil bugga everywhere. It took forever but I
> > > finally caught
> > them
> > > and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
> > it.
> > > After a while I finally became very aggessive in trying to catch
> > > them. I feel awefull about, but
> > with
> > > their lifespan who knows when I would have been
> > able
> > > to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the peppermint shrimp
> > > in yet, or he would have been
> > fish
> > > food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
> > chasing
> > > 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
> > get it
> > > landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
> > sand
> > > storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
> > dollar
> > > fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on adding anything
> > > else. The damsels are happy so far
> > in
> > > the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
> > more.
> > > Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
> > to go
> > > in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
> > 30.
> > > The zoo's are looking like they are going to
> > recover
> > > from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
> > too
> > > good yesterday :(
> > > Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~ OH! And on top of
> > > that my new salt water wasn't completely cured. I hope I don't
> > > loose the clown
> > after
> > > all :(
> > > I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
> > until
> > > after the holidays.
> > > Wish me luck.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.15/1173 - Release Date: 12/5/2007
9:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24886 From: mkorday Date: 12/6/2007
Subject: Re: Piranha
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rcdtrc" <rcdtrc@...> wrote:
>
> what would be the best food for piranhas?
> is it ok to feed them scallops?
>
S dear
you have not mentioned the size of piranhas adult eats
guppys, goat heart(fridged) and make small pieces add spinach
everything which fit-in their mouth but beware of your hands
not to feed them with hands.

<milind>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24887 From: Donna Camp Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
You have me doing a double take with the phrase "cyanide caught". Please
tell me that isn't the cruel thing I think it may be.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


You have had a total different experience with the green chromis than I have
had in over 60 reef aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are cyanide
caught, and so they die off slowly, but if you buy net caught ,they live for
many years.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24888 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Hey Lenny...

Would you be Lenny of Lenny and Squiggy? (we must be about the same age) :)

Jodie

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> Marsha, Marsha, Marsha...
>
> (Sorry, had to do it even though it shows my age.. lol)
>
> So... did you name the CBS Damien or Hannibal or maybe Chucky? Sounds like
> either name would be appropriate.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Same thing, never had a CB shrimp kill anything, and again they are in
> almost every SW tank I maintain as well as my own.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms from my
> sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating the knobs from
> the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed 4 times in the last
> 6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to catch the fish in the
> tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that did the dirty deed.
> I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could have
> worked on the water.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@... <mailto:ssathre%40suddenlink.net>
>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in my
> 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a coral
> banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a week my
> urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3 times the
> size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you have?
> We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp, a
> Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting Crabs, 9 Nassarius
> Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1 scarlet legged crab, and 1
> red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag. I lost a Mexican Turbo
> and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and diatom
> issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water changes, -Ammonia,
> PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite to help battle brown
> diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd like a clown and an
> Anemone -some day... We will probably get more urchins, these little buggers
> seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning what is hardy and what is not by trial
> and error. :( I stopped by a LFS who said he never performs water changes,
> that doing them only creates a sterilized environment, and that fish never
> become hardy because their enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> right balance, water changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not
> had a water change since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just
> mentioning what I was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like poppy
> seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night and gone this
> morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you keep
> them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
>
>> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn from me
>> on damsels. If you put Damsels in a tank, you will never get them out,
>> and they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the Blue
>> Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least mine is small. He is a
>> cute lil bugga too. The way the swim to too adorable. They are suppose
>> to be hardy too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I got.
>> After a few months that thing is big! It is interesting though. It
>> will eat off of a stick..lol I haven't read where it will nab fish
>> yet, but I am getting skeptical about that one!
>> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
>> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches across, and he
>> blends in so well with the coralline, no one can tell he is in there
>> unless I point him out.
>>
>> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get some neon
>> gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for beginners. But, I read
>> their life span is about a year. :( I bought a book called, "The
>> Marine Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on types of
>> fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity et...
>> What fishes are you considering?
>> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even after the sand
>> storm shock..lol Then it fell into a crevice and I had to dig it out.
>> It is a bit perturbed with me now. :( It closed back up and is pouting
>> now..lol Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :) Maybe we
>> can learn together.
>> stacey
>>
>> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>>
>>
>>> lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up
>>> crews are not for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>> Stacey Riga wrote:
>>>
>>>> UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
>>>> I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
>>>>
>>> would
>>>
>>>> never be able to put anything else in there. They became very
>>>> territorial, and had lot's of caves
>>>>
>>> and
>>>
>>>> hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker when I first
>>>> bought my 75g and was told they were
>>>>
>>> good
>>>
>>>> fish to start out with. They should also tell you
>>>>
>>> they
>>>
>>>> get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
>>>>
>>> could
>>>
>>>> put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
>>>>
>>> damsels.
>>>
>>>> I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
>>>>
>>> up
>>>
>>>> real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90 pounds of rocks,
>>>> and chased those lil bugga everywhere. It took forever but I
>>>> finally caught
>>>>
>>> them
>>>
>>>> and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
>>>>
>>> it.
>>>
>>>> After a while I finally became very aggessive in trying to catch
>>>> them. I feel awefull about, but
>>>>
>>> with
>>>
>>>> their lifespan who knows when I would have been
>>>>
>>> able
>>>
>>>> to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the peppermint shrimp
>>>> in yet, or he would have been
>>>>
>>> fish
>>>
>>>> food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
>>>>
>>> chasing
>>>
>>>> 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
>>>>
>>> get it
>>>
>>>> landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
>>>>
>>> sand
>>>
>>>> storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
>>>>
>>> dollar
>>>
>>>> fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on adding anything
>>>> else. The damsels are happy so far
>>>>
>>> in
>>>
>>>> the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
>>>>
>>> more.
>>>
>>>> Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
>>>>
>>> to go
>>>
>>>> in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
>>>>
>>> 30.
>>>
>>>> The zoo's are looking like they are going to
>>>>
>>> recover
>>>
>>>> from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
>>>>
>>> too
>>>
>>>> good yesterday :(
>>>> Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~ OH! And on top of
>>>> that my new salt water wasn't completely cured. I hope I don't
>>>> loose the clown
>>>>
>>> after
>>>
>>>> all :(
>>>> I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
>>>>
>>> until
>>>
>>>> after the holidays.
>>>> Wish me luck.
>>>>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.15/1173 - Release Date: 12/5/2007
> 9:29 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24889 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Yes Donna, Cyanide and dinomite are commonly used to catch fish in the Phillipines. Most all $3.00-$5.00 Damsel are cyanide cought. You will pay 7:00-10:00 for net cought.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Donna Camp
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 7:03 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels


You have me doing a double take with the phrase "cyanide caught". Please
tell me that isn't the cruel thing I think it may be.

Donna

----- Original Message -----
From: "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

You have had a total different experience with the green chromis than I have
had in over 60 reef aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are cyanide
caught, and so they die off slowly, but if you buy net caught ,they live for
many years.
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy







------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24890 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Helllooooooo... (in my best Lenny imitation... lol)

I wish I were... but it was Lenny & Squiggy from the Laverne & Shirley
show... or did Lenny & Squiggy ever get their own spinoff? I don't think
they did... at least not in the USA.

OK.. back to fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 8:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels

Hey Lenny...

Would you be Lenny of Lenny and Squiggy? (we must be about the same age) :)

Jodie

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> Marsha, Marsha, Marsha...
>
> (Sorry, had to do it even though it shows my age.. lol)
>
> So... did you name the CBS Damien or Hannibal or maybe Chucky? Sounds
> like either name would be appropriate.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Same thing, never had a CB shrimp kill anything, and again they are in
> almost every SW tank I maintain as well as my own.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms
> from my sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating
> the knobs from the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed
> 4 times in the last 6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to
> catch the fish in the tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that
did the dirty deed.
> I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could
> have worked on the water.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...
> <mailto:ssathre%40suddenlink.net>
>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in
> my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a
> coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a
> week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3
> times the size.
> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you have?
> We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>
> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel
> Shrimp, a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting
> Crabs, 9 Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1
> scarlet legged crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little
> poly frag. I lost a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my
ignorance.
>
> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning
> what is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a
> LFS who said he never performs water changes, that doing them only
> creates a sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy
> because their enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
> balance, water changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not
> had a water change since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just
mentioning what I was told.
>
> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night
> and gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>
> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
>
>> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn from me
>> on damsels. If you put Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
>> out, and they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the Blue
>> Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least mine is small. He is a
>> cute lil bugga too. The way the swim to too adorable. They are
>> suppose to be hardy too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
got.
>> After a few months that thing is big! It is interesting though. It
>> will eat off of a stick..lol I haven't read where it will nab fish
>> yet, but I am getting skeptical about that one!
>> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
>> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches across, and he
>> blends in so well with the coralline, no one can tell he is in there
>> unless I point him out.
>>
>> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get some neon
>> gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for beginners. But, I read
>> their life span is about a year. :( I bought a book called, "The
>> Marine Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on types of
>> fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity et...
>> What fishes are you considering?
>> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even after the sand
>> storm shock..lol Then it fell into a crevice and I had to dig it out.
>> It is a bit perturbed with me now. :( It closed back up and is
>> pouting now..lol Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
>> Maybe we can learn together.
>> stacey
>>
>> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>>
>>
>>> lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up
>>> crews are not for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
>>>
>>> Jodie
>>>
>>> Stacey Riga wrote:
>>>
>>>> UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
>>>> I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
>>>>
>>> would
>>>
>>>> never be able to put anything else in there. They became very
>>>> territorial, and had lot's of caves
>>>>
>>> and
>>>
>>>> hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker when I first
>>>> bought my 75g and was told they were
>>>>
>>> good
>>>
>>>> fish to start out with. They should also tell you
>>>>
>>> they
>>>
>>>> get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
>>>>
>>> could
>>>
>>>> put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
>>>>
>>> damsels.
>>>
>>>> I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
>>>>
>>> up
>>>
>>>> real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90 pounds of rocks,
>>>> and chased those lil bugga everywhere. It took forever but I
>>>> finally caught
>>>>
>>> them
>>>
>>>> and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
>>>>
>>> it.
>>>
>>>> After a while I finally became very aggessive in trying to catch
>>>> them. I feel awefull about, but
>>>>
>>> with
>>>
>>>> their lifespan who knows when I would have been
>>>>
>>> able
>>>
>>>> to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the peppermint shrimp
>>>> in yet, or he would have been
>>>>
>>> fish
>>>
>>>> food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
>>>>
>>> chasing
>>>
>>>> 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
>>>>
>>> get it
>>>
>>>> landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
>>>>
>>> sand
>>>
>>>> storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
>>>>
>>> dollar
>>>
>>>> fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on adding anything
>>>> else. The damsels are happy so far
>>>>
>>> in
>>>
>>>> the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
>>>>
>>> more.
>>>
>>>> Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
>>>>
>>> to go
>>>
>>>> in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
>>>>
>>> 30.
>>>
>>>> The zoo's are looking like they are going to
>>>>
>>> recover
>>>
>>>> from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
>>>>
>>> too
>>>
>>>> good yesterday :(
>>>> Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~ OH! And on top of
>>>> that my new salt water wasn't completely cured. I hope I don't
>>>> loose the clown
>>>>
>>> after
>>>
>>>> all :(
>>>> I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
>>>>
>>> until
>>>
>>>> after the holidays.
>>>> Wish me luck.
>>>>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.15/1173 - Release Date: 12/5/2007
9:29 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24891 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion
to the fishes in a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole
area are just laying around, completely stunned.
Horrid looking scene. :(


--- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:

> You have had a total different experience with the
> green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef
> aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are
> cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if
> you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
>
> I myself had, and again the operative word here is
> had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on
> me. they killed one another until there were 2 left,
> then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos.
> i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in
> the damsel family.
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most
> cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> Chromis (sweet as pie )
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Frog Dog
> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> The same bad fish dude
> told me filtered water was OK.
> I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> so many things to
> learn.....
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > Are you usin Ro water?
> > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> Instants
> > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> with it
> > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> purchase.
> >
> > stace
> > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> 40htva.net> > wrote:
> >
> > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> type of
> > > lighting do you
> > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> hood.
> > >
> > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> Miller
> > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> Sand
> > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> blue-legged
> > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> -due
> > > to my ignorance.
> > >
> > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> fighting
> > > a nitrate and
> > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> high
> > > despite water
> > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> it is
> > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> will
> > > probably get more
> > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> pretty
> > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> :( I
> > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > said he never performs water changes, that
> doing
> > > them only creates a
> > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> become
> > > hardy because their
> > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> right
> > > balance, water
> > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> has
> > > not had a water change
> > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> that,
> > > just mentioning what I
> > > was told.
> > >
> > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> lay
> > > eggs that look like
> > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> the sand
> > > bed last night and
> > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> them.
> > >
> > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> I was
> > > wondering how you
> > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> them
> > > -and keep them alive?
> > >
> > > Jodie
> > >
> > >
> > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> If you
> > > put
> > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> out,
> > > and
> > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> called mine
> > > the
> > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> least
> > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> The way
> > > the
> > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> hardy
> > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> some rock
> > > I
> > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> It is
> > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > stick..lol
> > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> but I
> > > am
> > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> stick
> > > too.
> > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> inches
> > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > coralline,
> > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> point him
> > > out.
> > > >
> > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> going to
> > > get
> > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> good fish
> > > for
> > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> about a
> > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> info
> > > on
> > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > compatablity
> > > > et...
> > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> today, even
>
=== message truncated ===
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24892 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Marsha's CBS
It must be having an identity crisis and thinks it's
jaws......lol

--- marsha wilburn <alien8mipussy@...> wrote:

> I thought the same thing at first until i seen him
> tearing the arms from my sandsifter star. breaking
> the quills off my urchins, eating the knobs from the
> choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed 4
> times in the last 6mos. and is over 3 inches long.
> he even tries to catch the fish in the tank. that's
> why I believe that it was the CBS that did the dirty
> deed.
> I wish that it was water perameters, instead of
> livestock. I could have worked on the water.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24893 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Most would remember the duo of "Lenny and Squiggy", it was easier typing
that, then Lenny from the Laverne and Shirley show. lol
I like when I don't have to type a lot, Fish Face. Squiggy on occasion
would say that, and it brings "Fish" into the discussion. :)
Squiggy said "Hello", Lenny was usually, "Hi". Sad that I remember this...

Jodie

Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
> Helllooooooo... (in my best Lenny imitation... lol)
>
> I wish I were... but it was Lenny & Squiggy from the Laverne & Shirley
> show... or did Lenny & Squiggy ever get their own spinoff? I don't think
> they did... at least not in the USA.
>
> OK.. back to fish.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Frog Dog
> Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 8:30 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>
> Hey Lenny...
>
> Would you be Lenny of Lenny and Squiggy? (we must be about the same age) :)
>
> Jodie
>
> Lenny V. aka GoldLenny wrote:
>
>> Marsha, Marsha, Marsha...
>>
>> (Sorry, had to do it even though it shows my age.. lol)
>>
>> So... did you name the CBS Damien or Hannibal or maybe Chucky? Sounds
>> like either name would be appropriate.
>>
>> Lenny Vasbinder
>> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Sissy Sathre
>> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 9:32 PM
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>>
>> Same thing, never had a CB shrimp kill anything, and again they are in
>> almost every SW tank I maintain as well as my own.
>> Sissy Sathre
>> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
>> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: marsha wilburn
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:13 PM
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>>
>> I thought the same thing at first until i seen him tearing the arms
>> from my sandsifter star. breaking the quills off my urchins, eating
>> the knobs from the choc. chip star, and the list goes on. he has shed
>> 4 times in the last 6mos. and is over 3 inches long. he even tries to
>> catch the fish in the tank. that's why I believe that it was the CBS that
>>
> did the dirty deed.
>
>> I wish that it was water perameters, instead of livestock. I could
>> have worked on the water.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...
>> <mailto:ssathre%40suddenlink.net>
>>
>> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:37:40 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>>
>> Coral banded shrimp was not the fault here.
>> Sissy Sathre
>> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
>> www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: marsha wilburn
>> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 4:23 PM
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>>
>> I absolutely love urchins, and yes they are hardy. I had 8 of them in
>> my 55gal. yes, the operative word is had. One day i decided to buy a
>> coral banded shrimp to ad to my tank, and lowe and behold, within a
>> week my urchins, starfish and other shrimp were gone, and my CBS is 3
>> times the size.
>> quite an expensive lesson for me.
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----
>> From: Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net>
>> To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 4, 2007 11:21:13 AM
>> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
>>
>> Where did you get your live rock from? What type of lighting do you have?
>> We're thinking of making our own light hood.
>>
>> Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly Miller Blenny, 1 Camel
>> Shrimp, a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4 Sand Sifting
>> Crabs, 9 Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3 blue-legged crabs, 1
>> scarlet legged crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little
>> poly frag. I lost a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :( -due to my
>>
> ignorance.
>
>> Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm fighting a nitrate and
>> diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay high despite water
>> changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure elite
>> to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think it is the diatoms). I'd
>> like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We will probably get more
>> urchins, these little buggers seem to be pretty hardy! I'm learning
>> what is hardy and what is not by trial and error. :( I stopped by a
>> LFS who said he never performs water changes, that doing them only
>> creates a sterilized environment, and that fish never become hardy
>> because their enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the right
>> balance, water changes are not necessary. He has a tank that has not
>> had a water change since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with that, just
>>
> mentioning what I was told.
>
>> Anyone know what critter I listed above will lay eggs that look like
>> poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on the sand bed last night
>> and gone this morning, I assume some thing ate them.
>>
>> Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank? I was wondering how you
>> keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head them -and keep them alive?
>>
>> Jodie
>>
>> Stacey Riga wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn from me
>>> on damsels. If you put Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
>>> out, and they are territorial as the dickens! I called mine the Blue
>>> Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at least mine is small. He is a
>>> cute lil bugga too. The way the swim to too adorable. They are
>>> suppose to be hardy too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on some rock I
>>>
> got.
>
>>> After a few months that thing is big! It is interesting though. It
>>> will eat off of a stick..lol I haven't read where it will nab fish
>>> yet, but I am getting skeptical about that one!
>>> My electric blue hermit will eat off of a stick too.
>>> They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two inches across, and he
>>> blends in so well with the coralline, no one can tell he is in there
>>> unless I point him out.
>>>
>>> My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am going to get some neon
>>> gobies, they are suppose to be good fish for beginners. But, I read
>>> their life span is about a year. :( I bought a book called, "The
>>> Marine Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great info on types of
>>> fish, what they eat, hardiness, compatablity et...
>>> What fishes are you considering?
>>> My candy cane was opening up real nice today, even after the sand
>>> storm shock..lol Then it fell into a crevice and I had to dig it out.
>>> It is a bit perturbed with me now. :( It closed back up and is
>>> pouting now..lol Let me know how yours are doing, and future plans :)
>>> Maybe we can learn together.
>>> stacey
>>>
>>> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog% 40htva.net> > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> lol, sounds like a fun day! I learned a valuable lesson. Clean-up
>>>> crews are not for a new tank... There is nothing to clean up.
>>>>
>>>> Jodie
>>>>
>>>> Stacey Riga wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> UGH~ Yesterday was grrrrrrr.
>>>>> I had to get three damsels ouut of a 75g, or I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> would
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> never be able to put anything else in there. They became very
>>>>> territorial, and had lot's of caves
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> and
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> hiding places. My tank was set up by an LFS worker when I first
>>>>> bought my 75g and was told they were
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> good
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> fish to start out with. They should also tell you
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> they
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> get much bigger and are mean as heck! I mean I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> could
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> put absolutely NOTHING in with 3 dang $3.00
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> damsels.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I tried a clown yesterday, they were beating him
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> up
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> real bad. I finally tore down the whole tank, 90 pounds of rocks,
>>>>> and chased those lil bugga everywhere. It took forever but I
>>>>> finally caught
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> them
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> and slapped them into a 30. Well, one didn't make
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> After a while I finally became very aggessive in trying to catch
>>>>> them. I feel awefull about, but
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> with
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> their lifespan who knows when I would have been
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> able
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> to add anything else. I am glad I hadn't put the peppermint shrimp
>>>>> in yet, or he would have been
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> fish
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> food! So anyway, taking out 90 pounds of rock,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> chasing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> 3 damsels, puttng 90 pounds back in, and try to
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> get it
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> landscaped somewhat. Poor ole clown fish was in a
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> sand
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> storm. I hope it makes it. I couldn't have 3.00
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> dollar
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> fish killing a 20 dollar fish, plus be limited on adding anything
>>>>> else. The damsels are happy so far
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> in
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> the 30 and the clown is able to scope out the 75
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> more.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Today the Peppermint shrimp (Pepe la Stew) get's
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> to go
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> in, before the damsels get too acclimated to the
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> 30.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> The zoo's are looking like they are going to
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> recover
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> from the stress, but the candy cane wasn't looking
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> too
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> good yesterday :(
>>>>> Needless to say my arms are killing me today!~ OH! And on top of
>>>>> that my new salt water wasn't completely cured. I hope I don't
>>>>> loose the clown
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> after
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> all :(
>>>>> I want to get a tang soon, but will have to wait
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> until
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> after the holidays.
>>>>> Wish me luck.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>
>
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> 9:29 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> .
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24894 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Clown ?
I know you are not suppose to add another clown to a
tank that has another clown already in residence.
Since mine was just added a few days ago, and at the
moment is enjoying a whole 75 gallon tank to himself,
except for clean up critters, can I add another of the
same type? SAFELY
It is a false percula. Seems to me, since they swim so
slow, and it hasn't staked claim anywhere I might
could do it, but won't if not advisable.
OH my gosh! I love that fish! Right now it is very
personable towards me, and will eat a small flake out
of my hand.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24895 From: William Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
When they use cyanide it kills off not just the intended fish but
also all of the corals and other animals and plants that are in the
area. After a while the fishermen have to travel further and further
to "catch" any of the intended victims. They are teaching the natives
fishermen to do sustainable catches so that the fish will be able to
reproduce fast enough so as to not be depleted in the areas that they
are caught.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion
> to the fishes in a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole
> area are just laying around, completely stunned.
> Horrid looking scene. :(
>
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > You have had a total different experience with the
> > green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef
> > aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are
> > cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if
> > you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > I myself had, and again the operative word here is
> > had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on
> > me. they killed one another until there were 2 left,
> > then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos.
> > i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in
> > the damsel family.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most
> > cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> > 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> > Chromis (sweet as pie )
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> > so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> > 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24896 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but negative about the
Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the regular cleaner
shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral Banded. It's too bad
because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to look at than the
regular cleaners.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any info of they being
killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill effects
on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp sometimes.This is also
my experance with them.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
>
>
> I belong to several other message boards, and have heard people
repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had to be removed due to
causing death.
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24897 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
It is on household current. What Lenny says makes sense, because at
night (when plants are releasing Co2) the meter reads 7.6 steadily.
With the day lights on, If I turn the light off for a second just to
read the meter, I get a 7.9 reading (Which is what my API test kit
says it is). With the lights on, the readings fluctuate, but it would
make sense that plants don't take in nutrients/secrete waste at any
paticular rate. So I am convinced that the meter is working properly.
Thanks for your replies! :)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> Just curious if your pH meter is battery operated, or using house
> current. If it is the latter, try plugging into a different circuit
> entirely, not just a different outlet. If it is battery operated,
or
> plugging into a different circuit does not fix it, try placing a
Faraday
> cage around the probe and meter or under the lighting fixture to
> determine f there is some sort of electronic shenanigans going on
> affecting your meter.
>
> You should see some fluctuation, as the plants start
photosynthesizing
> and releasing oxygen rather than releasing carbon dioxide, but I
would
> not think that you would see the kind of fluctuation you are seeing
now.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Noah Burge
> Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 6:08 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pH, lighting, and Co2 interactions
>
> I set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank about a month and a half ago.
It
> is moderately planted, and I am going to inject Co2 with a DIY
system.
> I also recently bought a pH monitor and calibrated it (with 2
> solutions) and it works great...but only if the lights are off. If
the
> light is off, I get a constant reading (about 7.8), but as soon as
the
> light snaps on, the monitor readings fluctuate wildly. It isn't
> anything to do with temprature, because it does it as soon as the
light
> comes on in the morning. it's a t5 fixture and 2 54w bulbs. I also
> have 2 LED moonlights, and interstingly these also make the
readings
> swing - but very little. Like + or minus .7 or .8
> With the grow light on, the readings are unreadable - goes from 8.9
> down to 6.3, then up to 7.7, you get the idea.
>
> So I was wondering if anyone has experience with this? I imagine
> something in the light spectrum affects the probe itself? Also,
when I
> start my Co2, I'll want to watch pH closely (I think?) so, is my
only
> solution to turn the light off every time I want to montor pH?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24898 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
When I kept salt water tanks I always had coral banded shrimp. I had many
other invrets some sessile some that moved around and never had a coral banded
shrimp go after a fish or invert. I guess each has their own experiences

Joey



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24899 From: joesbirds@aol.com Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (bulb
I am not sure how they are sending them but I know my local UPS driver and
USPS worker have been saying it has been really busy these last few weeks. I
could be lost in the system or some companies close down over the holidays.




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24900 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
"The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
by Robert M. Fenner
In his book he states:
"The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
corals."
Further on into the paragraph, it states
"The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable corals.
"

--- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...> wrote:

>
> I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but
> negative about the
> Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the
> regular cleaner
> shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral
> Banded. It's too bad
> because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to
> look at than the
> regular cleaners.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre"
> <ssathre@...> wrote:
> >
> > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any
> info of they being
> killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> cleaners,with no ill effects
> on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> sometimes.This is also
> my experance with them.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> >
> >
> > I belong to several other message boards, and have
> heard people
> repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had
> to be removed due to
> causing death.
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24901 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me it was agreeable,
to the reef?

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> by Robert M. Fenner
> In his book he states:
> "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> corals."
> Further on into the paragraph, it states
> "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable corals.
> "
>
> --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
>
> >
> > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but
> > negative about the
> > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the
> > regular cleaner
> > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral
> > Banded. It's too bad
> > because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to
> > look at than the
> > regular cleaners.
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy Sathre"
> > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any
> > info of they being
> > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > sometimes.This is also
> > my experance with them.
> > > Sissy Sathre
> > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > >
> > >
> > > I belong to several other message boards, and have
> > heard people
> > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had
> > to be removed due to
> > causing death.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24902 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Does it have another name? I don't see it listed.
stace
--- Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:

> What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me
> it was agreeable,
> to the reef?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > by Robert M. Fenner
> > In his book he states:
> > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> > beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> > corals."
> > Further on into the paragraph, it states
> > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> > invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> > reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable
> corals.
> > "
> >
> > --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything
> but
> > > negative about the
> > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had
> the
> > > regular cleaner
> > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the
> Coral
> > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > because the Coral Banded is much more
> interesting to
> > > look at than the
> > > regular cleaners.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy
> Sathre"
> > > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find
> any
> > > info of they being
> > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > sometimes.This is also
> > > my experance with them.
> > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I belong to several other message boards, and
> have
> > > heard people
> > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or
> had
> > > to be removed due to
> > > causing death.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24903 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
I don't know another name. It is red with white stripes and has a hump.
It isn't a peppermint shrimp.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Does it have another name? I don't see it listed.
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me
> > it was agreeable,
> > to the reef?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > > by Robert M. Fenner
> > > In his book he states:
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> > > beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> > > corals."
> > > Further on into the paragraph, it states
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> > > invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> > > reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable
> > corals.
> > > "
> > >
> > > --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything
> > but
> > > > negative about the
> > > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had
> > the
> > > > regular cleaner
> > > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the
> > Coral
> > > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > > because the Coral Banded is much more
> > interesting to
> > > > look at than the
> > > > regular cleaners.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy
> > Sathre"
> > > > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find
> > any
> > > > info of they being
> > > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > > > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > > > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > > sometimes.This is also
> > > > my experance with them.
> > > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I belong to several other message boards, and
> > have
> > > > heard people
> > > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or
> > had
> > > > to be removed due to
> > > > causing death.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > > removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24904 From: Sissy Sathre Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Could you tell me what you have heard, I find this interesting?
Sissy Sathre
DBA Aquariums By Sissy
www.aquariumsbysissy.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Valeen Gonzalez
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 1:41 PM
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Coral banded shrimp



I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but negative about the
Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the regular cleaner
shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral Banded. It's too bad
because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to look at than the
regular cleaners.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any info of they being
killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill effects
on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp sometimes.This is also
my experance with them.
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marsha wilburn
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
>
>
> I belong to several other message boards, and have heard people
repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had to be removed due to
causing death.
>

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date: 11/23/2007 7:39 PM


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24905 From: marsha w. Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
i call my killers the fish Gotti clan. my 3 stripe damsels are my eses, they are always tag teaming the other fish. oh, they crack me up




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
���`�.��.><((((�>.���`�.��.���`�.�><((((�> �.���`�.�. , .���`�..><((((�>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<�((((><.���`�.��.���`�.�<�((((><�.���`�.�. , .���`�..<�((((><���`�.��.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24906 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Here's it's other names.

Hinge-beak Shrimp, Dancing Shrimp, or Candy Shrimp. Rhynchocinetes
durbanensis.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Does it have another name? I don't see it listed.
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me
> > it was agreeable,
> > to the reef?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > > by Robert M. Fenner
> > > In his book he states:
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> > > beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> > > corals."
> > > Further on into the paragraph, it states
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> > > invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> > > reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable
> > corals.
> > > "
> > >
> > > --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything
> > but
> > > > negative about the
> > > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had
> > the
> > > > regular cleaner
> > > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the
> > Coral
> > > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > > because the Coral Banded is much more
> > interesting to
> > > > look at than the
> > > > regular cleaners.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy
> > Sathre"
> > > > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find
> > any
> > > > info of they being
> > > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > > > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > > > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > > sometimes.This is also
> > > > my experance with them.
> > > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I belong to several other message boards, and
> > have
> > > > heard people
> > > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or
> > had
> > > > to be removed due to
> > > > causing death.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > > removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24907 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium plant" seed (
Thanks for the response. I called them and they told me they sent it
yesterday.

-------Original Message-------

From: joesbirds@...
Date: 12/7/2007 10:52:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re:Has anyone ever returned a "Grow your own aquarium
plant" seed (bulb

I am not sure how they are sending them but I know my local UPS driver and
USPS worker have been saying it has been really busy these last few weeks. I
could be lost in the system or some companies close down over the holidays.




**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
(http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24908 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Light question
I bought a 30 gal tank and the length is 36. I also bought a hood and it
came with an f18t8 light and it says natural day light. I have a fresh water
Planted aquarium and I was wondering what is the watt on that bulb and is there a t8 that is high output or something brighter than the light that came with the hood? I have a Shin Mao twin t5 for 15 gal cause that was what I had before and it seems brighter than the single t8 bulb. I was looking online and the light fixture are expensive. Is there a way to change the bulb or maybe buy a ballast with twin bulb? If so, where could I find one or buy one?

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24909 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
I would not hold out much hope for the cessation of cyanide use. The training you note has been going on for more than 10 years, and while it has helped somewhat, the use of cyanide has been reduced. What has not been done, or, at least, not done well, is to educate the general fish buying public about cyanide caught fish. Such fish, when found in shops, should be boycotted. There probably should be a program that certifies fish as being caught by means other than the use of cyanide. When the fishermen who use cyanide find that their incomes are dropping, they will either learn how to capture the fish in a better way, or give up fishing for the ornamental trade all together.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

When they use cyanide it kills off not just the intended fish but
also all of the corals and other animals and plants that are in the
area. After a while the fishermen have to travel further and further
to "catch" any of the intended victims. They are teaching the natives
fishermen to do sustainable catches so that the fish will be able to
reproduce fast enough so as to not be depleted in the areas that they
are caught.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion
> to the fishes in a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole
> area are just laying around, completely stunned.
> Horrid looking scene. :(
>
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > You have had a total different experience with the
> > green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef
> > aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are
> > cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if
> > you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > I myself had, and again the operative word here is
> > had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on
> > me. they killed one another until there were 2 left,
> > then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos.
> > i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in
> > the damsel family.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most
> > cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> > 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> > Chromis (sweet as pie )
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> > so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> > 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> >
> === message truncated ===
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24910 From: phebe_1981 Date: 12/7/2007
Subject: Breeder severums
I have a two pair of breeder gold severums and would like to sell them.
Make me a good offer and they are yours. I do not know how to ship so
you will have to come and get them. I live in Illinois near STL. You
can email me at phebe_1981@... Thank you
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24911 From: judy_be Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: glass of acryllic
I'm looking for a 20-long aquarium. Do you suggest glass or acryllic?
I've always had glass, and it seems glass is easier to clean.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24912 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: glass of acryllic
I would go with glass as it’s less expensive and easier to avoid scratches.
Although I’ve been careful, I have badly scratched all my glass aquariums
and I’ve only had them a year or two. I hate to think what acrylic would
look like!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of judy_be
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] glass of acryllic



I'm looking for a 20-long aquarium. Do you suggest glass or acryllic?
I've always had glass, and it seems glass is easier to clean.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24913 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Brown Diatoms and Light
I had been trying to figure out if I had Brown Diatoms or Cyanobacteria.
I recently came to the conclusion that
is was brown diatoms. So far the only thing that I have changed in the
environment is not having the light on in
the tank all day and removed some sand I thought might be the culprit.
Now the brown stuff is pretty much gone.
So my question is, if brown diatoms were the problem, would light affect
it to the point of nonexistence? If I have
my tank light on for longer periods and the brown stuff comes back, will
it be Cyanobacteria?

Jodie
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24914 From: Bobby & Jennifer Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Is this all kinds of fish that are caught this way or just saltwater? Are
cichlids caught in this same manner? I guess I’ve never heard of this
before and want to check it out a little further.



Jenn



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels



I would not hold out much hope for the cessation of cyanide use. The
training you note has been going on for more than 10 years, and while it has
helped somewhat, the use of cyanide has been reduced. What has not been
done, or, at least, not done well, is to educate the general fish buying
public about cyanide caught fish. Such fish, when found in shops, should be
boycotted. There probably should be a program that certifies fish as being
caught by means other than the use of cyanide. When the fishermen who use
cyanide find that their incomes are dropping, they will either learn how to
capture the fish in a better way, or give up fishing for the ornamental
trade all together.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

When they use cyanide it kills off not just the intended fish but
also all of the corals and other animals and plants that are in the
area. After a while the fishermen have to travel further and further
to "catch" any of the intended victims. They are teaching the natives
fishermen to do sustainable catches so that the fish will be able to
reproduce fast enough so as to not be depleted in the areas that they
are caught.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion
> to the fishes in a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole
> area are just laying around, completely stunned.
> Horrid looking scene. :(
>
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > You have had a total different experience with the
> > green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef
> > aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are
> > cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if
> > you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > I myself had, and again the operative word here is
> > had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on
> > me. they killed one another until there were 2 left,
> > then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos.
> > i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in
> > the damsel family.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most
> > cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> > 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> > Chromis (sweet as pie )
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> > so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> > 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> >
> === message truncated ===
>

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24915 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
This collection method is used for collecting marine specimens.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 10:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

Is this all kinds of fish that are caught this way or just saltwater?
Are
cichlids caught in this same manner? I guess I've never heard of this
before and want to check it out a little further.



Jenn



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels



I would not hold out much hope for the cessation of cyanide use. The
training you note has been going on for more than 10 years, and while it
has
helped somewhat, the use of cyanide has been reduced. What has not been
done, or, at least, not done well, is to educate the general fish buying
public about cyanide caught fish. Such fish, when found in shops, should
be
boycotted. There probably should be a program that certifies fish as
being
caught by means other than the use of cyanide. When the fishermen who
use
cyanide find that their incomes are dropping, they will either learn how
to
capture the fish in a better way, or give up fishing for the ornamental
trade all together.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

When they use cyanide it kills off not just the intended fish but
also all of the corals and other animals and plants that are in the
area. After a while the fishermen have to travel further and further
to "catch" any of the intended victims. They are teaching the natives
fishermen to do sustainable catches so that the fish will be able to
reproduce fast enough so as to not be depleted in the areas that they
are caught.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion
> to the fishes in a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole
> area are just laying around, completely stunned.
> Horrid looking scene. :(
>
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > You have had a total different experience with the
> > green chromis than I have had in over 60 reef
> > aquariums. Most of the cheap green chromis are
> > cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if
> > you buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > I myself had, and again the operative word here is
> > had, 6 green chromis that became iraqi bombers on
> > me. they killed one another until there were 2 left,
> > then the dominant killed the other. now after 5 mos.
> > i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in
> > the damsel family.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most
> > cases. Instant Ocean is what I use and have used for
> > 30 years. BTW all Damels are not mean, try green
> > Chromis (sweet as pie )
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( ,
> > so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> > 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A
> > > > little poly frag. I lost
> > > > a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I
> > > > bought Chemi-Pure elite
> > > > to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL
> > > > > Whatever you do, learn from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine
> > > > > Aquarists" by Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24916 From: Ungers Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Problem with my Tank?
Hi There,

I have a problem in my tank, and I'm hoping that someone with more
wisdom than I can help me.

I have a 35 gallon (UK) tank, presently containing 3 gouramis, 2 Bala
Sharks, 1 Angel Fish and 1 Black Ghost Knife Fish.

None of the above fish are very large.

The Problem: Within the last two and a half weeks, I have lost 2
angel fish, 1 gourami and, most recently, my scavenger.

The water quality is fine, all within normal parameters. There have
been no noticeable spots or markings on the fish, indicating disease.

About three days ago I did a 50% water change only to find that my
scavenger fish died yesterday.

All ideas and advice are most welcome.

Thanks very much,

Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24917 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Mongabay.com http://fish.mongabay.com has a very thorough library of
profiles for FW fish http://fish.mongabay.com/species_index.htm or use the
search box for common names, but they also have links to profiles on many
Marine species but from what I remember, the profiles were merely links to
the profiles on Fishbase.org
http://www.fishbase.org/search.php?lang=English which is also a good
reference but the profiles there are more scientific in nature where the
Mongabay profiles are more user friendly.

Unfortunately, neither Mongabay or Fishbase seem to have any shrimp profiles
on them. There's several sites with freshwater shrimp profiles but not many
with a thorough list of SW profiles that I've ever seen.

Fishlore.com seems to be compiling a growing list of SW profiles though they
are mixed in with the tropical and brackish fish profiles
http://www.fishlore.com/TropicalFishProfiles.htm. Hopefully, they'll
separate them into FW, BW and SW sections before things get too big or
messed up.

They did have a profile on the Coral Banded Shrimp (with Pics)
http://www.fishlore.com/Profiles-CoralBandedShrimp.htm but not on the Camel
Shrimp.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 3:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Coral banded shrimp

I don't know another name. It is red with white stripes and has a hump.
It isn't a peppermint shrimp.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Does it have another name? I don't see it listed.
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
<mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me it was
> > agreeable, to the reef?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > > by Robert M. Fenner
> > > In his book he states:
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for beginning
> > > aquarists, although it may attack soft corals."
> > > Further on into the paragraph, it states "The Banded Coral Shrimp
> > > is a good beginners invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic
> > > in a reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable
> > corals.
> > > "
> > >
> > > --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything
> > but
> > > > negative about the
> > > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had
> > the
> > > > regular cleaner
> > > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the
> > Coral
> > > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > > because the Coral Banded is much more
> > interesting to
> > > > look at than the
> > > > regular cleaners.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy
> > Sathre"
> > > > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find
> > any
> > > > info of they being
> > > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill
> > > > effects on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > > sometimes.This is also my experance with them.
> > > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I belong to several other message boards, and
> > have
> > > > heard people
> > > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or
> > had
> > > > to be removed due to
> > > > causing death.
> > > > >

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11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24918 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: glass of acryllic
Smaller aquariums (like your 20G) are fine in glass since the glass does not
have to be very thick.

For bigger aquariums, acrylic is my preference (and the preference of most
public aquariums) since acrylic can be much thinner and stays clear. When
glass aquariums start getting into the thicker glass, the glass gets a
greenish tint unless you are willing to pay a lot more for low iron glass.
The acrylic on my 65G (48" x 18" x 21") is less than 1/4" thick and it's
crystal clear where glass on a tank that size would be around 1/2" thick and
greenish.... and much, much heavier. My 65G weighs less than 25 pounds when
empty. A glass tank that size would approach 100 pounds or more. Glass is
harder so it does not scratch as easily but if it does get scratched,
there's not much a home user can do about it. With acrylic, which does
scratch easier, there are low cost polishing kits where you can polish the
scratches out of the acrylic.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of judy_be
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] glass of acryllic

I'm looking for a 20-long aquarium. Do you suggest glass or acryllic?
I've always had glass, and it seems glass is easier to clean.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007
11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24919 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Brown Diatoms and Light
The sand very well could be the culprit since diatoms grow based
on available silicates and sand is mostly silicates. I don't think you
mentioned that you had a sand substrate in your first post about this
subject.

Light does not affect the growth of diatoms as much (sometimes it's called
brown algae but it's not really an algae). As soon as the available or
excess silicates leech out of the sand and are used up, the diatoms will die
off. They are usually easily cleaned up during gravel vacuums. Use a
sponge or soft brush on your glass and ornaments to brush it off first and
then do the gravel vacuum to suck the loose diatoms up.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 8:00 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Brown Diatoms and Light

I had been trying to figure out if I had Brown Diatoms or Cyanobacteria.
I recently came to the conclusion that
is was brown diatoms. So far the only thing that I have changed in the
environment is not having the light on in the tank all day and removed some
sand I thought might be the culprit.
Now the brown stuff is pretty much gone.
So my question is, if brown diatoms were the problem, would light affect it
to the point of nonexistence? If I have my tank light on for longer periods
and the brown stuff comes back, will it be Cyanobacteria?

Jodie


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007
11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24920 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Damsels
Yeah... for FW, we just use DY-NO-MITE!!!!! (in my best J.J. Walker
impression)

LOL

Just kidding.. I don't collect or sell fish.

Here's an old Clinton News Network ;-) (CNN) article about the issue.
http://archives.cnn.com/2000/ASIANOW/southeast/11/19/indonesia.poisoned.fish
.ap/index.html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 9:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

This collection method is used for collecting marine specimens.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Bobby & Jennifer
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 10:19 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

Is this all kinds of fish that are caught this way or just saltwater?
Are
cichlids caught in this same manner? I guess I've never heard of this before
and want to check it out a little further.

Jenn

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 10:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

I would not hold out much hope for the cessation of cyanide use. The
training you note has been going on for more than 10 years, and while it has
helped somewhat, the use of cyanide has been reduced. What has not been
done, or, at least, not done well, is to educate the general fish buying
public about cyanide caught fish. Such fish, when found in shops, should be
boycotted. There probably should be a program that certifies fish as being
caught by means other than the use of cyanide. When the fishermen who use
cyanide find that their incomes are dropping, they will either learn how to
capture the fish in a better way, or give up fishing for the ornamental
trade all together.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of William
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 11:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Damsels

When they use cyanide it kills off not just the intended fish but also all
of the corals and other animals and plants that are in the area. After a
while the fishermen have to travel further and further to "catch" any of the
intended victims. They are teaching the natives fishermen to do sustainable
catches so that the fish will be able to reproduce fast enough so as to not
be depleted in the areas that they are caught.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
wrote:
>
> In one of the books I bought, it shows the devastion to the fishes in
> a cyanide 'catch'. Fish in the whole area are just laying around,
> completely stunned.
> Horrid looking scene. :(
>
>
> --- Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...> wrote:
>
> > You have had a total different experience with the green chromis
> > than I have had in over 60 reef aquariums. Most of the cheap green
> > chromis are cyanide caught, and so they die off slowly, but if you
> > buy net caught ,they live for many years.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> >
> > I myself had, and again the operative word here is had, 6 green
> > chromis that became iraqi bombers on me. they killed one another
> > until there were 2 left, then the dominant killed the other. now
> > after 5 mos.
> > i now have one huge green chromis. They are still in the damsel
> > family.
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: Sissy Sathre <ssathre@...>
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 5, 2007 1:22:10 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > To step in here,,,,,,,, , you must use RO in most cases. Instant
> > Ocean is what I use and have used for 30 years. BTW all Damels are
> > not mean, try green Chromis (sweet as pie ) Sissy Sathre DBA
> > Aquariums By Sissy www.aquariumsbysiss y.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Frog Dog
> > To: AquaticLife@ yahoogroups. com
> > Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2007 11:59 AM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Damsels
> >
> > Using filtered water, don't have RO system _yet_.
> > The same bad fish dude
> > told me filtered water was OK.
> > I'm using Instant Ocean... Not good?? Wahhhh :'( , so many things to
> > learn.....
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > Are you usin Ro water?
> > > Whaat kind of salt are you using?
> > > I was using Instant Ocean..yuck. I am trying
> > Instants
> > > Reef Crystals right now. I am having problems
> > with it
> > > disolving but I think the box got wet before
> > purchase.
> > >
> > > stace
> > > --- Frog Dog <frogdog@htva. net <mailto:frogdog%
> > 40htva.net> > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Where did you get your live rock from? What
> > type of
> > > > lighting do you
> > > > have? We're thinking of making our own light
> > hood.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I have 1 Engineer Goby, 1 Molly
> > Miller
> > > > Blenny, 1 Camel Shrimp,
> > > > a Pencil Urchin and a Pin Cushion Urchin, 4
> > Sand
> > > > Sifting Crabs, 9
> > > > Nassarius Snails, 4 Astrea snails, 3
> > blue-legged
> > > > crabs, 1 scarlet legged
> > > > crab, and 1 red-legged crab, 3 mini Ceriths. A little poly frag.
> > > > I lost a Mexican Turbo and a Green Porcelain crab :(
> > -due
> > > > to my ignorance.
> > > >
> > > > Right now I'm not getting anything new. I'm
> > fighting
> > > > a nitrate and
> > > > diatom issues. My nitrates are high, and stay
> > high
> > > > despite water
> > > > changes, -Ammonia, PH, Nitrite are "normal". I bought Chemi-Pure
> > > > elite to help battle brown diatoms (at least I think
> > it is
> > > > the diatoms). I'd
> > > > like a clown and an Anemone -some day... We
> > will
> > > > probably get more
> > > > urchins, these little buggers seem to be
> > pretty
> > > > hardy! I'm learning what
> > > > is hardy and what is not by trial and error.
> > :( I
> > > > stopped by a LFS who
> > > > said he never performs water changes, that
> > doing
> > > > them only creates a
> > > > sterilized environment, and that fish never
> > become
> > > > hardy because their
> > > > enviro. is kept too clean. . If you have the
> > right
> > > > balance, water
> > > > changes are not necessary. He has a tank that
> > has
> > > > not had a water change
> > > > since 1996. I'm not saying I go along with
> > that,
> > > > just mentioning what I
> > > > was told.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know what critter I listed above will
> > lay
> > > > eggs that look like
> > > > poppy seeds? There were about 15 of them on
> > the sand
> > > > bed last night and
> > > > gone this morning, I assume some thing ate
> > them.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone use Mangrove plants in their tank?
> > I was
> > > > wondering how you
> > > > keep them from growing tall? Can you dead head
> > them
> > > > -and keep them alive?
> > > >
> > > > Jodie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > Oh no! We live and learn don't we? LOL Whatever you do, learn
> > > > > from me on damsels.
> > If you
> > > > put
> > > > > Damsels in a tank, you will never get them
> > out,
> > > > and
> > > > > they are territorial as the dickens! I
> > called mine
> > > > the
> > > > > Blue Devils. Clowns are a damsel too, but at
> > least
> > > > > mine is small. He is a cute lil bugga too.
> > The way
> > > > the
> > > > > swim to too adorable. They are suppose to be
> > hardy
> > > > > too. A brittle star was a hitch hiker on
> > some rock
> > > > I
> > > > > got. After a few months that thing is big!
> > It is
> > > > > interesting though. It will eat off of a
> > > > stick..lol
> > > > > I haven't read where it will nab fish yet,
> > but I
> > > > am
> > > > > getting skeptical about that one!
> > > > > My electric blue hermit will eat off of a
> > stick
> > > > too.
> > > > > They are gorgeous hermit crabs! Mine is two
> > inches
> > > > > across, and he blends in so well with the
> > > > coralline,
> > > > > no one can tell he is in there unless I
> > point him
> > > > out.
> > > > >
> > > > > My next fish will be a yellow tang. I am
> > going to
> > > > get
> > > > > some neon gobies, they are suppose to be
> > good fish
> > > > for
> > > > > beginners. But, I read their life span is
> > about a
> > > > > year. :( I bought a book called, "The Marine Aquarists" by
> > > > > Robert M. Fenner. It has great
> > info
> > > > on
> > > > > types of fish, what they eat, hardiness,
> > > > compatablity
> > > > > et...
> > > > > What fishes are you considering?
> > > > > My candy cane was opening up real nice
> > today, even
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24921 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Problem with my Tank?
I'm sorry to say but even though you say your water parameters are all fine,
there are many things you cannot test for that are happening in your tank.

Your tank is severely overstocked but at least your species compatibility is
on track if the tank was large enough and set up properly to provide for
territorial issues.

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Balantiocheilus_melanopterus.html The Bala
Sharks should grow to 16" each and should be in a 6'+ long tank with 100G+.
Suggested companions: Gouramis, Barbs, Danios, Rasboras, Loaches, Knifefish,
tetras, Corydoras, Angelfish, livebearers, Loricarids.

http://fish.mongabay.com/species/Apteronotus_albifrons.html The Black Ghost
Knifefish should grow to 19" and needs a BIG tank also. Suggested
companions: Angelfish, Discus, Eartheaters, Acaras, Gouramis, Leporinus ,
Anostomus, catfish

The Angelfish and Gourami's also need decent sized tanks since they grow to
6"+. Your 35G UK tank is barely large enough for them on their own.

Frankly, what is likely happening (if you are doing proper tank and filter
maintenance and regular PWC's to keep the nitrogen cycle in check) is that
you are having hormone issues with too many supposed-to-get-big fish crammed
into an undersized tank.

What kind of fish was your "scavenger fish"? If a common pleco, then it is
supposed to get REALLY BIG also.

Here's a recent article about hormonal stress written by Beverly Dixon, a
scientist from Cal State University.
http://www.fishchannel.com/fish-health/disease-prevention/stress-and-fish-di
sease.aspx and an older article from the University of Florida so both
coasts are covered. http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/FA005

Stress and many things that cause it are not something we can easily test
for in home aquariums which is why we simply have to follow basic rules and
not overstock our tanks with fish that are supposed to get too big for the
tank.

You need to rehome some of your fish or get a MUCH LARGER tank if you want
them to thrive and survive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ungers
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 11:37 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Problem with my Tank?

Hi There,

I have a problem in my tank, and I'm hoping that someone with more wisdom
than I can help me.

I have a 35 gallon (UK) tank, presently containing 3 gouramis, 2 Bala
Sharks, 1 Angel Fish and 1 Black Ghost Knife Fish.

None of the above fish are very large.

The Problem: Within the last two and a half weeks, I have lost 2 angel fish,
1 gourami and, most recently, my scavenger.

The water quality is fine, all within normal parameters. There have been no
noticeable spots or markings on the fish, indicating disease.

About three days ago I did a 50% water change only to find that my scavenger
fish died yesterday.

All ideas and advice are most welcome.

Thanks very much,

Kevin


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007
11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24922 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
One other site that I do not reference very often but seems to have lots of
info on SW fish/inverts/corals is http://saltaquarium.about.com (look at
the links on the left side for profile links on the various species). I'm
not a SW fish keeper so I've never checked out the info on that site but it
does seem to come up in Google searches all the time so maybe it's got good
info.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Frog Dog
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 3:21 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Coral banded shrimp

I don't know another name. It is red with white stripes and has a hump.
It isn't a peppermint shrimp.

Jodie

Stacey Riga wrote:
>
> Does it have another name? I don't see it listed.
> stace
> --- Frog Dog <frogdog@... <mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>
<mailto:frogdog%40htva.net>> wrote:
>
> > What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me it was
> > agreeable, to the reef?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > > by Robert M. Fenner
> > > In his book he states:
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for beginning
> > > aquarists, although it may attack soft corals."
> > > Further on into the paragraph, it states "The Banded Coral Shrimp
> > > is a good beginners invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic
> > > in a reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable
> > corals.
> > > "
> > >
> > > --- Valeen Gonzalez <valeendgonzalez@...
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything
> > but
> > > > negative about the
> > > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had
> > the
> > > > regular cleaner
> > > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the
> > Coral
> > > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > > because the Coral Banded is much more
> > interesting to
> > > > look at than the
> > > > regular cleaners.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy
> > Sathre"
> > > > <ssathre@...> wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find
> > any
> > > > info of they being
> > > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill
> > > > effects on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > > sometimes.This is also my experance with them.
> > > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I belong to several other message boards, and
> > have
> > > > heard people
> > > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or
> > had
> > > > to be removed due to
> > > > causing death.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1176 - Release Date: 12/6/2007
11:15 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24923 From: Antony Dalton Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: strange sight...
I was enjoying watching my fish last night after feeding them when all
of a sudden a stream of white milky looking "smoke" came out of a small
hole in my live rock! I have a fish only tank that's been up for about
three months. Does anyone have any idea what I saw??

By the way, for those of you just getting started like me, it is just
amazing and so cool the stuff that crawls out of the live rock. I've
now got some cute tube worms and the red and green coraline algae is
spreading beautifully, including all over my powerhead and snails!

Antony
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24924 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
I have heard that they are not good inverts to have in a reef tank
(will eat some corals apparently) and will eat fish small or slow
enough for them to catch. Since I never wanted to try to see if it
was true, I never bothered to get one. But if you have had good
experiences with them then lucky you!

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@...>
wrote:
>
> Could you tell me what you have heard, I find this interesting?
> Sissy Sathre
> DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Valeen Gonzalez
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 1:41 PM
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Coral banded shrimp
>
>
>
> I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but negative
about the
> Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the regular
cleaner
> shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral Banded. It's
too bad
> because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to look at than
the
> regular cleaners.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Sissy Sathre" <ssathre@>
wrote:
> >
> > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any info of they
being
> killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful cleaners,with no ill
effects
> on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp sometimes.This
is also
> my experance with them.
> > Sissy Sathre
> > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: marsha wilburn
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> >
> >
> > I belong to several other message boards, and have heard people
> repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had to be removed
due to
> causing death.
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.5/1148 - Release Date:
11/23/2007 7:39 PM
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24925 From: Valeen Gonzalez Date: 12/8/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
Camel shrimp aren't reef safe. But if you have a fish only tank without
fish that like to munch on inverts then you should be fine with them.

http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inve\
rts--shrimp.html
<http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inv\
erts--shrimp.html>


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
>
> What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me it was agreeable,
> to the reef?
>
> Jodie
>
> Stacey Riga wrote:
> >
> > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > by Robert M. Fenner
> > In his book he states:
> > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> > beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> > corals."
> > Further on into the paragraph, it states
> > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> > invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> > reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable corals.
> > "
> >
> > --- Valeen Gonzalez valeendgonzalez@...
> > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but
> > > negative about the
> > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the
> > > regular cleaner
> > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral
> > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to
> > > look at than the
> > > regular cleaners.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy Sathre"
> > > ssathre@ wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any
> > > info of they being
> > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > sometimes.This is also
> > > my experance with them.
> > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I belong to several other message boards, and have
> > > heard people
> > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had
> > > to be removed due to
> > > causing death.
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24926 From: Frog Dog Date: 12/9/2007
Subject: Re: Coral banded shrimp
So far he hasn't bothered anything other critter in the tank, nor my
polyp. He mainly hangs out upside down under a rock.

Jodie

Valeen Gonzalez wrote:
>
>
> Camel shrimp aren't reef safe. But if you have a fish only tank without
> fish that like to munch on inverts then you should be fine with them.
>
> http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inve\
> rts--shrimp.html
> <http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inverts--shrimp.html>
> <http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inv\
> erts--shrimp.html
> <http://www.marinedepotlive.com/camel-shrimp---rhynchocinetes-uritai-inverts--shrimp.html>>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, Frog Dog <frogdog@...> wrote:
> >
> > What does it say about Camel Shrimp? The LFS told me it was agreeable,
> > to the reef?
> >
> > Jodie
> >
> > Stacey Riga wrote:
> > >
> > > "The Conscienctious Marine Aquarist."
> > > by Robert M. Fenner
> > > In his book he states:
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is an ideal choice for
> > > beginning aquarists, although it may attack soft
> > > corals."
> > > Further on into the paragraph, it states
> > > "The Banded Coral Shrimp is a good beginners
> > > invertabrate, but may prove to be problematic in a
> > > reef aquarium with small fishes or vulnerable corals.
> > > "
> > >
> > > --- Valeen Gonzalez valeendgonzalez@...
> > > <mailto:valeendgonzalez%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I, on the other hand, have never heard anything but
> > > > negative about the
> > > > Coral Banded Shrimp. That's why I've always had the
> > > > regular cleaner
> > > > shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) rather than the Coral
> > > > Banded. It's too bad
> > > > because the Coral Banded is much more interesting to
> > > > look at than the
> > > > regular cleaners.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>, "Sissy Sathre"
> > > > ssathre@ wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > I serched CB shrimp, to see if I could find any
> > > > info of they being
> > > > killers, and found nothing. Only peaceful
> > > > cleaners,with no ill effects
> > > > on fish or coral, only agressive to other shrimp
> > > > sometimes.This is also
> > > > my experance with them.
> > > > > Sissy Sathre
> > > > > DBA Aquariums By Sissy
> > > > > www.aquariumsbysissy.com
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: marsha wilburn
> > > > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2007 6:19 PM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Coral banded shrimp
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > I belong to several other message boards, and have
> > > > heard people
> > > > repeatedly saying that theirCBS was a killer or had
> > > > to be removed due to
> > > > causing death.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > > removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24927 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: New to the group
I am new to the group and I have had many fish before. I have six gold
fish in a ten gallon tank. I am consistantly checking the water,
checking the filter, making sure that the water is at the right temp.
But still algea keeps growing. I wash the sides of the glass with one
of those magntic scrubbers, I clean out the filter, take out the
decorations and wash them, with water only, I have even used the algea
killer stuff. Is it safe to use that stuff all of the time. Is there
something else that I can use beside adding more chemicals to the mix.
I try to keep the tank as natural as possible. I also want to show my
11 year old how to care for the tank but I want to get this under
control first. Thanks for your help, Jodi.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24928 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
I hate to break it to you but there is simply no way in the world that you
can keep six goldfish in a 10G tank. You can't even keep one in a 10G tank
for very long before it will become stunted and have health problems related
to the stunting, stress and water quality.

That is why you are having so many algae problems... because of the excess
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate and other fish waste that are nutrients for algae.

Here is my Goldfish Care Sheet with links to many other goldfish resources.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/goldfish-care-sheet-fancy-goldfish.htm
l (If the link wraps or breaks, go to my blog link in my sig and on the
right side, you will see Goldfish Care). As you will see, you really would
need a 100G++ sized tank for six goldfish if they are the round bodied type
and if they are the long bodied type, then 300G++.

If your local pet store or fish store told you it was OK to have goldfish in
a 10G tank, then do not take advice from them ever again about anything fish
related.

And now you need to break the bad news to your 11 year old as to why you
can't keep the goldfish but here is another article on my blog (written by
Hailey) on suitable 10G fish and stocking recommendations.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/03/haileys-10-gallon-tank-stocking-list.h
tml

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to the group

I am new to the group and I have had many fish before. I have six gold fish
in a ten gallon tank. I am consistantly checking the water, checking the
filter, making sure that the water is at the right temp.
But still algea keeps growing. I wash the sides of the glass with one of
those magntic scrubbers, I clean out the filter, take out the decorations
and wash them, with water only, I have even used the algea killer stuff. Is
it safe to use that stuff all of the time. Is there something else that I
can use beside adding more chemicals to the mix.
I try to keep the tank as natural as possible. I also want to show my
11 year old how to care for the tank but I want to get this under control
first. Thanks for your help, Jodi.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
11:06 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24929 From: wil Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: new to group w new NANO cube
My mom got me a 6 gal NANO cube for an early Christmas gift it has the
50/50 marine lamp in it now. Should I do a salt tank or get a 6500 lamp
for it and do a fresh water tank. I love the look of both, but I'm on a
tight budget and kind of new to all this stuff.

Thanks for your time
Wil
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24930 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
But here is the thing they are no longer than 2 or 3 inches long. I
bought the ones that will not get big. Does that make any difference. I
will certainly look at the links that you gave me.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I hate to break it to you but there is simply no way in the world
that you
> can keep six goldfish in a 10G tank. You can't even keep one in a
10G tank
> for very long before it will become stunted and have health problems
related
> to the stunting, stress and water quality.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24931 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
There's no such thing as a goldfish that doesn't get big. If someone at the
pet store told you this, then they gave you some really bad advice.

Round-bodied fancy goldfish should grow to 6"-8" (body length not including
the tail) but have the same body mass as the long-bodied varieties that
should grow to 12"-15" or more. A single adult sized goldfish, that is not
stunted due to being kept in an undersized tank, will be equal in body mass
to over 500 1" goldfish. This is why even a single goldfish cannot do very
well in a 10G tank. Fancy goldfish should live for well over 10 years and
even over 20 years if they are not stunted as juveniles. The world record
is 43 years.

As you will see from my Goldfish Care page, there are still a lot of sites,
many of them reputable, that tell people 10G per goldfish as a bare minimum
but when I've pressed the authors of those other care sheets, they admit
that 10G per goldfish is not enough but they don't want to change their care
sheet information because then they would have to admit that they had been
giving out BAD information for so many years.

Several years ago, I use to say 20G for the first goldfish and then 10G per
goldfish for each additional goldfish but I've admitted that I was wrong
with that information and now I tell folks about the 30G to 50G per goldfish
if you want them to not just survive, but to thrive.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 12:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

But here is the thing they are no longer than 2 or 3 inches long. I bought
the ones that will not get big. Does that make any difference. I will
certainly look at the links that you gave me.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I hate to break it to you but there is simply no way in the world
that you
> can keep six goldfish in a 10G tank. You can't even keep one in a
10G tank
> for very long before it will become stunted and have health problems
related
> to the stunting, stress and water quality.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
11:06 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24932 From: Carmen H Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Photos say it better than words. I just added a pic titled "poor
goldfish" in the photo section. When I saw the ad on Kijiji Toronto I
thought of all the things that Lenny says to new goldfish keepers
regarding space and appropriate housing. This guy probably had no
idea when he bought his little setup... I wish I had a spare large
tank, I'd answer the ad, probably freecycle the tank, and save the
poor fish :-(

Carmen



On Dec 10, 2007 9:52 PM, Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> There's no such thing as a goldfish that doesn't get big.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24933 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not
have anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
with my supervision.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24934 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since they will
quickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all males or all
females... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.

Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them back and
at least give you store credit that you can use for other more suitable fish
for your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble, tell them
you will give out the name and address of their store on the internet and
tell them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on them and
GoldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal cruelty
groups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will report them
to any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over their store.
I'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of these
proposed threats. ;-)

If you got the fish for free or won them at a school fair or something like
that and you definitely want to keep them, then you need to work on a couple
of 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are a very common size (48"
x 12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even free on
sites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or penny shopper
classified type papers.

You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org for giving
away the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one 100G++ tank
although you won't usually find really big tanks for free.

You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up kind) and
set up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside in your
area. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans online to
build your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less costly than
buying a new big tank.

Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll try to
brainstorm other low-cost ideas.

If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know and I'll
help you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger home so you
do not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article on Filter
Maintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of cleaning your
filter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your tank.

In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial water
changes), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to get a
much larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the pollution
levels down in your undersized tank.

I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had six puppies
in a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel daily to
remove the poop and pee.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not have
anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them with my
supervision.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
11:06 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24935 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
You could get a bigger tank!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.



So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not
have anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
with my supervision.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24936 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Move them to a larger tank. A 55 gallon (4' long) would do fine for a bit, while you look around to see where you would put that 180 or 200 gallon tank (5-6' long or so), if you kept all 6 goldfish alive.

Take all six back to the store where you bought them for a refund, and make sure you speak to the owner or the manager about the bad information the help is giving out. I would go for the cash and take my business elsewhere to get the guppies, or other, more suitable fish for the size tank you have.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:35 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not
have anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
with my supervision.



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24937 From: bmp Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Hi Jodi Lynn,

First of all, welcome to the group. I am fairly new to
the group myself and am enjoying it so far.

I know your frustration even though I am not a
goldfish keeper. I have rainbowfish and I did my
research before I bought them. Believe me, it was a
leap of faith when I plunked down the several dollars
each for these beautiful but unfamiliar fish. I felt I
had the right tank size for the ones I decided on,
based on what I had read. Sadly, not everyone agrees
on such basics as the minimum tank size needed, I
later realized. So, it turns out that what I have
going is not quite what I need. After conducting
further research, to the point of keeping a pencil
mark tally of what different books, websites, magazine
articles said was needed, I realized that the majority
opinion was that I needed a longer tank. We bought one
last night and will set it up once the crush of
Christmas preparations diminishes.

About your goldfish. Please never, ever, ever even
consider flushing live fish. It is one of the cruelest
things a person could do to them. Instead, even if
your petshop won't take them back, maybe it has a
bulletin board where you can post a notice offering
them to another home with a larger tank. You could
also offer them on http://www.craigslist.com for your
area or join freecycle (many local groups also have a
corresponding yahoogroup for which you can search at
http://groups.yahoo.com) Ask around at your local
college or university biology department to see if
they can take them. I do hope you can find a larger
home for them somehow. Some Chinese restaurants have
goldfish ponds outdoors--is there one near you? I'm
trying to think of any possibility.

Once you are ready to try something different, maybe
you could try platies (they come in similar colors as
goldies, are active, do not defecate as much nor do
they disturb plants and get to a maximum size of about
2-2.5 inches for females, smaller for males). Another
possibility for activity, color and flowing fins but
without need for a huge tank are long-finned rosy
barbs. I never paid them any attention in the shops
but this summer we kept one for a teacher during
summer break. We all found it to be surprisingly
lovely (metallic sheen to the males' pink/green/gold
body and long, flowing fins), an active but not manic
swimmer and an eager eater. To me, their beauty is
similar to that of a goldfish but more interesting.

One way or another, I hope you can soon find what will
work well for you and your children. I have a child
too and that is why we started keeping fish again
after many years away from it.

Best wishes,
Beverly in Texas

--- Jodi Lynn Reeves <jodilynnreeves@...> wrote:

> So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with
> guppies? I do not
> have anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching
> them, feeding them
> with my supervision.
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24938 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Lenny,



Don't tell PeTA, they would just take credit for killing them. They kill thousands of pets every year.



-Mike



www.petakillsanimals.com




GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on them and
oldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization




-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 8:14 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.



NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since they will
uickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all males or all
emales... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them back and
t least give you store credit that you can use for other more suitable fish
or your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble, tell them
ou will give out the name and address of their store on the internet and
ell them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on them and
oldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal cruelty
roups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will report them
o any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over their store.
'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of these
roposed threats. ;-)
If you got the fish for free or won them at a school fair or something like
hat and you definitely want to keep them, then you need to work on a couple
f 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are a very common size (48"
12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even free on
ites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or penny shopper
lassified type papers.
You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org for giving
way the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one 100G++ tank
lthough you won't usually find really big tanks for free.
You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up kind) and
et up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside in your
rea. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans online to
uild your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less costly than
uying a new big tank.
Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll try to
rainstorm other low-cost ideas.
If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know and I'll
elp you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger home so you
o not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article on Filter
aintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of cleaning your
ilter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your tank.
In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial water
hanges), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to get a
uch larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the pollution
evels down in your undersized tank.
I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had six puppies
n a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel daily to
emove the poop and pee.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
ehalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
ent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
ubject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not have
nyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them with my
upervision.

o virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
1:06 AM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
ahoo! Groups Links
Individual Email | Traditional
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24939 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
picketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the
far-left groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun
politically. LOL

On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
letter of 15-20 words of my reply?

On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
the f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
On the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter
is repeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned
this to you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other
replies to see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.


Lenny,

Don't tell PeTA, they would just take credit for killing them. They kill
thousands of pets every year.

-Mike

www.petakillsanimals.com

GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on them and oldLenny will
report them to the local PeTA organization

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 8:14 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since they will
uickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all males or all
emales... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them back and
t least give you store credit that you can use for other more suitable fish
or your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble, tell them ou
will give out the name and address of their store on the internet and ell
them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on them and
oldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal cruelty
roups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will report them o
any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over their store.
'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of these
roposed threats. ;-) If you got the fish for free or won them at a school
fair or something like hat and you definitely want to keep them, then you
need to work on a couple f 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are
a very common size (48"
12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even free on ites
like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or penny shopper
lassified type papers.
You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org for giving
way the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one 100G++ tank
lthough you won't usually find really big tanks for free.
You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up kind) and
et up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside in your
rea. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans online to uild
your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less costly than uying a
new big tank.
Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll try to
rainstorm other low-cost ideas.
If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know and I'll
elp you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger home so you o
not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article on Filter
aintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of cleaning your
ilter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your tank.
In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial water
hanges), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to get a uch
larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the pollution evels
down in your undersized tank.
I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had six puppies
n a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel daily to emove
the poop and pee.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On ehalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
ent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
ubject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do not have
nyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them with my
upervision.

o virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
1:06 AM


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007
11:06 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24940 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/10/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Here is the deal we got them for free from a lady in another little
town out here in the sticks of KS. She has a real nice big tank. She
is the one who told me what kind they were. I have had them for
almost a year now. They have even made it throught a 80 mile move. We
have a very small house. I do have another 10 gallon tank but I do
not have a stand for it and I do not have a heater. I live in
Herington, KS. Which is basically 26 miles south of Fort Riley, KS,
Junction City. I really enjoy the fish and my children enjoy helping
me take care of them. We do it together. I look on all of the
freecycle sites for fish stuff there really is not much listed. That
is how I got the second tank because I needed a heater and the lady
gave me her whole set up. I also have one of those little 1 gallon
tanks but it does not erate real well and the guppies that I had in
it died.

While, I would never flush a live fish but I guess I was just a
little frustrated by one of the comments. And I felt like there was
no other option. Any help would be appericated. To be honest I have
other pets and three of the four have been rescued due to knowing
people that were going to put them down or we found them dumped. But
that is my soap box.

Thank you for your help with trees falling all around from the ice.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since
they will
> quickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all males
or all
> females... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
>
> Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them
back and
> at least give you store credit that you can use for other more
suitable fish
> for your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble,
tell them
> you will give out the name and address of their store on the
internet and
> tell them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on
them and
> GoldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal
cruelty
> groups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will
report them
> to any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over
their store.
> I'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of
these
> proposed threats. ;-)
>
> If you got the fish for free or won them at a school fair or
something like
> that and you definitely want to keep them, then you need to work on
a couple
> of 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are a very common
size (48"
> x 12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even
free on
> sites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or
penny shopper
> classified type papers.
>
> You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org for
giving
> away the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one
100G++ tank
> although you won't usually find really big tanks for free.
>
> You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up
kind) and
> set up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside
in your
> area. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans
online to
> build your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less
costly than
> buying a new big tank.
>
> Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll
try to
> brainstorm other low-cost ideas.
>
> If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know
and I'll
> help you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger home
so you
> do not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article
on Filter
> Maintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of cleaning
your
> filter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your tank.
>
> In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial
water
> changes), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to
get a
> much larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the
pollution
> levels down in your undersized tank.
>
> I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had six
puppies
> in a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel
daily to
> remove the poop and pee.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
>
> So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do
not have
> anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
with my
> supervision.
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date:
12/9/2007
> 11:06 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24941 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Hi Neighbor,
I live in KCMO. My best friend works at Riley. But,
I'm sorry I can't help with the fish :( I am in SW.
Nice to hear you rescue animals. Remember fish are
living beings too, and it is our responsiblity to try
to give them the best care possible. I hope you
understand no one on here is trying to preach. It
takes a lot if time to learn. You will make mistakes,
so don't get frustrated. You can do it. It is worth
it, once you start getting the basics down. You did
the right thing asking for guidance. Even if you don't
get store credit, I am sure a fish store will take
them for you. Let's face it, even if you did get a
store credit, it would not be but a few dollars, so
just try to give them to an enthusiasts first, and if
you have no luck, then take them to a fish store. A
mom and pop store would probably be more willing to
take them than a big box.
Lenny is a very advanced aquarists, if youu follow his
advice on the stocking and care tips, you and your
children will enjoy this hobby more, and the tank will
look beautiful with healthy fish.
Best of luck :)
Stace
--- Jodi Lynn Reeves <jodilynnreeves@...> wrote:

> Here is the deal we got them for free from a lady in
> another little
> town out here in the sticks of KS. She has a real
> nice big tank. She
> is the one who told me what kind they were. I have
> had them for
> almost a year now. They have even made it throught a
> 80 mile move. We
> have a very small house. I do have another 10 gallon
> tank but I do
> not have a stand for it and I do not have a heater.
> I live in
> Herington, KS. Which is basically 26 miles south of
> Fort Riley, KS,
> Junction City. I really enjoy the fish and my
> children enjoy helping
> me take care of them. We do it together. I look on
> all of the
> freecycle sites for fish stuff there really is not
> much listed. That
> is how I got the second tank because I needed a
> heater and the lady
> gave me her whole set up. I also have one of those
> little 1 gallon
> tanks but it does not erate real well and the
> guppies that I had in
> it died.
>
> While, I would never flush a live fish but I guess I
> was just a
> little frustrated by one of the comments. And I felt
> like there was
> no other option. Any help would be appericated. To
> be honest I have
> other pets and three of the four have been rescued
> due to knowing
> people that were going to put them down or we found
> them dumped. But
> that is my soap box.
>
> Thank you for your help with trees falling all
> around from the ice.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka
> GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
> >
> > NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies
> either since
> they will
> > quickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you
> go with all males
> or all
> > females... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
> >
> > Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store,
> make them take them
> back and
> > at least give you store credit that you can use
> for other more
> suitable fish
> > for your size tank or fish supplies. If they give
> you trouble,
> tell them
> > you will give out the name and address of their
> store on the
> internet and
> > tell them that GoldLenny will personally write a
> scathing expose on
> them and
> > GoldLenny will report them to the local PeTA
> organization, animal
> cruelty
> > groups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that
> GoldLenny will
> report them
> > to any and all regulatory agencies that may have
> oversight over
> their store.
> > I'm sure they'll give you store credit without the
> need for all of
> these
> > proposed threats. ;-)
> >
> > If you got the fish for free or won them at a
> school fair or
> something like
> > that and you definitely want to keep them, then
> you need to work on
> a couple
> > of 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks
> are a very common
> size (48"
> > x 12" foot print) and can often be found for a low
> cost or even
> free on
> > sites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at
> Garage Sales or
> penny shopper
> > classified type papers.
> >
> > You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and
> FreeCycle.org for
> giving
> > away the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two
> 55G tanks or one
> 100G++ tank
> > although you won't usually find really big tanks
> for free.
> >
> > You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool
> (not the blow up
> kind) and
> > set up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it
> freezes outside
> in your
> > area. If you know a handyman (like me), there are
> free plans
> online to
> > build your own plywood tank with glass front that
> is much less
> costly than
> > buying a new big tank.
> >
> > Tell me more about your situation, where you live,
> etc., and I'll
> try to
> > brainstorm other low-cost ideas.
> >
> > If you do decide to try one of these low-cost
> options, let me know
> and I'll
> > help you make the transition from the small tank
> to the bigger home
> so you
> > do not shock the fish with the change. Also, read
> my blog article
> on Filter
> > Maintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the
> mistake of cleaning
> your
> > filter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite
> spikes in your tank.
> >
> > In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% -
> 33% PWC's (partial
> water
> > changes), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until
> you are able to
> get a
> > much larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's
> will help keep the
> pollution
> > levels down in your undersized tank.
> >
> > I know it's a lot of work but it's no different
> than if you had six
> puppies
> > in a small kennel and you would have to be
> cleaning the kennel
> daily to
> > remove the poop and pee.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
> > Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group
> another question.
> >
> > So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go
> with guppies? I do
> not have
> > anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them,
> feeding them
> with my
> > supervision.
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179
> - Release Date:
> 12/9/2007
> > 11:06 AM
> >
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24942 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: PETA (non fish)
AMEN Mike!!!
In the 15 + years I have been showing dogs, at least 4
had incidences of Peta "rescueing" dogs. One show they
let 3+ dogs out of their crates at the same time!!
2 escaped the building. One ran into the road.
Thankfully, the group trying to catch that dog got it
before it got hit. The one I was part of the group
trying to catch, ran into a ball field. Yes, it is
fenced. But had two exits. I was running, jumped a
chainlink fence, ripped my skirt, popped a button on
my blouse, tore my panty hose to shreds, but we
finally got it caught too. Of course we didn't just
chase it down, we knew better than that, and stayed
calm when we finally got close enough. It was a
Whippet, so was fast as greased lightening. It was a
large rescue group and finally got it coralled, while
some blocked the exits. We started sweet talking and
it didn't hurt we all had liver in our pockets ;)
When I finally took my dog into the ring, the judge
asked if my charge was one of the dogs. I told her no,
but we did catch the one I was after. I assured her
all dogs were fine. I still didn't win, but it wasn't
due to my ripped and dirty cloths.
Those are just the shows where I had personal
experience. It happens frequently, and they call
themselves the 'rescuers'. They are Blinded extremists
in my opinion. Off of my soap box and back to fishes.
Stace
--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Lenny,
>
>
>
> Don't tell PeTA, they would just take credit for
> killing them. They kill thousands of pets every
> year.
>
>
>
> -Mike
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24943 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Goldfish do not need a heater, especially if they are being kept in your
home. They are actually cool-cold water fish and do best at room
temperatures in the high 60's to low 70's. Goldfish are pretty tough fish
and live through some horrific conditions due to the bad info that many
people get about them. The fancy goldfish aren't as tough due to the
cross-breeding that takes place to create the fancy effect but they still
put up with a lot of unintentional abuse due to the lack of knowledge of
many owners.

What you could do until you have a chance to get a much larger official tank
is get a large plastic storage bin (50-60 gallon size) and use that as a
temporary home for them. You could set this on the floor, preferably in a
corner (to keep it from getting bumped and sloshed around) and it would kind
of be like a mini indoor "pond". Of course, with little ones around, you'll
have to guard the "pond" from the kids being able to throw stuff into it.

To prepare the "pond" for the fish, you would need to do a series of four
25% PWC's, one every 2-3 hours, on your 10G tank to get the water to a
relatively clean state. You almost never want to do a large water change
since changing the water parameters too much, too fast can cause water temp
or osmotic shock or stress issues which can do more harm than the good you
might have been trying to do with the water change. Fish slowly acclimate
to the bad water so you have to slowly acclimate them back to good water
which is the reason for the series of 25% PWC's. Make sure you use a
dechlor product if you have chlorine or chloramine in your tap water. After
you have their tank water in good condition and you've vacuumed as much of
the detritus (fish poop, etc.) out of the gravel, then you are ready to
start making the move.

Make sure the tank and the "pond" have similar water temperatures and if you
have a test kit, make sure the pH levels and other parameters are nearly
identical also. Then you can move the filter system (I know it's too small
but it's better than nothing for now) and decorations from the 10G to the
"pond". Then move the fish from the tank to the pond. Then use a colander
and slotted spoon to scoop up your gravel and fill the colander letting the
old dirty water drain into the 10G. Then place the colander full of gravel
into the "pond" and slowly spread the gravel over the bottom of the "pond".
By transferring the gravel, decorations and filter (DO NOT CLEAN THE FILTER
OR CHANGE THE FILTER CARTRIDGE DURING THIS MOVE), you will be moving the
majority of the good nitrifying bacteria so you should not have a mini-cycle
(The Nitrogen Cycle - read up on this on my blog if you don't know about it
already) but you will still have to check the water for
ammonia/nitrite/nitrate daily for a week or two to make sure it's staying
0.0/0.0/less than 40ppm.

After you make the switch and as your budget allows, you can eventually get
a canister filter system (I use the Rena Filstar xP-1 and xP-3, since they
are good canister systems at a reasonably low price) for the "pond" and
if/when you get a large tank, the canister can be moved to it also. Also
get some live plants (Anacharis/Elodea are low cost and can just float on
the top of the water) which will further help keep the water clean and add
extra O2 to the water. Presuming your current filter system is one of the
HOB variety (Hang On Back), make sure the waterfall from the HOB is creating
a splash back into the "pond" so that will help keep the water oxygenated
and allow for CO2 and nitrogenous gases to outgas from the water.

Welcome to the not so cheap world of goldfish keeping. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:17 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

Here is the deal we got them for free from a lady in another little town out
here in the sticks of KS. She has a real nice big tank. She is the one who
told me what kind they were. I have had them for almost a year now. They
have even made it throught a 80 mile move. We have a very small house. I do
have another 10 gallon tank but I do not have a stand for it and I do not
have a heater. I live in Herington, KS. Which is basically 26 miles south of
Fort Riley, KS, Junction City. I really enjoy the fish and my children enjoy
helping me take care of them. We do it together. I look on all of the
freecycle sites for fish stuff there really is not much listed. That is how
I got the second tank because I needed a heater and the lady gave me her
whole set up. I also have one of those little 1 gallon tanks but it does not
erate real well and the guppies that I had in it died.

While, I would never flush a live fish but I guess I was just a little
frustrated by one of the comments. And I felt like there was no other
option. Any help would be appericated. To be honest I have other pets and
three of the four have been rescued due to knowing people that were going to
put them down or we found them dumped. But that is my soap box.

Thank you for your help with trees falling all around from the ice.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since
they will
> quickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all males
or all
> females... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
>
> Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them
back and
> at least give you store credit that you can use for other more
suitable fish
> for your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble,
tell them
> you will give out the name and address of their store on the
internet and
> tell them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose on
them and
> GoldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal
cruelty
> groups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will
report them
> to any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over
their store.
> I'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of
these
> proposed threats. ;-)
>
> If you got the fish for free or won them at a school fair or
something like
> that and you definitely want to keep them, then you need to work on
a couple
> of 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are a very common
size (48"
> x 12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even
free on
> sites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or
penny shopper
> classified type papers.
>
> You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org for
giving
> away the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one
100G++ tank
> although you won't usually find really big tanks for free.
>
> You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up
kind) and
> set up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside
in your
> area. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans
online to
> build your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less
costly than
> buying a new big tank.
>
> Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll
try to
> brainstorm other low-cost ideas.
>
> If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know
and I'll
> help you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger home
so you
> do not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article
on Filter
> Maintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of cleaning
your
> filter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your tank.
>
> In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial
water
> changes), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to
get a
> much larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the
pollution
> levels down in your undersized tank.
>
> I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had six
puppies
> in a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel
daily to
> remove the poop and pee.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
> Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
>
> So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do
not have
> anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
with my
> supervision.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24944 From: siricheeri Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Another option. Most company's that install ponds have gorgeous
display ponds, with stock. I am sure one would adopt your fish, so
you could just stock the tank you have with appropiate fish.
stace
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Goldfish do not need a heater, especially if they are being kept in
your
> home. They are actually cool-cold water fish and do best at room
> temperatures in the high 60's to low 70's. Goldfish are pretty
tough fish
> and live through some horrific conditions due to the bad info that
many
> people get about them. The fancy goldfish aren't as tough due to
the
> cross-breeding that takes place to create the fancy effect but they
still
> put up with a lot of unintentional abuse due to the lack of
knowledge of
> many owners.
>
> What you could do until you have a chance to get a much larger
official tank
> is get a large plastic storage bin (50-60 gallon size) and use that
as a
> temporary home for them. You could set this on the floor,
preferably in a
> corner (to keep it from getting bumped and sloshed around) and it
would kind
> of be like a mini indoor "pond". Of course, with little ones
around, you'll
> have to guard the "pond" from the kids being able to throw stuff
into it.
>
> To prepare the "pond" for the fish, you would need to do a series
of four
> 25% PWC's, one every 2-3 hours, on your 10G tank to get the water
to a
> relatively clean state. You almost never want to do a large water
change
> since changing the water parameters too much, too fast can cause
water temp
> or osmotic shock or stress issues which can do more harm than the
good you
> might have been trying to do with the water change. Fish slowly
acclimate
> to the bad water so you have to slowly acclimate them back to good
water
> which is the reason for the series of 25% PWC's. Make sure you use
a
> dechlor product if you have chlorine or chloramine in your tap
water. After
> you have their tank water in good condition and you've vacuumed as
much of
> the detritus (fish poop, etc.) out of the gravel, then you are
ready to
> start making the move.
>
> Make sure the tank and the "pond" have similar water temperatures
and if you
> have a test kit, make sure the pH levels and other parameters are
nearly
> identical also. Then you can move the filter system (I know it's
too small
> but it's better than nothing for now) and decorations from the 10G
to the
> "pond". Then move the fish from the tank to the pond. Then use a
colander
> and slotted spoon to scoop up your gravel and fill the colander
letting the
> old dirty water drain into the 10G. Then place the colander full
of gravel
> into the "pond" and slowly spread the gravel over the bottom of
the "pond".
> By transferring the gravel, decorations and filter (DO NOT CLEAN
THE FILTER
> OR CHANGE THE FILTER CARTRIDGE DURING THIS MOVE), you will be
moving the
> majority of the good nitrifying bacteria so you should not have a
mini-cycle
> (The Nitrogen Cycle - read up on this on my blog if you don't know
about it
> already) but you will still have to check the water for
> ammonia/nitrite/nitrate daily for a week or two to make sure it's
staying
> 0.0/0.0/less than 40ppm.
>
> After you make the switch and as your budget allows, you can
eventually get
> a canister filter system (I use the Rena Filstar xP-1 and xP-3,
since they
> are good canister systems at a reasonably low price) for the "pond"
and
> if/when you get a large tank, the canister can be moved to it
also. Also
> get some live plants (Anacharis/Elodea are low cost and can just
float on
> the top of the water) which will further help keep the water clean
and add
> extra O2 to the water. Presuming your current filter system is one
of the
> HOB variety (Hang On Back), make sure the waterfall from the HOB is
creating
> a splash back into the "pond" so that will help keep the water
oxygenated
> and allow for CO2 and nitrogenous gases to outgas from the water.
>
> Welcome to the not so cheap world of goldfish keeping. ;-)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
> Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 1:17 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
>
> Here is the deal we got them for free from a lady in another little
town out
> here in the sticks of KS. She has a real nice big tank. She is the
one who
> told me what kind they were. I have had them for almost a year now.
They
> have even made it throught a 80 mile move. We have a very small
house. I do
> have another 10 gallon tank but I do not have a stand for it and I
do not
> have a heater. I live in Herington, KS. Which is basically 26 miles
south of
> Fort Riley, KS, Junction City. I really enjoy the fish and my
children enjoy
> helping me take care of them. We do it together. I look on all of
the
> freecycle sites for fish stuff there really is not much listed.
That is how
> I got the second tank because I needed a heater and the lady gave
me her
> whole set up. I also have one of those little 1 gallon tanks but it
does not
> erate real well and the guppies that I had in it died.
>
> While, I would never flush a live fish but I guess I was just a
little
> frustrated by one of the comments. And I felt like there was no
other
> option. Any help would be appericated. To be honest I have other
pets and
> three of the four have been rescued due to knowing people that were
going to
> put them down or we found them dumped. But that is my soap box.
>
> Thank you for your help with trees falling all around from the ice.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ,
> "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > NO! Do not flush them. And don't go with guppies either since
> they will
> > quickly outbreed your 10G tank also... unless you go with all
males
> or all
> > females... see the 10G stocking list on my blog.
> >
> > Where did you get the goldfish? If at a store, make them take them
> back and
> > at least give you store credit that you can use for other more
> suitable fish
> > for your size tank or fish supplies. If they give you trouble,
> tell them
> > you will give out the name and address of their store on the
> internet and
> > tell them that GoldLenny will personally write a scathing expose
on
> them and
> > GoldLenny will report them to the local PeTA organization, animal
> cruelty
> > groups and animal shelters. Also, tell them that GoldLenny will
> report them
> > to any and all regulatory agencies that may have oversight over
> their store.
> > I'm sure they'll give you store credit without the need for all of
> these
> > proposed threats. ;-)
> >
> > If you got the fish for free or won them at a school fair or
> something like
> > that and you definitely want to keep them, then you need to work
on
> a couple
> > of 55G tanks or one much bigger tank. 55G tanks are a very common
> size (48"
> > x 12" foot print) and can often be found for a low cost or even
> free on
> > sites like Craigslist.org, FreeCycle.org or at Garage Sales or
> penny shopper
> > classified type papers.
> >
> > You could also post free ads on Craiglist.org and FreeCycle.org
for
> giving
> > away the goldfish or wanted ads for getting two 55G tanks or one
> 100G++ tank
> > although you won't usually find really big tanks for free.
> >
> > You could also get a (hard) plastic kiddie pool (not the blow up
> kind) and
> > set up a mini-pond outside or in your garage if it freezes outside
> in your
> > area. If you know a handyman (like me), there are free plans
> online to
> > build your own plywood tank with glass front that is much less
> costly than
> > buying a new big tank.
> >
> > Tell me more about your situation, where you live, etc., and I'll
> try to
> > brainstorm other low-cost ideas.
> >
> > If you do decide to try one of these low-cost options, let me know
> and I'll
> > help you make the transition from the small tank to the bigger
home
> so you
> > do not shock the fish with the change. Also, read my blog article
> on Filter
> > Maintenance and Cleaning so you do not make the mistake of
cleaning
> your
> > filter too much which can cause ammonia/nitrite spikes in your
tank.
> >
> > In the interim, you should be doing daily 25% - 33% PWC's (partial
> water
> > changes), vacuuming the gravel with each PWC until you are able to
> get a
> > much larger tank. At least the frequent PWC's will help keep the
> pollution
> > levels down in your undersized tank.
> >
> > I know it's a lot of work but it's no different than if you had
six
> puppies
> > in a small kennel and you would have to be cleaning the kennel
> daily to
> > remove the poop and pee.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com> ]
> On
> > Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
> > Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 9:35 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
40yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.
> >
> > So what do I do with my fish? Flush them and go with guppies? I do
> not have
> > anyone take them. Plus my kids like watching them, feeding them
> with my
> > supervision.
> >
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date:
12/10/2007
> 2:51 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24945 From: Daniel R. Jackson Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
I've always heard, but never read, that algae in your tank is a sign of a
healthy tank. But it is a pain to keep off the glass.

Dan

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to the group



I am new to the group and I have had many fish before. I have six gold
fish in a ten gallon tank. I am consistantly checking the water,
checking the filter, making sure that the water is at the right temp.
But still algea keeps growing. I wash the sides of the glass with one
of those magntic scrubbers, I clean out the filter, take out the
decorations and wash them, with water only, I have even used the algea
killer stuff. Is it safe to use that stuff all of the time. Is there
something else that I can use beside adding more chemicals to the mix.
I try to keep the tank as natural as possible. I also want to show my
11 year old how to care for the tank but I want to get this under
control first. Thanks for your help, Jodi.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24946 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Hi Lenny,

That took a huge concern away when you said you were aware of PeTA and their background :)

I was not aware my reply was stripping away letters. Thank you for pointing it out. If this reply has done the same thing I will look into it and try and figure out what is going on.

Thanks Lenny,

-Mike



LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
picketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the
far-left groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun
politically. LOL

On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
letter of 15-20 words of my reply?

On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
the f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
On the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter
is repeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned
this to you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other
replies to see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----

________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24947 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Jody,

Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish?? And not something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in, in the middle I think.
If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2 inches long can they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow slowly, but....
Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24948 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: PETA (non fish)
Hi stace,

What a nightmare!

They are indeed blind extremists and their motto should be "By any means necessary" as they kill more than they help.

If anyone wants to help animals in need your LOCAL shelters are where you should help. The National ones like Human Society of the United States do not even have one shelter! When they do "help" a local shelter they charge that shelter Money for their "help". Even for information they sell it to our local shelters. HSUS is currently under investigation with the Louisiana Attorney General for missing funds from the Katrina Donations that never made it to the area. Millions of dollars redirected to the wrong area, advertising for the HSUS!

Glad you were able to retrieve the dogs. I know out here in thr Bay Area thes nut jobs have done terrorist acts on Bio Tech firms.

-Mike






AMEN Mike!!!
In the 15 + years I have been showing dogs, at least 4
had incidences of Peta "rescueing" dogs. One show they
let 3+ dogs out of their crates at the same time!!
2 escaped the building. One ran into the road.
Thankfully, the group trying to catch that dog got it
before it got hit. The one I was part of the group
trying to catch, ran into a ball field. Yes, it is
fenced. But had two exits. I was running, jumped a
chainlink fence, ripped my skirt, popped a button on
my blouse, tore my panty hose to shreds, but we
finally got it caught too. Of course we didn't just
chase it down, we knew better than that, and stayed
calm when we finally got close enough. It was a
Whippet, so was fast as greased lightening. It was a
large rescue group and finally got it coralled, while
some blocked the exits. We started sweet talking and
it didn't hurt we all had liver in our pockets ;)
When I finally took my dog into the ring, the judge
asked if my charge was one of the dogs. I told her no,
but we did catch the one I was after. I assured her
all dogs were fine. I still didn't win, but it wasn't
due to my ripped and dirty cloths.
Those are just the shows where I had personal
experience. It happens frequently, and they call
themselves the 'rescuers'. They are Blinded extremists
in my opinion. Off of my soap box and back to fishes.
Stace







-----Original Message-----
From: Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 6:42 am
Subject: [AquaticLife] PETA (non fish)






AMEN Mike!!!
In the 15 + years I have been showing dogs, at least 4
had incidences of Peta "rescueing" dogs. One show they
let 3+ dogs out of their crates at the same time!!
2 escaped the building. One ran into the road.
Thankfully, the group trying to catch that dog got it
before it got hit. The one I was part of the group
trying to catch, ran into a ball field. Yes, it is
fenced. But had two exits. I was running, jumped a
chainlink fence, ripped my skirt, popped a button on
my blouse, tore my panty hose to shreds, but we
finally got it caught too. Of course we didn't just
chase it down, we knew better than that, and stayed
calm when we finally got close enough. It was a
Whippet, so was fast as greased lightening. It was a
large rescue group and finally got it coralled, while
some blocked the exits. We started sweet talking and
it didn't hurt we all had liver in our pockets ;)
When I finally took my dog into the ring, the judge
asked if my charge was one of the dogs. I told her no,
but we did catch the one I was after. I assured her
all dogs were fine. I still didn't win, but it wasn't
due to my ripped and dirty cloths.
Those are just the shows where I had personal
experience. It happens frequently, and they call
themselves the 'rescuers'. They are Blinded extremists
in my opinion. Off of my soap box and back to fishes.
Stace
--- Deenerz@... wrote:

>
> Lenny,
>
>
>
> Don't tell PeTA, they would just take credit for
> killing them. They kill thousands of pets every
> year.
>
>
>
> -Mike





________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24949 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Technically, if you want your tank to be as much like nature intended, then
yes, it should have algae since nearly all natural bodies of water have
algae.

Some algae is good since it will help with the processing of nitrates,
phosphates and other things that may be bad for the tank but too much algae
usually means you have a problem with too much nitrates, phosphates, etc.

When you do clean the glass, leave one pane of glass with the algae on it.
That way, that left over algae will help with the eating of waste nutrients
so algae will grow more slowly on your other panes of glass as it returns.
If you have a background where the algae on the back glass blends in with
the background, then you never have to clean the back glass. That would
help with keeping the algae from growing back as fast on the other three
panes of glass.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Daniel R. Jackson
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 11:36 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

I've always heard, but never read, that algae in your tank is a sign of a
healthy tank. But it is a pain to keep off the glass.

Dan

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Monday, December 10, 2007 10:33 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [AquaticLife] New to the group

I am new to the group and I have had many fish before. I have six gold fish
in a ten gallon tank. I am consistantly checking the water, checking the
filter, making sure that the water is at the right temp.
But still algea keeps growing. I wash the sides of the glass with one of
those magntic scrubbers, I clean out the filter, take out the decorations
and wash them, with water only, I have even used the algea killer stuff. Is
it safe to use that stuff all of the time. Is there something else that I
can use beside adding more chemicals to the mix.
I try to keep the tank as natural as possible. I also want to show my
11 year old how to care for the tank but I want to get this under control
first. Thanks for your help, Jodi.

[

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24950 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: PETA (non fish)
Stacey said:

"I was running, jumped a chainlink fence, ripped my skirt, popped a button
on my blouse, tore my panty hose to shreds, ..."

Whew... I'm glad you got back to rescuing the dogs. I thought you morphed
into a screenplay for a low budget porn or horror flick for a second there.
LOL

"... I still didn't win, but it wasn't due to my ripped and dirty cloths."

You're a winner in my mind! ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:42 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] PETA (non fish)

AMEN Mike!!!
In the 15 + years I have been showing dogs, at least 4 had incidences of
Peta "rescueing" dogs. One show they let 3+ dogs out of their crates at the
same time!!
2 escaped the building. One ran into the road.
Thankfully, the group trying to catch that dog got it before it got hit. The
one I was part of the group trying to catch, ran into a ball field. Yes, it
is fenced. But had two exits. I was running, jumped a chainlink fence,
ripped my skirt, popped a button on my blouse, tore my panty hose to shreds,
but we finally got it caught too. Of course we didn't just chase it down, we
knew better than that, and stayed calm when we finally got close enough. It
was a Whippet, so was fast as greased lightening. It was a large rescue
group and finally got it coralled, while some blocked the exits. We started
sweet talking and it didn't hurt we all had liver in our pockets ;) When I
finally took my dog into the ring, the judge asked if my charge was one of
the dogs. I told her no, but we did catch the one I was after. I assured her
all dogs were fine. I still didn't win, but it wasn't due to my ripped and
dirty cloths.
Those are just the shows where I had personal experience. It happens
frequently, and they call themselves the 'rescuers'. They are Blinded
extremists in my opinion. Off of my soap box and back to fishes.
Stace
--- Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com> wrote:

>
> Lenny,
>
>
>
> Don't tell PeTA, they would just take credit for killing them. They
> kill thousands of pets every year.
>
>
>
> -Mike


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24951 From: Robert Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Snail
Can a snail have babies on its own?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24952 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Hmmmm.... this time, no letters are missing. That's weird. I'm going to
have to go to the webpage and see what is showing up there. It's no big
deal but that sure is strange to see my OP that looks like I was drunk when
I typed it when it shows back up in your reply. LOL

I did see someone in a group once that had some kind of virus that changed
links in the original post that was part of their reply.... it usually
changed the links to some malicious sites. I don't see any kind of pattern
and I use plain text for Yahoo groups so it's not missing html or any
special fonts but it only affected the first letter of certain words and it
was random letters/words so I'm not sure what's up with that. Could just be
a random Yahoo Groups thing.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:31 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.


Hi Lenny,

That took a huge concern away when you said you were aware of PeTA and their
background :)

I was not aware my reply was stripping away letters. Thank you for pointing
it out. If this reply has done the same thing I will look into it and try
and figure out what is going on.

Thanks Lenny,

-Mike

LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
picketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the
far-left groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun
politically. LOL

On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
letter of 15-20 words of my reply?

On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
the f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
On the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter is
repeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned this
to you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other replies
to see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24953 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Lisa,

If anyone was to keep fish that were supposed to get big (some common
species that this happens to are goldfish, common plecos, oscars, etc. or
even the betta in a jar or vase) in a severely overstocked tank or
undersized tank, it would cause the fish to self-stunt themselves as part of
their survival mechanism. While they would survive while stunted, they
would most likely not live out a full and healthy life.

Actually, goldfish and many other "big" fish do not grow slowly. They just
seem to in many tanks because of the stunting issue. In a proper sized
tank, a goldfish will reach 75% of it's growth in the first 1-2 years and
90% after 4-5 years. If after a year or two, your fish hasn't reach full
expected size, it likely was stunted, possibly even before you got it
because of the breeding tanks and retail tanks if the fish stayed in those
overcrowded conditions for too long. This is why it is so important to
start off with the right sized tank, instead of the mind-set of so many
where they say they will get a bigger tank as the fish grow since the fish
won't grow in an undersized tank nearly as fast or possibly not at all
compared to the same fish in a proper sized tank.

Now there are some fish that do get big and grow slowly so that even if they
are stunted in their early years, if rehomed to a proper sized tank, they
will continue to grow and nearly reach their full size.

Stunting causes untold number of health issues as the fish matures as it
suppresses the fishes immune system making it far more susceptible to health
issues than it would have if it was not stunted. It would be compared to a
severely malnourished pre-natal, infant or a premature baby and many of the
health problems they have growing up. Fish release various hormones into
their environment and as these hormone levels rise to a high level, it
causes the fish to become stunted and it also causes many other stress
related health issues.

My blog page on fish health has a section on stress and non-disease health
issues that affect fish, with links to many university peer-reviewed
articles. Aquarium Fish Magazine recently had an online article written by
one of the biologists at Cal State University explaining this even further.
I haven't added that link to my blog yet but I need to.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Jody,

Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish?? And not
something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in, in the middle I
think.
If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2 inches long can
they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow slowly, but....
Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???

Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24954 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: Snail
Yes, depending on the species and many of the "nuisance" snails can which is
why they are called nuisance snails. Some are asexual and others are
hermaphroditic.

Others, that are not supposed to be able to, will often remain impregnated
long after you acquire it so it will have babies one or more times, even on
it's own.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Robert
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 4:12 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Snail

Can a snail have babies on its own?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24955 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Oh, I had that happen about 3 computers and 8 years ago.

Everything I typed was gibberish, but then my wife might say everything I say is Gibberish :)



-Mike




I did see someone in a group once that had some kind of virus that changed
inks in the original post that was part of their reply.... it usually
hanged the links to some malicious sites.




-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 5:14 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.



Hmmmm.... this time, no letters are missing. That's weird. I'm going to
ave to go to the webpage and see what is showing up there. It's no big
eal but that sure is strange to see my OP that looks like I was drunk when
typed it when it shows back up in your reply. LOL
I did see someone in a group once that had some kind of virus that changed
inks in the original post that was part of their reply.... it usually
hanged the links to some malicious sites. I don't see any kind of pattern
nd I use plain text for Yahoo groups so it's not missing html or any
pecial fonts but it only affected the first letter of certain words and it
as random letters/words so I'm not sure what's up with that. Could just be
random Yahoo Groups thing.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
ehalf Of Deenerz@...
ent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:31 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

i Lenny,
That took a huge concern away when you said you were aware of PeTA and their
ackground :)
I was not aware my reply was stripping away letters. Thank you for pointing
t out. If this reply has done the same thing I will look into it and try
nd figure out what is going on.
Thanks Lenny,
-Mike
LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
icketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the
ar-left groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun
olitically. LOL
On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
etter of 15-20 words of my reply?
On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
he f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
n the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter is
epeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned this
o you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other replies
o see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
-----Original Message-----

o virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
:51 PM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
ahoo! Groups Links
Individual Email | Traditional
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24956 From: Lisa Rambo Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Lenny,

I realize that, about fish size. I understand about stunting.And that is why my friends think I'm crazy for having 'small' fish in a big tank. ( to them anyway).
I was just asking if it has been determined that we are actually talking about 'goldfish here'. That's all.


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
Lisa,

If anyone was to keep fish that were supposed to get big (some common
species that this happens to are goldfish, common plecos, oscars, etc. or
even the betta in a jar or vase) in a severely overstocked tank or
undersized tank, it would cause the fish to self-stunt themselves as part of
their survival mechanism. While they would survive while stunted, they
would most likely not live out a full and healthy life.

Actually, goldfish and many other "big" fish do not grow slowly. They just
seem to in many tanks because of the stunting issue. In a proper sized
tank, a goldfish will reach 75% of it's growth in the first 1-2 years and
90% after 4-5 years. If after a year or two, your fish hasn't reach full
expected size, it likely was stunted, possibly even before you got it
because of the breeding tanks and retail tanks if the fish stayed in those
overcrowded conditions for too long. This is why it is so important to
start off with the right sized tank, instead of the mind-set of so many
where they say they will get a bigger tank as the fish grow since the fish
won't grow in an undersized tank nearly as fast or possibly not at all
compared to the same fish in a proper sized tank.

Now there are some fish that do get big and grow slowly so that even if they
are stunted in their early years, if rehomed to a proper sized tank, they
will continue to grow and nearly reach their full size.

Stunting causes untold number of health issues as the fish matures as it
suppresses the fishes immune system making it far more susceptible to health
issues than it would have if it was not stunted. It would be compared to a
severely malnourished pre-natal, infant or a premature baby and many of the
health problems they have growing up. Fish release various hormones into
their environment and as these hormone levels rise to a high level, it
causes the fish to become stunted and it also causes many other stress
related health issues.

My blog page on fish health has a section on stress and non-disease health
issues that affect fish, with links to many university peer-reviewed
articles. Aquarium Fish Magazine recently had an online article written by
one of the biologists at Cal State University explaining this even further.
I haven't added that link to my blog yet but I need to.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Jody,

Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish?? And not
something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in, in the middle I
think.
If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2 inches long can
they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow slowly, but....
Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???

Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24957 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Dang Mike.

Look at my reply under your name. It took the "l" off of links and the "c"
off of changed. Were they there when you copy/pasted that passage? I see
in my original reply a little further down where the same two letters are
missing in that passage so maybe they were missing when you received it,
rather than when you sent it.

And if you read through all of the back and forth replies in the thread,
there are many instances of FLD (first letter disappearance). Were all of
my words intact when you received my reply? I'm trying to figure out where
the FLD takes place.

I'm also going to CC myself with this email to see if it happens when it
doesn't go through the group.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.


Oh, I had that happen about 3 computers and 8 years ago.

Everything I typed was gibberish, but then my wife might say everything I
say is Gibberish :)

-Mike

I did see someone in a group once that had some kind of virus that changed
inks in the original post that was part of their reply.... it usually hanged
the links to some malicious sites.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 5:14 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

Hmmmm.... this time, no letters are missing. That's weird. I'm going to ave
to go to the webpage and see what is showing up there. It's no big eal but
that sure is strange to see my OP that looks like I was drunk when typed it
when it shows back up in your reply. LOL I did see someone in a group once
that had some kind of virus that changed inks in the original post that was
part of their reply.... it usually hanged the links to some malicious sites.
I don't see any kind of pattern nd I use plain text for Yahoo groups so it's
not missing html or any pecial fonts but it only affected the first letter
of certain words and it as random letters/words so I'm not sure what's up
with that. Could just be random Yahoo Groups thing.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On ehalf Of Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
ent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:31 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

i Lenny,
That took a huge concern away when you said you were aware of PeTA and their
ackground :) I was not aware my reply was stripping away letters. Thank you
for pointing t out. If this reply has done the same thing I will look into
it and try nd figure out what is going on.
Thanks Lenny,
-Mike
LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
icketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the ar-left
groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun olitically. LOL
On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
etter of 15-20 words of my reply?
On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
he f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
n the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter is
epeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned this o
you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other replies o
see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
<http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24958 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
I'm pretty sure the OP verified they were goldfish. She said she got them
from someone else but I guess anything is possible. Hopefully Jodi has
looked at pictures of goldfish to verify that is what she has.

Whenever I reply to a group or forum, I reply as if there are 2,000 newbies
reading my reply so don't take offense if my answer appeared to imply that
you didn't know about stunting, etc. These posts and replies are archived,
probably forever, so someone may be reading this five or ten years from now.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Lenny,

I realize that, about fish size. I understand about stunting.And that is why
my friends think I'm crazy for having 'small' fish in a big tank. ( to them
anyway).
I was just asking if it has been determined that we are actually talking
about 'goldfish here'. That's all.


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote:
Lisa,

If anyone was to keep fish that were supposed to get big (some common
species that this happens to are goldfish, common plecos, oscars, etc. or
even the betta in a jar or vase) in a severely overstocked tank or
undersized tank, it would cause the fish to self-stunt themselves as part of
their survival mechanism. While they would survive while stunted, they would
most likely not live out a full and healthy life.

Actually, goldfish and many other "big" fish do not grow slowly. They just
seem to in many tanks because of the stunting issue. In a proper sized tank,
a goldfish will reach 75% of it's growth in the first 1-2 years and 90%
after 4-5 years. If after a year or two, your fish hasn't reach full
expected size, it likely was stunted, possibly even before you got it
because of the breeding tanks and retail tanks if the fish stayed in those
overcrowded conditions for too long. This is why it is so important to start
off with the right sized tank, instead of the mind-set of so many where they
say they will get a bigger tank as the fish grow since the fish won't grow
in an undersized tank nearly as fast or possibly not at all compared to the
same fish in a proper sized tank.

Now there are some fish that do get big and grow slowly so that even if they
are stunted in their early years, if rehomed to a proper sized tank, they
will continue to grow and nearly reach their full size.

Stunting causes untold number of health issues as the fish matures as it
suppresses the fishes immune system making it far more susceptible to health
issues than it would have if it was not stunted. It would be compared to a
severely malnourished pre-natal, infant or a premature baby and many of the
health problems they have growing up. Fish release various hormones into
their environment and as these hormone levels rise to a high level, it
causes the fish to become stunted and it also causes many other stress
related health issues.

My blog page on fish health has a section on stress and non-disease health
issues that affect fish, with links to many university peer-reviewed
articles. Aquarium Fish Magazine recently had an online article written by
one of the biologists at Cal State University explaining this even further.
I haven't added that link to my blog yet but I need to.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Jody,

Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish?? And not
something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in, in the middle I
think.
If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2 inches long can
they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow slowly, but....
Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???

Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24959 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Mike,

I think the FLD may only be happening with you since I was just looking over
all of my other Yahoo Group posts and replies and the FLD isn't happening to
any of them. I have no clue why your ISP or email client would be stripping
the first letters like that.

Which email client do you use? I know this is a fish group but I also help
in several computer related yahoo groups. And I know one of the other
far-more experienced members out here is also a member of one or more of the
computer groups also.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:49 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.


Oh, I had that happen about 3 computers and 8 years ago.

Everything I typed was gibberish, but then my wife might say everything I
say is Gibberish :)

-Mike

I did see someone in a group once that had some kind of virus that changed
inks in the original post that was part of their reply.... it usually hanged
the links to some malicious sites.

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 5:14 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

Hmmmm.... this time, no letters are missing. That's weird. I'm going to ave
to go to the webpage and see what is showing up there. It's no big eal but
that sure is strange to see my OP that looks like I was drunk when typed it
when it shows back up in your reply. LOL I did see someone in a group once
that had some kind of virus that changed inks in the original post that was
part of their reply.... it usually hanged the links to some malicious sites.
I don't see any kind of pattern nd I use plain text for Yahoo groups so it's
not missing html or any pecial fonts but it only affected the first letter
of certain words and it as random letters/words so I'm not sure what's up
with that. Could just be random Yahoo Groups thing.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On ehalf Of Deenerz@... <mailto:Deenerz%40aol.com>
ent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:31 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

i Lenny,
That took a huge concern away when you said you were aware of PeTA and their
ackground :) I was not aware my reply was stripping away letters. Thank you
for pointing t out. If this reply has done the same thing I will look into
it and try nd figure out what is going on.
Thanks Lenny,
-Mike
LOL. I know about PeTA but the threat to a pet store owner of having PeTA
icketing their store usually works. I doubt I'd ever call any of the ar-left
groups since I'm pretty much to the right of Attila The Hun olitically. LOL
On a side note, is it your email client that is stripping away the first
etter of 15-20 words of my reply?
On the second line below, the q is missing from quickly. On the third line,
he f is missing from females. On the fifth line, the a is missing from at.
n the seventh line, the y is missing from you. This missing first letter is
epeated throughout my reply in your email. Has anyone ever mentioned this o
you before??? I'll have to go back and look at some of your other replies o
see if this is happening to just you or what is causing it.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24960 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/11/2007
Subject: NEW!!!! [AquaticLife] New to the group
Yes, of course, someone like me, an ex-lurker-kind-of-newbie-becoming active-now..LOL

WaW, well I didn't really knew about the stunning part, so I learned a new part there, even though I have five aquariums at home, that doesn't mean that I really know about fishes..lol

Well, my name is Darlene, I am from South America/Dutch Caribbean...

I know that I will really learn bunch of new things in this group :-)

I always wonder so many things about my fishes, about my aquariums and about feeding them and their lifes..!!??!!


Well you all may know that I will probably have a lot of questions coming sooon..LOL

Take care and have a great week :-)



"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: I'm pretty sure the OP verified they were goldfish. She said she got them
from someone else but I guess anything is possible. Hopefully Jodi has
looked at pictures of goldfish to verify that is what she has.

Whenever I reply to a group or forum, I reply as if there are 2,000 newbies
reading my reply so don't take offense if my answer appeared to imply that
you didn't know about stunting, etc. These posts and replies are archived,
probably forever, so someone may be reading this five or ten years from now.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 9:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Lenny,

I realize that, about fish size. I understand about stunting.And that is why
my friends think I'm crazy for having 'small' fish in a big tank. ( to them
anyway).
I was just asking if it has been determined that we are actually talking
about 'goldfish here'. That's all.


"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote:
Lisa,

If anyone was to keep fish that were supposed to get big (some common
species that this happens to are goldfish, common plecos, oscars, etc. or
even the betta in a jar or vase) in a severely overstocked tank or
undersized tank, it would cause the fish to self-stunt themselves as part of
their survival mechanism. While they would survive while stunted, they would
most likely not live out a full and healthy life.

Actually, goldfish and many other "big" fish do not grow slowly. They just
seem to in many tanks because of the stunting issue. In a proper sized tank,
a goldfish will reach 75% of it's growth in the first 1-2 years and 90%
after 4-5 years. If after a year or two, your fish hasn't reach full
expected size, it likely was stunted, possibly even before you got it
because of the breeding tanks and retail tanks if the fish stayed in those
overcrowded conditions for too long. This is why it is so important to start
off with the right sized tank, instead of the mind-set of so many where they
say they will get a bigger tank as the fish grow since the fish won't grow
in an undersized tank nearly as fast or possibly not at all compared to the
same fish in a proper sized tank.

Now there are some fish that do get big and grow slowly so that even if they
are stunted in their early years, if rehomed to a proper sized tank, they
will continue to grow and nearly reach their full size.

Stunting causes untold number of health issues as the fish matures as it
suppresses the fishes immune system making it far more susceptible to health
issues than it would have if it was not stunted. It would be compared to a
severely malnourished pre-natal, infant or a premature baby and many of the
health problems they have growing up. Fish release various hormones into
their environment and as these hormone levels rise to a high level, it
causes the fish to become stunted and it also causes many other stress
related health issues.

My blog page on fish health has a section on stress and non-disease health
issues that affect fish, with links to many university peer-reviewed
articles. Aquarium Fish Magazine recently had an online article written by
one of the biologists at Cal State University explaining this even further.
I haven't added that link to my blog yet but I need to.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Lisa Rambo
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:37 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] New to the group

Jody,

Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish?? And not
something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in, in the middle I
think.
If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2 inches long can
they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow slowly, but....
Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???

Be who you are and say what you feel,
because those who mind don't matter
and those who matter don't mind.
-Dr. Seuss


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007
2:51 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24961 From: rahj_dg Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Pop eye in Angel fish
Hi
I am in need of advice. I have a four year old angel fish who is
exibiting the symptoms of popeye. She was recently attacked by my
catfish who ate some of her tail, they are now sepreated. She has
about 2/3 of a 29 gallon tank and the catfish the other third. A white
bumpy growth showed up on her nose then whent away after I changed some
of the water and added aquarium salt. That was two days ago now her
eyes are popping out. What can I do for this? I have read that this
may be related to water quality the only thing that has changed in my
tank is the catfishes acess to the bottom, othewise I still vacume it
out every two weeks and do my water changes. I have tested the water
and it seems fine. I am really attached to her and would be devistated
if she were to die on me, especilly if it was my fault.
Thank you in advance
Gina
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24962 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
What kind of catfish? I'm guessing a common pleco suckermouth catfish?

While your tank may have worked for a while, it's not large enough for two
large fish like you have. A single angelfish needs that size tank or larger
for itself since they are supposed to get really big if not stunted.

The likely reason one fish attacked the other is basic Darwinism, survival
of the fittest. The two fish realize they both cannot live their full lives
in the undersized tank so one was trying to eliminate the other.

Since you like the angelfish so much, you should rehome the pleco since it
probably needs a much larger tank anyhow. If a common pleco, they grow up
to 18"+ and need 75G minimum for themselves.
While the angelfish should have a bigger tank, a single angelfish, that is
probably stunted a little anyhow, will do OK in a 29G with weekly 25% PWC's,
filter maintenance and gravel vacuuming.

Your angelfish is probably having health issues as a result of the stress of
recently being attacked and being in a tank with another fish that would
like to see it gone. Stress issues is one of the leading causes of health
issues following water quality. This is also why it's best to treat a sick
fish in it's own hospital tank so it does not have the added stress of other
fish wanting to kill it. That is another common thing where healthy fish
will kill off a sick fish... survival of the fittest.

Pop-eye is caused by an internal bacterial issue, not necessarily related to
the eye but the pop-eye is simply the external indicator of the internal
condition causing swelling that pushes the eyes out. Treat the fish with an
antibacterial food or if you don't have access to that, then a
Melafix/Pimafix cocktail has worked for me in the past or one of the many
other antibacterial water treatments but feeding them antibacterial food
would be best.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of rahj_dg
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 2:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pop eye in Angel fish

Hi
I am in need of advice. I have a four year old angel fish who is exibiting
the symptoms of popeye. She was recently attacked by my catfish who ate some
of her tail, they are now sepreated. She has about 2/3 of a 29 gallon tank
and the catfish the other third. A white bumpy growth showed up on her nose
then whent away after I changed some of the water and added aquarium salt.
That was two days ago now her eyes are popping out. What can I do for this?
I have read that this may be related to water quality the only thing that
has changed in my tank is the catfishes acess to the bottom, othewise I
still vacume it out every two weeks and do my water changes. I have tested
the water and it seems fine. I am really attached to her and would be
devistated if she were to die on me, especilly if it was my fault.
Thank you in advance
Gina


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 - Release Date: 12/11/2007
5:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24963 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Hi Gina, It should be pointed out that the condition "Pop-Eye," can
also have a viral origin -- which is untreatable, just as the common
cold virus in humans cannot be cured. But since virus-causing Pop-
Eye cannot be cured, we can only trust this is being caused by a
bacterial infection in your fish, and so proceed with treatment for
it, hoping for the best.

The white bumpy growth you arte referring to, which appeared on the
fish's nose may well have been Columnaris (a bacterial infection),
especially if it was in close proximity to the lip. This may well
have added to the stress the Angelfish received and should have been
treated with medication in addition to your water change, which would
have reduced this stress; your addition of salt was prudent.

Pop-Eye of a bacterial origin is best treated with Kanamycin
(sulfate), one of the very few antibiotics which are absorbed
internally and, unlike many antibiotics, retains its effectiveness at
higher pH levels. This can be had by the procurance of SeaChem's
Kanaplex (a 40% Kanamycin/60% Potassium Sulfate blend) or better yet,
their Kanacyn medication. This treatment, along with the feeding of
medicated (anti-bacterial) food as has been pointed out by Lenny, has
an excellent chance of effecting a cure. His Melafix/Pimafix
cocktail also seems to have merit.

A further treatment, but one which I have not tried, consists of
adding Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate), 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons to
the aquarium water, repeating (w/o PWC) @ 1/2 dose the 3rd day, to
add to the existing quantity. Best of luck on your fish's recovery.
Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rahj_dg" <rahj_dg@...> wrote:
>
> Hi
> I am in need of advice. I have a four year old angel fish who is
> exibiting the symptoms of popeye. She was recently attacked by my
> catfish who ate some of her tail, they are now sepreated. She has
> about 2/3 of a 29 gallon tank and the catfish the other third. A
white
> bumpy growth showed up on her nose then whent away after I changed
some
> of the water and added aquarium salt. That was two days ago now
her
> eyes are popping out. What can I do for this? I have read that
this
> may be related to water quality the only thing that has changed in
my
> tank is the catfishes acess to the bottom, othewise I still vacume
it
> out every two weeks and do my water changes. I have tested the
water
> and it seems fine. I am really attached to her and would be
devistated
> if she were to die on me, especilly if it was my fault.
> Thank you in advance
> Gina
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24964 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Aquarium Picture on Main Page- Thank You!
As everyday, I sit in college and open the AquaticLife group to try to
advance my knowledge of my favorite hobby. I was absolutely delighted
to see the picture of my 220g. tank on the main page. I began this
hobby by seeing a lonely 5inch. blue psuedotropheus on death's door in
my mother's aquarium she hated taking care of and wanted to throw out.
She assumed the fish sick and dying, and deemed it not worthy of
feeding. She was waiting for him to die. I adopted him and the tank,
and about a year later the hobby has grown exorbitantly. I love it. I
thank everyone on this site for the amazing information and knowledge,
and thank the seasoned veterans of AquaticLife for putting up with my
ignorance to many topics of aquatics.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24965 From: rahj_dg Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Thank you Ray and Lenny for the advice I am on my way to the pet
store after this message. I have been trying to give away the
catfish for awhile now because he has grown so big so fast and I saw
it was going to be an issue. When I purchased him he was only an
inch and a half long now he is about four in only three months! He
is not a placo but what the petstore called a spotted lacyed catfish
but I think is properly an upside down catfish. Unfortunally he was
one of those not very well thought through purchases that people
often regret after. He is a beautiful fish though, mabey I just need
a bigger tank or mabey not, my parents are already worried about this
one falling through the floor of the house!(lol)
Thank you again,
Gina

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Gina, It should be pointed out that the condition "Pop-Eye,"
can
> also have a viral origin -- which is untreatable, just as the
common
> cold virus in humans cannot be cured. But since virus-causing Pop-
> Eye cannot be cured, we can only trust this is being caused by a
> bacterial infection in your fish, and so proceed with treatment for
> it, hoping for the best.
>
> The white bumpy growth you arte referring to, which appeared on the
> fish's nose may well have been Columnaris (a bacterial infection),
> especially if it was in close proximity to the lip. This may well
> have added to the stress the Angelfish received and should have
been
> treated with medication in addition to your water change, which
would
> have reduced this stress; your addition of salt was prudent.
>
> Pop-Eye of a bacterial origin is best treated with Kanamycin
> (sulfate), one of the very few antibiotics which are absorbed
> internally and, unlike many antibiotics, retains its effectiveness
at
> higher pH levels. This can be had by the procurance of SeaChem's
> Kanaplex (a 40% Kanamycin/60% Potassium Sulfate blend) or better
yet,
> their Kanacyn medication. This treatment, along with the feeding
of
> medicated (anti-bacterial) food as has been pointed out by Lenny,
has
> an excellent chance of effecting a cure. His Melafix/Pimafix
> cocktail also seems to have merit.
>
> A further treatment, but one which I have not tried, consists of
> adding Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate), 1 Tablespoon per 5 gallons
to
> the aquarium water, repeating (w/o PWC) @ 1/2 dose the 3rd day, to
> add to the existing quantity. Best of luck on your fish's
recovery.
> Ray
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rahj_dg" <rahj_dg@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi
> > I am in need of advice. I have a four year old angel fish who is
> > exibiting the symptoms of popeye. She was recently attacked by
my
> > catfish who ate some of her tail, they are now sepreated. She
has
> > about 2/3 of a 29 gallon tank and the catfish the other third. A
> white
> > bumpy growth showed up on her nose then whent away after I
changed
> some
> > of the water and added aquarium salt. That was two days ago now
> her
> > eyes are popping out. What can I do for this? I have read that
> this
> > may be related to water quality the only thing that has changed
in
> my
> > tank is the catfishes acess to the bottom, othewise I still
vacume
> it
> > out every two weeks and do my water changes. I have tested the
> water
> > and it seems fine. I am really attached to her and would be
> devistated
> > if she were to die on me, especilly if it was my fault.
> > Thank you in advance
> > Gina
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24966 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Aquarium Picture on Main Page- Thank You!
That is such a beautiful aquarium and a great mix of fish. Must be
amazing in person. Thank you for adding your pictures to the Photo
Albums.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "deberhardt85" <deberhardt85@...>
wrote:
>
> As everyday, I sit in college and open the AquaticLife group to try
to
> advance my knowledge of my favorite hobby. I was absolutely
delighted
> to see the picture of my 220g. tank on the main page. I began this
> hobby by seeing a lonely 5inch. blue psuedotropheus on death's door
in
> my mother's aquarium she hated taking care of and wanted to throw
out.
> She assumed the fish sick and dying, and deemed it not worthy of
> feeding. She was waiting for him to die. I adopted him and the
tank,
> and about a year later the hobby has grown exorbitantly. I love
it. I
> thank everyone on this site for the amazing information and
knowledge,
> and thank the seasoned veterans of AquaticLife for putting up with
my
> ignorance to many topics of aquatics.
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24967 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Pop eye in Angel fish
Gina, Am not familiar with any catfish called a "Spotted Laced
Catfish", but that's the problem with using common names for fish;
for one thing, they are not universally known. The Upside-Down
Catfish (Synodontis nigriventris) is sometimes called the "Black-
Spotted Upside Down Catfish" but that only gets to an average of 3
3/4", and I doubt your fish would have grown so fast as to reach its
full size in 3 months. There is also a "Laced (Synodontis) Catfish"
(Synodontis nigrita) which gets to around 7". You may still have a
Pleco at the rate it is growing, especially if it has a sucker-type
mouth -- Synodontis Cats do not!

While replying, I should clarify from my previous post, that while
there are a (limited) number of antibiotics which are absorpable
internally (all too few) when added to the aquarium water, Kanamycin
is one of the few READY ABSORBED bacticides, which are absorbed more
completely and faster. Ray


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rahj_dg" <rahj_dg@...> wrote:
>
> Thank you Ray and Lenny for the advice I am on my way to the pet
> store after this message. I have been trying to give away the
> catfish for awhile now because he has grown so big so fast and I
saw
> it was going to be an issue. When I purchased him he was only an
> inch and a half long now he is about four in only three months! He
> is not a placo but what the petstore called a spotted lacyed
catfish
> but I think is properly an upside down catfish. Unfortunally he was
> one of those not very well thought through purchases that people
> often regret after. He is a beautiful fish though, mabey I just
need
> a bigger tank or mabey not, my parents are already worried about
this
> one falling through the floor of the house!(lol)
> Thank you again,
> Gina
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Raymond Wetzel"
> <sevenspringss@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Gina, It should be pointed out that the condition "Pop-Eye,"
> can
> > also have a viral origin -- which is untreatable, just as the
> common
> > cold virus in humans cannot be cured. But since virus-causing
Pop-
> > Eye cannot be cured, we can only trust this is being caused by a
> > bacterial infection in your fish, and so proceed with treatment
for
> > it, hoping for the best.
> >
> > The white bumpy growth you are referring to, which appeared on
the
> > fish's nose may well have been Columnaris (a bacterial
infection),
> > especially if it was in close proximity to the lip. This may
well
> > have added to the stress the Angelfish received and should have
> been
> > treated with medication in addition to your water change, which
> would
> > have reduced this stress; your addition of salt was prudent.
> >
> > Pop-Eye of a bacterial origin is best treated with Kanamycin
> > (sulfate), one of the very few antibiotics which are absorbed
> > internally and, unlike many antibiotics, retains its
effectiveness
> at
> > higher pH levels. This can be had by the procurance of SeaChem's
> > Kanaplex (a 40% Kanamycin/60% Potassium Sulfate blend) or better
> yet,
> > their Kanacyn medication. This treatment, along with the feeding
> of
> > medicated (anti-bacterial) food as has been pointed out by Lenny,
> has
> > an excellent chance of effecting a cure. His Melafix/Pimafix
> > cocktail also seems to have merit.
> >
> > A further treatment, but one which I have not tried, consists of
> > adding Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate), 1 Tablespoon per 5
gallons
> to
> > the aquarium water, repeating (w/o PWC) @ 1/2 dose the 3rd day,
to
> > add to the existing quantity. Best of luck on your fish's
> recovery.
> > Ray
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "rahj_dg" <rahj_dg@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi
> > > I am in need of advice. I have a four year old angel fish who
is
> > > exibiting the symptoms of popeye. She was recently attacked by
> my
> > > catfish who ate some of her tail, they are now sepreated. She
> has
> > > about 2/3 of a 29 gallon tank and the catfish the other third.
A
> > white
> > > bumpy growth showed up on her nose then whent away after I
> changed
> > some
> > > of the water and added aquarium salt. That was two days ago
now
> > her
> > > eyes are popping out. What can I do for this? I have read that
> > this
> > > may be related to water quality the only thing that has changed
> in
> > my
> > > tank is the catfishes acess to the bottom, othewise I still
> vacume
> > it
> > > out every two weeks and do my water changes. I have tested the
> > water
> > > and it seems fine. I am really attached to her and would be
> > devistated
> > > if she were to die on me, especilly if it was my fault.
> > > Thank you in advance
> > > Gina
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24968 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: new to group w new NANO cube
If you're on a tight budget I would go with freshwater and it's easier if you're new to the hobby as well.
Kate

wil <catt_boy@...> wrote: My mom got me a 6 gal NANO cube for an early Christmas gift it has the
50/50 marine lamp in it now. Should I do a salt tank or get a 6500 lamp
for it and do a fresh water tank. I love the look of both, but I'm on a
tight budget and kind of new to all this stuff.

Thanks for your time
Wil






---------------------------------
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 24969 From: Kate Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Scarlet Badis and photos
Hey everyone,
The other day I did my first "impulse buy" in years and grabbed a
Scarlet Badis. I read up on them the second I got home and didn't find
a ton of super helpful info. I read that they like live food or frozen
live food, but they are so tiny! I've be adding a bit of frozen brine
shrimp, algae pellets, Betta pellets, and live fruit flies to the
tank. After a couple weeks he seemed to be eating(though I'm not sure
what) and growing so I went back and got two more. They all seem to be
doing well, but I was hoping someone on here had some experience with
them and could give me some hints as to stellar care. I know one of
the members had some pictures of Badis in an album. I just want to do
the best I can by these guys. Their tank mates are Amano, Cherry and
Orange Bee Shrimp.

Pictures below, and more under Kate's Tank, if anyone is interested.
If the links break, cut and paste.

Scarlet Badis
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/334c.jpg?grgZGYHBrbE_eIQ2

Amano Shrimp
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/fe65.jpg?grgZGYHB1Rpz2rXx
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24970 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
I know that kids love to wacth the fish. I taught preschool for years and always had fish. I too have done the too many fish in a tank. I would suggest getting a black Rubbermaid tub at least 30 gallons and put the fish in it until Spring when you can move it outside. You can even use the Rubbermaid as an above ground pond with some careful planning.
You can invest in a small pond pump for around $30 or a whole filter system for a little more. I think most of us would recommend moving them as quickly as you can. After you get a pump let us know and I'm sure someone has made a homemade filter with that type of pump. You are doing the right thing with watching your levels and cleaning the filters. They should be fine for a short time but a 10 gallon is not a long term solution.
Having Goldfish can be very rewarding and they can live for years. I lost a a common(28 cent fish) that was 7 years old and almost 10 inches. She would have been bigger if I had started her in a bigger tank. So even the little ones grow quickly.
You're in the right place to ask questions and this group is great with helping to find the answers if we don't know them. You can also find lots of information on my site. I even have links on taking care of fish with children. Don't flush them or give up yet. Your fish are depending on you. Good luck, Gail




Gail Hopkins
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24971 From: iluvpetfish Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Happy Holidays! Pic Of My First Tank...
Hello Everyone Thought I'd Upload A pic Of My First Tank. 30 Gallon
Breeder - Community Tank - Paid $10.00 At Garage Sale For Everything
Except, New Penguin BioWheel, Fish And Live Plants. It's Been Setup For
About 6 wks. Now. Stay Tuned For More Pics Just Got Another Complete
Setup.(55g. w/stand, Emperor 400, 250w Stealth, Hood, Light w/AquaGlo
Bulb :),Plus Food And Chemicals, Ooh and a 50 ft. Python, Are You
Ready?? FOR ONLY $100.00!!!!! I love being Thrifty. =)
Merry Christmas
Everyone
iluvpetfish
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24972 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
I am sorry for the late replies as of about 8:30 yesterday morning we
lost cable, tv and internet, and all cell phone usage due to our
major ice storm. We also hade intermitten electricty. Plus I may
still lose electricy due to my power lines being down. I am waiting
on the electrician to show up. But I am on page 4 of the list. And I
called them very early yesterday. I am not a real prority as that I
still do have partial power. I just got back on line. Let me get
through my e-mails and I will get a picture posted. But yes these are
gold fish.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Lisa Rambo <canineclara@...>
wrote:
>
> Jody,
>
> Have we established that we are indeed talking about goldfish??
And not something like a platy or mollie? sorry if so, I've come in,
in the middle I think.
> If you have had these fish for a year and they are only 1-2
inches long can they really be goldifsh? I mean I know fish grow
slowly, but....
> Any way you can put some pix up for everyone to see them???
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be who you are and say what you feel,
> because those who mind don't matter
> and those who matter don't mind.
> -Dr. Seuss
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24973 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
Would the tub need to be one of the see through kinds so that so light
can get through?

Here is another question how would I rig up something so that I can
keep my kitties out of it. I have one that loves fish water. I have had
to tape the heater hole closed.


Thanks:

Jodi
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24974 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Happy Holidays! Pic Of My First Tank...
Great deals!!! I wish I had the room and time for more tanks. I regularly
post ads for my business on Craigslist.org and I've seen two great deals on
there recently. A 90G for $100.00 and a 210G for $150.00. Remember to
always get the actual measurements and figure out gallonage yourself (L x W
x D / 231 = U.S. Gallons) since many people overestimate their tank size.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of iluvpetfish
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 2:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Happy Holidays! Pic Of My First Tank...

Hello Everyone Thought I'd Upload A pic Of My First Tank. 30 Gallon Breeder
- Community Tank - Paid $10.00 At Garage Sale For Everything Except, New
Penguin BioWheel, Fish And Live Plants. It's Been Setup For About 6 wks.
Now. Stay Tuned For More Pics Just Got Another Complete Setup.(55g. w/stand,
Emperor 400, 250w Stealth, Hood, Light w/AquaGlo Bulb :),Plus Food And
Chemicals, Ooh and a 50 ft. Python, Are You Ready?? FOR ONLY $100.00!!!!! I
love being Thrifty. =) Merry Christmas Everyone iluvpetfish


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 - Release Date: 12/11/2007
5:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24975 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
No it can be any color you like. A darker color would show up the fish
better when viewing them from the top.

To stop the kitties, put some kind of screen over the top. One thing that
is sturdy and would work is lighting egg crate material (like the kind used
on fluorescent lights in an elevator and many offices
http://www.professionalplastics.com/cgi-bin/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/85316
/sesent/00/Eggcrate-Louvers---Lighting). The squares are around 1" square
so the kitties shouldn't be able to get their little paws through it and
they wouldn't really like walking on it either.. at least most pets hate
walking on any kind of grate. You may be able to get a small piece for free
from a lighting store. It usually comes in white, black and silver color.

Someone else mentioned a 30G tub but I'd go for the largest you can fit in a
corner and a 50-60G tub should be in the 3'-4' by 2' range. And remember
that a shallow tub with more water surface area is better than a tall/deep
tub with less surface area since the more surface area, the better for gas
exchange and increasing the O2 levels in the water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 4:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group another question.

Would the tub need to be one of the see through kinds so that so light can
get through?

Here is another question how would I rig up something so that I can keep my
kitties out of it. I have one that loves fish water. I have had to tape the
heater hole closed.

Thanks:

Jodi


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 - Release Date: 12/11/2007
5:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24976 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet Badis and photos
They are probably eating the microorganisms in the tank. You may want to join the badisbadis list here on Yahoo, and learn from some pretty sharp people over there.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Scarlet Badis and photos

Hey everyone,
The other day I did my first "impulse buy" in years and grabbed a
Scarlet Badis. I read up on them the second I got home and didn't find
a ton of super helpful info. I read that they like live food or frozen
live food, but they are so tiny! I've be adding a bit of frozen brine
shrimp, algae pellets, Betta pellets, and live fruit flies to the
tank. After a couple weeks he seemed to be eating(though I'm not sure
what) and growing so I went back and got two more. They all seem to be
doing well, but I was hoping someone on here had some experience with
them and could give me some hints as to stellar care. I know one of
the members had some pictures of Badis in an album. I just want to do
the best I can by these guys. Their tank mates are Amano, Cherry and
Orange Bee Shrimp.

Pictures below, and more under Kate's Tank, if anyone is interested.
If the links break, cut and paste.

Scarlet Badis
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/334c.jpg?grgZGYHBrbE_eIQ2

Amano Shrimp
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/fe65.jpg?grgZGYHB1Rpz2rXx




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24977 From: bmp Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: free T shirt from Oceanic
Good evening everyone,

I thought I would share with you this link to a survey
conducted on behalf of Oceanic, a brand name of rather
high-end aquariums:
http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/

I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
about to buy a new Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
short) and received a free T-shirt, just as promised,
about 3 weeks later. Maybe someone else here would
like to have a free shirt?

Cheers,
Beverly

Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
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Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24978 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
Unfortunately this survey is now closed.

John in Nevada

bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
Good evening everyone,

I thought I would share with you this link to a survey
conducted on behalf of Oceanic, a brand name of rather
high-end aquariums:
http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/

I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
about to buy a new Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
short) and received a free T-shirt, just as promised,
about 3 weeks later. Maybe someone else here would
like to have a free shirt?

Cheers,
Beverly

Peace, please!

__________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24979 From: bmp Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic/so sorry but the offer has expired
I'm so sorry! I waited to post until I had actually
received my shirt, in case the company didn't fulfill
its promise. When I found the link in my notes I
regret that I was in a hurry to post it and didn't
follow it again to see what would happen.

With my sincere apologies,
Beverly

--- JOHN KD7POE <dumont53@...> wrote:

> Unfortunately this survey is now closed.
>
> John in Nevada
>
> bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
> Good evening everyone,
>
> I thought I would share with you this link to a
> survey
> conducted on behalf of Oceanic, a brand name of
> rather
> high-end aquariums:
> http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/
>
> I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
> about to buy a new Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
> short) and received a free T-shirt, just as
> promised,
> about 3 weeks later. Maybe someone else here would
> like to have a free shirt?
>
> Cheers,
> Beverly



Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24980 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/12/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
That survey is now closed. You should have told us when you first heard
about it instead of waiting to receive your shirt. lol

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

P.S. - Might I add something to your sig...

Peace, Please! ... through deterrence!!! ;-)

It goes along with that other saying:

An armed society is a polite society! :-D


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of bmp
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:05 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] free T shirt from Oceanic

Good evening everyone,

I thought I would share with you this link to a survey conducted on behalf
of Oceanic, a brand name of rather high-end aquariums:
http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/
<http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/>

I discovered it a while back when I thought I was about to buy a new
Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
short) and received a free T-shirt, just as promised, about 3 weeks later.
Maybe someone else here would like to have a free shirt?

Cheers,
Beverly

Peace, please!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 - Release Date: 12/11/2007
5:05 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24981 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
It's great, but it says that the surveys are closed now...


bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote: Good evening everyone,

I thought I would share with you this link to a survey
conducted on behalf of Oceanic, a brand name of rather
high-end aquariums:
http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/

I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
about to buy a new Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
short) and received a free T-shirt, just as promised,
about 3 weeks later. Maybe someone else here would
like to have a free shirt?

Cheers,
Beverly

Peace, please!

__________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping





"Life is beautiful"


---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24982 From: Richdeer3 Pond Supplies Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group another question.
The largest tub possible is best. I suggested the 30 gallon size because it's easier to move if needed than a 50 gallon. The black really does show up the fish the best. The only problem I'll ever had with low tubs is the dog like to drink from them which don't seem to hurt anything. Good Luck, Gail



Gail Hopkins
Http://www.richdeer3pondsupplies.com
richdeer3@...


---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24983 From: bmp Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
I'm really sorry about that ended survey. Yes, maybe I
should have spoken up when I first discovered it but
I'm a bit of a skeptic, especially when the survey
didn't ask for shirt size or any other preference. I
wanted to be sure it was genuine before I spread the
word too much. I did tell my favorite people at the
fish store but don't know if they followed through.
Next time, I will speak up sooner.

And about the signature, I'd like to say something
stronger but decided I should take the mild route on
that.

Sorry for the survey disappointment,
Beverly

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> That survey is now closed. You should have told us
> when you first heard
> about it instead of waiting to receive your shirt.
> lol
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> P.S. - Might I add something to your sig...
>
> Peace, Please! ... through deterrence!!! ;-)
>
> It goes along with that other saying:
>
> An armed society is a polite society! :-D
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of bmp
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:05 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] free T shirt from Oceanic
>
> Good evening everyone,
>
> I thought I would share with you this link to a
> survey conducted on behalf
> of Oceanic, a brand name of rather high-end
> aquariums:
> http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/
> <http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/>
>
> I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
> about to buy a new
> Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
> short) and received a free T-shirt, just as
> promised, about 3 weeks later.
> Maybe someone else here would like to have a free
> shirt?
>
> Cheers,
> Beverly
>
> Peace, please!
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 -
> Release Date: 12/11/2007
> 5:05 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24984 From: D.V. FairyDreams Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: free T shirt from Oceanic
LOL, that's okay....
You can always borrow me your free t-shirt though...LOL LOL

Darlene!!!



bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote: I'm really sorry about that ended survey. Yes, maybe I
should have spoken up when I first discovered it but
I'm a bit of a skeptic, especially when the survey
didn't ask for shirt size or any other preference. I
wanted to be sure it was genuine before I spread the
word too much. I did tell my favorite people at the
fish store but don't know if they followed through.
Next time, I will speak up sooner.

And about the signature, I'd like to say something
stronger but decided I should take the mild route on
that.

Sorry for the survey disappointment,
Beverly

--- "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...>
wrote:

> That survey is now closed. You should have told us
> when you first heard
> about it instead of waiting to receive your shirt.
> lol
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
> P.S. - Might I add something to your sig...
>
> Peace, Please! ... through deterrence!!! ;-)
>
> It goes along with that other saying:
>
> An armed society is a polite society! :-D
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of bmp
> Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 10:05 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] free T shirt from Oceanic
>
> Good evening everyone,
>
> I thought I would share with you this link to a
> survey conducted on behalf
> of Oceanic, a brand name of rather high-end
> aquariums:
> http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/
> <http://www.oceanicsystems.com/survey/>
>
> I discovered it a while back when I thought I was
> about to buy a new
> Oceanic. I took the survey (it is
> short) and received a free T-shirt, just as
> promised, about 3 weeks later.
> Maybe someone else here would like to have a free
> shirt?
>
> Cheers,
> Beverly
>
> Peace, please!
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1181 -
> Release Date: 12/11/2007
> 5:05 PM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Peace, please!

__________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs





"Life is beautiful"


---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24985 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/13/2007
Subject: Re: Scarlet Badis and photos
Thanks Steve!!

Steve Szabo <steve@...> wrote: They are probably eating the microorganisms in the tank. You may want to join the badisbadis list here on Yahoo, and learn from some pretty sharp people over there.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kate
Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 1:42 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Scarlet Badis and photos

Hey everyone,
The other day I did my first "impulse buy" in years and grabbed a
Scarlet Badis. I read up on them the second I got home and didn't find
a ton of super helpful info. I read that they like live food or frozen
live food, but they are so tiny! I've be adding a bit of frozen brine
shrimp, algae pellets, Betta pellets, and live fruit flies to the
tank. After a couple weeks he seemed to be eating(though I'm not sure
what) and growing so I went back and got two more. They all seem to be
doing well, but I was hoping someone on here had some experience with
them and could give me some hints as to stellar care. I know one of
the members had some pictures of Badis in an album. I just want to do
the best I can by these guys. Their tank mates are Amano, Cherry and
Orange Bee Shrimp.

Pictures below, and more under Kate's Tank, if anyone is interested.
If the links break, cut and paste.

Scarlet Badis
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/334c.jpg?grgZGYHBrbE_eIQ2

Amano Shrimp
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/groups/g_8495157/1d5a/__sr_/fe65.jpg?grgZGYHB1Rpz2rXx

Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`?¸¸.><((((?amp;gt;.·´¯`?¸¸.·´¯`??amp;gt;<((((?amp;gt; ?·´¯`?? , .·´¯`?.><((((?amp;gt;
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<?(((><.·´¯`?¸¸.·´¯`??amp;lt;?(((><?·´¯`?? , .·´¯`?.<?(((><·´¯`?¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24986 From: alien8mipussy Date: 12/14/2007
Subject: red sea salt
there was a discussion on here not to long ago about salt. I use red
sea salt for my saltwater aquarium? I have a few inverts, mostly fish.
anyone got any opinions about it, or another suggestions on salt?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24995 From: wil Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Nano packs
I spoke in another post about my new Nano cube. I decided to go with a
F/W tank. Is there a place I can get a Nano plant pack from for cheep.
Or I can offer some for some cash starts of things that will not get
to big in a 6g. easy to care for plants please.
Thanks for your time.

Wil
Group: AquaticLife Message: 24996 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: Nano packs
Wil,
Check out ebay and aquabid.com where there are sellers that sell plant
packages for small and large tanks. I would guess if you find a 10 gallon package
with plants you want that would be a good start.

-Mike


In a message dated 12/15/2007 2:17:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
catt_boy@... writes:

I spoke in another post about my new Nano cube. I decided to go with a
F/W tank. Is there a place I can get a Nano plant pack from for cheep.
Or I can offer some for some cash starts of things that will not get
to big in a 6g. easy to care for plants please.
Thanks for your time.

Wil






**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25001 From: Angela Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Floating snails?
Hello all! I got a couple snails to help with my algae as advised here. My
question is one of them seems to like to "let go" and just floats around the
tank for a while. Then I'll notice that it is back happily sucking on the
wall. I have not seen the other one do this. Is this normal snail behavior
or is something wrong? Thanks!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25002 From: Carmen H Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: Floating snails?
All my snails (pets and pests) do that, too, don't worry...
Carmen

On Dec 16, 2007 12:06 AM, Angela <asolomon1@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello all! I got a couple snails to help with my algae as advised here. My
> question is one of them seems to like to "let go" and just floats around
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25003 From: Angela Date: 12/15/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Floating snails?
Great to know.. Was afraid I was killing them too. LOL!

-------Original Message-------

From: Carmen H
Date: 12/16/2007 12:18:31 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [AquaticLife] Floating snails?

All my snails (pets and pests) do that, too, don't worry...
Carmen

On Dec 16, 2007 12:06 AM, Angela <asolomon1@...> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hello all! I got a couple snails to help with my algae as advised here. My
> question is one of them seems to like to "let go" and just floats around




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25005 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
If the address you are talking about is the one that belongs to Marsha
Wilburn, who has replied in this thread, I never thought twice about it
when I first saw it when she joined the group. I missed the double
entendre entirely, by taking it the way she meant it. If it is not, and
even if it is, but it is too late now, you should have written the
moderators of this group directly using the address
AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com stating your concerns, and not have
posted it directly to the list. Now, you have everyone looking for names
and addresses that may be taken in more than one way, which, I am
certain, was not your goal.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 8:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?

Why are people allowed to join the groups when they have sick and
perverted
names? If they chose to have them trashy names, they should go into
trashy
rooms and stay out of the family oriented rooms. People are NOT stupid
and
can read between the lines...



There is always someone in the group to ruin it for everyone....
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25006 From: Stacey Riga Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Nano guy/long post
Hey Nano guy...lol
No, I wasn't talking about your name. I was referring
that young people read the posts and we must all be
cautious of what we write. I did not know your age,
and was using it as a referrence, that you 'could'
have been young, and that we did not know so should
use caution in our writings. For all we knew you
'could' have been 12....NOT saying you sounded like
one...lol Just when someone first posts they could be.
Did that make sense????
I am disabled too. I have epi plus other neouro
problems. I stay at home since I can't drive. My tank
is my pride and joy and is very thearapeutic.
One of my IDS is ponigirl from when I use to be able
to ride horses. Another is Siricheeri..lol...I jumped
in and out of Sirius Radio stock and made a good
amount ;) The other, Sagirkennel is self explanatory.
It is my kennel name.
Names can be taken out of context.
But, no, you were just an example of how we don't know
ages...sorry for the misunderstanding, and using you
as an example ;)
Cheers from Cheri
ps, as for tanks, just buy used from ads. It is the
other stuff that is expensive so you may as well go
bigger. nano's are much harder to maintain than a
bigger tank as they are less forgiving in water
quality. Buy the tank used and start buying GOOD
equipment a little at a time, until you get what you
want. OH, also in the paper you can find complete
sets, where people are getting out of the hobby.
go to www.craigslist.com click on your state and
nearest city, search for aquariums. You will find what
you want, just don't jump the gun. Also with Nano's
there was a huge problem in past of them eventually
leaking. I don't know if that problems is solved yet.
Do research. Before jumping into nano, also join a
nano group. You will learn lot's from them and here.
stacey
--- AquaticLife™ <aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:

> Hi Wil,
>
> Thank you for your post.
>
> Your screen name was not the 1 in question.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wil"
> <catt_boy@...> wrote:
> >
> > I was the Nano cube guy. Some much needed Info
> about me to clear up
> > the air. I'm 27y m in Nashville TN, and I'm
> disabled. Also if my
> > name has offended anyone I do apologies, and also
> if I may miss
> > speak. My yahoo Id is catt_boy because a native
> American, medicine
> > woman gave me that name after I clamed up a thin
> tree to save a
> > kitten when I was just an older teen. My trip to
> Indpls was
> > postponed till I can get my SSA fixed so I can pay
> more then just
> > rent. So I don't have the tank just yet. I wonder
> if I'll ever get
> > it. LOL.
> >
> > Wil
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Stacey Riga
> <sagirkennel@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > When I read it, I almost said something. But
> thought,
> > > well what if names like that were ok??? I didn't
> know,
> > > and didn't want to start anything if it was.
> But, I
> > > completely agree. I am glad somebody said
> something.
> > > There are very young people on here, trying to
> learn
> > > about their tanks. Remember the fellow who was
> given a
> > > nano cube?? We don't know how old he/she is. We
> must
> > > all remember what we write can be read by
> > > impressionable minds.
> >
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25008 From: Ungers Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Little Tiny Worms?
I'm finding that in my sons 10gal tank, almost every time I do a PWC
and clean, I notice a few very tiny thin white(ish) little worms. I
usually find these on the inside of the tanks lid.

Does anyone have any idea what they could be, and how I can get rid
of them. I don't see anything moving on the gravel, but then again
these are quite small and I could easily miss them.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25009 From: sagirkennel Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: My Holiday Miracle/off topic
I hope you all don't mind this off topic post. But it
is short of a miracle.

Here is a story of courage, and most of all the
miracles of this Holiday Season.
The dogs concerned are my dogs

The most horrible experience I can think of happened
to me. I have always been the most responsible dog
owner I could possible be. Here is my nightmare which
ended up with the best Christmas present in my life.
"L" is Jill's shadow. She follows her diligently. Jill
is a seasoned titled hunter, who knows the training
fields and local woods like the back of her paw. They
had been going out into the backyard to sit under the
trees to stare at the active squirrels scurrying to
their stores to hunker down for the upcoming winter
storm. Although raining, they were more interested in
the squirrels than weather. Dec 11. at 2:00 pm I let
them out one time as usual, and went to the laundry
room. When I came back they were gone. I was not too
concerned at first knowing Jill went to the training
field, and "L" had followed. Jill will "here" very
responsably, which she did. She came back upon
command. The baby did not follow her. The rain was
pouring down and freezing in the trees and on ground.
It was a white, winter wonderland, that did not look
too wonderful at the time. A horrible winter storm was
in the brew. I walked the fields, calling at the top
of my lungs, and there was no sight of her. I began to
panic. I tramped through fields, and woods, calling
for some sign for hours. Rodger came home early and he
went on search on the 4 wheeler. Still there was no
site of a little 6 month old baby Pointer. The temp
was dropping fast and night settled. The storm became
worse. We drove through neighborhoods slowly, calling
and calling. There was still no sign of her. By now,
10 hours had past. I knew if we did not find her, she
would not make it. I lay on the sofa that night,
crying. I jumped to the door at the slightest sound,
hoping it was her. I knew she could not survive that
storm. I was beyond control. I could not eat, nor
sleep, feeling like I killed my puppy and feeling like
she had died a horrible death in the freezing sleet.
The next day was the same. The weather was horrendous.
We tramped through the woods, through cow pastures,
fell down embankments, drove some more in truck and on
4-wheeler. We still could not find her. The next day
we went on recovery, instead of rescue. It was the
most horrible feeling. I cried blaming myself. The
weather was as bad as my first winter here in 2000. It
had rained and froze so badly the trees were heavy
with ice and breaking away. Thousands of people were
without electricity. There was no way she could have
survived the elements for three bitter days and
nights. She is just a baby, raised her whole life
indoors. I knew in my heart she had died a horrible
death by elements. Each night I prayed, cried and
begged for help from above.
Last night, I was given a sedative as I had not slept
or eaten in days. This morning at 6:00 am, a woman
called and said she had my puppy. Rodger's first
question was, "Is she alive"? He also asked where she
was so we could come for her. She refused to tell him
and said she would bring her that afternoon. She would
not tell us her name except for Jeri. He went to tell
her where we lived, and she said, "You are the people
with the Shire horses right?" Rodger relied, "Yes, we
are. No other directions were given. What is another
amazing facet of this story, "L" was delivered home at
approximately 2:00 pm 4 days to the hour from her
disappearance. "L" hates cars and traveling. I asked
the woman how she got her. Her reply was, "I opened my
car door, and she hopped in."
"L" is now happily enjoying her bed by the fire, with
her brother.
Somebody was looking out for that puppy, and it is
short of a miracle she is alive. God bless the woman
who found her, warmed and fed her through the night.
"L" is home. After several nights in the bitter snow,
sleet, and freezing temperatures, that puppy had
survived unsurmounable odds.
So, you see myfriends, there really is a Santa Claus.
No matter your religion, someone above was looking out
for a defenseless baby.
Remember the Season, and above all give. Open your
hearts to those around you and you will in someway
create a miracle of your own.
Happy Holiday from S'Agir Pointers,
Stacey
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25010 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
This is my last post on the subject since the member took my last post as a
negative when I was only trying to explain to the member, and any other
members, how to change what name might show up in what group.

Ya'll know that with all the smut available on the internet, on TV, on the
radio and even in your local mall and discount stores, I think we are making
a rather big deal of a rather innocuous yahoo ID. I actually thought the ID
was kind of funny, but then I like telling politically incorrect jokes too!
I even sent the member an IM asking how the aliens were doing. LOL

If your child is able to decipher the slang of that yahoo ID, then your
child already knows more than you think and you need to explain that it was
just a nickname that someone chose and that the aliens really didn't do
anything wrong. ;-) You also need to have the "talk" with them since there
is so much worse out there than a yahoo ID. You might also explain the
difference between aliens (as in people from other planets) and illegal
aliens (as in people who break into America from other countries).

If they don't know what it says, then you have a little more time to have
the "talk" with them.

It's like a big guy nicknamed "Tiny" or a bald guy nicknamed "Cue Ball".
Sure, some folks would be offended by those types of names but we can't
really waste too much time complaining about nicknames when there are fish
that might be dying.

Merry Christmas everybody. Oops.. I forgot that might offend some people
too but nobody ever accused me of being politically correct. ;-) I guess
I'll include a Happy Holidays for everyone who got offended by "Christ".

One last note... if you did get offended by that name or my name or any
other name or word, create a filter/rule to throw our emails into your spam
folder so you'll never see anything from us again.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of AquaticLife™
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 12:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowed?

Hi Wil,

Thank you for your post.

Your screen name was not the 1 in question.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"wil" <catt_boy@...> wrote:
>
> I was the Nano cube guy. Some much needed Info about me to clear up
> the air. I'm 27y m in Nashville TN, and I'm disabled. Also if my name
> has offended anyone I do apologies, and also if I may miss speak. My
> yahoo Id is catt_boy because a native American, medicine woman gave me
> that name after I clamed up a thin tree to save a kitten when I was
> just an older teen. My trip to Indpls was postponed till I can get my
> SSA fixed so I can pay more then just rent. So I don't have the tank
> just yet. I wonder if I'll ever get it. LOL.
>
> Wil
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> , Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@>
> wrote:
> >
> > When I read it, I almost said something. But thought, well what if
> > names like that were ok??? I didn't know, and didn't want to start
> > anything if it was. But, I completely agree. I am glad somebody said
> > something.
> > There are very young people on here, trying to learn about their
> > tanks. Remember the fellow who was given a nano cube?? We don't know
> > how old he/she is. We must all remember what we write can be read by
> > impressionable minds.
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date: 12/15/2007
12:00 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25011 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
Sounds like some kind of flying bug larva if they are on the underside of
the tank lid. Could be houseflies, mosquitoes, drain flies or countless
others. Just clean them off.

In your second paragraph, you mention the gravel. Are the worms on the
underside of the lid or on the gravel?

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Ungers
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:49 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Little Tiny Worms?

I'm finding that in my sons 10gal tank, almost every time I do a PWC and
clean, I notice a few very tiny thin white(ish) little worms. I usually find
these on the inside of the tanks lid.

Does anyone have any idea what they could be, and how I can get rid of them.
I don't see anything moving on the gravel, but then again these are quite
small and I could easily miss them.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date: 12/15/2007
12:00 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25012 From: sagirkennel Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Aliens salt
I'm sorry, no one answered your question. I do not
know myself, but there is a saltwater group that has
many advanced SW aquarist who can help. Plus, nobody
would care what your name is. For myself, I apologize
for my shortsidedness considering my usual open minded
self.
Anyway, please check out this site
www.reefaquariumguide.com
It is a fun site.
There are Beginner rooms, coral rooms, FO rooms, the
overflow is for off topic, and the flame you can talk
about just about anything..except adult material, but
we talk politics etc, in that room. I have become
great friends with many members, and found one member
who even lives in my city. My husband Rodger and he
and his wife plan a get togther. We even have contest,
and win stuff!
I can ask he salt question for you, if you want me to.
But, being a member of a salt only forum has
advantages as well as this site has it's advantages.
RAG is just salt only, and you will learn lot's about
your tank, fish care, coral care etc.
Please join us there. My name there is Alane67
I do not know if you are still here so will send this
email as well.
Stacey

--- alien8mipussy <alien8mipussy@...> wrote:

> there was a discussion on here not to long ago about
> salt. I use red
> sea salt for my saltwater aquarium? I have a few
> inverts, mostly fish.
> anyone got any opinions about it, or another
> suggestions on salt?
>
>


S'Agir Kennel
Stylish Pointers
with a Loving Heart
Structure, and Soundness
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25013 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
I agree Steve,

I did not note the other potential meaning of the name.

The note I got on the moderator list arrived today, at least I do not recall
getting a previous email about the meaning of an email address.

Moderators usually are trying to block spammers and defuse fights without
censoring people. Being volunteers and doing these tasks as such we may not see
every perceived minutia of impropriety. We do talk about biology here and
generally use the proper terms and do not resort to vulgar terms for describing
aquatic mating but it does occasionally happen in some lists. I assume
children that are here with their parents permission and that will not result in a
problem should an email not strictly use the proper scientific terminology.
To clarify, I do understand it was an email address and not a conversation,
however an improper word will eventually be used here to describe a biological
term, be ready for it.

-Mike

In a message dated 12/16/2007 5:16:38 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
steve@... writes:

If the address you are talking about is the one that belongs to Marsha
Wilburn, who has replied in this thread, I never thought twice about it
when I first saw it when she joined the group. I missed the double
entendre entirely, by taking it the way she meant it. If it is not, and
even if it is, but it is too late now, you should have written the
moderators of this group directly using the address
_AquaticLife-AquaticLife-<WBRAquat_
(mailto:AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com) stating your concerns, and not have
posted it directly to the list. Now, you have everyone looking for names
and addresses that may be taken in more than one way, which, I am
certain, was not your goal.







**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25018 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/16/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed?
People,

I think we have seen enough of this here. Let us get off this topic and move back onto the fish.

\\Steve//
An AquaticLife Moderator


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Donna Camp
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 10:04 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?

Why do we have to get used to that kind of language? Why can't there be a
few places left that people don't lower their standards? Why can't there be
a few places that parents can let their kids who are just starting out in
this wonderful hobby read without having to censor the material? Do we have
to start putting suggested ages on these forums? Yes, I know what the real
world is like; it just seems that kids are being pushed to give up their
childhoods younger and younger...

Donna



----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Roberts" <woad@...>
To: <AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:52 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?


I think people need to get their heads out of the idyllic fog of the 1950's
(and maybe a few other places *grin*). Kids see far worse than that on
cartoon network.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Stacey Riga
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:46 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?



John, someone did mention 'alien'.
I think we should all let this go for now, and let the
list owner settle this with the member.
Time to swim on.

--- JOHN KD7POE <dumont53@... <mailto:dumont53%40sbcglobal.net> >
wrote:

> If u knew it was you we were talking about then we
> were not the ones who were perverted.
>
> John in Nevada
>
> marsha wilburn <alien8mipussy@... <mailto:alien8mipussy%40yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> I am sorry to hear that everyone thinks that my
> name is "Trashy". it truly is a spinoff if my other
> email. ufo8micats. it is not intended to be nasty,
> and if u mistake it to be perverted then, who is the
> one that is nasty? I am an avid animal and aquatic
> lover, and joined this group for some insight. I
> will for future reference, read posts and try not to
> reply, so no one can be offended. sorry again to the
> ones that took my addy out of context.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 10:01:29 AM
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?
>
> The solution for the person you are talking about is
> for them to create an
> alias Yahoo ID under their current one that can be
> read to be "trashy".
> Then go to their YahooGroups main page and go
> through each group and manage
> their account to change the name that shows up for
> the group. You would
> still only need one email address/yahoo account but
> it gives you more
> options.
>
> But in retrospect, there's not much you can do to
> stop aliens from doing
> what they want to do. They are a superior race
> afterall. ;-)
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
] On
> Behalf Of Laurie
> Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 7:40 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Why is it allowed?
>
> Why are people allowed to join the groups when they
> have sick and perverted
> names? If they chose to have them trashy names, they
> should go into trashy
> rooms and stay out of the family oriented rooms.
> People are NOT stupid and
> can read between the lines...
>
> There is always someone in the group to ruin it for
> everyone....
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1184 -
> Release Date: 12/14/2007
> 11:29 AM
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
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> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
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> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
> Be a better friend, newshound, and
> know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been
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>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
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> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
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> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
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>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links





Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25020 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: OFF Topic Posts wil be deleted
Any concerns regarding yahoo! terms of service ("tos") Violations can
be adressed directly to Yahoo as well as the group moderators OFF the
list ~ Please do not post concerns to the group as the posts are Off
Topic and subject to removal

List owner: AquaticLife-owner@yahoogroups.com

http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/forms_index.html
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/ownmod/email/email-
32.html

Yahoo! Groups > Yahoo! Groups Help > Original > Owners and Moderators
> Email
What should I do if I find content which is illegal or violates the
Yahoo! Terms of Service?
Content that is illegal or violates the Yahoo! Terms of Service will
be investigated. Please notify Yahoo! by completing an Abuse Form so
that that the necessary action can be taken.

It is important to provide the following information in your report so
that we may quickly process it:

Web address of the group (e.g.,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/groupname) where "groupname" is the
actual name of the group.
The location of the illegal/inappropriate content (exact web address
preferred).
The Yahoo! ID and/or email address of the person who posted the
content (if available).
For each of these, please just copy and paste the addresses into the
message you send to us.




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Group: AquaticLife Message: 25021 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Yahoo! Terms of Service
ACCEPTANCE OF TERMS

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Yahoo! Terms of Service
http://help.yahoo.com/l/us/yahoo/groups/original/ownmod/email/email-
32.html
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25022 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Why is it allowed?
On (hopefully) a final note, I find it fathomless to understand even
after the owner of this name (Marsha) explained it in a completely
innocent way, as a cat lover, why there are still people who view this
as trashy especially since the benefit of the doubt was never given in
the first place. Unless a word is already in context with other words
as to construe a meaning, it is the reader who chooses to interprete a
word in the manner that he or she sees fit. I truly feel sorry for
those who would automatically decide to view an otherwise completely
innocent word as something vulgar. Such a practice tends to question
the mindset of a reader who would take this inclination, when even the
most innocent of children would automatically see this as just another
word for a cat or kitten. Ray
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25024 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Floating snails?
Hi Angela,
Some snails will actually eat the film that develops on the surface. That's likely what yours are doing. I wouldn't worry.
Kate

Angela <asolomon1@...> wrote: Hello all! I got a couple snails to help with my algae as advised here. My
question is one of them seems to like to "let go" and just floats around the
tank for a while. Then I'll notice that it is back happily sucking on the
wall. I have not seen the other one do this. Is this normal snail behavior
or is something wrong? Thanks!
Angela

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 25025 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from you.
Thanks!
Kate

Stacey Riga <sagirkennel@...> wrote: Hey Nano guy...lol
No, I wasn't talking about your name. I was referring
that young people read the posts and we must all be
cautious of what we write. I did not know your age,
and was using it as a referrence, that you 'could'
have been young, and that we did not know so should
use caution in our writings. For all we knew you
'could' have been 12....NOT saying you sounded like
one...lol Just when someone first posts they could be.
Did that make sense????
I am disabled too. I have epi plus other neouro
problems. I stay at home since I can't drive. My tank
is my pride and joy and is very thearapeutic.
One of my IDS is ponigirl from when I use to be able
to ride horses. Another is Siricheeri..lol...I jumped
in and out of Sirius Radio stock and made a good
amount ;) The other, Sagirkennel is self explanatory.
It is my kennel name.
Names can be taken out of context.
But, no, you were just an example of how we don't know
ages...sorry for the misunderstanding, and using you
as an example ;)
Cheers from Cheri
ps, as for tanks, just buy used from ads. It is the
other stuff that is expensive so you may as well go
bigger. nano's are much harder to maintain than a
bigger tank as they are less forgiving in water
quality. Buy the tank used and start buying GOOD
equipment a little at a time, until you get what you
want. OH, also in the paper you can find complete
sets, where people are getting out of the hobby.
go to www.craigslist.com click on your state and
nearest city, search for aquariums. You will find what
you want, just don't jump the gun. Also with Nano's
there was a huge problem in past of them eventually
leaking. I don't know if that problems is solved yet.
Do research. Before jumping into nano, also join a
nano group. You will learn lot's from them and here.
stacey
--- AquaticLife™ <aquaticlifegroup@...> wrote:

> Hi Wil,
>
> Thank you for your post.
>
> Your screen name was not the 1 in question.
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wil"
> <catt_boy@...> wrote:
> >
> > I was the Nano cube guy. Some much needed Info
> about me to clear up
> > the air. I'm 27y m in Nashville TN, and I'm
> disabled. Also if my
> > name has offended anyone I do apologies, and also
> if I may miss
> > speak. My yahoo Id is catt_boy because a native
> American, medicine
> > woman gave me that name after I clamed up a thin
> tree to save a
> > kitten when I was just an older teen. My trip to
> Indpls was
> > postponed till I can get my SSA fixed so I can pay
> more then just
> > rent. So I don't have the tank just yet. I wonder
> if I'll ever get
> > it. LOL.
> >
> > Wil
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Stacey Riga
> <sagirkennel@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > When I read it, I almost said something. But
> thought,
> > > well what if names like that were ok??? I didn't
> know,
> > > and didn't want to start anything if it was.
> But, I
> > > completely agree. I am glad somebody said
> something.
> > > There are very young people on here, trying to
> learn
> > > about their tanks. Remember the fellow who was
> given a
> > > nano cube?? We don't know how old he/she is. We
> must
> > > all remember what we write can be read by
> > > impressionable minds.
> >
>
>
>






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25026 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: My Holiday Miracle/off topic
That's a great story! I'm so glad your little one was alright!
Kate

sagirkennel <sagirkennel@...> wrote: I hope you all don't mind this off topic post. But it
is short of a miracle.

Here is a story of courage, and most of all the
miracles of this Holiday Season.
The dogs concerned are my dogs

The most horrible experience I can think of happened
to me. I have always been the most responsible dog
owner I could possible be. Here is my nightmare which
ended up with the best Christmas present in my life.
"L" is Jill's shadow. She follows her diligently. Jill
is a seasoned titled hunter, who knows the training
fields and local woods like the back of her paw. They
had been going out into the backyard to sit under the
trees to stare at the active squirrels scurrying to
their stores to hunker down for the upcoming winter
storm. Although raining, they were more interested in
the squirrels than weather. Dec 11. at 2:00 pm I let
them out one time as usual, and went to the laundry
room. When I came back they were gone. I was not too
concerned at first knowing Jill went to the training
field, and "L" had followed. Jill will "here" very
responsably, which she did. She came back upon
command. The baby did not follow her. The rain was
pouring down and freezing in the trees and on ground.
It was a white, winter wonderland, that did not look
too wonderful at the time. A horrible winter storm was
in the brew. I walked the fields, calling at the top
of my lungs, and there was no sight of her. I began to
panic. I tramped through fields, and woods, calling
for some sign for hours. Rodger came home early and he
went on search on the 4 wheeler. Still there was no
site of a little 6 month old baby Pointer. The temp
was dropping fast and night settled. The storm became
worse. We drove through neighborhoods slowly, calling
and calling. There was still no sign of her. By now,
10 hours had past. I knew if we did not find her, she
would not make it. I lay on the sofa that night,
crying. I jumped to the door at the slightest sound,
hoping it was her. I knew she could not survive that
storm. I was beyond control. I could not eat, nor
sleep, feeling like I killed my puppy and feeling like
she had died a horrible death in the freezing sleet.
The next day was the same. The weather was horrendous.
We tramped through the woods, through cow pastures,
fell down embankments, drove some more in truck and on
4-wheeler. We still could not find her. The next day
we went on recovery, instead of rescue. It was the
most horrible feeling. I cried blaming myself. The
weather was as bad as my first winter here in 2000. It
had rained and froze so badly the trees were heavy
with ice and breaking away. Thousands of people were
without electricity. There was no way she could have
survived the elements for three bitter days and
nights. She is just a baby, raised her whole life
indoors. I knew in my heart she had died a horrible
death by elements. Each night I prayed, cried and
begged for help from above.
Last night, I was given a sedative as I had not slept
or eaten in days. This morning at 6:00 am, a woman
called and said she had my puppy. Rodger's first
question was, "Is she alive"? He also asked where she
was so we could come for her. She refused to tell him
and said she would bring her that afternoon. She would
not tell us her name except for Jeri. He went to tell
her where we lived, and she said, "You are the people
with the Shire horses right?" Rodger relied, "Yes, we
are. No other directions were given. What is another
amazing facet of this story, "L" was delivered home at
approximately 2:00 pm 4 days to the hour from her
disappearance. "L" hates cars and traveling. I asked
the woman how she got her. Her reply was, "I opened my
car door, and she hopped in."
"L" is now happily enjoying her bed by the fire, with
her brother.
Somebody was looking out for that puppy, and it is
short of a miracle she is alive. God bless the woman
who found her, warmed and fed her through the night.
"L" is home. After several nights in the bitter snow,
sleet, and freezing temperatures, that puppy had
survived unsurmounable odds.
So, you see myfriends, there really is a Santa Claus.
No matter your religion, someone above was looking out
for a defenseless baby.
Remember the Season, and above all give. Open your
hearts to those around you and you will in someway
create a miracle of your own.
Happy Holiday from S'Agir Pointers,
Stacey





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25027 From: kvnunger Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
These definitely are small thin worms. Somehow they're getting to the
underside of my lid, though I have no idea how. I'm not seeing them
in the water or in the gravel, but I'm sure I'd miss them there.
They're about the thickness of two or three strands of hair.

If anyone has any suggestions, they'd be most welcome.

Thanks,

Kevin

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like some kind of flying bug larva if they are on the
underside of
> the tank lid. Could be houseflies, mosquitoes, drain flies or countless
> others. Just clean them off.
>
> In your second paragraph, you mention the gravel. Are the worms on the
> underside of the lid or on the gravel?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Ungers
> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Little Tiny Worms?
>
> I'm finding that in my sons 10gal tank, almost every time I do a PWC and
> clean, I notice a few very tiny thin white(ish) little worms. I
usually find
> these on the inside of the tanks lid.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what they could be, and how I can get rid
of them.
> I don't see anything moving on the gravel, but then again these are
quite
> small and I could easily miss them.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1185 - Release Date:
12/15/2007
> 12:00 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25028 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Kate,

I have not used a Nano tank but I have used the eclipse series tanks. 3
gallon, 6, gallon, and 12 gallon. Oh yeah, I have the Eclipse hood for the 10
gallon tank setup on an 18 tall tank.
So far these have been great little tanks. I usually reuse the filters with
filter floss and have been able to utilize this method and not had to purchase
a single filter replacement.

The 3, 6, & 12 gallon tanks are one piece acrylic/plastic and cannot leak
unless they crack and so far I have not had that problem.

I usually snatch these up off of freecycle, craigslist, ebay, and garage
sales whenever I see them. I believe you just need to add gravel, and a heater,
maybe plants if you want them. Other than that they are fairly all in one.

-Mike

In a message dated 12/17/2007 12:32:19 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
k8hardy@... writes:

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much about
these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from you.
Thanks!
Kate






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Group: AquaticLife Message: 25029 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25030 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Little Tiny Worms?
I'm sure they're just some kind of bug larva (which are worm like). I get
all kinds of critters growing in my various tanks at different times of the
year. Here's a few pages I have in my favorites folder about aquarium
critters, etc. See if you can find your critters on one of these pages and
let us know what you have.

http://www.caudata.org/cc/articles/Tank_critters.shtml

http://members.aol.com/larval1/critters.htm

http://www.menunkatuck.org/pages/micro.htm

http://www.menunkatuck.org/pages/micro2.htm

http://microscopy-uk.org.uk/index.html?http://microscopy-uk.org.uk/pond/inde
x.html

http://www.shrimpnow.com/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=33

http://www.shrimpnow.com/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=34

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of kvnunger
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:58 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Little Tiny Worms?

These definitely are small thin worms. Somehow they're getting to the
underside of my lid, though I have no idea how. I'm not seeing them in the
water or in the gravel, but I'm sure I'd miss them there.
They're about the thickness of two or three strands of hair.

If anyone has any suggestions, they'd be most welcome.

Thanks,

Kevin

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like some kind of flying bug larva if they are on the
underside of
> the tank lid. Could be houseflies, mosquitoes, drain flies or
> countless others. Just clean them off.
>
> In your second paragraph, you mention the gravel. Are the worms on the
> underside of the lid or on the gravel?
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Ungers
> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:49 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Little Tiny Worms?
>
> I'm finding that in my sons 10gal tank, almost every time I do a PWC
> and clean, I notice a few very tiny thin white(ish) little worms. I
usually find
> these on the inside of the tanks lid.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what they could be, and how I can get rid
of them.
> I don't see anything moving on the gravel, but then again these are
quite
> small and I could easily miss them.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Kevin
>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25031 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Quick,



Let's trademark it  :)


-Mike




Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
nd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
he term "nano" refers to mini tanks.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 5:31 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post



Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
nd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
he term "nano" refers to mini tanks.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
ehalf Of Kate Conrow
ent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post
Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
eaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
aw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
or Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
bout these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
ou.
hanks!
ate
No virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
1:36 AM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>
LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the
eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE ->
.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.
e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
ahoo! Groups Links
Individual Email | Traditional
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25032 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post (Lenny)
I notice your posts are missing the first letter of each line again when someone replies to youGrey·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: Deenerz@...: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 22:22:08 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post




Quick,Let's trademark it :)-MikeIs Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing thisnd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believehe term "nano" refers to mini tanks.Lenny Vasbinder ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com-----Original Message-----From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comSent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 5:31 pmSubject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long postIs Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing thisnd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believehe term "nano" refers to mini tanks.Lenny Vasbinder ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com-----Original Message-----rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] Onehalf Of Kate Conrowent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PMo: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long postQuestion on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos haveeaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriendaw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him oneor Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know muchbout these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear fromou.hanks!ateNo virus found in this outgoing message.hecked by AVG Free Edition. ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/20071:36 AMPlease DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> .e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter. ahoo! Groups LinksIndividual Email | Traditionalhttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/__________________________________________________________More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25033 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post (Lenny)
Thanks Grey,



I am on a work computer now, I will send a test email later from my home computer to compare.

-Mike




I notice your posts are missing the first letter of each line again when someone replies to youGrey·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.



-----Original Message-----
From: ''Grey'' Greymane <huron62@...>
To: aquaticlife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 7:54 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post (Lenny)







I notice your posts are missing the first letter of each line again when someone replies to youGrey·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: Deenerz@...: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 22:22:08 -0500Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post




Quick,Let's trademark it :)-MikeIs Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing thisnd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believehe term "nano" refers to mini tanks.Lenny Vasbinder ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com-----Original Message-----From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comSent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 5:31 pmSubject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long postIs Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing thisnd it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believehe term "nano" refers to mini tanks.Lenny Vasbinder ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com-----Original Message-----rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] Onehalf Of Kate Conrowent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PMo: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long postQuestion on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos haveeaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriendaw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him oneor Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know muchbout these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear fromou.hanks!ateNo virus found in this outgoing message.hecked by AVG Free Edition. ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/20071:36 AMPlease DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.´Ż`·.¸¸.><((((ş>.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸><((((ş> ¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..><((((ş>LEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the eply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> .e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-ş((((><.·´Ż`·.¸¸.·´Ż`·.¸<ş((((><¸.·´Ż`·.¸. , .·´Ż`·..<ş((((><·´Ż`·.¸¸.e Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter. ahoo! Groups LinksIndividual Email | Traditionalhttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/__________________________________________________________More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25034 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Dang Mike!

Your reply, which included my reply, did the disappearing first letters
thing to my reply again. Have you ever tried to figure out why this is
happening? Does it happen when you reply to others in the group? I checked
all of my other Yahoo groups and every reply in this group and this does not
happen to anyone else who replies to one of my replies. I see you use
AOHell so maybe it's them doing it just to me since we don't like each other
but I also see where the disappearing first letter also affects the rest of
the thread so you might check with AOHell support to see if this is a known
issue. Just don't tell them I sent you. ;-)

As to trademarking "Nano", it wouldn't work since it's already a commonly
used word... just in case anyone was thinking about it. You could certainly
start using it as a brand name but someone else could also start using it
and you wouldn't be able to contest their usage of the name/word.... but
it's the thought that counts!!!

If you get any other genius ideas now that I have you thinking, I want 10%
royalties. LOL

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Deenerz@...
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 9:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post


Quick,

Let's trademark it :)

-Mike

Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this nd
it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe he
term "nano" refers to mini tanks.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...
<mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com> >
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 5:31 pm
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
ostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this nd
it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe he
term "nano" refers to mini tanks.
Lenny Vasbinder
ish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
rom: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On ehalf Of Kate Conrow
ent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
o: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
ubject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post Question on the Nano tanks and
similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have eaking problems and that the
Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend aw one a while ago and fell
in love. I was thinking about getting him one or Christmas. I've never gone
the all-in-one route and don't know much bout these. Anyone have any
thoughts on them? I would love to hear from ou.
hanks!
ate
No virus found in this outgoing message.
hecked by AVG Free Edition.
ersion: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
1:36 AM

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25035 From: hummelbee3 Date: 12/17/2007
Subject: Re: free betta fish and kuhli loach!!!!!!
are you still interested? Sorry, I'm not getting ANY of your emails.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25036 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
There is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker right now but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25037 From: ASK DONT TELL Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Hi I too had too much algea grow in my tank but I have a 55g tank and
had 10 goldfish in it. I moved 5 goldfish to a other tank and cleaned
everything inside the tank and now with only 5 goldfish there is no
more algea and the water is very clear. Maybe you just need less fish
in the 10g tank or get a bigger tank. I read a lot of blogs on this and most of them say you should have about 4g per goldfish since they are so dirty or a filter that is rated at 4x the tank size. I hope this helps but i'm also new to all this. Good luck, let me know what happens.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25038 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Here's an example. They say Nano cube at the bottom. Like I said though, I heard these had problems leaking. One of my LFSs stopped purchasing them for that reason and has been ordering the Oceanic Biocubes instead.

Kate Conrow <k8hardy@...> wrote: There is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker right now but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25039 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Duh, it would help if I posted the link. Sorry.

http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_nanocube_pix.html

Kate Conrow <k8hardy@...> wrote: Here's an example. They say Nano cube at the bottom. Like I said though, I heard these had problems leaking. One of my LFSs stopped purchasing them for that reason and has been ordering the Oceanic Biocubes instead.

Kate Conrow <k8hardy@...> wrote: There is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker right now but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing this
and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still believe
the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007
11:36 AM


Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links

---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25040 From: Kelley Lee Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Question?? about sick Oscar
Hi, I am new to the group. Thought I would throw an important question to everyone.
I have a very close family member (been with us 7+ years) who is suffering from Hole in the head/Lateral line disease. She is in a 55 gal tank. We have upped he water temp to 80 degrees. We use melafix every couple days. We have been using Jungle Parasite clear which has metronidazole, praziquantel,diflubenzuron, and acriflavine. in it any doing a partial water change everyday. (we alternate the melafix and paracite clear everyday. A friend of mine said to buy the medicated food-which I did and even tried to mix with her regular food. She mainlly eats hakiri cichlidgold in the red bag. She does eat worms on occasion. Miss Fish is a very picky girl. so far things haven't gotten any worse (we have been at it over a month. (we have no carbon in her filter because on the meds) We do add salt once every other week or so to help with the wounds etc. And have added stress zyme twice. After the everyday water changes and every other day meds.
I have found no other helpful information and would like to know what others may know. She hasn't had live feeders in about a year because they kept making her sick. I have went to multiple sites on the internet and have spoke to a 2 friends that own aquarium stores.


"A True Friend walks in when the rest of the world walks out"Kelley

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25042 From: Nimish Mathur Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Saltwater Sump question
I am in the process of setting up my first saltwater tank and I have 2
choices for a sump:



29 gallon glass tank (80x30x45 cm) but with restrictions of access due to
large bracing

40 gallon plastic tub (95x35x49cm) fully open from the top so no
restrictions.



I want to have a skimmer in there which in the glass tank will take up a
large space but in the plastic tub will leave me enough space for partitions
with a DSB and any other stuff I need to add.



What are your views about using a plastic tub for a sump? Are there anything
I need to lookout for?



Thanks,

Nim







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25044 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
The maker is JBJ and can be found here: http://www.jbjnanocube.com/

They are glass tanks, with rounded front corners for an acrylic look,
according to their site. This may be a problem with the sealing of the
tank, hence the leakage. I've not seen them in any stores I have been in
recently, so I can't inspect a "live" one.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 1:43 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

There is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker
right now but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Is Nano a brand
name? I always thought the term referred to mini-tanks,
mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was typing
this
and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I still
believe
the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com



-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos
have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My
boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him
one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25045 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
As has been at least alluded to, if not outright mentioned, in this
thread, goldfish need about 30 gallons per adult fish. The 4 gallons you
mention might be OK for the wee little ones you sometimes find in the
shops, but the more water you can give them the better off everyone will
be.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of ASK DONT TELL
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 1:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group

Hi I too had too much algea grow in my tank but I have a 55g tank and
had 10 goldfish in it. I moved 5 goldfish to a other tank and cleaned
everything inside the tank and now with only 5 goldfish there is no
more algea and the water is very clear. Maybe you just need less fish
in the 10g tank or get a bigger tank. I read a lot of blogs on this and
most of them say you should have about 4g per goldfish since they are so
dirty or a filter that is rated at 4x the tank size. I hope this helps
but i'm also new to all this. Good luck, let me know what happens.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25046 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Question?? about sick Oscar
Thre have been indications that hole-in-the-head is caused by poor water
quality. You have not indicated any water parameters other than
temperature. Can you post your readings for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate,
and pH?

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kelley Lee
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 2:14 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Question?? about sick Oscar

Hi, I am new to the group. Thought I would throw an important question
to everyone.
I have a very close family member (been with us 7+ years) who is
suffering from Hole in the head/Lateral line disease. She is in a 55
gal tank. We have upped he water temp to 80 degrees. We use melafix
every couple days. We have been using Jungle Parasite clear which has
metronidazole, praziquantel,diflubenzuron, and acriflavine. in it any
doing a partial water change everyday. (we alternate the melafix and
paracite clear everyday. A friend of mine said to buy the medicated
food-which I did and even tried to mix with her regular food. She
mainlly eats hakiri cichlidgold in the red bag. She does eat worms on
occasion. Miss Fish is a very picky girl. so far things haven't
gotten any worse (we have been at it over a month. (we have no carbon
in her filter because on the meds) We do add salt once every other
week or so to help with the wounds etc. And have added stress zyme
twice. After the everyday water changes and every other day meds.
I have found no other helpful information and would like to know what
others may know. She hasn't had live feeders in about a year because
they kept making her sick. I have went to multiple sites on the
internet and have spoke to a 2 friends that own aquarium stores.


"A True Friend walks in when the rest of the world walks out"Kelley
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25047 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: New to the group
Welcome to the group, but as a long time goldfish keeper, I have to inform
you, like I have thousands of others over the years, that you have gotten a
lot of bad information. I know you are trying to help but I don't want you
to perpetuate the bad info that unfortunately abounds on the net and even
worse from local pet store employees. Many books also have bad information.
I have my own goldfish care sheet on my blog which has links to many
reputable sites that are slowly but surely updating their care sheets to
reflect better information but many of them resist updating their care
sheets because they would then have to admit they were giving bad
information for so many years.

Goldfish should grow to 6"-8" for round-bodied fancy goldfish and 12"-18"
for long-bodied goldfish but they still basically have the same body mass
and based on body mass alone, a single adult sized goldfish is equal to over
500 1" goldfish which is why they need so much water volume. Would you put
500 1" goldfish in a 4G or 10G tank? Certainly 10G per goldfish is better
than 1G or 4G but it's simply not enough in the long run.

A single adult goldfish needs 30G-50G per goldfish as a bare minimum with
the smaller water volume for round-bodied goldfish since they do not swim as
fast or as much as their long-bodied cousins. A 55G tank is good for 1-2
goldfish but even then, they should outgrow a 55G tank if they do not suffer
from stunting issues. And with these bare minimum volumes, weekly PWC's,
gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance are still needed to keep the water
healthy for the goldfish. It's best to start off with at least the bare
minimum volume of water for each goldfish to avoid stunting problems which
would keep the goldfish from ever reaching their potential size.

Goldfish should live to well over 10 years for round-bodied and over 20
years for long-bodied, with the world record being over 40 years. Stunting
severely impedes their health and immune system so most goldfish never reach
their potential age. The reason stunting is so severe with most goldfish is
because of the bad info that is out there from so many sources.

Many people do start off with smaller tanks with plans to upgrade as needed
but it's a catch-22 situation since the fish will not grow as fast as they
should in a smaller tank due to the stunting issues, unless the person is
very diligent with almost daily 25% PWC's and plenty of filtration. Most
experienced goldfish keepers aim for 10X filtration due to the amount of
waste that they produce. Even with 10X filtration, folks should still do
weekly PWC's, gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance.

Go to my blog to see all of the info that I have compiled on keeping
goldfish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of ASK DONT TELL
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 12:16 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New to the group

Hi I too had too much algea grow in my tank but I have a 55g tank and had 10
goldfish in it. I moved 5 goldfish to a other tank and cleaned everything
inside the tank and now with only 5 goldfish there is no more algea and the
water is very clear. Maybe you just need less fish in the 10g tank or get a
bigger tank. I read a lot of blogs on this and most of them say you should
have about 4g per goldfish since they are so dirty or a filter that is rated
at 4x the tank size. I hope this helps but i'm also new to all this. Good
luck, let me know what happens.


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25048 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
Apparently, JBJ is the maker or at least the distributor of the "NanoCube"
http://www.jbjnanocube.com/ so that is their brand name for their version of
a nano tank but the word "nano" simply means very small, mini, micro, etc.,
depending on the industry that is using the word.

Here's Google's definition...
http://www.answers.com/nano-&r=67?nr=1&lsc=true

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 12:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Duh, it would help if I posted the link. Sorry.

http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_nanocube_pix.html
<http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_nanocube_pix.html>

Kate Conrow <k8hardy@... <mailto:k8hardy%40yahoo.com> > wrote: Here's
an example. They say Nano cube at the bottom. Like I said though, I heard
these had problems leaking. One of my LFSs stopped purchasing them for that
reason and has been ordering the Oceanic Biocubes instead.

Kate Conrow <k8hardy@... <mailto:k8hardy%40yahoo.com> > wrote: There
is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker right now
but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@... <mailto:GoldLenny%40gmail.com>
> wrote: Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to
mini-tanks, mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was
typing this and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I
still believe the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25049 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
Like Rodney Dangerfield said in the movie, "Back To School".... "Well, call
me when you have no class!" ;-)

I love that movie and line. :-D

I don't even know what this reply was in reference to since the original
post was not included and for some reason, I didn't get the original
post.... but I still had to do my Rodney Dangerfield email impersonation.
:-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Laurie
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 4:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!

Some of us with class are and were offended... End of discussion!!!!



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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25050 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/18/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name
Alien8 could also be "alienate" since there was no "s" behind alien in the
original yahoo ID.

Of course, that would be appropriate also since it certainly did alienate
some people out here.

Alienate (definition) - 1 : to make unfriendly, hostile, or indifferent
especially where attachment formerly existed;

What ever happened to teaching our kids "Sticks and stones will break my
bones but words will never hurt me!"?

As I said before, anyone who lets their kids on the internet, watch TV,
listen to the radio, go to school, go to a mall, etc., should have a very
open communication with their children so they can explain these words and
situations when they occur because they WILL occur... especially on the
internet. Otherwise, it would be best to keep the kids locked up in the
basement with no telephone, TV, radio or internet and home-school them until
they are 18 (or 35)... that's what I did with my daughter. :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name

I know, I know -- no more on this subject, but I just had to add one thing
because apparently some of you saw only the one word (for cat), and didn't
read (sound out) the entire name. While I think it's disingenuous to claim
that the one word is just another word for cat, it is the previous three
words that made it offensive to me. (Aliens 8 mi = aliens ate my...)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> On (hopefully) a final note, I find it fathomless to understand even
> after the owner of this name (Marsha) explained it in a completely
> innocent way, as a cat lover, why there are still people who view this
> as trashy especially since the benefit of the doubt was never given in
> the first place. Unless a word is already in context with other words
> as to construe a meaning, it is the reader who chooses to interprete a
> word in the manner that he or she sees fit. I truly feel sorry for
> those who would automatically decide to view an otherwise completely
> innocent word as something vulgar. Such a practice tends to question
> the mindset of a reader who would take this inclination, when even the
> most innocent of children would automatically see this as just another
> word for a cat or kitten. Ray
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25051 From: Dave Roberts Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
I have a crazy idea, how about a fish question.

Recently my town brought some new wells online and I have had a breakout of
a really nasty brown algae (at a guess) on decorations and plants (look two
types of aquatic life) in two of my tanks.

I am hoping to get some advice on cleaning it up. It looks really nasty and
seems to be gunking up my filters.

Any advice would be appreciated.

-Dave Roberts
Massachusetts, USA


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25052 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!
What is typically referred to as "brown algae" isn't actually algae but
rather diatoms. I'm not sure this is what you are getting since they
normally thrive on excess silicates in the water of a newly established FW
tank but I guess some new wells could have this problem as well. Check with
your local water utility to see if they test for silicates.

As to cleaning it, most of the time diatoms come off easily and can be
vacuumed up with your gravel vacuum. If yours is something other than
diatoms, then you could be talking about an actual algae that might be a
little tougher thing to deal with.

Here's several pages on dealing with algae that have photos of the different
algae's that are common to aquariums so check them out and let us know what
you have.

http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/algae/diatoms.shtml

http://www.plantgeek.net/article_viewer.php?id=9

http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Algae/

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

http://www.freewebs.com/thefishgirl/algea.htm

http://www.sydneycichlid.com/algae.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Dave Roberts
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 5:15 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!

I have a crazy idea, how about a fish question.

Recently my town brought some new wells online and I have had a breakout of
a really nasty brown algae (at a guess) on decorations and plants (look two
types of aquatic life) in two of my tanks.

I am hoping to get some advice on cleaning it up. It looks really nasty and
seems to be gunking up my filters.

Any advice would be appreciated.

-Dave Roberts
Massachusetts, USA


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007
9:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25053 From: Joeseph Schmoe Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Answer to fish question..Re: [AquaticLife] Sorry if I offended a
If it is indeed Algae, cut down on light and/or food.Personally once I determined it is algae,
I'd leave light off for 3 or 4 days.Another possibility is that, what appears to be algae,
could be much worse,specifically: cyanobacteria. If so, treat your tank with erythromycin or kanamycin.
Oh also, for algae you might consider a "cleaning crew". Otocinclus, Farlowella or clown loaches.
Hope this helps you. Have a Happy Holiday. :) ILuvPetFish........

----- Original Message ----
From: Dave Roberts <penguinsltd@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:15:18 AM
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Sorry if I offended anyone, BUT!!!!

I have a crazy idea, how about a fish question.

Recently my town brought some new wells online and I have had a breakout of
a really nasty brown algae (at a guess) on decorations and plants (look two
types of aquatic life) in two of my tanks.

I am hoping to get some advice on cleaning it up. It looks really nasty and
seems to be gunking up my filters.

Any advice would be appreciated.

-Dave Roberts
Massachusetts, USA

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25054 From: Rhonda Wilson Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Answer to fish question..Re: [AquaticLife]
If it's diatoms snails will also usually help, as Lenny said diatoms
usually show up soon after you set a new aquarium up but are much less
common in an established tank. Diatoms look like a light coat of
brownish stuff. If it's cyanobacteria it will also smell musty.
Cyanobacteria is usually kind of slimy to the feel also and is usually
blue-green or dark green in color hence the common name blue-green
algae. And yes erthromycin is a good way to get rid of cyanobacteria but
you should be aware it will also kill your good bacteria in your
aquarium, which can lead to even more problems and more types of algae
moving in. There is also a strange algae type thing I've seen that looks
mostly like a bunch of yucky brown mulm that may be what you've gotten
too. Generally with that one I've found a few good water changes will
clear it up.

As Joe Schmoe said Otocinclus can help with some types of algae, and
might help with a diatoms. Haven't kept the Farlowellas myself but as to
the clown loaches, I've never seen any of the botia eat algae and never
heard anyone mention them as algae eaters before. I actually am very
fond of the different species of botia, though I wish they weren't quite
so good at eating snails, which is something they are often recommended
for and do very well at. Some of them like the skunks can also be very
noisy which can be interesting and a surprise if you aren't ready for
it. They make a clicking sound to each other.

Can you describe the algae a bit more and perhaps give us more details
on the tank. Like do you use CO2, fertilizers, what sort of water change
schedule you have, is the tank old or new? Knowing more about your
aquarium and what you have in it and do with it can help in trying to
find what has caused your algae problem and what course of action you
might want to try to get rid of it.

Rhonda



Joeseph Schmoe wrote:
>
> If it is indeed Algae, cut down on light and/or food.Personally once I
> determined it is algae,
> I'd leave light off for 3 or 4 days.Another possibility is that, what
> appears to be algae,
> could be much worse,specifically: cyanobacteria. If so, treat your
> tank with erythromycin or kanamycin.
> Oh also, for algae you might consider a "cleaning crew". Otocinclus,
> Farlowella or clown loaches.
> Hope this helps you. Have a Happy Holiday. :) ILuvPetFish........
>
>
>
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25055 From: Kristen Kinzer Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name
I can't believe this discussion is still going on....


----- Original Message ----
From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny <GoldLenny@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 11:38:40 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name

Alien8 could also be "alienate" since there was no "s" behind alien in the
original yahoo ID.

Of course, that would be appropriate also since it certainly did alienate
some people out here.

Alienate (definition) - 1 : to make unfriendly, hostile, or indifferent
especially where attachment formerly existed;

What ever happened to teaching our kids "Sticks and stones will break my
bones but words will never hurt me!"?

As I said before, anyone who lets their kids on the internet, watch TV,
listen to the radio, go to school, go to a mall, etc., should have a very
open communication with their children so they can explain these words and
situations when they occur because they WILL occur... especially on the
internet. Otherwise, it would be best to keep the kids locked up in the
basement with no telephone, TV, radio or internet and home-school them until
they are 18 (or 35)... that's what I did with my daughter. :-D

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Shirley Reichard
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 9:10 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowed? Point of clarification re name

I know, I know -- no more on this subject, but I just had to add one thing
because apparently some of you saw only the one word (for cat), and didn't
read (sound out) the entire name. While I think it's disingenuous to claim
that the one word is just another word for cat, it is the previous three
words that made it offensive to me. (Aliens 8 mi = aliens ate my...)

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Raymond Wetzel"
<sevenspringss@...> wrote:
>
> On (hopefully) a final note, I find it fathomless to understand even
> after the owner of this name (Marsha) explained it in a completely
> innocent way, as a cat lover, why there are still people who view this
> as trashy especially since the benefit of the doubt was never given in
> the first place. Unless a word is already in context with other words
> as to construe a meaning, it is the reader who chooses to interprete a
> word in the manner that he or she sees fit. I truly feel sorry for
> those who would automatically decide to view an otherwise completely
> innocent word as something vulgar. Such a practice tends to question
> the mindset of a reader who would take this inclination, when even the
> most innocent of children would automatically see this as just another
> word for a cat or kitten. Ray
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links




____________________________________________________________________________________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25057 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: The Nano guy
My mom has had her 6g Nano for about five years and not a problem. The
one she is giving me is the new type. There sealed in a poly-mat. It
also is coated in an aquatic clear sealant on the in side and out.
Another improvement is they got rid of the inferior 13-29-42-29
aluminum based heat shield and replaced it with a nickel and copper
based one that will not become toxic when exposed to red salt.

Wil
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25058 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Nano guy/long post
I know, I have several nano tanks in my home. I'm a big fan of the smaller environment. It means I can have the 9 tanks I now have going, instead of just a couple. I like being able to experiment with so many different environments. "I might have tried out one of the "Nano Cubes", or Oceanic Biocubes, already if I didn't like being able to control all the elements of the the tank. I think they're cute.
Kate

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote: Apparently, JBJ is the maker or at least the distributor of the "NanoCube"
http://www.jbjnanocube.com/ so that is their brand name for their version of
a nano tank but the word "nano" simply means very small, mini, micro, etc.,
depending on the industry that is using the word.

Here's Google's definition...
http://www.answers.com/nano-&r=67?nr=1&lsc=true

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 12:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Duh, it would help if I posted the link. Sorry.

http://www.jbjlighting.com/sys_nanocube_pix.html


Kate Conrow > wrote: Here's
an example. They say Nano cube at the bottom. Like I said though, I heard
these had problems leaking. One of my LFSs stopped purchasing them for that
reason and has been ordering the Oceanic Biocubes instead.

Kate Conrow > wrote: There
is a specific tank called the Nano Cube. I'm blanking on the maker right now
but yes they are a specific product.

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> wrote: Is Nano a brand name? I always thought the term referred to
mini-tanks, mostly mini-reef tanks. Well, I did a quick Google while I was
typing this and it appears there is not an actual brand called "Nano" so I
still believe the term "nano" refers to mini tanks.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ]
On Behalf Of Kate Conrow
Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 2:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Nano guy/long post

Question on the Nano tanks and similar tanks. I've heard that the Nanos have
leaking problems and that the Oceanic Biocubes are much better. My boyfriend
saw one a while ago and fell in love. I was thinking about getting him one
for Christmas. I've never gone the all-in-one route and don't know much
about these. Anyone have any thoughts on them? I would love to hear from
you.
Thanks!
Kate

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1188 - Release Date: 12/17/2007
2:13 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25059 From: Farscape Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: Question?? about sick Oscar
Me thinks the tank size is the issue...

Do an IMMEDIATE water change of at least 50%, and repeat it in about 3 days.

You might also treat with MelaFix after the change. Salt MAY help, too.

After that, change the water at least 40% weekly, at least for a while,
until the Oscar has healed - after that, you might get away with 50%
every 2 weeks, but go no longer than that.

I've read a lot on HITH in Oscars, and it seems it's EXTREMELY RARE that
they actually contract the parasite that's the usual culprit in Angels &
Discus.

-Instead, water quality is the factor, with the end cycle nitrogen
products to blame (mostly) for the Oscar's condition - seems they are
sensitive to it.

I've had several O's go thru this and learned by doing a lot of reading
and trial and error...

The unseen conditions here also result in a shorter lifespan for the
fish, it seems.


Kelley Lee wrote, On 12/18/2007 11:13 AM:
> 7+ years) who is suffering from Hole in the head/Lateral line
> disease. She is in a 55 gal tank. We have upped he water temp to 80
> degrees. We use melafix every couple days. We have been using
> Jungle Parasite clear which has metronidazole,
> praziquantel,diflubenzuron, and acriflavine. in it any doing a
> partial water change everyday. (we alternate the melafix and
> paracite clear everyday. A friend of mine said to buy the medicated
> food-which I did and even tried to mix with her regular food. She
> mainlly eats hakiri cichlidgold in the red bag. She does eat worms
> on occasion. Miss Fish is a very picky girl. so far things haven't
> gotten any worse (we have been at it over a month. (we have no
> carbon in her filter because on the meds) We do add salt once every
> other week or so to help with the wounds etc. And have added stress
> zyme twice. After the everyday water changes and every other day
> meds. I have found no other helpful information and would like to
> know what others may know. She hasn't had live feeders in about a
> year because they kept making her sick. I have went to multiple
> sites on the internet and have spoke to a 2 friends that own aquarium
> stores.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25060 From: bmp Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: I delete all posts with this: Re: [AquaticLife] Re: Why is it allowe
Enough said.

Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25061 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Off topic
It's the off season at work. I would like a pin-pal or two with some
of the same interests to kill some time with. I have a full profile.
Including interests.

Wil
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25063 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: fish
I need an idea on a small unique looking fish. Something that will
blend in with the drift wood and plants. The odder the better. Must be
easy to take care of, and not to hard to find online.

Wil
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25064 From: William Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
How about a twig catfish? Bushymouth plecos also come to mind that
blend in with drift wood and are easy to find. If you are looking for
a predatory fish then the leaf fish really looks like a leaf. What
size tank are you planning of butting this unusual looking fish in?

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "wil" <catt_boy@...> wrote:
>
> I need an idea on a small unique looking fish. Something that will
> blend in with the drift wood and plants. The odder the better. Must
be
> easy to take care of, and not to hard to find online.
>
> Wil
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25065 From: wil Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
I'm looking to save up for a 55g or bigger. I would like to have two
or three bottom fish and a school of some type of Nano fish 1 inch or
less.

Wil AKA in the group "The Nano guy"


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...>
wrote:
>
> How about a twig catfish? Bushymouth plecos also come to mind that
> blend in with drift wood and are easy to find. If you are looking
for
> a predatory fish then the leaf fish really looks like a leaf. What
> size tank are you planning of butting this unusual looking fish in?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25066 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/19/2007
Subject: Re: fish
What size tank do you have? What other fish do you have?

One thing you could do is look at the profiles of your other fish to see
what species are compatible with them and then look at the profiles of those
fish to see what you like and if they would fit in your tank/water
parameters.

A very good source of profiles that also list Species Compatibility is
http://fish.mongabay.com and use the search feature to find the profiles on
your fish. Each profile will have tank/water parameter needs for your fish
and also have a species compatibility section.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of wil
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:29 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] fish

I need an idea on a small unique looking fish. Something that will blend in
with the drift wood and plants. The odder the better. Must be easy to take
care of, and not to hard to find online.

Wil



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007
9:40 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25067 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Wil,

Look into Heterandria Formosa. Most often described as least killifish, they
are actually the smallest live bearer in the U.S.A. I keep a small group in
a 2 1/2 gallon tank. I have a slim piece of driftwood and some java moss and a
few bushy nose pleco fry. The plecos are temporary as they will outgrow this
tank. I am using this tank to grow them out.

If you cannot find the Heterandria Formosa locally there are a few people on
aquabid.com that sell them.

_http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4DKUS_enUS2
27US228&q=heterandria+formosa&um=1&sa=N&tab=wi_
(http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4DKUS_enUS227US228&q=heterandria+formosa&
um=1&sa=N&tab=wi)

Lenny may have more information, he seems to be an encyclopedia of fish :)

-Mike

In a message dated 12/19/2007 7:13:28 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
catt_boy@... writes:

I'm looking to save up for a 55g or bigger. I would like to have two
or three bottom fish and a school of some type of Nano fish 1 inch or
less.

Wil AKA in the group "The Nano guy"






**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25068 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
How about a leaf fish? Or maybe a Butterfly Goby? I adore my Leaf fish. He has so much personality. Butterfly Goby's are supposed to be more shy but very cool looking. Both are predatory though so it would depend on the tank mates. What size tank is it and what other fish would share it?
Kate

wil <catt_boy@...> wrote: I need an idea on a small unique looking fish. Something that will
blend in with the drift wood and plants. The odder the better. Must be
easy to take care of, and not to hard to find online.

Wil






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25069 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: fish
Oops should have read farther into my emails. My suggestions would make a tasty meal out of any nano fish. The bushy nosed pleco William suggested might be fun.
Kate

wil <catt_boy@...> wrote: I'm looking to save up for a 55g or bigger. I would like to have two
or three bottom fish and a school of some type of Nano fish 1 inch or
less.

Wil AKA in the group "The Nano guy"

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "William" <dreammaker2623@...>
wrote:
>
> How about a twig catfish? Bushymouth plecos also come to mind that
> blend in with drift wood and are easy to find. If you are looking
for
> a predatory fish then the leaf fish really looks like a leaf. What
> size tank are you planning of butting this unusual looking fish in?
>






---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25070 From: jett07002 Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: I agree!!!!!
Good Grief! Enough is enough!
I guess Puss n' Boots cat food better change its name if it's to do
business with these people.

Couldn't put my finger on it before, but now I know I was right when I
thought twice about supporting Hillary! ;o] (That was a joke, but I
am sure someone will have something to say about this, too.) It all
comes down to Ricky Nelson's song words, ".........can't please
everyone, so you have to please yourself."



-
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25071 From: Colby Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: blackwater aquarium
Hello,

I just joined a few days ago, and thought I'd tell ya'll a
little about myself. I dont have any aquariums yet, b/c right now, I
dont have the space, but whenever I move out, I would like to get a few species of rare fish. I mainly joined to do research, since some of the species I'd like to get can be hard to care for.

Has anyone here ever had a blackwater aquarium?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25072 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Pet Store Frustrations
Lately I've encountered so many people who do not know a thing about
fish and stores who jack up prices ridiculously. My latest
frustrations are:
a. stores who sell the Fluval FX5 filters, but never carry filter foam
I always have to order it online and I live near Aquarium Adventure,
Petco, Petsmart, Pet Supplies Plus, and RMS Aquaculture
b. no one carries the adhesive that goes between the aquarium backround
and the tank itself to alleviate unsightly air bubbles
c. I purchased an Urn/Pot decorative arrangement from Aquarium
Adventure for $70. Petsolutions.com carries the same exact thing for
$13!!!!! I feel like a moron for buying it from them, live and learn
right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25073 From: ''Grey'' Greymane Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Have you tried just wetting the back of the tank with tank water and using a squeegee to remove the bubbles. Works well for me.Grey·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º><º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.


To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.comFrom: deberhardt85@...: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:55:43 +0000Subject: [AquaticLife] Pet Store Frustrations




Lately I've encountered so many people who do not know a thing about fish and stores who jack up prices ridiculously. My latest frustrations are:a. stores who sell the Fluval FX5 filters, but never carry filter foam I always have to order it online and I live near Aquarium Adventure, Petco, Petsmart, Pet Supplies Plus, and RMS Aquacultureb. no one carries the adhesive that goes between the aquarium backround and the tank itself to alleviate unsightly air bubblesc. I purchased an Urn/Pot decorative arrangement from Aquarium Adventure for $70. Petsolutions.com carries the same exact thing for $13!!!!! I feel like a moron for buying it from them, live and learn right.







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25074 From: William Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
If you have never had an aquarium then I would say to get your gills
wet first with some common and easy to care for fish so that you
will have a better chance of succeeding. Incidentally what kinds of
rare fish did you have in mind for keeping and what size of aquarium
are you talking about? I suggest that you get the largest size of
tank that you can for two reasons, one is the temp will be more
stable and two waste and other toxic materials will affect fish
easier in a small tank than a larger tank. I am not suggesting that
you go out and buy a 300 gallon tank (you can if you want to though)
but rather go with something at least 20 gallons. You will be happy
with a larger tank because you will have a larger group of fish that
you can put in (and most people seem to find that one fish that they
cannot live without and do not have the room for).


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Colby" <cbhardison@...> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I just joined a few days ago, and thought I'd tell ya'll a
> little about myself. I dont have any aquariums yet, b/c right now,
I
> dont have the space, but whenever I move out, I would like to get a
few species of rare fish. I mainly joined to do research, since some
of the species I'd like to get can be hard to care for.
>
> Has anyone here ever had a blackwater aquarium?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25075 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Since you also have a nearby PetsMart, DEFINITELY check their online prices
first and print the page before going to the store. The store will match
their online pricing. I usually save 20-50% off the shelf price this way.
My LFS has high prices and limited retail space so I buy a lot of my
hardware and supplies at the very close PetsMart... but using their online
pricing.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of deberhardt85
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 3:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pet Store Frustrations

Lately I've encountered so many people who do not know a thing about fish
and stores who jack up prices ridiculously. My latest frustrations are:
a. stores who sell the Fluval FX5 filters, but never carry filter foam I
always have to order it online and I live near Aquarium Adventure, Petco,
Petsmart, Pet Supplies Plus, and RMS Aquaculture b. no one carries the
adhesive that goes between the aquarium backround and the tank itself to
alleviate unsightly air bubbles c. I purchased an Urn/Pot decorative
arrangement from Aquarium Adventure for $70. Petsolutions.com carries the
same exact thing for $13!!!!! I feel like a moron for buying it from them,
live and learn right.


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007
7:37 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25076 From: camdog@sbcglobal.net Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Question about Albino catfish and babies
I have had some Albino catfish for several years now and ever once in
awhile they will have babies. The only time I see them have them is
when I either clean everything in the tank. Rocks, ornaments, water,
filter, etc. And I know when I do this is kills all the bacteria but
never had a fish die. One time I cleaned everything when I moved and
they had them. Recently I had a really bad fungus in there and I
cleaned everything and they had them. And then the other day I forgot
to plug the heater back after I cleaned the tank and it got down to
about 73 degrees and then I came home today and I had eggs again. Does
anyone know when they mate or what makes them mate and have eggs?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25077 From: Colby Date: 12/20/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
There are at least 2, maybe 3 species I would like to keep, and a couple of the specimens I want would need their own tank, I know. They are, a Chinese lionfish, and if possible, an electric eel. I'm also considering a stingray.


"To acheive true peace, we must first look at ourselves, for the true path to enlightenment starts from within."

Colby Hardison






















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25078 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
You are not telling anybody anything new. Unless a shop is owned by an
individual who is into fish, you will not find help that is
knowledgeable, except in a few rare cases. Today, with the proliferation
of the big box stores and the decline of the mom & pop shops, the
problem is probably worse.

I simply do not understand how your scenario a can exist. The stocking
of the supplies for the filter, any filter, is a source of recurring
revenue to those who sell the filter, and it is a no brainer to carry
them. Have you talked to the stores that carry the filter but not the
consumables for the filter to see if they will get it for you?

For your b, one answer has already been given. I never knew that there
was a special adhesive for this task. Depending on the material the
background is, I've used that method, or tape, and it has always worked
for me when using said background. Makes it easy to remove when you are
done with the background.

As for c, the stores will charge what the traffic will bear. Back in the
day, pre-internet, we did not have that option. However, if you shopped
wisely and compared prices, you could always get the best deal possible.
Impulse buying will always cost you. See something you like? Shop around
for it. Check the catalogs, and now, the Internet, and then buy. Of
course, you always face the dilemma of whether you should support your
local retailer and keep them in business, or buy out of your area, and
keep someone else in business.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of deberhardt85
Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 4:56 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Pet Store Frustrations

Lately I've encountered so many people who do not know a thing about
fish and stores who jack up prices ridiculously. My latest
frustrations are:
a. stores who sell the Fluval FX5 filters, but never carry filter foam
I always have to order it online and I live near Aquarium Adventure,
Petco, Petsmart, Pet Supplies Plus, and RMS Aquaculture
b. no one carries the adhesive that goes between the aquarium backround
and the tank itself to alleviate unsightly air bubbles
c. I purchased an Urn/Pot decorative arrangement from Aquarium
Adventure for $70. Petsolutions.com carries the same exact thing for
$13!!!!! I feel like a moron for buying it from them, live and learn
right.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25079 From: aaron102272 Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: FisHighway
Anybody have a copy of or remember seeing the March 1997 issue of
Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine

Any body seen one of these in person or have one?

excerpts from several search results ~
--------------------
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200206/msg00530.html

"Article in March 1997 issue of Freshwater and Marine
Aquarium Magazine, page 204. Some saltwater guy.

He got acrylic tubes and glued the ends together to make a clear pipe
that goes along the walls of his apartment. Both ends go into the top
of his 125-gallon reef. Near the middle he attached a tube that goes
to his sump and he has a pump on this, so there's water flow through
this section. No bottle brushes. ;-) He claims to not have any algae
problems whatsoever for some mysterious reason..."

-------------------------------

http://www.divester.com/category/aquariums/

Habitrail for fish

Posted Jan 10th 2007 12:11PM by Bill Reals
Filed under: Beginners, Experts, Aquariums
This is so cool and totally puts our office fish tank to shame. It's
a habitrail for fish. It looks like two fish tanks, connected by an
acrylic tube. Of course, this started a debate in my office on how it
works but alas we couldn't figure out how this works.

Anyone have any ideas?
------------------------------

http://memepool.com/Subject/Pets/

Wednesday, Nov 17, 2004 Fishighway, the Habitrail for fish.
-------------------------

http://www.teamdroid.com/archives/2007/01/10/fishighway-aquarium-of-
the-future/

Fishighway - Aquarium of the Future?
Posted on 01.10.07 by John @ 5:25 pm

I saw this on Boing Boing today and I knew I had seen this a few
years ago. With a bit of work I was able to find the original site.
The fishhighway domain is gone but thanks to Wayback Machine it still
lives on. (Make sure you check out the images on Archive and not the
other site that is just serving up the photos and raking in the ad
bucks). Apparently it's based on an old patent from 1877, you can see
an image of it here. It's a clever idea but even if you can clean the
tubes with a magnitized cleaner it would still be a pain. But as
aquariums go it does look awesome.

fishighway.com (via Archive.org)
------------------------------------


http://www.aboutus.org/FisHighway.com

Description

Fish Highway is a mind boggling aquarium installation for your home
or business. Watch as fish swim out of the tank and across the
ceiling in a water filled highway that seems to defy gravity.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25080 From: Debra Melton Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Question about Albino catfish and babies
Camdog:

My Corydora catfish get frisky and lay their eggs after large cooler water
changes. When the eggs on the side of the tank look like they have been
partially eaten I can usually spot the fry in another two to three weeks.
Earlier than that they hide extremely well in the substrate, the plants, and
the decorations.

From what I have read you can entice them to breed by doing frequent cooler
water changes. By cooler I mean use treated (dechlorinated) cold water from
the tap.

Right now I have about 20 juvenile Peppered Cory fry to trade or give away.
Soon I will have Panda juveniles as well.

Any takers?

I live in Ocean Springs, MS

Deb





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25081 From: Zeke Barber Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: FisHighway
I have seen one, but not in person. From what i understand, you use suction, adn water pressure to fill the tube's up, and keep them full of water.

------------

Anybody have a copy of or remember seeing the March 1997 issue of
Freshwater and Marine Aquarium Magazine

Any body seen one of these in person or have one?

------------------------------------

http://www.aboutus.org/FisHighway.com

Description

Fish Highway is a mind boggling aquarium installation for your home
or business. Watch as fish swim out of the tank and across the
ceiling in a water filled highway that seems to defy gravity.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25082 From: Noah Burge Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Malawi cichlids
I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25083 From: ipartyforfun Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Noah,

There are MANY ypes of Malawi cichlids, and some do get to be a bigger
size. They are agressive also, so I would not recommend a 10 gallon
for cichlids, any type of cichlids really.

I think ou got one of those "fish helpers" that everyone is so
frustrated with!

Jenn
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25084 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Hi Noah

Apparently your LFS knows very little about fish keeping.

There are 100's of different Malawi Species. They are very territorial and most are very aggressive. They come originally from Lake Malawi in Africa. Some species need Rock Work to live in These species are called Mbuna.

And yes 4 or 5 would be way too many for a 10 gallon aquarium. They also require some special needs such as a Higher than normal PH, higher temperature and Hard Water.

If you need any special information on these fish let me know and I can give you more. I specialize in Africans

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...> wrote:
I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25085 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Jenn

You might be interested in my ost to Noah.

I specialize in Africans

John in Nevada

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...> wrote:
Noah,

There are MANY ypes of Malawi cichlids, and some do get to be a bigger
size. They are agressive also, so I would not recommend a 10 gallon
for cichlids, any type of cichlids really.

I think ou got one of those "fish helpers" that everyone is so
frustrated with!

Jenn






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25086 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
What about Rams? You couldn't keep very many of course but they're really fun little cichlids. You could also look into the Badis I keep. Not technically cichlids but were classified as such once because they are so similar. Badis(or Dario) are really tiny and very pretty.
Kate

ipartyforfun <Gittieup@...> wrote:
Noah,

There are MANY ypes of Malawi cichlids, and some do get to be a bigger
size. They are agressive also, so I would not recommend a 10 gallon
for cichlids, any type of cichlids really.

I think ou got one of those "fish helpers" that everyone is so
frustrated with!

Jenn






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25087 From: hank voss Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Colby" <cbhardison@...> wrote:
>
Colby:
> Ive maintained several Blackwater tanks over the years and ill
tell you they are mainly for the "purist" aquarist.Have you ever seen a
blackwater tank? Most people who try one are disapointed after they set
it up.the main reason is that when you make "Black Water" its hard to
see through the tank.(make a cup of tea and put it in a glass and you
ll see what i mean.Your choice of plants will also be limited.Plus you
will also have to almost double your light output.For tetras they do
terrific in it(neons, cardinals, glow lites,head &tail lights etc.etc.
Ive used peat to do it and alsoBlackWater extract with equal
results.If you attempt to do it try it out on a small scale and see if
you like it.
Regards Hank

> I just joined a few days ago,
> Has anyone here ever had a blackwater aquarium?
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25088 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Hi Noah,



Look into shell dweller cichlids.
http://www.shelldwellers.com/


I have kept Neolamprologus Multifasciatus for years. Much of the time in a 6 gallon eclipse tank and then a 10 gallon.
http://cichlidae.com/article.php?id=30

A similar fish is the similis. Same requirements to keep. http://www.thecichlidgallery.com/n.similis.htm

Or apistogramma species. Lots of variety! Colorful little fish.
Check out this forum, I know a couple of the people on there.
http://forum.apistogramma.com/

Aquabid apistos. http://www.aquabid.com/cgi-bin/auction/auction.cgi?disp&viewseller&Apistodave

I have Malawi cichlids and they are beautiful fish but...many of them get too large for a 10 gallon tank. Trust me on that one. Try the Apistos if you want colorful little cichlids.

-Mike
www.svas.info
wwwcichlidworld.com





I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!




-----Original Message-----
From: Noah Burge <noahburge2b@...>
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 12:29 pm
Subject: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids






I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!





________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25089 From: hank voss Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Colby <cbhardison@...> wrote:
>
Colby:
The fish you mention below, your talking some BIG tanks.I would
sugguest that you read up on the fish first to see haw large they can
get and their feeding requirements.Otherwise your tjrowing big bucks
away.
Regards Haank
---------------------------------

> There are at least 2, maybe 3 species I would like to keep, and a
couple of the specimens I want would need their own tank, I know.
They are, a Chinese lionfish, and if possible, an electric eel. I'm
also considering a stingray.
>
>
> "To acheive true peace, we must first look at ourselves, for the
true path to enlightenment starts from within."
>
> Colby Hardison
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25090 From: Eric Roberts Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Lake Mawali cichlids are a “grouping” that consist of many different cichlid
specias that youi generally see as assorted cichlids in pet stores. Yes
they would be too crowded.. African Rift lake Cichlids require a lot of
hiding places or they end up attacking (and killing) each other. 2…maybe 3
would probably be ok. They are very aggressive fish and can be a challenge
to care for. Do some research on some of the cichlid sites…it will save a
lot of dead fish. There is a group called the American Cichlid Association.
They may have a chapter near you. I am not sure if it is accessable, but
the discovery earth series show, freshwater, goes to lake Mawali and you get
to see them in their natural habitat.



Eric



From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids



I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25091 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
I would not agree with the advice you were given and would not put Malawi in
a 10G. If you wanted a cichlid, I’d do a pair of shellies from Lake
Tanganyika.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 3:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids



I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25092 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
John, what Africans do you keep? I have a 125G Malawi tank and a 38G Tang
tank.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 3:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids



Hi Noah

Apparently your LFS knows very little about fish keeping.

There are 100's of different Malawi Species. They are very territorial and
most are very aggressive. They come originally from Lake Malawi in Africa.
Some species need Rock Work to live in These species are called Mbuna.

And yes 4 or 5 would be way too many for a 10 gallon aquarium. They also
require some special needs such as a Higher than normal PH, higher
temperature and Hard Water.

If you need any special information on these fish let me know and I can give
you more. I specialize in Africans

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@ <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com> wrote:
I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25093 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Noah,

Definitely do not go with what that fish store employee is telling you as
they are very, very wrong.

On my blog, there is a 10G recommended stocking list of suitable fish for a
10G tank. I wouldn't attempt too much more than what is on that list but
there are a couple of cichlids that can be kept in a 10G. Hailey talks
about the cichlids in a 10G in the "Species Only" section of the article
about half way down the article. Check out the list and try to go with what
Hailey recommends.

http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/search/label/10%20Gallon%20Tank%20Stocking%20S
uggestions

On the right side, there is a link to 10G stocking list under the labels
section if this link breaks which is likely with yahoo groups.

As to your reference to your tank being cycled for a while now... are you
still adding ammonia to the tank on a daily basis? If not, it's not cycled
in the sense that fish keepers refer to the word "cycle" meaning the
nitrogen cycle. If you haven't been adding ammonia on a daily basis, while
at my blog, look under the labels section for the nitrogen cycle and read up
on fishless cycling so you can get the 10G ready for fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Noah Burge
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 2:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids

I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while now).
I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even possible to
have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told me about "Malawi
cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but he showed me one in a
display tank that was about 2 inches long and said they would look more or
less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several different
species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch fish
(especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1191 - Release Date: 12/20/2007
2:14 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25094 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Pet Store Frustrations
Well for a they always say "they should be coming in on the next
shipment...," and it never arrives. Then when they say oh we can order
them for you, I can order them myself, I like the option of just
running to the store to get them. For B I purchased a holographic 3-D
backround and the wetting of the tank, I use 6" drywall scraper, does
not work, it looks horrible, frustrates me to look at it. For C I
suppose I have a hard time believing a very popular fish store would
rip me off of $58 for a decoration. $10 ok, $20 hey what's going on
here, but %400 higher, that's insanity. I guess I need to come to the
realization that a carry-on laptop to cross-reference the prices of
local franchise stores is necessary in this day and age. Sad sad world.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25095 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/21/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
Actually at this point I have the following, which by the way was sent four years ago overnight from That Fish Place in Lancaster Penn to my home in Nevada. These were all the Species of my Choice.

Iodotropheus Sprengerae (Rusty) 3 - Started with 4
Labidochromis Caeruleus ( Yellow Lab) 3 - Started with 5
Melanochromis Cyaneorhabdos ( Maingano) 13 - Started with 6
Pseudotropheus Socolofi ( Blue ) 5 - Started with 6

By this you can see which species was the dominant species.

I started with 2 small Plecos which grew to about 6" or 7" and then got killed off.

I presently have one Pleco which I bought small and is now about 4"

Now you know my history I love my Fish. I presently am way over filtered, running a Emperor 400, a Aquaclear 110, and a 250 HOT Magnum.

I also have about 30 Rocks as well as 2 sewer pipes in the 75 Gallon Aquarium. Oh yes I also use an Eheim auto feeder, feeding 2 Times daily.

Anybody else interested in additives and my parameters I will furnish on request.

John in Nevada


Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
John, what Africans do you keep? I have a 125G Malawi tank and a 38G Tang
tank.

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of JOHN KD7POE
Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 3:57 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [AquaticLife] Malawi cichlids

Hi Noah

Apparently your LFS knows very little about fish keeping.

There are 100's of different Malawi Species. They are very territorial and
most are very aggressive. They come originally from Lake Malawi in Africa.
Some species need Rock Work to live in These species are called Mbuna.

And yes 4 or 5 would be way too many for a 10 gallon aquarium. They also
require some special needs such as a Higher than normal PH, higher
temperature and Hard Water.

If you need any special information on these fish let me know and I can give
you more. I specialize in Africans

Noah Burge <noahburge2b@ <mailto:noahburge2b%40yahoo.com> yahoo.com> wrote:
I have a 10 gallon tank that needs fish in it (been cycled for a while
now). I expressed an intrest in cichlids, not thinking it was even
possible to have 1 cichlid in such a small tank. My local lfs guy told
me about "Malawi cichlids". He didn't have any in stock right then, but
he showed me one in a display tank that was about 2 inches long and
said they would look more or less like that, and that I could put 4 or
5 in a 10 gallon. Now my question is: #1, aren't there several
different species of Malawi cichlids? And #2, wouldn't 4 or 5 two inch
fish (especially cichlids) be overcrowded in a 10 G?

Thanks for your advice!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25096 From: texaslonghorns81 Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
I'm living in a 1100 square foot apartment with my fiancee, and am
very interested in getting an aquarium with African Cichlids but have
two questions.

#1. What is the smallest size aquarium that won't be difficult to
keep healthy? (For example, a 10 gallon aquarium probably has less
stable water chemistry)


#2. Do any of you keep an aquarium and also have cats? Is it
difficult to keep the cat/fish safe? Or do that cats generally leave
your aquariums alone?

Thanks for your answers!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25097 From: Angela Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt res
I have fish and a cat. The cat doesn't bother them in any threatening way. I
do think he's going to give my silver dollar a heart attack one day. He
likes to sit in front of the tank and leap up and try to swipe at the poor
fish... LOL! You'd think the dumb cat would figure out he can't get the fish
but not so far. Most cichlids require a lot of space, there's others here
that can help you more on this.
Angela

-------Original Message-------

From: texaslonghorns81
Date: 12/22/2007 12:06:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [SPAM] [AquaticLife] Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt
resident)

I'm living in a 1100 square foot apartment with my fiancee, and am
very interested in getting an aquarium with African Cichlids but have
two questions.

#1. What is the smallest size aquarium that won't be difficult to
keep healthy? (For example, a 10 gallon aquarium probably has less
stable water chemistry)

#2. Do any of you keep an aquarium and also have cats? Is it
difficult to keep the cat/fish safe? Or do that cats generally leave
your aquariums alone?

Thanks for your answers!





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25098 From: bmp Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
Hi,

In my (limited) experience, a 29 gallon is the
smallest I've kept in which I have had confidence in
the water quality without very frequent checking. It
has a 'footprint' of 30 inches long x 12 inches wide
(front to back). I change about 25% of the water every
two weeks and it does well. It is planted (about 40%
of the surface area, plus a medium-sized piece of
bogwood) and houses rainbowfish, plus the usual
clean-up crew of corydoras catfish and otocinclus
catfish. In case you were wondering, yes, I am moving
the rainbows to a larger/longer tank (my early
Christmas present, smile) as soon as I can.

We also have a cat. She is young, smart and observant
but...except for one day when the tanks had been set
up about a year already, she hasn't shown any interest
in the aquariums or their contents. Just to play it
safe, I do strongly advise you to keep a good lid on
each tank you have. Not only can cats go fishin', some
fish will leap out. You don't want any disasters you
could prevent.

Good luck and Hook 'Em,
Beverly

--- texaslonghorns81 <ybvisions@...> wrote:

> I'm living in a 1100 square foot apartment with my
> fiancee, and am
> very interested in getting an aquarium with African
> Cichlids but have
> two questions.
>
> #1. What is the smallest size aquarium that won't
> be difficult to
> keep healthy? (For example, a 10 gallon aquarium
> probably has less
> stable water chemistry)
>
>
> #2. Do any of you keep an aquarium and also have
> cats? Is it
> difficult to keep the cat/fish safe? Or do that
> cats generally leave
> your aquariums alone?
>
> Thanks for your answers!
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25099 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/22/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)
I advise to get the largest tank you have room and money for to start.
If by Africans, you mean Rift Lake cichlids, I'd recommend a 55 gallon
tank to start, because as a new tank owner, you'll be liable to make
mistakes, and the fish you will probably choose will be on the large
side.

Cats and aquaria can get along. Depends mostly on the cat. I have cats
and dogs. The dogs will have a tendency to drink out of the ponds you
may have at any given time, And, while my cats have shown interest in
the fish, once they discover they will need to get wet to reach them,
they are satisfied to watch and maybe bat at the tank with their paws. I
only have one cat currently, and he does not even like to go out after a
rain--he will get his feet wet if he does <g>.

I have a number of friends who also have cats and not one has had any
real problem with the cats except for an occasional misstep leading to a
wet cat, and a funny story (I do have my own story).

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of texaslonghorns81
Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 11:30 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Minimum healthy aquarium size? (for apt resident)

I'm living in a 1100 square foot apartment with my fiancee, and am
very interested in getting an aquarium with African Cichlids but have
two questions.

#1. What is the smallest size aquarium that won't be difficult to
keep healthy? (For example, a 10 gallon aquarium probably has less
stable water chemistry)


#2. Do any of you keep an aquarium and also have cats? Is it
difficult to keep the cat/fish safe? Or do that cats generally leave
your aquariums alone?

Thanks for your answers!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25100 From: Michael Date: 12/23/2007
Subject: anyone in this group live near me in McHenry County, IL?
Hi,

My name is Michael 40/M/IL USA

Does anyone here in this group live near Harvard, IL 60033?

I am an hour and a half NW of Chicago.

I have some live plants to sell, trade or give away.

Thanks,

Michael Jensen
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25101 From: texaslonghorns81 Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: Minimum healthy aquarium size?
Thanks Beverly - Your answers are very helpful!

Hook em'

Jake
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25103 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the boesemani prefers more
swimming room, I think. I don’t know much about rainbows.



On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G, I would double the
numbers as you have room and they like to be in larger groups. There will
also be less aggression if you have larger numbers of fish to spread it
around.



Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows



well i m about to try this right now i have a 55gallon with 1 boesemani
rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish have died off
probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but those r the 3 i have
right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon tank that house 3
african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment i am thinking bout
moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow and the 2 tetras i
realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for food to the cichlids
but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s size. eventually i
will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon tank also so by the
end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3 yellow labs, the
rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them alone anyone know if
this will work i have read i think on cichlid-forums.com that it would
be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the cichlid websites anyways.
PS i know the PH level has to be different for both the fish but i
think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for the cichlids will be
ok if acclimated properly same with the water temp.
thanks





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25104 From: steve Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: was thinking of the melochromis arturus cichlids
but they are way to agressive i think they would probably even kill off
the acei s i have so maybe down the street some time i will get some
electric blues but they are hard to find and somewhat expensive sorry
if i am getting the names wrong or spelling them wrong too. i will be
putting up some pics in my album once it is done and i get the yellow
labs(labidochromis careulus) lol i think that is close enough
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25105 From: bmp Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Hi Steve,

I know nothing about African cichlids but I am always
trying to learn more about rainbows. I have 7
bosemannis and I just received a 50 gallon tank to
move them to. They do best in groups and need a longer
tank for swimming room. So, since you already have a
55 and 1 bosemanni, I strongly suggest you add more
bosemannis (to benefit the lonely only you have)
before you add something different like the African
cichlids. Maybe you can find a compromise where you
add some of each? I wish you lots of luck. I am also
looking to find compatible tankmates for my rainbows
but I doubt I will get African cichlids, that's just
my preference.

Happy Christmas Eve (I need to get back to the
kitchen),
Beverly

--- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:

> People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the
> boesemani prefers more
> swimming room, I think. I don’t know much about
> rainbows.
>
>
>
> On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G, I
> would double the
> numbers as you have room and they like to be in
> larger groups. There will
> also be less aggression if you have larger numbers
> of fish to spread it
> around.
>
>
>
> Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african
> cichlids with rainbows
>
>
>
> well i m about to try this right now i have a
> 55gallon with 1 boesemani
> rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish
> have died off
> probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but
> those r the 3 i have
> right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon
> tank that house 3
> african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment i
> am thinking bout
> moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow
> and the 2 tetras i
> realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for food
> to the cichlids
> but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s
> size. eventually i
> will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon
> tank also so by the
> end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3
> yellow labs, the
> rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them
> alone anyone know if
> this will work i have read i think on
> cichlid-forums.com that it would
> be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the
> cichlid websites anyways.
> PS i know the PH level has to be different for both
> the fish but i
> think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for
> the cichlids will be
> ok if acclimated properly same with the water temp.
> thanks
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25106 From: bmp Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Hi, it's me again,

I forgot to mention that your tetras also do much
better in a group. The usual minimum is 5-6. I'm
hoping you can find a way to accomodate the needs of
all your fish so you can have a peaceful, healhtful
tank.

So long, more cookies to bake,
Beverly

--- bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:

> Hi Steve,
>
> I know nothing about African cichlids but I am
> always
> trying to learn more about rainbows. I have 7
> bosemannis and I just received a 50 gallon tank to
> move them to. They do best in groups and need a
> longer
> tank for swimming room. So, since you already have a
> 55 and 1 bosemanni, I strongly suggest you add more
> bosemannis (to benefit the lonely only you have)
> before you add something different like the African
> cichlids. Maybe you can find a compromise where you
> add some of each? I wish you lots of luck. I am also
> looking to find compatible tankmates for my rainbows
> but I doubt I will get African cichlids, that's just
> my preference.
>
> Happy Christmas Eve (I need to get back to the
> kitchen),
> Beverly
>
> --- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
>
> > People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the
> > boesemani prefers more
> > swimming room, I think. I don’t know much about
> > rainbows.
> >
> >
> >
> > On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G,
> I
> > would double the
> > numbers as you have room and they like to be in
> > larger groups. There will
> > also be less aggression if you have larger numbers
> > of fish to spread it
> > around.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african
> > cichlids with rainbows
> >
> >
> >
> > well i m about to try this right now i have a
> > 55gallon with 1 boesemani
> > rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish
> > have died off
> > probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but
> > those r the 3 i have
> > right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon
> > tank that house 3
> > african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment
> i
> > am thinking bout
> > moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow
> > and the 2 tetras i
> > realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for
> food
> > to the cichlids
> > but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s
> > size. eventually i
> > will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon
> > tank also so by the
> > end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3
> > yellow labs, the
> > rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them
> > alone anyone know if
> > this will work i have read i think on
> > cichlid-forums.com that it would
> > be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the
> > cichlid websites anyways.
> > PS i know the PH level has to be different for
> both
> > the fish but i
> > think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for
> > the cichlids will be
> > ok if acclimated properly same with the water
> temp.
> > thanks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> when
> > replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING
> the
> > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Peace, please!
>
>
>
>
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25107 From: Christina Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Intro.........
Hello everyone.
Thank you for allowing me to become a member of your group.
My name is Christina and I live in Texas.

I have just gotten 2 fire bellied frogs as a Christmas gift!!
I was not expecting these little guys at all!

I have been reading info here & there on the net on care, feeding, etc.
If anyone else here has these cute frogs & had some tips, advice, etc I
would appreciate that very much.

Thank you!

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25108 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: fire bellied frogs
Hi Christina,

Welcome to the Group.

This is what the LFS keeps their Firebellied Toads in ~


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?
c=6016+6018+13979&pcatid=13979

Waters Edge BIO-Habitat
* The ultimate terrarium kit - everything's included!
* Eclipse 3-stage filtration provides optimal water quality
* Ideal for turtles, frogs, toads, newts and salamanders


here is the first page I found when I searched ~

http://allaboutfrogs.org/info/mypets/firebellies.html



Have fun with your new pets, they are really cute and fun to watch.


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Christina" <plantinga3@...> wrote:
>
> Hello everyone.
> Thank you for allowing me to become a member of your group.
> My name is Christina and I live in Texas.
>
> I have just gotten 2 fire bellied frogs as a Christmas gift!!
> I was not expecting these little guys at all!
>
> I have been reading info here & there on the net on care, feeding,
etc.
> If anyone else here has these cute frogs & had some tips, advice,
etc I
> would appreciate that very much.
>
> Thank you!
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25109 From: Tricia Date: 12/24/2007
Subject: Re: blackwater aquarium
Blackwater aquarium? This sounded interesting to me, so I have begun
researching as a something that may be doable for me. I was wndering
if anyone had any pics of their blackwater aquarium(s) they would
share with us> I am especially intrigued by some of the species I
have seen listed as blackwater fish.
Thanks
Tricia



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "hank voss" <aatetras@...> wrote:
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Colby" <cbhardison@> wrote:
> >
> Colby:
> > Ive maintained several Blackwater tanks over the years and ill
> tell you they are mainly for the "purist" aquarist.Have you ever seen a
> blackwater tank? Most people who try one are disapointed after they set
> it up.the main reason is that when you make "Black Water" its hard to
> see through the tank.(make a cup of tea and put it in a glass and you
> ll see what i mean.Your choice of plants will also be limited.Plus you
> will also have to almost double your light output.For tetras they do
> terrific in it(neons, cardinals, glow lites,head &tail lights etc.etc.
> Ive used peat to do it and alsoBlackWater extract with equal
> results.If you attempt to do it try it out on a small scale and see if
> you like it.
> Regards Hank
>
> > I just joined a few days ago,
> > Has anyone here ever had a blackwater aquarium?
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25110 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: For Your Christmas Enjoyment - Some Videos
I'm Dreaming of a . . .
http://tinyurl.com/2qdwmu

It could be a most excellent Christmas present:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpBG-nSRcrQ

Was one of these under your tree?
http://tinyurl.com/39teas

Set this up in your living room to play Christmas songs.
http://tinyurl.com/39teas

Did you get a brand new shiny Mac? Maybe you should reconsider.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsKKQNZG3rE

This deer is not going to be Christmas dinner.
http://tinyurl.com/2rj9fl

An ad agency's idea of a Christmas card.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1cmmuq5TAZw

Guys, start drinking, maybe you can get this done today!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jp8jIPaX9BM

Merry Christmas to all.


\\Steve//
"If at first you don't succeed, try,
try, and try again. Then give up.
There's no use being a damned
fool about it."
- William Claude Dunkenfield (W. C. Fields)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25111 From: Bill Lane Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Merry Christmas - Something Different
Merry Christmas All,





For this year I have changed from the usual trains under the tree thing by
introducing one of the newer members of our family. HYPERLINK
"http://www.lanestrains.com/Lane_Xmas_Card.jpg"http://www.lanestrains.com/La
ne_Xmas_Card.jpg We got everything in October.





Lenny (Donna picked that name) is our first fish. He has his own tank. The 6
fish in the other tank are not named.



With any luck we may be in the house buying way in 2008. We can get a big
basement for the trains and also get a BIG tank then!





Thank You,

Bill Lane



Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988



See my finished models at:

http://www.lanestrains.com

Winner of the 2007 Josh Seltzer NASG Website Award

Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!



Importing a Brass S Scale PRR X29 & G26

http://www.pennsysmodels.com



PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded

(Trading is MUCH preferred)

http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRphotos.xls



***Join the PRR T&HS***

The other members are not ALL like me!

http://www.prrths.com

http://www.lanestrains.com/PRRTHS_Application.pdf



Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society

It's FREE (for now) http://www.prslhs.com

Preserving The Memory Of The PRSL



See my Altoona train videos here http://www.myspace.com/billlane






No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1195 - Release Date: 12/24/2007
11:19 AM



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25112 From: Rick McElveen Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Please help - my Beta's gill is swollen ...
Hi, I'm new here and would appreciate any help you can give. My
Mother and I have had a Beta (which we named Faith) for probably 3
months now. He's been great and we've become attached to him since he
is our only pet. We don't know if he injured himself or if it was
something we did but his gill on one side seems swollen and he is not
eating well. He is still lively though when we approach him but
listless otherwise and stays on the bottom.

We want to do all we can to help him. Any suggestions/advice? We have
raised the temp in the tank to around 80 - previously it was a little
low - around 72.

Thank you ... Rick
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25113 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: Merry Christmas - Something Different
Is he named after me? LOL

Merry Christmas everyone!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Lane
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 4:45 AM
To: brasscollectors@yahoogroups.com; S Scale List; S Scale Model
Railraoding; S Trains; S-Mod@yahoogroups.com
Cc: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com; tropicalfishclub@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Merry Christmas - Something Different

Merry Christmas All,

For this year I have changed from the usual trains under the tree thing by
introducing one of the newer members of our family. HYPERLINK
"http://www.lanestrains.com/Lane_Xmas_Card.jpg
<http://www.lanestrains.com/Lane_Xmas_Card.jpg>
"http://www.lanestrains.com/La <http://www.lanestrains.com/La>
ne_Xmas_Card.jpg We got everything in October.

Lenny (Donna picked that name) is our first fish. He has his own tank. The 6
fish in the other tank are not named.

With any luck we may be in the house buying way in 2008. We can get a big
basement for the trains and also get a BIG tank then!

Thank You,

Bill Lane


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1195 - Release Date: 12/24/2007
11:19 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25114 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: Please help - my Beta's gill is swollen ...
Tell us more about his home. What size tank, bowl, vase, etc. is he in?
What is your schedule for doing cleaning, PWC's (partial water changes),
etc... and how do you do the cleaning and PWC's.

Most fish health problems are related to water quality and stress related
issues. When fish get stressed, their immune systems falter and then they
get sick over things they would normally handle with no problem. Your guy
could have some minor irritation of the gills related to water quality or it
could be some kind of infection. Often times, fixing the water quality
issues will allow the fish to heal on it's own.

There are treatments that can help also. One common treatment is called
BettaFix which is just a 10% solution of MelaFix. If you can find MelaFix
(which would be less expensive than Bettafix) at your local pet store, you
could just use it but use 1/2 or less dosage since there are some reports of
the main ingredient in MelaFix causing irritation to the labyrinth on Bettas
and other surface breathing enabled fish. I've used up to 1/2 doses on my
gourami's (also a labyrinth fish) in the past with no problems.

While Betta's are a reasonably low maintenance fish, they do need more than
what many people give them. They should live for over five years and even
up to 10 years but they rarely make it that long in the small containers
that many retail outlets sell as Betta "bowls". Their average life in a
Betta bowl is only 1-2 years. I know the stores sell them in the little
vases but something at least 3G or even a 10G would make a much better home.


If you still have him in a small container, you could get a 10G kit very
cheap at Wal-Mart which would include a filter system and heater (in some
cases). That would help tremendously in the long term in keeping him
healthy in the future. Also adding some live easy to grow plants would help
keep the water quality a little better since plants add O2 to the water and
take out some of the nasties.

One of the problems with keeping them in small container is that people
often over-clean the container and do 100% PWC's, neither of which is
actually a good thing to do. It's best to limit PWC's to 25-33% at a time
so you do not change their water parameters too much, too fast. But in a
small vase or bowl, it's hard to do such small changes and still get all the
detritus (fish poop, uneaten food, etc.) out of the gravel, so people end up
doing large PWC's to get the detritus out. So the fish goes from dirty
water to clean water and while that sounds like a good thing, the fish
actually slowly acclimates to the water parameters of the dirty water and
then when you change them dramatically to clean water, it stresses them out
and affects their osmoregulatory system and this stress can often lead to
the immune system issues previously mentioned.

You mentioned raising the temperature. Since you raised it from 72 to 80,
you should have done this in 1F increments over the course of 7-10 days to
give the fish a chance to acclimate. This is another problem with doing
large PWC's, when the water temps are different and that causes fish stress.

Here's a couple of Betta Care sites I have in my favorites folder for
Bettas.

http://aquatic-hobbyist.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5

http://thegab.org/Articles/BettaBasics.html

Give us more details and we can help more.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Rick McElveen
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 7:07 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Please help - my Beta's gill is swollen ...

Hi, I'm new here and would appreciate any help you can give. My Mother and I
have had a Beta (which we named Faith) for probably 3 months now. He's been
great and we've become attached to him since he is our only pet. We don't
know if he injured himself or if it was something we did but his gill on one
side seems swollen and he is not eating well. He is still lively though when
we approach him but listless otherwise and stays on the bottom.

We want to do all we can to help him. Any suggestions/advice? We have raised
the temp in the tank to around 80 - previously it was a little low - around
72.

Thank you ... Rick






No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1195 - Release Date: 12/24/2007
11:19 AM



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.8/1195 - Release Date: 12/24/2007
11:19 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25115 From: steve Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
hi again

i actually had about 10 tetras in there most of them either black
skirt or black phantom tetras which actually were so hard for me to
tell the difference between them cause my phantoms were getting so
big that their bottom fin was really big so it was lookin like a
black skirt but anyways most of them died off due to age i think.i
heard that about the rainbows also to put them in groups but the 1 i
have seems to be doing just fine he plays with all the others i think
i will get 1 or 2 more though lol it will kinda mix the 2 africans
together lol the acei s i have r blue well yellow fins but mostly
blue while the yellow labs i get are of course yellow while the
boesemanian s are half blue and half yellow
thanks for the ideas though i will probably do something about the
rainbows now the question is do they have to be the boesemanians or
just a mix of any rainbow
PS my largest acei is probably pushing 4 inches i think almost full
grown maybe another inch or so
i have now had the acei s in the tank with the 2 tetras and the
rainbow for a day now and no nipping at the fins on any of the fish
wow that suprised me i thought that the tetras would of been gone by
now




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, it's me again,
>
> I forgot to mention that your tetras also do much
> better in a group. The usual minimum is 5-6. I'm
> hoping you can find a way to accomodate the needs of
> all your fish so you can have a peaceful, healhtful
> tank.
>
> So long, more cookies to bake,
> Beverly
>
> --- bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I know nothing about African cichlids but I am
> > always
> > trying to learn more about rainbows. I have 7
> > bosemannis and I just received a 50 gallon tank to
> > move them to. They do best in groups and need a
> > longer
> > tank for swimming room. So, since you already have a
> > 55 and 1 bosemanni, I strongly suggest you add more
> > bosemannis (to benefit the lonely only you have)
> > before you add something different like the African
> > cichlids. Maybe you can find a compromise where you
> > add some of each? I wish you lots of luck. I am also
> > looking to find compatible tankmates for my rainbows
> > but I doubt I will get African cichlids, that's just
> > my preference.
> >
> > Happy Christmas Eve (I need to get back to the
> > kitchen),
> > Beverly
> >
> > --- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
> >
> > > People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the
> > > boesemani prefers more
> > > swimming room, I think. I don't know much about
> > > rainbows.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G,
> > I
> > > would double the
> > > numbers as you have room and they like to be in
> > > larger groups. There will
> > > also be less aggression if you have larger numbers
> > > of fish to spread it
> > > around.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african
> > > cichlids with rainbows
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > well i m about to try this right now i have a
> > > 55gallon with 1 boesemani
> > > rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish
> > > have died off
> > > probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but
> > > those r the 3 i have
> > > right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon
> > > tank that house 3
> > > african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment
> > i
> > > am thinking bout
> > > moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow
> > > and the 2 tetras i
> > > realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for
> > food
> > > to the cichlids
> > > but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s
> > > size. eventually i
> > > will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon
> > > tank also so by the
> > > end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3
> > > yellow labs, the
> > > rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them
> > > alone anyone know if
> > > this will work i have read i think on
> > > cichlid-forums.com that it would
> > > be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the
> > > cichlid websites anyways.
> > > PS i know the PH level has to be different for
> > both
> > > the fish but i
> > > think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for
> > > the cichlids will be
> > > ok if acclimated properly same with the water
> > temp.
> > > thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> > when
> > > replying, thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING
> > the
> > > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> > <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > > matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Peace, please!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> > replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Peace, please!
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25116 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
Acei normal size at maturity is 6” and they commonly get to 7”. This is a
large fish for a mbuna.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 3:06 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows



hi again

i actually had about 10 tetras in there most of them either black
skirt or black phantom tetras which actually were so hard for me to
tell the difference between them cause my phantoms were getting so
big that their bottom fin was really big so it was lookin like a
black skirt but anyways most of them died off due to age i think.i
heard that about the rainbows also to put them in groups but the 1 i
have seems to be doing just fine he plays with all the others i think
i will get 1 or 2 more though lol it will kinda mix the 2 africans
together lol the acei s i have r blue well yellow fins but mostly
blue while the yellow labs i get are of course yellow while the
boesemanian s are half blue and half yellow
thanks for the ideas though i will probably do something about the
rainbows now the question is do they have to be the boesemanians or
just a mix of any rainbow
PS my largest acei is probably pushing 4 inches i think almost full
grown maybe another inch or so
i have now had the acei s in the tank with the 2 tetras and the
rainbow for a day now and no nipping at the fins on any of the fish
wow that suprised me i thought that the tetras would of been gone by
now

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, it's me again,
>
> I forgot to mention that your tetras also do much
> better in a group. The usual minimum is 5-6. I'm
> hoping you can find a way to accomodate the needs of
> all your fish so you can have a peaceful, healhtful
> tank.
>
> So long, more cookies to bake,
> Beverly
>
> --- bmp <bmpardue@...> wrote:
>
> > Hi Steve,
> >
> > I know nothing about African cichlids but I am
> > always
> > trying to learn more about rainbows. I have 7
> > bosemannis and I just received a 50 gallon tank to
> > move them to. They do best in groups and need a
> > longer
> > tank for swimming room. So, since you already have a
> > 55 and 1 bosemanni, I strongly suggest you add more
> > bosemannis (to benefit the lonely only you have)
> > before you add something different like the African
> > cichlids. Maybe you can find a compromise where you
> > add some of each? I wish you lots of luck. I am also
> > looking to find compatible tankmates for my rainbows
> > but I doubt I will get African cichlids, that's just
> > my preference.
> >
> > Happy Christmas Eve (I need to get back to the
> > kitchen),
> > Beverly
> >
> > --- Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
> >
> > > People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the
> > > boesemani prefers more
> > > swimming room, I think. I don't know much about
> > > rainbows.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G,
> > I
> > > would double the
> > > numbers as you have room and they like to be in
> > > larger groups. There will
> > > also be less aggression if you have larger numbers
> > > of fish to spread it
> > > around.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _____
> > >
> > > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of steve
> > > Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african
> > > cichlids with rainbows
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > well i m about to try this right now i have a
> > > 55gallon with 1 boesemani
> > > rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish
> > > have died off
> > > probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but
> > > those r the 3 i have
> > > right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon
> > > tank that house 3
> > > african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment
> > i
> > > am thinking bout
> > > moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow
> > > and the 2 tetras i
> > > realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for
> > food
> > > to the cichlids
> > > but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s
> > > size. eventually i
> > > will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon
> > > tank also so by the
> > > end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3
> > > yellow labs, the
> > > rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them
> > > alone anyone know if
> > > this will work i have read i think on
> > > cichlid-forums.com that it would
> > > be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the
> > > cichlid websites anyways.
> > > PS i know the PH level has to be different for
> > both
> > > the fish but i
> > > think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for
> > > the cichlids will be
> > > ok if acclimated properly same with the water
> > temp.
> > > thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been
> > > removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it
> > when
> > > replying, thanks.
> > > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING
> > the
> > > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)"
> > <-
> > > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > > matter.
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Peace, please!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
__________________________________________________________
______________
> > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> > http://www.yahoo <http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs> com/r/hs
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> > replying, thanks.
> > ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> > ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> > that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> > TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> > .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> > matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> Peace, please!
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo <http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs> com/r/hs
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25117 From: milind korday Date: 12/25/2007
Subject: Re: anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows
dear whom so ever....

normaly compatibility / atmosphere /ph of water / hiding places/ salt play a great role
in the aqurium.
see the compatibility first chichlids are very aggressive they need high ph
rather than rainbows.. rainbows needs softwater.... again the feeding criteria
wether veg/non.veg.... hebruvorous / carnivorous and both.....
3rd the range where they live.... chichlids are mostly in the bottom layers
and rainbows move in the upper middle of the aqurium..

I hope u may be getting what i want to say..

but i have seen when the any variety of small babies kept together they make good friend
ship with each other..... then best luck ...... afterall its a game of trial error business..
with caution.


milind..india

Donna Ransome <djransome@...> wrote:
People do mix mbuna and Rainbows, although the boesemani prefers more
swimming room, I think. I don’t know much about rainbows.

On mixing 3 each of Acei and Yellow Labs in a 55G, I would double the
numbers as you have room and they like to be in larger groups. There will
also be less aggression if you have larger numbers of fish to spread it
around.

Sounds like a nice tank, enjoy it!

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 9:27 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] anyone ever mix african cichlids with rainbows

well i m about to try this right now i have a 55gallon with 1 boesemani
rainbow and 2 black phantom tetra, all other fish have died off
probably due to age or whatever i m not sure but those r the 3 i have
right now in my 55 gallon i also have a 29 gallon tank that house 3
african cichlid Acei s rated at a mild temperment i am thinking bout
moving them to the 55 gallon tank with the rainbow and the 2 tetras i
realize the tetras r probably going bye bye for food to the cichlids
but i imagine the rainbow will be ok due to it s size. eventually i
will be putting a few yellow labs in the 55 gallon tank also so by the
end of next week i am planning on have 3 acei, 3 yellow labs, the
rainbow, and the tetras if the aceis leave them alone anyone know if
this will work i have read i think on cichlid-forums.com that it would
be ok i think that was it anyways or 1 of the cichlid websites anyways.
PS i know the PH level has to be different for both the fish but i
think i lil high for the rainbow and a lil low for the cichlids will be
ok if acclimated properly same with the water temp.
thanks

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25118 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: Malawi cichlids
I take care of a 10 gallon aquarium for a resident in the nursing home
that I work for. I currently keep 6 small under one inch malawi
cichlid fry from my breeding ventures at home. Day by day they grow
more aggressive and territorial. My Melanochromis Cyaneorhabdos (not
to be confused with M. johanii which the pet stores ALWAYS call them,
but are severely wrong) is already showing strong territorial signs,
and will likely have to be brought back home and exchanged for smaller
and less agressive fry to occupy the resident's tank. It happens real
quickly and you'll end up with dead fish.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25120 From: bmp Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
I hope all the fish will do well.

Beverly

--- steve <steve01@...> wrote:

> put them in the tank with my 3 acei s, 1 rainbow and
> 2 black phantom
> tetras. after accalmating them and putting them in
> the tank all the
> other fish seemed to chase the 4 yellow labs but
> just as they got close
> to them they would dart away maybe they were playing
> or just seeing
> what they were it has now been about an hour or an
> hour and a half
> since the yellow labs have been in the tank and now
> are freely swimming
> thoughout the tank, the weird thing was when all the
> fish were chasing
> around the new yellow labs it seemed like the
> biggest acei was kinda
> chasing all the other fish away from the yellow labs
> like he was kinda
> sticking up for them. but now an hour or so later
> nobody is bothering
> them


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
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Group: AquaticLife Message: 25121 From: Rei - Raymond Tremor Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Help with sick female guppy.
I have uploaded a picture of my female guppy with a stuff on her stomach. It looks like her guts or maybe a tumor. It is on rei's fishes directory. Can you tell me what is it and if it contagious to the other fishes. They are on a 30 gallons (36 inches in length, 17 inches in height, and 12 inches from front to back). She is actively eating and swimming so I am puzzled what that thing is. Thanks in advance for whatever help you can share.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25122 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/26/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Remember to keep an eye on ammonia/nitrite levels on a daily basis for the
week or two so you can do PWC's, if needed, to keep them below the 1.0 ppm
level. You increased the bioload by 66% so your nitrifying bacteria colony
will need time to grow to handle the increased bioload. This will also mean
that you need to increase the frequency of the maintenance on the filters
and PWC's to take care of the faster growing nitrate levels and other DOC's.


Of course, some natural things affect the toxicity of ammonia and nitrite
and can be used to alleviate the effect on your fish, such as adding a pinch
of salt per 10G for nitrite poisoning and things like pH and temperature
affect the ammonia toxicity. This site explains the pH/temp affect on
ammonia toxicity... http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
There are also chemicals that some folks use to make ammonia levels lower
and thus less toxic but it's better for your fish to use PWC's, rather than
chemicals.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:00 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] just got my 4 yellow labs

put them in the tank with my 3 acei s, 1 rainbow and 2 black phantom tetras.
after accalmating them and putting them in the tank all the other fish
seemed to chase the 4 yellow labs but just as they got close to them they
would dart away maybe they were playing or just seeing what they were it has
now been about an hour or an hour and a half since the yellow labs have been
in the tank and now are freely swimming thoughout the tank, the weird thing
was when all the fish were chasing around the new yellow labs it seemed like
the biggest acei was kinda chasing all the other fish away from the yellow
labs like he was kinda sticking up for them. but now an hour or so later
nobody is bothering them


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1197 - Release Date: 12/25/2007
8:04 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25124 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Steve,

Just to benefit others who may be reading this thread...

You shouldn't be getting a nitrite reading at all in a properly cycled tank.
If you are getting a nitrite reading, then you either have too little
filtration or too heavy of a bioload... or possibly you are over-cleaning
your filter when you do your tank maintenance.

While, under normal circumstances, your nitrate reading will increase
between PWC's (25% partial water changes), your nitrite and ammonia levels
should stay at 0.0 ppm at all times. If you are getting a reading of any
level, it means your tank is going into a mini-cycle which is most often
caused by over-cleaning your filters or changing them out completely when
doing filter maintenance, presuming you have sufficient filtration.

Also, it's not good to wait until the water parameters get bad enough so
they are affecting the way the fish act and then doing a large PWC. This
means you are letting the water parameters get bad enough to affect the fish
and then dramatically changing the water parameters which is stressful to
fish and affects their long term health and overall lifespan. While you may
not see any immediate deaths as a result of your system, it will most likely
affect their long term health. Please reconsider doing more frequent
smaller PWC's. I know it's more work but it's much better for your fish.

Also, for anyone else reading this, I wrote a Filter Maintenance article a
couple of years ago which I have on my blog if you would like to see how I
do things.
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/notice-this-article-is-very-important.
html If the link breaks, just go to my blog and the article is listed on
the right side under Filter Maintenance and Cleaning Recommendations.

As to the reliability of published books or their authors, anyone can get a
book published... it doesn't mean they know fiddly about what they are
talking about. I'm not saying your LFS owner doesn't know what they are
talking about, I'm simply saying don't base it on the fact they have a book
published. I have several fish keeping books that I've bought at garage
sales, simply to get them out of circulation because of the horrible advice
contained in them. I didn't want anyone else to buy them and follow the
fish killing information contained in the "published" books.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 6:53 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: just got my 4 yellow labs

thanks for the advice
will consider it all please don t take this the wrong way but i can tell
when it needs a water change just by watching the fish and their swimming
patterns even though i am still relativately new to the hobby (5 years +) it
s come to the point where i am doing water changes about every 3 weeks or so
i know what you mean though with the more fish it s gonna get dirty faster
so maybe 2 weeks or week and a half for a few water changes, just gonna have
to keep an eye on their swimming lol i know that sounds crazy but honestly i
haven t done water test in about a year or more and haven t lost a fish in
that time and the all seem to be happy swimming freely and playing around.
this is the first time i have cichlids though and only had the acei for
about 6 months but they seem to be growing good, eating well, and very
active,but i think i will be getting some of those test strips that you dip
in the water(i find those just as accurate as any other test kits and they
are fairly cheap when compared to a master test kit). maybe we can all learn
something from me here just by watching your fish and taking mental notes of
swimming habits after you do water changes and for about a week after the
notice how they are swimming and once you notice them maybe not as active or
maybe hiding in rocks or whatever it maybe that is different it is time for
a water change. now it took me a few good years to catch onto this but i
swear it works for me. like i said i haven t used a water test kit for over
a year now(reasons for this kept getting the same water test results time
after time or approxiamtely the same increase of nitrate,nitrite and other
water parameters, week after week year after year say for instance nitrite
was after a water change pretty much 0 and for a few days it might be 0 and
after a week it would be maybe .01 or .1 whichever it is and week 2 it goes
up to about .02 or .2 like i said can t remember lol and i believe the safe
zone was up to about 1.0 so after about 3 weeks it would be up to the half
way mark between clean and dirty at the .05 or .5 mark then do about a 50
percent water change give or take now i know this isn t the prefered method
most people do about 10 or 20 percent a week but it works for me the 50
percent about every 3 weeks and as the saying goes if it aint broke don t
fix it. i also use the same method with my saltwater tank lol now i know you
all are gonna think i m crazy that i don t test the water on that for a
while now. but i got the water changes down to a science on that also lol i
am crazy but i haven t lost a fish now in a couple years in my saltwater
tank infact i have had my 2 clownfish now for over 5 years now and 2 damsels
for a at least 4 years and my angelfish now for a good year or more.

but anyways the moral of this story is i guess just take some time and
notice the swimming habits of your fish and notice before water changes and
after maybe soon you won t need to worry about test kits either

PS this is my local fish store s website i really only buy fish and food
there anything else i usually buy online but the guys there are great and if
they don t know something about certain species they let you know say for
instance their speciality is saltwater even though they will help you the
best they can they will get someone else that can help you more or ask you
to call up if it is a question that can be answered over the phone when
someone is there i think it is the nicest fish store in the pittsburgh area
and i have been to at least a half dozen in pittsburgh area or more big and
small shops noting i have found can compare to these guys but here is the
site check them out or if your in the area i would definately go there just
their set up is a site to see
http://www.wetpetsandfriends.com/pittsburghpetsupplystore.htm
<http://www.wetpetsandfriends.com/pittsburghpetsupplystore.htm>
the owner actually has 2 published books i believe so i would say he really
knows his fish

i know i have been going on forever now so talk to you later can t wait to
see responses to this 1 lol

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Remember to keep an eye on ammonia/nitrite levels on a daily basis
for the
> week or two so you can do PWC's, if needed, to keep them below the
1.0 ppm
> level. You increased the bioload by 66% so your nitrifying
bacteria colony
> will need time to grow to handle the increased bioload. This will
also mean
> that you need to increase the frequency of the maintenance on the
filters
> and PWC's to take care of the faster growing nitrate levels and
other DOC's.
>
>
> Of course, some natural things affect the toxicity of ammonia and
nitrite
> and can be used to alleviate the effect on your fish, such as
adding a pinch
> of salt per 10G for nitrite poisoning and things like pH and
temperature
> affect the ammonia toxicity. This site explains the pH/temp affect
on
> ammonia toxicity...
http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html
<http://dataguru.org/misc/aquarium/AmmoniaTox.html>
> There are also chemicals that some folks use to make ammonia levels
lower
> and thus less toxic but it's better for your fish to use PWC's,
rather than
> chemicals.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1198 - Release Date: 12/26/2007
5:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25125 From: bmp Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
Hi Steve,

I would like to share my view in favor of regular
partial water changes. I do not wait until I see odd
swimming patterns or other difficulties in my fish
before I change their water. If I did, I would be
risking their deaths. When you start to see such
problems often it is too late to reverse the damage. A
partial water change at that point will help, of
course, but it can't undo what has already happened to
cause the fish to swim differently/badly.

I hope you will reconsider your position on this. I
agree with Lenny, you have to take care of the water
quality before it gets 'off' or you will have further
problems, even premature fish deaths. If you keep it
in good condition with regular maintenance you will be
maintaining a steady, healthful environment for your
fish. After all, they cannot move out and go somewhere
else!

Good luck, I'm hoping your rainbowfish will survive
the impact of the cichlids.

Beverly

--- steve <steve01@...> wrote:

> but anyways the moral of this story is i guess just
> take some time
> and notice the swimming habits of your fish and
> notice before water
> changes and after maybe soon you won t need to worry
> about test kits
> either
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25126 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: just got my 4 yellow labs
I have to agree with you Beverly.

When I see them display this behavior I consider it a crisis and that I am
way behind on water changes and filter maintenance. I had this happen two
days ago. I added some Madagascar cichlids to my Madagascar rainbow tank without
taking into consideration the that the tank probably did not have enough
beneficial bacteria to handle the increase in bioload. I usually do not have
this issue as most of my tanks are larger and more stable but this tank is
smaller.

Prior to this I have not had this problem in a year or more.

-Mike

In a message dated 12/27/2007 7:27:14 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
bmpardue@... writes:

I would like to share my view in favor of regular
partial water changes. I do not wait until I see odd
swimming patterns or other difficulties in my fish
before I change their water. If I did, I would be
risking their deaths. When you start to see such
problems often it is too late to reverse the damage. A
partial water change at that point will help, of
course, but it can't undo what has already happened to
cause the fish to swim differently/cause






**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25127 From: pinkvock Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: ugf
Do I need a ugf if i've got a biowheel?
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25130 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
No.... why are you asking?

But if you have and extra UGF filter system sitting around, there's nothing
wrong with extra filtration on the tank. It usually won't hurt as long as
the UGF is powered enough so that you do not end up with a mulm issue under
the bottom plate. Other people are doing reverse UGF's using a power head
to send filtered water under the bottom plate and back up through the
gravel. This won't work well with a planted tank unless you modify things
so the plants are not over the bottom plate.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 5:53 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ugf

Do I need a ugf if i've got a biowheel?


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1198 - Release Date: 12/26/2007
5:26 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25131 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals, punctuation or
paragraphs! But I think I’m being quoted somewhere in there, and I don’t
think you’ve got what I said (or meant anyway) right.



I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only works with
more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they were the
same species you’ve already got. Acei and Labs like to be in groups of 6 or
more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal for
Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn’t recommend that.



For what it’s worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 7:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] ok ok let me try saying it different



or explaining it different the way i do it there was a time when i
did slack off on water changes and lost a couple fish, it would be
about a month and a half of not doing a water change when i noticed
it but now i do it about every 3 weeks i do water changes yes i do
big water changes of somewhere in the 40-50 percent water change but
my water stays good i will definately be doing more water changes now
cause i realize this is probably the biggest load i have ever had on
a tank now that there is 3 adult acei s 4 juvie yellow labs 1
boesemani rainbow and 2 black skirt tetras in a 55 gallon tank and
thinking of some more cichlids like somewhere here suggested with
cichlids to maybe have a few of them to spread the agression maybe 2
or 3 more juvies not sure what i want though i am thinking the
electric blues but can t find juvies around where i live at and adult
size ones are 30 bucks.
brought some of the dip strip tests today and checked it out Nitrate
was less then 20 ppm on the test strips it says safe up to 40 ppm
Nitrite is at 0 while .5 is the caution level and 1.0 is a stress
level, Hardness is in the hard to very hard range between 150 and
300ppm, chlorine level is at 0, ALK is in the 80-120 strips say 120-
180 is ideal range so maybe i am a lil low but it is definately
closer to the 120 range so not that far off, and the pH is somewhere
in the 7.6 7.8 that will be adj. tomorrow to get that up a lil higher.

so sorry if i mislead you all to that thinking i wait till irrattic
swimming behavior that is not the case at all just when i did get
lazy with the water changes for about 6 months at 1 time i noticed it
where i was doing water changes about every month and a half - 2
months now it is every 3 weeks but i know what to look for with my
fish now just incase something crazy happens like i would get a spike
in nitrate or whatever. so yes i made my mistake but with those
mistakes came a learning process and and what to look for and how to
correct those things but heck it seems water changes cure just about
anything
lol i knew that was a confusing post that i posted last time

remember kids do your water changes





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25133 From: William Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
The one inch per gallon only works on small fish. I think that you
can see putting 10 one inch oscars (short term) in a ten gallon tank
but one ten inch oscar in the same tank would be grossly overcrowded.
I like to say to multiply the number is inches long the fish is times
the height of the fish (not including the fins) and that will give
you a better number of gallons that the fish should have.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> yeah sorry about that i know my english teacher would probably kill
> me for my blogging techniques. that is if i was still in high school
> i just ramble and ramble alot.i will try to keep them shorter. but
> yeah your the person i was refering too with the more cichlids. i
> guess i did miss understand you oh well i got you now. i have seen
> tanks where there it has looked like the cichlids were very
> overloaded almost ontop of each other.
> does the rule of thumb work for cichlids the same as other fish 1
> inch per 1 gallon. for adult size fish if that is correct i have 3
> acei which i have read get about 6 inch but think someone on here
> said they will get even 7 inches big so lets just say 7 x3 is 21 on
> just the acei. i think 5 inches on the yellows so xthat by 4 is 20
> now were at 41 and about 4 inches for my rainbow or 5 so now were
> talking about 46 inches of fish and about 1.5 inches for both my
> tetras so now i am up to 49 inches but not expecting the tetras to
> last to long. but for now if i am correct i could really only add 1
> more acei. but that s only if the acei get up to the 7 inches.
right
> or wrong
>
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals,
punctuation
> or
> > paragraphs! But I think I'm being quoted somewhere in there, and
I
> don't
> > think you've got what I said (or meant anyway) right.
> >
> >
> >
> > I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only
> works with
> > more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they
> were the
> > same species you've already got. Acei and Labs like to be in
> groups of 6 or
> > more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal
> for
> > Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn't recommend that.
> >
> >
> >
> > For what it's worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.
> >
> >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25134 From: Christine Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: Hello
Hi Im new here and fairly new to fishkeeping. Visit my group if u want
to, its called Pet Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25135 From: Vanessa Date: 12/27/2007
Subject: New and need advice about water turtle
Hello everyone,

I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any
aquatic life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her
sisters water turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding
out what kind of condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give
this little guy a better life. Right now he is just living in a
tuperware bowl with a rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money
and I know this might get expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns
water turtles and have some suggestions on how to get his home set up,
what types of things I need to buy, and the best place to get them.
Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting you all.

Vanessa
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25136 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
That so-called rule of "1 inch per 1 gallon" does NOT work except for the
smallest of adult sized fish. It strictly does not work for any fish that
gets over 3" as adults, nor does it work for large body mass fish or
aggressive fish like cichlids. I have read about people intentionally
overstocking a cichlid tank which supposedly spreads the aggression so that
no single fish receives too much aggression. While it may work, it also
means you need lots of filtration and lots of PWC's to remove waste and
dilute the pollution that would build up in an overstocked tank.

Here's my blog article that I did a couple of years ago about the so-called
1" rule...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 9:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

yeah sorry about that i know my english teacher would probably kill me for
my blogging techniques. that is if i was still in high school i just ramble
and ramble alot.i will try to keep them shorter. but yeah your the person i
was refering too with the more cichlids. i guess i did miss understand you
oh well i got you now. i have seen tanks where there it has looked like the
cichlids were very overloaded almost ontop of each other.
does the rule of thumb work for cichlids the same as other fish 1 inch per 1
gallon. for adult size fish if that is correct i have 3 acei which i have
read get about 6 inch but think someone on here said they will get even 7
inches big so lets just say 7 x3 is 21 on just the acei. i think 5 inches on
the yellows so xthat by 4 is 20 now were at 41 and about 4 inches for my
rainbow or 5 so now were talking about 46 inches of fish and about 1.5
inches for both my tetras so now i am up to 49 inches but not expecting the
tetras to last to long. but for now if i am correct i could really only add
1 more acei. but that s only if the acei get up to the 7 inches. right or
wrong

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals, punctuation
or
> paragraphs! But I think I'm being quoted somewhere in there, and I
don't
> think you've got what I said (or meant anyway) right.
>
>
>
> I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only
works with
> more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they
were the
> same species you've already got. Acei and Labs like to be in
groups of 6 or
> more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal
for
> Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn't recommend that.
>
>
>
> For what it's worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007
1:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25137 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Welcome to the group. First thing you need to find out is what kind of
turtle it is. One common type is the RES (Red Ear Slider) but there are
many others out there. Do a search for images of the RES and see if that is
what you have. If not, post a picture and we'll try to ID it. Many turtles
can grow to be very large and need large sized tanks to grow to their full
potential and have decent water conditions.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vanessa
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] New and need advice about water turtle

Hello everyone,

I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any aquatic
life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her sisters water
turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding out what kind of
condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give this little guy a
better life. Right now he is just living in a tuperware bowl with a
rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money and I know this might get
expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns water turtles and have some
suggestions on how to get his home set up, what types of things I need to
buy, and the best place to get them.
Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting you all.

Vanessa


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007
1:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25138 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
No the one inch per gallon rule is not used for cichlids, you decide how
many fish can go in a tank by how much territory they need. A common
stocking for a 55G tank would be 3 species with four females and one male of
each. You would have the 6 labs, 6 Acei and then your assorted other fish
would take the place of the 3rd species.



It’s almost MORE dangerous with mbuna to understock because they ALWAYS
chase (mostly within their species). If the dominant fish constantly has
only one or two others to chase, the chasee will become stressed, sicken,
die and possibly infect the tank.



Labs and acei are the most peaceful mbuna, but all mbuna are territorial and
aggressive.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different



yeah sorry about that i know my english teacher would probably kill
me for my blogging techniques. that is if i was still in high school
i just ramble and ramble alot.i will try to keep them shorter. but
yeah your the person i was refering too with the more cichlids. i
guess i did miss understand you oh well i got you now. i have seen
tanks where there it has looked like the cichlids were very
overloaded almost ontop of each other.
does the rule of thumb work for cichlids the same as other fish 1
inch per 1 gallon. for adult size fish if that is correct i have 3
acei which i have read get about 6 inch but think someone on here
said they will get even 7 inches big so lets just say 7 x3 is 21 on
just the acei. i think 5 inches on the yellows so xthat by 4 is 20
now were at 41 and about 4 inches for my rainbow or 5 so now were
talking about 46 inches of fish and about 1.5 inches for both my
tetras so now i am up to 49 inches but not expecting the tetras to
last to long. but for now if i am correct i could really only add 1
more acei. but that s only if the acei get up to the 7 inches. right
or wrong

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals, punctuation
or
> paragraphs! But I think I'm being quoted somewhere in there, and I
don't
> think you've got what I said (or meant anyway) right.
>
>
>
> I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only
works with
> more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they
were the
> same species you've already got. Acei and Labs like to be in
groups of 6 or
> more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal
for
> Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn't recommend that.
>
>
>
> For what it's worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25139 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
That's right. Twice the recommended filtration and weekly 50% water
changes.

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 5:24 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

That so-called rule of "1 inch per 1 gallon" does NOT work except for the
smallest of adult sized fish. It strictly does not work for any fish that
gets over 3" as adults, nor does it work for large body mass fish or
aggressive fish like cichlids. I have read about people intentionally
overstocking a cichlid tank which supposedly spreads the aggression so that
no single fish receives too much aggression. While it may work, it also
means you need lots of filtration and lots of PWC's to remove waste and
dilute the pollution that would build up in an overstocked tank.

Here's my blog article that I did a couple of years ago about the so-called
1" rule...
http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-replace-1-per.
html

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 9:30 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

yeah sorry about that i know my english teacher would probably kill me for
my blogging techniques. that is if i was still in high school i just ramble
and ramble alot.i will try to keep them shorter. but yeah your the person i
was refering too with the more cichlids. i guess i did miss understand you
oh well i got you now. i have seen tanks where there it has looked like the
cichlids were very overloaded almost ontop of each other.
does the rule of thumb work for cichlids the same as other fish 1 inch per 1
gallon. for adult size fish if that is correct i have 3 acei which i have
read get about 6 inch but think someone on here said they will get even 7
inches big so lets just say 7 x3 is 21 on just the acei. i think 5 inches on
the yellows so xthat by 4 is 20 now were at 41 and about 4 inches for my
rainbow or 5 so now were talking about 46 inches of fish and about 1.5
inches for both my tetras so now i am up to 49 inches but not expecting the
tetras to last to long. but for now if i am correct i could really only add
1 more acei. but that s only if the acei get up to the 7 inches. right or
wrong

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals, punctuation
or
> paragraphs! But I think I'm being quoted somewhere in there, and I
don't
> think you've got what I said (or meant anyway) right.
>
>
>
> I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only
works with
> more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they
were the
> same species you've already got. Acei and Labs like to be in
groups of 6 or
> more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal
for
> Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn't recommend that.
>
>
>
> For what it's worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007
1:34 PM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to
the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25141 From: William Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
Put all the filtering in that you can and you will not go wrong
unless the filter "filters out the fish". As long as the water flow
is not too strong for the fish then go with as much as you can.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "steve" <steve01@...> wrote:
>
> filtering my 55 Gallon is an emperor 400, that set up was actually
my
> first saltwater tank before getting my 90 gallon tank and now use
the
> 55 for well cichlids now.
> i would think if the 400 can filter for saltwater it should be good
> for the cichlids. however since some of you seem to have more
> experience with cichlids do you think it would be necessary to add
> more filteration. example i have a penguin 170 that i could easily
> put in along with my 400, the 170 was running my 29 gallon tank
with
> the cichlids before moving them to the 55 gallon i would think the
> emp. 400 is more then enough.
> i actually had a freind of mine the had a 60 or 65 gallon tank that
> he had just a penguin 170 for a cichlid tank now i know that was
> probably under filtered but he didn t have any kinda problems with
> the water at least not that i knew of.
> so anyways does everyone think that the 400 is plenty or should i
> just throw in the 170 also since the rule is there is no such thing
> as over filtering or is there.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> wrote:
> >
> > That's right. Twice the recommended filtration and weekly 50%
water
> > changes.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
> > Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 5:24 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it
different
> >
> > That so-called rule of "1 inch per 1 gallon" does NOT work except
> for the
> > smallest of adult sized fish. It strictly does not work for any
> fish that
> > gets over 3" as adults, nor does it work for large body mass fish
or
> > aggressive fish like cichlids. I have read about people
> intentionally
> > overstocking a cichlid tank which supposedly spreads the
aggression
> so that
> > no single fish receives too much aggression. While it may work,
it
> also
> > means you need lots of filtration and lots of PWC's to remove
waste
> and
> > dilute the pollution that would build up in an overstocked tank.
> >
> > Here's my blog article that I did a couple of years ago about the
> so-called
> > 1" rule...
> > http://goldlenny.blogspot.com/2007/02/new-rules-guidelines-to-
> replace-1-per.
> > html
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 9:30 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
> >
> > yeah sorry about that i know my english teacher would probably
kill
> me for
> > my blogging techniques. that is if i was still in high school i
> just ramble
> > and ramble alot.i will try to keep them shorter. but yeah your
the
> person i
> > was refering too with the more cichlids. i guess i did miss
> understand you
> > oh well i got you now. i have seen tanks where there it has
looked
> like the
> > cichlids were very overloaded almost ontop of each other.
> > does the rule of thumb work for cichlids the same as other fish 1
> inch per 1
> > gallon. for adult size fish if that is correct i have 3 acei
which
> i have
> > read get about 6 inch but think someone on here said they will
get
> even 7
> > inches big so lets just say 7 x3 is 21 on just the acei. i think
5
> inches on
> > the yellows so xthat by 4 is 20 now were at 41 and about 4 inches
> for my
> > rainbow or 5 so now were talking about 46 inches of fish and
about
> 1.5
> > inches for both my tetras so now i am up to 49 inches but not
> expecting the
> > tetras to last to long. but for now if i am correct i could
really
> only add
> > 1 more acei. but that s only if the acei get up to the 7 inches.
> right or
> > wrong
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%
> 40yahoogroups.com> ,
> > Donna Ransome <djransome@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Whoa, your posts are hard to read because no capitals,
punctuation
> > or
> > > paragraphs! But I think I'm being quoted somewhere in there,
and I
> > don't
> > > think you've got what I said (or meant anyway) right.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I suggested more cichlids to spread aggression. But that only
> > works with
> > > more of the SAME SPECIES. I would not add cichlids unless they
> > were the
> > > same species you've already got. Acei and Labs like to be in
> > groups of 6 or
> > > more, I think I suggested adding Acei. I think a 55G is marginal
> > for
> > > Electric Blues (if you mean Fryeri) and I wouldn't recommend
that.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > For what it's worth, I do 50% water changes weekly.
> > >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date:
> 12/27/2007
> > 1:34 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying,
> thanks.
> > .´¯`..¸¸.><((((º>..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸><((((º> ¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...><
> ((((º>
> > PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
> important to
> > the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY
> the SUBJECT
> > LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> > <º((((><..´¯`..¸¸..´¯`..¸<º((((><¸..´¯`..¸. , ..´¯`...<º
> ((((><.´¯`..¸¸.
> > We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25142 From: pinkvock Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
my air pump broke on mine and I thought that if it's not needed I
would just take it out.



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> No.... why are you asking?
>
> But if you have and extra UGF filter system sitting around, there's
nothing
> wrong with extra filtration on the tank. It usually won't hurt as
long as
> the UGF is powered enough so that you do not end up with a mulm
issue under
> the bottom plate. Other people are doing reverse UGF's using a
power head
> to send filtered water under the bottom plate and back up through
the
> gravel. This won't work well with a planted tank unless you modify
things
> so the plants are not over the bottom plate.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 5:53 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ugf
>
> Do I need a ugf if i've got a biowheel?
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.9/1198 - Release Date:
12/26/2007
> 5:26 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25143 From: Kevin Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
I am new to the group but not so new to freshwater aquariums.

Growing up we always had one, of course my mother cared for it for
the most part though. It was always real neat to look at and was
enjoyed by the entire family.

I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon tank along with hood
and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for filter system, air
pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything set up back in
November and added drift wood and some beautiful stones (both large
and small) that I collected from a local lake. Water has been added
and is checked daily for balance. Everything seems fine.

I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters a week ago and they
are doing quite well. I did notice that one tetra looked a little
puny and did develope little white cyst. I came to the conclusion
that it was ick and immediately treated it as such. It has been four
days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great (no longer has the
cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of the treating of the
sick tetra was going on I watched all the other fish very closely
and they have all done quite well showing no signs at all of any
problem.

I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the closest pet store to
me. Their fish just do not look good. I have even seen some in their
tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and sickly looking)and
there have been a couple of occasions that dead fish are floating
around in their tanks. I have told the lady that works in that
department and she treats me like I do not know what I am talking
about. Due to her attitude and the condition of the fish there I am
quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish at that location. I
live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I can find other fish
stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any of the members here
have done much online purchasing? If so, could you guys point me in
the right direction online for the best suppliers? A supplier in
Mississippi or the surrounding states would be wonderful. And of
course, any advice for the novice freshwater fish lover would be
great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.

A little about myself :

My name is Kevin and I live in Horn Lake, MS. I am 34 years old. I
am a home owner with plenty of room for a wide range of tanks and
would like to venture into different sizes once I am comfortable
with the one I already have. My interest are in local fish. I would
really like to try raising some Bass, Crappie, Catfish, Sunfish
(Breem), Crawfish, frshwater shrimp, frshwater clams and mussles.
This list could go on forever. LOL...

This is a very informative group and look forward to making a
contribution one day myself.

Thanks for your time!

Kevin
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25144 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: ugf
Since your UGF was only air powered, be careful taking it out as there could
be serious mulm build-up under the bottom plate which could also house
anaerobic bacteria colonies or release toxic substances into the water when
disassembling it. When was the last time you cleaned under the bottom
plate?

Go to my blog, in my sig, and read my article on Filter Maintenance and
Cleaning and I have a section in there on UGF's with some links to good
sites on UGF maintenance. It would be good to read over them before
breaking down the tank to remove the UGF. It would be good to put the fish
in a holding tank while you do the breakdown also but move the bio-wheel HOB
onto the holding tank to keep it "clean" from any of the possible toxins
also and that will also keep it cycled with the ammonia from the fish.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of pinkvock
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 9:18 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ugf


my air pump broke on mine and I thought that if it's not needed I would just
take it out.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> No.... why are you asking?
>
> But if you have and extra UGF filter system sitting around, there's
nothing
> wrong with extra filtration on the tank. It usually won't hurt as
long as
> the UGF is powered enough so that you do not end up with a mulm
issue under
> the bottom plate. Other people are doing reverse UGF's using a
power head
> to send filtered water under the bottom plate and back up through
the
> gravel. This won't work well with a planted tank unless you modify
things
> so the plants are not over the bottom plate.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of pinkvock
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 5:53 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] ugf
>
> Do I need a ugf if i've got a biowheel?

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007
1:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25145 From: Melissa Walker Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
I once had a large mouth bass tank. We went fishing
one summer, and somehow my dads friend talked us into
setting up our tank as such. We had a 300 gallon lake
setup. We went and got a ton of anachris and heavily
planted one side, leaving small open trails in the
anachris forest for thm to easily swim through, and a
few dwarf lilly pads, as most species of lake fish are
a bit skittish. We used a sand substrate (childrens
play sand), and kept the temps fairly low as lakes do
not tend to get real warm, we had it set at 74
degrees. And algae eaters....lol they never lasted
long. We kept 3 in there for about 4 years, then we
set them free as they started out at 8", and when
released they were 14" long. Lake and river fish can
get rather large, even sunfish and blue gill can get
over 8" if well maintained.

As for pet stores, there are some good, then there are
some bad. Whats funny is when youwalk into a bad when
and they thinkthey know what they are doing! Now our
petcos in Toledo, their fish are horrible, but the
ones down in BG have nice fish. Then with my store, we
have great fish, as does one of out other 3 locations,
the other 3 have idiots there who sell terrible fish.
You have to take the good with the bad. And ick is
stress related, so it is far better to get the fish a
few days after they arrive at the pet store instead of
the day of, this way they get time to get settled in,
then you can see if illness is going to peek out.

I have bought and sold fish online, except the people
I had bought from were cichlid breeders. I know the
people at Angelfish Express, they have FANTASTIC
angelfish. I would order 40-60 of them at a time, and
I would be lucky if I even lost 1 in the whole
shipment. They are great people, so if you are
interested in angels, I would look into them.
http://www.freshwaterangelfish.com/store.asp?pid=15388&catid=19799

Rocky Mountain Discus have great fish, I personally
never used them, but I have a good friend who has
gotten fish through them and they are breathtaking.
http://www.rockymountaindiscus.com/

~Melissa

--- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:

> I am new to the group but not so new to freshwater
> aquariums.
>
> Growing up we always had one, of course my mother
> cared for it for
> the most part though. It was always real neat to
> look at and was
> enjoyed by the entire family.
>
> I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon tank
> along with hood
> and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for
> filter system, air
> pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything set
> up back in
> November and added drift wood and some beautiful
> stones (both large
> and small) that I collected from a local lake. Water
> has been added
> and is checked daily for balance. Everything seems
> fine.
>
> I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters a
> week ago and they
> are doing quite well. I did notice that one tetra
> looked a little
> puny and did develope little white cyst. I came to
> the conclusion
> that it was ick and immediately treated it as such.
> It has been four
> days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great (no
> longer has the
> cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of the
> treating of the
> sick tetra was going on I watched all the other fish
> very closely
> and they have all done quite well showing no signs
> at all of any
> problem.
>
> I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the
> closest pet store to
> me. Their fish just do not look good. I have even
> seen some in their
> tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and
> sickly looking)and
> there have been a couple of occasions that dead fish
> are floating
> around in their tanks. I have told the lady that
> works in that
> department and she treats me like I do not know what
> I am talking
> about. Due to her attitude and the condition of the
> fish there I am
> quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish at
> that location. I
> live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I can
> find other fish
> stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any of
> the members here
> have done much online purchasing? If so, could you
> guys point me in
> the right direction online for the best suppliers? A
> supplier in
> Mississippi or the surrounding states would be
> wonderful. And of
> course, any advice for the novice freshwater fish
> lover would be
> great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.
>
> A little about myself :
>
> My name is Kevin and I live in Horn Lake, MS. I am
> 34 years old. I
> am a home owner with plenty of room for a wide range
> of tanks and
> would like to venture into different sizes once I am
> comfortable
> with the one I already have. My interest are in
> local fish. I would
> really like to try raising some Bass, Crappie,
> Catfish, Sunfish
> (Breem), Crawfish, frshwater shrimp, frshwater clams
> and mussles.
> This list could go on forever. LOL...
>
> This is a very informative group and look forward to
> making a
> contribution one day myself.
>
> Thanks for your time!
>
> Kevin
>
>



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25147 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
Hi Christine,
Welcome. I just joined your group(I think. There were a couple). I'm a big freshwater shrimp fan.
Kate

Christine <disenchantedfairy@...> wrote:
Hi Im new here and fairly new to fishkeeping. Visit my group if u want
to, its called Pet Shrimp






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25148 From: Carmen H Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
I just joined petshrimp, too. Hope you didn't accidentally join
petshrimptank, looks like that one's been invaded by spammers :-/
Carmen

> Hi Christine,
> Welcome. I just joined your group(I think. There were a couple). I'm a big
> freshwater shrimp fan.
> Kate
>
> Christine <disenchantedfairy@...> wrote:
> Hi Im new here and fairly new to fishkeeping. Visit my group if u want
> to, its called Pet Shrimp
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25149 From: Brian Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: HI getting a tank agin
I am setting up a tank once agin it has been a couple of years, I cant
seam to rember how many watts of heater to galons of tank, or how much
lighting I need. I will be putting some plants and fresh water fish in
the tank.

Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25150 From: Carmen H Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: HI getting a tank agin
Very basic rule of thumb is 5w per gallon for heat, and min 2w per
gallon for light. Of course, there are a lot of variables. For heat,
variables might include the number of degrees above room temp you want
the tank to be and the temperature requirements of the fish you're
planning. For light, the main variables will be the types of plants
you want. I'm sure others will follow with more in-depth info...
Carmen



> I am setting up a tank once agin it has been a couple of years, I cant
> seam to rember how many watts of heater to galons of tank, or how much
> lighting I need. I will be putting some plants and fresh water fish in
> the tank.
>
> Thanks
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25151 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: HI getting a tank agin
The heating and lighting answers are both the same... it depends...

Heating depends on how much warmer you are trying to make the water over the
room temperature but the general rule is between 2.5 and 5.0 watts per
gallon. If your room temp is 72F and you are only bringing the water to
76F, then you would only need the lower level of heating. If your room temp
is 68F and you are bringing the water up to 80F, then you would need the
higher level of heating.. or more.

For safety purposes, instead of going with one full sized heater, go with
two 1/2 sized heaters. For example, if you are going with the 5.0 watts per
gallon and you have a 60G tank, then you would need a total of 300 watts of
heater, so go with two 150 watt heaters. Set them both at the same
preferred heat level and you may need to tweak one of the heaters since
their thermostats may not be perfect. This provides for redundancy in the
event of one of the heaters failing but also provides a safety measure in
the event one of the heaters ever fails stuck in the on position. A single
150 watt heater stuck in the on position will heat up the 60G's of water
plenty but will not bring it too high as to cook your fish, whereas a 300
watt heater might.

For lighting, it depends on the depth of the tank, shallower tanks (i.e. 12"
deep) need less lighting where deeper tanks (i.e. 24" deep) need much more
lighting. It also depends on the plants you are going to go with. You
would usually start with at least 1 watt per gallon and go up to 3 watts per
gallon in a heavily planted tank with a CO2 system.

http://www.plantgeek.net/plantguide.php has searchable pages broken down by
various categories, one of which is "Light Requirements" and another is
"Difficulty". I also recommend going with very easy and easy plants which
need less maintenance and need less lighting to do well. Click the
"Difficulty" button for links to the very easy and easy plants. There are
90 species listed under those two categories. Print out those pages and
start looking around at your LFS and chain stores to see what's available
and start planning things.

If you will be planting the tank from the start, you do not have to worry as
much about "cycling" the tank but if you will be starting out with fish
only, then you should "fishless cycle" the tank first to make it safe for
the fish. Go to my blog and click on the Fishless Cycling link on the right
side and read up on this low cost way to make your tank safe without using
all of the so-called cycling chemicals that the stores will try to sell you.
If you do want to cycle the tank instantly, then I only recommend going with
Bio-Spira which is available online and at some LFS but it has to be kept
refrigerated to keep the nitrifying bacteria in hibernation until ready to
be used.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Friday, December 28, 2007 9:20 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] HI getting a tank agin

I am setting up a tank once agin it has been a couple of years, I cant seam
to rember how many watts of heater to galons of tank, or how much lighting I
need. I will be putting some plants and fresh water fish in the tank.

Thanks



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date: 12/27/2007
1:34 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25152 From: Vanessa Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Lenny,

Thank you for the welcome. I havn't picked up the turtle yet so still
don't know what it looks like. I will be getting him in the morning
and doing to the Reptile Specialists to get his habitat. I think I
should get a 20 gallon tank, what do you think? His shell is suppose
to be the size of my palm, so he isn't too big. I just want to make
sure I give him the best life I can. He is living in a tuperware bowl
right now and I think that is sad. I will post a picture tomorrow.

Thanks for everything,
Vanessa

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Welcome to the group. First thing you need to find out is what kind of
> turtle it is. One common type is the RES (Red Ear Slider) but there are
> many others out there. Do a search for images of the RES and see if
that is
> what you have. If not, post a picture and we'll try to ID it. Many
turtles
> can grow to be very large and need large sized tanks to grow to
their full
> potential and have decent water conditions.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Vanessa
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New and need advice about water turtle
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any aquatic
> life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her sisters water
> turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding out what kind of
> condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give this little guy a
> better life. Right now he is just living in a tuperware bowl with a
> rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money and I know this might get
> expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns water turtles and have some
> suggestions on how to get his home set up, what types of things I
need to
> buy, and the best place to get them.
> Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting
you all.
>
> Vanessa
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date:
12/27/2007
> 1:34 PM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25153 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/28/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
I wouldn't buy the tank until after you know what species he is. You should
also look on the various free or low cost places for a used tank and get the
largest you can afford and fit in your home. Most turtles will need a BIG
tank and you will find yourself doing frequent PWC's on a small tank where
you can do weekly PWC's on a larger tank.

Most turtles are very messy also so they need lots and lots of filtration.
Also, most turtles need some kind of land structure to "sun" themselves on
so you can't fill the tank completely so a 100G tank might only have 50-70G
of water. A 55G tank which is 48" x 12" (footprint) might only hold 30G of
water after adding a land structure and not filling it to the top. I would
suspect that would be the smallest tank I would try, a 55G, for a turtle of
any species but even that may not be big enough for many species.

Since RES' are very common, here's a few links I have in my favorites folder
for them and other turtles.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/sliderfaqs.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshellrotfaq.htm
http://redearslider.com/forum/index.php
http://www.happyturtlespub.org/smf/index.php
http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/turtles/ (scroll down for care sheets on
various species)
http://www.sdturtle.org/WATER%20TURTLE%20CARE%20SHEET.htm

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Vanessa
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 12:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New and need advice about water turtle

Lenny,

Thank you for the welcome. I havn't picked up the turtle yet so still don't
know what it looks like. I will be getting him in the morning and doing to
the Reptile Specialists to get his habitat. I think I should get a 20 gallon
tank, what do you think? His shell is suppose to be the size of my palm, so
he isn't too big. I just want to make sure I give him the best life I can.
He is living in a tuperware bowl right now and I think that is sad. I will
post a picture tomorrow.

Thanks for everything,
Vanessa

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Welcome to the group. First thing you need to find out is what kind of
> turtle it is. One common type is the RES (Red Ear Slider) but there
> are many others out there. Do a search for images of the RES and see
> if
that is
> what you have. If not, post a picture and we'll try to ID it. Many
turtles
> can grow to be very large and need large sized tanks to grow to
their full
> potential and have decent water conditions.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> <http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Vanessa
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New and need advice about water turtle
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any
> aquatic life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her
> sisters water turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding
> out what kind of condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give
> this little guy a better life. Right now he is just living in a
> tuperware bowl with a rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money
> and I know this might get expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns
> water turtles and have some suggestions on how to get his home set up,
> what types of things I
need to
> buy, and the best place to get them.
> Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting
you all.
>
> Vanessa
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1201 - Release Date: 12/28/2007
11:51 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25154 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
I am not a turtle person, but (there is always that but, isn't there?), my thought is that you should look for the type of tank called a breeder tank. That tank is not as deep as a "normal" tank, and makes the gallonage by being longer and/or wider than the "normal" tank of the same size.

I know you are a bit rushed right now, but when you have some time take a look at http://www.glasscages.com . They can customize a tank size of your choice for keeping turtles, for a price, of course <g>. On their Turtle Tank page, they show a 180 gallon tank with some of the customizations they offer. They make some good tanks, and have a good reputation. If you check out their web site, they mention the various shows they will be at to deliver pre-ordered tanks. At some shows they will be selling an assortment of tanks to all comers as well, but experience has taught me that you need to act quickly, if you have not pre-ordered. You would, however, need to pre-order any tank with customization.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Vanessa
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 1:38 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New and need advice about water turtle

Lenny,

Thank you for the welcome. I havn't picked up the turtle yet so still
don't know what it looks like. I will be getting him in the morning
and doing to the Reptile Specialists to get his habitat. I think I
should get a 20 gallon tank, what do you think? His shell is suppose
to be the size of my palm, so he isn't too big. I just want to make
sure I give him the best life I can. He is living in a tuperware bowl
right now and I think that is sad. I will post a picture tomorrow.

Thanks for everything,
Vanessa

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> Welcome to the group. First thing you need to find out is what kind of
> turtle it is. One common type is the RES (Red Ear Slider) but there are
> many others out there. Do a search for images of the RES and see if
that is
> what you have. If not, post a picture and we'll try to ID it. Many
turtles
> can grow to be very large and need large sized tanks to grow to
their full
> potential and have decent water conditions.
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Vanessa
> Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:26 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] New and need advice about water turtle
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any aquatic
> life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her sisters water
> turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding out what kind of
> condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give this little guy a
> better life. Right now he is just living in a tuperware bowl with a
> rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money and I know this might get
> expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns water turtles and have some
> suggestions on how to get his home set up, what types of things I
need to
> buy, and the best place to get them.
> Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting
you all.
>
> Vanessa
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date:
12/27/2007
> 1:34 PM
>




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
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PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
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We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25155 From: Swatek-Rice, Traci Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: changing flters...
Hi Everyone,

I was wondering if someone could help me with another question.
(I am going on list this time Lenny:) I have recently gotten a
fluval 305 canister filter that I would like to use on my 55 gallon
established tank. I have two internal filters rated for up to 60
gallons on there and the UGF. I want to take out one of the
internal filters and use the fluval. Lenny, this is the tank you
helped me with a couple of weeks ago on the mini-cycle it
went thru. Can I do this without causing another mini-cycle?
Then I want to use the internal one and a penguin 350 on
another 55 gallon tank that I will be seeding from my smaller
tanks that I'll be breaking down. Does this sound like it will
work? Thanks for the help, in advance...


Regards,
Traci



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25156 From: Kate Conrow Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hello
Nope, and glad I didn't then.

Carmen H <eskielists@...> wrote: I just joined petshrimp, too. Hope you didn't accidentally join
petshrimptank, looks like that one's been invaded by spammers :-/
Carmen

> Hi Christine,
> Welcome. I just joined your group(I think. There were a couple). I'm a big
> freshwater shrimp fan.
> Kate
>
> Christine <disenchantedfairy@...> wrote:
> Hi Im new here and fairly new to fishkeeping. Visit my group if u want
> to, its called Pet Shrimp





---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25157 From: Kevin Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Hey Melissa!

Thanks so much for the advice!

I am actually interested in Angels also but was afraid that if I
added local fish they may make short disposal of an Angel.

I'll check out the links.

My uncle works for a local wildlife reserve so I do have good access
to wild local varieties. I have even thought about adding some small
alligator gar fish. My poor tetras won't last long if I do that
though.

Thanks again for your help. My birthday is coming up and I am
requesting a 100+ gallon tank from my parents. LOL...we'll see.

;-)

You guys have a great weekend!

Kevin

>
> I once had a large mouth bass tank. We went fishing
> one summer, and somehow my dads friend talked us into
> setting up our tank as such. We had a 300 gallon lake
> setup. We went and got a ton of anachris and heavily
> planted one side, leaving small open trails in the
> anachris forest for thm to easily swim through, and a
> few dwarf lilly pads, as most species of lake fish are
> a bit skittish. We used a sand substrate (childrens
> play sand), and kept the temps fairly low as lakes do
> not tend to get real warm, we had it set at 74
> degrees. And algae eaters....lol they never lasted
> long. We kept 3 in there for about 4 years, then we
> set them free as they started out at 8", and when
> released they were 14" long. Lake and river fish can
> get rather large, even sunfish and blue gill can get
> over 8" if well maintained.
>
> As for pet stores, there are some good, then there are
> some bad. Whats funny is when youwalk into a bad when
> and they thinkthey know what they are doing! Now our
> petcos in Toledo, their fish are horrible, but the
> ones down in BG have nice fish. Then with my store, we
> have great fish, as does one of out other 3 locations,
> the other 3 have idiots there who sell terrible fish.
> You have to take the good with the bad. And ick is
> stress related, so it is far better to get the fish a
> few days after they arrive at the pet store instead of
> the day of, this way they get time to get settled in,
> then you can see if illness is going to peek out.
>
> I have bought and sold fish online, except the people
> I had bought from were cichlid breeders. I know the
> people at Angelfish Express, they have FANTASTIC
> angelfish. I would order 40-60 of them at a time, and
> I would be lucky if I even lost 1 in the whole
> shipment. They are great people, so if you are
> interested in angels, I would look into them.
> http://www.freshwaterangelfish.com/store.asp?pid=15388&catid=19799
>
> Rocky Mountain Discus have great fish, I personally
> never used them, but I have a good friend who has
> gotten fish through them and they are breathtaking.
> http://www.rockymountaindiscus.com/
>
> ~Melissa
>
> --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:
>
> > I am new to the group but not so new to freshwater
> > aquariums.
> >
> > Growing up we always had one, of course my mother
> > cared for it for
> > the most part though. It was always real neat to
> > look at and was
> > enjoyed by the entire family.
> >
> > I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon tank
> > along with hood
> > and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for
> > filter system, air
> > pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything set
> > up back in
> > November and added drift wood and some beautiful
> > stones (both large
> > and small) that I collected from a local lake. Water
> > has been added
> > and is checked daily for balance. Everything seems
> > fine.
> >
> > I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters a
> > week ago and they
> > are doing quite well. I did notice that one tetra
> > looked a little
> > puny and did develope little white cyst. I came to
> > the conclusion
> > that it was ick and immediately treated it as such.
> > It has been four
> > days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great (no
> > longer has the
> > cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of the
> > treating of the
> > sick tetra was going on I watched all the other fish
> > very closely
> > and they have all done quite well showing no signs
> > at all of any
> > problem.
> >
> > I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the
> > closest pet store to
> > me. Their fish just do not look good. I have even
> > seen some in their
> > tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and
> > sickly looking)and
> > there have been a couple of occasions that dead fish
> > are floating
> > around in their tanks. I have told the lady that
> > works in that
> > department and she treats me like I do not know what
> > I am talking
> > about. Due to her attitude and the condition of the
> > fish there I am
> > quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish at
> > that location. I
> > live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I can
> > find other fish
> > stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any of
> > the members here
> > have done much online purchasing? If so, could you
> > guys point me in
> > the right direction online for the best suppliers? A
> > supplier in
> > Mississippi or the surrounding states would be
> > wonderful. And of
> > course, any advice for the novice freshwater fish
> > lover would be
> > great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.
> >
> > A little about myself :
> >
> > My name is Kevin and I live in Horn Lake, MS. I am
> > 34 years old. I
> > am a home owner with plenty of room for a wide range
> > of tanks and
> > would like to venture into different sizes once I am
> > comfortable
> > with the one I already have. My interest are in
> > local fish. I would
> > really like to try raising some Bass, Crappie,
> > Catfish, Sunfish
> > (Breem), Crawfish, frshwater shrimp, frshwater clams
> > and mussles.
> > This list could go on forever. LOL...
> >
> > This is a very informative group and look forward to
> > making a
> > contribution one day myself.
> >
> > Thanks for your time!
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25158 From: joe t Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles here.
Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water changes.
Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your room mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh ventilation?
I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty or insufficient to the fish to breathe.
I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.

joe t


---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25159 From: hamrad45 Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Platys: Growth rate
I have some Platys fry and was wondering what the growth rate would
be. I know it will vary a lot depending on a lot of factor but was
just looing for some relative idea. I will need to setup another
aquarium but how soon.

Thanks for your time,

hsmrad
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25160 From: Melissa Walker Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
well I wouldnt try mixing tropical fish in with
lake/river fish. For one the temps are compleatly
different, Lake/river fish can do fine at room temps,
angels prefer to be at 78 degrees or higher, we keep
them happily at 80 degrees at work. And lake/river
fish woud quickly take the angel fish down, their
whispery fins look pretty tastey to other fish. Then
there is the possible parasite thin, wild caught fish
always run a higher chance of having "cooties" than
well bred and maintained tropical fish. So I would
either consider tropical, or lake/river setup, I
wouldnt try to push the two together in one unit. You
could try your hands at one of the setups and see how
you like caring for fish again before setting up
several tanks.

And with that note, alot of people think angelfish are
hard to care for, they are extreamly easy to care for,
just remember babies need to eat several times a day.
They are like the skinny people we all hate that can
eat anything they want all day long and stay
skinny....wish I could do that. I learned this from
Angelfish Express, not that I had a diet off issue, it
was something they just really stressed upon the
store, to keep them nice and healthy, 10% water change
weekly and feed 3 times a day. I think getting from
good stock and caring for them correctly kept our
death numbers very low compaired when we were getting
from Fl. (Angelfish Express is from the Cleveland
area)

We live, then learn, then get depends :P

:D
~Melissa

--- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:

> Hey Melissa!
>
> Thanks so much for the advice!
>
> I am actually interested in Angels also but was
> afraid that if I
> added local fish they may make short disposal of an
> Angel.
>
> I'll check out the links.
>
> My uncle works for a local wildlife reserve so I do
> have good access
> to wild local varieties. I have even thought about
> adding some small
> alligator gar fish. My poor tetras won't last long
> if I do that
> though.
>
> Thanks again for your help. My birthday is coming up
> and I am
> requesting a 100+ gallon tank from my parents.
> LOL...we'll see.
>
> ;-)
>
> You guys have a great weekend!
>
> Kevin
>
> >
> > I once had a large mouth bass tank. We went
> fishing
> > one summer, and somehow my dads friend talked us
> into
> > setting up our tank as such. We had a 300 gallon
> lake
> > setup. We went and got a ton of anachris and
> heavily
> > planted one side, leaving small open trails in the
> > anachris forest for thm to easily swim through,
> and a
> > few dwarf lilly pads, as most species of lake fish
> are
> > a bit skittish. We used a sand substrate
> (childrens
> > play sand), and kept the temps fairly low as lakes
> do
> > not tend to get real warm, we had it set at 74
> > degrees. And algae eaters....lol they never lasted
> > long. We kept 3 in there for about 4 years, then
> we
> > set them free as they started out at 8", and when
> > released they were 14" long. Lake and river fish
> can
> > get rather large, even sunfish and blue gill can
> get
> > over 8" if well maintained.
> >
> > As for pet stores, there are some good, then there
> are
> > some bad. Whats funny is when youwalk into a bad
> when
> > and they thinkthey know what they are doing! Now
> our
> > petcos in Toledo, their fish are horrible, but the
> > ones down in BG have nice fish. Then with my
> store, we
> > have great fish, as does one of out other 3
> locations,
> > the other 3 have idiots there who sell terrible
> fish.
> > You have to take the good with the bad. And ick is
> > stress related, so it is far better to get the
> fish a
> > few days after they arrive at the pet store
> instead of
> > the day of, this way they get time to get settled
> in,
> > then you can see if illness is going to peek out.
> >
> > I have bought and sold fish online, except the
> people
> > I had bought from were cichlid breeders. I know
> the
> > people at Angelfish Express, they have FANTASTIC
> > angelfish. I would order 40-60 of them at a time,
> and
> > I would be lucky if I even lost 1 in the whole
> > shipment. They are great people, so if you are
> > interested in angels, I would look into them.
> >
>
http://www.freshwaterangelfish.com/store.asp?pid=15388&catid=19799
> >
> > Rocky Mountain Discus have great fish, I
> personally
> > never used them, but I have a good friend who has
> > gotten fish through them and they are
> breathtaking.
> > http://www.rockymountaindiscus.com/
> >
> > ~Melissa
> >
> > --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:
> >
> > > I am new to the group but not so new to
> freshwater
> > > aquariums.
> > >
> > > Growing up we always had one, of course my
> mother
> > > cared for it for
> > > the most part though. It was always real neat to
> > > look at and was
> > > enjoyed by the entire family.
> > >
> > > I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon
> tank
> > > along with hood
> > > and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for
> > > filter system, air
> > > pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything
> set
> > > up back in
> > > November and added drift wood and some beautiful
> > > stones (both large
> > > and small) that I collected from a local lake.
> Water
> > > has been added
> > > and is checked daily for balance. Everything
> seems
> > > fine.
> > >
> > > I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters
> a
> > > week ago and they
> > > are doing quite well. I did notice that one
> tetra
> > > looked a little
> > > puny and did develope little white cyst. I came
> to
> > > the conclusion
> > > that it was ick and immediately treated it as
> such.
> > > It has been four
> > > days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great
> (no
> > > longer has the
> > > cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of
> the
> > > treating of the
> > > sick tetra was going on I watched all the other
> fish
> > > very closely
> > > and they have all done quite well showing no
> signs
> > > at all of any
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the
> > > closest pet store to
> > > me. Their fish just do not look good. I have
> even
> > > seen some in their
> > > tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and
> > > sickly looking)and
> > > there have been a couple of occasions that dead
> fish
> > > are floating
> > > around in their tanks. I have told the lady that
> > > works in that
> > > department and she treats me like I do not know
> what
> > > I am talking
> > > about. Due to her attitude and the condition of
> the
> > > fish there I am
> > > quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish
> at
> > > that location. I
> > > live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I
> can
> > > find other fish
> > > stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any
> of
> > > the members here
> > > have done much online purchasing? If so, could
> you
> > > guys point me in
> > > the right direction online for the best
> suppliers? A
> > > supplier in
> > > Mississippi or the surrounding states would be
> > > wonderful. And of
> > > course, any advice for the novice freshwater
> fish
> > > lover would be
> > > great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.
> > >
> > > A little about myself :
> > >
>
=== message truncated ===



____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25161 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: changing flters...
Just take the filter media out of the internal filter you are removing and
put that filter media in with the filter media of the canister filter. This
way, you will be transferring the bulk of any nitrifying bacteria that are
currently living on the filter media of the internal filter. If you can't
use the filter media from the internal filter in the canister, then you will
have to watch out for a mini-cycle and do PWC's as needed. You could also
squeeze some of the juice from the dirty filter media into the new filter
media in the canister filter and that will seed the new filter.

The good thing is that you will at least have one fully cycled filter still
running on the tank so you shouldn't have much of a mini-cycle, if any.
From all I've read, the nitrifying bacteria are capable of doubling their
colony size every 24-48 hours so your mini-cycle shouldn't last more than a
day or two.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Swatek-Rice, Traci
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:51 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] changing flters...

Hi Everyone,

I was wondering if someone could help me with another question.
(I am going on list this time Lenny:) I have recently gotten a fluval 305
canister filter that I would like to use on my 55 gallon established tank. I
have two internal filters rated for up to 60 gallons on there and the UGF. I
want to take out one of the internal filters and use the fluval. Lenny, this
is the tank you helped me with a couple of weeks ago on the mini-cycle it
went thru. Can I do this without causing another mini-cycle?
Then I want to use the internal one and a penguin 350 on another 55 gallon
tank that I will be seeding from my smaller tanks that I'll be breaking
down. Does this sound like it will work? Thanks for the help, in advance...


Regards,
Traci


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1201 - Release Date: 12/28/2007
11:51 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25162 From: Vanessa Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: New and need advice about water turtle
Steve,

Thank you for the information. I will check out the site tonight. I
already went andbought a 20 gallon tank today since I picked up the
turtle and he needed a place right away.

Vanessa

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Szabo" <steve@...> wrote:
>
> I am not a turtle person, but (there is always that but, isn't
there?), my thought is that you should look for the type of tank
called a breeder tank. That tank is not as deep as a "normal" tank,
and makes the gallonage by being longer and/or wider than the "normal"
tank of the same size.
>
> I know you are a bit rushed right now, but when you have some time
take a look at http://www.glasscages.com . They can customize a tank
size of your choice for keeping turtles, for a price, of course <g>.
On their Turtle Tank page, they show a 180 gallon tank with some of
the customizations they offer. They make some good tanks, and have a
good reputation. If you check out their web site, they mention the
various shows they will be at to deliver pre-ordered tanks. At some
shows they will be selling an assortment of tanks to all comers as
well, but experience has taught me that you need to act quickly, if
you have not pre-ordered. You would, however, need to pre-order any
tank with customization.
>
> \\Steve//
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Vanessa
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 1:38 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: New and need advice about water turtle
>
> Lenny,
>
> Thank you for the welcome. I havn't picked up the turtle yet so still
> don't know what it looks like. I will be getting him in the morning
> and doing to the Reptile Specialists to get his habitat. I think I
> should get a 20 gallon tank, what do you think? His shell is suppose
> to be the size of my palm, so he isn't too big. I just want to make
> sure I give him the best life I can. He is living in a tuperware bowl
> right now and I think that is sad. I will post a picture tomorrow.
>
> Thanks for everything,
> Vanessa
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > Welcome to the group. First thing you need to find out is what
kind of
> > turtle it is. One common type is the RES (Red Ear Slider) but
there are
> > many others out there. Do a search for images of the RES and see if
> that is
> > what you have. If not, post a picture and we'll try to ID it. Many
> turtles
> > can grow to be very large and need large sized tanks to grow to
> their full
> > potential and have decent water conditions.
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of Vanessa
> > Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 10:26 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] New and need advice about water turtle
> >
> > Hello everyone,
> >
> > I hope I can post about turtles here. It said you talk about any
aquatic
> > life. I just had a friend ask me tonight if I wanted her sisters water
> > turtle. I really think they are cool and after finding out what
kind of
> > condition he is living in I feel bad and want to give this little
guy a
> > better life. Right now he is just living in a tuperware bowl with a
> > rock...how sad :( I do not have alot of money and I know this
might get
> > expensive. I was wondering if anyone owns water turtles and have some
> > suggestions on how to get his home set up, what types of things I
> need to
> > buy, and the best place to get them.
> > Thank you for you advice in advance and I look forward to meeting
> you all.
> >
> > Vanessa
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1200 - Release Date:
> 12/27/2007
> > 1:34 PM
> >
>
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT
important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message
MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25164 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
OK... just to clear up something since there are several thousand members in
the group. The "beneficial bacteria", namely the nitrifying bacteria do not
really live in the water column. They attach to surface areas of the tank
and gravel but mostly they live in the filter media. They are microscopic
and millions of them live in a filter pad or sponge and that is where the
majority of the nitrogen cycle takes place which is why it's so important to
do proper filter maintenance but NOT to change out the filter pads or over
clean them as this can put your tank into a mini-cycle.

If someone did do the plumbing to have a constant inflow of fresh dechlored
water, like from a natural spring or other fresh water source and the old
water would go down the drain or back into a stream or lake or something
like that, there actually would be very little need for filtration or
nitrifying bacteria since all of the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/hormones/etc.
would all be flushed out of the tank on an hourly or several hour basis. As
long as the pH and temperature of the incoming water was consistent with the
water the fish are acclimated to, this would be the best case scenario for
our fish. It's like a freshwater stream that is constantly supplied with
sparkling clear fresh mountain stream water, compared to a stagnant pond
(more like our tanks).

The filter, whether a bio-wheel or any other kind of filter, does not
actually add O2 to the water. O2 is added to the water via surface
agitation. Of course, any HOB filter that has a waterfall causing a splash
back into the tank will also cause good surface agitation which will allow
CO2, nitrogenous gases and other nasties to outgas out of the tank and O2
and other "fresh" air to in gas into the water. This is why a tall tank
with limited surface area will have a lower O2 level compared to a wide tank
with lots of surface area.

Now, comparing our tanks to a bathroom is more like it. That is why we need
to do frequent and regular PWC's, gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance...
to remove the fish waste from the closed system since we don't have a
constant supply of sparkling clean fresh water like a mountain stream.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in some sense
i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is plenty maybe not for the
cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it and of
course you would want the air changed all the time if you were trapped in
such a room and this is where i disagree with this analogy if you were to do
the same thing with fish as you would want done with your enclosed room by
opening up a window or door you would be changing out all of the air, if you
were in sense to do the same with fish change out all the water you would
kill your fish just as easy as not doing the water changes, cause you need
some of the beneficial bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that
part of the analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish actually
breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen from the oxygen
and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or any penguin marineland
filter is mixes new air in with water so basically your changing all the air
that is in the water or more then enough of it to keep the fish healthy the
reason for the waterchange anology would be something more like, this is how
i would explain doing water change analogy would be your trapped in this
same room as you explained but you have proper air circulation but the room
keeper just keeps piling food in there, so much food that it is impossible
for you to eat or what you do eat just comes out of you the other end and of
course you have no bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your
food all over the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around
your poop and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would want all
this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out (parasites)but
not to clean it out so much that there is nothing there for you to eat.
PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of BS i am
making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is anyways but i
still don t agree with that analogy cause what that is saying is that you
would have to do 100 percent water changes all day everyday you whole life
would be water changes.
well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles here.
> Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best filtration you
can find and you STILL have to make partial water changes.
> Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside air filter
going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air filter is, if you don't
let fresh air in that room you and your room mates are going to start
gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for the "room keeper" to open the
locked door and let in fresh air on a daily, regular basis or would you
prefer for the "keeper" to wait until you are desperately gasping for air to
let in some fresh ventilation?
> I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty or
insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
>
> joe t
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1201 - Release Date: 12/28/2007
11:51 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25165 From: Jodi Lynn Reeves Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lenny - I have a question as to what something is in your last p
They are microscopic
> and millions of them live in a filter pad or sponge and that is where
the
> majority of the nitrogen cycle takes place which is why it's so
important to
> do proper filter maintenance but NOT to change out the filter pads or
over
> clean them as this can put your tank into a mini-cycle.

I read all of the posts that come through. Not that I have all of the
different kinds of fish that people have but just to learn. But what is
a mini-cycle? That may sound dumb. But I have not figured that one out
yet.

Thanks for your help, Jodi
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25166 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
I have reading this BS for the last few days. This is a hobby and not a profession. The whole process is really simple.

We do PWC's in order to lower the Nitrate level in our tanks. Nitrate is caused by the excreations of the fish as well as the decaying food in the water. Why must we try to confuse Mother Nature.

Lets just accept the fact that PWC's are necessary for good Aquarium Maintenance. It has taken us Years to get to the point that we are beginning to understand what happens in our tanks and now we are trying to confuse the issue.

There is an old expression and these letter spell it out KISS ( Keep It Simple Stupid).

HAPPY NEW YEAR

John in Nevada

"Lenny V. aka GoldLenny" <GoldLenny@...> wrote:
OK... just to clear up something since there are several thousand members in
the group. The "beneficial bacteria", namely the nitrifying bacteria do not
really live in the water column. They attach to surface areas of the tank
and gravel but mostly they live in the filter media. They are microscopic
and millions of them live in a filter pad or sponge and that is where the
majority of the nitrogen cycle takes place which is why it's so important to
do proper filter maintenance but NOT to change out the filter pads or over
clean them as this can put your tank into a mini-cycle.

If someone did do the plumbing to have a constant inflow of fresh dechlored
water, like from a natural spring or other fresh water source and the old
water would go down the drain or back into a stream or lake or something
like that, there actually would be very little need for filtration or
nitrifying bacteria since all of the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate/hormones/etc.
would all be flushed out of the tank on an hourly or several hour basis. As
long as the pH and temperature of the incoming water was consistent with the
water the fish are acclimated to, this would be the best case scenario for
our fish. It's like a freshwater stream that is constantly supplied with
sparkling clear fresh mountain stream water, compared to a stagnant pond
(more like our tanks).

The filter, whether a bio-wheel or any other kind of filter, does not
actually add O2 to the water. O2 is added to the water via surface
agitation. Of course, any HOB filter that has a waterfall causing a splash
back into the tank will also cause good surface agitation which will allow
CO2, nitrogenous gases and other nasties to outgas out of the tank and O2
and other "fresh" air to in gas into the water. This is why a tall tank
with limited surface area will have a lower O2 level compared to a wide tank
with lots of surface area.

Now, comparing our tanks to a bathroom is more like it. That is why we need
to do frequent and regular PWC's, gravel vacuuming and filter maintenance...
to remove the fish waste from the closed system since we don't have a
constant supply of sparkling clean fresh water like a mountain stream.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:24 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in some sense
i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is plenty maybe not for the
cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it and of
course you would want the air changed all the time if you were trapped in
such a room and this is where i disagree with this analogy if you were to do
the same thing with fish as you would want done with your enclosed room by
opening up a window or door you would be changing out all of the air, if you
were in sense to do the same with fish change out all the water you would
kill your fish just as easy as not doing the water changes, cause you need
some of the beneficial bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that
part of the analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish actually
breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen from the oxygen
and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or any penguin marineland
filter is mixes new air in with water so basically your changing all the air
that is in the water or more then enough of it to keep the fish healthy the
reason for the waterchange anology would be something more like, this is how
i would explain doing water change analogy would be your trapped in this
same room as you explained but you have proper air circulation but the room
keeper just keeps piling food in there, so much food that it is impossible
for you to eat or what you do eat just comes out of you the other end and of
course you have no bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your
food all over the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around
your poop and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would want all
this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out (parasites)but
not to clean it out so much that there is nothing there for you to eat.
PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of BS i am
making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is anyways but i
still don t agree with that analogy cause what that is saying is that you
would have to do 100 percent water changes all day everyday you whole life
would be water changes.
well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com ,
joe t wrote:
>
> This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles here.
> Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best filtration you
can find and you STILL have to make partial water changes.
> Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside air filter
going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air filter is, if you don't
let fresh air in that room you and your room mates are going to start
gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for the "room keeper" to open the
locked door and let in fresh air on a daily, regular basis or would you
prefer for the "keeper" to wait until you are desperately gasping for air to
let in some fresh ventilation?
> I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty or
insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
>
> joe t
>
>

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1201 - Release Date: 12/28/2007
11:51 AM




Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when replying, thanks.
·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
<º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this matter.
Yahoo! Groups Links






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25167 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: Lenny - I have a question as to what something is in your last p
Hi Jodi,

A Mini-Cycle is a short term disruption of the nitrogen cycle in an
otherwise established tank. Some things that cause a tank that was fully
cycled to have a mini-cycle (an ammonia or nitrite spike) would usually be
caused by adding more fish, over-cleaning the filters, etc. The nitrogen
cycle normally takes 4-12 weeks to fully establish all of the nitrifying
bacteria whereas a mini-cycle would only last a few days to a few weeks
since there was already some nitrifying bacteria left in the tank and they
just had to multiply enough to catch up with the added bioload (waste) of
the new fish or from when the nitrifying bacteria colonies were damaged or
destroyed by over-cleaning the filters.

Hope that clears things up.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Jodi Lynn Reeves
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: Lenny - I have a question as to what something is
in your last post.

They are microscopic
> and millions of them live in a filter pad or sponge and that is where
the
> majority of the nitrogen cycle takes place which is why it's so
important to
> do proper filter maintenance but NOT to change out the filter pads or
over
> clean them as this can put your tank into a mini-cycle.

I read all of the posts that come through. Not that I have all of the
different kinds of fish that people have but just to learn. But what is a
mini-cycle? That may sound dumb. But I have not figured that one out yet.

Thanks for your help, Jodi
>


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.11/1201 - Release Date: 12/28/2007
11:51 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25168 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/29/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week. Water
changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that accumulate over
time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish during
the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
pheromones.

I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do is to
think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one that you
do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The fish are
not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that there is
an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet for
water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake have a
constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter the
system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a larger
water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more often
for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
spawn.

To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full, expected
lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.

Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a goldfish
that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the sky.
In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the fancy ones,
with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than that,
and you have not done your job as an aquarist.

When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be done
at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it for the
health of the fish.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is plenty
maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it and
of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this analogy
if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would be
changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same with
fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as easy
as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the beneficial
bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen
from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or any
penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so basically
your changing all the air that is in the water or more then enough of
it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange anology
would be something more like,
this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be your
trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper air
circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there, so
much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all over
the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your poop
and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would
want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out
(parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
there for you to eat.
PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of BS
i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that is
saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all day
everyday you whole life would be water changes.
well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles
here.
> Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
changes.
> Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your room
mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for
the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a
daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
ventilation?
> I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty or
insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
>
> joe t
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25169 From: Kevin Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Does anyone have any suggestion on fish dealers in Mississippi? Or
Kentucky aroung the Louisburg area (I'll be traveling there next
month.)

Thanks!

;-)


In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Melissa Walker <playnwifsnot@...>
wrote:
>
> well I wouldnt try mixing tropical fish in with
> lake/river fish. For one the temps are compleatly
> different, Lake/river fish can do fine at room temps,
> angels prefer to be at 78 degrees or higher, we keep
> them happily at 80 degrees at work. And lake/river
> fish woud quickly take the angel fish down, their
> whispery fins look pretty tastey to other fish. Then
> there is the possible parasite thin, wild caught fish
> always run a higher chance of having "cooties" than
> well bred and maintained tropical fish. So I would
> either consider tropical, or lake/river setup, I
> wouldnt try to push the two together in one unit. You
> could try your hands at one of the setups and see how
> you like caring for fish again before setting up
> several tanks.
>
> And with that note, alot of people think angelfish are
> hard to care for, they are extreamly easy to care for,
> just remember babies need to eat several times a day.
> They are like the skinny people we all hate that can
> eat anything they want all day long and stay
> skinny....wish I could do that. I learned this from
> Angelfish Express, not that I had a diet off issue, it
> was something they just really stressed upon the
> store, to keep them nice and healthy, 10% water change
> weekly and feed 3 times a day. I think getting from
> good stock and caring for them correctly kept our
> death numbers very low compaired when we were getting
> from Fl. (Angelfish Express is from the Cleveland
> area)
>
> We live, then learn, then get depends :P
>
> :D
> ~Melissa
>
> --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:
>
> > Hey Melissa!
> >
> > Thanks so much for the advice!
> >
> > I am actually interested in Angels also but was
> > afraid that if I
> > added local fish they may make short disposal of an
> > Angel.
> >
> > I'll check out the links.
> >
> > My uncle works for a local wildlife reserve so I do
> > have good access
> > to wild local varieties. I have even thought about
> > adding some small
> > alligator gar fish. My poor tetras won't last long
> > if I do that
> > though.
> >
> > Thanks again for your help. My birthday is coming up
> > and I am
> > requesting a 100+ gallon tank from my parents.
> > LOL...we'll see.
> >
> > ;-)
> >
> > You guys have a great weekend!
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> > >
> > > I once had a large mouth bass tank. We went
> > fishing
> > > one summer, and somehow my dads friend talked us
> > into
> > > setting up our tank as such. We had a 300 gallon
> > lake
> > > setup. We went and got a ton of anachris and
> > heavily
> > > planted one side, leaving small open trails in the
> > > anachris forest for thm to easily swim through,
> > and a
> > > few dwarf lilly pads, as most species of lake fish
> > are
> > > a bit skittish. We used a sand substrate
> > (childrens
> > > play sand), and kept the temps fairly low as lakes
> > do
> > > not tend to get real warm, we had it set at 74
> > > degrees. And algae eaters....lol they never lasted
> > > long. We kept 3 in there for about 4 years, then
> > we
> > > set them free as they started out at 8", and when
> > > released they were 14" long. Lake and river fish
> > can
> > > get rather large, even sunfish and blue gill can
> > get
> > > over 8" if well maintained.
> > >
> > > As for pet stores, there are some good, then there
> > are
> > > some bad. Whats funny is when youwalk into a bad
> > when
> > > and they thinkthey know what they are doing! Now
> > our
> > > petcos in Toledo, their fish are horrible, but the
> > > ones down in BG have nice fish. Then with my
> > store, we
> > > have great fish, as does one of out other 3
> > locations,
> > > the other 3 have idiots there who sell terrible
> > fish.
> > > You have to take the good with the bad. And ick is
> > > stress related, so it is far better to get the
> > fish a
> > > few days after they arrive at the pet store
> > instead of
> > > the day of, this way they get time to get settled
> > in,
> > > then you can see if illness is going to peek out.
> > >
> > > I have bought and sold fish online, except the
> > people
> > > I had bought from were cichlid breeders. I know
> > the
> > > people at Angelfish Express, they have FANTASTIC
> > > angelfish. I would order 40-60 of them at a time,
> > and
> > > I would be lucky if I even lost 1 in the whole
> > > shipment. They are great people, so if you are
> > > interested in angels, I would look into them.
> > >
> >
> http://www.freshwaterangelfish.com/store.asp?pid=15388&catid=19799
> > >
> > > Rocky Mountain Discus have great fish, I
> > personally
> > > never used them, but I have a good friend who has
> > > gotten fish through them and they are
> > breathtaking.
> > > http://www.rockymountaindiscus.com/
> > >
> > > ~Melissa
> > >
> > > --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I am new to the group but not so new to
> > freshwater
> > > > aquariums.
> > > >
> > > > Growing up we always had one, of course my
> > mother
> > > > cared for it for
> > > > the most part though. It was always real neat to
> > > > look at and was
> > > > enjoyed by the entire family.
> > > >
> > > > I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon
> > tank
> > > > along with hood
> > > > and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for
> > > > filter system, air
> > > > pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything
> > set
> > > > up back in
> > > > November and added drift wood and some beautiful
> > > > stones (both large
> > > > and small) that I collected from a local lake.
> > Water
> > > > has been added
> > > > and is checked daily for balance. Everything
> > seems
> > > > fine.
> > > >
> > > > I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters
> > a
> > > > week ago and they
> > > > are doing quite well. I did notice that one
> > tetra
> > > > looked a little
> > > > puny and did develope little white cyst. I came
> > to
> > > > the conclusion
> > > > that it was ick and immediately treated it as
> > such.
> > > > It has been four
> > > > days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great
> > (no
> > > > longer has the
> > > > cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of
> > the
> > > > treating of the
> > > > sick tetra was going on I watched all the other
> > fish
> > > > very closely
> > > > and they have all done quite well showing no
> > signs
> > > > at all of any
> > > > problem.
> > > >
> > > > I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the
> > > > closest pet store to
> > > > me. Their fish just do not look good. I have
> > even
> > > > seen some in their
> > > > tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and
> > > > sickly looking)and
> > > > there have been a couple of occasions that dead
> > fish
> > > > are floating
> > > > around in their tanks. I have told the lady that
> > > > works in that
> > > > department and she treats me like I do not know
> > what
> > > > I am talking
> > > > about. Due to her attitude and the condition of
> > the
> > > > fish there I am
> > > > quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish
> > at
> > > > that location. I
> > > > live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I
> > can
> > > > find other fish
> > > > stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any
> > of
> > > > the members here
> > > > have done much online purchasing? If so, could
> > you
> > > > guys point me in
> > > > the right direction online for the best
> > suppliers? A
> > > > supplier in
> > > > Mississippi or the surrounding states would be
> > > > wonderful. And of
> > > > course, any advice for the novice freshwater
> > fish
> > > > lover would be
> > > > great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.
> > > >
> > > > A little about myself :
> > > >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________________________
______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25171 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
If you can keep your Nitrates under 10ppm with a 50% water change every 3
weeks, more power to you! I would not recommend this to other fishkeepers
however.



(I thought, and I think the others thought you were asking our opinion of
the practice.)



Good luck with the cichlids!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes



you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes
but i have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i
know that is probably new compared to some of you guys here but i
have been doing my 50% water changes every 3 weeks except like i had
mentioned in a previous post i got lazy at a point for about 6 months
and rarly did water changes maybe every 2 months in that 6 months and
it s been just fine for me so far.
Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be
determined on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this
morning and still (nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0,
hardness between 200-300 but was told by owner of my LFS that this is
good for cichlids,alk for get the test results but it was within
tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower then i want it but it is
about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a cichlids since they
are known to be great at adapting to water changes the calcuim rocks
didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything keeps
going this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but
however if i notice the water quality changing then i will of course
do it more often.
Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2 clownfish
and 2 orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow tang
that was in the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a
keyhole angel as you can see in my pics i think i have had him for
over a year now so i must be doing something right.
not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said it
was actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that
there is no problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of you
guys are so PRO LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this
arguement with a couple of the long time members. Still to this day i
use drsfosterandsmith.com to buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but
from LFS is fish themself and fish food well except the other day i
brought filter media but think i will be buying that there more often
too. unless i have a big order cause it is about half price but the
shipping for just the media makes up the orginal price at the LFS.

WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long but
the moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt
mean you have to too. just find what works for you and stick with it.
Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows
how old they are when you get them and still alive to this day
well thanks for advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it to
me for the cichlids





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25172 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
(Lightning Bolt in the background... then an authoritative voice...)

"It's not nice to fool (with) Mother Nature"

(LOL - I think that was a Parkay commercial)

Remember that Mother Nature has been doing things mostly right for thousands
of years, as God intended. It's when man tries to change things that they
often go awry. Mother Nature provides for constant PWC's in almost all of
her "setups" and in the ones that do not get constant PWC's, she limits the
stocking or actually allowed the fish to develop a labyrinth so they can
breath surface air when there was very limited water volume or stagnant
conditions. You can do things how you want or you can follow Mother Nature
/ God's plan which has been working for a long, long time. Whatever you
decide, just remember that lightning bolt in the background. ;-)

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 12:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes

you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes but i
have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i know that is
probably new compared to some of you guys here but i have been doing my 50%
water changes every 3 weeks except like i had mentioned in a previous post i
got lazy at a point for about 6 months and rarly did water changes maybe
every 2 months in that 6 months and it s been just fine for me so far.
Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be determined
on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this morning and still
(nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0, hardness between 200-300
but was told by owner of my LFS that this is good for cichlids,alk for get
the test results but it was within tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower
then i want it but it is about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a
cichlids since they are known to be great at adapting to water changes the
calcuim rocks didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything keeps going
this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but however if i notice
the water quality changing then i will of course do it more often.
Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2 clownfish and 2
orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow tang that was in
the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a keyhole angel as you
can see in my pics i think i have had him for over a year now so i must be
doing something right.
not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said it was
actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that there is no
problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of you guys are so PRO
LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this arguement with a couple
of the long time members. Still to this day i use drsfosterandsmith.com to
buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but from LFS is fish themself and fish
food well except the other day i brought filter media but think i will be
buying that there more often too. unless i have a big order cause it is
about half price but the shipping for just the media makes up the orginal
price at the LFS.

WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long but the
moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt mean you have
to too. just find what works for you and stick with it.
Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows how old
they are when you get them and still alive to this day well thanks for
advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it to me for the cichlids


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1202 - Release Date: 12/29/2007
1:27 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25173 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Just curious, though I haven’t been a part of this discussion: But it makes
a big difference as to whether you have run aquariums for more than five
years – with different fish as opposed to the same fish. Almost every fish
lives three to five years at least. Good luck!



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes



If you can keep your Nitrates under 10ppm with a 50% water change every 3
weeks, more power to you! I would not recommend this to other fishkeepers
however.

(I thought, and I think the others thought you were asking our opinion of
the practice.)

Good luck with the cichlids!

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes

you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes
but i have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i
know that is probably new compared to some of you guys here but i
have been doing my 50% water changes every 3 weeks except like i had
mentioned in a previous post i got lazy at a point for about 6 months
and rarly did water changes maybe every 2 months in that 6 months and
it s been just fine for me so far.
Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be
determined on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this
morning and still (nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0,
hardness between 200-300 but was told by owner of my LFS that this is
good for cichlids,alk for get the test results but it was within
tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower then i want it but it is
about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a cichlids since they
are known to be great at adapting to water changes the calcuim rocks
didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything keeps
going this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but
however if i notice the water quality changing then i will of course
do it more often.
Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2 clownfish
and 2 orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow tang
that was in the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a
keyhole angel as you can see in my pics i think i have had him for
over a year now so i must be doing something right.
not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said it
was actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that
there is no problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of you
guys are so PRO LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this
arguement with a couple of the long time members. Still to this day i
use drsfosterandsmith.com to buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but
from LFS is fish themself and fish food well except the other day i
brought filter media but think i will be buying that there more often
too. unless i have a big order cause it is about half price but the
shipping for just the media makes up the orginal price at the LFS.

WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long but
the moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt
mean you have to too. just find what works for you and stick with it.
Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows
how old they are when you get them and still alive to this day
well thanks for advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it to
me for the cichlids

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25174 From: JOHN KD7POE Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
I Have been keeping fish for over 20years and I still have a lot to learn.

One area is in controlling Nitrates. To be able to keep nitrates at 0 - 10ppm for a 3 week period is outstanding. In fact I have trouble keeping them at 20 - 40 ppm, even doing weekly changes.

John in Nevada



Beth Lucas <bethmlucas@...> wrote:
Just curious, though I haven’t been a part of this discussion: But it makes
a big difference as to whether you have run aquariums for more than five
years – with different fish as opposed to the same fish. Almost every fish
lives three to five years at least. Good luck!

_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Donna Ransome
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 11:40 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes

If you can keep your Nitrates under 10ppm with a 50% water change every 3
weeks, more power to you! I would not recommend this to other fishkeepers
however.

(I thought, and I think the others thought you were asking our opinion of
the practice.)

Good luck with the cichlids!

_____

From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes

you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes
but i have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i
know that is probably new compared to some of you guys here but i
have been doing my 50% water changes every 3 weeks except like i had
mentioned in a previous post i got lazy at a point for about 6 months
and rarly did water changes maybe every 2 months in that 6 months and
it s been just fine for me so far.
Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be
determined on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this
morning and still (nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0,
hardness between 200-300 but was told by owner of my LFS that this is
good for cichlids,alk for get the test results but it was within
tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower then i want it but it is
about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a cichlids since they
are known to be great at adapting to water changes the calcuim rocks
didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything keeps
going this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but
however if i notice the water quality changing then i will of course
do it more often.
Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2 clownfish
and 2 orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow tang
that was in the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a
keyhole angel as you can see in my pics i think i have had him for
over a year now so i must be doing something right.
not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said it
was actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that
there is no problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of you
guys are so PRO LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this
arguement with a couple of the long time members. Still to this day i
use drsfosterandsmith.com to buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but
from LFS is fish themself and fish food well except the other day i
brought filter media but think i will be buying that there more often
too. unless i have a big order cause it is about half price but the
shipping for just the media makes up the orginal price at the LFS.

WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long but
the moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt
mean you have to too. just find what works for you and stick with it.
Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows
how old they are when you get them and still alive to this day
well thanks for advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it to
me for the cichlids

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25175 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and relaxing.
I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Szabo
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different



You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week. Water
changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that accumulate over
time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish during
the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
pheromones.

I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do is to
think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one that you
do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The fish are
not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that there is
an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet for
water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake have a
constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter the
system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a larger
water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more often
for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
spawn.

To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full, expected
lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.

Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a goldfish
that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the sky.
In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the fancy ones,
with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than that,
and you have not done your job as an aquarist.

When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be done
at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it for the
health of the fish.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different

ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is plenty
maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it and
of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this analogy
if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would be
changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same with
fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as easy
as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the beneficial
bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen
from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or any
penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so basically
your changing all the air that is in the water or more then enough of
it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange anology
would be something more like,
this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be your
trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper air
circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there, so
much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all over
the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your poop
and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would
want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out
(parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
there for you to eat.
PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of BS
i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that is
saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all day
everyday you whole life would be water changes.
well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
joe t <jett07002@...> wrote:
>
> This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles
here.
> Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
changes.
> Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your room
mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for
the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a
daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
ventilation?
> I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty or
insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
>
> joe t
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25176 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
As I have pointed out in an earlier post today (maybe last night) one
can go long periods of not changing water with no outward effect on the
fish, but, there are still consequences to pay with the longevity of the
fish in that they do not live out their expected lifespan. I did use the
example of goldfish, which immediately came to mind as a common
occurrence throughout the years, but other fish are similarly affected.

I did not mention other effects on the fish over time, such as not
breeding, various illnesses that may occur with increasing frequency.
You simply cannot view fish for a while each day and determine that they
are fine and you do not need to do a water change. With some fish you
need to be more scrupulous with water changes than with others. For
example, if you take the group of fishes formerly known as Apistogrammas
(now split into several genus), you need to be meticulous with water
quality, meaning you need to change water often, If you keep
Julidochromis, you can be a slacker so far as water changes go, since
they truly like "old" water. By being a slacker, I mean you change less
water per water change, not that you skip them all together. (For those
of you who do not know, all these fish are cichlids, the first group
from South America, the send from African rift lakes.)

Anyone who has been in the hobby for some time will tell you this. This
is not to say we actually like or enjoy doing water changes, but we
realize the importance of water changes to the long term health of our
fish.



\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 1:22 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes

you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes
but i have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i
know that is probably new compared to some of you guys here but i
have been doing my 50% water changes every 3 weeks except like i had
mentioned in a previous post i got lazy at a point for about 6 months
and rarly did water changes maybe every 2 months in that 6 months and
it s been just fine for me so far.
Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be
determined on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this
morning and still (nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0,
hardness between 200-300 but was told by owner of my LFS that this is
good for cichlids,alk for get the test results but it was within
tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower then i want it but it is
about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a cichlids since they
are known to be great at adapting to water changes the calcuim rocks
didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything keeps
going this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but
however if i notice the water quality changing then i will of course
do it more often.
Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2 clownfish
and 2 orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow tang
that was in the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a
keyhole angel as you can see in my pics i think i have had him for
over a year now so i must be doing something right.
not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said it
was actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that
there is no problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of you
guys are so PRO LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this
arguement with a couple of the long time members. Still to this day i
use drsfosterandsmith.com to buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but
from LFS is fish themself and fish food well except the other day i
brought filter media but think i will be buying that there more often
too. unless i have a big order cause it is about half price but the
shipping for just the media makes up the orginal price at the LFS.

WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long but
the moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt
mean you have to too. just find what works for you and stick with it.
Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows
how old they are when you get them and still alive to this day
well thanks for advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it to
me for the cichlids
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25179 From: Deenerz@aol.com Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: can t really judge my H2O readings right now
Steve,

Don't want to start a new long drawn out discussion, but I strongly suggest
you avoid pH adjustments with bottles, powders etc.

Unless you are at a low low pH of 5 I would just acclimate the cichlids to
water source water you have out of the tap. I know the stores and the bottles
and many of the books we all read say that Tanganyikans need to be at 8 pH and
higher but they will survive at a lower pH.

I stopped adding pH adjusters when I started killing off fish from it.

Now I just keep a bag of crushed coral in the tank or in the back of my hang
on back filter. Or put some in an air driven filter box.

If you combine this method with frequent 10 to 20% water changes the pH will
not swing back and forth which is what causes fish the most harm.

-Mike


In a message dated 12/30/2007 3:19:44 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
steve01@... writes:

since i just put the cichlids in the tank. it was an extablished
community tank before hand. did a water change and added ph plus to it






**************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25180 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
With using a Python water change system, it's just as easy to do 25% as it
is 10% since the hardest part is hooking up the Python.

10% a week is a minimum baseline for a low bioload tank. The higher the
bioload, the more water that needs to be changed out each week.

For goldfish and other large body mass or messy fish (cichlids, plecos,
etc.), I would say a 25% weekly PWC would be the minimum baseline.

If you get lazy and miss a PWC, it won't be disastrous but if you only do
them every 2-4 weeks and you skip a PWC, then you're talking a month to two
months and that's not being very nice to your fish. Try leaving your
garbage in your kitchen, not washing your dishes and not flushing your
toilet for a few weeks straight and you'll get the drift of what the fish
are feeling. The first few days, everything will be OK. After a week, if
you leave the bathroom door closed and the vent on, you'll still manage OK.
After two weeks, you'll be starting to smell the effects of not keeping up
with basic cleaning that we all take for granted in our daily lives. The
fish rely on us to do this basic cleaning for them.

It would be best to do 100% PWC's daily but we've learned that we can push
things by waiting a week or maybe two weeks for a PWC on a lightly stocked
and/or planted tank but I'm sure the fish are starting to notice a certain
smell building up in their water.

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 5:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] first person who like doing water changes

this is a first someone who likes doing water changes.
he he he i m good at starting up controversy i like reading everyone s
opinion. I actually started out as a question but i think i asked the
question wrong maybe i should of kept it more simple.
so lets try this again.
for all cichlids owners
Since cichlids are known for being messy fish do you do water changes more
often then you would in your community tank?

now maybe this only pertains to a few people in here i have no idea

Now for those of you who are saying do 10% water changes are you actually
doing 10 percent or is it more like 20 percent? what i mean by that say you
have a 55 gallon tank are you changing out only between 5.5 gallons per week
cause if that s what your doing that might actually be closer to 20 percent
water change when you take in consideration your substrate, your decor,
anything and everything that has weight that takes away from the water mass.

now on the other hand if you do take that in consideration say in your 55
gallon tank you actaully have 35 gallons and you do a 10% water change that
is 3.5 gallons now depending on your filter i would say mine holds more then
a gallon maybe 2 so now that 35 is really 36-
37 gallons or maybe you just round off to 4 gallons?
But anyways you get my drift are you actually doing what your preaching or
overduing it or maybe even underdoing.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and
relaxing.
> I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> ]
On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
>
>
> You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week.
Water
> changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that accumulate
over
> time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish
during
> the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
> pheromones.
>
> I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do is
to
> think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one that
you
> do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The
fish are
> not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that
there is
> an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet for
> water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake
have a
> constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter the
> system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a
larger
> water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more
often
> for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
> spawn.
>
> To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full,
expected
> lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.
>
> Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a
goldfish
> that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the
sky.
> In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the fancy
ones,
> with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than
that,
> and you have not done your job as an aquarist.
>
> When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be
done
> at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it for
the
> health of the fish.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
> ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in some
> sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is
plenty
> maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
> i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it
and
> of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
> trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this
analogy
> if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done with
> your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would be
> changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same
with
> fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as easy as
> not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the
beneficial
> bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the analogy
> incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or oxygen in
> which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish actually breath
> the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen from the oxygen and
> what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or
any
> penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so
basically
> your changing all the air that is in the water or more then enough
of
> it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange anology
> would be something more like, this is how i would explain doing water
> change analogy would be
your
> trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper air
> circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there, so
> much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat just
> comes out of you the other end and of course you have no bathroom to
> go in just go on the floor along with your food all
over
> the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your
poop
> and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
> harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would
> want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out
> (parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing there
> for you to eat.
> PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of
BS
> i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
> anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that
is
> saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all
day
> everyday you whole life would be water changes.
> well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
> let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles
> here.
> > Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
> don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
> filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
> changes.
> > Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
> way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside air
> filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air filter is,
> if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your
room
> mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for
> the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a
> daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
> until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
> ventilation?
> > I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
> for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty
or
> insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> > I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
> are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
> >
> > joe t
> >

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1202 - Release Date: 12/29/2007
1:27 PM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25183 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: cichlid dancing
The shiver dance can be either spawning ritual or show of aggression. Could
be two males and females do it too.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 8:03 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] cichlid dancing



i am guessing it is somekinda mating ritual but unsure but the 1 larger
one i think is a male makes his body shiver or shake for just a few
seconds. Then starts chasing what i believe is the female around and
spreads his fins out as much as he can and then does the shiver thing
again that is why i am thinking it is a mating thing.
PS these are my Acei s doing this not my new juvenile yellow labs.
PPS i remember asking along time ago what are the blue and either dark
blue or black striped cichlids that have the same black strip along the
fins as the yellow labs. Turns out they are the same species
labidochromis careulus or however it is spelled the yellow ones are
from lions cove and a few other parts while the blue ones i have found
out are form undu pt. according to www.cichlid-forum.com. Or at least
they look close enough to which that is what i would call them.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25184 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
First, not all cichlids are "dirty' fish.

Second, when we are talking 10% or 25%, the actual amount of water
removed is not so important, so long as it is close to that ball park
figure. If we tried to do an exact 10% water change, no matter if it was
based on the actual amount of water in the aquarium, or the amount of
water the tank purports to hold, it would give everyone another reason
not to like doing water changes.

Third, you are acting like an idiot trying to prove a point that has
been disproven over and over again by a myriad of aquarists. You need
to do regular weekly water changes to keep your fish in the best of
health, and to help maintain water quality. There was a somewhat famous
experiment done in the first half of the 20th century that, more or
less, proves this point. A number of trout (I believe) fry were placed
in a tube that had a constant flow of water through it. The fish were
fed, and grew until they were like sardines in the pipe. The wastes and
other excretions from the fish must be removed from the tank. There is
no way around it. There are many more compounds put into the water by
fish than we measure for, simply because easy to use test kits are not
available and it is far too expensive for the average person to afford
to measure, should the kits be available.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 6:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] first person who like doing water changes

this is a first someone who likes doing water changes.
he he he i m good at starting up controversy i like reading everyone
s opinion. I actually started out as a question but i think i asked
the question wrong maybe i should of kept it more simple.
so lets try this again.
for all cichlids owners
Since cichlids are known for being messy fish do you do water changes
more often then you would in your community tank?

now maybe this only pertains to a few people in here i have no idea

Now for those of you who are saying do 10% water changes are you
actually doing 10 percent or is it more like 20 percent? what i mean
by that say you have a 55 gallon tank are you changing out only
between 5.5 gallons per week cause if that s what your doing that
might actually be closer to 20 percent water change when you take in
consideration your substrate, your decor, anything and everything
that has weight that takes away from the water mass.
now on the other hand if you do take that in consideration say in
your 55 gallon tank you actaully have 35 gallons and you do a 10%
water change that is 3.5 gallons now depending on your filter i would
say mine holds more then a gallon maybe 2 so now that 35 is really 36-
37 gallons or maybe you just round off to 4 gallons?
But anyways you get my drift are you actually doing what your
preaching or overduing it or maybe even underdoing.




--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and
relaxing.
> I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
>
>
> You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week.
Water
> changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that accumulate
over
> time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish
during
> the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
> pheromones.
>
> I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do is
to
> think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one that
you
> do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The
fish are
> not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that
there is
> an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet for
> water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake
have a
> constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter the
> system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a
larger
> water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more
often
> for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
> spawn.
>
> To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full,
expected
> lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.
>
> Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a
goldfish
> that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the
sky.
> In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the fancy
ones,
> with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than
that,
> and you have not done your job as an aquarist.
>
> When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be
done
> at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it for
the
> health of the fish.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
> ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
> some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is
plenty
> maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
> i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it
and
> of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
> trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this
analogy
> if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
> with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would be
> changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same
with
> fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as easy
> as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the
beneficial
> bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
> analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
> oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
> actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen
> from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or
any
> penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so
basically
> your changing all the air that is in the water or more then enough
of
> it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange anology
> would be something more like,
> this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be
your
> trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper air
> circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there, so
> much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
> just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
> bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all
over
> the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your
poop
> and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
> harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would
> want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out
> (parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
> there for you to eat.
> PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of
BS
> i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
> anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that
is
> saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all
day
> everyday you whole life would be water changes.
> well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
> let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles
> here.
> > Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
> don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
> filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
> changes.
> > Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
> way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
> air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
> filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your
room
> mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for
> the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a
> daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
> until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
> ventilation?
> > I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
> for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty
or
> insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> > I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
> are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
> >
> > joe t
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25185 From: Beth Lucas Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
It took me all day to understand your point, since you don’t know basic
English grammar or punctuation (you are so hard to understand, is English
your first language?)

Second, don’t laugh at me – just because you are strange and got fish
even though you don’t like them, is no good reason to be rude to people!
That’s like getting a cat and leaving poop pile up for weeks in the litter
box. Disgusting. Your house must smell awful.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of steve
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:09 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] first person who like doing water changes



this is a first someone who likes doing water changes.
he he he i m good at starting up controversy i like reading everyone
s opinion. I actually started out as a question but i think i asked
the question wrong maybe i should of kept it more simple.
so lets try this again.
for all cichlids owners
Since cichlids are known for being messy fish do you do water changes
more often then you would in your community tank?

now maybe this only pertains to a few people in here i have no idea

Now for those of you who are saying do 10% water changes are you
actually doing 10 percent or is it more like 20 percent? what i mean
by that say you have a 55 gallon tank are you changing out only
between 5.5 gallons per week cause if that s what your doing that
might actually be closer to 20 percent water change when you take in
consideration your substrate, your decor, anything and everything
that has weight that takes away from the water mass.
now on the other hand if you do take that in consideration say in
your 55 gallon tank you actaully have 35 gallons and you do a 10%
water change that is 3.5 gallons now depending on your filter i would
say mine holds more then a gallon maybe 2 so now that 35 is really 36-
37 gallons or maybe you just round off to 4 gallons?
But anyways you get my drift are you actually doing what your
preaching or overduing it or maybe even underdoing.

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and
relaxing.
> I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
>
>
> You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week.
Water
> changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that accumulate
over
> time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish
during
> the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
> pheromones.
>
> I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do is
to
> think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one that
you
> do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The
fish are
> not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that
there is
> an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet for
> water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake
have a
> constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter the
> system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a
larger
> water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more
often
> for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
> spawn.
>
> To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full,
expected
> lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.
>
> Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a
goldfish
> that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the
sky.
> In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the fancy
ones,
> with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than
that,
> and you have not done your job as an aquarist.
>
> When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be
done
> at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it for
the
> health of the fish.
>
> \\Steve//
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
>
> ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
> some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is
plenty
> maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
> i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it
and
> of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
> trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this
analogy
> if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
> with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would be
> changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same
with
> fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as easy
> as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the
beneficial
> bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
> analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
> oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
> actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the hydrogen
> from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or
any
> penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so
basically
> your changing all the air that is in the water or more then enough
of
> it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange anology
> would be something more like,
> this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be
your
> trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper air
> circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there, so
> much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
> just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
> bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all
over
> the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your
poop
> and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
> harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you would
> want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests out
> (parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
> there for you to eat.
> PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of
BS
> i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
> anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that
is
> saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all
day
> everyday you whole life would be water changes.
> well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling lol
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> >
> > This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending, but
> let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in circles
> here.
> > Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean you
> don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
> filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
> changes.
> > Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with no
> way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
> air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
> filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your
room
> mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer for
> the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on a
> daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
> until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
> ventilation?
> > I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look insufficient
> for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look dirty
or
> insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> > I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what you
> are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
> >
> > joe t
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25186 From: William Date: 12/30/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
There is such things as cichlid community tanks. So community tank is
just a tank that has several species of fish in it . They could be
almost any type of fish that will get along in a tank. I have live
plants in all of my tanks but I still try to do 25 to 35% weekly
water changes on all of my tanks regardless of the bio load in the
tank. Even in the daphnia tanks when I do water changes I will take
out the water from the daphnia tank ad replace it with water from the
other tanks once it has cooled down to room temp. (I have two 2&1/2
gallon tanks that I grow daphnia for feeding my fish).


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> It took me all day to understand your point, since you don't know
basic
> English grammar or punctuation (you are so hard to understand, is
English
> your first language?)
>
> Second, don't laugh at me – just because you are strange and got
fish
> even though you don't like them, is no good reason to be rude to
people!
> That's like getting a cat and leaving poop pile up for weeks in the
litter
> box. Disgusting. Your house must smell awful.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:09 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] first person who like doing water changes
>
>
>
> this is a first someone who likes doing water changes.
> he he he i m good at starting up controversy i like reading
everyone
> s opinion. I actually started out as a question but i think i asked
> the question wrong maybe i should of kept it more simple.
> so lets try this again.
> for all cichlids owners
> Since cichlids are known for being messy fish do you do water
changes
> more often then you would in your community tank?
>
> now maybe this only pertains to a few people in here i have no idea
>
> Now for those of you who are saying do 10% water changes are you
> actually doing 10 percent or is it more like 20 percent? what i
mean
> by that say you have a 55 gallon tank are you changing out only
> between 5.5 gallons per week cause if that s what your doing that
> might actually be closer to 20 percent water change when you take
in
> consideration your substrate, your decor, anything and everything
> that has weight that takes away from the water mass.
> now on the other hand if you do take that in consideration say in
> your 55 gallon tank you actaully have 35 gallons and you do a 10%
> water change that is 3.5 gallons now depending on your filter i
would
> say mine holds more then a gallon maybe 2 so now that 35 is really
36-
> 37 gallons or maybe you just round off to 4 gallons?
> But anyways you get my drift are you actually doing what your
> preaching or overduing it or maybe even underdoing.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and
> relaxing.
> > I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> > Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it
different
> >
> >
> >
> > You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week.
> Water
> > changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that
accumulate
> over
> > time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish
> during
> > the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
> > pheromones.
> >
> > I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do
is
> to
> > think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one
that
> you
> > do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The
> fish are
> > not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that
> there is
> > an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet
for
> > water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake
> have a
> > constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter
the
> > system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a
> larger
> > water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more
> often
> > for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
> > spawn.
> >
> > To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full,
> expected
> > lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.
> >
> > Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a
> goldfish
> > that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the
> sky.
> > In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the
fancy
> ones,
> > with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than
> that,
> > and you have not done your job as an aquarist.
> >
> > When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be
> done
> > at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it
for
> the
> > health of the fish.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
> >
> > ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
> > some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is
> plenty
> > maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
> > i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it
> and
> > of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
> > trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this
> analogy
> > if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
> > with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would
be
> > changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same
> with
> > fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as
easy
> > as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the
> beneficial
> > bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
> > analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
> > oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
> > actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the
hydrogen
> > from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or
> any
> > penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so
> basically
> > your changing all the air that is in the water or more then
enough
> of
> > it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange
anology
> > would be something more like,
> > this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be
> your
> > trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper
air
> > circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there,
so
> > much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
> > just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
> > bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all
> over
> > the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your
> poop
> > and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
> > harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you
would
> > want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests
out
> > (parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
> > there for you to eat.
> > PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of
> BS
> > i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
> > anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that
> is
> > saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all
> day
> > everyday you whole life would be water changes.
> > well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling
lol
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com,
> > joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending,
but
> > let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in
circles
> > here.
> > > Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean
you
> > don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
> > filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
> > changes.
> > > Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with
no
> > way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
> > air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
> > filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your
> room
> > mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer
for
> > the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on
a
> > daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
> > until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
> > ventilation?
> > > I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look
insufficient
> > for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look
dirty
> or
> > insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> > > I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what
you
> > are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
> > >
> > > joe t
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25187 From: Donna Ransome Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
I only have the African cichlids so I have no basis for comparison on
maintenance for each.



When I was a kid and DID have the requisite goldfish, neons, zebras, etc., I
cleaned the whole tank (killing bacteria) every couple of weeks to get rid
of algae because I didn’t know any better. I was SO THRILLED to find out
what the problem was, that I could test for it, and I didn’t have to tear
down the tank to have crystal clear water! Partial water changes are a big
improvement.



_____

From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of William
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 12:09 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes



There is such things as cichlid community tanks. So community tank is
just a tank that has several species of fish in it . They could be
almost any type of fish that will get along in a tank. I have live
plants in all of my tanks but I still try to do 25 to 35% weekly
water changes on all of my tanks regardless of the bio load in the
tank. Even in the daphnia tanks when I do water changes I will take
out the water from the daphnia tank ad replace it with water from the
other tanks once it has cooled down to room temp. (I have two 2&1/2
gallon tanks that I grow daphnia for feeding my fish).

--- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com,
"Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@...>
wrote:
>
> It took me all day to understand your point, since you don't know
basic
> English grammar or punctuation (you are so hard to understand, is
English
> your first language?)
>
> Second, don't laugh at me – just because you are strange and got
fish
> even though you don't like them, is no good reason to be rude to
people!
> That's like getting a cat and leaving poop pile up for weeks in the
litter
> box. Disgusting. Your house must smell awful.
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com]
On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 4:09 PM
> To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] first person who like doing water changes
>
>
>
> this is a first someone who likes doing water changes.
> he he he i m good at starting up controversy i like reading
everyone
> s opinion. I actually started out as a question but i think i asked
> the question wrong maybe i should of kept it more simple.
> so lets try this again.
> for all cichlids owners
> Since cichlids are known for being messy fish do you do water
changes
> more often then you would in your community tank?
>
> now maybe this only pertains to a few people in here i have no idea
>
> Now for those of you who are saying do 10% water changes are you
> actually doing 10 percent or is it more like 20 percent? what i
mean
> by that say you have a 55 gallon tank are you changing out only
> between 5.5 gallons per week cause if that s what your doing that
> might actually be closer to 20 percent water change when you take
in
> consideration your substrate, your decor, anything and everything
> that has weight that takes away from the water mass.
> now on the other hand if you do take that in consideration say in
> your 55 gallon tank you actaully have 35 gallons and you do a 10%
> water change that is 3.5 gallons now depending on your filter i
would
> say mine holds more then a gallon maybe 2 so now that 35 is really
36-
> 37 gallons or maybe you just round off to 4 gallons?
> But anyways you get my drift are you actually doing what your
> preaching or overduing it or maybe even underdoing.
>
> --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com,
> "Beth Lucas" <bethmlucas@>
> wrote:
> >
> > I like doing water changes, and when they're small it is easy and
> relaxing.
> > I am not sure why people get fish and try to limit the cleanings.
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]
> On
> > Behalf Of Steve Szabo
> > Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:32 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it
different
> >
> >
> >
> > You need to do a partial water change of at least 10% each week.
> Water
> > changes are not just to remove nitrogenous products that
accumulate
> over
> > time, but to remove other chemicals that are released by the fish
> during
> > the normal course of life, not the least of which are hormones and
> > pheromones.
> >
> > I did not care for the analogy given either. What you need to do
is
> to
> > think about a lake near your home, I'm sure that there is one
that
> you
> > do visit from time to time. How many fish do you see in it? The
> fish are
> > not nearly at the density you have in your tank. Also note that
> there is
> > an inlet for water coming into the lake, and there is an outlet
for
> > water from the lake. This means that the fish living in the lake
> have a
> > constant water change. When it rains, even more water will enter
the
> > system in a shorter period of time. This would be akin to doing a
> larger
> > water change than normal, or changing water at the same rate more
> often
> > for a period of time. In fact, for some fish, this is a trigger to
> > spawn.
> >
> > To be successful, and to have your fish live out their full,
> expected
> > lifespan, you need to do water changes frequently.
> >
> > Some people are unjustifiably proud when they say the have a
> goldfish
> > that lived 5 or 7 years before going to the great aquarium in the
> sky.
> > In reality, a goldfish should live for 25 years or more, the
fancy
> ones,
> > with a compressed body, a minimum of 15-20 years. Any less than
> that,
> > and you have not done your job as an aquarist.
> >
> > When you hear and read people saying that water changes should be
> done
> > at least weekly, they are not just blowing smoke. They mean it
for
> the
> > health of the fish.
> >
> > \\Steve//
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com]
> > On Behalf Of steve
> > Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 10:25 PM
> > To: AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: ok ok let me try saying it different
> >
> > ok i m going to have to have a difference of opinion with you, in
> > some sense i agree with you but i think once every 3 weeks is
> plenty
> > maybe not for the cichlids but that is why i got the test strips.
> > i have heard you analogy before or at least 1 close enough to it
> and
> > of course you would want the air changed all the time if you were
> > trapped in such a room and this is where i disagree with this
> analogy
> > if you were to do the same thing with fish as you would want done
> > with your enclosed room by opening up a window or door you would
be
> > changing out all of the air, if you were in sense to do the same
> with
> > fish change out all the water you would kill your fish just as
easy
> > as not doing the water changes, cause you need some of the
> beneficial
> > bacteria for the fish to survive, not only is that part of the
> > analogy incorrect but water is actually a combination of air or
> > oxygen in which the fish breath it s not the water itself fish
> > actually breath the oxygen in the water by seperating the
hydrogen
> > from the oxygen and what the bio wheel does in my emperor 400 or
> any
> > penguin marineland filter is mixes new air in with water so
> basically
> > your changing all the air that is in the water or more then
enough
> of
> > it to keep the fish healthy the reason for the waterchange
anology
> > would be something more like,
> > this is how i would explain doing water change analogy would be
> your
> > trapped in this same room as you explained but you have proper
air
> > circulation but the room keeper just keeps piling food in there,
so
> > much food that it is impossible for you to eat or what you do eat
> > just comes out of you the other end and of course you have no
> > bathroom to go in just go on the floor along with your food all
> over
> > the floor so now you have bugs and whatever crawling around your
> poop
> > and pee but maybe also mice or rats that carry dieases but also
> > harmful toxins growing from the uneaten food so of course you
would
> > want all this trash cleaned up once in awhile to keep the pests
out
> > (parasites)but not to clean it out so much that there is nothing
> > there for you to eat.
> > PS i don t really know if this is correct this is just a bunch of
> BS
> > i am making up as i go along here at least a good half of it is
> > anyways but i still don t agree with that analogy cause what that
> is
> > saying is that you would have to do 100 percent water changes all
> day
> > everyday you whole life would be water changes.
> > well let s see what everyone else has to say about my rambling
lol
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@ <mailto:AquaticLife%40yahoogroups.com>
> yahoogroups.com,
> > joe t <jett07002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > This is getting confusing! I don't mean to be condescending,
but
> > let me put it this way, since we seem to be going around in
circles
> > here.
> > > Just because you put "good" filtration in a tank doesn't mean
you
> > don't have to do partial water changes. You can use the best
> > filtration you can find and you STILL have to make partial water
> > changes.
> > > Let's put it this way. You and other people are in a room with
no
> > way out and no windows and a locked door. There is only an inside
> > air filter going. Sooner or later, no matter how good that air
> > filter is, if you don't let fresh air in that room you and your
> room
> > mates are going to start gasping for air. Now, would you prefer
for
> > the "room keeper" to open the locked door and let in fresh air on
a
> > daily, regular basis or would you prefer for the "keeper" to wait
> > until you are desperately gasping for air to let in some fresh
> > ventilation?
> > > I hope you get the point. The stale air doesn't look
insufficient
> > for breathing and the water in the tank doesn't have to look
dirty
> or
> > insufficient to the fish to breathe.
> > > I am not saying that you are doing it deliberately, but what
you
> > are claiming to practice is really cruel to the fish.
> > >
> > > joe t
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25188 From: Kevin Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: Hey guys! Looking for advice...LOL..(aren't we all?)
Melissa,

Well, I did it. My uncle took me to one of his 'fishing holes' (that
is what they call it here in the South...LOL..), and I managed to
get three small Bream, some small minnows, some real little
crawfish, a huge water bug, and a small frog (not sure what type he
is but he seemed to really enjoy my drift wood and the frozen shrimp
I fed him.)

I added them to the tank yesterday afternoon and they all seemed to
be doing well. I checked them again this morning and all was still
well, no deaths or sicklies floating around. I fed them some flake
food and the whole tank ate quite well.

Thanks to your advice I will not be adding Angels to this particular
tank. I think that the four tetras and two Chinese algae eaters will
be the only purchased fish I'll keep in this tank.

I'll put the Angels in the tank I am suppose to be getting for my b-
day at the end of January. I can foresee this turning into an
addiction. LOL..

Thanks again for your advice.

Kevin



> well I wouldnt try mixing tropical fish in with
> lake/river fish. For one the temps are compleatly
> different, Lake/river fish can do fine at room temps,
> angels prefer to be at 78 degrees or higher, we keep
> them happily at 80 degrees at work. And lake/river
> fish woud quickly take the angel fish down, their
> whispery fins look pretty tastey to other fish. Then
> there is the possible parasite thin, wild caught fish
> always run a higher chance of having "cooties" than
> well bred and maintained tropical fish. So I would
> either consider tropical, or lake/river setup, I
> wouldnt try to push the two together in one unit. You
> could try your hands at one of the setups and see how
> you like caring for fish again before setting up
> several tanks.
>
> And with that note, alot of people think angelfish are
> hard to care for, they are extreamly easy to care for,
> just remember babies need to eat several times a day.
> They are like the skinny people we all hate that can
> eat anything they want all day long and stay
> skinny....wish I could do that. I learned this from
> Angelfish Express, not that I had a diet off issue, it
> was something they just really stressed upon the
> store, to keep them nice and healthy, 10% water change
> weekly and feed 3 times a day. I think getting from
> good stock and caring for them correctly kept our
> death numbers very low compaired when we were getting
> from Fl. (Angelfish Express is from the Cleveland
> area)
>
> We live, then learn, then get depends :P
>
> :D
> ~Melissa
>
> --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@...> wrote:
>
> > Hey Melissa!
> >
> > Thanks so much for the advice!
> >
> > I am actually interested in Angels also but was
> > afraid that if I
> > added local fish they may make short disposal of an
> > Angel.
> >
> > I'll check out the links.
> >
> > My uncle works for a local wildlife reserve so I do
> > have good access
> > to wild local varieties. I have even thought about
> > adding some small
> > alligator gar fish. My poor tetras won't last long
> > if I do that
> > though.
> >
> > Thanks again for your help. My birthday is coming up
> > and I am
> > requesting a 100+ gallon tank from my parents.
> > LOL...we'll see.
> >
> > ;-)
> >
> > You guys have a great weekend!
> >
> > Kevin
> >
> > >
> > > I once had a large mouth bass tank. We went
> > fishing
> > > one summer, and somehow my dads friend talked us
> > into
> > > setting up our tank as such. We had a 300 gallon
> > lake
> > > setup. We went and got a ton of anachris and
> > heavily
> > > planted one side, leaving small open trails in the
> > > anachris forest for thm to easily swim through,
> > and a
> > > few dwarf lilly pads, as most species of lake fish
> > are
> > > a bit skittish. We used a sand substrate
> > (childrens
> > > play sand), and kept the temps fairly low as lakes
> > do
> > > not tend to get real warm, we had it set at 74
> > > degrees. And algae eaters....lol they never lasted
> > > long. We kept 3 in there for about 4 years, then
> > we
> > > set them free as they started out at 8", and when
> > > released they were 14" long. Lake and river fish
> > can
> > > get rather large, even sunfish and blue gill can
> > get
> > > over 8" if well maintained.
> > >
> > > As for pet stores, there are some good, then there
> > are
> > > some bad. Whats funny is when youwalk into a bad
> > when
> > > and they thinkthey know what they are doing! Now
> > our
> > > petcos in Toledo, their fish are horrible, but the
> > > ones down in BG have nice fish. Then with my
> > store, we
> > > have great fish, as does one of out other 3
> > locations,
> > > the other 3 have idiots there who sell terrible
> > fish.
> > > You have to take the good with the bad. And ick is
> > > stress related, so it is far better to get the
> > fish a
> > > few days after they arrive at the pet store
> > instead of
> > > the day of, this way they get time to get settled
> > in,
> > > then you can see if illness is going to peek out.
> > >
> > > I have bought and sold fish online, except the
> > people
> > > I had bought from were cichlid breeders. I know
> > the
> > > people at Angelfish Express, they have FANTASTIC
> > > angelfish. I would order 40-60 of them at a time,
> > and
> > > I would be lucky if I even lost 1 in the whole
> > > shipment. They are great people, so if you are
> > > interested in angels, I would look into them.
> > >
> >
> http://www.freshwaterangelfish.com/store.asp?pid=15388&catid=19799
> > >
> > > Rocky Mountain Discus have great fish, I
> > personally
> > > never used them, but I have a good friend who has
> > > gotten fish through them and they are
> > breathtaking.
> > > http://www.rockymountaindiscus.com/
> > >
> > > ~Melissa
> > >
> > > --- Kevin <lophophoras2002@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I am new to the group but not so new to
> > freshwater
> > > > aquariums.
> > > >
> > > > Growing up we always had one, of course my
> > mother
> > > > cared for it for
> > > > the most part though. It was always real neat to
> > > > look at and was
> > > > enjoyed by the entire family.
> > > >
> > > > I am 34 now and was recently gifted a 40 gallon
> > tank
> > > > along with hood
> > > > and lights. I made a trip to the local Petco for
> > > > filter system, air
> > > > pumps and stones, water heater. I got everything
> > set
> > > > up back in
> > > > November and added drift wood and some beautiful
> > > > stones (both large
> > > > and small) that I collected from a local lake.
> > Water
> > > > has been added
> > > > and is checked daily for balance. Everything
> > seems
> > > > fine.
> > > >
> > > > I added four tetras and two chinese algea eaters
> > a
> > > > week ago and they
> > > > are doing quite well. I did notice that one
> > tetra
> > > > looked a little
> > > > puny and did develope little white cyst. I came
> > to
> > > > the conclusion
> > > > that it was ick and immediately treated it as
> > such.
> > > > It has been four
> > > > days now and the 'sickly' tetra is doing great
> > (no
> > > > longer has the
> > > > cyst)and has rejoined it's school. While all of
> > the
> > > > treating of the
> > > > sick tetra was going on I watched all the other
> > fish
> > > > very closely
> > > > and they have all done quite well showing no
> > signs
> > > > at all of any
> > > > problem.
> > > >
> > > > I have made a few trips to Petco, which is the
> > > > closest pet store to
> > > > me. Their fish just do not look good. I have
> > even
> > > > seen some in their
> > > > tanks that have symptoms of ick (white cycst and
> > > > sickly looking)and
> > > > there have been a couple of occasions that dead
> > fish
> > > > are floating
> > > > around in their tanks. I have told the lady that
> > > > works in that
> > > > department and she treats me like I do not know
> > what
> > > > I am talking
> > > > about. Due to her attitude and the condition of
> > the
> > > > fish there I am
> > > > quite sceptical about purchasing any more fish
> > at
> > > > that location. I
> > > > live about ten minutes South of Memphis, TN so I
> > can
> > > > find other fish
> > > > stores, no problem. But I was wondering if any
> > of
> > > > the members here
> > > > have done much online purchasing? If so, could
> > you
> > > > guys point me in
> > > > the right direction online for the best
> > suppliers? A
> > > > supplier in
> > > > Mississippi or the surrounding states would be
> > > > wonderful. And of
> > > > course, any advice for the novice freshwater
> > fish
> > > > lover would be
> > > > great. I enjoy and welcome good, solid advice.
> > > >
> > > > A little about myself :
> > > >
> >
> === message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________________
_______________
> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
> http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25189 From: joe t Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not. The only point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no matter how good you think your filter system is.

I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but I'm not good with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and Steve (Szabo). They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.

This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few months back. It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I don't know what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking about changing a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure sounds like a lot of nonsense to me.

That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what replies I may get.

joe t


---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25190 From: Raymond Wetzel Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: pwc or partial water changes
Steve 01, As I do with most posts, I've been following this thread
for better than a week. Since I note your constant rebuttal to the
advice given here by knowledgeable members, I feel it unavoidable to
have to add to this discussion. I've seen though, that none of your
messages are posted on the Group Site, but merely sent as emails, so
am attaching my reply to the continuation of this thread. For the
benefit of the group and the contents of your comments, I would urge
you to post on the Group site in the future so that its not lost.

First of all, I find it incomprehensible that you feel it necessary
to reject the sound advice of the many members who have responded to
your posts with your interests in mind. Why would you want to fight
the concept of sound aquarium maintenance? You have said that you've
been in the hobby for about 5 years, so I assume (hopefully correctly
so) that you've picked up a good deal of knowledge along the way. Am
glad, as you point out, that you've maintained aquariums for this
length of time using your methods of PWC's etc. As you have pointed
out though, after this time frame you have only 1 Boesemani
Rainbowfish and 2 Black Phantom Tetras left. I do not know what
other species of fish you started off with, or how many, but while
they may have died off of old age its also quite possible they may
have sucumbed to less-than-ideal water conditions due to lack of
proper maintenance; I hope you've given that possibility some thought.

I will wholeheartedly agree with you that in many cases, you should
do what works best for you -- and what works for you may not work for
someone else. This is an old saying in this hobby, but this does not
mean that what you are presently doing, in performing 50% water
changes every three weeks is necessarily the best thing for your
fish. The generally accepted methods of maintaining fish is, as has
already been pointed out, to do a minimum of at least a 10% PWC
(partial water change) every week, increasing this to 25% or even
33%, depending upon the fish load. This is seen as "generally
acceptable" as its as close to the more ideal conditions nearest to
nature of having constantly fresh water as the fishes' environment as
can be had in the aquarium, barring having a stream running into and
out of it (or having them in a hugh lake-like volume of water). The
nearest you can duplicate nature, the better off the fish will be.
Waiting for 3 weeks before doing a PWC, and then doing a larger 50%
water change only subjects the fish to unnecessary stress. A more
uniform, weekly regimen of water changes will be more conducive to
their health, and if your fish are maintaining their health now with
larger water changes every 3 weeks, please note they will do even
better with weekly water changes. There's always room for
improvement!

There's no reason to wait until its determined by an elevation in the
undesireable water parameters to do water changes, even if your test
readings are on the low side. BTW, I don't see your reading for
ammonia (and I would hope the chlorine is 0 as stated, if you're
using proper water conditioners as needed with your tap water, as I
don't know where else it may come from). Your hardness of between
200 ppm and 300 ppm is fine for your Malawi Cichlids, which is what I
presume you meant when you said your LFS owner told you this, but is
not necessarily good for all Cichlids. For the best health of the
fish, its best to keep them supplied with the freshest water
possible. There are some contaminants, as have been previously
mentioned, which are not tested for but build up all the same, which
are always best to keep at a bare minimum.

While, as you point out, fish are adaptable and most Cichlids
possibly more so than many other fish, keep in mind that they adapt
with much more ease only when the TDS (total dissolved solids) of the
change water are near or above that to which they are presently being
maintained. Holding back on water changes for any duration of time
which may allow a build-up of TDS can be detrimental to any fish in
that the new water, if consistantly using the same source, will not
have as much TDS in it. The larger this difference in lower TDS in
the new water compared to the old water can result in such a
difference of osmotic pressure that it can rupture the gill
membranes. So why subject the fish to even any tendency of stress
from that possibility?

Your five years experience is exemplary and I'm glad to see you've
apparently picked up some useful knowledge. You obviously must be
feeding properly, or at least not overdoing it, as reflected with the
low water parameters of the nitrogen cycle that you're maintaining.
This does not mean you necessarily have a full grasp on the subject.
While I have about 52 years of practical fish experience in breeding
them (and there are others here with equal experience who have
responded to you), and another 8 years of maintaining goldfish and
guppies in my younger years, I am far from knowing everything there
is to know about fish. In my circle of hobbyist friends, some whom
are among the top aquarists in the nation, they are the first to
admit they're far from knowing it all and that there is always
something else to learn -- but we all keep an open mind.

Yes, for the most part, we advocate supporting the LFS's, as without
doing so they may well close their doors in this highly competitive
day of chain stores, which for the most part do not have the proper
knowledge to give you when its needed. While the LFS may not be up
on everything, and sometimes you have to take their advice with a
grain of salt since they are "general fish keepers" and not
specialists, you at least have them to fall back on when needed. As
for your pointing out that Cichlids are known to be messy fish, I
fail to see where that is "known." While in general, the larger the
fish get, the messier they may become, this is also due in part to
their diet. Cichlids of the same size of any other comparable (in
size) community fish are no more messier than others. Keeping the
total bioload on the low side for the size of aquarium they're
maintained in will always help.

I'd like to point out that there is the distinct risk of cross-
breeding when maintaining 2 or more Mbuna species in the same tank.
While both Acei and Yellow Labs are both considered to be on the mild
side as far as aggression goes, there will always be a dominant fish
(a male of one species or the other) in the tank, which will display
a predisposition for breeding with any female that may be so inclined.

In addition to your calcium-based rocks, I would suggest the addition
of crushed coral as part of the substrate. Dolomite would be a good
second choice, but this is not nearly as fast in dissolving as is the
former. Sea salt mixed was generally acceptable and used 35 - 40
years ago, and the trace elements along with the magnesium sulfate
will tend to harden the water, but these newer methods here outlined
are a big improvement. There is no reason to subject these Rift Lake
Cichlids to excessive amounts of sodium. The reasons used in those
days was that sea salt boosted the conductivity (read TDS - total
dissolved solids; some of which boosted hardness) along with tending
to hold the pH on the alkaline side. Adding any bottled buffers is
totally unnecessary if your tap water is even moderately alkaline;
the other elements should do the rest when boosting the buffering
capacity. Regards, Ray



--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, Donna Ransome <djransome@...>
wrote:
>
> If you can keep your Nitrates under 10ppm with a 50% water change
every 3
> weeks, more power to you! I would not recommend this to other
fishkeepers
> however.
>
>
>
> (I thought, and I think the others thought you were asking our
opinion of
> the practice.)
>
>
>
> Good luck with the cichlids!
>
>
>
> _____
>
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of steve
> Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 1:22 PM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] pwc or partial water changes
>
>
>
> you guys keep getting on me about doing these partial water changes
> but i have had aquariums now for over 5 years of some kind. Now i
> know that is probably new compared to some of you guys here but i
> have been doing my 50% water changes every 3 weeks except like i
had
> mentioned in a previous post i got lazy at a point for about 6
months
> and rarly did water changes maybe every 2 months in that 6 months
and
> it s been just fine for me so far.
> Maybe now with cichlids i will do them more often but it will be
> determined on how my h2O tests come out but i checked it again this
> morning and still (nitrate is at 0-10 range, nitrite 0,chlorine 0,
> hardness between 200-300 but was told by owner of my LFS that this
is
> good for cichlids,alk for get the test results but it was within
> tolerence, and ph was still a lil lower then i want it but it is
> about 7.8)but i don t think that will kill off a cichlids since
they
> are known to be great at adapting to water changes the calcuim
rocks
> didn t bring it up quite where i wanted it to at least not yet
> anyways but it s only been a day or 2, so as long as everything
keeps
> going this way for me i will do my 3 week 50% water change but
> however if i notice the water quality changing then i will of
course
> do it more often.
> Like i have also mentioned previously i have SW aquarium too for
> approximately 5 yrs maybe more and still have the orginal 2
clownfish
> and 2 orginal yellow tail blue damsels while i did lose a yellow
tang
> that was in the time i wasn t doing water changes but now i have a
> keyhole angel as you can see in my pics i think i have had him for
> over a year now so i must be doing something right.
> not to mention this is how i was taught by the LFS manangers said
it
> was actually bout the same unless you severely overload a tank that
> there is no problem with what i am doing. I know how much some of
you
> guys are so PRO LFS too cause i remember long time ago having this
> arguement with a couple of the long time members. Still to this day
i
> use drsfosterandsmith.com to buy lots of my stuff. Only thing i but
> from LFS is fish themself and fish food well except the other day i
> brought filter media but think i will be buying that there more
often
> too. unless i have a big order cause it is about half price but the
> shipping for just the media makes up the orginal price at the LFS.
>
> WOW did i really go off topic here anyways sorry this was so long
but
> the moral of this story is just cause everyone else does it doesnt
> mean you have to too. just find what works for you and stick with
it.
> Like i said i have had some fish for about 3-5 years and who knows
> how old they are when you get them and still alive to this day
> well thanks for advice guys with the cichlids to those who gave it
to
> me for the cichlids
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25191 From: Lenny V. aka GoldLenny Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
I agree with you Joe T.

The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of members who may
not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad advice from
somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take that info as
reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer contradicting
advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the best thing.

And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve Szabo. Much of
what I have learned came from reading his replies over the years.

Happy New Year everybody!!!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes

It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not. The only
point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no matter how good
you think your filter system is.

I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but I'm not good
with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and Steve (Szabo).
They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.

This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few months back.
It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I don't know
what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking about changing
a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure sounds like a
lot of nonsense to me.

That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what replies I may get.


joe t


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11:27 AM
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25192 From: William Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
I have only been in this hobby for a little over 55 years (yes 55
years) and the more that i get to know about fish the more that I get
to know that I don't know about them. I am a firm believer in doing
smaller but much more frequent partial water changes which will cause
a smaller change in water parameters but also will get rid of
unwanted and unhealthy things in the water. I belong to a couple of
local aquarium clubs and when some of the people come over to look at
my fish that cannot believe how fast some of my fish have grown. Also
if you do frequent water changes you can even do larger ones because
the water quality will not be that different for the tap water (minus
the chlorine and chloramine and heavy metals that you should be
treating for with a water change)


--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
<GoldLenny@...> wrote:
>
> I agree with you Joe T.
>
> The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of members
who may
> not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad advice
from
> somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take that
info as
> reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer
contradicting
> advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the
best thing.
>
> And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve Szabo.
Much of
> what I have learned came from reading his replies over the years.
>
> Happy New Year everybody!!!
>
> Lenny Vasbinder
> Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> Behalf Of joe t
> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
> To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes
>
> It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not.
The only
> point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no matter
how good
> you think your filter system is.
>
> I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but I'm
not good
> with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and Steve
(Szabo).
> They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.
>
> This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few
months back.
> It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I
don't know
> what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking about
changing
> a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure
sounds like a
> lot of nonsense to me.
>
> That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what replies I
may get.
>
>
> joe t
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date:
12/30/2007
> 11:27 AM
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25193 From: Kevin Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
William,

I usually use as small water pump to remove the water from my tank
during PWC. I figured it would cause less stress of my fish. I also
use the same water pump to slowly put the fresh water back into my
tank. Does this even make a difference? LOL..or am I being too anal
about water changes?

I try my very best not to disturb their habitat as much as posible.

Thanks!

>
> I have only been in this hobby for a little over 55 years (yes 55
> years) and the more that i get to know about fish the more that I
get
> to know that I don't know about them. I am a firm believer in
doing
> smaller but much more frequent partial water changes which will
cause
> a smaller change in water parameters but also will get rid of
> unwanted and unhealthy things in the water. I belong to a couple
of
> local aquarium clubs and when some of the people come over to look
at
> my fish that cannot believe how fast some of my fish have grown.
Also
> if you do frequent water changes you can even do larger ones
because
> the water quality will not be that different for the tap water
(minus
> the chlorine and chloramine and heavy metals that you should be
> treating for with a water change)
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I agree with you Joe T.
> >
> > The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of
members
> who may
> > not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad advice
> from
> > somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take that
> info as
> > reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer
> contradicting
> > advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the
> best thing.
> >
> > And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve
Szabo.
> Much of
> > what I have learned came from reading his replies over the
years.
> >
> > Happy New Year everybody!!!
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of joe t
> > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water
changes
> >
> > It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not.
> The only
> > point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no
matter
> how good
> > you think your filter system is.
> >
> > I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but
I'm
> not good
> > with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and
Steve
> (Szabo).
> > They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.
> >
> > This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few
> months back.
> > It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I
> don't know
> > what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking
about
> changing
> > a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure
> sounds like a
> > lot of nonsense to me.
> >
> > That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what
replies I
> may get.
> >
> >
> > joe t
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release
Date:
> 12/30/2007
> > 11:27 AM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25194 From: Farscape Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: cichlid dancing
If they star "vibrating" their tails at each other (or if one of them
does it), it's definitely a courting ritual...

If the female does it back, then she is willing to accept his advances.

This is often followed by them "slapping" their tails at each other.

-I've had a couple of pairs of O's, and the very fast vertical tail
shaking (or "vibrating") I've only seen as a part of mating ritual.

Before this there may be some aggression between them, which is nothing
to worry about unless they're going at each other too much that it tears
flesh - in which case separate them if it's too bad (maybe with a clear
divider if you can), and at the least do a partial water change, and add
either or both of 1 tsp. per gal. aquarium, sea, or Kosher salt (avoid
the rest due to anti-caking agents!) and/or Melafix.


steve wrote, On 12/30/2007 5:02 PM:
> i am guessing it is somekinda mating ritual but unsure but the 1 larger
> one i think is a male makes his body shiver or shake for just a few
> seconds. Then starts chasing what i believe is the female around and
> spreads his fins out as much as he can and then does the shiver thing
> again that is why i am thinking it is a mating thing.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25195 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
And the same goes back to you, Lenny. One of these days I may even find
the time to go and read your blogs <G>.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lenny V. aka GoldLenny
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 11:05 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes

I agree with you Joe T.

The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of members who
may
not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad advice from
somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take that info as
reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer
contradicting
advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the best
thing.

And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve Szabo. Much
of
what I have learned came from reading his replies over the years.

Happy New Year everybody!!!

Lenny Vasbinder
Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On
Behalf Of joe t
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes

It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not. The
only
point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no matter how
good
you think your filter system is.

I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but I'm not
good
with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and Steve
(Szabo).
They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.

This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few months
back.
It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I don't
know
what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking about
changing
a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure sounds
like a
lot of nonsense to me.

That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what replies I may
get.


joe t
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25196 From: H. B. Pattskyn Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: New Member - new to aquarium gardening!
I just joined and wanted to take a moment to say hi :) We're about
to purchase a new tank and I decided that instead of plastic I wanted
real plants and once I started researching... well, ok, so it's a bit
more than I'd expected it to be, but I'm very excited about the
prospect of having a tank full of live plants as well as fish. I'm
looking forward to learning more and adding aquarium gardening to my
growing list of favourite pass times!!

Thanks for having me,
Helen
(I live in Michigan, in the U.S., by the way.)
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25197 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
How the water gets changed is pretty immaterial. You do, however need to
also clean the gravel. The best time to do this task is when you are
changing water, and the best method is to use a gravel vacuum. I don't
know if this is being done by your admission of not wanting to disturb
the habitat. Detritus trapped in the gravel will eventually rot causing
various possible problems with your tank, such as anaerobic areas, the
creation of hydrogen sulfide, and the growth of fungus, etc.

You also do not mention whether or how you treat the incoming water. You
may well be in the minority with a good private supply of water, but
most of us need to remove chlorine, at least, chloramines and other
substances at the worst. There are many methods that can accomplish
these tasks, inside and outside the tank.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Kevin
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 12:26 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water changes

William,

I usually use as small water pump to remove the water from my tank
during PWC. I figured it would cause less stress of my fish. I also
use the same water pump to slowly put the fresh water back into my
tank. Does this even make a difference? LOL..or am I being too anal
about water changes?

I try my very best not to disturb their habitat as much as posible.

Thanks!

>
> I have only been in this hobby for a little over 55 years (yes 55
> years) and the more that i get to know about fish the more that I
get
> to know that I don't know about them. I am a firm believer in
doing
> smaller but much more frequent partial water changes which will
cause
> a smaller change in water parameters but also will get rid of
> unwanted and unhealthy things in the water. I belong to a couple
of
> local aquarium clubs and when some of the people come over to look
at
> my fish that cannot believe how fast some of my fish have grown.
Also
> if you do frequent water changes you can even do larger ones
because
> the water quality will not be that different for the tap water
(minus
> the chlorine and chloramine and heavy metals that you should be
> treating for with a water change)
>
>
> --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> >
> > I agree with you Joe T.
> >
> > The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of
members
> who may
> > not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad advice
> from
> > somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take that
> info as
> > reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer
> contradicting
> > advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the
> best thing.
> >
> > And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve
Szabo.
> Much of
> > what I have learned came from reading his replies over the
years.
> >
> > Happy New Year everybody!!!
> >
> > Lenny Vasbinder
> > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > Behalf Of joe t
> > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
> > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water
changes
> >
> > It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or not.
> The only
> > point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no
matter
> how good
> > you think your filter system is.
> >
> > I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but
I'm
> not good
> > with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and
Steve
> (Szabo).
> > They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.
> >
> > This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few
> months back.
> > It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I
> don't know
> > what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking
about
> changing
> > a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure
> sounds like a
> > lot of nonsense to me.
> >
> > That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what
replies I
> may get.
> >
> >
> > joe t
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release
Date:
> 12/30/2007
> > 11:27 AM
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25198 From: AquaticLife™ Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Happy New Year!
Thank you to all the Members and Moderators who have helped make this
past year a great time for learning about such a wonderful hobby.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25199 From: bmp Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: New Member - new to aquarium gardening!
Hi Helen,

Welcome to the group. I also love planted tanks so
that is what we have at our house. Now, mine would
probably never win any awards but we enjoy them. Not
only are they great to look at but knowing how
beneficial they are to the fauna in the tank helps us
feel more confident that we are maintaining a healthy
home for these aquatic creatures.

As you will find, it is a little tough to afford the
prices of the 'serious' plant lights but they work! I
hope you will have much success with your underwater
garden.

Cheers,
Beverly

--- "H. B. Pattskyn" <thylacine_yawn@...> wrote:

> I just joined and wanted to take a moment to say hi
> :) We're about
> to purchase a new tank and I decided that instead of
> plastic I wanted
> real plants and once I started researching... well,
> ok, so it's a bit
> more than I'd expected it to be, but I'm very
> excited about the
> prospect of having a tank full of live plants as
> well as fish. I'm
> looking forward to learning more and adding aquarium
> gardening to my
> growing list of favourite pass times!!
>
> Thanks for having me,
> Helen
> (I live in Michigan, in the U.S., by the way.)
>
>
>
> Please DELETE this line and EVERYTHING below it when
> replying, thanks.
> ·´¯`·.¸¸.><((((º>.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸><((((º>
> ¸.·´¯`·.¸. , .·´¯`·..><((((º>
> PLEASE, when you REPLY to a post, DELETE all TEXT
> that is NOT important to the reply & if CHANGING the
> TOPIC of the original message MODIFY the SUBJECT
> LINE -> i.e. "new subject (was re: old subject)" <-
> <º((((><.·´¯`·.¸¸.·´¯`·.¸<º((((><¸.·´¯`·.¸. ,
> .·´¯`·..<º((((><·´¯`·.¸¸.
> We Thank You in Advance for Your HELP in this
> matter.
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>


Peace, please!



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25200 From: William Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: first person who like doing water changes
I have 8 aquariums and use a Python Water Changer to do my water
changes. I Will syphon out water from the tanks in one room (I have
tanks in two different rooms right now) and when I am ready to add
new water I will add the anti-chlorine, chloramine and anti heavy
metal before I start adding new water. I will adjust the water so
that it about the same temp as the water in the tank and then just
fill up the tank with the tap water. I change about 25 to 35% each
week in my tanks.

--- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" <lophophoras2002@...>
wrote:
>
> William,
>
> I usually use as small water pump to remove the water from my tank
> during PWC. I figured it would cause less stress of my fish. I also
> use the same water pump to slowly put the fresh water back into my
> tank. Does this even make a difference? LOL..or am I being too anal
> about water changes?
>
> I try my very best not to disturb their habitat as much as posible.
>
> Thanks!
>
> >
> > I have only been in this hobby for a little over 55 years (yes 55
> > years) and the more that i get to know about fish the more that I
> get
> > to know that I don't know about them. I am a firm believer in
> doing
> > smaller but much more frequent partial water changes which will
> cause
> > a smaller change in water parameters but also will get rid of
> > unwanted and unhealthy things in the water. I belong to a couple
> of
> > local aquarium clubs and when some of the people come over to
look
> at
> > my fish that cannot believe how fast some of my fish have grown.
> Also
> > if you do frequent water changes you can even do larger ones
> because
> > the water quality will not be that different for the tap water
> (minus
> > the chlorine and chloramine and heavy metals that you should be
> > treating for with a water change)
> >
> >
> > --- In AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com, "Lenny V. aka GoldLenny"
> > <GoldLenny@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I agree with you Joe T.
> > >
> > > The problem lies in that these posts go out to thousands of
> members
> > who may
> > > not read an entire thread and if they simply read the bad
advice
> > from
> > > somebody that is posted in a reputable group, they may take
that
> > info as
> > > reputable so it's a good idea for one or more members to offer
> > contradicting
> > > advice or opinions when something is posted that may not be the
> > best thing.
> > >
> > > And thanks for mentioning me in the same sentence as Steve
> Szabo.
> > Much of
> > > what I have learned came from reading his replies over the
> years.
> > >
> > > Happy New Year everybody!!!
> > >
> > > Lenny Vasbinder
> > > Fish Blog - http://GoldLenny.blogspot.com
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com] On
> > > Behalf Of joe t
> > > Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 9:04 AM
> > > To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [AquaticLife] Re: first person who like doing water
> changes
> > >
> > > It doesn't matter to me whether my analogy was very good or
not.
> > The only
> > > point I was trying to make was that you have to do PWCs no
> matter
> > how good
> > > you think your filter system is.
> > >
> > > I been keeping fish for more years than I care to remember, but
> I'm
> > not good
> > > with the fancy words. I leave that explaining up to Lenny and
> Steve
> > (Szabo).
> > > They're good at it and I agree with almost everything they say.
> > >
> > > This go around, I think, smacks of some chap we had here a few
> > months back.
> > > It's making me wonder if he came back with a different name. I
> > don't know
> > > what this steve is trying to prove with all this nit picking
> about
> > changing
> > > a 1/2 gallon of water as opposed to a gallon, etc. but it sure
> > sounds like a
> > > lot of nonsense to me.
> > >
> > > That's all I intend to say on this subject no matter what
> replies I
> > may get.
> > >
> > >
> > > joe t
> > >
> > >
> > > No virus found in this outgoing message.
> > > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release
> Date:
> > 12/30/2007
> > > 11:27 AM
> > >
> >
>
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25201 From: Diane Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: how do i get rid of snails?
Hi. I have a fresh water tank with guppies and mollies. It is being
over run with snails. Does anyone know how to get rid of them? Thanks
Diane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25202 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: happy New Year!
Wishing all a happy and fun filled New Year before I drink too much more
of this homemade eggnog.

\\Steve//
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25203 From: Steve Szabo Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
There are a number of ways to accomplish this. First, the guppies may do
a job on the snails if they are not too well fed. Failing that, anchor
some lettuce at the bottom of the tank, or on one of the sides overnight
and remove, with snails, in the morning. You can squish them against the
glass and leave the remains for your fish. I am sure others will chime
in with hteir suggestions, as soon as they shake off the hangover from
tonight <g>.

\\Steve//


-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Diane
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 11:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how do i get rid of snails?

Hi. I have a fresh water tank with guppies and mollies. It is being
over run with snails. Does anyone know how to get rid of them? Thanks
Diane
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25204 From: deberhardt85 Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Aquarium Lighting for Cichlid Freshwater
I'm going to be purchasing new lighting for my 220gal cichlid community
tank. I am looking into triple bulb fluorescent, LED, and compact
fluorescent with actinic lighting. Any suggestions? And will actinic
provide any benefit to the health of freshwater fish or is it only for
saltwater invertibrates? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25205 From: ToPaSiO D.V. Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
How many snails do you have???

I was wondering something, since I don't know hardly anything about snails, are snails really bad to live with fishes????

Darlene!!!



Diane <diane_20007@...> wrote: Hi. I have a fresh water tank with guppies and mollies. It is being
over run with snails. Does anyone know how to get rid of them? Thanks
Diane







"I count my Blessings"



---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25206 From: diane none Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
For the most part snails arent a bad thing. I am not sure, but i think snails will eat the extra food in a tank that is left by the fish, therefor helping to keep the tank cleaner. But 1 day there was just 3 or 4 snails, now there are alot. I have a 35 gal tank, and it is getting out of control with them. I am getting tired of having to pick them out daily and i was redecorating it the other day and theres alot of eggs on everything.

"ToPaSiO D.V." <topasio998.navidad@...> wrote: How many snails do you have???

I was wondering something, since I don't know hardly anything about snails, are snails really bad to live with fishes????

Darlene!!!



Diane <diane_20007@...> wrote: Hi. I have a fresh water tank with guppies and mollies. It is being
over run with snails. Does anyone know how to get rid of them? Thanks
Diane

"I count my Blessings"


---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---------------------------------
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Group: AquaticLife Message: 25207 From: Robert Date: 12/31/2007
Subject: Re: how do i get rid of snails?
Its bad karma to kill so many snails
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Szabo
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 4:48 PM
Subject: RE: [AquaticLife] how do i get rid of snails?


There are a number of ways to accomplish this. First, the guppies may do
a job on the snails if they are not too well fed. Failing that, anchor
some lettuce at the bottom of the tank, or on one of the sides overnight
and remove, with snails, in the morning. You can squish them against the
glass and leave the remains for your fish. I am sure others will chime
in with hteir suggestions, as soon as they shake off the hangover from
tonight <g>.

\\Steve//

-----Original Message-----
From: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com [mailto:AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Diane
Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 11:40 PM
To: AquaticLife@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [AquaticLife] how do i get rid of snails?

Hi. I have a fresh water tank with guppies and mollies. It is being
over run with snails. Does anyone know how to get rid of them? Thanks
Diane





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